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october 2019 / VOLUME 53 / NUMBER 12 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Ashley McLellan Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Writers Fritz Esker, Kathy Finn, Dawn Ruth Wilson, Carolyn Kolb, Chris Rose, Eve Crawford Peyton, Mike Griffith, Liz Scott Monaghan, Lee Cutrone, Dale Curry, Jay Forman, Tim McNally, Robert Peyton Digital Media Editor Kelly Massicot Staff Writers Topher Balfer, Kelly Massicot Melanie Warner Spencer Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan Advertising Sales Manager Kate Henry (504) 830-7216 / Kate@MyNewOrleans.com Senior Account Executives Danielle Kiletico, Meggie Schmidt Account Executive Rachel Webber Director of Marketing and Events Jeanel Luquette Event Coordinator Abbie Dugruise Digital Media Associate Mallary Matherne For event information call (504) 830-7264 Production Manager Emily Andras Production Designers Rosa Balaguer, Meghan Rooney Special Projects Art Director Molly Tullier Patty Traffic Coordinator Lane Brocato Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive Vice President Errol Laborde Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Mallary Matherne Audience Development Claire Sargent WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 MyNewOrleans.com

For subscription information call (504) 828-1380

New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2019 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

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Contents Local Color Marquee

Why MSY?, p. 60

Top Picks for October 26

Persona Chef Aaron Sanchez 30

Biz Power Plays 34

Chris Rose Jingle, Janle 36

Modine Gunch Monster Bash 38

Joie d’Eve Bracing for It 40

In Tune Beyond the Limits 42

Chronicles Holey Doughnut! 44

Home Behemian Luxury 46

80

Features

In Every Issue

One-Tank Getaways

Inside

5 easy escapes from the city 50

Roads Less Traveled 16

Why MSY?

Speaking Out

Who was Moisant? 60

Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon 1

Julia Street Questions and Answers About Our City 20

Streetcar The Arrival 128

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DIAL 12, D1 New Miniseries on WYES! Set in the world of newspapers in London this razor sharp and observant drama explores the current, turbulent media landscape and the ethical dilemmas that journalists and editors face each day. MASTERPIECE “Press” premieres on WYES on Sunday, October 6 at 9pm. For all WYES program and event details, go to wyes.org.

The Menu Table Talk Mastering the Fundamentals 74

Restaurant Insider News from the Kitchen 76

Food Beyond the Taco 78

Last Call Mezcal Cocktail 80

Dining Guide Listings by Neighborhood 82


inside

Roads Less Traveled I never made it to the snake

farm. That used to be one of the sites along Airline Highway (U.S. 61) as it stretched between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. In the days before interstates, traffic moved a lot slower along the old federal and state highways. The roads were designed to get you where you were going, but not necessarily in a hurry, partially because when you reached a town there were stop lights, whether they were needed or not. Interstates are a marvel, but they’re just not as quirky. Promises extracted from parents to stop at the snake farm on the next trip were forgotten with age and interstates. Some places were an easier sell, such as Rousselle’s, a must-stop restaurant in LaPlace, ideal for a rest along the way after travelling 25 miles from New Orleans. The building had an art deco style, which was perfect for the spirit of a highway called “airline,” a word meant to connote the modern concept of direct travel. In the Metairie stretch of the highways, there was a billboard for a restaurant, the St. Regis, that boasted of serving something called “shrimp in shorts.” The sign’s image showed a shrimp, wearing a bathing suit, diving into a pool to depict a fried shrimp dish in which a bit of the the shell (the shorts) was left, presumably for easier handling. According to legend, the construction of Airline Highway was strongly supported by then Governor Huey Long, who appreciated that it reduced the travel time from what was then the Governor’s mansion to the Roosevelt Hotel, his favorite New Orleans haunt, and whose general manager was also the 1 6 october 2019 myneworleans.com

Long political organization’s treasurer. To this day, there are legends of the “deduct box,” a chest which contained a percentage of state employees’ wages that were deducted for political campaigns. (There is even an exhibit in the current Roosevelt Hotel lobby.) East of New Orleans in the pre-I-10 days, Highway La. 47 was part of the route to the Gulf Coast. At Little Woods a routine was spotting the names on the mailboxes of the fishing camps that lined the way. There were fun names like “Joe’s Place,” “My Retirement,” or “Fishing Hole.” Though the interstate would one day divert the traffic, Katrina eradicated the scene in ’05, leaving behind a sad regiment of empty piers. This edition talks about short trips, and though I-10 has changed the scene, it has made possible going farther quicker. There are no snake farms anymore and shrimp no longer wear shorts; still there are places to explore, each a blend of the past with modern conveniences We urge taking the trips. They are tomorrow’s memories today.


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meet the sales staff

Kate Henry Advertising Sales Manager (504) 830-7216 Kate@myneworleans.com

Meggie Schmidt Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7220 Meggie@myneworleans.com

Danielle Kiletico Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7250 Danielle@MyNewOrleans.com

Rachel Webber Account Executive (504) 830-7249 Rachel@MyNewOrleans.com

Colleen Monaghan Vice President of Sales (504) 830-7215 Colleen@myneworleans.com 1 8 october 2019 myneworleans.com


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speaking out

New Orleans, Antoine Peychaud, created his brand of “bitters,” an aromatic mixture that was originally supposed to be a cure-all for most things that ail people, but that found more credibility as a flavorful ingredient for cocktails. Then there was absinthe, an anise-flavored liquor that, though popular, was in its earlier days banned because it was deemed to be unhealthy. The product, now safe, is back on the market, but during its prohibition two local men created Herbsaint, an anise substitute. (Trivia point here: The word Herbsaint has all the letters in “absinthe” with the addition of the letter “R.”) Today, the Sazerac company makes both On the menu and now on the map Peychaud’s bitters and Herbsaint. There are exhibits about both at the museum. E x c e p t p er h a p s f or t h e a taste for Kentucky rye whiskey. the fact that entrepreneur William Another anise-based drink, Manhattan, no cocktail is as identi- When mixed with the other ingre- Goldring established the Sazerac Ojen, is popular, especially in fied with the town of its origin dients that would comprise the company as the umbrella name uptown Mardi Gras circles. It is as is the Sazerac. Even that New classic Sazerac cocktail, including for a world of other spirits. Most also made by the company now York drink doesn’t have a museum Peychaud’s bitters and absinthe, brands are manufactured by the that the original factory in Spain and a global liquor manufacturing the Sazerac became an American company-owned Buffalo Trace closed. industry carrying its name as the drink with a New Orleans soul. distilleries in Kentucky; others by There is a distillery on premises Sazerac does. There was once a bar on different distilleries. Sazerac, the where whiskey is made, but not Cocktails, like food and music, Exchange Alley, the Sazerac Coffee company, has become one of the sold. Instead it is sent to Kentucky are all the result of fusion. The New House, that specialized in the most important names in the liquor to age for six years before it comes Orleans evolution of Sazerac, the cocktail. Eventually it closed, but industry today, ranking as the back to us in bottles. drink, reflected the city’s French the Roosevelt Hotel claimed the nation’s second largest purveyor We lift our Sazerac to toast the heritage and its prime position as name for its signature bar. For of spirits. company and the museum. Located an American port city. The original decades, the drink was, if not This month, the company took on Canal Street at Magazine, the drink carrying that name was a always the most popular, at least a another big step by opening the facility should be a major attracFrench cognac, Sazerac de Forge curiosity, competing with another Sazerac House, a first-rate tion to local tourism, en Fils, but the realities of the local concoction, the Ramos Gin interactive museum, that but locals need, even city were that, while it may have Fizz and trendy new drinks. tells the story of cocktails. An original more than the tourists, ©Mike Luckovich been French in heritage, it was It might have been that the The place is not a bar, Cartoon for New to learn more about a part of the city’s charAmerican in geography. The traffic Sazerac would be, like pralines although there are samples, Orleans Magazine from upriver included barges from or alligator sauce piquant, merely but those are as tastings. acter. To understand the Kentucky. This sophisticated, but something to be sampled because A Haitian apothecary (phar- city, you also need to understand rugged frontier town, developed you are in New Orleans, except for macist) who had relocated to the spirited heritage.

Sazerac

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julia street with poydras the parrot

Dear Julia, My mother grew up during the Depression and was crazy about cookies. Her absolute favorite was Dad’s oatmeal cookies, which were made right here in New Orleans. Do you know anything about them? Rena Johnson (Harahan)

Dear Julia and Poydras, My uncle gave me an old wooden nickel from Ted’s Frostop Drive-Ins. At one time, it could be exchanged for a free root beer. I know it expired decades ago, but do you or Poydras have any idea when it may have been made? Fred Smith (New Orleans) You know Fred, funny you should ask. Poydras is actually a world recognized expert on the subject of wooden nickels. This expertise has so far earned him book deals and speaking fees totaling nearly $5. Curiously that’s less than the value of a bag of wooden nickels. In December 1964, while promoting its new Chalmette location’s grand opening, Ted’s Frostop Drive-Ins cashed in on the nationwide shortage of pocket change, issuing 50,000 wooden nickels. Each promotional coin could be exchanged for a free root beer at Ted’s Frostop. The promotion resonated with Frostop customers because there really was a nationwide coin shortage. Multiple factors contributed to the lack of circulating pocket change but speculating, collecting and vending machines were frequently identified as culprits. When the price of the component metal exceeded a silver coin’s face value, speculators melted coins and sold the metal. Collectors’ desire to acquire all known variants of each denomination kept many coins out of circulation, while others languished in the change boxes of pay telephones and vending machines. By the way, this is a good time to note that “Ted’s” is not necessarily synonymous with Frostop, a regional fast food franchise that entered the local market in the 1950s. Ted Sternberg, who once owned 15 Frostop franchises in Louisiana and Arkansas, died in 2014 at the age of 85.

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have a question for julia? Send your question to: Julia Street, New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Julia@ NewOrleans Magazine.com

Although Dad’s Original Scotch Oatmeal Cookies made for the local market were baked in New Orleans, the Dad’s cookie brand actually originated in California during the early 20th century. Franchises later spread throughout the United States and Canada. Albert W. Balek, who was associated with a Dad’s Cookie franchise in St. Louis, Missouri, appears to have been involved in bringing the brand to New Orleans around 1930, where a bakery was established at 3017 Tulane Ave. Initially, local franchisee Lee Eddy handled production and distribution from an Iberville Street warehouse, using a 6-truck delivery fleet to service accounts as far away as Lake Charles, Baton Rouge and Alexandria. The cookies were promoted as a health food for school children. Because they kept very well, they proved especially popular with sportsmen and travelers. In the mid-1930s, Otis Luker, who had operated a Dad’s Original Scotch Oatmeal Cookies franchise in Jackson, Mississippi, relocated to the Crescent City, where he incorporated Dad’s Cookie Company of New Orleans. Initially also located at 3017 Tulane Ave., the firm later moved to a larger facility on D’Hemecourt Street before relocating to 3929 Fourth St. in 1949. Luker retired in 1960, turning the reins over to his son. Dad’s Cookie Company of New Orleans eventually faded away, as did nearly all Dad’s Original Scotch Oatmeal Cookies franchises throughout the country. Only one United States franchise remains in operation and uses the original recipe; it is in St. Louis, Missouri.


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Local Color MARQUEE . PERSONA . education . MODINE GUNCH . JOIE D’EVE . IN TUNE

Gabrielle Geiselman-Milone photo

chef aaron sanchez


marquee

October Our top picks for this month’s events by Fritz Esker

New Orleans Film Festival

From October 16-23, the New Orleans Film Festival will celebrate its 30th anniversary with a new lineup of exciting films. Titles are not known as of press time, but last year’s roster included “Green Book,” which went on to win the Oscar for Best Picture. Screenings will be held at venues around town from the Prytania to the Orpheum to the Broad. Information, NewOrleansFilmSociety.org.

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Crescent City Chamber Music Festival

Higgins: The Man, The Boat, The War

The Crescent City Chamber Music Festival’s fourth season will take place from October 3-13. There will be exciting, interactive musical performances at 30 venues across the city, as well as six free performances in various New Orleans venues. Information, CrescentCityChamber MusicFestival.com.

This production tells the story of legendary New Orleanian Andrew Higgins with a mix of live-action newsreel recreation, musical revue, and dramatic history. The show will take place from October 11-November 10 at BB’s Stage Door Canteen in the National World War II Museum. Information, NationalWW2Museum.org.

Gentilly Fest

From October 11-13, Gentilly Fest returns to Pontchartrain Park. Admission is free and there will be a variety of exciting musical acts for attendees to enjoy, as well as a kids’ village. Several local vendors will serve food ranging from red beans and rice to Gulf tacos to yakamein to burgers and hot dogs. Information, GentillyFest.com.


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calendar Sept. 11-Oct. 6: August: Osage County, Southern Rep. Information, SouthernRep.com.

Oct. 19-20: Paw Patrol Live, UNO Lakefront Arena. Information, arena.uno.edu.

Oct. 2-20: Wicked, Saenger Theater. Information, SaengerNOLA.com.

Oct. 19: Trinity Irish Dance Company, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Information, MahaliaJacksonTheater.com.

Oct. 3-13: Crescent City Chamber Music Festival, Various Locations. Information, CrescentCityChamber MusicFestival.com. Oct. 4: Miranda Lambert: Roadside Bars & Pink Guitars Tour, Smoothie King Center. Information, SmoothieKingCenter.com.

Oct. 20: Miranda Sings, Orpheum Theater. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com.

Oct. 4-5, 11-12, 18-19: Oktoberfest

Oct. 23: Peppa Pig Live, Saenger Theater. Information, SaengerNOLA.com.

New Orleans, Deutsches Haus. Information, OktoberfestNOLA.com.

Street and Magazine Street Information, MagazineStreet.com.

Oct. 24: LPO - Romantic German Masters Featuring Cellist Lynn Harrell, Orpheum Theater. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com.

Oct. 5: Beignet Fest, City Park Festival Grounds. Information, BeignetFest.com.

Oct. 25-27: Voodoo Fest, City Park Festival Grounds. Information, VoodooFestival.com.

Oct. 9: Thom Yorke with Andrea Belfi, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Information, MahaliaJacksonTheater.com.

Oct. 25-Nov. 10: November, Rivertown Theaters for the Performing Arts. Information, RivertownTheaters.com.

Oct. 11: Greta Van Fleet, UNO Lakefront Arena. Information, arena.uno.edu.

Oct. 25-27: The Color Purple, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Information, MahaliaJacksonTheater.com.

Oct. 5: Art for Art’s Sake, Julia

Oct. 12: NOLA Mac ’n’ Cheese Fest, Armstrong Park. Information, NOLAMacNCheeseFest.com. Oct. 13: Baby Shark Live!, Mahalia Jackson Theater. Information, MahaliaJacksonTheater.com. Oct. 16-Nov. 10: The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, NOMA’s Besthoff Sculpture Garden. Information, NOLAProject.com. Oct. 17: Dwight Yoakam, Fillmore Theater. Information, FillmoreNOLA.com. Oct. 18-20: Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival, Lafayette Square. Information, JazzAndHeritage.org.

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Oct. 20-21: Country Smooth Festival, NOLA Motorsports Park. Information, CountrySmoothFest.com.

Oct. 29: We Will Rock You: The Musical by Queen, Saenger Theater. Information, SaengerNOLA.com. Oct. 29: The Chainsmokers: World War Joy Tour, Smoothie King Center. Information, SmoothieKingCenter.com. Oct. 30-Nov. 17: Native Gardens, Southern Rep. Information, SouthernRep.com. Oct. 31: LPO - Ancient Spirits: An All Hallows Eve Performance, Orpheum Theater. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com.


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persona

Mexican cuisine and new orleans cuisine are about ...big bold flavors.

his mother’s kitchen to Chef Prudhomme’s side, to celebrity chef appearances on Food Network and beyond. Sanchez currently owns Johnny Sanchez, his Poydras Street restaurant that marries the traditional Mexican from his childhood with the fresh, bold flavors of New Orleans.

Q: Your mom seems to be a part of who you are and a huge inspiration. What did you learn from your mom about cooking and running a kitchen and a restaurant? My mom was adamant that I develop my own style of cooking. Mexican cooking has so many nuances and complex depth of flavors, so I started with a pan-Latin approach. She wanted me to have my own voice in the kitchen.

Q: How did you come to move to New Orleans at the age of 16 and work with Chef Paul Prudhomme? I lost my father when I was

Aaron Sanchez Celebrity chef, cookbook author and restaurateur By Ashley McLellan

Aaron Sanchez has had a long-lived

love affair with New Orleans and its cuisine. Sanchez moved to the city from New York at the age of 16, and trained under the watchful eyes of Chef Paul Prudhomme, a personal

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13 years old, and I was just running around, getting into trouble. She knew I needed an intervention. She had developed a friendship with Chef Prudhomme since taking a cooking class from him in the early 1980s. This was before food television had taken over. He had his PBS show, and there were others like Julia Child and Jacques Pepin, but he really became the voice of Louisiana cooking the old fashioned way, through good food and word of mouth. He was a soft-spoken man, but had much to teach. He had such a presence.

Q: What was it like moving to New Orleans at the age of 16? I moved to a dirty room at friend of Sanchez’s mother (herself a prominent restaurateur). In his new book “Where I Come From: Life Lessons from a Latino Chef,” Sanchez recounts his culinary upbringing, from

the YMCA in the Warehouse District, and I called my mom from a pay phone and told her I didn’t think I could do it. She told me to “you better stick with it” and that in a couple of days I would be staying with Chef Paul at his home. I made it and went to work.

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Q: How does traditional Mexican cuisine fit in with traditional New Orleans cooking at your restaurant Johnny Sanchez? At my restaurant, I wanted it to be inspired by the same flavors that are in traditional Mexican cuisine. This was not going to be a Cajun-Mexican restaurant. It was always going to be Mexican food with fresh local ingredients that we are lucky to have here, the fresh redfish and black drum, shellfish and seafood. Both Mexican cuisine and New Orleans flavors are about being inspired by big, bold flavors.

Q: Why did you want to write this memoir now? So many people told me that I needed to tell my story. I always felt like I was too young, but I have been working in kitchens for so long. I had a career of my own by the time I was 18. I wanted to represent other people like me that might not be the best student, who might have been a fuck up, that you can be a success and go out there. Especially now, I think it’s important to represent and hopefully inspire those kids.

Born/raised: New York Favorite TV show: Vikings, Last Kingdom (I love history) Favorite book: I am reading “Buttermilk Graffiti” by Ed Lee Favorite flavor sno-ball: I don’t really eat sno-balls, except with my son, but I like flavors like pomegranate

Q: What advice do you have for a young person looking to get into the culinary business? It’s important to find a mentor. Make a list of potential mentors that work with different genres of cuisine (like pastry, restaurant chefs, etc.), seek them out, write them a proper letter and try to work with them. It’s important to dedicate sufficient time with each mentor so you have a good variety of experiences and people that influence you. 

Q: What is the thing you feel your readers will be most surprised by after reading your latest book? I think that people will be surprised by how much they can relate to my story, but also the fact that I’ve been able to travel and do so many different things. All of my life, my experiences, in and out of the kitchen, have impacted where I am and where I’m going.

Q: What are the places you to have to go to immediately when you come to New Orleans? It’s so hard to say just one or a few things because there are so many. I’ve got to get my poor boy at Parkway. I love the chargrilled oysters at Drago’s. But there are just so many.

