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fo r th e b u s i n e s s of r e t a ili n g j ewe ll e r y s i n c e 1879

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Naissance d’une mine d’or, L’art de la joaillerie


White metal jewellery is here to stay

Looking Forward Dmitry Kaplan, GemOro Goldsmith, Edmonton AB


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24 Gold Group Ltd.

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Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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Established 1879 DECEMBER 2011/january EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol . 132, no. 1 2012 • vol. 132, no. 8 Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | Lucy Holden| Associate Publisher | lucy holden Associate Publisher Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | Carol besler Consulting Editor Weigle Editor | Paul aguirre Associate EditorCarlos | Lynne Shuttleworth Associate Editor | scott JordanJessica Art Director | Uniac Beauty & Lifestyle Editorial Specialist | Elena ViltovskaiaIrina Designer | Lytchak, Lorina Owen Editoral Interns | stacy Karjala Designer | Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | Scott Jordan Art Director | Vincett Graphic Designer Melanie seth Controller & Operations | Sarah Suba Kailasapillai Production Coordinator | sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | Leslie Witol Finance Administrator | Matthewchris Pompey Multimedia Davey, lorraine Specialist Depasque,| Martin irving, CONtRibUtORs C A N A DA’ S #1 J E W E L L E RY M AG A Z I N E

John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean

Aileen Bennett, CONTRIBUTORS MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihnNoam pham,Carver, Dean Norma Menaguzzi-Spall,

J E W E L L E RY: T H E E X P E R I E N C E O F P E R S O N A L T R A N S F O R M A T I O N & I D E N T I T Y

Lamont, Duncan Parker, Lillian Patz, sanderson, bonnieJohn siegler. Karina Remley, Bonnie Siegler, E.Z. Guler-Tuck

salEs A B S O L U T E LY YO U

lucy holden

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AssociAtesales publisher (416) 203-7900 6117 publisher Lucy Holdenext.Associate email tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 email ADVertisiNG sAles tel . Jeff (416) 203-7900 ext.ADVERTISING 6122 Sales Yamaguchi email tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 email ADVertisiNG sAles tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126 email PUBLICATION PARTNERS CIRCULATION Garth Atkinson 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101 publicAtioN pArtNers Pickering, Ontario, L1V 1A1 345 Kingston road, suite toll101 free 1-877-547-2246 pickering, ontario, l1V email toll free 1-877-547-2246 email Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106 60 bloor street West, suite 1106Ontario, M4W 3B8 Toronto, toronto, ontario, M4W tel3b8 . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507 555 chabanel street West, suite 1507 Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2 Montreal, Quebec, h2N tel2J2 . (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 tel . (514) 381-5196 faxtoll (514) 381-6223 free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 tel .

Jeff Yamaguchi

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PE A R LS: SEX Y & INSPIRED $ 1 4 . 9 9 D I S P L AY U N T I L M A R C H 2 0 1 2

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head Office

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Montreal Office

Jewellery, the experience of personal transformation and identity

Check our Website for Monthly Specials!

For More Information Contact: Olivier Felicio 1.888.358.8186 ext. 6107 Lucy Holden 1.888.358.8186 ext. 6117

Phone 1.800.663.6472 Fax 1.800.316.2999 Email:

Subscription Rates

Canada — one year, $185; two years,subscription $175; three yearsRates $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide iscanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; $160. united states one year,and us$205. — one year us$205 include Guide sues.) 8%three P.S.T.years for Newfoundland, New — Brunswick Nova Foreign Scotia residents. Single copies(subscriptions — $25; Buyers’ Guidebuyers’ $40. Bulk ratesis-— six or more subscriptions, $17.50 sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; Guide per $40.year bulk(Canada rates —only). six or more subscriptions, $17.50 perbuyers’ subscription per subscription per year (canada only). Change of Address

Change address telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 email: telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1 or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, 101,Media pickering, Published by Rivesuite Gauche II Inc.oN canada l1V 1A1 Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc. Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreementmade No. 40678000. the publisher does of notthe assume any responsibility the contents of any advertisement anyadvertiser and all for any misprints in advertising not representations or warranties in such advertising are those advertiser and not of thefor publisher. The publisher is not liable and to any representations or warranties made inthe such advertising are those advertiser of of thethe publisher. theliability publisher is not not exceed liable tothe any advertiser forpublisher’s any misprints in advertising not fault of the publisher andofinthe such an eventand thenot limit publisher’s shall amount of the charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication the fault of the publisher and in suchmay an event the limit ofinthe liability not exceed amount of charge forJeweller such advertising. portiontoofreview this publication be reproduced, allpublisher’s or part, without theshall express writtenthe permission ofthe thepublisher’s publisher. Canadian magazineNo is pleased unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration may be reproduced, in all or part, without written permission of the publisher. Jeweller magazine(photographs, is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration underthe theexpress following conditions: all material submittedcanadian for editorial consideration illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller under the following conditions: all material submitted (photographs, illustrations, written textinternet, in electronic or hard copy the format) mayof,beorused canadian Jeweller and their affiliatesfor foreditorial editorialconsideration purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, disc, etc.) without consent the by payment of compensation to, the party providing such and their affiliates for editorial purposes in anyPlease mediadirect (whether printed, to electronic, internet, disc,Return etc.) without the consent theGauche paymentMedia, of compensation to, the party such ON Canada M4W 3B8. material. submissions the Editor, Canadian. undeliverable itemsof,toorRive 60 Bloor Street West, Ste.providing 1106, Toronto, material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

CMCA AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

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CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1w1 w•w.j ca na nu aa dr yi a2n0j e1 w 2 | January/February 2011 e l l e r. c o m

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Gc is a registered trademark of GUESS?, Inc. Art Dir. Paul Marciano

Sport Class XXL Blackout Chronograph Matte black ceramic Sapphire crystal Swiss Made

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44 50 DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

34. getting started with social media It’s a great way to connect with your customers and hear what they have to say.

36. Gazing at you Cat’s eye gems are a fun and fascinating phenomenon.

Dmitry Kaplan stays ahead of the game and opens a unique second location of GemOro in Edmonton.

50. paint it white The consumer love affair with white metal jewellery looks like it’s here to stay.

CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

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A look at the winners from the 2011 Excellence In Design competition.

68. feri mosh Aims to be “above all.”




62. EXcellence In Design

SPÉCIAL : CJ en français 56.

naissance d’une mine d’or


l’art de la joaillerie

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Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery! Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat and up in Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green and more (All certified G.I.A)

STOCK# SHAPE CARAT COLOR CLARITY DIMENSION HB/K-1239 RAD 1.51 FCY IF 6.70*6.15*4.06 HB/K/1240 RAD 1.57 FCY IF 6.29*6.23*4.19 HB/K/1244 RAD 1.80 FCY IF 6.76*6.69*4.69 HB/K/1245 CUSH 1.84 FCY IF 7.21*6.77*4.27 HB/K/1257 CUSH 3.60 FIY IF 8.69*8.36*5.54 HB/K/1265 RAD 4.12 FCY IF 9.55*8.76*5.44 HB/K/1266 RAD 5.17 FCY IF 9.74*9.44*6.09 HB/1111 CUSH 9.11 FCY SI2 11.46*11.36*7.70 HB/K/1263 CUSH 0.54 F/PU/P VS2 4.98*4.26*2.89 HB/1280 CUSH 1.02 F/PU/P SI1 5.95*5.36*3.61 HB/K/1259 PEAR 1.18 F/I/P H/C 7.62*5.39*3.74 HB/1281 CUSH 1.21 F/I/P H/C 6.33*6.28*3.70 HB/K/1260 CUSH 1.57 F/PU/P HC 7.03*6.62*4.05 HB/1282 OVAL 1.00 F/I/BLUE IF 8.70*6.46*2.48


Please call us




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70 26


Letter from the editor


Product profiles


star watch TM

72. proudly canadian Selling high-quality Canadian diamonds is a passion for ERL’s Ronen Ziv.

24. Who’s news

76. networking helps police

26. For the record

By working together we can increase the number of cases that are solved.

70. art meets science Claudio Pino designs sculptural rings that reflect the wearer’s movements.

86. Showcase/marketplace 96. Fax back 98.


CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

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Last word

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For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 88

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letterfromtheeditor C A N A DA’ S #1 J E W E L L E RY M AG A Z I N E

J E W E L L E RY: T H E E X P E R I E N C E O F P E R S O N A L T R A N S F O R M A T I O N & I D E N T I T Y


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Ever Cover (FINAL) V02.indd 1

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YOUR STORE NAME HERE YOUR OPTIONS 1. $3.00 per copy all inclusive 2. $3.00 per copy all inclusive + $350.00 to have customized copy with store name on EVER cover 3. For complete 5,000 customized EVER copies created for store (minimum order of 5,000 copies)

Store name: Address:

Phone: Fax: Email: Contact name:

Fax to: 1-888-849-0155


Raise your glass Don’t worry, this won’t be another one of those “New Year’s resolutions” letters. I am all for making lists and setting goals for the coming year. In fact, as business people you wouldn’t survive without them. Yet I also feel sometimes we don’t celebrate our achievements as much as we should. It’s easy to drown in worry about hard times on the horizon or regret everything we didn’t do and should have done. So let’s take a minute to enjoy all the happiness and accomplishments 2011 has brought us. There are success stories, such as the one spearheaded by Dmitry Kaplan who recently opened a second, stunning location of GemOro Goldsmith in Edmonton, raising the bar for jewellery retailers in the Alberta capital (page 44). Or the ongoing rise of Pandora which opened two more stores in the Toronto area (page 30). It was also a great year for creativity. The 12 fi nalists of the Excellence in Design Awards are a clear testament to that. Their bold and beautiful designs keep the industry vibrant and consumers asking for more (page 62). We also have personal reasons to celebrate here at Canadian Jeweller. We’ve been flooded by words of praise and encouragement as a result of last issue’s French corner. So much so, it’s now a recurring section, one that will celebrate French Canada’s many achievements (page 56).


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Furthermore, the launch of Ever magazine (out now) certainly put a smile on our faces. We believe it will be a powerful tool for our industry...and a beautiful one as well! Pick up a copy and let us know your thoughts on it. Since planning will defi nitely help us make 2012 a great year we’re including a comprehensive guide (plus a handy wall calendar) of all the key trade shows you’ll want to attend. The time for words is now over. The only one left for all of us should be “cheers!”

Carlos Weigle Editor


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A complementary approach Jewelers Mutual and the canadian Jewellers assocation (cJa) are working together to promote vitality and security within the canadian jewellery industry. learn more about the products and services we’ve created for your business. • Insurance policies catered to your business and customers

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J e w e l e r s M u t u a l i s e x c l u s i v e ly e n d o r s e d b y t h e c a n a d i a n J e w e l l e r s a s s o c i at i o n a n d e n c o u r a g e s p a r t i c i p at i o n i n t h e J e w e l e r s b o a r d o f t r a d e . l e a r n w h y y o u s h o u l d J o i n J b t at w w w. J e w e l e r s b o a r d . c o M .

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1. XXL Blackout – a Smart Luxury statement of enigmatic power

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upscale refinement, the new Sport Class XXL Blackout adopts this elegant black sheen - a must-have for lovers of avant-garde design.

3. How fast can your customers find you online?

Like all Gc watches, the Sport Class XXL Blackout meets the exacting criteria

Successful retailers know the importance of an online presence, and offering a

of a Swiss Made timepiece and is equipped with a high precision Swiss

vast selection of inventory for online shoppers is key. Polygon’s Virtual Inventory

Made movement, in this case a quartz chronograph with a 30-minutes and

products allow you to instantly boost your online inventory of diamonds, coloured

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write 140 on the Free Info Card on page 96. 4. Importex 2. With Love from Stuller

Importex founded in 1967 has one of the largest selection of diamonds

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1. XL-S Glam – A unique design combination of diamonds and ceramics

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In this exceptional Gc timepiece, the sensual nature of the ceramic material offering a lightness and perfect comfort to the wrist is heightened


by the ergonomic design of the bracelet and case for additional pleasure

Express your love to that special individual with ELLE Jewelry’s own

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“Enrapture” Collection. This collection features hearts interlocked creating

and the ceramic material used is also highlighted by the use of coated

a bond to represent the strength of one’s love. This collection includes

mineral crystal on the steel bezel, enhanced in the diamond execution

matching bracelets and earrings, each piece adorned with a beautiful red

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carat weight of 0.324 carats. For more information, write 144 on the Free 4. Rembrandt Charms

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Rembrandt Charms offers displays specially designed to maximize your charm 2. Imperial color Diamonds

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Imperial Color Diamonds provides an impressive selection of fine jewellery

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displays are available: wall panels, freestanding towers and countertop

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fancy color diamonds (all certified G.I.A) Our high volume allows to be

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Show Silver. Sell Gold. • Use sterling silver as samples for special order karat gold charms. • Sterling charms offer great price points and bring repeat charm collectors. • Sterling silver has never been hotter!

Charms available in Sterling Silver, Gold Plate, 10k Yellow, 14k Yellow & 14k White Gold.

Call 800.387.5238 or contact us via email or fax for free information on: • Business building charm programs • DVD on cultivating customers • Retailer marketing support Ask about our marketing programs.


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2 3

5 4

1. Best Bargain

Suggested retail: Rings $229, Earrings $229 and Necklace $249. For more

Multi-colour sapphires are all the rage. Coupled with luscious South Sea

information, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

Pearls, this necklace is a stunner. Handmade in 14kt Gold and set with seven yellowish-cream South Sea pearls this necklace can be worn long or

4. Meteor Cut®

doubled as a choker. Retail value $1400. For more information, write 148 on

Never before has there been a diamond that appears whiter than its true color.

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The ten sided Meteor Cut® diamond, developed with flawless symmetry, has 71 well placed facets. Radiating dazzling brilliance and an endless refraction

2. Ready Mounts Inc.

of light, the Meteor Cut® is recognizable at first glance. Meteor Cut® - the

At Ready Mounts we are focusing on offering a variety of products and

perfect 10. For more information, write 151 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

services to help save you time and money. We offer full CAD services, including milling and growing of waxes. Also currently stocking bracelet

5. swiss made watches

mounts in classic styles, as well as ring mounts, semi-mounts and finished

Altanus watches distinguish themselves for their personality, which

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expresses a clear love for the details, the preciosity of materials, and still more, for the constant research of a strong and innovative design. The


Altanus Revolution is an example from a firm founded in the past that turns

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its dynamic and creative look perseveringly to the future. See the Altanus full

rings, earrings and necklaces in rhodium plated sterling silver, set with cu-

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bic zirconia, onyx, white Agate and reconstructed red Coral from Di Donna.

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CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

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Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:

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THE BEST DAYS 9:15 AM | Time to repair that cocktail ring Mrs. Holloway brought in. I’m so thankful I have that benchtop welder I bought at the last Expo—no more removing the stones!

11:08 AM | The castings came in from that subcontractor I met at Expo. Once again, they’re perfect. Ever since Expo, I never get stressed when I send out work—talk about peace of mind!

1:38 PM | Another order for that new line of bi-metal bands—sales are through the roof! That Expo seminar on new metals was the best 90 minutes I ever spent.

4:12 PM | Went online to register for the 2012 Expo. Can’t wait to see what I can find. (I have my eye on that new laser engraving system I’ve heard so much about…)

MJSA Expo NY is the largest and oldest trade show dedicated to professional excellence in jewelry making and design. March 11-13, 2012 • Hilton New York To register, go to

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starwatch starwatch

Golden Girls George Clooney’s new girlfriend, actress and former wrestler Stacy Keibler, was by his side for the premiere of his film, The Ides of March, at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences





Balalaika Collection of 18k white and yellow gold ring with diamonds and morganite topaz ($3,487) and from the same collection, an 18k white and yellow gold bracelet with diamonds, smoky quartz, morganite topaz and citrine ($9,449).

Nicole Richie, always a fashion trendsetter, chose Neil Lane’s stack of three diamond and gold ball bangles to accent her slim wrists for the 21st Annual Environmental Media Awards. They showcased diamond pavé balls set with rose cuts made in 18k gold, signed by Lane himself.

The diamonds ranged from .2 to 1.91 ct

($21,000 to $24,000 each).


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Bijouterie / Je wellery

Reverse colours available on all rings.

Specializing in:

Two-Tone or Plain, Comfort Fit or Regular Wedding Bands in 10K, 14K, 18K, and Platinum.

Catalogue available on request. Almost 100 new models added.

