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THE MAGAZINE FOR THE SUPER RICH

OCHAY ELITE

magazine

6TH EDITION


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CONTENTS

OCHAY ELITE

magazine

Welcome to our 6th edition!

This issue is packed with exclusive interviews with Lady Carnarvon, the De Mallet Morgans, Tim Belson, Philip Donovan and luxury swimwear and lingerie designer Nichole de Carle. A tribute to

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the enigmatic Zaha Hadid with some of her ubiquitous biomorph architectural masterpieces from around the world. I hope you also enjoy our selection of His & Hers Classic watches, a look at the new Lamborghini and interview with ‘The Mentor’ - David CM Carter!

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Kevin Rochay Executive Editor Kevin Rochay Executive Editor

Nicholas Baker Editor in Chief

Ellora Harper Communications Director

Ashley Jordan Media Director

Louise Baxter Circulation Director

Richard Sussex Creative Director

Aaron Hewit Client Director

Oliver Pears Art Director

John Wilson Client Manager

Susan Chandler Executive Journalist

Jade Edwards Editorial Reporter

Emma Ward Editorial Reporter

Laura Jones Editorial Reporter

Natasha Rogers Editorial Reporter

Contributors: Andre de Trichateau Christopher Jordan Stephen Edwards A special ‘Thank you’ goes to all those who have supported Rochay Elite Magazine, especially: Lady Carnarvon, Andre de Trichateau, Juliet Jarvis, Nichole de Carle, Olga Scott, Rene Byrd, Tim Belson, Phil Donovan, Tommy de Mallet Morgan, Lulu de Mallet Morgan, Zaha Hadid, Davide Giordano, Laura de Castiglioni, Hardeep Chohan, Viviane Borges, Jessica Laneley, Gaelle Moatty, Wahyu Iskandar and Maree Perkins Front Cover image courtesy of Wahyu Iskandar www.beraplan.com/highclerecastle-in-snow-hd-wallpaper.

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ROCHAY ELITE ROCHAY GROUP HOLDINGS 123 Pall Mall, London SW1Y 5EA United Kingdom (tel): +44 (0) 203 416 3624 (fax): +44 (0) 203 416 3635 web site: www.rochayelite.com Registered in England & Wales no. 05595818

38 Editorial: editorial@rochay.com Advertising: ads@rochay.com Subscriptions: subscribe@rochay.com Membership: members@rochay.com

©2014 Rochay Group Holdings Limited, All Rights Reserved. Every attempt has been made to ensure the accuracy of published content. Rochay Elite Ltd and Rochay Group Ltd does not endorse any advertisements or opinions expressed. Rochay Elite Magazine is a registered trademark of Rochay Group Ltd. No part of Rochay Elite Magazine can be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without written permission of Rochay Elite Ltd and Rochay Group Ltd.


OCHAY ELITE

society


OCHAY ELITE

society


Image courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Timeless Elegance By Ashley Jordan

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Vacheron Constantin launches the world’s thinnest minute repeater - the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. At just 3.90mm and 8.09mm thick respectively. Rather than merely building on heritage, Vacheron Constantin nurtures an authentic and enduring love story repeater on a pocket-watch in 1810 before combining striking mechanisms with major complications throughout the following decades. In each case they produced exceptional timepieces that were among the most complex of their era including timepieces that made history like the one developed for King Fouad of Egypt in 1929 and then his son in 1935. In 1941, Vacheron Constantin launched its shape of a minute repeater housed within an ultra-thin once again transcended the realms of possibility by

presenting the Calibre 1755, a minute repeater measuring just 3.28 mm thick – truly unprecedented! Today, Vacheron Constantin celebrates this emotionally charged complication with an all-new calibre inspired by its illustrious predecessors: the 1731, thus named in tribute to the birth of the brand founder, Jean-Marc Vacheron. While the new Calibre 1731 is barely thicker than its predecessor from 1993 – 3.90mm compared with 3.28 mm – due to its impressive 65-hour power reserve, it is nonetheless the thinnest on the market today, having successfully overcome slimmed down to extremes. It’s design is inspired by an ultra-thin model created in 1955 to mark the Vacheron Constantin bicentenary and then revived in 2004 to give life to the Patrimony Contemporaine. Since then, it’s extreme slenderness among many remarkable features

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The Ballon Blanc de Cartier watch unites the Maison’s jewellery and watchmaking secrets, strikes a pose and declares itself a jewellery watch: precious, feminine and delicate, with a touch of mischief when the time is right. Imbued with weightlessness, it has made design codes its own and created a new face for itself, just as one might try out a different look. The case still retains its enchanting pebble shape, like a precious powder blued-steel sword-shaped hands, the watch radiates Ballon de Cartier signature style.Yet the little detour made by the Roman numerals and rail-track minute addition of a single assertive diamond. The bracelet,

Image courtesy of Cartier

smooth beads, has the allure of a rivière.

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For decades, the Calatrava – the prototype of the classic with dust covers over the case back – has ranked among the most iconic creations of Patek Philippe. Uniting the key characteristics of this watch family, the new Calatrava Ref. 5227 now features a display back protected with a separate dust cover. The special twist: The entire hinge is on the inside of the cover, making it invisible even to the connoisseur. A close look at the new Calatrava Ref. 5227 from all angles with a loupe reveals that this watch can only be a Patek Philippe. The family-owned enterprise enjoys total creative freedom in designing new models, which always involves certain imponderables as well. This is especially true Patek Philippe Seal. The Stern family, whose tradition is intimately intertwined with the Calatrava collection, has

Ref. 96, was launched in the same year. Since then, Patek Philippe repeatedly demonstrated that even a paragon of design like the Calatrava can be changed, optimized, and perfected. It is in the nature of consummately designed cases that they conceal the profound creative thrust, the extreme technical sophistication and the artisanal talent involved in their making. The classic round 39-mm case of the Calatrava Ref. 5227, a typical representative of its family with a concave bezel, gently curved lugs and slender thin watch can have a sapphire-crystal case back plus a ingenuity. 81 years after the debut of the Calatrava, Patek Philippe collection as well as the creativity of the manufacture in leveraging its traditions and heritage. The new Ref. 5227 enhances the endearingly elegant Calatrava style with the

Image courtesy of Patek Philippe

18K yellow, white, or rose (5N) gold and worn on a hand-

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matching gold prong buckle. The strap is shiny black for the white-gold model, shiny chocolate brown for the yellow-gold version, and shiny dark brown for the model in rose gold.


A diamond company extraordinaire, Graff is involved in every stage of the jewellery making process - from the sourcing of each rough stone, right through to the cutting, polishing and Throughout its rich history, Graff is said to have handled more diamonds of notable rarity and beauty than any other jeweller. Today, after more than luxury jewellery industry Graff continues to push the boundaries of ever-greater innovation and excellence. depicted artistically throughout many different cultures over the course of history. One of the earliest references dates back to the Egyptian era when structures, used in art and incorporated into intricate jewellery pieces. into Graff Diamonds’ jewellery as part Collection. Now, perfectly fusing the timelessness of a diamond with Swiss watchmaking expertise is Graff’s latest horological evolution, the Graff A beautifully feminine arrangement of four pear shape diamonds trace gently resting upon the 26mm watch face fully set with diamonds and with 41 diamonds around the white gold case Set on a simple yet elegant black

positioned at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock respectively. Limited to 300 pieces, it is also available in vibrant gemstone versions and emeralds and all diamond version.