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TRUE CONFESSION: I am a practicing Buddhist; it brings a level of spirituality to my life, it’s about being grateful and keeping life balanced.


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BIZ

Sizing up the state of Louisiana’s

energy industry used to be pretty simple. If the price of crude oil was strong relative to historic values, the state’s oil producers raked in profits. If prices declined or were persistently low, those same businesses felt bottom-line pain. But during the last few decades – since the heady days of high demand and high prices in the 1980s, for example – the energy industry has changed a lot. And today, gauging the health of the business is more complicated than it used to be. On the one hand, the United States is producing more oil than ever, and whereas the country used to import oil from foreign sources in order to meet domestic demand, it has recently become a net exporter of the commodity. Among other things, this has reduced U.S. vulnerability to countries that might seek to use oil as an economic weapon. But the expanding supply has also caused oil prices to languish in a range of $55 to $65 per barrel, well below the $100 mark last seen in 2014. New Orleans, over a period of decades, saw many of the oil companies that once filled downtown office buildings shift much of their workforce to Houston. Even now, the city continues to feel the impact of industry volatility on oilfield service companies throughout the area. Most notably, Tidewater Inc., a global leader in providing service boats to the offshore oil industry and a 34 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

Power Plays Energy industry struggles for footing on shifting sands by Kathy Finn

longtime anchor of the industry in New Orleans, succumbed to market pressures, went through bankruptcy and last year relocated to Houston. Another area service business, Covington-based Hornbeck Offshore Services Inc., which built a thriving business by providing high-tech global-positioning vessels to offshore drillers, also acknowledged a prolonged financial struggle. In its latest earnings report to stockholders, Hornbeck stated: “The Company remains fully cognizant of the challenges

currently facing the offshore oil and gas industry and continues to review its capital structure and assess its strategic options.” Yet, in the midst of the offshore oil industry’s difficulties, a comeback is underway in the natural gas business, in which Louisiana is a major player. Worldwide demand for natural gas rose as cheap gas became more readily available than other fuel types, and Louisiana has benefited from multi-state pipelines that bring the gas to hubs in the southern part of the state. That access has led to construc-

tion and expansion of gas-fed petrochemical plants across south Louisiana, and transportation of their products has fueled growth at area ports. Simultaneously, activity in shale gas originating in massive shallow-rock formations from which producers extract huge amounts of natural gas – has quietly rebounded from a sixyear lull. Drilling in areas such as north Louisiana’s Haynesville Shale field has pushed the state’s natural gas production to a level not seen since 2012. All of which paints a picture of Louisiana’s energy industry that is far more complex than it was in, 1990, for instance, when drillers drilled during the good times and simply waited out the bad ones. Global management consultant Pricewaterhouse Coopers summed up the situation nicely in its latest report on oil and gas trends. “Although the oil and gas industry has always been volatile, there was nonetheless a comfortable predictability to the boom and bust pendulum,” the report states. But now, erratic price fluctuations, “ambiguity about the future of fossil fuels and increasingly contentious trade negotiations … are upending traditional supply and demand fundamentals.” With no clear answers emerging for the industry, the report adds, “Oil and gas executives are essentially trying to set a growth course for their companies on shifting sands.”

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chris rose

Jingle, Jangle Bingle in the woods by Chris Rose

On a recent hike through the

outback meadows and wilds of City Park, I came across a spectacle that stopped me in my literal tracks and – truth be told – depressed me more than a little. There, behind a plot of overgrown grasses and untamed growth, confined behind a sturdy chain link fence in a forlorn gravel lot in the shadow of the 610 overpass – where the general tranquility of the park is drowned out by the cacophony of Interstate traffic – I saw what seemed a familiar sight, but I couldn’t be sure because it was partly obscured by the overgrown brush. There was a woman passing by on her weekend constitutional and I stopped her, perhaps too abruptly. “Excuse me,” I said, then pointing to the large red and white object on the other side of the fence. “But is that Mr. Bingle?” She glanced over and replied, “I believe it is, yes.” 36 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

I was stunned by the sight of this beloved New Orleans cultural icon stretched out on what appeared to be an old, rusted flatbed trailer dressed out as a float – uncovered and seemingly abandoned to the vagaries and corrosive effects of south Louisiana weather. “What is he doing there?” I asked, in an obviously distressed tone. She paused a moment and said, “Hmm, that’s a good question. I guess he’s in timeout?” Mr. Bingle in timeout. What the hell? My companion and I slopped through the tall, swampy grasses to get a better look through the fence. And – jingle, jangle, jingle – it was indeed Mr. Bingle. Out there in the weeds and under the rumble of concrete. He looked so desolate, homeless almost. I nearly expected to see by his side a pizza box top with “Anything Helps, God Bless” scrawled across it in Sharpie.

Then again, he also looked pretty damn happy, bulging blue eyes, that big red bow tie that looks like a smile, his arms outstretched ready for an eternal embrace. I suppose Mr. Bingle is constitutionally incapable of looking miserable. But still. Doesn’t that kinda suck? I mean, just because he’s made of paper mache, that doesn’t mean he doesn’t have feelings. Side note: I was surprised to discover that my companion – a resident of the north shore for the past 20 years – had never heard of him. She was unfamiliar with his impact upon generations of local youth and elders alike, first as a puppet in the display windows of Maison Blanche, then as stuffed animals and other merch, now in his looming, gigantic paper maiche form, formerly suspended above the crowds of holiday shoppers on Canal Street, and now a permanent fixture of City Park’s Celebration

in the Oaks seasonal light display. More unsettling still was that she kept calling him Mr. Binky. (If you don’t understand the disturbing implications of that malaprop, Google it. This ain’t the time or the place to explain it.) Anyway, she found my distress rather absurd. After all, she noted: He looks happy. Yeah, sure, but... I tried to explain to her: Rex, Thoth, Nyx, Iris, Endymion, Orpheus – all the others – they store their paper mache floats in safe, secured, sometimes even climate-controlled shelters to keep them dry, safe and insusceptible to the relentless degrading forces of our less-than-savory weather. Why can we not afford the same comforts to Mr. Bingle? The image, it stuck with me. So much so that, hours later when I ran into an old friend, a local as local can get, and I told her about what I had seen – about the fence, the gravel, the isolation – about the whole wrongness of this situation. “Can you imagine?” I exclaimed. I was disappointed that she was not as emotionally invested into this matter as I was. In the company of her own companions, she seemed determined to reach her own destination forthwith, so she replied: “Maybe he did something wrong?” Which struck me as odd. When the hell did everyone around here start fingering Mr. Bingle as some kind of delinquent, deserving of solitary confinement? He’s a pillar of the community. A legend. Mr. Bingle is Christmas! And so, we were close to home by this point. We held hands and my companion told me she thoroughly enjoyed our Sunday in the park and thanked me for a lovely outing. Me, I was still brooding. It was just another fine walk spoiled.

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jason raish ILLUSTRATION


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modine gunch

Monster Bash Halloween stories by Modine Gunch

You can tell Halloween is

almost here. They’re playing Christmas music in the stores, and they got three rows of mechanical Santas ho-ho-hoing in the front of Walmart. Of course, everything remotely Halloween-y was sold out in July. So if you ain’t the type who plans your entire life three months ahead of time, you got to be creative. My kids’ Halloween costumes were made by loving hands at home with staples and duct tape and black garbage bags. You can create a lot with that when you’re desperate. My brothers-in-law, Leech and Lurch, are also creative. Years ago, when they were 12 and 13, my mother-in-law, Ms. Larda, left them home to give out the candy while she took the younger ones out to trick-or-treat. They decided the candy was too good to give away. So they made a life-size dummy with a cape like Dracula and dangled it on a black nylon ribbon out a upstairs window above the front walk. Whenever any little kids approached, they dropped it down and scared the bejesus out of them. Then they finished off the

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candy themselves. Naturally Ms. Larda found out, and yelled at them for a week, and they didn’t ever do it again. Until the next year. By that time, there was a new crop of trick-or-treaters, and Lurch and Leech perfected Dracula with a little microphone attached to his collar that went MWAHAHAHAHAhahaha! They terrified generations of little Chalmations with this. Last year Ms. Larda decided to give a little Halloween party— mostly ladies she goes to bingo with. She decided it would start after everybody’s grandkids had been taken trick-or-treating and were tucked in bed with their teeth brushed. She told Lurch and Leech, but they are oblivious. They mistake the first group of ladies coming up the walk for late trick-or-treaters dressed as old people. So they dropped down Dracula and turned on the MWAHAHAHAHAhahaha! That caused a WHOLE lot of shrieking and purse-bashing and Yvonne DelBerto fell flat on her back and it’s a miracle she didn’t

break a hip. After Ms. Larda ran them off, the boys decided to take Dracula—they had to fix his nose first: the ladies squished it flat — out for adult fun in the French Quarter. Now, Chalmette on Halloween is full of cute little kids on the prowl for candy. It ain’t like the Quarter, which is weird enough on normal nights, but on Halloween becomes even stranger than any bar scene in Star Wars. Lurch and Leech decide to lurk on my gentleman friend Lust’s private balcony over the Sloth Lounge, dangle Dracula all the way down to the sidewalk, and wait. And they waited. And waited. But nobody paid Dracula no mind. People strolling along with fake knives sticking out of fake eyeballs; or extra heads; or wrapped up in red-stained mummy bandages, just excused themselves as they step around him. A few monsters stopped and struck up a conversation, evidently assuming the maniacal laugh

meant agreement with whatever they were saying. A lady with most of her bosom hanging out rubbed up against him, but she didn’t get the reaction she wanted and sashayed off. It finally dawned on them that in Chalmette, Dracula might be terrifying. But in the Quarter, he was just one of the crowd. Then Arnie Aleman stepped out of the Sloth for a smoke. He mistook Dracula’s nose for a cigarette and gave him a light. Dracula’s nose was unfortunately stuffed with dried pine straw, and -WHOOSH— he went up in flames. Now, fire in the Quarter is a serious thing. Everybody stopped and threw whatever was in their go-cups on him. From above, Lust reached over and cut the ribbon just as Angie, the Sloth bartender, zipped outside with a fire extinguisher and put out the fire. And just like that, Dracula was gone. Disappeared in a puff of smoke. The crowd stood around pop-eyed, holding their empty go-cups. Arnie swore off drinking on the spot. Talk about creative. You can’t buy that at Walmart.

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LORI OSIECKI ILLUSTRATION


myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 3 9


JOIE D’EVE

Bracing For It Visiting the Orthodontist By Eve Crawford Peyton

With Ruby recently starting

seventh grade, I have been going back in time to my own middle school experience. I remember the excitement of getting a locker and the (much more short-lived) thrill of having a PE uniform to change into. I remember awkward dances and questionable fashion choices and the joy of being invited to an exclusive party and the nagging ache of knowing I hadn’t been included. I remember my friendships (many of which I maintain to this day) and my feuds. I remember playing Spin the Bottle at a party and then being so embarrassed the next week when the boy I kissed wouldn’t even look at me – so embarrassed that I hid in the library for a month straight and helped the librarian re-shelve books; I should list my resultant knowledge of the Dewey decimal system as a skill 4 0 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

on my résumé. I remember the smell of the old hallways and the taste of the sandwich my mother packed me every day for lunch. Most of all, though, I remember my braces. I had horrible teeth, crooked and crowded, and I was relieved when I got braces in seventh grade, although I also felt guilty because I knew they were expensive and my parents couldn’t really afford them. As a result, I tried not to complain – and failed miserably because I was 12 and I complained like it was my job. Braces sucked. They hurt. They were unsightly. They got food stuck in them. I couldn’t eat half the stuff I wanted to eat … or I ate it anyway and broke brackets off. And I had to wear them forrrrreverrrrr.  That’s not preteen hyperbole. I got braces on my

teeth in seventh grade and did not and he didn’t even have to have get them off until the week before his wisdom teeth pulled. I took my senior pictures. That’s She didn’t. She got his face and my teeth. more than five years. I don’t regret it. I needed braces, And now, as I watch her and even at the time, I was grateful encounter her own middle school to have a mother who made sure drama and wish I could swoop in I had everything I needed even to save her from all of it, I know if she didn’t know how she was there is one more thing I can’t save going to pay for it. I also had a her from: braces. great orthodontist for Ruby has her first the second half of my orthodontic consult treatment who was Excerpted from Eve coming up. I imagine Crawford Peyton’s determined to not pull a blog, Joie d’Eve, which she’ll have a full-on single tooth, even with appears each Friday on mouth of hardware my crowded jawline, MyNewOrleans.com by Christmas. and I’m thankful for I’m sure they’ve that, too. made some advances in the 25 But man, I hated it at the time, years since they put them on me, and when I found out I was preg- but honestly, I can’t tell quite what nant, my dearest hope was that those advances might be because Ruby would get her dad’s perfect they still look really really un-fun. teeth – they’re beautifully, naturally I just hope she doesn’t complain straight; he has never had a cavity; like I did.

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jane sanders illustration


myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 41


in tune

must-see music OCTOBER 1

John Medeski funks up Republic NOLA. OCTOBER 3

Bit Brigade Performs classis NES games Contra and Metroid at Gasa Gasa.

BEck

OCTOBER 4

Greensky Bluegrass charms the Joy. OCTOBER 4

Miranda Lambert rocks the Smoothie King Center. OCTOBER 8

Aldous Harding brings folk to Gasa Gasa.

Beyond the Limits Plus a splash of “Voodoo”

OCTOBER 9

Thom Yorke experiments at the Mahalia Jackson.

by Mike Griffith OCTOBER 11

When you think about music in New Orleans ELOHIM and breakout producer Iglooghost. On Sunday in October there are two great things that come to indie rockers Hippo Campus will be lighting things mind: The first is of course the Voodoo Music + up. Like any event in New Orleans, Voodoo is about Arts Experience’s annual blow out at the end of the more than just the music. The festival features a wide month; the second is the overflow from Austin City selection of local delicacies including offerings from Limits that brings a great selection of artists to town Blue Oak BBQ, Boucherie, Dat Dog, The Big Cheezy and more. If that weren’t enough, there is a large art at the start of the month. This year Voodoo returns to the City Park Festival market and a number of interactive art installations grounds (October 25-27) with another all-star lineup as well. Grab your costume and head out to the park. with Guns N’ Roses, Beck and Post Malone holding When Austin City Limits expanded their early down the headlining spots. They are joined by Brandi October festival from one weekend to two in 2013, Carlile, Interpol, Bassnectar, The National and REZZ. New Orleans began to reap the benefits of sitting just Brandi Carlile is on fire this year both in terms of her outside of ACL’s performance exclusion area. Artists solo work and as a member of the excellent super- that are booked into the festival for both weekends group—The Highwomen. The National have will often make a quick trip our way during also put together an excellent festival show. the week for a show before heading back for their second festival performance. This Both of these performances were among the Playlist of mentioned year, catch performances by Radiohead highlights of the summer festival schedule. bands available frontman Thom Yorke, singer-songwriter Of course Guns N’ Roses is a huge get for at: http://bit.ly/ any festival. The last time Axl, Slash and InTune10-19 BANKS and electronic producer GRiZ. company were in New Orleans, they sold out Yorke brings his Tomorrow’s Modern the Superdome, so expect a large and excited crowd. Boxes tour to the Mahalia Jackson on the 9th. GRiZ As usual, Voodoo’s organizers have done a great job plays the Fillmore on the 12th and BANKS plays the with up-and-coming bands, as well. Make sure to Fillmore with Kevin Garrett on the 16th. All three of catch the Florida based funk ensemble Magic City these shows will be intimate encounters with artist Hippies on Friday. On Saturday, you have the rising who headline festival stages. Make sure to catch at indie rock star Japanese Breakfast, electro pop icon least one.

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4 2 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

Greta Van Fleet rocks Lakefront Arena. OCTOBER 16

BANKS mesmerizes the Fillmore. OCTOBER 17

Dwight Yoakam rocks Fillmore. OCTOBER 26

Lucero jams at Tipitina’s. OCTOBER 29

Good Morning rocks Gasa Gasa. OCTOBER 31NOVEMBER 1

Widespread Panic jams for two nights at Lakefront Arena. Dates are subject to change; email Mike@ MyNewOrleans.com or contact him through Twitter @Minima.


myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 43


Chronicles

Holey Doughnut! Krispy Kreme’s a New Orleans creation?

Hot and sweet: who doesn’t

love the melt-in-your-mouth goodness of a classic Krispy Kreme doughnut? In this political season, one thing all campaign headquarters of every party will have in common: the ubiquitous box(es) of Krispy Kreme product. What fuels the phone bank, encourages the corner signholders, keeps up the courage of the canvassers plodding the streets with address lists, puts something in the hands of the campaign bigwigs as they huddle in the back office? Krispy Kreme tops that ballot. Hot, sugary, squishy: there is just something about a Krispy Kreme Original Glazed that gets your mouth’s attention. In the birthplace of the beignet, the humble doughnut has always found a market. There are national brands (Dunkin’ Donuts, for one) and local competitors, including District, Blue Dot, City, Bakers Dozen and Buttermilk Drop. One company, dating from the 1960s 4 4 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

and still with a handful of locations in the area, is Tastee Donuts, begun by Gil Copeland, brother of Al Copeland (father of Popeye’s Chicken.) Krispy Kreme seems to be a latecomer: 50 years ago, you couldn’t even buy one in town. According to a September 5, 1963, article in the Times-Picayune, Krispy-Kreme Doughnut Company of Winston-Salem, North Carolina, first registered in Louisiana as a foreign corporation in late August, 1963. By November, 1974, Pap’s Food Store at 1900 Mirabeau Ave. was advertising Krispy Kreme Do Nuts “received and dated fresh daily.” By 1979, local Winn-Dixie’s boasted “Krispy Kreme Glazed Do-Nuts” on the shelves. Grocery sales weren’t enough to satisfy eager consumers, but Krispy Kreme did not put stores on the ground in the New Orleans area until the year 2000. The first location opened on December 1 at Clearview Parkway and West

Metairie Avenue, and it’s still there. “A national emblem of indulgence is coming home,” the TimesPicayune story began. Coming home? Well, Krispy Kreme has always acknowledged that the original inventor of its recipe was…a New Orleanian! The Nashville Tennessean newspaper, in a 1974 obituary for Krispy Kreme founding family member Lewis Rudolph, recounted that Rudolph grew up on the family farm near Paducah, Kentucky. In the early 1930s, the father of the family, Plumie Rudolph, ran a general store in Paducah. Plumie’s brother-in-law Ishmael Armstrong, and his son Vernon Rudolph began making and selling yeast-raised doughnuts for the store “following a recipe from a New Orleans chef.” Lewis Rudolph, Vernon’s younger brother, dropped out of high school to help make doughnuts. Armstrong left the company, the doughnut business expanded, and by 1937 the brand was named

Krispy Kreme. It then expanded to Atlanta and Nashville, and established in Winston-Salem, North Carolina in 1937. In various versions of the story, the “New Orleans chef” sold his unsuccessful store in Paducah to the Rudolph brothers and added the doughnut recipe as lagniappe. The chef’s name was supposedly Joseph LeBeau. In another version of the story, told in 2003 to The Duke Chronicle college newspaper reporter/ student Ruth Carlitz, there was no Joseph LeBeau in Paducah, but there was a chef from New Orleans named Joseph LeBoeuf cooking on a boat on the Ohio River. Carver Rudolph, son of Krispy Kreme founder Vernon, related that Krispy Kreme was researching its origins in 1997 and a local historian discovered Leboeuf, but by then, he had died. Carver Rudolph also related what the fabled recipe included: “fluffed egg whites, mashed potatoes, sugar, shortening and skim milk … chilled and mixed with flour and then fried and covered in glaze.” Krispy Kreme made with potatoes? Well, who knows? That’s a corporate secret. As for LeBoeuf, no Joseph appeared in city directories from 1900 to 1930, but there was a Frank LeBoeuf in the 1920s and 30s who had a restaurant, once located on Front Street near the river. Perhaps the doughnut maker was a relative. If so, he created a winner. Krispy Kreme grew from a regional chain to an international presence. After being sold to Beatrice Foods, and then being bought back by franchisees, Krispy Kreme was sold in 2016 to German investment firm JAB Beech for $1.36 billion. Now that leaves a sweet taste! •


myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 45


home

Dianna’s French bulldog, Poppy, snoozes on the sofa in the custom slate-colored den. Painting above sofa by Tony Mose.

