Riviera Insider - September/October 2018

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MONACO YACHT SHOW News & stories from the world’s leading event

GOURMET Rosé on the rocks: could stores run dry?

LIGURIA Exploring the beautiful Italian Riviera

ART & CULTURE Tom Wesselmann & Château La Coste

riviera see more, do more, know more

28055 – 180 – F : 4.90 €

# 180 sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018 4,90 € The













Editorial By PETRA HALL

Autumn is a very special time on the French Riviera.

52). It is easier than you might think to get

There is still plenty of big business activity – with

involved with these vendanges for grapes and

major events such as Les Voiles de Saint Tropez

récoltes for olives. Many are small-scale

(page 40) and the Monaco Yacht Show (from page

operations on family-run estates where every

10) both on the horizon for the end of September as

spare pair of hands is welcomed in exchange

well as an international meeting of players from the

for a Provençal lunch in the field.

self-driving car industry (page 72) earlier in the

I, for one, will be relishing the dropping off of

month – but the tempo undoubtedly begins to slow.

the intense heat that we have experienced

One particular highlight of the season for me is

over the last few months. As I write, I am

watching the region embrace its agricultural roots


with the annual harvests of its groves and

temporarily! – ahead of the birth of my first

vineyards. After the difficulties of last year, which

child. My colleague Nicole Ruskell will be





saw production fall by nearly 20% across the

stepping in to replace me and I am looking

country, wine producers in the south of France will

forward to experiencing the magazine as a

have their fingers crossed for a better 2018 (page

reader, not its writer, for the first time.







Elsa Carpenter (editor-in-chief) has worked as a journalist in the south of France for many years, and brings her modern vision for the media to our magazines. She is deeply invested in the culture and lifestyle of the Côte d’Azur, and is keen to share her passion for the region with our readers.


Bich Lecourt (managing director) was born in Antibes. Since completing her PhD in Economics, she has worked in Sophia Antipolis so is well-acquainted with the business ecosystem and atmosphere of the French Riviera. From architecture to interior design and décor, Bich likes discovering new parts of the region and enjoying the quintessential Côte d’Azur lifestyle.



Petra Hall (founder) established the newspaper Riviera-Côte d’Azur Zeitung (now RivieraZeit) in German 26 years ago. It was followed by The Riviera Times, a magazine that has blossomed into Riviera Insider, in 2003. Her goal was always to provide readers with exciting, informative and unique insights written by professional mother-tongue journalists. She has become an institution on the south of France and Monaco's media landscape in her own right. Nicole Ruskell (editor) discovered her passion for journalism and its ability to connect people while working as the editorial director for academic journals. She has a Masters degree in journalism and over 10 years’ experience in editorial management. The California native has worked throughout the French Riviera and Liguria, and is committed to well-being and organic principles.)

Vincent Artus (art director) has a gift for transforming visions and ideas into reality. The Niçois creative talent has as a penchant for clean lines and playing with white space for optimum effect and has brought a fresh, stylish look to our publication. The multi-talented creative is also a photographer and videographer. Françoise Muller (sales & marketing) is originally from Dijon, but has been living and working on the Côte d'Azur since 1993. For 14 years, she has thrived on her work in the communications and marketing industry, and is now an enthusiastic member of our team. Her hobbies include literature and sports. Patrice Saint-Léger (sales & marketing) has been working in the communications sector for more than ten years. After studying business administration and entrepreneurship, our Cannes-born publicist discovered his passion in the advertising business. During his free time, his interests lie in sports and nature. Daniel Naro (sales & marketing) nearly became a professional footballer in his northern French home of Metz. Plan B was the insurance industry, but 25 years later, he sought the sun and found it on the Côte d'Azur. After re-launching his career in the media, he recently joined the professional Riviera Press team. Dominique Freulon (events & distribution), who was born in Paris and has been living on the Côte d'Azur for 15 years, puts maximum energy and dynamism into working in our marketing department. She is a true 'people person' and has always been an admirer of our magazines. Her hobbies are travelling in faraway countries and literature. sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018





The Hotlist News from the region

6 Monaco Yacht Show An interview with Gaëlle Tallarida, the event’s visionary director

12 Facts & Figures

14 Patrick Pruniaux: an odyssey beyond borders

18 For the love of machines: photographer Tom van Oossanen finds his niche

20 Reporting from the Yacht Club de Monaco


Liguria Head of tourism Giovanni Berrino shares his hopes for the region

35 Porto Mirabello: Italy’s newest & largest yacht harbour

36 Food & wine from the Gulf of Poets

39 Saint Tropez High-tech meets tradition at Les Voiles



Earning respect & recognition on the world stage

28 The Ambassadors Club


Rosé on the rocks

52 Wine at Antibes’ Le Figuier de Saint Esprit

54 Lifestyle Château La Coste & its made-to-measure art

58 Island getaways: the top end of a sharing economy

64 Sport Teeing off on the Côte d’Azur

Art & Culture Unknown Monaco


Tom Wesselmann: more than ‘the guy who did tan lines’

48 The Philharmonic Orchestra of Nice’s tractor-driving conductor


68 Eco A life without plastic

70 Business & Finance How Sophia Antipolis is becoming a hub for tomorrow’s automotive industry

72 Events What’s on the agenda?

78 Riviera Press A summer soirée at the Observatoire de la Côte d’Azur

80 Community Riviera Insider on tour

86 The Expat Focus





Joël Robuchon: the loss of a legend By BY NICOLE RUSKELL Photo © STÉPHANE DE BOURGIES


The world has lost one of its greatest chefs. Joël Robuchon was an absolute idol in the culinary and hospitality industries, and won countless awards, accolades and titles over his nearly six decade-long career. Considered the most influential chef in France, Robuchon was recognised for his ethic and creativity early on. He was voted Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1976 and Chef of the Century in 1989, and continued to set precedence and push the boundaries of French cuisine throughout the ensuing years. His numerous cookbooks have been published in many languages, illustrating his reach far beyond his native France. Robuchon was born in Poitiers just before the end of World War II. Growing up on a diet of simple dishes, he had a life-long respect for traditional ingredients. One of the most famous stories about Robuchon tells how he shocked the haute cuisine scene when he put mashed potatoes on the menu of his first restaurant, Le Jasmin in Paris. It was a courageous act for a young chef and it payed off. It was the first time in the history of the guide that a chef accumulated three Michelin stars in three years. After his retirement from the kitchen at age 50, Robuchon continued his work in other ways by inspiring and teaching new chefs, and opening over 20 restaurants around the world – over a dozen in Asia alone! With a total of 32 Michelin stars across his restaurants, Robuchon was the most starred chef in the world. In 2009, he was honoured with the Laurent Perrier Lifetime Achievement Award. A regular here in the French Riviera, Robuchon was well-known for his restaurants in Monaco: Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo (two Michelin stars), Yoshi (one Michelin star) and Odyssey, all located in the Hôtel Métropole. “I love the principality with its international clientele,” he told Riviera Insider in an interview in 2015, adding that his Monegasque guests were among his most open, objective and cosmopolitan. Robuchon passed away on 6th August aged 73 after a battle with cancer. He is survived by his wife, Janine, and their two children, Sophie and Louis. 

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News from Monaco By LEILA ZEMIRLI

For over a century, the princes of Monaco have been fascinated by – and dedicated to – the ocean. Now visitors to the principality’s famous Oceanographic Museum can explore their personal journeys of conservation and exploration in a new interactive space and exhibition that opened earlier this summer. Monaco & l’Océan: de l’Exploration à la Protection (translation: Monaco & the Ocean: from Exploration to Protection) unites the passions of three Monegasque princes. The goal is not only to raise awareness about the ocean among the 650,000 visitors who come to the museum each year, but also to tell the stories of the sovereigns in a 700m² interactive environment. It starts with a focus on Prince Albert I, who devoted a great period of his life to oceanography (between 1885 and 1915), earning himself the nickname Prince of the Sea. The exhibition then shifts to Prince Rainier III, who was known for his appreciation of the Mediterranean Sea, and who worked alongside Commander Jacques-Yves Cousteau, the head of the Oceanographic Museum for 30 years. Finally, the visitors can find out about Prince Albert II’s activities in the marine field and how he has confronted various contemporary challenges in the preservation of the world’s oceans. Visitors can play their own part in the Monegasque love affair with the water, such as trying to save sea turtles or discovering the Gulf Stream via interactive roleplay experiences. www.oceano.mc


© Cédric Fruneau / Musée Océanographique


A major milestone has been reached for the principality’s ambitious land extension project, with the first of 18 concrete caissons rising out of the Mediterranean. At the end of July, Prince Albert II and key representatives (including: Andrea Casiraghi; Martin Bouygues, CEO of Bouygues; Guy Thomas Levy-Soussan, representative administrator of SAM Anse du Portier; Serge Telle, Secretary of State; and Monseigneur Barsi, who blessed the caisson) headed out into the waters off the coast of Monaco for the official unveiling of the first visible step of the six-hectare development. Over the next 12 months, 17 other caissons will be put in place with the maritime works due to be completed in 2020. The land extension will become an ecodistrict called the Anse du Portier (translation: Portier Cove). It will include an additional 9,000m² for the Grimaldi Forum culture centre, 3,000m² of shops, a 1,000m² public park and other public facilities such as a car park (for 160 vehicles according to the latest information provided by the government). Over 100 private homes are also expected to be built. 


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Riviera Christmas Child box separately in colourful paper and close it with a rubber band. You should identify whether the box is intended for a boy or girl and also the target age group (two to four, five to nine, and 10 to 14). Those making their donation online can also print out a unique barcode and include a copy inside the box (on top of the contents) to track their box and see which country it is eventually delivered to! If you’d like to support the project, but maybe don’t have the spare time, Riviera Christmas Child will fill a box on your behalf for €25 (including the standard €5 to cover its shipping and delivery). The closing date for this option is 8th October and you can contact the team via the Facebook page to arrange payment. “A small shoebox can have a big impact,” Hazel concludes. “What goes into the box is fun, but what comes out of it is eternal. Be a part of changing children’s lives all over the world through the power of a simple gift box with Riviera Christmas Child.”  © Samaritan’s Purse


The French Riviera branch of Operation Christmas Child, an initiative started in 1990 by the non-profit organisation Samaritan’s Purse, is calling on the support of Riviera Insider readers for its 2018 push. Since the project began, it has sent over 146 million shoeboxes filled with gifts to vulnerable and disadvantaged children in 150 countries around the world. Over the last few years, a group of expats in the south of France have banded together to organise a local effort, which has proven fruitful and well-received among the community, but more can always be done. “Living on the French Riviera and bringing up [our] families in this lovely, privileged part of the world is a million miles away from the sort of lives many other families experience,” says Hazel Fowler. “Donating a funpacked shoebox to Riviera Christmas Child is a simple something we can all do and get our children or grandchildren involved in too, to help them understand what life is like for deprived children in other countries.” In 2017, the team helped pack and collect nearly 300 boxes that were sent on to children in the Ukraine and Libya. Their target for this winter is 400+. “The cost of a shoebox and its transport is €5, which we ask people to pay on taking a box,” she continues. “Filled boxes should be returned to one of our team spread around the region by 15th October or to our dropoff day in Vallauris on 16th October. This allows us to get all the shoeboxes to one central point, pack them up and get them on a lorry to the OCC’s distribution centre in the UK in time to be delivered to the children for Christmas!” The shoeboxes can be pre-ordered via the Samaritan’s Purse and the Riviera Christmas Child team or you can recycle any medium-sized shoebox you have at home, wrap the lid and sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018

WHAT TO PACK? The essentials

 Toothbrush and toothpaste  Flannel and bar of wrapped soap  Comb or brush  Set of pens, pencils or crayons  Notepad and/or colouring book  School supplies  edible treats (best before date must be at least March 2019 & avoid chocolate)  Hats, caps, scarves, gloves, sunglasses or other easily packed apparel

Thoughtful extras

 Toys such as skipping ropes, yoyos, balls and puzzles  Cuddly or stuffed toys and dolls  Hair accessories  Small-sized musical instruments like a harmonica or recorder  Wind-up torches  a personal note and/or a photo of your family

Not to be included

 Used or damaged items: please purchase all gifts new  War-related items such as toy guns, play soldiers or knives  anything of a political, racial or religious nature  Liquids or lotions of any type including bubbles  Medicines  Sharp objects, glass containers, mirrors or fragile items  Playing cards of the 4-suit variety  Clothing other than the items suggested Local information can be found at on the Facebook page, search: riviera Christmas Child For more information, please visit the official Samaritan’s Purse website: www.samaritans-purse.org.uk




UNESCO application for Mediterranean Alps In a bid to protect their geographical heritage and biodiversity, France, Italy and Monaco have jointly committed themselves to a UNESCO World Heritage application for the cross-border area of the Mediterranean Alps, which covers both land and sea in the Alpes-Maritimes and Alpes-deHaute-Provence departments of southeast France and the regions of Piedmont and Liguria in north-west Italy. The application is now among 43 selected from around the world that will undergo a thorough examination by the international organisation. The next step in the process will be a number of visits to the area by geologists and specialists, who will be in Monaco during the second half of September. The project was officially launched by the Italian government in January 2018 following the signing of a document by Bernard Fautrier, the vice chairman and of the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation; Paolo Salsotto, the president of the Parco Alpi Marittime; and Charles Ange Ginésy, the president of the Alpes-Maritimes. It follows more than ten years of work, including the registration on the Tentative List of the three countries involved and multiple reviews by ministerial bodies and agencies of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Speaking of the site, Monaco’s Prince Albert II says, “This exceptional area is located on the border of three countries. It combines three cultures and brings together three populations under a shared common



objective: protecting this space. It is together that we submit this application to the UNESCO World Heritage List, which will acknowledge all of our efforts to protect the Mediterranean Alps that are so deserving of international recognition.” A decision on the application is expected in early July 2019 (during the 43rd session of the World Heritage Committee in Baku, Azerbaijan). 


This autumn, the 35th edition of Roc d’Azur will be the stage of a new race: Gravel Origins 83, an opportunity for gravel bike riders to discover the most impressive landscapes of the Var. With over 20 thousand participants and 150 thousand visitors from 50 countries around the world during the last edition, it is the number one mountain biking event in the world in terms of participation. This year, Roc d’Azur will take place from 10th to 14th October, four days during which two will be dedicated to the new Gravel Origins 83 race. Halfway between a city and a mountain bike, the gravel or adventure road bike must adapt to all types of terrains, and the new race involves a 298-kilometre course with a total elevation climb of 6,000 metres on 12th and 13th October. This race will not be timed, instead offering riders a chance to spend their time enjoying the stunning landscapes of the region.  www.rocazur.com © Roc d'Azur

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mYs 2018

This year, 120 of the finest superyachts and their awardwinning crews will line the famous quays of Port Hercules from 26th to 29th September in the ultimate showcase of the private and charter yacht industry. Riviera Insider will be there too at Stand QP55 in the Parvis Piscine tent so please feel free to stop by as you tour this extraordinary site. We’ve also got a select number of tickets worth €300 each to give away to new subscribers on a strict first-come-first-served basis. Head to our website (www.riviera-press.fr) for more information on how you can join us as a regular reader. Best of luck and we hope to see you there! 

World premieres, exclusive events and high-profile visitors... and all within yachting’s most glamourous destination. The annual Monaco Yacht Show is one of superlatives.

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The monaco YachT show An interview with its visionary & long-standing managing director, Gaëlle Tallarida in 2018, the principality’s famous yacht show will be younger, fresher and more fun as a new demographic of billionaires explores the world of superyachts. in the run-up to the event, riviera insider caught up with the ever-busy Gaëlle Tallarida to find out more about the changing industry.

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riviera insider: Today’s millionaires and billionaires are younger than ever before. what influence are these young buyers having on the superyacht market? Gaëlle Tallarida: Young buyers want to feel and share their experiences with a yacht. In short, they want to be more connected to the sea. The design of superyachts is changing: wider windows, larger ‘beach club’ areas and lounges on-board to enjoy life with friends and family. The boom of luxury tenders and water toys is also a result of this new way of experiencing yachting, but this trend also comes with a complete respect of the sea and an awareness of environmental issues.

ri: is it true that trends are moving away from buying one’s own superyacht to chartering a luxury yacht whenever needed? what does this mean for the monaco Yacht show? GT: The new clients indeed prefer ‘experiences’ on board yachts and switch from a charter in the Med to a charter in Antarctica, for instance. They want to enjoy a mix of the comfort of a five-star hotel with the adventure of new places. It is a young generation on the move! Charter has always been the first step to ownership and it mainly still is. These younger clients are building their yachting education. I believe that the more they charter, the better they’ll be able to conceive the perfect yacht they’d like to own [in the future]. As for the MYS, we have developed solutions to welcome these new clients and connect them to the most respectful yachting experts – brokers and shipyards – to enhance their superyacht experience, either for a new charter or a first ownership.

ri: anglophone, russian, middle eastern... These have long been the principle yacht-buying nationalities. are you seeing any new additions to the pool? GT: US clients still remain the biggest yacht buyers in terms of numbers, with Russians and Middle Easterners close behind. Buyers from Hong-Kong are active as well and have doubled to represent 4% in the past 12 months (compared to 2% between 2013 and 2017).

ri: ‘green yachting’ is a term we often hear about these days. have there been any notable developments in the industry that are making it more ecologicallyminded? GT: We have been partnered with RINA for over a decade, an Italian company that certifies the ‘green construction’ of a yacht according to a detailed technical sheet. RINA aims at


promoting and developing eco-design solutions in superyacht building; an approach to designing products that are easy to maintain, easy to repair, easy to modernise, and easy to rebuild or recycle. RINA has gained long-running experience in eco-design for the yachting industry, which will definitely pave the way to a new generation of greener and more sustainable yachts. Every year, the greenest superyacht exhibited at the MYS receives the MYS/RINA Superyacht Award at the show.

ri: at its base, the mYs is a trade event for industry professionals, but it also appeals to the general public. GT: Our aim is to do everything possible to offer participants the ideal market place where they can find the exact products and services they are looking for. This is why we shall always pay the closest attention to what participants have to say and respect their trust. The MYS is the most privileged place to visit the most outstanding fleet of recent superyachts available for charter or for sale. High-end visitors come from around the world and keep the dates of the show in their yearly agendas. Over the past five years, we have been developing solutions to welcome the future clientele of luxury yachts. Every year, we raise the show’s standards of quality in terms of visitor facilities and information services to foster the best possible relationships between exhibitors and their clients. A good visit experience at the show can be beneficial for all the sectors of activities on exhibit. Around 30,000 participants are expected this year. We do not aim to break the record of the number of attendees. On the contrary, we aim at better refining the quality of the show to better serve the industry, whether you want to build the yachts of your dreams or you want to be part of the leading superyacht influencers.



charterers, and decision-makers in the yachting and luxury industries attend the MYS to participate in one of the most influential business networks on earth. On the docks, the MYS curates the showcase of a selection of 580 leading companies in the industry, from the most reputable superyacht builders and nautical suppliers, top yacht designers, luxury manufactures and the best brokerage houses to the most sought-after tenders and water toys, prestige cars, and manufacturers of helicopters and private jets.

ri: and what does the event mean for monaco as a nation? GT: We should remember that the MYS is a city within a city for four days. Like the Monaco Grand Prix, it is a huge logistics challenge to set up a worldwide event in the centre of one of the world’s smallest countries... We work in coordination with Monegasque authorities to meticulously organise the setting-up and dismantling of the show on Port Hercules, and minimise any impact on local daily life. The MYS also attracts huge business for local restaurants and bars, hotels (fully-booked), supermarkets, luxury boutiques and all the services of transportation and hospitalities.

ri: finally, what is new at the mYs for 2018? GT: This year’s MYS will present a new floating exhibition that will make visiting the yachts easier for the attendees. The exhibition of Tenders & Toys will be more extensive and will reveal cutting-edge luxury tenders and water toys, with some brand-new vehicles unveiled in a world premiere. Aficionados of hyper cars will also experience something different thanks to the new selection of distinguished cars at the show’s Car Deck exhibition. The area will display an original and top-notch selection of around 10 bespoke luxury automobiles – all produced in very limited numbers – with some available for test-drive for the MYS’s premium clients.  www.monacoyachtshow.com

ri: how does the mYs contribute to monaco’s reputation within the international yachting scene? GT: With the support of the principality and local institutions, the MYS has become one of the most proactive ambassadors in promoting Monaco as a superyachting destination. Every single yearly edition of the MYS is unique. The world’s most respected shipyards display 120 extraordinary one-off superyachts, of which 40 new launches are unveiled annually in a worldwide debut. For four days, yacht owners, future superyacht purchasers or sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018




facTs & figures



49 metres

visitors (in 2017)

world premieres

average length of yachts



€3.3 billion


exhibitors & partners

estimated value of the fleet

YaCHTS TO LOOk OUT FOr   Yacht: Cecilia   Length: 50 metres   Shipyard: Wider Yachts   Year: 2018

CeCiLia Built in the Ancona yard, Cecilia has a top speed of 14 knots and can offer comfortable accommodation for 12 guests within its five cabins. It includes special features designed by Fulvio de Simoni, such as a swimming pool, tender garage and on-board beach club.

1   Yacht: GO   Length: 77 metres   Shipyard: Turquoise   Year: 2018

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GO Go, the largest yacht designed and built by the Turkish shipyard, debuts at the MYS. With advanced features and its impressive turquoise hull, Go can accommodate 18 guests (plus a 20-person crew) in six guests cabins and two VIP suites. It also boasts a 5m pool and 162m² beach club.