Image courtesy of Graff Diamonds

watch is available in two striking

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Image courtesy of Breguet


The innovative spirit of the Breguet brand has contributed to a number of inventions that have improved time than 100 patents in the last 10 years, especially concerning improved timekeeping and striking mechanisms. But with its patent of November 7, 2010 for a magnetic pivot, the brand has set another milestone in watchmaking history by harnessing magnetism to the service of precision and shows that the company has reached its objectives and set a new level in the search for perfection.

time-keeping performance of the balance and spring. Breguet’s wheel, all in specially prepared silicon that reaches the high achievement when one considers that the regulating capacity of the best chronometers is between 300 and 400 microwatts. reserve of 60 hours thanks not only to the energy stored in its without doubt the use of magnetic pivots. It is likely that the impact of this invention will not be felt for a few years yet. With the magnetic pivot, Breguet not only controls the negative effects of magnetism in a watch, but also uses magnetic force to improve the pivoting, rotation and stability of the balance staff. Breguet’s watchmakers have designed a stable system using two endstones incorporating powerful micro-magnets (approx. 1.3 teslas) that keep the balance staff centred and self-adjusting. One of the magnets is stronger than the other within the balance-staff induces a magnetic attraction that keeps the end of the pivot in contact with the endstone. unaffected by the different positions of the watch and the conditions at each pivot remain unchanged. If a shock knocks the balance staff sideways, the system acts like a pare-chute to return it to its position, except that magnetic forces result is a balance that is insensitive to gravity, more stable and resistant to shocks. These innovations bring the reference 7727’s average rate to -1/+3 seconds a day, well within the COSC chronometer standard of -4/+6 seconds a day. More importantly, the difference in rate between the six positions has been brought down to -2/+4 seconds a day (maximum wind). The dial is engine-turned in six patterns: “Geneva waves” in the centre, a hobnail pattern for the small seconds, sunrays on the tenth-of-a-second dial and chevrons for the powerreserve indicator. The hours chapter is cross-hatched while a barleycorn pattern decorates the outer edge. No fewer than six patents protect these technical achievements, which represent the excellence of Breguet’s watchmaking. 19 15


It was in 1993 that Caroline Scheufele created one of the Chopard icons, the Happy Sport watch. Repeatedly interpreted over the years in occasionally humorous and consistently elegant ways, it has lived under various highly evocative identities: Happy Beach, La Vie en Rose, Happy Spirit, Mystery Pink… diamonds moving freely just a few centimetres new Happy Sport Medium Automatic. The famous moving diamonds – one of the most fascinating jewellery innovations in recent decades – adds an unprecedented mechanical dimension to their entrancing natural charm. Moving diamonds meet a mechanical movement: elegant, sophisticated and entirely loyal to the spirit of the original Happy Spirit. The new Happy

Image courtesy of Chopard

silver-toned dial, a tribute to the decorative traditions of classical watchmaking and a perfect backdrop against which to highlight the seven moving diamonds. On the back, a sapphire crystal provides a chance to admire its mechanical self-winding movement adorned with a straight Côtes de Genève motif also known as Geneva stripes. Its 36 mm-diameter stainless steel case is water-resistant to 30 metres and

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Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4 Roadster

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El sol es el mejor torero The sun is the best bullfighter

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On October 15th, 1993 at the Plaza del Toros de Zaragoza, in the Aragon region of Northern Spain and before over 10,000 spectators, matador Emilio Muñoz fought and slew a 1,118 pound bull from the breeding stables of the sons of Don Celestino Cuadri Vides. The bull had been remarkably courageous and noble in it’s battle with the torero and thus earned the title “Trofeo de la Peña La Madroñera”. The bull had a number on it’s hide – 32. It also had a name – AVENTADOR. The new €300K Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4 Roadster greets the world with a phenomenal set of performance goes on to reach a top speed of 350 km/h. These numbers super sports car that is without parallel in the competitive focal point. Power comes courtesy of the high-revving, highdisplacement and 515 kW (700 hp). The new CDS cylinder deactivation system deactivates one of the cylinder banks to make the engine run as an inline six and the innovative Stop & Start system enables an exceptionally fast start process that sets the V12 engine running again in a virtually imperceptible 180 milliseconds. This all makes the stunning decreases the average 16.0 litres/100 km.

fuel

consumption

by

7%

to

The most important new development in the Roadster is the

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dedicated locking system in the trunk for secure storage of the hard top during the journey. In a short space of time, the new Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4 Roadster is ready to be enjoyed in all its open-air splendor. Even the electric rear the impressive sound experience generated by the mighty twelve-cylinder.

“[The matador, Cagancho] moves the cape spread full as the pulling jib of a yacht before the bull’s muzzle so slowly that the being one of impermanent, his veronicas minutes that

the major arts because it is in the arrogant slowness of becomes, for the seeming they endure, permanent.”

Death in the Afternoon, Ernest Hemingway, 1932

Beginning with a length of 4.78 metres, the car’s spectacular and a width of 2.26 metres (including exterior mirrors). It Aventador. The lines are evocative of artistic knife work – radical and precise to a degree that is unparalleled in automotive design. The powerfully taut surfaces of the


display

the

expertise

and

experience

of

Automobili

The interior of the Aventador Roadster combines the craftsmanship in the best Italian tradition with state-of-the-art technology and luxurious appointments. The interior is dominated by the new-generation cockpit – as in modern

shifting pattern for track conditions and also incorporates Thrust Mode (Launch Control) – the automated function for maximum acceleration from a standstill. The shift feel in the Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4 Roadster is highly emotional, with exceptionally short shift times of just 50 milliseconds being the norm. Permanent all-wheel drive delivers the extreme power of the V12 power unit to the road with the utmost reliability. An electronically controlled clutch in the drivetrain distributes driving force between front and rear. In the space of just wheels can vary continuously from 0% to 60% of the total

The twelve-cylinder is the crowning glory of engine design

together with the ESP facilitate an even more dynamic

model by Ferruccio Lamborghini, the 350 GT, left the factory in 1964 with what was at the time a highly innovative twelvecylinder. 3.5 litres of displacement and 320 hp were the vital statistics back then, and they formed the basis for ongoing increase and development over the decades that followed. Miura, Espada, Countach, Diablo and, most recently,

component, offering extreme stiffness and thus excellent handling precision, as well as the very highest levels of passive safety – with minimal weight. It is connected at the

the halls of Sant’Agata. All were and are driven by V12 engines, and all have long attained the status of automotive legend. switched in line with personal preference – three manual settings (Strada, Sport, Corsa) and two automatic strategies (Strada Auto and Sport Auto). The Strada mode is intended for particularly comfort-oriented shifting, while the Sport mode has a more dynamic setting with higher shifting points and shorter shift times. The Corsa mode offers the optimum

on which the suspension, engine and transmission are mounted. The suspension pushrod springs and dampers are inspired by Formula 1 and perfectly tuned for a highperformance, road-going sports car. In this arrangement, the structure. They are positioned horizontally, beneath the windshield at the front and close to the engine at the rear. Pushrods and relay levers transmit the forces from the wheel mounts to the spring/damper elements. Together with the ceramic brake system, this lightweight running gear forms yet concept. By Aaron Hewit

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Images courtesy of Lamborghini


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“Great nose... Full bodied... Terrific intensity...�

Images courtesy of Nichole de Carle London

Wine Advocate on 1995 Haut Carles Fronsac, Bordeaux

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Nichole de Carle Exclusive interview by Nicholas Baker


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ar more has come from the De Carle family seat in Fronsac, France than an exceptional Bordeaux. Pierre de Ronsard, the lauded Prince of Poets of 1500s France, once wrote of Lancelot De Carle, then Bishop of Reiz, in a poem titled Les Daimons, To Lancelot Carle, :

The artistic medium has changed, but the tenacious aspiration for excellence, structure and colour seems invited to view Nichole’s new ‘Marine’ collection at a Ferretti Superyacht event and was struck by her distinct architectural

“Carle, de quie l’esprit recherche l’Univers,

[Carle, whose mind seeks to understand the Universe,]

Pour gage d’amitié je te donne ces verse,

[To you I give these lines as a token of friendship,] [So that your Bordeaux, your shores and your river Garonne]

Flottant contre ses bords ta louange resonne,

[Lapping against it’s banks, may resound with your praise,]

Et ton nom par la France autant puisse voler as this poem]

the deserved adulation of clients such as Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Alexandra Burke, Nicole Scherzinger and Cheryl Cole, to name but a few. With experience within the lionized walls of luxury design houses such as Alexander McQueen in London and Donna Karan in New York, it is no wonder Nichole De Carle’s brand has grown exponentially in the last few years. I wanted to discover from where this creative predisposition derived... What drives you to succeed?