Bohemian Luxury Dianna Knost’s Cottage of Curiosities by Lee Cutrone photographed by Greg Miles

World traveler, designer, purveyor of bohemian

luxury, collector, nature lover, and do-it-yourselfer are just some of the hats that Dianna Knost wears – and all are evident in the Uptown cottage where she lives. 4 6 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

Locals got to know Knost’s style in 2012 when she opened her store, AKA Stella Gray, a collective of organic finds, jewelry, pottery, tribal textiles, animal hides, and unusual art and home décor. Knost closed the store in 2018 but has infused her

home with the same aesthetic, though she says it’s the store that was an extension of the houses she’s done rather than the other way around. She’s renovated five houses to date and never tires of surrounding herself with the things she loves. “I’ve always traveled,” said the Baton Rouge native, who at one time, visited Africa on a regular basis. “I seem to always pick up things like turtle shells and bones and skulls and bring them back.” Knost’s look, which she alternately describes as bohemian luxury, a cabinet of curiosities, and a fancy garage sale, is part 16th century vanitas painting (skulls, feathers, butterflies and birds), part hip traveler (vintage Kuba cloths and bowls of antlers), and part homebody (she cooks organic meals for her two dogs and surrounds herself with fresh flowers). It’s also a mix of opposites – delicate and edgy, rough and polished, serious and cheeky, old and new. She made an offer on the New Orleans house before she entered the front door. Located on land that was once part of the Livaudais Plantation, the side-hall cottage has original crown moldings, ceiling medallions, fireplaces and a carriage house. Having researched


Above: Dianna’a penchant for mixing high and low is at work in the dining room; a painted table, once used for her son’s train set and later as a work surface in her store, is layered with an animal print and mixed with several types of chairs; midcentury style chairs from Wayfair.com; above the table hangs a painted Aiden Gray chandelier; bespoke mirrored panels with butterflies made from pieces of the Livaudais Plantation deed adorn the pocket doors; mirrored panels by Louis St. Lewis. Top, right: The 19th century side-hall cottage is located on land that was once part of Livaudais Plantation; furnishings with black and white striped accents dress the front porch.

the property, Knost believes it dates from the 1860s. She improved the exterior, painted and landscaped. She also remodeled both the kitchen and the master bath with modern conveniences and designer refinement, while still respecting the historic character of the house. Case in point: an exposed beam above the casement opening that now frames the kitchen. Contractors who remodeled the space suggested removing or painting

it, but Knost liked the raw patina of the wood contrasted with the elegant marble and metal surfaces of the space. Likewise, the master bath’s minimalist wet room has a vestige of the past: a clawfoot tub that was original to the house and that Knost repurposed. This is a house with plenty to observe. Furnishings, a mix of high and low, include a carved vestibule from a Paris church, a chest from Singapore, and an antique tribal drum from Africa. A myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 47


Top, left: Mantel-to-ceiling mirrors in the living and dining rooms add modernity and visually enlarges the spaces; Dianna customized the pendant fixture in the living room by beading it and finishing it with a tassle featuring one of the rocks she collects; animal hides, Asian influence, a worn trunk and organic elements give the room a well-traveled look. Bottom, left: Nudes by Lisa DiStefano occupy wall space above an antique in a hallway. Top, right: A side-hall, high ceilings, crown moldings and transoms are among the original architectural features of the house; the moth painting at left is by Jason Horton (at Gallery Orange); Dianna repurposed an antique carved frame as a work of art by pairing it with a monochromatic flight of hand-made butterflies. The master bath’s minimalist wet room has an open shower on one side and a clawfoot tub on the other.


Dianna renovated the kitchen from scratch but left elements of the original architecture of the cottage: a rustic, unpainted beam above the casement opening and worn wooden floors now painted with a distressed finish.

simple painted table that once held her son’s toy train set, now serves as a dining table, layered with an animal hide. Above it hangs an Aidan Gray chandelier from AKA Stella Gray. There are musical instruments (often played by friends after small dinner parties), a basket of blankets for the dogs, a sawfish picked up

at an estate sale, an alligator skull from a client, bones secretively stockpiled by her son during trips to Wyoming and given to her as a gift, a tiny and strikingly beautiful hummingbird mysteriously preserved by nature’s own hand. “I’ve always had a fascination with animals, plants and stones,” said Knost, who prefers the stones with holes. Because it takes a long time for water to wear through a rock, she views each of her perforated treasures as a symbol of persistence. Her own brand of persistence

includes a never-ending slew of creative ideas often brought to life with the help of artist friends. The most recent is a collaborative bespoke installation of mirrored panels adorning the pocket doors between her living and dining rooms. Known as Églomisé, a French term that refers to the process of applying design and gilding to the rear of glass to produce a mirrored finish, the panels were made by North Carolina “pop art provocateur” Louis St. Lewis. Each is subtly embellished with whimsical butter-

flies made from the French deed for Livaudais Plantation. Lewis’s head appears on one of the butterflies as a playful signature. Art by Lisa DiStefano, Nate Sheaffer, Jason Horton, Demond Matsuo, Tony Mose, Nancy Rhodes Harper, George Marks and Kimberly Santini are also part of Knost’s livable luxe. “My ideal life would be to live in a beautiful hotel,” she said, pointing out enviable perks like room service. “But I can’t, so I’ve created that at home.”

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myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 49


OneTank Getaways Short Drives from New Orleans

New Orleans may be “America’s Most Interesting City,” so it’s easy to become complacent with all there is to do and see. But the region surrounding our city offers historic and cultural destinations, many of which may be accessed with only a tank of gas. Here are five unique cities offering fall festivals and fun foods, peaceful respites and parties, culture and comedy. And all are just a short drive away.

By C h e r é C o e n


Natchez

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t’s a three-hour drive through Baton Rouge to reach historic Natchez, perched high above the Mississippi River. While many visitors enjoy stays at the numerous antebellum homes untouched by Union forces during the Civil War, for those who prefer peace and quiet there’s Brandon Hall Plantation situated right on the Natchez Trace Parkway. Built in 1856 by Gerard Brandon III, son of the first native-born governor of Mississippi, Brandon Hall is now a luxurious bed and breakfast run by John Kaiser Harriss and his wife, Ashley, both with ties to New Orleans. The main house with its massive hallway, exquisite crown molding and period antiques offer five guestrooms, and two modern cottages near the back patio and fountain.

The acreage includes a pond surrounded by woods with hiking trails, an 1833 children’s cemetery and the Trace at the end of the driveway. Natchez native Kaiser Harris attended Tulane business school where he met Ashley, whose family migrated to New Orleans from Florida. They moved to Houston while Kaiser worked in the oil and gas industry, but when they desired a change, they found a plantation house for sale. “It was a nice way to move back, home to Natchez for me and for Ashley to be closer to family,” Kaiser Harris said. What’s unique about Brandon Hall Plantation is the location. The bed and breakfast is one accommodation, if not the only one, located right on the Natchez Trace, part of the U.S. National Parks Service.


facing page and top, left: Brandon Hall Plantation. Toni Sheppard photographs. Bottom, left: The Natchez Balloon Festival. Bottom, right: King’s Tavern's flatbread

“If you didn’t know we were here you’d have driven past,” he explained. “We can’t put a sign on the road because of the federal restrictions. It’s a blessing and a curse.” The natural beauty remains the blessing. But even being a remote location, downtown Natchez is only 15 minutes away. “It’s so peaceful and quiet out here,” Harris said. “Even if the house is full, it’s so quiet.” Over in Natchez, however, things are hopping this time of year. The Natchez Balloon Festival soars over the river October 18-20 with live music and the competitive balloon race. The inaugural Y’all Means All Natchez Festival to raise funds for

community mental health takes place the weekend of October 25-26, organized by John Grady Burns, a floral expert who owns the boutique Nest downtown. The festival features a Friday night wine and cheese reception at Choctaw Hall, a performance by country artist Ty Herndon and drag queen appearance by Nina West at Saturday’s “Battle of the Belles.” Like Harris, Burns returned home after years in Atlanta. “It’s a very special town,” he said of Natchez. “There’s always something to do if that’s what you want. But it’s also nice to sit and relax.”

Dining out

Start the morning with a cup of Joe from Steampunk Coffee Roasters. For a romantic meal, try Pearl Street Pasta. Just leave your cares behind. The restaurant has been named the “Best Place to Ruin your Diet” by Mississippi Magazine. For something more casual, with a ghost or two, King’s Tavern serves up fabulous flatbreads and drinks produced with products from neighboring Charboneau Distillery.


Bay St. Louis and Ocean Springs

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he Mississippi Coast offers a quick escape from New Orleans — an hour or so drive — with the quaint towns of Bay St. Louis and Ocean Springs bookending the small stretch

of land bordering the Gulf of Mexico. Both appeal to artists and art lovers, with fall art-related festivals, boutiques and galleries and museums dedicated to artists who once called the Coast home. In downtown Ocean Springs, there are 140


Dining out

Kait Sukiennik always cooks up a sweet and a savory biscuit daily (and we always order both) at Greenhouse on Porter in Ocean Springs, and visitors may enjoy the actual greenhouse in back, complete with house cat. Enjoy a unique lunch entrée at Starfish Café, a non-profit teaching kitchen in Bay St. Louis where diners pay what they will.

left: the inn at ocean ocean springs; right: Starfish Café

things to experience within walking distance, according to Cynthia Dobbs Sutton, executive director of the Ocean Springs Chamber of Commerce. In addition, the town’s a haven for regional artists, she said, with approximately 300 artists in the Ocean Springs Art Association. “Everything is one-of-a-kind, locally owned,” Sutton said of the town’s artwork for sale. Ocean Springs was once home to eclectic artist Walter Anderson, who now has a museum dedicated to his work, along with Shearwater Pottery, his family’s ceramic art studio that’s still in existence. Walter’s brother, Peter Anderson, headed Shearwater as a master potter and every November, Ocean Springs celebrates with the Peter Anderson Arts & Crafts Festival, the largest arts festival in Mississippi and the Gulf Coast. This year’s event, November 2-3, features artists and

artisans, musicians and food vendors from around the country. The fastest way to reach the Coast is at Bay St. Louis, a town that intrigued a Batesville, Mississippi, school teacher who taught herself to paint while caring for her mother. Once settled in Bay St. Louis, Alice Moseley’s artistic talent took off and visitors can view more than 50 original pieces of her folk art at the Alice Moseley Folk Art & Antique Museum located inside the 1876 train station. Places to stay on the Coast run the gamut. The Roost and The Inn at Ocean Springs provide both elegance and convenience, allowing guests to walk nearly everywhere, including the town’s beachfront. Casual comfort is what owner Nikki Moon strives for at Bay Town Inn in Bay St. Louis, where rooms include stocked kitchens, sitting areas and rocking chairs on the porch.


St. Francisville

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s the days drift toward All Hallows Eve and the veil between life and death grows thin, thoughts turn to St. Francisville, home to one of the country’s most haunted houses. The Myrtles Plantation offers ghost tours year-round but more in October when it’s not unusual for 1,200 ghost-seekers to visit on a Saturday, said general manager Morgan Moss. “We have a heavier volume on the property in October and we do the tours more frequently,” he said. The oldest building dates to 1794, with the main plantation house and its massive veranda built in 1796. Many owners have called the Myrtles home, and some long deceased are

believed to remain on site. The most famous ghost haunting the home is Chloe, a plantation slave who allegedly poisoned members of the family and was murdered when caught. Visitors, however, have reported 10 different spirits on the plantation grounds, Moss said. In addition to the ghost and historic tours, visitors may enjoy staying in the plantation’s 18 rooms, six in the main house, six garden rooms next to the patio and six individual cottages surrounding a romantic pond with gazebo. New to The Myrtles this year is Restaurant 1796, with its exposed kitchen, elaborate hearth and full-service bar. A family-style breakfast for guests is served in the restaurant’s Bayou Room. St. Francisville contains numerous antebellum homes and plantations, so there are several other


historic bed and breakfasts to choose from, most featuring elegant guest rooms, home tours and full Southern breakfasts. For something hawking back to the past but not quite as far as the Civil War, try the 3V Tourist Courts at Magnolia, a row of 1938 renovated “Bonnie and Clyde” style cabins complete with alcove for a car. The longstanding Magnolia Café exists right outside your door so stop for a meal where locals eat. For a coffee break, live music or a scoop of gelato, Birdman Coffee & Books is only a few extra steps away. For something completely unique, go to jail. The Angola Prison Rodeo and Craft Show happens every Sunday facing page: in October, the longest The Myrtles Plantation. running prison rodeo top: Magnolia in the nation. Inmates Café middle: southern garden compete and ride horses symposium bottom: at 2 p.m., plus sell their The Myrtles’ Restaurant 1796. arts and crafts beginning at 9 a.m. Gardeners may prefer something more genteel, enjoying the Southern Garden Symposium October 18 and 19 at Afton Villa Gardens and Hemingbough. The event features workshops and lectures but also an evening gala and a Saturday afternoon tea. At the end of October, dozens of artists and craftspeople brings their wares to town October 26-27 for the Yellow Leaf Arts Festival. In addition, visitors will discover live music, children’s activities and farmers selling local produce.

Dining out

Grab a craft cocktail like the Smoky Magnolia at The Myrtles’ Restaurant 1796, then enjoy farm to table fare cooked on the establishment’s 10-foot wood-fired hearth. The fire’s ambiance — amid hopefully cool fall weather — makes a perfect nightcap after a rousing ghost tour of the plantation.


Natchitoches

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hirty years ago, one of the country’s most beloved plays was transformed for the silver screen and premiered as a film starring some of the biggest names in Hollywood. Playwright Robert Harling hailed from Natchitoches and set “Steel Magnolias” within his hometown, a story of a young mother fighting diabetes and the strong women she calls friends. The film, based on Harling’s sister Susan Harling Robinson, remained loyal to the play and used Natchitoches for almost all of its locations. This year, Louisiana’s oldest town celebrates the 30th anniversary of “Steel Magnolias” with a “Blush and Bashful” Weekend November 7-10. Events include an Armadillo Cake Contest (the pastry was the groom’s cake in the movie’s wedding scene), an Easter Egg Hunt in Beau Jardin (resembling the scene in the film), a movie panel discussion, displays at the Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame and a showing of the film at Parkway Cinema, where the movie premiered in 1989. There will also be a guided tour of the town’s film sites, including the Harling family house and the beauty shop that inspired the story and setting for the play and movie. Sunday’s brunch at the Prudhomme-Rouqier House will be catered by Lasyone’s, known for Natchitoches meat pies. Visit Natchitoches.com/SteelMagnolias for tickets and more information. Visitors may also stay the night at the Steel Magnolia House bed and breakfast, the house used in the film where the main characters lived. Located in the heart of Natchitoches, the B&B offers guest rooms with

character names such as the Shelby, Ouiser and Clairee. The home’s history dates to the early 1800s and is believed to have been used as a Civil War hospital, as well as moving slaves along the Underground Railroad. Most people come for the film’s connection, however. Actresses Sally Field, Julia Roberts and Tom Skerritt were part of the film’s family that lived in the home and Dolly Parton, Shirley McLaine, Daryl Hannah and Olympia Dukakis enjoyed the property at the film’s wedding reception scene. facing page: the steel magnolia house bed and breakfast. right: Cane River Commissary

The Steel Magnolia House will also be part of the 65th Annual Fall Pilgrimage/Tour of Homes October 11-13 in Natchitoches. The tour includes the American Cemetery Mourning Tour on Friday, October 11, the site of the emotional climatic scene in the film. On Saturday, October 12, tour organizers will recreate Shelby’s wedding reception at the Steel Magnolia House with live music and an armadillo cake. On Sunday, visitors may tour Saint Augustine Church, where the wedding scene was filmed, and Cherokee Plantation, where cast and crew partied after filming was completed. Locals who worked or starred in the film will be on hand to offer their personal reminiscences. For those who can’t make the anniversary weekend or Pilgrimage, the Steel Magnolia House offers tours every weekend, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays and 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays.

Dining out

Nothing says Natchitoches more than Lasyone’s Meat Pie restaurant, which has been serving up traditional pies and other Southern and Creole dishes for decades. We adore the meat pies but the hand-held crawfish pies are equally delicious. A drive down Cane River to visit the unique Creole heritage and plantations makes for a perfect Sunday outing, with the Cane River Commissary a great stopping off point. Start with the Shell Beach Sampler — mini meat pies, artichoke wontons and cheddar bites.


Why MSY? Meet John Moisant, the Airport’s Namesake

By Mike Scott

t was cold in New Orleans on the fateful morning of December 31, 1910. But John Moisant wasn’t put off by the cold. He wasn’t put off by many things, in fact. Maybe gravity, on some level, but even then not as much as others. “The King of Aviators” was how The Daily Picayune described him in a headline on Jan. 1, 1910, but Moisant was also a daredevil by default. All pilots of the time were.  After all, by 1910 it had been only seven years since the Wright brothers were credited with having invented the first successful airplane. The ensuing years had seen advances in flight, but it was still an exceedingly dangerous game.  “I have been asked to tell why I ‘defy death to conquer

over the air,’” Moisant contemporary Ralph Johnstone wrote in a newspaper column in 1910. “I fly to live. If I didn’t have to, I wouldn’t. It’s going to get me some day. Sooner or later it’s going to get us all.” By the time Johnstone’s column was published in The New Orleans Item on December 4, 1910, it had already gotten him. Plummeting 900 feet to his death in an exhibition flight over Denver, he became the 29th prominent “birdman” to die in a two-year span.  The big question was who the 30th would inevitably be. And the 31st. And the 32nd …  Which brings us back to John Moisant, the man whose legacy lives on – to the befuddlement of many a modern traveler – in New Orleans’ three-letter airport code, MSY. As the city prepares to open its new, $1 billion airport, it’s only fitting to revisit his story and to explain those letters.


The daredevil aviation pioneer after whom New Orleans’ airport was named once thrilled the city with his daredevil stunts. Until …

Aviation pioneer John Moisant, the man after whom New Orleans’ airport was named, with his cat, Mademoiselle Fifi, who often accompanied him in the cockpit. Photo courtesy of the Library of Congress.


