JT Summer 2021

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Merry Christmas

D i 16 am 00 on + C ds ert on ifie -h d an d New Zealand Family owned Diamond wholesaler Extensive range of smalls & fancy cuts Special off-shore orders welcome In-house state-of-the-art test equipment to test Man Made diamonds from natural State-of-the-Art Video Photography equipment able to take videos of diamonds & Jewellery


Adorning Kiwi Masterpieces for over 19 years


Now based in Auckland CBD PO Box 105000 Auckland City 1143 0800 DIAMONDS / 0800 342666 09 261 2638 – Tilak: 021 541 151 www.stargems.co.nz info@stargems.co.nz


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Publisher/Advertising Debbie Whiting Phone: 09 378 1222 Mobile: 0274 777 955 inklink@xtra.co.nz www.jewellerytime.co.nz

Editor Debra Douglas Mobile: 021 185 6846 chaucer@xtra.co.nz

Jewellers & Watchmakers PO Box 16007, Hornby, Christchurch 8441, New Zealand Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz Terms and Conditions Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

The official magazine of The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.






When you can’t get there in person


Finding magic in metal


Featuring a sapphire


Meet the collector


Wearable sculptures


It’s in the bag




Design time


Retailers Review


All about sterling silver


JWNZ President’s Report


Goldsmiths Guild of NZ


Watchmakers’ Institure of New Zealand



JWNZ Executive Notes


Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand



New Products and Services

InkLink Publications Ltd. publishes Jewellery Time on behalf of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated. The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated reserves the right at any time and without notice or liability to any party cancel, omit or alter any editorial or advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material. Copyright Reproduction rights in part or full of the contents of this magazine must be obtained with the permission of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and or the publisher. Disclaimer The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are purely those of the authors and are not necessarily the official views of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated nor those of the publisher.


Published by InkLink Publications PO Box 46-218, Herne Bay, Auckland 1147 Design/Prepress by Rex Eade, Eade Gallery, Ph 027 286 0438, rex@eadegallery.co.nz Printed by Image Centre Ltd

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Registered as a magazine at the GPO, Wellington. ISSN 1170-9960.

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TALKBACK Introducing Rick Youmans, artist and designer of the presentation cases Youmans Capsules and JWNZ Trade Fair exhibitor … Where do you live and who do you share your home with? I live in Raglan by myself at present. What is your background as an artist? How did it evolve into a career? I studied art at college with many extra lessons at weekends. But I really started when younger, with drawing and painting at home. I also studied graphic design and eventually followed that as a career. Where is your studio/showroom located and who do you work alongside? My studio is on The Wharf at Raglan, called Youmans Studio. There is another gallery next door, as well as the well-known leather shop Soul Shoes and the potter Tony Sly. Of course there is also the famous fish and chip shop on the wharf. What do you offer at your studio, for example, art classes, exhibitions? The Youmans Studio combines the Youmans Capsules and the SKY INK SEA Collection of ink works and art books. I also run the occasional art classes, which run over two days. Exhibitions of new work or themes are held around every three months. What mediums do you use in your work? I work in oils, watercolour and ink. Your business also includes creating and selling the presentation cases, Youmans Capsules - tell us what motivated you to add the capsule series to your business interests? The capsule business has been my focus over the past 10 years, with painting only an occasional hobby with the odd commission. I have always loved any creative process and design, so it was a natural addon to my art. Who would these accessories appeal to? The capsules appeal mainly to the business community and manufacturers who enjoy being stand-outs and different in how they present themselves or their products. (www,youmanscapsule. com) 6


Where are the capsules manufactured? And what gives your product the ‘wow’ factor? I think the simplicity and purity of the design, along with the exceptional manufacturing which is mostly all done in New Zealand. No one else around the world wanted to take on what I wanted. I now know why. What impact has the pandemic lockdowns had on the way you do business as a designer and an artist? After the first lockdown things went well for a while, as people focused on what they could get in their own country. The second lockdown has been a lot harder and I think will take a long time to come right. It’s meant a shift, going more online and staying true to existing customers. The capsule business suffered most, as initial orders mainly from Australia and some from other countries have just all stopped, as the world gets to grips with the new landscape. Our products are still very relevant in the world, it’s just finding new ways of conducting business while keeping positive. Did you have a mentor or a person you looked up to, or impressed you, when you started your career. And if so, what was the advice they offered? When I was young it was my art teacher and my father who was always designing and making things for the various boats we had. Because his attitude was if he could make it better himself or improve the design he would. So I guess I just never really thought I couldn’t do the same. The best advice was: “You can’t water the garden if you are standing on the hose.” In another life, is there another career you would have liked to have pursued? I thought about perusing a professional yachtsman career, but that was very early days. An architect was something else I was tempted to follow. How do you relax away from the business? Go sailing.

Rick Youmans

Two things that top your bucket list … Mmm, maybe jump out of a plane as I hate heights. Explore exotic parts of the world in a large catamaran, painting and helping people understand the terrible state of our oceans are in and how they can help fix them. I have a book idea about this and started preliminary visuals many years ago. What is the most adventurous thing you have ever done? Crazy windsurfing at stupid times and having the police waiting for me on the shore. Sailing across Cook Strait in a storm in a small trimaran. Favourite piece of personal jewellery? I wear a crystal around my neck and that’s all as far as jewellery goes. Best summer holiday destination? Probably the whole of the top of South Island - Marlborough Sound, Able Tasman National Park area. Basically anywhere on a boat. Greatest indulgence? Rum and chocolate. What is your most treasured possession? My self and health. Christmas Day will find you enjoying … No idea this year. Depends on the Covid restrictions, but I hope with family somewhere. Do you have a new artwork series planned for 2022? Yes definitely, try to stop me. I also have plans for a new Ink book. If there was one special luxury item you would like to buy for yourself today, what would that be? Actually, a really nice watch.

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NEWS SHOW TIME IN MARCH March 6, 2022 is the new date for the JWNZ Trade Fair, to be held at the RNZYS, Westhaven, Auckland. The impact the current Covid-19 situation and the change to a new Covid-19 Protection Framework introducing a Red, Orange & Green level system will allow the Trade Fair (now fully subscribed) to proceed under Orange and Green. The NZ Government has advised how events such as our Trade Fair can be held. The NZ Government Covid-19 website, the Covid-19 Protection Framework states how events can be held under the new framework. Link - https://covid19. govt.nz/alert-levels-and-updates/ covid-19-protection Stating Vaccination Certificate requirements - Businesses, events, organisations, community, and a range of sectors may legally choose to implement a vaccination entry requirement for customers. If a business, organisation or service does not wish to request proof of vaccine, they will have to operate with strict limits on capacity and space requirements. They may need

RNZYS, Westhaven, City of Sails.

to close in Orange and/or Red levels. Green Level - If a business, organisation or service, does not request proof of vaccine, restrictions will apply. Events (indoor/outdoor) - up to 100 people, based on 1m physical distancing, seated and separated. This effectively means that our Trade Fair will not be held unless we implement a vaccination entry requirement for both exhibitors and visitors. It is understood that Health and Safety regulations require the JWNZ to provide a safe environment for

our exhibitors to work in and visitors a safe environment to visit. The venue will, no doubt, have their own requirements that we will have to abide by as well. Please be advised that a great deal of discussion has taken place on this matter and the JWNZ requirements of entry will be advised in due course. As in past years the Right of Admission to our Trade Fair is Reserved.

in early 2020. The five-day event, ‘Vicenzaoro 2021’, in Vicenza, Italy, welcomed more than 800 exhibitors and nearly 80% of the number of visitors who attended in 2019 -

results that organisers described in a post-show release as “well beyond expectations.” The next appointment with Vicenzaoro is 21-26 January 2022.

- Craig Anderson, JWNZ Executive Secretary

VICENZA, BACK IN BUSINESS The worldwide jewellery industry gathered at Vicenza, Italy, in September for one of the first large-scale events since Covid-19 put a stop to international travel


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NEWS MERCHANDISE PERFORMANCE REPORT NOW LIVE The Nationwide Jewellers group has announced the creation of a new Merchandise Performance Report, hosted by Retail Edge in their POS system and available exclusively to Nationwide members. Several years ago, Nationwide Managing Director, Colin Pocklington identified the significant benefit to sales growth that merchandise sales data would provide and designed a Merchandise Performance Report. In early 2019 he asked Retail Edge to implement it into their POS system. Following extensive programming and testing the Merchandise Performance Report is now live.

Nationwide members using the ‘The Edge’ POS now have exclusive access to information on the bestselling products in all categories of merchandise. “Our objective was to provide independent jewellers with some of the tools that until now, have only been available to chain stores,” said Colin. “The chain stores have instant access to information that identifies the bestselling products across their store network. This plays a major part in their ability to maximise sales and is one of the key reasons why the sales in the average jewellery chain store are 2.5 times

greater than sales in the average independent jewellery store.” “Our new report will help members to substantially increase their sales. They will be able to identify the bestselling products, by department, by supplier and by price range. “The new merchandise performance report works hand in hand with the existing one page Retail Management Report that we made available for Nationwide members using the Retail Edge system about ten years ago. Also, Nationwide will be assisting members transferring to Retail Edge from other POS systems.”

