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However, the rush is now to the Amaniena (Route

de Ouarzazate; oo zrz 44

40 33 53; amanresorts. com), a beautiful hotel built around water and colonnades just seven kilometres from town.

A favourite with G.,,'1;c Mrchrrel Rerlf crcl and Pitt stayed during where and filming. Pavilions are from f5oo per night. The cognoscenti, meanwhile, are now opting to stay at the newly renovated riads. These small city palaces are hidden away in the lanes and alleyways of the medina. Take

the Riad el Cadi (oo zrz 44 37 86 55), for instance, owned by the former German

mixed starters and sweet pastries for

ambassador and home to his extraordinary

dessert. From about.dr8 for the set menu.

collection of Ottoman embroideries, Byzantine artefacts and Anatolian kelims.


Twelve rooms, a courtyard, a swimming pool and a first-century capital as your bed-

The medina

side table, Jasyrt,r Corrrirri loved

it. Taxis cannot take you there, you call from the main square and an escort will lead you through the alleys and lanes. Rooms from MAD r,roo ({66) .

of narrow streets and can alleys and be difficult to negotiate unless you know it well. Each craft has its own area - silver, brass and copper, rugs, fabric, metalwork, leather, babouches (the pointy slipon shoes). Barter if you want to


buy. Take your time and enjoy the ritual.

Dar Yacout (oo zrz 44 38 L9 z9). Situated in

For antiques, head to La Porte D'Or (rr5 Souk Semmarine) - old rugs, pricey jewels, or Al Badii (54 Boulevard Mlly Rachid, Gueliz). For leather and suede, head for Flace Vendรถme (14r Avenue Mohammed V), or Galerie Birkemeyer (r55-r67 Rue Mohammed El Beqal), both have Vuitton, Gucci, Hermรถs look-alikes and can have

an opulent old palace, everyone from Prrtcess i-lr':rl r,,r tO ,i, ,.t and Jr-)r)nlti.: Best


idebo ok Footprint


Handfuk - the Travel Guide B, novelHrdeous




KinW by Esther

Freud (86.99, Penguin). Et,rt greui" The Sheltering Sky, the Beilolucci film based on the Paul BowlSs book of the same narne.

have been here. Traditional Moroccan food

with a set menu, including wine, about d35. Topsil (oo zrz 44 q4 40 5z), the newer, whizzier version of the above with a more

modern slant on the food. Set menu, including wine, about {28. At Fassia (oo zrz 44 44 U 49) - food, as ever, a mix of lamb and chicken or vegetarian tajines, with


take a guide (your hotel will

recommend one). Not that it isn't safe, but because it's a maze

clothes made-to-order within z4 hours. Try Au Fil D'Or (ro Souk Semmarine) for kaftans

in the finest Swiss cottons and for a modern






take on traditional clothes, head for Beldi (n

and calm. Tropical plants, including cacti


Souikat laksour). For painted glass, perfume bottles and great perfume, head for

and bamboo, set off by bright blue and green painted paths and pots, as well as

L'Orientaliste (r5 rue de la Libert6). Finally,


the most beautiful shop/gallery in the ciry is Riad Tamsna, a ca{6 and book store on the tr U

2 o l


z tr L



floor of this renovated riad and


boutique seiling lewellery, silk, woven bags

and slippers. You have to phone for an appointment (oo zrz 44 38 5z 7z).


รถ o u 4 4. 6 o



; n;

collection of carpets and ceramics.

a deep, nutty-tasting

weavers, the colours are mouthwatering

the prices eyewatering. From approxime a

small one. tD A bottle of argan

oil from the fruit

The r6th-century Saadian Tombs were

the argan tree found only around Essor

created by refugees from Spain and have

Delicious with bread, pasta or in dressi

of ancient

Approximately f,8. O A dozen tea gla from the souk for approximately


charmers, admire the dentists and bar-

,.)r.l.i.:!r(.i i:her.,r r Royal

(0845 773 3377').

nights bed and

Air Maroc flies daily hom

Abercrombie & Kent

breakfast at the Riad El Cadi, fom e690, includin

Heathrow to Marrakech via

offers four nights at La

bers at work. Apart from gas cylinders, plirs-

Casablanca. From

Mamouniao from 8790 per

flights and transfers. For


tic bowls and a smattering of electricity, the


person, and four nights

further informatiรถn, call


scene hasn't changed in cerliuries.

at Amanjena, from f'l ,675 per person, room only,

0845 0700 6't 7, or visit


6 o a 6



after 4 March

(020 74s9 4361).

except Sundays, from





tsritish Airways flies daily,

it tr


At dusk on the main square, Djemaa el Fna, when the locals gather to eat (don't be

tempted no matter how delicious the smells), listen to the storytellers, watch the


f8o for

Moorish plasterwork.



,.ylirt r.QยงltY O A shawl woven in iridescent silks fr Beldi. The work of French weaver Bril Perkins, who has re-taught the art to I

of bougainvillea. It is now owned by :rr,rir:t:t and is next door to his home. The Mus6e d'Art lslamique is the painter's former studio and houses YSL's

, -,1

some wonderful examples

o o

L &'{1,".i

The Jarciin Majorelle, cre2lted by French artistJacques Majorelle, is a haven of shade



after 14 March uk

including flights and transfors. lt also offers four

the dirham

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