Page 1


october 2017

OCTOBER 2017 / VOLUME 51 / NUMBER 12 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Ashley McLellan Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Writers Mary Lou Eichhorn, Fritz Esker, Kathy Finn, Dawn Ruth Wilson, Brobson Lutz, M.D., Jason Berry, Carolyn Kolb, Chris Rose, Eve Crawford Peyton, Mike Griffith, Liz Scott Monaghan, Lee Cutrone, Dale Curry, Jay Forman, Tim McNally, Robert Peyton, Mirella Cameran Web Editor Kelly Massicot Staff Writers Kelly Massicot, Melanie Warner Spencer Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan Sales Manager Kate Sanders Henry (504) 830-7216 / Senior Account Executive Jessica Marasco Account Executives Claire Cummings, Peyton Simms Director of Marketing and Events Cheryl Lemoine Event Coordinator Whitney Weathers Digital Media Associate Mallary Matherne For event information call (504) 830-7264 Production Manager Jessica DeBold Production Designers Emily Andras, Demi Schaffer, Molly Tullier Traffic Coordinator Topher Balfer Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive Vice President Errol Laborde Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Mallary Matherne Subscriptions Manager Brittanie Bryant WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 Subscriptions: (504) 830-7231

New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2017 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.


O C TO B E R 2017

m yne w orl ea ns .com


Malone Souliers “Maureen” blush velvet pump and grey velvet “Robyn” flat at SoSusu Boutique; Loeffler Randall silver pom pom “Lulu” mules at Pilot and Powell; Grey Glitter bow sandals by Chloe at Joseph.






The Quiz

Last days of Storyville

Chic Street

WWI Centennial

Know your New Orleans

Shutting down “the District”

Magazine Street Fashion

A New Orleans Connection

New Orleans

By John Kemp

By Sally Asher

By Lisa Tudor

By Brian altobello

celebrates 300!

on the cover

Contents departments



Local Color Chris Rose Purge the Surge 52

Modine Gunch Mitch’s Fault 54

Joie d’Eve Imperfect Home 56

In Tune Two Festivals to Watch 58

Book Reviews A review of the latest books 60

The Beat

Jazz Life



Entertainment calendar 28

Making Music Bounce 62

Well Schooled 64

Art Local Artist Brandan Odums 30

Persona Musician Jimmy Buffett 32


The Menu

Supermarket Dot Com 36

Table Talk


Brasa Bound 110

Sci High Flies High 40

Restaurant Insider


News From the Kitchens 112

Pipe Dreams 42



Hot Boudin! 114

In the Spirit 46

Last Call


Devil’s Fire 116


Cross Current 48

Dining Guide

Tricentennial: The Montreal Influence 16

Plus restaurant spotlights 118


In Every Issue

Speaking Out Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon 22


Julia Street Questions and answers about our city 24

Try This Rosé All Day 166

Streetcar Roffignac 168

DIAL 12, D1 Head to WYES-TV/Channel 12 and all month long for discussions about the candidates on the ballot for New Orleans mayor. Informed Sources brings viewers a live, hour-long election special with local reporters that will take questions from the studio audience. Voters can choose topics and questions and hear from the mayoral candidates through an interactive webpage at WYES wants you to be informed and provides you with the tools to make an educated decision. For additional information, head to DIAL12, a special WYES section in the back of New Orleans Magazine.


Tricentennial The Montreal Influence


here is a statue in downtown Montreal of Charles le Moyne de Longueuil et de Châteauguay. There he was best known as a soldier, furrier and explorer. In New Orleans he is barely known, but should be remembered as the father of two daughters and twelve sons, including two with names as long as his, but better known in history as Iberville and his younger brother Bienville. We will be hearing much about the latter in the next year. The idea of founding a city in the Louisiana territory and naming it after French regent Philippe II Duke of Orléans was not entirely his, but the decision to build that city along the big bend in the Mississippi river was his cause. There was debate about building the city elsewhere, including upriver by Bayou Manchac where the land was higher, or along the gulf coast where access to the sea was quicker. Bienville was adamant though. Not only was the water deeper at the big bend but there was a group of connecting lakes, which could provide access to the gulf. Then too there was Bayou St. John stretching from the lake toward the river. (Cynics would also suggest that Bienville was motivated because of the land grant he was given along a strip of the river.) For whatever the reason, we owe the city’s location to Iberville’s little brother. Because of his persistence, it is possible to smell the beignets within site of where the big ships glide around the curve. Here, though, is another theory of why he chose where he did. 16

O C TO B E R 2017

m yne w orl ea ns .com

Several years ago I was in Montreal where I asked the guide if she could find the LeMoyne home. Fortunately she knew. The home no longer stands, but she showed me the site, which was in the old town section. What I remember most was looking down the street and seeing the activity from the St. Lawrence Seaway. As we toured, she noted that the town is surrounded by water with the Ottowa rivers connecting on one side and the St. Lawrence on the other. The city is referred to sometimes as the L’ isle de Montreal. Hmmmm. Where have I heard that sort of description before? How about Île d’Orléans, also bounded by a great river and then a chain of lakes? Both Bienville’s hometown and and the city he founded were inland islands. (Whatsmore, there is an island in the St. Lawrence River known as Isle d’ Orleans.) Standing along the river in the Louisiana territory he probably could not help but to think of Montreal. People still debate if he made the right decision. Was the site too low; or too far upriver? Would it be vulnerable to hurricanes? What if the levees break one day? Nevertheless, it is a site so rich in geography that it just seems right. It also had a kinship with Montreal, both in terms of their surroundings and their history. Charles LeMoyne’s greatest accomplishment may have been giving birth to a sprit of exploration.

on the web

2017 Press Club of new orleans AWARDS Ashton Phelps Memorial Award for Editorial Writing Errol Laborde Editoral Print “The T-P and The Advocate” Errol Laborde

Our Blogs Be the first to read our blogs, get the 411 on top events around the city and see the features and columns from all seven of our publications all in one place.

Follow us

Special Section “People to Watch” Tiffani Reding Amedeo, Morgan Packard, Sarah Ravits

Facebook: NewOrleansMagazine Twitter: @NewOrleansMag Instagram: @NewOrleansMag Pinterest: NewOrleansMag

Our Newletters

Layout Design “50 things every New Orleanian Should Do” Tiffani Reding Amedeo Cartoon Mike Luckovich

Sign up at

@NewOrleansMag 18

O C TO B E R 2017

m yne w orl ea ns .com



meet the sales staff

Kate Sanders Henry Sales Manager (504) 830-7216


O C TO B E R 2017

m yne w orl ea ns .com

Jessica Marasco

Claire Cummings

Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7220

Account Executive (504) 830-7250

Peyton Simms

Colleen Monaghan

Account Executive (504) 830-7249

Vice President of Sales (504) 830-7215

my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


speaking out

It Is Not About Race It is about powerlessness


ome of you might recall a television situation comedy called “Taxi.” In it, comedian Andy Kaufman portrayed a foreign- born mechanic named Latka Gravas. Latka’s native country was never revealed, though it seemed like it belonged somewhere in the Balkans at a spot out of sight from the rest of the world. In one memorable episode Latka happened to meet a woman from the old country named Simka Dahblitz (who had a strong resemblance to actress Carol Kane.) As luck, and script writing, would have it, the two fell in love. There was one serious problem, though. Although they were from the same country, each was from an ethnic group that despised the other. Simka was from the country’s mountain people, a group that to Latka’s valley-rooted


O C TO B E R 2017

family was decidedly underclass. A valley person dating a mountain person: What would the folks back home think? I am not sure what the grudge was that the ground folks had with the hill toppers, but I am confident that the root cause was the same that has historically created tension among people—one group feeling like their life was being compromised by the other. In this case the valley people might have felt that the mountain neighbors were tapping into their river. Or the mountain people might have worried that the people below, because they were in greater numbers, controlled the politics. That type of tension is ancient: the Jews feeling suppressed by the Romans or the Romans being thrashed by the Huns. It could probably date back to some Neanderthal swinging his club

m yne w orl ea ns .com

at a passerby who was sitting on his rock. Impoverished white southern farmers never had much of an interest in the Civil War, which they regarded as a plantation owners’ battle, but after the war, when freed blacks began competing in the agriculture market, tensions began to rise. In Southern cities during Reconstruction the local white middle class felt its autonomy stepped on by northern carpetbaggers. And so it has gone. Skin color per se is not really a cause of the tension except that, in some cases, it identifies one group to the other, but that is an imperfect measurement. In many ways the races get along better than activists and some politicians (who build a voter base off of tension) would ever acknowledge. Clouding the situation are

extremist groups, most often young men funneling their frustration into paramilitary organizations. From American extremists to those who have been radicalized in Europe and Asia, the joiners are usually in search of power and recognition in a life in which they have had neither. There is no simple solution to a problem that is so ancient and entrenched. A first step though, especially for political leaders, would be to ditch the rhetoric. (The word “racist,” or its derivatives, is a loaded term, which often relies on stereotypes, and that itself is a form of bigotry.) We need leaders with the wisdom to better grasp each other’s history, and if not to endorse it to at least understand it. Eventually all of us who live in the valley should visit the top of the mountain. •


julia street

Dear Julia, My wife is a proud product of your fine city (and as a proud Yankee I love it too in so many ways). I recently became involved with Ancestry. com. I was working on my wife’s side of the family and in the process, she related a desire to know something of her past. Her family had property in the area where the Industrial Canal was built. She was told as a child that they moved the house instead of demolishment. It was located at 4513 St. Claude. It is listed as such on the 1900 U.S. Census. Now, the house is located at 4511 St. Claude. Both of us find it somewhat hard to believe that they tried to preserve any buildings in the area, especially after asking Ursuline to move. Is there any way to find out? Perhaps Poydras could take a deep dive into the canal and find the original foundation? - Paul Forde (Argo, AL)


O C TO B E R 2017

m yne w orl ea ns .com

with poydras the parrot

I am not convinced the house property among her children and was relocated due to construction daughter Bertha got two lots. of the Inner Harbor Navigational In 1908, Bertha married Emile Canal, the waterway popularly Schwartz; baby Emile came along known as the Industrial Canal. the following year. The newlyweds In fact, I have reason to doubt and their baby lived for a while whether it moved at all. in Bertha’s childhood home at The Inner Harbor 4513 St. Claude but someNavigation Canal was time between 1910 and Inner Harbor Navigation in the works for years 1913, they were listed as Canal (postcard and was formally living at 4511 St. Claude. circa 1923) dedicated in 1922. The The most likely explanahuge tract on which the tion may be that the old Ursuline Convent sat was family home was replaced with a newer and presumably eventually selected as the canal larger one erected next door on site but it was not acquired until 1918. Although that tract was less lots Bertha had purchased from than three blocks away from the her mother’s estate. The couple’s 4500 block of St. Claude, canal second child was born in 1911, so construction and land acquisition did the expanding family needed does not appear to have involved more space? that block even though the bridge approach runs right in front of it. Furthermore, it seems odd that the house would be moved a few dozen feet away to the lot immediately next door to its former location years before canal site selection was finalized and the Ursuline tract was acquired. In the late 1800s, Jean Saunee and his wife, Camille Casteix, like many others in that part of the old Third District, were farmers. Dear Readers The couple raised crops and ran a dairy on St. Claude between Flying over Gentilly earlier Alexander and Josephine Streets this summer, Poydras was unable (now Kentucky and Japonica). to find an example of the LCCO Later widowed, Camille then sidewalk marking Mike Carrol wed Jean Marie Lacassagne but described in our July issue. An alert continued living at the same St. reader happened to glance down Claude location. When the 1900 while jogging through the area census was taken, Camille’s and shared a picture of the faint family, including daughter Bertha markings, which read LA.C.CO.,Inc. Saunee, lived at 4513 St. Claude. and most likely refers to the When Camille passed away in Louisiana Concrete Company, Inc. 1906, her widower quickly divided

photograph courtesy of The Historic New Orleans Collection

Dear Julia, I am writing in response to a question posed by Rob Pisani in the last column. Neither Julia nor Poydras had ever heard of the sparkle houses and did not know where they were. Also, because I know where they were, I suspect that Julia/Poydras was wrong about where Rob went to get his donuts. I’d bet dollars to donuts that Rob went to the Louisiana Avenue location, and not Bayou Road, because the sparkle houses “weren’t too far from Picou’s.” I went to the “new” Dominican High School on Walmsley in the mid to late 1960s. At the time, a chemical plant was located directly behind Dominican, occupying a large lot between Earhart and Colapissa Street. The sparkle houses were little one story (appeared to be on slabs), stucco-like boxes on Colapissa Street between Pine Street and Lowerline, facing the chemical plant. One was painted semi-bright yellow and one was painted a pretty Tahiti-lagoon blue. I thought there was a third or more, but I can only picture two. Embedded in the stucco was what appeared to be glitter. The entire house sparkled in the sunlight. I loved it! Now, if these aren’t the ones Rob remembers, I would love to know about others. These two were great. - Mary L. Dumestre (New Orleans, LA)

1970s, when the site became the Family Inn. The row of mid-20th century houses that stood along the 7300 block of Colapissa Street between Pine and Lowerline were razed more than a decade ago. Since I never personally saw the houses in person or in pictures, I must trust your recollection that they appeared glittery. While not close to Picou’s, the houses you recall were not terribly far away by automobile, especially if a driver used nearby Fountainbleau Drive as a shortcut to Broad Street. It is possible that you and Rob are recalling the same houses but I suspect there may have been another set of shiny houses in the general vicinity of Bayou Road and N. Dorgenois Street.

Win a restaurant gift certificate Here is a chance to eat, drink and have your curiosity satiated all at once. Send Julia a question.

