JT Autumn 2023

2023 AUTUMN

DESIGN IN TITANIUM

Publisher/Advertising Editor

Debbie Whiting Debra Douglas

Phone: 09 378 1222 Mobile: 021 185 6846

Mobile: 0274 777 955 chaucer@xtra.co.nz inklink@xtra.co.nz

www.jewellerytime.co.nz

Jewellers & Watchmakers

PO Box 16007, Hornby, Christchurch 8441, New Zealand

Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz

Digital Copies

Digital copies of our previous four issues are available at www.jewellerytime.co.nz and www.jwnz.co.nz.

Terms and Conditions

Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

InkLink Publications Ltd. publishes Jewellery Time on behalf of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated reserves the right at any time and without notice or liability to any party cancel, omit or alter any editorial or advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material.

Copyright

Reproduction rights in part or full of the contents of this magazine must be obtained with the permission of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and or the publisher.

Disclaimer

The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are purely those of the authors and are not necessarily the official views of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated nor those of the publisher.

UPCOMING JT DEADLINES

WINTER 2023

BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: MAY 11

AD MATERIAL: MAY 18

MAGAZINE POSTED: MAY 25

SPRING 2023

BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: AUGUST 9

AD MATERIAL: AUGUST 16

MAGAZINE POSTED: AUGUST 23

SUMMER 2023

BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: NOVEMBER 3

AD MATERIAL: NOVEMBER 10

MAGAZINE POSTED: NOVEMBER 27

Published by InkLink Publications

PO Box 46-218, Herne Bay, Auckland 1147

Design/Prepress by Rex Eade, Eade Gallery, Ph 027 286 0438, rex@eadegallery.co.nz

Printed by Soar Communications Group Ltd (SCG)

2023

The official magazine of The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

Retro style BOCCIA, pure titanium, sapphire crystal, 3 bar with vibrant green Appleskin vegan leather strap, 33 mm case - Model 3334-02 (also available in grey 01, mustard 03, pink 04 and wine 05). Also a NEW addition to the jewellery range. A delicate dress ring set with four tourmalines - Model ref: 0152-01.

To view the full range, contact: Susi Chinnery-Brown, Twentyfive 7 Ltd, Ph 021-751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

The Pacific Time team is excited to showcase our extensive range of watch parts - including quality watch straps, batteries, tools and accessories, all available at competitive pricing from our online store.

Introducing Kim Mackay, JWNZ member and owner of Wicken Jewellery, Ponsonby, Auckland.

Have you always been involved with the jewellery trade? No, I have been a jewellery designer for seven years. I started Wicken at the age of 43. Tell us the background to Wicken Jewellery … Wicken started after a truly inspiring trip to London and Paris in 2015.

On the flight back home to NZ I suffered a life-threatening medical event, having two pulmonary embolisms on board, due to the long haul flight. Surviving this brought me a renewed perspective on life. About three months later I woke at 4am and had the name of my brand, the designs and their meanings. I started drawing and writing. This went on for some months until I did a jewellery course at Peter Minturn in Kingsland and then started selling Wicken at markets around Auckland in 2016. Wicken was very well received by our customers and the healing of the pieces were undeniable, so we quickly grew through word of mouth and opened the first Wicken store in 2018.

Where did the name ‘Wicken’ come from? The name Wicken literally appeared to me, it is the spelling of Wicca, which is what our pieces are based on, but with a K which usually associates with high Magick. My name is Kim, so I’m sure that is also part of it.

What sets Wicken apart from the norm? It has a beautiful bo-ho vibe and customers often comment they feel they have been drawn into another world. The combination of elegant contemporary design with old world magic drawing on the feminine goddess connects strongly with customers, uplifting and empowering them. Our customers have experiences of healing that is surprising to them and come back for different pieces as they need them.

Why choose Ponsonby to set up your business? I had a pop-up store at Ponsonby Central for most of 2017 and built a good customer base and made

friends in the Ponsonby community. When I began looking for a store, it seemed like the natural place to be. What makes your collections extra special … Our collections have unique designs that don’t follow any ‘trends’, they are all designed for healing, guidance and empowerment. We also have spectacular stones that are specially designed and cut for us. Will 2023 see Wicken Jewellery adding to its collections? And if so, can you give us a heads up on its content? We have a new collection coming in April 2023 so watch this space!

Do you have any other major ‘happenings’ for your jewellery in 2023? We have recently started stocking Wicken at a store on Melrose Ave in Los Angeles and also Soho, New York.

We understand you have exhibited your pieces at Milano Jewelry Week 2022 … what was the reaction to your range and why did you choose that event to exhibit your pieces? The reaction to Wicken at MJW was amazing! Our pieces were very well received by the press, buyers and other jewellers.

We were interviewed for podcasts, and showcased in Huessers magazine and several European influencers’ social media pages. Of course, everyone also loved we were from Aotearoa NZ! We were asked to participate at MJW and decided it was a great opportunity to accept, as we were looking to expand internationally.

Tell us about two special/memorable moments in your working career ... The first one is Pink! Pink visited our store with her daughter Willow in 2018 and we had a great chat about full moon rituals and other witchy things! Pink purchased a ring for herself and Willow. The next day Jenny May Douglas, who is Pinks backup singer, came in and bought pieces of Wicken for herself, Pink, the backup singers and the crew.

The second would be launching our beautiful ‘Green witch‘ collection. We had the honour of having Rachel Hunter model the collection and have become good friends. We had a 12hour photo shoot on Waiheke Island with incredible photographers who had come in from Hawaii.

In another life, is there another career you would have liked to have pursued? Prior to starting Wicken I was a hairdresser, owning two salons. Now there is no other career path that I would pursue, only growing and developing Wicken.

How do you relax away from the business? I am always working on Wicken, and find reading, researching and designing is my way of relaxing. I also read tarot and enjoy spending time with good friends and family.

What is the most adventurous thing you have done, that has taken you out of your comfort zone? Recently flying to Milan! After having the embolisms in 2015 and a near death experience from it, I didn’t think I would ever get back on a plane! But I was very prepared medically for the travel and was extremely happy I took the leap and conquered my fear.

If there was one special luxury item you would like to buy for yourself today, what would that be? A Mini Cooper. I would have it designed for Wicken!

Kim Mackay

FABERGÉ AT VICENZAORO

January’s edition of Vicenzaoro (VOJ) was the biggest in 70 years, welcoming more than 1,300 exhibiting brands from 36 countries and footfall exceeding 30,000.

One of the highlights at the Fair was a creation from the House of Fabergé, part of a collaboration with London-based high jewellery designer, James Ganh.

Crafted from 18ct white gold, the Fabergé x James Ganh White Gold Emerald, Diamond and Carved Quartz Crystal Transformable Necklace features 1635 round brilliant cut diamonds (with a total weight of 22.2ct at G-H VS-SI quality). Twentyfive pear shaped emeralds (with a total weight of 6.95ct) sit between 55 carved quartz crystal petals (weighing in at 195.59ct in total).

The undulating petals give the piece an elegance, but the focus is the Detachable Emerald Cut Emerald Pendant Drop, featuring a 50.93ct emerald. Not only can the necklace be worn with and without the pendant, the pendant itself is entirely transformable, and can be worn either as a pendant or a brooch.

JUST LOOKING …

America Red-Eye Tree

Frog High Jewellery

brooch from Mikimoto’s Wild & Wonderful High Jewellery collection in white, pink and green gold, garnet, tourmaline, spinel, ruby, sapphire, peridot, onyx and diamond.

SHOWTIME

Informa Markets has announced that Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong (formerly known as the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair) is scheduled to take place in September 2023.

The show will return to its twovenue, product category-specific format.

The section of the show featuring vendors selling jewellery materials, such as loose stones, is scheduled for Sept.

COLOURS TO PLEASE

AGTA Spectrum Awards™ 2022 Best Use of Colour section was won by Robert Galustian of Robert Guild Jewelry Corp. His QEII earrings in 18ct blonde gold feature two cushioncut mint green tourmalines of 21.54 carats, accented with two matching pair keystone-cut yellow sapphires, half-cut kornerupines (also called prismatine), 72 round amethysts, 66 round diamonds and six marquise-cut green tourmalines. See other AGTA winners on Page 22.

