New Orleans Magazine December 2018

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december 2018 / VOLUME 53 / NUMBER 1 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Ashley McLellan Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Writers Mary Lou Eichhorn, Fritz Esker, Kathy Finn, Dawn Ruth Wilson, Jason Berry, Carolyn Kolb, Chris Rose, Eve Crawford Peyton, Mike Griffith, Liz Scott Monaghan, Lee Cutrone, Dale Curry, Jay Forman, Tim McNally, Robert Peyton Digital Media Editor Kelly Massicot Social Media Assistant Becca Miller Staff Writers Topher Balfer, Kelly Massicot, Melanie Warner Spencer Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan Advertising Sales Manager Kate Henry (504) 830-7216 / Senior Account Executive Claire Cummings Account Executives Meggie Schmidt, Rachel Webber Director of Marketing and Events Cheryl Lemoine Event Coordinator Abbie Dugruise Digital Media Associate Mallary Matherne For event information call (504) 830-7264 Production Designers Emily Andras, Rosa Balaguer, Meghan Rooney Special Projects Art Director Molly Tullier Traffic Coordinator Lane Brocato Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive Vice President Errol Laborde Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Mallary Matherne Subscriptions Manager Brittanie Bryant For subscription information call (504) 828-1380 WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005

New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2018 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

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Contents Local Color On the Cover: Chef of the Year Edgar Caro, Zocalo


Photographed by Marianna Massey

PJ Morton 26

Entertainment calendar 24

Persona Biz Retailer’s Favorite Season 30

Chris Rose March of the Bachelorettes 32

Modine Gunch Lap Lander 34

Joie d’Eve Cranky Christmas 36

In Tune Giving Through Music 38

Chronicles Visiting St. Nicholas 40

Home Forever Home 42 holiday jewelry, p. 60



In Every Issue

Best of DIning


Our 2018 Picks 46

Sweet Potato in the Gumbo 14

Speaking Out Head Turners Fine Jewelry Gifts 60 by Andy Myer

Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon 18

Julia Street Questions and Answers About Our City 20

Streetcar A Julia Street Christmas 112

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DIAL 12, D1 The awardwinning drama series, “Call The Midwife,” will air its Christmas special on WYES-TV/ Channel 12 on Christmas Day at at 8:00 p.m. The new series including eight episodes will premiere upon WYES in 2019. For all WYES program and event information go to

The Menu Table Talk The Munch Factory 66

Restaurant Insider News from the Kitchens 68

Food Christmas Revival 70

Last Call Sippin’ Santa 72

Dining Guide Listings by Neighborhood 74


Sweet Potato In The Gumbo Life, as we know it, is divided into

two groups; those who eat sweet potatoes with their gumbo and those who do not. Granted, though I have no official figures, I suspect that the division is lopsided toward the non-potato people, but that is only because of geography and cultural walls. In the coming age of the new enlightenment, everyone will eat sweet potato with their gumbo. Meanwhile, here is what the non-believers are missing. Sweet potato provides a perfect, and healthy, complement to a hearty gumbo. Here’s what you do: Peel back a freshly baked spud. (Nothing smells better than the caramelized fragrances of the vegetable as it roasts in the oven.) Leave on some of the skin to preserve the syrupy flavor. Plop the potato in the gumbo. Then, as you devour the gumbo, every so often scarf up a spoon’s worth of the potato which provides a sweet counterpoint to the gamey, saltier flavor of the gumbo itself. Note: There are some people who prefer to keep their sweet potato in a plate to the side and to actually peel it entirely beforehand. That’s allowed, but it is like eating crawfish without sucking he heads. You just don’t get the full flavor. There is one sanctioned exception to the sweet potato rule, but it is geo-specific. In St. Martin parish, where, incidentally, the Evangeline Oak is, the tradition is to use potato salad. Like the sweet potato, a St. Martiner will plop a scoop of the salad in the center of the bowl and nibble off of its as though it was a yam. The taste counterpoint is different; spicy rather than sweet, but a good gumbo can be enjoyed in 1 4 december 2018

many ways. Doing it right is influenced very much by being in Louisiana where the fields are ripe with sweet potatoes and where the bayous and swamps provide the ingredients for a seafood gumbo, and where sausage making was enhanced by early German settlers. In this, our dining issue, gumbo is but one of the many dishes that make our restaurants great, but it is the rare dish that is so Louisiana by nature and has its own style in the city (Creole) and in the country (Cajun). There are a few other considerations which are matters of personal taste: Don’t mix meat in seafood gumbo; conversely keep the seafood out of meat gumbos. File or Okra? I prefer the latter because it has a heartier flavor and thickens the soup so that it can be eaten with a fork. There is one more ingredient that is as native of Louisiana as the sweet potato: hot sauce. I vote yes, but just a few splashes. Also: It really enhances a sweet potato.

meet the sales staff

Kate Henry Sales Manager (504) 830-7216

Claire Cummings Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7250

Rachel Webber Account Executive (504) 830-7249

Meggie Schmidt Account Executive (504) 830-7220

Colleen Monaghan Vice President of Sales (504) 830-7215

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speaking out

there is politics, and wherever there is politics, there is usually a fight of some sort as competing interests want more of the share. With fights come words and accusations. In the United States there were many periods of divisiveness, including the rise of Jacksonian Democracy and the fall of the old ruling class; prohibition, which created gang warfare; Civil rights riots; Vietnam war protests. The Cold War? The thought of Russians on the nuclear triggers make the thought of Russians on Google seem absolutely mild. We have no evidence that politics today is more negative than ever before (indeed we think not); what’s different is that we are inundated with the negativity from 24-hour cable news; the internet Then And Now and politically pointed talk radio. In their older ages, Jefferson and Adams renewed their former During the early days of this country, two the nation. The two men were Thomas Jefferson friendships and became incessant Washington politicians had this to say about each and John Adams, patriots who had stood together letter- writers commenting to each other: in creating the Declaration of Independence and, other. Their 14-year corresponOne referred to the other as having a “hideous with home addresses in Virginia and Massachusetts dence has been a treasure trove of hermaphroditical character, which has neither the respectively, united the northern and southern ends information to historians. In one force and firmness of a man, nor the gentleness and of the colonies. But by the 1800s with a government of American history’s most ironic sensibility of a woman.” formed and everyday politics running its course, the anecdotes’ both died the same day, July 4, 1826, which happened In response, the supporters of the maligned man two were bitter enemies. Jefferson and Adams come to mind to be the 50th anniversary referred to the accuser as being “a mean-spirited, low-lived fellow, the son of a half-breed Indian in looking at the politics of the recent of Independence Day. squaw, sired by a Virginia mulatto father.” times. Once again, the rhetoric is ugly, An original Jefferson’s final words ©Mike Luckovich Like boxers trading counter-punches, the second though not so far as referring to one Cartoon for New were, “Thomas Jefferson man was in turn labeled as “a fool, a hypocrite, a person as ‘hermaphroditical.” Calling Orleans Magazine still survives.” (Actually, the other person, a “half-breed Indian Jefferson had died five hours criminal, and a tyrant.” In retaliation the first man was characterized as squaw sired by a mulatto” could today end the earlier.) A relationship that had been, at different times, a close a “weakling, an atheist, a libertine, and a coward.” accuser’s career. Happening early in the country’s history, this Still, there is plenty contemporary ugliness to friendship and a bitter rivalry name- calling has been referred to as the birth of go around. Where today’s words might not be ended. Political battles, fought by negative politics. The war of words could not have as biting, the ways of spreading those words are others, would continue. It can all be annoying, though gotten much uglier, which is ironic since one of the endless. Imagine if Thomas Jefferson had had a men would be renowned for his skill with eloquent Twitter account. Facebook? Would the Adams people wars of word are superior ways of words of a universal importance and the others have used it to spread the Sally Hemmings rumor? settling disagreements than wars would be remembered for his persistence in creating Throughout history wherever there is government, of tanks and bombs.

Negative Politics


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julia street with poydras the parrot

Riverboat Tchefuncte menu (1970s) (Madisonville, La.) Front cover and Inside view of menu. Courtesy of the Historic New Orleans Collection. Gift of Richard and Rima Collin

Dear Julia and Poydras, My late mother-in-law lived on the northshore near Covington and loved to eat out, whether for a garden club luncheon or for dinner. Back in the ‘70s, she often used to talk about going to a floating French restaurant that was well-known at the time. Do you have any idea where that may have been? I think it was in Mandeville but it could have been in Madisonville. Jane DeSonnier (New Orleans) Did your mother-in-law ever mention the famous chef/owner or that the restaurant Riverboat Tchefuncte was acutally a barge moored on its namesake river in Madisonville? The vessel, which had been converted into the Riverboat Tchefuncte restaurant, was a not a once-grand paddle-wheeler as its name might imply – it was a cargo barge the Nashville Bridge Company had built in 1939 as CBC-701. The similarlynamed diesel pipe line dredge Tchefuncta had served the Jahncke company since 2 0 december 2018

about 1930 and appears to have still been working when the restaurant was created. Although also based in Madisonville, the dredge Tchefuncta and the barge-based restaurant were two different vessels. The Riverboat Tchefuncte’s owner and chef, René Nicolas, formerly served as Executive Chef at the Roosevelt Hotel, which was justifiably proud of having recruited him in 1962. An internationallyknown chef, Nicolas had previously worked for famed Parisian restaurants Maxim’s and Le Crillon. A decade after his New Orleans debut, Nicolas launched his own floating seafood restaurant moored on the shore of the Tchefuncte River at Highway 190 in Madisonville, dubbing it the Riverboat Tchefuncte. The restaurant garnered a loyal following but was later sold and moved to Killian, where it operated as the Riverside Tavern and Oyster Bar; it sank at its mooring in January 1990.

Dear Julia, Do you remember the soap place in Uptown Square? I think it was local. I spent many happy afternoons in there. The scents in there were simply amazing. Renee Smith (Metairie)

have a question for julia? Send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Errol@ MyNewOrleans. com.

In the mid-1970s, Jacquee Leone opened an antique store at 834 Chartres but soon converted the space into The Soap Gallery. The store specialized in high-quality brand-name European and domestic soaps and grooming supplies, most of which were made with pure essential oils and botanical extracts. A second location soon opened in Uptown Square, a new shopping center, which had opened at Broadway and Leake in 1977. It is that location which I remember best, perhaps because the incredible scents wafting though the store did not have to compete with French Quarter aromas of a less appealing nature.


chris granger photo

Music Artist PJ Morton


December Our top picks for this month’s events by Fritz Esker

Christmas in Lafreniere Park

From December 1-30, Lafreniere Park in Metairie hosts a beautiful light display with a 60-foot sea serpent in its lagoon, a castle, gingerbread man, Saints players, a Lombardi Trophy and much more. There’s also a carousel for kids at $1 per ride. Entrance is $5 per vehicle; it’s free on Christmas Day and Christmas Eve.

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Napoleon Dynamite Screening & Conversation with Jon Heder

On December 7, the historic Joy Theater will be screening the cult classic comedy Napoleon Dynamite. As a bonus for fans, the film’s star, Jon Heder, will be in attendance and engage the audience in a conversation and Q&A after the movie.

The Santaland Diaries

A down-on-his luck aspiring actor takes a job as an elf at Macy’s during Christmas season. There, he must contend with aggressive parents, drunken Santas, flirtatious actors, and more in this irreverent adaptation of David Sedaris’ popular non-fiction story. The play, for mature audiences, runs from November 30 to December 23 at Teatro Wego in Westwego.

Elton John: Farewell Yellow Brick Road Tour

Pop superstar Elton John, whose music has delighted generations of fans, embarks on his final tour. If you’ve never seen Sir Elton live, check him out on December 6 at the Smoothie King Center for what promises to be a memorable night.

calendar Nov. 23-Jan. 1: Celebration in the Oaks, City Park.

Dec. 8-22: Teddy Bear Tea, Stage Door Canteen.

Nov. 27-Dec. 2: On Your Feet! Saenger Theater.

Dec. 14: Cole Swindell & Dustin Lynch, Champions Square.

Nov. 28-Dec. 23: Mandatory Merriment: An Untitled Holiday Musical, Southern Rep Theater.

Dec. 15: A John Waters Christmas, Civic Theatre.

Belles Are Ringing, Stage Door Canteen.

Dec. 15: Mannheim Steamroller Christmas by Chip Davis, Saenger Theater.

Dec. 1: The Original Harlem Globetrotters, Smoothie King Center.

Dec. 15: An Evening With Harry Connick, Jr., UNO Lakefront Arena.

Dec. 2: Damian Rice, Orpheum Theater.

Dec. 15: R + L Carriers New Orleans Bowl, Mercedes-Benz Superdome.

Nov. 30-Dec. 29: Christmas

Dec. 6: Peppa Pig Live! Saenger Theater. Dec. 6: LUNA Fete, Lafayette Square. Dec. 6-8: AllState Sugar Bowl LHSAA Prep Classic, MercedesBenz Superdome. Dec. 7-23: A Christmas Carol, Le Petit Theatre. Dec. 7-8: Sesame Street Live: Let’s Party!, UNO Lakefront Arena. Dec. 8: Holiday Spectacular Featuring the 610 Stompers, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Dec. 8: New Orleans Running of the Santas, Mannings & Generations Hall. Dec. 8: Canal Place Reindeer Run & Romp and Holiday Scavenger Hunt, Canal Street.

Dec. 15-23: New Orleans Ballet Theatre - Nutcracker, Orpheum Theater. Dec. 16: Caroling in Jackson Square, Jackson Square. Dec. 18-23: Elf: The Musical, Saenger Theater. Dec. 19: Trans-Siberian Orchestra, Smoothie King Center. Dec. 20-31: NOLA Christmas Fest, Ernest N. Morial Convention Center. Dec. 22-23: The Nutcracker, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Dec. 26: Shen Yun, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Dec. 26: Moscow Ballet’s Great Russian Nutcracker, Saenger Theater. december 2018 2 5


PJ Morton Singer, songwriter, producer by Ashley McLellan

New Orleans’ own PJ Morton, singer, songwriter,

producer, Morton Records founder, and Maroon 5 keyboardist, is following up his Grammy nominated album “Gumbo” and its live version, “Gumbo Live,” with an album fit to unwrap for the holidays. Released on November 9, “Christmas with PJ Morton” puts a decidedly New Orleans, funky spin on holiday classics, such as Mariah Carey’s “All I Want for Christmas Is You,” and debuts some Morton originals, as well. Morton has collaborated with Billboard topping artists, such as Adam Levine, Lil Wayne, Busta Rhymes, India.Arie, 2 6 december 2018

and Solange, through his music, songwriting, music direction, and production. The collaboration and creativity continues into the New Year, with announcements and official news still to come. New Orleans Magazine checked in with Morton on where he’s been (on tour around the world!) and where he’s going, both creatively and personally.

Gumbo means a mixture of all types of things to make one beautiful thing patrick melon photo december 2018 2 7

Q: How did growing up in New Orleans influence you and your music? It really instilled a pride and respect for music. And as a musician, the city made me wear that as a badge of honor. Q: How it is playing in a very popular band then doing music on your own compare as an experience? It’s really the best of both worlds for me. Maroon 5 has allowed me to check many of my bucket list dreams off. Doing my own music is just a much more personal experience and connection. I’m speaking as myself in that instance.

Q: You tour extensively both across the U.S. and around the world. What are your favorite places/countries to play? I love South America and Asia. Both beautiful and the fans give so much love.

at a glance

Favorite Movie: Coming to America Favorite Album: Innervisions Favorite New Orleans restaurant: My friend’s new restaurant Morrow’s Favorite things to do when not touring: Sleep! Favorite Place for Live Music in New Orleans: House of Blues or Blue Nile Must haves when touring: My laptop and recording equipment

Q: What’s it like for you to return to New Orleans to perform? It’s home! It really feels like that. They know me. It’s just like a family reunion. Q: Tell us about your new album – what was the inspiration? Well I’ve always loved Christmas music. My family always made a big deal about Christmas and the music. I just thought it was time to do a really soulful Christmas record. I wanted to put my spin on these songs that I’ve always loved.

