Righty Righty Right 2 no
RightyRightyRight http://RightyRightyRight.com left@RightyRightyRight.com http://facebook.com/RightyRightyRight @RightyRighty
Editor in Chief & Art Director GILDA SU Photo Director TOMONORI IWATA Advertising Director RYOSUKE SUZUKI ADVERTISE
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Cover no2 Photography: Tomonori Iwata
Illustrations by Eri Wakiyama: http://erithemermaid.blogspot.com
HI FROM THE EDITOR 04 06
I am a Good Socialist
DOING IT MY WAY
La Tigerasa Loca!
MICHAEL KAMPE 38 44
Take Me To Your Leader, MoonSpoon Saloon 52
k r Nutcracker a D 60
CONTENT. BRAND+SHOP INDEX 83
HI FROM THE EDITOR
RightyRightyRight started some RightyRightyRight は数ヶ月前 months ago as nothing more から、友 達 ３ 人 の 間 から始まっ than an idea between 3 friends. たアイデアに 過ぎな かった 。正 We had a lot of nerve taking on 直に言うと、無経験なくせに、こ a project this massive, with no ん な にスケ ー ル の デ カ いプ ロ prior experience. Truth be told, ジェクトをやろうとしているこの we had no idea what we were ３人も、結構生意気だ！先が分か getting ourselves into! らな いまま、頭 から飛 び 込んで This lack of knowledge meant we had to face a lot of hurdles, but it also meant we had a chance to experiment and design a system that was unique to RRR. We’re always excited about discovering brands and artists, and we are obsessed with editorials – so we made this our main focus. Entering into the new year (a bunny year, no less!) with nothing more than guts and spirit, I’m curious about what the future holds for RRR! We want to walk under new skies. We want to discover for new points of view. We are vanguard soldiers.
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無知だから確かに多くの困難に 耐えなければならなかったけど、 無知だからこそ、いろんな革新的 なことを試したり、RRR に合うよ うな独特なシステムもデザイン できた。知らなかったブランドや ア ー ティストを 発 見 する の が ワクワクで、エディトリアルも好き すぎて・・・だからこれを中心にや って行こうと思った。 た だ 、根 性と意 地 で 新 年（しか もウサ ギ 年！）を 迎えた 我々で すが、これからの R R R の将来は どうな る ん だろう？！新し い 角 度から世界を見たい。新しいス テ ー ジ を 見 つ け た い 。我 々 は 特攻隊だ。
ko F Illustration by Yo
Photographer: Steve Prue / Creative Direction and Illustrations: Gilda Su / MakeUp and Hair: Kristin Jackson / Model: Mary Jane Olper (Wilhelmina Models) / Fashion: All garments by RÊVASSEUR, all shoes from Irregular Choice /
for lovers and daydreamers
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the constable HAT. DOTTED COTTON asobi TWO-WAY DRESS.
DOUBLE-FRONT fukuzatsu JACKET WITH HAND-WOVEN SAORI COLLAR AND PLACKET, AND WASHED SILK COWL. BALLOON PRINT JERSEY kantan T-SHIRT WITH TIERED SLEEVES. SILK WOOL DIAGONAL yattaze PANTS WITH SPANDEX AND JERSEY PANELS.
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pixie-ish WOOL HAT. CASHMERE WOOL forrest-nymph ASYMMETRICAL JACKET. WASHED SILK fudangi DROPPED-CROTCH PANTS.
GINORMOUS cho dekai voodoo boys NECKLACE. HIGH-WAISTED GABARDINE piero PANTS.
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IKAT COTTON nanka-iissho SHIRT WITH JERSEY SLEEVES AND SAORI BIB. DROPPED-CROTCH sarueru PANTS WITH ASYMMETRIC MULTI-TIERED LEGS.
TWEED AND WOOL floppy HAT WITH SAORI BAND. BALLOON PRINT JERSEY iroiro MULTI-WAY ROMPER.