GOING SOMEWHERE ONE DAY? Travel restrictions may have interrupted globetrotting for many of us, but luckily they passed Louis Vuitton’s Vivienne by. The company has introduced the Vivienne Travellers Collection, populated by 11 bejewelled doll figures that can be worn as pendants or brooches or displayed as a pint-size objet d’art.

Vivienne, a flower headed, semiabstract mascot with a star over one eye, first appeared in 2018 dangling from key chains, as a bag charm or flitting across handbags. In diamonds, gold, platinum, onyx, pearls and a special lacquer, the street cool figures symbolise friendship, courage and luck.

The sporty Vivienne Surfer is ready to jump on her monogrammed surfboard and ride the waves. Priced at £25,500.

Precious Gem Imports Ltd


Joy Thavat

Freephone 0800 PGI GEM or 0800 744 436 10


NEW APPOINTMENT Najo is delighted to announce the appointment of well-known jewellery agent Helen Finlayson to its team. Helen has been representing international jewellery brands in the NZ market for more than 15 years.

Jo Tory, Najo’s Founder and MD, said: “Helen’s industry knowledge, combined with established relationships with Najo’s customers, made our decision very easy.”


Jo Tory

The junction of the gold curves reminds us of the meandering forms of rivers, as well as forming the letter ‘S’ in this Flumina lapis lazuli, white gold and diamond pendant from Stenzhorn’s Flumina collection.

Helen Finlayson

FROM THE MINE TO THE HIGH STREET Some of the world’s most famous jewellery brands and gemstone mining companies have banded together for a new series of papers about the coloured gem mining industry. Richemont, Swarovski, Tiffany & Co, LVMH, Chopard and Kering are joined by Gemfields and Muzo and together make the Coloured Gemstones Working Group (CGWG). The paper series Ancient Crafts, Modern Challenges was launched by the CGWG to shed light on the coloured gemstones industry. The

first paper in this series, ‘Hands that Dig, Hands that Feed: Lives Shaped by Coloured Gemstone Mining’, was published in October. Assheton Carter of TDi Sustainability and co-author of the series explained: “The coloured gemstones sector is not only fascinating, but also complex. As expectations on sustainability, responsible sourcing, and transparency increase, it is important to understand how the coloured gemstones sector works from the mine through to the high street.

“The paper series Ancient Crafts, Modern Challenges aims to identify and educate industry players on how to address the challenges they face and also the opportunities for positive change. There are many preconceptions on how the gemstones supply chain operates. The aim of these papers is to give the industry clarity on this. A better understanding of the reality of the situation is the first step towards truly responsible sourcing.” https://gemstones-and-jewellery. com/research/


NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIUM GEMSTONE STOCKIST P.O. Box 37597 Parnell, Auckland Phone (09) 3778 038 Email sales@preciousgem.co.nz Fax (09) 309 6807 Website www.preciousgem.co.nz JT2021 SUMMER 11

NEWS MELBOURNE JEWELLERY FAIR SET TO WELCOME VISITORS The Jewellery Industry Fair (JIF), run by the Jewellery Industry Network (JIN), will be held at The Timber Yard, in the Port Melbourne Precinct, February 6th & 7th. The event will see a host of fine jewellery suppliers and some of Australia’s leading natural and lab grown diamond suppliers attend. Showcase Jewellers is also set to welcome its guests to its members’ area inside the Fair. Many of the jewellery industry fair exhibitors have not been seen at a trade fair in many years, or are new to the industry and launching their brand to jewellers for the first time at the JIF 2022. The JIN will be injecting unique elements to the Fair for guests to immerse themselves in the industry and the manufacturing process. Guests can expect to find out more about education for jewellers, learn about sustainable business practises and find out more about the process of jewellery manufacturing. Celebrations will kick off at the Crown Casino at the end of the first day of the Fair, with the JAA

Jewellery Design Awards winners announced at an evening sponsored by Your Diamonds and Showcase Jewellers. Launched in July 2021, JIN’s objectives are to build assets for the Australasian jewellery industry to assist all types of members to grow and succeed in their jewellery

businesses. Offering the industry tools, events, resources and support, the JIN team has received significant support from the industry, with more than 400 members already signed up for the JIN Industry Portal. For more information: www.jewelleryindustryfair.com

CELEBRATING AUSTRALIAN DESIGNERS Built to represent all areas of the jewellery industry the Jewellery Industry Network (JIN) has released a range of merchandise to celebrate Australian jewellery designers. The range of merchandise comes after the JIN team saw so many creative expressions in its network of jewellers and wanted to give them an outlet to showcase other sides of their creativity. The Celebrating Australian Designers series is starting with Michael Mooney from Serpent Cove, one of Australia’s most energetic jewellery designers, creating pieces that link to stories of adventure and mystery. His designs are bold, original and striking with intricate details to relay the characters and scenes of the stories they represent. Mooney's artwork for Jewellers Co. is based on a bench jeweller’s life, “We often get into such a flurry when making and twisting metals that we get lost, only to finish for the day and 12 JT2021 SUMMER

come back to the bench and wonder, Who made all this mess? Was it me? Surely it must have been those gremlins, crawling out onto the bench and using our saw frames for bows, and burrs for arrows,” said Michael Mooney. The artwork has been created around two artistic interpretations of the Jewellers Co. logo. The larger logo works around the gremlins and tools and the second one has been used as

a standalone logo which JIN has used on the front of caps and T-shirts. Also released is the JIN range of Australian leather jewellers’ aprons. The lightweight and durable aprons are made to order in Australia and have been designed specifically for jewellers. They are available in two styles and have multiple belt lengths to suit everyone. For more information: www. jewelleryindustrynetwork.com

BOX ART Tiffany & Co. is celebrating its newest collection with a collaboration with an artist whose work blurs the line between the future and past. American artist Daniel Arsham works across several disciplines, from sculpture and digital art to film, furniture and set design. Arsham’s work often manipulates one’s perspective of time, interpreting recognisable objects - a telephone, a teddy bear, a Porsche - as degrading and eroding artifacts, in the fashion of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures.. These “future relics,” crafted in materials ranging from plaster and crystal to bronze, imagine the contemporary trimmings of human culture as the mark of an ancient civilization, suggesting the fleetingness of a single lifetime. The Bronze Eroded Tiffany Blue Box® is the latest expression of Arsham’s ‘Future Archeological’ series of artworks and limited to 49 pieces. Contrasting with the rugged forms of the sculpture, clients will discover a limited-edition Tiffany Knot x Arsham Studio bracelet in 18ct white gold with diamonds and tsavorites inside the box.

Crafted in bronze, the hand-finished patina is reminiscent of the signature ‘Tiffany Blue’ shade.

The iconic box story begins in 1878, when Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Book catalogue acquired its first cover in the particular shade of blue that’s now come to be known as Tiffany Blue. Variously described as ‘forget-me-not blue’ and ‘robin’s egg blue’, it was handpicked because of the popularity of turquoise gemstones in the 19th century. Turquoise was also a favourite of Victorian brides who gave their attendants a dove-shaped brooch set with turquoise so that they would not forget the occasion, a detail that was not lost on Charles Lewis Tiffany, who founded the brand as the pinnacle of wedding luxe.

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NEWS A SIGNIFICANT CHANGE OF DIRECTION Charlotte and Ollie Dugdale have taken over Pacific Time Industries from Tim and Leana Bartle. Charlotte has a healthcare background in management roles and Ollie spent the last 20 years piloting military and more recently commercial jets. They have three children, Louis (7), Oscar (5) and Florence (4) and an entitled fox terrier, Freddie (10). “We are fortunate to have the full support of Tim and Leana as we settle into our new roles, and with their help and tutelage we look forward to working with our customers and building on the success that Tim and Leana have established,“ said Ollie. “We hope to meet many of you at the Trade Fair in March, if not before.”

CHOPARD X BOND Ana de Armas, who plays Palmoma in No time to Die, the 25th James Bond film released in October, wears a Chopard Green Carpet Collection set in the film. The necklace has pear-shaped diamonds totalling 43cts, the bracelet is composed of an 82ct cascade of pear-shaped and brilliant cut diamonds and Ana’s earrings are graced with 14ct of pear-shaped diamonds.

WITH AN EYE FOR COLOUR Rainbows have become a symbol of support. Watchmaker Hublot, a pioneer with materials and bold colours, has taken the rainbow trend and introduced the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon set with 36 carats of multi-coloured gems. There are two models made from 18ct rose or white gold with bezels, crowns and integrated bracelets adorned with 484 baguette-cut red rubies, fuchsia pink sapphires, ultraviolet amethysts, topaz in Klein blue, leaf green tsavorites, lemon yellow sapphires and bright orange sapphires. The 43mm watches cost £654,000 each. Twelve hundred hours of work goes into selecting, cutting and setting the stones for every piece.