Q: Your album “Gumbo” was nominated for two Grammy awards. What does that recognition mean to you? The Grammys are still the biggest stage in music. And it’s voted on by your music peers. Means a lot to me. Q: What does the word “gumbo” mean to you? Gumbo means a mixture of all types of things to make one beautiful thing.

Q: Finally, a gumbo follow up – chicken and sausage or seafood gumbo, and who makes the best? Seafood gumbo with sausage. My grandmother did before she passed away.


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True Confession: I watch too much reality tv. december 2018 2 9


Retailers’ Favorite Season Surviving in a web world by Dawn Ruth Wilson

As consumers enter the home

stretch of their 2018 spending spree, optimism is running high among retailers around the U.S. The National Retail Federation expects this year’s retail sales will top 2017’s total by at least 4.5 percent. And for the holidays? Consulting giant Deloitte predicts seasonal sales of $1.1 trillion, a more-than-5-percent jump over last year’s total. Leading the spending charge, according to the consultants, are high-earning millennials, whose youthful exuberance and fat paychecks could mean they will shell out more than $2,000 each during the holiday season. Their younger brethren, known as Gen Z, and even their Gen X and Baby Boomer elders – at least those not spooked by gyrations in their 401(k)s – are also diving into the 3 0 december 2018

annual shopping ritual. As the buying edges toward a late-December pinnacle, retail analysts want the world to know that past predictions of a shopping apocalypse have fallen flat. While it’s true that consumer dynamics have shifted dramatically, driven in part by the marketing power of Amazon and other giant online sellers, the idea that physical stores would soon become obsolete was flawed. National retail data show that store openings are on the rise, with 2018 seeing a net increase of 4,000 openings as compared with last year’s total. “For each company closing a store, 2.7 companies are opening stores,” the retail federation reports. While online buying is popular, online sales still make up less than 10 percent of total retail sales, and

many of those purchases are from brands whose business is still done predominantly in physical stores. “The retailers that are doing really well are ones that have figured out how to function in both the online and brick-andmortar spaces,” said local retail analyst Beezie Landry, who heads the investment advisory service of Stirling Properties LLC. “It’s nice to be able to order online, but there are still a lot of people who want to touch and feel things before they buy.” Landry said investor interest in retail properties in and around New Orleans has helped keep his business hopping in recent years. Stirling Properties, which has a long history in retail property brokerage and management, has brokered many sales of shopping centers and single-tenant

properties, such as Walgreens and CVS drugstores, and Landry said sellers “have been doing really well.” The fact that investors see value in these properties and also have access to “cheap” capital, because of low interest rates, has generated a lot of activity across south Louisiana, he said. While some loyal customers bemoan the decline of such stalwart retailers as K-Mart and Sears, which recently sought bankruptcy protection, Landry said their demise was inevitable and, in fact, needed in order create more space for healthier businesses. “The retailers that are struggling are ones that struggled to understand what their customers were looking for,” he said. Noting that the Sears stores of today look much the same as they did 25 years ago, he stated that the company’s failure to adapt to changing tastes “or to do anything to generate new interest in what they were offering” brought Sears to its knees, and its demise has hurt some of the shopping centers it anchored. For contrast, Landry points to Lakeside Shopping Center in Metairie, which has made big investments over the years to turn the mall into a shopping destination, with restaurants, popular kiosks, family-oriented activities and, most of all, a changing mix of retailers aimed at keeping customers interested. Anchored by Macy’s and Dillard department stores, the mall features Apple and Microsoft stores, and continues to bring in new brands, including the recently opened LEGO store, which is positioned across from a Disney store. Lakeside is a good example of mall operators making good decisions, Landry says. “It also shows that retail is very much alive and well,” he added.

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chris rose

March of the Bachelorettes Party time in the Quarter by Chris Rose

It’s the holiday season. Time for all manner

of celebration and convocation. The season for friends and family. For hearth and home. More than anything else, it’s the season for... bachelorette parties? Actually, it’s always the season for bachelorette parties in New Orleans. It’s our new blooming cottage industry. An economic force. A social media phenomenon. A veritable thing. A thing worth paying attention to. If you’ve spent any amount of time in the French Quarter over the past few years, this is 3 2 december 2018

no surprise to you. It’s the bachelorettes’ world; we just live in it. They are ubiquitous, unmistakable, unabashed, un-nuanced and unavoidable: Gaggles of young women in matching customized T-shirts printed with lewd phrases, clustering on sidewalks, clenching glow-inthe-dark beverages, clutching their pearls (well, Mardi Gras beads, really), staring into their devices and then staring off in all directions wondering which way to go next. Most likely to Cat’s Meow or Pat O’s. They laugh, they shriek, they stumble a little and they spend a lot. Bars, restaurants, hotels, fashion boutiques, salons, day spas, ghost tours, limos, Jell-o shots, 5-Hour Energy drinks, feather boas, Mardi Gras beads and … matching lewd Ts. So profound is the phenomenon that the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau has an account executive charged exclusively with the coordination of bachelorette parties, bachelor parties and weddings. What a cool job, right? “It’s something that’s exploding, that’s for sure,” said Rachel Funel, the aforementioned NOCVB specialist, about the bachelorette party thing. “We’re pretty heavy with it. It’s more in your face, more out there than it’s ever been. A lot of those 25 to 35 age groups of women. It’s a bucket list for a lot of them.” To what does Funel attribute this recent growth of New Orleans’ bachelorette party industry? “Pinterest,” she said, and she’s not kidding. “Social media is driving it as much as anything else.” Girls go wild. Girls post pics. Girls share pics. Girls follow other girls. To New Orleans. As someone who makes his living walking around the French Quarter (giving music history tours that bachelorette parties are generally not interested in), I have witnessed the explosion of this phenomenon over the past few years. I pass them all the time, weaving chains of women holding hands, gawking, glaring, giggling. They are benign. They are goofy. They are having fun. They are spending money. And they will love this city forever because of their adventures here with their best friends, celebrating the hopefulness

of youth and the promise of love eternal. OK, that might be a stretch, but there’s nothing wrong with optimism. Everyone’s a winner, right? So I went online to see what’s the buzz about all this, if it’s just my imagination (or fascination?) or whether bachelorette parties are indeed a new and expansive trend in New Orleans. And I found a trove of websites, blogs, reviews and other platforms testifying to New Orleans’ optimal destination site for bachelorette parties. And every one of them was dated from either 2017 or 2018. offers a guide to day drinking for bachelorette parties in New Orleans. notes: “No shortage of male strippers!” (Exclamation point mine.) And on it goes. If you’ve got a free hour, Google “New Orleans Bachelorette Party” and feast your mind. Some cities are rising on tech. Some are reinvigorating manufacturing. Donald Trump says some are embracing coal. New Orleans, we’ve got the brides. It’s only fair that women finally got their own city to blow off steam before The Big Day, a place to bond with besties, cut loose, flirt with strangers, act a little stupid, eat things they would probably not eat back home and do things they probably would not do back home. But for the final word on this, I turned to my friend mikko, the lower-case, mononymous New Orleans writer and French Quarter tour guide, who encounters this phenomenon nightly and takes a dimmer view than myself or the CVB. “These ladies arrive in matching pink T-shirts with plastic penises blinking on their heads, fishbowl drinks hanging from their necks, they laugh at inappropriate times, loudly telephone the two friends that didn’t make the trip saying how awesome the tour is, eventually heave out an “I love you so-ho-ho much!” between sobs on the bride-to-be’s shoulder, and then leave the tour abruptly just before the tip speech.” And so it goes. What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas. What happens in the French Quarter is, mercifully, often forgotten.


Jason Raish Illustration december 2018 3 3

modine gunch

When my little niece says “no,”

she means “NONONONO!” She is NOT going to sit on Santa Claus’s lap. Flambeau is only nine months old, but she makes her point, and she makes it loud. I respect that. But I got a problem. Flambeau’s mama, my sister-in-law Gloriosa, really, REALLY wants this picture. And Gloriosa don’t take NONONONONO for an answer. She is unfortunately getting a root canal at the moment, so I decided to be Ms. Nice Aunt and bring her kids for their annual Santa picture. It is supposed to hang from a red ribbon in her North Pole display, with every other Santa picture since Comus, her oldest, was born. Comus and his sister Momus are sweating in their velvet Christmas outfits, dying to get this over with. But they are old enough to grasp the connection between this and presents under the tree. Plus, they understand that come hell or high water, Gloriosa WILL record every moment of their childhood. Resistance is futile. I got to explain. Gloriosa was the last baby in the Gunch family. This was before iPhones, so you had to find the camera and check for film just to snap a picture. When 3 4 december 2018

Lap Lander Saga of the Santa Picture by Modine Gunch

you have a lot of babies —and her mama, Ms. Larda, had five — this don’t happen a lot. Luckily, Gunch babies all look alike, bald and drooly — seen one, seen ‘em all. So whenever Gloriosa asked to see her baby pictures, Ms. Larda got out pictures of some baby, and beamed, and said, “You were such a beautiful baby.” Which was true—even if she wasn’t the baby in the pictures. When Sister Felicia asked Gloriosa’s First Communion class to bring in their baptismal pictures for catechism show-andtell. Gloriosa noticed that in her picture, the family posing in front of church holding a baby-sized bundle were wearing overcoats. But Gloriosa was baptized in July. Her baptismal certificate said so. And she was always suspicious of the five framed baby pictures on the living room wall. They all looked like the same baby.

Well, that wasn’t how it was going to be with Gloriosa’s children. And when Flambeau arrived, Gloriosa leaned over her bassinet, looked at that head of spiky red hair, and promised that, even if she was youngest, and her mama was very tired, she would still have pictures of her own self at every important occasion. But it ain’t happening at this occasion. “No means no,” says Comus. Like I said, he’s a smart boy. “It also means we got to put on these stupid velvet outfits and come back and try again,” Momus says. “I know my mama.” Just then, a lady pushes a stroller into the Santa line. I look at the red hair sticking out her baby blanket and wish our redhead was that peaceful. Then the baby leaps up and barks. It’s a Yorkshire terrier. Desperation is the mother of

insane ideas. I offer this lady a deal. We will pay for her doggie’s Santa picture, then we’ll get a picture of the dog— named Lucy— with Santa, Comus and Momus. Lucy will have her back to the camera, like she is looking up at Santa, and will wear Flambeau’s little green sweater. The picture will show just the sweater and the red hair. And Santa agrees to this. He ain’t stupid. Lucy is less likely to bite than Flambeau. The picture turns out okay, but I doubt Gloriosa will be fooled. Then Comus pipes up, “Aunt Modine, we could photoshop Flambeau into that picture. That will look better than the back of a redheaded dog.” Photoshop. Of course. That’s how 6-year-olds think these days. We prop Flambeau on a red cushion at my house, get her to giggling, and take pictures. My daughter Gladiola shows up, and she and Comus do computer magic and replace Lucy with Flambeau, laughing into the camera. Maybe it’s the Novocain, but Gloriosa just loves this picture. In a couple years, Flambeau will scowl at it and ask why Santa is dangling a Milk-Bone over her head. Wonder how Gloriosa will explain that.




Cranky Christmas Squelching my inner Scrooge By Eve Crawford Peyton

I don’t like being a negative

person, but while the holidays seem to bring out cheer and joy in some people, they seem to make me crankier than usual. I’m a Grinch. I’m a Scrooge. I’m the exact opposite of people who put antlers on their cars and decorate their offices. Sure, I like hanging up my sister’s wreath, and I enjoy the occasional peppermint mocha, but by and large, I don’t care about getting presents, I hate spending money, crowds make me anxious, and traffic makes me furious. I have class parties to plan and holiday potlucks to bake for, and all of my crafts and cookies inevitably end up as Pinterest fails (my Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer Nutter Butters a few years back looked so demonic that they would’ve been much more suitable for Halloween than Christmas). And I have definite mixed feelings about Santa – I love watching how magical it is for Georgia, and it’s sweet, too, seeing Ruby get in on the act. I gave her the whole “Santa is real because we are all

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Santa” talk several years ago, and she takes her responsibility toward Georgia very seriously. I don’t, however, feel great about lying to my kid, and Ruby has enlisted her dad to play Santa over the phone for Georgia, which means my ex-husband is saying, “Merry Christmas, ho-ho-ho” to my kid with another guy, and that’s a level of awkward that I don’t really relish in my life. Besides that, Georgia is too smart to really be fooled. “That’s your dad, Sissy!” she yelled at the phone. “No, it’s Santa!” Ruby insisted. “He just … has a cold.” “Uh, I have to go now,” said my ex. “Uh, be a good girl, Georgia. I’m going to go eat cookies with Mrs. Claus.” Then his new girlfriend called back, adopted a goofy accent, and claimed to be Mrs. Claus, and Georgia ran in circles yelling, “Tell the reindeer I love them! Bring me a Bitty Baby! I love you, Mrs. Claus!” and it was adorable and so kind of both my ex and his girlfriend – but also bizarre, with

a side of how is this happening not available for purchase online in my life right now??? or within 100 miles of me. As far as shopping, the one Of course, though, I need to toy Ruby wants is not available refocus. To get my head on straight for online purchase or within 100 and remember what’s important. miles of me, and the toys Georgia We’re all happy and healthy this wants changes every single day holiday season, even with the based on whatever unboxing video inherent challenges of blended she’s most recently watched on families and the stresses of being a working mom and YouTube. Then, too, we have the shortcomings of Excerpted from Eve the fact that Ruby’s Crawford Peyton’s the Target website. I’m never going birthday is four days blog, Joie d’Eve, which before Christmas, which appears each Friday on to be the kind of means I have to try to person who puts figure out what’s even cool to antlers on my car – although I send (she’s in middle school now, love it if you love it – but I also so she says cupcakes aren’t cool am going to try to be less of a anymore) and also means that I Scrooge. can disappoint her twice by failing It’s my December resolution. to get the one toy she wants that is God bless us, one and all.


jane sanders illustration december 2018 3 7

in tune

must-see music dec. 1

Walter Wolfman Washington celebrates his birthday at Tipitina’s. dec. 6

Elton John pops into the Smoothie King Center.

Harry Connick Jr.

dec. 12

Tank and the Bangas bring the funk to Tipitina’s. dec. 14

Swearin’ rocks Gasa Gasa. dec. 15

John Waters camps out at the Joy.

Giving Through Music

dec. 15

Ellis Marsalis wows the Jazz and Heritage Center.

Harry Connick, Jr.’s celebration tour by Mike Griffith

There are always great ways musicians play in providing the to celebrate the holidays in New soundtrack for life in New Orleans. Orleans. This year we have a truly It is no surprise then that the Center special event as Harry Connick, was founded by two of the most Jr. will bring his Tricentennial prominent locals on the national Celebration tour home with an stage—Branford Marsalis and Harry evening at the UNO Arena on Connick, Jr. I reached out to both December 15. Connick’s shows for their thoughts on the role of the are generally non-stop high energy Center in the community and their affairs and this night will celebrate personal connections to its mission. both the city and the season so it For Branford, the Center is a space seems safe to assume there will of preservation that “will ensure a number of surprises, as well as that generations of musicians the old favorites. benefit from our cultural heroes, This show will and that their wisdom and also serve as a spirit will illuminate the benefit for the Ellis Playlist of mentioned music of the future.” For his Marsalis Center for bands available part, Connick immediately at: Music at Musicians’ InTune12-18 gravitated to the celebratory Village. The Center nature of our music, “I think was born along with the Village of the Center everyday - especially in the aftermath of Katrina as a on this tour - and I smile because I way of supporting the vital role know that it will ensure that more

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dec. 19

generations of musicians will be able to celebrate New Orleans on stage, too.” Taken together these sentiments are a great model for the sort of stewardship that will keep our local traditional vital through new generations of music. We are already seeing great new sounds from groups like People Museum and Hurray for the Riff Raff, which have a decidedly local component at their core. The key is giving performers a space where they can play and develop. As Connick observed, “Had such a facility existed when I was a boy, I would have been here every day.” You have a chance to support this excellent work, while doing a bit of celebrating both for the city and the season—don’t miss this chance to start your holiday off right.