Lancelot de Carle served as secretary to Antoine de Castelnau, French ambassador to the court of Henry VIII and was very much in Francis I’s favour after his epic 1,318 line poetic missive upon the life and trial of Anne Boleyn, Queen Consort of Henry VIII: “...And hereby, Monseigneur, has accomplished a great part of a certain prophecy which is believed to be true, because nothing notable has happened which it has not foretold. Other great things yet are predicted of which the people are assured. If I see them take place I will let you know, for never were such news. People say it is the year of marvels.” Though Lancelot wrote this in 1536, it was not until June 1537, after Lancelot had returned to France, that Henry VIII learned of the poem’s existence. It elicited this response from King Henry whom wrote to Stephen Gardiner, Francis I had allowed such a book to be printed. He wrote, “...Gardiner is to tell the French king and the Great Master how much Henry is grieved that it should have been written in the house of his ambassador in England, and now there [in France] imprinted. Is to urge that all copies may be taken in and suppressed, leaving the punishment of the devisers to their discretion. Understands that the author was one Carle, attendant upon the French ambassador...” to have been ‘a founder of modern political philosophy in France’, married Lancelot’s only daughter, Marguerite De Carle. beautiful is a recurring theme in the De Carle family. It is carried through the centuries to include esteemed individuals such as the naturalist, James de Carle Sowerby, who was the founder of the Royal Botanic Society in 1839. His father and brothers were renown botanists and artists in their own right and their work displays immense detail in natural structure and colour. The vivacious Nichole De Carle continues this unabated.

Finding your true passion and holding onto it can become a drive in itself. Having always been inspired by the almost magical in its perfection world of couture fashion, just striving to be a part of it has been a strong motivation for me. Also, my entrepreneurial spirit and drive to succeed has certainly derived from my mother – always strong, independent and driven, she has set a great example to follow. How would you describe your dominant creative style and where does it come from? The dominant structured style in my designs has been inspired by masterpieces of architecture – the grandeur and precision of such creations always remind me of my days spent designing for Alexander McQueen. I also have been told that the creative style given to my design work woman, which is very important to me and my design ethos. What is your core inspiration for each collection? collections each season, all of which carry the strong signature style of structured, authentically contoured works of art. However, each collection is inspired by something complexity of linear symmetry and basket-weave design of the Chrysler building, while the Classics collection modelled Softer in style, more feminine Opal collection expresses my through the vast halls of the Louvre Museum – hence the range. What attracts your clients to your bespoke service? skill and knowledge, and an immense attention to detail. I believe that my clients continue to return to the brand due to the high level of service and skill applied to each

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this product journey is what I love to discover with the the idea of having a couture dress made for her – the allure of having a personal design made-to-measure only for you is just fascinating. And with the bespoke item being lingerie, it is even more personal – a Nichole de Carle London signature design, tailored to the client’s wishes for Why do you feel your work is so popular?

in terms of the structured style and functionality – I am not aware of many brands that design lingerie which is worn to brand loyalty is installed into the customers and private clients. We will continue to practice sustainable methods of development and production here in London. Our British, ethical approach is what distinguishes Nichole de Carle London amongst it’s competitors. Can you describe your creative process for a new collection? There is a detailed and strategic approach to this process me. While the majority would resort to rest, relaxation or meditation to spark their creativity, it is totally the opposite for me – I get inspired whilst out exploring the city rush amongst the complexity of the high-rise buildings in the major capitals of the world, my favourite state of play being both New York city and London town. The body shape and line detail featured within the designs and use of fabric is inspired by the fashion scenes and couture catwalks. The design needs to be in line (and even slightly ahead) with what’s out there on the couture and ready-to-wear catwalk. So there is a lot of trend forecasting events and trade shows to visit in advance of the new season. In terms of the actual design process, this will always happen when I am completely isolated, usually with really loud music! It is a distraction, I need to be focused during this time. what effect did it have on you? This would probably be when I started experimenting with Mum’s wardrobe, I was very young and playing dress-up with a catwalk was my thing! The items of my particular interest included her shoes and bras – that must have been the accessories designer in me oozing through at a very early age! How do your clients describe your lingerie and how does it make them feel? A feedback that I hear often is that wearing my designs transforms the mood of the client, and makes her feel

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as empowering women is something I strongly believe in. I also have found that clients really appreciate the fact that my lingerie can be a great styling tool to make even the features, which makes every piece a true investment. When not designing, how do you relax? Interestingly, I don’t feel the need to relax very often at all… I think that when you work in something you truly love doing, the job satisfaction factor generates an incredible amount of energy! Otherwise, if I feel like I need to take my mind off of things, nothing does it better for me than spending time with the people in my life of whom I love the most. Running is also a good distraction, and from time to time I am trying to get away on the yoga retreat, but unfortunately this doesn’t usually work for me as I am a very active person. What is/was the most challenging project for you? I would probably not be able to pinpoint a design project which proved to be the greatest challenge, however, I remember that to create a bespoke piece for Nichole Scherzinger we were only given two days! This included days! This was rather challenging but also enjoyable as the outcome was very successful. Also, as the Director of my company, it was very important for me to build a good motivated, passionate about the company and really understand the product and brand values. But once this is achieved, working with the support of a great team is something every Director can be really proud of. What are you currently working on? I never stop working on developing my company – this goes alongside all the other responsibilities of a creative always something more that can be done. Particularly at the moment, as I am also in the process of developing Nichole de Carle Marine, a luxury swim, beach and resortwear label. This is also the time when all new attention – so I would call it a relatively busy time! One thing I have learnt through the journey of building these companies is that, busy people make time! What are your future plans for NDCL? Brand building is something which takes time, and although a lot has been achieved already, we continue to explore some very exciting opportunities to further expand our celebrity following and secure their support as Brand Ambassadors. Also, positioning the brand in some of the most renowned luxury stores worldwide, as focusing on to achieve in hopefully not so far future.


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The Loupe Hole...

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in civilian life and I was sent an Army resettlement bulletin say I got the job and I haven’t looked back since. What challenges did you face Leaving the Army into civilian life was a real challenge. One minute you are in a combat situation, responsible for the lives of 30 experienced soldiers and the next you are working out how to close a deal with a jeweller to buy some precious gems. The Army does teach you to be determined and stay cool and that is what I try to do. What would you say your success formula has been Hard work and a belief that if you look after your customers ingenuity as there is great opportunity to be made out of repackaging any product.

After the recession hit home in 2008, investors sought to future safe growth. I dare say those who entered early are of the recession in the UK, gold prices were at $800 per ounce. As of November 2013 they were at $1230. In fact, Raw Gold has risen 240% since 2007 (LBMA). Also from 2008 diamonds have jumped up 30% for 1 carat and more than doubled in price over the last 10 years. Family silver has climbed 500% over the same period. Most people do not realise the true value of the jewellery in their safes or jewellery boxes. Thus leaving them dangerously exposed should something happen to them and you need to make a claim. Better still, if you could have them valued before any such event were to take place and be much more likely to get back your investment.

