JT 2022 Autumn

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2022 AUTUMN

D ESIGN IN TITANIUM


D i 16 am 00 on + C ds ert on ifie -h d an d New Zealand Family owned Diamond wholesaler Extensive range of smalls & fancy cuts Special off-shore orders welcome In-house state-of-the-art test equipment to test Man Made diamonds from natural State-of-the-Art Video Photography equipment able to take videos of diamonds & Jewellery

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Adorning Kiwi Masterpieces for over 19 years

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Now based in Auckland CBD PO Box 105000 Auckland City 1143 0800 DIAMONDS / 0800 342666 09 261 2638 – Tilak: 021 541 151 www.stargems.co.nz info@stargems.co.nz


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Publisher/Advertising Debbie Whiting Phone: 09 378 1222 Mobile: 0274 777 955 inklink@xtra.co.nz www.jewellerytime.co.nz

Editor Debra Douglas Mobile: 021 185 6846 chaucer@xtra.co.nz

Jewellers & Watchmakers PO Box 16007, Hornby, Christchurch 8441, New Zealand Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz Terms and Conditions Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated. InkLink Publications Ltd. publishes Jewellery Time on behalf of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated. The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated reserves the right at any time and without notice or liability to any party cancel, omit or alter any editorial or advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material. Copyright Reproduction rights in part or full of the contents of this magazine must be obtained with the permission of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and or the publisher. Disclaimer The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are purely those of the authors and are not necessarily the official views of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated nor those of the publisher.

UPCOMING JT DEADLINES WINTER 2022 BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: MAY 16 AD MATERIAL: MAY 23 MAGAZINE POSTED: MAY 30 SPRING 2022 - TRADE FAIR SPECIAL BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: AUGUST 10 AD MATERIAL: AUGUST 17 MAGAZINE POSTED: AUGUST 24 SUMMER 2022 BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: NOVEMBER 11 AD MATERIAL: NOVEMBER 18 MAGAZINE POSTED: NOVEMBER 25

The official magazine of The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

CONTENTS 6

Talkback

8

News

21

Obituary - Peter W. Beck

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Pearls to be prized

23

Hairy and scary

24

Time to man up

30

The jewel in the crown

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Fab Fabergé - Romance to revolution

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Tiger, tiger, burning bright

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JWNZ President’s Report

38

Goldsmiths Guild of NZ

39

Watchmakers’ Institure of New Zealand

41

JWNZ Executive Notes

42

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

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New Products and Services

Published by InkLink Publications PO Box 46-218, Herne Bay, Auckland 1147

BOCCIA Pure Titanium presents two classic watches in tones of ‘Periwinkle Blue’ the colour of 2022.

Design/Prepress by Rex Eade, Eade Gallery, Ph 027 286 0438, rex@eadegallery.co.nz Printed by Soar Communications Group Ltd (SCG) D ES I GN I N TITA N IU M

Registered as a magazine at the GPO, Wellington. ISSN 1170-9960.

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TALKBACK Introducing JWNZ member Brent Fisher who, with his wife Annie, own Fisher’s Black Pearl Jewellery, Rarotonga. Where do you live and who do you share your home with? For the past 35 years I have lived on the tropical island of Rarotonga, Cook Islands, with my wife, Annie and son, Daniel. We are frequently visited by our beautiful granddaughter, Melelani.

Where do you source your pearls? Manihiki, northern group island.

Tell us about your history in the jewellery industry? A friend of mine is a jeweller and my wife’s family is very involved with black pearl farming. Being middleaged I was looking for a change, so tried my hand at making black pearl jewellery and enjoyed it, so I started training and did the online theory course. Mike Baker, a master jeweller from NZ, was working in Rarotonga and took me under his wing and mentored me. Mike had a great influence in my journey to becoming a NZ registered jeweller teaching me the trade. Mike has recently passed on, but his skills live on in myself and his son, Jeff Baker. Another jeweller who assisted me was New Zealander Simon Misdale.

What was the most popular piece of black pearl jewellery purchased from you last year? My passion is making hand-made commissioned pieces. Recently I made a gold fish hook pendant with a beautiful black pearl mounted inside the hook for a local master fisherman, which was a present from his adult children.

When & where did Fisher’s Black Pearl Jewellery start? We have been operating for more than 20 years, beginning with a workshop at home and a small retail area in our garage. Where do we find your business now? We are located on the main road in town at the market. What does the business offer customers? • Ready-made black pearl jewellery in gold and silver and handcrafted using local materials. • We will hand make or mount pearls brought into us on one of our premade findings, of which we have around 150 designs. • General jewellery repairs. • An enjoyable interaction with Rarotonga’s friendliest sales lady, Annie, who has lots of local knowledge about where to go and what to do when visiting. • Loose pearl sales. 6

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What makes black pearls so special? They are a reflection of our beautiful pristine lagoons. No two pearls are exactly the same and they showcase nature at its best.

Did you have a mentor or a person you looked up to, or impressed you, when you started your career. And if so, what was the advice they offered? Mike Baker and Simon Misdale: “If it’s not right DO IT AGAIN.” What is the biggest change in the pearl industry you have seen during your time in business? Covid has had a major effect on the industry as we have affectivity lost all our tourist customers for the past two years. Now our borders are open to NZ we look forward to increasing our business. Tell us about two special/ memorable moments in your working career... My mentor Mike Baker sent me a couple of his tools he used when he first started his jewellery career. I use them regularly and now they mean all the more to me. When Grant Harrison (Jewellery Industry Registration Board NZ) travelled to Rarotonga to present me with my Trade Certificate qualification. I was very honoured and humbled by this. I have to thank my wife Annie for her support so I could achieve this. In another life, is there another career you could have pursued? I left school and completed an electrical apprenticeship and have a NZ Trade Cert Registration. I also

Annie and Brent Fisher.

spent 15 years as a big game fishing captain. I am also a First Responder and Ambo Officer part time. Safety is a passion of mine, so I’m involved with road and water safety here on the island. I don’t believe in missing opportunities and at almost 60 years I have no wish to pursue other careers as I’ve pretty much covered what I wanted. I believe variety is the “spice of life.” How do you relax in your spare time? When your career is your passion, I find that the best relaxation. I would much rather be doing something than nothing and get bored very easily unless I’m busy. Two things that top your bucket list… Climb Mt Alfred at Glenorchy, as we used to live under her when I was a child. And for my wife and I to see our yetto-be-born great grandchildren. What is the most adventurous thing you have ever done, that has taken you out of your comfort zone? I’m scared of heights. I built a large roof two stories high and have parachuted twice. Favourite piece of personal jewellery? My wedding ring because of what it represents. Greatest indulgence? My relationship with my God. Without God in my life all this other stuff is meaningless. Jesus spent his life in service to others and I try to reflect that in my life by serving the community the best I can.


Since 1976, Peter W Beck has manufactured Wedding Rings right here in Australia. Using the finest technology, combined with traditional craftsmanship, Peter W Beck’s extensive range of Wedding Rings is world class and of the finest quality. For your free copy of the Peter W Beck Catalogue containing over 2000 styles, please contact Marketing on 08 8440 3369


NEWS NOTHING COMES CLOSE Member Ian Douglas of The Village Goldsmith, Wellington, has revealed a major breakthrough The Floeting® Diamond. A new setting that enables diamonds to literally float without claws, clasps or enveloping metal. The Floeting® Diamond is a testament to more than a decade of painstaking development. Ian, inventor of Floeting®, says the setting overcomes a hurdle he’s faced throughout his 40 years of jewellery-making. “Like jewellers around the world, I have always been asked by customers if it was possible to have a ring that displays a diamond without the claws surrounding it and until now the answer has always been ‘no’,” said Ian. The Floeting® Diamond is held in place by a micro-groove that has been laser-cut around the underside of the diamond in such a way that its light return is not affected in any way, as verified by the influential American Gem Society (AGS). The patented setting puts nothing between the diamond and its

admirer, unlike conventional settings. While Ian first imagined a floating diamond more than 20 years ago, focused development over the past decade has been enabled by the dedication of key people, advances in technology and materials and support from other key partners. “We’ve harnessed leading expertise from around the globe to bring Floeting® to life, including a master diamond cutter, laser engineers, metallurgists, scientists and testing laboratories, who have all been key to realising the vision of a floating diamond,” said Ian. While the Floeting® setting seems delicate, the diamond is secured from its underside with a high tensile specialist titanium alloy that is engineered down to a micron level to withstand significant stress loads. As a result, The Floeting® Diamond setting is proven to be 20% stronger than traditional claw settings, as

verified through extensive independent testing with Callaghan Innovation. The Floeting® setting is paired with platinum and 18ct gold and will initially be offered with a solitaire diamond ring, ear studs and pendant. While prices depend on the characteristics of the individual diamonds themselves, prices for a Floeting® pendant start from $2,400. Bespoke orders are also being invited. Ian: “The designs are intended to have very broad market appeal, although with our patented system we can accommodate a diamond from 0.30cts up to 100cts.”

PUCKER UP With its candy-coloured appeal London jeweller Ella Fearon’s lipstick brooch makes a splash. The asymmetrical party brooch features 22ct gold-plated sterling silver, 9ct gold details, hand carved Lucite and vintage pearls.

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ALL THE FUN OF THE FAIR On the 6th and 7th of February, the Jewellery Industry Network hosted its first live event for the year, the Jewellery Industry Fair, at The Timber Yard, Melbourne. As the first live event for the industry in more than two years, the JIF saw more than 450 guests attend. Entering the fair guests were presented with a showbag full of goodies and a free glass of bubbles. Along with a list of trusted industry suppliers, guests could enter a suite of competitions during the event, including the prize of a set of lab-grown diamond earrings and necklace thanks to JC Jewels; $2000 to spend at the Fair, thanks to the NCJV and an Introduction course to Gems and Gemmology, thanks to the GAA. At the end of the first day, guests and exhibitors were invited to attend the Jewellery Industry Fair ‘Sparkles under the Stars’ cocktail party, which saw many guests networking with new and reconnecting with many in a relaxed event. Exhibitors and guests alike were impressed with the Fair with floods of emails and social posts of support received in the days following. Including: “We had a fantastic few days at the Jewellery Industry Network inaugural Fair. We loved reconnecting with suppliers and seeing our members in the flesh.” Showcase Jewellers. “Congratulations on your effort to

Podcast recording with Champagne Gem.

