Fall Winter 2018-2019
past + present
ON THE RUNWAY the show
PAST + PRESENT LOEWE dates back to 1846; where it started as a cooperative of leather artisans at a workshop in the heart of Madrid, Spain. German artisan, Enrique Loewe Roessberg, consolidated the workshop under his surname in 1872. LOEWE expanded within its native country first, but soon ventured to other parts of Europe and even parts of Asia. The late 1800s and early 1900s allowed LOEWE to establish itself as a luxury brand. Women’s ready-to-wear was introduced in the seventies alongside LOEWE’s signature logo, created by Vicente Vela. The LVMH group acquired LOEWE in 1996. LOEWE’s aesthetic encompasses traditional Spanish influence, while ensuring quality craftsmanship and technical excellence. The brand’s classic and overall formal style has been revamped by current creative director, Jonathan Anderson. Anderson has introduced a youthful side to the clothes, still upholding LOEWE’s emphasis on precision and technique. The rebrand involved a collaboration with M/M (Paris), an art and design partnership consisting of Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag. The three excavated LOEWE’s identity and it being one of the oldest luxury houses, began to look at time through a different lens.
“Rather than looking at it through the parameters of heritage and tradition, we decided to translate the idea of time into something cultural.” LOEWE’s identity stems from a multicultural perspective being a Spanish fashion house whose founder was German, the idea behind the rebrand connects the brands origins to modern times.
THE SHOW LOEWEâ€™s fall winter 2018-2019 ready-towear show questioned the facade of the introvert. Influenced by Neo-Dada artist, Tetsumi Kudo, and architect-designer Edward William Godwin, Jonathan Anderson mixes an industrial atmosphere with organic designs. Simplicity ruled the show space with the primary color being white. Rectangular structures made of black metal bars filled the area; creating a somewhat multi-dimensional feel. On the seats and within the structures, classic books such as Don Quixote, Dracula, and Heart of Darkness adorned the room. The clothes embrace LOEWE tradition as leather is used to accentuate and bring attention to detail. A subtle palette composed of mainly whites, tans, and blacks allowed for the few blues, teals, and pinks to make an impact. Vertical, straight silhouettes showcased the dynamism in movement of the dresses. Coats were not spared in this collection-- about 15 total! Details of leather, shearling, optical jacquard and flares for added volume gave life to all the coats. Anderson combined ease and technicality in a harmonious way.
REVIEW Jonathan Anderson has brought a new side to LOEWE and with every collection he manages to reinvent traditions of the fashion house. Whether it be with leather goods or the way leather is used in the clothes, the designs which were once not embodied by youth, are now embraced by a larger audience. Anderson knows how to put together a show and the cast of models, so diverse, enhances the feel of the show to a higher level. The simplicity of the show space furthers the idea of questioning the facade of an introvert by allowing oneâ€™s thoughts to be expressed, rather than suppressed. Overall, the collection had many beautiful key pieces and some very risky designs, like the mid-riff cut out dress. Anderson excels at invoking LOEWEâ€™s heritage to fit a contemporary lens.
“Classicism is always there… sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today.” - Jonathan Anderson
SOURCES (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.mmparis.com/ ’Every single aspect had to be changed.’ (2017, January 11). Retrieved from http://system-magazine.com/mm-paris-jonathan-anderson-loewe/ Bertoli, R. (2016, January 18). Anatomy of a rebrand: We dissect Loewe’s new identity, designed by M/M (Paris). Retrieved from https://www.wallpaper.com/design/anatomy-of-a-rebrand-we-dissect-loewes-new-identity-designed-by-mm-paris JW Anderson. (2018, May 10). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ JW_Anderson LOEWE Official Online Store. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.loewe.com/ usa/en/loewearchive_about LOEWE Official Online Store. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.loewe.com/ usa/en/runway/fw18-runway/fw18-backstage LOEWE Official Online Store. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.loewe.com/ usa/en/runway/fw18-runway Mower, S. (2018, March 12). Loewe Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-towear/loewe The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com. (n.d.). Loewe - Fashion Brand | Brands | The FMD. Retrieved from http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/brands/ loewe/
Raquel Delgado FASM 215 Professor Knaus May 16, 2018