Photographer: Tasuro Kakishima Art Director: Mio Kawano
Text: Gilda Su
We want to introduce you to some amazing creators who have inspired us recently. They blow our minds away. We wish we had half their talent!
最 近 た くさ ん の イ ン ス ピ レ ー ション を くれ て い る クリ エ ー タ ー 達 の こと を 勝 手 に 紹 介 さ せ て 頂 き ま す！やってること が カッコ よ す ぎ て、仰 天 さ れ て ま す！そ の 才 能 の 半 分 位 で も あ っ た ら なぁ〜、なんて。
Moonspoon Saloon is leading the pack of a new genre of “Fashion meets Art”. Each item is a piece of wearable art that tells a story and has so much quirkiness mixed with the most fantastic volume and silhouettes.
Moonspoon Saloon is a lot more than just a clothing label – it is a collaboration of the creative energies of artist Tal R, with fashion and costume designer Sara Sachs. Fashion is but one of the elements of their entire vision, that manifests itself through visually captivating films, photography, and installations, or as part of performances that integrate music, clothes, shoes, sculpture, theatre, dance and traditional catwalk. The final result is a beautiful visual feast that merges all these disciplines together, creating one spectacular universe! Photography: Eliot Lee Hazel
It was the middle of the night. In the museum, a picture frame decorated a room but there were no painting in it. No one else was around. The two of them couldn’t help feeling that the frame was some sort of portal, and with much anticipation, they peered in. And there, there was a pleasure-filled world that seemed far from reality. Should they leave? Or should they stay? Is it true happiness they found in this world of excitement and enjoyment? Or should they return to the real world to find their happiness? High-Me TOKYO has a spirit of rebelliousness towards today’s fashion, which is expressed through pop accessories.
Its 2010 – 11 AW collection was inspired by the sequel to Alice in Wonderland, Through the Looking Glass, with items that focus on “Another World”. Designer Kae Takahashi explains, “The wearer’s ensemble is completed when topped off by the addition of High-Me TOKYO’s accessories, which finishes the look. I keep this in mind when designing. At the moment, I am also gathering a group of female artists in Tokyo, and together, we’re finding new ways to communicate our art.” http://www.high-me-tokyo.jp/
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Photography: B5000 Art Project / Styling: Comi / Hair+MakeUp: Yu-mi Yoshida
03M.Y.O.B. x B5000 Art Project
Costume Jewellery. Styling.
The team behind M.Y.O.B., for Mind Your Own Business, are accessory designer duos from Japan who relocated to New York in 2009. M.Y.O.B.’s attention-grabbing accessories are available for sale in several Japanese and New York boutiques as well as on their website. At the same time, Comi, also a stylist, pairs up with Yu-mi who does hair and makeup. Together, they form B5000 Art Project, a creative team with a unique point of view, taking part in many collaborations with artists, designers and photographers of different genres. B5000 Art Project also aims to portray the “Now” and “Today” of New York, and continues to update their website with street snaps.
Every designer I know has some kind of a fetish with sketch books, and many carry a little sketch book everywhere, just in case that life-changing idea pops up in our heads.
Fashionary is for the fashion designer who loves speed. It is a sketchbook tailor-made to help streamline their brainstorming process with semi-transparent templates in a handy-sized sketch book. The template pages come with barely-there body outlines for those who aren’t as skilled at illustrations, but one has full reigns in filling the space with design ideas, collages and concepts. The best part about Fashionary is the concise fashion information and dictionary provided that is easy to understand and a breeze to refer to. There are multiple pages of flat sketches showing the pattern pieces, silhouette types and their respective names of tops, skirts, collars, pockets, shoes, heels and so on. There is also information on common fabrics, care label symbols, and presentation board suggestions! There is no doubt that this knowledge is great to have in a handy notebook, for young and experienced designers alike! Fashionary is a brilliant idea and a wonderful gift to yourself or to the aspiring fashion designer. In three simple words, I am obsessed. http://fashionary.org/
05Dilan by Dilan Walpola JEWELLERY.