From left, Ewen Ryley, Janessa Lawson, Laura Moore, Brett Low and Jeremy Keight, Jewellery Industry Network.

bring everyone together during such difficult times and to reinvigorate the jewellery trade. Looking forward to being able to attend future events.” - Palloys The Jewellery Industry Fair hosted a list of speakers during the event whose talks have been recorded and will be available on the Jewellery Industry Network portal to watch. Fair organisers also hosted Bebe or Champagne Gem. as she is known on Instagram and recorded a podcast episode with her, to be released on the Jewellers Podcast. With Showcase Jewellers, Palloys and a host of additional suppliers keen to rebook for the next JIN event, organisers are excited about the future of the Jewellery Industry Fair and its ability to assist the jewellery industry to grow. To keep up with information on the Jewellery Industry Fair and all Network news, head to www. jewelleryindustrynetwork.com Exhibitor Hamid Bros.

Najo’s range at the Fair.

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NEWS DIFFERENT DAYS AHEAD Robert McAuliffe has called time on a 48-year career as a jeweller and watchmaker in South Dunedin. The 65-year-old joined the family-owned business, McAuliffe Jewellers, as an apprentice watchmaker in 1973. The business was established by his father, Tom McAuliffe, in 1956. Robert was the third-generation watchmaker in his family, after his father and grandfather William. Robert made the ‘‘tough call’’ to close the store to spend more time with family. “It is a time of life decision and a step back from the

volume of work,’’ he said. “Although I am continuing to work part-time fixing clocks and jewellery from my home workshop. I’m still very busy with my old customers contacting me and also trying to clear the backlog I had when I closed my retail shop. “I do miss the daily face to face contact with my customers, well most of them and the connection with the industry reps who called. I don’t miss the strict time frames of 9am to 5.30pm you must keep with a retail shop. Life is more relaxed.”

Robert McAuliffe in his home workshop.

JEWELLERY SERVICES GOES TRANS-TASMAN New Zealand's largest jewellery workshop, Jewellery Services Ltd, has announced the recent acquisition of a leading trade workshop based in Brisbane, Queensland. “The COVID pandemic presents some unique opportunities for businesses with determination and

some appetite for risk to expand and grow, especially into new regions. Australia was always on the cards for us, but this was brought forward when an opportunity presented itself,” said Richard Mayo, Director, Jewellery Services, Auckland. “The existing business in Brisbane is a well-established, trade only

workshop with a decent size team of jewellers, all of whom will be employed when we take over on the 1st March 2022. From there we will look to grow our Australian business further, with expansion plans already been worked on for Queensland and other states across Australia. “For the past 35 years, Jewellery Services has perfected our systems and processes and these will be translated across to the Australia business from day one. The existing client base will benefit immediately from these enhancements and new clients will be extremely happy with the level of service and support we can offer the industry. We will start recruitment immediately for talented jewellers to join our Brisbane team, which will power our expansion.”

Jewellery Services’ Brisbane base.

Precious Gem Imports Ltd

DIAMONDS OF DISTINCTION Roger McKinnon

Joy Thavat

Freephone 0800 PGI GEM or 0800 744 436 10

JT2022 AUTUMN


SPACE DIAMOND

WITH LOVE

The Enigma, a 555.55 ct. fancy rare black diamond that is considered the largest cut diamond ever brought to auction, has been sold by Sotheby’s London for £3.1 million. The auction house announced that “the buyer (anonymous) has opted to use cryptocurrency for the purchase”. To have a natural faceted black diamond of this size is an extremely rare occurrence and its origins are shrouded in mystery, its thought to have been created either from a meteoric impact or having actually emerged from a diamond-bearing asteroid that collided with Earth.

Cupid, the famous god of love from Roman mythology, invites you to share a secret with a gesture meaning "shh!". The Van Cleef & Arpels Secret des Amoureux clip features Cupid surrounded by his traditional symbols, while perched on a purple-pink heart-shaped rubellite. His destiny is to spark love in the heart of men and women; the twisted gold thread bow holds an opulent garland of pink and mauve sapphires, while the arrows are punctuated with pear-shaped and baguette-cut diamonds.

PERIWINKLE BLUE HUE FOR ’22 The Pantone Color Institute has named Very Peri (Pantone 17-3938) its Colour of the Year for 2022. If you have never heard of “the warm and

friendly” blue tone, that’s because it was just created. This marks the first time that Pantone has whipped up a new hue for its Colour of the Year. It will now be added to the Pantone Fashion, Home + Interiors Colour System, its widely used colour standards system. Pantone’s choice for Colour of the Year has typically been influential in both fashion and jewellery circles. “Ideally this is a colour you would want to see in a stone,” said Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute. “Maybe there is a sapphire or tanzanite that could be closest to this colour. It is a colour very well suited to enamel coatings which could be included into fine jewellery.

COLOURED GEMSTONES

NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIUM GEMSTONE STOCKIST P.O. Box 37597 Parnell, Auckland Phone (09) 3778 038 Email sales@preciousgem.co.nz Fax (09) 309 6807 Website www.preciousgem.co.nz JT2022 AUTUMN

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NEWS TOP FIVE Luxury watches enjoyed a strong 2021, capturing consumers’ attention and spending dollars. Direct-toconsumer watch marketplace Chrono24 collected data from 100 million users, to list the most soughtafter watches of 2021. As for the most popular brands searched for and bought on the website, Rolex was, not unexpectedly, in the first spot, followed by Omega, Seiko,

Breitling, and Audemars Piguet. “These top 5 most sought-after brands not only reflect popularity, but also prove that watch buyers are looking for a sustainable investment,” said Tim Stracke, founder of Chrono24. “While Rolex, Omega, and Audemars Piguet have been exceptionally stable in value, Seiko is an ‘interesting newcomer’ to the top

TRULY BLESSED Lab-grown diamond specialist Vrai has created and auctioned three of what it has called ‘solitaire cross” diamond pendants. It believes them to be the first of their kind ever produced and the trio of pieces were blessed by Pope Francis. A press release from the company described the pieces as “a nearly inch-tall cross that is one single crystal of Vrai created diamond”. With a final weight of around 5ct, the pieces made use of a

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30ct diamond grown by Diamond Foundry in Washington State using renewable energy with zero emissions. They were then cut in San Francisco, California and polished in Vrai’s workshop in Xian, China. The December auction raised US$89,964 for Scholas Occurrentes, an international organisation present in 190 countries through an extensive educational network created by Pope Francis.

five list. The Japanese brand offers high-quality mechanics ideal for everyday use, especially for watch fans of all income groups.” Breitling is also new to the top 5 list, which the company credits to its “interesting innovations”. The Breitling Chronomat, as well as the Endurance Pro and the Superocean, were in high demand.


SIMPLY THE BEST

ART WORKS Heralded as one of the greatest jewellers of all time, the art nouveau master René Lalique is revered for creating works of art, spanning the categories of jewellery, glassware, and sculpture. A museum-quality collection of 39 exceptional pieces by Lalique collected by Paris-born entrepreneur Claude Henri Sorbac went on the block at Sotheby’s Paris. Lalique pioneered the use of innovative materials such as glass,

These earrings from Adam Neeley won Best of Show honours, as well as first place in the Evening Wear category in the 2021 American Gem Trade Association Spectrum Awards. The 14ct rose and white gold ‘Galassia’ earrings feature tanzanite (24.84cts), accented with Akoya cultured pearls and diamonds (4.0.4cts).

This René Lalique ivory, horn, enamel, and diamond comb is one of three ‘Orchidée’ combs created by the designer, as artists turned more to plants for inspiration at the turn of the 20th century. It sold for ¤738,500.

tortoiseshell, ivory and horn, as well as metals such as aluminium, bronze and copper, combined with other rarer materials such as diamond, precious stones and gold.

René Lalique’s Woman’s face and Wisteria enamel and gold pendant necklace sold for ¤88.200.

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Everything you need under one roof

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Phone us on 09 638 7378 or toll free 0800 881888 email cad@regal.co.nz, kirsty@regal.co.nz, louis@regal.co.nz

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NEWS MUST-HAVES FOR AUTUMN …

• Chopard cuff bracelet from its 2021 The Red Carpet collection in 18ct white gold and titanium set with a cabochon spessartine garnet of 24.09cts, sculpted mandarin garnets for a further 11.19cts, alongside triangular tsavorites, tourmalines, round lazulites, cabochon sapphires and round amethysts.

• A central brilliant-cut diamond is set into the curve of a sleek number 5, that itself is set with yet more diamonds in this Eternal No5 in white gold ring by Chanel.

• The Sapphire Petal necklace designed by Bulgari artisans to adorn the neck as if it were a flower with large petals. Embellished with diamonds and cabochon sapphires, it flaunts a large, 35.45 carat cornflower blue sapphire at the centre,

postponed to 17-21 March and VO Vintage is postponed to 18-20 March. • CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has announced that the gathering of its General Assembly, which had been

scheduled to take place in Vicenza, Italy, on January 24 and 25, has been postponed to 17-18 March. • This year’s Inhorgenta has been postponed until 8-11 April, as a result of ongoing covid-related restrictions in Germany.

COVID CAUSES RE-SCHEDULING • The 2022 JWNZ Trade Fair scheduled for March 6 will now be held September 11. • Originally planned for January, due to the constant changes in the COVID global pandemic situation, Vicenzaoro and T.Gold has been

AS I SEE IT … DON’T COUNT ON IT Invented in 1950 by Albert C. Carter and Abe Bookman and currently manufactured by Mattel, the Magic 8-Ball is a plastic sphere, made to look like an eight-ball, that is used for fortune-telling or seeking advice. The user asks a yes–no question to the ball, then turns it over to reveal an answer in a window on the ball. A standard Magic 8 Ball has 20 possible answers, including 10 affirmative answers, 5 non-committal answers, and 5 negative answers. The New York fine jewellery brand Eden Presley’s new Magic 8 Spinner pendant offers the same sort of fun, but with a luxury feel via precious materials. Ask a question, give the pendant a spin, and a mechanism inside will do the rest for you, giving classic Magic 8 Ball answers like, “Outlook good,” “Don’t count on it,” and “Try again.” The piece is crafted in 14ct gold with diamond accents and a ruby centre and is priced at US$3,800.