Who inspires you? There are a number of amazing individuals around the world who inspire and drive me forward - My elder brother Roger would be at the top of that list. He was paralysed in a road accident in 1992 and ended up in a wheelchair but kept himself going to raise hundreds of thousands of pounds for others who suffered a similar fate. He continued to help, counsel and encourage them right up to the time he passed away, two years ago. What do you do to relax away from business Well that’s an easy one - I love spending time with my wife and family sailing. When you are sailing, you have so many things to think about that you become totally absorbed in what you are doing, to the exclusion of everything else. What is your favourite destination Through my sport in my early years I had the opportunity to

This is where experience and understanding come into play.

destination is tough. But I would have to go with the Paxos Islands, just south of Corfu in Greece. Simply stunning and a great place to sail!

Ltd, have been providing this discrete and bespoke service for more than 25 years.

What is your forecast for this sector?

A history on the British Olympic Fencing Team for twelve

stone will continue to rise due to worldwide demand and their increasing rarity. This is a real concern to many dealers.

career in the Diamond industry. Tim now has extensive experience and understanding of the jewellery claims process and has used his knowledge and skills of the insurance industry by providing post loss valuations including arranging bespoke replacement jewellery to his UHNW clients. Core to his business is pre-loss valuations, a bespoke service he offers to those woefully under insured.

What drives you to succeed? I think this need to be successful was instilled in me from an early age by my parents. When I know something to be the right course of action then I pursue it against all odds, as I know it will be a success and I cannot see any other path. Why did you choose the luxury jewellery sector Well truthfully, it chose me - In 1981 having been an Army

discerning audience. What is your current focus Developing, building and exposing the Prestige Valuation now widely acclaimed as the Industry leader and the only demystifying the whole jewellery valuation process. We will also be launching an App in the next few weeks which will show customers how to place a current value on their own jewellery items. What are your plans for the future Continue to improve and build on our current software known as VALIDATOR and to make our Prestige Valuation service more accessible. By Ashley Jordan

by Nicholas Baker

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Tenureship of a Countess

Images courtesy of Highclere Castle

Exclusive interview by Nicholas Baker and Susan Chandler

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S

grounds designed by Capability Brown, stands the Jacobean styled mansion of Highclere Castle. Highclere was built upon medieval foundations and then substantially remodeled from 1842 in beautiful honeyed Bathstone by Sir Charles Barry after Castle has been home to the Carnarvon family since 1679, now Abbey. On 18 February 1999 George Reginald Oliver Molyneux Herbert, known affectionately as Geordie and Godson of Queen Elizabeth II, married Fiona Jane Mary Aitken, eldest daughter of Ronnie Aitken and Frances Farmer. Fiona’s father was son of Brigadier W. H. H. Aitken. After Geordie’s father passed away two years later, they became ensconced at Highclere Castle, becoming the 8th Earl and Countess of Carnarvon, (Lord and Lady Canarvon). Lady Carnarvon previously studied English and German at the University of St Andrews before becoming an accountant and a senior auditor at Coopers & Lybrand. From 1995 to 2004, Lady Carnarvon launched her own fashion label called Azur, creating “timeless collections of clothes which looked and felt wonderful to wear”, such as scarves and frock coats which were then distributed by a team of 360 agents and retail outlets around America. Lady Carnarvon became a published writer in 2011 after immersing herself in previously undiscovered correspondence Lady Almina and the Real Downton Abbey: The Lost Legacy of Highclere Castle centred around her husband’s great-grandmother, Almina Victoria Maria Alexandra Wombwell. Published in 2011, it made the New York Times best-seller list. Lady Almina was described as “a veritable pocket Venus” and was the rumored illegitimate daughter of Marie Wombwell and Alfred Charles Freiherr de Rothschild. She became the Countess of Highclere Castle in 1895, after marrying George Edward Stanhope Molyneux Herbert, 5th Earl of Carnarvon. Queen Victoria was the Godmother of George’s sister, Evelyn. Lord Carnarvon was an enthusiastic amateur Egyptologist whom, with Howard Carter to assist on his excavations, eventually discovered Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922. Almina, however turned Highclere into a convalescent home for patients returning from the WWI trenches. Lady Catherine, the Earl, and the Real Downton Abbey, was Published October 29th 2013 by Broadway Books. It reveals the story of Lady Almina’s son, Henry George Alfred Marius Victor Francis Herbert, Lord Porchester or ‘Porchey’, who married the beautiful American heiress, Anne Catherine Tredick Wendell in 1922. On 5 April 1923, aged just 56, Henry’s father died in Cairo making Henry the 6th Earl of Carnarvon. We learn of Lady Catherine’s life during the roaring 20s and the approach of WWII , of how she survived stress, anxiety, alcoholism and a series of breakdowns, giving testament to her fortitude and resilience, even in light of her husband’s philandering. When war broke out Highclere once again assisted in the war efforts, transforming into an American airbase for several hundred soldiers and homing This support for the Armed Forces prevails today as the current Lady Carnarvon prepares to host ‘Heroes at Highclere’ on 3rd August 2014 on the 100th Anniversary of WWI, honouring those

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I caught up with Lady Fiona during her very busy preparations for Christmas… What drives you to succeed? I think the death of our parents (I am one of 6 girls) has focused me into living and doing the best I can each day. I also feel that the “means” are so important, how you get somewhere, to help others, and whilst I may have a general direction, it is not the end that matters. I don’t and won’t get to the end at Highclere, there is always another room, another plumbing system, another folly to repair, more trees to replace, another box of archive material… What was your motivation behind your books? Almina (Lady Almina and the Real Downton abbey) was such a remarkable person. She made such a contribution to other people’s lives. I also wanted to explore the tragedies of the First World War through the letters and lives of the real men who were nursed here and yet keep the main battles in the background to keep the thread of history. I have had many wonderful letters, many from men actually, and that has been moving. With “Lady Catherine”, I wanted to explore what happened next, again tell a story and go through the Second World War. The twenties and early thirties were such glamorous years here and then the contrast with the rationing and stoicism of the Second World War still turns round in my mind. What is life like around the TV series? It is very busy with no rest in the diary. Which writers inspire you? I have always loved Shakespeare, but also the poet George Herbert, Jane Austen, Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead revisited, Edith Wharton. I don’t think I could choose between any of them. But I have long lists – I think of Chaucer, William Faulkner, Dickens, TS Eliot…. What has been your most challenging time and how did you overcome it? Dealing with grief, reconciling one’s life to loss. Reading, writing and friends all helped. Can you describe your creative process? I start reading around and through the period - biographies, novels, text books and diaries. Then I start reading the letters and notes and see who knew the characters. This is when I begin to hear their “voices” a little. I am not ‘them’ however and do not want to be presumptuous. I read a tear-spattered letter, as in Catherine’s story, and I began to write central scenes so that, by the end, I have created a rhythm through the factual elements. I read some of the letters of Almina’s time and felt so distressed and moved - I wanted to do them justice. What are you most passionate about and why? I am trying to tell a story. I never have enough time and simply want to share my passion. Out of my work I adore my son, husband and beloved sisters. We laugh a lot. What is your current focus? My next book - different but anecdotal about “Food and Entertaining at Highclere Castle”. I also have various large building projects coming towards an end and am sketching out other smaller ones for the next 2 years. The revenue side of the Castle business is never far from my thoughts either. What do you do to relax away from work? I read, ride, cycle with the dogs, I play tennis every Monday morning to start the week with some girlfriends, do yoga etc.

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BREAKING THROUGH: DAVID CM CARTER by Charlotte Metcalf

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"I mentor only ten highly successful, carefully chosen clients at any one time. They include CEOs, business leaders and entrepreneurs, plus celebrities, philanthropists and a small handful of other interesting successful ‘movers, shakers and shapers’ who want to be and become the very best versions of themselves."