  Yacht: RJ   Length: 32 metres   Shipyard: Arcadia   Year: 2018

rJ Also new to the market, this black beauty can reach a speed of 17 knots and host 10 guests in five cabins. The interior design is minimalist and includes features such as fold-out balconies to allow for generous amounts of light and air.

3   Yacht: Irisha   Length: 51 metres   Shipyard: Heesen Yachts   Year: 2018

iriSHa A super fast superyacht with a top speed of 25 knots, this motor yacht features luxury amenities including a cinema, beach club, sauna, on-deck jacuzzi and outdoor bar. Its timeless styling, beautiful furnishings and sumptuous seating can host 10 people in five cabins as well as a nineperson crew.

4   Yacht: Flying Dagger   Length: 49 metres   Shipyard: Rossi Navi   Year: 2018

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FLYiNG DaGGer Five cabins for 10 guests, a cruising speed of 23 knots (top speed of 27 knots) and a seemingly endless expanse of glass for bright, light interior spaces!




an odYsseY BeYond Borders Patrick Pruniaux: CEO of Ulysse Nardin By BERNARD VAN DE KERCKHOVE

Founded over 170 years ago, this venerable watchmaking business is known as the captain’s brand. riviera insider meets the man at the helm of Ulysse Nardin today. atrick Pruniaux is only 45, but his career could already have filled the lives of many people, with three different professions each pursued with the same passion. From France, where he began his studies (an MBA at HEC Paris) to the USA (he is a graduate of Stanford Business School), Africa, the UK, Ireland. and Switzerland where he is based today, he has crossed oceans, seas and even lakes to reach Ulysse Nardin. It is as if the brand was the inevitable port of call for an athlete and sailor who had always been fascinated by watchmaking. But this is not the field in which he began his career. His first job was the result of a chance meeting on a train en route to London just after the end of his military service. At the age of 25, the young graduate joined the spirits group Diageo and set out for Africa on an extraordinary journey that was to last three years. It was a wonderful start for this born globe-trotter; who commands a special gift for management and human relations. Later came a switch to marketing for the same company, this time in Chicago.


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It was only natural that he should be tempted by the siren-song of a head-hunter and decided to join the Wine & Spirits division of LVMH in Miami. He was to be responsible for building the group’s market share in South America. “If working for LVMH was attractive, the brands (including Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Hennessy) were even more so,” he explains. He quickly became the managing director and was very much in his element: complex brand management in a market ripe for conquest; and working with an enormous variety of people and situations. Patrick had plenty on his plate, but it was the sort of situation he revels in. Linking his passion for luxury watchmaking with his interest in sport by becoming International Export Manager for Tag Heuer was an almost obvious next step. He didn’t make the move straight away, however, instead taking time out to obtain a European MBA. It’s always better to be well prepared! He occupied several functions in the Swiss firm, notably International Export Manager in 2005 and VP of Sales between 2010 and 2014, where he was in charge of growth, retail optimisation, client experience and innovation. He was also a member of the LVMH executive committee for watches and jewellery, and was responsible for coordinating the sales strategy between the different brands in the group. But the ‘sirens’ weren’t done with him yet and with an accomplished track record in business, Apple was calling. “A legendary company!” he says. “Its ability to switch from one world to another, its size, its expertise, its challenges (such as the launch of the Apple Watch)... Everything was sensational. I love radical changes so was truly spoilt during those three exceptional years.” He has now been with Ulysse Nardin for a year. Why did he choose this famous firm? “The real potential for development and possibility of working with a new team: I was won over right from the start,” says Patrick. “Ulysse Nardin is a company that breeds enthusiasm. I had hardly started in the new job when I came to the Monaco Yacht Show, with which we are a partner. Our two worlds are in perfect harmony. Ulysse Nardin feeds on its history and is keen to show that it remains the favourite brand for sailors on account of its accuracy, backed up in particular by decades of partnership with the world’s greatest navies, including the US Navy. Yachting is the modern expression of these demanding standards; ones that we share.” Ulysse Nardin is part of the worldwide luxury group Kering, with its roll-call of names that are legends in the fields of fashion, leather goods, jewellery and watchmaking: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Christopher Kane, Tomas Maier, Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo, Qeelin, Girard-Perregaux... Its new CEO has quickly fallen in step with the brand and has placed innovation at the heart of his strategy. “In the coming months, one of our existing collections will be completely updated,” he concludes. Will it be in time for the 2018 Monaco Yacht Show? 





For thE lovE oF machinEs Tom van Oossanen finds his niche By ELSA CARPENTER All photography by TOM VAN OOSSANEN

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hotographer Tom van Oossanen has just landed back in Amsterdam from a photoshoot in Athens when we speak. With several boat launches, a couple of expeditions in the North Sea and the occasional trip to the Mediterranean behind him, the last two and a half months have been a blur of activity for the Dutch creative, who launched his own company in the summer after three years working for the SuperYacht Times. It’s a dream he has been chasing since he was a little boy. “When I was about 10 years old, I took my dad’s camera with me on a school trip,” says 28-year-old Tom. “By 12, I’d saved up enough for my first digital camera and from then on we were inseparable. It came everywhere with me.” Tom grew up in Den Helder, one of the most northern


coastal cities in the Netherlands, and laughs as he explains how he became something of a ‘local celebrity’ in its harbour and airport. “I saw my very first superyacht in 1999 – Amels’ Boadicea, a 76-metre – and was totally fascinated. I would be there every day,” says the entirely self-taught photographer. “Helicopters, planes, superyachts, ships... It became something of an addiction.” He started working for a shipping agency in the local port at the age of 18 and relished the direct access to the sea as well as the shipyards belonging to some of the biggest names in yacht construction, such as Feadship. His passion for superyachts in particular was re-energised in 2011 when, during a holiday to Ibiza with friends, he went on a cruise to the island of Formentera, the smallest of the Balearics. “Motor yacht A, which was just two years old at the time, was right there anchored in the bay. I couldn’t believe it,” he explains. “I photographed it from every angle I could and took what’s probably one of my favourite photos to date!” The following year, Tom was on a quest for another yacht experience: one on the Côte d’Azur. “I was staying in Nice and it just so happened that the Monaco Yacht Show was on at the same time! I didn’t quite have the money to afford a day ticket, but managed to get in touch with Johan Pizzardini [today’s communications and marketing manager] and offer my photographs for free in exchange for a pass,” he explains.


riviera insider would like to thank Tom van Oossanen and rossinavi for the exceptional image of Utopia iv used as our cover shot for the September/October 2018 edition. For more examples of his work, which are available for purchase, please visit his website: tomvanoossanen.com

“I’d say I have a special relationship with the show. It’s still one of my favourite weeks of the year.” But there’s also the whole build-up to the MYS that he loves, which starts back up north with the ‘big girls’ coming out of the shipyards ahead of their world premieres. “All the new boats are at the MYS,” Tom continues. “It’s really interesting when you’ve been following a project for a while – a few years in some cases – and finally get to see it all come together in Port Hercules. In the days before the show, I love to sit on the quays with a sandwich and a drink, and watch them all come cruising into Monaco for the first time.” He’ll be in the principality again this September for a week or so of shooting and socialising, and is looking forward to another series of unveilings, including the presentation of the 90-metre Dar by Oceanco and an 88-metre from China that’s currently en route to Monaco. “Let’s not forget that, as well as the yachts, the MYS brings together the whole industry,” says Tom, whose work has appeared in around 150 maritime publications to date. “It’s important for me to be there to network and get my name out. I’m lucky to be based in Holland, where some of today’s finest yachts are being built. I meet a lot of the important people – and potential clients – at that end of the scale. Events like the MYS, however, give me access to the owners.” Connections such as these have kept Tom busy in



recent weeks; that and a growing appreciation for his unique style of photography. “Anyone can take a photo of a blue sea against a blue sky with a white boat in the middle,” he says simply, “all you need in an iPhone.” Flick through Tom’s Instagram (@tomvanoossanen) or his online portfolio and you’ll quickly notice his use of colour – or absence of it. He seems to relish in dark and stormy skies rather than the clear and pristine atmospheres preferred by most of his contemporaries. In the place of luxury insignias and champagne flutes, Tom’s work features ducks, stunning natural backdrops, urban skylines and abstract elements. “There’s huge competition in yacht photography, particularly in the Mediterranean where there are some very high-quality photographers,” he explains. “You have to find a way of keeping it creative. I don’t personally see the challenge of just saying ‘Look how fun this superyachting thing can be!’ with jetskis whizzing around the boat. You have to pick your niche.” 20 years of observing and adoring – in equal measure – the engineering and art of construction required to produce a luxury yacht has given Tom’s work an undoubtable edge. “I love the shapes, the curves... I’ve followed a couple of boats throughout the build process and I’m always astounded to think that one day, this steel plate is going to be exploring the Arctic or chartering in the Mediterranean,” he says. “I think it’s my passion for machines in all forms that pushes me to take the photograph that no one else does.” 

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Yacht club dE monaco

an institution in the principality since its founding in 1953, the YCM unites over 2,000 prestigious members of 66 nationalities in their love of sailing and the oceans. By CLAIRE LATHBURY


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The solar & energY BoaT challenge


ore than a century after the first international powerboat meetings were launched in 1904, the Yacht Club de Monaco has revived a tradition of innovation with the Solar & Energy Boat Challenge, which was held in July in collaboration with the Hydros Foundation, International Powerboating Federation (UIM) and Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation. The event called on the minds and imaginations of young engineers, who worked handin-hand with experienced manufacturers to develop alternative propulsion systems. The requirement was to use only clean energy sources in powering these potential vessels of tomorrow. The concept reflects the real technological challenge of meeting the energy needs of the leisure boat and shipping industries as well as environmental prerogatives. The 5th edition of the Solar & Energy Boat Challenge attracted 200 contestants from 12 countries and across 30 teams and three categories: Solar Class, Offshore Class and Energy Class (launched in 2018). But it is not only participant numbers that are increasing

with the years, but also the scientific progress being made with these new technologies. As well as a range of contests, which saw the Clafis Victron Energy Solar Boat Team led by Gerhard van der Schaar win the event again, the YCM wanted to encourage Open Source, a sharing of knowledge and projects via Tech Talks. These daily conference-format meetings for contestants proved very popular with the students, who were eager to share and pass on useful information so vital for the industry’s development. With this in mind, the YCM has created a group discussion forum on the Solar & Energy Boat Challenge Facebook page, which is accessible to all and allows everyone to monitor updates remotely. Even now, some teams are in a position to offer the market ready-to-use compact batteries with a 0.12kW per kilo capacity, as well as Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) charge controllers that improve voltaic panel performance to more than 95% by optimising the battery’s charge and prolonging its life. Regarding propulsion, there have been interesting improvements in powertrain efficiency, with an L-type propulsion system instead of the standard Z-type that can yield outputs of 80% compared to the industry average of 50%. The ultra-compact counter-rotating propellers produce less noise and vibration as well as offering better controllability and performance. In terms of the power-to-weight ratio of the engine, electric engines available today deliver 13kW for 32kg, while some of the prototypes unveiled at the Solar & Energy Boat Challenge are achieving 30kW for 13kg. The next edition, where the focus will be on energy storage, is already scheduled for 2nd to 6th July 2019. Some teams that will line up for the Energy Class events are planning to develop a complete fuel cell that will very quickly become the future generator on most yachts. Say goodbye not only to vibration and noise, but also exhaust gases as only oxygen and water will be in the emissions, meaning zero pollution. Now that is a big step forward to the future! www.ycm.org


thE maîtrE FlEuristE By ELSA CARPENTER

Samiha Sellier is an impressive woman. Not only has she built up a reputation as one of Monaco’s most notable florists as well as a global portfolio of clients that regularly take her around the world, but she has also done it largely on her own. it certainly has not been an easy ride to get here and it would have required a strong character and plenty of selfbelief: Samiha has both.


tanding in her shop, which is mere metres from the border between Beausoleil and Monaco, Samiha Sellier is dressed in black. It is a typical artist’s attire and also one suitable against the vibrancy of her boutique, which is today filled with a variety of fresh-cut roses. Outside on the street, her terrace space is a forest of rich greenery and decorative items. Samiha started her career in floristry a long way from the principality. In her late teens, she had followed her dreams to qualify as a dressmaker, but, at 18 in Paris, she struggled to find a job where she could exercise her creativity and have her talents recognised. “I was too young to be taken seriously,” she says. “I kept being offered roles as a shop assistant, which really did not reflect my abilities. It was a frustrating and difficult time.” Originally from Metz, Samiha eventually headed to Rodez in southern France, where she met and married her ex-husband. She found employment in a small florist’s shop, working for a lady who would become her mentor, and ultimately stayed there for 13 years. Flowers rather than fashion suited Samiha well. She returned to her studies to become a Maître Fleuriste (translation: master florist) and even took part in a floristry world championship event, but her independent streak was also flourishing. After the births of her



children, Samiha decided to go it alone and created her first boutique. “2000 was an excellent year for me,” she laughs. “I had barely opened the doors to my shop when Zinedine Zidane popped in to buy some flowers for his wife. All of a sudden, the name of my little boutique in Rodez was in the newspapers. It could not have come at a better time for me.” After the break-down of her marriage, Samiha was headhunted by a Monaco-based floristry company in 2014. She bravely sold up and moved to the principality. Although that business relationship was not to last, Samiha – who speaks English, Arabic and a little German as well as her native French – was inspired by the international community of Monaco and endeavoured to stay in the region. She says she has much to thank Gérard Spinelli, the mayor of Beausoleil, for: “He gave me a chance by letting me open a market stall on a Sunday morning – I was the only florist allowed to do so. It was slow and hard at first, but that one slot helped me to develop my clientele.” Just a few years later and she operates a shop on Boulevard de la République, and has plans to open another just a couple of doors up, which will specialise in garden design. Her clientele is as global as she could have hoped for and is a mix of private (people looking to decorate their homes, apartments and yachts) and corporate (events take up around 30% of her time). She is also kept very busy with the international side of her business, which frequently requires long-distance travel to clients around the world. She describes her style, perhaps surprisingly for a proud Frenchwoman, as heavily influenced by Scandinavia and Great Britain. “Of all my clients, I would say that the Brits know their flowers the best,” she says. “There is a genuine appreciation for flowers in the UK and a strong industry there. This does sometimes mean that British clients expect their flowers to cost a certain amount, which is not always possible here in the south of France, but they are loyal and engaged with the art.” Her approach is almost holistic and she says that she makes every attempt to stay faithful to the seasons when it comes to choosing flowers for her displays: “I’d never use a peony in winter!” The next few weeks will be a busy time for Samiha and her small team as they work on a high-profile event linked to the Monaco Yacht Show. Flowers are an important piece of the puzzle for the interior crew on the 120 superyachts expected in Port Hercules at the end of September. Samiha’s recommendations for floristry at sea? “Although they can be quite delicate, orchids are always very popular on the boats,” she says. “Exotic flowers deal particularly well with the special humidity conditions of a yacht as well as hydrangeas and lilies!” 2 Boulevard de la République, Beausoleil Tel. 04 97 07 31 70

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vault Yacht The online inventory and storage system for yachts

in the same way that luxury villas can be rented, many of today’s yacht owners are choosing to charter out their yachts. With high maintenance bills, it often makes good financial sense, but is it practical when there are priceless personal items and expensive collections of art and wine on board?

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ne week the yacht is your private enclave, the next it is hosting a lively entourage. Somewhere in between, the crew will have tidied away the family crystal and packed up your personal items to replace them with guest-friendly décor and accessories. Anyone who has spent time on a yacht – little or large – will know that space can be scarce, so where do all these items go? More often than not, they end up being stored in random cupboards or hastily bundled off the boat in boxes. It is hardly the right way to treat such precious items. Waldemar Zaikin is the managing director of a company called Vault Yacht that, since last summer, has been providing owners looking to charter their yachts with a unique service. “Before a yacht is chartered, we collect and store in ideal conditions any private belongings that the owner would like to keep safe,” explains Mr. Zaikin. “It could be a wardrobe or interior decorative item, for example. We photograph the exact location of each and every piece so that when the charter is concluded, we can board the yacht again and restore them to their original place. For the owner, it is as if they have never even left.” During the interim, the company updates its digital catalogue. All the data (photographs, descriptions and condition reports) is uploaded to the yacht’s online inventory, which can be accessed by the owner themselves and staff at any time. It is a comprehensive inventory and storage system that allows not only the remote management of the collec-

tion, but also enables the request of delivery of any item in the online inventory to any location. “An owner might be holidaying in Sardinia and require certain pieces of clothing,” says Mr. Zaikin. “They can search the online catalogue then ask for them to be sent out. We do our upmost to offer a 24-hour turnaround.” For clients in the south of France and Monaco, the closest facility is in Nice, although the client need never visit the site. Here, Vault Yacht runs an extraordinary operation, with climate-controlled wardrobes (the company has its origins in high-value couture and apparel) and specialist storage for wine and art work. Even the transportation methods are tailored to the specific needs of an item. Needless to say, Vault Yacht’s methods go well beyond good quality bubblewrap! “We officially started the Vault Yacht concept at the start of the 2017 season, but have been offering a similar service with Vault Couture since 2012,” says founder Mounissa Chodieva. “We have bases in London, Paris and Hong-Kong as well as the French Riviera, and hope to launch at other sites in the near future. The client receives an equally premium standard of service wherever they are in the world. There is really no other company out there that can provide this level of expertise and understanding when it comes to high-end inventory and storage solutions.” For prices and further information, please contact the team via the central website: www.vaultyacht.com





ith the change in season comes some of the world’s most important yacht shows, from Cannes’ Yachting Festival to the Monaco Yacht Show – both in September – and the Nautic Paris Boat Show (8th to 16th December). Over the years, these events have recorded noteworthy growth in attendees and participants, across all generations. In a reflection of this diversity, it is easy to see why the laws that regulate industry cover so many different areas: registration, insurance, employment of captains and crew, to name but a few. The expansion of the industry has led to the establishment of a great number of specific regulations. Applicable laws can be highly sensitive so it is important to be well-informed: if you fall head-over-heels for an amazing yacht, you will need to be sure about the sale conditions in order to avoid any unwelcome surprises. Under French law, a yacht is considered to be movable property even if it is held by a company. However, a vessel is also subject to a specific rulebook, such as having a registered nationality or a license plate, and goes through the registration process. Here are two interesting examples:


The sale Process Subject to your legal status, you will be more or less protected by French law. The introductory article of the French Consumer Code mentions three different categories: consumers, non-professionals and professionals. A consumer is defined as a natural person who acts for purposes that are not part of his commercial, industrial, artisanal, liberal or agricultural activity otherwise he would be considered as a professional (including when acting in the name of or on behalf of another professional). As a result, prior to the conclusion of the contract – and if you are considered a consumer – the seller will have to state all the essential characteristics of the goods or service (price, technical description, conditions of use, for example). In the case of a dispute, it is up to the seller to prove that he has performed his duties (under Article L111-1 of the Consumer Code). There are many warranties for the consumer, such as the legal warranty of conformity or against hidden defects and liability of the seller. From the professional seller side, it is not a totally negative scenario as the seller holds a large legal arsenal to oppose the request for warranty from the buyer. This includes challenging the various conditions that must be met to enforce the guarantee, invoking the knowledge that the purchaser should have had of the defect (as a specialist in this domain), and last but not least, opposing a possible fault of the purchaser will limit the scope of the financial sanctions to which they might be exposed. employment law & Yacht crew While the flag state’s law regulates employment on board, local port state laws can also have a bearing, especially when an aggrieved crewmember seeks redress. Also, after the new legal provisions enacted in 2017, the French authorities have just provided official clarification regarding social security payments for yacht crew by determining how French residency is characterised (more than 6 months in total during a 12 month period) and also specifies that time spent in the shipyard does not count towards the days you have spent in France and/or French waters. In all cases, it is important to protect your interests by obtaining legal advice from a professional who can provide impartial guidance on all aspects of large yacht ownership and operation.   zoubaïda Bouzou 12 Avenue Malausséna 06000 Nice Tel.: +33(0)9 83 57 28 00 isegoria.conseils@gmail.com sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018





aquila Yachting


he story of Aquila Yachting starts in the childhood of the founder Daniel Bussani. His father worked as a captain and led a life at sea. Following in his footsteps into the maritime world,

Bussani created Aquila Yachting in 1988. Since the 2000s, the focus of the entrepreneur has been on the sale, management and rental of luxury yachts: a sector the young man noticed was a booming industry. Aquila Yachting (based in Port Camille Rayon, Golfe Juan) enjoys an excellent reputation in the industry and is a member of MYBA, the Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association, which promotes high professional and ethical standards. From the sale and rental of yachts with their Aquila Charter branch to the management of yachts with Aquila Management, the company provides a very wide range of services. Clients can, for instance, call on Aquila’s expertise in legal advice to remain in compliance with the ever-changing maritime legislation, get help in finding the perfect berth or even use the company’s recruitment sector to hire professional and reliable crew.  www.aquilayachting.com

uPdaTe Your crew & inTerior look Sea Design: the ultimate Antibes address for apparel & yacht décor or almost 30 years, yacht wear company Sea Design has been providing luxury yachts, private villas, beaches, hotels and even companies with practical yet stylish uniforms. Based in Antibes and barely a minute’s walk from the quays of Port Vauban, Sea Design’s showroom offers a range of products to buy on-site as well as the opportunity to meet with dedicated sales representatives for the yachting sector.