The Trans-Siberian Orchestra shreds the Smoothie King Center. dec. 21

Flow Tribe brings their Christmas Crunktacular to Tipitina’s. dec. 30

Kermit Ruffins starts the New Years Celebrations at Tipitina’s.

Dates are subject to change; email Mike@ or contact him through Twitter @Minima. december 2018 3 9


Visiting St. Nicholas (in New Orleans) by Carolyn Kolb

The favorite Saint of the

Christmas season is a year-round resident of our city, with two churches, icons and stained glass windows honoring him. “Well, you don’t really see another Saint pictured with a money bag…” Deacon Gregory Haddad, from Houma, spoke with a soft Cajun accent as he explained why a small stained glass window could be identified with St. Nicholas, even without a nameplate. The money bag refers to the miracle of St. Nicholas anonymously providing dowries to poor girls, so they could marry. The window was displayed inside the sanctuary of the St. Nicholas of Myra Byzantine Catholic Mission on Carrollton Avenue just off Claiborne. There was also a large 4 0 december 2018

icon of the Saint, as well as a small, older icon of him. St. Nicholas was a Bishop of Myra, once a Greek settlement but now located in Turkey, in the fourth century. His bones were taken to Bari, Italy, in the eleventh century. By that time he was already venerated in Germany and was a well-known Saint throughout Europe. Father George Wilson of the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Cathedral in New Orleans noted that the story of St. Nicholas is part of children’s religious instruction. Not only did St. Nicholas give dowries to the poor girls, he did it anonymously, throwing bags of coins in the window. Only when the family hid to see their benefactor did they learn it was the kindly bishop. The Greek Orthodox Cathedral’s

icon of St. Nicholas was painted by Iconographer Laurence Manos, who studied iconography at the Mt. Athos Spiritual Center in Greece, and donated by Spiron & Sandy Bouzon and family. St. Nicholas is also honored with a stained glass window at St. Mary’s Assumption Catholic Church (of St. Alphonsus Parish) in what was once the Irish Channel but today is the Lower Garden District. It was the German church of the Redemptorist priests (St. Alphonsus was Irish, and what began as the French church is now St. Mary’s Chapel on Jackson Avenue.) The St. Nicholas window is closest to the altar on the right hand side as you enter the sanctuary. The lower half of the window appears to picture Jesus teaching in the

temple as a boy. The upper half has St. Nicholas as a bishop. Pictured with him are three little children peering over the edge of a wooden barrel. St. Nicholas performed a miracle when an evil butcher had chopped up the children and put them in a pickle barrel. When the Saint appeared before him, the butcher confessed and repented. St. Nicholas restored the children, whole again, to life. St. Nicholas’ feast day is December 6, when children traditionally set out their shoes for him to fill with gifts. In the Netherlands, he traditionally rides a white horse. In America, of course, St. Nicholas is still with us, somewhere in the background of Santa Claus. Best of all, he still brings gifts.


photograph courtesy of Very Reverend Father George Wilson, Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Cathedral, New Orleans december 2018 4 1


Forever Home Liz and Al Copeland Jr. entertain on a legendary site. by Lee Cutrone photographed by Greg Miles

With only one of their five

grown daughters still at home, Liz and Al Copeland, Jr. considered downsizing from the Kenner home they built for their family in 1999. But their family-centric lifestyle and the importance of their family legacy changed their course. Instead, they built a larger home on the Lakefront property that was previously the site of Al Copeland Sr.’s house (known to locals for its annual display of Christmas lights) with the intent of making it a hub for entertaining family and friends. In addition to having five daughters, the couple

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have a sixth grandchild on the way and often host philanthropic events. Toward the end of Al Sr.’s life, his Lakefront house had fallen into disrepair. Al Jr. suggested the Copeland family, who inherited the house, tear it down and approached the Jefferson Parish Council with the proposal of building and donating an Al Copeland memorial park for public use. Ultimately the idea was rejected and the lot sat empty for four years. Riding bikes on the levee one day, Al and Liz stopped at the location and discussed buying out the other owners and building

what Al alternately calls their forever house and their “lifetime achievement home.” The idea checked all of the boxes on the couple’s wish list. It was on the water, a must for Al who grew up connected to water sports and racing, it was spacious and it was connected to Al Copeland Sr., a larger-than-life family patriarch who founded world famous Popeyes chicken. Al, who worked alongside his father for years, now heads Copeland’s three divisions: manufacturing, hotels and restaurants. Liz is an executive within the businesses

The living room has a calming palette of whites and neutrals; the stone around the fireplace was chosen to match the counters in the adjacent kitchen, while the stone surrounding the fireplace on the opposite side of the wall was chosen to match the nearby bar.

that she and her husband own together. The couple hired Baton Rouge architect Dwayne Carruth of The Front Door design studio and builder Adam Bertuglia of Creative Builders and made only a few minor changes during the building process. An imposing structure with a raised porch, huge columns and decorative wrought iron, it includes more than 10,000 square feet, resort-like amenities and sentimental details linked to Al Sr.

Although larger than their Kenner house, which contained seven bedrooms and eight and a half baths, this house has only three bedrooms (the master and two for grand-children) and more of an emphasis on the downstairs public spaces. The main living areas flow openly, yet each is designed to feel like a separate zone. “Our plan was to have different experiences in the house and we did that intentionally,” the Copelands said.

Left: A streamlined kitchen with a professional grade stove is open to the living and dining areas, allowing the couple to indulge their love of cooking while interacting with family and friends; acrylic bar stools provide seating at the roomy island topped with white marble. Top right: The Copelands built on the site that was previously home to Al Copeland Sr.’s house, known to locals for its annual Christmas light display; architecture, Dwayne Carruth of The Front Door design studio in Baton Rouge; landscaping, Tropical Pools and Palms. Bottom, left: Liz and Al Copeland, Jr. december 2018 4 3

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Facing page: Top, left: The home gym features a vaulted wood ceiling and a boxing ring. Top, right: The bar has a window on one side that enables guests to be served outside. Bottom, left: A custom wine room is stocked with wines that Al Jr. collects. Bottom, right: Al Jr.’s glossy-floored garage is used to store racecars, motorcycles and racing memorabilia. This page: The outdoor living room and kitchen overlooking the pool offer outdoor views with indoor comforts’; the wide casement opening has a motorized screen that can be lowered when necessary. The decking around the pool, designed by Tropical Pools & Palms, is travertine and the hot tub is surrounded with glass mosaic tiles; the fire bowls and water fountains provide a relaxing focal point – especially at night.

What really sets the house apart though is its luxe amenities. There is a fully equipped home gym, which husband and wife use regularly; a pool with state-of-the-art lighting, fire bowls, and fountains; an outdoor kitchen complete with deep fryers for Al’s own fried chicken recipe; an outdoor living room with fireplace, tv and a screen that can be lowered when necessary; a massage room, a streamlined commercial-grade kitchen where the Copelands can indulge their love of cooking, a pool room, a bar with a window that can be opened to serve guests outside, a prep kitchen for catering, a wine room, a glossy-floored garage where Al, a competitive race-car driver, stores and showcases his racecars, awards and racing memorabilia; and both a playroom and a craft room for the

grandchildren. Initialized gates on either side of the house were salvaged from Al Sr.’s house and cut down to fit the new home. The front doors were custom-made to mimic the gates. Liz worked with interior designer Monique Roy-Cooper of Modern Flooring & Interiors (the two also collaborated on the Kenner house) to create a transitional interior set against a calming white backdrop. “I told Monique I wanted everything white,” Liz said. “I look at the house as a canvas knowing that I could add whatever I wanted to.” During the Christmas season, Liz decorates the exterior and interior for both the family’s Christmas gatherings, as well as the Al Copeland Foundation fundraiser that the couple hosted last year and plan to make an

annual event. Al and his siblings started the foundation in 2008 to find a cure for cancer, which took the life of their father. All proceeds from the invitation-only party go to fund immunotherapy studies and treatment at LSU Health Sciences Center. To date, the foundation has raised $1.8 million for the initiative. The Copelands’ Christmas decorations are much simpler than their predecessors’. Al Sr.’s lights now are displayed at Lafreniere Park, while Liz opts for ribbons on doors and a Christmas tree that forgoes ornaments in favor of lights only. Yet both the house and the party are tributes that would make Al Sr. proud. “This house is all about legacy and about prolonging legacy,” said Al Jr. “That’s very important to us.”

. december 2018 4 5

Best of

Dining New Orleanians think about and enjoy food… a lot. We plan lunch while eating breakfast, think about dinner while enjoying lunch, and constantly compare notes on which new restaurant, tavern, sweet shop and more to check out next. ¶ For our December issue, our trio of restaurant writers, plus our editorial staff, gathered to choose a select few to honor for the year…a discussion that could go on and on. Narrowing the choices may have been a challenge, but we made all selections with no reservations.

p h o t o g r a p h y by m a r i a n na m a s s e y


Best Traditional French

There was a time when French cuisine was the apex of fine dining, but in the last 20 or 30 years, a revolution in the food world brought other world cuisines to the forefront, and chefs began to abandon French recipes. ¶ It was a sea change, and largely to the benefit of diners, but French food was on top for a reason, and it’s fantastic to see a new restaurant serving serious French fare on the scene. That restaurant is Couvant Bar & Brasserie, in the Eliza Jane hotel, where chef Brad McDonald hews to a classic bistro menu, executed with reverence and flair. ¶ The menu is divided into four sections: Amuse, First Course, Main Course and Sides, and McDonald has chosen to focus on a select number of dishes rather than trying to run the gamut of the repertoire. Because McDonald has chosen wisely, however, one never feels limited. ¶ The standards are here: Pissaladiere, the caramelized onion tart with anchovies; escargot with parsley butter; a quiche that changes daily and moules frites, the traditional pairing of the shellfish with fries. At dinner there are two choices for the beef in the “steak frites,” filet or onglet, the flavorful cut we call “hanger steak.” ¶ Dining at Couvant reminds one why French cuisine gained its reputation, and thus we’re delighted to name Couvant the French Restaurant of the Year for 2018. - Robert Peyton


Couvant Bar & Brasserie, 317 Magazine Street, 324-5400,

Mixologist of the Year

It is often said that you either “get” New Orleans or you don’t. Many who don’t, complain endlessly about the strange idiosyncrasies of life in the city. Those unhappy souls eventually leave. ¶ But for those who embrace a lifestyle that is not fully American, the joy of being an actor in a big production is unending. Even hurricanes can’t chase these willing participants away. ¶ Chris Hannah arrived in town in 2004. He had roamed to many places thanks to his father’s assignments in the Navy. He knew very early in his New Orleans’ life that he was never leaving this place. He did indeed have a role to play, sometimes even in costume. ¶ His career goal was to participate in the hospitality industry, likely as an innkeeper. But the fulfillment he personally felt in preparing proper cocktails and the atmosphere he enjoyed from being one of the people Jewel of the South, 1026 St. who was at the Louis Street. center of the party every night was too much to leave. For 14 years, a remarkable span of time in an industry renowned for staff movement, the French 75 bar at Arnaud’s suited Chris perfectly. ¶ He has recently co-invested with master cocktail craftsman, Nick Detrich, in a new project, an authentic Cuban-style watering hole, Manolito, 508 Dumaine Street, which has become for Chris an opening act for his and Detrich’s showpiece place, a rebirth of a legendary cocktail destination, Jewel of the South. This is the year that the curtain goes up on Jewel. - Tim McNally

Chris Hannah

Chef of the Year

Edgar Caro

Edgar Caro came to New Orleans to study graphic design in college, but before long he fell in love with our food culture. He opened his first restaurant, Baru, when he was 24 and missing the food of Cartagena, his home town. ¶ Chef Caro has no formal training; he’s learned by doing. He’s not apologetic about being self-taught because he has memories of his grandmother’s cooking, and that gives him a base of experience that few chefs – regardless of their training – can match. Still, opening a restaurant at that age was a gamble, and chef Caro admitted to me that he didn’t really know what he was doing at the time. ¶ He had issues finding ingredients initially, but worked with local Latin grocers and visited farmers’ markets to get the products he needed to do Columbian food justice. He developed recipes on the fly in the kitchen when he opened Baru, which he now recognizes was not the most efficient method. ¶ “I’m still learning,” he told me, though at this point he operates four restaurants in the area: Baru, one of the only restaurants in the country that serves food from the northern coast of

Colombia; Basin Seafood and Spirits, which grew out of the chef’s love of fishing; Brasa Churrasqueria, a South American steakhouse; and Zócalo, a more casual Mexican restaurant. ¶ For a guy who didn’t know what he was doing, he’s done pretty well. ¶ That’s because chef Caro combines determination and hard work with a passion for what he does. If you speak to him for any length of time, you’ll see him light up when talking about food and cooking. He’s still in the kitchen just about every day, too. His dedication has garnered loyalty from his staff; his team at Baru has been with him for 10 years or more, and he told me that the staff at Basin “puts their heart and soul” into the food they cook. ¶ Chef Caro makes food that’s true to his inspirations, but he’s willing to be accommodating. He recently put fajitas on the menu at Zócalo, for example, because he wants to please his customers and he understands that a diner who comes in for something familiar might also try something different and learn from the experience. It’s the same philosophy that’s served him well at Baru and Brasa. - RP

Baru, 3700 Magazine Street, 895-2225; Basin Seafood and Spirits, 3222 Magazine Street, 302-7391,; Brasa Churrasqueria, 2037 Metairie Road, 570-6338,; Zocalo, 2051 Metairie Road, 252-9327,

Cookbooks of the Year

Pascal’s Manale Cookbook and Chasing the Gator It has been a big year for cookbooks, but there are a pair that stand out. More than a collection of recipes, these two take deep dives into the families and personalities of their subject matter. Together they contribute greatly to the body of knowledge that makes up our city’s culinary heritage. ¶ In Pascal’s Manale Cookbook: A Family Tradition, author Poppy Tooker explores the colorful history of New Orleans’ second-oldest, continually operating family-owned restaurant, shedding light on the under-sung role Italian immigrants have played in the evolution of the New Orleans restaurant landscape. With a flavor palette featuring red sauce, anchovies and pasta, theirs is a comforting style of cooking more suited to the family dinner table than the opulent French Creole dining rooms of the Quarter.