With a background in both Fine Art and Architecture, Dilan Walpola creates a beautiful balance between natural and manufactured art with his jewelry line, Dilan. The collection questions the way that jewelry traditionally fits onto the body, and thus creates shapes that are unfamiliar but perfectly executed. By hand sculpting and then casting his jewelry, the personal touch and attention to detail is clearly apparent, yet he avoids any notion of craftiness. His grim but polished aesthetic is consistent throughout the collection, which is as likely to be seen in a gallery as in a showroom. It is unconventional, beautifully made, and that talon clip is the cleverest thing we’ve seen in a while. http://dilanwalpola.com/
Photography: Austin Green for Brutal/Beautiful
It’s hard not to be automatically drawn towards Paper-Cut-Project’s form of art. Perhaps because paper is a material that we’re all so familiar with, or perhaps, with the advancement of technology now, something inside of each and every one of us is still drawn to dependable, old school paper. Nostalgia? Maybe. But under the hands of the Paper-Cut-Project duo of Amy Flurry and Nikki Salk, the 2D material transforms itself into a 3D work of art. RRR: Amy:
You described Paper-Cut-Project as a love for fashion and “an appreciation of the grace and nuance of this humble material”. Why paper, and why only stark white paper? When you begin to manipulate paper, you get a taste of the possibilities but the only way to see how far you can take it is to play with it and to use your imagination. We prefer working in white for the depth that is created by the shadows of the various textures and layering. RRR: Nikki:
Could you describe your design process? The process always ends up being very organic. First we talk a lot, research the idea then sketch, because the clients really need to be able to see on paper just what all of the initial planning talk will look like in final, completed form. Then we just get to work and it all goes from there!
What challenges have you faced in molding paper to form the shapes you imagined, and what happens if someone sneezes on it??! Each project is different and you kind of just have to figure out the technical aspects of each as you go along. But they are all quite durable and sealed with hardener to boot. Sneezing will not ruin them!
Paper-Cut-Project has done a lot of sculptural masks, head pieces and paper wigs. What’s next? We absolutely imagine branching out. We would like to collaborate with a designer or designers; our work would be at home in the theater of runway. We would like to be guest accessories designers for a house, a la Laetitia Crahay for Maison Michel. And we are currently researching how we can translate paper cuts to metal for a jewelry line.
Pap er A rt I
r-Cut-Projec Pape t
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special brand feature
MICHAEL KAMPE http://www.notjustalabel.com/kampe
Photography series by Artistic Director/Stylist: Lucy McRae / Photographer: Soonhyun Choi / Assistant: Sanne van Wersch / Model: Ezekiel Chibo /
Every other second, young designers appear around the world with their latest collections. Some are good, and some are mediocre. And some make us sit up, widen our eyes, and drop our jaws. Because in that moment, the realization that we are witnessing the work of a genius, hits us in the head like a ton of bricks. Michael Kampe is one of the few with a truly unique point of view and a story to tell. He is an artist in his own right, yet despite his talent and successes, Michael remains humble and down-to-earth. Here, he shares his inspirations and design process. Although weâ€™ll never be able figure out how heâ€™s so good at what he does, we get a glimpse to what makes him Michael Kampe. by Gilda Su
RRR: Tell us about you! Who is Michael Kampe? M: I was born in Hamburg and grew up in Berlin. You would not identify me as a fashion designer and this is what I want to represent: The product comes first! Last year, I finished my studies in Belgium and now work in Italy after winning the ITS#NINE Diesel Award. RRR: Congratulations on ITS#NINE! What inspired you? M: Thank you! It all started with art I saw in Berlin three years ago, when preparing for my previous collection “Cape of Good Hope“. While building my portfolio, I went to view many exhibitions, and saw these great cardboard installations by Florian Baudrexel, and later, some Caspar David Friedrichs paintings in Hamburg. I was fascinated by their way of composing an image and the effect of their use of colours.