RHINO EMERALD HAS A NEW HOME Israel-based diamond and emerald supplier Eshed-Gemstar has purchased the largest high-quality emerald to come out of Gemfields’ Kagem mine in Zambia. The 7,525ct rough stone was discovered last year by geologists Manas Banerjee and Richard Kapeta and his team. 14 JT2022 AUTUMN

Gemfields reported at the time of discovery, Kapeta shouted, “Look at this rhino horn!” in excitement, which led them to name the large piece ‘Chipembele’, which means ‘rhino’ in the local indigenous dialect, Bemba. Eshed-Gemstar gained the rough stone during Gemfields’ recent

emerald auction. Terms of the sale were not disclosed. A portion of the sale’s proceeds will support the North Luangwa Conservation Programme in Zambia, which aids black rhinoceros conservation efforts.


FEB_Ad_MorrisandWatson.pdf 1 17/02/2022 2:30:57 PM

IN PARTNERSHIP

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Valérie Messika, founder and artistic director of the Messika jewellery brand and Kate Moss, British supermodel and businesswoman, have co-created the Messika by Kate Moss Opus 2 Collection, which includes distinctive works inspired by the world of haute couture. A year after their collaboration began, the pair present the second part of a joint jewellery project, including a wide range of designs that frame jewellery as an integral part of fashion. The pieces feature diamonds, as well as inserts made of malachite, turquoise, mother-of-pearl and onyx.

E. customerservice@morrisandwatson.co.nz P. 0800 500 654

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Malachite and diamonds from Messika by Kate Moss.

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GEM PARTNERS Dominican Republic’s Angely Martinez’s ‘Aqualescence’, a combination of aqua (water) and luminescence incorporates mainly Australian boulder opals. The collection’s ‘Island Bar’ ring features a 9ct boulder opal with a resin-set pearl perched at the widest end of the gemstone.

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EARRING EVOLUTION Creating a jewel that facilitates the use of technology or is inspired by it? It is a successful idea of Misho, Vibe Harsløf, and Earon: among the first to create earrings designed to hold in place AirPods, Apple's wireless earphones, or to reproduce in detail the design of an MP3 player earphone in a jewel.

Make a mould of your design to cast multiples without multiple print fees. Vulcanized rubber and silicone moulds from $30! Call or email us to learn more about available sizes.

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NEWS ‘JOLLY JELLY’ RINGS FOR 2022 Important, cheerful and innovative: the rings to be worn this year have a soft and vibrant look.

Monica Seitter … A Tahitian pearl enhanced by a double twist of petrol-coloured plastic, creating a tactile and visual experience that speaks a new design language.

NeverNot … Translucent enamel meets the mottled reflections of a large central gem in a ring with a soft character and fluid aesthetic.

La Manso … Transparent with a rainbow effect, recycled plastic changes form in the center to evoke an early morning stroll through the Trocadéro gardens in Paris.

A BLUE CHIP ITEM At the Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo New York watch auction late last year, a Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-018 with a ‘Tiffany Blue’ dial sold for US$6.5 million. The timepiece is one of 170 special editions, created in honour of Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co.’s 170-year relationship. First launched in 2006, Ref. 5711 is Patek Philippe’s most popular wristwatch. The Swiss watchmaker announced in 2021 it would discontinue the style, ostensibly to preserve some measure of rarity. The announcement further stoked the already hot second hand watch market, in which soughtafter timepieces sell for far beyond their retail price, Patek in particular.

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Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

CONTACT HELEN FINLAYSON P: +64 27 722 6000 E: HELEN@THEBRANDAGENT.CO.NZ JT2022 AUTUMN

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NEWS WHAT ON EARTH? University of Nevada Las Vegas geochemists have discovered a new mineral on the surface of the Earth. There’s just one catch: it shouldn’t be here. The mineral, entrapped in a diamond, travelled up to the surface from at least 410 miles deep within the Earth’s lower mantle, the area between the planet’s core and crust. It’s the first time that lower mantle minerals have ever been observed in nature because they usually fall apart before they reach the Earth’s surface, unable to retain their structure outside of a highpressure environment. In this case, the diamond’s incredible strength preserved the mineral and made the discovery by scientists possible. The calcium silicate compound, CaSiO₃-perovskite, showed up as infinitesimal small dark specks in a diamond unearthed from an African mine in the 1980s.

“For jewellers and buyers, the size, colour, and clarity of a diamond all matter, and inclusions - those black specks that annoy the jeweller for us, they’re a gift,” said UNLV mineralogist Oliver Tschauner, who led the study which was published in the journal Science late last year. The diamond arrived on the surface decades ago in Botswana via the Orapa mine, the world’s largest diamond mine by area. A gem dealer sold the diamond in 1987 to a mineralogist at the California Institute of Technology in Pasadena, and recently, Tschauner and colleagues, including UNLV geochemist Shichun Huang, got their hands on the diamond and applied a new suite of scientific tools to analyse its interior structure. What they found is a new crystalline compound that they named ‘davemaoite’ after Hokwang ’Dave’ Mao, an experimental

PENDANT WITH PEDIGREE The ‘Medusa’ pendant was one of Louis Comfort Tiffany’s earliest designs, so was no surprise the piece set a record when it went up for auction at Sotheby’s. It sold for US$3.7 million, smashing its pre-sale estimate of US$100,000-$200,000 and setting a world record for any Louis Comfort Tiffany creation at auction. The first design director at his family’s jewellery company, Tiffany & Co.), Louis started designing jewellery in 1902 for the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, a.k.a. the St. Louis World’s Fair. The pendant was showcased at the 1904 event, alongside 26 other items from Tiffany, of which only four are known to exist today. At the centre of the piece is a cluster of tumbled opals, from which emerge several stylised snake motifs, two of which are articulated and all of which are set with opals and demantoid garnets. The piece is further accented with rubies and amethysts.

A TOAST TO THE HAPPY COUPLE The perfect wedding present … This silver toast rack from Edinburgh silversmith Bryony Knox encapsulates the ideals for an object to be beautiful and useful. Each end depicts the elegant Hoopoe Bird, either perched on a branch or wing unfurled in flight. The detail is embossed using the technique of Chasing and Repousse, where the sheet silver is tap-taped with hammer and steel punches for hours, whilst embedded in a bowl of pine pitch. The toast rack holds four slices of toast, but would also work well as a letter rack.

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The new mineral carried to the surface of the Earth in a diamond.

geophysicist who developed many of the techniques that Tschauner and his colleagues use today. Tschauner believes davemaoite originated between 410 and 560 miles below the Earth’s surface - and its discovery highlights just one of two ways that highly pressurised minerals are found by us in nature: from deep within Earth’s interior or inside meteorites.


TIARA TREASURES Two tiaras believed to have belonged to Empress Joséphine Bonaparte were sold at auction as part of Sotheby’s London Treasures sale. Joséphine became the Empress of France in 1804 when her husband Napoléon took the throne. Both tiaras are part of parures and showcase the age’s Neoclassical style. The jewels also provide a historical glimpse into Napoléon’s reign, featuring ancient Roman motifs, a favourite of the ruler as he looked to assert the legitimacy of his power in postrevolution France. The carnelian, enamel and gold parure, circa 1808, had been on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum for the past century, said Sotheby’s. The set includes a diadem set with 25 carnelian intaglios, as well as a pair of pendant earrings, a hair comb, and a belt ornament. It sold for £450,660 well above its £200,000 to £300,000 estimate. The second tiara, is also part of a set. It is gold with blue enamel and features five oval-shaped hardstone cameos that depict the Greek gods and goddesses Medusa, Zeus, Pan, Bacchus, and Gaia. The tiara and the accompanying belt clasp and belt ornament were crafted circa 1805. The set sold for £126,000, toward the low end of its £100,000 to £200,000 estimate.

JEWELLERY FOR MEN smart, simple, tough but gentle on the skin

Comfort curve rings with cold enamel black inserts, 6mm, sizes 48-72 (1 stripe 0101-14 and 2 stripes 0101-17).

Black braided leather bracelet with titanium element and bayonet clasp. Available in 19 & 21 cm (0347-05). Classic ‘station watch style’ with red sweep hand, protected crown, sapphire crystal, date, 5 BAR (model 3625-05).

The two tiaras feature gemstones engraved with classical heads, believed to lend the wearer their representative qualities, like heroism, faithfulness, and love.

E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz P. 021 751 115 JT2022 AUTUMN

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NEWS SUCCESSFUL RELEASES

ENERGY MAPPING

The 2021 Professional Jeweller Magazine Collections of the Year celebrated the most commercially successful wholesale ranges launched into the UK jewellery market over the past 12 months …

The body is a complex territory that is still unexplored in many ways, according to Margherita Potenza, the Italian artist and designer who created the Body Cartography collection with the intention of mapping our body energy by identifying points of entry and exit. These gold-plated copper plates are designed to be placed on various nerve points of the body. Items that nurture our vitality, catalysing strength and awareness.

Natalie Perry Jewellery – Entwined. The winner of this year’s DesignerMaker category is an alternative line of fine bridal and engagement rings and unisex wedding bands. The collection features distinctive organic twisted bands and intricate flower-set gemstones made from 100% recycled gold. Yaa Yaa London – Motivation. Highly commended Fashion jewellery. Designed as colourful gemstone jewellery for those that know how to wear colour. Yaa Yaa London rings display beautiful, large, semi-precious stones in different shapes and textures.

