THE 5 EDITION TH
BA (Hons) Fashion Management
Model wears: Jumper- River Island Socks- Primark
THIS PAGE & FRONT COVER Photos by: CONNOR BEAKLY Model: BIRGIT PURG Stylists: KERRY ROSS SANDRA SAMUEL Hair & Make up: SANDRA SAMUEL KERRY ROSS
Inside Front Cover without add.indd 1
The 5th Edition... “Here you leave today and enter the world of yesterday, tomorrow, and fantasy.” (Walt Disney) Hello and welcome to the second year Fashion Management annual magazine! After much heated debate and rigorous deliberation, it was decided that we would name our magazine ‘The 5th Edition’. This is a milestone publication for us – five years have passed since the very first magazine went to print! The fashion world has gone through a major evolution since 2009. A small town girl became a Princess. The sullen Spice Girl became an established high fashion designer on a global stage. Michelle Obama wowed us all with her amazing taste in fashion, casting aside the old and dated fashion rules of being ‘The President’s Wife’. And who could forget the emergence of the bewildering fashion alien that is Lady Gaga? She’s worn a lot of crazy stuff; telephones as headgear, an outfit made purely of Kermit soft toys, the notorious meat dress (don’t try this at home)! You name it, she’s pretty much worn it. Love them or loathe them, these women have each set out to inspire and provoke a reaction within the masses. Although our magazine may not reach such a universal audience, I truly hope that this magazine inspires you in the same way. Fashion magazines are a form of escapism; a dream world that offers us a break from our day to day lives. Whether one of the fashion spreads transforms the way you dress or one of our articles changes your perceptions of fashion, I do hope that the 5th Edition will ‘strike a fashion chord’ with you, dear reader. So what are you waiting for? Enjoy our magazine! Words by Jessica Ellam
Letter From The Editor.indd 1
INSTINCT Step into the wild with make up looks that are sure to put a growl in your stride By Steff Clarke, Samanatha Clark and Grace Arthur
PHOTOSHOOT FINISHED.indd 2
THE POLAR BEAR MARJUN WEARS: JUMPER: WET SEAL NECKLACE: STYLISTS OWN PHOTOGRAPHER: ROWENA WINRAM MAKE UP ARTIST: STEPHANIE MILNE MODELS: GRACE ARTHUR, MARJUN WRAAE STYLISTS: STEFF CLARKE, SAMANTHA CLARK GRACE ARTHUR
PHOTOSHOOT FINISHED.indd 3
THE RAVEN GRACE WEARS: LEOTARD: ASOS HEADPIECE: HOUSE OF HALOS ALIEN MILITARY PIECE
7 SPREAD.indd 2
7 SPREAD.indd 3
photoshoot layout.indd 2
THE LIZARD MARJUN WEARS: NECKLACE: RIVER ISLAND TOP: TOPSHOP
photoshoot layout.indd 3
PHOTOSHOOT FINISHED.indd 2
LEFT PAGE: THE WOLF GRACE WEARS: SNOOD: DOROTHY PERKINS THIS PAGE: THE SNAKE GRACE WEARS: DRESS: TOPSHOP
PHOTOSHOOT FINISHED.indd 3
Model wears; Jovani Dress Photographer; Jonathan Addie Model; Amy Johnston Make up Artist; Jade Koemans Hair Stylist; Laurie Livingstone Stylists; Aimilia Leontara, Katy Williams and Maja Knowland
the lost princess THE EXHAUSTIVE SEARCH FOR PRINCE CHARMING IS MADE ALL THE MORE FUN WHILST ADORNED IN luxurious gowns of jewEl encrusted tulle and waterfalls of chiffon
Magazine Spread completed.indd 2
Magazine Spread completed.indd 3
Model wears; Sherri Hill Dress
Magazine Spread completed.indd 4
Magazine Spread completed.indd 5
Magazine Spread completed.indd 6
Model wears; Jovani Dress
Magazine Spread completed.indd 7
Fashion Illustration through the years. . . ...An insight into the way fashion illustration has evolved over magazine history, beautifully reflecting the moods of each era. Written By Claire Hemmings
Page 18-20.indd 2
silhouette, with no clear definition of either bust or hips this time. Illustrations started to become f you were to go back in more vibrant, playful and art deco time, far into the dusty inspired and more open to the archives of fashion magazine artists impression of the clothing, history, you would find that there rather than a detailed depiction of was once a time when pages were what the clothing actually looked filled with elaborate sketches like. Clothing began to reflect depicting aristocracy and dainty more exotic eastern styles, due little figures advertising the to the increasing opportunity finest evening gowns and lavish for the upper classes to travel sporting gear. This was a time the globe. Magazines such as before photography came in Vogue would often feature front to take the lead and fashion cover illustrations by artists illustration was the only means of like Georges Lepape and Helen showcasing the most fashionable Dryden, both of whom brought attire. When Vogue started out a refreshing dream-like embracing fashion photography quality to a much needed new during the late 1930’s and face of fashion, blurring the lines photography began to dominate between purchasing an outfit and the pages of magazines, this buying into a fantasy world.
Downton uses a similar style of ink application complimenting it with contrasting bursts of colour. Downton has applied his own interpretation however, by using notable famous actresses and models such as Erin O’Connor, Julia Roberts and Cate Blanchett as his chosen subject. This has proved to be very successful due to our modern society’s infatuation with celebrities. For over a decade, he also attended Paris catwalk shows, in order to capture what the models were wearing, along with some behind the scenes illustrations to offer an insight into the exclusive hidden world of couture. He too has become high in demand amongst some big name brands, working in association with the
...there was once a time when pages were filled with elaborate sketches depicting aristocracy and dainty little figures advertising the finest evening gowns and lavish sporting gear. led to a decline in demand for illustrative imagery. Despite this, just as fashion trends themselves fluctuate, so does the way in which we communicate them and we have begun to see a revival of fashion illustrations across magazines such as ELLE, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar over the past few decades. One of the earliest and most recognisable series of illustrations from the early 20th century was the ‘Gibson Girl’ illustrated by Charles Dana Gibson – hence the name. He portrayed the ideal standard of beauty for the time and typically portrayed the Gibson Girl with a thoughtful posed expression, looking out from underneath rippling curls pinned neatly on top of her head. Her figure was womanly, accentuated at the bust and hips and formed the ‘S’ body shape, which was a result of wearing the very constricting swan-bill corset – of course it was all the rage at the time.
Perhaps one of the most iconic Fashion Illustrators that comes to mind is René Gruau, who became highly influential after WW11. One of his most recognised collaborations was alongside Christian Dior in creating the New Look, which embraced the womanly curves once again, in full skirts drawing attention to the neatly nipped in waists. René also worked with a variety of other Haute Couture design houses such as Givenchy, Schiaperelli, Balenciaga and Lanvin. His love of women really shone through in his work, celebrating the beauty which so inspired him. The bold, yet elegant ink lines became his trademark signature style. He created a timeless look that left a remarkably lasting impression on the fashion industry; he often featured on the covers of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar until he eventually became an exclusive artist for Flair magazine. His popularity continues to reign, with references to his work still used in today’s magazines.
Times progressed and this look was soon cast aside, with the arrival of a contrasting 1920’s ‘flapper’ look, where the traditional feminine curves were replaced by a boxy looking boyish
The influence of René Gruau can still be seen in the work of contemporary artists today – David Downton is a leading example of someone who has been highly inspired by Gruau.
Page 18-20.indd 3
likes of Burberry, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges on numerous campaigns. Our fascination with the lives of the famous started to creep in as early as the 70’s; it was all about the in crowd, exciting new music genres and collaborations between artists and musicians – for example Andy Warhol’s silk screen prints of various celebrities and ‘The Factory’ where he and many other bohemians would hang out. People became more liberated in the way that they dressed and the way that they expressed themselves, experimenting with androgyny, sexuality, psychedelic design and colour. Illustrator Antonio Lopez was one of the many who thrived in this flamboyant culture. He discovered models Jerry Hall and Grace Jones, both of whom became very successful fashion icons, he often used them to pose for his illustrations. Lopez had a reputation for being quite provocative, as he was not afraid to reveal slight hints of nudity in his work. His drawings are acknowledged to have had a powerful influence over several designers, including Karl Lagerfeld. This was because Lopez applied his own unique
creative input, thus encouraging other designers to visualise their own work in a new light. At this time another exciting artist called Tony Viramontes emerged on to the scene. Viramontes got himself noticed in the 80’s, because of his distinctive new vibe in illustration methods. He experimented with mixed media, for instance, by drawing
...using flashes of electric colour, sharp lines and sultry pouted expressions. His drawings reflected the atmosphere of the eighties... on top of the photographs, adding extra detailing and lively squiggles. Viramontes embraced the era’s New Wave movement in his work by using flashes of electric colour, sharp lines and sultry pouted expressions. His drawings reflected the atmosphere of the eighties, at a time when women started to express their empowerment through the way they dressed, adopting a masculine edge and broad exaggerated shoulders which commanded a serious tone of authority. Sadly his great potential was cut short when his life ended in a car crash at the age of 33. Since then we have advanced so rapidly in technology, and despite that it is pleasing to see that we still find some comfort in the simplicity of what an effect a humble drawing can have on us. Pages of magazines are seeing fashion illustration as more of a regular occurrence these days, whether it is to back up the point of an article, advertise a new campaign, or even to grace the front cover. Company magazine is a great example, with their recent
Page 18-20.indd 4
efforts to encourage budding illustrators to take part in their competitions, the prize being a design contract with the magazine for the coming season. They have given talented individuals the chance to step up and become a part of their team. As a result Company magazine now regularly features illustration artists such as Natalie Lines. Natalie is an artist who uses soft, subtle colour palettes, a graphic approach and whimsical detailing - a perfect fit for Company’s young and excitingly fresh image. With the growing use of innovative technology, have come new forms of media to play around with. The advantage that artists possess now is the access to digital manipulation, adding a whole new dimension to the possibilities of imagery – whether it is photographic, illustrative or perhaps both if one wanted to take a page out of Viramontes’ book. While plenty of others still go by traditional methods, artists such as Nuno DaCosta – featured in Vogue magazine’s ‘Superstar Issue’ for Christmas in 2010 – use digital manipulation software such as Photoshop to add more to his work. Originally drawn out by hand, the images are then scanned in and made ‘print ready’ with a few careful tweaks to give his illustrations that highly
...the access to digital manipulation, adding a whole new dimension to the possibilities of imagery polished finish. Each surface is smoothed out with the exception of brush mark detailing, only visible exactly where he intends it to be. This gives them an overall more controlled aesthetic, which could be contrasted with René Gruau’s work which was more chaotic (as he did not have access to picture editing software), giving an overall more
spontaneous and lively feel. Another advantage that has emerged from our highly connected culture is that fashion illustrators no longer need to
...more and more fashion illustrators are making a big name for themselves by setting up their own blog online and gaining crowds of interested followers. depend on being published in a magazine in order to get noticed, more and more fashion illustrators are making a big name for themselves by setting up their own blog online and gaining crowds of interested followers. The increasing popularity of image sharing networks sites such as Instagram and Pinterest are providing a useful platform for creativity to be shared. As long as people enjoy drawing fashion and appreciate looking at it, fashion illustration will always play an important role in fashion’s identity. Perhaps the reason why fashion illustration comes back in and out of fashion every now and then is simply because we get tired of a certain style after so long as we do with trends and revisiting it after a certain amount of time makes it feel brand new to us again. An advantage that illustration will always have over photography is the fact that it is limitless and purely creative. Even when photography takes a hold of the limelight there is still something there that can’t be captured through a lens, something that needs to be translated through the tip of a paintbrush in order to be explained properly.
, £1 ize
£2 or, 1 F, £ F&
All that glitters, is not gold... 9
, £2 KO O K
The must have golden accessories, from stunning clutches to the ultimate shoes, glisten in gold this season, without that golden price tag! B ver Oli
s, £ ona
Get the Label, £7.99
FINAL PRODUCT PAGE.indd 1
ou reh Wa
£3 ta, o s i
Into the Darkness Take a journey into the unknown
Fashion Spread.indd 2
Dress - Topshop Necklace - Topshop Boots - Modelâ€™s Own
Fashion Spread.indd 3
Dress - River Island Necklace - Primark
Dress - Topshop Necklace - Topshop Hat - Topshop
Photograhed by Connor Bleakley at Meldrum House Hotel. Stylists - Jenny Cable, Nicole Browne, Jessica Ellam, Julia Beattie and Michelle Dryburgh Make Up - Michelle Dryburgh Hair - Julia Beattie
Top - Primark Skirt - Vero Moda Necklace - New Look Boots - New Look
Dress - River Island Necklace - Primark Shoes - Modelâ€™s Own Rose - Floral Design
C H E C K M AT E Cool checks and punky plaid to toughen up your wardrobe.
Pilot Anaya Tartan Check Panel Pencil Skirt in Red Wine £9.99
Oh My Love Tartan Check Lace Trim Dress £39
Words and Product Selection: Julia Beattie
Bank Fashion Shelly’s Plaid Derby Lace Up Brogue £55
F&F F&F Chiffon And Tartan Maxi Dress In Red £30
Product Page final.indd 1
Marks & Spencer Best Of British Tan Mix Wool Scarf £45
Radley Whiston Harris Tweed £249
Model: Katie Taylor Photographer: Kieran McKenzie Stylists : Ashleigh Gray, Rachel Kennedy and Jennifer Innes Hair and Make-up: Ashleigh Gray
Katie Wears: Slip Dress: £29.99 Jacket: Topshop £58 Boots: H&M £29.99 Necklace: Primark £2.50
ONCE UPON A REBELLION... page spread.indd 1
‘I use the best I use the rest I use the enemy I use anarchy...’
Katie Wears: Top: Loving Youth @ Topshop £25 Leather Trousers: H&M £14.99 Wool and Leather Jacket: AllSaints £400 Boots: H&M £29.99 Necklace: Primark £3 Scrunchie: Topshop £5
page spread.indd 2
Katie Wears: Tartan Dress: Primark £13 Boots: AllSaints £120 Scrunchie: River Island £5
page spread.indd 3
Katie Wears: Tartan Shirt: Primark T-shirt: H&M Chains: Primark £3 Leather Trousers: H&M £14.99 Boots: H&M £29.99
Photo Spread.indd 2
Katie Wears: Top: Loving Youth @ Topshop £25 Leather Trousers: H&M £14.99 Necklace: Primark £3 Scrunchie: Topshop £5
...The End page spread.indd 1
S, M& 8,00 P GB
, ms a h 0 en 85,0 b De BP G
Feel The Brit Chic!
Sim GB ply P 3 Be, 5,0 0
Mi s GB sguid P 1 ed 6,9 , 9
Next, GBP 18,00
GB Nex P 3 t, 8,0 0
d, ide u g s 9 Mis P 12,9 GB
La R ed GBP oute, 99,00
, This season Tartan coats Tweed and Trench our take you back to y roots! , ute o d 0 Re La P 99,0 GB
Prim GB ark, P8 ,00
ASOS AW13 Collection
The Square quare Route
Marks & Spencer skirt, £35
Wrap up in Scotland’s signature woven this winter. By Gillian Leslie
Tartan is the “IT” woven for this season, splashed all over every catwalk. This style originated from the famous grunge trend which can leave some of us a bit scared and clueless on how to wear tartan but these key items will help you look fearless in your checks.