18-22 at the AsiaWorld-Expo, while the finished jewellery/packaging/equipment and tools/technology portion will take place from Sept. 20-24 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories

Entries Invited

Webb's Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories department are seeking entries for our online and live auctions of 2023.

This year, we seek glimmering gold jewellery in various carat weights and diamond pieces, including pendants, earrings, bracelets, rings, and solitaires in larger sizes.

In November 2022, Webb’s auctioned an 18-carat White Gold, dazzling, 12.07ct Cushion Cut Sapphire and Diamond ring which realised the incredible price of $67,334. Jewels of this tier are highly coveted.

High-quality timepieces from recognised Swiss Brands, Vintage, Antique, Pocket watches and all Gold timepieces will also see much attention come auction day, alongside those by Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Tag Heuer.

Contact us today for a complimentary appraisal, we would love to hear from you.

Christine Power AJP (GIA) Head of Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories christinep@webbs.co.nz +64 27 929 5607

CROWNING GLORY

From Mouawad, the fourth-generation jewellery brand headquartered in Geneva and Dubai, the Miss Universe competition crown was up for grabs at this year’s competition in New Orleans.

Dubbed the ‘Force for Good’ crown, it features 48.12cts of diamonds and 108.44cts of sapphires. The largest stone is a pear-shaped sapphire weighing 45.14cts positioned at the crown’s apex. Overall, the design resembles a feather in an aigrette. Mouawad said it is valued at US$5.75 million.

Getting the Royal treatment - 70 years after his mother, the late Queen Elizabeth II, was coronated at just 27 years old, King Charles III will be crowned alongside his wife, Camilla, the Queen Consort on May 6 at Westminster Abbey. The ceremony will be “rooted in longstanding traditions and pageantry”, yet “reflect the monarch’s role today and look towards the future,” according to a statement released by Buckingham Palace.

In the meantime, St Edward’s Crown, the 17th-century crown historically used at the moment of coronation and the historic centrepiece of the Crown Jewels, has been removed from the Tower of London to allow for modification work to begin ahead of the Coronation.

The crown was made for Charles II in 1661, as a replacement for the medieval crown which had been melted down in 1649. The original was thought to date back to the eleventh-century royal saint, Edward the Confessor - the last Anglo-Saxon king of England.

The crown was commissioned from the Royal Goldsmith, Robert Vyner, in 1661. Although it is not an exact replica of the medieval design, it follows the original in having four crosses-pattée, four fleurs-de-lis and two arches. It is made up of a solid gold frame set with rubies, amethysts, sapphires, garnet, topazes and tourmalines. The crown has a velvet cap with an ermine band.

R’Bonney Gabriel, a fashion designer, model and sewing instructor from Texas who is the first Filipino American to win Miss USA, was crowned Miss Universe in January.

RELEASED, TO MARK THE RELEASE

Avatar was back on big screens in December, 13 years after the planet of Pandora first wowed the movie world. The Avatar franchise is owned by Disney, which is partnered by Citizen Watch America.

To mark the release of the blockbuster Citizen unveiled three timepieces that pick-up themes from the sequel Avatar: The Way of Water. All use Citizen’s Eco-Drive solar power technology.

said to be the closest

TIME TO CLOSE

Martin Wilkinson Jewellers Mansfield, said to be the oldest independent jeweller in Great Britain, is closing after nearly 230 years. The shop opened in 1794 and changed its name after Martin Wilkinson bought the store in the early 1800s. During World War II, it became known for watches for fighter

pilots. Current owner Andrew Campin, whose family has owned the business for the past 90 years, said that he wanted to retire and his three children were not interested in taking over the store.

“It’s a combination of things that made me think that now is the right

Leonpteryx,

sea creature used for transport by the people of Pandora. The aerial predator is seen on a 3-hand dial that features a bi-colour case ring that emulates a wave splashing, with a date function and luminous hands. It has chronograph, dual time zones, perpetual calendar and 12/24hour time features and is water resistant to 100m.

time to go,” Campin said. “Particularly as I have a number eight at the beginning of my age now.”

In 2010, an even older British jeweller, Parsons the Jewellers, founded in 1710 in Bristol, couldn’t find a buyer and was forced to close.

Citizen Men’s Wave AW1708-57W - a stainless steel dive watch featuring

a

Citizen Ladies’ Tree of Souls FE7105-09W - The watch features a ‘Tree of Soul’ print on the dial, which is

alliance to Eywa on Pandora. This black IP-coated steel timepiece is water resistant to 50m.

Citizen Unisex Wave AW2060-02W - This watch showcases the glorious landscape of Pandora, with a focus on the oceans and the reefs where the tribe resides. A silver sunray dial is paired with a sustainable brown leather strap.

ENERGY FOR THE EARS

The style of the exuberant movement, The Memphis, which exploded at the end of the 20th century in Italy, is reinterpreted through the codes of contemporary and daring fine jewellery by Iranian designer Seyed Mohammad Mortazavi. The Memphis also known as Memphis Milano, was an Italian design and architecture group founded by Ettore Sottsass. The group designed postmodern furniture, lighting, fabrics, carpets, ceramics, glass and metal objects.

Here the designer proposes a series of earrings that look like precious mini robots. With their aesthetics made up of negative and positive spaces, enamelled profiles, bold colours, small diamonds and large gemstones. It is said the items create a communicative bridge between the revolutionary cultural phenomenon of the 1980s and the younger Gen Z audience.

EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED IN NEW ZEALAND BY

phone +64 9 480 2211

email customer.service@designaaccessories.co.nz

CELEBRATING THE PEARL

Oceana Pearl earrings by Tariq Riaz

LLC took the President’s Trophy in The Cultured Pearl Association of America 13th Annual International Pearl Design Competition.

The earrings feature 18ct white, rose, and yellow gold with 4.5-6.6 mm Akoya, 21 x 15 mm South Sea and 10 x 7 mm freshwater pearls, 7.40 cts. t.w. diamonds, 1.28 cts. t.w. pink sapphires, and 1.25 cts. t.w. tsavorites.

CREATIVE EPISODES

Chapter one of the Fabergé x Game of Thrones High Jewellery collection was unveiled in January. The collection is set to be launched over the next two years in a series of ‘chapters’ which immortalise the narrative of the award-winning HBO televisions series.

In April 2021, Fabergé hatched a one-of-a-kind bespoke objet d’art, the Fabergé x Game of Thrones egg, to coincide with the tenth anniversary of the series’ debut episode. Following the popularity of this egg objet, which sold to a private collector for US$2.2m, a more extensive series of wearable pieces is a natural evolution for this creative collaboration, according to the Maison.

The High Jewellery collection integrates design details from the sets, costumes, characters and landscapes of the Seven Kingdoms of Westeros. Each creation in Chapter One: Dragon has been inspired by the journey of orphan-turned-warrior Daenerys Targaryen, as well as her passion for her dragons and ability to use jewellery to reflect her power.

Chapter One: Dragon features five designs, with ten collectible pieces available in each creation. The Targaryen house colours of black and red, which Daenerys Targaryen embraces throughout the series, are predominantly featured in each piece. Deep red rubies, responsibly sourced from Gemfields’ Montepuez mine in Mozambique, symbolise Daenerys’ fiery spirit. The rare and precious gemstones

are paired with white gold, rose gold, diamonds and black rhodium.

In keeping with Fabergé’s element of surprise, the next three chapters in the High Jewellery collection remain a secret and will be revealed throughout 2023.

The Fabergé x Game of Thrones white and rose gold diamond Transformable Ear Cuff and Choker is an interconnected design. A pear-cut Mozambican ruby is set in a rose gold flame emerging from the dragon’s mouth.

FLY BY NIGHT

From Chinese art jeweller, Feng J… pieces she exhibited at the Fine Arts Paris & La Biennale Paris 2022, which has recently merged with Fine Art Paris to become a new event.

For all your battery needs

Head online to discover our full range of Silver Oxide, Lithium, Alkaline, Hearing Aid Batteries and more

Feng J ‘Matisse Dragonfly’ brooch with emeralds, aquamarines, sapphires, spinel, tourmaline, double rose-cut tsavorites and white diamonds in lacquer on titanium and 18ct gold.