Charlotte, Ollie and Freddie Dugdale.

COLLECTABLE CRIME FIGHTER September 18 is Batman Day, when the world celebrates the caped crusader's enduring appeal and legacy, established in the world of film and comics and reimagined in immersive collectibles like the Kross Studio 1989 Batmobile desk clock. Switzerland’s Kross Studio and Warner Bros. Consumer Products teamed up this year to mark the day and recreated Tim Burton's iconic Batmobile from the 1989 Batman film, as a collectible desk clock. The numbered series of the desk clocks, limited to just 100 pieces, retailed for US$29,900 each.

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RAISING AWARENESS The Gemological Institute of America has announced the latest winner of the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design. This year those involved gathered virtually during GIA’s ‘Knowledge Rocks Week’ to celebrate the award given to Belle Sin Ting Wong. More than 100 students competed in the fourth edition of the design competition, whose entries were presented in their original, handrendered format, accompanied by statements addressing the materials used and the inspiration behind each piece. Wong, who earned her Jewellery Design certificate at GIA Hong Kong, won with her brooch inspired by Siamese fighting fish. The piece features yellow and white gold, diamond, enamel, jadeite, pearl, and sapphire.

THE KING LIVES ON Elvis Presley fans will be all shook up over the Ohio company Zales’ new collection. The Elvis Presley Collection features 23 styles of men’s jewellery, with designs inspired by the man known as the King of Rock ‘n’ Roll. The line includes bold curb link chains, statement diamond rings, cufflinks and horseshoes, an ode to the many horses on Elvis’s famous Graceland estate in Memphis, Tennessee.

A pair of 10ct two-tone gold and diamond cufflinks with an Elvis Presley silhouette (US$1,999), from the new Elvis Presley x Zales collection.

STAR DUO Jeweller Richard Talman works from a small workshop in the English town of Haywards Heath. His business, RTFJ, was founded in 2010 and as well as making custom pieces, does repairs and restoration jobs. Despite the unpretentious nature of the business, both Richard and his assistant and apprentice, Hugo Johnson, are television stars. Hugo won the first episode of the BBC’s All That Glitters jewellery talent show and Richard regularly appears on The Repair Shop, a BBC show seen on TV One, which brings beloved pieces of family history back to life with the help of expert craftspeople working in a thatched barn near Chichester. Richard has appeared on the show as a jewellery restorer since 2017. “It all started when one of the researchers on The Repair Shop called me after seeing my YouTube videos,” Richard explains. “I went along to the barn where it’s filmed and there was no audition, I just went in and started to work on a restoration then and there. I’ve been a guest member of the team ever since, called into the barn whenever they need a jeweller.”

Richard Talman and Hugo Johnson. PHOTO: PROFESSIONAL JEWELLER

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NEWS BASELWORLD CANCELLED Baselworld 2022 will not go ahead. Telling the industry it needs more time, the MCH Group has announced the Baselworld planned for March 30-April 4 2022 will not take place, due to the renewed aggravation of

the Covid situation. MCH gave no indication whether it intends to hold Baselworld, once among the biggest and most prestigious shows on the watch and jewellery calendar, later in the year

or any specifics about future plans. This is the third Baselworld in a row to be cancelled. In addition, Baselworld managing director Michel Loris-Melikoff will step down.

US$25,000 to US$50,000 the watch realised $229,900. Another highlight was Capone’s 14ct white gold matchbook cover,

set with 63 diamonds and estimated to sell for US$2,500 to US$5,000 - it sold for US$36.300.

AL CAPONE’S JEWELS American ‘businessman’ Al Capone rose to notoriety during the Prohibition era and was later immortalised in pop culture as the ultimate gangster. Items from his estate including jewellery, watches firearms, vintage photographs and furniture were auctioned at Witherell’s in Sacramento, California in October. The lots sold for more than US$3 million. The top lot in the jewellery/ watches category was Al Capone’s Patek Philippe pocket watch with 90 single cut diamonds (0.02 carats each/ VS/ EF) with a platinum contract case featuring a signed dial and movement. Estimated to sell for

LUXURY pearl & SOLID opal JEWELLERY www.ikecho.com.au | +61 2 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au



NZ Agent: Fabuleux Vous I +64 0274 203 137

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz





The maison Van Cleef & Arpels has a heritage of creating jewellery pieces inspired by dancers, As the story goes, one of its cofounders, Louis Arpels, was a fervent ballet fan, and was responsible for the creation of Van Cleef & Arpels’ first ballerina clips in the early 1940s. In the decades since, Van Cleef & Arpels has created numerous stunning pieces of jewellery inspired by the art of dance.

The grand prize of the prestigious competition, The Russian Diamond Line 2021, was won by Russian jeweller Sergey Izmestiev, founder of Izmestiev Diamonds, for his ‘Wind in the Garden’ brooch. The kaleidoscopic brooch combines pink gold, with enamel, spinel, rubies, diamonds and pink sapphires. The Pas de Trois transformable clip is created with white gold, tsavorite garnets, chrysoprase, grey mother-ofpearl and diamonds. Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels.

GETTING BIGGER AND BIGGER Despite being the world’s largest jewellery retailer, Chow Tai Fook has set out a rapid expansion plan that looks to give the business more than 2,000 new stores by 2025 across Mainland China, Malaysia and the Philippines. The more-than 90-yearold Chinese company which has 4,850 stores, hopes to have more

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than 7,000 by 2025. Chan Sai-Cheong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, said: “It is encouraging to see that the Mainland China market has regained momentum in the past year. We believe that the jewellery industry can share the fruits of economic prosperity.”

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BRAVO! This multi-tier Le Mythe necklace by Louis Vuitton features a 19.7ct sapphire, an 8.64ct emerald and over 26 carats of diamonds in this combination of symbols and motifs that celebrates the house’s 200-year anniversary. The Bravery collection, made up of an impressive 90 jewels, follows the theme of female empowerment in the form of precious adornment for warrior women. Shields, crosses and medieval talismans are woven in amongst the well-known Vuitton flower and star motifs.

CARNIVAL TIME The Italian jewellery brand Pasquale Bruni channels the spirit of Rio de Janeiro’s famous carnival in its new ‘Aleluia’ earrings, Portuguese for ‘Hallelujah’. The signature Pasquale Bruni undulating petal-esque shape is rendered in 18ct white gold and covered in emeralds and blue, pink and yellow sapphires.

INFINITY AND HEART Inspired by yoga’s lotus position, The Middle pendant by Danish designer Yana Nesper is a precious pyramid-shaped composition. The infinity symbol and heart, which represent our energetic centre, are joined by small diamonds. A bright South Sea pearl sits on top. Worn with a 90 cm, 18ct yellow gold chain, the front part is in yellow gold, while the back is in white gold and can also be rotated. This means that it can be worn in three ways: totally in yellow gold, white gold or two colours.

L I V E Y O U R PA S S I O N RUNABOUT C H R O N O G R A P H A U T O M AT I C frederiqueconstant.com

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JT2021 SUMMER 19 10/11/2021 3:06:41 PM

NEWS DRIVING AWAY EVIL Two pairs of 17th-century glasses were expected to fetch £1.5m-2.5m each at a Sotheby’s London auction in November. The jewel-encrusted spectacles, which feature lenses made from diamond and emerald rather than glass, are believed to have originally belonged to royals in the Mughal Empire, which once ruled over the Indian subcontinent. Designed to help the wearer reach enlightenment and ward off evil, the spectacles are an exceptionally rare example of Mughal jewellery craftsmanship, according to chairman of Sotheby's Middle East and India, Edward Gibbs. The items' rarity is also down to the sheer size of their gemstone lenses. The lenses in one pair, known

as the "Halo of Light" spectacles, are believed to have been cleaved from a single 200ct diamond found in Golconda, a region in the presentday Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. The green lenses of the second pair, dubbed the "Gate of Paradise," are meanwhile believed to have been cut from a Colombian emerald weighing over 300cts. Unfortunately, the glasses did not sell at auction: “Over the past month, these spectacular objects have been marvelled at wherever we exhibited them - from New York to Hong Kong to London. Anyone who has laid eyes on them is in no doubt that they are indeed something very special and we have every faith that the huge interest we have seen will

translate into a different result later down the line.” said a Sotheby’s spokesperson.

THE SECRET IS OUT At the height of the jazz age and into the Art Deco era of the 1920s, Van Cleef & Arpels channelled music and movement into long pearl necklaces, adorned with tassels, which were designed to be twirled well past midnight. These aesthetically distinctive necklaces were embellished with coloured precious stones, reflecting the style of the period and the fashion for ‘cocktail’ creations. Today, Van Cleef & Arpels is continuing this century-old tradition with a selection of new Pompon necklaces, each with a secret timepiece.

Van Cleef & Arpels Pompon Gaia transformable long necklace watch in yellow gold, with yellow sapphires, emeralds, malachite, turquoise, pearls, mother of pearl, diamonds and a quartz movement.