I’m sorry to say you’d lose money or munchies if you actually made that wager, Mary. Unless Rob had a functional time machine, the only Picou’s location he and his pals could have patronized in the early 1970s was the one on Bayou Road. Picou’s store at 2138 Louisiana Avenue was fairly short-lived. By 1956, Cado’s Liquor Store was operating at that address and remained there until the early

If we use it, you’ll be eligible for a monthly drawing for a Jazz Brunch for two at The Court of Two Sisters. To take part, send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: This month’s winners are Loretta Tuminello, New Orleans and Marinus Quist, Covington, LA.

my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



O C TO B E R 2017

m yne w orl ea ns .com


THE beat . marquee

October Our top picks for this month’s events By fritz esker

Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival October is a fine month to be outside in New Orleans, and what better way to spend your time outdoors than with music and BBQ? The Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival is in Lafayette Square Park from Oct. 13-15. A highlight of this year’s fest will be the Como Mamas, three renowned gospel singers from Mississippi. Information,


O C TO B E R 2017

myne w

Art for Art’s Sake

New Orleans Film Festival

Day of the Dead/Fet Gede

If the heat and the crowds of White Linen Night make you stay home, try Art for Art’s Sake. There’s good art, good music and good beverages around the Julia St. and Magazine St. galleries on Saturday, Oct. 7. There’s also an after-party at the Contemporary Arts Center. It’s free and open to the public except for the after-party. Information,

Rub elbows with actors and filmmakers at locations throughout the city from Oct. 11-19 for the New Orleans Film Festival. The festival highlights a variety of local, Hollywood, and international films. Some of last year’s selections included Oscar winners Moonlight and Manchester by the Sea. Information,

Spirits and celebrations don’t stop at Halloween. On Nov. 1, the New Orleans Healing Center will host the Day of the Dead/Fet Gede. There will be a parade of the dead and ancestor altars by various artists. Attendees are encouraged to bring photos of their deceased loved ones for the main altar. It is also a potluck supper, so please bring a dish. Information,

calendar Events, Exhibits & Performances

Sept. 29-Oct. 1 Treme Fall Fest, St. Augustine Church.

Sept. 30-Jan. 21 Solidary and Solitary: The Joyner and Giuffrida Collection, Ogden Museum of Southern Art.

Oct. 6-7 Ponderosa Stomp 13, Orpheum Theater.

Oct. 6-8 Gentilly Fest, Pontchartrain Park.

Oct. 6-21 Oktoberfest, Deutsches Haus.

Oct. 6 The Comedy Get Down, Smoothie King Center.

Oct. 7 Beignet Fest, City Park Festival Grounds.

Oct. 12 Champions of Magic, Orpheum Theater.

Oct. 12 Dylan Moran, Joy Theater.

Oct. 13 In this Moment: HALF GOD/HALF DEVIL TOUR, Orpheum Theater.

Oct. 15 Herbie Hancock, Orpheum Theater.

Oct. 17 Roadcase Royale - Featuring Nancy Wilson of Heart and Liv Warfield, Joy Theater.

Oct. 19 Lil Yachty Teenage Tour, Joy Theater.

Oct. 20 Beethoven Violin Concerto with Mendelssohn’s “Reformation”, Orpheum Theater.

Oct. 20-22 Praise Fest, Bayou St. John.

Oct. 20-22 LGBT Halloween in New Orleans, French Quarter.

Oct 20-28 Escape to Margaritaville, Saenger Theater.

Oct. 21 Gogol Bordello + Lucky Chops, Joy Theater.

Oct. 21 Cochon de Lait Festival, Palmer Park.

Oct. 21 Mac ’n’ Cheese Fest, Armstrong Park.

Oct. 21 Bruno Mars: 24K Magic World Tour, Smoothie King Center.

Oct. 21 Krewe of Boo Halloween Parade, French Quarter.

Oct. 22 Oak Street Po-Boy Festival, Oak Street.

Oct 27 Prieto Conducts Dvorak 7, Orpheum Theater.

Oct. 27-29 Louisiana Seafood Festival, Woldenberg Park.

Oct. 27-29 WWII Air, Sea, & Land Festival, New Orleans Lakefront Airport.

Oct. 27-29 Voodoo Music + Arts Experience, City Park.

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


THE beat . art

Art on display local exhibits

East of the Mississippi Starting October 6

This new exhibit at NOMA explores the origins of landscape photography in the US through nineteenthcentury American works made east of the Mississippi River.

Art for Arts’ Sake October 7 5:00 - 9:00 p.m.

Art lovers will gather in the Warehouse Arts District on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center and Magazine Street for the annual art season kick-off party.

City of Alchemy Visual Artist & Filmmaker Brandan Odums

By Alexa Harrison

New Orleans Film Festival


randan “B-Mike” Odums believes when you see boundaries as opportunities, the world becomes a limitless place. This power of positive thinking paired with undeniable talent is what brought the highly sought-after visual artist and filmmaker where he is today: Studio Be, a 35,000-square foot warehouse in the Bywater, the final installment of the “Be” series and his first solo show. The series started with Project Be, an illegal artistic act of painting in an abandoned building that was ultimately shut down, but not before all involved, including Odums himself, fell in love with the idea. “We took paint and created alchemy, took something painful and made it temporarily beautiful,” says Odums. Odums uses his art to introduce people to narratives in history they may not have otherwise known, and also to affirm personal value for the viewers themselves. “I hope people see themselves reflected in the paintings I create,” Odums says. “Whether it’s some giant in history, or an everyday person from New Orleans, somewhere in that affirmation of value lies the solution to the issues we see everyday in this city.” From the paintings, Odums has created a line of


O C TO B E R 2017

myne w

T-shirts, each with a different meaning for Odums, available at the Studio Be shop. “I Am My Ancestors Wildest Dreams, was first told to me by Mariana Sheppard, a brilliant artist here in New Orleans.” says Odums. “Those words have forever protected me during my darkest moments and I’m hoping they will provide the same feeling to others.” Prior to pursuing painting, Odums was a successful filmmaker, having founded 2cent Entertainment, a company that created music videos for Mos Def, Currency, Mannie Fresh, Juvenile, and Mystikal, among others. Odums and his contemporaries focused on creating content that empowered people to use their voice and talents to create change. The organization has since founded a summer camp, now in it’s sixth year, that teaches teenagers in New Orleans how to use digital media to speak their “2-cents,” or raise their voice in the face of issues plaguing the black community. “New Orleans is a teacher that keeps on teaching, and a lover that keeps on loving,” Odums says. “Every day I’m inspired by New Orleans’ past, present and future; the people that make the culture; the culture that makes the community; it continually informs me and equips me. We are a city of survivors... a city of alchemists.” •

October 11-19

Now in its 28th year, the festival will take place citywide, featuring documentaries, Louisiana-made films, music videos and more for $9 to $35 per event, all access passes $250-$320.

New Orleans artist and filmmaker Brandan “B-Mike” Odums.

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


THE beat . persona

Jimmy Buffett Escape to Margaritaville By Ashley McLellan


immy Buffett has been making a career out of good food, good times and good music for more than 40 years. The singer, songwriter, business entrepreneur, restaurateur, and best-selling author is adding a new job to his long resume: Broadway musical composer. Escape to Margaritaville, a new musical comedy, makes is pre-Broadway debut right here in New Orleans October 20-28 at the Saenger Theater. The musical features original songs, as well as many of the tunes Parrotheads have come to know by heart. The production team also includes several Tony and Emmy Award winners. New Orleanians have a unique relationship with Buffett, embracing both his beach combing lifestyle and a mutual love of libations and festing at the Fairgrounds. We tracked the troubadour True Confession down to discuss our I haven’t been to cultural connections, confession in a long musical debuts and the time and I am not true story behind that going back now. famous cheeseburger. Why did you want to debut Escape To Margaritaville in New Orleans at the Saenger? It was not my decision, but I am overjoyed that New Orleans and the Saenger were chosen. I have a long history with both the town and the theatre. My uncle Jack Rappaport had an office in the Saenger, and I would watch movies and shows from the balcony for free as a 12-year-old. It was where I first thought about becoming a shameless entertainer. We’ve heard that the story for Escape To Margaritaville is completely original. What’s it about? Let’s just say it’s not far from one of the simple, but most important themes of mine - there are very few people who wouldn’t want to spend a few weeks on a tropical island.

myne w orleans. com

OCTOBER 2 0 1 7


What was it like watching Escape To Margaritaville for the first time? I was a bit overcome. I had never seen a Jimmy Buffett show before. What is your favorite Broadway play? South Pacific, by far. New Orleans has a long love affair with all things Jimmy Buffett, and we hope the feeling is mutual. What brings you back to New Orleans? Gumbo, Jazz Fest, the Saints, friends and family and memories - lots of memories. Are your New Orleans fans different from other places? Not really, but we all know New Orleanians have music, food and fun in their DNA, and so do I. There’s a rumor that the famous cheeseburger from “Cheeseburger in Paradise” was inspired by a menu item at Camellia Grill in New Orleans. Is this accurate, or do you want to set the record straight? I love the Camelia Grill cheeseburger, but no, it is not accurate. The inspiration came down in the British Virgin Islands at the end of a not so glamorous sailing passage, and we found a waterfront bar with cheeseburgers. Who are you listening to you right now? Today, I was listening to Chancha Via Circuito as I made a passage from Sag Harbor, NY to Martha’s Vineyard. What is your favorite cocktail or craft beer? I am presuming tequila on the rocks is not a cocktail, so it would be a mojito with good Cuban rum and not a lot of sugar You’re an award-winning, stadium-filling musician, successful businessman, best-selling author, and now musical theater impresario. Is there something you haven’t done that is still on your to-do list? Go to space. •

At a Glance Age: 70 Occupation: Singer/Writer Born: Pascagoula, Mississippi, Dec 25, 1946 Education: B.S. from University of Southern Mississippi in History and Journalism Favorite Book: Following the Equator by Mark Twain Favorite Movie: The Man Who Would Be King Favorite TV show: Adventures in Paradise Favorite food: Gumbo Favorite restaurant: Bistro Paul Bert in Paris


O C TO B E R 2017

myne w

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


THE beat . biz

A Healthy Market whole food facts

The first Whole Foods Market opened in Austin, Texas in 1980. In 1988, a small store on Esplanade Avenue in New Orleans became the first Whole Foods Market location outside of Texas. Number of employees 87,000

Supermarket Dot Com Could Amazon-Whole Foods transform ‘makin’ groceries’? By Kathy Finn


ow cutthroat can a highly competitive industry become when a powerful new rival steps in? Customers of a large retailer with local ties may begin to see an answer to that question in coming months. For years after the 1980s startup of Whole Foods Market, retail analysts questioned whether a grocer that specialized in foods labeled “organic” and costing more than the average product sold in conventional supermarkets could succeed. Grocery stores, after all, have traditionally existed on a razorthin profit margin, which made them reliant on their ability to achieve high-volume sales. But decades later, the concept of shopping for “natural” foods


O C TO B E R 2017

grown or produced with few or no harmful additives had proven its staying power. As it turned out, a lot of people did want better food products, and Whole Foods was developing a loyal following. Whole Foods Market was founded in Austin, Texas, but it established a New Orleans connection at a very early stage. In 1980 – soon after Whole Foods Market started up in Texas – a New Orleans entrepreneur named Peter Roy acquired a struggling local co-op store that also was called Whole Foods. As he aimed to grow the business, he sought the help of Tulane University business professor John Elstrott to develop a business strategy. Elstrott became Roy’s first “outside” investor.

myne w

Annual sales $15.8 billion Number of stores worldwide 460 Chief Executive Officer John P. Mackey

A short time later, as the Austin-based Whole Foods laid plans to expand outside of Texas, the little New Orleans co-op became its first acquisition target. The local store became the first non-Texas location of Whole Foods Market. After the acquisition, Roy would go on to become president of Whole Foods Market for a period of time. Elstrott, meanwhile, became one of the first shareholders in what would become one of the most successful “green” grocers in the country. Elstrott joined the Whole Foods Market’s board of directors in 1984 and 25 years later was elected chairman. During his years of leadership, the company

Shareholder information Whole Foods Markets operates stores in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom. Its shares trade on the NASDAQ exchange. Stock symbol WFM Price on 8/25/17 $41.99 Market capitalization $13.5 billion Net income (2016) $507,000

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


expanded in three countries and grew to employ 87,000 people. It became the dominant player in a sector that had become a firmly established part of the grocery industry. But recent years have brought stiffer competition in the green grocery arena. New players have forced greater price and product competition, and Whole Foods found the going increasingly rough. Last May, as Whole Foods Market’s sales continued a decline and its stock price languished far below its previous highs, Elstrott was forced to step down from the post he had held for eight years. What followed thereafter likely marked a big turning point in the company’s evolution. Barely a month after Elstrott stepped down, a retailing behemoth swept in to take the reins at Whole Foods Market. Online retail giant Amazon announced it would buy the grocer for $13.4 billion. Moody’s retail analyst Charlie O’Shea said the deal has the potential to be “transformative ... not just for food retail, but for retail in general.” Amazon during the past decades has already drastically shaken up shoppers’ buying habits by offering an enormous range of products online, often at prices below what shoppers would pay for the exact same items in a brick-and-mortar store. The company’s efficient fulfillment operations and quick – often free – delivery, has won over buyers so successfully that some of the best-known retail stores in the country have suffered sales declines and face an uncertain future. Bringing that model to


O C TO B E R 2017

myne w

the sale of groceries could, indeed, prove transformative. Amazon already offered grocery-delivery services in several markets at the time of its deal for Whole Foods, and the purchase of a grocery with the broad reach of Whole Foods paved the way for a big Amazon grocery expansion. The “implications ripple far beyond the food segment, where dominant players like Walmart, Kroger, Costco, and Target now have to look over their shoulders at the Amazon train coming down the tracks,” O’Shea told an Associated Press reporter. Online delivery of groceries has developed slowly due to customers’ concerns about the quality of items such as meat and produce, but if Amazon is able to demonstrate that it can deliver the same quality and freshness available from a store, shoppers are more likely to try it out, analysts say. And the impact on traditional grocers could be significant. If, for instance, Amazon can convince 20 million members of its Prime loyalty program to pay $15 a month extra for AmazonFresh grocerydelivery service, that’s 20 million shoppers not going to traditional supermarkets, one analyst pointed out. In August, Amazon began experimenting with deep price cuts in Whole Foods stores as it planned what is likely to be a big rollout of heavily discounted online grocery shopping down the road. “The conventional grocery store should feel threatened and incapable of responding,” Wedbush Securities analyst Michael Pachter said. The process of “makin’ groceries” has turned a big corner. •

Bags, Shoes and Accessories Made Using Real Cork as a Leather

French Quarter 838 Chartres at Dumaine

Uptown 3005 Magazine at 7th

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


THE beat . education

was retiring for the second time. The decision proved fruitful. Sci High students scored the highest average composite score on the ACT college entrance exam of any New Orleans openenrollment, public high school in the 2016-2017 academic year, according to state figures posted by Education Now!, a website that follows school trends. That

We opened our doors and took whoever showed up, no transcripts.”