Feng J ‘A Dragonfly wearing Moonlight’ brooch with double rose-cut pink sapphires, aquamarines. black spinels and rose-cut diamonds.

Feng J ‘Blooming Dragonfly Diva’ brooch with opal, double rosecut pink sapphires, purple spinel, aquamarine, diamond beads and further diamonds in titanium and 18ct gold.

A FOCUS ON ENERGETIC TOOLS

Alex and Ani founder Carolyn Rafaelian has a new jewellery venture, launching Metal Alchemist, a brand that designs, forges and crafts its jewels completely at a Rhode Island base.

Metal Alchemist’s in-house metalsmiths utilise a proprietary weeks-long bonding process to refine their metals, all of which are mined in the United States. The company says its metals are “forged to alchemical standards of purity that create wearable, energetic tools.”

Rafaelian founded Alex and Ani in Rhode Island in 2004. The company’s inexpensive, expandable wire charm bracelets became wildly popular early in 2010, but as their popularity waned, the company grappled with debt and legal battles. Rafaelian left the company in 2020. Alex and Ani emerged from bankruptcy in 2021 and secured additional funding last year.

A spokesperson for Metal Alchemist explained its proprietary bonding process utilises the purest metals available - 99.99% pure silver, 99.99% pure gold, and 99.95% pure copper - to formulate its various alloys.

THE KING'S HEAD

The Assay Offices of the UK have announced that the King Charles III Coronation commemorative hallmark will be available from 1 March 2023 to celebrate the coronation. The newly designed hallmark depicts the King’s head against an oval background.

Metal Alchemist creates pieces in 18ct gold, 14ct gold, gold fill, sterling silver and stainless steel.

CELEBRATING A 60TH

Omega has released two timepieces to celebrate James Bond’s 60th anniversary.

As an homage to the very first Omega watch to make an appearance in the 25-film series (GoldenEye in 1995) to the very last (No Time To Die in 2021), 10 different watches (some multiple times) were sported by 007. The watchmaker’s latest releases celebrate both the heritage and evolution of brand and series.

Rendered in “an exclusive white gold alloy known for its brilliant shine and long-lasting effect,” according to the brand, the first of two James Bond 60th Anniversary chronometers is a nod to Bond author Ian Fleming’s home in Jamaica. Its bezel is embellished with 10 shades of green and yellow treated natural diamonds, the colours of the Jamaican flag. Made from natural grey silicon, the watch’s dial features a pattern (thanks to crystallites) that mimics Jamaican sands, which also

means that no two dials are alike.

Closely inspired by the Seamaster that Bond wore in GoldenEye, the stainless steel anniversary timepiece references the instantly recognisable opening scene of the film with 007’s silhouette and a revolving gun barrel. “This dynamic scene plays out

beneath the sapphire, decorated with micro-structured metallization,” the brand said in a release. “The patentpending ‘moiré’ effect animation is linked to the running of the lollipop central seconds hand, so the action never stops.”

Seamaster James Bond 60th Anniversary Diver 300m coaxial master chronometer in stainless steel, US$7,600.

James Bond 60th Anniversary Seamaster Diver 300m coaxial master chronometer in 18ct Canopus gold with natural diamonds. Price on request.

LOOKS GOOD ON WRISTS.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia

Contact: Helen Finlayson

The Brand Agent

M. +64 27 722 6000

E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia

Contact: Helen Finlayson

The Brand Agent

M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Rose gold and delicate pink, a beautiful combination.

Model 3344-04 has a slightly oval case, textured 32mm colour-coordinated dial, 5 BAR, sapphire crystal and soft leather band in Strawberry Cream.

Model 3345-04 features a luminescent 27.5mm dial, sapphire crystal,5 BAR and a supple, sustainable Appleskin strap

bocciawatchesnz.co.nz

THE TIME HAS COME

In 1986 Susi Chinnery-Brown went to work for Stag Concepts Ltd and launched its very successful Beau Monde brand, followed by Stag Sport and the iconic NZ Buzzy Bee watch and clock range. Stag went on to distribute Jag, Guess, Fiorelli, Mambo, Dr Seuss, Akteo, Lego, Christian Dior and Katherine Hamnet, before selling the watch distribution business in 2002.

In 2007 Susi started up her own wholesaling company, Twentyfive 7 Ltd and brought Ice Watch to NZ. In 2009 she secured the right to distribute the Boccia pure titanium range of watches and jewellery. Travelling NZ has kept her on her toes for the last 37 years, but now she says it’s time for some fresh new energy to take over the reins.

Susi is delighted to announce that Pacific Time has purchased her watch business and will take over distribution of Boccia watches and jewellery from April 1st 2023.

Ollie and Charlotte Dugdale are well known in the industry and are looking forward to this exciting new chapter in expanding their business. Susi will continue to work with Pacific Time for the next two or three months to ensure a seamless transition. She may do a bit of repping for Ollie from time to time.

Susi will continue to represent AM Imports with the marcasite jewellery and her own range of pearls and handmade necklace sets, but will cut down her travel and is really looking forward to spending a lot more time with her partner John, her family and her ‘out of control wilderness‘ of a garden.

From left, Susi Chinnery-Brown with Ollie and Charlotte Dugdale, Pacific Time Industries, Christchurch.

HOW HIGH IS THE SKY?

Inspired by the ‘allure and power of the sky’, the new atelier collection of high jewels from the Japanese company Tasaki interprets the vast expanse of the air around us. Tasaki Atelier creative director Prabal Gurung, has sought to blend the brand’s signature pearls

with coloured gemstones that are both subtle and ostentatious.

Across the Radiant Sky collection, there’s an intentional lack of symmetry. Even the largest turquoise in the Radiant necklace is placed just offcentre as if to trick the eye for a quick

moment in time. Gurung explains: “Life is not perfect; the designs I create are a metaphor for how life is, it’s always going in a different direction and there are surprises!”

Green is the new black!

ESSE - fabulous reproduction antique jewellery, handcrafted in sterling silver, individually bead set with Swarovski marcasites and bold green accents to complete that special outfit.

43-266GA green agate drop earrings, 18-1049 green malachite and GP necklet and 55-131G dragonfly brooch with onyx eyes

A model wears the Radiant necklace, earring and ring in campaign imagery for the new Tasaki Atelier Radiant Sky collection. Photo: Paolo Roversi.

Ore earring with Akoya pearls, diamonds, tanzanite, pink tourmaline, sapphires, Paraiba tourmaline and demantoid garnet in 18ct white gold.

Tasaki Atelier Linkage ring with an Akoya pearl, aquamarine and diamonds in 18ct white gold.

The Tasaki Atelier Radiant necklace with Akoya pearls, South Sea pearls, diamonds, turquoise, aquamarine, blue zircon and Paraiba tourmaline in white gold.

WE REMEMBER

William (Bill) Dennis, who passed in January. Bill was well known and well respected in the NZ industry. He started at Delmonte & Patience Ltd in the ‘60’s. He then went on to rep for Mark J Sanders Ltd. in the late 1980’s.

In the early 1990’s Bill set up on his own and would travel around New Zealand selling. On his sales trips his camper van was his home and he would travel throughout the South Island three times a year. Bill retired 10 years ago with the onset of Parkinson’s disease.

A quintessential English gentleman, Bill is described as a “very likable man with good principles and character”.

A STAR TURN

Another headline - after a partnership with Christiano Ronaldo, a branded skyscraper in Dubai and a partnership with The Godfather movie, watchmaker Jacob & Co. secured space on some of the most valuable real estate on the planet, that is artist Rihanna’s wrist during her recent half time Superbowl performance at State Farm Stadium, Arizona. It has been confirmed she had selected the Jacob Brilliant Skelton Northern Lights watch. Rihanna’s watch had a red strap matching its dial, but this piece in 18ct rose gold on white alligator, encrusted with 323 round white diamonds totalling 10.25 carats, is on sale with Watches of Switzerland for US$100,000.

YOUR INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY … BEWARE!

Recently my studio has been involved in a breach of our intellectual property rights.

Our studio has been manufacturing a signature foxtail chain for 30plus years and has taken much development to perfect. It is a very good seller and carries our pendant range, as well as a slide on, slide off product.

The chain suddenly appeared as a marketable product on an outside website without my knowledge and was virtually identical to our studio product. It could only be made to the specifications known from the business and is the property of the business.