Head Office: 1117 Ste-Catherine O., Suite 418, Montreal, Quebec

H3B 1H9

Tel: (514) 845-0066 • Fax: (514) 845-3697 Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065 • Quebec, contact Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235

Manitoba, contact Rube Helman Toll Free: 1 800 665-3314

Ontario, Alberta, British Columbia contact Vahan Mele, Marcel Dumontet Tel: (647) 284-5067 (514) 865-7235

Visit our website for more selections: GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE • GUARANTEED PROMPT SERVICE For details, write #116 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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Managing Director at Turnberry Advisors to join the Zale Corp team, Haubenstricker spent 24 years at Electronic Data Systems in a variety of roles. Theo Killion, Chief Executive Officer of Zale Corp. says, “Tom’s financial expertise should prove invaluable.” Barbara Ryan

Kevin Reilly

Reilly goes Platinum Kevin Reilly has been promoted to Director of Business Development at Platinum Guild International. “I am delighted to announce Kevin’s promotion which reflects his long service and outstanding contribution to PGI and our partners,“ said Huw Daniel, president of PGI-USA. Prior to joining PGI, he served as VP of Sales and Marketing at Tache USA and as Director of Customer Relations and New Business Development at Lazare Kaplan.

Stronger diamonds Israel Diamond Exchange welcomes Brigadier General Moti Besser as its new Managing Director. Known for his extensive experience in the diamond industry, Besser was invited to join the organization by IDE President Yair Sahar, who says Besser “will no doubt make an important contribution to strengthening the Israeli diamond industry.” The Israel Diamond Exchange has 3,000 members and plays a large role in the Israeli economy. Prior to his role at IDE, Besser served as Managing Director of the State Comptroller’s Office and was Managing Director of the Israel Diamond Manufacturers Association from 2002 to 2007.

Blue Nile restructures Following the resignation of Diane Irvine, Blue Nile announced General Manager, Vijay Talwar as the new interim CEO. Prior to his new role, Talwar served in a variety of positions including head of the William J. Clinton Foundation in India, Starbucks, Nike, and Bain and Company. Irvine resigned as CEO after 12 years, following a Wall Street report and company announcement of decreased profits. Net income dropped over 30 per cent from last year. Despite the drop in profit, Talwar is predicting the “biggest holiday season in the history of Blue Nile.”

George Daniels

Financial whiz joins Zale Zale Corp. has a new Senior Vice President and Chief Financial Officer. Thomas A. Haubenstricker has taken on the role of VP and CFO at the corporation. Haubenstricker will be reporting to the company’s Chief Administrative Officer, Matt Appel. Zale Corp. is pleased Haubenstricker has joined the company, saying his strong background in accounting, business and finance will be a strong contribution. “Tom is the most recent example of the talented, experienced senior executives we have added to the business.” Prior to leaving his position as


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Farewell to a royal watchmaker Famous Watchmaker George Daniels died on Oct. 21. Daniels is most famous for his invention of the co-axial escapement, used by OMEGA in its watches. Queen Elizabeth II named the 85-year-old Commander of the British Empire (CBE) in 2010. The well-known watchmaker, who wrote a seminal book called Watchmaking, was one of the first modern-day watchmakers to create a watch by hand. OMEGA says Daniels will be missed and never forgotten for his work in the world of watchmaking


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Behind every “Wow,” there’s a great jeweller. And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller. Custom design doesn’t have to be complicated. Perhaps you prefer a traditional do-it-yourself approach. Or maybe you’re a CAD designer looking for a manufacturer. Either way Stuller has you covered. When you need metals, gems, components, or even CAM services, just call our Toronto sales center at 866-815-5511 or visit Everything you need to get started on your next award-winning design. That’s the beauty of it all.

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news | trends | events Liz Taylor’s collection on tour The legendary Elizabeth Taylor’s dazzling collection of jewels was featured on an international tour before being auctioned in December. The tour, hosted by Christie’s auctioneers, is expected to have generated $30 million, with a portion of the proceeds going to the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation. Among the collection of sapphires and rubies, is the famous 33.19 ct white diamond ring from 1968. The breathtaking piece was sold for a record $8.8 million. According to Marc Porter, Christie’s American chairman, Taylor decided a few years ago that she wanted to auction off her collection allowing “someone else to enjoy them.” The four-day auction, which was held in New York from December 13-16, and expected to raise $20 million, ended up raking in a staggering $116 million. As well, some parts of her jewellery collection were sold via a special online-only sale. The two-week online sale ran concurrently with the live auctions. This marks the first time that the famed auction house hosted an exclusively online

addition to a private collection. Christie’s selected more than 500 fine and costume jewellery pieces for the online-only sale, including exceptional Art Deco-era jewellery and an array of signed jewels by Cartier, Chanel, Christian Dior and Ruser, among others.

Jewellery stores come first A recent survey by MVI Marketing’s Jewelry Opinion Council reveals jewellery stores are the place of preference for consumers to sell their unwanted gold. Heading down to a local jewellery store to trade in unwanted gold may be simpler for consumers, providing instant cash in comparison to waiting for one-day events to approach. The survey showed 60 per cent preferred to sell to a local store while the minority of 10 per cent sold unwanted gold at one-day events. It may be worth the wait as 69 per percent of panelists stated one-day events paid the most cash for unwanted jewellery. Local jewellers were not far behind in price match with both options providing satisfactory to high

levels of customer service. Consumers tend to be wary of online offers due to the possibility of scams, and 35 per cent of panelists were not too keen on television offers.

J.C Penney marries Liz Claiborne J.C. Penney now holds world rights to the famous Liz Claiborne line. The company has also bought the U.S. rights for the jewellery line Monet. The total purchase cost of both brands equals $267.5 million. J.C. Penney plans to be the official retailer of the Monet brand, which will be available at its stores come August 2012. Ron Johnson, former Apple store chief, now leads J.C. Penney as head retailer. Johnson currently has no plans to make any changes to the Liz Claiborne design team. According to a Nashville, Tennessee analyst, Robin Murchison, J.C Penney will benefit from holding world rights to the line “because they won’t have to pay licensing fees anymore.” The Liz Claiborne line was created in 1976 to provide tasteful fashion for working women.

Gold hurts?

Dennis Gartman


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The slow recovery of gold prices continues to display a negative sign for the metal’s value. Economist Dennis Gartman says, “Very real damage is being done to the gold market.” Gartman warns that hedge funds, margin selling and possible bank liquidations could all contribute to a further decline in the already damaged market. Gold prices have been enduring a slow recovery since after prices climbed to US $1,900 an ounce in late summer. Not everybody shares a gloomy vision of the gold market, though. AngloGold Ashanti Chief Executive Mark Cutifani told a business forum that he could “easily” see the metal reaching $2,200 an ounce in the next two years. In fact, gold demand has reached US $57.7 billion, resulting in 1,053.9 tonnes. The third quarter increase is up six per cent from the year before. The Q3 2011 report from World Gold Council’s Gold Demand Trends showed investment demand increased by 33 per cent in the past year and demand for Chinese jewellery rose 13 per cent. Marcus Grubb, Managing Director, Investment at the World Gold Council, says, “The long-term fundamentals for gold remain strong with a diverse and growing demand base coupled with constrained supplyside activity.

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Stuller Inc. to distribute Royal Asscher Cut sapphires Stuller has announced that it will be the exclusive distributor of the patented Royal Asscher® Cut sapphire. “We are excited to be partnering with Stuller,” says Royal Asscher President, Lita Asscher. “With Stuller being the largest North American jewellery distributor and having a significant global presence, it’s a perfect fit. We’re also thrilled that our sapphires will be available to even more retailers around the world.” Stuller will serve as the primary distributor of the loose sapphires, carrying them in blue, lavender, pink and yellow, both natural and heat-treated. “This partnership with Royal Asscher further demonstrates Stuller’s commitment to bringing our customers the very best selection,” says Stuller Founder and Chairman, Matt Stuller. “And with the growing demand for sapphires, we look forward to providing this unique option just in time for the holiday season.”

Sun-Drop breaks a world record The 110.03 ct. Sun-Drop, fancy vivid yellow diamond sold for $12.4 million in Geneva on Nov.

Royal Asscher Cut sapphires

15th, at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels Auction. The diamond, discovered in South Africa in 2010, set a world price record. The pear-shaped, Vivid Yellow was the previous record-setter, selling for $6.5 million at Christie’s auction in October. Both buyers remain anonymous.

Naughty and nice holidays A slow recovery from the U.S. economy has companies expecting only a small gain in holiday sales compared to that of 2010. Deloitte, a consulting firm, states that holiday sales are expected to increase by a maximum of three per cent. That’s only a small gain compared to the 5.9 per cent increase from the year before. Online, catalogue and television sales are expected to have the highest increase of nearly 14 per cent. The International Council of Shopping Centers and ShopperTrak have similar predictions to Deloitte’s, ranging from an increase of three to 3.5 per cent. On the other hand, high-income shoppers are expected to spend seven per cent more on holiday gifts this year than in 2010. The annual Survey of Affluence and Wealth in America suggests that consumers with an income of $250,000 and above will buy less and spend more while those in the $100,000 to $250,000 mark will spend 17 per cent less. Incomes below $100,000 will spend 28 per cent less than the year before. Women like their jewellery, as the surveys suggest, with 36 per cent of wives requesting it as their gift of choice – positive note for jewellers as the holidays quickly approach.

Happy faces at Harry Winston U.S. sales are strong for Harry Winston Diamond Corporation. The co-owner of the Diavik mine in Canada says the first two months of the quarter


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have prevailed as jewellery sales continue to increase. The overall polished diamond prices have seen a 10 per cent decrease since July, following a 25 per cent overall yearly increase, with rough diamonds seeing a climb of near 50 per cent. Some rough diamond sales are being delayed until the fourth quarter as “the unstable market seeks bargains,” according to chairman and CEO Robert Gannicott.

Luxury suits China and India A past decision made by luxury brands to move into the Chinese market leaves room for sales to grow as the recession approaches. High-profile brands such as LVMH, Burberry and Hugo Boss are aware of the current high demand for brand-savvy buyers. At the recent World Retail Congress in Berlin, Jean Christophe Babin, CEO of watchmaker Tag Heuer stated, “Luxury brands have done a great job of learning from the last crisis.” Luxury is becoming a necessity as big-name brands are making it more accessible for buyers. In India, luxury sales are expected to expand by 20 per cent annually until 2015, according to a new report. Luxury sales were slow to take off in India a decade ago, disappointing retailers who thought it was the next China. Now, Indian consumers, brand-lovers, “are quickly catching up with global trends,” according to Neelesh Hundekari, head of Indian luxury retail at consultancy AT Kearney. The same goes for the Middle East. Luxury buyers have shown no signs of tightening their purse strings despite the possibility of a second financial crisis, analysts told Arabian Business. Upscale brands have continued to report strong regional sales amid a global economic slowdown, as wealthy consumers drive a surge in demand.

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Luxury brands welcome e-commerce Luxury brands are increasing the use of e-commerce according to a new study from PM Digital, an online marketing agency. Of 42 luxury brands, 81 per cent are offering online sale of merchandise, trafficking 98 per cent of viewers. Only two per cent of online traffic was generated through luxury brand websites not offering e-commerce. The average age of luxury brand Web shoppers is 34 and younger. Although search engines and social media sites are responsible for generating a large percentage of online traffic, they fall second to TV and media campaigns.

Ashton bets on Abboud A U.S. division of Gitanjali, Ashton Luxury Group has acquired exclusive license and distribution rights to the Joseph Abboud jewellery line. The new line, “Joseph Abboud by REVV” will be designed by the brand’s creative team and distributed throughout North America. While an international launch of the line is planned for 2013 and 2014, the new venture’s retail sales are estimated to hit the $140 million mark in the next five years.

Managing Director of Ritchies Auctioneers. Sales generated more than $5 million. Khan says he hopes the diamond sale will bring more luxury jewellery auctions to Canada.

Ulysse Nardin conquers Mexico Ulysse Nardin received the Premio Especial Tempo de Relojes for its sleek watch, the Freak Diavolo, which introduced silicon 10 years ago. The Freak Diavolo was the winning luxury watch among 46 other brands throughout the three-day event, which took place at the Museum of Modern Art of Mexico City. It was the fifth edition of the Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR), the Tiempo de Relojes 2011. The Freak was the first of its kind to bring silicon into the watchmaking world, making its mark as a revolutionary timepiece. The watch received its name for its sleek appearance along with red and black accents MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 portraying a devil-like image.6:09 PM Page 1

Chinese warehouses on top China’s leading online retailers are paying topdollar for warehouse rental space as online sales are expected to triple in the next year. This year alone, rent costs have already seen a five per cent increase. Web retailers are calling it a “vicious cycle” as online sales and the need for distribution space increase. In 2010, online sales in China reached 80 billion yuan, with 485 million Internet users. An HSBC Holdings plc report from August revealed that by next year, consumers in China will be responsible for the world’s largest share of luxury spending.

50 ct diamond flops in Canada The 50 ct diamond, estimated to be worth $10 million, sold for $2.7 million at Toronto’s Royal Ontario Museum auction on November 12. The diamond created a new record for Canada as the previous record diamond sold for $2 million. The ROM auction is the largest in Canada to date according to Kashif Khan,

MCD Pearl Imports A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery 27 Queen St. E, Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6 T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368-2426 Email

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A fantasy bra

Movado is all about Better Men

Although the annual Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is always a visually appealing exhibition of beautiful models and lingerie, the real star of the show this year was the Fantasy Treasure bra, worth an immense $2.5 million. Top Victoria Secret model Miranda Kerr had the honour of strutting down the catwalk in the stunning piece created by London’s Jewelers and featuring 142 ct of diamonds. Embellished with pearls, citrines and aquamarine, the bra was – not surprisingly – also accompanied by its own personal security guard.

Movado was the exclusive presenting sponsor of the 2011 GQ’s, in partnership with The Gentlemen’s Fund, Better Men Better World Self Initiative. The event, which celebrates everyday people who have made heroic and selfless contributions, was held on October 26, in New York City. Jake Wood, of Team Rubicon, was announced winner of this year’s initiative for his mission in Haiti. Recognition was also given to four other finalists for their achievements. Mary Leach, Chief Marketing Officer, Movado Group Inc. says Movado is “thrilled to partner with GQ again.”

Social media drives online sales The new wave of social media has consumers virtually shopping from the comfort of their own home. Bloggers and social media sites are expected to increase the sales for online luxury brands by 20 per cent (11 billion euro) come 2015. The rise of social media has every second consumer asking Facebook and Twitter for buying advice according to the Digital Luxury Experience from Altagamma Observatory in Milan. The survey showed that consumers from China, the U.S. and Europe are highly influenced by fashion blogs, with a preference to shop online. Social media provides virtual buyers with an in-depth experience where they are able to communicate and obtain information through sites such as Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Fantasy Treasure bra

Agassi and Longines team up The Andre Agassi Foundation for Education along with presenting sponsor, Longines, raised a record-breaking $26.1 million at the 16th Grand Slam for Children benefit concert. The event was held on October 29 at Wynn Hotel, Las Vegas. Featured artists included Michael Bublé, Jimmy Kimmel, Train, Gladys Knight, Smokey Robinson, Martina McBride, Signature Group and Jeff Ross. With funds helping to provide West Las Vegas students with a free tuition public school, the Andre Agassi College Preparatory Academy, Agassi says he is both “astounded and humbled by the generosity and compassion” of those involved in the event.






































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Charming additions Pandora recently added two stores to better serve its Toronto customers: one is located at the Sherway Gardens shopping centre while the latest location was opened at the Holt Renfrew Centre.

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fortherecord Hollywood loves Hamilton

Citizen Watch’s Eric Senftleben, Kevin Kaye (President), Tara Bon with Toronto Maple Leafs Captain Dion Phaneuf

Citizen and Dion Phaneuf are “unstoppable” Last month, the Bay welcomed Dion Phaneuf, Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs, to its Toronto Queen Street store to promote Citizen Eco-Drive watches. Citizen chose the All-Star Phaneuf for its Eco-Drive “Unstoppable” campaign because he’s a perfect fit. After all, he’s a world-class, unstoppable athlete who’s been celebrated as the NHL’s hardest hitter and a rookie of the month. Phaneuf ’s fans were delighted when he signed autographs for them and drew the names of lucky winners to receive signed Toronto Maple Leafs memorabilia. As for the Eco-Drive watches, they really are as unstoppable as great athletes; they convert light into stored energy to power the watch for at least six months, even in the dark. They’re fueled by light, never need a battery and are stylish and sustainable.