Detailed research, vintage photos, photography by Sam Hanna and the accommodation of the Pascal’s Manale family make the book come alive. Recipes for classics such as the original BBQ Shrimp, Stuffed Tufoli and their Combination Pan Roast are just a few of the highlights. ¶ In Chasing the Gator, the focus shifts to Acadiana and the larger-than-life persona of Isaac Toups. Writer Jennifer Cole helps to channel Toups’ singular personality, regaling the reader with stories from hunting camps and backyard boucheries. We learn about the distinctions between Prairie and Coastal Cajun traditions and how each used what the land gave them to create some of the finest, most idiosyncratic cuisine in America. Recipes span the gamut, but this book is not recommended for vegetarians. - jay forman

Honor Roll

While large corporations dominate the restaurant scene nationally, diners in New Orleans correctly continue to patronize single-location, chef-driven, family-owned restaurants. Other cities seem to follow the bigger-isbetter model. Around here such is not the case. ¶ Fausto’s in Metairie is the perfect poster-child for the way things are and have been. Offering a menu that reflects the Old Country heritage of Mama and Papa, the Fausto brothers, Rolando and Fausto Di Pietro, every day live up to the way things were when they were growing up. Why mess with perfection in culinary choices? ¶ Most of the recipes still featured are from their mother, and, while a few modifications have been made to expand the menu, the strong Italian Fausto’s Bistro, and Sicilian family 530 Veterans heritage of the Memorial Blvd., brothers are reflect833-7121, ed on every plate. The ingredients are authentic, and the preparation styles are essentially what these sincere restaurateurs have known all of their lives. ¶ Many of the specialties have remained unchanged for 25 years. Arancini, eggplant in carrozza, veal vittorio, rigatoni melenzane, manicotti, fettuccini carbonara, veal saltimbocca, rigatoni nocerina, and the fettuccini carciofo, all put the diner of mind that the street in front of the restaurant is not Metairie’s Veterans Boulevard but rather could be the Viale Galatea in Palermo. ¶ Most cities don’t have such dining emporiums where every dish properly honors a family’s name and legacy. Fausto and Rolando share their heritage every day. - TM


Restaurant of the Year

Saba There are lots of reasons why Saba is special, many of which are unrelated to its cooking. Its parent company, Pomegranate Hospitality, was formed by Alon Shaya in the aftermath of his highprofile split with John Besh. From the start Shaya was clear on what he wanted to do. “We set out to create a safe and comfortable work environment for all of our team members. Empowerment, communication, accountability and equality… These are our priorities,” Shaya said. After taking over the former Kenton’s space, he turned it in just six weeks and Saba opened in full stride. ¶ Shaya brought with him

a core of employees. Among them was Jessica Retif, his former cocktail program manager who was promoted to the role of GM. “It was a whirlwind for sure,” Retif recalled. “A new space, a new company and a new role.” Another was Chef de Cuisine Cara Peterson, who runs the kitchen. Her immediate challenge was to distinguish Saba from the place they just left while still respecting Alon Shaya’s original vision. This was accomplished by broadening the menu’s purview. “At Shaya we had these preconceived notions about not using local seafood because we wanted a version of modern Jewish cuisine,”

Peterson explained. “We put that aside when we started working on the menu for Saba. Instead of shying away from local seafood we’ve embraced it, along with other changes.” ¶ The Louisiana blue crab hummus is a case in point. Paired with a warm butter and shallot sauce and an oft-changing seasonal accompaniment (in late fall it was beech mushrooms) this dish swiftly proved a to be a breakout hit. Another is the octopus with tomato and shawarma spices. Dishes that might read as ordinary are anything but here, thanks to the quality of the ingredients used in even the simplest of preparations. Hummus is made from Rancho Gordo chickpeas, and tahini comes from Soom – a woman-owned business out of Philadelphia. The feta is Bulgarian, distinctively brined so it is crumbly rather than creamy,

with a vinegary note. ¶ Peterson’s pantry unlocks a world of spice, taste and flavor that, for most diners, is wonderfully unfamiliar. “We use nigella seeds, black caraway, Persian lime, paprika and rosebuds,” she said. “We also have date molasses, pomegranate molasses, carob molasses Saba, 5757 Magazine … every kind of molasses you can find Street, 324-7770, really.” There is lots of crossover with the bar program, so many of these flavors appear in cocktails, reinforcing the connection to the food. ¶ The hardest part about dining at Shaya, other than getting a reservation, is choosing between an array of smaller plates or committing to a family style entrée. Either way you can’t go wrong. - jf

Creole Restaurant of the Year

Neyow’s Pillars of flame erupt from a charbroiled oyster station visible from Bienville Street. A life-size, apron-clad Sky Mall Bigfoot statue mixes with the crowd of people outside enjoying drinks. A block party atmosphere which carries over into the dining room… Neyow’s is a hard place to miss. ¶ The restaurant got its start 25 years ago in owner Tanya Dubuclet’s home kitchen, where she began cooking meals to raise money for a family vacation to Astroworld. Katrina closed her first restaurant in Gentilly, but a few years later she started over with Neyow’s on the corner of Jeff Davis and Bienville. In 2016 they expanded, building out a larger space next door (Tanya’s husband Tim is a contractor) along with an event hall. It has been crazy busy ever since. ¶ Equal parts Creole restaurant, poor boy shop and

southern plate-lunch café, Neyow’s has something for everybody. “Most of these recipes were passed down from my grandmother,” Tanya said. The gumbo and shrimp etouffee are recommended, as are the stuffed shrimp and crawfish balls. Tuesday’s lunch special offers poor boys for $6.75 – a great deal. The sides, stuffing and dressing can Neyow’s Creole Café, make any meal feel like Thanksgiving 3332 Bienville Street, 827-5474, dinner (try the carrot souffle). From the bar, their Bow Wow rum punch has developed a fearsome reputation. “If you just get the fruit punch, then you are safe,” Tanya said. “But if you order the Bow Wow, that’s the one that’ll get you.” - JF

Butcher Shop of the Year

You can pretty much follow your nose to Piece of Meat, a sandwich/butcher shop on the corner of Bienville and North Rendon where owners Leighann Smith and Dan Jackson’s Black Warrior Smoker infuses the foot of Bayou St John with the scent of woodsmoke and brisket. ¶ “Dan and I were both at Cochon Butcher when we decided to strike out and start selling meat on the sidewalk,” Smith said. “Dave (Demarest) from Bayou Beer Garden heard about us and approached us about opening a butcher shop. I told him I was down with that and here we are.” ¶ A short list of specialty sandwiches includes the Not Turkey and the Wolfe’s Bologna (an inside joke as Smith and Jackson have supplied this signature cold cut since day one) made with thick-cut bologna, provolone, fried onions, lettuce and mayo on an onion bun with BBQ sauce. To sample a broader selection, tackle the charcuterie board which offers five meats. Seasonal sides such as tomato and watermelon salad, spiced with chili, red wine and vinegar, help balance things out. “Boudin Egg Rolls are our biggest seller, followed by the bologna sandwich,” Smith said. Catering options are also offered as well as an impressive case selection of steaks, chops, and smoked meats. ¶ Piece of Meat helps round out a compelling clutch of destinations that include the Bayou Beer and Wine Gardens. Happy neighborhood residents can now spend a whole weekend without having to go beyond a one-block radius for all their sustenance needs. - RP

Piece of Meat

Piece of Meat, 3301 Bienville Street, 372-2289,

Restaurateur of the Year

Robert LeBlanc

The single most defining ingredient in New Orleans’ culture is that there is no single ingredient. Our strong local culture is defined by many contributors who came to our area, lived their Old Country lives and assimilated into the melting pot that is south Louisiana. ¶ Robert LeBlanc is the perfect poster boy for New Orleans culture. He loves this city. He is not on the sidelines observing; he is a player. Yet his heritage always plays a role in his endeavors which are literally all over the global map. ¶ His roots in bayou country are French Catholic and even his name does not allow for denial of where his family’s allegiance lies. But wait. Then there’s the Irish side screaming for recognition. And there’s a bit of New England, which is not dominant, but just enough to be identifiable. ¶ His restaurants play out these themes in strong fashion. Sylvain, located at 625 Chartres in the heart of the French Quarter just off Jackson Square, is named in honor of, and is the site of, the first opera staged in New Orleans, in 1796. It wraps its Spanish Colonial surroundings, dating from 1790, in a New York- sort of bar and restaurant vibe. ¶ Meauxbar, at 942 N. Rampart Street, directly across from Armstrong Park, never forgets that at its root, it is named in

honor of the small Cajun community, Meaux, just outside of Lafayette, Louisiana. ¶ Cavan, 3607 Magazine Street, Uptown, takes its name from the Irish heritage of Leblanc’s grandfather’s native home county on the Emerald Isle. ¶ And Longway Tavern, 719 Toulouse, was, in the early 1900’s, the home of husband and wife, Roark and Mary Bradford, writers, who slept during the day and worked at night. Their home was always open to those friends who did not want to end the evening and so took the “long way” home, passing the Bradford house for just one last drink. ¶ The diversity of history suits LeBlanc’s projects. He is a private man, preferring to speak to the market about itself through his projects. Again, his love of New Orleans and south Louisiana lore and history is a tale told through food and drink evocative of who we were and who we wish to be. ¶ Ro, as he is known to his many friends, or Ro-bear, as he is known to associates, does not put himself in the front. He is happy to let his American-European heritage take the credit for his success. - TM

Sylvain, 625 Chartres Street, 2658123; Meauxbar, 942 N. Rampart Street, 569-9979,; Cavan, 3607 Magazine Street, 509-7655,; Longway Tavern, 719 Toulouse Street, 962-9696,

Head Turners

by Andy Myer photographed by theresa cassagne model Kamryn Kelly makeup MEGGAN ORY hair monique munoz

Platinum and diamond necklace featuring 35.65 total carats; 10.04 total carat platinum and princess cut diamond studs; platinum and diamond band ring in 10.28 total carats; platinum and fancy pear shape diamond ring (5.08 total carats). Adler’s, 523-5292,Â

Diamond and 18 karat yellow gold necklace by Kaufmann de Suisse; emerald and natural colored diamond earrings set in 18 karat yellow gold; Buccellati bracelet in 18k yellow textured gold with an emerald cut emerald and diamond accents; Art Deco three stone emerald cut emerald and diamond ring with black onyx accents, set in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold. HGM Fine Jewelry, 957-3409,

Sapphire and diamond necklace in 18 karat white gold, featuring 37.41 carats of sapphires and 6.40 carats of diamonds; 14 karat white gold sapphire and diamond hoop earrings with 17.50 carats of sapphires and 3.20 carats of diamonds; 18 karat white gold sapphire and diamond ring with 5.92 carats of sapphires and 6.0 carats of diamonds. Wellington & Co., 525-4855,

Opal, diamond and 14 karat white gold dangling earrings totaling 7.84 carats in opal and 1.30 carats in diamonds; 14 karat white gold, opal and diamond necklace with 35.35 carats in opal and 6.35 carats in diamonds, Boudreaux’s Jewelers, 831-2602,


jeffery johnston photo

Aunt Irma’s Hawaiian Tuna Sala

table talk

meet the chef

blackened redfish with crabmeat and buffalo oysters

The Munch Factory Former pop-up finds its place by Jay Forman

Shrimp remoulade with fried green tomatoes.

Buffalo oysters topped with Parmesan. A pasta dish bursting with crawfish, shrimp, sausage and crispy chicken in a cream sauce. If you are a fan of the big, front-loaded flavors of ‘80s Creole cuisine, then the Munch Factory is the

6 6 december 2018

place for you. What’s more, the Munch brings in a smattering of outside influences to round out many of the dishes. For instance, the “Salmon Bites” on the appetizer menu features a Thai chili glaze with a ginger-soy sauce for dipping. It all fits with Chef Jordan Ruiz’s vision. “I try to

Jordan Ruiz’s love of cooking began in the home. “My mom cooked every day. I learned a lot from her,” Jordan said. He spent time at Commander’s Palace before heading off to the Culinary Institure of America in Hyde Park, New York which broadened his skill set profoundly. “They taught me French, Italian and South American cooking. And also some Japanese, Chinese and Indian – I’ve tasted a lot and just had a broad exposure to ingredients and methods through my culinary school experience,” he said. “They also tried to teach Creole and New Orleans at the CIA but they just couldn’t capture it. Not like I knew it from here.” Jordan always knew how he wanted to cook. The CIA and stints with big operators like Commander’s and restaurants in Las Vegas galvanized it. The Munch Factory is his way of bringing these classic Creole flavors into the modern age with an emphasis on fresher ingredients and a wider world view.

jeffery johnston photo

bring worldly flavors to a Creole reduction that broadens its flavor. style,” he explained. “I went to From the entrees, the “Blackened culinary school to hone my skills, Redfish” is a winner. Served with but I grew up always wanting to yellow corn grit cakes it is topped cook this kind of food.” with a decadent crawfish and The Munch Factory’s roots cream sauce. “For that we use go back to a pop-up in a bar on celery and bell pepper cooked Jefferson Davis Parkway and down with crawfish and hot sauce Tulane Avenue. “We started doing and bay leaves,” Jordan said. “I like hot plates there before moving to those big classic Creole flavors Gentilly,” Jordan said, who co-owns but I’m always looking to bring the restaurant with his wife Alexis, them a little more up-to-date who handles the Front of House with fresher ingredients.” responsibilities. It was in Gentilly The herbed grits here deserve that they established their loyal fan special mention. Stone-ground and base. Two years cooked down with onion, back the restaubutter and fresh thyme, they rant relocated on The Munch Factory. are creamy and textured at Sophie Wright 1901 Sophie Wright the same time. They serve Place, where it Place. Lower Garden as a foundation for a lot of District/Coliseum is now nestled Square. 324-5372. L, dishes, the excellent shrimp inside a clutch of D Tues – Sun. Brunch and grits being an example, atmospheric bars Sun. Closed Mon. and the breaded version for and shops near blackened redfish another. Coliseum Square. “People here like grits with The restaurant has bloomed, still just about anything. People in drawing loyal followers from other regions might like rice with Gentilly while rounding out the their meals, but here we like grits,” crowd with Uptowners, late night Jordan said. types off to their start and tour- The Munch Factory is open ists. There is also the occasional Tuesday through Sunday with celebrity couple like Beyoncé and a Sunday brunch. Parking is easy Jay Z, who famously stopped by to find in the surrounding area, for Oysters Bienville and Shrimp although this is where Magazine and Grits in September, putting splits so it can be confusing. the Munch Factory in the national spotlight. “I still can’t believe that happened. I guess hard work pays off,” Jordan said. The Munch is expanding as well and will be opening a location in the new Creole Connection airport this spring. The Munch Factory is unique in The restaurant is homey, that it has a composed menu that with a large dining room hung doesn’t line out easily when with vibrant local art and a sofa compared to other Creole next to the bar. The ambiance restaurants around town. That said, picks up a bit of the Spanish- Ye Olde College Inn also has a Creole Colonial aesthetic that permeates menu where the chef adds personal the neighborhood. The staff is flourishes to the expected standard friendly and welcoming. From dishes. It is a larger restaurant and the appetizer menu, consider much higher volume so it doesn’t the aforementioned Buffalo have the homey touch of Munch Oysters, fried morsels plated Factory, but the Shrimp and Grits atop a brush of buffalo sauce. comes with a Monica sauce and If you are not a fan of oysters, there are plenty of seafood items that you can swap them for shrimp. don’t skimp on seasoning. As a Oysters Gentilly are popular too, bonus, there is a respectable array of served over creamed spinach in healthier options, making it a safe a Worcestershire-spiked onion choice for larger groups.

. december 2018 6 7

restaurant insider

News From the Kitchen Saint-Germain, Longway Tavern, Gris-Gris by Robert Peyton

Oyster BLT Fried Gulf Oysters, Smoked Pork Belly, Tomato Jam and Micro Arugula with Sugarcane Vinegar


Parisian-inspired bistro Saint-Germain opened in the Marigny in late October. Drew DeLaughter, Trey Smith and Blake Aguillard, all of whom have worked locally with chef Michael Gulotta, are behind the spot. There is a wine bar with a small food menu and a separate dining room with frequently-changing menus as well as a beautiful back patio. SaintGermain Wine Bar 3057 St. Claude Ave., 218-8729, Sun. – Thurs., noon to midnight, and until 2:00 a.m. on Fri.and Sat.