Of course, there are no winners in a situation like this and after many stressful hours and uncertainty amongst employees at their loss of work being taken from them, we needed to act. At a cost of $10k we were able to establish discontinuation of the product by way of copyright lawyers.

I feel it is important to show others who may be unaware of their own situations in this regard, that this can happen to anyone and does.

- Geoff Taylor & The Team, Geoff Taylor Jewellers, Cambridge

Bill Dennis

Show toppers!

Trends among entries in the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) 2022 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards™ included the use of more tourmalines and spinel, yellow gold jewellery and step-cut gemstones. Kornerupine and dumortierite were among the rarest and most unusual gemstones entered, while a plethora of sapphires in all hues were more familiar sights.

Pieces are scrutinised based on not only their aesthetic beauty, but also their ability to generate publicity, the quality of their workmanship, the innovative use of materials and overall wearability. Among those which caught the judges’ eyes …

Best of Show

Top prize went to Dalan Hargrave, GemStarz Jewelry, with a 210.55ct ballerina carving in green beryl.

Bridal Wear 1st Place

Gabriel Angulo, Pompos Jewelry Corporation - Platinum ring featuring a 2.55ct rectangular emerald-cut Colombian emerald accented with 24 round emeralds (.31 ctw.), 22 customcut baguette diamonds (2.77 ctw.) and 62 round brilliant diamonds (.22 ctw.).

Best Use of Pearl

Laurie Reid, LFR Studios - 22ct yellow gold ring featuring a 13.2mm cultured Golden South Sea Pearl.

Business/Day Wear 1st Place

Zoltan David - High polished steel, iridescent blue and purple steel, platinum, 18ct and 24ct gold inlay into the Mystic cuff bracelet, featuring round and marquise-shaped tsavorites accented with blue sapphires and diamonds.

Innovative Faceting - 1st Place

John Dyer, Somewhere in the Rainbow - 147.96ct orange golden citrine.

Best Use of Platinum and Colour

Mary van der Aa, Mary van der AaPlatinum Aria ring featuring a 2.10ct demantoid garnet accented with blue zircons (3 ctw.) and diamonds.

Evening Wear 1st Place

Jeffrey Bilgore LLC -18ct yellow gold and black ceramic ring featuring a 4.03ct natural fancy deep yellow diamond accented with 15 tsavorite garnets (.17 ctw.).

Phenomenal - 1st Place

Desmond Chan, Gem Arts International - 14.90ct hot pink to purple colourchange modified round brilliant pyrope garnet, titled Cosmic Kaleidoscope.

What’s inside the box?

BEA BONGIASCA X WOLF JEWELLERY BOX

Enamel queen Bea Bongiasca’s bold, colourful pieces are filled with childlike whimsy, yet have refined boundarypushing shapes. The young Italian jeweller has surprised her fans by adding her signature aesthetic to objects beyond the fine jewellery she is famed for. In collaboration with the jewellery storage and accessories brand WOLF, Bongiasca has launched a series of eye-catching kaleidoscopic boxes and trays.

MAISON MELLERIO X GOYARD TRUNKS

Inspired by the creative enlightenment period that was the Renaissance, French jewellery brand Maison Mellerio has partnered with the oldest trunkmaker in Paris, Goyard, to create a new treasure chest tailor-made to house 10 Mellerio Color Queen rings. The self-proclaimed oldest jeweller in the world wanted its clients to be able to purchase their solitaire ring collection in one neat design package that added something extra to their purchase.

13BC X CAROLINA BUCCI CLUTCHES

Italian fine jeweller Carolina Bucci has collaborated with fellow Italian designer Cherine Magrabi Tayeb, creator of the brand 13BC, to make a series of exclusive collectable charm clutch handbags as part of the Woven Wishes collection. Designed using Bucci’s intricate jewellery-making techniques, the clutches feature rich layers of nude and coloured enamel dotted with 13 charms which can be removed and stitched onto any piece of clothing.

These are a few of our

There were times when we were thrown off kilter in 2022, but there were also plenty of good vibe We feature a selection from the

Blossom is my new collection I made towards the end of 2022, after working on commission pieces for most of the year. This new series of work further explores my passion with mother-of-pearl shell, carving organic materials and my love of traditional and non-traditional goldsmithing techniques. Colour and beauty can be found in everyday flowers. I handcrafted six special pieces for this exhibition, with four of these works having their own custom-made display cabinet.

our favourite things …

moments too. Especially when special pieces were made at the benches of NZ jewellery designers. makers, that continue to please.

Japanese Anemone - Brooch: Hand carved mother of pearl shell (yellow-lip), 18ct yellow gold, sterling silver, green moonstone, Ethiopian opal and citrine.

- Steph Lusted, Steph Lusted Jewellery & Objets d'Art, Wellington

p Honu (green sea turtle) - brushed sterling silver pendant set with a 12mm Tahitian black pearl. Design inspired by trip to Kailua-Kona, Hawaii.

- Danika Cooper Jewellery, East Auckland

p For those wishing to keep costs down, but still wanting the ‘diamond’ look, we created this exquisite men’s dress ring featuring a ‘Majestic Moissanite’ stone, with side diamonds in 18ct yellow gold with a platinum top. Moissanite is ethically and responsibly ‘lab grown’, even harder than sapphire.

p Karo Flower. 18ct yellow and rose gold flower studs. A commission piece to create a very special gift for an old client. I used an actual Karo flower which I dismantled, coated and shaped into a wax pattern. Cast in-house and finished as a one-off design.

p This bangle has been a long time in the planning. Before Covid was a household word, an overseas stone dealer with a very large selection of tourmalines had arranged to visit me. Knowing that my customer would be interested in seeing his stock, I invited her to come and have a look. She had the idea of wanting a gold bangle embedded with stones of differing sizes and shapes. She was very decisive in choosing a mixture of colours with nice pastel hues - 27 tourmalines and one aquamarine.

p Queen Bee. 9ct yellow and sterling silver pendant with sapphire. I used the dead queen from my own beehive for casting. 3D designed honeycomb, shaped wings in gold and a sapphire. Exhibition piece.

p Amethyst and 18ct gold bling ring. This ring is all about showcasing the stone and getting as much light as possible through it. I bought the amethyst at Little India in Penang, on my way home from completing the gem identification lab class in London for my GIA GG. It was thrilling to put some newly found skills to the test.

t The Tern Pendant was made after watching terns wheeling and diving at Aramoana, at the mouth of Otago Harbour. I often walk out along the mole and look at the sea birds and the terns are especially pretty. In the mating season they court each other with tiny fish!

I bought the aquamarine many years ago. It is a slightly awkward shape with a flat crown and very deep pavilion, so I’m delighted it has finally found its piece.

The pendant is handmade from 18ct gold, with a diamond set bail and the terns in platinum.

- Tony Williams, Tony Williams Goldsmith, Dunedin.

The disruption to life over the ensuing period afforded my customer plenty of time to mull over design possibilities, so her thinking went away from the gold bangle to earrings, where the 28 stones would be held on a mesh hanging from each ear. After refining a design, her thinking then swung back to the gold bangle. Her first suggestion was for the stones to be punch-set in 18ct yellow gold. I knew that would be a setting nightmare, plus the bangle would have to be very thick to take the depth of the stones.

After a bit of persuasion on my part she eventually settled on the bangle being made in silver, with the coloured stones set in 18ct yg rub settings and highlighted by diamonds punch-set into the silver. A fine gold rim setting had to be made for each individual stone then soldered onto the silver evenly around the bangle. The silver has a matte finish, and the gold rims around the tourmalines are polished.

Raoul Quinn did an excellent setting job and both of us were relieved when it was finally finished. My customer is very happy with her bangle which suits her flamboyant personality well.

- Brian Barrett, BHB Designs Ltd, Wellington

- Geoff Taylor, Geoff Taylor Jewellers, Cambridge

- Rob Wright, Ringcraft Moana, Oakura, New Plymouth

- Stephanie Lorimer, Lorimer Jewellery, Ophir, Central Otago

- Belinda Lubkoll, Ringcraft Moana, Oakura, New Plymouth

p My client lost her watch, the strap of which I had made for her previously, in the garden and then it found its way under a lawn mower. So, she put me onto the task of finding her another watch, which she then wanted me to make a special watch strap for.