Hamilton hosted the 5th annual Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards on November 7 in Los Angeles, paying tribute to the talented off-screen heroes who contribute to movie-making success. Walking the red carpet, looking fabulously fashionable, were presenters and guests, including Harrison Ford, Antonio Banderas with wife Melanie Griffith, The Help’s Viola Davis, Mad Men’s Jon Hamm, and JJ Abrams, among others. Banderas presented the award to producer Agustín Almodóvar for his current film, The Skin I Live In. Toronto native Saum Khashaei was also honoured by Hamilton. Khashaei’s winning short film was first screened at the Toronto premiere of Abduction on September 22. Attending the recently reopened Toronto International Film School, Khashaei competed against 50 other students and came in among the final three contenders. They each received $1,000 and one special item. As Khashaei explained, “I got chosen to come to Los Angeles for the event – oh, and I also got this watch.” The young filmmaker proudly displayed a large, black round-faced watch from Hamilton’s Khaki collection. [CJ]

Japan jewellery sales up Two of the leading jewellery retailer chains in Japan are reporting a remarkable surge in jewellery sales over recent months. In that sense, 4 Degree C reports a 20 per cent year-on-year increase in its sales in August/September of 18k gold rings and necklaces. Meanwhile, Star Jewelry reports a 15 per cent rise in the sales of diamond set jewellery. The Japan Association for Department Stores also reported, for the fourth consecutive month, a rise in jewellery sales by its members. Experts attribute the sales rebound of jewellery to Japanese consumers’ growing affinity to personal items that have a lasting value after the tsunami, as well as an increase in the number of engagements and weddings across the country. The 23rd International Jewellery Tokyo (IJT 2012), Japan’s largest jewellery trade show, offers the perfect venue to take advantage of this opportunity. The show takes place from Wednesday, January 11 to Saturday, January 14. There are 1,350 companies exhibiting from around the world, meeting with an anticipated 38,000 buyers.


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Clockwise from top left: Antonio Banderas, Pedro Almodovar and Harrison Ford; Jon Hamm; Chris Weitz with Guest; JJ Abrams, Michael Bay and Jon Favreau

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Getting started with


ocial Media It’s a great way to connect with your customers and hear what they have to say

Aileen Bennett is an award-winning speaker and author who rents out her brain to businesses to help them with customer service, corporate culture and communication. She curates a popular blog about ideas at


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Social media isn’t going away any time soon. In fact, it’s becoming even more popular, and therefore needs to be an important part of your marketing and PR strategy.


rom the outside, Facebook or Twitter can seem like an endless, mindless conversation that will drain your time and energy into the black hole of the Internet. It’s like standing outside Central Station in New York City, trying to work out where everyone is going. In that situation, the best thing to do is go inside and figure out where you want to go.

setting it up, that’s as far as it should go; if you let them post messages for you, you are putting your customer service in their hands. There is no point in customers interacting with your business online if you aren’t aware of this when they come into the store. A two-way exchange of ideas and news

In deciding which social media sites to use, the answer to the question of where to go is always “wherever your customers are.” It’s much easier to find people and join them than to stand on your own, waving dramatically and hoping they will join you. Join all the sites

First, join every site you hear about, including the most popular sites today: Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn. This will ensure you have a consistent username across all the platforms you choose to use. There are even sites such as that will reserve your name for you on hundreds of sites. Start with your existing customers

Your best customers on social media are your existing customers. It’s a way to stay in touch with them on a less formal basis, to be part of their social network and make a connection with them. We may all use digital devices a lot these days, and yet our human need for connection hasn’t changed. Remember this, and you won’t go wrong. Most of you will find your customers on Facebook, and those who have a younger customer base will find more people on Twitter. Those who operate on a business-to-business basis may add LinkedIn to their marketing plan. The best way to find out which sites your customers are using is simply to ask them. When you interact with customers, find out what social networks they use. Invite them to connect. Offer them first news of sales, promotions and new inventory. It might be tempting to get your nephew or the geeky teenaged daughter of a friend to run your social media. While they may be helpful in

Marketing through social media is different than through traditional media. It’s a conversation, a two-way exchange with your customer, rather than a one-way sales pitch or a series of messages. You know you are doing the right thing for your business when you get a response. You are looking for interaction, for people to comment, like, share, re-tweet and generally respond to what you are putting out there. When they do, it means they like what you are saying. The great news about social media is that, at its best, it is based on people being genuine and building connections and relationships with customers —the same way you have built your business and customer base since you started. The connection isn’t new, just the media you use to do it. Social media is the new village hall. It’s where people talk about births, engagements, weddings and celebrations of all kinds. All that’s different now is that the village is bigger, and online. Get creative and share photos and videos

When you think about sharing, don’t just think about words. Photos are easily shareable, and so is video. Next time your friendly parcel carrier arrives with a big package for you, video your excitement and share it online. Take photos of newly engaged couples (with their permission) and share them on your wall. Capture those moments that show who you really are as a store, and let the world see them. The biggest barrier between you and potential customers is the doors of your business. Social media can go a long way to breaking down that barrier and connecting you to your customers in their own homes. They get to see what you do and how you do it. They feel like they know you, and they begin to trust you. And that’s a great start for any relationship. [CJ]

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Gazing At You Cat’s eye gems are a fun and fascinating phenomenon By Duncan Parker

These days, closed-circuit cameras peer at us from everywhere. We’re used to being watched by cameras and people. Even some jewellery looks back at us with beautiful eyes. Fun and fascinating, gems with eyes are called “cat’s eye” gems. They have a bright line of reflected light running in one direction across the stone, and they look at us as we look at them. All gemstones are phenomenal, but some are more “phenomenal” than others. The cat’s eye is a “phenomenon” found in certain gems. In strict gemological terms, a phenomenon is one of a group of gem properties defined in the 1974 Sixth Edition of Robert Shipley Jr.’s Dictionary of Gems and Gemology as “…an optical effect in visible light occurring in certain but not all specimens of a species. See adularescence; asterism; chatoyancy; fluorescence (in ultraviolet light); girasol; labradorescence; orient; play of colour; schiller.” Although this dry dictionary definition doesn’t make cat’s eyes sound exciting, they can actually make a gem very interesting, indeed. For instance, the phenomenon referred to as “chatoyancy” is the “cat’s eye” that draws our attention. The word “chatoyancy” comes from the French word for cat: “chat” (not to be confused with the English word for casual conversation). Light reflections

though the name referred to cat’s eye chrysoberyl. This has a golden yellow to green colour, and in a good specimen will have a sharp eye—like a good diamond grader. There are dozens of other cat’s eye gems that you could also look at (and that could look at you). Many factors contribute to the value of a cat’s eye—some of which are the same as for other gems: colour, for example. Some are entirely the opposite of what is expected: the presence of inclusions, in this case. Clarity

The clarity of any gem will contribute to its value. The less there is to see in a gem, the better. Cat’s eyes, however, must have the parallel needle-like or tube-like inclusions that are the cause of the eye. Cat’s eye gems aren’t completely transparent, although in the finest specimens, the gem should have a degree of translucency, and transmit light. Ideally, the inclusions should be distributed uniformly, so the gem should not look patchy or zoned due to the inclusions. Some cat’s eye gems have a high degree of translucency, and others really don’t. Cat’s eye nephrite jade is usually semi-translucent, while cat’s eye quartz is often nearly transparent. One material that really is too soft to use as a gem but is very fun is ulexite. It is almost opaque in one direction, and transparent in another, behaving somewhat like a fibre optic transmitter.

The effect of a cat’s eye looking back at you is caused by light reflecting off the surface of a gem with linear inclusions all running in a single direction. These inclusions may be tubes, hollow spaces, needle-like inclusions or mineral inclusions. A cat’s eye might be narrow and sharp, or broad and fuzzy. Its brightness and sharpness depend on the inclusions causing the phenomenon, and on the shape and cut of the gem. Faceted gems cannot show a cat’s eye; the gem needs to be a cabochon or bead, with a polished, rounded surface. Different kinds of cat’s eyes

If you read 1940’s detective novels set in mysterious, faraway places, the hero may be searching for the precious, missing “cat’s eye.” In modern gemology we like to name our gems, and calling something a “cat’s eye” is only half the story. Traditionally a “cat’s eye” that you might have found in a Hong Kong or Tokyo jeweller’s showcase was simply called a “cat’s eye,”


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Glass cat’s eye hexagonal fibre bundles

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The colour of most gems is important. Strong colour, neither too dark nor too light, is, on average, best. The presence of colour (with the exception of most diamonds) is usually very important. Pale colours, dark colours, black, grey and white or colourless are all likely to diminish the value of almost any gem.

brown, or in rare cases, greenish blue colour. Tiger eye is opaque, and is formed from wavy fibres, sometimes showing more than one parallel eye in a single gem. It’s widely available, very modestly priced and also available dyed into red, blue or green colours. Even more modestly priced is cat’s eye glass, sometimes called “catsite.” This is often a grey material that has a really sharp, straight, wellformed cat’s eye, and is actually formed from parallel fibre optic glass fibres. Gemologically, this glass is interesting because looking from the side of the cabochon or bead, you can usually see hexagonal or square bundles of the glass fibres fused together.

The colour of a cat’s eye works the same way. Bright colour makes any gem prettier, and this applies to cat’s eyes as much as any gem. Bright primary colours, red, yellow, blue (plus green) are pretty, but also rare in all gems. Yellow comes first in cat’s eyes, with golden chrysoberyl being the most famous species. There are, however, some interesting cat’s eye gems in most other colours. Tourmaline is found in colourless, black, and pretty much all colours. Cat’s eye tourmaline is found, most attractively, in pinks and reds, and also blue and green colours and others. The eye in tourmaline is usually a broad band, caused by hollow tubes in the gem.

Chrysoberyl cat’s eye milk and honey appearance

Apatite is an interesting, though soft, gem found in green and yellow cat’s eyes. Beryl, the parent mineral of emerald and aquamarine, can produce some very attractive blue to bluegreen aquamarine cat’s eyes, as well.

Chrysoberyl cat’s eyes

A rare combination

One cat’s eye that does seem to have it all is alexandrite cat’s eye. These gems, famously from Russia, more frequently come from India and Brazil. Cat’s eye alexandrite has a cat’s eye, usually quite sharp, and also a degree of colourchange, usually blue in daylight, and purple in incandescent light. The combination of these two phenomena makes cat’s eye alexandrite very rare. In a fine specimen, it is the most costly cat’s eye gem on the market. Though you won’t likely have busloads of customers arriving at your door asking for cat’s eyes, you can certainly have some fun with these gems. Having a few looking at the customers while the customers look at them is a great way to start a conversation about interesting gems.

Some gems have less than interesting colour: sillimanite or fibrolite cat’s eyes, for example, are often greyish in colour, usually with a very fine, sharp and well defined cat’s eye. I guess you can’t have it all. Eye of the tiger

A really inexpensive gem that shows a cat’s eye is tiger eye, a type of quartz. It’s a golden, golden

Tiger eye cat’s eye

Who knows—an alexandrite cat’s eye could be just what the customer who has everything really needs. [CJ]

Gems that show a cat’s eye































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Polygon Report: polygoncjreport

Diamond Supply & Demand

Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in November 2011. .


Polygon’s diamond database is one of the largest in the jewellery industry with over 300,000 line items and an estimated wholesale value of over $3 billion dollars.


Most Popular: Carat

Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing I loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a fourweek period in November 2011.

Most Popular: Cut

<0.30 .30-.37 .38-.45 .46-.49 .50-.69 .70-.79 .80-.89 .90-.99 1.00-1.25 1.26-1.49 1.50-1.99 2.00-2.99 3.00-3.99 4.00-4.99 5.00-5.99 >=6.00

1.61% 1.73% 2.05% 1.01% 7.59% 6.93% 3.91% 5.13% 22.01% 6.82% 14.44% 15.77% 5.59% 2.12% 1.57% 1.69%

2.95% 6.79% 5.73% 1.50% 13.48% 9.69% 2.85% 5.60% 24.75% 3.60% 9.42% 8.25% 2.97% 1.13% 0.81% 0.48%

Most Popular: Clarity

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat Asscher Baguette Cushion Emerald Half Moon Heart Marquise Old European Old Miner Oval Pear Princess Radiant Round Trapezoid Triangular

$2,126.47 $1,911.37 $7,686.67 $1,900.85 $2,467.54 $3,626.18 $3,233.45 $3,482.75 $4,519.32 $5,510.46 $6,356.18 $8,037.04 $13,204.76 $14,449.32 $17,850.57 $22,105.86

1.29% 0.06% 7.46% 3.82% 0.03% 0.65% 2.73% 0.59% 0.08% 3.44% 2.27% 14.46% 2.84% 59.67% 0.09% 0.51%

1.28% 0.17% 6.24% 4.48% 0.34% 1.37% 3.81% 0.36% 0.07% 3.62% 11.51% 4.87% 5.15% 55.47% 0.33% 0.75%

Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat

$6,116.28 $2,143.12 $5,482.19 $5,039.63 $1,987.85 $3,787.38 $2,965.03 $3,441.69 $3,026.40 $12,758.45 $3,304.42 $7,038.68 $5,183.68 $5,008.84 $2,144.40 $2,253.49


2.58% 2.18% 3.85% 5.13% 11.80% 19.06% 26.62% 18.95% 2.54% 5.28% 0.87% 0.13%

3.30% 0.01% 6.07% 8.31% 16.69% 19.63% 19.76% 17.75% 3.97% 4.51% 0.79% 0.12%

$8,291.43 $22,464.33 $5,544.68 $5,546.47 $5,470.78 $5,040.11 $22,330.67 $3,677.39 $2,409.54 $2,256.22 $1,660.61 $728.44

Most Popular: Overall

Most Popular: Colour Demand Supply Shortage/ Avg. Price (%) (%) Surplus per Carat





Demand (%)

Supply (%)

Avg. Price per Carat

Shortage/ Surplus

SI1 1.00-1.25 $5,435.42 3.35% Round G 0.39% SI1 1.50-1.99 $7,275.72 G 2.25% Round 0.20% SI1 2.00-2.99 $9,212.61 G 2.17% Round 0.17% SI1 0.50-0.69 $2,317.30 G 1.10% Round 0.21% SI1 0.70-0.79 $3,132.35 G 1.09% Round 0.19% SI1 1.26-1.49 0.99% $6,026.82 Round G 0.06% SI1 1.00-1.25 0.95% $3,101.48 Princess G 0.05% SI1 0.90-0.99 $4,286.50 0.79% Round G 0.10% SI1 3.00-3.99 $10,521.69 0.66% Round H 0.05% SI1 0.80-0.89 $3,560.42 0.66% Round G 0.05% SI1 1.50-1.99 $5.033.09 0.54% Princess G 0.02% SI1 2.00-2.99 $7,272.38 0.45% G Cushion 0.03% SI1 1.50-1.99 $5,338.49 0.42% G Cushion 0.04% SI1 2.00-2.99 $5,286.15 0.40% H Princess 0.01% SI1 1.00-1.25 $3,364.87 0.38% Cushion G 0.10% SI1 0.38-0.45 $1,555.46 0.35% H Round 0.05% SI1 0.50-0.69 $1,693.66 0.32% G Princess 0.02% The Diamond Price report is provided by Polygon for theRound benefit of the trade and provides key information to jewelry professionals VS2decision-making 4.00-4.99 $17,822.91 0.31% H 0.02% dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond SI1 <0.30 $862.10 0.31% Round H 0.01% database, as of the date shown. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may lower. 0.31% This matrix counts of SI1 0.30-0.37 $1,416.11 Round H be somewhat 0.05% SI3 as I1 for purposes

D E F G H I J K+

8.79% 10.34% 15.70% 21.28% 19.91% 12.48% 6.43% 5.08%

10.97% 13.85% 15.29% 16.20% 13.98% 10.43% 6.35% 7.92%

$5,176.44 $4,644.05 $4,954.31 $4,974.82 $4,664.01 $4,313.98 $3,885.88 $2,329.59

computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information.

PRICING The Diamond Prices report is provided by Polygon for the benfit of the trade and provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond database, as of November 1st, 2011. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information is the most active online community and trading network for jewellery professionals.