Colonial Heritage Antiques For Sale

Established business for sale in Cambridge. Family owned business for 48 years, Colonial Heritage is known throughout the North Island of New Zealand for its unique combination of Antique and new jewellery, secondhand books and antiques. With a long lease, the shop is located in the centre of Cambridge with excellent security and a large street frontage. Sale is due to the owner retiring. Owner can be contacted at sheldrick@colonialheritage.co .nz or 021 996 919. 20


When you can’t get there in person


The Italian Trade Agency, the Italian government agency that supports the business development of small and medium-sized Italian businesses, invites us to come on a journey through Italy and its ‘Extraordinary Italian’ jewellery companies. It’s an experience of 3D, images and videos depicting the beauty of Made in Italy. From gold, to silver, rare diamonds, to precious crystals, from emeralds, to corals, there’s an infinite world of Italian brands to discover on this curated online showroom… www.extraitajewelry.com.


Jewellery For Every Woman Amanda Marcucci



JT2021 SUMMER 21

Vendorafa Italy

Carlo Barberis

Asad Ventrella

Roberto Demeglio

EG Eleonora Ghilardi

Ladies Steel

Ladies Champaigne

Ladies 32mm & Gents 41mm case

Ladies Gold

Ladies Rose

Steel $199 Gold/Rose $229 Date Ronda Swiss designed movement 50 metres water resistant Raised index Guilloche dial Stainless steel case & bracelet e. sales@olympicwatch.com tel. 09 825 0061 for more info

22 JT2021 SUMMER

Gents Steel / Silver

Gents Steel / Black

Gents Steel / Blue

Gents Gold

Cameo Italiano

Franco Pianegonda

Giovanni Ferraris

Cristiana Perali

Roberto Coin

Carla Coral

JT2021 SUMMER 23

Finding magic

Ora tea-light set from silversmith Adam Veevers. Six textured elegant sterling silver tea light holders. Hand-made fine porcelain shades and a matching texture.

in metal The annual Goldsmiths’ Fair at the historic Goldsmiths’ Hall, London, takes place in the northern autumn, showcasing a curated selection of work by some of the best fine jewellers and contemporary silversmiths creating and hand-making in the UK today. This year’s selling and exhibition event was the first in-person London Fair since the start of the pandemic, attracting 130 exhibitors and highlighting work by recent graduates.

This year's event proving the unmatched importance of experiencing jewellery and silverware in real life, The emerging and established makers exhibiting at Goldsmiths’ Fair are chosen through a rigorous selection process which ensures the highest standards of both materials and craftsmanship. And each year up to ten graduate bursary places are awarded to support new talent.

Born in Edinburgh, raised in New Zealand, jeweller and fair exhibitor Sarah Herriot has been based in London since 1984. She continues to expand her knowledge and technical dexterity from her workshop at Cockpit Arts.

Sarah’s first career was as a banking software designer in the city. Many jewellery and silversmithing short courses and night classes later, she began to run her jewellery business alongside the city job, finally going fulltime

in 2005. Sarah says her intention is to create intelligent designs that bring aesthetic pleasure, as jewellery and also as objects in their own right.

From Sarah Herriot Design …

One-off ring in 18ct gold with textured surface, inspiration drawn from ceramics. Set with pink tourmaline.

Dune ring in silver.

A necklace of deconstructed pyramid shapes in silver with oxidised recesses and brushed finish.

Also among those exhibitors skilled in precious metals were …

Ingo Henn’s necklace is set with a yellow beryl of 50.67 carats that’s hand-carved to give the impression of a koi carp emerging from a solid, faceted gemstone. The beryl is contained within a ‘tank’ of 18ct white gold and adorned with 2.63 carats of diamonds.

The silver and gold plate Thistle locket by Victoria Walker features 16 moving petal clusters and more than 200 ‘prickles’ on the outer pod, Once turned upright, the stem is then pushed upwards to reveal the delicate flower in bloom. The final touch to this piece is the thistle leaf beside the locket, featuring a single ‘dew drop’ diamond.



The Curling Crest of a Wave sculptural ring in 18ct gold by Ute Decker

From Sarah Stafford, flora tassel pendants on silk cords with 18ct gold tips.

Elsa Tierney gold and silver Skia pendant, inspired by the movement of a marionette.

A baroque pearl is suspended to look almost weightless in this 18ct yellow gold Cloud ring from Leonid Dementiev.

Fred Rich’s slipper orchid brooch combines 18ct yellow gold and enamel with a deep yellow-orange zircon centre stone.

WDL0614 ZIRO NZ Trade_180x118_02_OL.indd 1

Cuff links 'Censored Anger' by Caiyang Yin.

The Rock Pool Colour Pop Ring by Jenny House, using 18ct yellow gold, blue sapphires and ceramic plating, looks like it’s been torn apart.

The Systematic Sonata Ring by Gearry Suen, who used hand-carved sandalwood, silver, 18ct gold, yellow and white diamonds, red spinels, green and blue sapphires, garnets, yellow zircon and Paraiba tourmalines.

Jessica Jue floral earrings in 22ct gold vermeil on sterling silver.

9/11/21 9:25 AM JT2021 SUMMER 27

Featuring a sapphire The British Academy of Jewellery announced the three winners Lisa Savage, Kristina Lindsay and Tabitha Sullivan - of ‘Adaptability, Versatility, Longevity’, a competition carried out in collaboration with renowned London jewellery brand Alex Monroe. The project challenged students from the first year of BAJ’s Jewellery Design & Manufacturing Diploma to design and make an original wearable jewellery piece in response to a competition brief set by Alex Monroe. Taking inspiration from the theme of transformation and the natural world, the “Adaptability, Versatility, Longevity” brief invited students to create versatile pieces that could be transformed to suit different situations. To challenge the throwaway fast-fashion culture students were encouraged to design durable, responsible pieces, each featuring a 5mm repurposed sapphire donated by the Alex Monroe brand.

Tabitha Sullivan’s piece titled Botanical Distortion.

The piece designed and made by Lisa Savage.

Kristina Lindsay’s ring from her project titled Milestones.

DOWN DEEP Auction house Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo offered the Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ at the. November Geneva Watch Auction: The museum quality stainless steel and gold Rolex ultra-deep dive wristwatch with centre seconds and a case inscribed: 23.1.60 and 35789 feet 10908 meters, was never before been publicly available for purchase. It garnered NZ$1,847,380.



Thank you to our 2022 JWNZ Trade Fair Sponsors

JWNZ Trade Fair in the City of Sails


Sunday 6th March 9.30am to 5.30pm RNZYS Westhaven, Auckland Visitor registration opens December 1 2021. Contact Craig Anderson for details.



The impact the current Covid-19 situation and the change to a new Covid-19 Protection Framework introducing a Red, Orange & Green level system will allow the Trade Fair to proceed under Orange and Green. For full terms and conditions please see page 8. Please call Craig Anderson to discuss this or if you would like further clarification, 021 596 988.

Meet the collector Italian entrepreneur and hotel owner Sandro Fratini owns more than 2,000 highly desirable watches, valued at more than one billion euros. “My story is a love story of watches,” says the collector as he relaxes in a chair at L’Orologio, his hotel in Florence. “I love the harmony they have inside; they have a soul.” Sandro’s passion began as an eight-year-old when he was given a steel-plated Longines for his first Holy Communion. “It was nothing special, a very simple watch, but I loved the movement of it,” he recalls. By the time he was 30, the heir to the internationally renowned Rifle jeans brand had begun to start collecting in earnest. What was your last watch you bought? “Two months ago, a steel Gerald Genta with Scrooge McDuck in the centre of the dial. I already have several. This brand didn’t enjoy a constant trend and increase as much as it deserved. Some, however, the ones with the best complications, are valued at hundreds of thousands of euros.” Which watches did not gain the value you hoped? “I have never bought a single watch with the intention of reselling it for profit. Especially since the real reason that urged me to start this collection was my love for watches. Therefore, I don’t think of myself as a true collector. “Among the pieces that, for me, are always wonderful yet did not achieve the right response on the market, are all the Rolexes in the Prince series, produced in the 1930s and ‘40s. I have about 40 and when I find one that I like, I buy it without thinking twice. I’m surprised that they weren’t successful. They haven’t lost value, but neither has their worth increased. I’m speaking of the Brancard and Railway models, classic and even asymmetrical. Each one more beautiful than the next. “Another brand that, in my opinion, did not live up to expectations, is the Movado. The chronographs are fantastic, with round buttons similar to those on a Patek, but slightly revamped. And yet, their value is the same now as when I bought them 30 years ago.”

Sandro Fratini.

been made and in the rarest and most elite stainless steel version, only four examples are known. A stainless steel model fetched US$11,000,000 at a 2016 Geneva auction. Your passion is such that a series of hotels on this theme has been created… “Yes, after the two L’Orologio hotels in Florence and Venice, in December, we will also be opening in Rome. Each one features references to fine watchmaking. I imagined them as places for enthusiasts as well as guests who love aesthetic details and accurate service. I think you can see that every decision comes from the heart.”