After some time searching on the internet, my client and I feel in love with the face of this Versace watch, so I ordered it in from overseas for her. It came with a chunky black leather strap, which meant she could wear it whilst I designed and handmade the strap for her.

The settings, links and box clasp are 14ct yellow gold, and the chenier is 9ct yellow gold. The stones are black onyx, which was cut to order by Carl Yung.

- Lynaire Kibblewhite, Lynaire Kibblewhite Goldsmith, Hamilton

p A platinum and moldavite wedding ring for a man that wanted something other than just a plain band and his partner who ‘wanted to make sure she had her mark on her man’.

The texture is her fingerprints.

- Les Riddell, Objects of Art Ltd, Cromwell

p We love the variety of setting styles and stone shapes in this dress ring, the balance of positive and negative space and the striking contrast between the vivid blue sapphire and white diamonds and platinum.

7.12ct vivid blue cushion-cut sapphire. Total diamond weight: 4.51ct.

- Brent Sutcliffe, Sutcliffe Jewellery, Parnell, Auckland

t Handmade in platinum featuring ten carats of stunning emerald cut diamonds all the way around the band.

- Brent & Aimee White, The Ringmakers, Timaru.

We’re Hiring

Partridge Jewellers is a sixth-generation retail & manufacturing jewellery business. We are looking for a Goldsmith to be based in either our Auckland or Wellington workshop. Must have relevant qualification and at least 2 years’ experience.

To apply, send through a copy of your CV and/or a portfolio of work to recruitment@partridgejewellers.co.nz or call +64 9 309 8930

p We had a lot of fun designing and making this ring for a client. It is a 22ct yellow gold Etruscan style ring with symbols special to the client and hand cut lapis lazuli baguettes.

Also, the 3D print lines were left in the final ring at the client’s request to add to the aged feel.

- Halfdan Hansen, Jens HansenGold & Silversmith, Nelson

Gents Chronograph Collection

p The Lantern is all about guidance, and shining your inner light to the world, whilst remaining protected, light and free. The Lantern can also be used to connect friends, family and lovers across the world, by each wearing a lantern, and connecting through the light that they create for each other.

The materials used - solid 9ct yellow gold, with a clear quartz stone. None of our pieces are plated metal, we prefer to work with solid gold and solid sterling silver.

The Lantern pendant also comes in rose quartz and onyx variations.

- Kim Mackay, Wicken Jewellery, Ponsonby, Auckland

p This ring was created using a customer's cherished rings that she inherited from her Mum. She wanted to use as many of the pieces as possible and as many of the stones so that she could wear the ring every day and know that she would keep her Mum close to her. She was thrilled with the result as were we.

- Alex & Lori Trigwell, SilverStone Jewellery, Torbay, Auckland

Chronograph

Ronda Swiss designed movement

45mm Stainless steel case & bracelet

Raised index dial

100 metres water resistant

Safety locking clasp

Date

$389 RRP

Model 29909 Green Dial

Model 29709

Navy Blue Dial

Model 29509 Black Dial

All the fun of the fair

Pictures by Debbie Whiting

Described as a connecting bridge between Australia and New Zealand’s jewellery industries, February’s Jewellery Industry Fair (JIF) in Melbourne confirmed its solid reputation after hosting a second successful event, with more than 660 guests and 60 exhibitors, including New Zealanders, showcasing the industry’s latest.

The two-day event held at the Port Melbourne Timber Yard provided a weekend of business opportunities and entertainment. Despite starting with wet weather, the skies cleared over the city and the gates opened to guests who received a goodie-filled show bag and a complimentary glass of bubbles.

Being in a space with numerous like-minded people meant the conversation never ceased. Shopping amongst the stalls, meeting and building relationships, the Fair proved to be a need-to-be place to network with the best in the industry. And all guests were encouraged to relax and enjoy the dishes

from the food trucks and treats like the Palloys’ gelato cart and freshly shucked Blackman Bay oysters sponsored by Showcase Jewellers.

Additionally, the sold-out cocktail party was an obvious hit amongst the guests. Held under the sky on the Saturday night, guests enjoyed a lively experience, with funky live music from Paul ‘Little Paul’ Jamieson. The conversation and beverages flowed well into the night.

Run by the Jewellery Industry Network, the group announced that they will be bringing their Fair to Sydney for the first time in August this year.

Fabulous Pearls

A unique array of pieces, designed in New Zealand

WWW FVJEWELLERY COM

Elodie Mosley and Lachlan Owens from Palloys.

Among those greeting show visitors were …

Dean Badelles amd Jenny Sher, Chemgold.

Astral and Sundeep Maheshwari, Portobello Jewellery.

Robert Botter and Kathryn Botter, R & D Italian Jewellery.

Helen Thompson-Carter, Fabuleux Vous.

Bubbles at the Palloys bar.

Tatiana Abbott, Jewellery World magazine.

Laura Moore, Jeremy Keight, Jewellery World and Debbie Whiting.

From left, Morris & Watson exhibitors, Paula Cortie, James Bishop and Adam van Sambeek.

Susi Chinnery Brown, John Michaelis and Cheryl MacKay, AM Imports.

Steve Wainstein and Erica Miller, Ikecho.

Marnie Lichnok and Brendan McCreesh, O’Neils Affiliated.

Emma Ellison-Kubecka and Heather Graham, Showcase/JIMACO Matteo and Paolo Franceschini, Glenyville.

Gersande Price and Lorna Spencer, Ellendale Diamonds Australia Pty Ltd.

Melinda Carey, Georgini and John Rose, Westend Collection.

SHARING STORIES

The Women in Jewellery (WIJ) community held their launch event at the Jewellery Industry Fair. At the event a panel of speakers, all of whom are successful women in the industry, shared stories about their challenges and wins in the industry.

Hosted by Laura Moore and Kim Ridley of the Jewellery Industry Network, the speakers were Cushla Whiting from Cushla Whiting, Jennifer Rowlands - Refinery Row, Shelley Bedarov - The Perfect Diamond and Nicole Winkler - Nicole Winkler Designs.

There are currently more than 250 Australasian WIF members. The group supports women in the industry who felt they needed a space to share experiences and find support when running and managing their businesses. Perhaps we need a New Zealand chapter?

WWW.WIJCOMMUNITY.COM/

Host Laura Moore with Cushla Whiting, Nicole Winkler, Shelley Bedavor, Jennifer Rowlands and Kim Ridley.

It’s a bright, shiny year

Strength, vigour, and inclusiveness are at the essence of Pantone Color Institute’s 2023 Colour of the Year. ‘Viva Magenta,’ a vibrant relative of the red family, ‘selected for the innate fearless strength it evokes’.

“In this age of technology, we look to draw inspiration from nature and what is real,” says Leatrice Eiseman, the Institute’s executive director. “Viva Magenta descends from the red family and is inspired by the red of cochineal, one of the most precious dyes belonging to the natural dye family, as well as one of the strongest and brightest the world has known.

“Viva Magenta welcomes anyone and everyone with the same verve for life

and rebellious spirit. It is a colour that is audacious, full of wit, and inclusive of all.”

The colour of the year was chosen by a group of experts who considered everything from current trends in entertainment, art, design, and travel to socio-economic conditions, new technological developments and even sporting events.

Displaying the power of this expressive new colour …

The AnaKatarina ‘Pretty in Pink’ ring features a pink tourmaline surrounded by rhodolite garnets and orange sapphires, all set in yellow gold.

Chaumet Under the Sun - in gold, diamonds and rubellite.

Sorellina Strawberry studs in 18ct yellow gold with rubies and black rhodium detailing.

Viva Magenta: Shine Bright with the Pantone Colour of the Year 2023.

Top drawer debut

Jane Carter, Marketing and Digital Manager for Fabuleux Vous (FV), reports on the Auckland company’s first appearance at a London trade fair…

January 2023 began with a very exciting start for FV. We grabbed an opportunity to showcase our best sellers and a little bit of New Zealand at the prestigious Top Drawer Trade Show in London. It was our first time taking FV to the UK and Europe.

When we arrived at Olympia, an amazing venue, we were unsure of what to expect. The product selection in the gift, homeware and fashion space was nothing like we had seen before. A beautiful mix of products from all around the world. A truly special moment to see FV on the world stage, a real pinch me moment.