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Trusted by thousands of members in over 34 countries, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewellery 1/3 Polygon CARAT (0.30 - 0.49)members gain invaluable knowledge and find unique trading 1/2 CARAT (0.50 -that 0.69) professionals. Since 1984, has helped opportunities have significantly impacted VVSIgrowth VVS2 VS1 VS2Members SI1 benefit SI2 fromI1best-in-class professional IF socialVVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 online SI1 selection SI2 of estate I1 the yearIFover year of their business. network tools and the largest pieces, high end3198 watches, jewellery, loose2193 diamonds, The high of the4576 membership the active D 3901 2893 2581 1783coloured 1592 stones, 1244pearls, coinsDand more. 7947 6012calibre 5048 4151 and 3397 2581participation 1765 ofE some3223 of the brightest minds in the industry have made our community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. 2944 2675 2387 2050 1698 1497 1183 E 5966 5069 4693 4256 3714 3073 2417 1581 F G H I J K

3069 2744 2538 2278 2189 1828

2735 2537 2452 2210 2053 1764

2449 2403 2268 2034 1807 1497

2242 2186 2014 1730 1713 1434

1958 1917 1853 1633 1490 1313

1638 1475 1138 F 5222 4791 4332 4150 3547 2807 2354 1519 1627 1442 1087 G 5079 4480 4220 3758 3169 2582 2096 1427 1556 1357 1020 H 4510 4252 3830 3248 2925 2369 1936 1371 1476 1274 946 I 3921 3591 3224 2811 2545 2041 1807 1353 1-800-221-4435 | | 1270 1190 852 J 3087 2884 2537 2387 2108 1780 1703 1299 Stones ∙ Watches ∙ Gold2245 & Precious Metals 1742 ∙ Coins ∙ Estate and more! 1180 Jewellery 1021 ∙ Diamonds 702 ∙ Coloured K 2670 ∙ Pearls 2458 1852 1627Pieces 1510 1128

Find out how you can be part of one of the most exclusive groups of jewellery professionals.




10187 8130 7510 6668 5948 4973 3726 2919

VVSI 7475 6937 6641 5811 5392 4442 3501 2885

3/4 CARAT (0.70 - 0.89) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 6718 6200 5819 5491 4752 4263 3376 2598

6041 5803 5604 4911 4425 3834 2979 2291

5578 5178 4810 4493 4016 3611 2816 2109

4523 4229 4175 3800 3560 3002 2468 1932



3824 3572 3373 3250 2962 2545 2177 1667

2205 2135 2051 1975 1959 1866 1700 1427



1 CARAT (1.00 - 1.49) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1



25607 17798 14953 12023 10206 8344 6847 5792

18131 15585 12656 10936 9644 7832 6508 5666

15786 12820 10758 12809 10938 9326 10619 10111 8601 10118 8429 7776 8465 7584 6962 7003 6463 6151 6186 5611 5352 5130 4721 4564

6493 6186 5823 5568 5321 4849 4352 3615

3571 3430 3069 3022 2908 2726 2507 2244



2 CARAT (2.00 - 2.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1



49184 33918 28810 23553 18414 14731 11387 9946

37671 30652 26762 21359 16959 13726 10686 9622

32984 27827 23375 18728 15975 13452 10597 9193

26747 22960 20227 16294 14454 11417 9196 8010

20707 17414 17152 14444 12185 10387 8441 7520

7845 7026 6932 6576 6158 5516 4726 4029

15272 11099 13655 10301 12948 10162 11809 9595 10831 9082 9380 8228 7811 6954 6854 5926

5495 4876 4383 4163 4099 4008 3931 3528


31579 22395 19220 15439 12786 10511 9074 6788


9/10 CARAT (0.90 - 0.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2

14427 11963 10232 12291 10414 8813 10887 9591 7881 9066 8228 6723 7779 6971 6329 6692 5937 5387 5345 4938 4563 3978 3883 3603



99838 62430 54333 41356 30560 24233 18270 14427


8325 7433 7114 6356 5689 5010 4157 3138

6883 6654 6349 5680 5366 4513 3621 3011




6120 5700 5568 5034 4759 4160 3446 2658

5160 4838 4691 4342 4097 3645 3069 2292

2888 2817 2738 2510 2377 2304 2172 1802

1 1/2 CARAT (1.50 - 1.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1

23774 20063 17013 13897 12139 10208 8197 6452

VVSI 69425 61339 48880 39179 29098 21629 16905 14134

20580 17132 15036 12861 10940 9532 7946 6304

17570 15247 13471 11778 9946 8546 7210 5962

14594 11051 13061 10144 11756 9883 10608 9149 9311 8315 7897 7001 6534 5949 5512 4911

3 CARAT (3.00 - 3.99) VVS2 VS1 VS2 54685 49606 40524 33962 26725 20820 16775 13995

48490 39622 34252 29588 24148 18419 14984 12581

37114 31973 29020 23403 19213 15600 13028 11217



8538 8197 7785 7145 6666 5964 5098 4401

4533 3994 3534 3491 3425 3220 2706 2531



24155 19941 19244 17163 14137 11936 10299 9117

16399 14973 13977 12814 11826 10367 9172 7980

I1 8643 6246 5982 5234 4787 4684 4499 4314

Trusted by thousands of members, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewelry professionals. Over 2,800 members benefit from best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection of estate pieces, high end watches, jewelry, loose diamonds, colored stones,

w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m pearls, coins and more. The high caliber of members on the network and the active participation of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon's

community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. Call 1-800-221-4435 or email for more information.

The total asking price of the listings in Polygon’s diamond database is more than $3 billion. Stones are listed for sale by more than 700 dealers from around the world. All transactions are conducted privately between buyer and seller. Polygon doesn't make any representations whatsoever with respect to these indicators. Listings and prices on Polygon change hourly, and there can be no assurance that a buyer will be able to locate any specific stone at a specific price.

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Polygon Featured Member Meet Jeffrey and Katrina Hess. created a limited collection exclusively for Hess Fine Arts. As a Graduate Gemologist, Katrina Hess brings many years of experience and expertise in gemstones and other jewels. Members of Polygon since 1987, the Hess’ say that Polygon has allowed them to “earn a PhD in jewellery.” Here is one of their stories.

“The Bluff that Backfired” Tampa/St. Pete has one of the most cutthroat jewellery markets in the state, and the competition between stores is ferocious. A few months ago, a local, well-heeled businessman was shopping for a large diamond: five carat, emerald cut, internally flawless. He went to one of my competitors who was able to find him a stone at a reasonable price. In fact, the jeweller was so sure no one could beat it that he challenged the guy. "If I were you I'd shop around," said the jeweller. "Go to some other stores. See if you can find this good of a stone at this kind of price. I guarantee you won't be able to." Unfortunately for the jeweller, the guy accepted the challenge. He visited a lot of stores without much luck. Then he came here. Most jewellers would have a hard time filling that call on the spot. Not us. We have Poly-Power. I put the request out on Polygon and found the right stone in a few minutes. It was a better price, and we made the sale. The guy's now a regular customer.

Jeffrey and Katrina Hess know a thing or two about running a successful jewellery business. Since 1984, Hess Estate Jewelers has traded in expensive estate jewellery, large diamonds and signed pieces, as well as fine art, antiques, silver and diamonds. The Hess’ also dedicate a portion of their business to online trading; Hess Fine Art is engaged in the online purchase and sale of fine watches, both retail and wholesale. And it doesn’t stop there. The couple also own and operate two luxury jewellery stores. Old Northeast Jewelers, located in St-Petersburg, Florida, specialize in diamonds and fine watches. They are authorized dealers for Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, Ball, Glashutte Original, Bucherer, Romaine Gerome, Tag Heuer, Muhle Glashutte and many other brands. Jeffrey Hess is a renowned expert on high-end quality timepieces and vintage watches. He is the author of The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches, An Unauthorized History, and he has earned his place as a cornerstone in the luxury chronograph market. In recognition of this, Mühle Glashütte

That kind of thing happens all the time when you're on Polygon. And it's not just loose stones. Whatever new products or styles are hot in the jewellery industry, you find out about them first on Polygon — because of the information channels. Plus you get the merchandise in your store, on memo, before anyone else in town is even aware of the new trend. Another huge advantage — I never have to talk to sales people anymore. Ever. Who has time for sales people these days? Everything I need, I get right over Poly: faster and for less money. Honestly I don't know how it's possible to stay alive in the jewellery business these days without Polygon. The power of this thing's incredible! We have nine employees, and there's a Poly terminal on the desk of every one of them. Since I got on the network in the late 80's, our firm's retail jewellery business has increased ten-fold. Probably more. Why? Because anytime someone really does shop around, Poly-power ensures that I'm the one who makes the sale. Visit: /

1-800-221-4435 | | Jewellery ∙ Diamonds ∙ Coloured Stones ∙ Watches ∙ Pearls ∙ Gold & Precious Metals ∙ Coins ∙ Estate Pieces and more!

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Š 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.


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12/15/11 12:21:39 PM




Dmitry Kaplan stays ahead of the game and opens a unique second location of GemOro in Edmonton



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| DECEMBER 2011 • January 2012



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mitry Kaplan likes to stay focused on the future, instead of the past. That approach has served him really well. His store, one that started with only 600 sq ft, has expanded to two grand locations, a 3,000 sq ft one at the West Edmonton Mall and a stunning new 2,400 sq ft. one downtown. Still, every story has a beginning. His began in 1980, when he and his family arrived in Canada from the former Soviet Union. Dmitry’s father, who had operated a large department store back home had extensive experience in retail, which he applied to a few different projects until he found his new home in the jewellery industry. The results were encouraging. “To be honest with you, most of the things that my dad touches turn out to be a success,” explains Kaplan.

catchy, almost viral. I also travelled with my parents to some of the shows throughout the years.”

As for himself, the passion for jewellery started at a young age. “As a kid, I knew I had to help my parents. On the other hand, who doesn’t like all the ‘bling’ and all the watches? I saw my dad travel to jewellery shows and there was always a certain kind of glamour involved. It is almost

The business was doing well, even though he admits that, coming from Europe, they had a different taste from the one that was prevalent in Canada at the time. Since then, it seems our country has been catching up with outside trends. “I believe it has to do in part with people coming from


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In spite of all the trade shows he was attending, Kaplan remembers one in particular. He was sent to Toronto to spend a few days at the JCK show and that was certainly an eyeopener for him. After graduating from the University of Alberta, he joined the family business.

12/15/11 10:10:24 AM


different societies and cultures, bringing their own tastes and ultimately influencing the Canadian market,” explains Kaplan. Then, 20 years ago, the Kaplan family decided to change its profile to target a more high-end consumer, a direction that caused many eyebrows to raise. “I remember when we started bringing all kinds of high-end jewellery and brands, one of our good friends, a supplier, said we were crazy, that we would never make it since we were going the opposite way of those who had success stories to tell,” he says. Kaplan has a perfect explanation of why they switched gears and ventured into (at least then) unexplored territory: “Doing business the way everybody else was doing it just wasn’t working for us; it did not give us any pleasure or satisfaction, or make us feel proud of what we were doing at the end of the day.” Luckily, they followed their instincts. “We stuck to our goals and took our business where we wanted to take it,” he recalls. “It was a lot of difficult work, but I guess as long as you are committed and passionate about where you are going and what your goals are, people will understand, respect and appreciate it and come back to you because of it.” Interestingly enough, many retailers and manufacturers have recently chosen to focus on the high-end market. “I think that direction is not only applicable to jewellery but to almost every industry in North America or perhaps the rest of the world as well,” Kaplan points out. “The middle class seems to be disappearing in the political and economical spheres and it seems the wealthier are getting wealthier and the poor are getting poorer. Being in business, you have to offer the right things or else you will have a lot of empty days in your store.” The transition was not an easy one and obviously didn’t happen overnight. As Kaplan describes it, “it was a difficult path, it was hard to break in. You have to introduce yourself and make people believe in you. It’s not just introducing yourself to suppliers and manufacturers but also to your new customers, while holding on to the old ones because you don’t want to lose them along the way.”

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The landscape is certainly different these days. It was hard to impose fastforward trends back in the 80s, when you had to travel from Edmonton to New York just to buy a Gucci watch. “Today any kind of product is available anywhere and even if it isn’t, it can be with a phone call. Everybody knows what’s going on and more people are travelling these days,” says Kaplan. That, of course, has all kinds of consequences. “Because people are more and more exposed to products, they also started realizing the difference in quality and prices.” The fact that consumers know their products well also makes them demand more from retailers. In that respect, Kaplan says that “continuing education plays a big role in maintaining a high level of service and satisfaction, as well as consumer confidence. We emphasize that by arranging regular training days for our staff, when they learn about our brands and visit manufacturers. This educates them and allows them to truly translate the image and excitement back to the consumer. As for GemOro, the new realities have meant, for instance, that nowadays 60 to 70 per cent of their business is related to watches, not jewellery. “As you get into higher-end products, branding plays a very important role,” explains Kaplan. “Jewellery manufacturers have had a much harder time in terms of branding, compared to the watch industry. I think there is a lot of jewellery out there and there are so many suppliers that make it so readily available. You know, demand and supply is still your basic principle in economics. If you want to brand something higher end you have to limit supply. This is something that jewellery manufacturers have had a much more difficult time with, compared to the watch industry.” “On a watch, for example, you can always put a brand name on its dial, that is a big part on the recognition of the brand. When it comes to jewellery, you cannot write on top of a diamond or ruby. You can put it on the inside


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of the band, but people can’t see it there. Whereas if you are wearing a Rolex or a Cartier watch, it can be seen and people will ask, ‘Is that a Rolex watch you are wearing’”? Currently GemOro carries brands such as Rolex, Omega, Cartier, Tag Heuer, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ulysse Nardin, Baume & Mercier and many more. The online experience has had an evident impact on the jewellery industry (as well as on many others), not only because consumers now have instant access to discount retailers, they can also easily compare prices. Although he admits there will always be bargain hunters, Kaplan believes there are other ways to stay relevant and thrive in today’s online-heavy market: “At the end of the day, people still appreciate good service and having someone to talk to. You have to be able to maintain that level of satisfaction and

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service with the customer, because it is not just about having that watch or jewellery, it is about having that relationship to maintain your jewellery afterwards. It’s easy to go to the Caribbean or the Internet and buy a $10,000 watch. However, eventually you will need someone to service that watch or jewellery. Whether it’s resizing a ring or doing an overhaul of a watch’s movement, there is much more than just the initial purchase.” That quality of service certainly played a key role in GemOro’s success, one that prompted Kaplan to open a second location in downtown Edmonton. The new store has been garnering all sorts of compliments and it’s clear why. Among its many features, it boasts the fact that it doesn’t have any straight angles and avoids square shapes altogether. A Rolex boutique – the first of others to come – adds to the wow factor, as does a brand new watches and jewellery gallery. The store has opened partially – to serve its loyal holiday shoppers – and is expected to be completed within the next few weeks. “I really think that it is a beautiful store, simply gorgeous, and I am really proud of it. Without putting my nose up in the air, I truly think that it raises the bar in the industry,” adds Kaplan.

Always looking forward, Kaplan ponders if his children will eventually take over and continue the work his father started. The answer is: very likely. “I have three children, two sons and a younger daughter. One of my sons – who’s 13 years old – actually expressed interest in coming in for one of the training sessions we provide, and I can see that he is busy taking notes and listening very attentively. However, I do not push them one way or another. When we go on vacation my other son is always in every jewellery store, collecting catalogues. By the time he is finished collecting them they are heavier than he is!” With two stores, a staff of 17, and a reputation based on decades of good service, Kaplan realizes his path has diverted from the original one and that the “goldsmith” title that appears right beside his company’s name might remain there more as an homage to his first steps in the industry than as a reflection of where he is now. “We still have a certified appraiser, we do goldsmithing, but it is a very small part of our business and we do it mostly for our customers,” he says. Instead of reminiscing about past goals and accomplishments, Kaplan prefers to focus on what’s coming next. The future, at least for GemOro, seems bright. [CJ]

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12/20/11 9:28:24 AM

Paint it


White The consumer love affair with white metal jewellery looks like it’s here to stay By E. Z. Guler-Tuck

Over the last decade, demand for white metals— from wedding bands to premium watches, and everything in between—has swept through the jewellery sector. And it’s not just celebrities who are opting for metals such as platinum and white gold over traditional yellow gold.

18k white gold chandelier drop-style earrings with omega backs, prong and pavé set with eight pear-shaped diamonds, 38 marquise cut diamonds, 14 round, brilliant cut diamonds and 300 round brilliant cut diamonds, from Nova


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To counter the trend, last spring the World Gold Council launched a rebranding campaign that would put yellow gold back into position as first choice for jewellers, with the tagline “glow with gold.” Whether the campaign will help reinvent this old-school metal’s slightly tarnished image is hard to say, since white metal has already been termed, by some jewellers as, “the metal of the 21st century.”

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Pandora LovePods stackable rings with 18k white gold and pavé set diamonds 14k White Gold White Mother-ofPearl Bracelets with Diamond Accents

So, is it the end of an era, or just a trend that’s bound to fade away? Constant market ups and downs for gold and the rise of white metals seem to be leading to a more permanent change in the precious metals market. This is despite the fact that the safety and reliability of gold as an investment for consumers has not faltered, regardless of market fluctuation. Even as gold prices rise and fall, countries such as India and China continue to get caught up in the gold rush. Still, the rate at which white metals such as platinum and palladium are gaining popularity over gold is nothing to sneeze at—especially when it comes to jewellery. “At least 80 per cent of our sales are white, with 18k and 19k palladiumalloyed gold gaining strength,” says Rose Taylor of Taylor’s Jewellers. “Bridal, watches and pretty much all pieces are white in colour.”