Fabergé – 1842 collection. Highly commended Fine jewellery. The year referenced in the new 1842 Collection was the year of Fabergé’s founding, when Gustav Fabergé opened its first boutique in St Petersburg. This collection is inspired by the gold jewellery the company began producing in the years before the first Imperial Egg. Each piece showcases Fabergé’s iconic egg-shaped hallmark, in 18ct yellow gold. Origin 31 – Love hearts. Highly commended Personalised jewellery. Origin 31’s collection of love heart jewellery comes in four different categories: ‘Marry Me’, ‘Love You’, ‘Be Mine’ and ‘Bestie’. The rings, pendants and cufflinks come in 9ct gold with the buyer’s choice of words, initials and birthstones. Ti Sento - Timeless Energy. Winner Silver jewellery. The Timeless Energy range from Dutch brand Ti Sento comes in 925 sterling silver and also in 18ct yellow-gold plating, with handset cubic zirconia pave.

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IS THERE NO END? This take on the timeless design comes from New York Citybased jewellery designer Lindsey Scoggins, who worked for a major manufacturer in New York before launching her eponymous brand in 2016. Her ‘Endless Loop’ toi et moi ring wraps up two stones, in the case of the piece featured here, two diamonds, in a single loop of heavily polished gold.


OBITUARY - PETER W. BECK 1945-2021 Australia lost a luminary of the jewellery industry on 6 December when Peter W. Beck passed away. Peter was the founder of Peter W Beck Pty Ltd, based in Adelaide, Australia's largest privately-owned precious metal refiner and wedding ring manufacturer. Peter sadly lost his wife of 42years, Ann Beck, on the 8th of September, just a few months before his own passing. Following are some extracts from Peter’s eulogy, composed by his daughters Carol and Jenni Beck and Ann’s son Greville Ingham and read out by Greville at his funeral… “Peter was larger than life. He was often heard before seen, his bellowing laugh frequent and infectious. From aisles away at any national or international fair you would know Peter Beck was in the house! “He was felt before known, having dedicated his life’s effort to building a business within the jewellery industry and for the jewellery industry. No one could possibly doubt Peter’s loyalty, he was fierce in its defence. His business is Australian, through and through. “He had little tolerance for imports. He saw them as a blight on the growth of an Australian industry. Perhaps he was old fashioned in this, but he was also a visionary. It was just another challenge and challenges were Peter Beck. It drove him to look for ways to compete against cheaper imports, to make our Australian products better. He

had a jaw clenching determination to succeed where others have failed. “Technology and systems, he explored the world for better ways. When I joined the business he was quite clear to me that this was going to remain his domain - so dare not tread on his turf! “Peter was considered in everything he did. He chose carefully, we often felt like we would die from holding our breath waiting for the next pearl of wisdom, but he also chose bravely. He did many things in Australia before our competitors, bringing in new machinery techniques, developing new IT systems, looking for ways to reinvent ourselves in the industry. “His philosophy was to always offer help and support, but rarely ever ask for it. He knew the future resided in supporting those who wanted to give it a go. There are so many stories of Peter supporting businesses, apprentices, competitions and industry events. Who remembers the ‘Jewel of Adelaide’? “So where did that unique man come from? He came from honest beginnings. He was born in Adelaide in 1945, the son of Lorna and William Beck. He was a little bloke, but played rugby union, a fast half back that wasn’t scared of a hit. He grew up in the era of the Shadows, even wore Buddy Holly like glasses Later his musical taste was somewhat tainted, with music like Neil Diamond - the Hot August Night album - all 20 tracks end to end, over and over …

Peter Beck

“I could go on his love of motor sport, Bathurst, motorbikes, riding adventures, trips to trade shows, and his dogs. All significant loves of his life, including my mum Ann Beck, who sadly left us in September. “Peter cut his teeth and fell in love with the jewellery industry working for Engelhard industries. When it closed down in the 70’s he and mate Don Kearvel split the markets that Engelhard covered. Don, the industrial and Peter, precious metals. “Peter had married my mum in 1979 and they sat down one evening and he proposed a simple plan to her: ‘Ann we have $5000 in the bank - we can either 1/ buy a block of land or 2/ start a business’. The rest is history.”

A FUSION OF STYLE From emerging American designer Susana Graul Batlle’s Kingdom 2 collection, a ring with carved chrysocolla azurite, Mandarin garnet and tsavorites in 18ct rose gold.

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Pearls to be prized In December judges crowned the winners of the Cultured Pearl Association of America’s International Pearl Design Competition. Taking home the competition’s top prize, the President’s Trophy, was Tariq Riaz’s ‘DNA Interchangeable Earrings’. Judged to be the most beautiful and original design entry, the earrings are crafted in 18ct rose gold and inspired by the shape of DNA. The earrings’ removable drop has 96 hand-twisted wires set in 24 turntable bases that allow them to move and change patterns. The wires feature roughly 100 Akoya pearls measuring 4-4.5 mm. One pair of stud earrings has 3.33ct total weight emerald beads and 16 Keshi pearls measuring 2-5 mm. A second pair of studs has 1.15 carats total weight of turquoise beads and 6 mm Akoya pearls.

The ‘Corner Pearl Nacre Ring’ by Melanie Georgacopoulos earned the Visionary Award for Classic Styles, which honours a jewel that changes the dated perception of pearls. Made in 18ct rose gold, it features a lavender freshwater pearl and custom-cut lavender mother-of-pearl.

Melanie Georgacopoulos also took out The Wedding Day Pearls category with her ‘Exposed Pearl Nacre Bangle’, in 18ct white gold with white mother-of-pearl and a white South Sea pearl.

The Fashion Award, honouring a youthful, high-fashion design went to the ‘Pearl Swag Bracelet’ by Imperial Pearl. Made in 14ct yellow gold, it features Akoya pearls in varying sizes and diamonds.

The competition’s annual Spotlight Award highlights a particular pearl variety that changes each year. In 2021 designers were tasked with presenting a design featuring natural-colour blue Akoya pearls. The winner was the ‘Blue Wave Ring’ by Paul Klecka, made in sterling silver and platinum with a baroque natural-colour blue Akoya pearl and diamonds.

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Hairy and scary All those legs!

From the Hong Kong based jeweller Heting, each spider can be worn either as a pin or as a ring. The lifelike details of these gold rhodiumplated spiders with tsavorite details include articulated front legs.

Hemmerle's tarantula is chillingly lifelike, including its bulging body that is a 111.76ct dark brown conch pearl. Its legs are set with Umba sapphires.

Not one you would want to find in your bed. This brooch is a fantastically-weird spider sprouting leaves, from Lydia Courteille's Homage to Surrealism collection. Black rhodium gold, sapphires, green garnets and moonstones.

Lydia Courteille ‘spider’ ring in fire opal, orange sapphires, diamonds, green garnets and blackened gold from the “Xochimilco Garden” collection.

Ana Khouri Arachnid headpiece with black diamond and a white South Sea pearl.

Bibi van der Velden Cobweb bracelet in 18ct white and rose gold with white diamonds.

Design a Personlised Ring for a loved one. Choose silver or gold, select a birthstone, engrave the name of your special someone.

WORTH & DOUGLAS | PO Box 8566, Symonds Street, Auckland 1150 | 09 303 4666 | sales@worthdouglas.co.nz

CHRISW_LUVYOURING-Feb2022.indd 1

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Time to MA

Kilt pin: “One of two similar, I made this one for myself after someone went and bought the first one! A traditional Celtic ring brooch, I used a hollow silver tube to save weight and make it less of a hazard when wearing. It’s 70mm in diameter, which seems large, but is small compared with historic versions which had pins up to a foot long! 18ct gold dragon heads and a very fine madeira citrine.” TONY WILLIAMS, TONY WILLIAMS GOLDSMITH, DUNEDIN


AN UP Men’s jewellery has been described as the “problem child” of the jewellery industry, For decades, aside from a single ring or perhaps a leather bracelet, men have traditionally gone down the watch route, if they decide to wear any accessories at all, that is. But times are a-changing, research shows Google searches for men’s engagement rings were up a massive 69% in 2021 compared to the previous year and brands report there has been a notable rise in male trend-setters inspiring men to become self-purchasers. With up-and-coming trends, gender fluidity influencing the world of fashion and the endless possibilities of making sustainable pieces, there is and always will be room for growth. While men’s jewellery may not ever be bigger than women’s jewellery, perhaps one day it might be equal.

Cufflinks: “The diamonds total 0.50ct, E, Vs2, with the slightly industrial look of matt 18ct white gold - I hate rhodium plating - make the metal sing for what it is.” TONY WILLIAMS, TONY WILLIAMS GOLDSMITH, DUNEDIN


Just for men, crafted locally...

New signet rings available in all gold alloys and sterling silver, set with onyx. WORTH & DOUGLAS LTD, AUCKLAND

Braided double leather bracelet with equestrian snaffle bit and sterling silver caps, finished with an 18.5mm bolt ring clasp. Available in black or brown. GEOFF TAYLOR JEWELLERS, CAMBRIDGE

Platinum and moldavite. 14ct gold and lapis. LES RIDDELL, OBJECTS OF ART, CROMWELL

Classical gold men's signets.

Bold statement onyx rings with "attitude". ROLAND PLANK, SOLAR JEWELLERY BY K.H. PLANK LTD, ALBANY

9ct gold and black pearl pendant. BRENT FISHER, FISHER’S BLACK PEARL JEWELLERY, RAROTONGA

“A design which has become a firm favourite of mine, is based on a link. This design appeals because it represents the linking, or joining together, of two people. It’s very symbolic and meaningful to both men and women. I have subsequently made a number of variations to suit individual tastes and although quite different to look at, the overall concept stays the same. The three photos show how the same basic design idea can look very different, thereby appealing to different clients.” BRIAN BARRETT, BHB DESIGNS LTD, WELLINGTON 26

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“Another commission piece for a “This was a commission piece made customer who wanted a chunky ring for a customer who owned a black designed as a three-dimensional Viper Dodge sports car. He wanted representation of the knight pictured a cuff with the same theme, so I on his family crest. Sterling silver, designed this snake cuff based on rose gold.” the Viper snake, which has more depth and realism than the Viper Dodge logo itself. It fitted him like a glove. Sterling silver, 18ct yellow gold, black enamel.” STEPH LUSTED, STEPH LUSTED JEWELLERY & OBJETS D’ART. WELLINGTON

“A client commissioned me to make some cufflinks and a bookmark of a Newfoundland dog for her husband’s birthday - Newfoundland being his favourite dog. I hand sculptured the dog’s head using mitsuro wax, which was then cast and moulded. The pieces are sterling silver with oxide.” LYNAIRE KIBBLEWHITE, LYNAIRE KIBBLEWHITE GOLDSMITH, HAMILTON

An Everyday Gents & Ladies Collection Gents Gold

Ladies Steel

Ladies Champaigne

Ladies Rose Ladies Gold

Steel $199 Gold/Rose $229 Date Ronda Swiss designed movement 50 metres water resistant Raised index Guilloche dial Stainless steel case & bracelet Gents 41mm case, Ladies 32mm case e. sales@olympicwatch.com tel. 09 825 0061 for more info

Gents Steel / Silver

Gents Steel / Blue

Gents Steel / Black JT2022 AUTUMN

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From international collections...