Bank Fashion, £55 productpageGillianLeslie.indd 1
Soon to Rule the High Street by Lauren Scobbie
Popular “Grey Scale” retailers Marks & Spencer get a young and modern revamp… and it’s thanks to fashion students!
es, you heard correct: Your M&S was once a gold mine for your grandparents with their plain knits and muted colours. Now the retailer has transported into the here and now with younger models and unique collaborations. These partners are not celebrities and no, they are not high fashion designers. They are in fact the young, fresh-faced students of the British School of Fashion! The quirky partnership between retailer and young designers will together form the spring/ summer 2014 lines. This will be known as the “M&S Studio @ Fashion Street” in conjunction with existing M&S range “Best of British”. Sadly for this retailer fashion sales are not what they once were, with womenswear sales figures decreasing rapidly every year. The younger market are opting for the fashion forward retailers such as those of Arcadia, and it seems the once loyal M&S customers of the older market are now ditching the store for opposing department stores and even low end retailer Primark! You maybe slightly shocked when envisioning those of the grey scale in Primark’s rip off UGGs (I know I am) or worse still your gran displaying her new imitation Disco Pants. It is true: those of the grey scale are vastly becoming addicted to Primark’s budget copies of Marks and Spencer’s. How did this shocking switch over come about? We’re all feeling the pinch as the credit crunch continues, and thanks to Primark’s budget carbon copies of M&S’ garments the low end retailer has become a “middle-class staple”. I, for one, was gobsmacked to learn of the opening of Primark concessions in Selfridges Department stores. So while M&S enlisted the help of inspirational “leading ladies” Dame Helen Mirren, Darcey Bussell and Tracy Emin to front their £5 million campaign featuring the help of Rolling Stone Magazine and Vanity Fair photographer Annie Leibovitz, it seems Primark’s zero advertising and cheap and cheerful prices have won the public over. I know what you’re thinking: young influence is the key to M&S’ future campaigns in both design and promotion. Despite the seemingly successful launch of lingerie from Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, hot model of the moment, disappointing figures show a
ONE PAGE ARTICLE.indd 2
massive decline for the fashion sales year at HQ, a 9.1% fall for the ninth consecutive quarter. A stroke of genius however from Marc Bolland, M&S’ Chief Executive and acting Creative Director could save the stores’ fashion department by restoring plummeting fashion sales back to their former glory, and offering fresh new talent British talent the job of a lifetime. The brains behind the operation said:
in the construction of garments. What should we expect? This collection includes both mens and womenswear combining “M&S’ rich heritage with modern styling to create an edit of timeless pieces with an emphasis on true British craftsmanship and quality.” Garments will be created using luxury materials such as Scottish Cashmere and Yorkshire Heritage Tweed, affirming the
“M&S Fashion Scholarship is an exciting way for our designers to work with some of the British School of Fashion’s best young design talent and for M&S to invest in the British fashion leaders of tomorrow.” - Marc Bolland, Chief Executive M&S So what does this opportunity mean for the students? Well according to M&S the five year long contract allows students a “working external design studio,” where they will collaborate with existing M&S designers comprising experiences of both the old and new, the professionals and the students. This is in addition to an “Online Publishing Suite” consisting of a “digital content hub” allowing access to influences and design inspirations from all over the globe. Rewarding students for their contribution to the future success of Marks & Spencer, the company will return the favour in the form of a large sum of money described as the “M&S Fashion Scholarship”; an annual sum of £50,000. This grant will support students’ financial needs for the duration of their academic years. Who are the lucky students that get to partake in this opportunity of a lifetime? Students and soon to be “M&S Fashion Scholars” will be handpicked by the expert panel of the British School of Fashion. According to the institution, “Programmes will combine theoretical learning and practical experience to give graduates the creative, entrepreneurial and practical skills they require to provide the leadership and vision which will help transform the business of fashion.” The first set of Scholars were selected by M&S fashion moguls early February 2014 based on their creativity, style originality and technical skills
stamp of high quality the retailer is renowned for. Approximately 75% of fabrics will be sourced and manufactured in the UK. For myself and all other students hoping to get their paws on these new innovative collections, the price tag is where the dream ends, and our jaws fall to the floor. Unless of course you have a spare £350 burning in your pocket or a student credit card you’re willing to max out. Although the prices of these pieces are not favourable among students and bargain hunters, we must remember: we are paying for long lasting, high quality garments, an aspect Marks & Spencer will never compromise for a cheaper label. So when digging out your purse or wallet at the checkout, immediately planning a week of no food or heating, remember: you are paying for not only quality but staple pieces. These trends will never disappear, just as the fabrics of your garment won’t tear, fade or lose shape after the first wash. For those of you who are still unconvinced that staple pieces are worth the price, fear not: many garments of the range start at £45, a semireasonable price in this poor student’s opinion. Our fashion students of Britain talk the talk, but can they walk the catwalk? So far extremely positive comments on the project have been received. Professor Christopher Moore, Director of the British School of Fashion states: “This new initiative clearly demonstrates both creativity and innovation on the part of Marks and Spencer. We are looking forward immensely to working with the M&S team at Fashion Street.”
up e m ga r i e xy e h t s step ng and S M& a you with p! m reva
Clockwise: Per Una Jacket- £89 Limited Edition Dress - £45 Best of British Skirt - £119 Limited Edition Shirt- £29.50 Autograph Coat - £139 M&S Collection Dress - £49.50 M&S Collection Top - £29.50 Bag - £35 www.marksandspencer.com Words and product selection: Lauren Scobbie
Coat - £110 Top - £35 Skirt - £29.50 Bag- £29.50 Belt - £19.50 Necklace - £19.50
Per Una Dress - £150 Necklace - £19.50 / £25
Limited Edition Top - £39.50 Necklace - £25 Bracelet - £15 / £17.50 Ring - £7.50
Product page - COMPLETE.indd 1
Step out in style with these classic essentials
shoot pages.indd 2
fluffy knit jumper and check skirt both Topshop; shirt New Look; glasses Ray Ban; beret thrifted; shoes Kurt Geiger
shoot pages.indd 3
shoot pages.indd 4
coat New Look; shirt Zara; skirt Primark; bag TK Maxx; shoes model’s own; watch model’s own
shoot pages.indd 5
shoot pages.indd 6
shirt H&M; coat New Look; scarf model’s own; glasses Ray Ban; watch model’s own
p h o t og r a p h e r - F i o n a R e n n i e s t y l i s t - C l a i re H e m m i n g s model - Suzy Camlin
shoot pages.indd 7
Wolf Sweater A/Wear £27.50 Skater Skirt PU £35.00
Back is always
Find your essential black statement piece! By Sarah Louise Jones Art Deco Bug Necklace Newlook £6.99
Cocoon Coat M&S £299 Chelsea Boot M&S £185
Crop Top Blue inc £21.99 PU Sleeve Coat Primark £22.00
Hensall Large Grab Bag Radley London £249
Heeled Brogues Next £40.00
Printed Trousers Very £29.00
ProductPageSarahJonesFinal .indd 1
Skater Skirt Pilot £21.99
White Noise Modelled by: Chloe Hutchinson Premiere Productions Styled by: Katie Langlands, Danielle Mcbain and Gillian Leslie Photographed by: Rowena Winram
Dress, £45, Oh My Love Shoes, £60, River Island
Playsuit, £46, Topshop Bow Tie, £5, Court Jester
Coat, £58, Topshop Shirt, £28; Shorts, £18; Shoes, £40, All River Island
Hat, £15, River Island Dress, £12, Topshop
Dress, £45, Oh My Love
Season’s Go This Mono Mad ‘Must-Haves’ For M O N O C H R O M E
Dulce Greek Key Print Oversized Crop Top £12.99, Missguided
Ruke Dogtooth Oversize Knitted Top £16.99, Missguided
Words and Product Selection by Sarah Whyte
Monochrome Sequin Peplum Top £99, Jaeger
Monochrome Skirt £80, Jaeger
Bernetta Panel Bodycon Dress £32.99, Missguided
Zamira Tribal Monochrome Hot Pants £22.99, Missguided Ramuna Monochrome Square Print Trousers £18.99, Missguided
the final touch... Myleene Klass Lipstick £19, Littlewoods
Lux Diamond Metal Stretch Bracelet £14, Accessorize
Monochrome Jacket, Jaeger
Rihanna for River Island Heeled Boot £120, River Island
Embellished Coin Purse £3, Primark
Stockists: www.missguided.co.uk, www.riverisland.com, www.jaeger.co.uk, www.littlewoods.com, www.primark.com, uk.accessorize.com.
sarah whyte product page.indd 1
The Gender Debate
Androgynous modelling is taking the fashion world by storm, but why are more and more models becoming gender-ambiguous?
ndrogyny: possessing both male and female qualities or characteristics. Some people may find this word embarrassing, even insulting when being used to describe their appearance. But, for more and more models nowadays, it is what is distinguishing them from others in this highly competitive industry. Elliot Sailors is the most recent androgynous model to hit headlines over her choice to model for both womenswear and menswear labels. Previously mainly a swimwear model, with long blonde hair and a very feminine look, she decided to make a life-changing decision to model as both a man and a woman. On making this important transition, she said she was “fascinated” with male model Andrej Pejic’s work as a female model. A year later, she went on a “personal development course and explored ideas around gender” allowing her to make a statement with her own look. She was a stereotypically American commercial model, but had never been interested in looking ultra-feminine off-camera, and was really attracted to the artistic side of high-fashion modelling, which gave her the push to make a drastic change to her appearance. Since cutting her hair, Elliot has become a “star” in the male modelling industry. Although she models men’s clothing and has masculine features, she in no way wants to be a man. She married her husband, a former model, a year ago, and said he eventually came to understand why she wanted to change her look. “I don’t think he quite got what I was trying to achieve by becoming a ‘male model’,” she reflects on her husband’s first thoughts, but after showing him some of Andrej Pejic’s photographs, he agreed with her that “what he was doing was really interesting” and supports her decision in wanting to “challenge perception”.
clothing to “master the art of seduction”. It also pushes the boundaries of fashion, showing that not everyone needs to conform to society. Many designers aim for this disregard of rules as they want their clothes to bring individuality to each person who buys and wears their garments. Some also believe that androgyny doesn’t stop at physical appearance and clothing, but at personality and lifestyle.
herself”, something that could encourage young teens to embrace who they really are. She has also said that her “responsibility is to kids who might feel shame – might be ostracized from society – just for being different”. These are commendable sentiments and would surely support the need for these gender neutral role models. There are also models with different views; those who wish to live their lives as the opposite gender. One notable example is Brazilian Lea T, a transsexual model who has worked alongside the likes of Kate Moss, has been the face of Givenchy and has graced the cover of Elle magazine. While still a man, Lea T modelled womenswear, and by the time she underwent sex reassignment surgery, she was already a familiar face within the fashion industry. She was the first to model both men’s and womenswear, kicking off the androgynous trend, and was the first transsexual model to become internationally acclaimed.
Andrej Pejic has taken the fashion world by storm and is one of the most famous androgynous models, becoming a “cultural sensation”. He is the first transgender model to walk in a couture show, modelling wedding dresses by Jean Paul Gaultier. With his feminine, yet strong features, Pejic is able to model clothes for both sexes. According to the Andrej Pejic Official website, he owns the title of gracing the most magazine covers of any male model, proving his unusually feminine look is doing him no harm in this extremely competitive industry. Although Pejic is still a man, he said in a recent interview that he prefers to be referred to as “she” Androgynous models are not only becoming and describes himself as “living between well-known in the fashion industry, they genders” making him gender neutral. are becoming more and more popular on TV also. In the most recent series of ‘America’s Next Top Model’ Cory Hindorff, So does this mean androgynous models a male model who used his femininity to want to be something they aren’t? Or his advantage, came third overall, beating are models doing it to capture artistic, seventeen other competitors trying to make unconventional photographs? Elliot Sailors it in the modelling industry. Before entering said she has no desire to change gender, ‘Top Model’ Hindorff worked as a drag queen in Philadelphia, an experience he used to his advantage in the show, gaining him much praise. In one shoot, the contestants were dressed as the opposite sex in a video to advertise a fragrance. This was the only time that he won “best photo of the week” in the judging room being happily married and still loving her showing encouragement from some of natural body, but embracing her masculine the biggest names in the fashion industry features to create more high-fashion, for androgynous modelling. Although artistic photographs. Agyness Deyn and using his androgynous look made him Stella Tennant also follow the same ideals. unique and noticeable, the judges were They are both comfortable as women, but divided, with some thinking he should have use their short hair and strong features emphasized his masculine look, whereas to advantage in their careers, something others thought he should have been many models with very feminine figures whoever he wanted to be and embrace his and faces cannot do. Casey Legler made drag queen persona. He said on moving fashion history by becoming the first ahead as a model, that he would continue woman to be exclusively signed as a male modelling menswear, but would always model, only appearing in men’s shows be true to himself by bringing a feminine and menswear campaigns. She was an edge to all of his bookings, saying he Olympic swimmer before making the move wants, “to make a change in the industry.” to have a career in modelling. Legler has very recognisable features, with a strong jawline, a gap between her front teeth and ‘The Androgynous Model’, a new webshort, quiffed hair, making her an exemplary based show which aired in America androgynous model. She has stated that earlier this year, featured contestants who modelling as a man makes her feel “true to embraced both genders in not only their
“My responsibility is to kids who might feel shame – might be ostracized from society – just for being different”
Elliot is just one of many models who are following the androgynous trend. Big names in the modelling industry, including Stella Tennant and Agyness Deyn, are managing to secure the unique jobs that demand this mixed-gender look. With androgynous models becoming increasingly well-known, there is a growing market for individuals with both feminine and masculine features, but is androgynous modelling just a fad or is it here to stay? Some designers think this is a stimulating way to mix both the feminine and masculine elements of
“It has little to do with sexual preference”
everyday life, but also in their modelling careers. The show has a similar concept to ‘America’s Next Top Model’ with the hopefuls competing in photoshoots, catwalks and style challenges. It hopes to highlight that androgynous modelling has “little to do with sexual preference... but rather is about gender presentation and manifests in how one dresses, stands, sits or walks”. The show does however shed light on the difficulties and prejudices faced by these androgynous models. Sometimes agents would compliment a model’s looks, but wouldn’t book them as they didn’t fit the brief. As the models usually want to sport clothes of the opposite gender, agents are not always willing to take the risk, especially on models who are not as well known as the likes of Andrej Pejic and Casey Legler. The show has attracted attention from New York, Atlanta, Latin America and Germany, so there appears to be a growing interest in androgynous modelling, hopefully this means that there is also an expanding market for models that can rock both feminine and masculine looks. This show has pushed boundaries and allowed models to express themselves, and hopefully teaches others that it is okay to embrace who you really are. Looking at all types of androgynous models, from those who live their whole lives as the opposite sex to those who look at androgynous modelling as just a job, there is something admirable and for some, inspirational about what they do. They are not afraid to be themselves, show their true colours and they all have the courage to go against “normality” by embracing both genders. So, in the words of Casey Legler: “it would be a really beautiful thing if we could all just wear what we wanted, without it meaning something.”
Written by Briege Smith
To Top It All Off Itâ€™s the first thing we see and now the last we will forget. Subtle but strong, these make up looks will see you through from day to night. Add a killer lip and you will be the talk of the party.
Make up Artist: Natalie Fearnley Photographer: Niki Clark Styling Assistants: Emma White, Briege Smith, Mhairi Taylor, Samantha Sneddon
Photo Spread Emma White.indd 2
Start off by using Chanel Perfection Lumiere foundation £36, blending in MAC Cover Up Concealer £15 for a glowing base. Use Naked by Urban Decay (palette is £37) as a base for your eyes, blending Sable by MAC £12.50 in the creases and above the eyes. Darken the edges with Smog from the Urban Decay palette and use it on the lower lash line for a strong but natural eye. Apply 3 coats of your favourite mascara to add that finishing touch.
Photo Spread Emma White.indd 3
Darken the natural look by adding in a dark brown eyeliner to the lower lash line (Urban Decay Glide eye pencil in Hustle £14). Apply more Smog near the brow bone to create a bronzed smokey eye!
Photo Spread Emma White.indd 4
For cheek bones your friends will envy, start off by applying Benefit High Beam £19.50 to cheek bones. Then, use a generous amount of MAC Gold Deposit £22 along the cheek bones and just below, to contour and highlight. Finish off with a nude lip (MAC lipstick in You’ve Got It £16.50)
Turn either of the previous looks into night ones by adding a strong lip. Start off with MAC Prep + Prime Lip ÂŁ12.50 to make sure it lasts. Then, using a lip liner brush, apply MAC Red ÂŁ15 for an even and perfect lip. Keep the hair natural for a relaxed but striking look.