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Images courtesy of John Stoddart


O

CM Carter’s ambition as over-reaching and arrogant. Carter is on a bold mission to help create a tier of global leadership capable of inspiring positive change. He believes that the world lacks motivational leaders because they have not been guided or inspired to be the very best version of themselves. His credo is that he can do this by teaching the difference between being successful and making a difference. Such is his faith in his track record that he styles himself The Mentor - rather than merely a mentor - because he is certain he is the one person who can arm good leaders with the tools they need to become great. ‘Leadership is in crisis,’ he insists. ‘Recent surveys have shown while 75% of CEO’s say they would have a mentor or coach if a McKinsey report issued this January found that nearly a third of US companies admit that they have failed to exploit international business opportunities fully because they lack enough leaders with the right capabilities. Carter mentors entrepreneurs and CEO’s across a range of industries and countries, from mining to fashion, from LA, New York and London to Denmark, Moscow and Johannesburg. He has mentored national leaders, philanthropists, artists and celebrities. All tend to be in transition to the very top tier of their professions and such is the intensity of his approach that he handpicks a maximum of ten clients at a time.

possessions that betray his tastes or interests. ‘I keep my life simple,’ he explains. ‘I am the only mentor to offer three-day retreats and I conduct them here. My house is a sanctuary where my clients can hang up their holster, switch off their phone and put their feet up. They need a serene environment in which we can unload the jigsaw pieces of their life and start putting them back together again in a more meaningful way.’ He seems affable as he chats about being Chairman of the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra’s Development Board and delivers a barista- style cappuccino from a gleaming kitchen. I was expecting a sleekly sinister practitioner of Dark Arts but Carter is casually dressed in a baggy T-shirt and his hair is teases him. He laughs readily and talks in everyday English about what he does, telling me how to make a goals poster and explaining a few simple exercises that can kick-start everyone on the path towards self-improvement and breakthrough. The basis of his success seems to be that he straddles the business and personal aspects of his clients’ lives, as able to sort out their balance sheet as their emotional crisis. He is disarmingly open about his own failures – he is three marriages down and at the beginning of a new relationship: ‘I’ve had sublime successes, a few failures, and one or two near disasters,

including a narrowly avoided personal bankruptcy,’ he says. £250,000 in debt, Carter founded Merryck & Co. that, over the next 14 years, became the world’s leading CEO mentoring ‘There’s nothing about being a CEO that I don’t understand so I speak my clients’ language,’ says Carter. ‘But it’s more than just business that has contributed to my arsenal of skills.’ 7. ‘Raising two children, almost single-handedly, taught me the gift of unconditional love and loyalty. This, along with near bankruptcy, taught me how to remain calm and centred when hurricanes of anxiety and uncertainty swirled all around me. In the ten years it took me to claw my way back to zero, I learned the value of perseverance. The wisdom I’ve accumulated has life … no matter what.’ than a conduit to his inner self, it’s impossible not to like him for his openness about his complicated personal life and for the fact that his approach seems grounded in everyday experience. He puts much of his success down to this openness and he has made a point of being generous, approachable and trustworthy. ‘The Chatham Rule applies here at all times,’ he says. ‘My clients know that nothing they say to me will be repeated. Likewise, I often choose to reveal things about myself that may shed light on their predicaments and I expect them to respect my privacy as much as I respect theirs.’ Grinning cheerfully, he gives me a copy of his book ‘Breakthrough’, a surprisingly easy and compelling read with lots of simple exercises (write down 100 things that make you happy, for example). It’s sold over 10,000 copies already in the UK, America and in eleven other territories. He’s also working on his own television channel that will launch later this year by broadcasting twenty hours of interviews, conducted by him, entitled ‘Attitude Determines Altitude’. Carter has already signed up 20 impressive CEO’s including Greg Dyke, Chairman of the FA, Dianne Thomson, CEO of The Lottery and Mike Wilson CBE, Founder and Life President of St. James’s Place Wealth Management. Without a shadow of self-doubt, it does not occur to him that he could fail. Carter points out that his method is as likely to help a rock-star as a business leader - it is fundamentally democratic. He even offers to mentor me so I can better understand the process, doesn’t mean you’re incapable of achieving a breakthrough in your own life.’ to complete and I send one to 30 people l have worked with.

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but with also with Joan Shafer in Hawaii via Skype. Joan trains consultants in values-based assessments and strength-based methodologies around the world. She has analysed the however much a client may balk at being told certain truths, he has the back-up of Joan’s assessments. Being able to grasp the reality of how others see you is crucial, particularly for CEO’s in charge of thousands of employees, if breakthrough is to be achieved. Next I meet Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioner Joy Le Fevre, who adds an extra holistic dimension to Carter’s approach. She diagnoses my ‘elemental type’ as a tree (trees have roots and so a tendency to be stuck in ruts) and gives me acupuncture to ‘unblock’ me. This is really to soften me up so I have a more receptive attitude towards the truths and advice that will follow. The acupuncture certainly makes me feel tired and vulnerable and I now face a bracing session with Carter during which he grills me about my inability to monetize my skills. With ruthless clarity, he dismisses various career options that I am considering until I am left with no option other than to confront With that sorted, Day Two tackles the patterns in my behaviour that prevent me from achieving my full potential on every level. I have an early morning Skype session with Sydney-based Jennifer Moalem, to whom Carter refers as his ‘secret weapon’. I am told only that she is a specialist in ‘transformational change’ and ‘energy psychology’. energy’. I start to feel resentful and irritable when she repeatedly says I am not ‘resonating’. Then she suddenly asks something I have not told anyone for 30 years. Over the next two hours Jennifer penetrates my defenses and, during a ‘creative visualization’, we both weep. At the end of it I am apparently resonating fully, though I feel nauseous and faint. I also feel different, as if an enormous weight has been lifted from my shoulders. ‘You’ve had a breakthrough,’ grins Carter. did for me because I am not his target clientele. So I turned to his list of mentees. His website boasts an impressive list of American Platinum, the largest producer of platinum group metals in the world with more than 60,000 employees, Alexander Nikolaev, Managing Director of Valartis Group, one of Moscow’s leading property companies and Danish IT entrepreneur, Jacob Tackmann Thomsen, founder and CEO of global bank payment company INPAY. Anirudh Misra, founder and CEO of international mining and trading group IMR, said: ‘If you want an easy ride, David is not for you. He makes you stretch out of any standard set of conventional thinking. He is

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said. He has a world-class commercial mind and this gives me from a coach.’ I talked to Shalini Khemka, founder of E2Exchange that helps entrepreneurs create high growth companies and access ‘What I learnt in that one day could have taken many months to realize,’ she told me. ‘David got straight to the heart of things and helped me clarify and articulate my objectives. David’s seriously expensive compared with other mentors but worth the money.’ I also talked to Tony Manwaring, CEO of business think tank, Tomorrows Company, who had found Jennifer’s session as mysteriously effective as I had. ‘Much of our work with City leaders and others focuses on the business value created or lost because of ‘soft’ factors - values, cultures and behaviours. Jennifer’s genius is to enable the personal transformation, which unlocks this soft value. She recognises the power of the patterns that limit us and the new ones that will enable us to realise more fully who we are and what we can be. And brilliantly she supports people to make the change. How she does this is hard to describe. There’s wisdom, empathy and to experience.’ Tony introduced Carter to Paul Feeney, CEO of Old Mutual red shoes!) but very business savvy. He cares about people and business and its purpose. His network is phenomenal and he is generous in sharing everything he has access to help me succeed.’ Though some of what happens on his retreats is beyond rational explanation, David’s method is not so much about the Dark Art of Spin as about a combination of hard-hitting straight talk and focused hand-holding. Leadership can be a lonely business and David is, above all, supportive, which is why his clients return to him again and again for ‘top-up’ mentoring sessions. Life coaching, life skills and mentoring are now big business games

to

improve

leadership

skills.

