a tree-lined street in the 16th arrondissement. Upon entering their home, my eyes were immediately drawn to an assortment of vintage perfume bottles perched on a shelf, and I questioned Danielle about them. She proudly showed me the pieces and after expressing my utter admiration, she took me to see her "secret" trove, which she kept in her salle de bain. She opened a cabinet to reveal a collection of gilded glass bottles from the 1920s, some with trailing atomizers in black and gold from Marcel Franck, as well as some vintage apothecary bottles from Roger & Gallet. She explained that she had found many of them in Paris and elsewhere in France for quite the bargain. If this was any indication of what I'd be encountering on this trip, I couldn't wait to get started. The next morning, we began at the Clingancort market, also known as the Marché aux Puces de SaintOuen, for which The Antiques Diva & Co. serves as the official guide. This impressive market, which draws both locals and tourists, is the largest in the world. It boasts an astounding seven miles of alleyways divided into 15 districts and packed with over 2,000 vendors. The history of the Paris flea markets is a fascinating one dating back to the 1860s, when Baron Haussmann re-zoned the city, forcing the street merchants out of the city center. Undeterred, they quickly set up shop on the outskirts of Paris, where the present-day markets are based. Word spread and soon enough, amused Parisians followed, making a Sunday afternoon's entertainment out of wandering among the wares in search of treasures. The phrase "we are going to the fleas" was coined around this time, since the probability of purchasing something with an infestation was unfortunately rather high. Today, the market is so popular that more visitors go there each year than to the Eiffel Tower, and to this day it remains very much a part of French culture. In fact, many Parisians can routinely be found discussing their weekend finds while sipping their espressos at the office on a Monday morning.
We started off in a lesser-known area of the Clingancourt market, Marché de L’Entrepot, located in a long, narrow warehouse where rows of ornate gold-framed mirrors leaned against one another and dozens of crystal chandeliers were suspended overhead. I immediately spotted a stunning furniture set: a chocolate brown velvet settee with matching chairs, accented with braided fringe — all three pieces for the equivalent of a mere $175. My elation quickly turned to resignation, however, as I realized they wouldn't be coming home with me since they couldn’t fit into my suitcase. Navigating the Clingancourt market is best done with the help of a guide like Toma or Danielle, since they can steer you in the right direction, especially if you are organized and have a wish list. A skilled guide will save you not just time but also money. As we meandered though the different alleys, I noticed that both Toma and Danielle were very friendly toward the vendors and on a first-name basis with most. However, if you are going it alone, a trip to to the market can be quite daunting. Toma recommends that if you only have time to visit one district, head to Paul Bert Serpette. Not only is it the most picturesque district, with pastel façades and wisteria vines tumbling from its awnings, it also offers a well-rounded assortment of furniture, smaller items (also referred to as "smalls") and vintage fashion. Toma, who can be found criss-crossing the globe at any given moment, has an infectious enthusiasm for antiques, and her humorous commentary kept me in stitches much of the time. Her goal is simple — to make antiques fun, modern, sexy and relevant. After you've spent a little time with her, you soon come to understand that her ambitions for her brand stretch far beyond merely finding unique pieces. She wants her clients to not only find the perfect item, but also to "buy the story" and become a part of it, adding their own histories to those of the previous owners. Toma believes that when you buy an antique, you purchase
THREE In order to familiarize yourself with a certain type of piece or period, take a close look at the most expensive items in that category. This will help to train your eye so that you learn to differentiate between authentic and inauthentic pieces.
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ROSE & IV Y JOURNAL