Pink becoming popular

While the demand for gold has seen a turn from yellow to white, other golds have been making their way into the spotlight, as well. Alanna Van Rijk, Diamond & Watch Specialist at Van Rijk Estate Jewellers, points out that “pink gold has become more popular this year for women and men. White gold is still the top favourite, but people say that yellow will be coming back.” White metal is functional and malleable; that’s why many jewellers seek white metal that is both castable and polishable, with good flow characteristics and low grades of porosity. “The advantage of using white metals is the flexibility you have with more design options,” explains Grace Ng, VP of Sales for PAJ Canada & ELLE Jewelry and Time Canada. “Due to the gold pricing, most pieces are small and dainty, whereas with the white metals, you can still have the look, or include more fashion designs, at a fraction of the price of gold.”

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Earrings with 30 Rough Diamonds totaling 27.08cts set in 18k White Gold with Micro Pave Diamond Accents

The white side of gold

White gold is still the tried and true metal of choice for all types of jewellery, from engagement rings to wedding bands, and is perfectly matched with semi-precious to precious stones. “The difference between white and yellow gold is that white gold shows off diamonds and coloured stones better than yellow gold,” says Alanna Van Rijk. “It also makes the stones look whiter, whereas when you place diamonds beside the yellow, you can start to see the yellow hue.” Moreover, while white gold used to be the colour of choice for younger consumers, especially younger brides-to-be, jewellers are now finding its appeal is extending to all age groups. The silver bullet

The surge of savvy “cashmen” promising to dole out cash for silver, in addition to gold and jewellery, in TV ads may or may not be an indication of how far this white metal has come in recent years. However, the rise of silver prices might just be that telltale sign. Silver has gone from being an inexpensive alternative to gold to a significant commodity on the exchange market. Most recently, silver has inched its way into position as a suitable and chic alternative to yellow and white golds. “Retailers have continuously communicated the heightened consumer demand for rhodium plated, plain sterling silver, as well as sterling silver with CZ and diamonds,” says Grace Ng. “The increasing price of fashion jewellery has also encouraged consumers to invest their money in sterling silver.” Ng also suggests that for those who still prefer the gold colour, they have options of silver with gold plate.

Sterling silver “Escape” collection open ring, from ELLE

Going platinum

Platinum still drives most bridal jewellery; however, its steep price has started to dissuade some of today’s more pocketbook-conscious consumers. While consumers with more dollars to spend on precious metals and stones have started putting their trust, and dollars, into this fine metal, it still isn’t the popular choice for the mainstream. “Platinum, although cheaper in price per ounce, is heavier and therefore still costs more,” notes Rose Taylor. Playing with palladium

Most jewellers are familiar with palladium, as this metal is most commonly used as an alloy, mixed with white gold. With the rising prices of other metals, many consumers have started to consider palladium as a top-notch alternative to gold. “When I am making custom work, I’m getting asked for palladium and platinum quotes, as [customers] hear that gold is so much higher… so the advertising [for palladium] is having an effect on people,” says Anne-Marie Warburton of Gallery Gemma in Alton, Ontario. “This encourages me to want to make more pieces for Croco Pattern inventory in palladium and platinum, as well.” Diamond Ring in 18k White Gold


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Titanium is considered the strongest metal in the world. In fact, in the durability department, nothing tops titanium, as it is three times stronger than gold, silver or platinum. Yet it is still surprisingly light. What makes this metal so appropriate for jewellery design is its 100 per cent hypoallergenic properties; its higher resistance to dents, scratches and bending, compared to the three metals just mentioned; and its versatility in colour. “We brought in a line of men’s jewellery—Edward Mirell—in titanium and black titanium, and it has been a huge hit in men’s rings,” says AnneMarie Warburton. “The price points are great, the pieces are very light to wear and the men like the wear-and-tear features of titanium. Titanium, for example, is so affordable. Now, I cannot work in titanium, as this requires specialized equipment; however, given the response we have had, I will continue to carry it and expand on the items. It is a bit grey for women’s jewellery, in my opinion.”

“Ceramic is another way that white has been introduced into our store,” says Anne-Marie Warburton. “We have white ceramic watches and they sell very well because they are ceramic that can be worn year-round. Also, because there is more white in the stores now, the opposite is also true: more black is selling, like the black titanium and black ceramic, black rhodium on diamond rings in 18k gold, blackened/oxidized sterling silver, since it makes diamonds and yellow gold pop.” Jewellers and retailers across the country over the last decade have caught on to the fact that their inventories must remain stocked with a manageable supply of white metals (and ceramics). As long as the infatuation with white continues—in every shape, form and alloy combination—steady traffic will continue to flow into stores and boutiques in the coming years. [CJ]

Mike Sapir, Partner at Nova Diamonds and Mirage Creations, says that for 2012, it seems the trends are dictating that, at the very least “for men’s [jewellery]…the most coveted metals will be titanium and gold.” Whether women’s tastes fall in line with the affordability and durability of this heavy metal remains to be seen.

Stervling silver “Gateway” collection Loveknot pendant, from ELLE

Stainless steel

Some high-end jewellers may cringe at the thought of stainless steel jewellery, since it is more often used in fashion jewellery than in fine jewellery design. The pendants, bracelets and necklaces of the stainless steel variety tend to attract younger folks just starting to make jewellery purchases; however, more recently, “stainless steel…has been a common alternative for men’s jewellery,” say Grace Ng. Tungsten carbide

Tungsten carbide, or “tungsten” for short, is a metal favoured for men’s engagement rings, since it is durable, extremely scratch resistant and can be permanently polished. Tungsten is one of the heavier metals, and therefore is not preferred by fine jewellers who specialize in more delicate, detailed designs. It is said that tungsten rings are 10 times harder than 18k gold. When it comes to price, while platinum plays to the top end of the market, tungsten definitely takes its place in the lower end. Ceramic: the new white

White metal is not the only type of material to be a strong contender in the jewellery market.


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Naissance d’une mine d’or Le projet Éléonore : une mine d’or parmi les plus riches au Canada


a minière Goldcorp a finalement reçu le feu vert de toutes les instances publiques pour débuter l’exploitation du projet Éléonore.

Découvert en 2004 par la compagnie d’exploration Virginia, le gisement Roberto, situé à 300 kilomètres au nord de Matagami, fut racheté par Goldcorp en 2006. À la suite de son grand programme d’exploration, les ressources estimées du site sont évaluées à plus de neuf millions d’onces d’or. Pour les responsables de l’entreprise, cette estimation est conservatrice et d’autres découvertes dans le futur pourraient facilement augmenter le potentiel aurifère d’Éléonore. Après avoir passé les étapes de consultations publiques, une avancée majeure est réalisée par la compagnie en février 2011, avec l’annonce de la


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signature d’une entente avec la communauté crie de Wemindji, située à 200 kilomètres du projet Éléonore. Le projet, situé dans le Nord-du-Québec sur le territoire de la communauté, prévoit entre autres des redevances financières et l’embauche d’employés cris. Par cette entente, Goldcorp s’engage à respecter un critère essentiel pour la communauté de Wemindji, soit de protéger la rivière Opinaca. Lorsque le conseil d’administration de Goldcorp a choisi d’aller de l’avant, ce n’est pas en faisant des économies de bouts de chandelles. Pour la construction de la mine, un montant à investir de 1,4 millard $ a été prévu par les responsables. Une des forces du projet est la proximité du projet Eastmain 1-A d’Hydro-Québec, qui permet à la compagnie de bénéficier de l’électricité à un tarif raisonnable.


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For details, write #135 on Free Info Page, page 88.


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Au total, il est prévu que 600 000 onces d’or par année seront exploitées, pour une durée de vie d’environ quinze ans. Les coûts de production seraient en dessous de 400 $ par once. Pour la construction de la mine, plus de 400 travailleurs étaient déjà sur le site à l’automne 2011, dont plus de la moitié sont originaires de l’Abitibi-Témiscamingue. Dès mai 2012, ce chiff re grimpera à 600 travailleurs. D’ici là, beaucoup reste à faire par la compagnie afin qu’elle puisse respecter son échéancier initial, soit de couler la première once d’or au courant du dernier trimestre de 2014. Dès l’obtention de toutes les autorisations et certificats, la construction du puits de production et de la station électrique de 120 000 volts commencera. La construction d’une route permanente d’une soixantaine de kilomètres est également au sommet des priorités. Pendant que ce projet se concrétise, la compagnie a dû opter pour le transport des matériaux avec des barges. AUTRES PROJETS DANS L’ACTUALITÉ

La mine de l’Abitibi-Témiscamingue qui a le plus fait parler d’elle au cours des dernières semaines, c’est Goldex, d’Agnico Eagle, qui a choisi de stopper son exploitation, car elle ne pouvait garantir la sécurité de ses travailleurs en raison d’une infi ltration d’eau à travers les parois de la mine souterraine et d’un risque d’effondrement. La décision a touché 233 employés et une


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centaine de contractuels. Avec cette décision, Agnico Eagle a laissé sous terre l’équivalent d’un million d’onces d’or qui pourraient être récupérées dans le futur si cela peut se faire de façon sécuritaire. La minière est en train d’évaluer ses options, dont l’exploitation de zones aurifères connexes à Goldex. La Corporation Royal Nickel voit grand avec son projet Dumont, situé à Launay, à une vingtaine de kilomètres d’Amos. La compagnie veut exploiter un gisement de nickel à ciel ouvert, si possible, dès 2015. L’étude de préfaisabilité laisse entrevoir un potentiel de 96 millions de nickel exploité en moyenne durant les 19 années d’opération du projet Dumont. La compagnie mène actuellement des travaux techniques et veut compléter son étude de faisabilité pour obtenir les permis pour la fin 2013. En bout de ligne, il y a longtemps que l’Abitibi-Témiscamingue a pu bénéficier d’une manne économique si importante pour mener son développement aussi loin. Que ce soit pour les compagnies minières, toutes encouragées par le prix élevé du métal jaune, ou les entreprises preneuses d’ordres, qui profitent de cette opportunité pour développer un savoir-faire et une expertise exportables à l’échelle internationale, l’effervescence est palpable. Toutefois, plus les projets se développent, plus les défis diff èrent. Déjà, la ressource la plus recherchée par plusieurs, c’est la main-d’œuvre. [CJ]


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Joaillerie :

L’ART DE LA Un regard authentique sur l’industrie Québecoise

Noam Carver est un sculpteur, designer et orfèvre dont les bijoux allient des motifs classiques et contemporains de partout au monde avec la majesté des ornements royaux. Ses conceptions ont mérité une multitude de prix.


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En tant que designer montréalais qui a été formé et a étudié au Québec, et continue à être influencé par une province dont la culture est inextricablement liée aux arts, j’ai le plaisir de contribuer au magazine Canadian Jeweller et de partager mes expériences, mon évolution et mes inspirations. Je me pencherai sur les multiples facettes de l’industrie de la bijouteriejoaillerie au Québec en relatant des exemples tirés de mes expériences au sein de celle-ci. En commençant avec les bases d’une formation initiale et d’un stage d’apprentissage, je poursuivrai avec le réseau des fournisseurs et des artisans, et je présenterai certains designers qui se démarquent au Québec et à l’échelle internationale. À CHACUN SON CHEMIN

La tradition de l’artisanat se porte bien au Québec, une province où le soutien des arts est une valeur bien ancrée. Il y a plusieurs options qui s’offrent à nous lorsque nous choisissons notre parcours professionnel. Il existe plusieurs écoles très reconnues qui offrent une multitude de spécialisations touchant le domaine de la joaillerie. Si vous souhaitez

poursuivre des études ou simplement acquérir de l’expérience dans le métier, l’option qui vous convient est à portée de la main. Une alternative aux études est un stage d’apprentissage, qui nécessite cependant des contacts dans l’industrie qui sont prêts à vous aider. L’expérience en têteà-tête a de grands avantages, mais est souvent moins structurée et ciblée qu’un programme académique. J’ai eu la possibilité d’accéder aux deux options, en suivant d’abord un stage et par la suite, en prenant des cours spécialisés dans une école de joaillerie pour parfaire mes connaissances. Une option n’est pas meilleure que l’autre, car chaque situation est unique et tout dépend du niveau d’engagement et de motivation de chacun. Un excellent joaillier se distingue par sa capacité d’appliquer les techniques apprises et de transformer les idées en projets concrets.

Cette exploration est un processus sans fin qui connait une constante évolution. En améliorant ses compétences, les obstacles techniques sont surmontés, laissant ainsi place à une créativité accrue. Nos limites sont testées tous les jours et notre détermination est constamment remise en question lors de notre quête du succès dans ce métier. Il y a toujours des connaissances à découvrir et chaque nouvelle idée mène à de nouveaux défis. La clé du succès est de ne jamais abandonner et de toujours chercher à se surpasser. Il faut résister à la tentation de se décourager face aux obstacles, car il y a espoir d’arriver au moment zen qui se produit lorsque le combat personnel est terminé et une nouvelle œuvre créée. Celle-ci a débuté dans l’imagination et est maintenant concrétisée; un processus de création édifiant et motivant pour chaque joaillier. Je perçois ce processus comme métaphore qui s’applique à tous les aspects de la vie. La réussite personnelle n’est jamais facilement atteinte. Nous avons tendance à nous concentrer sur le résultat plutôt que le processus qui nous y amène. Que ce soit au niveau professionnel ou interpersonnel, le résultat reflète l’effort fourni. Évoluer dans un milieu enrichissant et être exposé à une culture qui valorise les arts est un

atout. Au Québec, il n’est pas difficile de trouver un moyen d’accéder à une profession ou à un métier. De plus, c’est un environnement où l’on retrouve non seulement talent, mais également compétition. C’est donc à chacun de relever le défi. Il existe trois grandes écoles de joaillerie au Québec, dont l’École des métiers du Sud-Ouest-de-Montréal, l’École de joaillerie de Montréal et l’École de joaillerie de Québec. Les deux dernières offrent des cours d’initiation destinés au grand public ainsi que des cours de perfectionnement pour les artisans. Les trois écoles offrent des programmes complets de deux ans équivalents au diplôme d’études collégiales. Je vous encourage fortement à consulter les programmes et choisir celui qui vous convient. [CJ]

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2011 Excellence In Design Winners By Norma Meneguzzi-Spall

1. DIAMONDS • WINNER Karin Bunzeit Stittgen Fine Jewelry, Vancouver


“Enchanted Garden” Diamond Ring This handmade filigree ring showcases a 1.02 ct cognac diamond set in an “enchanted garden” of 19k white gold and diamond pavé rails along with an 18k yellow gold filigree centre, dotted with diamond accents. Total carat weight of diamond and pavé accents is 0.70. 2. DIAMONDS • SECOND PLACE WINNER Terry & Julia George The Golden Tulip, St. John’s

Diamond Drop Earrings with Neo-Classical Flair Featuring four different cuts of diamonds – pear, briolette, round and oval – to optimize reflected light from all angles, these dramatic, hand-crafted diamond drop earrings in 18k white gold have neo-classical flair. Total carat weight is 5.24


3. DIAMONDS • THIRD PLACE WINNER Shelly Purdy Shelly Purdy Studio, Toronto

Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring Inspired by the Royal Wedding and the Imperial State Crown with its Maltese Cross and blue sapphires, this 14k white gold diamond engagement ring showcases a 1.01 ct marquise diamond with 0.10 ct blue sapphire accents on each side.



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1. PEARLS • WINNER Michael daCosta Fortunes Fine Jewellery, Toronto

Dramatic South Sea Pearl and Diamond Drop Earrings A pair of South Sea cultured pearls dangles at the end of a single looping strand of 18k white gold set with 1.26 ctw of diamonds. While simplistically elegant, the mirror imaging of these earrings made the design technically challenging.


2. PEARLS • SECOND PLACE WINNER Iouri Jiliaev Jiliaev Jewellery Collection, Vancouver


“Scorpion” Pearl Ring A fascination with scorpions led to this bold yet fluid handmade ring which showcases a golden South Sea pearl set in in 18k yellow and 19k white gold. A row of rubies, 1.03 cts, and black diamonds, 0.60 cts, create a dramatic tri-colour effect. 3. PEARLS • THIRD PLACE WINNER Anto Partamian Mava Style, Laval, Quebec

Ultra-Contemporary Pearl and Sterling Silver Cocktail Ring This handcrafted sleek and airy sterling silver cocktail ring has bolts of 14k yellow gold flashing two white and two black pearls atop silver wires which have been braided or knotted.


