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knitwear


R o s a l b a

F u c c i

fashion and knitwear designer birth 26-09-1995 address via Farini, 52 20159 Milan Italy phone 3391240190 e-mail rosalba.fucci@gmail.com nationality italian languages italian, mother tongue english, B2


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born to be free p.6-33 a new easy rider p.34-45 tessuto urbano p.46-69 knit visuals p.70-77 stitches studies p.78-83

braided breeze p.84-87

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gucci horsebit

small object

9 swan lake

8 maglia, punto

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flaxibility

4 firefly Project

3 hindigo couture

2 la mia signora

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project winner of Knit-Game 2017 Loro Piana Knit-Game is a student contest born with the aim of selecting talented figures, who are asked to work in couples exploring the features and potential of some of the company’s iconic yarns. The design brief, yarns and colour palette are provided by the jury, while the contestants have to produce an inspirational mood and a knitwear textiles collection for the following season. The winners have the opportunity to spend one week at Loro Piana’s headquarters to work with their technicians and reproduce the collection of textiles, which was at first created inside the University laboratory, with industrial electronic machines. The entire collection will be in the end exhibited at Pitti Filati inside Loro Piana’s stand.

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Loro Piana Stand Pitti Filati ‘81 28/30 june 2017, Florence


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“a new easy rider” The textile collection drew inspiration from the fusion of two characters apparently very distant from one another, but that together effectively channel the mood descibed in Loro Piana’s project brief. “odes to the natural world” One is the Tuscan Buttero, an errant sheperd from central Italy that roams the countryside on his horse, far from modern life, remaining faithful to only nature. “dynamic feelings” Stimulated by an “abstract impulse” encouraging him to “resurge” and seek for change, he blends his soul with the one of the english Biker, a rebel at heart who loves to hit the road, roaming free and wild. “poetical insurrections” He is not in favour of violent insurrections but rather embraces a poetic one, mostly inspired by action painting and its capacity to combine in freedom and control, rebellion and elegance through an artisti tool. “the perfect freedom” His freedom is perfect, because it’s founded on respect. It has no boundaries or divisions, not even gender ones. And after every stop he is always ready to take off towards a new destination, because to him “every where has a why”. He was born to be free.

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stretchsilk

supercashmere

coarsehair

cashmere

euronylon

5722 8001

5432 8387

C003 8001

C282 8387

SH372 DTEX-NAT

Nm 2/82 67% SE 33% ME

5432 8213

C282 53619

Nm 2/27 100% WS

5722 8010

5432 8010

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C282 8010

Nm 2/80 100% WS

5722 60580

P052 53679

C003 53896

C282 52360

C003 50130

C282 848N

Nm 2/11 100% WS

C282 53649


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the perfect freedom The first group of textiles was created using always the same jacquard pattern, inspired by the concept of “lyrical camouflage”. A jacquard card can be seen as a “cage”, as a constraint that causes the needles of the machine to be placed in a forced manner. These samples show how, simply thanks to the use of different yarns and different processing techniques, the same card can instead lead to very different results: this represents the perfect freedom, perfect because entrusted to everyone’s creativity.


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nylon/wool jacquard with visible floating yarns 2x euronylon 6.6 cashmere 2/27 2x C282 53619 linear Brother gauge 5

16| wool bicolor jacquard with inverted colors cashmere 2/27 4x C282 8010 cashmere 2/27 1x C282 52360 coarsehair 2/11 1x C003 53896 linear Brother gauge 5

nylon/wool jacquard with visible floating yarns attached to leather 2x euronylon 6.6 coarsehair 2/11 1x C003 53896 linear Brother gauge 5


silk/wool jacquard with needle-punched denim cashmere 2/27 3x C282 8010 stretchsilk 2/82 1x 5722 60580 linear Brother gauge 5

wool/nylon jacquard coarsehair 2/11 C003 50130 cashmere 2/27 C282 8387 C282 848N C282 53649 supercash 2/80 P052 53679 5432 8387 2x euronylon 6.6 linear Brother gauge 5

woven wool jacquard front and back coarsehair 2/11 1x C003 8001 cashmere 2/27 1x C282 8387 1x C282 848N supercash 2/80 2x P052 53679 linear Brother gauge 5