Sci High Flies High Creativity enlivens science school By Dawn Ruth Wilson


urricane Katrina forced educators to think outside the box, and New Orleans Charter Science and Mathematics High School, nicknamed “Sci High,” still embraces unconventional thinking. Take leadership decisions as an example: After two failed attempts to replace retiring school founder Barbara MacPhee, officials gave up the typical search for an experienced outside candidate and promoted from within. Chana Benenson and another administrator, took charge. The co-prin-


O C TO B E R 2017

cipal team carried on MacPhee’s guiding principle that all children can succeed in the difficult subjects of math and science. “I did not think school administration would be my path,” says Benenson, “but if the school has a need, you just step up and do it.” Five years ago, when she became co-principal with then instructional coach Claire Jecklin, who has since moved on, Benenson was only 32. Formerly a French and Spanish teacher, she had been dean of students for a year when she was tapped to replace MacPhee, who

myne w

feat becomes more striking when compared to the early days when the majority of students couldn’t read at grade level. MacPhee hired a specialist to fix that problem, she said in a 2007 New Orleans Magazine interview. The school’s origins go back to 1993 when MacPhee, a former Orleans Parish School Board administrator, opened a halfday math and science program housed at Delgado Community College. When Katrina wrecked that facility, MacPhee and supporters won a charter to open a full-day school at Allen Elementary School, located on Loyola Avenue. Benenson, a Washington state native who had been a Teach for America teacher at a different New Orleans school, was one of several teachers that MacPhee recruited. Just three months after the storm, Benenson was helping

move whatever was salvageable from the old building to the new. “We opened our doors and took whoever showed up,” she says, “no transcripts.” Now in its 25th year, the school stresses hands-on, technical training as well as preparing students for college. In addition to the usual high school courses, Sci High offers training in areas such as computer science, construction and nursing. Over the summer, Benenson says 70 students had internships in their chosen fields. Sci High is all about on-going personal growth and flexibility, she says, which is reflected in the nautilus, a sea creature housed in a many-chambered, circular shell that serves as the school’s mascot. The goal is to educate students to be as adaptable as the nautilus, which has survived and evolved in changing environments for millions of years. “Metaphorically, for our students,” Benenson says, “it represents the next phase of life.” The blue and white nautilus theme shows up all over the school, including nautilusshaped inlays in the flooring and in Benenson’s personal style. She wears nautilus-shaped earrings and blue fingernail polish. The school’s efforts are noticed. A group of 10th graders lounging outside its red-brick facade one day in August gave Sci High top marks. One described it as “fun” with “good teachers.” His two friends agreed. Is there any higher praise? •

Craig Mulcahy photo

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



Pipe Dreams Lead and our drinking water By Brobson Lutz, M.D.


ur bowl of a city filled with water from the skies last August. The deluges disclosed infrastructure deficiencies that our municipal government had ignored. But more than floods bombarded the Sewerage and Water Board last summer. Just before those August rains and exposed pump failures, the city’s inspector general lobbed a now nearly forgotten lead balloon on that same Board. What are health concerns related to lead? Most adults with mildly elevated levels have no specific symptoms, but even minimally detected levels accelerate cardiovascular risks from raising blood pressure to increasing the likelihood of heart attacks and strokes. Higher levels cause nerve and kidney damages. Young children with developing nervous systems are more vulnerable to adverse effects at lower lead levels than adults. Toddlers, young holy priests of dirt to mouth transport, are most at risk. Mildly elevated lead levels


O C TO B E R 2017

myne w

can cause behavioral problems, permanent learning disabilities, and impaired development. Teenagers and young adults with documented preschool elevated lead levels are less likely to finish high school and more likely to be arrested for violent crimes. The waterworks leading to the surge in lead anxiety erupted nationally a couple of years ago after some unfortunate municipal belt tightening in Flint, Michigan. After years of piping in processed municipal water from one of the great lakes, the city switched to water from the nearby Flint River to save money. It was a costly mistake. There are chemical differences between different water sources. The Flint River water after purification was more acidic than the lake. Just as pool owners adjust acid and pH in home swimming pools, water purification plants can easily raise the pH of acidic water. Acidic water and pipes are a bad combination.

tips Get the lead out

The Sewerage and Water Board will run a free lead test on your tap water. They promise results back in less than six weeks. Call 865-0420. For faster results, buy a $8-$10 PRO-LAB Lead in Water collection kit and mailer from a hardware or big box store. Mail the lab a tap water sample with an additional $40 for the analysis. Expect results back by email in about a week. For additional online information about water and lead in New Orleans with links to national resources go to water_lead.asp.

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


The folks running the Flint water processing plant failed Waterworks 101. Releasing acidic water into the distribution system caused their old pipes and lead solder joints to corrode leaching high levels of lead into the Flint drinking water. A safe and simple adjustment would have raised their water’s pH making it less acidic.

I have never seen a dog with lead poisoning from drinking water. All the occasional cases we see are associated with construction and renovations” Hundreds of houses in New Orleans also have lead feeder pipes and/or pipes soldered with lead, but we don’t have acidic water. Unless these pipes are disrupted in some way, say by heavy construction, the lead stays in the pipes encased by a protective chemical oxide, sort of like the thin transparent covers used to protect cell phone screens. If you find a flyer on your door asking you to flush your inside pipes, you may have a lead pipe. Nearby street construction might also trigger more line flushing than usual. Replacement of any lead pipes from your water meter to inside your house is on your dime. The United States banned lead-based paints in 1978 and gasoline with lead additives in 1995. Since these bans, and with necessary precautions with sanding and removing both exterior and interior lead based paint, lead levels in both children and adults plummeted. As lead levels fell, the definition of what is elevated also fell. For children, what was once elevated


O C TO B E R 2017

myne w

was dropped to a level of concern at 10 and further decreased to needs further investigation for any level of five or more. Dogs serve as canaries in the coal mine for households with lead problems. If a dog has elevated lead levels, small children in that household are at high risk. But what about dogs and drinking water? “I have never seen a dog with lead poisoning from drinking water. All the occasional cases we see are associated with construction and renovations,” said Dr. Gordy Labbe, an LSU graduate veterinarian from Alexandria at Metairie Small Animal Hospital. “In dogs, lead poisoning causes vague symptoms, such as decreased appetite, vomiting, diarrhea and weight loss. With higher levels in the nervous system, seizures can occur,” he said. “In suspicious cases, we ask about any nearby house renovations. Dogs can also get lead poisoning from eating chews, toys, plumbing supplies, and even fishing tackle containing lead.” It is unlikely that our municipal water supply is associated with any real lead-related health risks for humans and pets. After I voiced this opinion last July as part of a weekly WVUE health segment, a representative of the city’s inspector general’s office called. She disagreed with my viewpoints on this matter, but vacation plans on my part postponed me hearing more from their perspective. The lingering presence of lead feeder lines in our water distribution system is, however, a marker of an infrastructure in distress. I do not believe our drinking water is at risk unless these pipes are disrupted by replacement or construction. The real lead epidemic in New Orleans involves lead bullets, not our water supply. •

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


THE beat . style

In the Spirit Our spooky style picks are all treats, no tricks for Halloween. By Mirella Cameran

Compression leggings, and sports bra with built-in shape-wear; King Cake Baby green glitter nail polish by Native – all from Angelique Stores, 891-8992, instagram/shopangeliqueboutique. Sheer, star patterned top from The Elizabeth Chronicles, Spider veil Halloween headband; lavender and sage scented soy from Fleurty Girl, 309-3944,

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


THE beat . chronicles

Cross Current When Ferries Were A Fleet by Carolyn Kolb


p until 1935’s Huey P. Long Bridge opening, there was no way to cross the Mississippi River near New Orleans, except by boat. From the earliest years of the city, boats were regularly available for hire to ferry passengers and freight across. In fact, part of the 1815 Battle of New Orleans involved getting reinforcements to Jackson’s force on the West Bank. According to Stanley C. Arthur’s 1915 book The Story of the Battle of New Orleans, troops were ordered “to hasten across the river by the ferry.” The first steam ferry was established in 1820, with a license given to a group including future Governor Pierre Derbigny, according to Joseph Dawson, III’s 1990 book The Louisiana Governors. Regular service from Canal Street to Algiers began circa 1827, according to websites,


O C TO B E R 2017

and, a service of U.N.O.’s Midlo Center for New Orleans Studies. Since that time, ferries have served the city well. Gospel singer Mahalia Jackson is rumored to have taken the long-closed Walnut Street ferry to Westwego to sing at her relatives’ church. The river ferry support structure can still be seen in Westwego at Sala Avenue, and Westwego has in recent years explored setting up a service across to Audubon Park at that spot. Another remnant of ferries past is Ferry Place, one block long, running from Willow to Plum Street uptown between General Ogden and Monticello Streets, marking an approach to the old Oak Street to Nine Mile Point ferry. As late as 1931, there were ferries at Kenner and Harahan, and seven ferries in New Orleans, plus two railroad ferries. The New

myne w

Orleans ferries were near Oak 1870, he bid on a ferry contract. He Street, Walnut Street, Napoleon won it, and soon began enlarging Avenue, Louisiana Avenue, his local ferry empire. Jackson Avenue, Canal Street Pickles improved the ferry landand Esplanade Avenue. ings, the passenger terminals, The number of New Orleans and the vessels. One catamaran ferries greatly increased toward (two hulled) ferry, built in 1892, the end of the nineteenth century, was named the Thomas Pickles. and that was due to one man: Although Pickles died in 1896, Thomas Pickles. Pickles and his namesake boat continued his wife, Ema, immiin service until it sank Thomas grated from England near the Gretna ferry Pickles could landing in 1965, to New Orleans in be called the “Ferry 1840. Pickles soon during Hurricane Godfather” of New began practicing Betsy. Orleans. His company, his profession Today, there are and namesake boat, kept cross-river only two ferries - pharmacy. By traffic going. the 1850s, he had a operating in this drugstore and, besides area: Canal Street to advertising a disinfectant Algiers, and lower Algiers and supplying that to the city on to Chalmette. Both still provide a monthly contract, he also began a pleasant river cruise. You could supplying oil for street lamps. even take the ferry to the Algiers Since his business was located Courthouse for your wedding – and near the riverfront, he became enjoy a honeymoon coming back! • familiar with shipping, and, by

photos Courtesy of The Historic New Orleans Collection

myne w orleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



The Killers


Purge the Surge And other calendar needs By Chris Rose


hese are messy times. But you don’t need me to tell you that. It seems like no one can get along. No one can agree on anything. We divide ourselves over every decision, conundrum and conflict. But I think, after the events of recent weeks, I can put forth an initiative that we can all agree on. At least all of us in south Louisiana. And it is this: Let’s change the calendar. Let us dispense with the date of August 29. Permanently. I realize this could pose a threat to the social and political order of the rest of country, particularly if they do not go along with this idea, but hear me out. To my knowledge, three of the last four major hurricanes to hit Louisiana, made landfall or its headway on August 29. Katrina, Gustav and Harvey. (And the other was Rita, which technically hit in September but which was basically 52

O C TO B E R 2017

just Katrina’s younger sister.) The only relief I can draw from this statistic is that every couple of years we don’t have to go through Katrina remembrances and memorials because we are running - or driving, I guess would be more accurate – for our lives again on that date. It is a date on the calendar that is messy, painful and a harbinger of dread. And yet, it’s when the storms keep coming. So think about it. What if we swapped out August with February. Give it 28 days only. And cancel Leap Year – or give February 32 days every four years. Anything but another August 29. No more flashbacks. No endless news cycle to haunt us. No communal PTSD. Just jump straight into September and get on with our lives. We could be relieved, as Franklin Roosevelt once said, of our day that will live in infamy. You have to admit: the idea

might be a little out of the box, but it certainly has some appeal. In an era in which we seem more inclined than ever to erase the past -- from Confederate monuments to civil rights advances -- why not erase August 29. Understand, I mean no disrespect to the victims or the survivors of victims from any of those significant storms. Obviously, we will never forget. We will never retreat. We will never surrender. But I cannot be the only person who really dreads that date on our calendar. We either relieve the pain or we experience a whole new portfolio of it. Now, meteorologically speaking (and I am no meteorologist, by any means) I suppose the obvious counter argument to this would be that now September 1 would just be the worst day of the year instead. And maybe that is so. In fact,

very likely so. But at least it would be a fresh slate. And then if Mother Nature refuses to cooperate, we can just start September on the 2nd. And so on. Watching all those images from Texas, and then Florida, just a few weeks ago (hell, even now still) was and is a jarring experience of déjà vu all over again. I wish our mayor and our city had been more aggressive in inviting Houstonians and East Texans in general to our city for relief. Remember, there was no city in this country that stepped up more, and suffered the consequences for, our communities’ devastation, than Houston. Remember the bumper stickers: “Thanks Houston!” We owe them. Big time. I have talked with friends about heading over there one of these weekends, or maybe even weeks, to try and help out and pay back what they did for us. I suppose I would need to do that sooner than later. While they are still mucking and tearing out sheetrock and carpets. Because one thing I have learned in this life about myself it is this: I am much better at destroying things than building them. I’ll knock it down. Someone handier than me can rebuild it. We must never forget what happened to us here 12 years ago, and we must never stop searching for ways to thank the people who saved us. We survived by the triumph of the human spirit. Not just our own, but that of those hundreds of thousands if not millions who came to our rescue in our time of need. So fetch your shrimp boots and go Oilers! Er, Texans, l mean. (I’m still not used to that name.) Except when you are playing the Saints of course. The state motto is “Don’t mess with Texas.” Well Texas is a mess. It’s our time now. • Jason Raish Illustration

m y neworleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


LOCAL COLOR . modine gunch

Mitch’s Fault Getting the wake-up call By Modine Gunch


y sister-in-law Gloriosa is pg again. She blames Mayor Mitch Landrieu. Not that he done the deed. But she says it’s his fault. I got to explain. Gloriosa controls her life with a iron fist. Her flowers bloom on schedule; her garden don’t dare sprout weeds; her canned goods are alphabetized, and her children, exactly one boy and one girl, were each born in April, when the weather would be perfect for their future birthday parties. Her family was complete. Even though she is saying that #3 will round off the family, whatever that means, everybody who knows Gloriosa realizes that this is a my-gawd-how-did-that-happen blessed event. I know how it happened. Remember back in August, when we had the flood, and then four days later, when things had started to dry out, everybody in New Orleans was catapulted out of bed at 3 a.m. because our phones was blaring like foghorns gone berzerk? I myself grabbed my cell phone