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1. PLATINUM • WINNER Noam Carver Montreal

Men’s Domed Platinum Ring A band of carved quartz and onyx centre stone makes a powerful and bold statement in this platinum men’s ring with 18k yellow gold accents.


2. PLATINUM • SECOND PLACE WINNER Lisanne Skeoch Lisanne Skeoch Jewellery, Toronto

Pure Platinum Elegance A 1.03 ct princess-cut bezel-set diamond sits elegantly atop a platinum engagement ring. Encircling the sides of the raised bevelled setting are 20 x 0.01 ct diamonds. Two matching platinum wedding bands containing 40 x 0x.01 cts diamonds in each flank the engagement ring. 3. PLATINUM • THIRD PLACE WINNER Thierry Belisha Crown Ring, Montreal

Platinum and Diamond Wedding Band – Fusion of Art & Architecture Architecture meets art in this platinum and diamond wedding band that fuses numerous elements together including multi-layered segments and over 100 diamonds. Every detail has been precisely calibrated utilizing cuttingedge technology.




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1. COLOURED GEMSTONES • WINNER Llyn L. Strelau Jewels By Design, Calgary

“Silent Comes The Night” Collar Neckpiece Hammered-finish plaques of black onyx are interspersed with textured 19k white gold dividers for a dramatic statement in evening jewellery. 2. COLOURED GEMSTONES • SECOND PLACE WINNER Michael DaCosta Fortunes Fine Jewellery, Toronto

Kunzite and Diamond Cocktail Ring A 27.26 ct. oval kunzite provides a feminine touch to the sharp yet light-filled asymmetrical lines of this 18k white gold mount which is accented by round brilliant cut diamonds totalling 1.30 cts.





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“Eau de Nil” Aquamarine Middle-Finger Ring A 26.23 ct. aquamarine cabochon creates a watery effect in this 14k white gold middlefinger ring that is accented with 0.70 cts of round brilliant diamonds and two yellow sapphire cabochons.

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aims to be “above all” The super-luxury brand is becoming coveted for its craftsmanship and stunning designs BY BONNIE SIEGLER


rowing up a sports competitor and winning world championships instilled an edge in a young Ramin Mesgarlou. “My motto was and still is: if it exists, make it better; if it doesn’t exist, create it,” he says today. In 2005, Mesgarlou, CEO and Founder of Global Wealth Trade (GWT), launched FERI, a jewellery line that included silver, hightech ceramic, tungsten and plangsten lines. Then came his 19k Bridal Signature collection. Soon his company perfected a 22-step manufacturing process with a 21k gold compound and flawless stones to create an exquisite line of jewellery called FERI MOSH. “FERI MOSH is in a category of its own; a design can sometimes take up to 12 weeks to produce one item,” Mesgarlou says. “We call it the world’s first prestige line.” Super-luxurious

All FERI MOSH rings are custom made and hand built in GWT design studios and labs. This gives them an exclusivity that Mesgarlou compares to that of the most luxurious cars in the world. “There are luxury cars like Bentley that would be the Harry Winston and Cartiers of the jewellery world,” he says. “Then you have the super-luxury Bugatti. That would be us.” The FERI MOSH ultra-lavish jewellery collection will have its formal launch in 2012. Still, Mesgarlou continues to have lofty goals for his jewellery brand. “In the next five to 10 years,” he says from his Toronto headquarters, “we’re putting multimillion dollar galleries in Hong Kong, Paris, Rome, London, New York, Dubai and Shanghai, with high-profile events in various key cities around the world.” Mesgarlou has reason to boast of his Canadian brand, which is sold globally through distributors instead of directly to the public. It is already making fashion headlines and showing up on celebrities. “I’ve been told by our company on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills that we are becoming a buzzword among designers,” he says.


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Left: Feri Mosh SP19, Majesta earrings; 19k gold, seamless micro pavé setting, premium grade diamonds and rare Colombian Emeralds. Below: Feri Mosh SP21, Empire ring; 21k white gold, micro pavé with black and white diamonds.

Stars love it

Gene Simmons, Shannon Tweed, Eric Roberts and Neve Campbell have all recently been spotted wearing FERI MOSH designs. The brand has also been featured in the pages of many upscale fashion magazines. Not content to sit on his laurels, Mesgarlou, who has a background in business and marketing, and is a native Persian, has launched luxury handbags and wallets, and extravagant sunglasses. And he plans to eventually produce high-end shoes. So in a sluggish economy, how has GWT succeeded beyond other similar companies? “When there is an economic crisis around the world, it means the middle class suffers,” Mesgarlou answers. “But studies show that during these times the number of rich people also increases (it has, in fact, tripled since 1993). I think people are now, more than ever, interested in investing in quality. Secondly, part of what makes us unique is our marketing niche and platform.” Have a plan

Mesgarlou acknowledges that it is a highly competitive market, although he adds, “Find a niche and go with it. Have a long-term vision and a good

plan. We don’t deal with the public; we only deal with stores. We have luxury consultants around the world, and they have distributorships to get access to our lines.” While Mesgarlou’s background includes family in the jewellery manufacturing business since 1882 and 21 years of personal marketing expertise, it was his decision to build the unique FERI MOSH platform in the profitable markets of fashion and jewellery. This has become a winning strategy, and so the FERI MOSH tagline, “Above All,” seems apt. [CJ]

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designerprofile | ClaudioPino

Infinity – 14k gold, 925 sterling silver, diamonds, ruby, moonstone kinetic ring

Art meets science Claudio Pino designs sculptural rings that reflect the wearer’s movements BY BONNIE SIEGLER


pon hearing that his young son wanted to study jewellery design, Claudio Pino’s father had these words of advice: “Do whatever you want to, but do it the best you can.”

Since that time, Pino has been working to transform raw materials into precious objects. Th rough discipline and perseverance, the transplanted Chilean who has lived in Montreal since 1986 credits his father and Canada for his success today. “In Canada, I was able to pursue my dream,” he says. Combining cold silver with the warmth of gold in his rings, Pino captures and combines the days and nights, suns and moons, and yin and yang of life’s connections. “I like to juxtapose hot and cold colours together, searching for balance and equilibrium in the jewellery designs. In many cultures, the combination of hot and cold elements is essential to creating the ideal sensory order, such as within the Barasana community of the Amazon,” he says.


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ClaudioPino | designerprofile

With a deep-rooted sense of jewellery craftsmanship, Pino has studied contemporary jewellery making, lapidary, gemology and mineralogy, and recently received an advanced training certificate in faceted gem cutting. Defining his designs as far as current fashion is concerned, the 40-something designer says, “My jewellery designs embody the desire to be unique, distinct and original.”

influenced by the details of my surroundings, my daily experiences and the environments in which I worked. I am fascinated by the fast pace of science and technology and nature’s ability to adapt to constant change. Plants respond to changing environments, and the human body has the extraordinary ability to survive in the harshest circumstances.

Pino’s first jewellery design was a ring named “Majestic,” made to honor his mother in 1994, while studying the jewellery process. “The shape of the ring was like a queen’s crown, with three black Tahitian pearls accompanied by a beautiful briolette-cut emerald in the middle,” he recalls. “The three pearls represented the day of her birthday, and the emerald is her birthstone.”

“I decided to design a ring that represents the unique sensation of weightlessness, by including a moonstone attached to the centre of a mechanism. This stone portrays a drop of water floating freely in space. All of my designs portray distinct systems in movement and reflect the integration of multiple cycles, such as the cycle of the mo0on, sun, ocean, life and the seasons—and the cycle of dreams and emotions.”

In 1999, Pino sold his first commercial pieces in the U.S. and France. “They were sculptural and kinetic, yet comfortable and wearable for special events,” he says. “My trademark was to be exclusive and eccentric. I started to design rings with tiny mechanisms that allowed the stones the freedom to follow the owner’s hand movements and remain facing up, like guardian angels watching over their owners.”

Keeping in mind that science and technology evolve at an increasingly rapid pace, Pino moves forward undaunted. “Recently, I started to design jewellery with 3D modelling software, which gives me a new dimension in which to explore my creative process,” he says. He has also branched out into earrings, necklaces, and bracelets, though rings are still his specialty.

The rings also mechanically follow body movements, reflecting them in many small, intricate ways. Because some of Pino’s clients were collecting his rings as sculptures, he created small, unique stands that enable the rings to be exhibited instead of remaining out of sight in boxes.

past and future

majestic mother

In spite of how contemporary his rings are, Pino is still very much inspired by designs from the past. “What makes jewellery powerful?” he asks. “Is it the interplay of shifting light or the shadow and depth created through the unique Top: Magnificence Stellaire – 14k black opal kinetic ring Middle: Mystical Flowering – 14k gold kinetic ring combination of matched metallic colours? Bottom: Vena Amoris – 14k gold, 925 sterling silver, Does the vintage surface recall memories and amethyst, fire opal, chrome diopside, pearls events? I have always been inspired by the AROUND THE WORLD Since 1999, Pino’s collections have been shown at numerous international ancient art of jewellery and, more specifically, the history of rings. I seek exhibitions throughout the world. In October, 2009, his ring “Infinities” a combination of physical attributes and sculptural portability, making received the Best In Show 2009 Steel Trophy award from the Metal the jewellery an extension of the body.” Arts Guild of Canada, reflecting his passion for science, nature and Next year, Pino will introduce his first collection of exclusive contemporary technology. rings made with the rare metal, platinum. “With this precious metal, I Pino explains that the ring, made from 14k gold, 925 silver, moonstone, intend to incorporate in my designs the exquisite properties and poetry diamonds and ruby, “…represents weightlessness. I have always been evoked by this luxurious and sensual metal,” he says. [CJ]

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| DECEMBER 2011 • January 2012



12/15/11 11:06:18 AM

companyprofile | CanadaPride

Canadian Selling high-quality Canadian diamonds is a passion for ERL’s Ronen Ziv BY LYNNE SHUTTLEWORTH


“We feel Canadian diamonds should not cost more than any other GIA diamond that is on the market,” he says. “You shouldn’t have to pay more to support the Canadian diamond industry, and we are working tirelessly every day to make sure our customers don’t have to.”

Ziv believes Canadian diamonds should be accessible to more people, especially to Canadians who wish to support our new national industry.

Mike Sachs, Vice President of marketing at ERL Diamonds, adds: “Since Canada has diamonds, there’s no reason we shouldn’t be one of the world leaders in diamond manufacturing and products.”

ince immigrating to Canada from Israel seven years ago, Ronen Ziv has become a patriotic Canadian. That’s ref lected in the name “Canada Pride,” which he chose for the Canadian diamond division of ERL Diamonds, his Vancouver-based diamond wholesale business.


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Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds Nova Diamonds Inc. 221 Victoria St. Lower Level Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4 Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666

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companyprofile | CanadaPride

(From left to right) Michael Sachs, Vice President; Suzie Morrison, Lead Sales Associate; Osnat Ziv, Senior Buyer; Ronen Ziv, President; Noy Ziv, Marketing Manager; Robin Ferris, Accounting Department Director

After all, people are interested in buying Canadian diamonds, as they come unencumbered by doubts about their origins . “There is a big demand for Canadian diamonds at this time, as they are also conflict-free diamonds,” Sachs says. “Because all of our Canadian diamonds are lasered with the Maple Leaf logo and the Canada pride certificate number, and since we’re an upstanding member of the Canadian Code of Conduct, our customers can feel comfortable with their Canadian diamond purchase. This provides them with the confidence that they are receiving a conflict-free diamond that was mined in Canada while following all of our nation’s employment standards.”

Ronen Ziv and Michael Sachs

service, selling the best quality products and following the best business practices. And, while the company has expanded to open an office in Calgary and an authorized dealership in Toronto, Sachs says, “We want to take our time to make these steps, and go at our own pace.” RELATIONSHIPS ARE PARAMOUNT

Success could also be attributed to the close relationships Ziv and his colleagues form with their clients, taking an interest in them as people, not just customers. “Our customers are like family, and we worry about them, and want to help them if they’re going through hard times,” Sachs says.


Selling Canadian diamonds made sense for Ziv. “Over the first couple of years, more of our customers began asking us about getting Canadian diamonds,” he says. “We had just gone through a growth period and knew that we also needed a niche aspect to our company, to differentiate us from other diamond wholesalers.”

Ziv says it comes naturally to him to treat customers so well. “It’s in my DNA! And when we interview for employees, we look for this X factor because we feel this quality is needed in our company. I want to surround myself with people who believe in what we are doing and how we are doing it.” WEATHERING THE STORM

ERL has been selling Before that, Ziv was That’s still a significant diamonds from all over

Canadian diamonds for about five years now. concentrating on selling imported diamonds. part of the business, with ERL carrying certified the world.

Ziv says he basically “fell into” the diamond business—and married into it as well. “My wife Osnat’s whole family is sprinkled throughout the industry, and when I received an offer from my close friend in Chicago to open an office in Vancouver... how could I say no? It was a new adventure that I was more than excited to embark on. I had to do schooling and learn the ins and outs of the business, but in this industry you have to learn or you cannot succeed.” ERL must be doing something right because 2011 was a record year for this company whose growth strategy depends on giving the best customer


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This positive philosophy should stand Canada Pride in good stead through any economy. “I have seen the business change a lot,” says Ziv “However, we, like many others, have adapted. With the rise of Blue Nile and the challenges they have caused for our clients, and by proxy ourselves, we have had to improve our way of doing business. Whether it be our customer service, our higher quality goods, our large supply of Canada Pride diamonds, or our easily accessible experts to assist with finding what you need... we feel that we are prepared to handle any future changes that may occur.” Furthermore, demand for diamonds is high. “There’s a strong belief that diamonds will become a very strong investment tool,” Sachs says “Diamonds fluctuate, and yet they are still an equity. People like to have equity they can hold, wear, touch, and feel.” [CJ]


12/15/11 2:49:02 PM

Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 168.

For details, write #126 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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8/29/1112:30:55 9:57:49PM AM 12/15/11


Networking helps police catch criminals By working together, we can increase the number of cases that are solved BY JOHN LAMONT, DIRECTOR OF CRIME PREVENTION, JVC

Nowadays, as well as using DNA to help solve crimes, police also use networking strategies. In the second of two columns, John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention, describes some of the hurdles good policing has to overcome to get the job done. JVC networks with police to assist them in getting past some of those hurdles. In fact, our work with police agencies across Canada has become the backbone of JVC’s Crime Prevention Program. JVC is trying to be part of the solution. Are you? – Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC)


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For Details, write #130 on Free Info Page, page 168 CJ_ad.indd 1 CJ_TheBullionMart REV.indd 1

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Police have always networked among themselves to a certain point, depending on the offence. For murders and serious indictable offences, they often seek assistance from other police agencies. Now they are making a giant move forward by starting to seek assistance from outside that inner circle. In particular, they are asking for help from networks in the private industry such as the Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) network, which stretches from coast to coast, as well as the Canadian Bankers Association and others. The JVC network has had great success in connecting criminals to crimes all across Canada. For example, a group of diamond distraction thieves in Ontario was connected to a diamond switch in Red Deer, Alberta. This is the type of crime police would not normally reach out to other police agencies about, due to the high volume of these types of occurrences. Now the industry can connect the dots for them. JVC has also been able to help police connect criminals to their crimes, via jewellery that police take from other crimes. Some police services have made it part of their investigation protocol to ask JVC for assistance with this. ROBBERY INVESTIGATORS SEMINAR

In May last year I attended a police robbery investigators seminar in Edmonton where I heard an excellent presentation by Det. Doug Bedford of the York Regional Police Holdup Squad about an investigation and arrest of eight members of an organized South American gang operation. It was clear he and his group of officers are very motivated, hard working and dedicated, and that they follow the motto: “You can’t win if you don’t try.” Their investigation involved surveillance, wiretaps, video and networking, with other police services as well as the jewellery industry itself. Th is included JVC, which was able to connect jewellery seized by Det. Bedford to a major break and enter of a jewellery retailer.