Visitors had come to purchase and to browse, while many were planning for the 2023 Christmas season. Our accent gave away where we were from, and so the conversations began. They loved how different our designs were, especially that every piece is designed in our Auckland studio. We stood out as we had pieces that were very target market specific, particularly in comparison to a lot of finer jewellery that was on offer.

We learned a lot about the market in the UK and Europe and the upcoming trend predictions. Colour is pitched to be huge in the next 12 months for both fashion and jewellery. Our colourful La Pierre collection was praised for its contemporary design and chic style. Our Steel Me collection was also popular. Buyers loved the layered look in the coin necklaces and our pearls appealed to the top end gift store buyers who had a taste for the presence of timeless pearl jewellery.

It was exceptionally insightful speaking with visitors to Top Drawer, particularly about style and design. We learned a lot about what women do and don’t like, as well as what sells well during different periods of the year.

We were excited to come away from the Fair with a range of new retail partners across England and Scotland. It was time to head home and get the orders on their way. Sometimes you have to take a chance, you never know where it might take you. And we are so glad we did!

NEW STYLES

• Proudly New Zealand made jewellery

• 100% New Zealand sourced gold

• New Zealand’s largest selection of coloured stone jewellery

W: solarjewellery.co.nz

E: info@solarjewellery.co.nz

P: +64 9 427 9171

Helen Thompson-Carter, FV Director, meets and greets at the FV stand.

The Olympia in the heart of London, the venue of the design-led event.

And the Oscar goes to …

The 22nd annual Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Awards took place in Geneva late last year, with some of the year's most sensational watches being recognised across a range of categories. The Awards were judged by a team of 30 industry experts. Led by English historian, author and journalist Nick Foulkes they crowned the most impressive creations with a 'GPHG Award Winning' title.

Here are a few of the winners at the watchmaking world's equivalent of the Academy Awards ….one of which had a little help from New Zealand paua shell.

AIGUILLE D’OR GRAND PRIX

Criteria: This prize rewards the best overall timepiece among all categories (Best in Show), also deemed the most representative of the watch industry as a whole. It is the most prestigious award.

Winner: MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo

The Sequential Evo features a novel ‘Twinverter’ binary switch, allowing multiple timing options including split seconds and lap timer modes. Impressively, they all run on a single escapement and balance, rather than two independent trains. The design is consistent with the Legacy Machine range, where the mechanics are exposed on the dial and a balance wheel is suspended high above it by an elegantly arched balance bridge.

INNOVATION PRIZE AWARD WINNER

Criteria: This prize rewards the best watch offering an innovative vision of time measurement and opening new development pathways for the watchmaking industry. This prize is discretionary each year, and the Jury decides whether there are grounds for awarding it.

Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch

The watch, in rose and white gold with white and yellow diamonds, pink sapphires, white mother-ofpearl, miniature painting and self-winding mechanical movement is equipped with a flower-opening module for the hours and lateral minutes display. With each passing hour, the open flowers close to make way for a new combination. The next day, the sequence of the bouquets that succeed one another from hour to hour will be different.

MECHANICAL CLOCK AWARD WINNER

Criteria: Watches featuring a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a special escapement, a belt-driven movement or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.

Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux Automaton

This was the first time a category highlighted time-measuring instruments other than wristwatches. The piece recreates a garden fountain filled with still water and visited by birds and dragonflies. When activated, the fountain comes to life, revealing waves where the water's surface starts to ripple as if moved by a light breeze. An enamel and gem-set water lily floating on the surface slowly blooms, whilst the still dragonfly rises by beating its wings. The birds perched on either edge of the basin move towards each other as they chirp and sing; bells and beechwood create the sound from within the clock.

Crafted in yellow, rose and white gold and decorated with various forms of enamel applique, diamonds and coloured gemstones, vegetal lacquer, eggshell marquetry, ebony, emeralds, tsavorites, diamonds, goat leather, chalcedony, rock crystal, sapphires, lapis lazuli, mandarin garnets, amethysts, turquoise, mother-of-pearl and plique-à-jour enamel.

JEWELLERY WATCH AWARD WINNER

Criteria: Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gem setting, distinguished by the choice of stones.

Winner: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Watch

Powered by the in-house micro-calibre Piccolissimo, one of the smallest mechanical movements to date, the Serpenti Misteriosi secret watch in rose gold combines spectacular craftsmanship with Swiss watchmaking expertise. The diminutive timepiece is revealed when pressing the snake's tongue, which holds the very small mechanism in its jaws. The watch has a winding body of rose gold set with turquoise and diamond scales leading to the hand-carved head of the snake, where two pear-cut rubellites add fire to the reptile's eyes.

LADIES' COMPLICATION WATCH AWARD WINNER

Criteria: Assessed on their mechanical creativity and complexity in this category. Watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications and do not fit the definition of the traditional ladies' category.

Winner: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

This 38mm-diameter steel Arceau offers a new way of reading the hours of the world. The unique ‘travelling time’ mechanism developed exclusively for Hermès drives a display of 24 time zones via a circular disc and a mobile counter. The exclusive 122-component module is housed in a 4.4mmthick case. The ‘travelling time’ complication is integrated into the Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement.

ARTISTIC CRAFTS

Criteria: Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.

Winner: Voutilainen Ji-Ku

Created by one of the greatest lacquer artists of Japan, Tatsuo Kitamura. The dial shown here, using the techniques of lacquering with Saiei Makie and Somata zaiku takes several months of work to complete. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (paua shell from New Zealand).

LADIES' WATCH AWARD WINNER

Criteria: Women's watches are judged on the following features - hours, minutes, seconds, simple date, power reserve, classic moon phases and potentially adorned with a maximum 9-ct gem setting.

Winner: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic

Equipped with a new, in-house automatic movement of subtly smaller dimensions, the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm introduces itself in a format suitable for a thinner wrist. The watch upholds all the stylistic codes specific to Parmigiani Fleurier: fluid and harmonious integration of the 18ct rose gold case and bracelet, knurled bezel, finely guilloché minimalist dial with invisible set baguette-cut diamond indexes.

ICONIC

Criteria: Watches from an emblematic collection that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 20 years.

Winner: TAG Heuer Monaco X Gulf

The Heuer Monaco is a classic sports chrono made with partner Gulf Racing. The co-creation wears the legendary colours and design of the Gulf brand and is equipped with the in-house movement Heuer 02a premiere for the Monaco Gulf edition.

They warned us it was going to be a wet windy summer...and sadly, for once, they were right! Our hearts go out to all affected by the summer floods and Cyclone Gabrielle, especially in Northland, Auckland, Coromandel, Gisborne and Hawke's Bay. One feels so helpless as a bystander, but I know that our jewellery community will be there to help each other wherever/ whenever possible.

On a happier note, the ram-raids appear to have stopped (or at least slowed down) and the police are making some good arrests and recovering a quantity of stolen property.

I attended the Jewellery Industry Fair

(JIF) on 4th/5th February at the Timber Yard in Melbourne - what a fabulous location! Easy to access, plenty of parking, great food truck options, nice wide aisles and good lighting. And the oyster shucker sponsored by Showcase Jewellers was very popular!

The fair was well attended, slow start in the mornings, but filled up before lunch each day and talking to other exhibitors, most seem to have written some good business.

Was so good to catch up with industry friends and clients and have a good chat with members of the JAA. They are very envious that we still train jewellery and watch-making apprentices here in NZ and are keen to speak with

Grant Harrison about how our system is set up and operates.

Another issue that came up was the cost of Trans-Tasman freight and the difficulties that some people have with bringing stock across to our Trade Fair using a ‘carnet’. Unfortunately there are no quick fixes for either issue. Freight across ‘the ditch’ has always been disproportionately high and we are stuck with the ‘carnet’ system for now.

It is an issue we can work on for sure.

If I can be of any assistance, or you would like to discuss anything that concerns you, please feel free to contact me.

- Susi Chinnery-Brown, JWNZ President 07 889 3545, 021 751 115 susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ

Summer is traditionally the quiet time in our trade as people enjoy a well-earned holiday. This year many summer plans have been thwarted and abandoned due to the extraordinary weather conditions. I think these weather anomalies, coupled with the economic uncertainties. have affected many businesses, with consumers being more hesitant about spending. I am aware of customers who ask for a quote, then delay going ahead as they deal with unexpected issues that need prior attention. People still desire jewellery, but the reality is that other more pressing things drain their funds.