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Frédéric Minerva Tel. +33 (0)6 60 96 53 83 Port Camille rayon, 06220 Golfe-Juan frederic.minerva@aquilayachting.com

Always keeping in mind their clients’ needs, Sea Design recently added a brand new feature to their website, which should ease the ordering process for an industry that calls for a bespoke and made-to-measure approach. The feature allows clients to upload their design logos and get them printed directly on personalised garments. In addition to their own range of clothing that is available for order, the Antibes-based company also offers its clients the chance to obtain unique, custom-made productions. And if you’re looking to complete your order with some of the finest bedlinens or other accessories for a luxury interior, Sea Design’s sister company Cabin Shop works with countless yachts, prestigious villas and private jets. In close partnership with owners, crew and interior designers around the globe, the Cabin Shop offers an extensive range of choice when it comes to towelling, table linens and tableware. Each item can be personalised.  www.sea-design.com & www.cabinshop.eu




ri: To the rest of the world, monaco is many different things: a glamourous destination for the super rich, one of the last european nations with an authentic sovereign, a very safe and security-focused country... what is the image of monaco you would like to communicate to the world? GR: One of a cosmopolitan, innovative and open country! And that Monaco is a nation whose history is long, and whose population is welcoming and united around the benevolence of a Prince who works every day to make the world a better place. Ever since I moved back to the principality 20 years ago, I have felt a sense of privilege that brings with it responsibility. [I am privileged] to live in a socially and economically advanced country where a precious democratic dialogue exists alongside stable institutions. As such, I feel a responsibility to contribute towards its prosperity and heritage by sharing its values and successes with the world.

monaco aBroad Guillaume rose is at the head of a task force to capitalise and build on Monaco’s international image.


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Changing perceptions & challenging preconceptions riviera insider: monsieur rose, after working as the director of Tourism, you were recently given the task of coordinating efforts to better promote monaco abroad. what can you tell us about your strategy for the project? Guillaume Rose: I will be reuniting all stakeholders responsible for promoting and managing Monaco’s image overseas. I am also working on a government study that will figure out the needs of the principality as well its opportunities and its weaknesses. I am meeting all those involved in ‘exporting Monaco’ – whether for diplomatic, economic, touristic, cultural or scientific reasons – and will then provide my own recommendations on how we can all best work together. Establishing a common goal and good working relationships between these actors is essential to our efforts. My role will be to ensure that, upstream, the decisions made at executive level are applied and that there is synergy in respective missions. Expectations are high and some excellent work has already been done on the subject by the Monaco Economic Board.

ri: from promoting marine conservation to tackling issues such as corruption and tax evasion, monaco has made major efforts in recent years to improve its standing in the world. how will you continue to fight negative stereotypes? GR: The quality and the forward-thinking approach of Monaco’s cultural entities; its touristic savoir-faire; its economic success; the fight for environmental protection and conservation; the peaceful application of the high-level security… All of these are great assets that only a few other countries are able to do as well as the principality. In the face of negative stereotypes, we can often only talk of our strengths. Our open and direct communication channels highlight these. My many years of experience in the tourism industry have taught me that once the first biases and prejudices are gone, the vast majority of decision-makers – the people who we are looking to attract – quickly come to appreciate Monaco. 

an online Presence The Monegasque government recently launched a social media drive to bolster the principality’s presence online. Residents and visitors are being encouraged to rally around three key hashtags on platforms such as Instagram, Twitter and Facebook: #monacomoments To be used when posting about daily life in the principality #visitmonaco For all things tourism such as lifestyle shots, visits to cultural and historical sites, and hotel stays #mcgreenglam Who says luxury can’t be ecological?!


a part of something bigger For such a small nation – Monaco covers just over 2km² the principality maintains a considerable presence on the world stage. We take a look at some of the projects and events it has been a part of in 2018. new ambassadors Since the start of the year, numerous new ambassadors have presented their Letters of Credence to Prince Albert II. These include: Walter Grahammer of the Republic of Austria, Brendan Berne of Australia, Vinay Mohan Kwatra of the Republic of India, Martine Schommer of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, Rahman Sahib oglu Mustafayev of Azerbaijan, Datin Paduka Malai Hajah Halimah Malai Haji Yussof of Brunei, Rodolphe Adada of the Republic of Congo, Alexey Meshkov of the Russian Federation, Jamie McCourt of the United States of America, Alain Francis Gustave Ilboudo of Burkina Faso, Isabelle Hudon of Canada, Elio Eduardo Rodriguez Perdomo of Cuba, Emil Druc of Moldova, Modupe E. Irele of Nigeria, Filip Vucak of Croatia, Thiep Nguyen of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, Buddhi K. Athauda of Sri Lanka, Louis Sylvestre Radegonde of the Seychelles, Favien Enongoue of the Gabonese Republic, Jean Galiev of Kazakhstan, and Jorge Ryder Torres-Pereira of Portugal. official visit to canana Prince Albert II met Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau for the first time at the Parliament Buildings in Ottawa in early May. The two

leaders, who share an interest in environmental issues, discussed the commitments made as part of the Paris Agreement, the threats associated with climate change, and ocean conservation. united nations general assembly In early June, Cédric Braquetti from the Permanent Mission of Monaco to the United Nations was unanimously elected as the vice president of the UN’s Economic and Financial Committee. His role will involve issues related to sustainable development and globalisation as well as the world economy. small countries of europe A delegation led by Director General of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Cooperation Isabelle Rosabrunetto and Alexandre Bordero, the director of Health Affairs, took part in the World Health Organisation’s fifth High-Level Meeting of Small Countries of Europe in Iceland at the end of June. The theme of the event was ‘working together for better health and well-being for all’, and the Monaco delegation highlighted the principality’s ongoing efforts to reduce water consumption and improve communication campaigns linked to public health. The

on the map Historical sites linked to the famous family he story goes that, on the night of 8th January 1297, François Grimaldi stealthily took control of the fortress on the Rock of Monaco. A rustle of the fake Franciscan monk’s cloak and the principality was his! In the seven centuries that followed, the Grimal-


dis grew into a dynasty with links across the south of France, north of Italy and beyond. There are even rumours of one musically-talented Grimaldi making his way to medieval China. Through regal and aristocratic titles, marriages and diplomatic ties, the family name is now linked to almost 100 sites, from private properties and fortifications to monuments, villages and



event closed with the adoption of a political declaration entitled Guaranteeing Access to Reliable and Climate-Change Resilient Water Sources and Sanitation. Touring Japan In June, a delegation from the Tourist and Convention Authority, together with representatives from the Fairmont Monte-Carlo and Société des Bains de Mer, visited Osaka and Tokyo for a promotional tour. The theme was ‘Green Is the New Glam’, providing an opportunity to highlight the public and private environmental initiatives in the principality, and to present Monaco as an innovative destination while emphasising its expertise in fine dining and luxury accommodation. increased cooperation with euroPol Monaco extended its relationship with the European Union Agency for Law Enforcement Cooperation over the summer with the signing of an agreement between Interior Minister Patrice Cellario and EUROPOL Executive Director Catherine de Bolle at The Hague. The document focused on issues such as terrorism, cybercrime, organised crime, drug trafficking, human trafficking and money laundering. egypt at the grimaldi forum As the Grimaldi Forum inaugurated its major summer exhibition – Gold of the Pharaohs – in July, the principality welcomed an official Egyptian delegation. Key figures present included: Minister of Antiquities Khaled Elanany, Minister of Tourism Rania Al-Mashat and Ambassador to Monaco Ehab Badawy. The Princes of monaco head to china On the back of the Grimaldi Forum’s hugely successful summer exhibition last year (Beijing: the Forbidden City), the cultural centre is heading to the Chinese capital this autumn with The Princes & Princesses of Monaco. The exported exhibition will retrace 700 years of the Grimaldi Dynasty. 

towns. The Sites Historiques Grimaldi de Monaco association was formed in 2015. Via its website, the group has created an interactive map of the sites in France and Italy that have been officially and unofficially connected to the family. Locally these include the towns of Peille, Tourette-duChâteau, Pierlas and Tournefort in addition to the more obvious Monaco neighbours of Cap d’Ail, La Turbie, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and Menton. Their Grimaldi heritage comes in many forms, from cathedrals and monasteries to former ‘holiday’ homes. In Antibes, for example, the Musée Picasso (or Château Grimaldi) has a branch of the family to thank for its 13th century roots. www.sitesgrimaldimonaco.fr sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018




in an interview with riviera insider editor-inchief elsa Carpenter, the president of the Monaco ambassadors Club, alexander Moghadam, shares his love of the principality.

ven for Monaco, Alexander Moghadam’s story is a little unusual. In the mid-1970s, the Iranian businessman was holidaying in the principality with his family when he met the royal couple of the day, Prince Rainier and Princess Grace. After sharing with them his passion for his work – Moghadam was an importer of exquisite Iranian and Persian carpets alongside a managerial role at Lufthansa – Princess Grace invited the salesman and his family to move to Monaco and open a private gallery. He was, of course, honoured to accept. Moghadam has maintained close relations with the Princely family over the last four decades, but it was in 2008 during a meeting with Prince Albert II that talk turned to the Monaco Ambassadors Club. It was founded in 1973 at the behest of Princess Grace and by senior Lufthansa employee, Dieter Friedrich, as a place that could unite Monaco’s highflying international community, which even then included an impressive array of businesspeople, public figures, celebrities and sportspeople, diplomats and politicians. The club sadly lost its momentum in the years following the former actress’ untimely death in 1982 so Moghadam, who had been a member of the entity almost since the start, was extremely touched when the prince asked him to revive the association. “Prince Albert described the Monaco Ambassadors Club as a souvenir of his mother,” recounts Moghadam. “At that point, there were just three members left – including me – and even though I was very

an unofficial amBassador


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busy with work, I was honoured to have been called upon.” Today the club has over 300 hand-selected members. Applicants must go through a rigorous selection process prior to admission, but it is their respect for the principality and their ability to uphold its values that is the most stringent criteria. “We do not judge anyone on their background, nationality or religion,” explains Moghadam, who is also an Honorary Consul for Nepal. “We are open to everyone, although they have to provide a reference! I am proud and happy to have brought together such a diverse network of people who come from all walks of life. They are each representatives for Monaco.” The club hosts around six social events a year, including three keystone dates: the White Party during the summer, the Goodwill Ambassador for Monaco award that is presented by Prince Albert, and the Christmas Gala. On 27th November, the Monaco Ambassadors Club will travel to Dubai with the Fondation Prince Albert II for a benefit event (tickets including travel and accommodation cost €2,200 and are available for non-members) while the festive season will be celebrated on 11th December in the principality. “We usually hold our Christmas Gala on 10th

December to coincide with the birthdays of Prince Jacques and Princess Gabriella,” smiles the 82-year-old, “but Princess Charlene asked we wait a day so that she can attend. They like to spend the twins’ day together as a family.” At the end of 2018 and following a 10-year tenure, Moghadam will be handing over the club presidency to Christian Moore, the son of actor Sir Roger Moore, a past titleholder of Goodwill Ambassador alongside fellow Brit David Coulthard. He hopes it will encourage a new generation of people passionate about the values of the principality to get involved and continue its prestige (the average age of




“more than just an association” Celebrating eight years of the Club des Résidents Etrangers de Monaco


its current members is between 55 and 60). “I am proud that, after 45 years, the club is still loyal to the objectives set down by Princess Grace: to gather together people wishing to promote the values of Monaco and thus actively participate in extending its influence,” he says. “Personally, I have been able to inject a little influence of my own through my background in commerce. Today’s members are all good people who do good work both here in the principality and beyond its borders.” Moghadam describes the effort he has put into the club over the last decade as his way of saying thank you to a place that welcomed his family ‘so warmly and graciously’. When asked what the principality means to him, Moghadam’s eyes sparkle. “I have travelled a lot in my 82 years so believe me when I say that there is nowhere – nowhere on earth – that can compare when it comes to quality of life, security, culture, climate, sport, friendship... Whatever it is you are searching for, Monaco is the best place for it,” says the unofficial ambassador. “When you move here, you join a great big family. It is a place that is very much alive.” He saves equal praise for its ruler. “Prince Albert is an exceptional human being,” Moghadam says freely. “I admire him enormously for his approach to equality and his helpfulness towards everyone. The people who live in Monaco are very privileged to have a leader such as he, and I count myself among that number.” 

a place to get together, meet new people, share new experiences and discover the many and varied aspects of the principality.




ight years ago in 2010, the Club des Résidents Etrangers de Monaco was founded by Prince Albert II and Louisette Azzoaglio Levy-Soussan. Now it unites over 400 members of nearly 35 nationalities. The club, which describes itself as ‘more than just an association’, offers its members a range of benefits, from social dates to workshops and conferences, and has hosted well over 1,000 events since its inception. The annual highlight is the Anniversary Cocktail, which was held that the Odyssey of the Hôtel Metropole in late June. The Prince was present for the birthday event along with Chris Dhondt, who recently took over the reins as the club’s director with a new vision for the CREM. The late Joël Robuchon was also on hand to provide delicious appetisers and guests enjoyed champagne from Taittinger as well as a wonderful synchronised swimming performance by the glamourous SwimLadies.


The CREM will launch its autumn programme of events on 3rd September from its headquarters at: Le Mirabeau, 1 Avenue Princesse Grâce. www.club-residents-etrangersmonaco.com

DID YOU KNOW? - Monaco was officially recognised by the United Nations Organization in 1993 - The Ministry of Foreign affairs was founded by Prince rainier iii in 2005 - There are 114 foreign embassies in the principality - There are 16 Monegasque ambassadors around the world - 130 Monegasque consulates exist across the globe - People of 139 different nationalities have made Monaco their home - Of the nearly 10,000 Monegasque citizens, 95% live in the principality and strategy.

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monaco-usa: a hisTorical medical ParTnershiP In conversation with the head of cardiology at the Princess Grace hospital, Professor Nadir Saoudi By PETRA HALL The Grace-Penn Medicine initiative promotes exchange between the prestigious University of Pennsylvania and the principality’s Centre Hospitalier Princesse Grace. One particularly noteworthy aspect of the partnership: patients with serious conditions in Monaco can get a second opinion in america. any will know that the Princess Grazia Patrizia (to use her official title), who died in 1982, came from the US state of Pennsylvania. However, it is less well-known that since 2016, there has been an exceptional collaboration between the University of Pennsylvania – UPenn, whose medical school is among the best in the world – and the Monegasque hospital named for the beloved Mother of State. The Penn Medicine medical centre has existed for 250 years, treats almost two and a half million patients annually and employs around 2,250 physicians. The Princess Grace Hospital, which was founded in 1902 under the preliminary name of Hôpital Prince Albert, welcomes 200,000 patients a year. Some 260 doctors work here. 65-year-old Professor Nadir Saoudi is a specia-


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list in cardiac dysrhythmia (or conditions of irregular heartbeat). He was appointed Head Physician of the Cardiology Department at Monaco’s hospital in 2001 on the request of Prince Rainier III, who wanted to raise standards at the hospital. In actual fact, Saoudi had always dreamed of emigrating to the US. “I love America and studied there too. The universities are much better than ours,” says the internationally-renowned luminary, but he ultimately decided on the principality. “At that time, there was no department for heart arrhythmia in the whole southeast of France.” As one of the best in his field, he was officially recognised by the French Académie Nationale de Médecine in 2009 and has published numerous scientific papers. Professor Saoudi was the first cardiologist in France to use an intracardiac catheter to probe previously unreachable areas of the heart. Every year since March

2011, he has organised the Monaco USA Arrhythmia Course. More than 150 doctors from all over the world attended in 2018 alone. In 2016, Saoudi was personally appointed by Prince Albert II as President of the Grace-Penn Medicine initiative. “One of the main goals is the training of our doctors,” says the father of four with enthusiasm. “Monaco has a very good hospital with excellent professionals and sophisticated tools. However, our doctors are able to improve their capabilities in Pennsylvania. Their trips to the States are sponsored by Grace-Penn Medicine and its private donors, enabling my colleagues to further their specialist areas of cardiology, psychiatry, radiotherapy and more. Thanks to our initiative, patients with serious health problems can also have their medical records studied by specialists at the University of Pennsylvania and, in return for payment, get a second opinion.” Not only is Professor Saoudi a cardiology expert, he is also a gifted musician who likes to move and laugh. To this end, he regularly hosts the Cabaret Medical in English with a group of fellow doctors. This year, it is taking place on 2nd December at the Salle des Etoiles in Monaco. It is not all singing and dancing though, as he never loses sight of his life’s work: to help people. The proceeds from each cabaret event are given to one of any number of charities. In 2018, he supports Aide & Présence. 








With over 300 kilometres of scintillating coastline and rich green hills and pristine valleys that stretch north beneath a clear blue sky, the region of Liguria is one of Italy’s most beautiful. For those on the Côte d’Azur, it is also our neighbour: a place historically, culturally and geographically tied to the south of France. Yet it retains a certain mystique and uniqueness, from its gastronomy to its landscapes. Many will recognise the names of its glamourous resorts – Portofino and Cinque Terre – as well as its regional capital of Genoa and the border town of Ventimiglia, but what do you know of its little-visited hinterland or vines and olive groves that rival those of France? Join us as we explore Liguria.

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a rosY fuTure Liguria’s head of tourism, Giovanni Berrino, shares his hopes for the region By PETRA HALL



and have been working to improve its year-round tourism appeal. The beauty of the landscape, the unique gastronomy and the extensive outdoor pursuits are attracting more and more visitors. We have rediscovered largely unknown areas and promoted its historically authentic villages, for example. This goes hand-in-hand with an increase in the quality of infrastructure, in which over 11 million euros have been invested.

what kind of support does the local government provide for tourism incentives? In addition to advertising campaigns, we have set aside €500,000 to support innovative small and medium-sized companies in the tourism industry. Our initiative to create new jobs has also been very successful: in just a few weeks, 550 contracts were signed thanks to €1,500,000 in funding. We want to stabilise the labour market and slowly move away from seasonal dependency. Employees with employment contracts of at least eight months (in the fields of accommodation and beach hospitality) will benefit from the aid in this area. 1

what efforts are you making to attract tourists?



In the search of new target groups, we are testing out a number of ideas outside of the main tourism season. One is the Milano-Sanremo del Gusto, a food and wine route that follows the trail of the famous cycle race through Lombardy, Piedmont and Liguria. Others include Be Active for sports-mad visitors and a culinary initiative called C'è pesto per te (editor’s note: which is a play on a TV programme of a similar name). The countryside and its potential are very much in vogue.


riviera insider: signor Berrino, how has liguria fared with regards to tourism in 2018?

have you earmarked any funds for its tourism development?

Giovanni Berrino: So far the figures are very encouraging! In the first five months of this year, hotels and other visitor accommodation counted 4,285,000 guests including 1,750,000 from overseas. That works out as 153,000 more foreigners visiting Liguria during this period than in 2017. While many international holiday destinations have suffered severe tourism collapse in recent years, we are proud to say that our region has done well. Cinque Terre alone registers 2.5 million tourists from all over the world every year, and the flow [of visitors] has increased significantly outside of the high or peak season. Liguria is becoming more and more of a destination for culture and nature lovers.

Our hinterland has enormous potential and we plan to greatly enhance it together with the farms in the area. We have developed various initiatives for the Tourism Plan 2020 that include a focus on medieval villages, wine and gastronomy, cultural and religious tours, hiking trails and outdoor activities. This summer, we launched the #orgoglioliguria (translation: #PrideofLiguria) initiative for lovers of lesser known, authentic destinations together with the communities. For each location, three visitor routes are identified in colour and painted on the floor or marked by stickers: art in red, curious in blue, and children in yellow. These are not the usual paths or trails found in guidebooks; the ideas have come directly from individual municipalities so offer ‘insider knowledge’. For the first time, it is the Ligurians themselves who tell their story.

what are the region’s particular strengths?

what is the future of tourism in liguria?

In summer, the coast, with its excellent water quality, is and remains the driving force of our tourism. Over the last few years, however, we have put a strong emphasis on the development of the hinterland or backcountry,

Rosy, if we carry on as we have! Above all, the challenge is to make tourism a stronger source of momentum for the job market. Liguria is an exceptional area that deserves our full attention.  sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018




PorTo miraBello Italy’s newest & largest yacht harbour By NICOLE RUSKELL

 Photo 1


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a marvel of ingenuity and architectural prowess, Porto Mirabello was created from nothing. a decade ago, the area was only a protected inlet of sea, but within two years, an artificial peninsula was constructed and a massive complex of 40,000 square metres now connects La Spezia to its very own superyacht harbour. riviera insider sits down with its founder and CeO, alessandro Menozzi, to learn more about this impressive project. 1






he €143 million Porto Mirabello project was completed in a record-breaking two years mainly due to the fact it was privately funded. Alessandro Menozzi, a businessman from Modena with zero prior knowledge of boating, took on the enormous project ‘after a joke’ about the challenges of creating a five-star harbour out of nothing. He happened upon the project – it had been passed around for nearly four decades, always deemed impossible and left in a thick folder – by chance, but the idea of this immense challenge piqued his interest and he didn’t stop until it was his.