6 8 december 2018

Longway Tavern

Longway Tavern aims to be a neighborhood restaurant in a part of town that many folks don’t see as a neighborhood – the French Quarter. Longway pairs chef John Sinclair’s upscale comfort food with a beverage program overseen by Liam Deegan. Sinclair’s experience in local kitchens includes stints at Herbsaint and Coquette, and Deegan was the bar director at Sylvain before opening Barrel Proof as managing partner. Longway Tavern, 719 Toulouse St., 962-9696, Mon. – Thurs., 4 to midnight; Fri. Sun. 11:30 – midnight.

Gris Gris

The space that the recently-opened restaurant occupies was once Square Root, and chef Eric Cook has kept the open kitchen on the first floor. The food is quite different – Cook’s menu features sophisticated Southern food rather than molecular gastronomy, but it’s delicious and every bit as interesting to watch Cook and his staff prepare it. Gris Gris, 1800 Magazine St., 272-0241, Mon. – Sat.,11 to 10; until 9 on Sun.

jeffery johnston photo


7 0 december 2018

styled by photographed by eugenia uhl


Christmas Revival


Ingredients Cake:

Bringing back Baba Au Rhum

¾ cup golden raisins

by Dale Curry

2 tablespoons good dark rum 7 tablespoons butter, divided, softened

Carols in the Quarter, bonfires on the levee

and Celebration in the Oaks set the mood for a New Orleans Christmas along with great food traditions from the past. Predominantly Catholic residents of the 1800s fasted before midnight Mass on Christmas Eve, then brought forth their finest dishes to celebrate until dawn on Christmas at a gathering called Reveillon, meaning “awakening.” French cooking dominated, and local ingredients played a prominent role. Holiday tradition called for breakfast offerings, turtle soup, veal grillades, daube glace, baba au rhum and bouche de Noel. Today, many New Orleans restaurants celebrate the Reveillon meal throughout December with old and new versions of Creole cuisine at usual dining times. Baba au rhum is a classic French yeast cake studded with dried fruit and soaked in rum syrup. It is said to have originated in Lorraine (then German, now French) when the Polish king Stanislas Leszcsynski was exiled there in the 1600s and found the traditional kugelhopf too dry. He improved it by suggesting the addition of rum and named the dish after Ali Baba. A pastry chef attending the king perfected it using a brioche steeped in alcohol, eventually serving it in the Rue Montorgueil in Paris and calling it “baba.” According to “Larousse Gastronomique,” other renowned pastry chefs in Bordeaux and Paris were inspired and created their own versions. The “Picayune Creole Cook Book,” published in 1901, includes a recipe for baba that, when sprinkled with powdered sugar, became “the cake that the Creole bakers of New Orleans send as a Christmas or New Year’s offering to their customers.” Using the same dough, but adding the rum, a second recipe becomes the boozy brioche dessert “rum baba.” You might find one on a menu today in New York or New Orleans, especially during the holidays in December. Or, you might try one for your own table. They can be made a day or two ahead and are not difficult to make, especially if you are used to working with a yeast dough.

1 tablespoon dry yeast 1/3 cup milk, warmed 2 tablespoons sugar 3 large eggs 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon salt Zest of 1 large orange Syrup: 1 cup water 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup good dark rum Topping: 2 cups heavy cream 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 cup fresh or frozen and thawed raspberries

Directions 1. Place raisins in a small bowl and sprinkle with rum. Set aside. 2. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter and brush a standard 12-cup bundt pan. Set aside.

Holiday Dining For a list of restaurants serving Reveillon dinners in New Orleans, go on-line to reveillon-dinners and make your reservations at individual restaurants.

3. Place yeast in the bowl of an electric mixer. Stir in the warm milk and sugar, and let this sit for 5 minutes until a yeasty sponge has formed. Add eggs and beat lightly into yeast mixture. Then add flour, salt, zest and remaining butter and blend into the yeast and egg mixture. On medium speed, beat for 5 minutes. The dough will be elastic. In the mixer bowl, shape dough into a ball

with a spatula. Cover with a damp cloth and let dough rise for about 1 hour until it doubles in size. A slightly warm space is preferable, such as a barely heated oven that has been turned off. 4. When dough has risen, fold soaked raisins into it and place in bundt pan. Cover again with a damp cloth and let rise for about 45 minutes, until risen almost to the pan’s edges. 5. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 6. When baba has risen, uncover and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown and pulling away from the sides of the pan. Remove from pan immediately and onto a wire rack to cool. You may have to run a knife around the edges before removing cake. 7. Meanwhile, make the rum syrup by heating the water and sugar in a small pot until sugar is completely melted. Remove from heat, cool and stir in rum. 8. When cake is cooled, place it on a serving plate and spoon rum syrup over cake. Do this in portions to allow syrup to soak in. If not serving immediately, cover and decorate later. 9. To make topping, whip cream until thickened. Add sugar gradually while beating and beat until stiff peaks form. Mix in vanilla. 10. Shortly before serving, fill the center of the cake with whipped cream, spreading extra over the top of cake. Decorate with raspberries. Serve any extra cream and raspberries on the side. Serves 8 to 10. Note: Baba can be served as individual cakes, baked in small ring molds. They are sometimes served over crème anglaise.

last call

Sippin’ Santa Checking the List - Twice by Tim McNally

If any city knows how to throw a celebration, it’s New Orleans. After all, we have plenty of practice. Especially at the end of the year, during holiday season we don’t mind the extra efforts required to make everyone happy, well-fed and properly served with adult beverages. Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, noted author and proprietor of Latitude 29 in the French Quarter, applies his Tiki focus to the festive Season now at hand.


1 1/2 oz. El Dorado 8-Year Demerara Rum 1/2 oz. Amaro Averna 1 oz. fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz. fresh orange juice 3/4 oz. Gingerbread Mix* Shake with cubed ice. Strain into glass. Add cubed ice to fill. Gingerbread Mix 6 parts Nutmeg Syrup** 1 part Ginger People Ginger Juice Combine Nutmeg Syrup and Ginger Juice. Bottle and store in fridge. Lasts up to 2 weeks. Shake bottle before using. Nutmeg Syrup 1 cup water 1 cup organic cane sugar (a.k.a. evaporated cane juice) 1/2 oz. (level tablespoon) ground nutmeg. Bring to a boil while stirring until sugar dissolves, then remove from heat and let cool. Strain through double-layer cheesecloth. Store in fridge. Shake bottle before using.

7 2 december 2018

eugenia uhl photo december 2018 7 3

dining listings H= New Orleans Magazine award winner


H Pizza Delicious pizza 617 Piety St., 676-8482, L, D Tue-Sun. Authentic New York-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant , that also offers excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes. Outdoor seating a plus. $ Carrollton Bourré AMERICAN 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 510-4040. L, D Tue-Sun. “Elevated” street food along with quality daiquiris and wings are the draw at this newcomer from the team behind Boucherie. $$ Breads on Oak Bakery/Breakfast 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, B, L WedSun. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak St. serves breads, sandwiches, gluten-free and vegan-friendly options. $ City Park Café NOMA AMERICAN 1 Collins Diboll Cir., NO Museum of Art, 482-1264, CafeNoma. com. L, (snacks) Tue-Sun. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $$ CBD/Warehouse District Balise Louisianian Fare 640 Carondelet St., 459-4449, L Tue-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Chef Justin Devillier turns back the clock at this turn-of-the-century inspired bistro in the CBD. Carefully crafted fare fits well alongside the excellent cocktail and beer list. $$$

H BH Steak Steakhouse Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. D daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$

H Borgne Seafood 601 Loyola Ave.,

$ = Average entrée price

$ = $5-10 $$ = $11-15 $$$ = $16-20 $$$$ = $21-25 $$$$$ = $25 & up

appeal. $$$

burning oven, and an excellent raw bar. $$$

Drago’s Louisianian Fare Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, L, D daily. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

Q&C Hotel/Bar AMERICAN 344 Camp St., 587-9700, B, D daily, L Fri-Sun. Boutique hotel bar offering a small plates menu with tempting choices such as a Short Rib Poor Boy and Lobster Mac and Cheese to complement their sophisticated craft cocktails. $$

H Domenica Italian The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, L, D daily. Authentic, regional Italian cuisine. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées features locally raised products. $$$$ Emeril’s Louisianian Fare 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, L Mon-Fri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$

H Herbsaint Louisianian Fare 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$ H La Boca Steakhouse 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 525-8205, D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$

H Lüke World 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, house-made pâtés and plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$

613-3860, L, D daily. Coastal Louisiana with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this high-volume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$

Morton’s The Steakhouse Steakhouse 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, 566-0221, D daily. Private elevator leads to the plush, wood-paneled environs of this local outpost of the famed Chicago steakhouse popular with politicians and celebrities. $$$$

Calcasieu Specialty Foods 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2188, For large and small gatherings, the catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous.

Mother’s Louisianian Fare 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long lines to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$

H Cochon Louisianian Fare 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski feature Cajun and Southern cuisine. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine Reservations recommended. $$

H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, L Mon-Fri, D Tue-Sat. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this menu, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the

7 4 december 2018

Mulate’s Louisianian Fare 201 Julia St., 5221492, L, D daily. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this world-famous Cajun destination. $$ Palace Café World 605 Canal St., 523-1661, B, L, D daily. Cassic New Orleans restaurant, the Dickie Brennan and Palace Cafe team evolve traditional Creol dishes. Enjoy specialty cocktails and small plates at the Black Duck Bar. $$$

H Pêche Seafood 800 Magazine St., 5221744, L, D Mon-Sat. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by Chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-

HRed Gravy Bakery/Breakfast 4125 Camp St., 561-8844, B, Br, L, Wed-Mon. Farm-to-table brunch restaurant offers a creative array of items such as Cannoli Pancakes and Skillet Cakes, as well as delectable sandwiches and more. Homemade pastas and authentic Tuscan specialties round out the menu. $$ H Restaurant August AMERICAN 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, L Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Rock-N-Sake Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, L Fri, D Tue-Sun, late night Fri-Sat. Fresh sushi and contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution. There are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sac-A-Lait Seafood 1051 Annunciation St., 324-3658, D TueSat, L Fri. Cody and Sam Carroll’s shrine to Gulf Coast and Louisiana culinary heritage melds seafood, game, artisan produce, and craft libations in an ambitious menu that celebrates local and southern cuisine. $$$$ The Grill Room AMERICAN Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-6000, B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$ Tommy’s Cuisine Italian 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$ Central City Café Reconcile Louisiana fare 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, CafeReconcile. org. L Mon-Fri. Good food for a great cause, this nonprofit on the burgeoning OCH corridor helps train at-risk youth for careers in the food service industry. $$ Covington Don’s Seafood seafood 126 Lake Dr., (985) 327-7111, L, D Daily. Popular neighborhood seafood joint offers an array of crowd-pleasing south

Louisiana dishes, including char-broiled oysters and Zydeco shrimp. Kid’s Menu makes it a good choice for families. $$$ Faubourg Marigny The Marigny Brasserie AMERICAN 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, MarignyBrasserie. com. L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like fried green tomatoes and innovative cocktails such as the cucumber Collins. $$$ Faubourg St. John

H Café Degas French 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, L, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$

H 1000 Figs World 3141 Ponce De Leon St., 301-0848, L, D Tue-Sat. Vegetarian-friendly offshoot of the Fat Falafel Food Truck offers a healthy farm-to-table alternative to cookie-cutter Middle Eastern places. $$ French Quarter Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 724 Iberville St., 522-5973, L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

H Arnaud’s Louisianian Fare 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, D daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$ Arnaud’s Remoulade Italian 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, L, D daily. Home of the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$ Antoine’s Louisianian Fare 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is à la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$ Antoine’s Annex Specialty Foods 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Open daily. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available. BB King’s Blues Club Barbecue 1104 Decatur St., 934-5464, new-orleans. L, D daily. New Orleans outpost of music club named for the famed blues musician with a menu loaded with BBQ and southern specialties. Live music and late hours are a big part of the fun. $$$ Bayou Burger Burgers 503 Bourbon St., 529-4256, L, D daily. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Gator Bites. $$ Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes,

bourbon is offered as well. $$$ Bayona World 430 Dauphine St., 5254455, L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$ Broussard’s French 819 Conti St., 5813866, D daily, Br Sun. Creole-French institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

H Cane & Table Gastropub 1113 Decatur St., 581-1112, L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Open late, this chefdriven rustic colonial cuisine with rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$ Chartres House Italian 601 Chartres St., 586-8383, L, D daily. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ Court of Two Sisters Louisianian Fare 613 Royal St., 522-7261, Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$ Criollo Louisianian Fare Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various

Louisiana cultures, with a contemporary twist. $$$ Crazy Lobster Seafood 500 Port of New Orleans Place, Suite 83, 569-3380, L, D daily. Boiled seafood and festive atmosphere come together at this seafood-centric destination overlooking the Mississippi River. Outdoor seating a plus. $$$ Creole Cookery Seafood 508 Toulouse St., Suite C110, 524-9632, L, D daily. Crowd-pleasing destination in the French Quarter offers an expansive menu of Creole favorites and specialty cocktails served with New Orleans flair. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 841 Iberville St., 581-1316, L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Classic Creole dishes, such as redfish on the halfshell, and an Oyster Bar. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$ Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. Validated Parking next door. $$$$

H Doris Metropolitan Steakhouse 620 Chartres St., 267-3500, L Fri-Sun, D daily. Innovative steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$ El Gato Negro World 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, L, D daily. Central Mexican cuisine along with hand-muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$ Galatoire’s Louisianian Fare 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak Steakhouse 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, L Fri, D SunThu. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails and classic steakhouse fare and inspired dishes. Reservations accepted. $$$

H GW Fins Seafood 808 Bienville St., 581FINS (3467), D daily. Owners Gary Wollerman and twice chef of the year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$ Hard Rock Café AMERICAN 125 Bourbon St., 529-5617, L, D daily, Br SatSun. Local outpost of this global brand serves burgers, café fare and drinks in their rock

memorabilia-themed environs. $$ House of Blues Louisianian Fare 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, HouseOfBlues. com/NewOrleans. L, D daily. Good menu complements music in the main room. Worldfamous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$ Irene’s Cuisine Italian 539 St. Philip St., 529-8881. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$ K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen Louisianian Fare 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul. com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to the nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H Kingfish Seafood 337 Charters St., 598-5005, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Regionally inspired seafood dishes with carefully sourced ingredients and southern influence is the focus at this chefdriven French Quarter establishment. $$$ Le Bayou Seafood 208 Bourbon St., 5254755, L, D daily. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just a few of the choices at this seafood-centric destination on Bourbon Street. $$$ Muriel’s Jackson Square Italian 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Enjoy local classics while december 2018 7 5

dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$ Napoleon House Italian 500 Chartres St., 524-9752, L Mon-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas. A Sazerac or Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $$ NOLA Louisianian Fare 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, L Thu-Mon, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plankroasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Oceana Grill Seafood 739 Conti St., 5256002, B, L, D daily. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro Gastropub 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, D daily. Wine is the muse at this bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

H Patrick’s Bar Vin Gastropub 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, D daily. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates are served as well. $$ Pier 424 Seafood 424 Bourbon St., 3091574, L, D daily. Seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by

7 6 december 2018

unusual twists like “Cajun-Boiled” Lobster. $$$ Port of Call Burgers 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

H Restaurant R’evolution Italian 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, RevolutionNola. com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Jana Billiot and executive sous chef Gabriel Beard are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$ Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill Italian 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, L, D daily. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered with local favorites such as barbecue oysters, blackened redfish and double-chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$ Rib Room AMERICAN Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, B, D daily, L MonSat, Br Sun. Old World elegance, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on Sundays a jazz brunch. $$$ Richard Fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant Louisianian Fare 301 Dauphine St., 5860972, B, Bar Lunch daily. Just a few steps off of Bourbon Street is this relaxing bar featuring an innovative menu with

dishes like Crawfish, Jalapeno-and-Bacon Mac and Cheese garnished with fried oysters. Live music a plus. $$$ Royal House Louisianian Fare 441 Royal St., 528-2601, L, D daily. B Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$

bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ The Pelican Club AMERICAN 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, D daily. Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$