Russian Ilgiz Fazulzyanov’s Genesis brooch with 13.4cts of pearls and diamonds.

With its black lava handcarved cameo head, Amedeo Scognamiglio’s lanky little skeleton in blackened silver with its crooked diamond crown and its big, astonished eyes can be worn as a necklace or bracelet.

Italian luxury jewellery brand Fope has entered the men’s jewellery market for the first time with a selection of 18ct gold and black diamond jewellery designed specifically for men.

A milky-coloured horn charm set with diamonds and amazonite is suspended from a white gold hook in this single earring by Brazilian jeweller Ara Vartanian.

Theo Fennell cufflinks in 18ct white and yellow gold with rubies.

From Deakin & Francis’s Rainbow Bumble Bee Collection. The collection was inspired by the paintings of rainbows that children made to symbolise hope during the UK’s first lockdown. For each pair of cufflinks sold, 10% of the cost went to the NHS. 28

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British unisex jewellery brand, Anchor & Crew, used vinyl to create a range of bracelets that bring a touch of colour to what is usually a category dominated by black and brown leather options.

Thank you to our 2022 JWNZ Trade Fair sponsors


JWNZ Spring

Trade Fair

2022

in the City of Sails

Sunday 11th September 9.30am to 5.30pm RNZYS Westhaven, Auckland Visitor registration is open. Register at www.jewelleryfair.co.nz

info@jwnz.co.nz

www.jewelleryfair.co.nz

Trade Only Event - Right of Admission Reserved. The impact the current Covid-19 situation and the change to a new Covid-19 Protection Framework introducing a Red, Orange & Green level system will allow the Trade Fair to proceed under Orange and Green. Please call Craig Anderson to discuss this or if you would like further clarification, 021 596 988.


The jewel in the crown by Geoff Taylor, Goldsmith & Jeweller, Cambridge When I first walked into a jeweller’s workshop and drew in the aroma saturating the working area, that moment changed my life, I knew immediately by the smell that was my occupation and it has become my work for the past 52 years. I knew there was no need to look further and with one single determined thought the question arose, where will I find the space and the master to teach this work? Eager to leave school, I ventured to every manufacturing jeweller to secure my place at the year's end 1967. After many rejections and my last possible chance, there came the opportunity for an apprenticeship the following January with a Wellington manufacturer. Again, the atmosphere and workspace drew me in like a magnet and I couldn't get my signature onto that apprenticeship contract quick enough. Never had I been so keen to start something as I was in this task of pursuing the craft of goldsmithing and jewellery making. January 1968 a new life began, even though the pay was minimal, it didn’t matter since the joy and excitement of the work was the true reward. My keenness was self-evident when I found myself staying back in my lunch hour just to mix a fresh batch of borax for the afternoon's work. There is no doubt that the curiosity of the mind was never short of creative impulses and was an endless source of inspiration imagining how to make the next thing an object of beauty. An art can only be learned by those who win their bread by it and 30 JT2022 AUTUMN

Geoff Taylor


Geoff Taylor signature piece - foxtail chain necklace available in sterling silver, 9ct, 14ct and 18ct.

a lack of cash with an empty belly was certainly a powerful tool to keep that creativity flowing. Practice was paramount, nothing could be done well without constant practice, and this is the essence behind all great works, it comes from endless endurance and patience. Ten thousand hours was the minimum time to gain the basics and from the techniques and methods learned…refinement was a possibility. Coal gas was the fuel back then and a simple French blow pipe for your soldering flame. With it you could increase the heat

Geoff Taylor 12 x 9mm emerald cut sky blue topaz gypsy set with 70 x 1.3mm bead set brilliant diamonds in 9ct white gold ring.

Geoff Taylor 8.9 x 7mm gypsy set oval green sapphire in 9ct white gold setting in organic hand carved wax and cast 9ct yellow ring.

with more breath or soften the flame with less breath. Control of that flame was an art in itself. The pumice you soldered on came from Lake Taupo and not the sea for that had salt impregnated in it, which obstructed the soldering. Metal was all alloyed in batches on the premises and rolled into a 9ct sheet ready to be made into anything required. I saw many beautiful big cameo brooches being fully handmade, engraved and set and for me the menial endless task of hand making cameo rings taught me the art of fusing 9ct gold. The older craftsmen

at the time had only been home from WW2 for 15 or so years and they had every skill one could imagine to make these beautiful pieces manifest. The old techniques had been passed down for hundreds of years and been brought here by skilled men from England and Europe and then passed on from one man to another. Lost wax casting was ancient in its origin, but almost unheard of in New Zealand, there were no jewellery casting people out there until Regal Castings was established in 1972. We did, however, do the odd

Beautiful reproduction antique jewellery – Perfect for Mothers Day A huge selection of earrings, rings, necklets, bangles and brooches, all handcrafted in sterling silver and individually bead set with Swarovski marcasites and semi-precious stones. Featured from left to right: 72-570B pendant, 18-1009BTP ring, 72-679 pendant and for a bit of evening drama 43-307 BTP earrings!

Something to suit every age and taste.

Contact: AM IMPORTS PTY LTD, www.amimports.com or NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown, M: 021-751 115, E: susi@twentyfive7.co.nz JT2022 AUTUMN

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difficult job in the workshop from a wax model and that was cast on the premises. Dies were made in the studio and after hardening were used to stamp badges, cluster backs and shoulders for rings and other necessities at that time. When the time came to send the lemmel to Johnson Matthey in England it was an amazing event and as far as I’m aware at this time there were very few refiners in NZ, except probably Morris and Watson; hence the work was done overseas for large amounts A 44 gallon drum was packed full with lemmel, sweep and sludge from the three barrel system setup for metal capture. All this was rammed in tight with an old car brake drum and axel. The lid was finally welded on and six men would lower it to the bottom floor down three flights of stairs on ropes. The work of a craftsman is about attention to the working surface, the place where the file touches the metal, or the flame strikes the object, or the direction in which the solder will flow with the heat. I often ask myself, what is it that gives me so much satisfaction doing this work over the years? Why do I still love to do this after 50 years, A man who works with his hands is truly free, so during these processes of craftsmanship there can be the experience of constant joy arising when that creativity is flowing and being transferred from an idea to a finished piece. Often people say when will you retire from your work? Immediately

the thought arises, I haven’t even skimmed the surface of this art form yet and a whole lifetime is nowhere enough time to possibly penetrate all aspects of this work. Money is certainly not the major motivating force to carry on, sometimes it's actually difficult to combine the love of the work and continue in the realm of business with all its rules, restrictions and constant changes. The average craftsman after he learns his skills is not actually prepared to be a businessman as well and generally needs to somehow wing his way through that gauntlet, as well as constantly trying to improve his skills and learn new aspects of his craft. Venturing into the realm of engraving, enamelling and gem setting become like separate trades and take a lot of understanding and effort. With endless practice and endurance it is possible to introduce some of these aspects into the daily experience of doing enough of the other basic things so the cash flow remains healthy. As the years pass and your attitude to things change, many aspects are presented to craftsmen in their development. Making one's own tools for instance, forging, grinding and finishing a punch from tool steel opens up another realm for the jeweller, it brings a new feel to the work and sometimes presents a greater understanding. After so many years as a craftsman, I can still find the same joy making a silver ring in the

Geoff Taylor 25.3ct 19.9 x 14.9mm emerald cut blue topaz set in sterling silver and 9ct yellow gold art deco style pendant with diamonds.

Geoff Taylor handmade sterling silver double curb necklace with articulating New Zealand paua shell pendant.

morning as I did when I first started, and for myself I cannot foresee an end to this work, just more exciting projects to do and creative urges to fulfil. It's the jewel in the crown when you find something you love to do and proceed with it, discovering that hidden master within as the daily development in one's skills arises, through dedication and practice.

SEND IN THE CLOWNS New Jersey auction house Rago/Wright sent in the clowns for its most recent auction. As part of its ‘Jewels XOXO’ auction, the company presented a selection of circus figurines crafted by Tiffany & Co. and designed by Gene Moore, a former window display designer for the jeweller. From the mid-1950s to the late 1990s, Moore was the man behind the window scenes at Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue flagship. He dreamed up the circus collection in the 1980s, picturing a miniature circus crafted in Tiffany’s iconic silver and bright enamel. The auction’s top lot (US$52,000) was a silver gilt and enamel Ferris wheel, featuring six figures and animals sitting inside nine swinging carriages. The Ferris wheel moves when pushed manually. The Tiffany & Co. circus also included a carousel which when plugged in turns and plays music.

This set of silver and enamel figurines sold for US$21,250.

The carousel sold for US$40,000.

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The silver gilt and enamel Ferris wheel.

A woman and her cats sit inside the wheel’s swinging carriages.