Although one of the better-known pilots of his day, Moisant wasn’t an incredibly experienced flyer. An Illinois native who grew up in northern California, he had been flying for only about a year before coming to New Orleans for a multi-day, multi-event competition in December 1910. What he lacked in cockpit time, however, he more than made up for in zeal. Not only was he as daring as any other flyer of his day, but he once designed and built his own aircraft. Crafted of an aluminum alloy, it is recognized as the first all-metal airplane. He called it “L’Écrevisse,” which is French for “The Crawfish.” Against all odds, it actually flew. And then it crashed. Remarkably, Moisant survived. Just as remarkably, he returned to the air.  He was so undeterred, in fact, he set out to improve upon his original “Crawfish” design. In the meantime, he flew an open-cockpit, wood-and-cloth Blériot monoplane. It was described, ominously, as resembling a coffin with wings.  But if flying in 1910 was a dangerous game, it was also a lucrative one. Hefty purses were awarded for those willing to risk it all. Just two months before his December flight in New Orleans, Moisant won a $10,000 race to the Statue of Liberty in New York. (He was later disqualified on a technicality; the prize money went to another flyer.)  That combination of big danger and big-money prizes transformed such airshows into compelling spectator events. It also transformed pilots into celebrities. Moisant, who was known to fly with a grey kitten named Mademoiselle Fifi, regularly thrilled crowds with his attempts at airspeed records, at endurance records, at flights over major cities (a decidedly novel thing at the time).  His exploits, and those of other early aviators were covered breathlessly by newspapers, running under such headings as “Stories of Stirring Sport” and “Sports of Speed and Skill.”  One popular competition: aerial “bomb-throwing,” in which flyers tossed fire bombs onto targets below. Crowds loved it. Firefighters, not so much -- especially after a tent serving as an airplane hangar in New Orleans’ City Park caught fire after

A plane piloted by John Moisant sits overturned in a photo dated October 1910, which would have placed it just two months before the flight that claimed his life in Harahan. Photo courtesy of the Library of Congress.


“Moisant was a man of indomitable character,” fellow flyer Roland Barros said at the time. “He seemed to be absolutely without fear, and we other aviators have often marveled at his daring. The world has lost a remarkable man.”

being accidentally hit in an international aerial competition in 1910. By the time he traveled to New Orleans in December that same year, Moisant’s myriad accomplishments -- the first passenger flight over a city (Paris,) the first passenger flight across the English Channel, the first compassguided flight in an airplane, that revoked victory in the Statue of Liberty race -- had already made him a star.   It had also earned him a deal worth a reported $104,000 a year to showcase his aerial derring-do around the country. That’s well more than the equivalent of $2.5 million in 2019 currency, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics.  There was money to be made in New Orleans, too, in the form of the $4,000 Michelin Cup prize -- the equivalent of more than $100,000 today -- to be awarded to the flyer who logged the longest sustained single flight of the year.  The clock was ticking for the 1910 title, though. When Moisant set out on December 31, 1910, there were mere hours before the New Year dawned. If he was to claim the prize, he would have to fly more than the 363 miles logged a day earlier during a nearly eight-hour flight by French aviator Maurice Tabuteau.  That was by design, though. Moisant wanted to wait until the last minute so he’d know exactly what mark he’d have to beat to claim the prize. He also didn’t want to leave anyone else

any time to better his mark. It’s not that he needed the money. Moisant and his brothers had made a mint in the sugar trade in El Salvador. (They were also known for making revolution in El Salvador, but that’s another story.)  It was glory he was apparently after, and the thrill of dancing on the edge.  On December 24, 1910, a week before his year-end flight, he delighted New Orleanians with an unannounced sojourn over the city -- the first time many locals had likely seen an airplane in flight. Taking off from City Park, he buzzed Canal Street, he circled the Central Business District, he flew across the Mississippi River and soared over Gretna before returning to City Park.   A week later, when Moisant climbed into the cockpit of a borrowed 50-horsepower Blériot monoplane on that last, chilly day of 1931, he was dressed warmly: flannels, two sweaters, wool socks. He wrapped newspapers around his legs and feet. Then came his overalls, another layer of newspaper, followed by a second pair of overalls. Suitably guarded against the high-altitude chill, he then started the plane’s engine. Newspaper accounts don’t say whether he shrugged when he did it, but he probably shrugged.  At 9:35 a.m., he was airborne, taking off from the city for the 10-minute flight to a 4-mile course staked out on a stockyard near Harahan. The plan was for him to circle the course a few times, a sort of test flight, before landing and fueling up for what would be eight more hours of circling.  He made it only two laps.  The Picayune’s front-page account of what happened next:   “Coming around on this third lap, (he) prepared to descend from a height of 200 feet. He dipped at a sharp angle, and when about twenty-five feet from the ground his machine suddenly became vertical and he was pitched forward. He shot through the air as though hurled from a catapult, going head first, and landed on the soft earth just thirty-six feet from his machine.”  Spectators rushed to help. He was still alive. Although his eyes were glassy, his lips were moving as if he was trying to speak. Seeing no bruises or other obvious injuries, his would-be rescuers thought he might have just been stunned, so they picked him up, loaded him onto a train standing by and rushed him to the city. “Several prominent physicians” were summoned to meet the train at the depot.   Moisant was declared dead on arrival. He hadn’t been merely stunned. His neck had been broken.  “Moisant was a man of indomitable character,” fellow flyer Roland Barros said at the time. “He seemed to be absolutely without fear, and we other aviators have often marveled at his daring. The world has lost a remarkable man.”  A funeral was held at McMahon & Sons funeral home on Dryades Street, and Moisant was buried temporarily in Metairie before being moved to a grave in California.   A movement was soon started to erect a monument on the site of the stockyards in Moisant’s memory.   It wasn’t until 1941 that New Orleans Mayor Robert Maestri announced the city’s then-new airport, built just 10 miles from the Harahan stockyards where Moisant crashed would be named in his honor: Moisant Airport.  Decades later, the name would be changed to Louis Armstrong International Airport, but the land is still dubbed Moisant Field and the airport’s location code is still MSY, for Moisant Stock Yards. As for Mademoiselle Fifi, she either wasn’t on board for that final flight or used up one of her nine lives by surviving the crash. At any rate, Moisant’s sisters took custody of the orphaned feline, who, presumably, lived a long life – on the ground. •


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Southern woman has infamous mystique. Books, ballads, TV shows and films have long tapped into the world’s fascination with a woman who is at once feminine, but not afraid to speak her mind; gracious, but in no way a pushover; and with the strength and force of hurricane winds whipping across the Gulf Coast. The southern woman has earned her fitting nickname: Steel Magnolia.

New Orleans Magazine would like to thank Saks Fifth Avenue for providing the beautiful clothing and styling, The Cannery and Toulouse Gourmet for providing the venue and catering, H20 Salon & Spa for providing the hair styling, and both Hollywood Makeup Bootcamp and Zoe Skelton Beauty for providing makeup artistry for the 2019 Steel Magnolias photoshoot.


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Mia Freiberger-Devillier Partner/Director of Operations La Petite Grocery & Justine Finding success in the restaurant industry all comes down to dedication and motivation, so it’s fitting that Mia FreibergerDevillier has spent 25 years learning, observing and growing with the industry. After obtaining a master’s in accounting from UNO, Mia decided to marry her passions for business management and hospitality. She and her husband, Chef Justin Devillier, took majority ownership of La Petite Grocery in 2010, and this year they opened Justine, a French brasserie. “This industry is demanding, and you have to be able to embrace it,” Mia says. “It’s about creating and maintaining a work-life balance, and finding passion both personally and professionally.” The job has also allowed Mia to grow philanthropically, and she maintains involvement in initiatives like Hogs for the Cause, Emeril Lagasse Foundation, James Beard Foundation and many more. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Dolce & Gabbana


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

April Renée A. Renée Boutique April Renée’s art is her fashion — she believes that how someone dresses can reveal their inner spirit. “You can recreate yourself through clothing, and you can be the canvas,” she says. A. Renée Boutique’s unique clothing comes from small U.S. designers and can’t be found in most boutiques, with vivid colors and beautiful fabrics that are sized exclusively for women. A. Renée says her fashion is for women who dress to kill. “You can hide behind fashion or stand out in it.” April is also a dedicated member of Saint Augustine Catholic Church in Treme and is the Campaign Manager for its Restoration Campaign, which aims to preserve the 178-year-old, historically significant building. “Find a cause that speaks to your heart and touches the lives of many,” she says. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Alice + Olivia


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Lauren D. Smith, J.D. Realtor, Top Producer, Reve Realtors After practicing law for several years, Lauren Smith traded her legal career to follow her passion: New Orleans real estate. She attributes her success to the enjoyment she finds in the daily combination of negotiating, architecture, design and life in New Orleans. “My team and I appreciate the gravity and significance of buying, selling and investing and work to provide the highest level of service and professionalism. We want to ensure our clients have the best results, financially and personally.� A platinum level top producer, Lauren enjoys raising her two young sons, Field (4) and Hunter (1) with her husband, Jerry. Together they enjoy fundraising as part of Team Swineaux at Hogs for the Cause, supporting families fighting pediatric brain cancer. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Etro


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Lauren Welch Member/Owner McCranie, Sistrunk, Anzelmo, Hardy, McDaniel & Welch LLC Lauren Welch is licensed in Louisiana and Texas and primarily litigates matters related to life, health and disability insurance, and claims related to employee benefit plans. Through her professional practice, she seeks to defend the rights of insurance providers who handle disability claims, counselling each client with passion, confidence and expertise in order to achieve the greatest possible result. As the mother of a disabled son, Lauren is also personally interested in the legal needs and rights of disabled individuals, having previously served on the Louisiana Bar Association’s Legal Services for Persons with Disabilities Committee. In 2017, Lauren was honored as one of the Top 15 Women in Business in Louisiana by the National Women’s Council, an initiative of the National Diversity Council. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: St. John


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Kerri Callais St. Bernard Council at Large, Managing Partner at Callais Ice Service For Kerri Callais, success doesn’t just mean personal growth — she also considers it her duty to give back to the people and communities that helped her along the way. Part of that mission includes her work at the family business, Callais Ice Service, where she’s served as a managing partner for 16 years. In addition, her role as St. Bernard’s Council at Large allows her to promote coastal restoration and tourism opportunities in the area. In between working and raising her twin daughters, Kerri also volunteers with organizations like Leadership St. Bernard, the Save Louisiana Coalition and the St. Bernard Chamber of Commerce. “I’m so proud of what we’ve been able to accomplish in St. Bernard, and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for the next four years and beyond!” she says. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Max Mara


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Meredith Garrett Loan Officer, NOLA Lending Group For the past nine years, Meredith Garrett has taken pride in transforming the homebuying experience. As a loan officer with NOLA Lending Group, she helps each buyer understand the many programs and options available to them, using her positive attitude and expertise to relieve the stress that is often associated with the buying process. From start to finish, her goal is to achieve great results on a timeline that works best for the customer. “Anyone can handle your loan, but I want to ensure that everyone involved feels comfortable and informed, knowing that their loan officer has their best interest at heart,� Meredith says. A mother of three young daughters, Meredith is also an active member of her church and lends her time and support to organizations like St. Jude’s and the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Oscar de la Renta


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section


new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue (from left to right): Theia; Solace London; Galvan London; Herve Leger; Talbot Runhof; Theia.


The Menu

jeffery johnston photo

TABLE TALK . RESTAURANT INSIDER . FOOD . LAST CALL . DINING LISTINGS

Sliced Angus Brisket, Sliced Smoke Turkey, Mac and Cheese Topped with Bacon and Creole Slaw at Central City bbq


table talk

meet the chef

Three Meat Sampler with Burnt Ends, cowboy candy, ribs, spoon bread and Brussels sprouts

Mastering the Fundamentals

James Cruse smoked his first rack of ribs on Labor Day weekend in 1997 and has never looked back. A native of Arabi, during his 13 years on the pro circuit he was won accolades including third in the world in Memphis this past May, along with multiple Grand Champion wins at Hogs for the Cause. Along the way he became friends with the owners of Central City BBQ, who convinced him to join the team. “I was a competition guy, so a restaurant was a transition,” Cruse said. “But my plan was always to make this the best BBQ place in the city, hands-down.”

Central City BBQ Racks It Up by Jay Forman

Barbeque is a curious thing. It carries with it

not just a method of cooking but also some serious cultural trappings. You don’t often see a restaurant spill out of its dining room to encompass patios, music stages, boat docks and play areas for the

7 4 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

kids, but you will see this with barbeque joints, which often sprawl like smoky kudzu across rural landscapes. Over the past few years Central City BBQ has moved in this direction, becoming an establishment that is as much about the smoked

jeffery johnston photo


meats as it is a ground-zero for addictive caramelized cubes of food-related events and festivals. pork belly. Consider splurging It is well situated for such a role, with a “Pit House Plate” with with its vast gravel yard offering both the burnt ends and cowboy patio seating and stages backed candy upsells – pricy, but worth it. Standout sides include the sweet by a ring of shipping containers. While still a long way from the corn spoonbread as well as brisket carnivalesque bric-a-brac riot of chili. “Pour a little of that over the a place like The Shed, Central spoonbread and you have a meal City BBQ has become more than right there,” Cruse said. Crispy just a restaurant. It has become Brussels sprouts come glazed with a sweet Thai chili sauce and the a destination. To pull this off successfully, Mac and Cheese is, appropriately it must balance the enough, spiked with bacon. careful juggling act of being high volume Over the past year Central City BBQ, while maintaining a Central City BBQ has 1201 South Rampart St., Central City. L, devotion to artistry emerged as a festival D Daily; 558-4276; that doesn’t comproforce, hosting a Centralcitybbq.com. mise quality. To help broadening array a c c o m p l i s h t h i s, of food, music, award-winning pitmaster James sport and cultural events such Cruse was brought on board last as the Marley Gras Jerk Chicken December. Cruse had to pivot Fest. Upcoming events include from his years on the pro-BBQ Wing Wars in November. Along circuit to helping run a stand- with the huge yard, Central City alone restaurant. He credits his offers the Pit Room, a cavernous team in successfully adjusting event space which overlooks the to the changes he made. For impressive smoking operation. Cruse, who is concerned with Weddings, corporate events and fundamentals rather than flash, holiday parties are all hosted here. excellent barbeque starts with Those interested in learning the the meat. The brisket is USDA pitmaster’s delicious arts can also Prime and the Texas-style rub is sign up for monthly classes taught basic – salt, pepper, garlic and a by Cruse. smattering of other spices. “We smoke the brisket whole and slice it to order,” he explained. The “Burnt Ends” – intense nuggets with a smoky, salty char and an ephemerally juicy interior – are the most delicious expression of this tricky cut. For ribs he only uses St. Louis style, a trimmed-down spare rib he sources from an exclusive purveyor, helping him guarantee consistency. “We rub them down, smoke them, wrap them in foil then finish them sliced to order,” Smoking Hot Blue Oak BBQ on Carrollton is he said. His ribs feature a soft bite another option for those who love it with a lot of flavor. “They don’t low and slow. Fundamentals aside, need sauce,” he added. However, Blue Oak sets itself apart with some this is a New Orleans barbeque compelling sandwich choices like restaurant, and people here like the “Pit Viper” (pulled pork with slaw their sauce. So Central City obliges and firey slices of raw jalapeno) and with an array of different styles. a smoked chicken salad sandwich More esoteric menu offerings include the “Cowboy Candy,” garnished with fried green tomato.

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myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 7 5


restaurant insider

News From the Kitchen Quitutes, Aloha Grill & Sushi, Rendez-Vous Creole by Robert Peyton

Picanha Sandwich Prime top sirloin, Mozzarella Cheese with house made mayonnaise on french bread; garlic and oil gulf shrimp; Chicken wings with garlic butter, green onions topped with Parmesan cheese; Acia berry smoothie

Quitutes

Aloha Grill & Sushi

Rendez-Vous Créole

Brazil is a huge country and accordingly has a diverse cuisine. Until recently, I was unfamiliar with “quitutes,” which translates to “canapés” in Portuguese. Quitutes is also the name of a restaurant that opened in August in Arabi with a menu focused on the small bites as well as Brazilian staples like the yucca-flour bread pão de queijo and of course steak. Quitutes, 6617 Judge Perez Dr., 766-8694, Tuesday through Sunday, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Quitutescuisine.com. (under construction)

Aloha Grill & Sushi got its start in the Auction House Market food court, and owners Dave Kirtland and Tracey Davenport have now opened a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner on Calhoun street. The fare is eclectic, with Hawaiian style sushi and smoked pork, poke bowls, sandwiches and a full bar. Aloha Grill & Sushi, 3151 Calhoun St.; 309-2699; 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and 8 to 10 on Saturday and Sunday; Alohaleinola.com.

One would think that New Orleans would have more places serving Haitian cuisine, but until recently there were more Ethiopian restaurants in town. The numbers are equal now that Rendez-Vous Créole has opened in Algiers. The menu is short, with a half-dozen entrées and about as many sides, with items such as fried or stewed whole fish, beef or goat first braised, then fried and simmered conch. Rendez-Vous Créole, 3042 General Collins Ave., Algiers; 281-4834; daily from 11:45 to 9.

7 6 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

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food

by photographed by eugenia uhl 7styled 8 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com


Beyond the Taco

RECIPE

Dishes With A Latin Flavor

Creole-Latin Barbecued Shrimp

by Dale Curry

Ingredients 2 ½ pounds large shrimp, heads-on

Beloved Creole dishes fuel lifetimes in New

Orleans with diehards sticking to red beans on Monday and gumbo on Friday. Nevertheless, population shifts find adventurous diners and cooks loving the influences of foreign cuisines. Not the least of these are Mexican/Latin flavors finding their way into kitchens with dishes beyond tacos. Behind this is a growing Central American population boosting numbers of ethnic restaurants and the markets to match. I’m loving it because I recall times when cilantro and fresh chiles were nowhere to be found. Now, they are everywhere, and the increasing number of Latin grocery stores provide much more. What’s new is that restaurants are matching local ingredients with Latin recipes. Red snapper and shrimp are easy to adapt, and sausages and spices merge well. The theory at Nolé Cuisine de las Americas, a recently opened Mexican/Latin restaurant on St. Charles Avenue, is that New Orleans and Latin American countries celebrate similar cultures of food, festivals and music. “The biggest thing is incorporating Latin American with Creole flavors,” concept chef Chris Lusk said of trends occurring at Nolé. As concept chef, Lusk creates the restaurant’s recipes including such menu temptations as corn-fried oyster tacos, cochon du lait paella, and chorizo and andouille queso. Jicama and Mexican crema accompany crispy catfish, and corn on the cob is rolled in blue crab mornay. At least a dozen other Cuban, Venezuelan and other Latin American restaurants have opened in the New Orleans area in the last few years, each with their own twist on the often-spicy cuisines. Barbecued shrimp is one of my favorite local dishes although it has nothing to do with outdoor grills. Like most locals, I cook mine in the oven with butter, loads of garlic, liquid hickory smoke and other seasonings. Next to the shrimp, the most important ingredient, in my opinion, is the fat in the shrimp heads. Lusk’s take on this New Orleans favorite intrigued me. He peels the shrimp but makes the stock from the shrimp heads. He uses a Mexican beer along with cilantro and chile peppers for a Latin twist. The following recipe is an adaptation using easily found ingredients.