The original Rolex Princes pre-date the general use of centre seconds in wristwatches, but they do have a large seconds sub-dial, which led to them being referred to as ‘doctor’s watches’, (thanks to the relative ease the larger dial provides for such chores as timing respirations or pulse beats.)

Your favourite watch? “The rare steel Patek Philippe 1518. I have two. It represents everything I am looking for in a watch.” Patek Philippe produced 281 examples of the 1518 in the 1940s, with the vast majority encased in yellow gold. Approximately 55 versions in rose gold are estimated to have Steel Gerald Genta with Scrooge McDuck centrepiece.

30 JT2021 SUMMER

Rare steel Patek Philippe 1518.

Wearable sculptures Spirited bidding from buyers across the globe resulted in an exceptional outcome for Wearable Art: Jewels from The Crawford Collection, the first single-owner collection of artist jewellery ever presented at auction. Ninety-five percent of the 312 lots were sold at Bonhams Los Angeles October sale, totalling more than US$1.7 million.

Gold’ ‘Grand Faune’ by Pablo Picasso.

The top lots in the sale were a gold ‘Grand Faune’ pendant by Pablo Picasso that sold for US$62,813 and a piece by Native American artist Charles Loloma, which achieved $56,563 for his gold, turquoise, coral and lapis inlay cuff. Picasso’s Grand Faune matches lithographs made by the artist. While recognised most frequently for painting, Picasso explored jewellery throughout his life, alongside ceramics and sculpture Collector Jill Crawford said, “It has been my great passion and pleasure to own and wear the jewellery in my collection. Jewellery is meant to be worn, and in the hands of a passionate collector it becomes transcendent.”

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from the team at Twentyfive 7 Ltd Thank you for your wonderful support during 2021 – looking forward to better times next year Gold and multi-stone cuff by Charles Loloma.

E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz P. 021 751 115 JT2021 SUMMER 31

It’s in the bag Those who have a great passion for beautiful jewellery probably also indulge in an admiration for designer handbags…

Different diamond cuts set in engraved gold decorate the edges of Tabbah’s clutch.

The Darby Scott evening bag is set with 130 coloured stones over champagne silk.

In 2020, the House of Dior exhibited its exquisite Gem Clutch in satin with precious stones. The Gem Clutch is an exquisite reminder of Christian Dior’s endless love for flowers and the Bagatelle Park in Paris, in which 1,200 varieties of plants grow. Entirely made by hand, a rose, Monsieur Dior’s favourite bloom, graces the clasp of the handbag. With a wide range of colours to choose between, you can pick the bag that best matches your outfit, from emerald green to purple, pale pink to fuchsia, grey to red. Tabbah has been on the jewellery scene for over 150 years. Their assortment of jewellery ranges from family heirlooms to more contemporary lines. Written on the Maison’s Instagram, beneath one of the jewels, is a quote from Audrey Hepburn: “Nothing is impossible, the word itself says I’m possible!” Tabbah clutch bags are crafted from 18ct gold, engraved and set with coloured gemstones and diamonds. From a collection entitled The Vault, Darby Scott offers its customers sophisticated everyday handbags that are both functional and luxurious evening accessories. This one-of-a-kind evening edition is adorned with 130 faceted stones: amethysts, citrines, ametrine and topaz, alongside hundreds of diamonds. Since 1919, Buccellati has been offering its customers not only jewellery and watches but also a wide range of cutlery, figurines,

dinnerware, cigarette cases, keyrings, souvenirs and, of course, evening bags. Flash back to 1980 when Gianmaria Buccellati created a bag crafted from rigato-engraved silver and embellished with goldengraved flowers and leaves, with the clasp encrusted with 44 emeralds (0.97 carats), 17 rubies (0.69 carats) and 28 diamonds (0.63 carats). The Serpenti, which is crafted from crocodile skin and foil-covered in pure 24ct gold, is the most exquisite bag Bvlgari has ever created, reinforcing the link between the worlds of high jewellery and accessories. The iconic snakehead clasp is set with pavé diamonds, with tourmalines for eyes. Inside the purse there is a gold plaque that reads ‘Bulgari Limited Edition 1/1’, indicating that this is a completely unique creation.

Made of crocodile skin and 24ct gold the high jewellery Serpenti bag is the most precious bag Bvlgari has ever created.

Buccellati: Crafted from rigatoengraved silver and embellished with gold-engraved flowers and leaves, with the clasp encrusted with emeralds, rubies and 28 diamonds.

32 JT2021 SUMMER

A diamond and tsavorite rose graces the clasp of the Dior clutch bag.

OBITUARY - IAN BOND In October we lost a gem. Ian was born in Taihape where his father operated a retail jewellers shop H.D. Bond Ltd., which was consequently passed on to his brother Doug and is now owned by Ian’s nephew Murray. After his early years in Taihape, Ian was sent to Whanganui High School for the completion of his education. After school he moved to Whangarei and completed a watchmaking apprenticeship with Fishers the Jewellers and was one of the early members of the trade to study and complete an F.G.A. Ian’s next career move was to Delmonte and Patience Ltd. in Auckland where he managed a new division selling diamond rings, however, his desire to travel and set up in business on his own saw him moving to outback Australia, working to get enough capital ($8k) to start The House of Bond. He started working from his flat in Auckland with a dozen rings and selling Olympic watches on commission to pay expenses. Ian then established an office in the city with his sister, June, as office manager and became a very successful wholesaler, eventually moving to Mt Eden and changing into manufacturing, which lead to opening an office in Queensland and exporting to Australia, the Pacific and other markets. Ian was joined by his daughter Monique in 2002 and they worked together until 2012 when she married and moved to the USA. In 2015 Ian sold the House of Bond to Sahill Wadwa, of Star Gems and retired. Ian had a love of the jewellery business and all the people in it. He contributed well Ian Bond beyond his own interests and always made decisions with a view to the greater good. He served the Jewellers and Watchmakers of N.Z Inc at all levels becoming the National President 1986-1988 and was responsible for establishing the Trade Fair at Ellerslie, which served the industry as a centre point for many years. He was made a Life Member of the JWNZ to honour his contribution to the industry. Ian was a devoted family man, married to Gwen; and loved by his daughters Sarah and Monique and his three grandchildren. His interests were Newmarket Rotary, The Northern Club, Ngauruhoe Ski Club, Royal Auckland and Grange Golf Club, Remuera Golf Club and Pauanui Golf Club, travel, sailing, gardening and time with his close friends. - Ron Avery, President 1982-84, JWNZ Life Member

beautiful reproduction antique jewellery, the perfect Christmas gift! A huge selection of earrings, rings, necklets, bangles and brooches (featured brooch: 55-151R, also available in blue). Handcrafted in sterling silver, bead set with Swarovski marcasites and semi-precious stones. Something to suit every age and taste.

Contact: AM IMPORTS PTY LTD, www.amimports.com or NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown, M: 021-751 115, E: susi@twentyfive7.co.nz JT2021 SUMMER 33

Design time The 40th HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and the ninth Salon de TE held at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre in September, not only welcomed industry buyers, but also opened their doors to the general public during the whole fair period for the first time. The five-day physical fairs attracted around 4,900 buyers and more than 23,600 public visitors to shop for timepieces. Alongside the event the 38th Hong Kong Watch & Clock Competition identified local design talent. This year’s competition was once again divided into the Open Group and the Student Group, adopting the themes of ‘Minimalism’ and ‘Live Fully’ respectively. About 90 entries were received, from which a panel of 10 judges from various sectors selected the winning entries. The champion in the Open Group was Tam Kwok-tung for his design titled ‘SPACE_BAR’. Housed in a transparent container, the design encapsulates the simplicity of the watch’s movements. The first runner-up prize was claimed by the Ballerina Watch Company Limited and its design ‘Singing Bowl’. The design forgoes a


traditional watch crown to accentuate the unified and symmetrical watch case design. In the Student Group, Yip Tszyan was crowned champion for her design ‘Insight’. Her watch’s bezel and glass are made with a diamond-cut design and the case-back contains fancy glass that refracts light and reflects colours. Ho See-long claimed first runner-up with her design titled ‘Serendipity’. The design reflects the idea that the happiness and fortune people seek may already be surrounding them and that every trivial matter in daily life can be a miracle. The Group winners will be sponsored to attend the INHORGENTA MUNICH 2022 trade fair in Germany.