Photo Spread Emma White.indd 5
All Hail for Hayley
As the light shines on Scottish fashion designer, Hayley Scanlan, the story behind her raw talent is unravelled. By Nuala Boal
ew York, Milan, Paris, London. Four capitals that scream out all things fashion. The luxurious labels dominate the streets and have us lusting over every little detail, from skirt to scarf. When it comes to Scotland, the word ‘fashion’ may not be the first thing that springs to mind. A pocket-sized country yet brimming with talent and let’s not forget
Article on Hayley Scanlan .indd 2
tantalising tartan! Producing Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, Holly Fulton to name just a few, Scotland has brought an array of talented fashion designers to the world over the years, a factor that is forgotten from time to time. The big question is, do you need to move to one of the big cities to be successful? Although the four fashion capitals are crammed with
style, if Scottish fashion designer Hayley Scanlan is anything to go by then we don’t think you need to be in one of the big cities to be successful... Anything But Ordinary From afar, Hayley Scanlan may just look like an ordinary woman living an everyday life. Born and raised in the Scottish city of
Dundee, Hayley’s ambition of a life filled with arts was always a dream which was never too far from reality. Her love for the subject ran throughout school, continuing her creativity on to university where she studied Textile Design at Duncan of Jordanstone in her home city. From this,
“Hayley was on the brink of giving up on the business altogether.” the talented Scanlan went on to intern as a print designer at Jeremy Scott in Beverly Hills where she printed her very own creations onto a range of fabrics; outstanding being just 25 years old at the time. Taking a closer look at a mini snapshot of her life, it is fair to say that this lovely lady is anything but ordinary. Despite having twin sons aged just 2, Hayley balances the chaotic life of being a mother with the mayhem of running her own fashion design label; double the pressure, double the stress. Being a dedicated single mother and having your own fashion label cannot be easy yet her creations say otherwise, screaming out with great beauty and elegance. Scanlan has a raw talent that all aspiring designers are dreaming of and it is one that we do not want to miss out on. A Life Outside of London Hayley has made a successful life for herself outside of the famous fashion capitals. Her workplace recently moved from her conservatory at home to having her very own studio in Dundee, a big leap for the daring designer yet critical in order to allow her creations to explode and her mind to breathe. In 2012, she was given the biggest boost of all for any aspiring fashion designer; winning the award for Young Scottish Designer of The Year, bringing her creations to the limelight for all to see. Such an incredible honour considering her line had only just started. Extraordinary things were envisioned for Scanlan, however it wasn’t long that Hayley was on the brink of giving up on the business altogether. Although it was still doing exceptionally well, Hayley has her two children, Freddie and Oscar, to consider and juggling being a parent and running a fashion business was becoming a struggle and taking its toll financially. When money was coming in from her work, it was going straight back into the business. Chaotic and tedious to say the least. Little did she know that just around the corner was going to be the start of Hayley Scanlan’s big break… Topshop Mania ...August 2013. It was soon to be one of the most challenging months in Hayley’s career but the one that would marvellously make or bitterly break her. After just one year from launching her spectacular line, Hayley
Article on Hayley Scanlan .indd 3
Scanlan had been specially selected by Topshop to have her Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, ‘Queen of Hearts’, displayed in their outrageously massive store in Oxford Street in London in the style of a pop-up store. As if that was not overwhelming enough, she was one of just four designers in the world to be picked. A dream come true for any fashion designer and just what Scanlan needed to pick her up. Now, it was time to get to work. Hayley had just four weeks to create the order of 300 garments for Topshop and as each piece is carefully hand-made to the point of perfection, it wasn’t envisioned to be a smooth ride. The job was quite simply impossible to complete alone, Scanlan had to round up friends, family members and previous interns to help out whether it was cutting fabrics or sewing on the embellishments, any small job helped massively. After just a few weeks of complete dedication, sleepless nights and no doubt a few tears along the way, the job was completed and ready to be displayed in the Topshop store. It was the 1st September 2013. The garments took their place in the pop-up store, ready to fly off the rails. To make things even better, this coincided with London Fashion Week, the ultimate time to get your name out and this was her chance
“...this was her chance to shine.” to shine. The success was unbelievable, boosting Hayley’s spirits and bringing the label back to life. A real triumph. After the success of the Topshop pop-up store, Hayley brought the store back to her roots. Debenhams in Dundee displayed her popup store for a long weekend the following month where her courageous creations took their place under the spotlight once again. A refreshing factor for all inspiring creative minds within the city. The Queen of Our Hearts The ‘Queen of Hearts’ collection which was displayed in pop-up stores at opposite ends of the nation is simply beautiful. Take a glance at the previous collections such as her graduating collection, ‘New Frontiers’ or the vivid ‘Velvet Venom’ and you can see Scanlan’s love for all things cut-out and fabulous embellishments; distinct features in her designs and a constant continuation throughout her collections. Despite this, Scanlan focuses on creating pieces which are the perfect mixture of being wearable yet eye grabbing; using a simple silhouette to create strong designs. She never shies away from being different and showing her bold personality throughout. This collection is definitely no exception. Daring blues and blacks mixed with rich reds and vivid shades of white are mashed together in a fusion of brilliance,
creating a range of delicate garments which break the boundaries. The collection reflects her love for 80’s icon Debbie Harry as a sense of the punk era is scattered across the collection. Of course, as the name suggests, the previous Queen of Scotland, Mary Stuart is another inspiration for the collection. Scanlan describes her as being a ‘’rebellious heroine’’ and she shows off her Scottish roots and splashes it all over in such a genius way. It is clear to see that pairing these two inspirational figures together certainly does create this wonderful collection. It has been constructed with fabric which is more cost effective for the company than her previous collections, a factor which needed to be addressed after her previous chaotic struggle. It is the little changes that have helped maintain the label, for instance instead of using real leather for the skirts, a synthetic patent fabric has been used. They are so beautiful that you would not even know the difference. It is the prints, zips and embellishments which make Scanlan’s designs so lustrous and she plans to keep it this way in order to stand apart from the highstreet retailers yet still be affordable to a similar market. A Glowing Future With more and more celebrities sporting Hayley’s designs, it is almost impossible to get away from this talented lady. Although there are certainly no complaints. Jessie J, Little Mix and The Saturdays are just a select few of the celebrities who have proudly showed off the label. The everso fabulous Erin O’ Connor attended Scanlan’s degree show which included her graduating collection ‘New Frontiers’. The biggest compliment of all was paid to her when O’Connor personally asked if she could have a jacket from the collection made specifically for her. This was right at the very start of her career, an indication of how successful she was going to be and Hayley has proved this success over the past two years. From a student in a small city to a shining star in the limelight of the
“A real inspiration...” fashion industry. Who would have thought it? A real inspiration for any Scot, displaying that no dream is too big no matter your background or where you were brought up. You don’t have to be born and bred in one of the major cities to become a success. There are just two things you really need: dedication and determination. Hayley Scanlan has only just started her journey, a fascinating one at that and it is very clear that she’s not leaving the scene any time soon. Her designs have already captured our attention, so what will she do next? We are hungry for more and it is sure to be something incredible.
ILLNESS DETERMINE YOUR
Identity? I talk to Rachel, a strong young woman whose life and image was challenged by Crohn’s disease. Have you ever sat down and just wondered what exactly it is that makes you who you are, what features create your whole identity? It could be your sassy style, a pair of mesmerizing, blue eyes or those thick, luxurious locks. Each element of who you are - from your ears and nose to your hopes and dreams - is what I like to call ‘you-ness’. It’s the word to describe every inch and essence of your being. Imagine being hit by the discovery of a disease that will not only change the way you look and feel but your entire lifeeverything you loved and didn’t love, knew and didn’t know your entire ‘you-ness’. I knew Rachel as the girl with a flair for performing arts, someone strong in her Christian faith and a bright and bubbly personality that made Philosophy and Ethics lessons so much more interesting - this was her ‘Rachelness’. Unfortunately, when Rachel was diagnosed with Crohn’s disease, all these aspects of her life were challenged. Crohn’s is a form of inflammatory bowel disease that can cause abdominal pain, diarrhoea with possible traces of blood, vomiting and weight loss. As
What makes you... you? well as these difficulties with the digestive system, it may also result in complications including anaemia, skin rashes, arthritis, inflammation of the eyes, tiredness and lack of concentration. As females, we’ve already experienced many physical and emotion strains having come upon us throughout our lives, especially those involving our sense of selfesteem and identity - and we can expect more to come about in the future. Something we can’t predict is the revelation of a medical condition that causes a variety of symptoms, different for each person diagnosed. From weight loss to hair loss, we look at Rachel’s journey.
Rachel's Story When did you first discover that you had Crohn’s and what was your first reaction? When I was initially told of the possibility that I had Crohn’s, it was definitely a big shock. The disease was so unknown to me and, being one that affects everyone differently, the extent of its damage and later complications were hard to imagine. In September 2011 I was diagnosed, following an operation to remove the diseased part of my bowel but, as the actual diagnosis was expected for a long time, I wasn’t really shocked.
What was life like before discovering the disease? Before I was diagnosed with Crohn’s Disease, I spent a lot of time singing and acting. I was extremely outgoing and loved to take trips out to new places with my friends.
How was this all affected after that I could apply for a wig the diagnosis and you began through the NHS and this really taking medication? was helpful but, as it took a few weeks for that to happen, A few months before I was I experimented with different diagnosed and leading up to it, headscarves so in the meantime I started to experience many which were kindly donated by symptoms which then restricted friends. As well as using these, me from continuing many of my I bought a couple of wigs to try normal activities. I struggled out too. I think the hardest with identifying foods that challenge has come since losing I could eat and those that my eyelashes and eyebrows. I am didn’t agree with me and had used to wearing false eyelashes difficulties with fatigue, for nights out but had never which was often a side effect considered having to wear them of medication. At my worst, I regularly as a daytime look. was immobile and had to use a The concept seemed strange at wheelchair to get around. Also, first but I adjusted to it up until recently, I suffered quickly and now it’s just part with intense stomach pains that of my morning routine. I have have, thankfully, completely never had any comments made reduced since starting my new about it as I naturally had treatment. long, thick eyelashes, however the eyebrows are a trickier challenge. I find it incredibly And how was your sense of hard to draw on eyebrows every day and this is the one thing identity affected? that seems to really stress me My sense of identity definitely out. I feel really fake and took a knock. While I was at my struggle to come to terms with weakest, I felt like I wasn’t it but life goes on and I have myself at all. At first, my to find a way to cope with it. friends often expected me to I am coping better but there act how I used to, especially are definitely times where I as my disease didn’t appear to just want to sit and cry as affect me physically, besides I wonder how on earth I am in weight loss. However, more this position. recently, my new medication as caused me to lose all my hair. It wasn’t expected and happened Is there a message you’d like very quickly. Although I can to give to use wigs to cover it up, when I others going look at myself in the mirror, I through the don’t feel like me. I have lost same trials a lot of confidence and often as you? worry that my friends will treat me differently. Going from a Our image healthy person to someone who plays a was suddenly labelled as having m a s s i v e an illness was definitely hard role in our to adjust to. People start to identity and think of you as someone who is forms a big automatically inhibited by an part of who we illness as if it affects you are. When it is and your identity. taken from you
I soon learnt that I wasn't defined by my disease. So your most recent type of medication has caused hair loss, how have you been experimenting and adjusting to this new appearance? Losing my hair came as a massive shock and I wasn’t sure how I was going to cope. I knew
so quickly, it is often hard to cope as we can feel so lost in who we are. For me this has been a really big learning curve and has played an important part in discovering more about me. Through my faith I have come to realise that what we look like on the outside is not that important in the eyes of God. What our hearts look like is more important. I want each and every one of you to know that you are all beautiful inside
and out. Not having hair doesn’t make you any less beautiful then someone who does. Use this opportunity to show people what an amazing personality you have. Be that encouragement to people, be that light that shines in the darkness. I know that I hope to be that person for someone, a person who can help support others and remind them of all the things to be grateful about. I am truly in awe of Rachel’s positivity in such difficult times and anyone else who has gone through similar circumstances. A close family friend has recently began chemotherapy for breast cancer and yet still exudes this strong and hopeful attitude that is an inspiration to anyone around her. Even though she may suffer great fatigue sometimes, she simultaneously remains full of life and faith - and this is a greater identity to hold than any. In all conditions, surround yourself with a positive support system and remember that your identity is not diminished to make room for any illness, disease or circumstance. This advice isn’t just for dealing with hair loss or symptoms of Crohn’s or cancer, this is for all illnesses and diseases.
Let the experience mould you into a stronger person than you ever were before because, when you come out on the other side, you’ll only be tougher and an inspiration to others. Remember who you were and who you are at all times and allow your identity, your ‘you-ness’ to shine through above all else.
For the Regal Lady with a little extra curve
Magazine spread.indd 2
Lingerie: Tesco, Cardigan: NEXT
Director/Stylist/Model: Sarah Louise Jones, Photographer: Darryl Duncan
Magazine spread.indd 3
Lingerie: ASDA, Cardigan: Tesco Magazine spread.indd 4
Lingerie: ASDA Magazine spread.indd 5
THE B TRAP!
BY By Kirsty Stevenson.
High demand for clothes to fit big breasts. Be careful what you wish for! Never did I think as I looked in the mirror at my boyish profile and longed to be like my then idol Jordan aka Katie Price - that my wish would come true... In my defence I was only 12!! However, having big boobs is not all it’s cracked up to be. It is often said that “fashion is an expression of identity” but what if the clothes that you feel match your personality are not made to match your chest size? Why should young girls with naturally - or surgically enhanced - big breasts have to suffer the humiliation of spending forever in the changing room of the likes of Topshop and Miss Selfridge trying desperately to do up the zip on a dress? Having large breasts can pose a serious challenge for women when it comes to choosing and finding the right clothes. It is, for example, pointless buying the next size or two up if it is meant to be a figure hugging dress as there will be excess material around the waistline - not a good look. Indeed, a third of UK women say they have to buy a bigger dress size just to accommodate their breasts. In our socially developed society this fact is astonishing. Clothes should be made to fit the body, not for the body to fit the dress. While a bigger bust is often deemed desirable, sometimes the reality can be far from this. I was eagerly anticipating my first visit to Pepperberry (an off-shoot of Bravissimo who are known for specialising in larger lingerie sizes) but was soon feeling disappointed. Despite the quality and fit of the clothes, the styles were much more suited to my mother than myself. The size chart ranging from curvy to super curvy is ideal for female customers who just need a few extra inches around the bust line but unfortunately this did not translate into clothes for fashion conscious young women. I recall my school days when I struggled to find a shirt which was fitted, yet didn’t look as though the top 4 buttons were going to pop off. I eventually gave up and opted for a tentlike boyish version. I did not however think it was fair that some of my friends had shirts that nipped them in at the waist whereas I was left looking overweight and with no waist at all. As I am now at the stage of looking for work placements and eventually for a job
magazine article.indd 2
“Jourdan Dunn cancelled from Dior couture line up due to ‘ample cleavage.’ She is sized 32A.” when I graduate, I am concerned that I will not only have to worry about whether I am impressing with my knowledge at an interview - but perhaps more crucially - if my button is going to fly off and ping the interviewer in the eye at any given moment. Probably not the best first impression! In 2012 it was reported that the average women’s breast sizes in the UK had increased to a 34DD from a 34B in 2010. Sales of larger bras at Debenhams have risen greatly but conversely they are selling brands such as Lipsy, known for its miniscule bust allowance. This makes me question why nothing has yet been done to address this issue. There are more slim women now with larger boobs than ever before - also known as the so called ‘lollipop look’. What is the point in buying a perfectly fitting bra but then having to squeeze your boobs into a dress that is too tight which inevitably leads to the undesirable 4 boobs? As a fashion statement, wearing something lower cut is difficult because instead of just looking slightly flirtatious, an overflowing bosom can make a girl look tarty. On first meeting somebody, this can give off a completely false idea of what that person is really like. First impressions are very important and not just at interviews. Just as there is a national standard of bra measurements such as 32C etc., it would make sense for the apparel industry to follow
the introduction of a sizing scale which will allow all females to have a pleasant and straightforward shopping experience. Why should retailers be allowed to be ‘boobist’? They cater for petite, tall and plus sized but not those with just large breasts. It may be helpful in saving time for women with this body shape because of the reduced choice options, but it’s certainly not going to make it a pleasant shopping trip. The Guardian reported in December 2011 that it is estimated over 25,000 British women a year opt to have breast implants. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons annual statistical report in 2012 showed that 82,500 females aged between 20-29 had breast augmentation in the US. This huge number, coupled with those women who are naturally well endowed, relates to a sizeable target market. It is inconceivable that some manufacturers or retailers have not yet exploited this ‘undeveloped’ potential which could be easily reslised through
minor changes in the manufacturing process. A little extra material here and a little more stretch there is all it would take.
worn to job interviews though, so it looks like the struggle for appropriate and flattering work wear continues.
However, I do feel that retailers are slowly-but surely beginning to understand the need for more size ranges to allow us girls with bigger boobs to feel comfortable in what we are wearing. It wasn’t long ago that shops were still selling bikinis as a ‘set’. They had obviously decided on behalf of all their consumers that if you were a size 8 on the bottom you should be a size 8 on top. How wrong could they be? The likes of H&M still haven’t grasped the whole ‘some women are slim with big boobs’ concept which is a shame as their bikinis are always beautiful but are mainly the bandeau styled ones which aren’t supportive/ don’t have the right fit for larger busts. On the other hand, River Island seem to be catching onto the change in body shapes and are now selling the two items individually whilst making the bikini tops almost as supportive as bras. Shoppers can buy size 8 bottoms and a size 16 top for example.
It's not surprising that larger racks are popular - with role models like Victoria Beckham, Nicole Richie, Halle Berry and most of the TOWIE cast having had breast implants. Nevertheless, these glamorous ladies can afford to have either outfits customized or designer pieces made specifically for them. The torture for averagely paid females of finding clothing to enhance their boobs instead of squashing them is ongoing. Often they have to pay for a seamstress to alter clothes to fit.
I feel it is so important that more of the ‘trendy’ retailers cater for their young customer base to avoid women feeling punished for their breast size. Ladies of all sizes should be allowed to walk into any shop and be able to have a wide range of swimwear to choose from that doesn’t make them look less fashionable than their friends as they parade at the pool parties in Ibiza. I can only thankfully imagine the embarrassment of jumping into a swimming pool on holiday with my girlfriends to discover my bikini top couldn’t contain my boobs meaning most of the other holiday makers had seen them too. So, at least this aspect of the fashion industry is starting to wake up to reality. Sadly, bikini tops cannot be Attractive...
Yes, at times girls do want to flaunt their assets but that doesn’t mean to say they want them to be pushed so far up they are practically chin rests because their garments are too tight. And, indeed there are occasions where this would be wholly inappropriate.
“A third of UK women say they have to buy a bigger dress size just to accommodate their breasts.”