1 tablespoon canola oil 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon Mexican oregano leaves, chopped 3 tablespoons chipotle salsa, or to taste* 1 ½ cups shrimp stock 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 cup Modelo Especial beer ½ cup heavy cream, warm 1/3 cup cilantro leaves, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste ¾ tablespoon Creole seasoning 4 tablespoons butter Grits, cooked, French bread or soft flour tortillas for serving

Directions

Many Trails Latin America’s cuisine has similar influences to south Louisiana’s - native American, French, Spanish and Caribbean. Portuguese also played a major role. Tropical fruits and fish are a mainstay of Latin diets, and corn tortillas and beans are traced back to the early Mayans and Aztecs.

1. Peel and devein shrimp. Set shrimp aside. In a medium pot, cover peelings and heads with water, and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and save stock. Discard peelings and heads. 2. Heat oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Sauté garlic for a minute, and add oregano, chipotle salsa, shrimp stock, lime juice and beer. Cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes. 3. Stir in heavy cream and simmer, whisking frequently, for simmer for 2 minutes. Add cilantro and season with salt and pepper. 4. Season shrimp with Creole seasoning and sauté in butter in a medium skillet, turning, until they turn pink, about 1 minute. Add to the sauce and simmer for 2 minutes. Serve hot in bowls with grits or with French bread or soft flour tortillas, rolled up for dipping. Serves 4 to 6.

*I used part of a 7-ounce can of San Marcos chipotle salsa with much left over for another use. Other variations of hot pepper sauces could be used, such as chipotles in adobo sauce, which is also very hot.

myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 7 9


last call

Mezcal Cocktail A touch of agave for the festival season by Tim McNally

October makes the perfect bookend on the without-end

New Orleans festival calendar. While March gets the big celebration ball rolling in the spring, October, ending with Halloween, punts us into the end-of-the-year’s holiday season with plenty of forward momentum. The accompaniment should be an internationally diverse liquid balance of New World, south of the border, European style, all at a

restaurant and bar that pledges allegiance to its South Louisiana heritage. Mezcal is an agave based liquor common to Mexico and akin to tequila, but nevertheless different with its own personality and even production methods. Meauxbar, on the fringe of the French Quarter across from Armstrong Park, is the sort of place that puts its kitchen artistry up front and its bar creativity very near.

Mezcal cocktail

1 oz. Del Maguey Vida Mezcal 0.5 oz. Svöl Scandanavian Aquavit 0.5 oz. Tattersall Sour Cherry Liqueur 0.5 oz. Jägermeister 0.5 oz. chai syrup 0.75 oz. lemon juice 2 dashes Jerry Thomas Bitter Truth bitters  Shake all ingredients together with ice. Strain into a rocks glass over ice. Add orange zest garnish. Meauxbar, 942 N. Rampart Street, 569-9979, Meauxbar.com.

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myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 8 1


dining listings H= New Orleans Magazine award winner

Bywater

H Pizza Delicious pizza 617 Piety St., 6768482, PizzaDelicious.com. Authentic New York-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant, that also offers excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes. Outdoor seating a plus. $ Carrollton Breads on Oak Bakery/Breakfast 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, BreadsOnOak.com. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak St. serves breads, breakfast, sandwiches, 100 percent vegan. $ City Park Café NOMA AMERICAN 1 Collins Diboll Cir., NO Museum of Art, 482-1264, CafeNoma. com. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $ CBD/Warehouse District Balise Louisianian Fare 640 Carondelet St., 459-4449, BaliseNola.com. Chef Justin Devillier turns back the clock at this turn-of-the-century inspired bistro in the CBD. Carefully crafted fare fits well alongside the excellent cocktail and beer list. $$$

H BH Steak Steakhouse Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$

H Borgne Seafood 601 Loyola Ave., 613-3860, BorgneRestaurant.com. Coastal Louisiana with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this highvolume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$

H Cochon Louisianian Fare 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CochonRestaurant.com. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski feature Cajun and Southern cuisine. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine Reservations recommended. $$

H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, DesiVegaSteaks.com. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this menu, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the appeal. $$$ Drago’s Louisianian Fare Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, DragosRestaurant.com. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

H Domenica Italian The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, DomenicaRestaurant.com. Authentic, regional Italian cuisine. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées features locally raised products. $$$$ Emeril’s Louisianian Fare 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, EmerilsRestaurants.com. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims 8 2 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

$ = Average entrée price

$ = $5-10 $$ = $11-15 $$$ = $16-20 $$$$ = $21-25 $$$$$ = $25 & up

from all over the world. $$$$$

H Herbsaint Louisianian Fare 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, Herbsaint.com. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$

H La Boca Steakhouse 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 525-8205, LaBocaSteaks.com. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$

H Lüke World 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, LukeNewOrleans.com. Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, housemade pâtés and plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$

324-3658, Sac-A-LaitRestaurant.com. Cody and Sam Carroll’s shrine to Gulf Coast and Louisiana culinary heritage melds seafood, game, artisan produce, and craft libations in an ambitious menu that celebrates local and southern cuisine. $$$$ The Grill Room AMERICAN Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-6000, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. Modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$ Tommy’s Cuisine Italian 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, TommysNewOrleans.com. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$

Mother’s Louisianian Fare 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, MothersRestaurant.net.Locals and tourists alike endure long lines to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$

Central City Café Reconcile Louisiana fare 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, CafeReconcile. org. Good food for a great cause, this nonprofit on the burgeoning OCH corridor helps train at-risk youth for careers in the food service industry. $$

Mulate’s Louisianian Fare 201 Julia St., 5221492, Mulates.com. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this world-famous Cajun destination. $$

H Café Degas French 3127 Esplanade Ave.,

Palace Café World 605 Canal St., 5231661, PalaceCafe.com. Cassic New Orleans restaurant, the Dickie Brennan and Palace Cafe team evolve traditional Creol dishes. Enjoy specialty cocktails and small plates at the Black Duck Bar. $$$

H 1000 Figs World 3141 Ponce De Leon St.,

H Pêche Seafood 800 Magazine St., 5221744, PecheRestaurant.com. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by Chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-burning oven, and an excellent raw bar. $$$

HRed Gravy Bakery/Breakfast 4125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravy.com. Farm-to-table brunch restaurant offers a creative array of items such as Cannoli Pancakes and Skillet Cakes, as well as delectable sandwiches and more. Homemade pastas and authentic Tuscan specialties round out the menu. $$ H Restaurant August AMERICAN 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, RestaurantAugust.com. James Beard Awardwinning menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Rock-N-Sake Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake. com. Fresh sushi and contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, RuthsChris.com. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution. There are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sac-A-Lait Seafood 1051 Annunciation St.,

Faubourg St. John 945-5635, CafeDegas.com. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$ 301-0848, 1000Figs.com. Vegetarian-friendly offshoot of the Fat Falafel Food Truck offers a healthy farm-to-table alternative to cookiecutter Middle Eastern places. $$ French Quarter Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 724 Iberville St., 522-5973, AcmeOyster.com. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

H Arnaud’s Louisianian Fare 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, ArnaudsRestaurant.com. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$ Arnaud’s Remoulade Italian 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, Remoulade.com. Home of the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$ Antoine’s Louisianian Fare 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is à la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$ Antoine’s Annex Specialty Foods 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Antoines.com/Antoines-Annex. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available. BB King’s Blues Club Barbecue 1104 Decatur St., 934-5464, BBKings.com/new-orleans. New Orleans outpost of music club named for the famed blues musician with a menu loaded with BBQ and southern specialties. Live music and

late hours are a big part of the fun. $$$ Bayou Burger Burgers 503 Bourbon St., 5294256, SportsBarNewOrleans.com. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Gator Bites. $$ Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse.com. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes, bourbon is offered as well. $$$ Bayona World 430 Dauphine St., 525-4455, Bayona.com. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$ Brennan’s Louisianian Fare 417 Royal St., 525-9711, Brennansneworleans.com. Chef Slade Rushing’s innovative Cerole menu borrows influences from French and Spanish ancestry with modern updates and distinct seasonal offerings. $$$$ Broussard’s French 819 Conti St., 581-3866, Broussards.com. Creole-French institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

H Cane & Table Gastropub 1113 Decatur St., 581-1112, CaneAndTableNola.com. Open late, this chef-driven rustic colonial cuisine with rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$ Chartres House Italian 601 Chartres St., 586-8383, ChartresHouse.com. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ Court of Two Sisters Louisianian Fare 613 Royal St., 522-7261, CourtOfTwoSisters.com. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$ Criollo Louisianian Fare Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, CriolloNola.com. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various Louisiana cultures, with a contemporary twist. $$$ Crazy Lobster Seafood 500 Port of New Orleans Place, Suite 83, 569-3380, TheCrazyLobster.com. Boiled seafood and festive atmosphere come together at this seafood-centric destination overlooking the Mississippi River. Outdoor seating a plus. $$$ Creole Cookery Seafood 508 Toulouse St., Suite C110, 524-9632, NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com. Crowdpleasing destination in the French Quarter offers an expansive menu of Creole favorites and specialty cocktails served with New Orleans flair. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 841 Iberville St., 581-1316, Deanies.com. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House


Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse.com. Classic Creole dishes, such as redfish on the halfshell, and an Oyster Bar. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$ Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. Validated Parking next door. $$$$

H Doris Metropolitan Steakhouse 620 Chartres St., 267-3500, DorisMetropolitan.com. Innovative steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$ El Gato Negro World 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, ElGatoNegroNola.com. Central Mexican cuisine along with handmuddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$ Galatoire’s Louisianian Fare 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, Galatoires.com. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this worldfamous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak Steakhouse 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, Galatoires33BarAndSteak.com. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails and classic steakhouse fare and inspired dishes.

Reservations accepted. $$$

Bourbon Street. $$$

H GW Fins Seafood 808 Bienville St.,

Muriel’s Jackson Square Italian 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, Muriels.com. Enjoy local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumoredto-be-haunted establishment. $$$$

581-FINS (3467), GWFins.com. Owners Gary Wollerman and twice chef of the year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$ House of Blues Louisianian Fare 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, HouseOfBlues.com/ NewOrleans. Good menu complements music in the main room. World-famous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$ Irene’s Cuisine Italian 539 St. Philip St., 529-8881. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$ K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen Louisianian Fare 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul.com/ KPaul. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to the nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H Kingfish Seafood 337 Charters St., 5985005, KingfishNewOrleans.com. Regionally inspired seafood dishes with carefully sourced ingredients and southern influence is the focus at this chef-driven French Quarter establishment. $$$ Le Bayou Seafood 208 Bourbon St., 5254755, LeBayouRestaurant.com. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just a few of the choices at this seafood-centric destination on

Napoleon House Italian 500 Chartres St., 524-9752, NapoleonHouse.com. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas. A Sazerac or Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $ NOLA Louisianian Fare 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, EmerilsRestaurants.com/NolaRestaurant. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plank-roasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Oceana Grill Seafood 739 Conti St., 5256002, OceanaGrill.com. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro Gastropub 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, OrleansGrapevine.com. Wine is the muse at this bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

H Patrick’s Bar Vin Gastropub 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, PatricksBarVin.com. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates are served as well. $$ Pier 424 Seafood 424 Bourbon St., 309-1574, Pier424SeafoodMarket.com. Seafood-centric

restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like “Cajun-Boiled” Lobster. $$$ Port of Call Burgers 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, PortOfCallNola.com. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

H Restaurant R’evolution Italian 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, RevolutionNola. com. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Jana Billiot and executive sous chef Gabriel Beard are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$ Red Fish Grill SEAFOOD 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, RedFishGrill.com. This vibrant, seafood-centric polished-casual landmark delivers innivative twists on casual New Orleans seasfood, including local favorites BBQ oysters and double chocolate bread pudding. $$$ Rib Room AMERICAN Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. Old World elegance, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on Sundays a jazz brunch. $$$ Richard Fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant Louisianian Fare 301 Dauphine St., 5860972, RichardFiskes.com. Just a few steps off of Bourbon Street is this relaxing bar featuring an innovative menu with dishes like Crawfish, Jalapeno-and-Bacon Mac and Cheese garnished

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with fried oysters. Live music a plus. $$$ Royal House Louisianian Fare 441 Royal St., 528-2601, RoyalHouseRestaurant.com. Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowdpleasing appeal. $$$ SoBou Louisianian Fare 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, SoBouNola.com. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on an accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

H Tableau Louisianian Fare 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, TableauFrenchQuarter.com. Gulf seafood such as Redfish Bienville and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Hussard are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le Petite Théâtre. $$$

H The Bistreaux Louisianian Fare New Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000, MaisonDupuy.com/dining.html. Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$ The Bombay Club Louisianian Fare Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 577-2237, TheBombayClub.com. Popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ The Pelican Club AMERICAN 312 Exchange

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Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub.com. Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$

H Tujague’s Louisianian Fare 823 Decatur St., 525-8676, TujaguesRestaurant.com. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$ Garden District Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s AMERICAN 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$ Commander’s Palace Louisianian Fare 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, CommandersPalace.com. The grande dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Award-winner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$ District Donuts Sliders Brew AMERICAN 2209 Magazine Street, 570-6945, DonutsAndSliders. com. Creative sliders (hello, pork belly) and super-creative donuts (think root beer float) are the hallmarks of this next-generation café. $ Hoshun Restaurant Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, HoshunRestaurant.com. A wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Private dining

rooms available. $$

H Mr. John’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, MrJohnsSteakhouse.com. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$ Lakeview H Cava Louisianian Fare 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big part of the experience. $$$

H Mondo World 900 Harrison Ave., 2242633, MondoNewOrleans.com. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. This place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$ Metairie H Andrea’s Restaurant Italian 3100 19th St., 834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.com. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$ Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, AcmeOyster.com. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Austin’s Louisianian Fare 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo.com. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$ Boulevard American Bistro AMERICAN 4241 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-2301. Classic American cuisine including steaks, chops and

more is augmented by regional favorites like Boulevard Oysters at this Metairie bistro. $$$ café B AMERICAN 2700 Metairie Road, 9344700, cafeB.com. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this family-friendly neighborhood spot. $$$ Caffe! Caffe! AMERICAN 3547 N. Hullen St., 267-9190. & 4301 Clearview Parkway, 885-4845. CaffeCaffe.com Healthy, refreshing meal options, and gourmet coffee and espresso drinks create a tasteful retreat for Metairie diners at a reasonable price. $ Crabby Jack’s Louisianian Fare 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, CrabbyJacksNola.com. Outpost of Jacques-Imo’s. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 831-4141, Deanies.com. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$ Don’s Seafood seafood 4801 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-1550, DonsSeafoodOnline.com. Metairie outpost of historic local seafood chain that dates from 1934. Features an array of Cajun and seafood classics like their original ‘Jacked Up’ Oysters and seafood platters. Don’t miss their happy hour specials. $$$ Drago’s Louisianian Fare 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant.com. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as


well. $$$$ Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant Seafood 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, AustinsNo.com. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

bakery offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $

H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar Louisianian Fare 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, KatiesInMidCity.com. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris. com. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution, and great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$

H Liuzza’s Italian 3636 Bienville St., 482-

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

St., 482-9179, MandinasRestaurant.com. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

Mid-City H Crescent City Steaks Steakhouse 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, CrescentCitySteaks.com. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$ Five Happiness Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, FiveHappiness.com. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house-baked duck. $$ Gracious Bakery + Café Bakery/Breakfast 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, GraciousBakery.com.Boutique

9120, Liuzzas.com. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. $$

H Mandina’s Louisianian Fare 3800 Canal

H Mona’s Café World 3901 Banks St., 482-7743. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros. The lentil soup and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H MoPho Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoNola.com. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-and-match pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$ Parkway Bakery and Tavern AMERICAN 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys. com. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a

classic at a great price. $

soups, salads and deli-style sandwiches. $

Ralph’s On The Park louisianaian fare 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, RalphsOnThePark. com. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$

Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House Seafood MrEdsRestaurants.com/oyster-bar.A seafood lover’s paradise offers an array of favorites like shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffée, blackened redfish and more. A raw bar featuring gulf oysters both charbroiled and raw. $$$

H Toups’ Meatery Louisianian Fare 845

Reginelli’s Pizzeria pizza Reginellis.com. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$

N. Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery. com. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$ Multiple Locations Café du Monde Bakery/Breakfast CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ CC’s Coffee House Bakery/Breakfast CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $ Copeland’s Louisianian Fare CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$ Little Tokyo Asian Fusion/Pan Asian LittleTokyoNola.com. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$ Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN MartinWineCellar.com. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, burgers,

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/Breakfast TheRubySlipperCafe.net. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$ Theo’s Pizza TheosPizza.com. The crackercrisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with local ingredients at cheap prices. $$ Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill AMERICAN ZeaRestaurants.com. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular spot serves a variety of grilled items, appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Catering services available. $$$ Riverbend

H Boucherie Louisianian Fare 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-5514, Boucherie-Nola. com. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$ Brigtsen’s Louisianian Fare 723 Dante St.,

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861-7610, Brigtsens.com. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

HCarrollton Market AMERICAN 8132 Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket. com. Modern Southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$ Upper 9th Ward St. Roch Market Louisianian Fare 2381 St. Claude Ave., 615-6541, StRochMarket. com. Historic St. Claude Marketplace with open dining space houses a broad collection of independent eateries including craft cocktails and more. $$ Uptown Audubon Clubhouse AMERICAN 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute.org. B, A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Bouligny Tavern Gastropub 3641 Magazine St., 891-1810, BoulignyTavern.com. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$ Camellia Grill AMERICAN 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 309-2679. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $ Casamento’s Louisianian Fare 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, CasamentosRestaurant.com. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and

for all major holidays. $$ Clancy’s Louisianian Fare 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, ClancysNewOrleans.com. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$

H Coquette French 2800 Magazine St., 265-0421, CoquetteNola.com. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from the chefs. $$$ Dick and Jenny’s Louisianian Fare 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys. com. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$

H Gautreau’s Louisianian Fare 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant. com. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along

H La Crêpe Nanou French 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, LaCrepeNanou.com. Classic French bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes, are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ La Petite Grocery French 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, LaPetiteGrocery.com. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily French-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ Lilette French 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636, LiletteRestaurant.com. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

H Magasin Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4201 Magazine St., 896-7611, MagasinCafe.com.