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rebel touch This series of textiles was created using some jacquard cards that had a basic pattern on them. However, each time the carriage crossed the machine, we made a manual intervention to “mistake” the motif of the card. This brought some of the needles to the sides outside the fixed scheme, and made them knit with a simple stocking stitch. In doing so, we created some patches on the fabric: this extremely interesting effect shows that each one of us is free, in compliance with the rules of machine operation, to intervene on it by creating “conscious mistakes”, and being able to create new effects every time.


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wool melange jacquard with tridimensional off-work effects supercash 2/80 2x P052 53679 1x 5432 8213 cashmere 2/27 2x C282 53649 1x C282 8010 2x C52 854 linear Brother gauge 5

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silk/wool jacquard coarsehair 2/11 1x C003 8001 stretchsilk 2/82 1x C282 848N linear Brother gauge 5

wool jacquard laddered and needle-punched on denim coarsehair 2/11 2x C003 8001 1x C003 53896 cashmere 2/27 2x C282 52854 2x C282 848N 2x C282 53619 2x C282 800 linear Brother gauge 5


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Project presentation Loro Piana Headquarters april 2017, Quarona


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dynamic feelings The main element of the third group of textiles are floating yarns. They are untied from the predefined mesh scheme, but they remain firmly inserted inside the knitted fabric. They become the symbol of our character, who is free from the oppressive constraints of society but at the same time is not an outcast, because he clearly understands the great values ​​ of respect for nature and for others.


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wool melange flat rib with ottoman rows casmhere 2/27 1x C282 8010 1x C282 848N 1x C282 53649 linear Brother gauge 5

24| silk tubulars divided and padded with scrap wool coarsehair 2/11 1x C003 5013 stretchsilk 2/82 1x 5722 60580 mixed scrap yarns linear Brother gauge 5

wool melange ribs with floating purl stitches coarsehair 2/11 1x C003 8001 cashmere 2/27 1x C282 8010 supercash 2/80 1x 5432 8213 linear Brother gauge 5


silk tubulars padded with scrap wool and neoprene stretchsilk 2/82 1x 5722 60580 mixed scrap yarns linear Brother gauge 5

wool stocking stitch with elongated stitches and leather fur stitch cashmere 2/27 1x C282 8010 1x C282 53619 1x C282 52854 supercash 2/80 1x 5432 8213 linear Brother gauge 5

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emergence, resurgence The fourth group of textiles responds to the need to “emerge, resurge” of the protagonist of our story, working on three-dimensional effects. Thanks to the use of the ottoman, the flat rib and the off-work technique, it was possible to create embossed effects that recall on one hand the actionpainting artists, and on the other the landscapes of the Tuscan Maremma. Thanks to the bicolor effect, the vanisè technique reaffirms the concept of complementary dualism that is fundamental within the collection.


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wool striped flat ribs with vanisè effect cashmere 2/27 1x C282 5361 1x C282 52854 coarsehair 2/11 2x C00353896 linear Brother gauge 5

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wool embossing effect and vanisè flat rib cashmere 2/27 2x C282 52854 2x C282 53649 linear Brother gauge 5

wool flat rib with high tension difference cashmere 2/27 2x C282 52854 linear Brother gauge 5


wool flat rib woven with a leather yarn cashmere 2/27 1x C282 52360 1x C282 8010 linear Brother gauge 5

silk interrupted ottoman on wool background cashmere 2/27 1x C282 848N C282 53649 coarsehair 2/11 1x C003 50130 stretchsilk 2/82 1x 5722 60580 linear Brother gauge 5

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wild stroll In the last group, the research paths are pushed towards the theme of the evolution of the floating yarns, which are detached from the rigid pattern of the mesh and become free wires that extend outwards. Thanks to the use of the off-work technique, fur stitches and embroidery, it was possible to create effects that recall the paint that drips from Pollock’s paintings, returning that unique feeling of free color that moves in all directions, apparently without following any scheme, but actually wisely guided by the artist’s creative mind.