>Total area: 40,000m2 >1,107 berths >100 superyacht berths >2 high-flow filling stations >1 heliport >1,300 parking spaces >287 garages >1 captain & crew gym >30+ shops, restaurants & cafés >24h security >round-the-clock onsite service staff >On-site concierge

humble beginnings A self-made man, Menozzi proudly states, “I didn’t come from a wealthy family. I’ve worked for everything I have.” He wears a bright blue designer suit for our meeting, which takes place in his large office, offering a panoramic view of the 40,000m2 port below his window. He insists he isn’t a rich man. Instead, he takes tremendous pride in his behemoth accomplishment and chuckles when he thinks back on how it all began. “They must have thought I was an idiot; someone without any knowledge of boats and from a completely different business sector,” he quips, recalling the absurd set of circumstances that led to the building we are sitting in. He chocks it up to destiny that he was not only granted the project, but also a generous line of support from his bank. The rest he credits to his hometown of Modena, where he delights in recounting some of Italy’s top products and brands. “Modena has nothing but fields and fog, and yet we have such a strong work ethic that we have produced many of Italy’s top products, from food to fashion, to cars to chefs.” Obviously, being the home of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati and Ducati should be enough for the record books, but foodies will surely note Modena for the world’s source of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and balsamic vinegar. Menozzi’s mention of the finest



gastronomy is no exaggeration either. Osteria Francescana, located on a small and quiet street in Modena, was recently voted 2018’s Best Restaurant in the World. Un-phased by the naysayers and warnings of financial ruin, Menozzi pushed forward with marine reclamation work in 2007 and the construction of jetties in 2008. By 2009, the first berths were available. Financing as the project progressed, he sold berths to some top yacht owners and their vessels, including the well-known dark-blue Armani yacht, now a long-term fixture at Porto Mirabello.

a floating city Connecting La Spezia to Porto Mirabello is a new modern footbridge that allows residents and tourists alike to enjoy the many amenities of the new port. Over 30 shops are housed in the modern structure and among their number are several restaurants, cafés, wine bars and even a proper English pub. La Pia, a La Spezia institution for over 100 years, also opened a shop at the port and serves farinata, a local Ligurian speciality (Italy’s version of the Niçois socca). The high-end restaurant of Akua features a 25-metre swimming pool and an outdoor bar. Summer nights turn the spot into a chic after-hours club. Giving the Côte d’Azur a run for its money, Porto Mirabello offers 1,107 berths in total, with 100 berths for superyachts from 40 to 130 metres. In fact, Porto Mirabello ranks as number three in Europe for size. Its exclusive mega yacht quay has 16 births for 50 to 130metre yachts, with key-card entry, a private lounge deck, BBQ area, its own high-capacity diesel (SIF) high-flow filling station, and a helipad. Overall, Porto Mirabello offers round-the-clock security with CCTV, 24/7 service staff and on-site concierge service. It is also one of very few ports that offer a fullservice and on-site shipyard complete with dry dock. Another speciality is the long-term berths. Working with La Spezia’s port authority, there are 407 berths that will licence for 60-year terms; something that is certainly not easy to find anywhere in the Mediterranean.

all-year appeal

FROM LA SPEZIA TO... Monaco: 106 nautical miles Portovenere: 3.5 nautical miles Viareggio: 20 nautical miles Portofino: 33.5 nautical miles Elba Island: 78 nautical miles

La Spezia’s expansive gulf is highly protected from rough seas by both natural elements and a 620-metre breakwater. This ensures ease of navigation throughout the winter and utmost safety for sheltering its yachts while moored. But the best part, according to Menozzi, is the strategic location of La Spezia. All yacht harbours offer summer recreation, but he points out the endless activities available during the winter. “What do you like about Italy?” he asks with the signature Italian gesturing: hands and palms up. “The cars? Food? Fashion? History? Skiing? We have it all around us here.” In fact, most of Italy’s top spots for any of the above are within a two-hour drive or 50-minute helicopter ride from La Spezia and are best enjoyed in the cooler months.  sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018





Buon aPPeTiTo Originally from sleepy Suffolk, Lewis Longman moved to Cannes three years ago in the search of something meaningful to fill the predictable void of post-graduate life. Between the ubiquitous palm trees of the sunsoaked Côte d’azur and the terraces of its numerous restaurants, he thinks he has found that something...

There once was a time when, in my humble opinion, italian cuisine was nothing more than different shapes of pasta drowning in various sauces. i was wrong, of course. it is rich and vibrant; my naivety can perhaps be owed to how its dishes are blandly attempted the world over with stodgy pastas and lumpy pizzas. What better way to reeducate my palate than to pop across the border and indulge in a culture of gastronomy that has far more to teach – and offer – me than previously thought.

mediTerraneo Sanremo ust a five-minute walk from the quaint port of Sanremo is Mediterraneo. Clad in whitewood and corks, this little place emanates maritime charm. Even before the waiter handed us the menus, we were served a glass of fresh orange juice: a very pleasant – if not slightly unorthodox – way to start lunch. Though the restaurant brands itself as a pizzeria, the


anTica osTeria ravecca Genoa ucked away in the back streets of Genoa is the pokey yet bustling Antica Osteria Ravecca. It had just gone noon when we arrived, but the downstairs restaurant was buzzing with men and women in suits. I took the sharply dressed professionals as a sign that we’d found a good place for lunch.


menu is vast and varied, with all the Italian classics present and correct as well as many meat and fish dishes clearly rooted in Mediterranean cuisine. As with many places in Italy, when compared to the French Riviera, it is very sensibly priced and generously portioned. The pizzas (most under €10) were light and fresh, the prawns bursting with flavour and the service extremely good. All was washed down with what seemed like a bottomless bottle of Prosecco. If you need more of a reason to jump in the car and visit this seaside town, the Piazza Eroi Sanremesi is a thriving market hub Monday to Saturday from 6am to 1.30pm. 

After managing to order a bottle of red wine in broken Italian, we were stunned to discover a menu comprised of a few dishes per course at an incredible €10 scrawled on brown paper and stuck to the wall. It was obvious the menu changed regularly. I picked the farfalle pasta with a meat sauce: simple, but perfectly executed and unlike any pasta I have eaten before. I then had the Polpettone Genovese, which I assumed would be an octopus dish. The Italian and French languages aren’t as similar as I had thought... A potato and green bean tart was placed in front of me. Although far from what I thought I had ordered, it was an extremely tasty and lavish dish, leaving me with no room for dessert! 

Both restaurants can be found on Facebook, just search @RistorantePizeriaMediterraneo or @AnticaOsteriaRavecca! sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018




sPecialiTà The Gulf of Poets


at three hours from nice, la spezia is the last province in liguria. home to some of the most beloved villages and beaches of the italian riviera, it starts at deiva marina and finishes in sarzana. it includes the pristine mountain region of val di vara, known as the organic valley with over 60 producers of organic products and also counts with its lines a portion of the lunigiana, an ancient territory that pre-dates the romans, as well as the cinque terre. this varied landscape lends itself to a rich gastronomic heritage – not to mention three doc wine regions – while out in the gulf (which earnt its name as the Golfo dei Poeti through popularity with literary greats such as lord byron and Ernest hemingway), key ingredients from the region’s cuisine are found in plentiful supply.

mussels of la spezia ny mussels you eat in Northern Italy will have come from the gulf of La Spezia. They are prized for their flavour, which is owed to the uniqueness of the large expanse of protected water, with its soft currents and high salinity. Fishermen have been farming mussels off the coast of Lerici, Portovenere and the wild island of Palmaria since 1887. Today’s mussel farmers are the descendants of the original pioneers, and range in age from teens to 97. While technology has advanced and materials have changed, they continue to use traditional harvesting methods passed down through the generations. Mussel season peaks in the summer months, with a constant flow of boats arriving at the purification station near Lerici. Fishermen pull up with their small boats and unload case after case of freshly gathered mussels, which go straight into the rinsing machine. Before heading to market, the mussels are stored in tanks and are rigorously tested for bacteria and disease. Once packaged, the mussels are readily available throughout Liguria. Muscoli ripieni (stuffed mussels), which are filled with a mixture of the mollusc, breadcrumbs, Mortadella and parsley and cooked in a thick tomato sauce, are typical to La Spezia.


anchovies of monterosso

wine of the cinque Terre

he first village of the Cinque Terre is world famous for its particularly flavourful and sweet anchovies. Due to the microclimate of a 12-kilometre stretch in front of Monterosso, from Punto Mesco to Punto Caso, the sea becomes a paradise for schools of anchovies making their long journey from the Atlantic Ocean. The particular salinity and diet here makes for sweeter, more flavourful anchovies, giving a true ‘taste of the sea.’ Anchovy season falls between June and July, when colourful Gozzo boats bring in buckets of shiny, silver and still jumping fish. Restaurant menus across the region are chock-full of fresh anchovy dishes, from oven-baked tians to fresh white fillets. Don’t miss out on the worst-kept secret of the seafood, the classic antipasto misto, which is the best way to experience all the different anchovy preparations. Often written without a description, this menu item brings a selection of seafood appetisers including anchovies fried, stuffed, split, marinated in lemon, salted with capers and butter, breaded with garlic and vinegar, and more. But the most typical for locals is to eat fresh white anchovy filets marinated in lemon juice and vinegar, giving a delicate, natural flavour of anchovy. 

inque Terre is most famous for its five colourful cliff-side villages and the hiking trails that connect them, but it is also well known for its wine. These steep mountains have been producing wine for thousands of years, as recorded by the Roman writer Pliny, thanks to an ancient practice of terracing the harsh slopes with dry-stone walls that allowed the rugged Ligurians to grow grapes (as well as food). The area received DOC status in the 1970s and its vines continue to grow in the most difficult terrain around. Today, the 80 hectares of terraced vineyards are recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Cinque Terre DOC is made with three varieties: the native Bosco (minimum 40%), Vermentino and Albarola. This blend makes a pale yellow, herby and delightful white that pairs perfectly with the bounty of local seafood. But the vino bianco is not the only specialty wine of the region. The most traditional product you’ll find in the Cinque Terre is a passito called Sciacchetrá (sha-ket-TRA). Made using grapes sun-dried on racks (85% Bosco) and then fermented with the skins, Sciacchetrá DOC is a strong and incredibly sweet amber-coloured wine with notes of honey, butterscotch and citrus. All wineries in the Cinque Terre offer tastings by appointment. 



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S A I N T- T R O P E Z

© Gerhard Standop

high tech meets tradition By GERHARD STANDOP

Les Voiles de Saint Tropez: the sailing season’s finale

rom 29th September to 7th October, hundreds of sailing yachts will meet in Saint Tropez for the Mediterranean’s seasonal finale. Now in its 33rd year, the event that was born over beers shared by two sailing enthusiasts has gone on to become one of the most important regattas worldwide. It holds a special place in the hearts of many sailors not only for its famous venue, good weather and atmosphere, but also the unique mixture of modern, high-tech yachts and century-old, legendary vessels. Out in the bay, the 40-metre My Song (owned by the Loro Piana fashion house) has been known to float along-


side the famous Genie of the Lamp (a Wally belonging to Prince Carlo of Bourbon-Two Sicilies) and the 104-year-old and recently refurbished Moonbeam IV. For sailors and spectators alike, Les Voiles are a fixed date in the calendar. Those who aren’t fortunate enough to follow the regatta on a private yacht can book trips of various durations on the numerous boats that accompany the competing fleet. You can also get a firstclass view of the event from the coast and Saint Tropez itself. The main land-based activity takes place next to the Capitainerie so head there for crew gossip about upcoming races – and those that have already happened. The mooring of the boats in the evening is always worth watching, but watch out for flying lines thrown ashore in the signature loose swing. Music is aplenty during the 10-day event, with crew becoming an orchestra from their vessels. It’s amazing how far the instruments travel across water. Another new trend is cannon-fire, which some boats use as they arrive back in port. The Thursday is typically designated as a rest day, but there are still several key and special regattas that take place, such as the race for yachts over 100 years old and the Club 55 Cup, which commemorates Les Voiles’ founders. But whatever date you choose to watch these elegant vessels and take a stroll through the streets of Saint Tropez, you’ll be sure to go back again next year.  www.standop.net/voiles

christo in saint Tropez Fondation Linda & Guy Pieters opens in the Place des Lices CHRISTO AND JEANNE-CLAUDE THE LONDON MASTABA, SERPENTINE LAKE, HYDE PARK © 2018 Wolfgang Volz.

aint Tropez welcomed a new high-end art address to its main square this summer with the launch of the Fondation Linda & Guy Pieters in the Place des Lices. The inaugural exhibition is in homage to the work of celebrated artist Christo and his magnificent Mastaba project. In June, Christo unveiled the London Mastaba in Hyde Park. The temporary sculpture consists of 7,506 horizontally stacked barrels on a floating platform in the Serpentine Lake, and is the


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first major outdoor work of his to be displayed on British soil. The Mastaba concept is an enduring one for the Bulgaria-born artist; its origins can be traced back in his work to 1958. At the same time as the physical presentation, an exhibition is being held at the Serpentine Galleries in London (until 9th September) that shares a theme with the opening event at Linda & Guy Pieters Fondation. Both draw on Christo’s journey with his wife Jeanne-Claude (19352009) of creating his now numerous mastaba (meaning house for eternity or eternal house in Ancient Egyptian). Christo was in fact present at

the Saint Tropez location in late July to sign copies of his newly released book: Christo and Jeanne-Claude: Barrels and The Mastaba, 1958– 2018. The Fondation’s exhibition, which includes preparatory works, is open until 23rd September. The new gallery space is free to enter for the public and hopes to host three to four exhibitions per year. Next spring, the gallerist, who also operates three art institutions in Belgium, plans to open the doors to his garden and its sculpture collection in the Canoubiers area of Saint Tropez. 




sTronger TogeTher Multifaceted tourism in the Pays de Grasse Dreamy and diverse landscapes, cute but authentic villages, down-to-earth restaurants and a fascinating heritage in perfumery are just a few of the new cooperative’s many faces. he journey towards becoming a recognised intercommunalité, like the Nice Côte d’Azur Metropolis or CASA for the Sophia Antipolis area, started in 2014 for the Pays de Grasse. Although that made the community one of the first in the country to embrace the new status, it has taken until 2018 for the 23 communes* between the coast and the Préalpes (or lower Alps) to consolidate their joint concept with the launch of a new brand identity and centralised tourism office. “The Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region is a renowned destination around the world,” says the young major of Grasse, Jérôme Viaud. “The Pays de Grasse is at the heart of the Côte d’Azur and of French culture. It’s a multifaceted territory and a unique area that has potential for tourism all year-round.” Since the beginning of the summer, tourists and visitors


*Grasse (headquarters), Amirat, Andon, Auribeau-surSiagne, Briançonnet, Cabris, Caille, Collongues, Escragnolles, Gars, La Roquette-sur-Siagne, Le Mas, Le Tignet, Les Mujouls, Mouans-Sartoux, Pégomas, Peymeinade, Saint-Vallier-deThiey, Saint-Auban, Saint-Cézaire-sur-Siagne, Séranon, Spéracèdes & Valderoure

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will have encountered the new logo, updated website and marketing drive, which focus on four fields: Culture & Heritage; Flowers & Perfume; Activities in Nature; and Art de Vivre & Gastronomy. It has involved some major restructuring across the nearly two dozen municipalities. Just a single tourism office remains (in Grasse) while smaller bureaux d'information touristique are available in Cabris, Peymeinade, Saint-Cézaire-sur-Siagne and Saint-Vallierde-Thiey. The cooperative’s villages now have points d’information tourisme. This way, says Catherine Butty, the president of the Office de Tourisme Communautaire, ‘more can be achieved with less money’. “The Côte d’Azur welcomes more than 10 million tourists each year,” she explains, “and it is our objective to increase and harness the number of potential visitors [coming to the Pays de Grasse]. We’ve got to get our name out locally, regionally, nationally and internationally!” The zone is looking beyond day tourists, who it already performs relatively well with, and to do so must build on its hospitality scene. Grasse, the workhouse of the intercommunalité, is in the process of planning a high-end 80-bed hotel in the heart of the old town. While it certainly has enough grand old mansions and former hôtels particuliers for inspiration, the supply of available rooms is definitely lacking. Out in the Provençal countryside, picturesque villages and bustling towns of the Pays de Grasse, there’s plenty going on. From high-ropes courses to horseback riding, canyoning and fishing, and culinary journeys, museum visits and cultural excursions, just head to the new website for a taster of just some of the activities on offer in this nature and heritage-rich landscape.  www.paysdegrassetourisme.fr




fragrances Through The ages A new museum experience in Grasse


ART MEETS TECHNOLOGY modern museum should be both interactive and captivating: this way of thinking has been at the forefront of the International Museum of Perfume in Grasse – the MIP – since it opened 10 years ago. It is no doubt thanks to this approach that the establishment and its various sites have gone on to become a flagship attraction for the City of Perfume. The Pays de Grasse and friends of the museum recently came together to raise a total budget of €800,000 for renovations of the former Villa Pontevès, the headquarters of the museum complex, and further works next year. The impressive property was built in 1789, just before the outbreak of the French Revolution, and was originally reopened to the public in 2008. Since the summer, they have been able to experience the historical and cultural institution under a whole new guise. What’s new? Shortly after entering the Pontevès, visitors now find themselves in the newly created Comment fabrique-t-on du parfum aujourd'hui? section, which vividly explains how perfume is obtained from the raw plant material to the final product. Then they can embark on a chronological journey from Antiquity to the Middle Ages. The redesigned halls, which were renovated over the course of six months, continue the history of later epochs right up until the present days. This final stage will be again updated in 2019 to keep the story fresh. In the spaces dedicated to the Ancient Egyp-


tians, Greeks and Romans, a range of fascinating graphic installations bring these eras to light, such as the reproduction of a fresco of a house in Pompeii, features on the body care, hygiene and make-up habits of these peoples, and even scent samples to give the 21st century visitor an idea of what perfume was during those times. In another part of the Villa, the Middle Ages are considered, but divided into Europe and countries beyond our continent. One interesting fact that the exhibition throws up: the Christianisation of Europe meant that – for a time – perfume almost totally disappeared from people’s everyday lives while out in the East, the art flourished and contributed to important discoveries in the medical field. The permanent exhibition space (areas for temporary exhibits are to come) also shines a light on the development of the perfume industry in Grasse, which began in the Middle Ages thanks to the city’s leather tanners. Typical scent samples from this time are also available, but it might not be what you expect! 

Musée International de la Parfumerie (MIP) 2 Boulevard du Jeu-de-Ballon, Grasse Open daily from 10am to 7pm (October to April from 10am to 5.30pm) Admission: €4 (free for under 18s) Multilingual audio guide: €1 Guided tours every Saturday at 3pm (€2 for adults)

exuberant imagination meets technical drawings in Swiss artist Lionel Favre’s autumn exhibition at the International Museum of Perfume. The graduate of the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts used original sketches of technical equipment used by the 20th century perfume industry as a canvas for his work. With black ink and a creative sensitivity, Favre draws objects, people, animals and plants and – with a little colour – transforms the illustrations into unique and surreal works. “Technical plans from the past in forgotten cellars, there’s something mystical about them,” explains the 38-year-old. “The sketches have become unusable due to today's technical developments, but my transformation of them enlivens a new function and a new readability.” The works displayed in the MIP are the fruit of a meeting with Swiss company Givaudan, a leading manufacturer of flavours and fragrances, and a research journey into the history of perfume in Grasse. Givaudan provided him with plans from the company's archives, which combined with his experiences in the southern French city, enabled him to create these organic pieces. The exhibition, Lionel Favre: Per Fuma Technika, will be open to the public from 15th September to 11th November. The usual rates and opening hours of the MIP apply.

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a culTured autumn

Grimaldi Forum

What? As expected, the new cultural season is highly diverse in Grimaldi Forum, Monaco's modern events venue. Among the highlights for this autumn, the dance performance of the Kazakh Astana Ballet (14th & 15th Sept.); Slava's Snow Show, one of the most renowned clown shows for the whole family

with the presence of the clown Assisyai (6th to 9th Dec.); and the Monaco Dance Forum with the best modern dance has to offer (12th to 16th Dec.).

When? Starting 14th September

Where? Grimaldi Forum


© Askhat Nurekin

opéra nice côte d’azur What? With such a diverse – and plentiful – programme of events, it’s hard to pick just a few key moments in the coming months! My Fair Lady will delight musical fans as part of the Festival d’Operette (29th & 30th Sept.); enjoy Mozart and Mendelssohn

al fresco and for free in Place Saint Roch (13th Oct.); artistic director Éric Vu-An hosts a trio of ballet performances: Oktett, Quatre Derniers Lieder and Troy Game (between 19th & 28th Oct.); Georges Bizet’s Les Pêcheurs de Perles plays out at the Théâtre Lyrique (23rd, 25th & 27th Nov.); discover Christine Montalbetti’s theatre adaption of the famous Jekyll and Hyde story (6th & 7th Dec.); a genreblending Christmas


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concert by the Chœur de l’Opéra de Nice (21st & 22nd Dec.); and a festive dose of ballet with Les Deux Pigeons and Le Ballet de Faust choreographed by Éric Vu-An (between 22nd & 31st Dec.).

When? Launching on 22nd September

Where? Opéra Nice Côte d'Azur




© JC Vinaj

What? Monaco's Philharmonic Orchestra looks forward to an eventful new season, which will lead it on a tour around the world, in addition to their usual performances in Le Rocher. Under the direction of Kazuki Yamada, the opening night (21st Sept. at the Grimaldi Forum) will focus on Verdi, Shostakovich and Beethoven. Conductors Ton Koopman and Avi Avital will await the Orchestra for a memorable Baroque concert (30th Sept. at the Salle Garnier). Japanese conductor Kazuki Yamada will present a hymn to nature with works by Pärt, Bruch and Brahms (14th Oct. at Auditorium Rainier III). After a trip to Salzburg, the musicians will

orchestre Philarmonique de monte-carlo

return to Monaco with a Chant de la Terre performance under guest conductor Eliahu Inbal (soprano: Gerhild Romberger, tenor: Christian Elsner) (28th Oct. at Auditorium Rainier III).