A curvy Cindy Crawford Perhaps retailers are being influenced by the size zero phenomenon in the fashion industry? Many male designers such as Karl Lagerfeld wish for their clothes to be worn by female models who are shaped like boys. This fact is also highlighted by that infamous occasion where Jourdan Dunn was cancelled from the Dior couture line up due to her ‘ample cleavage’. She is sized 32A. It really says a lot about the current thinking in the fashion industry and emphasises that what they perceive to be ‘normal’ is so far from reality. It also looks like my dreams of modelling couture are shattered! Twenty years ago everyone was mesmerised by the likes of supermodel Cindy Crawford who was positively curvaceous but unfortunately I wasn’t even born then. Any fashion show I have watched in this decade has mainly consisted of pin thin models with bodies that bear no resemblance to my own, yet that is what most stores are catering for. If only I had realised that my wish would turn into a curse. And maybe I should have paid more attention in those sewing classes... Image in title - PR Shots. Image of Cindy Crawford- Getty Images. All other images and words - Kirsty Stevenson.
magazine article.indd 3
Zero Models by Katie Langlands
verybody is jealous of super models with their stunning looks, perfect hair and super slim figures, right? If they aren’t strutting their stuff down fashion catwalks they are out partying with celebrities and famous designers, right? Wrong. If they aren’t being transported all over the world being judged and treated like cattle they are likely to be looking at themselves in the mirror wondering how many calories were in that lettuce they had for tea last night. The “glamorous” role of being a super model is not quite what it seems. Runway models are required to be a height of 5ft 10inches or more. For being this tall, a healthy weight would be anything from 140lbs – 175lbs. In today’s industry, if a 5ft10 model weighs anything over 115lbs then they are likely to find themselves jobless. Why is this acceptable? Why should any industry be promoting protruding collar bones and visible rib cages? The question of how thin is too thin has been tossed around since Kate Moss made her modelling debut 20 years ago, ushering in an era of “heroin chic”. This style was a reaction to the over glamorous and pretty trend of the ‘80s. Instead, it was seen as cool to look tired, vacant, starved, dirty and skinny. Some modelling scouts have even been seen waiting outside Sweden’s largest eating disorder clinic, trying to entice critically thin patients onto the runway. This is wrong on every single level possible. The clinic had to change when and where patients could take their daily walks around the grounds because the vulnerable girls kept getting
approached by scouts. One young girl had to get confined to a wheelchair half way through being interviewed by these harsh people. Why designers would want to display their clothes on unhealthy bodies is a question that I am still to find an answer too. The industry may argue that fashion shows are an opportunity for designers to display their clothes in the best way possible. They see the body as a canvas; a canvas that has no natural barriers and is there for the designer to control and manipulate however they see fit. They don’t want any form of curves interfering with the shape of their garments, but realistically, nobody in the actual world is curve-less. Surely designers would be praised and respected more if they could design clothes that fit numerous body shapes rather than bodies with no shape at all. A recent study has found that skinny models don’t sell products. When female consumers are exposed to images of thin and beautiful women they are more likely to use a defensive coping strategy to boost their selfesteem by denigrating the models. Another study reveals that most American women want to see a ban of size zero models used during fashion week. Thirty-one percent of the survey respondents stated the reason for this was because the models looked dangerously unhealthy, so it was unsafe to have them walking the runway. When asked what size
“My lips and fingers were blue because I was struggling to pump blood around my body.”
Fashion Article.indd 2
models women would rather see on the runway and in magazines, fifty-seven percent said size 14. So it’s clear to see that readers don’t want to see anorexic women, so why are these models still in such high demand and some going to ridiculous extremes to gain this unattractive look? A huge number of people disagree with the state that these models are in, but very little is being done about it. Abercrombie and Fitch CEO Mike Jeffries mentioned that he only wanted “attractive, thin” people to be wearing his clothing. Surely it is the consumers right to decide what clothing they want to purchase and wear, not the companies. It is people like this who are poisoning the minds of the younger generation into thinking that unless you are thin you are not attractive.
she was being treated, she left her job but the trauma still lives with her. “My modelling career lasted for three years and as a result, I’ve had anorexia for eight, and I’m still battling it today.” Sixty to seventy percent of people with eating disorders never fully recover. Can you even imagine how confusing and harmful it might be for an eating disordered teenager, trying to recover, to hear praise for her thin frame? I don’t think industries realize the impact that these advertisements can have on young girls aspiring to lose weight. Or maybe they do, and just don’t care. Using size 0 models for global campaigns is telling people that it is okay to look anorexic. Doctors have said that,
“You need to lose more weight. The look this year is anorexia.”
What I find shocking is that the businesses care more about their clothing lines and brands than they do about the health of the women who are actually making them rich. Georgina Wilkin was a model that was so ill she was close to death. “My lips and fingers were blue because I was so thin that my heart was struggling to pump blood around my body,” she quoted. “The make-up artists would have to disguise it with concealer.” This proves that people were well aware of the pain and suffering that went on, they just chose to cover it up, ignore it and carry on. Even though Georgina’s organs were failing she kept getting booked. After she realised how horrible
Fashion Article.indd 3
“Using more realistic body shapes will reduce the number of deaths caused by eating disorders.” A Glamour magazine survey showed that 61% of respondents felt ashamed of their hips, 64% felt embarrassed by their stomachs, while 72% were ashamed of their thighs. Maybe if more companies used the power of media to show that being healthy is the new thin, we wouldn’t have so many people struggling with body image.
over eating an apple. The industry put so much pressure on her the Associated Press told her, “You need to lose more weight. The look this year is anorexia.” Coco Rocha grew older and wiser she realised how wrong this was and wanted to try and stop this happening to any other child models. In October 2013 she was successful in pushing the new law forward that children under the age of 16 will have much more protection in the form of; a designated person to monitor safety, a financial trust, a paediatric nurse and educational requirements. Although this will help the safety and health of children in the industry a lot more needs to be done to protect vulnerable models over the age of 16. Israel has got the right idea and has now banned models with a BMI lower than 18.5. This is made with well intentions as enforcing legislations creates a solid framework for changes to body image to be made. In reality though, the problems may lie much deeper as eating disorders and body image are much beyond a number. Although it is a good start, other countries should follow with additional changes. Ideas such as healthy eating and exercise courses would ensure that models are taught how to be healthy and monitored regularly. Also having a variety of different shapes and sizes of models would teach females that it is possible to be more than one shape and still be attractive and successful.
The debate on whether or not it is acceptable to have stick thin models is Coco Rocha is a 25 year old something that has been ongoing for a model that started her career at the number of years. Slowly but surely more young age of 15. Being young and things are being put into place to reduce vulnerable she started losing weight this but still nowhere near enough. If we immediately and after going to Singapore want to improve the health of models and she lost ten pounds in six weeks. She the younger generation then something then returned to the U.S. and was in needs to be done, before it’s too late. such a fragile state she beat herself up
Marks & Spencer Limited Collection Cami and Knicker GBP 16.00
George at ASDA Mesh Panel Pastel Pink Top GBP 14.00
Internacionale Nude and Mint Rouched Scarf GBP 5.99
Marks & Spencer Limited Edition Embroidery Non Pad Bra, 2 Piece Set, Soft Yellow GBP 16.00
Quiz Light Green Jeans GBP 29.99
Dune Appoint GBP 69.00
Dune Dalley GBP 69.00 Marks & Spencer Autograph Lace Skirt GBP 59.00
Product Page - Perfect Pastel .indd 1
Cut Out Dress, £60
It’s the girl at the party with the radiant smile, the one at the bar batting her lashes and the woman at the office glowing with confidence. She’s got style, she’s got grace, she’s a lady and she’s blaming Blush.
Aine wears: Black Wool/Leather Jacket, £65,. Red Plunge Neck Dress, £4 5. Dawn wears: Cream Wool/Leather Jacket, £60. Feather Graphic Top, £37. Tie Dye Skirt,
£37 01/05/2014 12:15
The Stylist: Adbusola Fashade The Photographer: David Mitchell The Models: Dawn Ryan and Aine Donnelly The Gorgeous Garments: Blush Boutique, Aberdeen
GONE IN A NEW YORK MINUTE How New York is shaking up the Fashion world - one season at at time.
With recent announcements that New
York Fashion Week is to be re-structured to achieve a more effective schedule, do away with “non-essential” shows and take measures to combat the ever-distracting crowds - the questions around the events, their attendees and their new purpose have never been more potent. Fashion weeks are a long established essential in the industry, traditionally veiled with secrecy, only engaging with the very best of the industry and certainly not involving the general public. Few things are permanent in an ever-changing industry, but fashion weeks looked set in their perfectly timed ways; the crème de la crème of the industry are personally invited to a secret show in the four most fashionable cities in the world – Paris, Milan, New York and London – where they watch designers’ collections showcased and their ideas brought to life in front of their exclusive audience. Then, after allowing the suspense to build for a few months, the
chosen few are finally allowed to share their experience, the clothes and the drama of the event with the public, in perfect sequence with the clothing becoming available to order from the fashion houses. They were exclusive, expensive and hugely anticipated. Fashion Weeks were the starting point for trends which would then slowly, very slowly, filter their way from the designer showrooms to the high street. Recent years, however, have seen this age-old tradition change, and with it has emerged the debate of exclusivity versus mass consumption. The Fashion Industry is, by its very nature, constantly evolving. With the cyclical nature of trends, the change of seasons and comings and goings of the latest fads, it would be unnatural to have it any other way. In today’s society, due to the evolving way companies interact with the public, mainly thanks to new technologies, fashion has opened its doors to those who may have previously been left on the outside, hoping for a way
in. With some designers streaming their runway shows live online, models posting Instagram pictures from backstage and bloggers finding their way to the F-Row, and then tweeting about it, has all the excitement gone from Fashion Weeks? Or has it fuelled the public’s desire to know just what is going on behind closed doors? Is this simply another evolution of the industry in a more interactive society? Or is this fashion’s demise? Different designers will approach the showing of their garments in different ways. Some aiming to communicate political and environmental statements, like Vivienne Westwood, while others compete for the most extravagant show; Chanel are never afraid of going the extra mile. Likewise, some designers have encouraged and welcomed the new look fashion weeks, whereas others have reverted back to keeping their shows exclusive and elusive. Burberry have been a great ambassador freeing up their shows and sharing it globally as it is happening.
Their S/S 2014 was recorded at LFW using 14 different iPhone 5s which were stationed around the venue, the footage was then cut together to form a 15 minute video that posted online. The iPhones were also streaming live to billboards, Burberry stores and to social media platforms such as Facebook and Vine. This method makes fashion shows a more realistic, and some may argue, more effective way of communicating with the public. The designers are cutting out the middle man and getting straight to their clients, involving them in the stories and experiences of the garments that they hope they will buy. On the other hand, Oscar de la Renta seemed to change his mind rather drastically between seasons, with his A/W 2013 show being shown twice, back to back, to ensure that everyone could see it. There were a great number of people in attendance, filling the 316 seater room twice over. However, the
style blog which started as a hobby but has now become a global phenomenon. Reams of Bloggers, It Girls and Celebrities now descend upon Fashion Weeks, each with their own style and all waiting to be photographed by the press outside the venues. Is this not a strange world when people go to see a show and instead look at the audience as opposed to the spectacle unfolding before their eyes? When we go to see the world's greatest designer's showcase the next big thing and instead are looking at so and so's daughter prancing about in last month’s River Island and a fedora outside? By letting the audience into the shows the audience have, in some ways, become the show. Bloggers on the F-Row, rubbing shoulders with fashion greats such as Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington and Andre Leon Tally. These people have become attractive to
New York are leading the way with
revamping Fashion Week. Come A/W 2014 there will be less space for the audience, in the hope of reducing the crowds and allowing the journalists, buyers and industry professionals to do their jobs. It will be much more difficult for the public to get tickets after a 20% cut in availability in order to only have those “of value to the designer” in attendance. However, while the doors may be closed the internet will still be open and offers a chance for the public to see the clothing streamed live online. This seems to be a positive and much needed step forward, not backward, for the industry. The once prestigious NYFW has become the “circus” of the industry over recent years, with its hectic atmosphere attracting more attention than the clothing and tarnishing its glorious reputation. It would appear then, that we, the public, can
“It’s important [for certain industry professionals] to look at the clothes and see them. They shouldn’t have to go through 30,000 people, and 10,000 who are trying to take pictures of all of those people who are totally unrelated to the clothes.” Oscar De La Renta following season, the designer made the decision to greatly reduce the number of invitations, opting for one showing at a 350 seater venue. In an interview with Women's Wear Daily, De La Renta gave his views on the changes in Fashion Weeks: “It’s important [for certain industry professionals] to look at the clothes and see them. They shouldn’t have to go through 30,000 people, and 10,000 who are trying to take pictures of all of those people who are totally unrelated to the clothes.” But who is right – those who let their followers into their world? Or those who uphold the barricades around the industry?
odern advances in technology have brought about a shift in attention, they have also encourage a look away from the catwalks and to the everyday people. Street Style is now a noted influential factor in trend forecasting and is considered a worthy platform through which to communicate. Take ‘The Sartorialist’ for example, a street
brands, a useful marketing tool. Get them to say your name when asked what they are wearing and watch the sales soar. But surely the focus should be on the designer who is showcasing? We, the public, are being told what to wear by people with no experience in the industry. People who have been invited in because someone liked what they wore and it went viral. Instead of the fashion elite, who know fashion, who make fashion, who are fashion. This phenomenon is referred to as the “circus” – where people are peacock-ing for attention from the press, going to the shows simply to get themselves seen and taking away from the real reason everyone is there. Street style is brilliant form of communicating fashion, bloggers have made fashion more accessible and have given others confidence to try different things. However, should we really be allowing them to take over something as sacred as our fashion weeks?