Additions and updates have been made to the Health and Safety Manual pertaining to theft and robberies. They have been sent to the auditors for proof-reading and approval. Given the current weather-related emergencies, we are expecting this stage to be delayed. Once available, they will be sent by email to those who have purchased a Manual. Many thanks to Mike Sherring for his work on this.

- Brian Barrett, GGNZ Chairman Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz

Susi Chinnery-Brown.

Brian Barrett.

JIF organiser Laura Moore, of the Jewellery Industry Network. welcomes visitors with a fresh oyster treat.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc.

MEMBER BENEFITS:

Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.

JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.

Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.

Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.

Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.

BUSINESS SERVICES:

ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.

ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.

Crombie Lockwood Insurance Brokers - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.

CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.

Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.

Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions.

Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables.

Vodafone - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband

Vodafone - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers

INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION:

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

- Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.

TRADE & COMMERCE:

Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.

Business & Personal Banking Merchant Facilities

Telecommunication Ser vices

2023

2023 JWNZ TRADE FAIR

The JWNZ Spring Trade Fair. scheduled for Sunday 10 September 2023. is on track to surpass the success of our 2022 event held at the RNZYS, Westhaven, Auckland. Debbie Whiting, Trade Fair Convenor/Manager has advised the venue has been rebooked, with the feedback on the venue from exhibitors and visitors being extremely positive. The current exhibition space is sold out and we have the option of adding more exhibitor space if required. The JWNZ Annual General Meeting is scheduled for Saturday 9th September, at the same venue.

JWNZ FINANCIAL MEMBERSHIP & ANNUAL SUBSCRPTIONS

Your support of the JWNZ through your financial membership is greatly appreciated. The JWNZ Executive has been very aware of costs and our budgeting will again see the organisation with a surplus in the 2022-2023. The JWNZ wishes to continue on this path and requires your continuing support and as such your annual membership subscription will remain unchanged.

Our financial year end is 28 February 2023 and your 2023-2024 annual subscription invoices will be sent to you in March. As your Financial Membership Certificate ends 30 June 2023, this will allow you three months to pay

your subscription. To help with your budgeting we offer the option of paying the annual membership subscription by monthly by instalments.

JWNZ AND THE FUTURE

At the September 2022 JWNZ National Council meeting it was agreed to complete an in-depth review of the organisation and its relevance to the jewellery and watch industry in the current business environment. As advised to the Annual General Meeting the organisation is required to re-register between April 2023 and October 2026 and as the Rules (Constitution) are almost 40 years old, we will be reviewing the current Rules of the Society with a view to replacing them with a new set. Included in the review will be; member communication, benefits of membership and liaison with other organisations including those within the jewellery and watch industry. The review is scheduled to be completed within 11 months and will be ratified by the National Council and its findings advised to members at the 2023 AGM.

CURRENT EVENTS

With what appears to be the waning of Covid-19 in the community, though it still exists and many have contracted it for a second and sometimes third time, we now have the issue of

extreme weather conditions. Flooding in Auckland, then Cyclone Gabrielle creating flooding and damage to homes, businesses, roading, services and amenities in the north and east of the North Island. We are thinking of our members and their families who have been adversely affected. We are sure that many of us will know someone who has been affected in some way.

JWNZ INC. NATIONAL OFFICE

Craig Anderson

JWNZ Executive Secretary

PO Box 16007, Hornby, Christchurch 8441

T 021 596 988

E info@jwnz.co.nz

Down in Invercargill is where you'll find Skelts Jewellers, in a bright shop in Esk Street.

At 16, owner Ash Harris started his apprenticeship under Mr Panagiotidis and then at 21 he started his own manufacturing workshop. After four years he went into partnership with Skelts Jewellers in Dee Street. He moved to Esk Street and then across the road to their current location in 2018.

Ash has trained five apprentices over the years including his son Cody and Richard Payne.

Skelts is a busy manufacturing jeweller and carries a huge range of watches. Ash is assisted in store by Richard Payne (for 26 years), Shona Keil (more than 20 years) and his son Cody.

Ash has three children, seven grandchildren and in his 'spare time' loves riding his motorbikes and restoring old Ford muscle cars. Do call in and say hi when you are in Invercargill.

Craig Anderson.

RETAILERS REVIEW BY SUSI CHINNERY-BROWN

Cody and Ash Harris.

Happy new year everybody. I would like to take this opportunity to pass on JIRBNZs thoughts and support for all those displaced or affected by the recent weather events.

With the passing of the year the results for those apprentices who sat their Trade Certificate Final Examination are out.

This examination does not gain someone their Trade Certificate on its own. To be awarded a Trade Certificate as a NZ Manufacturing Jeweller, or as a NZ Watch and Clockmaker, a pass in the Trade Certificate examination must also be grouped with 8000hrs at the bench spent mastering all the ‘Tasks’ in the apprentice’s Training Record book. This includes passing ‘the practical test piece’ and completion of Stages 1, 2 and 3 of the TOPNZ course or also, as in the case for watchmakers, attending training days as directed.

To be registered as a Trade Certified is something that is becoming more important. Not only does this enable a customer to have confidence in a member’s broad knowledge base to entrust them with a precious piece, as has now been the case on a couple of occasions JIRBNZ has been called on, that an insurance company will regard that the employer did take “reasonable care” with entrusting a staff member to work on an item as they were “suitability qualified” or were in the process of “becoming qualified” to the Recognised Industry Standard.

If the staff member wasn’t qualified, the outcome in both cases may well have been quite different and is something well worth being aware of and also that the customer actually has the right to assume whoever is working

on their piece is sufficiently qualified, unless told otherwise beforehand.

This also applies to cover our apprentices who are in the throes of working towards being Trade Certified.

Having registered 16 new apprentices in 2022, it is a good outlook for our industry when these apprentices also satisfy all the above requirements and in turn, apply for their registration as a Trade Certified Tradespeople.

Recently I travelled to Christchurch and called in on the apprentices in the area to see how they are going. Pictured is James Matthewman who is a registered apprentice watchmaker at Ilam Watchmakers. It was obvious that the Ilam team is doing a great job providing James with the training so he can complete mastering the Tasks in his Record Book.

On not such a great note I have been made aware that there are some in our industry who are referring to someone as an apprentice when they are not. Quite simply if your name isn’t on the list of register apprentices you are not one and any reference to being one must stop.

There are strict criteria set in NZ to be met to be called an apprentice. If anyone wishes to formalise an agreement they have, do get in touch with the JIRBNZ.

Lastly, our Industry’s apprenticeship system would have been disestablished if it wasn’t for the overwhelming support of our members to keep our Skilled Trade alive. A Skilled Trade is one that requires an apprenticeship to enter and if we lose our Trade, it will be gone forever.

A huge part of this support is shown

by the firms who are flagged below on our apprentice supporters’ banner. I am pleased to again confirm that all these firms have repledged their support for 2023. Support them as a big thank you in return. At the end of the day, we are all in this together.

– Grant Harrison Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

M: 0276930001,

E: info@jirbnz.org.nz

W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

James Matthewman

AOST23064 - adidas Retro Pop - NZ$199.95

The unique and iconic Retro Pop silhouette turns digital. This watch features a mix of vintage and modern style. The black digital dial is offset perfectly against the white resin case with black pushers and fast wrap white nylon strap. It perfectly expresses the young and unconventional side of adidas Originals.

WW00032001L4 - Furla Icon - NZ$449.95

Introducing the new effigy of Furla Watches, the Icon shape. The swirling 34mm silver and gold-tone case design also features a luscious green dial, with satin-finish ringed by a repeating logo motif to make this piece unmistakably FURLA. A silver and gold-tone stainless steel bracelet fastens this quintessential timepiece to the wearer's wrist, offering the perfect balance of durability and style.

JUBB03094JWYGL - GUESS Heart Cage Bracelet - NZ$139.95

Keep your heart safe with this caged heart pendant adorned with crystals on a yellow gold tone chain bracelet from GUESS. Wear it with the matching necklace and earrings for a statement look.