When? Launching on 21st September

Where? Various locations in Monaco


What? After the 17/18 season, which had been outsourced due to renovation work, Grasse Theatre returns to its home town. The audience and the artists are now even closer to each other, promises director Jean Flores, who invites you to the festive inauguration (22nd Sept.). 42 performances are promised by the new cultural season at the city theatre, which does not have its own ensemble but invites companies from all over France and beyond. As usual, music, dance and circus will play an important role alongside plays for this season. There will be Dani, muse of Serge Gainsbourg and Helmut Newton, who reads and sings alongside actress Emmanuelle Seigner in their one of a kind concert La Nuit Ne Dure Pas (5th Oct.). Spanish

théâtre de Grasse dancer and internationally renowned choreographer Ana Morales will also be there to present her flamenco show Una Mirada Lenta (9th Nov.). The fascinating A Simple Space (24th Nov.), an acrobatic show by Australian ensemble of the same name will tell the audience the story of gravity and other myths in the circus tent of La-Roquette-sur-Siagne.

When? Theatre reopens on 22nd September

Where? Théâtre de Grasse, Grasse


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What? For the 2018-2019 season, conductor Benjamin Levy is proposing a veritable world tour of music across nearly 30 concerts. Highlights: Levy will lead his musicians and the talented cellist Edgar Moreau in a performance featuring Mendelssohn’s Scottish Symphony (30th Sept.); Escape to Buenos Aires in a collaboration with the Chœur Régional PACA (12th & 13th Oct.); a unique concert inspired by the birdsong of the nightingale and lark (2nd Dec.); the orchestra celebrates 30 years of its academy in the presence of past pupils who have become professional musicians around the world in Sympho New (21st Dec.); the Côte d’Azur and French composers are honoured in Paysages Français (26th Feb.); everything America, from gos-


orchestre de cannes

pel to folk and jazz with a Tap Dance Concerto by Morton Gould (8th Mar.); and a fascinating production called Les Mille et Une Nuits featuring the traditional violin, oud and darbuka creating a dialogue between two cultures, and between tradition and modernity (31st Mar.).

When? From 22nd September

Where? Venues across Cannes


The Opéra Monte-Carlo will welcome various productions, kicking-off the season with a guest performance by La Chapelle Musicale Reine Elisabeth Art College (13th & 14th Oct.) with two operettas by Offenbach, Un mari à la porte and Monsieur Choufleuri resterá chez lui. Ciné-concert of The Merry Widow with piano performance by Jean-François Zygel will revive the operetta (25th Oct.). The Shanghai Opera Ballet Company is expected for the dance gala (7th Nov.), and the dancers will once again perform at the end of the month (19, 22 & 25th Nov.) in


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The youthful Scène 55 in Mougins starts its second season with an impressive programme. Artistic director René Corbier has won ensembles from different parts of the world... 37 different performances are on the schedule. Highlights include the BB Brunes concert (19th Oct.); the Allegria dance evening (8th Nov.); the Salzburg Marionette Theatre, which will stage Antoine de Saint-Exupery’s famous Le Petit Prince in French (16th Nov.); German women's quartet Salut Salon, whose new programme Liebe, Love, Amour reinterprets classical

scène 55

music in a witty new way, will be present. There will also be a classical evening with violinist Renaud Capuçon and the Lausanne soloists with Bach and Tchaikovsky (10th Feb.).

When? Starting on 12th October

Where? Scène 55, Mougins


© Yannick Perrin / ODC



opéra monte-carlo

Camille Saint-Saens' opera Samson et Dalila, accompanied by the Monegasque Philharmonic Orchestra and the Monaco Opera Choir.

When? Launching on 13th October

Where? Salle Garnier & Grimaldi Forum

What? Director Daniel Benoin could engage, as usual, great names for his beautiful theatre’s new season. Starting with actor Gérard Depardieu’s moving tribute to singer Barbara in Depardieu chante Barbara (27th & 28th Sept.) Gérard Daguerre, who accompanied the dame en noir for almost 20 years, will be on stage as well. Another tribute, to French singer Yves Montand in Un Soir avec Montand with songs interpreted by Pierre Cassignard (4th, 5th, 6th & 9th Oct.). Famous French-Spanish choreographer, Blanca Li, will present


anthéa antibes her modern dance show Solstice, inspired by the effects of climate change (9th & 10th Oct.).

When? From 27th September

Where? Anthéa Antipolis – Antibes’ theatre




eld at the Villa Paloma of the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco, this Tom Wesselmann exhibition takes its title from French author Stendhal’s claim: La beauté n’est que la promesse du bonheur (translation: Beauty is but the promise of happiness). The link between an early 19th century romantic novelist and one of America’s greatest Pop artists is not immediately clear. Yet, as you spend time in the large-scale and erotically-charged world of Wesselmann (1931-2004), the premise that anticipation or ‘the promise’ is the greater part of pleasure is revealed. It could well change your perspective on an artist you might have previously dismissed as ‘the guy who did tan lines’. What is certain with this exhibition, which was masterminded by his estate and curated by Chris Sharp, is that Wesselmann’s position among the masters of the Pop movement is being fast consolidated. He is experiencing a huge upsurge in critical and commercial interest. There has never been a better time to visit a presentation of his work. In the air-conditioned cool of the three-floor gallery space, it is possible to surrender to the event and experience one of the finest moments in American culture; a time when consumerism was celebrated in the form of Pop Art. There are 25 drawings, paintings and sculptures from 1963 to 1993 to discover. Prepare for your perception of reality to be momentarily affected; the colour and cartoonish qualities bring the everyday alive. Even the slice of lemon in your drink might be a little bit brighter, a little bit tangier.



The Promise of haPPiness Tom Wesselmann: more than ‘the guy who did tan lines’ By SARAH HYDE 2

The 15-foot woman

 Photo 1

A VIEW OF THE EXHIBITION FEATURING STILL LIFE #48 (1964) WITH BEDROOM PAINTING #4 (1968) © NMNM / Jeffrey Sturges / The Estate of Tom Wesselmann licensed by VAGA, New York  Photo 2

TOM WESSELMAN IN MARCH 1962 © The Estate of Tom Wesselmann licensed by VAGA, New York

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Upon arrival, the embodiment of the show’s title looms large in the form of Great American Nude #53 (1964), one of a series of 100 works. Do not be alarmed if it feels like a billboard, it is supposed to. Within this work, it is possible to identify many of the recognisable elements of Wesselmann’s work, including his palette of primary colours (and plenty of orange), the flat nature of his work, and its figurative quality, which is just outside of the real. The reclining character, who is in fact the artist’s much-loved wife Claire, is stripped down to the essential elements. Her perfect blonde hair is stylised, her red mouth is both open and smiling (this is actually taken from a poster and collaged into the work), and her swollen nipples look like an ice cream topping. Oranges make their first appearance in his work. This 15-foot all-American goddess does not have eyes, but then again, does she need to see us seeing her? There has been much debate about the scale of the piece: is she more or less attractive as a result of her gigantic proportions? Does lust conform to the law of diminishing returns? Is it possible to have too much woman? It is an ongoing debate that has never


TOM WESSELMANN La Promesse du Bonheur villa Paloma at the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco Until 6th January 2019 Open every day from 10am to 6pm adult tickets: €6 (entrance is free on Sundays) www.nmnm.mc

 Photo 3


GREAT AMERICAN NUDE #53 (1964) © The Estate of Tom Wesselmann licensed by VAGA, New York  Photo 4

GINA'S HAND (1972-1982) © The Estate of Tom Wesselmann licensed by VAGA, New York  Photo 5

SEASCAPE #10 (1966) © The Estate of Tom Wesselmann licensed by VAGA, New York



In a discussion with curator Chris Sharp about the sexual nature of the work and its focus on the woman, he was almost too quick to provide assurances that Wesselmann was a regular American guy from the Midwest. The phrase ‘Damn straight’ was not used, but it could have been. There is certainly the implication that Wesselmann was a man of simple American tastes and a family man with strong American values. Under no circumstances could he have taken any sexual interest in portraying the female form other than that of his wife’s.

an all-american new realist Wesselmann grew up in Ohio, the heartland of the American dream. He began his first degree in psychology at the University of Cincinnati before being drafted into the US Army in 1952. He would serve two years in the States and later complete his studies. At the age of 26, he headed to New York and the Cooper Union School of Art. He graduated in 1959 and began the Great American Nude series in 1961. By the following year, he was included in an important group show, The New Realists, at the Sidney Janis Gallery. Although he did not like the affiliation with the Pop genre, at the time it seemed to be the best fit. Resist being seduced by the suggestion of simplicity in these flat works. The inclusion of Wesselmann’s preparatory sketches in the Monaco exhibition allow a powerful insight into the mind and method of the artist as well as the painstaking process and hard work that went into his creations from inception to execution. Their stylised nature and bright primary colours are so redolent of the age that inspired them. It is hard – difficult even – to accept that they are now part of history. Art history. 


been more alive. Moving forward, Sneakers and Purple Panties (1981) gives another clue to the narrative that runs through the exhibition and the kind of mind work that this artist demands from his spectator. We are pressed to consider how important anticipation is in the fulfilment of our pleasure, erotic or otherwise. This is perfectly illustrated on the next floor. A peerless breast is presented as part of a still life – just waiting to be looked at – while on another wall, a perfectly round and ripe tomato and a jar of mayonnaise is depicted in billboard scale. Your mind cannot help but take the next step.


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a TracTordriving conducTor One year in the field for the Philharmonic Orchestra of Nice’s György G. Ráth it all comes naturally to the musical director: with passion, grace and obvious pleasure, he provides his audiences with unforgettable moments and cultural experiences. By PETRA HALL

yörgy G. Ráth appears in the doorway with his folding electric bicycle under his arm. A mischievous sparkle in his blue eyes, he invites us into his office, which is just one of the many rooms in the honeycomb-like opera house (established in 1885). We speak in Italian, but with bits of German and French added in. It is a comfortable exchange: Ráth has worked with music greats around the world, including at the Hamburg State Opera, the Lyric Opera in Chicago and Venice’s Teatro La Fenice. At his native Hungarian State Opera in 2011, he led the first 3D production of Béla Bartók’s operatic piece Bluebeard’s Castle. Since joining the Nice Philharmonic Orchestra in September 2017 – just in time for its 70th anniversary – Ráth has stirred up the orchestra and been a constant presence of charm, competence and passion. His goal? “I would like to increase and expand the [Orchestra’s] musical offerings with the help of my almost 100 high-quality permanent musicians,” he says, speaking of all musical genres, from Mozart to Beethoven and Mahler to Bach as well as contemporary and jazz. “Modern works are not for everyone. The audience in Nice is rather traditional, but visitor numbers are encouraging.” He’s well aware of the statistics: “I love mathematics,” adds the maestro. Through the course of the year, 20 to 30 chamber music concerts alone are perfor-


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med in the opera house, Chagall Museum, auditorium of the Louis Nucéra library and Palais Lascaris. Other upcoming highlights include various ballet productions, a tribute to Leonard Bernstein (December 2018), operas like Don Giovanni (January 2019) and Arthur Honegger's Jeanne d'Arc (March 2018), which Ráth describes as ‘one of the finest pieces in music history’. Of course, having such a broad programme will mean more work for the musicians. Ráth's plans also extend to tours abroad. Before the versatile conductor came to the Côte d’Azur, he directed the Hungarian National Opera. Asked why he left his homeland, he says, “I was called upon and, most importantly, Nice’s orchestra wanted me. Our mutual love already existed before. I had already worked sporadically with the musicians for seven years. The atmosphere and our shared commitments are fantastic. That's what the audience feels when we play.” So it is a different experience to Budapest? “There the opera is like a factory with a conveyor-belt-like rhythm. Hundreds of performances chase one another... What stress! Then came Nice. Here there is the way of working unlike places such as the US or Germany, where discipline comes first. In Mediterranean countries, enthusiasm, heart and soul play the more important role.” Despite his enthusiasm for his adopted home in the south, he often returns to Kapolcs, a village in the heart of Hungary where he owns a 100 hectare farm. Today

he maintains a stable and his whole family head there in the summer. “I am the kind of man who would like to be doing everything,” laughs the father-of-five. “For a while I tried to do both – music and driving my tractor – but I do not have enough patience with nature.” He even shows talent as an architect and designed a large part of his property. Four of his children have flown the nest, and although none have become musicians, all play at least two instruments: “I did not want them to follow me; you have to make too many sacrifices.” Ráth's parents – his mother a pianist and his father a mathematician – were equally aware of this when their son fell madly in love with music at the age of 17. It happened in a church to the tune of the St Matthew Passion. “It hit me like a bolt of lightning,” he reflects. “Suddenly I knew I was going to be a musician. I was 10 years late... Usually you would learn solfège much earlier. Only after a very long time did my father finally accept that music could be a profession.” After a year behind the wheel of the orchestra, what do the next two years of his tenure hold? “I never forge plans for the future. I feel that I am led somehow by a force that keeps on helping me, guiding me. I of course have difficult moments, but if you get up in the morning with positive thoughts, it will all be fine. I firmly believe in that.” 


The agenda


Exciting events & exhibitions from across the region



Until 3rd September ANTIBES

summer arts fair 60 dealers of antiques and contemporary art at Port Vauban and on the Esplanade du Pre du Pécheurs www.summerartfair-antibes.com

6th – 23rd September MOUGINS

lavoir mougins The Ambassade Internationale des Arts (AIDA) has invited a dozen or so artists to exhibit their works in the Lavoir of Mougins www.mougins.fr

24th September – 8th October NICE

festival musiques d’aujourd’hui à demain s the summer winds down, the arts and culture of the south of France are gearing up for a new season. Starting at the far end of our region in the hills of Provence and making our way down along the coast of the Côte d’Azur, there are numerous fairs and exhibits not to be missed. Since the end of August, Château La Coste to the north of Aix-en-Provence (read more on page 58) has been featuring American painter Cy Twombly’s photography, with scenes from his life and studio taken on Polaroid and blown up on paper to make for fascinating images. Fellow photographer Thomas Dozol has also been picked for exhibition at the site as well as the Irish painter Guggi – his first solo event in the region. Moving down the coast, the Art’O’Rama Contemporary Art Fair in Marseilles opened on 31st August and is supported by the major cultural institutions of the region. Over 60 contemporary galleries are exhibiting at the waterfront location on Quai de la Joliette. If you are serious about buying art, this is a place to visit. On the other hand, fans of vintage should check out Sainte Maxime for its five-day fair (5th


to 7th October). Dealers in all things from the 1940s to 80s will be flocking to this quaint French Riviera town and it is sure to be a treasure trove. The long awaited Les Vacances du M. Pablo exhibition will open at the Picasso Museum in Antibes on 29th September, bringing together a wide range of work the Spanish maestro made during his time on the Côte d’Azur. As we move into autumn, the big story in contemporary art is Bernar Venet. Readers may be familiar with his large-scale work in Nice, Neuf Lignes Obliques, which was installed on the Promenade des Anglais in 2010 in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of the annexation of the County of Nice by France. Bernar Venet: Les Années Conceptuelles 1966-1976 opens at the city’s MAMAC on 12th October. It invites us into Venet’s mind, giving insight into the way he used mathematics and chaos theory during his early conceptual work. There is also a sister show at MAC Lyon from 21st September that real devotees of the French artist will certainly want to see. For our last stop, Menton’s Musée Jean Cocteau is still running its Sarah Bernhardt: Sacred Monster exhibition. It will delight anyone with a passion and appreciation for the Grande Dame of French theatre. 

A festival of music celebrating local composters at the Chagall Museum in Nice www.musees-nationauxalpesmaritimes.fr

4th – 7th October MONACO

The monte carlo cup This annual polo event is a rare opportunity to see the sport played locally www.montecarlopoloclub.mc

Until 27th January NICE

Bernice abbot Topographies American photographer (and assistant to Man Ray) documented New York City in the 1920s. At the Museum Charles du Nègre www.museephotographie.nice.fr

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rosé on The rocks

The south of France without its signature wine? Pas possible! By ELSA CARPENTER

rumours of a potential rosé shortage surfaced on both sides of the Channel earlier this year after rising temperatures led to soaring sales. British merchant Majestic was one of the first to mention a drought of the favourite southern France wine after a particularly balmy May bank holiday led to a 114% increase, but others were soon to follow, with the French press questioning: “Will there be enough rosé for this summer?” here’s one thing that wine producers across the globe can agree on: 2017 was a shockingly poor year. Records from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), which is based in Paris, suggest an overall decrease of 8.2% in production compared to the previous 12 months, but Western Europe was the biggest casualty. “The extreme weather events significantly impacted production,” says Jean-Marie Aurand, the director of the OIV. “It was a historic low: France was down 19%.”


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Although the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence (CIVP) was quick to say that it had no fears of a shortage – “The claims are baseless...” – the association does admit that production rates suffered in the latest vintage. “We recorded a fall of 12% in our harvests,” says its director, Brice Eymard. “This was due to severe frosts early in the year and a lack of rain in the summer. The wet and rainy conditions of this spring then the windy and dry of the summer should mean a good harvest for 2018. July and August will have been decisive. On a global level, the changes in climates are causing mass variations in harvests.” For one vineyard in the Var, however, the proclaimed shortage is all too real. “Some of our friends experienced losses of up to 80% last year – thanks to everything from wild boar to the hail and heatwaves – but we were down just 10%,” says Marine Chauvier of the Domaine de Marchandise. Still, all 300,000 of the vineyard’s bottles sold out in the first six months of this year. “We anticipated a ‘delicate’ August, but never imagined that we’d have to close the doors of our cave in June!” 2018 has been good to the Chauviers, who own and run the vineyard in Roquebrune-sur-Argens: “Some local producers have been hit again by the weather and outbreaks of mildew, but our vines have grown in relative serenity. Even though we have some fragile cépages, like Grenache and Tibouren, everything has gone well so far. It’s also been a great year for planting vines!” According to the vineyard, it might well be the quality of rosé in the French Riviera that is its downfall. “There isn’t a shortage of rosé, but there is of good rosé,” says Chauvier. “It’s important to make that distinction between the wines produced by vineyards such as ourselves and those of mass quantities at low cost.” Since the start of the millennium, rosé consumption has risen by 30% around the world. The celebrated rosés of Provence, however, have been even more well-received. “Our exports have increased by almost 550% in 10 years,” says Eymard. “Between 160 and 170 million bottles are produced by the Côtes de Provence, Côteaux d’Aix en Provence and Côteaux Varois en Provence (which account for 96% of the region’s wines in terms of volume) each year. This represents 42% of all French rosé with a protected designation of origin or AOC, and 5% of global production!” Finally it would seem that rosé has established itself as a respected and appreciated wine after years in the shade of blanc and rouge. Marie-Christine Fabre-Grimaldi, who runs Château de l’Aumérade with her husband and brother in Pierrefeu-du-Var and incidentally recorded a 20% drop in production last year, attributes the rise in sales to two sources: “The Americans and a female clientele!” She says that of the 6.4 million bottles of rosé produced across France, 3.5 million are destined for the US.


“The first ever edition of International Rosé Day was held on 22nd June,” she continues, and was a huge success from Saint Tropez to New York, Rome, Hong Kong and Rio de Janeiro. Rosé has truly become an institution.” Domaine de Marchandise’s Chauvier agrees: “Rosé can be paired with so many dishes and scenarios: as an aperitif or with a meal; with all seafood and cheeses; by the pool or at a barbecue... It’s a very diverse wine.” Aside from weather-related concerns, the rosé industry has also recently been rocked by revelations that Spanish wine has been sold off falsely or misleadingly as French. The story was broken by French daily Le Parisien, owned by LVMH (one of the world’s largest conglomerates with numerous wine and spirits subsidiaries), which called it the ‘scam of the century’. According to the newspaper, nearly 10 million mislabelled bottles were found on the shelves of four of France’s biggest wine merchants. After becoming aware of issues with poor or fraudulent labelling at the end of 2015, the Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Prevention of Fraud (DGCCRF), a part of the French administration under the Economy Ministry, led a wide-scale investigation over the next two years. One in five establishments inspected – from importers to distributors, restaurants and labelling factories –threw up anomalies. The most frequent deception – affecting around 4.6 million bottles – was to describe a wine as a Vin de France, which essentially means a table wine, even though the grapes were Spanish in origin. In more serious cases that could lead to prosecutions, there are cases of bottles falsely claiming to represent an indication géographique (IG). Eymard has confirmed to Riviera Insider that the Vins de Provence and other operators in our region have escaped the scandal, saying, “We maintain a mid to high-end position in the market that has not been impacted by this type of fraud. The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée system [that exists here] is managed by a series of specifications and controls, which offers certain guarantees to consumers.” Château de l’Aumérade’s Fabre-Grimaldi says, “The customer should verify labels to see if a wine has been bottled at source by looking for an R or the word Récoltant. You’ll find this on every bottle of Aumérade as all our grapes are harvested from our 330 hectares of vines.” The advice of Madame Chauvier is simple: “To be sure of what you are buying, go direct to the vineyard or a professional caviste.” Although the wines implicated are at the lower end of the price scale, Chauvier also recommends caution when it comes to buying a more expensive bottle. “The price of wine is rising very quickly and it’s not a good thing. Our customers have treated us well and rosé has proven itself as a wine; I won’t be using the current trends as an opportunity to hike up the price of a bottle!” 