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wool striped stocking stitch with tridimensional off-work effects coarsehair 2/11 2x C003 8001 1x C003 53896 cashmere 2/27 1x C282 52854 1x C282 52360 1x C282 53619 1x C282 53649 linear Brother gauge 5

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wool stocking stitch with fur stitches patches and embroidery coarsehair 2/11 2x C003 8001 1x C003 53896 1x C003 50130 cashmere 2/27 2x C282 52854 2x C282 52360 2x C282 53619 1x C282 800 linear Brother gauge 5

wool striped stocking stitch with tridimensional off-work effects coarsehair 2/11 2x C003 8001 1x C003 53896 cashmere 2/27 2x C282 52854 1x C282 52360 2x C282 53619 2x C282 53649 linear Brother gauge 5


video link

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the collection development This garments collection follows the textiles one. One of the key concepts lies again in the material dualism, obtained through the use of needlepunching and the juxtaposition between yarns different by color, composition and title. The floating yarns and the “free� ones also express a fundamental evolution: the former want to be free, but they never really succeed. They untie from the predefined mesh scheme, but they remain firmly inserted inside the fabric. The latter instead extend outwards, free to travel far from the cloth. These threads are the metaphor of the personal redemption of our protagonist, who frees himself from all the unnecessary and oppressive rules of society, remaining faithful to his steady moral principles.


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body total lenght top front height top back height skirt height chest width skirt bottom shoulders width

103 22 26 72 44 77 30

sleeves armhole width

24 neck

neck width front depth back depth

20 8 4 ribs

skirt rib height buttoning width buttons diameter

1,5 4 1,5

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stocking stitch

t=4 10 cm=35 needles, 48 rows cashmere 2/27 (3 yarns) C282.8387 100% WS

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jacquard “rebel touch”

t=3 10 cm=36 needles, 38 rows coarsehair 2/11 C003.8001 100% WS stretchsilk 2/82 5722.8001 67% SE 33% ME

paint drops

t=4 100% WS cashmere 2/27 (2 yarns) C282.53649//C282.52854//C282.53619


armhole

shoulder

3x2x6 2x4x6

4x2x3

neck 6x2x1 2x2x8 2x4x4 2x4x2

decrease 2x14x3

button holes

78 needles

10 rows

120 tot rows

288 rows

8 needles

decrease 2x14x15

tubular ribs 10 rows t=3 104 needles

front

70 needles

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sweater total lenght waist chest shoulders width armhole width muscle cuff width sleeve lenght neck width front depth back depth bottom rib height neck height cuff heighr

50 39 46 39 23 16 11 57 20 4 2 5 10 24

total lenght waist cfr hip cfr legh max width waistband height needle-punch height zip height sewing

104 72 92 40 5 25 18 1

pants

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neck

neck

shoulder

17x2x1 2x2x4 2x4x16

11x2x1 2x2x5

6x2x4 10x2x1

shoulder 3x2x10

armhole 2x2x5 2x4x4

decrease 2x4x10 2x6x5 2x4x8 16x2x1

increase 2x10x9

front

3x3 ribs 24 rows

back

increase 1x11x6

140 needles 50 rows

3x3 ribs 124 rows

neck sleeve 42|

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zip

inseam

inseam

waistbands h=5

knee height

knee height 70 needles

grainline

grainline

front

back

100 rows

knitted

tubular 10 rows t=5


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models: Xenia Obuhova, Bianca Burini, Barbara Garbelli workgroup: Rosalba Fucci, Martina Micheli location: Val d’Astino (Bergamo) Italy photography: Arianna Genghini make-up: Sofia Micheli


flat rib

t=3 10 cm=35 needles, 48 rows cashmere 2/27 (2 yarns) C282.52854 100% WS supercash 2/52 (2 yarns) 5432.8213//5432.8010

flat rib and ottoman

t=3 10 cm=35 needles, 48 rows cashmere 2/27 (2 yarns) C282.52854 100% WS supercash 2/52 (2 yarns) 5432.8213//5432.8010 |45