O C TO B E R 2017

and saw a message I couldn’t read, and when I snatched up my glasses, the message disappeared, so I was wide awake with my glasses on and my eyes bugging out. I looked out the window and saw no rain, no tornado, no flash flood, so I decided that it must be a boil-water advisory. I dumped out the water in the glass on my bedstand and poured me some wine instead and went back to sleep. I found out the next day, from a lot of grouchy people drinking a lot of coffee at CC’s, the message was from Mayor Landrieu, who acted out of “an abundance of caution.” It said, “S&W Board reported power outage causing lower pumping capacity for East Bank of New Orleans, west of industrial canal. In the event of rain, move cars to high ground and stay off roads…” So some pumps weren’t working. In New Orleans, we all know that if the pumps don’t work, we flood. But what we don’t know is which way is “west.” We

don’t use that kind of language here. We say “Uptown side.” Or “below.” Nothing complicated like “west.” But like I said, lots of us never read this message. My mother-inlaw Ms. Larda thought it was a very loud text. She had been dreaming about her old Uncle Fogarty in Texas, so she assumed he finally croaked. She immediately texted condolences to his wife, Mabel. Mabel woke up to the “ping” on the phone by her bed, looked at it, and texted back, “Fogarty alive and snoring.” Ms. Larda texted, “A miracle! Thank the Lord!” and went back to sleep. Mabel stayed awake. Meanwhile, my brothers-in-law Leech and Lurch, who live on the other side of Ms. Larda’s double, were sneaking in late. They lost their key, and were trying to climb in the window when the phone blared. They thought Ms. Larda had installed a burglar alarm, so they spent the night in their car. My friend Awlette had cleaned up floodwater inside her house,

and was sleeping in a bed raised up on cinder blocks, in case it happened again, when the message blasted her awake, and disappeared. She couldn’t decide whether to crawl under the bed, in case a Korean missile was coming, or climb in it, in case it was a flash flood. Finally she climbed back in and pulled the covers over her head. Gloriosa and her husband Proteus assumed it was the Koreans. Gloriosa then leapt to the conclusion that it was probably the end of the world. Proteus saw his chance, and told her if it was the end of the world, they might as well go out happy. So they got happy. And they did not use an abundance of caution. She ain’t had the test to see what sex the baby is, but if it’s a boy, her husband wants to name him Flash. Evidently Kim Jong Un is not an option Anyway, I got some advice for the new mayor: Don’t send no disappearing messages at 3 a.m. But if you do, tell us which way is west. •


m y neworleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7




hy do we live here if the taxes are high but the schools are crap? Why do we live here when crime is so bad I feel scared sometimes just taking the garbage to the curb at night? Why do we live here when an actual headline from the newspaper was: “Four vehicles were moved to avoid flooding; then they were stolen”? Why do we live here when we are holding our breath every year from June to November hoping the hurricane gods pass us by? And why on earth do we live here when the pumps don’t work and the officials lie and the city floods, ruining our property and inconveniencing us all?  I wrote this seven years ago, and it’s still true: I still remember that night late last year. It was mid-December, the night of New Orleans Magazine’s Best of Dining party at Muriel’s, and the Saints had just eked out a last-minute win against Atlanta, making them 13-0. My friend Vera and I were on top of the world as we drove to the party, and our collective jubilance was only enhanced when we found the perfect parking spot just a block from Jackson Square. She and I breezed into Muriel’s, helped ourselves to glasses of champagne and wandered out onto the balcony. The night was balmy, maybe in the low 60s, and fog was rising up around the banana trees. White Christmas lights were twinkling everywhere. “Seriously, Vera,” I said, raising my glass. “Why does anyone live anywhere else?” She shook her head, as mesmerized by the night as I was. “I have no idea,” she said, clinking her glass against mine. “I have no idea.” Not to take anything away from that night –– it was an amazing night, culminating in live jazz at 56

O C TO B E R 2017

time. But should anyone outside of the Kidd family say an unkind word about him, I am hugely offended. And it’s much the same way with New Orleans. I hate that the streets flood to the point that my car may be destroyed, but when my sensible Midwestern friends express chagrin over this fact, I get defensive. “Who cares if the stupid streets flood?” I think to myself. “Clearly they’ve never been here on a gorgeous December night when the fog is rising up around the banana trees in Jackson Square and white Christmas lights are twinkling everywhere and the Saints won’t stop winning football games. Why would anyone ever want to live anywhere else?” And my love affair with the city begins all over again. Now, seven years later, the problems are more or less the same, but I see the city more as a child than a drunk uncle. Sometimes it’s inconvenient. Sometimes it’s messy. Sometimes Our flawed, beautiful, broken, wonderful city I’m proud of it. Sometimes I’m embarrassed by it. By Eve Crawford Peyton When the lights went out in the Superdome during Super Bowl XLVII, I felt exactly the same way Fritzel’s at around 1 a.m. –– but it to the shop. yesterday morning, when I went to I was briefly bitter about the I did when Ruby forgot a line get in my car after a heavy summer whole thing. “Why the hell do I during the school talent show rain and the floor mat squished live here? This city is such a mess. and froze on stage. But my kids are what they beneath my feet, I knew why at What a pain in the ass.” And so least some people, practical people, on. But then, when I was telling are. New Orleans is what it is. I people who don’t like living in a my friend in Omaha, can expect better from them when they let me city that’s prone to flooding with Neb., about the situpumps and drains that are prone ation, she said, “God, Excerpted from Eve down; I can hold them to not functioning, don’t feel a how can you stand it to higher standards and Crawford Peyton’s blog, Joie d’Eve, burning desire to live here. there?” And I got mad demand accountability. which appears It remains to be seen if my at her. But I also have to accept each Friday on car will have lasting mechanical I have a beloved certain things that are damage, but I know for a fact but dysfunctionally never going to change. that the upholstery is ruined. alcoholic uncle who has, among And I’m not about to move any And instead of my usual pleasant other things, drunkenly ridden more than I’d disown my kids. morning routine of iced coffee and his moped into a satellite dish Why do I live here? The answer e-mail, I spent the morning pulling –– the old-school huge ones –– is honestly not that complex at about 70 pounds of sodden books, and gotten his pants cut off in all. It’s ridiculously simple. toys, clothes and disintegrating a bar fight. I make fun of Uncle I live here because it’s home. • Cheetos out of my car and taking Chippee, as he’s known, all the

Imperfect Home

jane sanders illustration

m y neworleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


LOCAL COLOR . in tune

calendar must-see music

October 4 The folk trio Joseph will be at Tipitina’s

October 6 Avant garde bassist Thundercat at Tipitina’s

Foo Fighters

Two Festivals to Watch Voodoo and Ponderosa By Mike Griffith

Voodoo Fest

scene and have had a triumphant summer on the festival circuit. We’ll have an interview with them closer to the festival. Voodoo Fest takes place Oct 27-29 at the City Park Festival Grounds

October in New Orleans means the return of Voodoo Fest to City Park. As usual, the organizers have done a great job with Kendrick Lamar, Foo Fighters, The Killers and LCD Soundsystem sitting in the headlining spots. Kendrick Lamar is touring on his recent Ponderosa Stomp seminal release Damn. This record is insanely good and Lamar is known for his high intensity live sets. If you’re looking for something a bit more classic, This performance will make the weekend by itself. the Ponderosa Stomp comes to the Orpheum Theater For their part, LCD Soundsystem not just reunited October 5-7. This festival is a celebration of the but have released a new record this year. Dave Grohl unsung heroes of southern music with a focus on and company in the Foo Fighters continue to deliver blues, jazz and swamp music of all stripes. If it is legendary sets and are celebrating a new played in the south it is represented at The record as well. In addition to the strong Stomp. The festival is paired with a music Playlist of crop of headliners, Voodoo has a deep list history conference at the Ace Hotel. Taken mentioned of up and coming acts joining the festival together these events turn the first week of bands available this year as well. Andrew McMahon in the October into a music lover’s dream. This year at: Wilderness, Whitney, Strand of Oaks and you can catch performances by Billy Swan, InTune10-17 Mondo Cozmo will all deliver sets over the Wendy Rene, Lil Buck Sinegal and many, course of the festival. Keep a particular eye on the many more. Part of the fun of The Stomp is learning Chicago based indie folk ensemble Whitney. This the deep history behind performers you might not group has been getting a lot of attention around the have otherwise known much less seen live. •


O C TO B E R 2017

October 12 British indie rockers Glass Animals at Mardi Gras World

October 13 Alt hip-hop impresarios Run the Jewels at Joy Theater

October 14 The Canadian dream pop of Alvvays at One Eyed Jacks

October 17 Alt rock legends Spoon House of Blues

Dates are subject to change; email Mike@ MyNewOrleans. com or contact him through Twitter @Minima.

m y neworleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


LOCAL COLOR . book reviews

All Dat New Orleans by Michael Murphy Just in time for New Orleans’ 300th birthday, New Orleans author Michael Murphy explores the sights, sounds and spices of the city. Murphy, who fell in love with New Orleans after a series of vacations, moved here from New York in 2009. His unique insider-outsider take on all that the city has to offer will guide visitors and staycationers alike to the best fests, music, food, shopping, celebrating and more. Important lessons for visitors include: how to pronounce Tchoupitoulas, the difference between Cajun and Creole, and the meaning of “open carry” (booze not bullets) and go-cups. Locals may enjoy reading profiles of New Orleans neighbors like Sidney Smith, founder of the Haunted History Tours; writer and author Bunny Matthews; and vegetable entrepreneur Arthur Robinson, a.k.a. Mr. Okra.

The Other Girl by Erica Spindler

FANtastic Saints by Ron Calamia

New York Times bestselling author and, maybe more importantly, UNO graduate, Erica Spindler’s latest thriller involves two very different murders with one thing in common: small town detective Miranda Rader. As the detective’s shady past comes back to haunt her, will she be able to track down the murderer before she herself becomes unraveled? An edge-ofthe-seat page-turner at its best.

Photographer Ron Calamia captures the “Who Dat” spirit with a portrait gallery of some of the Saints’ most recognizable, rambunctious and rowdy fans. Dressed to the nines, for Number 9, in their Saints garb and costume get-ups, Calamia pays tribute to more than 45 super fans who want to be in that number, win or lose (but really win). Published locally, the book is available at the Garden District Bookstore, the Who Dat Shoppe in Slidell or online at FantasticSaints. com. Who dat!

By Ashley McLellan, Please send submissions for consideration, attention: Ashley McLellan, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005

H = Did not finish


O C TO B E R 2017

HH = Sort of ok, but kind of meh

HHH = Enjoyable HHHH = Really, really liked it HHHHH = Loved it; a new favorite!

m y neworleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


LOCAL COLOR . jazz life

“Party Town” off the recent Peace, Love & BBQ cd.

Making Music Bounce Marcia Ball takes Santa Fe by storm By Jason Berry


s New Orleans reeled from the August floods, the distant mountain city of Santa Fe, New Mexico, was serene with blue skies, cool nights and the plaza near the Cathedral, not unlike Jackson Square, held a magnet for the people with a concert stage for musicians. The crowd was thick when Marcia Ball, the rhythm-andblues chanteuse, poised at her seat behind the keyboard, got the masses moving with a rippling tempo on “Right Tool For the Job,” and witty double-entendre lyrics about whether big boy has the equipment it takes to satisfy some kind of woman. My, my, my, the people loved it. Marcia Ball grew up in the small town of Vinton, Louisiana, 62

O C TO B E R 2017

west of Lake Charles, just shy of the Texas border. A Cajun swing sound echoes in her song bag. That said, Marcia Ball, long based in Austin, is best known for a magical pulse that extends the long line of New Orleans R&B piano singers - Professor Longhair, Allen Toussaint, Dr. John, Art Neville, James Booker, Huey “Piano” Smith and such latter day lights as Harry Connick, Jr., Jon Cleary, Davell Crawford, David Torkanowsky and the ever-soaring Tom McDermott. Am I missing another woman in this vibrant lineage? Dancing is the heart’s blood of a tradition that takes the rhythms of the streets - as Fess did in “Go To The Mardi Gras,” or Artie in his take on “Iko Iko,” an Indian tune on The Wild Tchoupitoulas – and

channels the cross-current of feet on the street into a keyboard stride that roams while yielding space for horns as in a vocal chorus, and the rocking backbeat on drums. The taproot is a second line sound, a parade beat, but it’s only as rich as the imagination of a given lyricist. There is a more delicate side to the tradition, as Toussaint furnished in moody waltzes like “With You in Mind,” among many one could name. One feat for an artist seeking a place in the tradition is to show the chops to do justice to core songs, like “Tipitina.” But the larger challenge in this line of singing piano players is how to rework pieces of the tradition into something new. You can rock on past midnight to Ball’s high-kicking

There’s dancing in the street There’s magic in the air Everybody’s having fun Just when you think the party’s over Another’s one just begun In New Orleans, oh New Orleans, That’s where I want to be The poetry in another one, “Down in the Neigborhood,” is more universal, yet a sonorous echo of Vinton - or Bywater, New Orleans. I found just the other day You been cheating While I looked the other way I been trusting You been up to no good You can’t have any secrets Down in the neighborhood. In Santa Fe she had the crowd in her hand, ranging along through numbers old and new; she stopped, with a lowered octave to shift the mood. “We’re thinking about New Orleans, again, what people are going through” – cataclysmic rains, a haunting Katrina refrain. Then she sang Randy Newman’s flood song, “Louisiana 1927” with a catch in her voice to match the moment. •


Well Schooled Former school transforms into a chic condo By Lee Cutrone


ach day, while sitting in the carpool line for her daughter’s school, Pam Dongieux admired a large, two-story brick structure with a modern industrial feel, unlike the traditional homes that surround it. Built in the 1930s as a part of the Soule secretarial trade school that also occupied the historic antebellum home next door on Jackson Avenue, it had huge windows, a lush side yard and a brick privacy wall with an intriguing entrance gate. The previous owners, an artist and his wife, used the upstairs as living quarters and the ground level as his art studio. Dongieux mused about turning the then-vacant building into a condo 64

O C TO B E R 2017

duplex with separate living spaces for her family (including three kids ages, ages 11, 14 and 19, and three dogs) and her mother. In 2012, she purchased the property and spent a year and a half transforming it into an elegant urban showplace. “I had sold the house I’d previously remodeled and thought ideally my mom would find a place with me,” says Dongieux, who loved the size, abundant natural light and privacy that the school-turned residence offered. “I looked at this and considered making a home for her downstairs.” The plan called for gutting the space, which has just under 10,000 square feet. Partitions, used to delin-

eate the loft-style living quarters were removed, and Dongieux and her then-husband, Duke Dongieux, configured a new floorplan that includes living and dining spaces, a den, a bar, a large kitchen, four bedrooms, three and a half baths and an art studio for their oldest son. The main portion of the ground level was turned into a spacious condominium for Pam’s mother, and the rear of the ground floor into a one-bedroom apartment. Having renovated other homes together, the Dongieuxs had worked closely with architects and designers before. This time, they enlisted the help of renovation expert Michael Carbine, Will Ericson of Yazoo

Above: The large, rectangular room overlooking the street is used for both living and dining; a marble fireplace added during the renovation delineates the various areas; as elsewhere in the home, antique chandeliers light the space; antique sofas on far ends of room from Karla Katz Antiques; the grand piano belonged to Dongieux’ parents.