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Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budget-friendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $

elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$

Pascal’s Manale Italian 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, PascalsManale.com. A neighborhood favorite since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$

H Upperline AMERICAN 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Upperline.com. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger presents this nationally heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$

H Patois World 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, PatoisNola.com. French food, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron Burgau. Reservations recommended. $$$ Pizza Domenica pizza 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, PizzaDomenica.com. A pizza centric spinoff of the popular Restaurant Domenica brings Neapolitan-style pies to Uptown. Excellent salads and charcuterie boards are offered as well. $$

H Shaya World 4213 Magazine St., 8914213, ShayaRestaurant.com. James Beard Award-winning menu pays homage to Israel at this contemporary Israeli hotspot. $$$

H The Company Burger Burgers 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger.com. Custom-baked butter-brushed buns and freshground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $ The Delachaise Gastropub 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, TheDelaichaise.com. Cuisine

H Wayfare AMERICAN 4510 Freret St., 3090069, WayfareNola.com. Creative sandwiches and southern-inspired small plates. $$ Ye Olde College Inn AMERICAN 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933. com. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$ Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, VicentsItalianCuisine. com. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Warehouse District Lucy’s World 710 Tchoupitoulas St., 5238995, LucysRetiredSurfers.com. Island-themed oasis with a menu that cherry-picks tempting dishes from across the globe’s tropical latitudes. Popular for lunch, and the after-work crowds stay into the wee hours. $

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Ashley McLellan at Ashley@MyNewOrleans.com


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Louisiana Children’s Museum 15 Henry Thomas Drive New Orleans, LA 70124 504-523-1357 www.lcm.org

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ince 1986, the Louisiana Children’s Museum has helped generations of children recognize and harness their potential. At LCM, interactive play and shared exploration come together to both entertain and educate, all in an environment that celebrates innovation, self-expression and the power of imagination. At its new home in City Park, LCM is continuing its mission to provide a safe and engaging space in which children are encouraged to connect with each other and their communities. Sprawling over 8.5 acres of beautiful green space, the new LCM is designed to harness natural resources while supporting the

surrounding ecosystem. Not only does the museum incorporate the park’s natural landscape and environment, but it has also taken steps to make the grounds even more sustainable than before. Just as the museum’s five galleries create memorable experiences with a focus on child development, LCM further reimagines its role in the community with new additions like a literacy center, a parent-teacher resource center and Acorn, A Dickie Brennan & Co. Café. Generations of families, caregivers and educators have enjoyed LCM’s celebration of childhood experiences, and with its incredible new expansion, LCM invites you to join the fun.

Hours: Tuesday – Saturday, 9:30 a.m. — 4:30 p.m.; Sunday 11:30 a.m. — 4:30 p.m. Admission to the LCM is $14 per person (adults and children 12 months+). Family memberships are also available.


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Play With Me Specially designed for children under the age of four, the Play With Me gallery features a Sensory Lagoon where children can roll on a bed of lily pads, hear splashes and feel the movement of rippling water. A Cypress Tree Book Nook, Peek-a-Boo Puppet Theater, Early Literacy Sensory Wall and other engaging features help children fall in love with the world around them even more.

Dig Into Nature Overlooking the lagoon and offering both tactile and textural experiences, Dig Into Nature explores the Gulf Coast’s resources, ecosystems, plants and animals. Learn to care for animals at the Nature Caring Station, discover how water shapes our world at the Wetlands Sedimentation Table, or explore the magic of bayou life with books, puppets and soundscapes at the Storytelling Nest.


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Follow That Food In this gallery, children are invited on a playful journey focused on a key aspect of Louisiana culture: food. LCM’s classic Food + You Market exhibit is bigger and better than ever, with a whole grocery store where little shoppers can fill their carts and check out at working registers. A Bean Counter introduces visitors to simple machines that move coffee beans up, down, over and around, and the Ports + Cargo exhibit follows the journey food takes from fields and coastal waters, through ports, and into markets, kitchens and cafés. The Growing + Gathering station demonstrates the profound pleasure of gathering your own food, teaching kids how to harvest garden produce and crawfish from the pond — and after that, they can prepare their favorite recipes in the Creole Kitchen.


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Make Your Mark Featuring one of LCM’s most popular attractions, the Bubble Studio, the Make Your Mark gallery celebrates New Orleans art in all its forms—visual, architectural, musical and cultural. A Jammin’ House brings out the music in each child and lets them build their own beats by strumming the bass or tooting a horn. Go on a scavenger hunt through a shotgun house painted by Terrance Osborne and explore the places and spaces of New Orleans in a kid-sized replica of Jackson Square. At the Build Big Dreams station, kids use blocks and tools to build structures that are brought to life with multi-colored lights and larger-than-life shadows, and an Urban Design Studio and Light Tables let kids explore their own tremendous talents.


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Move With The River Discover an action-packed, watery world that explores the story of the Mississippi River. A 100-foot long water table details the locks, dams, drainage systems, ports and tributaries of the Mighty Mississippi, our region’s most abundant resource. Make your way into the Port of New Orleans at the Cargo + Destinations exhibit, or learn to go with the flow at the Water Dialogue station. Younger kids can enjoy their own watery play at the Rocks + Springs Tot Spot.

Outdoor Adventures The excitement continues with Outdoor Adventures. Pass through a tunnel and enter a world of natural play, where an Edible Garden engages the senses and Eye Spy Stations provide an up-close view of City Park’s diverse wildlife. The Burrow Hummock and Music Hummock connect little ones to their environment with hands-on experiences, and Uncle Bo’s Sensory Garden and a Floating Classroom open up a world of dynamic engagement and learning.


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Open Houses

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he early bird gets the worm, and parents who begin the search early for their child’s future school will reap the benefits of diligent preparation. This school year may have just begun, but it’s not too early to begin planning for next year and the years after that. Sought-after schools across Greater New Orleans can fill up early as their wait lists grow. Different schools have their own unique qualifications for entry and application processes—planning now for your child’s future will mean less scrambling as the time for decision-making grows near. Fall brings Open Houses to schools all over the metro area, enabling children and their parents a first glance at school cultures, curricula, and arts and athletics programs. Grab your calendars now and begin circling dates for the open houses you’re interested in attending whether for early education, middle school or high school. Even regional colleges and universities welcome visitors to check out their campuses well in advance of application periods.

Early Education Celebrating ten years of growth, Cathedral Montessori School (CMS) welcomes new family and friends to visit its expanded campus and new elementary school building with Montessori equipment and materials designed to inspire self-directed learning. A non-profit, co-educational, certified Montessori school, CMS now serves students ages three through nine and changes the educational landscape of the city by providing the only pre-school through elementary private school Montessori education in New Orleans. CMS provides an education of hope, self-motivation, and discovery to a greater population of students who will go on to contribute and problem-solve creatively in both the local community and across the 9 4 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

world. Growth, transformation, and change are celebrated at CMS, but the curriculum and culture remain constant to support independent academic inquiry and discovery, emotional confidence and empathy, and social justice and collective responsibility. CMS welcomes you to visit the campus, learn about the school’s philosophy, and join its community. Open House takes place October 19, 9 a.m. – 11 a.m. at 9 Fortress Road in New Orleans. For more information, visit cathedralmontessori.org or call 504-252-4871. St. Andrew’s Episcopal School is the oldest Episcopal school in New Orleans with 62 years of experience in educating the mind, body, and spirit of young children. St. Andrew’s enrolls boys and girls 12 months through Grade 8, offering ten+ years of nurturing yet challenging education that focuses on “Cherishing Childhood, Developing Character and Cultivating Leaders.” Faculty strive to teach each child in a manner that builds on his or her individual strengths, interests, and abilities while at the same time fostering teamwork within the greater School community. St. Andrew’s utilizes small classes to promote a challenging learning environment where students interact with teachers and grow spiritually, socially and intellectually. A strong academic program, enhanced by state-of-the-art technology, includes Spanish, music, chapel, fine arts, athletics and information literacy skills. Student publications, dramatics, interscholastic sports, and community service round out St. Andrew’s program. See students and teachers in action at an upcoming Open House (October 22 for PK 3-Grade 4, October 17 for the Middle School, Grades 5-8), or call for a personal tour. Cottage tours are available by appointment only. For more information, visit saesnola.org/admissions.


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Ecole Bilingue de la Nouvelle-Orléans is the only private French school in New Orleans that is accredited by the French Ministry of Education and State of Louisiana. Founded in 1998, the mission of the school is to provide a strong and distinctive education by combining the best of French and American academics. Ecole Bilingue follows the curriculum of the French Education Nationale, considered to be one of the most rigorous educational systems in the world. Ecole Bilingue also offers a rich English language arts and American mathematics and social studies programs designed to balance out and complement the strength of the French curriculum. The school has a campus of three buildings off Magazine Street in Uptown New Orleans with students and teachers from the U.S. and around the world. Classes are offered for children in preschool (18 months) through 8th grade. The student-to-teacher ratio is 7 to 1, allowing each student an opportunity to have personalized attention for a better, differentiated education. For more information on Ecole Bilingue de la Nouvelle-Orléans, please visit ebnola.net. To schedule a tour, call 504-896-4500. The mission of the Stuart Hall School for Boys is to live the words of Catholic educator, Janet Erskine Stuart, RSJC: “Education is formation, not just information.” Faculty and staff are dedicated to working with parents to help each child build a foundation for a life centered on a love for learning, a desire to help others, and a commitment to Gospel values. Now in its 36th year, Stuart Hall School is the only school in the greater New Orleans area to offer a Catholic, independent, all-boy education in a traditional, elementary school configuration (PK37th). Faith, honor, leadership, and scholarship are the foundations

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upon which Stuart Hall builds future community leaders who have an unselfish commitment to the service of others. It truly is a school “Where Good Boys Become Great Men.” Open House for grades PK3-7th grade will take place on Wednesday, October 23, 2019 at 8:30 a.m. For more information on Stuart Hall School for Boys or to tour the campus, please call 504-861-5384 or visit stuarthall.org

K – 12 / Continuous Education Founded in 1867, the Academy of the Sacred Heart is a Catholic, independent, college prep school for girls, ages 1 through Grade 12. The school is committed to values of faith, intellectual advancement, social awareness, the building of community, and personal growth. As part of a network of 150+ Sacred Heart schools, its global exchange program allows students to visit other sister schools in the U. S. and abroad. With global exchange opportunities, thought leadership, service learning activities, a tech-forward campus, design thinking and more, Sacred Heart girls are truly inspired to go out and make change in the world. Open House for Grades 5-12 is Tuesday, October 29 from 5 – 7 p.m. Personal tours for Ages 1 – Grade 4 are available at your convenience. For more info, visit ashrosary.org/openhouse. St. Martin’s Episcopal School is a coeducational, independent college preparatory day school for students from 8 weeks through 12th grade. St. Martin’s curriculum and programs are designed to stimulate growth at the different stages in a child’s life. A rigorous curriculum, balanced with small class sizes, an emphasis on critical thinking, collaboration, creativity and leadership, prepares students


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not only to thrive in excellent colleges, but also to lead meaningful and productive lives with knowledge and skills that enable success long after graduation. St. Martin’s is leading the way with a student-centered innovation and design approach to education that is unlike any other in the region. Learn more about St. Martin’s when you visit the beautiful 18-acre campus for a personal tour or attend the Open House on Saturday, October 19 at 9:30 a.m. For more information or to schedule a personal tour, please call the Admission Office at 504-736-9917. Visit St. Martin’s on the web at stmsaints.com. Founded in 1903, Isidore Newman School is committed to the intellectual, ethical, emotional, and physical development of each student. Newman offers a challenging, comprehensive, and developmentally appropriate curriculum from pre-kindergarten through 12th grade, with Green Trees Early Childhood Village enrolling children ages six weeks to four years. A Newman education encourages critical and independent thinking, leadership in academic and extracurricular activities, and provides superior guidance and support for high achieving students and families. Newman invites guests to explore the school’s offerings by visiting the November 6 Open House at 6 p.m. or the January 15 Open House at 9 a.m. Individual visits are always welcomed. You may arrange a visit online at newmanschool.org/Admissions. Established in 1929, Metairie Park Country Day School is a coeducational, non-denominational, independent school where care and cultivation of each child, from Pre-K through Grade 12, come to life with exciting and innovative approaches to teaching. The use of advanced technology and expansive, rigorous curriculum opens

the world to Country Day students, and faculty teaches them the importance of individual achievement through a depth of inquiry rather than a mere recitation of facts. Visit an Admission Open House or email admissions@mpcds.com for a private tour. Upcoming Open Houses include Pre-K on October 24 at 6:30 p.m.; K/1/2 on January 14 at 8:30 a.m.; Grades 3/4/5 on January 8 at 8:30 a.m.; 6th-12th grades on November 21 at 6:30 p.m. and January 16 at 8:15 a.m. Ursuline Academy is an all-girls Catholic school offering a diverse educational environment from Toddler 1 through 12th grade. Founded in 1727, Ursuline Academy of New Orleans enjoys the distinction of being the first all-girls’ Catholic school in the United States. As girls progress through the academy, a highly interactive approach exposes them to increasingly complex concepts in STEM and the arts that go beyond learning the material. Ursuline girls learn to think creatively, articulate their ideas confidently and compassionately, and solve problems collaboratively. Ursuline’s all-girls’ environment empowers students to challenge themselves, explore outside their comfort zones and expand what they are capable of achieving. High School Open House (Grades 8-12) will be Thursday, October 24 from 5 p.m. – 7 p.m. Elementary Open House (Toddler 1- Grade 7) will be Friday, October 25 from 8:30 a.m. - 10 a.m. Private tours are available by appointment. For more information, visit go.uanola.org or contact the Office of Admissions at 504-866-5292 or admissions@uanola.org. Lusher Charter School, a National Blue Ribbon School in partnership with Tulane University, offers a rigorous, interdisciplinary, college-focused curriculum. Lusher students engage in a

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comprehensive program, enhancing critical, analytical, and creative thinking. Serving 1,865 students in its K-12 program, Lusher maintains two Uptown campuses, the Lower School on Willow Street, and the Middle and High schools on Freret Street. Arts integration starts in the Lower School; many Lusher students continue artistic pursuits in high school Certificate of Artistry programs. Students may choose an area of concentration in Humanities/Communications or Math/Science/Engineering. Beginning with introductory Engineering classes in Lower School, STEM options expand to include advanced Engineering, Biomedical Science and AP courses in all sciences. A Learning Resource Center and state-of-the-art science laboratories support academic excellence. Qualifying juniors and seniors earn college credit at Tulane. Lusher’s numerous extracurricular offerings include 28 sports teams. Call 504-862-5110 (Willow) or 504-304-3961 (Freret) to find out more about Lusher’s outstanding program. The Archdiocese of New Orleans is home to 75 Catholic elementary and secondary schools that educate nearly 35,000 students in eight civil parishes of South Louisiana. This summer, the Archdiocese of New Orleans has been busy planning and preparing for a fruitful school year. Hundreds of teachers participated in professional development workshops and many administrators attended retreats and other professional development opportunities. In October, high school admissions season will begin followed by elementary school registration in February 2020. For more information about Catholic Schools in the New Orleans area and their upcoming open houses, visit nolacatholicschools.org or call the Office of Catholic Schools at 504-866-7916. Find and like them on Facebook at Facebook.com/neworleanscatholicschools.

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Arden Cahill Academy is beginning a new chapter in the school’s 53-year history and welcomes its first high school class with an additional grade added over three successive years. The high school will offer a college preparatory curriculum that will continue to uphold the school’s tradition of academic excellence and exposure to the arts. Course selections will include honors, AP, and dual enrollment classes with embedded ACT prep and college guidance. Arden Cahill Academy combines a strong education with the unique qualities of an outdoor country environment minutes from downtown. Nestled along Bayou Fatma in Gretna, the 12-acre campus currently serves students from 6 weeks in its Infant Center through High School (10th grade). Focused on cultural enrichment and academic excellence, the unique school features horse stables and a petting farm, a STEAM Lab, art and music rooms, and a 300-seattheater. The academy also hosts Camp Corral, a 10-week summer camp. For more information, please call 504-392-0902 or visit ardencahillacademy.com. Attend an Open House on October 10th, 6 – 8 p.m. (6th to 10th grade), or November 12th, 9 a.m. (6 weeks to 10th grade).

Secondary & High School The Mount Carmel Academy experience is filled with opportunities for each student to pursue her passions, uncover new talents, grow spiritually, and discover the person God created her to become. The challenging curriculum enables students to cultivate critical thinking skills, communicate effectively, weigh social and religious values, and prepare for higher education. A 1:1 MacBook program enhances instruction and offers powerful collaborative and in-class possibilities.


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Small class sizes (average of 15) ensure each student receives individualized attention while developing meaningful connections with her teachers and peers. As they navigate through a diverse selection of elective offerings and more than 50 extracurricular activities, students are encouraged to expand interests and become active participants in the community. Service to others is an integral part of a Mount Carmel education. Through hard work and reflection, students develop a deep respect for God, their families, and all of God’s creation. Teamwork and perseverance are found on and off the field on 26 teams in 11 sports. Visit their Open House, Thursday, October 10, 2019, 3 - 7 p.m. Private tours are available by appointment. For more information, visit mcacubs.com, call 504-288-7630, or email admissions@mcacubs.org. The New Orleans Center for Creative Arts—better known as NOCCA—has been training Louisiana’s young artists for nearly 50 years. NOCCA provides full-day, half-day, and after-school training in 11 arts disciplines: Classical Music, Creative Writing, Culinary Arts, Dance, Drama, Jazz, Media Arts, Musical Theatre, Theatre Design, Vocal Music, and Visual Arts. NOCCA’s full-day program includes academic courses and has been rated one of Louisiana’s top-ten schools. NOCCA also offers a summer session. Admission to NOCCA is by arts audition, and students attend tuition-free. NOCCA’s nonprofit partner, The NOCCA Institute, provides financial aid to students who need help paying for art supplies and other costs associated with their training. Applications for the 2020-21 school year and the 2020 summer session are now available at NOCCA.com. Applications can be completed online and are due Wednesday, January 8, 2020.

De La Salle High School in Uptown New Orleans is a private, Catholic co-educational high school for grades 8-12. The school is rooted in the 350-year old Lasallian heritage and the tradition of the Christian Brothers. Utilizing innovative technology and curriculum development and its excellent standards of quality teaching and extracurricular activities, the school has built a tradition helping students achieve their potential both in and out of the classroom. De La Salle exceeds the Louisiana TOPS requirements and offers a wide array of AP and Dual Enrollment classes in which Cavaliers have consistently achieved the top national scores, earning them acceptance in colleges and universities across the U.S. In extracurricular activities, the Pride of the Avenue Marching Band, the String Orchestra, the Cavalette dance team, Chess Club, Junior Classical League, and Cheerleaders have also earned state and national awards. The school sports teams of cross country, football, volleyball, swimming, wrestling, basketball, soccer, tennis, softball, baseball, and track have taken district and state titles. Visit campus on a private tour or spend-a-day. For more information, visit delasallenola.com, or contact Admissions Director Jessica Atwood at jatwood@delasallenola.com or 504-895-5717, ext. 118.

Colleges & Universities The University of Holy Cross encourages students to do good and to do well. A fully accredited Catholic university in New Orleans, the University of Holy Cross (formerly Our Lady of Holy Cross College) offers more than 65 majors and programs to more than 1,300 students. With 154 faculty members and a student-faculty ratio of 13:1, students enjoy

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sponsored a personalized academic experience on an active campus where they are encouraged to explore spiritual values and pursue service opportunities. Some of the university’s most distinctive programs are in Business, Education, Healthcare, Counseling, and Nursing. The university was founded in 1916 as a mission of the Marianites of Holy Cross, whose distinguished history of educating minds and hearts dates to 1848. Located on the West Bank, minutes from downtown New Orleans, UHC offers an affordable, liberal arts education within a small, private university setting. For more information, visit uhcno.edu. Centenary College is a selective, residential, Tier One National Liberal Arts College in Shreveport, Louisiana. Founded in 1825, it is the oldest chartered liberal arts college west of the Mississippi. Centenary’s award-winning faculty and caring staff prepare students to engage global challenges through rigorous coursework, service opportunities, and intercultural experiences at home and abroad. Centenary ranks #1 in the nation among baccalaureate colleges for students studying abroad, beginning with the Centenary in Paris program that sends all first-year students to Paris, France. Ninetythree percent of Centenary students who apply to medical school are accepted, along with 80% of those applying to law school. Centenary students are active in more than 60 clubs and organizations and NCAA Division III athletics on a beautiful campus that students describe as “welcoming and spirited.” For more information on Centenary’s academics, athletics, student life, and the admission and financial aid process, visit centenary.edu or call 800-234-4448.