3x3 odd rib

t=3 10 cm=35 needles, 48 rows cashmere 2/27 (2 yarns) C282.52854 100% WS supercash 2/52 (2 yarns) 5432.8213//5432.8010

stocking stitch

laddered and needle-punched on denim t=7 10 cm=35 needles, 52 rows cashmere 2/27 (2 yarns) C282.8010 100% WS


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a Missoni collection In this fashion collection knitwear becomes the tool to narrate the urban American lifestyle, taking Art Decó as reference. Style and comfort come together in the knitted garments, whose contrasts in lines and volumes are suggested by Art Decó. Through their jacquard patterns, inspired by New York’s urban fabric, all the outfits also reflect the American natural tendency to connection: beetween cities, beetween people, beetween ideas. Tall silhouettes, overlapping geometries and structured shapes are all mixed by the seemingly casual, but in fact very well-studied Missoni colour blends.

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“Yarns are clothes stretched to dry, They are electric wires, They are streets of a city seen from above, They are cobwebs on the walls, They are the small or big labyrinths of every corner of our existence.“ G. M. Conti, Design della Maglieria, Ed. Lupetti

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body tot lenght chest waist bottom shoulders width sleeves

58 35 38 43 32

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sleeve lenght sleeve width muscle

60 24 15

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neck width front depth back depth neck height

18 2,5 1,5 9,5

neck

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(cm) body

tot lenght chest waist bottom shoulder width

100 40 42 52 30

sleeves g

armhole width

32

j k l

neck width front depth back depth

22 24 1,5

neck


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lookbook outfit 1


34 rows

neck 12x2x1 3x2x4

color scheme

neck 12x2x1 2x2x6 2x4x5

shoulder 8x2x5

62 rows

armhole 2x2x6 2x6x3

decrease 2x48x5

41

0 front

41

41

0 back

41

decrease 2x2x8 2x6x8 2x8x2 2x4x7

sleeve

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increase 2x14x7

neck 14x2x1 4x2x5

shoulder 4x2x3

neck 2x6x3 2x8x6 2x9x12

80 rows

armhole 2x2x7

armhole 2x2x6 2x4x7

56 rows

decrease 1x15x6

12 rows

0

front

43

decrease 1x46x4

22 rows

0

back

41

54 rows


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body

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(cm) body

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tot lenght chest waist bottom shoulders width

84 60 60 38 60

a b c d e

tot lenght chest waist bottom shoulders width

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sleeve lengh sleeve width wrist width muscle

60 20 10 18

f g h i

sleeve lenght sleeve width wrist width muscle

j neck width k front depth l back depth

22 4 1,5

j neck width l back depth

m neck height n wrist/bottom height

8 10

sleeves

neck

ribs

f

sleeves

neck

ribs

m neck height n wrist height o bottom rib height

146 60 60 56 50 62 24 10 18 22 1,5 8 10 10


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lookbook outfit 2


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4 3

11

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6 8

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front back

1 1a 2 2a 3 4 5

33x35 cm

6 7 8

30x35 cm 37,5x35 cm 48x35 cm

9

40x33,5 cm

10 11

19,5x23,5 cm 19,5x23,5 cm

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sleeve

32x17 cm 37x20 cm 40x21,5 cm

a b c d

48,5x21 cm 53x28,5 cm 32x31 cm

168 needles

78

168 needles

148 rows

rows

144 needles

92

144 needles

100 rows

rows

20 23 45

front

back

front color scheme

37

back

140

55 rows

52 needles

52 needles

120

sleeve 90

55 45 rows

60 needles

70 needles

70 needles

60 needles


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tot lenght chest waist bottom shoulders width