Greg Miles photographs

Left: The dining table is from Uptowner Antiques, chandelier from Empire Antiques and sideboard from Wirthmore Antiques. Top, right: Landscaper Greg Porter renewed the side garden with flowering shrubs, fruit trees, potted plants and other greenery. Middle, right: The two-story building was originally part of the Soule Secretarial School. Bottom: Homeowner Pam Dongieux

Facing page: Top, left: The cozy family room has a vaulted wood ceiling; chairs and sofa from Villa Vici. Top, right: The kitchen was designed with Cabinets by Design. Bottom, left: Mirrored panels on the lower half of the windows provide privacy in the master bath. Bottom, right: Dongieux took the idea of the built-in bar from one her previous homes; artist Gretchen Howard painted the bar a rich red trimmed with gold. Left: The hall is treated like a living space, with seating and a glamorous built-in bar. Right: Dongieux turned a sunny room near the entrance of the condo into an art studio for her oldest son.

Restorations, interior designer Ann Villere, and landscapers Greg Porter and Tucker Fitzhugh. The couple brought to the table things they knew they loved (ebony wood floors and a full bar, like those they’d had in other houses) and cherished things they already owned. Since the space was a downsize from their previous house, they were able to fill it with furnishings, antique chandeliers and art from the larger home and required only a few new purchases. They also used the renovation as a laboratory for trying out new ideas. The striking master bath was a collaboration of ideas from both Dongieuxs. He suggested the warm cypress paneling; she suggested the marble mosaic floor and the mirrored privacy paneling that covers the bottom half of the windows. The gleaming side hall that runs

through the residence is treated like living space with seating and a glamourous built-in bar. At the end of the hall, a rectangular room with soaring arched windows overlooking the street is used as the formal living and dining areas. The open flow and multiple seating arrangements of the large living/dining space work well for entertaining, which Dongieux does often for local organizations and family get-togethers, while the close proximity of the kitchen is suited to catering and bar services. On the opposite end of the condo, a cozy family room, centrally located between the bedrooms, offers a respite from the home’s windows and a quiet place to lounge or watch TV. A florist by profession, Dongieux loves color and indulges her passion in a variety of ways, including

painted finishes, fabrics, tiles and paintings, which she’s collected for two decades. She’s especially fond of finding emerging artists at art school sales and of paintings of local scenes. “Color makes a room interesting,” she says. “I think all colors and patterns can work together.” Outside, Dongieux had the shaded side garden, patio and existing cocktail pool refurbished with citrus trees, camellias, philodendron, hydrangea, elephant ear and other greenery and flowers, making it one of her favorite places to spend time. “I’m so grateful that my family, my biggest supporters, were on board with me to do this project,” she says. “I love that I can be there for my mother and still have my own place.” •

m y neworleans . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7


Q The

New Orleans! Merely mentioning the city’s name conjures up cast iron-laced romantic images of a Gallic-Hispanic and Caribbean city on the southern edge of a predominantly Anglo North American culture. Famed New York journalist A. J. Liebling once described New Orleans as the northern most Caribbean city, a cross between Port-au-Prince, Haiti, and Paterson, New Jersey. He was right. New Orleans was founded by the French, later ruled by the Spanish, regained by Napoleon, and sold to the United States. For three centuries, it has survived epidemics, wars, economic depressions, hurricanes, floods, the American and French revolutions, Civil War and Reconstruction, riots and oppression, political corruption and intrigue, crime, and, finally, Americanization. New Orleans ranks among the most multi-cultural cities in the nation. Its earliest populations consisted of lesser French and Spanish gentry, criminals, soldiers, debtors, tradesmen, merchants, prostitutes, priests and nuns, German and French farmers, Acadian exiles, Canary Islanders, Native Americans, Africans, Englishmen, Irish, even more Germans, and Anglo-Americans from the British colonies and later American states along the Atlantic seaboard. Then came the Sicilians, Greeks, Eastern Europeans, Cubans, Indians, Pakistanis, Middle Easterners, Central Americans, Chinese, Vietnamese and others from every corner of the Earth. How did all of this get started? On the eve of the city’s tricentennial celebrations, New Orleanians with a bit more knowledge of the city’s beginnings will fare far better at parties if they can offer up a few facts about early New Orleans. Answer these basic questions and impress everyone. Don’t panic. We give you the answers.


K n ow Your T ricen ten n ial New Orleans 1718-2018

By John R. Kemp

photographs courtesy of the historic new orleans collection



There’s a place down river from New Orleans called English Turn. Other than a beautiful golf course, what’s that all about? A few months after the French arrived in 1699, Bienville was off exploring the river just below present day New Orleans when he came upon a British ship. Bienville told the captain to leave or face a French fleet just up river. The captain left but threatened to return with more war ships. To this day, that spot on the river is called English Turn. The French wasted little time in building posts along the Mississippi and Gulf Coast, including what is today Mobile, Alabama, and Biloxi, Mississippi. (photo of Bienville on previous page)


Why was New Orleans sold to the United States? In 1800 Napoleon forced Spain to return Louisiana. The news didn’t sit well with President Thomas Jefferson, who feared war with France was inevitable. He also wanted free navigation of the Mississippi from the Ohio and Illinois territory to the river’s mouth. To solve both problems, he offered to buy New Orleans and a portion of West Florida bordering the Mississippi River, including Baton Rouge. This would put the entire east bank of the river in American hands. Napoleon had a better deal in mind. Having failed to defeat the rebels in Haiti and needing money to fight Great Britain, Napoleon decided in early 1803 to sell the Americans all of Louisiana, including New Orleans, from the mouth of the Mississippi north to Canada and west to the Rocky Mountains.



What Native Tribes lived in the New Orleans area before the arrival of Europeans? The Bayagoulas lived just upriver below today’s Baton Rouge. The Chitimacha and Houmas tribes also lived in the region and the Acolapissas along the Pearl River. To the east along the Gulf Coast were the Biloxi Indians.




Tribes living up and down the river had various names for it, including the “MissiSipy,” “Michisipy,” “Mississippi,” “Malybanchia” and “Malabouchia.” The first Spanish explorers called it the “Rio Del Espiritu Santo.”

In the early 1690s, France wanted to protect and expand its colonial possessions and to block the British moving west from the Atlantic seaboard. In September 1698, the crown dispatched Canadians Pierre Le Moyne, Sieur d’Iberville, with his younger brother, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de Bienville, and five small ships. After a brief encounter with the Spanish in Pensacola, the expedition dropped anchor near the mouth of the Mississippi on March 3, 1699. It was Mardi Gras and New Orleanians have been celebrating ever since.

The Bayagoulas Indians, and later Choctaws, and Germans who settled upriver in the 1720s provided New Orleanians with fresh food. In the very early years, local Indian tribes saved French colonists from starvation and acted as guides into the back wilderness.


How did the Mississippi River get its name?


Why did France establish a colony in Louisiana and who was sent to plant the flag?


What role did Germans and Native Americans play in the early days of New Orleans?



What did early New Orleans look like in the 1720s? Pauger’s 1721 plan called for New Orleans to be laid out in a grid around a parade ground called the Place d’Armes (now Jackson Square). Behind the square was space for the parish church. In the early 1720s, carpenters, soldiers and African slaves built sturdier houses and buildings with a “bousillage” of clay and moss stuffed between framed timbers. The exteriors were covered with wide clapboards. After the first brick kiln was built in 1724, bricks-between-posts replaced the clay and moss. In 1728, a young Ursuline nun described New Orleans in a letter to her father in France: “Our city is very pretty, well constructed and regularly built. The people have worked and still work to perfect it. The streets are very wide and are laid out in straight lines . . . .The houses are very well built of ‘collombage et mortier.’ They are white washed, paneled and filled with sunlight. The roofs of the houses are covered with tiles which are pieces of wood in the shape of slate . . . . It suffices to say that there is a song sung openly here in which the words proclaim that this city is as beautiful as Paris.”



Why was New Orleans placed on a muddy crescent in the Mississippi? Bienville chose to establish New Orleans on a low-lying, flood-prone bend in the river. The site had its advantages. It was close to the mouth of the Mississippi and Bayou St. John, which provided easy access to Lake Pontchartrain and the Gulf Coast. Company officials, however, wanted to plant the city farther up river where Bayou Manchac entered the Mississippi just below today’s Baton Rouge. Defying company orders, Bienville built the settlement where it now stands. Apparently, Bienville did what he wanted to do and sought permission later.


John Law was an important figure in the settlement of the River Parishes and New Orleans, but who was he? In 1712 French officials granted the wealthy Frenchman Antoine Crozat an exclusive charter to develop the Louisiana colony. After five years of losing money, the Duc d’Orléans, then regent for the young Louis XV, relieved Crozat of his burden. Along came Scotsman John Law, who had formed the “Banque Générale” of France in 1716. The industrious Scot convinced the duke that Louisiana had potential for great wealth. In 1717 Law formed the Company of the West as a joint stock company and sold shares to finance his Louisiana scheme. Two years later, he reorganized his holdings as the Company of the Indies. With his charter, Law sent hundreds of settlers and African slaves to Louisiana. To encourage farmers to move to Louisiana, Law inundated southern Germany, Switzerland and France with handbills, promising free land. Thousands took him up on the offer and settled the “Côte des Allemands,” the German Coast, in today’s River Parishes. For a brief time, convicts and prostitutes were given their freedom if they married and settled in Louisiana. Another group, the “Casket girls,” so called for the government-issued chest of clothes and linen, also went to Louisiana to marry local men. By the early 1720s, Law’s so-called “Mississippi Bubble” was in deep trouble. He barely escaped Paris alive. In 1731 the reorganized company petitioned the crown to take back the colony. Historian Lawrence Powell describes Law’s adventure as a “Ponzi scheme of mind-boggling proportions.” Though a financial failure, the company firmly established the Louisiana colony, including New Orleans.



After Bienville chased off the British, Iberville erected Fort de Mississippi or Fort de la Boulaye, near the mouth of the river in 1699. It was abandoned by 1707.

The first Africans arrived in the colony as slaves between 1719 and 1721.


What was the name of the first French settlement near the mouth of the Mississippi?


Much has been said about the first Europeans to settle in New Orleans, but when did the first Africans arrive?




The French engineer Adrien De Pauger, who arrived in the colony in 1721, designed the first church facing the Place d’Armes (Jackson Square) and dedicated it to Louis IX, the saint King of France. On March 21, 1788, a fire destroyed the original church and much of the city. Rebuilding soon began, thanks to a sizable gift from benefactor Don Andres Almonester y Roxas. Designed by colonial architect Gilberto Guillemard, officials dedicated the new church – now St. Louis Cathedral – on Christmas Eve 1794. By the 1840s, the building was in bad shape and too small for its growing congregation. Between 1849 and 1851, the cathedral – the one we now see – underwent a major facelift and expansion under the direction of New Orleans architect J.N.B De Pouilly.

Both were designed by Gilberto Guillemard and constructed mostly during the Spanish era. The Cabildo, named for the Spanish council that met there, was built between 1795 and 1799 after the Great Fire of 1788. The fashionable Mansard roof was added in 1847. One of the most important events in the city’s history took place in the Cabildo’s second floor “Sala Capitular.” It was there that the Louisiana Purchase transfer ceremony took place in 1803. The Presbytère was originally meant to be a residence for the Capuchin monks. By 1798 only the first floor had been completed. The second floor was added in 1813 and, like the Cabildo, the Mansard roof in 1847. Despite its name, the Presbytère was never used as a clerical residence. Both buildings are now part of the Louisiana State Museum

They didn’t. Laid out in the 1720s as the Place d’Armes, the public square was a popular place where people met, public executions took place and the militia drilled. In the 1850s, the city renamed it Jackson Square in honor of Andrew Jackson, the hero of the Battle of New Orleans and president of the United States. Jackson’s statue is one of three designed in 1856 by Clark Mills. The second one stands in Lafayette Park in front of the White House in Washington, D.C., and the third in Nashville, Tennessee, Jackson’s hometown.


When was St. Louis Cathedral built?


How old are the Cabildo and Presbytère?


Why would the French name Jackson Square for Andrew Jackson, the seventh president and hero of the Battle of New Orleans?



When was New Orleans founded and how did it get its name? An exact day for the founding of the city remains illusive, though Wikipedia gives the undocumented and often quoted date of May 7, 1718. Most historians agree, however, that Bienville and his men began clearing the land between mid-March and mid-April 1718. By the end of May, they had thrown up a few small palmetto huts. In naming the city, company officials chose “La Nouvelle Orléans” for Philippe, Duc d’Orléans, with street names to honor members of the royal family, their ancestors, patron saints, cousins, and major stockholders. As a result, French Quarter streets now bear pedigrees such as St. Ann, St. Louis, Royal, Bourbon, Chartres, Conti, Dauphine, Burgundy, Du Maine, Orleans, and Bourbon (the royal family, not the whiskey). In 1719 a flood wiped out all that stood. Little progress was made until March 1721 with the arrival of French engineer Adrien de Pauger who was sent to oversee construction. That same year the company moved the capital from Biloxi to New Orleans. The following year another hurricane struck, and in 1727 the Ursuline nuns arrived. The city’s destiny, despite its miserable start, was not lost on a French Canadian priest who visited the village in 1721: “I have the best grounded hopes for saying that this wild and deserted place, at present almost entirely covered with canes and trees shall one day . . . become the capital of a large and rich colony. . . . Rome and Paris had not such considerable beginnings.”


How did Lakes Pontchartrain and Maurepas get their names? In 1699 Iberville named the larger of the two lakes for France’s Minister of Marine, Jérôme Phélypeaux, Comte de Pontchartrain, and the smaller body of water for his son, the Comte de Maurepas.

17 .

Who gave Louisiana its name? Europeans had known about the Mississippi as early as the 1500s, thanks to Spanish explorers who traveled through the region but moved on. In 1682 the French Canadian Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, became the first known European to descend the Mississippi to its mouth and claim the region for King Louis XIV of France – hence “La Louisiane,” or Louisiana. La Salle failed to establish a colony and was assassinated by his own men on a later expedition. Actual colonization was left to two other French Canadians.



Is the architecture in the French Quarter today really French?