expect certain designers to draw back from the circuses and piles of invitations, that they will return to their mysterious and alluring presentations and that the goal of being F-Row will once again be something with perhaps more meaning. While some designers will no doubt continue to embrace the social platform that their brand will be projected onto, how long will this last? Will they soon be calling back the glossy magazines for exclusive features? Or will they continue to take the modern approach and leave the traditions of fashion in the past? It is unclear, as of yet, what the future holds for the doors of fashion weeks, but a rift between different visions will no doubt mean that each designer will have their own opinion. Me? I'm biding my time before I get an envelope from one of the greats and a glimps of the back of Anna Wintour's famed bob, presiding over the show as only she can. WORDS - EMILY GRAHAM
Anna Wintour a YouTuber needs your seat
ike many others in this internet obsessed world, I find myself glued to YouTube for hours on end however I am not searching for the generic ‘epic fails’ or ‘funny animals’ to amuse myself; I aim to fuel my fashion obsessed life by seeking out like-minded people who create content which has bagged them seats at Fashion Week and prestigious events across the globe. May I introduce you to the ‘YouTube Guru’ defined to be, “young women, interested in fashion and beauty documenting their fashion life through video.” As I have been known to dedicate at least two hours of my day to my increasingly long list of
‘YouTube Gurus’ and with the realisation that I take inspiration from them over the glossy pages of Vogue, I felt that there was a need to research why this vlogging phenomenon, in some cases, has taken over from high powered magazines and somehow given the people behind the lens the ability to jump into an industry which would normally be associated with making endless cups of tea and interning for nothing short of a bus ticket. Yet they have been able to achieve the ability to be within arm’s reach of Anna Wintour during Fashion Week which began from the comfort of their own home. Popular Gurus Beautycrush, Lulutrixabelle, SoTotallyVlog, ItsJudyTime and Dulce Candy to name but a few, are all dubbed to be the next generation of fashion influencers. They have all entered into the industry by turning themselves into brands via their online presence, delivering fashion
Fashion Article Sally Murning.indd 2
information which has been devoured by all. Although fashion has mostly been subject to expert opinions, we are all becoming increasingly aware of brand marketing strategies and in recent years have turned to the online vlogging community to answer our questions regarding various products,
“fashion magazines are far from obsolete but they finally have stiff competition!” services and brands as we seek a more realistic impression. Although items may be acquired by working alongside well-known brands the opinions that are given are more often than not the definitive truth, if a product is not up to scratch it will be said, unlike in magazines where they are bound into a contract to deliver a review which is sprinkled with roses. Don’t get me wrong, prestigious fashion magazines are far from obsolete but they finally have stiff competition! ‘YouTube Gurus’ as brands would have been deemed an unlikely concept no more than two years ago but they seem to have influenced the fashion industry more than just being brands, many would believe that they have become the modern version of fashion content editors. They have an abundance to think about including; production quality, editorial strategy and affiliate programmes in order to gain a threshold on the web, much the same as editors working for the likes of Vogue and Elle today. ‘YouTube Gurus’ have managed to bag themselves work experience, jobs, internship opportunities and seats in the FROW (front row to you and I) by putting themselves out there into the industry through producing videos which started off as a mere hobby. Their channels have now become an online CV and interview, without the actual hassle and emotional stress which would normally be associated with applications
and attending interviews, as brands are requesting to work alongside these Gurus based on watching their content. Lucy Rance, also known as Lulutrixabelle, has worked alongside ASOS Fashion Insider, Motel Rocks and Urban Outfitters as a stylist and model as well as producing behind the scenes footage for the Clothes Show Live with personalities such as Henry Holland and super blogger Liberty London Girl. However the success of YouTubers does not end there as Lexi from SoTotallyVlog landed her dream job in fashion working alongside Grazia. Styling garments through a dedicated fashion YouTube channel called FashTag, a partnered YouTube channel working with the team from Grazia. Lexi’s success was extended by attending various Fashion Shows across London last year which she could share with not only her own following but Grazia’s as well. Sammi from the BeautyCrush started her channel as an outlet to express her love of fashion and beauty and has managed to turn it into a job which she loves. Graduating from a degree in styling and makeup artistry meant the realisation that the industry was almost impossible to get into and following rejection after rejection she focused all of her energy on her channel. Over one million subbies later and landing countless experiences as an assistant stylist with Missguided (jetting all over the world) she has finally managed to break into the
“brands have now realised the importance of YouTubers” industry through none other than YouTube itself. It’sJudyTime has worked with major beauty brands including L’Oreal, Revlon and Smashbox to the point that these brands actually depend on her channel to influence their key target audience. Having researched the relationship between brands, Youtubers and viewers I have become increasingly aware that brands have
now realised the importance of Youtubers across all subject areas and have used them in a multitude of ways in order to forward their brand and products to a wider target audience, so much so that they have diversified their business to enable a YouTube platform for themselves. High end brands such as Chanel, Burberry, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton and Prada (although the list is endless) have adopted this online platform providing their audience with: fashion films produced by the likes of Karl Lagerfield for Chanel; makeup tutorials by industry professionals; behind the scenes footage of every aspect of the brand; exclusive interviews with celebrities, fellow YouTubers and industry officials; live runway footage of shows; How To videos. These are just some of the subject areas which have been adopted in order to reach the Youtube obsessed section of their target market. Vogue adopted this concept and named the sub section of the brand Vogue.TV incorporating similar content as mentioned above as they wanted to make the magazine more accessible for a wider audience and believed that making a personal connection with their followers through YouTube would be the best possible way. They even incorporated Dulce Candy, a self acclaimed fashion and beauty Guru, into their streaming on Vogue’s Fashion Night Out in Los Angeles as the YouTuber managed to fit into their ethos perfectly due to her attendance at Fashion Week shows (front row I may add) in London, New York and Paris all thanks to her presence on YouTube. Not only do the most successful YouTubers gain opportunities like the ones I outline above but no matter the size of following, they aren’t rejected from getting involved and influencing the industry. Many are invited to PR events with brands such as Selfridges, Primark, GOGO Philips, New
Look and Topshop in order to get sneak previews into upcoming collections to share with their followers as well as indulging in a cocktail or two, or maybe three. #AccessallASOS is the perfect example of a brand connecting with YouTubers allowing them to influence their vast following by gaining unprecedented access to all things ASOS. The privileges include being the first to know about new collections, inspirations and adventures, opportunities to visit ASOS HQ, invites to exclusive events and they save the best until last…freebies and discounts! Who wouldn’t want to be a part of this elite crew? ASOS have managed to build a communicative relationship with the YouTubers which
Fashion Article Sally Murning.indd 3
ultimately influences their sales and have given them ample opportunities to engage with not only a fashion giant but professionals throughout all aspects of the industry. I fully realise, and I assume you are in a similar position that ‘YouTube Gurus’ will be unlikely candidates to take over from Anna Wintour in her prestigious seat in the Front Row of multiple shows across Fashion Weeks all over the world but it is time that the fashion industry realises that our fashion influences are changing due to increased marketing and overall media advertising. We no longer believe what brands are communicating about their products so instead we turn to ‘YouTube Gurus’ to gain the knowledge we are seeking. The industry is slowly making changes and accepting new avenues for brand and product awareness as well as recognising ‘YouTube Gurus’ as
reliable sources of information. As brands have been recognised to create job roles for popular bloggers in recent times, who knows what the industry holds in the future for the much loved Gurus we perpetually follow (or stalk) on a daily basis.
Sally Murning Blogger over at www.stylepostcode.blogspot.com and self confessed YouTube junkie.
Pictures above : Anna Wintour front row at Fashion Week; London Fashion Week banner; ‘YouTube Guru’ Lucy Rance from Lulutrixabelle working alongside Henry Holland.
GLAM ROCK Rock out this season with a bit of sparkle. Mix up textures and colours to create the ultimate glam rock look - all from your favourite high street stores.
STYLING - HEATHER MORTON & CHRISTINA KRAJEWSKI // HAIR - HEATHER MORTON & CHRISTINA KRAJEWSKI PHOTOGRAPHER - KATE KULESZA // MODEL - GILLIAN LESLIE // MAKE UP - GILLIAN LESLIE
TOPSHOP Necklace // TOPSHOP Bralet TOPSHOP Jeans // H&M Rings
TOPSHOP Jacket // TOPSHOP Necklace TOPSHOP Bralet // TOPSHOP Jeans TOPSHOP Platform Heels
MISS SELFRIDGE Necklace // TOPSHOP Jacket
BREAKING IN T
ell us a bit about yourself and your career so far. What path did you take to become a fashion stylist?
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW - WITH LONDON STYLIST EMILY CLAY BY GRACE ARTHUR
mily has a hectic life down in London, and we weren’t able to meet. Instead we chose to conduct this interview via Facebook. Emily is currently assisting Vogue’s Contributing Editor and Freelance Stylist, and I cannot thank her enough for taking the time out to do this interview. The journey of a young tomboy in a baggy t-shirt who would choose sport over dressing up, to the success driven stylist working with Vogue’s ‘one to watch’ Kolfinna Kristófersdóttir is incredible. Emily shares her experiences working with up and coming models, and interning with magazines such as Cosmopolitan and Glamour. Since taking this interview Emily has been offered a job as the new Fashion Assistant at Tatler Magazine. I would like to congratulate her on this wonderful achievement, and wish her every success. After reading this interview I am sure you too will see why Emily was so deserving of this job. It is clear that Emily has achieved all that she has through hard work and commitment.
PHOTOGRAPHER: HANNAH HILLIER MODEL: STELLA, NEXT STYLIST: EMILY CLAY
I haven’t always loved Fashion. Ask most people in the industry and they’ll tell you how they picked up their mother’s copy of Vogue at the age of 5. At that age, most of my friends were boys; baggy t-shirts were my go to staple and I enjoyed sport rather than dressing up. I guess it wasn’t until about the age of 14 I realised that guys wouldn’t fancy me unless I put on a dress. With a bit of trial and error, learning from my glamorous twin best friends (who had ridiculously mature wardrobes for 15 year olds), and studying design at GCSE and A-level, I started to realise I was actually pretty good at this. I went on to study Fashion Promotion at Nottingham Trent University, during which time I studied in New York for six months and committed to a number of internships in London, and it was here that I discovered the magic of magazines. One of the girls I met along the way advised me to start carrying out my own test shoots (where a group of creatives collaborate for free in order to build each other’s portfolios) so I did. I started to-ing and fro-ing between Nottingham and London just to get my portfolio going. As soon as I had enough of my own styling editorials, I set up a professional website, and from here I started to get a little work.
What is the reality of being a stylist, is it as glamorous as people imagine? It’s certainly not glamorous like it’s made out to be in the movies; long hours, and I mean horrendously long, to the point where sleep deprivation is a given, usually little pay for huge amounts of work and often dealing with difficult people. But, of course, the fun and creativity, working with the world’s most beautiful clothes, meeting incredibly interesting people and travelling all over the world are what gives it its appeal.
You’ve worked with up and coming and established models from NEXT Model Management and Elite. How easy is it to manage them on a shoot?
“As soon as I’m immersed back into the crazy fashion world, my heart is stolen.”
5 FINAL ARTICLE.indd 2
If I’m honest, most of the models I’ve met have all been super lovely, and a fair few are now friends. They’re getting a lot younger though, and their innocence is becoming more extreme, so it’s harder to expect them to be able to whip off their clothes in front of anyone. Instead you have to try to accommodate their insecurities and youth. Occasionally, you’ll get the fussy or demanding one, but I guess that’s like any job. You may not always love the people you work alongside, generally though, I do.
“Patience, hard-work and determination. Make yourself indispensable” How do you prepare for a new fashion shoot? Depends on the type of shoot it is, and whether I’m styling or assisting… but in general it involves a lot of administrative work and organising. From choosing models and photographers, booking flights (if necessary), seeking inspiration, researching seasonal trends, calling in clothes from a range, or PR brands and packing suitcases.
Where do you find your inspiration? I know it’s a cliché, but everywhere. For me, travelling is the ultimate. Seeing new cultures, landscapes, people and experiences, I went on holiday to Bali in the summer, I tell you now, one day I’m going to do a shoot out there, it’s stunning. My friends and family can often inspire me too, whether its something they wear, say or do. Music is another passion of mine, and skiing is also a big part of my life… sometimes I dream about living on the slopes, but as soon as I’m immersed back into the crazy fashion world, my heart is stolen.
What has been the highlight of your career so far? Last year, I worked with model, Kolfinna Kristófersdóttir. She was a new face at the time, having just moved from Iceland to London and we were shooting to build her portfolio with NEXT Model Management. The images we shot were used by her agency, and the next thing we knew she was the campaign girl for Topshop, exclusive for Alexander Wang, and all over the runway. She was everywhere. Vogue Supplement then did a page on ‘ones to watch’ featuring Kolfinna, the image they printed was our very own. I guess to date, that was pretty damn cool.
You have interned at companies such as Cosmopolitan, Glamour, British Vogue and GQ India. What was your most memorable moment as an intern? Assisting Fashion Director, Lucinda Chambers, on a shoot. She’s one of the most current and renowned stylists at the moment, and the fact that I was on set, seeing her in action was insane. In general though, I’ve made some genuine friends along the way, and being able to work with people you love on a day-to-day basis is always pretty sweet.
Did working on fashion magazines alter the way you dress, or open your eyes to any new brands? Whether you work at a magazine or with a freelance stylist you will always learn new brands, particularly with blogs and the Internet I’m finding new brands and inspiration everyday. My style changes depending on the moment I’m living in, and I guess, yes, the people and places around me influence my taste. Generally I stick to my route, comfy/classic pieces with an old school edge. Recently, I’ve become quite the tomboy, mainly because the team I work with right now live in trainers and sweaters – it’s a comfy way to live.
Did you find it difficult to secure an internship in the fashion magazine industry? The first internship is always difficult to get. Not knowing the right people, who to contact and what to say are frustrating obstacles. Once you get your first one (whether it’s by who you know or sheer persistence) you instantly learn about the industry, who’s who and which direction you want to go. From here, as long as you’re determined, opportunities will come. It’s only difficult if you’re not committed. Patience, hardwork and determination. Make yourself indispensable. If I’m honest, I’m still breaking in – every now again you just have to take a deep breath, it will all be worth it in the end, right?!
What are your plans for the future? Right now I’m assisting Vogue’s Contributing Editor and Freelance Stylist, Jane How, so I’d like to continue with this for a bit whilst continuing to carry out my own test shoots when I get the chance. I’m currently looking for a house to move into with a few friends, having only recently moved to London. I guess the next year (or 4!) will be about trial and error, taking things as they come and making the most of every opportunity. Who knows where I’ll be, but I guess that’s the fun.
PHOTOGRAPHER: HANNAH HILLIER MODEL: OLGA, NEXT STYLIST: EMILY CLAY
What trends in styling are you seeing right now? It’s just been the SS14 fashion week so everyone’s compiling new ideas for the next year’s editorials. Trends generally get regurgitated a lot so it’s about finding new ways to capture them. ‘Sport luxe’ is a constant favourite, and a trend that is just getting stronger - this season the logo was brought to centre stage. It’s gone from finding an old Nike sweater in a vintage shop to designers turning them into luxury items. Ashish branded his collection with Coca Cola, whilst Sister by Sibling boasted heavy font. Consequently stylists have been combining the two. Jane How, with whom I am currently working, did an amazing editorial called Rave New World for Vogue, where she matched a branded Stussy sweater with a pair of Mary Katrantzou printed trousers.
5 FINAL ARTICLE.indd 3
To see more visit: http://www.emilyclay.co.uk
Denim Daze... A tasteful take on effortlessly chic denim and blouses photographed by: dean gray worn by: shelby guertin, brittany mohns & angela bellini-rutledge
CREAM BLOUSE: HM & DENIM: LEVIS FOOTWEAR: PRIMARK GOLD SHIRT: VINTAGE & DENIM: LEVIS FOOTWEAR: PRIMARK
CREAM BLOUSE: HM & DENIM: LEVIS FOOTWEAR:PRIMARK GOLD SHIRT: VINTAGE & DENIM: LEVIS FOOTWEAR: PRIMARK
ACCESSORIES: ASOS HALTER TOP: VINTAGE FAUX LEATHER PANTS: TOPSHOP
Final Spread .indd 2
To Live and Die for your Sneakers by Collins Chiedu
It’s four o’clock on a cold winter morning in front of the Lafayette Square Mall in Indianapolis, and some two hundred youths are lined up outside waiting for the mall’s opening hours. Some of them have journeyed from as far as Japan and have camped outside in freezing temperatures for four days, securing their position by pitching their tents and locking lawn chairs on the sidewalks close to the mall. Sensing danger, the mall administrators deploy security and the police to maintain order, but this was not enough to contain the chaos that ensued as soon as the mall open for the day’s business.
court and the introduction of the Air Jordans by Nike in the late eighties that knocked the sneaker market off its feet. Alex Wang breaks it down like this, “Air Jordans heralded the creation of visionary designs and use of luxury materials in basketball shoes and was quickly adopted as an icon of flamboyant lifestyle by rappers who in turn passed it down to their fans.” Ever since then, there has been an unprecedented desire and addictive attraction by a growing legion of followers who are keen on original, out of stock, hardto-find sneakers.
The two major athletic shoe companies - Nike Hysteria and confusion reminiscent of a and Adidas, sensing the quest for exclusive clash between opposing football hooligan sneakers soon began tapping into the market groups develops as glass doors are shattered by creating intricate niche marketing schemes and people trampled upon, leading to such as bringing back the most sought casualties. This scenario was not limited to after catalogue items as top retro exclusives Indianapolis alone as across the country, released in limited quantities. This is in itself altercations broke out at shopping centres. is a new concept for billion dollar companies America watched in disbelief through the to hold on production just to create a buzz various news channels as people were literally and keep sneaker fiends in constant need for dying to get their hands on a pair of the Air limited edition madness. The companies have Jordan XI release. What appeared abnormal notched up their savvy marketing scheme and incomprehensible to the general even further by collaborating with popular populace represents normalcy to the average athletes such as Lebron James and influential ‘Sneakerhead’. Despite differences in their age, Hip Hop artists such as Kanye West to gender, ethnicity and social status, there is a increase their brand reach and image within burgeoning group of aficionados who hinge the sneaker subculture. their sense of identity, self worth and self esteem on the exclusivity of the trainers they Apart from the chaos created by such limited editions, it also has given rise to a lucrative wear or merely possess. reseller market with some special editions This tight knit global community share that retailed for $200 on release going on to their obsession and fascination for hard-tosell for $2000 on eBay a few weeks later. The get, exclusive sneakers which they collect, record purchase by a sneakerhead remains an and which they, like precious works of original black and gold ‘Air Jordan 1’ which art, meticulously store and treasure. The is estimated to have cost a Japanese collector sneakerhead phenomenon has been gaining the whooping sum of $26,000. In fact, traction in recent years with websites, Steve Mullholand who runs Sole collector magazines, reality shows, radio shoes, blogs magazine reckons that much like a rare coin, and exhibitions dedicated to this 26 million a hard-to-find pair of vintage sneakers in dollar industry. As Andre Speed who runs good condition can be a better investment a speciality sneaker store explains, “The than blue chip stock. Nowadays, teenagers sneaker scene is on fire and has developed as young as fourteen hunt for on demand into a subculture with its own behaviour sneakers only to resell them at astronomical patterns, ethics, rituals and institutions prices. exclusive to its members.” DJ Clark Kent who is considered a legend Although the genesis of the sneaker culture among sneakerheads and who started with could be traced to the streets of New York hunting sneakers three decades ago, and now in the late seventies with the advent of Hip owns about three thousand pairs explains, Hop, it was undoubtedly basketball especially “somebody figured out that there’s money Michael Jordan with his extraordinary feat on to be made from sneakers because of the
MAGAZINE article final.indd 2
hype and nowadays, these kids are not about the culture but the glory of the sale.” Avid sneakerheads have been irked by what they term ‘the commercialisation of their beloved culture’ by the big shoe corporations and reckon that it goes against the very tenets of the sneaker culture. “It is appalling to see a culture which was born out of deprivation and resistance being hijacked by the high and mighty. Now we sheepishly patronise them en masse, thereby helping them fatten their pockets,” notes DJ Clark Kent. There is a dangerous dimension to this sneaker-for-profit phenomenon. In recent years, there has been reports of violent crime connected to the sneaker culture, ranging from gangs hanging around stores on release dates to rob sneakerheads of their newly coveted shoes at gun point, to actual murders linked to sneaker-jacking. The backlash that accompanied these crimes have led to some changes instigated by stakeholders in the sneaker culture. Most importantly, the brands are shying away from the release of limited editions and retro exclusives in physical stores and have taken them online to avoid horrendous scenes associated with releases. As a matter of fact, the internet which allows collectors to buy, sell, and talk about sneakers has been pivotal in preaching sanity through social media platforms such as Sneakerhead Meme on Facebook,which addresses the vices akin to the culture, and other dedicated websites such as Sole Collector and Nike Talk which advise sneakerheads against excessive expenditure and sneaker addiction. So what pushes these sneaker addicts to go out of their way to acquire exclusive shoes, and in the process form a subculture community complete with their own lingo, codes and signs? “I have no idea why people collect stamps but I don’t knock them for it. Well since the rest of the people outside the culture think we are crazy, we just stick with and identify with people within the sneakerhead scene because we are wired the same,” says Alex Wang, creative director of Sole Collector, a bimonthly guide to sneakerhead culture. “Sneakerheads are a different breed. Any sane person only needs at the most three pairs of shoes at the same time but sneakerheads have them in their hundreds,” Wang further adds.