It’s

a

wishy-washy

surprise that Carter remains head and shoulders above his competitors. He offers the ultimate package, offering his tough-talking, savvy business acumen alongside those ‘softer’ skills of Jennifer, Joan and Joy. What I had originally and then break through to the zenith of their game. When I people who don’t want to make a difference to the world. I teach the difference between being successful and being


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The Countess of Carnarvon's latest book, "Lady Catherine and the Real Downton Abbey" is now published by Hodder & Stoughton in the UK and by Random House in the USA.

Available at Amazon www.amazon.co.uk www.amazon.com


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Paragons of Prime...

Images courtesy of Lisa Gill Photography

An exclusive interview with the de Mallet Morgans by Nicholas Baker

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It is not often in one’s life that an opportunity arises to meet an individual who has left such a laudable and formidable mark on the property market, but have the grace and humility to do so without the need for approbation or a panegyric. From the moment I met both Tommy and Lulu de Mallet Morgan at a luxury jewellery event in London’s Regent Street, I was struck by their ebullience and decorous manner, tempered with self-effacing deference. Their philanthropic desires only enhanced the persona.

six months we agreed a phenomenal amount of sales only to be followed by another property collapse in 1989. As the market

disciplined prominent agency with Country Houses, New Homes, Developments and rental teams. My clients included Captains of Industry, Russian oligarchs, Indian property moguls, wealthy Middle Eastern purchasers, opera singers and Pop Stars, Formula I The de Mallet Morgan name retreats through history consuming racing drivers, bankers, politicians and wealthy friends. I was then pages of Burke’s Peerage at a prodigious rate, creating an aristocratic trail any prince would be proud of. Kings, Dukes and broadsheets as a ‘Super-Agent’. So overall, I would say these stages Viscounts to Earls and Barons, their name traverses almost a of my career were very exciting, a lot of hard work and a lot of millennium of venerable nobility. fun. I was fortunate to be working alongside very experienced and successful individuals who helped shape my thinking and I learned Holding senior positions in the Prime and Super-Prime property a tremendous amount about making the most of every opportunity. sectors with households names such as Harrods, Savills, Chestertons and now their own international business, I came What motivates you to succeed to learn that there is not much about prime property values and locations that Tommy de Mallet Morgan does not know... Lulu and I have a breadth and depth of experience that I think synergises well with our clientele. We are motivated by the What attracted you to the super prime market opportunity to use the resource of the knowledge we have gained to provide the very best service possible for our clients. We enjoy Our ancestry has been in large country houses and estates, on dealing with very inspirational people from all walks of life, from both sides of the family. Lulu and I spent our early childhood in those managing international investment portfolios to individuals the Far East. I was born in Malaysia, at Kuala Terengganu, where purchasing a beautiful home in the country. We recognise there I enjoyed a privileged upbringing with the Sultans of Terengganu are limitless opportunities in business, particularly when you are and Pahang and the lifestyle of the early 50s. Lulu was brought dealing in the super-prime market. up in Chennai (Madras) where her father represented India in the International Chamber of Commerce, was MD and then Chairman In addition we are only too well aware that to manage risk in of Binny’s, part of the Inchcape Group, and Commodore of the Royal Madras Yacht Club. It’s in our heritage. investment portfolio which could include residential, commercial, hotels, investment or developments, at home or abroad. We How did you begin your career in the property world enjoy advising our clients, helping them to increase their wealth across all these areas. At 17, my father introduced me to Sir Richard Burbridge, MD of What was your most memorable deal broad grounding in the sale of Knightsbridge’s best town houses and apartments, rentals, management and Country Estates. My penchant for smart suits began at Harrods. estate on the Surrey, Hampshire borders, with lakes surrounding At that time, Chesterton & Sons were in their heyday under Sir Oliver Chesterton, and I was asked to join them. It was a hugely enjoyable experience selling the best houses and apartments north of Hyde Park and in Mayfair and many of my professional contacts in London emanated from here. I then worked in their

ex-chairmen of two of the World’s largest banks competing for its’ purchase, each determined to win. I acted for the successful party and we secured the property after extremely tough negotiations. It was a considerable triumph. Sir Michael trusted my judgement and tenacity and knew that I was thoroughly conversant with the market which enabled us to work well together. He also knew that team of commercial and residential investments which entailed the property was indeed a ‘rare jewel’ and would not only make valuing portfolios of properties, not only in Town but throughout a lovely home to be proud of, but also be a sound investment. the UK for large property companies. In around 1974, I had my What inspires you today was an exodus of Indians from Uganda whom I began to do a lot of business with. They became large property investors in I am inspired by the variety of opportunity, properties and people Kensington and Earls Court with a particular interest in hotels. I we deal with. One day we could be involved with prime hotels, or had an approach from one of these clients to buy the Dorchester. looking for a royal residence close to London or a lateral apartment in Mayfair, alternatively selling a historic country house or seeking a purchaser for a development project in the UK or the Bahamas, or an and I was asked by a retiring partner of Hamptons to join them. I ex-royal residence in the South of France. Vive la difference! Most worked in London for their national Country House team and was Guildford, which became the leading agency in the area, covering appreciate attention to detail and craftsmanship in properties. It is the most valuable properties in Surrey (including the St. Georges particularly rewarding to have been engaged to sell and purchase Hill and Wentworth areas), West Sussex and Hampshire. properties that my forebears used to own, whether in London or

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in the country as I have historical information to add which builds memories for me. . the story. I am also inspired by my wife who I thoroughly enjoy working with. She carries such an important blend of experience, Lulu, were you featured in Country Life knowledge, perception and high standards. Yes, our families at the time were invited by Country Life to What inspires you, Lulu announce our engagement. I still have the photo from the Frontispiece in my dressing room at home in the country. glorious windows with incredible light and the wealth of fascinating stories that come with the history of a property. How do you feel about the current economic UK climate We work hard, and we play hard. The economic recovery in Great Britain appears to be on the mend. What was your most challenging time in business and how did We know that London has fared well in spite of the recession, you overcome it buoyed up by the huge and continuing international investment. At the same time the number of millionaires and billionaires are Making the break from corporate life to running my own business. growing at a pace that has not been seen before, in part due to the rise of the wealth of the ‘emerging nations’. Indeed, according to a I took the advice from many friends and individuals who encouraged me to harness my years of contacts and experience, become independent, and enjoy the thrill of my own destiny. I can good news and creates huge opportunities not only in the Capital, honestly say it has been worth the initial risk, the hard work and but in the rest of the UK. There is of course concern in the rising all that running your own business entails. I can already look back debt levels of many nations. My observation however is that this and say it has been a very rewarding time and something I should may further spur investment in prime and super-prime property as have done years ago. I really do feel that now is the most exciting it is increasingly valued as a solid asset class with a dependable period of my life. income yield. I overcame the challenge to becoming an independent property What are your future plans and I experienced grief, illness and loss. This brought me to We and our team recognise there is far more scope for de Mallet a place in my life where I took a really good look at what truly Morgan and are developing an exclusive variety of services with attention. It is of the upmost importance to us for this standard that I came to we are now intentionally including as a part of the to be maintained as we continue to expand and diversify. We are currently launching a high end Styling Department, “Opulance by de Mallet Morgan”. In addition we are encouragement from my family, friends and business contacts intentionally building strategic relationships with international who continued to believe in me. organisations such as Rochay Elite. Our desire is to work with others who have similar values and objectives, where What are your main interests outside of business honesty, integrity, experience, providing the very best advice the day. home with family and friends. As a mother myself, also dear to my heart are the orphanages in India, the country that I grew What are your predictions in your sector up in. I view it as such a privilege to have been able to help, even in small ways, over the years. We are optimistic, even in the current unsettled economic Global climate, values in London have confounded many and continue to climb. The impact of the international investor has outstripped our passion for the evolution of the town or country house, embracing home-grown buyers. Ten years ago the Russian oligarchs hit the everything from architectural detail, the history, trees, plants and headlines, the Middle Eastern buyers have been constant and this gardens. It’s a beautiful world we live in. has been followed by the Europeans. We are now embracing another wave from the Far East. The overseas buyers are charmed Tommy, where is your favourite location of building stock and green open spaces. They perceive London’s I was born in Malaysia so I naturally incline to the Orient. My property values as inexpensive and the Chinese in particular are culture and the exotic cuisine of that part of the world, for me and long term, Super Prime Property will continue to thrive in its home. I also enjoy the South of France, I adore the colour of London and in all Prime property areas worldwide. the water around St. Jean Cap Farrat. Lulu, where is your favourite location Grand Cayman, without a doubt! We have such special memories of holidays with the family there. Such a beautiful Island. A close second would be Whistler. I used to ski there during my time working in Canada. Again, it’s a place that holds very special