How did New Orleans end up in Spanish hands? During the 17th and 18th centuries England, France and Spain competed for dominance in North America. In 1754 war broke out in North America and quickly spread to Europe. Called the French and Indian War in the British American colonies and the Seven Years War in Europe, the British defeated France and Spain in 1763. In the resulting treaty, France ceded to England all of Canada and French territory east of the Mississippi River, keeping two small islands in the St. Lawrence Seaway. Spain lost Florida to England. New Orleans and Louisiana west of the Mississippi, however, were not included in the package. In 1762, Louis XV convinced his cousin, King Carlos III of Spain, to enter the war. In appreciation, Louis gave him New Orleans and Louisiana west of the river.

No. Most buildings in the French Quarter date from the 19th and early 20th centuries with a few from the late 18th century Spanish era. Devastating fires in the 1780s and 1790s destroyed most of the city’s French colonial architecture. The only building remaining from French days is the former Ursuline Convent on Chartres Street, completed in the early 1750s. Another colonial building is Madame John’s Legacy, which derives its name from New Orleans-native George Washington Cable’s 1874 fictional short story “Tite Poulette.” Constructed in approximately 1788, Madame John’s is a rare example of the city’s 18thcentury raised and galleried Creole colonial house.

That ends our tricentennial quiz. You probably know the rest. After the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 came the slow Americanization of New Orleans, the Battle of New Orleans, Civil War and Reconstruction, the Gilded Age and Storyville, all that took place in the 20th and now 21st centuries, Hurricane Katrina, and finally the most unexpected historical event of all – the New Orleans Saints won Super Bowl XLIV in 2010.

Last Days Of Storyville Shutting down “The District” a century ago was no easy trick b y s a l ly a s h e r

From 1897 to 1917, Ordinance No. 13032 established 16 square blocks in New Orleans for “lewd women” to ply their vocation. The area featured the most ornate mansions and ramshackle lean-tos and was called “the district,” “red-light district,” “Tenderloin,” or “Storyville.” The latter was a backhanded compliment to Alderman Sidney Story who introduced the ordinance, claiming it served three purposes. One, the city reclaimed valuable commercial property and received taxes for its true value. Second, it removed “temptation and open insult from the path” of the city’s respectable females. Third, it protected the prostitutes from persecution and violence. Story admitted that calling the district Storyville was a “pseudo-compliment” and was initially touchy about it, but grew to see it as a “reward” for his efforts to better New Orleans. Story’s purposes, however benevolent, had the exact opposite effect due to greedy landlords, violent underworld figures and spectacularly corrupt police and city officials.

New Orleans photographer E. J. Bellocq took this photograph of a prostitute in Storyville around 1912. Photograph by E.J. Bellocq Š Lee Friedlander, courtesy Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco

The Miser King And Mother Beer Rents in Storyville were exorbitant. Houses and businesses that once rented for $8 to $10 a month went for $100 to $150 a month once the ordinance went into effect. Many rented on a nightly basis in a system known as “Jackal Landlordism,” when property owners, for example, portioned off a sixroom house into three “cribs” or “huts” rented nightly (in advance) for $3 to $4. The king of the jackals was Ike Herdman, the “Miser King of the Tenderloin.” Herdman, originally from Russia, had abandoned his family 35 years earlier and come to the U.S. Finding his way to New Orleans, he worked as a glazier, saved his money, and bought property in Storyville, unconcerned about the moral stain. At the time of his death in 1916, Herdman owned over two dozen properties. His Storyville properties alone cost about $60,000 and had yearly rental income of $27,000. Assessors records were an easy way to keep business owners honest as newspapers published lists of Storyville property owners. Those who wished to profit from prostitution but were concerned about their social standing continued operating brothels outside of Storyville in what was the city’s worst-kept secret. Upon Storyville’s opening, the TimesPicayune believed that suddenly ejecting lewd women from their residences and corralling them within a regulated district was not enough. Their presence around the city created a moral virus. The Picayune believed any former brothel outside of Storyville needed to be purified by tearing it down and building factories and businesses in their place. But many illegal brothels remained; their owners couldn’t see the purpose in paying higher rents and openly operating under a scarlet drapery. Their regular customers were grateful, wishing to maintain a hypocritical discretion and keep their vice palaces lit by genteel soft white lights – not red. The newspapers continually blasted the police department for ignoring the illegal brothels. In 1902, Mrs. Mary Pullen was arrested for operating an illegal brothel on Elks Place. Numerous neighbors complained but Pullen was found not guilty, primarily thanks to police incompetence, not her innocence. This evoked a closer investigation. For weeks after the Pullen verdict, various illegal brothels (most operated by married women) were exposed. One of the most habitual offenders of operating outside of Storyville was Anna “Mother” Beer, a widow

in her 60s, who resided on St. Louis Street. The city directory listed her as renting furnished rooms but she furnished much more. Beer specialized in a particular commodity – shop girls. Her male clients picked out shop girls they liked and Beer invited them to a supper party at her house. There, she would either bribe or threaten them with the loss of their reputations if they did not acquiesce. Newspapers constantly ran addresses of illegal brothels throughout the city, calling for their closure. Still, most were tenderhearted about the fate of the women living in them. In 1917, Commissioner of Public Safety Harold Newman enacted a massive city-wide “cleanup campaign” shutting down over 60 illegal brothels from City Park to the fashionable Octavia Street. As a result, 300 women found themselves out of work with no welcome in respectable neighborhoods and no room in Storyville. Only two houses in the district were for rent – at the inflated price of $150 a month. Just weeks earlier, the mugshots are of prostitutes Newman had banned the who were arrested. The crib system, ordering that middle is Alice women had to live in the Monahan - the first female police houses they used instead of officer in NOLA and who was assigned renting them nightly. Days to Storyville. after their eviction, nearly two dozen women, many young and from the district, begged between Lee Circle and Poydras Street. Even the staunchest reformers were sickened by the prostitutes’ sudden eviction with no provision made for their well-being. Prostitutes weren’t welcome in respectable neighborhoods but most believed they needed to be welcomed somewhere, and Storyville was at full capacity. Sisters Of Storyville Instead of removing prurient temptation (Story’s second purpose), it only created more. Dance halls and cabarets sprang up in and around Storyville, and as such so did varied employment opportunities for women. Dance hall girls were paid to dance with men, and table girls solicited drinks from men in cabarets. Superintendent Frank T. Mooney described a cabaret as “an establishment where there is music, singing and dancing, and which is frequented by men and women of questionable character.” A strict caste system existed: prostitutes and table girls mingled with each other, but they never associated with dance hall girls – they were considered the lowest of the low. Table girls worked primarily on commission. Drinks ranged from 15 to 20 cents; most girls had to sell over 100 drinks a night before they

Basin Street, received their split. A good table girl earned $15 to $25 their only “accessory” being the dirt underneath their fingers. postcard, 1910-1917. dollars nightly. Considering prostitutes’ prices ranged from Madams Josie Arlington, Annie Decker, Press Meyers, and Courtesy of the New Orleans Jazz Belle Maynard felt so at home that they sent their coachmen change to five dollars a trick, it was a substantial income Club Collections of the Louisiana State with fewer stigmas. Many prostitutes excelled by being out for champagne, drinking heavily from the front row of Museum blunt, standing half-naked in doorways or forcefully grabbing the spectators’ area. Despite testimony from other officers men, but table girls required more subtlety and surreptitiousness. and male saloonkeepers, the police commissioners believed the While prostitution was considered a “necessary evil,” b-drinking prostitutes, and the officers were dismissed from the force. was not and their jobs were continually threatened by reform waves. Prostitutes were labeled as shameless and vile outcasts, but preying One table girl interviewed by the Item after another attempt to ban on them, be it by police officer or pimp, was the lowest thing a man them said, “You think it is pretty low in weaning a dollar bill out of could do. John Journee was the police inspector from 1901 to 1905 some fellow who thinks he knows it all, and treats you like a dog. before he was dismissed amidst charges of incompetency. The DailyYou think it’s pretty mean to fix a college boy’s tie, or his scarf pin Picayune revealed that the workings of the police force “shocked so he will spend another fifty cents. Maybe it is all that… But what even men who thought they knew all about the dark and devious we get don’t pay us for the stabs at the heart we get, the beasts we methods of the half-world. It revealed a condition of affairs in this meet. And the money comes to use cleaner than it does to a lot of city,” the newspaper said, “which should bring the blush of shame people in this town who bark at us a lot.” While table girls weren’t to every man.” The depraved details, the newspaper claimed, were the scarlet women prostitutes were, they existed in grey shades, in a unfit for publication. It was charged that under Journee’s tenure an intricate “pimps culture that valued the purity of white. and procurers club” existed. The club held weekly meetings and had official officers and members. Sam Felix, (“Boss P[pimp]”), was its The Boss Pimp And The $6,000 Inspector Police and prostitutes had been intertwined in New Orleans for years. leader and ruled with an “iron hand”; a hand he used against women, Before his assassination in 1890, chief of police David Hennessy was many of whom were illiterate and/or under-aged, brought from the a member of the Red Light Social Club, an organization that threw East Coast under false pretenses of respectable work. Pimps paid carnival balls complete with prostitutes. But not all associations $20 a month to a police captain and a sergeant and $10 a month to a were friendly. New Orleans’ police were drastically underpaid and corporal and the patrolmen in the Tenderloin to give them protection many supplemented their incomes via prostitutes. In 1893, several and immunity from arrest. officers were charged with arresting 21 women who failed to pay their Merchants who lived in the district also had to join the club. Ike blackmail. Over 100 prostitutes gathered at City Hall to testify and Schimsky, who owned a grocery store and primarily sold to prostitutes, support each other. They represented the range of the demimonde: was told that if he wanted to continue he had to become a “member” some dressed in silk and satin with diamonds and jewels wedged and pay $1 a week. Schimsky eventually became treasurer and collected on their fingers and nestled in their cleavage, others dressed in rags, a $1 a week from at least fifty other members. The money went to

pay members’ arrest fines and engage defense lawyers. Felix’s “law” demanded that every woman had a member of his pimp club who was her Fides Achates – faithful protector. Prostitutes were ordered to beat women who refused to pay for the pimps’ protection. But who’d protect these women from their barbaric protectors? One of the reasons for Journee’s dismissal was he was viewed as respectable but with absolutely no control over the police force; many took money from pimps to look the other way. Enter Judge Whitaker. After Whitaker’s appointment to police chief, he vowed “kind treatment” for women of the Tenderloin but this quickly proved false. He earned the nickname “the $6,000 Inspector” for spending 1/3 of his time at the racetrack while collecting a $6,000 annual salary. As Chief of Police, Whitaker apparently could not police himself. His order of a census of Storyville in 1906 was met with outrage. By early 1917, it appeared that Story’s three purposes were all failing miserably. Still, Mayor Martin Behrman was determined to hold onto Storyville. After Newman attempted to crack down on liquor laws, eliminate the cribs, close illegal brothels, he enacted his “third step” in cleaning up the restricted district – segregating it.

Many wishing for the segregation of Storyville shot themselves in the foot. In the spring of 1917, the Negro Women’s Christian Temperance Union argued that the Fisk School was now in the new “Black Storyville.” Louis Armstrong, who attended the school, stated that Fisk was located “in the heart of it all,” meaning in the middle of saloons, cabarets, and prostitution. The school had been a source of complaints for years and in August 1917, the board of school directors ruled that McDonogh 13, which had been an all-white school for more thirty-five years, would be converted into a black school at the start of the school year. White parents were outraged. More than 500 parents and neighborhood property owners signed a petition against the change. Hundreds of parents and “lusty-lunged” children protested at the school board meeting but to no avail. The board had already decided to create a black high school and did not have the funds to do so – moving the children to McDonogh No. 13 solved both problems. The school was renamed McDonogh No. 35, becoming the first black high school in New Orleans – and another unexpected outgrowth of Storyville. “Single Men In Barracks Don’t Grow Into Plaster Saints” – Rudyard Kipling. In April 1917, the United States entered the war. President Woodrow Segregation In February 1917, Newman proposed Ordinance No. 4118, which Wilson called for volunteers with a goal of enlisting 2,000,000 men in two sought to establish the city’s first residential segregation ordinance years. Three weeks later, only 32,000 had volunteered. In New Orleans, by requiring that all prostitutes of “colored or black race” move into only 134 men enlisted on the first day. Wilson made the controversial a separate vice district across Canal Street from Storyville. The city decision to implement a draft, requiring all men between the ages of informed black prostitutes and madams that they had to vacate by 21 and 30 to register for military service. Men were also required to reform for the war. Secretary of War Newton the end of February. The NAACP supported Baker was charged, by any means necessary, the ordinance, saying it would “redound to the benefit of both races and to the city’s to suppress and prevent brothels from setting reputation” and pledged its “active and moral up near any military camp, station, fort, post, support.” One who did not support it was cantonment, training, or mobilization place. madam Lulu White. Raymond Fosdick, Chairman of the War and White was one of the most notorious and Navy Department, stated that the American Navy lost almost 142,000 working days to powerful madams in the district, advertising venereal disease, which meant that every day herself as the West Indian octoroon “Queen an average of over 450 men (enough to crew a of the Demi-Monde.” She had been arrested for carrying concealed weapons, violating battleship) were incapacitated by the ravages various liquor laws, harboring a young female of vice. Anxious mothers were more concerned for immoral purposes, and trafficking young that their sons returned from war with scars girls from Alabama. White immediately filed from brothels – not bayonets. a writ of injunction against the city to avoid Fighting immorality at home, the War moving, arguing that it deprived her of the use Department reasoned, better prepared soldiers of her property without due process of law, to battle the enemy abroad. Many city and constituted unnecessary and arbitrary abuse government officials across the country immeof police power, and violated the constitution diately closed their red-light districts to protect by denying her equal protection under the soldiers. But “the Gibraltar of commercialized law. After filing the writ, the Louisiana Supreme Court held vice,” New Orleans’ Storyville, remained. Fosdick called Blue Book cover, circa 1913-1915. the ordinance unconstitutional. The city then drafted a new Storyville “one of the most vicious red-light districts I have Courtesy of The Historic New Orleans ordinance, No. 4485, aimed at the same goal, and White ever seen,” calling it a mecca for men in uniform. “If the Collection supplemented her petition accordingly. A temporary injunction New Orleans district is closed,” Fosdick wrote, “it will have was soon granted and other black madams followed suit, including a far-reaching effect on the whole problem in the South. It is the last Willie Piazza, Sweetie Miller, Lucille White, and Minnie Williams. In stronghold of the old regime.” But Mayor Behrman was determined the end, more than twenty property owners (primarily black women to hold on strong. but also two white brothel owners), filed suit. The cases went all the way to the Louisiana Supreme Court, which ruled that the city was Storyville’s Champion “powerless” to prevent women of color from living and working in “New Orleans,” Behrman said, lamenting the city’s reputation, “has Storyville. The court held that the ordinance was in violation of the not only been unjustly dealt with in these matters, but vilified without 14th Amendment, which held that one of the essentials to liberty was provocation and seemingly with malice afterthought.” In July of 1917, the right of an individual to reside where they desired. Behrman denied rumors that the troops were going to be removed