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Resources for Teachers New Orleans is like nowhere else on earth and one of the best places to build a rewarding career in education. Teach New Orleans is a nonprofit that brings experienced teachers to the city’s public schools. The organization aims to streamline the job-seeking process for educators by enabling candidates to share their resume with all 86 public schools while providing candidates with impartial job-search support and a comprehensive website with a job board, school-specific info, citywide growth data, and more. Since Teach New Orleans launched in 2018, more than 100 experienced educators utilizing the site have been hired by New Orleans public schools. You can be the teacher that creates opportunities and makes a difference doing the work you love. Become a teacher through Teach New Orleans and experience firsthand the rewards of mentoring and teaching the city’s youth. For more info, visit TeachNewOrleans.net. •


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Harvest Wine & Food Festival

Fall Weekends

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veryone has felt the relief a Friday can bring, and even if you’re a weekend worker, there’s something about the energy of the weekend that helps let off the steam of the week. As October helps usher in cooler temperatures, fall weekends can be some of the most rewarding times of the year. Whether you like to spend your weekends checking out the hottest new restaurants or working on the home or yard, there are countless ways to both unwind and be productive Friday through Sunday. Taking informative and entertaining tours, checking in to luxury hotels, traveling to regional festivals, and visiting one-of-a-kind shops and boutiques are just a few of the ways you can take advantage of weekends in fall across Louisiana and beyond. Prefer a little home improvement? There are also plenty of ways to spruce up the indoors or your outdoor living space for other weekends spent relaxing with friends and family.

Travel & Entertainment These are the tours you’ve heard about—of all the companies offering tours in the city, Haunted History is the company chosen by the Travel Channel as “New Orleans #1 Tour Company...a must do!” According to owner Sidney Smith, New Orleans is considered to be the most haunted city in North America. On the daily and nightly excursions with Haunted History, you’ll find out why. Haunted History is the company that literally wrote the book on this subject; New Orleans Ghosts, Voodoo, & Vampires has been a local best seller for over 20 years and details many of the stories featured on Haunted History tours. Haunted History offers eight unique tour options, including a twicenightly bus tour that takes participants outside the French Quarter

to hear ghost stories and visit cemeteries in other parts of the city. For complete information, visit HauntedHistoryTours.com or call 504-861-2727. Fall is the perfect time to head to the beach for Harvest Wine & Food Festival. Produced by Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation, this lavish event provides attendees the opportunity to enjoy some of the world’s finest wine and culinary selections while enjoying the beautiful beach town of WaterColor, Florida during the last weekend in October. Each event during the three-day, premier festival is tailored to fit the different tastes and preferences of wine and food aficionados, kicking off with four intimate Celebrity Winemaker Dinners on Thursday, October 24. Friday’s Al Fresco Reserve Tasting provides patrons a selection of library wines featuring rare vintages not easily accessible to the average consumer, while Saturday’s Grand Tasting main event highlights harvest season at the beach. Large seafood, barbecue, and provisional stations manned by award-winning celebrity chefs from across the southeast and supplemented by some of the South Walton’s most iconic restaurants are combined with tasting stations featuring over 250 wines, beer, and spirits. Visit HarvestWineandFood.com for information on the 2019 line-up and to purchase tickets. At Henderson Park Inn, an adults-only, gulf-front boutique hotel in Destin, Florida, privacy seekers will find the ultimate sanctuary for rest, relaxation, and romance. With serenity and style, the Inn boasts intimate rooms, luxury amenities, and gulf-front terraces, as well as its newest Serenity Suite, perfect for weddings and honeymoons. Enjoy complimentary beach chairs/umbrellas, bicycles, chef’s gourmet myneworleans.com OCTOBER 2019 1 0 1


sponsored breakfast, picnic-style boxed lunches, happy hour drinks at the “Tiki” bar, as well as wine, chocolates, and roses upon arrival. Dine on property in the evening at Beach Walk Café, Destin’s only fine dining located directly on the Gulf with romantic, outdoor dining available. Now featuring Executive Chef Daniel Peters, Beach Walk Café will announce special events and tastings this fall. Looking for more activities than relaxing at the beach? The Inn’s guests have access to all the amenities next door at the Inn’s sister property, The Henderson, a Salamander Beach & Spa Resort. Amenities include a full-service spa, fitness center, and two beautiful pools. Visit HendersonParkInn.com or call 866-398-4432 for more information. It’s fall, y’all—and football season! Visit the Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort to experience “The New Way to Bet.” Voted Best Sportsbook by Casino Player Magazine, DraftKings at Scarlet Pearl Sportsbook offers the best sports betting on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Place a bet on your favorite teams on one of several self-service kiosks. They are available 24/7 and accept wagers for as little as $2.00. The kiosks also offer in-play betting. Catch every NFL game on 23 HD screens surrounding an astounding 144-squarefoot entertainment screen all while playing your favorite video poker game and enjoying a bite to eat. Treat yourself to an ultimate getaway at Scarlet Pearl’s luxurious hotel, voted Favorite Casino Resort to Vacation At by Casino Player Magazine. With breathtaking views, superior service, and bathrooms that feel more like a spa, Scarlet Pearl has taken the definition of luxury into the clouds. Book your next stay at ScarletPearlCasino.com or call 888-BOOK-SPC. There’s nothing like the feeling of jumping in the car and embarking on a long-awaited road trip. If there’s one thing that could ruin your journey, it’s unexpected car trouble. Fortunately, you can make sure your road trip stays on track with the peace of mind that accompanies AAA 24/7 Roadside Assistance. AAA covers you in any car, SUV, or pick-up truck even if you’re not the driver. AAA provides members with free towing, free tire change, free lock-out assistance, free minor mechanical first aid, free jump start, and free delivery of emergency fuel. For a limited time, readers of New Orleans Magazine can join AAA for only $50 and get a second household member free (promo code 175502). Current AAA members can add one new household member free (promo code 175504). For more details, see AAA’s ad in this issue, visit your local AAA branch, call 844-330-2173, or visit AAA.com/ValueOffer. Join AAA today.

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Henderson Park Inn

Gulf Shores and Orange Beach

Love swimming swim school


sponsored From October 1 through November 3, historic St. Joseph Plantation offers its annual, sought-after “Mourning Tour,” which features the grieving and funeral customs and rituals of 18th- and 19th-century Creole Louisiana. The house will be “dressed in full deep mourning,” according to the old prescribed protocol of mourning. Every weekend through November 3, St. Joseph Plantation features live actors portraying some of St. Joseph’s long-ago residents and the mourning customs they followed. Both educational and entertaining, these live re-enactments include portrayals of Dr. Cazemir Bernard Mericq and Josephine Aime Ferry who lived at St. Joseph on separate occasions. Regular tours are now offered seven days a week, and the guided mansion tour is one hour followed by a self-guided grounds tour. Photography of the interior is welcomed. The ground floor and gift shop are handicap accessible. For more information on St. Joseph Plantation, tours, and private events, visit StJosephPlantation.com or call 225-265-4078. Fall in love on Alabama’s beaches—with 32 miles of sugar-white sand beaches, turquoise waters as far as the eyes can see, and the most beautiful sunsets you’ve ever witnessed, Gulf Shores and Orange Beach offer the ideal backdrop for a romantic getaway. Whether you’re a low-key couple looking for long walks on the beach, spa outings, and glasses of wine as the sun goes down or active adventurers wanting to spend your day biking, ziplining or deep-sea fishing, this destination offers all that and more. Gulf Shores and Orange Beach also offer a plethora of accommodations to choose from, including cozy, colorful beach houses, hi-rise condos with countless amenities, and beachfront fullservice resorts. From young couples to those young at heart, Alabama’s beaches provide a multitude of ways for you to reconnect and rekindle the flame with the one you love. To learn more about the destination, visit GulfShores.com or call 877-341-2400. New Orleans Opera Association is celebrating its 77th season this year and is proud to continue the legacy of producing opera in America's First City of Opera. The tradition began when Andre Getry’s Sylvain premiered in New Orleans on April 22, 1796. The 2019-2020 New Orleans Opera season includes Carmen, a story of desire, power and obsession; The Falling and The Rising, a story of service, sacrifice, and connection inside uncertainty; Joan of Arc, beautiful music with the story of New Orleans’ beloved Saint; Charlie Parker’s Yardbird, an exploration of the tormented jazz great and bebop innovator, and The Magic Flute, a popular fairy-tale for the entire family. The NOOA Education wing features many fun events throughout the year for both children and adults with Students Night Out, Opera Nouvelle, in-school performances and programming, Opera on Tap and The Donald W. Wood, Sr. Vocal Competition. For more information, contact 504-529-3000 or go to NewOrleansOpera.org. Fall is all about enjoying life on the Mississippi in Vicksburg. With special events on the Old Mississippi River Bridge like the Over the River Run, Bricks and Spokes Bike Ride, and Supper on the Sip, Vicksburg has one-of-a-kind experiences you won’t soon forget. If you are in search of the elusive sound of the Mississippi Delta Blues, you will find it in Vicksburg. Learn American history by visiting the site of the defining battle of America’s defining war at the Vicksburg National Military Park. Enjoy the southern charm of Vicksburg by strolling the brick-paved streets of its historic downtown. Visit eclectic boutiques, art galleries, and various eateries featuring Southern specialties. Enjoy sweeping views of the mighty Mississippi

River and some of the most beautiful sunsets imaginable. Relax—it all runs on river time! For more to see and do in Vicksburg, go to VisitVicksburg.com or call 1-800-221-3536. An iconic French Quarter location for theater and entertainment, Le Petit Theatre was established just over a century ago in 1916. Today, its legacy continues with exciting productions running year-round just steps from Jackson Square. The 2019-2020 season premiers October 4 with Noises Off, a joyfully out-of-control British play-within-a-play. Following A Christmas Carol, presented throughout the holiday season, January brings Something Rotten!, a play New York Magazine called “The Producers + Spamalot + The Book of Mormon. Squared!” Spring kicks off with August Wilson’s The Piano Lesson, an intimate story about a brother and sister struggling over how to claim their family’s legacy and also free themselves of the past. April brings Angels in America: Millennium Approaches, the first part of Tony Kushner’s Pulitzer Prize and Tony Award-winning Gay Fantasia on National Themes, considered one of the best plays of the 20th century. From June 5-21, experience A Night With Janis Joplin, a musical journey celebrating Janis and her biggest musical influences—icons like Aretha Franklin, Etta James, Odetta, Nina Simone and Bessie Smith. For tickets and information, visit LePetitTheatre.com or call the box office at 504-522-2081 ext. 1. Located in the heart of Champions Square, club XLIV is the perfect venue to host your next event. Non-profit fundraising events receive a rental discount and other special offerings. “In addition to being a beautiful event space in an ideal location, we’ve always had a positive experience with the event staff at SMG,” says Caroline Bonaventure with the Camp Tiger Benefit. “They’re very accommodating with any requests we have and have numerous personnel on site the day of to help with anything we need.” Put a modern twist on classic New Orleans just steps away from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. From high-end furnishings and New Orleans-inspired décor to illuminated bars and audio/video technology, club XLIV has everything to make your next event extraordinary. Let SMG and club XLIV put the “fun” in your next fundraiser. For booking information, please contact clubXLIVsales@smgneworleans.com or call 504-587-3663. This All Saints Day and All Souls Day (November 1st and 2nd), many across New Orleans and the world will celebrate Dia de Los Muertos, or “Day of the Dead,” a time to honor ancestors and show gratitude for the protection and guidance they offer throughout the year. On those two days (10 a.m. – 5 p.m.), Spirit of Avant-Garde welcomes the general public for a free, at-your-leisure event to honor your ancestors in a special way. Alters will be available for visitors who wish to light a candle or leave a gift for loved ones who have crossed over. Additionally, a free sugar skull decorating station will be available for those wanting to personalize a gift for the alter or a memento to take home. Complimentary “Bread for the Dead,” a fresh-baked anise and citrus treat, will be available on a first come, first serve basis. Throughout the year, Spirit of Avant-Garde offers tarot, palm, tealeaf readings, washes, and more. For more information or to schedule a consultation, call 504-319-3071. Spirit of Avante-Garde is located at 533 Saint Louis Street. Visit @avantegardespiritof on Instagram and Facebook. At Love Swimming Swim School, students of all ages are taught by a team of expert adult instructors who are passionate about teaching. Through safe, fun, and small classes, Love Swimming strives to provide

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Acorn at Louisiana Children’s Museum

swimmers with a strong foundation of love and respect for the water. Love Swimming’s teachers motivate individuals to explore their abilities beyond their fears and expectations. With an indoor facility, Love Swimming Swim School never gets rained out, and their heated pools create a comfortable learning environment where swimmers can get right to swimming. This comfort is key to accelerating the learning process and developing strong safety skills that will last a lifetime. The organization believes swimming is the best exercise for babies, kids, and adults and offers classes for ages six months to adult. Begin your swimming adventures for both fun and exercise by starting lessons now. Call 504-891-4662 or visit LoveSwimming.com. The Alder Hotel Uptown is a true neighborhood gem accommodating visiting family and friends of Uptown residents, Tulane and Loyola Universities, and Ochsner Baptist Hospital. Located off of Napoleon Avenue between St. Charles and Claiborne Avenues, this mid-century style hotel features 90 spacious guest rooms with balconies and modern amenities, a serene courtyard with swimming pool, complimentary continental breakfast, and parking onsite. Once a sleepy neighborhood thoroughfare, nearby Freret Street has undergone a massive revival, becoming a food and entertainment destination. Just two blocks from the Alder Hotel, this lively area provides much to see and do. Enjoy the Deep South cuisine of High Hat Café or true Neapolitan-style pizza at Ancora. Listen to music at the hip music venue, Gasa Gasa, or relax with a cocktail at James Beard award-winning bar, Cure. Formerly known as the Bristow Tower, this historic building was once home to doctors and nurses of the Southern Baptist Hospital. Placed on the National Register of Historic Places and graciously restored in 2017, the Alder Hotel provides the style and convenience sought by modern travelers. Visit AlderHotel.com or call 504-207-4600 for more information. The historic Royal Frenchmen Hotel enjoys the distinction of being the sole, luxury boutique hotel in the midst of all of the action and entertainment of Frenchmen Street. But behind its historic walls, the 1 0 4 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

hotel offers much more than its luxury accommodations. The bar at Royal Frenchmen Hotel has recently been named the #3 hotel bar in New Orleans in the Where Y’at Best of the Big Easy Awards behind only the storied French Quarter Carousel and Sazerac bars. The Royal Frenchmen Hotel bar offers live music daily. Happy hour brings daily $3 martinis from 4 – 8 p.m., a perfect way to relax in the afternoon as music begins to fill the streets and the hotel’s relaxing courtyard. The hotel’s beautiful and spacious courtyard can accommodate up to 150 guests for weddings and other special events, placing guests right in the heart of New Orleans’ musical and cultural epicenter. Learn more about the Royal Frenchmen Hotel and book your stay or event by visiting RoyalFrenchmenHotel.com or by calling 504-619-9660.

Home Improvement & Real Estate Big Bay Lake is a one-of-a-kind planned community on one of Mississippi’s largest private recreational lakes. Located just outside of Hattiesburg, and only 90 minutes from New Orleans, Big Bay Lake blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Waterfront Homesites are available for building custom homes and retreats starting at $70,000 and several resale homes are usually available for immediate purchase. Both the homes and homesites within this community provide unique opportunities to create the perfect home or weekend getaway. It’s time to relax, unplug, make memories and create new traditions at Big Bay Lake. Whether you are a boating or fishing enthusiast or just a family who loves to make a big splash, Big Bay Lake is simply about the lure of the water. Come enjoy sun-kissed, fun-filled days at Big Bay Lake, where the little things make life… “Big!” Call for a boat tour today at 877-4BIG-BAY or visit bigbaylake.com. With Southern Refinishing, you don’t get a contractor—you get a family. Southern Refinishing offers more than 40 years of experience in bathroom and kitchen reglazing projects for customers in the Gulf South. In addition to saving homeowners the cost of replacing their bathroom and kitchen fixtures, the company’s goal is to make


every customer’s experience as comfortable and painless as possible. They know how stressful it can be to have a contractor disrupting your personal space, so the company works to minimize disruption throughout the remodeling process. From tile walls, countertops, and sinks to fiberglass and acrylic tub repairs and tub/shower conversions to clawfoot tubs, Southern Refinishing has the equipment and expertise to work with any fixture. A local New Orleans company, Southern Refinishing is experienced with both small and large jobs, from residential homes to commercial projects such as hotels. Get a customized quote today by calling 504-348-1770. Visit SouthernRefinishing.com for a gallery of projects and additional information. Based in New Orleans and licensed by Louisiana, Mississippi, and the International Society of Arboriculture to care for your trees, Benton Tree Service covers both residential and commercial work in Greater New Orleans. Owner Tim Benton, a New Orleans native, has over 20 years of experience in arboriculture and has been operating Benton Tree Service for over 12 years. Benton Tree Service can help you with fine pruning of trees and large hedges, removal of hazardous or declining trees, root pruning and root barrier installation, and protection of your trees from construction or other possible stresses. The company does not apply any harmful or petroleum-based chemicals. All of its remediation techniques are natural and organic-based, and Benton Tree Service enjoys great success with these practices. Benton Tree Service invites you to compare its Google rating with your current tree care provider. For more information or to schedule a free estimate, visit BentonTreeService.com or call 504-896-0820. At Nola Rugs, Owner Sharon Schenck and staff strive to bring you the most beautiful rugs in the world with over 2,000 examples in stock, acquired with close attention to both quality and affordability from all international weaving areas. With over 46 years of experience as a direct importer, Schenck’s goal is to provide clients with options ranging from century-old antiques, European-inspired and classic Orientals, to the cutting edge in contemporary and modern rugs. Each is handmade, exhibiting both the skill and magic of the human hand. “At NOLA Rugs, we offer our extensive experience, integrity, and service,” says Schenck. “Finding the correct rug can sometimes be confusing and our goal is to make your experience as easy and fun as possible,” she says. “Having a store like ours with such a broad selection in New Orleans and being able to see our collection in person is a huge advantage.” If you need a rug and wish to learn more, please visit Nola Rugs’ new location at 300 Jefferson Highway, Suite #401 in New Orleans.

Shopping Remember this fall that hot fashion will keep you warm, and A. Renee Boutique has plenty of hot fashion for women who “dress to kill.” From gorgeous holiday dresses and separates to designers not found anywhere else in New Orleans, you can feel confident that your new dress or outfit will be unique to you. Fun dancing and date dresses, sophisticated work attire, beautiful couture skirts and tops, and fun reversible skirts also fill the boutique. Kent Stetson bags and locally made jewelry are available for finishing the look. Whether you want to hide behind your fashion or stand out it in, A. Renee Boutique has the fall fashion for you. A. Renee Boutique stocks Misses/Women’s sizing from XS-XL. Shop online from the comfort of home at AReneeBoutique.com. Follow the fashion boutique on Facebook and Instagram at @ AReneeBoutiqueNOLA. For more information, text or call 504-418-1448 or email AReneeBoutique@gmail.com.