SoBou Louisianian Fare 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on an accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

H Tujague’s Louisianian Fare 823 Decatur St., 525-8676, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$

H Tableau Louisianian Fare 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, B Mon-Fri, L Mon-Sat, D daily, Brunch Sat-Sun. Gulf seafood such as Redfish Bienville and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Hussard are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le Petite Théâtre. $$$

Garden District Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s AMERICAN 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$

H The Bistreaux Louisianian Fare New Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000, html. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$

District Donuts Sliders Brew AMERICAN 2209 Magazine Street, 570-6945, B, L, D daily. Creative sliders (hello, pork belly) and super-creative donuts (think root beer float) are the hallmarks of this next-generation café. $

The Bombay Club Louisianian Fare Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 577-2237, D daily. Popular martini

Hoshun Restaurant Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, L, D daily. A wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes december 2018 7 7

culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Private dining rooms available. $$

H Mr. John’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, D Tue-Sat, L Fri-Sat. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$ Lakeview H Cava Louisianian Fare 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034. D daily. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big part of the experience. $$$

H Mondo World 900 Harrison Ave., 2242633, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. This place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$ Lower Garden District The Tasting Room Gastropub 1906 Magazine St., 581-3880, TTRNewOrleans. com. D Tue-Sun. Flights of wine and sophisticated small plates are the calling cards for this wine bar. $$ Metairie H Andrea’s Restaurant Italian 3100 19th St., 834-8583, L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$ Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to

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eat oysters. $$

towering seafood platters. $$$


Austin’s Louisianian Fare 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$

Don’s Seafood seafood 4801 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-1550, L, D Daily. Metairie outpost of historic local seafood chain that dates from 1934. Features an array of Cajun and seafood classics like their original ‘Jacked Up’ Oysters and seafood platters. Don’t miss their happy hour specials. $$$

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, L Tue-Fri, D MonSat. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

Drago’s Louisianian Fare 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, L, D Mon-Sat. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, L Tue-Fri & Sun, D Tue-Sun. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$

Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant Seafood 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

Five Happiness Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, L, D daily. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and housebaked duck. $$

Boulevard American Bistro AMERICAN 4241 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-2301. L, D daily. Classic American cuisine including steaks, chops and more is augmented by regional favorites like Boulevard Oysters at this Metairie bistro. $$$ café B AMERICAN 2700 Metairie Road, 9344700, D daily, L Mon-Fri. Br Sun. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this family-friendly neighborhood spot. $$$ Caffe! Caffe! AMERICAN 3547 N. Hullen St., 267-9190. B, L Mon-Sat. & 4301 Clearview Parkway, 885-4845. B, L daily; D Mon-Sat. Healthy, refreshing meal options, and gourmet coffee and espresso drinks create a tasteful retreat for Metairie diners at a reasonable price. $ Crabby Jack’s Louisianian Fare 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, L Mon-Sat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 831-4141, L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or

Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris. com. L Fri, D daily. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution, and great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sucré Specialty Foods 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277, Desserts daily. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering


H Crescent City Steaks Steakhouse

Gracious Bakery + Café Bakery/Breakfast 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, B, L daily. Boutique bakery offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $

H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar Louisianian Fare 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$

H Liuzza’s Italian 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120, L, D daily. Classic

neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. $$

H Mandina’s Louisianian Fare 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, L, D daily. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

H Mona’s Café World 3901 Banks St., 4827743. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros. The lentil soup and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H MoPho Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, L, D Wed-Mon. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-and-match pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$ Parkway Bakery and Tavern AMERICAN 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys. com. L, D Wed-Mon. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $ Ralph’s On The Park Italian 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, Br Sun, L Tue-Fri, D daily. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and

good cocktails. $$$$

H Toups’ Meatery Louisianian Fare 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery. com. L, D Tue-Sat. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$ Multiple Locations Café du Monde Bakery/Breakfast This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ CC’s Coffee House Bakery/Breakfast Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $ Copeland’s Louisianian Fare L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$ Little Tokyo Asian Fusion/Pan Asian L, D daily. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$ Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, burgers, soups, salads and deli-style sandwiches. $ Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House Seafood L, D daily. A seafood lover’s paradise offers an

array of favorites like shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffée, blackened redfish and more. A raw bar featuring gulf oysters both charbroiled and raw. $$$

861-7610, D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

Reginelli’s Pizzeria pizza L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$

HCarrollton Market AMERICAN 8132 Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket. com. L Sat-Sun, D Tue-Sat. Modern Southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/Breakfast B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$ Theo’s Pizza L, D daily. The cracker-crisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with local ingredients at cheap prices. $$ Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill AMERICAN L, D daily. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular spot serves a variety of grilled items, appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Catering services available. $$$ Riverbend

H Boucherie Louisianian Fare 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-5514, L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$ Brigtsen’s Louisianian Fare 723 Dante St.,

Upper 9th Ward St. Roch Market Louisianian Fare 2381 St. Claude Ave., 615-6541, B, L, D daily. Historic St. Claude Marketplace with open dining space houses a broad collection of independent eateries including craft cocktails and more. $$ Uptown Audubon Clubhouse AMERICAN 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute. org. B, L Tue-Sat, Br Sun. A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Bouligny Tavern Gastropub 3641 Magazine St., 891-1810, D MonSat. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$ Camellia Grill AMERICAN 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 309-2679. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $ Casamento’s Louisianian Fare december 2018 7 9

4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, L Thu-Sat, D Thu-Sun. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$ Clancy’s Louisianian Fare 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$ Commander’s Palace Louisianian Fare 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The grande dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Awardwinner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$

H Coquette French 2800 Magazine St., 265-0421, L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from the chefs. $$$ Dick and Jenny’s Louisianian Fare 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys. com. D Mon-Sat. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$

H Gautreau’s Louisianian Fare 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant. com. D Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along H La Crêpe Nanou French 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, D daily,

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Br Sun. Classic French bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes, are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ La Petite Grocery French 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, L Tue-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily French-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ Lilette French 3637 Magazine St., 8951636, L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

H Magasin Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4201 Magazine St., 896-7611, L, D Mon-Sat. Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budget-friendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $ Pascal’s Manale Italian 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood favorite since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$

Burgau. Reservations recommended. $$$ Pizza Domenica pizza 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, L Fri-Sun, D daily. A pizza centric spinoff of the popular Restaurant Domenica brings Neapolitanstyle pies to Uptown. Excellent salads and charcuterie boards are offered as well. $$

H Shaya World 4213 Magazine St., 8914213, L, D daily. James Beard Award-winning menu pays homage to Israel at this contemporary Israeli hotspot. $$$

presents this nationally heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$ H Wayfare AMERICAN 4510 Freret St., 309-0069, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Creative sandwiches and southerninspired small plates. $$ Ye Olde College Inn AMERICAN 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933. com. D Tue-Sat. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$

Sucré Specialty Foods 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311, Desserts daily & nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

H The Company Burger Burgers 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger. com. L, D daily. Custom-baked butter-brushed buns and fresh-ground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $

Warehouse District Lucy’s World 710 Tchoupitoulas St., 5238995, L, D daily. Island-themed oasis with a menu that cherrypicks tempting dishes from across the globe’s tropical latitudes. Popular for lunch, and the after-work crowds stay into the wee hours. $

H Patois World 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441,

The Delachaise Gastropub 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, D daily. Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$ L Fri, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. French food, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron

H Upperline AMERICAN 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Ashley McLellan at december 2018 8 1


1. A. Reneé 824 Chartres St. 1 504-418-1448 Whoever said diamonds are a girl’s best friend never had a dog! Show off your best friend in style with one of our DOGgone adorable clutches, handmade by Kent Stetson. The collection includes 17 breeds of dogs and 2 cats. If something is not in stock it can be special ordered and arrives in three days. The perfect Christmas gift to give yourself or a friend.


2. Aucoin Hart 1525 Metairie Rd., Metairie 504-834-9999 Beautiful sapphire, emerald and diamond statement rings available at Aucoin Hart Jewelers on Metairie Road. 3

3. Auraluz 4408 Shores Dr., Metairie 504-888-3313 MY SAINT MY HERO...mission is to bring faith, hope and purpose into everyday life. Their beautiful selection of wearable blessings make a wonderful holiday gift for those special ones in your life. 4. Bleu 701 Metairie Rd. Ste.112-2A,Metairie 504.309.5999 5228 Magazine St., New Orleans 504.325.5625 Give the gift of fabulous Hair & Makeup this Holiday Season BLEU Gift Cards are money to “blow” but definitely not wasted. Can be purchased for any monetary amount desired and applied towards the purchase of services, products and even gratuity.



5. Chronos 3201 N Arnoult Rd, Metairie 504-267-4550 Holiday shopping that easily fits between your morning coffee and your evening champagne! Purchase a Chronos gift card for all our services – from CoolSculpting to laser treatments and dermal fillers to hydrafacials along with day spa services and a fitness center, we have you covered. 6. Cristy Cali 504-407-5041 The Sugar Skull collection was designed as a reminder to live in the now, to live in the moment and appreciate the present. Diamonds were incorporated with this design to help one feel lighter, more joyful, and more aligned with Spirit. This stone helps to stimulate and open all of the chakras, especially the crown.

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7. Etre Cosmetic Dermatology and Laser Center 1224 St. Charles Ave. 504-227-3873 Are you holiday ready? Drs. Coleman and Donofrio specialize in nonand minimally-invasive cosmetic dermatologic procedures including facial injectables, laser treatments, body contouring, and cellulite reduction. Try our newest procedure, Instalift, to treat wrinkles and deep lines by smoothing and tightening the skin of the face. Experience almost instantaneous face lifting results in only 45 minutes. Call today for your free consultation! 8. Fleur d’Orleans 3701 Magazine St. or 818 Chartres St. 504-899-5585, 504-475-5254 Celebrate the architecture of New Orleans this holiday season. These sterling silver teardrops are inspired by garden gates here in the city. Just one of many architectural jewelry designs from Fleur d’ Orleans. Sterling silver $83.






9. HGM Fine Jeweler 3617 Magazine St, New Orleans 504-957-3409 Vintage Buccellati cuff in 18k yellow gold with diamonds. Price upon request. 10. Home Malone 629 N Carrollton Ave 504-324-8352 Designed to look like a gas lantern when lit, these hand poured soy candle vessels can be reused as a votive holder, terrarium, or as an accessory on your desk to hold pens when you finish burning any of the 4 available scents.

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11. Jaci Blue 2111 Magazine St, New Orleans 504-603-2929 Feel fun and feminine in this knot-twist dress that flatters every body shape. $148 available in sizes 0X-3X. 12. Konnie's Gift Depot 859 Brownswitch Road, Slidell In the Country Club Plaza 985-643-8000 New for The Holidays...Yankee’s “Scenterpiece” Easy Melt Cup system makes changing fragrances easy and convenient. Change the “Easy Meltcup” for a different fragrance without handling or spilling hot wax! Melt Cups are available in 50 fragrances. Featured is the new “Forest Glow” edition with silvery silhouettes of bare tree branches, backlit by this warmers LED and includes a timer. Several different styles are available including additional units with LED lights as well as 3,6 and 9 hour timers for worry free operation. 13. Louisiana Children's Museum 420 Julia St, New Orleans 504-523-1357 Does your little one love LCM’s Lil’ Grocery Store? You can take home the grocery shopping fun with environmentally friendly play options from Tender Leaf Toys. Made from sustainable hardwood, Tender Leaf Toys uses non-toxic paint and a soft waterstain on all of their products. For every tree that becomes a beautiful toy, another is re-planted. Till with money: $34.99; Fish crate: $24.99. 8 4 december 2018

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14. Luna Press "Dalt Wonk captures the eccentric heart of New Orleans. Spiritual Gifts is peopled with the quirky, the disillusioned, the good-hearted of our world. He brilliantly weaves each story into an unforgettable human tapestry." – Jim Amoss, Former Pulitzer Prize board member



15. NOLA Boards 519 Wilkinson St.,New Orleans 504-435-1485 This year give a gift that is handmade right here in New Orleans! NOLA Boards is now located in the French Quarter New Orleans. Check their store out online as well. 16. Pascal's Manale 1838 Napoleon Ave, New Orleans 504-895-4877 Poppy Tooker takes on the Italian Creoles in her new book, the Pascal’s Manale Cookbook. A colorful five-generation family history begins this delicious book focusing on the second oldest family-owned restaurant in a city known for great food. Visit to order yours today!



17. Perlis New Orleans 504-895-8661 French Quarter 504-523-6681 Mandeville 985-674-1711 Baton Rouge 225-926-5909 Ladies moccasin slipper by Barbour offers luxurious warmth with a cozy faux-shearling lining and a suede outer fabric topped by a monochrome tartan bow making it the perfect holiday gift. 17

18. Queork 839 Chartres St., New Orleans 3005 Magazine St., New Orleans Chartres: 504-481-4910 Magazine: 504-388-6804 "The BowLA" Bag for $189 is Queork's retro inspired design, updated with cork accents! Comes in 3 color combinations with gold hardware. 19. Trashy Diva 2048 Magazine Street 537 Royal Street 504-299-3939 Trashy Diva Ophelia Dress $445 20. Wellington & Company 505 Royal St.,New Orleans 504-525-4855 The Wellington & Company sapphire and diamond ring is the perfect gift to give this holiday season. Wear it every day or on occasion only and you will be sure to shine. Available in any size. 8 6 december 2018




Delta Festival Ballet’s The Nutcracker

Holiday Happenings The holidays are here, and all over New Orleans bells are ringing and lights are twinkling—shoppers fill stores and entertainment seekers fill the theaters on a hunt for classic carols and storied performances. Restaurants are buzzing with new winter menus, including the anticipated multi-course Reveillon menus that arrive every December. There’s excitement at every turn during the holiday season, and from festive brunches with Santa Clause to rooftop New Year’s Eve celebrations, there are countless ways to enjoy the company of friends and family and reflect on another year gone by. Annual concerts, ballets, and theater productions are traditions for many families, and people of all ages are awakening their inner child with the sentimental sights, sounds, and scents of the season. New Orleans does food and fun better than any city in the world, and the holidays bring the perfect excuse for more of both.