GETTING WHAT YOU PAY FOR in France, there are eight obligatory indications that must be included on wine labels (nine for sparkling wines to identify sweetness: brut or sec, for example). Sales description There are two categories of wine: those with a geographical designation via the indication géographique protégée (iGP) or appellation d’origine protégée (aOP or aOC), and those without. in all cases, the label should state the type of wine and/or its geographical designation. Provenance This should be explained in at least one of two formats: for example, Vin de France or Produit de France. Alcohol by volume The aBv (or Tava in French) should be stated with the symbol and written percentage: % vol. Volume For example: 750ml. Bottling This identifies the person or company responsible for bottling the wine with the address often supplied via phrases such as: Mis en bouteille au château or Mis en bouteille à la propriété. Batch number a label should include the lot number (that will feature on all bottles produced under the same conditions) that is made up of numbers and/or letters preceded by L. Allergens The presence of e220 or sulphur dioxide must be indicated: Contient des sulfites or Contains sulphites. Health warnings Like all alcoholic drinks with aBv above 1.2%, wine labels must include the pictogram advising pregnant women not to consume alcohol. Other health warnings may also feature.


Additional indications Some labels will include information regarding the casks or wooden barrels in which a wine has been aged (élevé en fût or vieilli en fût). references to a Château, Domaine, Clos or Mas, for example, are exclusively reserved for wines with a geographical designation that only use grapes harvested from the estate. Wines that conformed to european Commission standards for organic agriculture may include the mention vin biologique on their labels.

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The world of wine a sommelier who has worked across europe – including in London for the likes of Hakkasan, Zuma and Hedone – Nicolas vieilleville is today the head of wine for the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Figuier de Saint Esprit in antibes. He shares his passion for his trade and the wines he lists in an interview with riviera insider’s editor-in-chief. our list, with a good dose of more traditional and prestigious wines. A sommelier buys wines according to his palate, and I’m not interested in commercial wines and making deals. I want small and rare productions, but this doesn’t have to mean expensive. I only offer wines that I’m willing to drink myself!

EC: A wine list as extensive as yours – I counted over 30 pages – can be intimidating to some guests. Where should they start? NV: Sommeliers are often very stiff in gastronomic restaurants. Personally, I think our job is to introduce suitable wines and share our knowledge with our guests, but also to go further than that. It’s important to create an atmosphere at the table. I like to go through our list with guests and gauge the tastes of the different people seated and also their dishes. I find my guests are almost always happy to leave the choice to me – with a discreet check of the price, of course.

EC: What wines on your list do you particularly recommend at the moment? Elsa Carpenter: What can you tell me about the wines available at Le Figuier de Saint Esprit? Nicolas Vieilleville: The wines at Le Figuier are turned toward biodynamic production and we include some top references to natural wines on

NV: These days I like to suggest light to medium body wines such as a Côtes du Rhône from Château de Terre Forte (a natural red wine), the Château d’Estoublon Grenache 100% Blanc 2014 Baux de Provence or the Thierry Mortet Bourgogne Passetoutgrains 2013.

EC: Is the Côtes de Provence region only good for its rosé? NV: Our region is hiding much more than rosé! Compared to Burgundy or Bordeaux, our red wines and producers still have a lot of work to do regarding their approach to storing wine and offering them at their best. Reds from Provence need time. However, there are some excellent winemakers here, such as the Constant family in Bandol who have been producing reds in small quantities since 1988. Wow, what wines they are! They could stand up to any number of the finest Bordeaux and are three times better value for money.

EC: Are the old rules – red wine with meat, white with fish – still valid? Cuisine has evolved massively in recent years and so has wine pairing. It’s always nice to have a good glass of red with a meat dish, but the same can be said for fish. A red is perfect for one of the signature dishes by Christian Morisset, the head chef and owner of Le Figuier: roasted turbot, meaty jus, xeres aged vinegar, shaved truffles, sliced potato... It’s the best piece of fish I have ever eaten. I think the best ally of a sommelier is the chef. Without great food, I can’t sell great wines: why would a guest spend money on a fantastic bottle if the dinner is only of average quality?

EC: It wasn’t that long ago that good quality wines were the preserve of just a few. Today they are being enjoyed by more and more people who have access to new sources of information, such as apps and books for amateur connoisseurs, for example. Has this changed the role of the sommelier? NV: Wine apps can be misleading when it comes to accurate pricing, but they still are an interesting way to remember labels you like and to get information about wine regions and the grapes used in your favourite bottle. What I really like about guests who are educating themselves with regards to wine is how much more interaction we can have. There’s nothing wrong with a guest who is a wine enthusiast! www.restaurant-figuier-saint-esprit.com

hoT sPoT A new look for Nikki Beach ince 2002, Nikki Beach on the sands of Pampelonne has been the Saint Tropez hot spot for stars and celebrities. The heat of the summer might be behind us now, but that shouldn’t stop you from soaking up some sun at this stylish address, which underwent a transformation earlier in the year. The


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glamour and exclusivity is still there, however its design has been pared back with the use of natural materials such as rattan, wicker and linen. Autumn is our favourite season: enjoy it here with excellent gastronomy on one of the region’s most beautiful beaches. www.nikkibeach.com




an essential lunch address Bessem in Mandelieu: modest prices for Michelin quality cuisine essem Ben Abdallah tactfully describes himself as a ‘tuniçois’. The 40-something chef left North Africa and came to the south of France at the tender age of 20 to pursue his culinary aspirations, first working for Michel Devillers at the Âne Rouge in Nice. Later he would cook under Michel del Burgo at the L’Orangerie in Paris, and for Spondi in Athens and Les Airelles of Courchevel, where he obtained two Michelin stars for his most venerated mentor, Pierre Gagnaire. Now he is a year into running his own restaurant in Mandelieu, one that bears his own name. Bessem is a believer in providing a quality culinary experience at an affordable price. His recently launched lunch menu – L’Essentiel Bessem – is the proof: two courses for €29 or


© Olivier Remualdo

© Olivier Remualdo

three for €35. The set menu blends his Tunisian origins with his appreciation for authentic Mediterranean flavours: heritage tomatoes and burrata or a fillet of Lisette mackerel with seasonal vegetables to start; meunière-style cod or young guinea fowl with marjoram potatoes for the main; and a soft chocolate mousse or verbena granita and watermelon as dessert. A suggestion du jour is also available in the menu (for an additional €6). Highly recommended are Bessem’s grilled king prawn risotto with lemon (€27) and the plancha-prepared red mullet with pomegranate and aubergine (€29). The restaurant is found mere minutes from the mairie and has a stylish interior dining room as well as a bucolic yet elegant terrace to offer 45 covers. Bessem earned an assiette in the Michelin Guide within months of opening. We wait to see what this humble chef will achieve in the future.  www.bessem-restaurant.com

la Table du royal A place where you can truly get away from it all ith one of the most breathtaking views on the Mediterranean, La Table du Royal owes much to its privileged location at the entrance of the Saint Jean Cap Ferrat peninsular. But this well-established restaurant, which belongs to the equally illustrious five-star Hôtel Royal Riviera, has also made its name on the back of a high-quality and creatively considered cuisine. Season after season, Michelin-starred chef Alain Parodi delights the taste buds of his clients with a series of meticulous dishes and desserts that change according to the bounty of the time of year. Starting from €68 for the menus (excluding drinks), his work provides a wide range of choice within the classical French style and heightened by a deep Mediterranean in-


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fluence. There are, of course, gluten-free and vegetarian options available and thanks to La Table’s experienced on-site sommelier, guests also get the best choices of wines to pair with meals. Another signature of the restaurant (3 Avenue

Jean Monnet, Saint Jean Cap Ferrat) is its impeccable and inventive dining experience throughout the year. Brunch is served every Sunday from mid-October, with lunch between 12.30pm and 2pm. For dinner service: 7.30pm to 10pm. www.royal-riviera.com




Located just north of aix-en-Provence, this unique wine and art project by irish real estate entrepreneur Patrick Mckillen continues to be a place of fascination. in addition to several new works of art, a number of exciting ongoing exhibitions and a renzo Piano hall that opened last year, the complex now has five restaurants and a luxury hotel.

made-Tomeasure arT

 Above photo TADAO ANDO’S ENTRANCE © Andrew Pattman  Left photo



hâteau La Coste is nothing less than a total work of art. With vineyards rising gently on Provençal hills and a gentle breeze bringing hints of lavender, forest and aromatic herbs, this Mediterranean landscape is the calm and serene setting for 30 works of contemporary art and architecture. Each has been specially created by the artist for its individual location on the site. What has been built over the last decade on this 200-hectare plot at the gates of the Luberon includes some of the finest names in the industry: Richard Serra, Jean Nouvel, Tadao Ando, Louise Bourgeois, Frank O. Gehry, Andy Goldsworthy... They and others have left their mark here in the form of sculptures, buildings or as part of an exhibition.


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in the beginning, there was wine

art & architecture

It all started in 2002, when Patrick ‘Paddy’ McKillen purchased the Château La Coste winery after many years of searching. In addition to his international business activities in the field of real estate project development in Dublin, London and other places around the world, he desired something of an agricultural project. Through visits to his sister Mara’s property in Aix-en-Provence, Paddy had come to appreciate the area and tasked her with finding a suitable place. Today La Coste produces mainly rosé, but also red and white wine. Its wines have been certified organic and biodynamic since 2009. Through his work, Paddy has worked with renowned architects for years. He is also friends with some of them as well as with many an artist, having been an avid collector for a long time. It was through this link that French architect Jean Nouvel was commissioned with the design of the first new building at La Coste: the minimalist and half-cylindrical aluminium winery. Since 2011, a V-shaped art centre building by Japanese architect and artist Tadao Andō (winner of the Pritzker Prize in 1995) has served as a lobby for the site and houses the museum shop and restaurant.

The La Coste concept is developing gradually. Befriended artists visit McKillen and leave their personal traces, each inspired by the landscape of Cézanne, the light of the south and the special atmosphere of this place, an area that has been inhabited since Antiquity. Meanwhile, La Coste has joined the circle of special addresses for contemporary art and architecture in France and Europe. Four installations have been added recently. Last year, two marble stone Truism Benches by American language artist Jenny Holzer joined the park. On their surface, a number of aphorisms are engraved and invite the resting visitor to meditate. A windy path that traces the shape of a Chinese symbol of happiness and desire (ruyi), and serves as a link between an ancient Roman road and a modern counterpart was also built. With this Ruyi Path, Chinese conceptual artist and human rights activist Ai Weiwei speaks of the current refugee crisis. For the last few months, a wooden structure called Komorebi by Japanese architect and artist Kengo Kuma (known for Tokyo's 2020 Olympic Stadium) has brought new energy to a raised wooded clearing while a light-

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shadow construction, Silver Room, by young Vietnamese artist Ti-A. features a little further on. An exhibition hall by Italian architect Renzo Piano (of The Shard in London) also opened last year and drives an incomplete wedge into the symmetry of the surrounding vines. It is dedicated, in particular, to the presentation of photography and sculptures.

cuisine & villa la coste Only one of the works on public exhibit was in Paddy’s possession prior to his acquisition of Château La Coste: a sculpture by American kinetic artist Alexander Calder. The authors of all additional pieces belong to the McKillens’ circle of friends – or friends of friends. How the art or architectural works are bought and paid for is kept discreetly silent. But the existence of a business model for the overall complex is, however, evident and certainly mandatory for such a privately financed art business. Over the years, the site’s managing director, Mara, and her equally media-shy brother have developed two boutiques (wine and olive oil tasting and the museum shop), a private and corporate events venue, a luxury hotel and now five restaurants.





very different kind in the central part of the domain: the only European of nine South American restaurants owned by Argentine celebrity chef Francis Mallmann. He is an exception among many top-rated chefs, having turned back to the primitive cooking and grilling techniques over an open fire of his Patagonian homeland. It is both simple and authentic.

The will for perfection


Prices for the 28 suites of Villa La Coste, some of which come with private pools, range from €650 a night in the off-season to €2,800 in the height of summer. In addition to a spa, bar and library, the hotel houses two of La Coste’s restaurants. The Louison pays homage to French-American artist Louise Bourgeois, whose piece entitled The Couple occupies a central place in the restaurant. This one Michelin star address is run by Marseille’s celebrated Gérald Passedat of Petit Nice, which itself has three étoiles. Passedat is renowned for his championing of Mediterranean cuisine. Here he marries the riches of the sea with the best that the countryside around Sainte-Victoire and the Luberon has to offer. As a counterbalance or compliment to Passedat's Mediterranean orientation – depending on your tastes – La Coste maintains another prestigious culinary destination of a sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018

An acclaimed culinary portfolio, leading architects, the greatest names in contemporary art... The desire is obvious at La Coste. Even the vegetable garden was created by the renowned Parisian landscape gardener, Louis Benech, who was responsible for the redesign of the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris. The transformation of the old winery into one of the exhibition halls was accomplished by none other than French interior designer, architect and designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte, who has worked on restorative projects for the Louvre, the Elysée Palace and various buildings on the Côte d'Azur. Another big name that cannot be missed when talking about La Coste: Canadian-American architect Frank O. Gehry (of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, for example). He created the Pavilion de Musique in the heart of the property for the temporary use of the London Serpentine Gallery in 2008. Featuring his typical deconstructivist style, the venue hosts a range of concerts and screenings during summer months. La Coste runs a year-round programme of events including lectures and seminars on art, wine and culinary themes, children's

workshops and even yoga classes, as well as regular tours of the Jean Nouvel winery. Contemporary art, sculpture and photography are also well-represented in either permanent or temporary format in the three exhibition halls.

a destiny unclassifiable A museum of contemporary art or a winery within an art factory? A luxury hotel with Michelin-starred establishments, a wine-growing estate or an upscale venue with dining facilities and hotel? La Coste simply cannot be easily categorised. According to Marie Rozet, head for culture and communication for La Coste, one should not necessarily dominate over the others. Each stands alone. As far as the art is concerned, the current secretive system is likely to continue to develop and stay alive. The next project is already appearing on the horizon in the form of a large contrustion site. American space and light artist James Turrell is creating a huge tunnel in a steep slope in the western part of the domain. Completion, at the earliest, is expected in 2019. 

CHÂTEAU LA COSTE 2750 route de la Cride, Le Puy Sainte réparade Current exhibitions: Thomas Dozol, Guggi & Cy Twombly (until 31st October) www.chateau-la-coste.com





island geTawaYs The top end of a sharing economy Billionaires around the world are entrusting their private islands to a certain young woman, Maya Takeda, who transforms them into a business. it’s a kind of airbnb for luxury properties! By AILA STÖCKMANN

he first to join the portfolio was Necker Island, the private Caribbean enclave belonging to British entrepreneur and billionaire Richard Branson. Then came The Brando on the French Polynesian Tetiaroa Atoll, which was bought in 1966 by actor Marlon Brando and has since welcomed the likes of Barack Obama and Pippa Middleton. Other island getaways, such as lodgings on the Baa Atoll in the Maldives, have followed with a similar concept of intelligent and sustainable luxury, but there are also more ‘modest’ addresses that include chalets in Switzerland and villas in the Mediterranean. Maya Takeda lives through these heavenly holiday destinations, leasing them on behalf of her exceedingly wealthy clients to the marginally less well-off. She was born in Paris, but raised in Nice by her Japanese parents and speaks an astounding six languages fluently. Maya founded the Ayat Luxury Selection – her take on the highly successful and digital rental marketplace – three years ago at the age of 31. Her tailor-made excursions to remote parts of the world come with unlimited service possibilities. “We can offer everything,” she says, referring to her ability to cater to any desire on the spot, from organising



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parties and yoga sessions under palm trees to yacht or helicopter trips. Maya has spent her life in different countries and experienced first-hand the difficulties of trying to find suitable accommodation as a student – she has a double master’s degree in business administration and finance – and intern. With the advent of a booming sharing economy, particularly in the holiday rental field, Maya found her own niche: an upscale version of Airbnb. She began her career as an investment banker: “It was an interesting time that brought much fun despite the great responsibility, but I had no free time...” Today the ambitious woman profits from what she learnt in the banking business, namely creating a solid business plan, how to convincingly communicate with clients from around the world, and above all, to work hard: day and night if need be. “I'm a positive person who never gives up,” she adds. When Maya started out, many of her luxury rentals were unknown among Europeans as opposed to Americans. Her books are full of young millionaires (and billionaires) like professional footballers from across the globe. She also has groups of friends who will share the cost of a villa, which might be €1,000 or €2,000 a night. The conditions are specified by the owner, who may include the maintenance costs of the property within the rental price. “These people are at home all over the world and are always looking for new kicks; the extraordinary,” she says of her clients, explaining that although the older generations may have more money, the younger grew up with Instagram. “They see everything online and want it all.” It’s a growing desire for uniqueness; for a travel experience unlike anyone else’s. Maya's secret to success, alongside her perseverance, discipline and creativity? The good relationships she maintains with the owners of these luxury addresses, managed often by phone: “In my job, you have to enjoy talking to people.” She has come across many challenges as a female start-up founder and says she repeatedly experiences the prejudices encountered by many other women in the business world. Maya has always had to negotiate and be prepared for a lot of persuading. “Getting money, for example, isn’t easy,” she says. “The banking world is a macho one; I think men are afraid of female competition...” Yet despite a fast-paced working life, in which she is responsible for all aspects, the adopted Niçoise still finds the time for golf and sailing in her beloved Côte d’Azur. “I don’t feel like my job is work,” she adds, “rather one big adventure with almost daily new experiences. Better still, when I talk to people based in other areas of the world, I feel a little like I’m on vacation myself!” 





The arT of mixologY

ShakeYourEvents: cocktail caterers Moving from one city to another with his brightly-lit bar, Julien ricci uses his experience as an advanced mixologist to create custom-made drinks and provide his clients with a unique insight into the art. At ShakeYourEvents, we consider ourselves cocktail caterers,” Julien Ricci explains. After many years working as a bartender in London and on the French Riviera, he decided to launch his own brand of events planning. “I wanted to give people a real mixology experience,” he continues, adding that his objective was also to provide his clients with a service above and beyond that on the market. In addition to the temporary bar, which can be booked for any type of party, ShakeYourEvents uses advanced techniques that one won’t see everywhere. As he always stays focused on the idea of giving his creations ‘a gastronomic touch’, one of his signatures is to produce molecular cocktails using foam kits and smoking guns. The description he gives of his company – a ‘sensorial provocateur’ – takes on its full meaning. Still, not everyone is ready for these kinds of new features, as he explains: “Some people will just ask us for a wide choice of cocktails they already know, and stick to the classics.”

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However, many of his clients are keen to rely upon his direction. “They are ready to try new things and let us guide them.” When deciding on what will be displayed and what drinks will be created, the type of evening is what it all depends on. Julien, of course, has to adapt to the client’s taste, but he also keeps in mind the context. Whether it is a special occasion or a party organised by a brand, the cocktails that will be served and the way he will present them are going to be different. “For weddings, we always ask for the couple’s preferences of fruit, cocktails in general, and even just their favourite colours,” Julien explains. With this information in mind, he can proceed to the creation of specific and personalised drinks for the couple. “At an event like a wedding, most people will also want to have flair bartenders who can dazzle their guests. It is always a big hit.” When working for bigger events, such as launch parties for new products or brands, he tailor-makes the drinks, keeping in mind the brand’s logo, for example, to get an idea of the colour-code and mood. This personalisation can go as far as the ice cubes!“We can even use stamps to recreate the brand’s logo on the ice cubes or on orange zest if we’re using some, and we can also use stencils to put the logo on the cocktails.” The experienced mixologist, who has spent years in the industry, has certainly built up a reputation regarding his passion for the craft and his innate style. Alongside his own company, he is the ambassador of a leading French brand of vodka that he draws on in the production of new drinks. Get in touch for a taste!  Tel.: +(0)6 69 43 10 00 www.shakeyourevents.com


In Provence • www.aumerade.com Please drink responsibly. Consume in moderation.