It is left to be seen if this sneaker madness will continue to spread its dragnet or if the voice of reason will triumph, and sneakerheads start to realise that at the end only the shoe companies smile to the bank. Martin Hyza, a sneakerhead from Prague, Czechs Republic reckons that, “ The sneaker craze has reached its saturation point and that slowly but surely, sneakerheads are starting to figure out that it is all about creating your own style and identity without breaking the bank.” Wang on the other hand believes that the sneaker culture is not going anywhere soon. “As long as people have feet, they are going to have shoes. Walking about barefoot is not going to come back into style,” he proclaims.
“I have no idea why people collect stamps but I don’t knock them for it. Well since the rest of the people outside the culture think we are crazy, we just stick and identify with people within the sneakerhead scene because we are wired the same.”
Lori Lobenstine, founder of Female Sneaker Feind sums it up this way, “After all simply defined, sneakers are footwear. Whether adding style to an outfit, status to a wardrobe, or a value to a collection, shoes are part of the wearer’s individuality. An expression of their personal tastes and character.” She further adds, “the mix of popular culture, nostalgia, technology and disposable income will continue to push the fascination and obsession for sneakers.” As the unofficial creed of sneakerheads goes, your sneakers are a reflection of you, and you either go big or go home.
$26,000 - The record amount paid by a sneakerhead for a pair of sneakers. DJ Clark Kent - Known among sneakerheads as the person that owns the largest sneaker collection.
“The sneaker culture is on fire and has evolved into a subculture with its own ethics, behaviour patterns, rituals and institutions exclusive to its members.”
MAGAZINE article final.indd 3
Nike Air Force 1 - The best selling sneaker with a total of 15 million pairs sold in a year. Prague, Czech Republic - The city with the fastest growing sneakerhead scene.
An exploration into cultural significance of the menswear trend of going without socks words by Kieran McKenzie
You don’t have to be an amatuer foot enthusiast to be aware of the fact that going ‘sans sock’ is the biggest threat to standardised taste in men’s fashion since the days of scandal of being seen without a hat covering your hair. If you still buy physical magazines, because you know, a magazine on your iPad will never feel as good as that £3.99 GQ, pick up and flick through any random fashion magazine and the models won’t be wearing socks. Check the runways of the world, keep your eyes close to the catwalks: no socks. Go to any high street or designer online store and mostly the stylist won’t have cared about covering the models’ ankles either. Socks have become the new gloves: if you wear them it is done so on purpose. The necessity of socks has been greatly diminished. To go sans socks is now the norm for the modern man. The look has become something that is deeply written into the set of rules governing how modern fashionable guys should look in this current day.
a bit too hysterical for being just a fashion faux pas. A man in a suit without socks is, as most traditional styles guides will tell you, not appropriate. Socks seem to be a token of integrity: a grounded man lays his foundations with the fabric between the leather he walks in and his feet. Can a man that chooses not to wear socks really be all that trustworthy? Would you trust the advice and decisions of your next car salesman, or real estate agent if they were without socks? There is a clever quotation by Browne that can be found in a lot of articles on this topic: “ankle is the new male cleavage.” Even though Browne leaves us with the question of what exactly the old cleavage was before the ankle, his comment spices up the discussion with the right amount of sexual fetishisation that is required. Why show off naked skin if not for seduction? One could assume that Thom Browne was just having fun provoking the fashion circus by poking at their long-held assumptions, making writers and commentators go nuts about something so easily done and easily replicated. However, street fashion has proved this assumption wrong. Browne set a precedent. Now it’s not just boat shoes or loafers: basically every shoe in fashion is now worn sockless. The male appearance in Thom Browne’s aesthetic is a sockless guy. If socks are used then they are part of the look. Bare skin, rather than socks, becomes the status quo to be altered. Any coverage is deliberate - a stylistic choice. The designer is building a style on a naked body. So every piece of fabric is part of the look a designer is seeking.
The heteronormative matrix (the body of lifestyle norms that people fall into two distinct and complementary genders with natural roles in life) and our entire gender performance are deeply written into the way we dress. While it is not a big deal for a girl to go without socks (it might even be considered feminine), a guy has to have a good reason for being without the fabric that protects his ankles from being seen by the world. The materialistic and conventional bourgeois ideologies tell men to wear socks. A man that shows his feet, unless the climate allows no other option, is not a man anymore. He crosses the line into femininity, or so we are made to believe. Observer and commentator of what fashion wearers are communicating on the streets I remember when the whole no-socks thing of New York for The New York Times, became a big deal on fashion blogs like Bill Cunningham, visited the topic of Scott Schuman’s ‘The Sartorialist’. Mainly sans socks in ‘Darned if They Do’ in June spotted in Italy, gentlemen in suits with 2013. Cunningham stated that, “as the hot bare ankles turned the street style diaries weather comes, I think it’s a trend that’s into a community of ankle appreciation in going to develop outside of just men who the form websites such as f**kyeahnosocks. obviously have a great interest in dressing tumblr.com. While it wasn’t necessarily a nothing outrageous or outlandish, but just new thing in Italy to go all Miami Vice, the tweaking rather classic things to become a global attention these gentlemen received via language of a young generation. It’s a very online medias was, by contrast, entirely new. interesting sight to see this.” Cunningham acknowledged Browne as being the original The American designer Thom Browne was instigator of the trend of the rising trouser arguably the first to ban socks in the context cuff above the ankle. He stated that Browne of high fashion menswear. Around ten now stretches the cuff to the knee and years ago, his new tailoring in suits came questions whether or not people will adapt with a little sweet rebellion: in every public this style or just stop at above the ankle. appearance - his models’ ankles were bare. Those tiny flashes of skin made people go The greatest form of self-expression of crazy and comments on the topic seemed publicly displaying your ankles comes from
when the wearer purposely rolls the trousers cuff rather than wears a shorter pair of trousers. This is a testimony that the styling decision is a conscious and steadfast one. After an observation of footwear and outfits worn by men in a London restaurant, fashion designer Oliver Spencer believes that there is a distinct lack of synergy between apparel and footwear choices. Footwear choice is obviously an afterthought for many men despite shoes being crucial to any fashion look. Footwear choice communicates a huge amount of insight to onlookers. It tells them whether or not you invest in strong foundations and opt for comfort or style. Not only this, but footwear choice is often the first thing that we notice about people. if first impressions are lasting then isn’t footwear everything? Sans socks sends a message of your adventurous, playful side. To go sans socks is to attract even greater and interest to your footwear choice. That mere glimpse of flesh demands attention from onlookers. I’m neither trying to defend this style, nor do I want to give advice on how to do it (f**kyeahnosocks.tumblr.com provides cleaning and care advice as well as some limited style advice). I would rather talk about the discursive meaning of it, the sex appeal it brings into men’s fashion, the sweet rebellion it inherits. The very vulnerability, the almost gender-bending leap being without socks takes into femininity, and adds new flavour to men’s fashion. More than the style itself is the reaction to it that mirrors how easy it can be to blow off a whole gender system based on binary assumptions. Take away one little stone in the foundation and the whole building crashes. Fine feathers make fine birds; through and on the edge of fashion, gender is finally about to be torn down. But the sans-sock man is a topic that, despite its provocative potential, is mostly discussed in a manner that is old fashioned, if not outright boring. The sex appeal of bare male feet in shoes is a matter of taste and personal style, not gender borders. After all, it is up to you to wear socks or not. If I had to choose though, I’d always go for the sans socks version of you.
“Ankle is the new male cleavage.”
Stylist Tip: Pair a modern patterned shirt with a statement bow tie for an up-to-date take on the classic Gentleman’s attire.
Debenhams // £16
Debenhams // £16
Debenhams // £16
Product page.indd 1
Heatons // £13
River Island // £65
Primark // £10
Autograph Velvet Blazer £99 // Velvet Bow and Square Pocket Dinner Set £19.50 // Dinner Shirt £35 // Dinner Trousers £69 // Black Patent Shoes £59.50 // All Marks & Spencer
Autograph Velvet Bow & Pocket Square Set £19.50 // Dinner Shirt £35 // Autograph Dinner Trousers £69 // Plain Brace £19.50 // All Marks & Spencer
Add these Modern Classics to your wardrobe for instant sophistication and style.
The Modern Gentleman
Models from left: Josh Barr, Jay Celino, Jennifer Mcdonald, Tessa Stanley Wearing: Josh, Vintage shirt // Jay, Prada Suit // Jennifer, Vintage sequined overcoat // Tessa, Stylistâ€™s own Fashion Spread.indd 2
I Love The Nightlife I’ve Got To Boogie On This Disco’Round Bringing Back that Funky Flare
Models from left: Lewis Brown. Hannah Roberston, Noor Iyazz Wearing: Lewis, Model’s own // Hannah, Hermes scarf // Noor, Stylist’s own
Fashion Spread.indd 3
Wearing: Hannah, Michael Kors // Tessa, Stylist’s own // Jennifer, Stylist’s own // Noor, Vintage dress
Fashion Spread.indd 4
Stylist: Anna Sutherland // Photographer: Richard Gatson // Make up: Jennifer Light // Hair: Caroline Lamb
Fashion Spread.indd 5
Wearing: Noor, Stylistâ€™s own vintage dress // Tessa, Vintage jumpsuit // Lewis, Modelâ€™s own // Hannah, Zara suit // Jennifer, Vintage dress
Fashion Spread.indd 6
Written by Christina Krajewski
FAKES ALWAYS A
by makers such as Chanel, Hermès or Fendi that becomes a popular bestseller’. Of course, once the bag becomes a best seller, it is no longer the current ‘IT’ bag as it is easily obtainable and anyone can get their hands on it. Starlets began the fascination over the ‘IT’ bag. Classic ‘IT’ bags such as the Louis Vuitton ‘Speedy’ was worn by Audrey Hepburn and the Hermès bag worn by Grace Kelly, has had fashion lovers FAKE - adjective lusting over beautifully crafted bags • not genuine; imitation or counterfeit: from the ‘50s. If you have a budget of she got on the plane with a fake passport over £500, some designer arm candy • a fake Cockney accent is certainly an option. However, most • (of a person) claiming to be something fashion conscious ladies out there don’t that one is not: a fake doctor have £500 to spend on every bag, or maybe even one! So there is the option The world of counterfeit goods has to go for something similar on the high cost the fashion industry over £5 billion street... or the option to get the bag they and resulted in the lost of a staggering are lusting over but at a seriously cut 400,000 jobs. The counterfeit or ‘fake’ price. Some fake goods are becoming industry is shockingly on the rise with increasingly harder to spot which could the demand for a designer look without be seen as a benefit to the buyer but the designer price tag increasing. not to the companies. If everyone and Fashion and cosmetics remain the anyone can have what at least looks like most prominent examples within the the real deal, this can greatly damage counterfeit industry. “There’s more the designer brand. money to be made in counterfeits An example of a luxury brand which than in drugs — and less exposure,” was hit hard by the counterfeit market investigator Kris Buckner, founder of is Burberry. Back in 2006, Burberry Investigative Consultants, a Los Angeles- was largely associated with a very based company that helps track down downmarket image and had a reputation counterfeiters. for the plaid print being on baseball caps and tracksuits, which screamed ARM CANDY tacky, a far cry from Burberry’s iconic The ‘IT’ bag is defined as ‘a brand or trench. Burberry’s luxury image had been type of high-priced designer handbag damaged by rip-offs of their classic print,
making the brand appear cheap and therefore unwanted.
IS IT REALLY WORTH IT?
Are counterfeit goods really worth the risk? Sure, you could get lucky and get a really good fake...but the chances are it will look more Bulberry than Mulberry and more Channel than Chanel. If you purchase any type of counterfeit goods, you are contributing to an illicit trade and a growing issue. The counterfeit trade earnings are estimated at around 650 billion dollars a year, while costing the fashion industry over $5 billion. In 2012 €1bn worth of counterfeit products were seized by the EU customs including 20,000 pairs of fake Christian Louboutin heels, shipped from China, which were seized in the U.S. by the border officers. If you do consider making a purchase of a counterfeit product, quality is something that should be seriously considered. There is a huge difference in price between the fake and real version for a reason. For example, a genuine Mulberry bag is made from premium leather and expert craftsmanship within the UK, in order to create a dream product which is highly desirable rather than a fake version, which would never be able to achieve the same finish or look.
Not only can fake products be poor quality and look cheap, but making a purchase of a fake product, can have
dangerous consequences. Wasting your money on a tacky bag may harm your wallet, but buying a fake perfume or hair product can seriously harm you as well as supporting organized crime and illegal activity. Designer perfumes allow accessibility to consumers who can’t afford the designer bag or dress. Counterfeit perfumes can be bought very easily via websites such as eBay or markets, where customers are actually not aware that the product they are buying is a fake. Counterfeit perfume can physically harm you and result in serious skin reactions and burns. Knockoffs of high end perfumes are made cheaply and often watered down with alcohol and impure ingredients. Unknown chemicals could be added and there is often no way of tracing where the product was made. Legitimate companies and law enforcement will fight against fakes, however consumers need to be aware of the risks and what to look out for when buying a fragrance.
DON’T BE FOOLED!
A guide to steering clear of fake fragrance: LOOK CLOSER Attention to detail is really important in counterfeit goods in general. Many counterfeit perfumes struggle to copy the original bottle and achieve the same colour liquid.
cellophane without telltale glue signs. Designer perfumes often have very unique designs and can be difficult to copy exactly, so be aware of even the small details such as colour variation, thickness of glass and whether the cap is even or wobbly. BUY AT A REASONABLE PRICE AND TRUSTED PLACE If you want to buy a designer perfume the key is to do your research. Try several different trusted shops e.g. Department stores such as John Lewis or House of Fraser as well as online on discount beauty websites such as Feel Unique and Look Fantastic, both which often have amazing discounts over a range of perfume, make up and skin care. Genuine perfume can be bought at discount prices, however it cannot be ridiculously cheap as a high quality perfume cannot be produced at an extremely low cost.
- Visit outlet stores or shopping centres such as Bicester village, based in Oxfordshire which has over 100 Designer brands such as Mulberry and Alexander McQueen at amazing prices. - For a beauty bargain checkout online stores such as feelunique.com and lookfantastic.com who often have 15% off offers running as well as already discounted products. - Take a peek at Hardlyeverwornit. com which offers previously owned BEWARE luxury items at discount prices shipping Street or van sellers will often display the worldwide real version of the product but substitute - If it’s a designer dress you’re after it for a fake when you purchase the girlmeetsdress.com is the perfect place product. to go! This is the first designer dress hire company in the UK, offering a range of THE SMELL TEST designer dresses to borrow at a fraction The scent of the perfume must be long of the price such as a Herve Leger lasting and the biggest tell-tale sign of a bandage dress to rent for £129, retail fake fragrance is the smell fading quickly, price £1,330. as the counterfeit manufacturers do not - A shoe lovers paradise, Shoeaholics. have the correct formula, they can only com is the Kurt Geiger Outlet website, produce head notes, not heart or base which is updated weekly, selling Kurt notes. The easiest way to compare a Geiger shoes and accessories with up to genuine and fake is by smelling the real 75% off as well as running competitions version in a department store. and other offers on a regular basis. WHY BUY FAKES?! There are so many other great options for buying designer items at a discounted price, from designer dresses to skincare and perfume here are some amazing ways of bagging a bargain! - Check out The Outnet.com which has loads of great discounted designer clothes, shoes and accessories including several Alexander Wang totes with 50% off just because they are past season items.
If you really want a slice of luxury then perhaps the real deal is the best option. Purchasing a fake can undermine the purpose of why you wanted to buy that product in the first place. Don’t be made to pay the real price of fake products by supporting an illegal trade. Coco Chanel believed that “Imitation is the highest form of flattery”. In part, this is true as high street designs are inspired from catwalk creations, however the world of counterfeit can be anything but flattering. Watch the bags!