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“It is needful that you be strong, bold and without fear. If you behave in this way you will surely have victory.” Robert I (Robert the Bruce), June 1314, Ancestor


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Do you know your True Value...?


Into Interiors An Exclusive Interview with Phil Donovan

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T

he art of interior design has long been a specialist craft for the very few. The clever combination of furniture, colour, light and texture offers an emotive bond to a room ranging Rococo, Neo-Renaissance to minimalist, austere and sterile and even sound. So often ignored and yet an integral and disregarded. Thankfully there are craftsmen like Phil Donovan, of The London Floor Company, who has spent thirty years honing his creative skills in every medium - natural wood, stone, ceramic, plaster, linoleum, polymers or an axminster - the options are endless, but have the ability to transform your space into something that is wholly a part of you. We caught up with Phil in London... specialists? Flooring is a vital component of any interior design. It’s been around for thousands of years and is an integral component of any good interior which makes it a high should provide a focal point and lead you when entering the room – the eye is drawn naturally across and into the of the room, and the texture should determine the activity would be instantly obvious and destroy any cohesion of underestimated. What is most challenging when creating ambiance through colours, materials and texture? the room – it is important to take into account the age and style of house or home and any outstanding or remarkable

lend themselves to more formal spaces whilst wood is more be blended so as not to be overpowering but at the same time create a strong focal point, adding to the overall visual impact of the entire interior design.

What are you most passionate about? surfaces transforming an ordinary house into a wonderful area that encompasses everything a home should be, with fabulous eye and radiate the persona of the owners with great choice and types and putting them together to create different and fascinating spaces are to be used and must engage with the rest of the structure without overpowering it. What was the most unusual project you have worked on? I have worked on many different projects and all are unusual in some aspect– the project for Heathrow was interesting as stores like Samsonite, Burberry, Harrods pursue a very luxurious experience for the shopper which is inherently more complicated than perhaps a single client in Knightsbridge. I’ve also worked with well known Radio Stations and TV channels, but perhaps hotels and residential are the most gratifying. What do you do to relax away from business? is sailing as there is nothing better than cruising in the warm Mediterranean under sail. You can take it easy or increase the sail area and up the tempo - always fun, always challenging, always learning! The second is motorcycling - Europe is full of wonderful roads to explore, especially in the Alps, but I also get a real buzz from travelling, meeting different people and enjoying their local environment with local delicacies and wines! Who inspires you the most? Daniel Kostiuc of Intarya Designs – he and his team always seem to get the balance right when merging the traditional with newer ideas and the attention to detail is superb. Alan Waxman of Landmass – has a good eye for transforming prime older buildings into interesting spaces with contemporary design and clean lines.

What are the latest innovations? There are some excellent new products coming through and in the right locations they really add a new dimension -

What is your current focus?

wider and longer planks, creating a stunning visual

limestone, wood and carpet are fantastic especially if they are installed well, but the new surfaces can blend themselves well to add a new contemporary feel to the area. New porcelain designs from Morocco and other places are now available

fantastic for playrooms, teenage bedrooms, entertainment and cinema areas but can also be focal points to many other spaces by the creation of colourful motifs. But stabilized aluminium foam which is a completely new resins - brilliant to showcase a centre piece or to place on a wall highlighting a piece of art. However it also has great and cinemas.

spaces that have long been forgotten and unfashionable – well they’re back and so they should be. They do not have to take over, just highlight or add to what is already there. This is a new and challenging opportunity to create beautiful, different and elegant environments that everyone can experience and enjoy. By Natasha Rogers

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D AV I D C M C A R T E R

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AT T I T U D E DETERMINES A LT I T U D E

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Promemoria UK 99-101 Pimlico Road London SWIW 8PH - UK t. +44 (0) 207 703 2514 www.promemoria.com


Image courtesy of Zaha Hadid

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$IBPUJD $IBPUJD $IBPUJD 'MVJEJUZ 'MVJEJUZ 'MVJEJUZ

By Susan Chandler


“ Hadid creates the solid apparatus to make

us perceive space as if it morphs and changes as we pass through it... Her obsession with shadow and ambiguity is deeply rooted in open nature is a politically charged riposte to modern urban landscapes.

Design Museum

of spatiality…of multiple perspective points and fragmented life.”

inspired buildings in Baghdad. She came from a bourgeois intellectual family – Ms Hadid’s father was a politician, parties. Female role models were plentiful in liberal Irag during the 1950’s and 1960’s, though not in architecture. Ms Hadid education began with convent schooling in Bagdad and then Switzerland. With a degree gained at the American University in Beirut, Hadid enrolled at the Architectural Association (AA) in London in 1972. The AA was the perfect place to nurture ambitious, independently minded, would-be architects. During the 1970’s the AA rejected the swing towards historic post-modernism and conservation in favour of a more modernist, sophisticated idea of history and human identity. It led to a form of architecture embodying modernity’s chaos and disjuncture in its very shape. Of all Ms Hadid’s tutors it was Professor Rem Koolhaas that she was drawn to and, after graduating in 1977, Professor Koolhass offered her a job as a partner in his and Ella Zenghelis’s new Rotterdam. Koolhass describes her as “a planet in her own orbit”. Her graduation project had been a hotel on London’s Hungerford bridge, called Malevich’s Tectonik, after the supremacist Kasimir Malevich. In 1928 Malevich wrote, “we can only perceive space when we break free from the earth, when Hadid’s architectural designs. In 1980, Ms Hadid established her own London-based practice, Zaha Hadid Architects, employing more than 350 people in a former Victorian school building in Clerkenwell, London. Hadid was picked as part of the seminal Deconstructivist Architecture exhibition at the Museum of Modern art, New unusually presented her ideas in impressionistic, abstract paintings, designed to convey the feel of her spaces. Critics

loved it, though MOMA visitors found Zaha’s particular, perplexing.