Fab Fabergé - Romance to revolution A missing gold Fabergé egg found by scrap-metal dealer and pair of sculptures owned by the Russian Royal family reunited for the first time in 100 years feature in a major Faberge exhibition at the V&A Museum, London until May. Across over 200 objects, the exhibition tells the story of

Carl Fabergé, the man and his internationally-recognised firm that

symbolised Russian craftsmanship and elegance, an association further strengthened by its connection to the romance, glamour and tragedy of the Russian Imperial family. Highlight objects include:

• The recently rediscovered Third Imperial Egg of 1887, found by a scrap dealer in 2011 – one of the ‘missing’ eggs created by Fabergé that was lost for many years. It appeared at an auction in New York in 1964, but was unrecognised and then disappeared until 2011, when it was bought for its gold weight value at a Midwest flea market. The buyer later contacted the antique jewellery firm Wartski who identified it as being an Imperial Easter Egg. The jewelled and ridged yellow-gold egg, on a tripod pedestal, stands on lion paw feet and is encircled by coloured gold garlands suspended from blue cabochon sapphires, topped with rose diamond-set bows. In the traditional Fabergé style, the egg contains a surprise – a lady’s watch by Vacheron Constantin, with a white enamel dial and openwork diamond-set gold hands. The egg was first given by Emperor Alexander III to Empress Marie Feodorovna for Easter in St Petersburg in 1887. Photo © Private Collection.

SA Manufacturing Jewellers In-house CAD design, 3D Printing using the latest cuttingedge technology, 3D Scanning, custom design, Stone Setting, Repairs and Resizing

CONTACT: SAM 09 3734876 ADDRESS 238 KARANGAHAPE RD, AUCKLAND sam@sajewellers.co.nz www.sajewellers.co.nz JT2022 AUTUMN

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• Two rare human sculptures that only after the Imperial Easter Eggs are considered the most coveted of Fabergé’s creations with less than 50 ever recorded. Commissioned by Emperor Nicholas II in 1912. Pictured: Kamer Kazak, or Chamber Cossack, Nikolai Nikolaievich Pustynnikov, personal bodyguard to Empress Alexandra Feodorovna.

• The Peacock Egg of 1907-8, shown on public display for the first time in more than a decade. This rock crystal egg, finely engraved with rocaille, contains a surprise of an enamelled gold peacock automaton, perched in the branches of a coloured gold tree with flowers in enamel and precious stones. The peacock, when lifted from the tree, placed on a flat surface and wound up, proudly struts around and fans out its tail feathers.

• The Alexander Palace Egg, Gold, silver, enamel, diamonds, rubies, nephrite, rock crystal, glass, wood, velvet and bone, 1908 © The Moscow Kremlin Museums.

• Painted enamel rose with nephrite leaves standing in a rock crystal pot, from Fabergé's London stock when the branch closed in 1917 © Wartski, London.

• A commission from King Edward of his faithful wire-haired fox terrier Caesar. Chalcedony, gold, enamel and rubies c. 1908. Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2021. 34 JT2022 AUTUMN

• The Moscow Kremlin Egg, Fabergé. Gold, silver, onyx, glass, enamel, oil painting, 1906 © The Moscow Kremlin Museums.


• A sparkling aquamarine and diamond tiara, a token of love from Frederick Francis IV, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin to his bride Princess Alexandra of Hanover and Cumberland. An important aquamarine and diamond tiara by Fabergé, aquamarine, diamond, silver, gold. Circa 1904. Photo: Mike Rathke.

• Doe and three baby rabbits. Agate, diamonds, c. 1907. Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2021.

• Fabergé particularly admired Japanese works of art. His imaginative 1908 silver cigar cutter is modelled on a Japanese Meiji period bronze. When the carp’s protruding pink chalcedony eyes are pressed, the blade opens across its mouth and the fish appears to breathe. Photo © Courtesy of the Woolf Family and Wartski, London.

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Merivale, Christchurch. Ph 03 356 3587 Email: sales@watchparts.co.nz


Tiger, tiger, burning bright February 1 marked the first day of the new Chinese calendar. This year’s zodiac animal is the Tiger with the Water element. This combination is said to possess high self-esteem and learning ability, in addition to the dominant traits of bravery, confidence and boldness. Those born in a tiger year can be charismatic and ambitious leaders, but they can also be short-tempered! Here are some of the brands offering creative visions of the seductive and alluring tiger for the wrist …

HARRY WINSTON

TAG HEUER CARRERA

Harry Winston has designed a new timepiece with cartoon-inspired tiger cubs playfully wreaking havoc on a watch dial. Each tiger is crafted in 18ct rose gold with stripes rendered by filling cut-out areas with red beaded mother-of-pearl. The scene is housed in an 18ct rose gold case, set with 57 round brilliantcut diamonds. Limited to just eight pieces.

The iconic Carrera replicates the tiger’s stripes on the dial in shades of blue. Two large apertures at 3 o’clock display the day and date. Turn the watch around and you will find a blue tiger on sapphire crystal. Limited to 300 pieces.

ULYSSE NARDIN The exquisite details on the dial, from the 3D-esque stars, moon and rocky surface to the golden tiger in pounce-ready stance, are the result of a combination of two enamelling techniques: champlevé and paillonné. Both centuries old, the former involves the carving of cells directly on the dial before they are filled by enamel. The latter takes strips of gold or silver which are placed one by one by hand to create the desired motif, before they are sealed into place with a layer of enamel.

PIAGET Renowned master enameller Anita Porchet is responsible for this Tiger rendition in cloisonné grand feu enamel. The watch comes in a 38mm 18ct white gold case and is decorated with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds.

CHOPARD GRAFF This tiger-themed timepiece is comprised of 127 diamonds, customcut to fit the slightly abstract design, alongside 35 cognac hued sapphires. In total, the piece contains 12.90cts of diamonds and 1.60cts of sapphires, including a geometric diamond-set bezel. 36 JT2022 AUTUMN

The tiger dial is meticulously crafted by master lacquer artist Minori Koizumi using the ancient urushi technique. It involves the use of lacquer made from the sap of the Toxicodendron vernicifluum tree; each layer of lacquer is dusted with gold flakes for a vibrant backdrop. The watch comes with 39.5mm 18ct rose gold case and is limited to 88 pieces


VACHERON CONSTANTIN The delicately hand-engraved tiger is applied onto a gold dial. The motifs are semi-embedded on the gold base with various accentuating reliefs for depth. The dial is then finished in grand feu enamelling. It’s available in a bronze or blue dial, with matching pink gold or platinum cases respectively. Each version is limited to 12 pieces. There are no hands; instead time is read via the top apertures showing the hour and minute. The bottom apertures display the day and date.

DIOR The stainless steel, pink gold and diamond-set case houses a decorative dial, adorned with a tiger’s head atop a layer of white and golden feathers. The dial is also decorated with marquise and trillion-cut diamonds. For the finishing touch, Dior offers this limitededition watch with a choice of a beige silk taffeta or black satin strap.

BREGUET The detailed dial of this watch was formed using a combination of bas-relief engraving and guilloche. Parts of the tiger are coloured using a black galvanic treatment to make the contours appear sharper and more defined. It’s finished in 18ct rose gold and set atop an ultra-thin movement, suspended from an alligator leather strap.

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Phone 03 389 9878 Email sales@finneys.co.nz www.finneys.co.nz


JWNZ PRESIDENT’S REPORT I had started the new year looking forward to our trade fair in March; alas, however, yet again it has been postponed, as it is not possible to proceed under the red-light level. It has been postponed until September 11th and, on a positive note, we are very fortunate that all the exhibitors are very understanding and keen to continue their support. Currently there is a great reluctance throughout New Zealand to travel and risk getting stranded. Although Omicron will still be around in September the peak will have come and gone, most of us will probably have caught it and survived and restrictions will have eased. I’m sure that when the trade fair finally kicks off there will be renewed energy amongst us and the event will be something special. We can be thankful that the jewellery trade is not subject to the strict mandates and controls that are causing such a headache for those in hospitality. We are free to set our own rules, but we certainly have a responsibility for creating a safe environment towards our staff and customers. Obviously, the measures required add to the costs and stress

of running a business. Although many businesses are suffering and struggling now, I hear from many in our trade that they are busy and doing well. An emerging trend during these restrictive times is the prevalence for social media communication within communities. I have read a lot of banter regarding good and bad experiences from people towards shops and tradesmen. I know from my knowledge of people in our trade that most are honest and treat their customers fairly, but sometimes there can be mistakes or misunderstandings. Just one bad experience often then leads to a bad write-up; once it starts, everyone chips in, and it can be akin to a stoning from biblical times. On the other hand, recommendations from satisfied customers will lead to a flurry of new business. Plumbers, painters and builders are usually the people in the firing line while jewellers, happily, have largely escaped criticism. However, our societies are changing and there are many emotionally charged people out there, so we all need to take care to protect

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Brian Barrett.

ourselves and to retain customer confidence. It is more important now than ever before to photograph customers’ jewellery when they bring it in, and to record discussions and decisions made before starting on a job. The time taken to do that prevents problems down the line. - Brian Barrett, JWNZ President Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz

GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ Everyone would agree that a holiday does wonders in terms of revitalising us. As a creative person I am aware how much I benefit in terms of renewed energy. I particularly love to visit new places and to try something new. In late January I spent five days diving on a boat in Fiordland. The helicopter ride from Te Anau to the boat in Dusky Sound afforded a scary moment as we tilted over and suddenly dropped down to seek visibility under a cloud layer in order to fly over a mountain pass. Nothing like an adrenalin rush to kick off the fantastic diving experience! Until that holiday I had been

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feeling a little like a caged animal, as have many of us over the last couple of years. I’m very aware of the impact that the pandemic has had on young people and their ability to travel and expand on their education. It’s been heartening, therefore, to have had approaches just in the last week from two very enthusiastic and intelligent young people seeking apprenticeships. I directed them to Grant Harrison, who is equipped to guide them through the necessary steps. I’m very aware that so many manufacturing jewellers are at the older end of the age spectrum and I am concerned as to the future

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of the trade in New Zealand. Last year’s Government scheme to assist apprenticeship training initially appeared to be such welcome news; unfortunately, our industry is too small to meet all the criteria for eligibility. Having said that, I would encourage members to consider taking on an apprentice. It is a huge responsibility, but it will help the future of the industry and it can be a very rewarding experience. - Brian Barrett, GGNZ Chairman Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz


WATCHMAKERS’ INSTITUTE OF NZ I’ve been asked by a few people recently about water resistance with regards to watches… so here it is in a nutshell. As most of you are (hopefully!) aware, most watches of reasonable quality, manufactured in recent years are water resistant to some degree, even basic dress watches. Whether they are labelled as just ‘Water resistant’ or given a depth rating in metres or atmospheres, they must meet some sort of standard. This standard is set by The International Organization for Standardization and is abbreviated to what is known as an ISO rating – in this case ISO 22810. The ratings for watches are given as follows: 30M / 3ATM / 3 BAR / 100ft Watches marked with this are only resistant to accidental water splashes, i.e. rain. Anything beyond that can be severely damaging. It's not designed to withstand showering. Generally reserved for dress watches. 50M / 5ATM / 5 BAR / 165ft – Watches marked with this can be considered great for everyday use. You should be able to get your watch thoroughly soaked, for example when you do the dishes, but it's not designed for prolonged immersion. 100M / 10ATM / 10 BAR / 330ft – Watches marked with this can be taken underwater without worrying that you'll damage it. It'll withstand swimming and snorkelling.