Festive Dining & Imbibing After a full year of centennial celebrations, Arnaud’s arrives at the holiday season thankful for its long history and excited to welcome another 100 years. A holiday tradition, Arnaud’s will pay homage to its French roots by offering a special Réveillon dinner menu (December 1-23). Celebrate the joys of the season with four courses of Arnaud’s signature Creole cuisine, including entrée selections of Coquille St. Jacques, Chicken Victoria, and Chargrilled Porkchop, along with an appetizer, soup or salad, and dessert. Lunch hour is also a festive feast at Arnaud’s this holiday season when the restaurant unlocks its doors for special lunch offerings from 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. (December 14, 1721, 24, 26-28). Guests can ring in the New Year with Arnaud’s on New Year’s Eve (lunch and dinner) and New Year’s Day (lunch only). For those who stay through midnight on New Year’s Eve, the restaurant provides celebratory accessories to welcome 2019 in style. Extend your holiday fun with a visit to Arnaud’s French 75 Bar for seasonal cocktails, including the Dickens’ Toddy, Tom and Jerry, and hot buttered rums. For reservations, menus, and information, visit 8 8 december 2018

For a uniquely Creole holiday experience, visit The Court of Two Sisters at historic 613 Rue Royale in the French Quarter. In true Creole fashion, this award-winning restaurant will uphold the tradition of the Creole Reveillon holiday meal. This year’s famous Reveillon menu at The Court of Two Sisters begins with Turtle Soup Au Sherry, followed by your choice of Crab & Brie Dip or Red Oak Leaf Salad with roasted walnuts, cranraisins, caramelized shallots, and bleu cheese viniagrette. Entrée choices include Duck Confit en Casserole with petit peas and sweet potatoes, Carved Beef Tenderloin with roasted sweet potato puree and applewood bacon brussel sprouts, or Gulf Fish with Brabant potatoes, mushrooms, bacon, sautéed shrimp and shrimp beurre blanc. The menu concludes on a sweet note with a Salted Caramel Ice Cream or the Bûche de Noël. Coffee and tea are included. The menu runs from December 1st through 24th for only $50 per person. Return to The Court of Two Sisters on New Year’s Eve and ring in the New Year with a spectacular multi-course meal. Call 504-522-7261 or visit for reservations. Continuing its success as one of OpenTable’s 100 Best Brunch Restaurants in America, Red Gravy welcomes its 9th year on Camp Street this winter and is celebrating the holiday season with some “Christmas in NYC” inspired specials from owner Roseann Melisi Rostoker. Rostoker likes to feature a variety of specialties picked up from her world travels and native Jersey shore, and this season, keep an eye out for traditional New York/Italian specials such as wild boar ragu and lasagna bolognese. Zeppole, an Italian doughnut that’s fried, sugared, and traditionally served on Christmas Eve, is now a constant on the Red Gravy menu. While the ever-changing menu continues to showcase different foods and eating trends, you can always count on Red Gravy’s signature Italian delicacies, Roseann’s famous meatballs, and handmade pasta. For details, visit Red Gravy will be open for brunch on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day, 8 a.m. - 2 p.m. View the menu and make reservations online at, or call 504-561-8844. Riccobono’s Peppermill was founded by Joe and Josie Riccobono 43 years ago, when they decided to branch out from the famed Buck 49 restaurants and offer a classic New Orleans restaurant in the burgeoning suburb of Metairie. Today, Riccobono's Peppermill is famous for its popular breakfast and for being the local meeting place for political and business professionals. Breakfast hits includes the savory Crabcake Benedict and sweet Belgian Waffles. Brunch, complete with bottomless mimosas, is offered Saturdays, 11 a.m. -2 p.m. Dinner menu favorites include the Riccobono Trinity—homemade cannelloni, eggplant Madeline (layered eggplant casserole with sweet stewed tomatoes and Pecorino Romano) and panne veal, as well as the fresh seafood that is brought in daily. Another top seller is the Famous Oyster Riccobono served with spaghetti bordelaise. Riccobono’s Peppermill offers a private dining room for holiday parties, business meetings, rehearsal dinners, and more for parties of 35-50 guests. The restaurant is located at 3524 Severn Ave. in Metairie. For menus and information, including private events, visit or call 504-455-2266. As the newest member of the Riccobono family of restaurants, Sala is a contemporary restaurant and cocktail bar bringing a casual dining experience to beautiful Lake Pontchartrain in New Orleans’ West End neighborhood. Great for drinks and small plates with friends after work, a celebratory dinner with family, or a leisure-filled weekend brunch, Sala delivers with delicious food, a diverse menu, superb wines and cocktails, and a chic atmosphere. Sala is also now open for lunch during the week and breakfast on weekends. Located at 124 Lake Marina Avenue, directly across from the Marina,

ADVERTISING SECTION Sala joins Café Navarre, Riccobono’s Peppermill, and Panola Street Café as part of the Riccobono family. Happy hour is offered weekdays from 4 to 6 p.m. Late-night hours run until midnight Thursday through Saturday, and weekends feature breakfast with mimosas by the carafe starting at 8 a.m. The restaurant is closed on Mondays. For more information, menus, and reservations, visit or call 504-513-2670. The holidays are an especially magical time to dine at Commander’s Palace. Holiday carolers provide added merriment to December lunches, December 10-21, and lunch also provides an opportunity to add to your Commander’s jingle bell collection with a complimentary bell, December 1st through Christmas Eve. Planning a winter dinner party? Commander’s Palace makes entertaining easy. The restaurant’s experienced party planners will work with you to tailor ever aspect of the event to your liking. At Commander’s, Executive Chef Tory McPhail, along with the support of an experienced team of sous chefs, serves haute Creole dishes that continue to delight the discerning locals and visitors of New Orleans. The restaurant is known as a place where memories are made. Commander’s Palace celebrated its 125th anniversary this year and was named Restaurant of the Year 2018 by Times-Picayune. Enjoy dinner seven days a week, lunch Monday through Friday, and jazz brunch on the weekends. For reservations and more, visit In its 35th year as a celebrated culinary New Orleans destination, Gautreau’s courts its guests with distinctively elegant yet approachable surroundings and a menu both inventive and down-to-earth. Nestled in a lush garden spot in Uptown New Orleans, Gautreau’s has been fortunate to see a succession of great talent in its kitchen, winning several national awards. Chef Baruch Rabasa has been the quiet genius

influencing the restaurant’s two previous talented chefs, and now he’s at the helm, creating sensational new dishes that highlight influences from his native country of Mexico. Appetizers like the Marinated Hamachi with avocado, mango, and aji sauce and the Seared Sea Scallops with Leche de Tigre and Fresno chilies and fresh hearts of palm showcase a vast spectrum of flavors that greet guests prior to entrees such as the Sauteed Shrimp with Coconut-Kafir Lime Jus, the Roasted Duck Breast with Mole Reduction, and Sauteed Red Snapper with Thai Pesto. Decadent desserts such as the Caramelized Banana Split with Vanilla Ice Cream, Vanilla Bean Crème Brulee, and Mexican Chocolate Semifreddo provide a perfect ending to Gautreau’s exceptional fine dining experience. For reservations and info, visit Broussard's Restaurant is the ultimate gathering place this holiday season with its festive Santa Brunch available on select days this December. From Friday through Sunday, December 14-16 and 21-23, families can dine to live jazz music while their children enjoy photos with Santa in addition to coloring ornaments and writing letters to Santa (with a response from Old Saint Nick himself!). The restaurant will also be running a toy drive to benefit the New Orleans Mission. Additionally, Broussard’s presents its festive Reveillon menu, including, for starters, a choice of Duck Rillettes or Artichoke and Leek Gratin followed by Parsnip and Onion Soup or a Roasted Beet Salad. Entrée choices include Pan Fried Gulf Trout, Duck Cassoulet or Blanquette de Veau with roasted mushrooms, cippolini onions, and Louisiana popcorn rice. Finish the meal with a Yule Log (swiss roll, raspberry preserves, and chocolate buttercream) or Tart à La Bouille Bread made with oldfashioned cookie crust, slow-cooked custard, and strawberry compote. For more information on Broussard’s and its brunch, lunch, dinner or Reveillon menu, visit or call 504-581-3866 to make reservations. december 2018 8 9


Tommy’s Cuisine in the Warehouse District combines the quintessential New Orleans reverence for fine ingredients with artfully concocted combinations to create a truly world-class dining experience. Tommy’s is now open for Sunday brunch, featuring bottomless $12 Peach Bellinis, traditional and signature brunch entrees, and Tommy’s Classics like Veal Picatta and Seafood Stuffed Eggplant. This month, Tommy’s is excited to introduce its four-course Réveillon menu, which starts with Oyster Ribollita Soup or a Goat Cheese and Wild Mushroom Crepe followed by your choice of salad: a Warm Roast Duck & Spinach Salad or Parmigiano Salad. Entrée choices include Italian Style Beef Daube with creamy polenta and Sunday red gravy or Redfish Scoglio with lump crab, shrimp, Capellini and marinara. Dessert brings a Fig & Pear Streusel or Peppermint Black Forest Cake a la Mode. Tommy’s is located at 746 Tchoupitoulas Street, just a short walk from the galleries of Julia Street, several museums, and the Mercedes Benz Superdome. For menus, reservations, and more information, visit or call 504-581-1103. Cozy up to the fireplace or enjoy crisp evenings in the courtyard this season at Effervescence. Taste bubbles from around the world, with flights available by the full or half glass. Every Wednesday, Effervescence pops open a magnum of Champagne—double the excuse to celebrate midweek! Discover the deeper side of bubbles with sparkling red wine, a special flight only available this holiday season. The full bar also serves cocktails, beer, and spirits. The bites menu features fresh and local ingredients prepared by the Michelin-trained chef team. Highlights include a Gulf Seafood Plateau, Caviar Service, Dry-Aged Louisiana Wagyu, and Pommes Frites. Effervescence will offer two experiences to "Party like a Tzar" with their Imperial Russian themed New Year's Eve celebration. An evening soirée will feature canapés and champagne from 5-7 p.m. or indulge in the full banquet extravaganza with an eight-course dinner, caviar, Cristal, and live music! For holiday hours, New Year's Eve details, menus, and event bookings visit Limited reservations are available on OpenTable. For over 100 years, Parkway Bakery and Tavern has been a staple provider of delicious, locally produced foods, and today, Parkway is known as the go-to place for New Orleans’s signature sandwich—the poor boy. Locally owned since 1911, Parkway has survived major floods and economic shifts, including the Great Depression. This holiday season, make it a yearly tradition to dine with friends and family at one of New Orleans’s most famous and historical sandwich shops. With over 25 different poor boys, ranging from seafood, sausage, turkey and alligator to their famous slow-cooked roast beef and the original French fry poor boy, there’s a sandwich for any appetite. Situated at the corner of Hagan & Toulouse in Mid-City, right on Bayou St. John, Parkway’s poor boys and ambiance create a dining experience unlike any other. Decorated with memorabilia from Parkway’s early days, the historical neighborhood atmosphere is great for reminiscing with friends and family. Parkway is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily and closed on Tuesdays. For more information, visit For over a decade, Austin’s Restaurant has been known as Metairie’s hot spot for steak, seafood, and the Creole-Italian creations of Restauranteur Ed McIntyre and his esteemed culinary staff. Garnering accolades from critics and readers alike, Austin’s was named “Favorite Steak House” and McIntyre named “New Orleanian of the Year” in 2010 by readers of New Orleans Magazine. Austin’s impressive menu includes signature appetizers, soups, and salads such as the popular Austin’s Louisiana Creole Crab Salad and Oyster Fitzgerald, as well as the finest aged USDA steaks and savory Creole-Italian entrees of seafood, veal, duck, and pork. 9 0 december 2018

Austin’s is located at 5101 W. Esplanade in Metairie and is open Monday-Saturday, 5:00pm ‘til, and for private luncheons and banquets. Austin’s is now accepting reservations for Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve. Mr. Ed’s Restaurant Group Gift Cards are available for the holiday season. For information and reservations, call 504-888-5533. Visit Austin’s online at McIntyre also oversees The Pearl Room event venue in Harahan, Mr. Ed’s Seafood & Italian Restaurant, and Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House, including his newest location at 821 Iberville Street in the French Quarter. During the holidays, stop by any of the Tropical Isles, home of the Hand Grenade®, New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink® and the Hand Grenade® Martini. Don’t be fooled by the street construction—every bar is open! Enjoy a Hand Grenade® at Funky Pirate Blues Club or Bayou Club. Experience Trop Rock, Cajun/Zydeco and the Blues with Tropical Isle’s nightly entertainment, the best on Bourbon. State-ofthe-art sound systems plus great live bands will keep you dancing the night away at Tropical Isle Bourbon, Tropical Isle Original, Little Tropical Isle, Funky Pirate, and the Bayou Club. While there, ask about the Hand Grenade® Martini! Enjoy big screen TVs at Funky Pirate, Bayou Club, Tropical Isle Bourbon, and Top of the Trop. For more on Tropical Isle, visit For a quiet escape, visit local favorite The Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro right off of Bourbon at 720 Orleans Avenue, which has more than 200 varieties of wine by the bottle and plenty of wine by the glass, plus a Bacon Happy Hour! For sample menus and wine lists, visit Cheer on your favorite team as you dine riverside at the hottest sports bar downtown! Poppy’s Time Out Sports Bar features 18 beers on tap, including loads of local brews. Poppy’s carries all of the DIRECTV sports packages and displays over 20 TVs for fans to keep up with all the excitement around the leagues. Poppy’s menu includes hand-crafted, juicy gourmet burgers made using brisket, short rib, and ground chuck. Amazing wings, loaded nachos, and seafood poboys round out the menu’s top picks for game-winning appetizers and entrees. Bring your entire team to Poppy’s party pavilion to watch all the action. Poppy’s Time Out Sports Bar is located in Spanish Plaza across from Harrah’s Casino at 500 Port of New Orleans, Ste. 80. Happy Hour runs Monday-Friday, 3- 6 p.m. and features daily specials. For photos, menus, party reservations and more, visit or call 504-247-9265 for more information. Celebrate the holidays with family and friends at New Orleans Creole Cookery. Savor authentic Creole dishes prepared by renowned Chef Lance Lewis and relish the time-honored tastes of classic Creole favorites such as Gumbo, Shrimp Creole, Crawfish Etouffee, and Snapper Pontchartrain. New Orleans Creole Cookery is everything you love about New Orleans in a setting to fit every occasion. Enjoy casual fine dining at its very best in your choice of the charming Toulouse Lautrec dining room, romantic courtyard, or lively oyster bar. Each offers a Creoleinspired menu complemented by tempting handcrafted cocktails from the bar. Located at 510 Toulouse Street in one of New Orleans’ oldest and most storied locations, New Orleans Creole Cookery is just steps from holiday festivities in the French Quarter, including the annual New Year’s Eve Fleur de Lis Drop and riverfront fireworks. New Orleans Creole Cookery is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. for lunch and dinner. Take advantage of Oyster Happy Hour Monday through Friday, 3 – 6 p.m., with $1.00 chargrilled and $0.50 raw oysters along with drink specials. Visit or call 504-524-9632. The Warehouse District recently welcomed Briquette, a new restaurant at 701 S. Peters Street by Anna Tusa, Owner of New Orleans

ADVERTISING SECTION Creole Cookery. With Briquette, Tusa puts seafood and contemporary coastal cuisine at the center of the dining experience. As the name indicates, the restaurant features a large charcoal grill to highlight the fresh coastal flavors. The menu emphasizes small plates for sharing the variety of fish and seafood, including whole grilled fish. Other flavorful menu items include aged beef, pastas, and more. The bar at Briquette features a curated wine list to accompany the menu along with specialty, hand-crafted cocktails. Start a new family tradition this holiday season with a delicious food shared together at Briquette. For more information and reservations, visit Briquette online at or on Facebook. Find all of “Nawlin’s” favorites at New Orleans Cajun Cookery, located just outside the French Quarter at 719 S. Peters Street in the CBD. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the Cajun Cookery is perfect for visitors and downtown professionals alike. Highlights of the menu include Chicken & Waffles, Shrimp & Grits, seafood platters, and po-boys. The Cookery’s full bar features hand-crafted cocktails and a vast selection of craft beers from Louisiana’s growing list of breweries. Pony up to the bar between 3-6 p.m. and enjoy $5 drinks and appetizers. Outdoor seating is available and perfect for those mild winter mornings, afternoons, and evenings. The Cajun Cookery will be serving up “Nawlins” favorites throughout the holidays. For more information on the restaurant and its offerings, call 504-407-0653. Located in the Lower Garden District and just blocks from Downtown New Orleans, Hoshun Restaurant delivers a flavorful punch of pan-Asian flavors with their own take on traditional dishes from China, Japan, Vietnam and other South-Asian countries. Popular menu items include pho soup and Vietnamese spring rolls, pad