© Crédit photo Hervé Fabre

The true nature of rosé




Teeing off on The côTe d’azur Golf tournaments This autumn, once the heat of the summer has started to pass, there will be many a happy golfer heading down for a round on the Côte d’azur. The more ambitious among us will be looking to add a tournament or two to their visit, but there is much more to be gained than just a better handicap. These internationally-attended events are great places to socialise and meet fellow expats. When it comes to a good game of golf, the language barrier is nothing is the face of on-course obstacles... Trophée Soroptimist

Monsieur Golf Tour

1st September Golf de Valescure, Saint-Raphael The English have enjoyed this historic course for over a century and it still has plenty to offer. Above all, contestants with high handicaps get many opportunities to really bring them down: the short courses and the flat terrain make it (almost) easy. Save your focus for the precision required on the fast greens! www.golfdevalescure.com

9th September Golfe de Sainte-Maxime A spacious course high up in the hills yet also in the middle of a residential area: here you’ll have to be fit because there are a lot of ups and downs. The game is a two-player scramble and it’s less about your handicap, more about the fun of playing a good round in a team. Scramble is great for a foray into team playing, but it’s not always easy. That all depends on the partner! www.sainte-maxime.bluegreen.com

Porsche, Nice Matin & BMW 7th to 15th September Riviera Golf de Barbossi, Mandelieu These three traditional tournaments, which take place within two weeks (Porsche Cup on 7th, Golf Cup Nice Matin on 9th and BMW Golf Cup on 15th September), can all have an influence on your handicap. They are also a good opportunity to step on the gas again at this beautiful golf course as the end of the season approaches. The golf course meanders harmoniously through the landscape and offers a lot for art lovers. The 19th hole is very special, and the elegant clubhouse, with its huge foyer and beautiful terrace, promise a big party after the round. www.domainedebarbossi.fr

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Seniors Open 10th & 15th October Les Domaines de Saint Endréol, La Motte The Seniors Open are very popular, and are held monthly. This is where the older and more experienced golfers of the region compete. In addition to the tournament, guests and holidaymakers often mingle with the starters. After all, it’s a wonderful day out to play on this varied and challenging course. Word is that it’s worth sticking around afterwards for the party atmosphere for Saint Endréol... www.st-endreol.com

Mégève Saint Tropez 22nd September Beauvallon Golf Club, Grimaud This wonderful course above the Bay of Saint Tropez is parti-

cularly popular with locals so it’s a great place for gossip. It’s also a very knee-friendly site with little inclines. The stunning views make for a truly special experience. Beauvallon’s tournaments are well-attended so be sure to register ahead of time. www.golf-club-de-beauvallon.com

Maserati Cup 22nd September Golf de Biot, Biot Competition is rife at this club, which has a strong membership. Golf de Biot hosts tournaments all year long to its members, but also guests. The course is pretty close to the coast and covers a largely flat terrain that’s easy to manage on foot. The Maserati Cup is a major event that has been held here regularly for years, but you don’t necessarily need one to enter! www.golfdebiot.fr

Halloween 31st October Golf de Saint Donat, Grasse Have no fear! It’s all about Halloween – for a tournament using the Stableford scoring system – but it’s also a wonderful chance to enjoy this beautiful course in the autumn. A great all-round course with plenty of opportunities for good results. www.golfsaintdonat.com


Born in 1956 and a passionate golfer since 1992, raimund is a lover of France in all its forms: the people, the food and wine, the culture, and most importantly Provence and the Côte d'azur.

You can register for the various tournaments directly with the golf clubs or via their websites, where you will also find dates for the many other competitions that take place in the French Riviera for members and visitors. Bonne chance!




a life wiThouT PlasTic Living by the zéro déchet motto By ANNIKA JOERES

More and more people every day are pledging to reduce their garbage output. Here on the Côte d’azur, there are also a number of communities and even cities trying to move towards a lifestyle that doesn’t rely on plastics.

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It’s not just about garbage, it’s about a better quality of life,” says Laurence Thiebaut of the V.I.E. association in Vence. She believes that as well as helping the environment, each small change – making your own lunch instead of buying a pre-packaged sandwich or upcycling clothes or furniture instead of purchasing brand new versions – can ultimately lead to a more fulfilling life. Rubbish and waste is one of the biggest environmental crimes of our time. Most packaging is made of plastic and therefore petroleum and crude oil, which are all too often sourced from oppressive regions of the world, for example Kuwait or Saudi Arabia. That’s just the shortterm political problem behind plastic. In the long-term, every bit of plastic produced will last for a thousand years and even then only break up into tiny particles that will contaminate the soil. Even if plastic is disposed of professionally, the leftover residues remain toxic for centuries. Recycling is merely an emergency solution to the plastic we’ve already created. That’s why supporters of the zéro déchet movement (translation: zero waste) are sceptical of public campaigns promoting the better separation of rubbish. Any resident in France will have come across the phrase: trier et recycler. “The best type of garbage is the one that never even comes into being,” says Thiebaut. “Recycling requires energy, and a plastic bottle can only be re-used about five times anyway and after that it will be burnt.” Recycling is long, for sure: a bottle can’t simply be washed and reused. It’s sorted according to its chemical make-up, washed, cut up into tiny pieces and sorted again. She says the rough product is often taken to another sorting plant, washed again and broken down into even smaller pieces before being sieved. So much energy is required to get to this point. The south of France isn’t an area known for its recycling proficiency – many public buildings and sites lack the

basic sorting bins – so how much is actually being done? In fact, there are little to no exact figures for recycling rates. Across the country, around 1.7 million tonnes of plastic waste is produced each year. Less than 20% is recycled. Around 40% is used as an energy source (energy is collected from the burning of plastic products) while 40% goes straight to the dump. When France is compared to the Scandinavian nations, where 80% is recycled, its attempts look meagre at best. Sadder still, Europe-wide, France is a middle performer. The continent’s environmental agencies lay the blame for poor statistics on a range of issues: food packaged into small portions; goods ordered online that are delivered in excessive packaging; and high rates of use of disposable products such as the cups and cardboard sleeves for coffees-on-the-go.

action on the côte d’azur The cities of the region have a vested interest in reducing the amount of waste produced by their residents. After all, local authorities foot the bill for collection, sorting and disposal as well as the staff. This is one reason why more and more municipalities are now providing free composting sites for the public to get rid of degradable waste like potato peelings, egg shells and vegetable off-cuts. This type of waste rightly belongs in the ground with the earthworms that break it down. Thiebaut has spent the last few years travelling to and fro across the Côte d’Azur, hosting lectures and conferences with her club on how we can all bid adieu to garbage. In the countryside behind Nice, in the mountain village of Levens, the club recently built a modern, plastic-free kitchen for the Vert Azur nature festival. The room featured washable rags instead of throwaway sponges, pasta and cereals in glass jars rather than plastic wrappings, and homemade washing up liquid instead of shop-bought. It showed how sustainable and reusable materials can be just as – if


not more – beautiful to look at than petroleumfabricated products. “It’s a change of lifestyle and approach that takes time, but works very well,” says Thiebaut, “for the environment and ourselves.” For such a small community, it might be surprising that Levens is home to another eco club. In its first year, Aujà built a communal chicken coop and, in the second, began to promote the zéro déchet way of life. “We have also organised workshops on how to wrap presents and gifts using newspaper and leaves, learnt how to use laundry detergent economically, and sewn fabric bags to use when shopping for fruit and bread,” says one of its founders, Maud Solivérès. Local shops are being encouraged to take up the zéro déchet movement too by putting stickers on their doors that encourage customers to bring their own bags. There’s hope that change will also take place in the traditional boulangerie. When you think about how many hundreds of bags and pieces of paper are used to wrap fresh bread every morning and in every shop, asking the server to lay aside the packaging could have an enormous impact.




wanted: test families Vence is establishing itself as the mecca of zéro déchet living in France, with an extraordinary amount of ecofriendly clubs and associations, but things are getting equally serious in a number of other cities. Antibes, Le Cannet, Mougins, Mandelieu-La Napoule, Théoule-surMer, Opio, Chateauneuf-de-Grasse, Roquefort-les-Pins and are all looking for families who want to try and live without creating artificial waste from September 2018 to March 2019. You can register on the site www.univalom.fr. “We’ll show you how it’s possible,” says Thiebaut, who helps advise applicants on how to shop and consume. It is becoming easier to live this kind of lifestyle in the south of France. Numerous en vrac, or bulk shops have sprung up in recent years, allowing customers to buy their goods ‘loose’ and according to weight, such as cereals, dried fruits, biscuits, flour, pasta and nuts. The same service is available in most health food stores. Apply this tactic to many areas of your life and you’ll soon be as fuss and plastic-free as Thiebaut. She only creates a 20-litre bag of trash once every three months... 

Plastic bottles of all kinds Cans & aerosol containers Cardboard packaging, newspapers, magazines, leaflets, envelopes & composite packaging (like Tetra Pak)



Yoghurt cups Toothpaste tubes Plastic bags & outer or polystyrene packaging aluminium foil Wrapping paper

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How Sophia Antipolis is becoming a hub for tomorrow’s automotive industry

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The road To The fuTure


rom the modern giants of Google and Tesla to the well-established powerhouse brands like Mercedes, Volkswagen and Audi, it seems as though every car company around today wants in on automation. The smart or self-driving vehicle is no longer a sci-fi concept, but a reality, with tests ongoing throughout Europe and the wider world. Over the past few years, the south of France – and in particular the Sophia Antipolis technology basin – has emerged as a hotbed for innovation. The conditions here are just right according to those in the know, such


as Pierre Sigrist, the former director of research and development for Visteon and the current general manager of Epicnpoc (an automotive and software innovation company based in Sophia Antipolis). “The Côte d’Azur is a unique environment for experimentation,” he says, “with a wide variety of road types deployed across an atypical geography between sea and mountains; a spectrum of connectivity from highly connected zones to those without coverage; areas of very diverse population density; a pyramid of the ages with a particularly large presence of seniors; a range of social issues on both the coast and in the back-country; an excellent technology ecosystem; and


it has one of the world’s first official smart cities, the Métropole Nice Côte d'Azur.” From 5th to 7th September, Antibes will host the annual Driving Simulation Conference, which unites simulation experts from across the globe as well as various industry and academic communities. It’s a meeting of hi-tech minds; the like the region hopes to attract. “The first ever DSC event, which took place in 1995, was in Sophia Antipolis,” explains its Paris-based organiser and the president of the Driving Simulation Association, Andras Kemeny. “Our focus then was on ‘cooperative driving’, the precursor to autonomous driving. At the time, traditional car companies were hesitant to start the journey towards self-driving vehicles, with one of the main concerns being about safety and the public reaction towards accidents.” Over the last two decades, he explains, the simulation industry has been able to move the concept forwards. Data collected suggests that autonomous cars will have a fatal accident, on average, every 200 to 300 million kilometres. To monitor their safeness, the companies developing the vehicles have to trial their products over billions of kilometres and in various scenarios, from weather conditions to city centres versus quieter country lanes. This can be an extremely costly exercise to do in reality, but simulation provides an alternative. “To be accepted by the public, the self-driving car of tomorrow needs to be safer than cars of today,” says Kemeny. “Simulation provides a way of testing out these vehicles both in their autonomous mode and when the human driver has taken control.” Studies have shown that 50% of the population is anxious about handing control over to their vehicle, even though human error is to blame in an estimated 90% of car crashes. Part of the challenge for simulation companies is to put the driver in a realistic scenario and test their management of an autonomous vehicle in a potential accident. Kemeny anticipates the first autonomous cars to be on French roads by 2022. At the Artificial Intelligence for Humanity conference in Paris earlier this year, France’s 40-year-old president, Emmanuel Macron, pledged €1.5 billion euros of investment in the country’s AI industry. He also announced that, from 2019, Level 4 autonomous vehicles (cars that can drive themselves almost all the time without any human input) can be tested on French roads. “While the cars will be manufactured in existing plants rather than in research and development centres like Sophia Antipolis, that’s not to say that the technology hub won’t play a very important role. For some of the leading brands, the tools to make these self-driving cars will be designed here,” says Kemeny.

an existing ecosystem with investment potential The DSC conference is expected to attract around 100 companies from around the world, including Germany, Canada, the US, Japan and South Korea.






“In its role as host, Antibes is far more than just a business tourism destination,” says Jean-François Chapperon, the head of Team Côte d’Azur’s (TCA) International Networks, who will be present at the event. “We will be highlighting the strengths of the area within the automotive engineering and smart vehicle industries, making that link between its active ecosystem and strong investment potential for businesses from around the world.” This blend of networking and promotion is something TCA is taking international over the next few months, with visits to the ITS World Congress in Copenhagen (17th to 21st September) and a trip to Silicon Valley in October. Although it is ‘not exactly a partner’ of the DSC event, TCA has been involved in its affiliated industries for some time now. “The closure of the Texas Instruments offices in Villeneuve-Loubet in 2013 kick-started our smart vehicle initiative,” explains Chapperon. “The company was one of the pioneers to settle in the region in the 1960s and had built up a number of very specialist teams by the time it shut. The job of TCA is to attract foreign companies to the area and this existing pool of talent was one of the tools we have been able to use.” TCA helps businesses of all sizes with the different aspects of relocation to the south of France, from finding office space to legal obligations. It has flourished in the area of recruitinf highly trained and experienced personnel for IT, tech and design companies. “Many of those we have helped come to the region because of its aptitude as well as the qualified young people graduating from the universities in the area. As such, we have been able to further attract skilled workers and cutting-edge companies,” says Chapperon. For example Renault, which is one of the DSC’s major sponsors and recently took on more than 200 staff from Intel according to Chapperon. TCA helped the globally-recognisable brand set up its Software Labs just last year and the facilities are now working to accelerate Renault’s connected vehicle capabilities. But it isn’t just the mega corporations that TCA is working to attract. It’s now targeting small to mediumsized companies within the affiliated automotive field, such as simulator Optis, which manages a workforce of around 260. “Autonomous vehicle is already the subject of work and study for many automotive actors in the region,” says Epicnpoc’s Sigrist, “but in the Côte d’Azur as elsewhere, the advent of the autonomous vehicle will be done in successive stages. Users will need to change their habits of today and turn towards new paradigms such as car sharing and carpooling. For the autonomous vehicle to be adopted by users, it will have to be a means of transport that is more social and cost effective than the individual car we know today.” www.investincotedazur.com  sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018




five quesTions To ask aBouT Your uk Pension in france By ROB KAY, SENIOR PARTNER AT BLEVINS FRANKS

how much tax will i pay? If you have not accessed your UK pension and then take it all as a lump sum, you could pay just 7.5% in French taxes (other conditions apply). Otherwise, taking cash or income from UK pensions attracts income tax rates up to 45% plus 9.1% social charges. However, you will avoid social charges if you hold the EU form S1 (available once you reach UK State Pension age) or have not joined the French healthcare system. Taking private health insurance could therefore reduce your pension tax bill by 9.1%.

will the lifetime pension allowance (lTa) affect me? Combined UK pension benefits (excluding the State Pension) over £1.03 million invite LTA tax penalties of 55% for lump sums or 25% for income and transfers, even if you are a French resident. Once transferred overseas, funds are out of LTA range.

are there more tax-efficient opportunities in france? Transferring UK pensions to a Qualifying Recognised Overseas Pension Scheme (QROPS) or reinvesting funds into an assurance-vie can unlock tax benefits, estate planning advantages and currency flexibility. It is worth noting that benefits can vary greatly, so take personalised, professional advice for the best results.

will Brexit change things? Today, French residents can transfer UK pensions to an EU/EEA-based QROPS tax-free (a 25% charge applies outside the bloc). PostBrexit, the UK government may widen the net to capture transfers within the EU, and it may become harder to access UK pension funds tax-efficiently.

do i need regulated advice?

UK Financial Conduct Authority is compulsory when transferring ‘final-salary’ benefits worth £30,000+, but also sensible for anyone considering their pension options. At worst, making the wrong decision could mean losing everything through unsuitable investments or pension scams. With Brexit only months away, now is the time to review your pension arrangements. A locally-based adviser can tailor a suitable strategy for your unique circumstances and goals to help secure the retirement you want in France. 

INFO Summarised tax information is based upon our understanding of current laws and practices which may change. individuals should seek personalised advice. keep up to date on the financial issues that may affect you on the Blevins Franks news page at www.blevinsfranks.com.

Talking to an adviser who is regulated by the

Tax on foreign & offshore asseTs

inTroducing sTarT magazine

Advice from the British Embassy in Paris

A new edition to the Riviera Press line-up

s part of the British government’s Requirement to Correct legislation, UK taxpayers abroad are being urged to ensure that all their foreign income and assets (where there might be tax to pay) have been declared to Her Majesty's Revenue and Customs (HMRC) before the end of September. Failure to do so properly may incur new and ‘substantially higher penalties’ from 1st October, when HMRC introduces tougher fines. “The vast majority of people and businesses pay the right amount of tax,” writes the British Embassy in Paris in a communiqué made public over the summer. “However, many people may not realise that some straightforward actions, such as renting out a property or transferring income and assets from one country to another, could mean having to pay tax in the UK. This includes having income from or an asset in France (or anywhere else in the world). These must all be declared to HMRC.” The legislation also applies to those who live abroad and pay tax outside the UK, but rent out their UK home whilst living in France or another country. Information on how to inform HMRC via the Worldwide Disclosure Facility, such as how to register and payment deadlines, can be found on the government’s official website: www.gov.uk/guidance/worldwide-disclosure-facility-make-adisclosure. 

t is with great pleasure that the Riviera Press team announces the upcoming launch of START magazine. Due to be released a little later this autumn (in early October), the French-language publication is a local magazine dedicated to the business sector in the French Riviera, with a particular focus on entrepreneurial spirit and the Sophia Antipolis zone. The free magazine is to be published every two months and is targeted at business sites on the Côte d’Azur. From fascinating start-ups in Grasse to green developments in the Eco Vallée of Nice and revolutionary ideas in the Principality of Monaco, the magazine will offer diverse journalistic content supplemented by contributions from professionals in a range of industries. Editor-in-chief Marina Carvalho (who can be reached at m.carvalho@riviera-press.fr) joined our editorial department in July and is working hard to produce an inaugural edition full of inspiring and impressive business exploits in the region. For more information, get in touch! 


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orchesTraTing Your Plans for The fuTure Do you need some help with preparing your wealth tax declaration? Or need some support in establishing your income tax or your flat tax returns? Maybe you are an employer and require practical advice. Whatever your situation, have you ever considered calling on a chartered account for assistance with your financial, accounting, tax and social issues? The team at Concertæ is legally qualified and highly experienced to help with all of these scenarios.


oncertæ is a group of companies registered with the Ordre des Experts Comptables (a professional organisation of Chartered Accountants in France) and the Compagnie Nationale des Commissaires aux Comptes (for legal auditing). Concertæ is also a high-level team composed of strategic and operational consultants, accountants, auditors, judicial experts, multilingual collaborators, trainers. On a wider scale, it offers a complete network of


professionals, lawyers, bankers, and business managers that we make available to our customers. The group was born from a simple idea: to concentrate the best practices – and practitioners – to accompany our clients in their needs. Our objective today is: to mobilise our skills and our network so that you can speak with a registered specialist before making a final decision; to ensure

Get to know our team 3 associates: > Anis Nassif > Jean-Philippe Gioanni > Gérard-Louis Bosio 35 collaborators 800 clients in 70+ countries Offices in Nice & Cannes

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PresenTing Privilège A Rivaprim project ound in the hills above the picturesque village of Èze, the Privilège development is to be a small and intimate residence of 21 apartments that each feature a harmonious design within elegant and contemporary architecture. From its terraces, which feature solid glass railings, the site offers exceptional views of the Mediterranean coast and village perché of


commitments. A concert is a mixture of instruments that unite in a spirit of harmony. To act in concert is to act together, and with intelligence. It is our goal to accompany you, to support you, to be a guide and to seek out solutions. We have bases in both Nice and Cannes. The group is also a member of Inpact, a network created nearly 30 years ago that

represents 160 members in more than 70 countries worldwide. Local expertise and international presence are therefore the two components of the group’s success. 

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Èze. Privilège benefits from an environment of absolute calm yet with close proximity to Monaco and Nice, with its international airport. The apartments range from studios to four-room complexes and are equipped with high quality services for daily living comfort: spacious outdoor spaces, reversible air conditioning, 60x60 tiles and earthenware by Porcelanosa, high-end bathroom design, home automation systems (lighting, heating/air conditioning, shutters, presence simulation and camera control)... Step outside your private space and into a sumptuous, shared heated pool that promises exquisite moments of relaxation, sport and leisure all year-round.  www.rivaprim.fr / +33 (0)8 00 71 68 16


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french riviera 2ND SEPT. CANNES le Bal des fous This popular event is a chance for costume enthusiasts to get together and enjoy an entire night of music and festivities in the Palais des Festivals & des Congrès. www.lebaldesfous.com

3RD TO 9TH SEPT. SAINT-TROPEZ sainT-TroPez hYdroconTesT 2018 Around 250 students will compete in one of the biggest university competitions for maritime innovation. www.hydrocontest.org

7TH TO 9TH SEPT. ANTIBES world chamPionshiP of fooT-volleY For three days, 20 of the world’s best foot-volley teams will compete for the title of World Champions. www.antibesjuanlespins.com Grasse Beer fesTival To celebrate the twinning of Grasse with Ingolstadt, Germany, three days will be dedicated to beer and culinary specialties from both countries. www.ville-grasse.fr

8TH SEPT. CANNES sPecial sYmPhonY concerT Along with the Enedis Orchestra, the Cannes Provence-Alpes Côte d’Azur symphonic orchestra will offer a special symphony concert entitled: “une invitation à la fête”. www.orchestre-cannes.com

9TH SEPT. BIOT wine fesTival Organized by Amicale Biotoise des Traditions, the day will feature activities, animations and concerts. www.biot.fr

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CANNES YachTing fesTival In its 41st edition, visitors from all over the world come to discover the newest yachts in an elegant environment. www.cannesyachtingfestival.com

BIOT inTernaTional glass fesTival The very first edition of the ‘BIG Festival’ organised by glass artisans in order to promote artistic glass craftsmanship in Biot. www.biot.fr

SAINT-TROPEZ les voiles One of the trademarks of SaintTropez, the famous regatta that gathers old and new boats in the gulf of Saint-Tropez is back for another edition. www.lesvoilesdesainttropez.fr

14TH TO 16TH SEPT. MENTON ma ville esT Tango For three days, dance to the rhythms of Tango with live performances and events. www.tango-menton.fr

15TH SEPT. CANNES Tedxcannes 13 speakers will give TED Talks centred on the idea of knowing oneself at the Palais des Festivals of Cannes. www.tedxcannes.com NICE mimoza koike & asier edeso dance Monte-Carlo Ballet’s lead dancer, Mimoza Koike, accompanied by Spanish dancer Asier Edeso will performe in the Matisse Museum. www.musee-matisse-nice.org

15TH & 16TH SEPT. FRANCE Journées du PaTrimoine The 35th edition of European Heritage Day, with the theme of sharing, will welcome visitors to over 17 thousand monuments. www.journeesdupatrimoine.c ulture.gouv.fr

15TH TO 29TH SEPT. ANTIBES fesTival d’arT sacré The 25th anniversary of the Festival of Sacred Arts will be dedicated to the patrimonial treasures of Antibes with concerts in various locations. www.antibesjuanlespins.com

16TH SEPT. FRÉJUS color azur The French Riviera’s very own edition of the colour run offers 4 kilometres and 4 colour zones for running or walking. www.color-azur.com

21ST TO 23RD SEPT. FRANCE fêTe de la gasTronomie For its 8th edition, the Fête de la Gastronomie changes names to become Goût de France (Taste of France), but will continue with thousands of events all around the country. www.france.fr

22ND & 23RD SEPT. SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT sainT-Jean-caP-ferraT PresTige Hundreds of car collectors and enthusiasts gather in the peninsula to discover a very discerning selection of vintage vehicles. www.saintjeancapferratprestige.com

24TH TO 29TH SEPT. CANNES Panerai classic YachT challenge Cannes Yacht Club celebrates the 40th anniversary of the Régates Royales, one of the most anticipated events for boat lovers. www.regatesroyales.com

28TH SEPT. ANTIBES orchesTre de cannes The orchestra will play as part of the Festival d’Art Sacré (Festival of Sacred Art). Symphonies to be played include Mozart’s Requiem. www.orchestre-cannes.com

28TH TO 30TH SEPT. SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT TriBuTe To Jean cocTeau A selected number of literary works from Jean Cocteau’s “Théâtre de Poche” turned into staged shows at the Villa Santo Sospir. www.villasantosospir.fr

5TH TO 7TH OCT. JUAN-LES-PINS design & arTs weekend Centred on the theme of table decoration, the first edition of Weekend du Design et des Arts will welcome visitors to discover the art of decorating a table, from cutlery to candle holders. www.wda-juan.com MOUANS-SARTOUx fesTival du livre Around 400 authors invited and over 50 thousand visitors expected for one of the most important book festivals of the South of France. www.lefestivaldulivre.fr SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT Believe fair Exhibition, conferences, meditation and divination workshops, and new philosophies to discover in this 3-day fair about spirituality and the spiritual world. www.saintjeancapferrattourisme.fr

10TH TO 14TH OCT. FRÉJUS roc d’azur The biggest mountain bike race across Var’s most impressive landscapes, the 35th edition of Roc d’Azur will take place in a nature reserve in Fréjus. www.rocazur.com

12TH TO 14TH OCT. ANTIBES fesTi’Pal Three days dedicated to the leisure sport of sea paddling: professionals, amateurs and the curious are welcome. Highlights of the festival include races, workshops and initiation classes. www.festipal.fr


20TH & 21ST OCT.