KNOW YOUR LABELS When working out if it is legitimate, pay close attention to the packaging. Examine the small print on the box, is it misspelled? Blurry? No bar code or blurry bar code? Take a look at the label on the box too to see if it is slightly off centre or looks like a poor quality image. The package containing the perfume should be expertly wrapped in
Gold and jewelled necklace; £14 from Diva Sparkly black dress; £14 from Primark, also available in other colours Nude nail polish; £28 from Tom Ford
Styled by: Brittanny Smith Photographed by: Lindsey Harper Modelled by: Katie Taylor
The effortless yet glamorous look which never fades
Brittannysmith spread.indd 1
Black maxi dress; £18 from Missguided.com White clutch bag; £22 from ASOS Gold necklace; £6 from Primark limited edition Clip-on pink jewelled earrings; £8 from ASOS
Brittannysmith spread.indd 2
Navy blue Jasper Conran hat; ÂŁ16 from Debenhams Sparkly black dress; ÂŁ14 from Primark, also available in other colours
Brittannysmith spread.indd 3
Photographer: Paul Smith Model: Christina Leil Make up: Lindsey Hope Hair: M Shaw Garments: Gladrags, Forfar Location: Norwood Hall
Victorian Gothic Page 100-101.indd 2
Page 100-101.indd 3
RETURN OF TEEN SPIRIT...
Photography by Gary Massie Model: Nikki Mearns Stylists: Claire Wilson, Elaine Porter and Katie Palmer
GRUNGE IS BACK Photo Spread.indd 2
This Page Dress, T-Shirt, Shoes, Tights, Jewellery models own. Title Page Shirt models own, Leggings Topshop, Jewellery models own.
Magazine Spread.indd 1
This Page Dress Topshop, Shirt models own, Jewellery models own.
Magazine Spread.indd 2
Black:Noir Grunge Street Style
Model: Emily Gill Stylist: Zoe Fraser Photographer: Zoe Fraser
magazine spread final.indd 1
Leather Jacket: Vintage Maxi Dress: Vintage Necklace: Miss Selfridge Hat: Carhartt Boots: Topshop Rings: Stylistâ€™s own
magazine spread final.indd 2
Striped Top: Zara Jumper: H&M Necklace: Primark Jeans: H&M Bag: H&M Boots: Modelâ€™s own
magazine spread final.indd 3
Dark Romance Model: Emma Wilson Photographer: Bronwyn Evans Stylists: Emma Wilson & Shauni Lynch
Necklace/Topshop Top/Topshop Trousers/H&M
Necklace/Topshop Playsuit/River Island Skirt/River Island
cheaper than a psychiatrist,
The story of a real life shopaholic and student
itting in my tiny box of a university room and crying like a baby, staring at my online bank account realising that I have no money to live on. What an idiot! I laugh at that memory now. I had lost control and spent around £1500 within a month and a half of starting university…bear in mind that I had paid one month’s rent along with food, and of course a few books but, my true down fall was due to clothes. Ah clothes; the love of my life and the real meaning to my existence. But why do they have to be so expensive? Moving to university had been the most exciting thing to ever happen to me; I had started studying Fashion Management where everyone on my course looked absolutely fabulous, so there was no way I would let myself be the tramp in boring, worn-out clothes. That was when I realised it was time to get my debit card out and
“I had always been a die-hard shopper” start spending some of that undeserved Student Finance money. I had never ever been given that much money before in my life so I kept saying to myself that I had loads left and it wouldn’t run out; I couldn’t have been more wrong. The first things on my list which triggered my addiction were the hoards of junk food which I could finally buy myself, then came books (which were obviously mandatory), stationary, bed covers and just junk which I thought I needed for my room - such a waste of money. My flatmates would continually ask me, “what have you bought again Brit,” and I would always make up a pretty decent excuse as to why I needed all that lovely rubbish and clutter.
brittannysmith magazine article.indd 2
Or is it?
Written By Brittanny Smith
But eventually my excuses ran out. My addiction reached its peak when I had run out of stationary and bedroom props to buy and I had to accelerate to buying the good stuff; the fabulous, expensive, feelgood clothes. I mean, I had always been a die-hard shopper; I definitely got that from my mother who always encouraged me to shop until the money had run out - what a good role model. She said shopping made her feel better about life and better about herself, and that attitude to money had definitely been passed down to me. What she forgot to teach me was that when the money ran out, I would be left with empty food cupboards and a rumbling tummy sick with hunger and worry. So I bought a billion tops, trousers, heels, accessories, dresses, hats, scarves, jackets and coats; literally everything and anything that counts as clothing- the list was endless. Lets see just how stupid I really was, on what was supposed to be a STUDENT BUDGET, here are a few items... • A lovely black and white panel dress from Zara for £50, which was a must have as I was going to Edinburgh so needed to let everyone know that I was a fabulous superstar from Chelsea (and not actually just from Kent). • A red Zara dress with diamanté on the shoulders for £35, which I NEEDED for a random, average night out. • A black, 3 compartment bag from Zara, another £50, which I wanted for everyday use at university which has come to good use, and which I accidentally spilt
strawberry milkshake into...big mistake! • A black blazer with studs for also £50, which I thought looked very business-like so people would take me more seriously. And then there were the countless shops to Primark and H&M which always came to about £60 every time because I couldn’t say no to anything. And I wasn’t just shopping a few times a month; I was shopping at least 3 to 4 times a week. I could not hold back from buying exactly what I wanted and trust me when I say, the spending all added up and it left me with virtually nothing. Frivolous shopping is for the rich and famous, and I shouldn’t have been trying to pretend that I was anything like them because I’m a student with a low budget income. Depressing!
speak. That wasn’t what I had signed up for! Barclays had definitely told me that I could increase my overdraft whenever I wanted, and they certainly never told me that my spending was being watched through a GIGANTIC magnifying glass. I felt like a naughty child being told off for eating too much candy and now I could never eat it again; I wanted to stamp my feet until I got what I wanted. Obviously I didn’t get what I wanted.
So probably the biggest blow to my account on one single item was my army green Zara coat with silver studs on the sleeves; it was £130. Now that may not seem bad when my parents spend it but for a student, this wasn’t clever. Everyone kept complimenting me on my new coat, so I felt like the coolest chick ever and just had to continue buying more...so I did. However, the worst part came when I had to pay November’s accommodation
“Step one: I realised I had an addiction”
rent. I had less than that amount of money in my account and I was so scared that I honestly thought the accommodation officers would come and chuck me out onto the street or even worse...ring my Daddy! To get out of this problem, I went to the bank and decided to cheekily ask to increase my no-interest overdraft, which was already -£200 from my spending. And guess what they said, ‘I’m sorry Miss Smith, but I see that you have been spending big amounts on shopping in places like Zara, in particular a £130 coat...so we will not be able to extend your overdraft.’ That was a stab to the heart and suddenly I couldn’t
brittannysmith magazine article.indd 3
I ran home holding back my tears thinking my life was over and I would have to leave university and forever be a failure. Oh I was so dramatic! I rang my boyfriend who, instead of being lovely and relaxing, reconfirmed that I was ridiculous with money and needed help. To be fair, he had even lent me extra money to survive. So that was it! Step one: I realised I had an addiction so now for step two: how to deal with it. I went online and searched all the reasons to why I had gone crazy with buying clothes. Some websites told me that I was ‘afflicted with compulsive buying’ which to me sounded like I had some sort of disease and made me laugh, and others said that I was trying to ‘fill a void in my life by shopping’. Really? I just thought I was extremely materialistic and loved clothes and shopping, but these websites made me question my sanity! Suddenly I was thinking about missing family and friends and thinking of the ‘void’. I was drifting in and out of laughter and sadness, when I finally pulled myself together and told myself that the money spending was down to the love for clothes and my own childish stupidity. Eventually, I plucked up the courage to ring my mummy (not daddy or he would have gone mental) and tell her a half truth. I told her that university living had been expensive and my Student Finance wasn’t enough to cover everything. Hallelujah! The heavens opened up and she paid the majority of my November rent for me as an
early Christmas present! So lucky. Now, when it came to December’s rent, my flatmate finally decided to wake up and tell me that rent didn’t have to be paid until the end of the academic year if we wanted. I could have saved myself the drama and just rang the accommodation officer and told them I would pay it later. Nightmare over. Stress levels down. Life became a lot clearer after this and I removed myself from being in places close
“Life became a lot clearer” to clothing shops, I now keep my bottom firmly pressed to the bus seat instead of getting off for an impulse buy. That way I am still giving myself room to have fun but rein myself in from losing my good sense. It has been a tough struggle to refrain from shopping wildly and I am definitely not as bad as I used to be. Every time I walk past Zara, I hear the clothes calling out my name but I hold strong and walk away. I now know what I need and what I don’t need; when I can afford to spend and when I can’t. Obviously I still shop as I am a fashion
student and must look like I actually like fashion however, never again will I ever be so careless. Clothes do matter and they are still the love of my life but they aren’t worth the tears and loss of sleep. Let this be a lesson to all of the new comers who enter the world of responsibility. Don’t let clothes trick you into thinking you need them to make yourself feel better; if there is a void, fill it with something productive and not something which creates negativity and makes that void bigger. As some say, “Life is what you make it, so let’s make it a good one.”
BRIGHT and BEAUTIFUL...
Jumper- River Island- £22 Necklace- River Island- £12 Jeans- New Look- £19.99 Stylists- Kirsty Stevenson, Siobhan Teague, Chloe Watt Model- Aoife Doyle Photographer- Keilidh Ewan
photoshoot spreadFINAL.indd 2
photoshoot spreadFINAL.indd 3
Dress- Topshop- £45 Blazer- Primark- £25
photoshoot spreadFINAL.indd 4
Dress- Zara- £25 Bag- Michael Kors- £228
photoshoot spreadFINAL.indd 5
Bag- River Island- ÂŁ45
photoshoot spreadFINAL.indd 6
A Mermaid’’s Tail
Handbag, £49, Dune. Shoes, £85, Dune.
It’s all about the texture combined with a mermaid sheen Handbag, £30, Marisota. Sandals, £75, Dune.
Dress, £179, Monsoon. Necklace, £14.99, New Look. Bag, £249, Pied a Terre.
Clutch Purse, £55, Dune. Watch, £14.99, New Look
by Sally Murning
Product Page Sally Murning.indd 1
FINAL SPREAD.indd 2
The Garden of
Escape into the Garden of Eden this season to discover fabulous florals and the forbidden fruits.
Photographs by Daniel McAvoy www.danielmcavoyphoto.co.uk Model: Katie Bisset Styled by Katie Taylor Dress, Biba Necklace, Topshop Belt, Zara
FINAL SPREAD.indd 3
Dress, Topshop Rings, Accessorize
FINAL SPREAD.indd 4
Stocklists: Topshop (www.topshop.com) Accessorize (uk.accessorize.com) Biba (www.houseoffraser.co.uk/Biba) Zara (www.zara.com) Model: Katie Bisset Hair and Makeup by Model Shoot Location: Red Dawn Photography Studio
FINAL SPREAD.indd 5
Dive into the East the b oundless b lues of the sky the g lorious g olds of the sun the r uby r eds of her lips
Photographer: Sarah Young Stylist: Judit Karola Nagy Model: Kristīne Seņko Make-up and hair: stylist and model Top: George Earrings: stylist’s own
Top: George Earrings: stylistâ€™s own
Kimono: stylist’s own Top: model’s own
Day to Night
The Perception of Happiness
Photographer: Lauren Sherlock Model: Chloe Da Costa Stylist and Make-up: Briagh Gardner
Tiered Dress, Ark & Co.: 70GBP Moments Charm Bangle, Pandora: 55GBP
Black Tulle Midi Dress, Topshop: 30GBP Black Patent Boots, Topshop: 40GBP Organza Fabric, Mandors: 3.50GBP/m
Pink Lady Primark boucle coat £40
M&S Collection coat £85
George at Asda M&S Collection coat £85
The pink coat has been the most hyped up piece of the season. Whether it be dusky, coral, bright or rose pink, they have all been kicking up a storm on the high street. As designers such as Valentino and Simone Rocha have showcased their pink winter coats, the highstreet have also embraced their own take on the pink coat for the coming season. Will you be thinking pink this coming winter?
Primark blush tulip coat £35
Style it with ...
all clutches - ASOS
pink coat final.indd 1
A hologram clutch will give your coat a more edgy look, or a black clutch will keep it simple and elegant.
RIVER ISLAND COAT £100
FROM L-R: TOPSHOP LIME COAT, £98 PRIMARK LEATHER PANELLED COAT, £25 PRIMARK PINK COAT, £32
WINTER WARMERS TOPSHOP COAT £85
MISSGUIDED COAT £64.99
RIVER ISLAND COAT £110
FIGHT THE COLD THIS WINTER WHILST STILL LOOKING FABULOUS IN OUR SELECTION OF STYLISH WINTER COATS productpageheathermorton.indd 1
ASOS COAT £85
Revive your wardrobe with warm winter looks
Tweed coat with fur collar - ASOS £65 Dress - Lashes of London £79.99
Stylist - Nuala Boal Photographer - Nicole Leslie Model - Holly Stansfield Make-up - Nuala Boal
Fur coat - Topshop £95 Dress - Lashes of London £55 Shoes - ASOS £40
Cape - H! By Henry Holland £60 Dress - Primark - £8 Shoes - ASOS £40
Once Upon A Time Step into a Vintage Wonderland with timeless trends...
Models: Finn Lawrie and Eilidh Teale , Stylists: Tessa Waddell and Sarah Whyte, Photographer: Tessa Waddell
FINAL FINAL PHOTO SHOOT.indd 2
Eilidh wears (right): Jacket - Stylist’s Top - Topshop, £38 Skirt - Stylist’s own Finn wears (left): Jacket - Topshop, £79 Playsuit - Topshop, £38 Jewellery - Model’s Own
FINAL FINAL PHOTO SHOOT.indd 3
Eilidh wears: Top - Model’s own Skirt -Topshop, £15 Jewellery - Primark, £2.50 Finn wears: Top (underneath dress) Topshop, £35 Dress - Sue Ryder Charity Shop, £6
sarah whyte magazine spread.indd 2
Finn wears: Jacket - Vintage Dress - Charity Shop, £6 Top - Topshop, £35 Headband - Model’s own
FINAL FINAL PHOTO SHOOT.indd 2
Opulence & Glamour
Classic looks inspired by the Roaring Twenties
Jennifer McPherson Spread.indd 2
Jennifer McPherson Spread.indd 3
Stylists: Kara Hunter, Melissa McLean, Jennifer McPherson, Erin Moffat Model: Caitlin Falconer
Embrace the party season with these Roaring Twenties inspired outfits
Glitter Dress, £24.99 New Look Necklace, £12.99 New Look Fur Collar, £19.99 Topshop
Fashion spread .indd 1
Photographs by Sonia Parker Styled by Collins Chiedu & Sophie Urquahart Make up & Hair by Tatenda Guveya Models - Sandra Zalewska & Monica Capkova
Baroque Print Top, £24.99 New Look Skinny Jeans, £19.99 New Look Jacket, £44.99 New Look Earrings, £9.99 New Look
Fashion spread .indd 2
Baroque Print Top, £24.99 New Look Skinny Jeans, £19.99 New Look Jacket, £44.99 New Look Earrings, £9.99 New Look Clutch Bag, £14.99 New Look Shoes, £29.99 New Look
Fashion spread .indd 3
Make a Statement
Stand out from the crowd this party season and take any lbd from drab to fab in seconds. Here is our pick of the high street’s hottest... 1.