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“A number of people in this room wouldn’t be interested in getting involved in that type of case, because it’s too much work.” During the seminar, I was sitting with Det. Bedford, when I heard another police officer tell him about an organized crime group operating in Calgary and Edmonton at the end of April. I was aware of a travelling salesperson who had been robbed in Calgary at that time, and a courier van delivering customer repairs for a local jeweller in Edmonton that had also been robbed. To me, it sounded like the same MO in both cases, so I passed on the information about the Calgary robbery to Calgary police and an Edmonton police crime analyst who is part of the JVC network. I did feel concerned when I heard the other officer state, “A number of people in this room wouldn’t be interested in getting involved in that type of case, because it’s too much work.” After all, the investigation by Det. Bedford had involved hundreds of hours to complete surveillance and all the paperwork to obtain court orders for wiretaps and search warrants. Believe me, real life is nothing like CSI when they say, “I’ll be back shortly with a warrant.” There are many hardworking police officers all across Canada who dedicate themselves to protecting the public. They need our support and all the help we can give them through our networking and sharing of information. We as an industry must become part of the solution. By all means, report any criminal activity against you to the police, and also fi le a report with JVC . It can help solve your incident. Networking can have a positive impact on catching criminals but networking means you must be part of the solution. [CJ]


12/15/11 1:58:56 PM

“Learning is a treasure which accompanies its owner everywhere.” -An c i e n t ch i n e se Pro v e rb

Providing Jewellers With the Foundation to Succeed For more than 23 years, Jewellers vigilance canada has served as a source of support and education for jewellers throughout canada. A non-profit overseen by leading industry professionals, we’ve made it our mission to provide our members with the education needed to prevent crime, serve as a key resource for government agencies, and set industry standards that aid in building consumer confidence in the jewellery products they buy.

Sign up now at

or call 1-800-636-9536

Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the canadian jewellery industry. crime Prevention • resource Protection • sAFety AwAreness

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2012 Trade Show Listings Your comprehensive guide to the most anticipated events of the year


Jan. 3-4 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Tropicana Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987 Jan. 6-8 International Gem & Jewelry Show Pontchartrain Center New Orleans, LA Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034 Jan. 6-9 IIJS Signature Mumbai 2012 Bombay Exhibition Centre (NSE Complex), Goregaon Mumbai, India Tel: 91-22-2652-4791 Fax: 91-22-2652-4764 Attendees: 4,700 Exhibitors: 450 Attendees: 14,000 Exhibitors: 400 Jan. 14-16 Jewelers International Showcase Miami Beach Convention Center Miami Beach, FL Attendees: 10,000 Exhibitors: 1,000

Jan. 22-25 Showcase Ireland’s Creative Expo RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Merrion Road Ballsbridge Dublin, Ireland Tel: 353 (0)1 295 8185 Fax: 353 (0)1 295 8187 Exhibitors: 350

Jan. 14-19 VicenzaOro First Vicenza Fair Vicenza, Italy Tel: 39-0444-969-111 Fax: 39-0444-969-000

Jan.26-29 New Orleans Gift & Jewelry Show New Orleans Morial Convention Center New Orleans, LA Tel: 630-241-9865 Fax: 630-241-9870 Attendees: 15,000 Exhibitors: 700

Jan. 16-20 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie – Invitation-only Palexpo Geneva, Switzerland Tel: 905-602-5161 Fax: 905-602-6064

Jan. 11-14 IJT International Jewellery Fair Tokyo Tokyo Big Sight, East Hall Tokyo, Japan Tel: 81-3-3349-8503 Fax: 81-3-3345-7929

Jan. 20-22 International Gem & Jewelry Show Reliant Center at Reliant Park Houston, TX Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034

Jan. 13-15 International Gem & Jewelry Show Phoenix Convention Center Phoenix, AZ Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034

Jan.20-23 Eclat de Mode - Bijorhea Paris - Porte de Versailles – Pavilion 5 Paris, France Tel: 33-01-47-56-52-82 Fax: 33-01-47-56-24-92


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Jan. 29-31 Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair Antwerp Diamond Bourse & Antwerp Diamond Club Antwerp, Belgium communications@ Exhibitors: 65 Jan. 29-31 Centurion 2012 Invitation-only Scottsdale, AZ Tel: 516-377-5909 Fax: 413-683-1333 Jan. 29-31 Mode Accessories Show Doubletree by Hilton Toronto Airport Hotel Toronto, ON twoplusone@mode-accessories. com Attendees: 4,000 Exhibitors: 220

Jan. 27-Feb. 7 JOGS Winter Show 2012 Tucson Expo Center Tucson, AZ Tel: 213-629-3030 Fax: 213-629-3434

Jan. 29-Feb.2 CGTA Toronto Gift Show International Centre & Toronto Congress Centre Toronto, ON Attendees: 16,000 Exhibitors : 900

Jan. 28-Feb.10 Gem & Jewelry Trade Show Gem Mall Tucson, AZ Tel: 601-879-8832 Fax: 601-879-3282

Jan. 30-31 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Hilton Miami Downtown Miami, FL Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987

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Jan. 31-Feb. 6 GLDA Tucson Gem & Jewelry Show The Marriott Starr Pass Resort & Spa Tucson, AZ Jan. 31-Feb. 5 GJX Gem & Jewelry Show GJX Pavilion Tucson, AZ Tel: 520-882-4200 Fax: 520-882-4203 Jan. 31-Feb. 5 AGTA GemFair Tucson Tucson Convention Center Tucson, AZ Tel: 800-972-1162 Fax: 214-742-7334 Exhibitors: 1,000


Feb. 2-6 The Original Miami Beach Antique Show Miami Beach Convention Center Miami Beach, FL Tel: 239-732-6642 Fax: 239-352-6005 Attendees: 20,000 Exhibitors: 800 Feb. 2-10 Gem & Lapidary Trade Show Holiday Inn – Palo Verde/Holidome Tucson, AZ Tel: 601-879-8832 Fax: 601-879-3282 Feb. 4-7 Feninjer – Brazilian Gems And Jewellery Show Transamérica Expo Center São Paulo, Brazil Tel: 55-61-3326-3926 Fax: 55-61-3328-6721 Feb. 5-9 Spring Fair International 2012

The NEC Birmingham, UK Tel: 44-0-8445-888-071 Attendees: 73,000 Exhibitors: 3,000 Feb. 9-13 49th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair IMPACT Exhibition And Convention Center Bangkok, Thailand Tel: 662-630-1390 Fax: 662-630-1398/99 Feb. 10-13 China Int’l Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair – Shenzhen Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center Shenzhen, China Tel: 852-2516-1677 Fax: 852-3749-7542 Feb. 10-13 Inhorgenta 2012 New Munich Trade Fair Centre Munich, Germany Tel: 905-813-1051 Fax: 905-824-5067 neeta.correa@canada-unlimited. com Feb. 11-13 Memphis Gift & Jewelry Show Memphis Cook Convention Center Memphis, TN Tel: 630-241-9865 Fax: 630-241-9870 Attendees: 10,000 Exhibitors: 350 Feb. 16-20 Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong Tel: 416-366-3594 Fax: 416-366-1569 Exhibitors: 2,800

Feb. 17-19 International Gem & Jewelry Show Dulles Expo Center Chantilly, VA Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034 Exhibitors: 300


Feb. 18-21 Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – March Edition Asia World-Expo Hong Kong Tel: 852-2585-6179/852-2516-1677 Fax: 852-3749-7592 and Attendees: 4,200 Exhibitors: 320

Mar. 3-4 International Gem & Jewelry Show Southfield Municipal Complex Pavillion Southfield, MI Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034

Feb. 20-21 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Marriott Renaissance Orlando at SeaWorld Orlando, FL Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987 Feb. 24-26 International Gem & Jewelry Show Los Angeles Convention Center Los Angeles, CA Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034 Feb. 25-27 Atlanta Jewelry Show Cobb Galleria Centre Atlanta, GA Tel: 800-241-0399 Fax: 404-634-4663 Exhibitors: 500 Feb. 29 – Mar. 4 International Fashion Jewelry & Accessory Show Embassy Suites International Drive South Orlando, FL Tel: 401-295-4564 Fax: 401-295-0122

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Mar. 2-4 International Gem & Jewelry Show Denver Merchandise Mart Denver, CO Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034

Mar. 4-5 JAA Melbourne Jewellery Fair Royal Exhibition Building Carlton Gardens Melbourne, Australia Tel: 61-2-945-27575 Fax: 61-2-997-53707 Mar. 8-15 BaselWorld – The Watch and Jewellery Show Exhibition Centre Basel (Messe Basel) Basel, Switzerland Tel: 41-58-206-2525 Fax: 41-58-206-2190 Attendees: 100,000 Exhibitors: 1,800 Mar. 11-13 MJSA Expo New York Hilton New York New York, NY Tel: 1-800-444-6572 Fax: 401-274-0265 Attendees: 4,000 Exhibitors: 180 Mar. 19-20 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Tropicana Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987 | DECEMBER 2011 • January 2012



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Mar. 22-25 CNR Expo Fair Center Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90-212-519-0719 Fax: 90-212-513-3038 Attendees: 35,000 Exhibitors: 1,000 Mar. 25-26 JAA Brisbane Jewellery Fair Brisbane Convention & Exhibition Centre South Bank, Brisbane, Australia Tel: 61-2-9452-7575 Fax: 61-2-9975-3707 jewelleryfair@expertiseevents. Mar. 31-Apr. 2 Jewelers International Showcase Miami Beach Convention Center Miami Beach, FL Tel: 561-998-0205 Fax: 561-998-0209 Exhibitors: 400

Apr. 27-29 Toronto Jewellery Gem & Mineral Show Don Mills Civitan Arena Toronto, ON Tel: 514-989-9800 Attendees: 2,000 Exhibitors: 60


May 6-9 International Fashion Jewelry & Accessory Show Doubletree Guest Suites -Times Square New York, NY Tel: 401-295-4564 Fax: 402-295-0122 May 11-13 West Coast Gem & Mineral Show Holiday Inn Orange County Airport Santa Ana, CA Tel: 505-867-0425 Fax: 303-223-3478


May 16-18 IJK International Jewellery Fair Kobe Kobe International Exhibition Hall Kobe, Japan Tel: 81-3-3349-8503 Fax: 81-3-3345-7929

Apr. 23-24 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Marriott NY Brooklyn Bridge Brooklyn, NY Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987

May 17-20 International Jewelry Fair/ General Merchandise Show New Orleans Morial Convention Center New Orleans, LA Tel: 630-241-9865 Fax: 630-241-9870 Attendees: 20,000 Exhibitors: 700

Apr. 20-22 Chicago Antique Jewelry & Watch Show Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers Chicago, IL Tel: 239-732-6642 Fax: 239-352-6005

Apr. 25-28 American Gem Society’s Conclave 2012 Doral Golf Resort and Spa Miami, FL Tel: 702-255-6500 Fax: 702-255-7420


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May 19-23 VicenzaOro Vicenza Fair Vicenza, Italy Tel: 39-0444-969-111 Fax: 39-0444-969-000

May 28-29 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Tropicana Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987 May 28-31 GLDA Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Mirage Event Center Las Vegas, NV Tel: 301-294-1640 Fax: 301-294-0034 Exhibitors: 400 May 29-Jun. 4 LUXURY (May 29-31, Invitation-only) Four Seasons/THE Hotel/ Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV Tel: 203-840-5521/973-263-4610 Fax: 203-840-9521/973-263-4977; May 31-Jun. 3 Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show Paris Hotel Las Vegas, NV Tel: 239-732-6642 Fax: 239-732-6652 May 31-Jun.4 Swiss Watch – By Appointment Only Four Seasons/Mandalay Bay/ The Hotel Las Vegas, NV Tel: 203-840-4800 Fax: 203-840-5805 May 31-Jun.4 AGTA GemFair at the JCK Las Vegas Show The Mandalay Bay Hotel & Convention Center Las Vegas, NV Tel: 800-972-1162 Attendees: 20,000 Exhibitors: 220


Jun. 1-3 NICHE: The Show Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino Las Vegas, NV Tel: 410-889-2933 Jun. 1-4 JCK Las Vegas Mandalay Bay Hotel & Convention Center Las Vegas, NV Tel: 1-800-257-3626 Exhibitors: 2,500 Jun. 21-24 Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – June Edition Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong Tel: 852-2516-2158/852-2585-6179 Fax: 852-3749-7344/852-3749-7542 Jun. 21-24 June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Far Hong Kong Convention And Exhibition Centre Hong Kong Tel: 852-2516-1677 Fax: 852-3749-7319 Jun. 22-24 Hyderabad Jewellery, Pearl and Gem Fair Hitex Exhibition Centre Hyderbad, India Tel: 91-022-6612-2600 Fax 91-022-6612-2626/27


Jul. 1-3 Eclat de Mode – Bijourhca Paris – Porte de Versailles Pavillion 5 Paris, France Tel: 33-01-47-56-21-36 Fax: 33-01-47-56-24-21 Attendees: 13,000 Exhibitors: 400

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Elegant and contemporary handmade luxury that you can afford.

Toronto designer, Anita Agrawal, has been in the jewellery industry for over the past twenty years and recently launched her well received jewellery line just last year. Anita, designs with the goal of making wearable fine gold, silver and gemstone jewellery that is affordable and can be transitioned from day to evening wear. All Jewels by Anita products are available at fine jewellery stores across North America. All products are handmade in Canada and are customizable. For more information and a price list, contact Anita at


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Jul. 20-23 New York Antique Jewellery & Watch Show Metropolitan Pavilion New York, NY Tel: 239-732-6642 Fax: 239-352-6005 Exhibitors: 100 Jul. 23-24 International Watch & Jewellery Guild Marriott , NY Brooklyn Bridge Brooklyn, NY Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987 Jul. 30 – Aug.1 Luxury Privé The Pierre Hotel New York, NY Tel: 203-840-5521/973-263-4610 Fax: 203-840-9521/973-263-4977;


Aug. 1-4 Feninjer - Brazilian Gems & Jewellery Show Transamérica Expo Center São Paulo, Brazil Tel: 55-61-3326-3926 Fax: 55-61-3328-6721 Aug. 11-13 Atlanta Jewelry Show Cobb Galleria Centre Atlanta, GA Tel: 800-241-0399 Fax: 404-634-4663 Exhibitors: 500 Aug. 12-14 JCK Toronto Metro Toronto Convention Centre South Hall Toronto, ON Tel: 416-756-0303/ 416-585-8000 Aug. 12-14 Mode Accessories Show Doubletree by Hilton


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Toronto Airport Hotel Toronto, ON Tel: 416-510-0114 Fax: 416-510-0165 twoplusone@mode-accessories. com Aug. 17-19 Western Canadian Jewellery Expo Shaw Conference Centre Edmonton, AB Tel: 780-467-9549 Fax: 780-464-3349 Aug. 23-27 India International Jewellery Show 2012 Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre Mumbai, India Tel: 91-22-26524791 Fax: 91-22-26524764 Aug. 26-28 Expo Prestige Montreal Convention Centre Montreal, QC Tel: 514-485-3333 Fax: 450-649-8984 Aug. 28-30 Japan Jewellery Fair Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center Tokyo, Japan Tel: 81-3-5296-1020 Fax: 81-3-5296-1018


Sept. 2-4 JAA International Jewellery Fair Sydney Exhibition Centre Darling Harbour Sydney, Australia Tel: 61-2-9452-7575 Fax: 61-2-9975-3707 jewelleryfair@expertiseevents. Sept. 2-5 Autumn Fair International 2012 The NEC Birmingham, UK Tel: 44-0-20-7728-5424 Fax: 44-0-20-7728-4242 Sept. 5-9 International Fashion Jewelry & Accessory Show Crowne Plaza Hotel Warwick, RI Tel: 401-295-4564 Fax: 401-295-0122 Sept. 7-9 The Miami Beach Antique Jewelry & Watch Show Miami Beach Convention Center – Hall A Miami Beach, FL Tel: 239-732-6642 Fax: 239-352-6005 Sept. 8-12 VicenzaOro Choice Vicenza Fair Vicenza, Italy Tel: 39-0444-969-111 Fax: 39-0444-969-000 Sept. 10-11 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Tropicana Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987 Sept. 13-17 50th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Show IMPACT Exhibition and Convention Center Nonthaburi Bangrak, Bangkok, Thailand Tel: 662-630-1390 Fax: 662-630-1398/99 Sept. 19-23 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair AsiaWorld-Expo Hong Kong Tel: 852-2516-1677 Fax: 852-3749-7319

Sept. 26-29 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong Tel: 852-2516-1677 Fax: 852-3749-7319 and Sept. 28-Oct. 1 Intergem Fair Hall Idar Oberstein, Germany Tel: 49-0-6781-56872100 Fax: 49-0-6781-56872172


Oct. 5-8 Jewelers International Showcase Miami Beach Convention Center Miami Beach, FL Tel: 561-998-0205 Fax: 561-998-0209 Oct. 22-23 International Watch & Jewelry Guild Marriott New York Brooklyn Bridge Brooklyn, NY Tel: 713-783-8188 Fax: 281-589-8987


Nov. 15-18 International Jewelry Fair/ General Merchandise Show New Orleans Morial Convention Center New Orleans, LA


Dec. 14-16 Baton Rouge Jewelry & General Merchandise Show Baton Rouge River Center Baton Rouge, LA Tel: 630-241-9865 Fax: 630-241-9870

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For details, write #134 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail Sterling Silver Jewellery At Its Best

MCD PEARL IMPORTS a selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery

703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6 416.368.2690 catalogue available upon request

Wholesaler  Manufacturer  Distributor Not Open to Public

55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898


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Visit our NEW website . Ready to ship finished jewellery for the holiday season. In stock tennis bracelet mounts and much more!!!