That was the basis for my next collection “Exploded View“: Our global society changes with the Internet and new media at a never-before experienced speed and dynamic. Inspired by artists such as Lebbeus Woods and body architects like Lucy McRae, I wanted to capture this idea of exploded development and fragmentation; how products are composed and how this is displayed in so-called Exploded View Drawings has become my starting point of the collection.
I experimented with new ways of creating garments, treating fabrics and mixing materials. Since I was not using classical patterns and draped every piece on the dummy, I encountered a lot of obstacles, but this became a very inspiring challenge.
ITS#NINE runway photo by Giovanni Giannoni
RRR: Speaking of “Cape of Good Hope”, both your collections have really interesting prints. Is there a reason you use prints in the way you do? M: “Cape of Good Hope“ was inspired by Caspar David Friedrich`s painting “Das Eismeer“ and icebreaking ships. The adventure and elemental force of the Antarctic was my theme. “Exploded View“ further extends upon these realization processes with a new concept. I love to combine strong, cold colours with soft, warm elements such as fabrics.
It is also my intention to let the wearer enter a garment that reveals its own world. The contrast and symbiosis I create is significant for the way I create pieces. To achieve this result, I develop prints myself in a technique that allows me to play with the patterns and the print on fabric.
RRR: Can you describe your design process, from when it’s born inside your head and when it’s realized in 3D? M: It all starts from a raw idea – a theme that grows inside my head, composed of many different influences. It can be a song, a smell, a painting, stories, the news, and so on. These impressions are integrated and built up to make the basic concept concrete. Then I create several mood boards and pursue this main idea and its details. I enjoy it most when this “mind-puzzle“ in my head begins to take shape and I can start working on actual garments. Seeing my 2D ideas become 3D pieces is the most satisfying!
Sometimes things do not work out as planned, ideas have to change, and every so often, I expect something to turn out nicer than it did. But I learn from these experiences. It is a necessity to grow.
RRR: What goes through your mind when you’re creating something? M: Absolute focus. It is like entering my very own world. I start by scanning my environment, looking for elements I can use, reasons for or against several directions, connections, even sound tracks that underline my feelings at each design-stage. During these working periods I often do not realize until 4 am that it’s past my bedtime. RRR: What inspires you? M: Deconstruction. Reconstruction. Revolutions – this tip of a moment when things are going to change. The atmosphere you feel when, for example, a group of people who strongly believe in their goals, reflect a special sort of power. RRR: Were you always interested in fashion and art? M: I think that a painting or a sculpture can become your
favourite movie in a way, because there is so much you can read and think about by watching it. I enjoy the fantastic scenarios of Hieronymus Bosch and the funny paintings by Breughel and M.C. Escher.
Later, I got interested in Street Art which is huge in Berlin. I also played drums in a Death Metal band and enjoyed cooking. Drawing was something I did all the time. Then, after building some machines in my parents’ basement, I tried out a 60 year old sewing machine I found there. Before, I was never interested in fashion. I did not like to dress up, and still don’t now, but this almost sculptural composition of fabrics in a garment grabbed my attention. After graduating from school, I learned at a traditional tailor and then started my studies in Antwerp.