Singing Bowl



RETAILERS REVIEW BY SUSI CHINNERY-BROWN Unlike many wholesalers in the trade, I have been lucky enough to be in Level 2 for a while and managed to get out and about a fair bit. Squeaked in a trip to Hamilton and Te Awamutu just before lockdown and have since been round the whole South Island, Wellington region and back up the East Coast and Bay of Plenty. Business has been reasonable for most, but definitely not the big bounce-back after the lockdown of 2020. Manufacturing jewellers and specialist watch shops/repairs have been really busy, while retail sales have been ‘steady’. Many told me that people have been out doing Christmas shopping early, obviously worried about how supplies will hold out closer to Christmas, with imported goods taking so much longer to arrive. It’s never been a better time to promote locally made jewellery, one-off hand mades and re-modelling of favourite pieces. Everyone will be holding their breath that the vaccination rates reach the magic targets and the traffic light system kicks into place, in time. Fingers crossed. Wishing you all a very happy and successful Christmas trade and peace in the New Year. - Susi Chinnery-Brown, 021 751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz 36 JT2021 SUMMER

All about sterling silver What is sterling silver? Sterling silver is a metal containing at least 92.5% silver. This is the legal standard of purity set by the assay offices in Britain and used for most silver jewellery throughout the world. It means that the metal used is of a specific quality. Pure silver is never used, as it is too soft to be practical. Why does sterling silver tarnish? Tarnishing of sterling silver is not attributable to the manufacturing process of making jewellery from this metal. Sterling silver jewellery items that are exposed to air will tarnish with time. As sterling silver is a mixture of metals with at least 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, it is the other metals, usually copper that oxidises, resulting in the build-up of a tarnished layer on sterling silver jewellery. Sterling silver tarnishes faster in areas with high humidity and air pollution. Additionally, contact with materials like cosmetics, hairspray, perfume, deodorant, body lotion, bleach, etc, can speed up the tarnishing process. The silver in your ring may also become oxidised by reacting with acids in your skin, the moisture in perspiration, or by reacting with some other lotion or chemical on your skin. Sterling silver jewellery stored on jewellery pads or in jewellery boxes may tarnish more quickly, due to the glues that may have been used in the manufacture of those items. Areas in New Zealand with high sulphur content in the air, such as Rotorua, can result in rapid tarnishing of your sterling silver jewellery. Visits to hot pools and spas can also have a similar effect. Remember to remove rings and other jewellery while applying make-up. Using soap and water, clean the areas of your skin that will come into contact with the jewellery, making sure all soap is rinsed off and your hands are dry. Cleaning tarnished sterling silver A solution is to use a silver cloth to polish your jewellery, or a silver jewellery cleaning solution. Always follow the instructions provided by the cleaning cloth or cleaning solution manufacturer to ensure safe cleaning of your jewellery. Take note in regards any special instructions for the cleaning of gemstone-set sterling silver items.

Karen Walker Star Outline sterling silver ring.

JT2021 SUMMER 37

Merivale, Christchurch. Ph 03 356 3587 Email: sales@watchparts.co.nz

JWNZ PRESIDENT’S REPORT Last year, 2020, we had our first nationwide lockdown, followed by further, comparatively short lockdowns in Auckland. Everyone was ecstatic when they ended, believing we had kept the virus at bay. There was an air of excitement - a bit like “school’s out!”. There was a flurry of spending activity, most businesses reported increased sales and the economy bounced back. This year, 2021, the Delta variant arrived, and there hasn’t been any post-lockdown euphoria, with Auckland, in particular, continuing to suffer enormously with a prolonged, very restrictive lockdown. The threat of catching Delta still hangs over everyone throughout the country and Auckland’s continued restrictions have impacted hugely on businesses nationwide. Having said that, I have heard anecdotally that a number of small

goldsmith businesses in quieter places throughout New Zealand have been very busy. With the new measures (traffic light system) in place before Christmas, things should soon pick up for everyone. The biggest problem is going to be supply. The JWNZ trade fair and the AGM have been postponed until March 2022. Accordingly, I will stay as President until that date. Meanwhile, the organisation has been busy looking at other benefits that could be of interest to members. More will be revealed if and when they manifest themselves. Sadly, we have lost people this year with the passing of Trevor Scott (Wellington), Gary Chapman (Wellington), Keith Plier (Palmerston North) and Past-President Ian Bond (Auckland). On behalf of the JWNZ I would like to record our











Brian Barrett.

condolences. In closing, I wish everyone compliments of the season and best wishes for good trading during the festive and holiday period. - Brian Barrett, JWNZ President Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz

GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ The Goldsmiths Guild AGM was postponed again due to Covid restrictions. The indications are that, with increased vaccination rates and with the new guidelines set out by the Health Ministry, we might be able to progress on that front - perhaps sometime in the new year. In the meantime, I encourage you to display your Goldsmiths Guild Certificate, as well as your Trade Certificate and to keep pushing the fact that you are a member of the Goldsmiths Guild. Always use your Makers Mark, and the Goldsmiths Guild stamp when appropriate. All this helps to emphasis and promote you as a qualified goldsmith and instils confidence in consumers towards their jeweller. The Guild is not in a position to advertise itself, but if enough members actively promote themselves in these small ways the whole Guild and its members will benefit. Consumers will slowly come to understand that when they want to have a bespoke item of jewellery made, they will need to find a qualified goldsmith. 38



The Goldsmiths Guild Health and Safety manual is an important item for the members workshop and your copy should now be brought up to date with the new safety guidelines from MOH pertaining to the present Covid-19 outbreak. All that information can be found at the Ministry of Health website - health. govt.nz. I have been saddened to learn of the passing of two of our members recently, both of whom I have known since arriving in New Zealand in the early seventies. Trevor Scott trained in Blenheim and moved to Wellington in the seventies. He originally owned a shop in Cuba Street, in partnership with Paul Madden. He and Ronda then ran Gold Ore Silver Mine in the Left Bank for many years. Trevor was well known in the Wellington scene always the friendly cheerful jeweller to both his customers and others in the jewellery trade. Gary Chapman worked as a qualified jeweller at Clements and Holmes during the seventies and Ian Douglas was his apprentice. After










a surfing accident left Gary with tendon damage in his left hand he turned his good hand to engraving and setting. He became very proficient in both these skills and was widely respected in the trade. Ian later went on to open his own business, The Village Goldsmith, and employed Gary as his “right-hand man” until Gary recently retired at 80+. Both Trevor and Gary were very enthusiastic and supportive of the Guild and Gary especially was often in attendance at our Wellington meetings. Both will be missed as part of the Wellington jewellery scene and we offer sympathy and condolences to their respective families. I hope you all have a prosperous and happy time over the holiday period and I look forward to catching up with members in person when we can. Be kind and patient and things will work out for the best. - Brian Barrett, GGNZ Chairman Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz












A long time ago I wrote about CousinsUk’s court case against the Swatch group and its restriction of parts to watch material supply houses. The industry had been waiting with bated breath as a ruling had been due to be made in March or April of this year, but had been delayed due to backlog in Swiss courts. CousinsUK issued this update on 20 October, 2021. “The dispute between Cousins Material House Limited and three companies of the Swatch Group before the Commercial Court of the Canton of Berne on the question of whether Swatch can simply stop supplying spare parts to a long-time wholesaler has been pending for five years now. Cousins hoped to be able to speed up the proceedings somewhat by waiving the oral hearing, but unfortunately this was not the case, apparently also because the responsible law clerk of the court has changed. According to an oral information from the court this summer, however, the judgment should be ready around the fall/autumn vacation period, which means that it should be issued shortly.” https://www.cousinsuk.com/page/news Their hopes have been buoyed by the recent introduction of the ‘Washing Machine Rules’ in the UK, which will force whiteware manufacturers to make spare parts available to independent repairers and end users for their products, for a minimum of between seven and 10 years, along with a requirement for parts to be able to be replaced using common tools. The long-term goal is to prevent manufacturers from producing products with built-in obsolescence and reducing the 1.5 million tons of electrical waste generated in the UK every year. In the United States, Joe Biden has signed an executive order aimed at promoting economic competition and asked the Federal Trade Commission to implement rules to reduce anti-competitive restrictions that limit consumers’ ability to have products repaired by service people of their own choosing or perform repairs themselves. The initial targets of these new laws are tech manufacturers - specifically cell phones and farm machinery - where the likes of John Deer heavily restrict the distribution of spare parts and the diagnostic and repair tools needed to perform work on their products. These laws will obviously have a huge effect on other industries such as watch making. There is also a large upswell of support for the ‘Right To Repair’ in Australia. The Australian Productivity Commission has just handed its report on the ‘Right To Repair’ to the Australian Government. Submissions were received from a wide variety of industries, including watchmaking. The report addresses things like the distribution of repair information, tools and spare parts and the voiding of manufacturers warranties if a product is assessed by a non-authorised repairer. The draft report can be read here https://www.pc.gov.au/inquiries/completed/repair/draft. We look forward to seeing how the Australian handles this report and what, if any benefits come from it. As always, my door is always open. – Nick Parker, nick@pilbrowswatchmaker.co.nz, Ph 03 351 1320. JT2021 SUMMER 39

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc. M E M BE R BE N E FITS:

JWNZ Member Benefits:

Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication. JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry. Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.


Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.

JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz Press Releases Consumer Information

Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy. BUSINESS SERVICES: ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking. ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.