Left: a cartoon by from Camp Nicholls for failure to close Storyville. In early collect insurance on buildings which “immorality has given John Churchill Chase August, Behrman received a letter from Secretary Baker who drew the district. a value largely fictitious.” There was also fear of evicted right: the cover for asking him to close Storyville. Behrman didn’t respond. In the prostitutes burning buildings out of hatred and revenge. Mascot newspaper - this contained August, Bascom Johnson, counsel to the American Social Vacate notices were sent out to owners and landlords and the first article to Hygiene Association and with the rank of Major in the “For Rent” signs littered the district. Rents dropped more suggest a red-light district in New Sanitary Corps, visited New Orleans and inspected Storyville Orleans than 75 percent. Various church groups and women’s - much of the himself, reporting on numerous instances of soldiers and Storyville ordinance is organizations vowed to help women get off the road to based on this article. sailors openly drinking and carousing in brothels. He bought ruin and onto the pathway of sanctity. There was talk of a map drawn to scale demonstrating that the Naval Station, Jackson obtaining a plantation house and fixing it up as a dormitory to train Barracks, Camp Nicholls, and the new Naval Training School being any former Storyville resident who wished to lead a better life in built were all within 5 miles of Storyville. Behrman called Johnson hairdressing and manicuring. a subordinate who had no authority. Behrman then travelled to Prostitutes moved out gradually, with all their possessions in the world Washington D.C. to assure Secretary Baker that no soldiers were ever in two-wheeled carts and wheelbarrows. The more affluent prostitutes admitted to Storyville and warn that scattering prostitutes across the and madams had their maids carry their personal belongings as they city like buckshot would make it more difficult for police surveillance. walked ahead with their small dogs on leashes and canaries in cages Behrman’s persuasiveness allowed Storyville’s continuation. However, while black jazz bands played “Nearer My God to Thee.” Storyville’s on September 24th, Secretary Josephus Daniels wrote a letter to last night was quiet; the press reported there were no “wild orgies,” Governor Ruffin Pleasant and Behrman insisting that Storyville close. just a “typical” suicide attempt from Edna Morris, a former prostitute. On October 6, 1917, Congress extended the draft law to include the Three weeks after the closure of Storyville, 60 women were charged Navy. Behrman was reportedly told, “close the red-light district or the with living in an immoral house, 17 with conducting immoral armed forces will.” In October, the city council voted to end Storyville, houses, and 52 with “street walking.” A little over a year later it was setting a closure date of November 12th. Mayor Behrman, unwilling discovered that some New Orleans police officers were attempting to to admit total defeat, released a statement saying that legislative drive “respectable” people out of old Storyville and re-establish the recognition of prostitution was a necessary evil in a seaport the size once-profitable vice district. of New Orleans and that the city government believed it could be The oft-romanticized image of beautiful women dressed in silk and easily and safely controlled in a prescribed area. “Our experience lounging on velvet chaises with the sounds of clicking champagne has taught us that the reasons for this are unanswerable; but the glasses and jaunty jazz music flowing out the windows of a three-story Navy Department of the federal government has decided otherwise.” mansion, was more fantasy than the reality of Storyville. The pleasure This legislation meant that ordinances defining the red-light district district, on so many levels, wasn’t. The social stratification was as and segregating whites and black prostitutes were repealed. It was extreme in the underworld as in was among the upper classes and also stated that prostitutes could remain in Storyville, just not practice very distinct rungs existed on all levels. There was a wide spectrum of their former profession. madams, prostitutes, and others, all trading their services on sliding scales. Although the creation of Storyville was primarily meant to protect women (albeit white women) and property owners, it ultimately Dimming Of The Red Lights Shutting down Storyville was not a matter of locking doors and flipping left those most vulnerable exposed to corruption and violence. The off the red lights. After the vote for its closure, fire marshals were red lights of the district may have finally dimmed in 1917, but its ordered to carefully watch the district. The time was “propitious” to legacy and legend have lasted for a century since. •

Maison Mayle “Commandante” silk trench and “Saint Phalle” lariat necklace at Pied Nu; Raquel Allegra “Black Dahlia” sleeveless crochet dress and Prada velvet sandals at Joseph.

Chic Street Distinctive boutique brands, store signs in new spots and famous local favorites are in the mix and making news on Magazine Street. Uniquely New Orleans, the meandering six-mile retail district is polishing its reputation as a destination for the discerning, design-savvy shopper.

By Lisa Tudor Photographed by Theresa Cassagne Model Alexandra Chaisson Hair by Niki Walker Makeup by Meggan Ory Editorial Assistant Chloe Stoller

Rosetta Getty backless wrap over Toteme “Vichi” cropped trousers; Ellery earrings (mixed set); Loeffler Randall “Coco” velvet heels and Roksanda “Neneh” bag at Pilot and Powell.

Palmer Harding shirt and open trouser, Ellery earrings and Loeffler Randall velvet heels at Pilot and Powell.

Boks & Baum handcrafted gemstone “Antoinette” bib necklace with Acler “Fyffe” dress at SoSusu Boutique.

Iro leather jacket and “Janezeta” pants at Clover Boutique; Marc Jacobs “Bishop” blouse at Joseph; Loeffler Randall velvet heels at Pilot and Powell.

Prada “Bella� dress and Tobacco velvet sandals; Margaret Ellis double cuff and earrings at Joseph.

Michelle Mason silk maxi trench, wide leg trouser and Milly white leather bustier at Clover Boutique; Lele Sadoughi “Crystal Lily” earrings at Joseph; Malone Souliers velvet “Maureen” pump at SoSuSu Boutique.

Rachel Comey wool gauze “Renew” top and “Jo” gold and malachite drop earrings; Maison Mayle faded denim “Dimanche” culotte at Pied Nu.

World War I Centennial FFF FF FF FF FF F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F FFFFF

New Orleanian Edgar Bouligny wa s t h e wa r ’ s f i r s t A m e r i ca n C a s u a l t y —And the Story Was Just Beginning


B y B r i a n A l t ob e l l o


s both a French and Spanish Creole (his family could be traced to the earliest days of the founding of New Orleans), Edgar Bouligny grew up hearing stories about his intrepid ancestor, Dominique de Bouligny who founded the town of New Iberia, Louisiana. He later served as military governor while Spain ruled the colony in the late 1700s. Edgar’s grandfather represented Louisiana in Congress in the years immediately prior to the Civil War. Independent, stubborn, and virulently unionist, John Bouligny received national attention for bravely refusing to vacate his seat when Louisiana voted to secede. Edgar was stamped with many of the traits of these men in his bloodline, among them being the violent inclinations of Edgar Sr. As a young teen, his father was once arrested for firing his pistol into the belly of another teen who first punched him on the steps of the French Quarter’s elegant Opera House at the conclusion of a performance there. After firing the gun, he fled into the building through the scattering crowd, ran up the staircase, and somehow avoided three shots fired at him by his accoster who chased after him. (One cannot help but wonder why two teenagers from upstanding families were carrying weapons). Both boys were arraigned in court the following day wherein a high-pitched argument erupted between them in front of the judge’s bench. After being subdued, they were both sentenced to 24 hours in jail and fined $25. Three years later he was arrested twice, once for causing a disturbance

at a voting poll and again for assault with a deadly weapon. Even more serious charges were to follow: the murder of a man in Los Angeles (not guilty verdict) and manslaughter in El Paso for shooting his bookkeeper (guilty--4 years in prison). Edgar, Jr. was just three years old when this last incident occurred, too young to know about his father’s criminal misdeeds and fondness for gunplay. Yet the younger Edgar would continue his father’s irascible behavior. At 13 he found himself in a New Orleans boarding school for boys where military science was taught, the College of the Infant Jesus, presumably for disciplinary reasons. Even within this closed environment, however, he managed to burglarize over 20 homes and businesses. His parents took their lawyer’s advice and had him plead insanity. The strategy worked. He was sent to the Louisiana state mental hospital in Jackson, avoiding detention, at least in a penal facility. Not long thereafter, he escaped, fled to St. Louis at 17, and took a job as a bellhop at a hotel in that city. A short time later his wanderlust brought him to San Francisco where he was shanghaied and forced to work as a deckhand on a steamer to China, then back to San Francisco. Disillusioned and aimless, he joined the U.S. Army and, in his first assignment, helped to guard that city from looters in the aftermath of the earthquake of 1906. He left the Army in 1912, but when war broke out in Europe in 1914, he felt drawn to the adventure. Edgar’s affinity for France and his sympathy for their struggle against the Germans was compelling. Besides, he was fluent in French, thanks to his mother’s’ insistence on a proper Creole education for her son. He along with roughly 120 other Americans joined the French Foreign Legion. It did not

appear to be a difficult decision for him. “I thought France was worth fighting for,” he stated simply, “so I went. That’s all” Bouligny enlisted in August of 1914 in the Legion, one of the first Americans to do so, and remained there until May of 1917 when he became a fighter pilot for the notorious Lafayette Escadrille. During his stint on active duty, he was wounded four times at the Battle of the Somme, becoming the first American casualty of the Great War. More danger befell him when an enemy bomb exploded under his trench near Rheims. Bouligny was buried in the debris for 27 hours before he was accidentally discovered and dug up, stunned but still alive. Later as a pilot he survived landing his disabled biplane after taking fire from the famed German “Flying Circus” in the skies over Albania. Arrogant as ever, the six-footer often boasted that the Germans didn’t have a bullet with his name on it. He was awarded the Croix de Guerre by the French military for his heroism in combat. Before returning to the U.S., he met a pretty French girl named Odile Hubeau while having photos developed at the shop in Paris where she worked. They immediately began seeing each other several times a week. Deeply in love, they were married nine months later. But what appeared to be an endearing story of a wartime romance in the City of Lights abruptly turned sour when, a day after their marriage, Edgar confessed to her that he was already married to an American. To the lovesick young French woman, that seemed not to be an impediment as long as her hero divorced his first wife, which he did once they arrived in the U.S. to begin their lives together. There, they would drive around the nation as partners in a photography business, an affinity shared by both of them. But what followed was only occasional success selling their work to travel magazines and such. By the late 1920s they were broke, so the couple decided reluctantly to return to New Orleans, perhaps to lean on Edgar’s family for financial help. They rented a cheap French Quarter apartment at 409 Bourbon Street. Penniless and without direction, the decorated airman was no longer held in the esteem he had once achieved while in uniform. His wartime exploits overseas never translated into a solid post-war career in America, and the discontent stirred his inner demons. Clinging to the memories of his salad days as a pilot in France, Edgar found solace sharing the aerial photos he took from his cockpit while flying over the ruins of shelled cities and broken battlefields to American Legion posts and civic associations. During these presentations, Edgar could at least temporarily relive those moments which connected him spiritually to his great greatgrandfather Dominique, whose burial in St. Louis Cathedral among Louisiana governors and bishops attested to the significance of his life. But these talks were never sufficient to tame his tortured spirit.

He began going out alone at night to various clubs in the “Tango Belt,” a niche in the French Quarter on upper Iberville Street where the lascivious dance continued well into the early morning. Edgar returned home way too late, way too often. Not surprisingly, this led to loud arguments with Odile, followed by curses and beatings. By 1931 the marriage was irreconcilable. The 43 year-old Bouligny was exhibiting the classic symptoms of what was then called “shell shock” or, in modern terminology, PTSD. He had become only a residue of his former self, an ugly predator, and his still adoring wife was his convenient and easy prey. One day he seemed particularly agitated and punched her, knocking the petite 37 yearold to the floor of their tiny kitchen. When the six-footer came at her again with clenched fists, she shot him with his own .22 caliber pistol, which she had hidden in the kitchen sideboard. As he lay dying, she picked up the head of her bleeding husband and rested it on her lap crying over him, sobbing again and again that she loved him. Odile was taken to the police station where she detailed in both French and fractured English the recent years of physical abuse. The coroner identified eight bruises on her which, he said, were likely caused by kicks or punches, validating her claim of self-defense. Several of the couple’s relatives hurried to the police station to speak on her behalf, including Edgar’s inconsolable 76 year old mother who prayed the rosary incessantly throughout the ordeal. “Poor boy. He was never the same after the war,” she cried. “He was sick. None of my family feel hard against her.” Odile was released without charges, still muttering, “I love him still. I will always love him.” Newspapers from Modesto to St. Louis to Brownsville gave the story front page status. In a few, the report occupied an entire page accompanied by broad artist renditions of the murder scene and photos of the couple - Edgar, square jawed and looking resolute in his impeccable uniform and Odile, prim in the stylish dress of the 1920s. “Shot Her Husband Because She Loved Him,” shouted the bold headline of the July 5, 1931 Ogden Standard Examiner. “First American Wounded in War Slain by Menaced War Bride,” exclaimed the Brooklyn Daily Eagle. Several reprinted an entire account of Bouligny’s adventures before and during the war written by Captain Paul Rockwell, who had earlier penned a history of Americans who joined the French Foreign Legion before the U.S. declaration of war. The former pilot had longed for the attention he had once received as an acclaimed fighter ace over a decade before, yet as Odile made her way back to her native country shortly after the shooting, that attention was now fraught with disdain for him rather than veneration. Once a national hero, the New Orleanian had become merely a character in a tragic opera. •

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

A Southern woman has infamous mystique. Books, ballads, TV shows and films have long tapped into the world’s fascination with a woman who is at once feminine, but not afraid to speak her mind; gracious, but in no way a pushover; and with the strength and force of hurricane winds whipping across the Gulf Coast. The southern woman has earned her fitting nickname: Steel Magnolia.

New Orleans Magazine would like to thank Saks Fifth Avenue for providing the clothing and styling, Eclectic Home for providing the seating and the Le Meridien New Orleans for providing the venue for our 2017 Steel Magnolias photo shoot.