TW2V57100 - Timex UFC Phantom - NZ$329.95

Showcasing hard lines and sleek architectural design, the TIMEX UFC Pro is a premium analogue statement piece for any wrist. This watch reps our authenticity with pride, from the line-embossed UFC logo on the gold-tone dial and comfortable black band, to the expert construction of the octagonal bezel and enamel-inlayed crown. A date indicator sits within the textured multi-layered dial, while its gold-tone stainless-steel case weighs in at a substantial 44mm and 100m of water resistance for rugged durability.

GW0033L8 - GUESS Cosmo - NZ$349.95

A silhouette borrowed from the GUESS guy, but updated with sophisticated and feminine crystal embellishments on the case and an opulent green dial for a very feminine feeling. This iconic GUESS timepiece on a gold bracelet is guaranteed to be a wardrobe staple that can elevate any look with a luxurious modern twist.

BKPLIS301 - Ted Baker Lilabel - NZ$355.95

Introducing LILABEL, the new masterpiece watch by Ted Baker London. Extremely sophisticated and elegant, this timepiece features the Ted Baker Magnolia motif on an otherwise transparent dial, and is combined with a jewellery-inspired rose gold-tone stainless steel chain bracelet, for a feminine and fashionable look. Now available with brand new packaging made 100% from sustainable sources.

Organic gemstone bracelet Jade gold. - JBOGG-J656NZD RRP: $69.00

Rosefield has delivered another timeless piece. Wear the piece you love with this elegant gold dotted bracelet with a stunning jade stone. This piece will finish off every look, every time.

Gemme watch silver gold duotone bracelet watch. - GWSSS-G03 - NZD RRP: $249.95

The Gemme, a new line of contemporary watches from Rosefield, is already a classic. The uncommon polygonal face shape and polished 5-link duotone bracelet revives vintage elegance, redefining the watch as the latest must-have stylish accessory.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaaccessories,com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

ROSEFIELD

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL PACKAGES

From MY LITTLE ANGELTM children’s jewellery range.

FOR ALL SEASONS

IP132ERGP-EDI

Sterling silver rose gold-plated pink Round Edison 11.5mm Freshwater Pearl cubic zirconia hook earrings.

IP132ESS-EDI

BG113-BDA Charlie Bluebird Cuff Bangle Silver 45mm.

Sterling silver white Round Edison 11.5mm Freshwater Pearl cubic zirconia hook earrings.

IP4060N-RGP-HT

BG113-RHA Charlie Red Heart Cuff Bangle Silver 45mm.

Add some sparkle to bub’s world with these easy-to-adjust 45mm children’s cuff bangles embellished with a bluebird or red enamel heart. Crafted in sterling silver, these little trinkets make a memorable gift for special occasions.

FOR THE MAN OF THE MOMENT

Sterling silver pink 9-10mm Freshwater Pearl cubic zirconia Heart Charm rose gold-plated 41cm necklace + 5cm ext.

876-26C Brock Warrior rectangle black onyx ring 9ct yellow gold. A 12x10mm rectangle black onyx gent’s ring with a warrior's head symbol that represents honour, loyalty and devotion. Also available in sterling silver.

IP4060N-RGP-LK

Sterling silver pink 9-10mm Freshwater Pearl cubic zirconia Padlock Charm rose gold-plated 41cm necklace + 5cm ext.

IP6734E

Sterling silver white off round 4-5mm Freshwater Pearl hoop studs.

Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 612 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.com.au, www.ikecho.com.au

TO HOLD CLOSE

723-3C Archer oval blue stone ring 9ct yellow gold.

A classic oval-cut gent’s ring set with a 12x10mm synthetic blue stone. Also available in sterling silver.

Contact: Paterson Fine Jewellery. Order online at www.pfj.com.au or +61 (3) 9555 9344.

New collection of 9ct diamond huggies, featured in yellow gold with diamonds, white gold with sapphire and diamond and rose gold with diamonds. Starting from TDW 0.10ct.

Contact: Worth & Douglas Ltd, Ph 64 9 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz, www.worthdouglas.com

FOR EVERY OCCASION

Sekonda

This watch has a round, silver ion-plated alloy case with a black chapter ring and a silver dial. Fastened with a stainless steel bracelet, features include 24- hour read out, a day/date display and up to 50m water resistance.

Sekona

This watch has a round, silver ion-plated alloy case with a blue sunray dial and is fastened with a silver ion plated alloy bracelet.

Ania

Up the ante with your ear stacks with a perfect pairing of pearlescent shimmer and sparkle with these elegant pearl drop huggie hoops. The chunky gold huggie hoop is linked to a suspended iridescent pearl droplet, finished with a single cubic zirconia stone for all the seasonal sparkle.

Make a statement with your jewellery this season with this chunky link chain necklace, pairing a row of stunning pearls with a length of on-trend gold chain. The perfect balance of femininity and power dressing, it's beautifully finished with a chunky gold link pendant. To be styled solo or stacked with delicate gold chains for a layered look over anything from an LBD to a simple tee.

- $269

Timeless elegance: The 3cm dangle earrings in 925 sterling silver are stylishly designed. They swing slightly when you move and are hand-set with large, pink stones in a precious octagon cut. The open prong setting enhances the intensity of the stones' play of colour when they catch the light. They are connected to the stud with a delicately crafted element in an elongated shape. Small, hand-set zirconia stones in round cut shine on this element. The perfect complement is jewellery in the same design which includes the necklace and ring.

Thomas

The ring for women made of 925 sterling silver presents itself as a stylish cocktail ring. It is set with a large, pink centre stone that shines in an elegant octagon cut. Its open prong setting highlights the colours of the stone brilliantly in the light. Small, round-cut zirconia stones in white are set in the ring band to emphasise the sparkle. The ring band is gently rounded for a pleasant fit. This high-quality ring is ideal for special occasions and can be perfectly combined with other pieces of jewellery in the same design.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent, helen@thebrandagent.co.nz, Ph 027 7222 6000.

SK30039 - $159

SK40478 - $179

Haie E043-04G - $149

Sabo TR2339-051-9 - $269

Thomas Sabo H2177-051-9

Ania Haie N043-01G - $169

WITH FLYING COLOURS

Sunshine Wattle set crafted in 9ct yellow or white gold, the set features four stunning claw set Australian Chocolate Diamonds in a pendant and earrings.

6041

6042 – Necklace (with chain attached) TDW 0.38ct NZ$880+GST.

Contact Helen Finlayson

Ph 27 7226 000 or 0800 777 414. www.boltongems.com.au, helenf@boltongems.com.au

CHIC AND ENDURING

Elegant freshwater pearl designs join FV. Designed to be worn as a set, these are jewellery essentials for the modern woman. From our 4mm freshwater pearl strand, on double knotted cotton, or the contemporary style of the freshwater pearl pendant hanging on the chain or hoop, these are timeless styles for everyday wear.

Contact: FV Jewellery. Ph 0274 203 137, helen@fauleuxvous.com, www.fabuleuxvous.com

DIRECTORY

WATCHMAKER / WATCH TECHNICIAN WANTED

Come join our friendly team in our busy Auckland workshop. Position for either a fully qualified Watchmaker or Watch Technician.

Full time position, all enquiries will be treated with confidence.

Please email: antonylow@watchworld.co.nz

3357 9ct yellow or white gold ring featuring a claw set 10mm cushion cut gemstone. Available in Biron Emerald, London Blue Topaz, Garnet and Peridot. From NZ$745+GST.

3354 – 18ct yellow or white gold oval Ceylon Sapphire or pink tourmaline and diamond ring. Pink tourmaline NZ$1975+GST or Ceylon Sapphire NZ$3520+GST.

– Studs Earrings TDW 0.34ct NZ$710+GST.

DIRECTORY

ARGOSY

GEMS for Design Work & Trade repairs. Sourcing of Gems from the cutters. Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, trade repairs.

Prompt Turn around of your Jobs.

Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com

Carl Yung Gems Ltd

Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones

Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available.

P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland. Ph: 09-623 2078 Fax: 623 2080

Email: info@carlyung.com

19

Extensive

5019 p 04 528 9699 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz

Tapestry Grove, Silverstream, Upper Hutt

All rethreading including lengthening & shortening

range of clasps Pearl drilling