Poke Chan
Ga b r i e l l e Chef Greg Sonnier’s earthy, sophisticated cooking made Gabrielle one of the most cherished restaurants in New Orleans. Its original location on Esplanade Avenue was damaged during Katrina, and like so many other locals, Sonnier and his equally-talented wife Mary, were stymied in their efforts to reopen. They tried to start again with the Uptowner, but Byzantine zoning laws and neighborhood opposition proved insurmountable hurdles. In September of last year, their dream became a reality when Gabrielle reopened on Orleans Avenue, with Gabie now running the front of the house. The location has changed, and chef Sonnier’s food has evolved, but Gabrielle remains a welcoming, family-oriented place, and the bold, rich flavors will be familiar to anyone who dined with the Sonniers on Esplanade. Chef Sonnier’s experience working with chefs Paul Prudhomme and Frank Brigtsen is evident on each plate. The food tends toward rustic, full-bodied flavors, and many dishes benefit from long, slow cooking. Though each element of every dish is carefully considered and artfully presented, the flavors are reminiscent of the best of our region’s home cooking. From the dark, smoky gumbo to Sonnier’s renowned slow-roasted duck, the food is unmistakably from south Louisiana. 2441 orleans ave., 603-2344,
A lineup of national poke chains are bearing down on New Orleans. But on St. Claude Avenue you will find Poke-chan, a local independent that serves up colorful bowls of the marinated fish and whose care and attention to detail will put such interlopers to shame. Owned by a trio of sisters, Loan, Lien and Susan Nguyen, the concept came about while working at N7, where they met their other business partner, Dalena Vo. A scattering of Japanese dishes such as takoyaki, from N7’s chef Yuki Yamaguchi, complete the menu. Loan views poke as an affordable, casual alternative to sushi. “Also it’s healthy,” Loan says, “A lot of classic New Orleans food is so heavy.” Choose from a selection of composed bowls or else build you own from an array of options. There are also cooked bowls featuring unagi as well as karaage, flavorful morsels of Japanese fried chicken. Popular options include the Honey Garlic bowl, an assemblage of rice, tuna, salmon and snow crab seasoned with honey-garlic marinade, pickled daikon and a spicy aioli. Housemade Jasmine and Thai-style milk teas help to complete the experience. 2809 St. Claude Ave., 571-5446, Poke-chan.com