Crombie Lockwood Insurance Brokers - Business, Personal and Travel insurances. CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.

Business & Personal Banking

Merchant Facilities

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions. Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales. Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions. Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables. Vodafone - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband Vodafone - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION:

Telecommunication Services

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand - Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training. TRADE & COMMERCE:


Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development. 40













MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR The JWNZ Executive and National Council wishes all members and families a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. We thank you for your continued and valued support of the JWNZ during another very challenging year. It is greatly appreciated.

2022 JWNZ TRADE FAIR A commitment to holding the 2021 Trade Fair was made by the JWNZ Trade Fair Committee after the cancellation of our 2020 Trade Fair. However, the Covid-19 pandemic prevented us from having the event on the original and subsequent dates that were advertised. The 2021 JWNZ Trade Fair was cancelled and a new date 6 March 2022 has been set in place. Communication with the venue, the RNZYS and Exhibition Hire and Event Solutions has resulted in us retaining our venue and services that are required for us to hold the event. The continuing impact of the Covid-19 pandemic and its impact on events with restrictions on numbers means the Trade Fair Committee will be keeping an eye on changes in levels, that may impact on the new scheduled date. The JWNZ greatly appreciates the ongoing support and commitment to our Trade Fair sponsors and exhibitors who have committed to the event in 2022.

JWNZ MEMBER SURVEY Thank you to those who took the time to complete and return the Members Matter Survey. If you haven’t already completed and returned it, please do so as your input will help formulate a plan for the future of your organisation.

JWNZ MEETINGS The cancellation of the Trade Fair also meant the associated meetings that were to take place were also cancelled. These meetings have been rescheduled and are to be held on 5 March 2022.

Craig Anderson.

NATIONAL OFFICE TELEPHONE CONTACT The National Office no longer has a landline telephone number. The only telephone number for the National Office is 021 59 69 88.

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY REGISTRATION BOARD OF NEW ZEALAND - JIRBNZ Apprentices, both manufacturing jewellers and watchmakers, are an integral part of the future of our industry. The JWNZ sees apprenticeships as a vital facet of the industry and financially supports the JIRBNZ and its administration of these. Look to the future and if you are able to take on an apprentice, please give consideration to doing so. For further information contact Grant Harrison, JIRBNZ Commissioner of Apprentices - T 0276 930 001 or E info@jirbnz.org.nz.

CONTACT DETAIL FOR JWNZ INC. NATIONAL OFFICE Craig Anderson, JWNZ Inc. Executive Secretary PO Box 16007, Hornby, Christchurch 8441 T 021 59 69 88 - E info@jwnz.co.nz

NZ POST Accounts We are aware there are JWNZ members who have had their NZ Post Accounts cancelled. This was due to, we understand, NZ Post’s policy of closing accounts with a less than $5,000 annual spend. This came as a surprise as there was no warning or contact from NZ Post to the National Office advising such action would be taken. The National Office has contacted NZ Post regarding this matter and has resulted in the reinstatement of financial members NZ Post accounts. If this has happened to you and are currently a JWNZ Financial Member please contact Craig Anderson to discuss. The JWNZ and NZ Post are currently in the process of ensuring that JWNZ financial members are listed to avail themselves of the terms of our longstanding agreement. NZ Post Deliveries The Covid-19 pandemic has greatly impacted the delivery services that are offered to members by NZ Post. Substantial increases in parcel numbers have meant delays across New Zealand. NZ Post has advised that Auckland was the most affected, with delays of up to a week in some cases. So, thinking it’s an overnight delivery is no longer an option. Please consider this when offering delivery business to business or business to customer. Planning for incoming and outgoing parcels is a must at present and in the future. For further information NZ Post have updates on their website through this link - www.nzpost.co.nz/contactsupport/domestic-delivery-updates JT2021 SUMMER 41

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY REGISTRATION BOARD It was unfortunate that JWNZ Trade fair couldn’t proceed and that meant for us that we had to adapt to holding a weekend that included having our AGM by Zoom and allowing the eight candidates who were seeking to become Trade Certified as Qualified, to sit their 2021 Trade Certificate examination simultaneously and remotely. Extra effort was needed to write and paginate the exam, so it could be emailed out, along with interacting with each candidate, their employers and supervisors individually. This number sitting will flow on to next year, with therefore at least eight more tradespersons becoming qualified next year. A big part of this is encouraging their employer to take on a first-year apprentice to fill their shoes, if they haven’t done so already. 2021 was a great year for apprentice training for our trade and it was satisfying to receive the amount of contact I have had with employers wanting an apprentice or tradesperson. Everyone I have spoken to have reported that they are “the busiest they have ever been.” Unfortunately, some contacts were from those who haven’t already taken on an apprentice and now find themselves needing a thirdyear apprentice or a Qualified Tradesperson. Realistically I can’t do much about that, any more than to support the employers who have made the commitment to take apprentices on and to fully support those who are now prepared to do so. Having four new apprentices currently to start, it is important to understand that as an industry, this is a four-year commitment to supporting the continuation of the delivery of training to them and also supporting their employer. This upswing in demand for highly skilled employees is also coupled with one of the biggest shakeups of vocational training in New Zealand in 40 years - RoVE (Reform of Vocational Training). This is huge and in a nutshell, all of the established ITOs (Industry Training Organisations) are being closed and replaced with WDCs (Workplace Development Councils). The differences are vast and this is the time for us as an Industry to be seen to continue to do what we are doing very well and as remarked by one government agency, “this apprentice training is a perfect example of industry led training.” This is again where the support of our banner Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

Puri Panekiretanga – Keeping Standards High

Sponsors 2021



apprentice supporters really comes into play and allows JIRBNZ to offer significant subsidies to encourage and aid both employers and new apprentices. Currently we are asking for their continued support for 2021-2022 period and let me make it quite clear that without the support of these firms below, we would have collapsed many years ago. The photo, which was sent to me from apprentice Ben Betteridge from GBJS Tirau, highlights the difficulties Ben is facing to complete his theory, having some cleaning up of his desk to do. No, it wasn’t a raid, but rather that an offender driving a stolen car, on seeing a local police car pull over panicked and immediately swerved to avoid attention. Unfortunately, the shop was in the way. Funny, but not funny and as someone who has been involved in three armed hold-ups, one of which resulted in one person shot dead. This pays to remind apprentices and shop staff alike that if a person confronts you, they may be highly agitated and not thinking logically. Take care of yourselves, all else can be replaced. Have a great Christmas.

– Grant Harrison, Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand M: 0276930001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES WHEN THE STARS COME OUT TO PLAY The magic of stars: The elegant necklace is a piece of art made of blackened 925 sterling silver. It is decorated with seven stars in different sizes, which are delicately crafted by hand. All of them are adorned with round cut stones in prong or bezel settings. The special highlight: Dark blue inlays of imitated sandstone give the centre star an impressive, sparkling effect. The necklace has an extension chain, which has eyelets at 40, 42,5 and 45 cm. Its end has a small pendant embellished with a star element and a dark blue glass-ceramic stone. Thomas Sabo - Royalty Stars silver necklace: $699.00.

Cosmic lucky charm: Stars represent unity, hope and luck. The moon is a cosmic signpost. Both symbols are artistically combined within the mix & match style ear pendants made of blackened 925 sterling silver. The crescent moon and the star are designed with many details and handcrafted with intensely shining round cut stones. The earrings are inspired by the sparkling nocturnal sky and decorated on the back side with an engraved moon or star. Thomas Sabo - Royalty Star & Moon Silver Earrings: $119.00.

Inspired by the night sky. The moveable moon and star element in the centre is the highlight of this highly detailed signet ring, which is made from blackened 925 sterling silver. It turns on its own axis, is designed with cut-outs and adorned with glass-ceramic stones, synthetic spinel and zirconia stones. Choose the side that fits your mood: Turn upwards either the one that is decorated with sparkling colourful stones, or the clean one. Thomas Sabo - Royalty Star & Moon silver ring: $269.00.

WITH AN EYE ON DETAIL The everyday piece your bracelet collection is missing, this delicately crafted evil eye chain is the perfect balance of simple style and detail. Discover the unique evil eye feature in the collection’s signature embossed mother-of-pearl set on a dainty chain, perfect for wrist stacking. Ania Haie - Evil Eye gold bracelet: $89.

There’s no need to choose between subtle style and detail with this stunning yet simple necklace. Perfect for wearing alone or adding to a layered necklace look, the collection’s signature evil eye feature is set on a delicately crafted chain. Made with this season’s mother-of-pearl, embrace the contemporary pearl trend alongside this subtle touch of symbolism. Ania Haie - Evil Eye gold necklace: $119.