RRR: How has your education at Antwerp’s Royal Academy influenced you? M: It was a very tough time, but I learned to love it. I went there without any design lessons before, so in the beginning, it was more a trial-and-error study for me. I am so grateful for the patience and all the drilling from the teachers at Antwerp. It is so wonderful because you are already starting on a very high level. The selection of students from all over the world pushes everybody to do better. It is extremely competitive which is good, because fashion is like this. RRR: A lot of your pieces are an avant-garde take on the Worker and his clothing, with denim, overcoats and such. Is this a constant inspiration and why? M: Well, it is one of my inspirations. It is a very striking combination for me since I want to keep a very masculine image of functional clothes with a cuttingedge aspect. If I would reduce one of these elements, I would be missing something in the final product, which combines classical cut and functional elements. RRR: How would you describe your designing style? M: Cutting-edge urban wear with a single-piece couture finishing. Each piece is unique. Each treatment delivers a garment completely different from another. Classical garments are deconstructed and printed to show new directions in urban and denim wear. RRR: Do you think you’ll continue on with menswear, or would you like to venture into womenswear too? M: I am already in it now! My image of a woman wearing my designs is not an over-styled extrovert, but a character that is original and true. Girls in parkas, sweatshirts and denim pants have a special note of beauty that I like a lot! RRR: Some of your designs are more for collectors and
the adventurous, while some are rather wearable. Who do you see as your target customer? M : As you mentioned, my clothes are mostly directed towards customers who are “collectors“ rather than consumers – people who feel comfortable in their individual garment, because they have a personal relationship with it. Certainly, some of my creations are rather moving pieces of art. The emphasis is, however, to offer wearable fashion which is unique. RRR: What makes a successful designer? M: Originality, freedom, complete dedication, but also realistic approaches towards design. Of utmost importance next to creativity, is work discipline and the capacity for tenacity. I could never have gone this far without honest and constructive criticism from others. RRR: With all that time and energy dedicated to your art, what do you do when you’re not designing?
M: I try to meet my girlfriend, parents and friends, who unfortunately or luckily, are spread all over the world, and go to see live concerts in small clubs. Well, but design is capturing!
RRR: What does your family say when they see your designs? M: They are my strongest support! Also my hardest critics, and for that I am very thankful. RRR: I know you’ll be working at Diesel for the next six months or so. What’s next?
M: Many exhibitions, projects and collaborations with stylists and artist, competitions and of course, new collections from my own line, Michael Kampe!
Photography series by Photographer: Soonhyun Choi / Model: Niklaus Hodel /
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ran b l ia spec
Take Me To Your Leader, MoonSpoon Saloon http://moonspoonsaloon.com/
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Photography: Eliot Lee Hazel Styling: Diana Contreras & Mindy Le Brock Hair: Hunter All costumes by MoonSpoon Saloon
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Locate the labels in this issue’s editorials, through this index of designers and the stores we found them at. ALBERTO JUAN ARCHIVES
http://galaabend.jp/ +81.3.5771.1350 New Classics 1F, 4-26-26 Jingumae, Shibuya-Ku, Tokyo
firstname.lastname@example.org http://revasseur.com +1.917.455.8058
HIGH-ME TOKYO email@example.com http://www.high-me-tokyo.jp
firstname.lastname@example.org http://www.sadak.de/ +126.96.36.199.1489
SAMMY B DESIGNS
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
A-MORIR by KERIN ROSE email@example.com http://www.a-morir.com/
ANY OLD IRON firstname.lastname@example.org http://anyoldiron.net/ +188.8.131.5204 149 Orchard Street, New York, NY
CAPEZIO DANCE THEATRE SHOP http://www.capeziodance.com/ +1.212.586.5140 201 Amsterdam Avenue New York, NY
CHENG-HUAI CHUANG email@example.com http://www.chuang.me +184.108.40.20621 71 W 23rd St, Suite 1626, New York, NY (by appointment)
firstname.lastname@example.org http://www.notjustalabel.com/ kampe
SALES@MOONSPOONSALOON.COM http://moonspoonsaloon.com/ +45 26 28 07 98
MYOB & B5000 ART PROJECT email@example.com http://www.filter-nyc.net/
http://endofcenturynyc.com/ +1.646.602.9556 175 Rivington Street, New York, NY
http://www.patriciafield.com/ +1.212.966.4066 302 Bowery, New York, NY
END OF CENTURY
TOM TOM CORSET
firstname.lastname@example.org http://www.unitednude.com/ +1.212.420.6000 25 Bond Street, New York, NY
DILAN by DILAN WALPOLA
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Published on Feb 25, 2011
Published on Feb 25, 2011
We're completely excited about our second issue, filled with amazing photography, inspiring editorials, and more introductions to brands and...