JUAN-LES-PINS innovaTion village With more than 60 stalls, the Village des Sciences et de l’Innovation will feature four major themes: well-being, digital society, knowledge and sustainable development. www.antibesjuanlespins.com

Philharmonic orchesTra Symphonies by Bach and Vivaldi among other famous classical music composers will be played by the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra to celebrate Baroque art. www.opmc.com

25TH TO 27TH OCT. JUAN-LES-PINS Jammin’ Juan Over a hundred musicians, 27 bands and three nights of showcases in an event that puts jazz in the spotlight. www.jammin.jazzajuan.com

27TH TO 29TH OCT. ANTIBES wine & gasTronomY fair The famous Salon du Vin et de la Gastronomie is back in Antibes for its 10th edition featuring more than 70 exhibitors. www.antibesjuanlespins.fr

monaco 14TH & 15TH SEPT. kazakhsTan asTana BalleT gala A dance gala organized by the Astana Ballet, in which fairy and neoclassical ballet sets to celebrate the Great Steppe’s heritage through dance. www.grimaldiforum.com

21ST SEPT. Philharmonic orchesTra The OPMC will be conducted by Kazuki Yamada and Maxim Vengerov for a series of symphonies, including the very famous 5th symphony by Ludwig van Beethoven to launch the 2018/19 season. www.opmc.com

26TH TO 29TH SEPT. monaco YachT show More than 500 exhibiting companies showing and unveiling the latest yacht models in the world’s leading yacht exhibition. www.monacoyachtshow.com



4TH TO 7TH OCT. monTe-carlo Polo cuP 4 days of polo competition, galas and contests organized by the Monte-Carlo Polo Club for the 6th edition of the event. www.montecarlopoloclub.mc

7TH OCT. influencer awards monaco 2018 Monaco’s very first edition of the Influencer Awards will welcome the most influential talents from the web during a red carpet gala and a ceremony with ten rewarded categories. www.trustinfluencers.com

9TH OCT. Philharmonic orchesTra’s musical haPPY hours A concert of chamber music by the Goldberg Trio, in a more informal setting than usual, giving the audience a chance to meet the musicians. www.opmc.mc

11TH TO 14TH OCT. la rouTe du goûT For its third edition, the strictly organic festival La Route du Goût will offer a number of educational events and will enjoy the presence of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco. www.route-du-gout.com

20TH OCT. diTa von Teese Burlesque show For the first time in Monaco, Dita Von Teese, considered the international Queen of Burlesque will electrify the Opera Garnier Monte-Carlo with her show “The Art of The Teese”. www.montecarlolive.com

sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018




Riviera Press’ Summer Soirée

under To The sTars

For our most recent event, the Summer Soirée, Riviera Press chose a fantastic location: the Observatory of Nice. 375 metres above the city on Mont Gros and owning a breath-taking panorama from the Baie des Anges to the Massif de l'Esterel mountain range, it was a view that entranced each and every one of our 200 guests. Founded by patron Raphaël-Louis Bischoffsheim (1823-1906), the Observatoire de la Côte d'Azur was inaugurated in 1887. Much of its architecture was entrusted to the great Charles Garnier (18251898) while its dome was designed by the famous Gustave Eiffel (1832-1923). It has been a treasured site ever since and recently sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018

made it onto the silver screen, in Woody Allen’s Magic in the Moonlight (2014). After much chatting and our giveaway – this time featuring prizes from Zeades, Fitlane, the St Barth private beach, La Langouste and the Nice Opera – the evening came to an abrupt end at 11pm when the heavens opened. Thunder, lightning and pouring rain... It was as if we were in the very skies! Many thanks to our loyal partners: Are Mineral Water, Blue Coast Brewing Company, Château de l’Aumerade, Comptoir du Caviar, Neron Glacier, Tesla, Fresh & Cook and, of course, the Observatoire de la Côte d'Azur.














(1) L-R: Aila Stöckmann of RivieraZeit and Elsa Carpenter of Riviera Insider. (2) Hervé and Laurence Innocenti, owners of Innocenti Design Concept Home. (3) Hans-Jürgen Bäumler and wife Marina. (4) Maxime Artigues and Sophie Gastal from the Opéra de Nice. (5) L-R: Lawyer Michaela Schreyer, Communications Director of the Grimaldi Forum Hervé Zorgniotti and wife. (6) L-R: Antonia Beauvoisin-Brown of Kidooland with Riviera Insider’s Nicole Ruskell and Élodie Carsalade from Nice’s Chamber of Commerce and Industry. (7) Mountaineer Thomas Bubendorfer. (8) Thomas Mund-Hoym from the Bureau Européen d'Assurances with his wife. (9) L-R: CEO Passion Sea Helga Piaget, Riviera Press’ Petra Hall and Beatrix von Dellingshausen, the co-president of the German Club of Monaco. (10) The Riviera Airport in Albenga’s communications director, Valentina Botta, and its president, Clemens Toussaint.

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(1) L-R: Monica Pellegrini and Claudia Batthyany of the Fairmont Hotel. (2) Impressive cars attract influential women! An exhibit courtesy of our partner Tesla. (3) Matthias and Antje Bosse. (4) Petra Hall with Riviera Press publisher SĂŠbastien Fraisse. (5) L-R: Marketing Director Hotel Royal Riviera Sophie Valette and Terre Blanch Hotel Spa & Golf Resort Director Alain Mourgues with its communications manager, Sarah Monier. (6) L-R: Chef Ralph Nuss with friend. (7) Nice's German Councillor Christiane Amiel (centre) with family. (8) Jean-Christophe Richard from Cap Estel with his partner Goia. (9) Valerie Lemaire of Atout Consultant and Thomas Lemaire from TL Photography.

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(10) Karine Eden and Scarlett Khoury from Nice’s Plage Beau Rivage. (11) Marketing Director of Le Cube Receptions Angélique Samso and Charlotte Hrycyk. (12) Patrick Abdallah and Michel Heraud from Infinity Travaux. (13) Lawyer Zoubaïda Bouzou from Isegoria Conseils. (14) L-R: Villa Rivoli’s Barbara Kimmig, Isabelle Polfliet of Tiffany and Co, and Nathalie Forbiglio from John Taylor. (15) L-R: Sales Director of OGCN Cedric Kunstlich and wife; Audrey Talayrac, the CEO of Eneomey; Riviera Press’ Bich Lecourt; and CEO of Dermaceutic Laboratoire Nicola Fagiuoli. (16) L-R: Alessandro Randazzo of Longchamp, Sophie Gastal from the Opéra de Nice and Sylvie Bandini, also from Longchamp. (17) Virginie Proaskat from the Monaco Yacht Show team with Jean-Christophe Montoya. (18) Frédéric Minerva and Laurent Pariente of Aquila Yachting. (19) The marketing power behind Riviera Press: Patrice Saint-Léger, Dominique Freulon, Daniel Naro and Françoise Muller from left.

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The oBservaToire de la coTe d'azur A place of modern science & extraordinary cultural heritage Since its founding at the end of the 19th century, the Observatoire de la Côte d'azur (OCa) has been a leading French research institution in the field of earth sciences and astronomy. it is one of 25 scientific observatories across the country, but without a doubt has the most impressive location between sea, sky and mountains. ith approximately 450 employees across four sites (Mont Gros and Valrose in Nice, Sophia Antipolis, and the Plateau de Calern that links Caussols and Cipières), the OCA is responsible for the continuous and systematic collection of observational data from earth. Its patron was French banker and investment philanthropist Raphaël-Louis Bischoffsheim,


who, in the 1880s, commissioned the construction of the observatory on Nice’s Mont Gros. Its buildings were designed by Charles Garnier, the architect behind the celebrated opera houses of Paris and Monaco, and the dome was created by Gustave Eiffel, predominately known for the Eiffel Tower. In addition to its splendid setting – “The view extends over the sea, the mountains and the city, which together form a splendid panorama,” wrote Charles Garnier in 1892 – and scientific prowess, the OCA’s other claim to

fame is the 77-centimetre refractor at Nice Observatory, which was the world's largest, longest and highest refracting when it was built (1886). The OCA was a pioneer of its day and although it is now classed as a historical monument, it continues its work in the fields of astrophysics and geosciences as well as related sciences such as mechanics, signal-processing and optics using precision mechanics, high performance computing centres and virtual observatories. It is also a public institution whose tasks include training and outreach. For example, the OCA plays an active part in the teaching of physics, geosciences, data-processing and signal-processing at the Université de Nice Sophia Antipolis across all degree levels, and offers a Masters in Astronomy and Astrophysics. The site largely relies on sponsorship and donations to ensure it can remain open to the public. Although the main dome is currently undergoing works, guided tours of the OCA are available on Wednesdays and Saturdays (plus Fridays during school holidays). All tours begin at 2.45pm and reservations are obligatory. The educational visits are typically two hours in length and involve a two-kilometre tour of the grounds as well as a presentation of the OCA's major scientific projects will be offered in the Grand Méridien Room, such as how gravitational waves are detected, how a planet is formed and the work of the Gaia satellite, which recently noted the position of its billionth star. Adult tickets cost €6 and €3 for children and students (free for those under six years of age). Bookings can be made on the website.  www.oca.eu


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Stéphane Chenneveau Artisan chef Member of the Collège Culinaire de France 17 rue Gioffredo - 06000 Nice - 04 93 85 50 74 - 06 67 54 30 10



EXTENSIVE RANGE OF FRESH PASTA | WARM & WELCOMING SERVICE OPEN FOR LUNCHES & DINNERS Less than a minute from the Princely Palace of Monaco With an outdoor setting on Piaceta François Bosio

Restaurant Le Pinocchio • Tel. +377 93 30 96 20 30 Rue Comte Felix Gastaldi • 98000 Monaco sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018




riviera insider on tour



riviera insider founder honoured BY The cai he CAI, the German Club of Monaco, celebrated the summer with an elegant soirée at the Yacht Club de Monaco in July. Riviera Insider’s founder, Petra Hall, was touched to be named a lifetime honorary member and join an eminent list that includes Monaco's Minister of State Serge Telle and Regine and Erich Sixt. The club is known for the generosity of its members. Following a request for no presents on his 60th birthday, Prince Albert had instead suggested donations be made to the Mission Enfance, a local children’s charity. In total €30,000 was handed to the initiative by the CAI during the evening. 




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Les Algorithmes / Immeuble Thalès A / 2000 route des Lucioles 06410 Biot / Tel.: +33 (0)4 93 27 60 00 / Fax: + 33 (0)4 93 27 60 10 secretariat@riviera-press.fr / www.riviera-press.fr




Louis Dubois, the former Ritz Fauchon pastry chef, offers you top-range ice cream products. Careful attention is given to every step, from the ice cream to the cones, which are all created in an artisanal way products.



Our traditionally designed cart represents a great attraction for your events, birthdays, baptisms, weddings, receptions, etc. The chef will provide your flavours of choice as well as the opportunity to book the cart and his team of ice cream artisans Homemade ice cream cones and 750 mL ice cream pots available at Pastry Plaisirs, 15 Place St Franรงois 06300

For more information or bookings: 06 56 88 03 76 and neronglacier@yahoo.com

sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018



cluB vivanova The 2019 luxurY lifesTYle gala Saturday 6th April THE LUXURIOUS SALLE D’OR BALLROOM of the Fairmont Monte-Carlo will host Club Vivanova’s fifth annual edition of its famous Luxury Lifestyle Gala Dinner on 6th April 2019. Ticket holders will enjoy a Premier Cru Champagne aperitif as well as a four-course gourmet Meilleur Ouvrier de France menu with premium wine. The club’s charity auction is returning, with the proceeds going towards two different charities: Chances for Children that fights to give children

in Uganda a better education and more sustainable living conditions, and The Animal Fund (TAF), which tackles environmental issues such as pollution and overfishing in addition to its conservation work. The Luxury Lifestyle Gala evening will also host a number of other exciting events, including a New York haute couture fashion show, live entertainment with a DJ, and a contemporary art exhibition. Tickets are €175 per person and are all inclusive.  www.clubvivanova-luxurygala.com

uPcoming evenTs


summer Yacht show Party 28th September Le Méridien Beach Plaza, Monaco Club Vivanova and Champagne De Watère are getting together to organise a VIP Party on the seafront terrace of the five-star Méridien Beach Plaza resort during the Monaco Yacht Show. Tickets are €75 per person and include tastings of champagne, premium wines and cocktails that will be served from the open bar between 6pm and 9pm. Each attendee will be offered a complimentary take-home bottle of Champagne De Watère Brut or Rosé!

Barolo wine & white truffle weekend 10th & 11th November

Join The cluB CLUB VIVANOVA is the region’s fastest growing expat club and offers a range of exciting gourmet and cultural events across the Côte d’Azur and abroad. If you are not a Club Vivanova member, but are interested in joining, membership is €120 and runs for 365 days from the day you join. New members receive three bottles of premium New World wines by courier as a complimentary gift as well as numerous other benefits listed on the website, such as a free edition of Riviera Insider and VIP entrance to member-only events throughout the year. sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018

Barolo, Monforte d’Alba Club Vivanova is organising an entire weekend of activities that will allow guest to experience the Italian region of Piedmont in the very best way. Starting on the Saturday, visitors will enjoy a tour of the Marchesi di Barolo winery, with a light lunch and Barolo wine degustation on the programme. A gourmet regional wine dinner will conclude the day. On the Sunday, the day will start with a Piemontese deluxe buffet breakfast at the hotel Villa Beccaris then visitors will head to a truffle hunting session with an English-speaking guide and lunch degustation. Registration is €500 per person and includes all listed activities. www.clubvivanova.com/events




a warm welcome Tête-à-tête with Martine Turner, the president of Accueil des Villes Françaises

riviera insider: what is the work of accueil des villes françaises? Martine Turner: The Accueil des Villes Françaises (AVF) is an association with 70,000 members and 11,000 volunteers nationally. We provide a service to those who move to France for professional or personal reasons and give them the means to quickly integrate into their new environment. To this end, the AVF offers many different activities – culture, sport and outdoor pursuits, festivals, and indoor events like bridge and language and culinary classes – that allow newcomers to create a social network in their new place of residence. The association is run by volunteers and we are funded via members’ contributions, which enables us to finance premises in Nice’s city centre, for example.

we have nearly 600 members – 20% of whom are from abroad – and around 100 volunteers who endeavour to share our city’s rich historic and cultural diversity, and help [members] appreciate the special quality of life here. Last year, we welcomed 150 new arrivals and celebrated this with an event in November. We haven’t finalised our plans for 2018, but we’re hoping to organise a picnic on Mont Boron and the Plage des Fourmis in Beaulieu in the autumn. Nice’s Accueil des Villes Françaises centre on 54 Rue Gioffredo is open Monday to Friday (9.30am to 12pm and 2.30pm to 5pm). www.afv.asso.fr/nice

ri: what is your presence in the south of france? MT: There are 300 AVF centres in France (split across 17 regions). We have 32 here in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. In Nice,

sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018




asked: “Well, it’s true isn’t it?” and she responded that that wasn’t the point! Her boss later approved my manuscript and the book was published in 2001. Americans and the Making of the Riviera was inspired by more unknown history, including Thomas Jefferson and the Murphys, an American couple who really shaped the Côte d’Azur lifestyle that is so popular today. what was your most surprising historical discovery about the region? The area has an amazing history. I was most surprised to discover how much of an effect Queen Victoria had on the region. She really led the arrival of English nobility to the region and this is almost an unknown part of its history. I was also surprised to learn that Thomas Jefferson was a regular visitor during his time in Paris and nobody in Nice knew that! I went into the tourist office to ask if they knew anything about it and they didn’t. Now there is a street named after Jefferson in Nice.

exPaT focus: michael nelson hat first brought you to w the french riviera? I had always wanted to live in France and we tried a few places, first in Le Puys, which my children found too isolated, then we moved to a lakeside home in Haute Savoie, but it rained all the time. So we decided on the Riviera because it had such beautiful weather. We bought our home in Opio 25 years ago and we’ve been very happy here. You’ve written three books on the french riviera. can you tell us what inspired you to write them? Well, after buying our house, I wondered how I would occupy myself. I came across a book on the centenary of the Excelsior Hotel Regina in Cimiez (Nice), and how it had been designed sePTemBer / ocToBer 2018

specifically to accommodate Queen Victoria and her immense staff. This fascinated me because nobody had written about Victoria in the French Riviera. It was unknown. She came nine times, spending almost a total of a year in the region, including Menton, Nice and Grasse. So that was my first book about the region. I thought I could research it here, but it turned out that most of the documents were located in the Windsor Castle archives! Funnily enough, I discovered that the mistress of Victoria’s son – the then Prince of Wales – is a distant relative of Camilla Parker-Bowles, who had been the current Prince of Wales’ mistress (now his wife, of course). The librarian of Buckingham Palace vetoed my book from being published because it was considered ‘salacious gossip’. I

what makes the french riviera a special place for you? The region has been extraordinarily international for all of its history. Even as far back as the 7th century, foreigners were sought to further the region. In the 11th century, the king sent as far away as Kiev to find himself a suitable queen, which is an immense distance for that time. There is such a mix of international influence and it still permeates today. The area is highly experienced in attracting tourists and also catering to its international residents. I buy all my dailies from Babette’s newsagent in Opio. I can get the same papers here every morning at 8am, the same time as in London. It’s extraordinary. where is your favourite place in the region? I really enjoy Cimiez for the Roman ruins and the beautiful 19th century architecture that is so prevalent. The beautiful Excelsior Hotel, which is now apartments, dominates the area. 

Publishing Director SEBASTIEN FRAISSE s.fraisse@riviera-press.fr Managing Director BICH LECOURT b.lecourt@riviera-press.fr Editor-in-Chief ELSA CARPENTER e.carpenter@riviera-press.fr Contributors Petra Hall, Nicole Ruskell, Aila Stöckmann, Leïla Zemirli, Sarah Hyde, Lewis Longman, Bernard Van de Kerckhove, Annika Joeres, Gerhard Standop, Raimund Theobald & Christine Helfritz Creative Director VINCENT ARTUS vincent.artus@wanadoo.fr Advertising & PR FRANCOISE MULLER Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 29 f.muller@riviera-press.fr PATRICE SAINT-LEGER Tel: +33 (0)4 93 27 60 00 p.saintleger@riviera-press.fr DANIEL NARO Tel: +33 (0)4 93 27 60 00 d.naro@riviera-press.fr Distribution DOMINIQUE FREULON Tel: +33 (0)4 97 00 11 22 d.freulon@riviera-press.fr Secretary CAROLE HEBERT contact@riviera-press.fr Manuscripts and photos will not be returned unless previously agreed. Articles do not represent the opinion of the Editor. The publishing house is not responsible for the correct contents of ads. © 2018 by Riviera Press s.a.r.l.



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