Go bold with gold or sensual in silver 1.Primark £5
Final Product Page 2.indd 1
4.Oliver Bonas £33
Bohemian Witchcraft letting waves crash upon the bohemian surroundings of this witchy styled persona
Styled by Sally Murning // Photographed by Linda Thomson // Modelled by Emily Hutchison // Makeup by Sally Murning
Magazine Spread Sally Murning.indd 2
Magazine Spread Sally Murning.indd 3
Jumper, Urban Outfitters. Skirt, Topshop. Necklace and Floral Headband, Primark (all model and stylists own)
Magazine Spread Sally Murning.indd 4
Dress, Vintage. Headband, Vintage. Bracelet, Vintage (all stylists own)
be inhabited by a body in order to look attractive. But while they’re beautiful alone, it’s when a woman steps into a pair that the magic happens. The right shoes can change how she looks, feels and is seen by others.” This has always been a bit of a philosophy behind Parikka’s designs, as she skilfully Redefining Scandinavian Design combines luscious colours, quality materials Photos courtesy of Minna Parikka and whimsical details to create shoes and accessories that are like captivating a When people talk of Scandinavian design fairytale. The first Minna Parikka Autumn/ they often describe it as clean-cut and casual, Winter collection was launched in 2006, with the idea ‘less is more’. It certainly is far featuring swan-winged courts and heartfrom the commonly stated thought ‘beauty shaped handbags inspired by gingerbread hurts’ aiming to create stylish yet practical shapes to name a few. After a positive pieces. This has led to the Scandinavians response from both the public and press, becoming world leaders in innovative, Parikka continued work on her designs. cutting-edge design. However, ever since And for three whole years, being young, Minna Parikka founded her namesake brand determined and full of hope, she ran her in 2005, the often seen as unisex or sexless business alone. Her first employees were design scene, has been blown away by the hired only when the first store opened in playful seduction of Parikka’s shoes. Some 2008 on Helsinki’s Bulevardi. have even named her the Lulu Guinness of Since the beginning Minna Parikka wanted shoe design. her brand to become global and that Combining fun and flirty designs with meant gaining valuable contacts to build high quality craftsmanship, Minna Parikka a supporting network. Within Finland, has managed to build her name to become Parikka found this to be rather easy as the Finland’s most recognised shoe and competition for attention was relatively accessory brand, with her creations being small. Anyone she contacted was almost sold in around 20 countries worldwide. certain to reply – whereas abroad those Parikka has always been ambitious, driven by with an influential position were considered her passion for design and love of shoes, and almost god-like, and thus difficult to get a has a dream that one day Minna Parikka will hold of. Being a young entrepreneur Parikka grow to become an internationally renowned has learned through trial and error, never brand with a wide array of global stockists. having had a business mentor. She’s always But she still has a long way to go. relied on her instinct and done what felt “I felt like I’d been struck by a lightning right at the time, and for networking the best when I first realised I could actually make a method she’s come to find is quite simply career out of making shoes.” just to travel and make contacts on the spot, It all goes back to when Parikka at the at trade shows and fairs – even on the streets. young age of 15, learned of the possibility “I am my own boss and I get to be the ruler of a career in shoe design, after reading a of my own queendom.” magazine article her sister wrote about a shoe Currently, Minna Parikka employs three fulldesigner named Andrea Pfister. Years later at time and two part-time employees besides the age of 19, Minna applied and received a herself. Working in a fast-paced industry and place at De Montfort University in Leicester having expanded her empire, she now needs to study the art. So Parikka packed her bags the extra hands and sometimes could even and set out to pursue her long sought after use a couple more. And like any entrepreneur dream, with her determination granting her Parikka never counts her own hours, doing the prestigious Young British Glove Designer what she loves for a living, all the while of the Year award in 2002. working towards her dream of an established “May these shoes lead you to new global brand. As a response to the growth adventures.” of the brand, Parikka decided it was time Upon graduation, Parikka spent six years to change the location of its flagship store living, working and gaining inspiration to a more central location in Helsinki on in London, Milan and Barcelona, before Aleksanterinkatu. moving back to her native Finland and The new store is now at a prime spot, with starting up her own brand in 2005. When more floor space and full-length windows Minna left home with wanderlust at 19, allowing for visibility of the whole she never would’ve imagined feeling that storefront. The interior also allows for a homesick longing that had her move back better display of items, following a pastel into the city and streets that she once wanted colour scheme, with innovative displays and to greatly leave behind to take on the world. quirky details, like lip-shaped sofas and lightAfter moving back to Helsinki Minna began up decorations. The new store is like a fresh working as a stylist, but it didn’t last long, as new wave of inspiration for Parikka who sees she realised it wasn’t what she wanted. And the move as a landmark in the maturing of so she began work on creating the image and the brand. Minna Parikka caters, and always setting up her own brand, Minna Parikka. has, for those who don’t mind a splash of “Shoes – unlike clothes – don’t have to colour or some frill and glitter in their day-
to-day lives. She always wanted to design for people like herself, who are a bit more daring and playful with their image. Her personal style could only be described as unique, with eclectic combinations and fun details. “My design are almost like love letters from one high heel shoe lover to another. Allow yourself to be playful and let a pair lead you to new adventures. Life is too short to take style too seriously.” The current Autumn/Winter 2013 Wonderland collection features bunny-eared loafers, chunky heels and her signature sweetheart courts. Staying true to her design aesthetic, they come in a range of eyecatching funky prints and colours. To date, Minna Parikka has had her work grace the pages of international publications such as Vogue, Elle, Grazia, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire and Tatler, just to name a few. She’s also had the chance to provide shoes and accessories for stars including Lady Gaga, Beth Ditto, Fergie and Paloma Faith. Parikka is also privileged to have her shoes and accessories manufactured in the same family-run factory in Alicante, Spain as Lulu Guinness and Nicole Farhi. In a design world dominated by men Minna Parikka has come far, having already gained a number of cult followers. As a woman herself, she believes she truly understands what women look for in their shoes. She can relate to the feeling of empowerment women get in a high pair of heels, but never wants to jeopardise comfort for looks. She, for one, still wants to wear heels daily even past her 70s. Parikka truly has come a long way from the young girl she once was to a woman running her own shoe empire. Even after all the recognition and publicity she’s received, and with her business flourishing, she still holds and will continue to hold her feet firmly where she began. “I find Helsinki for me is a place for new thoughts and calm. It feels like you don’t have to be running after someone else, or joining some fashion movement. I’m free to invent my style and myself – and more importantly what Finnish shoe design is.” Words: Marianna Siljander
Bohemian Bride Photography by: Gavin Hadden Model: Diana Visocka Styled by: Emily Graham & Emily Nicholson Hair & Make-up: Hanaan Al-Khamis
FULL SPREAD.indd 2
Title Page Hair Piece: Made by Stylists Dress: Vintage Ring: Primark Embroidered Jacket: Miss Selfridge
FULL SPREAD.indd 3
This Page Skirt: Vintage Lace shirt: Vintage Fair White undertop: Topshop
c i l de
e l y t S
Left: Two piece: £30 to rent, The Closet Top Right: White shoes: £24.99 Daisystreetshoes Black shoes: £15 Primark Bottom Right: Blue dress: £25 to rent, The Closet Bottom Left: Green dress: £20 to rent, The Closet Bag: £50 Aldo Tights: £3 Primark
SPREAD complete.indd 2
SPREAD complete.indd 3
: £25 New Look Leopard print coat t to rent, The Close Green dress: £25 ark Socks: £2.50 Prim ark Shoes: £15 Prim
Two piece: £30 to Socks: £2 rent, The Closet .50 Prim Shoes: £2 4.99 Dais ark, ystreetshoe s
Look at: £25 New co nt pi rd pa eo L loset to rent, The C 5 2 £ s: es dr Green
SPREAD complete.indd 4
Models: Joanna Sandison and Yvette Bathgate Make up: Iona Graham Photographer: Suzie Smith Stylists: Marianna Siljander Louise Wright Lauren Scobbie
SPREAD complete.indd 5
TARTAN ROCKS ...Goodbye traditional Beware of the new old Temptation!
photographed by: Lisa Benner Model: Annekathrin Filusch Styled by: Lisa Benner & Patrycja Kasprzak
Bowler Hat: New Look Trenchcoat with Leather Sleeves: Philipp Plein DIY Dress: Jack & Jones Gloves: Zara
Bowler Hat: New Look Bandshirt: Modelâ€˜s Own Trenchcoat with Leather Sleeves: Philipp Plein Tartan Skirt: Primark Wedges: Zara
Bowler Hat: New Look Tartan Scarf: Primark Earcuff: Topshop Trenchcoat: Philipp Plein
Stylist: Natasha Rogers Photographer: Daniel Calder Models: Bethany Homewood & Conor Donnelly Motorbike: courtesy of Shirlaws Ltd.
Life is a Journey
Conor wears: TU at Sainsburys Jacket £40 and Jeans £20: Topshop Poloneck Jumper £15: Model’s own Stone Jumper Bethany wears: New Look Jumper £19.99: River Island Trousers £35: Topshop Necklace £25: Miss Selfridge Bracelet £10
Fashion Maasprzak, 20 nagement
“I’m human . If I didn’t m ake mistakes, I’ d never learn . You can on ly go forward by making mistakes.”
s in ve brain “You ha and feet ad your he oes, you sh r u o y in in yourself r can stee tion you ec any dir Dr Suess !” e s o cho
It’s not what you wear but how you wear it. Top any outft off with a confident walk and a smile- Fool them into thinking you know what you’re doing.
“My m o happi ther alway ness w s told m as When I wen the key to e that t to sc asked life. ho m be wh e what I w ol, they anted en I g rew u to down p. I ‘h me I d appy’. The wrote yt id the as n’t unders old signm tand ent, a I told nd th didn’t em they under s life.”John L tand ennon
C l a i r e H andy emmi -Lio
Contributor Profile pages.indd 2
Its n o a day t just dream you d ecide if make t it yo o life ur
e right girl th can a e v i “G nd she shoes, a he world” t r e conqu yn Monroe Maril
Still trying to find a pair of silver sparkly flats that can withstand my lifestyle.
Grace Arthu r
style is way a say to w you ho a with re o havi ut ng to sp e - Ra ak chel
age that is a langu s to e “Fashion lo lf in c th creates itse reality.” interpret erfeld - Karl Lag
ner Lisa Ben
t s is mos “Succes y b d e v hie often ac ‘t n o d o h those w t failure is know tha le.” inevitab anel Coco Ch
“Winter is m y favourite se ason as I love any ex cuse to wear fur”
Nicole Browne 01/05/2014 12:02
Jessica E l
an get “Anyone c and u dressed p but , s u ro o glam o e ple it is how p eir dress in th at th ff o days st o m e th re a ” g in intrigu
la Just call m me Jess! M
y styl e oath by : to swe ar “Style is kno you a wing re w want , what you ho to say and n giving ot a Orson damn.” Welle s
J U L I A B E AT TIE Fashion Manag ement Studen t Aberdeen
Wang “Style is a wa y to say who you ar e without having to spea k” - Rachel Zoe
‘Its ALWAYS better to arrive late...
is Hanaan Al-Kham .blogspot.co.uk as nv ca eth ear you-
“style h as noth in with fa shion, a g to do ge, size physiqu or e”.
ere nk th “I thi ty in u is bea ing. th y r e al’ ev ‘norm t a h W uld le wo , peop e as ugly v i e e c e r s pe lly usua I can ing of th some in it.” ty u a e r b ande
Contributors Second Year
- Alex Queen Mc
Aberdeen Business School Robert Gordon University
2013 - 2014
“I’ll stop wearing black when they invent a darker colour”
BRITTA NY MOHNS
Steff Clarke Part-time cat lady, full-time fashion junkie
Contributor Profile pages.indd 3
A fashio n student Management aspirin g streetw ear bra to set up a nd.
...than to arrive
t e. den spir INI ELL hion stu ct & in B ELA spe fas ANG ADIAN ours. re CAN orld is w the
rt to w
Kara Hunter . Student Fashion . r e v lo Cruise r. e p p o sh e Full tim
Ashleigh G ray, 20
“Be daring . Be first. Be differen t. Be just.”
cho i N y Emil ined
Quirky ed Reserv
on a ne ver end ing of style choices journey Where ”... d o www.st y ylepostc ou blog at? ode.blo gspot.c o.uk
py; “Do what makes you hap smile; you kes ma o wh h wit Be athe; Laugh as much as you bre .” live you as g lon & love as
“Give a girl the right shoes, and she can conquer the world.”
SS E N I P H A P ot a destination is a Jo u r
er One is nev or ed ss re d rve o ed ss re under-d Black in a Little Dress. erfeld - Karl Lag
G KATIE LAN
Aimilia A. Leontara
Kenzie Kieran Mc
WSKI A KRAJE IN T IS R H C
Rog a h s a t
ms t bloo er tha e most w o fl The is th f all. ersity in adv beautiful o d n a rare
ar the ern is to te “to be mod g” in th every soul out of
Be hap p while w y with what yo orking for wha u have, t you w ant. Contributor Profile pages.indd 4
Sarah Lo el Ke
n be ou ca y e r he f. orld w ursel In a w nt….Be yo a you w
Some are bo rn Some achie great, ve greatness, and Some have greatn ess thrust upon them. William S
cderb-draessined M e ll D“Oneaisnneie un r no ver overwhen wearing a little
Katy Elean or Williams
Beauty is in the eye of the
“Fashion is not something that exists in dres ses only. Fashio n is in the sky, in the street, fashio n has to do w ith ideas, the w ay we live, wha t is happenin g.” - Coco Cha nel
Judit Karola Nagy
Jenni M cPherso
Trying To Mainta in A Lifest yle I Canno t Afford
“Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak.” - Rachel Zoe
er her, Age cannot with Her e. nor custom stal y: et infinite vari
pe William Shakes
‘Fash io & feli n nes is wh I’m a at bout.’
d Maja Knowlan
CLEAN M A S S MELI Fashion obsessed, o spends to much, is ed to determin e th l e v tra world!
Contributor Profile pages.indd 5
“You ca overe n never be ducat ed”- O overdresse d or scar W ilde
Briege Smith 19
Samantha Jane Sneddon
“Life m oves pr ett fast. If you do y n ’t stop an d look around once in while, you co a uld miss it - Ferris .” Bueller
er you go
, go with
all your h
‘The best things in life are free. The second best are very expensive’ - COCO CHANEL
N O I H FAS
na Marian ljander Si wild
Brittanny Smith, 20 “Style is a y way to sa who you ut are witho to g in hav speak” -rachel zoe
Tes sa W add ell
fas “I h wo hion ave a me wa l n m s no ways o to r re t on beli eas bea ly t eve sur uti o m d th e th ful, ake at em but , gi — Yv v als es confi e the o Sai d nt ence m Lau .” ren t
‘Whoever said money ca n’t buy happ iness, simply d idn’t know whe re to go shopp ing’
Contributor Profile pages.indd 6
,DISNE Y&PIZ LOVE ZA R
Days are for shopping, nights are for dancing, life is for fashion
eighteen year old fashion student with an unhealthy obsession for clothes, chains and ginger hair.
a With ation, I n i g a m i find imes ttle t e som i f a l mysel n reality i lost ean hes m “Clot g until n n nothi e lives i n bs o o e c m a o J s rc a M ” them
Siob h Porter
án Te a
Fash i Style ons fade, is ete rnal. Yves Saint Laur ent.
Emma Wilson 19 year old
Fashion Student Shopping addict
era... Life is like a cam t’s ha w on s Focu ure important, capt , es tim the good e develop from th negatives, and if rk things don’t wo r he ot an ke out, ta . ot sh
nd . Fashion St
n Sc Laure
udent . Ninetee
fash io what n is yo buy. u
e. n Slav Fashio Addict. o Tatto ver. Lo Sushi
styl what e is yo with u do it.
t “If you haven’ it! ke Fa got it. Too short? Wear big high heels, but do practice walking!”
hite, 19 “Today you are you, that is true r than true. There is no-one alive who is yo uer than you’ Dr.Seuss
- Victoria Beckham
Sandra l Samue n
fashio Estonian who t, n e d stu avel, tr loves to lie in d n a dance the sun.
ie T aylo r,
an irrati o outfit on nal fear of wast ing a go an insig od nificant day”
‘Fashi on necess is not arily about la It’s no bels. t abou t brand s. about It’s so else th mething at com es from w i – Ralp thin you’ h Lau ren
Contributor Profile pages.indd 7
Watt Chloemoney right
ging my “I like n see it, han a c I where closet” in my ms up uch su m y t t e . r This p student life my
So here we are, 5 years in, and as an outsider looking in, I can only say that this magazine just seems to be getting better and better. Students before us have been raising the bar each year, and present students are subsequently meeting those expectations. This magazine is so special. It’s our first chance to prove what we can do in such a beautiful and public manner. Our first chance to come together as a group and create something that is truly inspiring; something that we can ultimately be proud of. Bring this magazine to interviews; bring it back to your elementary school. Show your grandparents; your neighbours; your mailman. Everyone should see it, because it’s not only brilliant but it’s all ours. These are the years that we are learning what really goes on behind the scenes in the fashion industry. We are now beginning to understand the ins and outs of a magazine, the secrets of marketing, and I can tell you right now, we’ll never look at a shopping trip to Primark the same way again. It’s so amazing that we are now appreciating all the hard work that goes into creating such a magical world. And that’s where the hard part comes in. We have to remember never to lose that sense of wonder when we think about fashion. Never forget your first pair of heels when you were 13. The ones that you had to beg your mom to let you have, and you wobbled around the mall in them but you HAD to have them. Never forget the butterflies in your stomach when you tried on your prom dress for the first time, and how you can still get that feeling with a really beautiful piece of clothing. Fashion allows us to escape to a whimsical world of beauty and art and intrigue, and sometimes it’s hard to remember that world when we’re focusing all of our attention on all the technical stuff. My advice to you would be to find your very own balance between the two. You must always respect the hard work and dedication that so many people (including yourself soon!) put into making the fashion industry what it is, but you can never let yourself get so caught up in it that you forget to have fun. It’s not worth the trouble of disregarding what put you here in the first place. So take a step back, slip back into your prom dress, window shop, shop the sales on ASOS, do whatever it is you have to do to keep the magic. Because it really is an amazing thing, and I think that’s what we’ve created together in this magazine; a little bit of magic.
Shelby Guertin International Student 3rd Year Fashion Management Honours (BA)
Our fashion magazine, featuring photography, styling and articles from our second year Fashion Management students. Find out more about our...