Thai, sushi, General Tsao’s Chicken, Hunan steak, Kung Pao shrimp and more. Enjoy family-style dining in an elegant atmosphere while sharing your favorite appetizers, entrees, combination dinners, and sushi specials. Whether you’re looking for seafood, steak, or vegetarian fare, Hoshun’s extensive menu provides options for everyone. Open daily until 2 a.m., Hoshun is a favorite late-night spot for locals and visitors alike. Its great lunch prices and daily happy hour (3 – 6 p.m.) make it a popular daytime destination as well. On Tuesdays, S.I.N. night extends happy hour from 10 p.m. – 2 a.m. For menu and information, visit or call 504302-9716. Located at 1601 St. Charles Avenue, Hoshun offers a private party room overlooking the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line fitting between 25-70 people. Five Happiness, New Orleans’s award-winning Chinese restaurant, offers a delicious menu of Sichuan and Hunan specialties in a recently renovated sleek and elegant dining room. Enjoy the succulent shrimp with honey roasted pecans, General’s Chicken or asparagus sautéed with garlic sauce in a comfortable and unique setting distinguished by its authentic Chinese décor of etched glass and Chinese paintings. The dining room, now split into three rooms, provides a more private dining experience for guests. Five Happiness is available for private parties, receptions, or other functions and can hold up to 60 people. Serving options are customized for each party, ranging from sit-down dinners to buffets or cocktails with hors d’oeuvres and prices starting at $22 per person. For those not wanting to cook during the holidays, Five Happiness happily serves lunch and dinner on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. For more information, call 504-482-3935 or visit Enjoy a new culinary experience this holiday season with Chef Charles House of Creations. A personal chef from Baton Rouge with december 2018 9 1

ADVERTISING SECTION over 30 years experience, Chef Charles is bringing a fresh idea and his freshest recipes to town and catering directly to you in your home or business. Transform your home or business space into a winter wonderland with the creative table settings and decorating skills of Lady Lecia, Chef Charles’ wife and business partner. Together, they’ll create a feast exclusive to you, your loved ones, or business associates with one-of-a-kind meals to celebrate the occasion. Whether you’re celebrating the holidays, a birthday, anniversary, or other special occasion, allow Chef Charles to travel to you and supply you and your guests with exciting, unique flavors and a personalized experience. Visit for information. Give him a call to set up your personal one-on-one consultation. The experience is in the creation! Krispy Krunchy® Chicken, one of the fastest growing convenience store based quick service restaurant (QSR) concepts in the country, recently announced a five-year partnership with the New Orleans Pelicans. Krispy Krunchy® Chicken has not only become the Official Fried Chicken of the New Orleans Pelicans, but it will also be the only fried chicken vendor for the Smoothie King Center, operating out of three concession stands in the facility at all events, including concerts. When the Pelicans game clock winds down to 5:00 minutes during any home game, it becomes “Krunch Time” with fun displays all around the arena and on TV. During the fourth quarter, the “Fowl Line” promotion goes into effect—if an opposing-team player misses two free throws in a row, anyone holding that game’s ticket stub is entitled to a free small side from any participating Krispy Krunchy® Chicken in the surrounding area until close of business the next day. Recognized in 2017 by Thrillist as “America’s Best Fried Chicken You’ve Never Heard Of,” Krispy Krunchy® currently has more than 2,400 locations across North America. For information and locations, visit

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Seasonal Events, Entertainment, & Accommodations Since 1852, Fair Grounds Race Course has been a part of the cultural fabric of the wonderful city of New Orleans. The Fair Grounds welcomed back the excitement of Thoroughbred Racing this season on November 15th. With extensive experience, southern hospitality, and unique facilities, the Fair Grounds is able to make your occasion truly memorable. Whether it's a group for "A Day at the Races," a meeting or an evening party, Fair Grounds provides an ideal setting for your next event. A major strength is its flexibility; event settings range from elegant to casual and reception-style to sit-down with your choice of view of the racetrack or downtown New Orleans. With grounds fit for even the most special of occasions, Fair Grounds would consider it a privilege to share in any big day. Host your ceremony or reception in the Paddock and be among the many greats in history that have paraded around this historic site. For groups of 25 or more, request the Fair Grounds Race Course brochure and “Win, Place and Show” your guests an afternoon to remember. Call 504-948-1285 or email Visit online at An iconic French Quarter location for theater and entertainment, Le Petit Theatre was established just over a century ago in 1916. Today, its legacy continues with exciting productions running year-round just steps from Jackson Square. On December 7th, the company opens its first-annual production of Charles Dickens’ heartwarming Victorian classic, A Christmas Carol, featuring young artists from the theatre’s newly launched Young Conservatory Program. In January, the winner of the 2014 Tony

ADVERTISING SECTION Award for Best New Musical, A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder opens its run, and following shortly after in March, Le Petit presents the regional premiere of Baby Doll, based on Tennessee Williams’ one-act play 27 Wagons Full of Cotton and the controversial 1956 film. Grammy-nominated piano virtuoso Mona Golabek will close the season with her inspirational show The Pianist of Willesden Lane. Family four packs for A Christmas Carol and three- and four-play packages are available now. For tickets and more information, visit or call the box office at 504-522-2081 ext. 1. Delta Festival Ballet's The Nutcracker with the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra brings holiday magic to the Mahalia Jackson Theater on Saturday, December 22 at 7 p.m. and Sunday, December 23 at 2 p.m. With international guest stars, outstanding local professionals and a Youth Corps of over 100 young dancers from the Greater New Orleans Area, Delta Festival Ballet's The Nutcracker is the show to see this holiday season. Now in it’s 37th year, the production is helmed by Artistic Directors, Joseph and Maria Giacobbe, assisted by Ballet Master, Richard Rholdon. The Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Glenn Langdon, will accompany the performances. Guest artists include Katherine Barkman of Washington Ballet, and crowd favorite, Joseph Phillips. The role of Clara will be danced by Fleur Vines and Abby Toups, both students at Mount Carmel Academy. Tickets on sale now at and by calling Ticketmaster 800-745-3000. MySquad is an exciting, new mobile app that helps you discover and earn amazing cash back rewards for purchases at restaurants, bars, and more. The easy-to-use, tap-and-go mobile interface enables your rapid search by location, listing, category, and active promotions. You can plan ahead for a future date, or quickly scan MySquad for a

spur of the moment destination when already out and about. Planning a group destination with friends or family? MySquad’s integrated text window allows you to socialize and jointly select that ideal destination while never leaving the app. MySquad tracks your purchases at destinations all around town, then aggregates, displays, and delivers cash back rewards. Use it everywhere you dine and shop—it’s crazy fun! Whether you are going solo or going with your friends, don't go without MySquad because life is so much better with rewards. MySquad is available on Apple Store. Holiday magic abounds at one of the most-anticipated holiday destinations in the South, MGM Resorts International’s Beau Rivage Resort & Casino. The Gulf Coast’s premier resort is transformed into a winter wonderland with twinkling displays, unique shopping and holiday entertainment. This season’s décor includes larger-than-life nutcrackers, magnificent oversized ornaments, winter scenes, dozens of frost-covered trees, thousands of red poinsettias, and a stunning 20foot Christmas tree that create many photo-worthy opportunities. Enjoy free nightly entertainment, Dec. 15-24, as choral groups echo the sounds of the season throughout the resort’s atrium. Christmas with Aaron Neville takes place Dec. 6-7, and Christmas Dreams fills the Beau Rivage Theatre, Dec. 15-27. The production features an awardwinning cast of skaters, singers, cirque performers, a stage made of real ice and a snowfall at every performance. Don’t miss Brunch with Santa at BR Prime on Dec. 16. Santa and friends are making a special appearance at this elegant brunch in a holiday setting. Children are encouraged to wear their holiday best for a keepsake photo with Santa, and each child will take home a limited-edition gift. december 2018 9 3


For more information, visit Like the city of New Orleans and the holidays themselves, The Eliza Jane is imbued with a certain je ne sais quoi, a sparkling magic you can feel while roaming the hotel’s historical hallways or relaxing in the garden courtyard. Named after the innovative, powerful Eliza Jane Nicholson, the first female publisher and owner of The Daily Picayune, the hotel is built within the historic newspaper’s original warehouse. Experience The Eliza Jane and create your own story and holiday tradition. From December 1 through January 10, 2019, the Papa Noel promotion offers a 15% discount on the hotel’s spacious guestrooms and luxurious suites. (Two-night minimum and blackout dates apply.) Visit for details and reservations. Fresh on the New Orleans’ dining scene and receiving glowing accolades is Couvant, which brings a fresh perspective to the traditional brasserie by serving up simple, relevant renditions of iconic French dishes from within The Eliza Jane. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday Brunch, Couvant will feature holiday menus. Enjoy beautifully simple brasserie fare inspired by the city’s French heritage. Visit There's no place like New Orleans during the holidays. Feasts, fêtes and festivals await visitors around the city. Celebrate the holidays at NOPSI Hotel with a classic Reveillon dinner at Public Service, an ugly sweater party at Above the Grid or our blowout NYE lobby party. NOPSI Hotel shines brightly all season long, but during the month of December, enjoy Papa Noel rates starting at $139 on weekdays and $189 on weekends. It’s hard to believe the holidays

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are already here, and you’re invited to share in the joy. The first luxury hotel to open in New Orleans in a generation, NOPSI Hotel, New Orleans welcomes guests with a magnetic elegance and dynamic vibe that reflects the spirit and energy of the city. NOPSI, which stands for New Orleans Public Service Inc., opened in the former headquarters of the city’s power and transportation company. Originally built in 1927, the alluring ninestory building has been transformed into one of New Orleans’ most luxurious destinations. Visit or call 504-962-6500 for details and reservations. •



Neurology When facing a complex neurological disorder or an unexpected health event such as an aneurysm or stroke, you want to know you’re receiving the best, quickest care possible. The neurological system controls so much of the body’s functioning that an injury or illness affecting the spine or brain can have a serious lasting impact. New Orleans is home to a number of neurological specialists who can diagnose and treat problems in these areas, which means residents can find specialized care without having to leave Louisiana. Many offer cutting-edge technologies to aid in diagnosis, treatment, and recovery. In addition to neurological care close to home, the area also offers a number of related health resources, from imaging services to CBD. Learn more about what help is available with the following health care and service providers.

Neurological Care It takes a team to diagnose and treat complex neurological disorders. Culicchia Neurological Clinic is one of the largest neuro practices in the region, with doctors who work together to diagnose and treat disorders such as brain tumors, aneurysm, stroke, epilepsy, migraines, and spinal disorders. The Clinic's physician specialties include Neurosurgery, Neurology, Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation and Interventional Pain Management. Culicchia Neurological Clinic’s affiliate, CNC Hearing and Balance Center, offers a medical staff trained to provide the latest in hearing healthcare. Hearing loss may indicate a more serious condition, and the Center’s staff is uniquely qualified to provide a full evaluation. The Center offers a wide array of treatment options from assistive devices to microsurgical hearing restoration, surgically implantable hearing devices, digital hearing device fittings and follow-up service, cochlear implants, hearing tests, and more. Culicchia Neurological accepts most major insurances and its physicians are among the most highly trained in the Gulf South, respected for their expertise and high level of patient care. Clinics are located in Marrero, New Orleans (Uptown), Slidell, and Covington. Call 504-340-6976 for an appointment or visit or Tulane University School of Medicine’s Center for Clinical Neurosciences is dedicated to providing the highest quality patient-centered care by combining cutting-edge technology with personalized attention. The center allows for faster consults between physicians who specialize in different neuroscience disciplines and provides an improved continuity of care for neuro patients.

The center, in partnership with the world-class physicians at Tulane University School of Medicine’s Center for Neurosciences, offers the expertise and capabilities to effectively diagnose and treat spine, brain, and neurological conditions. To continue their tradition of excellence and expertise in providing the best quality care, education and research are integrated through the combined resources of Tulane University Hospital and Clinics and the Tulane School of Medicine. The Center for Clinical Neurosciences operates an outpatient clinic located in Tulane Hospital that can be reached at 504-988-5561. Visit online at

Additional Resources Injuries or disease affecting areas such as the cervical spine, neck, head, brain or eyes can be a challenge for doctors to arrive at a definitive diagnosis. That’s where specialty imaging from Diagnostic Imaging Services (DIS) comes in and plays a critical role. Over the past five years, DIS has invested in important technology to make its Neuroimaging suite of services the preferred choice for area neurologists and other physicians. This suite not only includes technology and specialty imaging tests, but also experienced and respected radiologists who specialize in neurological radiology and are called upon to review test images and provide a timely report of their findings. Visit to learn more about the company’s focus on the brain, spine, and surrounding anatomies. You’ll see why DIS is the leader in independent outpatient neuroimaging in southeast Louisiana. DIS offers locations in Metairie, Marrero, Slidell and Covington. DIS—doctor trusted, patient preferred. Your CBD Store New Orleans and Your CBD Store Metairie specialize in all things CBD. Cannabidiol, or CBD, has been a big topic of conversation due to its medical qualities. Customers of Your CBD Store are using their products for inflammation, chronic pain, anxiety, depression, migraines, Crohn’s, fibromyalgia, arthritis, and even addiction and sleep aid. According to Dr. David Allen, retired cardiac surgeon and member of the ICRS, "The discovery of the Endocannabinoid System (ECS) is the single most important medical scientific discovery ever, and the manipulation of the ECS will save more lives than are currently saved by surgery." When you’re ready for an all-natural alternative, visit Your CBD Store to get the help without the high. Your CBD store has two convenient locations at 3613 Magazine Street in New Orleans and, now open, 6824 Veterans Memorial Blvd. in Metairie across from Office Depot and PetSmart. For more information, call 504-702-8989 or visit december 2018 9 5



streetcar by errol laborde

A Julia Street Christmas For most of us, the song, “I’ll

Be Home for Christmas” took on a different meaning 13 years ago, just three months after the levees broke. At issue was not so much if we would be home for Christmas, but whether we would ever be home at all, or at least back to the place we had once lived. Our refuge was a small apartment on Julia Street where our usual six-foot-high live tree was replaced by a three-foot artificial tree bought at the Wal-Mart in upstate Alexandria during our exile. People who we usually visited during the holidays were relocated too, with neither stockings to hang nor chimneys to hang them on. 1 1 2 december 2018

For many locals the château du jour was a trailer provided by FEMA, by then a much-maligned organization that had suddenly become the area’s major housing provider. Conversation came easily at holiday gatherings. Everyone had stories to tell about their recent lives: All stories were compelling, each seeming to top the previous one. A year earlier, on Christmas Day 2004, snow fell, beginning exactly at noon. It was a joyous moment, though a year later some superstitious souls remembered the snow as nature’s hex, a disarming moment of brightness as an omen for dark days ahead.

In another country, in another century Charles Dickens’ “A Christmas Carol” had created a template for Christmas being a time of good will and helping the needy. In 2005 New Orleans was a city of Tiny Tims leaning on their crutches; not only were our lives in shambles but our community pride was hurt; the Saints were playing in San Antonio; the Hornets in Okalahoma City and (heaven forbid) the Sugar Bowl was held in Atlanta. But the Yule season by its existence creates its own sauce—a yearning for something benevolent, like the British and German soldiers who climbed out of the

trenches one Christmas Eve during World War I to sing “Silent Night” together. So, in our blue roofed world, the season added a little music, a little sparkle. At midnight on Christmas Eve, we were at St. Patrick’s church for mass. That evening, the priests and the choir staged a show that was unprecedented in its beauty as angelic voices filled the incense- scented chamber with the glory of music that showed the genius and the survivability of mankind. At that one spot on Camp Street, Christmas morning had arrived gloriously to this mildewed city— and for that hour, at least, all was calm, all was bright.


ARTHUR NEAD Illustration