Dining Open now in New Orleans City Park is a restaurant with the best view in town—Acorn welcomes diners and coffee enthusiasts every day for breakfast and lunch, from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Connected to the brand new Louisiana Children’s Museum, the restaurant features its own separate entrance and a wall of windows overlooking City Park’s little lake. Acorn focuses on sustainability and features fresh, local food as well as coffee from local roaster, French Truck. The menu features breakfast items such as Avocado Toast in a Hole, Loaded Grits, and a Breakfast Burrito along with “Grab and Go” items such as croissants, biscuits, and assorted muffins. For lunch, dip into a Chicken, Shrimp or Tofu Bowl, or enjoy a variety of fresh salads, oven-baked pizzas, and sandwiches such as the Fried Chicken, Open Faced Seasonal Vegetable, or Thin Pattie Double Burger. The menu features a variety of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Acorn is a Dickie Brennan & Co. café. Find out more and view the menus at AcornNOLA.com. The café is located at the Louisiana Children’s Museum at 15 Henry Thomas Dr. in City Park. At Commander’s Palace, Executive Chef Tory McPhail, along with his experienced kitchen team, serves haute Creole dishes that continue to delight the discerning locals and visitors of New Orleans. The restaurant is known as a place where memories are made. Commander’s Palace recently celebrated its 125th anniversary and was named Restaurant of the Year 2018 by Nola.com/The Times-Picayune and Best Restaurant in New Orleans by The Gambit. This December, during the holiday season, enjoy an intimate lunch with your closest friends and family in Commander’s private wine room. Executive Chef Tory McPhail will create a Haute Creole menu that you will never forget, paired with wines by Wine Guy Dan Davis. Commander’s Palace’s wine program has earned the prestigious Wine Spectator Grand Award eight years in a row. Planning a dinner party for fall or the holidays? Commander’s Palace makes entertaining easy. The restaurant’s experienced party planner will work with you to tailor every aspect of the event to your liking. Enjoy dinner seven days a week, lunch Monday through Friday, and jazz brunch on the weekends. For reservations and more, visit commanderspalace.com. This fall, make your way over to happy hour at Palace Café, home to New Orleans’ premier rum destination, the Black Duck Bar. The bar’s new $7 ‘til 7 p.m. Happy Hour features all small plates, sandwiches, salads, flatbread, cocktail flights, and select specialty cocktails at only $7 from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m, Monday through Friday. Additionally, halfprice tap wine and draft beer are available. From the rum and adoboglazed Baby Back Ribs to the Boudin Spring Rolls, Alligator Sandwich, and Black Duck Bar’s exquisite salads and flatbread, a vast number of menu items are all reduced to a mere $7 during happy hour. Cocktail connoisseurs will want to try the $7 Cocktail Flights, which include the P’Tit Punch or Tour the Daiquiri, each with three demi cocktails. Named after the most notorious rum-running vessel during Prohibition, the rum-centric Black Duck Bar honors Louisiana’s sugarcane industry and the distilled molasses product it helps produce. The Black Duck Bar is located on the second level of Dickie Brennan’s Palace Café at 605 Canal Street. For reservations and information, visit PalaceCafe.com. •

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Cancer Care

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espite continual advancements in cancer treatment and care, a cancer diagnosis still causes great concern for thousands of patients across Louisiana every year. Fortunately, the state’s cancer treatment specialists and cancer centers offer many of the most advanced treatments available. Between clinical trials and proven, time-tested procedures and medications, there are approaches to battling cancer that can benefit cancer patients who seek help close to home. Specialists in prostate, bladder, and kidney cancers as well as radiation oncologists and other experts and programs are some of the resources below for cancer patients and their friends and families. Regional cancer centers take a comprehensive approach to fighting the disease and offer multi-disciplinary care while local cancer associations help fill the gaps in care that insurance may not cover. Meanwhile, independent imaging services offer an alternative to hospital imaging. Support abounds for those facing a cancer diagnosis across Greater New Orleans and beyond.

Cancer Treatment Specialists The number of treatment options facing prostate cancer patients can be confusing and daunting. And the appointments required to explore those options are often time consuming and inconvenient. That’s why Tulane Health System created the Tulane Multidisciplinary Prostate Cancer Clinic, bringing patients and family members 1 0 6 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

together with medical oncologists, urologic surgeons, and radiation oncology specialists to discuss all options in one convenient visit. And because waiting is often the hardest part, a medical team member will speak with any patient within 48 hours of their initial inquiry. “We’ve assembled the most experienced prostate cancer team in the Gulf South region,” says urologic surgeon Dr. Spencer Krane. “We offer the latest treatment options and cutting-edge clinical trials. We want to share this expertise with patients who need us and take away some of the stress of an incredibly stressful time.” For more information or to schedule an appointment, call 504-988-2342. The newly expanded comprehensive Kidney and Bladder Cancer Program at Tulane Cancer Center is at the forefront of kidney and bladder cancer care in the state. The program offers access to a large number of clinical trials for kidney and bladder cancer patients in all stages of their disease. With a focus on access to care, the clinical team is able to see newly diagnosed patients in clinic within a few days and quickly develop a plan for treatment. “It’s wonderful to be able to offer patients quick access to care in addition to novel treatments they won’t find anywhere else,” says Dr. Pedro Barata. Prior to overseeing the Tulane Kidney and Bladder Cancer Program, Dr. Barata worked extensively with clinical trials at the Cleveland Clinic and at M.D. Anderson Cancer Center in Houston. As a GU-focused medical oncologist, Dr. Barata specializes specifically


in the management of kidney, bladder, and prostate cancers. For more information or to schedule an appointment, call 504-988-1118 or email pbarata@tulane.edu.

types of bleeding disorders. For more information, contact Children’s Hospital’s Cancer Center at 504-896-9740 chnola.org.

Tulane Cancer Center provides a multidisciplinary approach to cancer care with a distinguished team of experts who offer the most advanced cancer treatments and access to cutting-edge clinical trials. Radiation Oncologist Dr. Kendra Harris and the Radiation Oncology Department at Tulane provide curative therapy to patients using the best equipment and techniques. The department is excited to announce the installation of a new linear accelerator— the TruBeam®—which adds new capabilities, including breath-hold gated radiation treatment delivery. In addition, the department is receiving all new CT equipment, which will add the ability to take scans during patient breath holds, providing the data necessary to further focus radiation treatments on a patient›s tumor while avoiding normal tissues. The department is also excited to welcome Dr. Audrey Dang as a faculty member. Dr. Dang returns home having recently finished radiation oncology residency at UCLA. “I’m proud of and excited about the care we deliver—it’s timely, multidisciplinary, and uses the best technology available while offering clinical trials,” says Dr. Harris. For more information, call 504-988-1070.

Touro’s Comprehensive Cancer Program provides collaborative care and support through cancer diagnosis, treatment, rehabilitation and survivorship. At Touro, you’ll find the latest cancer-fighting treatments and expert surgeons and specialists offering compassionate care and support to patients and their families. Patients can visit with several specialists in one location, often during one appointment, and receive one-stop cancer care. Touro’s supportive cancer care program provides mental, emotional, spiritual, and social support from the time your cancer is diagnosed through treatment and beyond. The Touro team takes an approach that focuses on the whole person, not just the disease. Touro’s Cancer Program is accredited by the Commission on Cancer, which is recognized as the gold standard in cancer care. This accreditation reflects Touro’s commitment to offer the highest level of cancer care for patients. Learn more about Touro’s Cancer Program by visiting touro.com/cancer/.

Cancer Centers & Programs Thibodaux Regional’s Cancer Center, located in Lafourche Parish, is a comprehensive cancer program that provides a full range of cancer treatments and services, complemented by strong emotional, lifestyle, and educational support. The Center is accredited with Commendation by the American College of Surgeons Commission on Cancer and is the only program in Louisiana to receive the College’s Outstanding Achievement Award four times. With a team of outstanding oncology specialists plus the most advanced cancer diagnostic and treatment technology available, patients will receive the highest quality of care. The Center provides advanced radiation treatment technology that is safer and more precise, including the TrueBeam Radiation Therapy System, Brainlab’s ExacTrac, RapidArc Radiation Therapy, and Brachytherapy. The Patient Care Coordinator ensures patients receive the care and support services needed for the best possible outcome. For more information about Thibodaux Regional’s Cancer Center, visit thibodaux.com. The LaNasa-Greco Center for Cancer and Blood Disorders at Children’s Hospital New Orleans treats more than 1,100 children with cancer or blood disorders each year, more than all other facilities in Louisiana combined. The hospital provides treatment and transplantation for children with leukemia, lymphoma, sickle cell anemia, hemophilia, and other childhood cancers and blood disorders. Children’s Hospital’s Cancer Program is accredited with an Outstanding Achievement Award by the American College of Surgeons and is a member of the Children’s Oncology Group (COG), a national study group of premier research institutes in the United States and Canada. The Bone Marrow Transplant Program is FACT-accredited since 2008. Hospital physicians have access to the most modern therapies for treatment of malignancies and blood disorders in children. Children’s Hospital also received accreditation from the Department of Health and Human Services as a federally recognized Hemophilia Treatment Center (HTC), to provide state-of-the-art comprehensive multispecialty care to Louisiana children with all

Resources for Patients Since 1973, Diagnostic Imaging Services has been the preferred alternative to area hospitals and medical centers for providing women’s health imaging services. Independent medical practices such as Diagnostic Imaging Services provide the high quality that people and their doctors want at much more affordable rates than area hospitals, keeping patients from sacrificing quality for cost. Now the only independent medical practice in the New Orleans area to be a Breast Imaging Center of Excellence, DIS has expanded service offerings in recent years to include advanced diagnostic techniques such as breast biopsy and breast MRI. Women know the ease, comfort, calm and convenience of the multiple locations DIS provides for breast cancer screening. The DIS women’s health imaging portfolio provides state-of-the-art diagnostics outside of a hospital setting. Choose DIS—doctor trusted, patient preferred. DIS offers locations in Metairie, Marrero, Slidell and Covington. Visit disnola.com. “It was a relief just to know I am not alone,” says Mr. Crane, a local cancer survivor. The Cancer Association believes no one should face the challenge of cancer alone. The Cancer Association of Greater New Orleans (CAGNO) was founded in 1959 with a mission to assist local cancer patients and their families by providing support that will enable them to continue their treatment. CAGNO’s program fills gaps in services such as nutritional supplies, prescriptions, and co-pays. Cancer Patients turn to CAGNO to fill these gaps that are often instead filled by family or friends or not filled at all. CAGNO proudly serves 23 parishes in Southeast Louisiana and statewide through its Breastoration Program. The organization partners with four United Ways: United Way of St. Charles, St. John United Way, United Way of South Louisiana, and the United Way of Southeast Louisiana. In 2018, CAGNO extended services to the Baton Rouge area through a generous grant. For more information, visit cagno.org or call 504-733-5539. •


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Specialty Medicine

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t’s always nice when your primary care physician is able to provide one-stop care, but sometimes a specialist is needed to either diagnose a complex issue or oversee its treatment. From disc replacements to facelifts, laser treatments to minimally invasive surgeries, specialists know more about the various approaches to complex issues from their years of study, research, and experience. Talking through your options with a specialist can help you better understand your medical needs and weigh future outcomes. Getting a second opinion from other specialists in the same field may also be helpful for seeing the big picture. With so many hospitals and medical centers across New Orleans, specialists abound in nearly every field of medicine. Find out who your friends and family see and read about the following the health care providers in the fields of orthopaedics and plastic surgery. Pharmacists also require special training and can help you acquire the right medicines and medical equipment for your needs.

Orthopaedics & Sports Medicine Serving the West Bank and Greater New Orleans region, Westside Orthopaedic Clinic provides superior general orthopaedic treatment with a specialty in spinal care. The clinic has been in operation since 1961, making it one of the longest standing orthopaedic clinics in the city. Dr. Ralph. Katz is a board certified and fellowship trained orthopedic specialist who has performed over 1,000 minimally invasive procedures with consistently excellent outcomes. For the right patient who has failed conservative treatment (e.g. medication, physical therapy, injections), a minimally invasive microdiscectomy can be done in an outpatient setting with an incision that can be covered by a band-aid. The procedure typically takes less than an hour. Most patients can return to normal activities within three to six weeks. Additionally, Dr. Katz performs 1 0 8 OCTOBER 2019 myneworleans.com

cervical and lumbar spinal fusions, utilizing small incisions with minimally invasive systems. He is one of few local surgeons who perform both cervical and lumbar disc replacements. Westside offers full-service, in-house x-rays, as well as physical therapy services with access to new rehabilitation equipment. Same day appointments can be accommodated. For more information, visit WestsideOrtho.com or call 504-347-0243.

Plastic Surgery Does your appearance reflect your inner energy? If it doesn’t, consider a consultation with board certified plastic surgeons Dr. Elliott Black or Dr. Summer Black. There are a variety of surgical and non-surgical techniques available to help individuals enhance and refresh their appearance. “Surgery is not the only option these days,” Dr. Elliott Black emphasizes. “Laser technology and other developments in the cosmetic field such as Botox and fillers offer alternatives to surgery with excellent results,” Dr. Summer Black adds. “The patient benefits with little downtime and minimal or no swelling or bruising. Many non-invasive procedures also provide immediate results,” she says. With a new office, the father and daughter team have expanded their facilities to house a full range of laser equipment, including SculpSure non-invasive fat melting, IPL, laser hair removal, fractionated erbium, and fractionated CO2. For information on available surgical or non-invasive cosmetic procedures, contact Dr. Elliott Black or Dr. Summer Black at 504-883-8900, or visit their office at 3798 Veterans Memorial Blvd. in Metairie.

Medicine & Medical Equipment Generations of families have turned to Patio Drugs for assistance in


sponsored managing their healthcare needs. Family owned and operated since 1958, Patio Drugs helps customers understand their medications, both prescription and over-the-counter, and provides free prescription delivery throughout East Jefferson. A full-service pharmacy and the oldest independent pharmacy in Jefferson Parish, Patio Drugs is also a leading provider of home medical equipment. For everything from a Band-Aid, to medication, to a hospital bed, Patio Drugs is the one-stop source for your family’s healthcare needs. In addition to providing retail and medical equipment, Patio Drugs can assist with long-term care as well as specialty and compounding services. Patio Drugs is accredited by The Joint Commission in Home Medical Equipment, Long Term Care, and Consultant Pharmacy Services. Their Compounding Pharmacy is PCAB accredited through ACHC. Patio Drugs is located at 5208 Veterans Boulevard in Metairie. For more information, call 504-889-7070. Patio Drugs, “Large Enough to Serve You, Yet, Small Enough to Know You.”

Pain Management Southern Pain & Neurological is happy to offer Superion Indirect Decompression System, a new, minimally invasive approach to treat lumbar stenosis that fits in the gap of treatment offerings between conservative care and invasive surgery. FDA approved and covered by Medicare, this outpatient treatment is especially helpful for older patients and those not able to tolerate more invasive laminectomy to treat significant limitation in walking or continuous standing. Clinical trials indicated 90% patient satisfaction through 60 months. Successful reduction in leg pain was rated at 75% for Superion, which was better than a laminectomy and for the same evaluation period.

Doctors Paul Hubbell, Barry Faust, and Donald Richardson understand that chronic pain, especially stenosis and resultant claudication, creates a prison for patients, which disables them from an active lifestyle. The stress from the walking and standing pain negatively affect personalities and decreases freedom. If you are suffering from chronic pain, contact Southern Pain and find out if the Superion minimally invasive indirect decompression system or something else is right for you. For information and scheduling at the Metairie, Marrero and Covington office, please call 1-800-277-1265.

Internal Medicine Internal Medicine Specialists, Inc. is a multi-specialty clinic caring for people›s health in New Orleans and the surrounding area for well over 60 years. Its team of specialists, nurse practitioners, and staff provide comprehensive care to patients in Allergy, Asthma, and Immunology; Endocrinology; Family Medicine; Gastroenterology; Geriatrics; Internal Medicine; Nephrology; Pulmonology. Internal Medicine Specialists, Inc. would like to congratulate Dr. Christopher Barrilleaux on being named Top Gastroenterologist and Dr. Charles C Smith, III on being named Top Pulmonologist. Dr. Barrilleaux is a board certified gastroenterologist practicing in New Orleans since 1990 after providing 10 years of military service in the Army. Dr. Smith is a board certified pulmonologist practicing in New Orleans since 1989. They both provide care to patients at the Internal Medicine Specialists, Inc. practice and in the hospital. Please call 504-897-1887 to schedule your appointment today. The practice is located Uptown at 3525 Prytania Street, Suite 526. Dr. Barrilleaux also sees patients at our LaPlace location. •

Did your business receive an impressive accolade or award in 2019? For an opportunity to let our readers know, contact Kate Henry for a special promotional opportunity in the December 2019 issue.

kate@myneworleans.com | 504.830.7216 DeaDline: november 4th

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streetcar by errol laborde

The Arrival We were up early to see a lady

who would be standing on a small island in the harbor. According to the cruise ship’s captain, we should be passing the Statue of Liberty around 7 a.m. The cruise director suggested instead 6:45, just to be sure. We were on the seventh floor deck by 6:30. We were not alone. About 50 other passengers also thought that this would be a special moment. Some had draped one of the ship’s white robes for an extra layer of warmth. All stood at the rails with their 1 2 0 OCTOBER 2019

cameras in focus. New York harbor, even in the wee hours of a quiet Sunday morning, is dazzling with images; some real, others of the mind. The latter including early steam ships chugging in after days crossing the Atlantic. What must the immigrants have thought as they too waited see the statue? Or how about the boatloads of soldiers returning from the great wars, some carried on stretchers; all relieved that they had survived. The Staten Island ferry passed

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nearby, its front deck evoking images of “Funny Girl” Barbra Streisand pleading in song for life not to rain on her parade. To the left (ok, the portside) was New Jersey, its notables including Frank Sinatra, Jersey boys, The Sopranos and the spot where Aaron Burr shot Alexander Hamilton in a duel. To the starboard is the jagged skyline of New York City, in which stand Broadway, Yankee Stadium, Central Park and, at Trinity Church, the spot where Alexander Hamilton is buried.

(Robert Fulton, the inventor of the steamboat, is buried in the plot next to Hamilton’s but gets little attention these days since Hamilton, the legacy, became a Broadway star.) “There she is!” one of the passengers shouted. Yes, there it was as the ship negotiated a bend. With her outstretched right arm carrying a golden flame atop a torch, “Lady Liberty,” as her closest friends call her, was already busy greeting arrivals. I fully expected to marvel at this monument, and I did, until I happened to glance toward the starboard at the continuing pageantry of the Manhattan skyline. Standing out was a sleek and stylish building climbing to 104 stories making it the tallest building in the hemisphere. No building, perhaps none in the world, triggers as much emotion and thought as does the glowing new One World Trade Center, boldly making a statement by its presence. Our ship docked at a spot not far from where the Titanic, had it ever arrived, would have berthed. The harbor was getting busy with the traffic from boats of all sorts, each greeted by the lady. Another day at the nation’s front door was underway. To have been standing at a spot in the harbor flanked by the statue and the tower, both in their own ways symbols of hope and renewal, was a sensory overload, each demanding visual attention, but the tower won out. In its own way, it too carries a torch.

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ARTHUR NEAD Illustration


Profile for Renaissance Publishing

New Orleans Magazine October 2019  

New Orleans Magazine October 2019