More then just a Casting House !!! 215 Victoria St, Suite B-3, Toronto, ON, M5B 1T9 Tel: 416.366.4046 Fax: 416.366.5162 Toll Free: 1-877.365.5552 Email:

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showcase showcase


A D V E R T I S I N G A V E TT IIplease S II N For more information on how to advertise in this section A ofD DCanadian V Jeweller E R Rmagazine S contact: NLucyG GHolden 514-381-5196, A D V E R T I S I

For free 888-358-8186 e-mail For more more information information on on how how to to advertise advertise in in the the classified classified section section of of Canadian Canadian Jeweller Jeweller magazine magazine please please contact: contact: Lucy Lucy Holden Holden Toll Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or advertise e-mail For more informationext. on6117 how or to in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please cont

Since 1895

pure beauty has a name...


00 0



Online inventory




Vancouver, B.C.




For over 100 years, Hagerty has carried on a tradition of excellence. Today, Hagerty is a world leader in the care of precious metals and the popular choice among Canadian Jewellers.

Exclusively available in Canada through

Hagerty Distributors

H&W Perrin 416-422-4600

All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

Jewelry Sales Reps. Wanted Canadian Distributorship and Authorized Retail Locations Available


The Jewellers Choice

We D A

Burney Giftware Prestige Pak Inc. 514-387-8888 416-736-9990

Reliable Watch / Jean Michel Habsons Jewellery Supply 514-866-1095 604-708-9700

Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!

Art. Dir. Paul Marciano

Gc is a registered trademark of GUESS?, Inc.

Great Retailers Bello e Italiano Need Great Charms


l e at he r & s t e r l ing


for men and women E x c l u s i v e l y

a t



1059Findco_DZ 1


Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat and up in Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green and more (All certified G.I.A) Sport Class XXL Blackout Chronograph

Tel: (416) 363-2111 Fax: (416) 363-1349

Matte black ceramic

Toll Free: 1-866-211-7778

Sapphire crystal Swiss ™ Made

Thousands of charms in silver and gold. Visit:

55 Queen Street East, Suite 1209, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 1R6

88 80

162 CJ CJ DNEOCVEEMMBBEERR 22001111 • | J aWnWuWa. CrAyN A2D0I A1N2J E W| E L L E R . C O M



| September/OctOber 2011 – buyerS’ Guide



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Price b $1000-

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showcase showcase


For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196,

MCD Pearls Showcase 1/20/11 5:08 PM Page 1

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail


ing p p i h S w o N

Silver Polish Pump Spray

A new enhanced formula with the convenience of a pump spray. Maintains the patina of silver while guarding against tarnish for months.

Find details on our website at

MCD PEARL IMPORTS a selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery


pump spray

Hagerty Distributors H&W Perrin 416-422-4600

703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6 416.368.2690 catalogue available upon request

Burney Giftware Prestige Pak Inc. 514-387-8888 416-736-9990

Reliable Watch / Jean Michel Habsons Jewellery Supply 514-866-1095 604-708-9700

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 • Email:

Best Bargains Looking for Affordability and Elegance? Why not try the new “Jewels by Anita” collection from Best Bargains? Products from this new mid-range line have been featured in Jewellery Business and Canadian Jeweller magazines.

SHOW 1. New York 2. Toronto 3. Tucson 4. Bangkok

DATE Jan 22-24/12 Jan 29-31/12 Jan 31-Feb5/12 Feb 09-13/12

Package 883: Beautiful 14kt. Gold “Jewels by Anita” Earrings, available in a range of gemstones & styles.

BOOTH TBA #2309 #309 #E20

VENUE Jacob Javits Convention Center Mode Show, Doubletree by Hilton, Dixie Rd. Tucson Convention Center Impact Challenger Bangkok, Thailand

Package 885: 14kt. gold Sapphire & Tanzanite Earrings, Pendant & Bracelet a.Yellow & white Sapphire (4 cts) Earrings, b. Matching Pendant (2.5cts), c.Tanzanite and white sapphire earrings (3cts) d. Matching Pendant (1.5cts) Pendant a.

Package 893: 14kt. Gold gemstone briolette earrings: a. Green amethyst and tourmaline (4mm), b. Amethyst earrings, c. Black spinel and garnet (5mm), d. Quartz and Citrine (4mm). a.





27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 • Email: Starting at $135-300/pr. (As show here 2 pairs $400)

Any Earring $200/pr. Any Pendant $100/pc. Matching Bracelets available: $150/ea.)

All 4 pairs $400 (Your choice of any Earrings $120/pr.)

YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED! Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NO’S.

For more Products visit our website at • • 1-800-661-4871 21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADA

Tel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626


September/OctOber 2011 – buyerS’ Guide |

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| DECEMBER 2011 • January 2012



8/23/11 12:41:44 2:58:56 PM PM 12/15/11

showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

pure beauty has a name...

Exclusively available in Canada through


1-800-663-1458 Online inventory All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

Great Retailers Need Great Charms

Thousands of charms in silver and gold. Visit: 90

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showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail


377: 0.22$/ea 364: 0.22$/ea * Box of 100pcs (S.P.) * Min. order 150$ (mix) * Ship. & txs not incl. * Until Dec. 31st 2011

Tel : 514.332.9298 Fax : 514.332.4158

Creative Gems layout 4/28/11 5:39 PM Page 1

CREATIVE GEMS Inc. Serving the Industry Since 1992

Precious, Semi-precious, Loose Gemstones, Diamonds and all kinds of Beads


Now Carrying Coloured Diamonds 21 Dundas Sq., Suite 712, Toronto, ON Canada M5B 1B7 Tel: 647-430-8969 • Fax: 647-439-0782 • Cell: 416-319-3378 e-mail: • website:

Factory: B-125, Sethi Colony, Jaipur, India

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| DECEMBER 2011 • January 2012



12/15/11 12:42:14 PM

showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail


2741 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3J 0R2, Canada


w h o l e s a l e j e w e l r y l t d


Brand new volumes 20 & 21 catalogues just released

• QUALITY service & attention to detail • 4 highly qualified technicians • Large inventory of parts & access to all major supply houses • Restoration of pocket watches

2741 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3J 0R2, Canada Tel: (204) 789-9620 Email:

n io at c lo u w yo ne rve r nd se tte ra to be





marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

Complete System from as low as


Track commissions, special orders & layaways Integrate with Accounting software Built in credit/ debit processing Print repair bags & Labels for jewellery Create your own gift cards

Call for your live online Demo

Ask us how ACE Webstore can get you online

1-888-810-9395 92

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12/15/11 12:42:25 PM

marketpla A D V E R T I S I

For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please con

marketplace authentic basic art the Swiss way


For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

â&#x20AC;˘ GOLD â&#x20AC;˘ YELLOW â&#x20AC;˘ WHITE â&#x20AC;˘ PINK â&#x20AC;˘ GREEN â&#x20AC;˘ STERLING â&#x20AC;˘ BRONZE

â&#x20AC;˘ PALLADIUM â&#x20AC;˘ PLATINUM â&#x20AC;˘ SILVADIUM â&#x20AC;˘ S-STEEL â&#x20AC;˘ PRESETS â&#x20AC;˘ MOLDS â&#x20AC;˘ ALLOYS

Chipped, burnt or broken? You know theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re hidden somewhere. . . in your safe or at the back of your drawer. Our team of master diamond cutters and polishers can recut, re-polish and repair all your chipped, burnt and broken diamonds - not all damage is beyond repair.


CALL TOLL FREE 1-888-475-5384 Phone: 514-845-5384 â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ 55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6

We aim for AGS IdealÂŽ Cut (the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Triple Zeroâ&#x20AC;?) wherever the diamonds allow. In addition to advanced planning and precision design, light performance on each diamond is assessed using AGS Performance Grading SoftwareÂŽ. watches are distributed in Canada by 10:10 Watches, for more information call 416-419-6039 or visit: EASTERN CANADA Evert P. Botha WESTERN CANADA Doug Zmurchock |

(306) 763 3388 (780) 905 3684

GEM SENSE INC. Accredited Appraisers-CJA

Passport Appraisals â&#x20AC;˘ Estate Appraisals â&#x20AC;˘ Diamonds, Gem Grading and Identification â&#x20AC;˘ Faster Turnaround Gold Marketplace ad


3:11 PM

Page 1 21 Dundas Saquare, Suite 1508, Toronto, ON M5B1B7 Tel: 416.913-6320, Toll Free: 1-866-654-5531 e-mail:





Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology Tel: (416) 363-0584 â&#x20AC;˘ Fax: (416) 363-9633 â&#x20AC;˘ Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 21 Dundas 401, Toronto, ONmost M5B 1B7 Email: to provide youSquare, with Suite the fastest and accurate results. We guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE. Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.

400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9 Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111 Email: Dynamic Gems.indd 1

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Sam Salehi

J E W E L L E R Y RPresident EPAIR E N V E L O P E


1 �A

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FW^[TbP[T3XP\^]SbP]S9TfT[[Tah DESIGN N O I N 27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6 TO YOUR Tel: (416) 777 0010 â&#x20AC;˘ (416) 306 0705 O WN Fax: (416) 777 0021 â&#x20AC;˘ Cell: (416) 566 5579 WISHES Email: ALL . . September/OctOber 2011 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; buyerSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide | 166 PRINTING F A X : 1 4 5 0 6 6 1 4 9 9 9 STEPS INCLUDED s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m



1 - 800 661- 4410 www canadianjeweller com

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marketplace 98471 Wizman Ads:98471 Wizman Ads CJ


A D V E R T I S I N G 2:38 PM

Page 1

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail

All that’s left is your imagination.

Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad



Armandor Enterprises Inc.

3:11 PM

Page 1

New Tel: 416.642.0280 New Fax: 416.642.0281 New Email: New Website: New Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5

New Location in the heart of Downtown Toronto! Now Offering Casting Services




ExprEss Gold rEfininG ltd. Insurance for Customers Jewellery • 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE





Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 21 Dundas 401, Toronto, ONmost M5B 1B7 Email: to provide youSquare, with Suite the fastest and accurate results. We guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.


Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE. Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.

400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9 Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111 Email:

WIZMAN GEMS International Limited 27 Queen Street E., Suite 1403, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 Tel: 416-360-8828





cjFebMar10_CJB_Ad_rev.indd 1

1/29/10 3:14:36 PM Happy Anniversary


Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"



519-617-2468 L , ON ONDON


Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: and

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine

Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9


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Sam Salehi President

Dynamic Gems Group Inc Wholesale Diamonds and Jewellery

27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6 Tel: (416) 777 0010 • (416) 306 0705 Fax: (416) 777 0021 • Cell: (416) 566 5579 Email:


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Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Refining - Assaying - Trading Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Happy Anniversary

12/15/11 12:42:48 PM

â&#x20AC;˘ Cutters of Rough Diamonds â&#x20AC;˘ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes â&#x20AC;˘ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G

For more watches informationare on how to advertise distributed in in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail Canada by 10:10 Watches, for more information call 416-419-6039 or visit:

LaLa Diamond & Repairs Inc. GEMCutting SENSE INC. Accredited Appraisers-CJA

\ Cutters of Rough Diamonds \ Old Mine Passport Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes Appraisals â&#x20AC;˘ Estate Appraisals \ Buy Diamond Roughs Broken Diamonds â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ Diamonds, Gemand Grading and Identification

Ramesh Mistry Tel: 416-368-6883

Faster Turnaround 21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

21 Dundas Saquare, Suite 1508, Toronto, ON M5B1B7 Tel: 416.913-6320, Toll Free: 1-866-654-5531 e-mail:

CAD-CAM for Jewellers




SUPPORT Sam Salehi President

Free introductory training!


Rhino RolandGroup Inc Dynamic Gems

CanadianJeweller.indt 1

Wholesale Jewellery Rhino Diamonds Gold andSolidscape

27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6 Tel: (416) 777 0010 â&#x20AC;˘ (416) 306 0705 V E R T I Fax: S (416) I N777G 0021 â&#x20AC;˘ Cell: (416) 566 5579 SCHINDLER TECHNOLOGIES CORPORATION anadian Jeweller magazineEmail: please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196,


CJ S e p t e m b e r / O c t O b e r 2 0 1 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; b u y e r S â&#x20AC;&#x2122; G u i d e |

3/5/10 11:51:32 AM

Since 1996 160_167 CJ_Showcase_Market.indd 166



8/29/11 11:57:03 AM

2/8/10 11:36:00 AM


â&#x20AC;˘ Finishing: 2 weeks turn around â&#x20AC;˘ Print, Mill, Grow your CAD, STL ďŹ les 2-3 days


â&#x20AC;˘ Casting Provided â&#x20AC;˘ All jobs set under microscope â&#x20AC;˘ Our jobs guaranteed

Armandor Enterprises Inc. New Tel: 416.642.0280 416.642.0281 New Email: New Website: New Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5

10/30/09 12:01:02 PMNew Fax:

410 Chrislea Rd, Unit 9, Woodbridge, Ontario Tel: 905-264-9976 â&#x20AC;˘ Toll Free: 1-866-264-9976 â&#x20AC;˘ 1-888-688-6835 905-927-1166

Schindler.indd 1

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883 email:

Over 20 Years Experience

Complete System from as low as

1/29/10 3:14:36 PM

Track commissions, special orders & layaways Integrate with Accounting software

94-103.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 95



New Location in the heart of Downtown Toronto! Now Offering Casting Services

| DECEMBER 2011 â&#x20AC;˘ JANUARY 2012



12/15/11 12:43:00 PM




on any product advertised in this issue

2. Use this quick reference list below to find its free info number (it’s also on the ad)



24 Gold Group Sapir Stuller Sequel Canada Imperial Gems and Jewels Lili Diamonds Jewelers Mutual E.R.L. Diamonds Rembrandt Charms Midas Jewellery MJSA Jewelers Mutual Lega Jewellery Stuller Pierre Laurent Time Pieces 1010 Watches Rodania Canada Importex Muehle-Glashuette Canada Polygon Malo Creations Feri Mosh Fantastic Fine Jewellery Wengers Rodania Canada BaselWorld 2012

2 3 4-5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 20 21 23 25 27 31 33 37 39 41 42-43 53 55 57 59 65

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392


write #

101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126



Feri Mosh Nova GIA Bullion Mart JVC Best Bargains Noble Gift Packaging Ready Mounts JA New York Elle Jewelry Mirage Sequel Canada Stuller Polygon Importex Sequel Canada Imperial Coloured Diamonds Elle Jewelry Collection Rembrandt Charms Best Bargains Ready Mounts Inc Di Donna Lili Jewellery 1010 Watches

Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________ Company Name: ___________________________________________________________ Address: _________________________________________________________________ City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________ Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________

To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.


To qualify, check circles:

Which category best describes your business classification?  Education  Retailer  Manufacturer  Wholesaler  Importer  Designer  Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)  Other: ________________________________

Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Number of employees at your location  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

Number of locations: ______________________


127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152

Info Card & Subscription

 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine STEP 1

67 73 75 77 79 83 85 87 97 99 100 14 14 14 14 16 16 16 16 18 18 18 18 18

 No, don’t send Selling area of your store  under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume  under $500,000  $500,000 - $1 million  $1 million - $5 million  $5 million - $10 million  $10 million - $20 million  over $20 million Categories you personally manage  Retailer  Designer  Gemologist  Supplier  Manufacturer  Other _________________________________

Reserved exclusively for retailers





Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8 96

CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 |

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Emerald Envy

This brilliant piece from Adeler Jewelers radiates with sparkle and elegance. Five enchanting 5.55 ct emeralds find themselves wrapped in a floral cascade of marquise, princess and round 20.46 ct brilliant faceted diamonds. Priced at $90,998, this 18kt white gold necklace will surely attract envious looks this winter season. BY Lorina Owen


CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 â&#x20AC;˘ J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2 |

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Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 e-mail:

CJ_ad.indd 1

12/15/11 12:38:31 PM

Profile for Rive Gauche Media

Canadian Jeweller - December / January 2011 Issue  

Our December / January 2011 Issue of Canadian Jeweller

Canadian Jeweller - December / January 2011 Issue  

Our December / January 2011 Issue of Canadian Jeweller