Witschi Proofmaster M air pressure tester.

200M / 20ATM / 20 BAR / 660ft – Watches marked with this are the ones to go for if you spend significant time underwater or enjoy high contact water sports. However, these are still not diver's watches and should not be used for diving activities. Diver's Watch XXX M / XXX ATM / XXX BAR / XXXft – Watches marked with this are the only watches that are marketed as ‘Diver's’ and have must meet the ISO 6425 standard. XXX will be 100 / 10 / 10 / 330 or higher. Most watchmakers will be able to perform at least some form of pressure testing, whether it be in a dry air tester or a static water tester. The dry air tester subjects the watch first to a vacuum test to effectively attempt to pull the watch apart and cause a gasket to fail and then to an air pressure test which then compresses it. During the wet test the watch is placed in a pressure chamber filled with water. Pressure is applied to the chamber after which the watch is removed and checked for moisture ingress. WATER RESISTANCE IS NOT A PERMANENT CONDITION! Normally a watch will leave the factory in a water-resistant condition. Unfortunately, as time goes by the gaskets will degrade and eventually fail. This can be exacerbated by UV light or exposure to chemicals such as chlorine and sodium, in the forms of pool and sea water respectively.

Roxer Natator 125 water pressure tester.

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Nick Parker.

Even opening and closing a watch can cause wear on the gaskets and in a worse case scenario for both the owner and watchmaker the gasket can become crimped and damaged by being pinched between different case components during reassembly. This is why a competent watchmaker will always recommend that all water resistant watches are pressure tested after the case has been opened and then closed. Although this only ensures water resistance at that moment in time. The only way a watchmaker can guarantee water resistance is to replace all of the gaskets in the watch and test it to the required standard. Obviously, divers’ watches are generally considered to be in league of their own when it comes to water resistance. As mentioned above they have their own ISO rating that covers not only water resistance but case design and legibility. These watches, if being used for diving purposes, should be regularly tested for water resistance and have the gaskets changed to ensure there are no accidents when they are being relied upon in a life or death situation. As always, my door is always open and if I can help in any way feel free to drop me a line. – Nick Parker, nick@pilbrowswatchmaker.co.nz, Ph 03 351 1320.

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The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc. M E M BE R BE N E FITS: Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication. JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry. Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members. Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members. Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy. BUSINESS SERVICES: ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking. ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales. Crombie Lockwood Insurance Brokers - Business, Personal and Travel insurances. CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent. Business & Personal Banking

Merchant Facilities

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions. Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales. Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions. Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables. Vodafone - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband Vodafone - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION:

Telecommunication Services

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand - Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training. TRADE & COMMERCE: Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development. 40

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JWNZ EXECUTIVE NOTES 2022 JWNZ TRADE FAIR As you are aware 6 March 2022 was the new date for the JWNZ Trade Fair and 5 March 2022 was the date for meetings associated with the event. The impact the current Omicron Covid-19 situation and the change to Red in the traffic light level system will not allow the Trade Fair to proceed. The Trade Fair is, therefore, postponed until Sunday 11 September 2022 and the associated meetings rescheduled for Saturday 10 September. Disappointing, yes. A number of factors were taken into consideration including venue number restrictions, discussions within the JWNZ Executive, including providing a safe environment for all those attending, both exhibitors and visitors and travel hesitancy from those outside Auckland. We are grateful for our extremely supportive Trade Fair sponsors and exhibitors, who remain committed to the event after rescheduling the event for the fourth time. So, having re-set our plans for Sunday 11 September for the JWNZ Trade Fair, we will have all our fingers and toes crossed that we will get off the start line then. Whilst we cannot control what will happen over the next few months and with September some months away, we will be keeping watch on what we can and cannot control.

MEMBERS MATTER SURVEY “Extremely disappointed”, in regards the number of responses to the survey is my reply when asked. Less than 4% of our membership replied. This was your opportunity to let the organisation know what you want from it in terms of your membership. Thank you to those of you who responded. It is noted that an electronic version of Jewellery Time, as well as the printed copy would be an additional benefit. It appears the status quo is acceptable to our members. However, the organisation needs to evolve in order to be relevant to industry today and in the future.

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JWNZ FINANCIAL MEMBERSHIP / ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS JWNZ membership has remained static during this time and your continuing support of the organisation through your financial membership has definitely been greatly appreciated. With your financial membership and the JWNZ Executive keeping a close eye on our costs and budgeting, we achieved a small surplus in the 2020-2021 financial year and look set to repeat this in the 2021-2022 financial year. To continue on this path, we still require your support and as such your annual membership subscription will remain unchanged. Our financial year-end is 28 February 2022 and your 2022-2023 annual subscription invoices will be sent to you in March. As your Financial Membership Certificate ends 30 June 2022, this will allow you three months to pay your subscription. There is the option of paying the annual membership subscription bimonthly by instalment. This option is used by some of our members to help with their budgeting.

MEMBER BENEFITS Currently we are investigating a couple of offers from business product suppliers. Once our evaluation is done and if we consider it beneficial to our members, we will advise these.

COVID-19 The last couple of years has been an interesting time. The Covid-19 pandemic has had an impact on us all and has seen changes to the way some of our members do business and for others it appears little has changed or even got better. We know our members are an adaptable group who have worked hard to maintain their business income, whilst keeping staff informed of any changes as well. Depending on where you live, the impact of Covid-19 and the associated lockdowns, business restrictions or otherwise will have

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taken a lot or little from you all. Resilience is born from influences beyond your control and many of our members have risen to these challenges. Anecdotally, it appears that trading was good for our members prior to and over the Christmas/New Year period. It’s been difficult at times to keep abreast of the information put out by our government as some appears contradictory and we have had to wait for clarification. Please keep informed on what might affect you and your business by regularly looking at the Covid-19 website for the latest information. Link - https://covid19.govt.nz/ alert-levels-and-updates/covid-19protection

NZ POST Changes at NZ Post saw some members have their accounts closed as they did not meet the NZ Post minimum spend requirement. This created issues and in regards getting them aligned with the NZ PostJWNZ member list, considerable time was taken to get these members accounts reinstated. If you are having account issues, please contact Craig Anderson to discuss. Everyone will be requested to advise Craig Anderson of their NZ Post Account Number, so we can ensure you can avail yourselves of the NZ Post-JWNZ agreement. We have all experienced Covid-19 related delivery issues, mainly due to staff related problems and additional parcel numbers. Expect these to continue for a while under the current Red setting. The Tracking function on the NZ Post website is useful if you are concerned about a delivery. NZ Post’s eShip is worth investigating to see if is an option for you to use. Craig Anderson JWNZ Executive Secretary PO Box 16007, Hornby, Christchurch 8441 T 021 596 988 E info@jwnz.co.nz JT2022 AUTUMN

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JEWELLERY INDUSTRY REGISTRATION BOARD That was a tough year, but for most workshops everyone seemed to thrive. At the moment we have six new apprentices to be loaded onto the online register and it’s fantastic to see employers getting their head around the training of apprentices and for Trade Certified Tradespeople being prepared to share their hardearned skills. As touched on in my last article the JIRBNZ AGM was held and among discussions “was ‘what is going on with the future of apprentice training in NZ’?” In short, we are now well into trying to interpretate the landscape that has been created by the introduction of what is termed the ‘Reform of Vocational Education’ (RoVE). RoVE is the biggest shake up of training in 50 years and like any big shake up, how everyone fits in is not always as acute as it could be. That is the policy makers depict with broad-brush strokes how everything is meant to work and then as an industry we have to navigate what is on the table, as to what suits our needs. Overall, the plan is to; establish Te Pukenga with 16 subsidiaries. Shift the role of supporting workplace learning from ITOs to Providers and establish six Workforce Development

Councils (WDC) There is to be a very strong iwi influence, with the makeup overall of each council to be 50% Maori. An industry voice in these reforms requires input and this is where we are trying our best to fit in. This is the same for other qualifications and you may notice the strong desire to have industry involvement here as well. Some of you may have been approached, so do be aware that the higher levels of ‘object’ creative art qualifications are not our qualifications and that it is important that any comments are not misconstrued to support candidates, having achieved these higher art qualifications at say level 7, are qualified and ready to go on equal footing, in a workshop with our Qualified, Trade Certified Tradespersons. No, different qualifications – not the same. It is also vitally important that as an industry we are seen to be supporting our own apprentice training and it is with great pleasure that I can announce who in the industry has committed to once again support industry training by being listed as a sponsor on the apprentice supporter banner for 2022. As an Industry let’s give

From left, Halfdan Hansen, Simon Colegate, Ashley Wakelin, Zane Colegate and Joel Whitwell. Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

Puri Panekiretanga – Keeping Standards High

Sponsors 2022

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these firms below the applause they deserve. I will be requesting more input to the above, so if you do have any views or can contribute, please email me. We are in a strong position to row our own boat and this is a tremendous advantage compared to other Industries. We have updated our, in the workshop on the tools, Apprentice Training Manuals and Record Books (Vocational Training) and employers continue to take on apprentices using the DACUM developed provisions for the prescription of terms, conditions and supervision of apprenticeship contracts. Pictured are Nicole Schofield and Ashley Wakelin with their Masters, receiving their Trade Certification.

– Grant Harrison Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand M: 0276930001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

Nicole Schofield and Les Riddell.


NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES PEARLS TO PLEASE

Make a beautiful statement with PEKA’s new cultured freshwater baroque pearl necklace and matching bracelet. Lustrous 4 - 5mm baroque pearls finished with a STG silver clasp. Threaded into necklaces available in 40cm, 45cm and 50cm lengths. Bracelet also available to complete the set. Available now at PEKA. Contact: PEKA, info@peka.co.nz, 0800 892 432, www.peka.co.nz

JUST RIGHT FOR THE WRIST

New Rochet strap styles, shortly available at Pacific Time Industries: The Nolita (Code 322) is a calf ear corn pattern with nubuck lining, available in 14, 16, 18 and 20mm, black or red. The Mustang (Code 572) is young bull with a nubuck lining, and available in 20 and 22mm, in gray, black, brown, tan, navy blue and beige. Available from March. Contact: Pacific Time Industries: Ph 03 356 3587, Sales@watchparts.co.nz

MOST WANTED La Stèle Lapis ring - The beautiful blue Lapis stone with sterling silver. It is a US ring size 8, designed to look bold and beautiful.

THINK PINK

Silver Perle thread earrings - Featuring a 6mm fresh water pearl on sterling silver thread- style earrings. Can be worn at your desired length.

9ct Rose Gold Natural Pink Edison Round 10mm diamond ring 0.30ct. Product code: IP778-RRG-EDI. Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 612 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.com.au, www.ikecho.com.au

Bijoux Chaos & Confusion - Made from sterling silver and copper wire. Designed to represent the emotion of the feelings experienced by many over the last two years. The necklace is a 45cm chain. Contact: Helen Thompson-Carter, Ph 64 274 203 137, helen@fabuleuxvous.com, www.fabuleuxvous.com JT2022 AUTUMN

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NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES FIRST CHOICES

JAG J2510A

ANIA HAIE NAU001-1 Pairing a solid 14ct gold mini padlock with a delicately crafted gold chain makes this piece an everyday jewellery must-have. Designed to encourage you to wear your fine jewellery every day of the week, this simple yet striking aesthetic is perfect for any style. $429.

THOMAS SABO CC1892 The stylised scallop shell stirs the senses: Inspired by the perfect shape of its natural model, the charm pendant consists of two parts and surprises on the inside, with a small, shimmering cultured freshwater pearl on one side. The threedimensional and richly detailed design is reminiscent of the beauty of the ocean. The jewellery can be combined in many ways thanks to the lobster clasp. $139.

DIAMONDS PF6281 Discover the new diamond initial necklaces - featuring a single diamond initial pendant which is suspended by a fine cable chain. Gold KT: 9ct | Dia CT: 0.06, Diamond grade: HI I1 Initial size: 8.0mm x 6.08mm, Length: 40 + 5 cm.

TW STEEL V594

The JAG Boss gun metal grey watch features a sleek band with gold accents on the multi-function dial. Features Japanese six-hand, date movement, 12/24hr time, 60 min chrono, tachymeter bezel function, full lumen display. $249. THOMAS SABO TS Set

POLICE PEWJP220

Inspired by a unique mix of glamour and nostalgia, relive the most memorable motifs of all time such as the winged heart, silver feathers and wrapped wing pendants, rings and earrings.

This new model comes with an exclusive Red Bull Ampol Racing Drivers signed watch box! Featuring a brushed case with shiny bezel, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, dark blue dial with race team logo, performance tachymeter and satin brushed steel hands filled with white luminova. The matching blue leather strap with black perforation features heavy yellow stitching plus a black brushed buckle. 10 ATM and three years worldwide warranty. $599.

The Gotham City edition comes alive with a radiant backlight feature inside a black plated stainless-steel case. The legendary Bat Symbol lights up across the dark honeycomb dial. A prominent crown is placed at the 4-hour position and is protected by the addition of a functional metal clasp. The watch is finished with a soft touch black silicon strap with The Bat Symbol engraved on metal hardware on each side. $649.

THOMAS SABO TPE933 Share the beauty of the seas with this playful, three-dimensional diver pendant in delicate shades of blue, carefully handcrafted from 925 sterling silver. $749.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent, helen@thebrandagent.co.nz, Ph 27 7222 6000. 44

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EASY AS Really, really comfortable huggie earrings from BOCCIA Pure Titanium jewellery.

Can’t afford gold? Try these fabulous Delicate hearts part polished/part Set with 2 x 0.04 ct diamonds 4mm part polished gold plated 6mm gold plated 6.7 x 5.9mm (Model part polished/part gold plated beauties (Model 0560-05). 05036-02). (Model 05045-04). Dozens of earrings options available, all 100 % pure titanium, super light and totally allergy free. Contact: Twentyfive 7 Ltd. E susi@twentyfive7.co.nz, P 021 751 115

MAY MUST-HAVES

YOUR CHOICE …

BOCCIA Pure Titanium is proud to present two new automatic watch options. Both have exhibition backs, sapphire crystals, date, luminous figures or indexes, 10 BAR. Model 3653-01 has a black dial and bezel while 3653-02 has a dark green dial and bezel. (Leather band options will be available in April) Contact: Twentyfive 7 Ltd, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz, P 021 751 115

OF THE MOMENT APPEAL Georgini IB187G, IE1009G, IP856G: The Candy Cupid Set. The Candy Cupid Set by Georgini features the sweetest heart perfectly handset with dazzling cubic zirconias. Pairing the three Candy Cupid items makes an ideal gift set, perfect for glamming up that party outfit with the girls. Crafted in 18ct gold plated 925 sterling silver for the Georgini finish. RRP: $99, $69, $129. New natural emerald designs in time for the birthstone of May. The featured new designs include a pair of 9ct white gold oval cluster stud earrings, 9ct yellow gold tear drop emerald and diamond pendant and a bi-tone-tone oval cluster emerald and diamond ring available in 9ct or 18ct. Contact: Worth & Douglas Ltd, Ph 64 9 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz, www.worthdouglas.com

Contact: West End Collection, Ph 61 3 9553 3777, Ph 021 400 053, nick@westendcollection.com.au, www. westendcollection.com.au JT2022 AUTUMN

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NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES SPARKLE WITH A FASHION INFLUENCER R1953100507: Chiara Ferragni full pave 32mm watch, RRP: $849. Chiara Ferragni was described by Forbes Magazine as the most powerful fashion Influencer in 2017 and has a current Instagram following of 24.8 million. CEO and Muse Chiara Ferragni’s brand became an overnight success story in 2015 and was featured in Harvard Business Review as a case study in brand building. Chiara Ferragni presents the Everyday collection of watches. Featuring a bold 32mm case set in all metal designs, embellished with zircon crystals and a sparkly finish, these watches embody the spirit of the Italian high fashion. With an all-zircon full pave embellished dial and strap, this watch is the perfect combination for a range of outfits.

NEW SENSATIONS J19AUW01, J19AUW02: Chiara Ferragni full pave necklace/full pave bracelet: RRP: $529, $319. Chiara Ferragni presents bold statement pieces embellished with zircon in the Chain collection. Glamorous jewellery pieces with a flair for attractive and showy designs highlight the ethos of this collection. Italian perfection in this fashion forward collection. Presenting the Chain Collection Full Pave necklace. Featuring glittering white zirconia, this necklace is perfect as a gift, or to complement an array of outfits. Complementing the Full Pave Collection is the Chain Collection Full Pave bracelet. Featuring glittering white zirconia, this bracelet pairs perfectly with the necklace for a glamorous Italian look. Shine with Chiara Ferragni!

J19AUV13, J19AUV05: Diamond Heart Fairytale Tennis Bracelet/Fairy-Tale Necklace: RRP: $219/ $319. Chiara Ferragni presents timeless designs in pink and white in the Diamond Heart collection. Glamorous jewellery pieces with a flair for attractive and showy designs highlight the ethos of this collection. Italian perfection in a bold collection.

Presenting the Diamond Heart Fairytale Necklace. Featuring glittering pink and white heart stones on a silver chain. Complementing the necklace is the Diamond Heart Fairy-tale tennis bracelet. Featuring a glittering fairy-tale stone on a silver bracelet, this bracelet pairs beautifully with the necklace for a classic Italian look. Contact: West End Collection, Ph 61 3 9553 3777, Ph 021 400 053, nick@westendcollection.com.au, www. westendcollection.com.au

DIRECTORY

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DIRECTORY

• Quality Akoya & Freshwater Pearls • Unique semi-precious necklaces • BOCCIA Titanium Watches & jewellery • ESSE Marcarsite Sterling Silver jewellery

Importers and wholesalers of premium Gold and Sterling Silver findings for

PO Box 62, Morrinsville 3340, New Zealand I E: susi@twentyfive7.co.nz P: +64 7 889 3545 I M: + 64 21 751 115

manufacturing jewellers and retail jewellery stores. Quality findings for your new creations and repairs. Recently under new ownership; based in the Bay of Plenty and welcome clients Nationwide. Contact Julie on 09-478 9950 or info@nzfindings.co.nz www.nzfindings.co.nz

New Zealand’s leading Safe & Vault specialists.

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Bullion Safes Jewellery Safes Cash Safes Modular Vaults & Vault doors

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Ph: 0800 723 365 JT2022 AUTUMN

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DIRECTORY

ARGOSY GEMS for Design Work & Trade repairs. Sourcing of Gems from the cutters. Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, trade repairs. Prompt Turn around of your Jobs. Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com

Carl Yung Gems Ltd Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available. P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland. Ph: 09-623 2078 Fax: 623 2080 Email: info@carlyung.com

Philip Green

Watchmaker NZHI, JWNZ P 09 536 7148 M 021 718 723 9 Maria Tini Drive, Papamoa 3118 p 07 5749410 f 07 5749411 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz

E mastertime@xtra.co.nz www.mastertime.co.nz

68 Pine Harbour Parade, Beachlands, Auckland 2018

Our Clocks range from traditional to contemporary, Collectables to Grandfathers. Pronto Clock Company Ltd Ph 07 880 9795 info@prontoclocks.co.nz

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1st Floor Gibson Sheat Centre 1 Margaret Street, Lower Hutt 04 939 2032 rings.co.nz

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