The ultimate protective symbolism, our evil eye collection wouldn’t be complete without this statement adjustable ring. Crafted with an open back for the perfect fit on any finger, discover this stunning embossed mother-of-pearl ring with unique evil eye inspired detailing. Ania Haie Evil Eye Emblem gold adjustable ring: $99.00.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent, helen@thebrandagent.co.nz. Ph 64 27 7222 6000. JT2021 SUMMER 43

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES TIME TO SHINE New additions to the BOCCIA vegan Appleskin watch range in five colourways from subtle Stone Grey to vibrant red Winery. Pure titanium retro case shape, 33mm, sapphire crystal, 3 BAR. Models 3334-01, 02, 03, 04 & 05.

The long-awaited new automatics have arrived with two black dial options, colour matched lunette, sapphire crystal, 10 BAR and seethrough case back. Models 3653-01 and 3653-02.

Brand new to the BOCCIA pure titanium jewellery range, a delightful collection of necklaces, earrings (studs and drops) and bracelets, polished and gold plated. Set with pink and green tourmalines. Singles or as a set, this 100% allergy free jewellery will make a perfect gift for someone special.

Contact: Susi Chinnery-Brown, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz, Ph. 021 751 115. 44



Bijoux cluster earrings. Silver Perle Pink Featuring the unique freshwater pearl and chain sterling silver cluster necklace. A single pink pendant on a stud style freshwater pearl hangs earring for a strong and from a sterling silver chain bold look. to create a long, easyto-wear, classic pearl necklace. Contact: Helen Thompson-Carter, +64 274 203 137, helen@fabuleuxvous.com

Silver Perle Pink pearl earrings. Three pink pearls are paired with sterling silver chain to create these timeless and beautiful earrings.

Bijoux cluster necklace. Hanging on a sterling silver chain is the bijoux cluster pendant. An every day and night kind of necklace.

RIGHT NOW AND RUNWAY READY Welcome to the Maserati Stile Collection: watches that take up the mechanics, construction and stylistic codes of the iconic sporting watchmaking timepieces. The decisive lines, the distinctive decagonal bezel and the slim case are combined with details that strongly identify the sporting world such as: pump pushers, screw-down crown, multi-level dial, applied luminescent indexes, luminescent hands and a buckle with a personalised butterfly clasp featuring the applied Trident. Maserati - Stile Two Tone 45mm Chronograph - RRP $749 NZD, SKU: R8873642002. Presenting the Diamond Heart Collection by Chiara Ferragni. Featuring 90s inspired pieces with a sense of gravitas, the Diamond Heart Silver Chain Bracelet has 3-micron palladium platinum plating and is finished with a rhodium plating to preserve the high sparkle elegance. Embedded with crystal cut heart stones along the length, the chain is perfect for finishing a variety of outfits. Chiara Ferragni –: Diamond Heart Silver Chain Tennis Bracelet, NZD $529, SKU : J19AUV01.

Introducing the Nordgreen x Christopher collaboration. The latest limited-edition watches are designed to complement the redefined Philosopher watch line with elegant matte black dial, envisioned by Christopher and designed by Jakob Wagner. With each watch sold, a child in need from the developing countries will receive a round of chemotherapy. In association with the World Child Cancer NGO. Nordgreen Christopher X Philosopher Watch - RRP $379 AUD, SKU: PH40GO3LGOBLCH. The new Sliced Stone sourced exclusively for the Noel Nights Collection by Georgini is the first of its kind to hit the market. This new stunning cut of cubic zirconia offers a sophisticated and sleek look, with minimal facets and optimal sparkle. Gold plated 925 sterling silver. Georgini: Noel Nights Sliced Stone Set – IR498G: $99/IP860G: $109/IE1024G: $89 NZD. Contact: West End Collection, Ph 61 3 9553 3777, Ph 021 400 053, nick@westendcollection.com.au, www. westendcollection.com.au JT2021 SUMMER 45



From Ikecho Australia, 9ct yellow gold Freshwater Pearl Edison white round 9mm ring. Product code: IP134-RYG-EDI. Contact: Ikecho Australia, P: 612 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.com.au, www.ikecho.com.au

The featured black and white zirconium rings are just a few of the latest epic designs to invigorate the ZiRO collection. ZiRO point of sale includes displays, brochures, counter cards, posters and social media assets.

BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS Evolve’s new Birthstone Collection features beautiful botanical designs, paired with sparkling cubic zirconia stones emulating natural gemstones. These treasured New Zealand designs are perfect for celebrating your or a loved one’s birthday.

December (Friendship) January (Protection) February (Wisdom) Contact: sales@evolve-jewellery.co.nz, P. 07 281 1509, evolve-jewellery.co.nz

Contact: Worth & Douglas Ltd, Ph 64 9 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz, www.worthdouglas.com


Watch Collectors box available in five or ten watch sizes and in walnut or matt black. Black velvet lining showcases and protects the collection. Watch winder and watch storage. Dimensions (mm): 80H x 340W x 130D (5 watch model) and 80H x 340W x 210D (10 watch model). 5 Watch: $219.95 10 Watch: $274.95. Order in December and receive 15% off (while stocks last). Contact: Pacific Industries 2000 Ltd, T/A Pacific Time Industries 2000, Ph 03 354 3156, sales@watchparts.co.nz, www.watchparts.co.nz


Have your work done by our Master Jewellers, each with 45 years of experience. Custom work, Cad Designing and 3D Cad Prints. High quality repairs and Laser polished Platinum are our passion.

New Zealand Findings are importers and wholesalers of quality Sterling Silver and Gold jewellery findings for manufacturing jewellers and retail jewellery stores. PH. 09 478 9950



E. info@nzfindings.co.nz

W. nzfindings.co.nz


Supporting retailers with the best ranges of quality Clocks, guaranteed. Pronto Clock Company Ltd Ph 07 880 9795 info@prontoclocks.co.nz Contact us for your nearest Agent.

• Quality Akoya & Freshwater Pearls • Unique semi-precious necklaces • BOCCIA Titanium Watches & jewellery • ESSE Marcarsite Sterling Silver jewellery PO Box 62, Morrinsville 3340, New Zealand I E: susi@twentyfive7.co.nz P: +64 7 889 3545 I M: + 64 21 751 115

New Zealand’s leading Safe & Vault specialists.




Bullion Safes Jewellery Safes Cash Safes Modular Vaults & Vault doors


Ph: 0800 723 365 JT2021 SUMMER 47



HAND ENGRAVING GEM STONES – Precious, Semi Precious

141 Holly Road (03) 366 9332 St Albans argosy.jewellery@gmail.com Christchurch 8014

Carl Yung Gems Ltd Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available. P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland. Ph: 09-623 2078 Fax: 623 2080 Email: info@carlyung.com

Philip Green

Watchmaker NZHI, JWNZ P 09 536 7148 M 021 718 723 9 Maria Tini Drive, Papamoa 3118 p 07 5749410 f 07 5749411 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz

E mastertime@xtra.co.nz www.mastertime.co.nz

68 Pine Harbour Parade, Beachlands, Auckland 2018

Window and Undercounter Displays, Freeform Displays and Packaging

When Presentation Counts

Award-Winning Agency

NZ Jewellery Photography Contact Quentin on 0800 467 8932 | quentosity.co.nz

NEW LINEN RANGE These new linen displays are the perfect solution for highlighing your jewellery designs into one eye catching presentation. Availiable in a range of colours and styles

View our whole range on our Website www.shonrei.co.nz

Directory Advertising $150.00 each

for Standard Business Card size advertisement

$400.00 for 4 issues (1 year) Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland. Phone 09 - 378 1222 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: inklink@xtra.co.nz 48 JT2021 SUMMER

Contact Us Tel: +64 03 578 4850 - Freephone: 0800 55 77 88 Email: sales@shonrei.co.nz

2022 2021 WINTER


Merry Christmas

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The crew at Jewellery Time would like to thank our loyal advertisers and contributors. 2021 has again thrown us some curve balls, but with 30 years behind us now and good support from our industry we look forward to 2022 and our JWNZ Trade Fair on March 6. To all a very Merry Christmas, may the season be prosperous and the New Year a great one. Deadlines for the next three issues are: 2022 Autumn Trade Fair Special Booking and Editorial: February 10, Ad Material: February 17, Magazine Posted: February 24

2022 Winter Booking and Editorial: May 16, Ad Material: May 23, Magazine Posted: May 30

2022 Spring Booking and Editorial: August 10, Ad Material: August 17, Magazine Posted: August 24

If you have new vision, give us a call to discuss how we can help. Any support the trade can give us is welcomed. It you have an advt., new products to promote, or an editorial feature suggestion, please get in touch.

Debbie (advertising) and Debra (editorial) inklink@xtra.co.nz 09 378 1222 / 0274 777 955

chaucer@xtra.co.nz 021 185 6846

Quasar Diamond is New Zealand’s foremost diamond authority. Each Quasar diamond is carefully selected by qualified diamond experts for complete peace of mind. Purchasing a Quasar Certified diamond is your ethical guarantee of both sustainability and exceptional quality.



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sales@nzgem.co.nz, 0800 NZ GEM (0800 69 43 67), P +64 9 377 3855, @quasardiamondsnz, quasardiamonds.com