shapes, in

a spa planned for Hong Kong, yet was never built. Other Station” in 1994, at the production complex of the Vitra border. It was a formal success but not a functional one - the Fire Service moved out and the building converted into a chair museum. In 1994 Ms Hadid’s winning design for the Cardiff Bay Opera house, was not realised. The project was said to have been destroyed by conservatism and provincialism in relation to the modern architecture, but was not helped by the successful application for funding for the Millenium Stadium a few miles distant. Ms Hadid, philosophically describes the experience as ‘a turning point in her career.’ Then, in 2003, “the most important new building in America since the Cold war” - The Rosenthal Center for Contemporary Art was built in Cincinnati, Ohio. Described as “a kit of parts curators can customise for each show.” proving Ms Hadid’s architecture could be built and functionally utilised. In 2004, Ms Hadid won the Pritzker Architecture Prize, the year history to win. Amongst many large successful projects like the Galaxy Soho in Beijing, China, there have been more modest ones: The Maggies Centre, a cancer care centre in Kirkaldy, Scotland; the and the Stirling Prize 2010 winner; the Serpentine Sackler Gallery, London; the Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre in Baku, Azerbaijan and, more famously, the London 2012 Olympic

to include work on products as well as buildings, such as the privately commissioned, hydrogen-powered, three-wheeled automobile; an advanced boot for Lacoste; a Moon System Sofa for leading furniture manufacturer, B&B Italia and even a 90m Superyacht for Blohm+Voss. Some of her biomorphic, Hadid: Form in Motion” at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Similarly Aldo Cingolani, Managing Director of Giugiaro Architettura, uses Biomorphism currently in his designs, to create primordial shapes bringing to mind new functions, creating new exteriors and structures. The premise encompasses innovative and environmentally sustainable systems. Aldo’s design for the Parco Sportivo Polifunzionale di In 2002, Ms Hadid was made Commander of the order of the British Empire (CBE) and Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE) in the 2012 Birthday Honours for services to architecture. Dame Zaha Hadid is fast becoming one of the World’s most

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The design of the Heydar Aliyev Center establishes a continuous, interior. The plaza, as the ground surface; accessible to all as part collective celebration of contemporary and traditional Azeri culture. Elaborate formations such as undulations, bifurcations, folds, and

Image courtesy of HÊlène Binet

that performs a multitude of functions: welcoming, embracing, and directing visitors through different levels of the interior. With this gesture, the building blurs the conventional differentiation between architectural object and urban landscape, building envelope and

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The MAXXI National Museum of the 21st Century Arts, Rome, Italy should not be considered just one building - but several. The idea was to move away from the idea of “the museum as an object” and towards the

Image courtesy of Iwan Baan

site is the walls that constantly intersect and separate to create both indoor and outdoor spaces. It’s no longer just a museum, but an urban cultural centre where a dense texture of interior and exterior spaces have been intertwined and superimposed over one another. It’s an intriguing mixture

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Images courtesy of Hélène Binet


The Galaxy SOHO project in central Beijing for SOHO complex, inspired by the grand scale of Beijing. Its volumes that are set apart, fused or linked by stretched bridges. These volumes adapt to each other in all directions, generating a panoramic architecture without corners or abrupt

traditional Chinese architecture where courtyards create an internal world of continuous open spaces. Here, the architecture is no longer composed of rigid blocks, but instead comprised of volumes which coalesce to create

Images courtesy of Iwan Baan

movement between each building. Shifting plateaus within the design impact upon each other to generate a deep sense of immersion and envelopment. As users enter deeper into the building, they discover intimate spaces that follow the same coherent formal logic of continuous curvelinearity.

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Images courtesy of Blohm+Voss


The design concept is based around the sculptural form of a master prototype conceived for a 128m yacht. In addition, the Unique Circle Yachts by Zaha Hadid Architects for

underwater ecosystems, with hydrodynamic research shaping the design of the hull. The exoskeleton structure of the upper section is an interwoven network of supports that vary in thickness and lend a natural aesthetic to the yacht’s external appearance; evoking the organic structural systems of natural marine formations and connecting the various levels and decks of the ship seamlessly via expressive diagonals. Whereas traditional yacht designs adhere to a strict horizontal order, this exoskeleton creates an intense connectivity between the various decks and elements of the design. highest correlation between the various options.

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Images courtesy of Victoria’s Secret


Angel Journey’s Victoria’s Secret Swim 2014

By Jade Edwards 33 67


This year’s Swim Catalogue was inspired by “Angel Journey’s” to the most glamorous beach destinations in the world.

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The first catalogue in the series was shot by fashion photographer Russell James in Saint-Tropez, France.

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The hot trends seen in the VS 2014 swimwear collection include cutout and lace-up details, hardware accents, animal prints,and black and white swimsuits.

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by Oliver Pears 38 72


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New swim silhouettes include the high-waist, flounce styles and long line bikini tops.

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Nelson

Mandela

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“I have fought against white domination, and I have fought against black domination. I have cherished the ideal of a democratic and free society in which all persons live opportunities. It is an ideal which I hope to live for and to achieve. But if needs be, it is an ideal for which I am prepared to die” These words will echo for generations as the words that freed a of adversity and courage to stand up for what you believe in. It is our responsibility to ensure his legacy endures and never forget the suffering this man had borne.

passed. Rene Byrd, Ambassador for the Nelson Mandela President of South Africa - attended the premier and recalls the historic moment the news was broken by the Director, Justin Chadwick and the cries from the audience. “I was invited to attend the Royal Premiere for the Long Walk to Freedom and after the credits rolled there was a standing ovation. But cheers Wow! A night I will never forgot. As we all left the Odeon the world’s press was outside wanting to know how we all felt about morning following a write-up by The Times I was interviewed on the Boulton and Co show on Sky News. That was my chance to tell the world about the great man, Mr Nelson Mandela, and the Charity he set-up for the Children in South Africa. My duty is to put out the message of the charity to ensure his legacy lives on to help to raise awareness and fundraising for the hospital for the Children in South Africa. Please check out

Nelson Mandela, a South African anti-apartheid revolutionary, politician, activist, lawyer and philanthropist was a man who changed the physiognomy of racism forever. He was South representative, democratic election. He served as President of South Africa from 1994 to 1999. His lifelong focus was the dismantling of the legacy of apartheid Having been found guilty of four counts of sabotage and conspiracy to violently overthrow the government in 1963 he spent 18 years isolated - imprisoned in a damp concrete cell, measuring just 8 feet (2.4 m) by 7 feet (2.1 m), with a straw mat on which to sleep. At night he worked on his LLB degree. But newspapers were forbidden and he was locked in solitary news clippings. Classed as the lowest grade of prisoner, Class D, he was permitted one visit and one letter every six months, although all mail was heavily censored. Nature also had challenges for Mr Mandela too; in 1985 he was treated for prostate cancer; in 1988 he was diagnosed with tuberculosis. But these lonely and harrowing years passed and Nelson did not waiver in his belief of a utopian society. So much so in fact that he had been offered, on three separate occasion’s, freedom - subject to certain conditions. He rejected them all because of his belief that there would come a time when all citizens, no measures! Although this message is still to be taught and learnt in remote parts of the world, it is this belief that has continued to shape the world today. After Mr Mandela’s release on Sunday 11 February 1990, nearly over a year later he succeeded Oliver Tambo as ANC president. In 1993 he and President FW de Klerk jointly won the Nobel Peace Prize “for their work for the peaceful termination of the apartheid regime, and for laying the foundations for a new democratic South Africa” and on April 27th 1994 he was

December 5th 2013 tells this tale beautifully with a breathtaking performance by Idris Elba and Naomi Harris. Yet during the Royal Premier of this masterpiece movie, Nelson Mandela

Rene is also a singer/songwriter and works closely with various luxury fashion and make-up brands. Rene humbly says, “Having important. As a result I have aligned myself with various charities to use my talent to help spread awareness and fund-raising. I am honoured to be an ambassador for the Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund, working closely with Kathi Scott, the director of fundraising, and creating awareness about the charity.” Rene has performed for and on behalf of The Nelson Mandela Children’s Charity, including Traci Ellis Ross (Daughter of Diana Ross) Showtime at Annabel’s Private Members Club London and the art gallery opening for the Lithuanian Prime Minister. But with all these miraculous achievements and prizes Nelson Mandela’s life was never truly his own. But he can be thanked importantly he has taught everyone that is or has been oppressed and deprived, that you can succeed in obtaining the are the lessons we should take from Nelson Mandela’s life story – the triumph of the righteous over the wicked and that when encountered with adversity, if you truly believe and apply yourself you can achieve anything. By Ellora Harper

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