92 44 40 52 34

sleeves g armhole width

32

neck j k l o

neck width front depth back depth bottom rib

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(cm) body

body a b c d e

d

24 2 3 9,5

a tot lenght d bottom j neck width

112 80 16

sleeves f g h i

sleeve lenght wrist width sleeve width height from bottom

22 18 18 52

ribs m neck height n waist height o bottom height

2,5 2,5 2,5


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lookbook outfit 3


6 rows

neck 2x8x7 2x8x5 2x8x6

armhole 2x2x4 2x6x5

front

TOT. 152

shoulder 6x2x1

48 rows

40 rows

1/1 ribs back to work 1/1 ribs 1x1x26 4x2x14

58 rows

0

69 TOT. 152 6 rows 8 rows

back

neck 12x2x3

off-work 1x1x2 4x2x14

jacquard

42 rows

38 rows

58 rows

4/1 ribs 0

69

69

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0

skirt

154 rows

68 rows

sleeve loops = off work needles

64 rows

50

0

sleeve

50

306 rows

68 rows

154 rows

88

0

scarf

88

TOT.750


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video link


F r a n k f u r t s t y l e a w a r d

One of the outfits from the Missoni project was the winner of the 3rd place of Frankfurt Style Award contest, for the category #dating, under the leading theme ‘Modern Reality’. The project was submitted under the name Carlotta Bellissimo for the whole university gorup (Arman Avetikyan, Carlotta Bellissimo, Beatrice casalini, Rosalba Fucci, Olimpia Macrì and Giorgia Medici).


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models: Meghane de Crook Alessandro Marchetto photography: Zihao Fan appearance: Cristiano Rizzo location: Atomic Bar, Milano workgroup: Arman Avetikyan Carlotta Bellissimo Beatrice Casalini Rosalba Fucci Olimpia MacrĂŹ Giorgia Medici


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illustrations for “Tessuto Urbano” Representing knitwear in a drawing isn’t always easy: all the shadows and lights created on the fabric by the stitches are in fact quite unique. With the help of Kaledo Style and Kaledo Knit, however, it is possible to give justice to the drawn garments, reproducing a real “knitted” effect. For the realization of the fashion figures, the outline was first drawn by hand, then it was vectorised using Kaledo Style, and completed with the knitted textiles reproduced with the help of Kaledo Knit.


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left: irregular striped stocking stitch (cotton, linen, wool, cashmere) top right: regular striped stocking stitch (cotton, wool, viscose) bottom right: melange stocking stitch (cotton, wool) machine: linear brother gauge 5


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left and top right: jacquard with degradè background (cotton, linen, wool, PA) bottom right: melange stocking stitch (wool, viscose) machine: linear brother gauge 5


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left: bicolor striped melange jacquard (viscose, wool) top right: bicolor melange jacquard (cotton, wool, viscose) bottom right: irregular striped stocking stitch (cotton, wool) machine: linear brother gauge 5


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some hand knitting samples Hand knitting is a very useful tool to understand how knitting really works: the direct contact with the movement of the needles, wich are directly attached to human hands, is fundamental to get the logic of every stitch. This way, once the basic stitches are learnt, creativity is finally free to wonder, and innovation really starts to make its appearance.

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left page: fur stitch cables trinity stitch honeycomb stitch right page: peacock tail stitch chess stitch star rib mesh stitch


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a hand knitted sweater The inspiration for this project comes from the dream vision of a magical and quiet landscape, where sky and sea meet and seem to merge into one single entity: from here a cropped hand knitted sweater is born, characterized by a high neck, a body knitted using the fisherman’s rib stitch, and whose sleeves definitely become the most elaborate element, thanks to the “waving cables� stitch that is repeated throughout their length.

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42 cm

30 cm

18 cm

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24 cm

15 cm

14 cm

25 cm

50 cm 2x2 ribbing

“waving cables”

fisherman’s rib

Merino Wool

Nm 1740

needles n. 6,9


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photography: Giorgia Medici styling, editing: Rosalba Fucci


Rosalba Fucci via Farini, 52 20159 Milan Italy 3391240190 rosalba.fucci@gmail.com


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