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Tina Dandry-Mayes wearing Teri Jon; Kathleen Gaudin wearing Herve Leger; Bonnie LaNasa wearing Aiden Mattox; Dr. Lisa Donofrio wearing Herve Leger; Anna Tusa wearing Herve Leger; Tonya S. Johnson wearing Badgley Mischka all provided by Saks Fifth Avenue

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Bonnie Jane LaNasa Top Producing Agent, Keller Williams Realty New Orleans Bonnie Jane LaNasa’s trademark line, “Bonnie Knows!” couldn’t be more accurate: she knows all the ins-and-outs of New Orleans’ unique real estate market. Helping clients find their dream home comes naturally to LaNasa; her family has been in “Big Easy” real estate for more than 50 years. A top producing realtor with Keller Williams Realty New Orleans, LaNasa specializes in condo living, historic homes, senior real estate needs, international clients, and also holds an “At Home with Diversity” certification. She is a member of the National Association of Realtors, Louisiana REALTORS Association, New Orleans Metropolitan Association of Realtors, and Keller Williams International. “I learned all the hard stuff from my dad,” LaNasa says, “You can have all of the traditional education in the world, but most of what I do is knowing individual needs and reading between the lines, and that can’t be taught.” Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Alexander McQueen

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Tonya S. Johnson Attorney at Law, Johnson and Johnson Law Offices Attorney Tonya S. Johnson graduated from Hampton University in Virginia with a degree in journalism. She enjoyed that field because it allowed her to meet people and to understand a bit about what has shaped them; this skill, she believes, serves her well today. A graduate of the Southern University Law Center, Johnson has been a practicing attorney for 18 years. Her practice focuses on personal injury and medical malpractice, and she takes great pride in being able to help her clients navigate the complexities of the legal system, oftentimes aiding them in obtaining a sense of closure. When giving back to the community, Johnson is drawn to projects that focus on issues affecting women and young people. She feels supported, both in the office and out, by her husband, prominent attorney Garron M. Johnson, and her three beautiful children. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Lela Rose

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Lisa Donofrio,MD Co-owner of Etre Cosmetic Dermatology and Laser Center Lisa Donofrio, MD, a board certified dermatologist, has been in practice for 23 years in New Haven, Connecticut and New York City. Three years ago, she decided to return to New Orleans, opening Etre Cosmetic Dermatology and Laser Center on St. Charles Avenue with her partner Kyle Coleman, MD. She believes strongly in the physiciandirected practice of medicine, treating each patient with an individualized, hands-on approach. She is involved with dermatology resident education at both the Yale University School of Medicine as well as at her alma mater, Tulane University School of Medicine. Dr. Donofrio is the incoming president of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, the largest surgical dermatology society in the world. Both she and Dr. Coleman believe in giving back to the community, frequently donating Etre’s cosmetic services to charity auctions and fundraisers. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Alice + Olivia

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Kathleen Gaudin Owner/President of Star Glass, Inc. Kathleen Gaudin started Star Glass, Inc. in her sister Charlene Michel’s living room over 30 years ago as a single mother of three and with very little capital. The company has since blossomed, providing the New Orleans area with all kinds of glasswork—custom, residential, commercial, and automotive—often taking on multi-million dollar projects and specializing in excellent customer service. Gaudin says she believes you learn more from your failures than from your successes; persistence, and a willingness to continue on despite setbacks, are key. She often tells her employees that success results from showing up on time, working until the job is done, and making sure the customer is happy at the end of the day—even if it means taking a loss. Honesty and hard work are the best policies, Gaudin reminds us, and her achievements attest to this truth. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Dolce & Gabbana

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Tina Dandry-Mayes Financial Adviser and Owner of Financial Strategies and Solutions LLC Raised by parents who modeled a strong work ethic and respect for others, Tina Dandry-Mayes credits life experiences for her current success as a financial adviser. Transitioning from a salaried job into a commissionbased, male-dominated industry taught her the keys to success are a positive attitude, continuous education, good time-management skills, and goal setting. She has been a recipient of the New Orleans Magazine Five Star Wealth Managers award, one of 2005’s CityBusiness Women of the Year, and a CityBusiness Money Makers honoree in 2017. She also believes in giving back to the community, serving on several boards and volunteering with numerous charitable organizations. Dandry-Mayes says that surviving stage 3 breast cancer six years ago helped her gain perspective on the important things in life: God, family, and helping others. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Etro

new orleans steel magnolias promotional section

Anna Tusa

Owner, New Orleans Creole Cookery Anna Tusa goes beyond delicious cuisine and authentic New Orleans dining experiences—although her restaurant, New Orleans Creole Cookery, excels in both. Named one of the CityBusiness Women of the Year in both 2014 and 2017, a graduate of the Goldman Sachs 10,000 Small Businesses Program, and a member of several civic and charity organizations, Tusa aims high. Her vision goes beyond the personal: she believes in working with New Orleanians of all backgrounds within her industry, promoting a hard-working single mother from waitress to front line manager, for example, or supporting employees who are trying to finish school. “Desire, dedication and determination are the three D’s necessary for the restaurant industry,” Tusa says, and she plans to bring those skills and determination to her newest restaurant, Briquette, opening this fall on 701 S. Peters Street. Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue: Nero


Dorignac’s Food Center New Orleans Opera Nunez Community College


New orleans!

The Perio Clinic Tropical Isle® our history is as important as our future. On the following pages you’ll meet longstanding, established local businesses - some of which have been in the city even longer tham this magazine. From 15 to 75 years, from education to food centers, learn more about them while celebrating their commitment both to their business and to New Orleans.

The Menu

jeffery johnston photo



meet the chefs Edgar Caro

Brasa Bound South American Style on Metairie road By Jay Forman


ining on Metairie Road just got a little more exciting with the opening of Brasa, a South American-inspired steakhouse helmed by Baru alum Chef Edgar Caro. A native of Columbia, Caro took over the former Chateau du Lac


O C TO B ER 2017

m yne w

earlier this year and embarked on an extensive renovation, kitting it out with a refreshed interior along with a custom, open hearth grill that serves as the heart and soul of this wood-fired churrasqueria. “What I wanted to bring to the

Edgar Caro has built a strong presence in the New Orleans food scene since moving here for college from Cartagena, Columbia back in 1999. He opened the drinks and tapas hotspot Baru back in 2007 and later expanded with Basin Seafood and Spirits just down the street. For Brasa, Caro extends his reach into Old Metairie, offering a palate of South American staples and local fare cooked churrasqueria-style on an open wood hearth. The end result is a comfortable neighborhood restaurant that, along with terrific steaks, presents novel offerings such as Ajiaco, an Andean chicken stew, alongside favorites like Shrimp Remoulade.

jeffery johnston photo

table was the feel of a steakhouse expressed through this approach. with a more modern vibe than it “A little olive oil and sea salt to finish is all you need,” Caro said. had before,” Caro said. The result is a neighborhood One of his favorite dishes is the restaurant, a few ticks above Pollo a la Brasa – chicken that casual, which offers a menu gets transformed in the heart of that samples a broad spectrum of the wooden coals. “We brine the South American fare, knit together chicken to keep it moist,” said by the unifying element of the Caro. “It develops a flavor that is churrasqueria. “Everything is simple but delicious.” Going into cooked over a wood-fired grill,” fall keep an eye open for seasonal Caro explained. “In addition we vegetables such as squash and showcase a lot of different cuts of pumpkin, some of which cook meat that you don’t see at many for hours, that benefit from this places in the U.S.” To source technique. them, Caro developed a network Yet at its heart Brasa remains a of small Louisiana purveyors neighborhood spot; a place that like Rains Farms Caro envisions and Homeplace regulars returning to again and Pastures to find what he needed. again. He tailors Brasa, 2037 Metairie Road, Old Metairie, “Working with the menu to this 570-6338. D Tues-Sun, them I was able philosophy by to get these cuts, rolling in popular which otherwise local fare like would be hard for me to find from Shrimp Remoulade along with the major distributors.” Rains in favorites from his own childhood particular has an amazing Wagyu- like Ajiaco, an Andean chicken style entraña, a skirt steak that stew seasoned with Guasca, a Caro often runs as a special. If South American herb that is they have it, get it. Other good synonymous with the dish. Other choices include the Picanha, a top comfort-food choices include a sirloin with the cap left on that short rib-studded Mac and Cheese is a signature dish in Brazil. Both appetizer. At press time Brasa was are fired up on the open grill and open for dinner Tuesday through served with simple accompani- Sunday, with parking available ments, such as coal-roasted root out front as well as in a lot just vegetables and coarse sea salt, across the street. • with little to interfere with the direct flavor of the steak save for an assortment of house-made chimichurri. But Brasa is more than a steakhouse. A churrasqueria is a style of open-hearth cooking that is not limited to cuts of beef. Somewhat Argentine Steak house comparable to barbecue, it differs La Boca has been firing up in that it uses both direct and Argentine-style steaks in the indirect heat and also accom- Warehouse District since 2006, modates a broader range of fare. making it a terrific alternative to Caro embraces this technique more traditional steakhouses. with offerings like whole gulf fish Along with hard-to-find choices cooked on the bone and vegetables like the Entrana Fina con la roasted whole in the smoldering Piel, with its crispy exterior, it coals. Imagine eggplant slow- also offers a terrific gnocchi – a cooked through to perfection, nod to the Italian heritage that with a smokiness that can only be contributes to Argentine cuisine.

my ne w orleans . co m

O CTO BER 2 0 1 7


THE MENU . restaurant insider

News From the Kitchen Mangu, Nomiya, Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco By Robert Peyton

Tres Golpes aka “The Three Punches”



Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco

The food of the Dominican Republic is not well represented in New Orleans, but with the opening of Mangú, in Gretna, that’s changed. The large menu features a wide array of authentic Dominican cuisine, including Sancocho (a stew with beef, chicken and pork); mondongo, or tripe stew; fried whole fish; and, of course, the dish for which the restaurant is named: Mangú, mashed plantains with your choice of at least a dozen toppings. Mangú, 2112 Belle Chasse Hwy. Ste. 7, in Gretna, Tuesday – Thursday, 11 to 8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 to 9 p.m., and Sunday 11 to 5 p.m., 324-9870.

Nomiya opened in June in the small storefront formerly occupied by Rivista. There’s scant eating space and an abbreviated menu featuring two versions of Ramen soup, both with a pork-based tonkotsu broth (one spicy). Add-ons include bamboo shoots, Japanese pickles, ginger and fish cake. Pork buns and edamame round out the choices. Hidetoshi Suzuki, of Kanno California Sushi, provided the recipes and Allen and Christie Nguyen (of Bayou Wings) run the show. Nomiya, 4226 Magazine St., Tuesday - Sunday, 4 to 10 p.m.

Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco recently took over the verdant spot most recently home to Ivy, with a menu heavy on the eponymous quickly-marinated fish dish, as well as others native to the Andean region. Look also for fresh Peruvian causa (a chilled potato salad flavored with chiles and topped with ingredients such as crabmeat, octopus or shrimp), and beef dishes such as Lomo Saltado (stir-fried beef tips with tomato, onion and crispy fried potatoes). Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco, 5015 Magazine St., Monday – Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m., with lunch hours tba. 267-7612,


O C TO B ER 2017

m yne w

jeffery johnston photo

THE MENU . food


O C TO B ER 2017

m yne w

styled by photographed by eugenia uhl

Hot Boudin! Season of the Boucherie BY Dale Curry


he Cajun heritage in south Louisiana is known for food and fun. Perhaps the greatest salute to this reputation is the boucherie, a hog-splitting yard party where cold beer flows, tummies are filled and fiddles set all ages to dancing. Not to say this doesn’t still go on big time a few miles upriver, but there was a time when these hootenannies stood second only to Mardi Gras on the Cajun calendar. Some were staged just before Mardi Gras, but most occurred when a chill in the air signaled winter would soon bring natural refrigeration. The result of these family events were classic dishes of boudin, cracklins, hogshead cheese and various sausages. Large pieces of meat were hung in the smokehouse. Nothing was wasted, not even the feet, ears, brains and intestines. Boucherie comes from the French word bouchier, meaning to butcher or slaughter. The resulting charcuterie has recently regained popularity in this French-influenced city with many openings of meat markets and restaurants such as Cochon Butcher and Toups Meatery. At the top of popularity is boudin, a dish that can be served as appetizer, entrée breakfast or snack. In Cajun country, it is sold in service stations and quick-stop groceries out of crock pots that keep it hot. Accompaniments are crackers and beer, and most people eat it for breakfast, frequently in their cars. In New Orleans, you are more likely to eat it in a restaurant, or, you can make it at home. The biggest problem is finding the hog casings in small amounts as well as the pork liver, which most

RECIPE Cajun Boudin

Ingredients Hog casings

supermarkets have discontinued. After searching three major supermarkets with no luck, my success came at Zuppardo’s, which had plenty of casings and ordered pork liver that arrived the next day. Since I didn’t have a meat grinder handy, I used a food processor with much success. Because boudin is the rare sausage that is stuffed with cooked meat, you can actually chop it easily with a knife. I strongly advise using an electric stuffer. Mine is the attachment on a Kitchen Aid mixer. But pork is not the only game in town when it comes to boudin. Imaginative chefs are making it out of crawfish and shrimp. Some would say that’s eating high on the hog.

½ teaspoon white vinegar 1 3 ½-pound pork butt or 2 ½ pounds boneless pork butt ½ pound pork liver 1 large onion, chopped 2 celery ribs, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper, about 1 teaspoon each 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning 3 cups long-grain white rice 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ cup green onion tops, chopped ½ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Directions 1. For this recipe, use six 4-foot casings. Rinse the casings, and soak in a bowl of water with vinegar for 1 hour. You may have to purchase pork liver frozen in a 10-pound case. Have the butcher cut it into smaller pieces and thaw only the amount you need. 2. Most pork butt is sold bone-in; remove the bone and the large layer of fat. Cut it into 1-inch cubes and place pork and whole piece of liver in a large, heavy pot. Add onions, celery, garlic, salt, pepper and Creole seasoning. Cover with water. Bring to a boil, cover and reduce heat. Simmer for 1 hour. Remove

Beyond Sausage

liver and continue simmering until pork is tender, almost falling

Boudin Balls

apart, about ½ hour.

If you don’t want to stuff hog casings to make boudin, you can easily make boudin balls for a popular hors d’oeuvres. Form the meat stuffing into 1 1/2-inch balls, roll in breadcrumbs and fry in a little vegetable oil until brown all over; or, bake in a 375-degree oven, turning, until brown. Serve with Creole mustard or a dip of your choice.

3. Meanwhile, cook rice according to package directions. You will have 6 cups. 4. Chop liver in small pieces, place in food processor and process until ground. Place liver in a large bowl. 5. Strain pork and vegetables, retaining the liquid. In 2 or 3 batches, pulse pork and vegetables until coarse but not pureed. Place in the large bowl. Stir in the cayenne pepper, green onion and parsley, and gently fold in the rice until well-mixed. Stir in enough of the retained liquid to make a wet consistency. The rice will absorb this while cooking. Taste and adjust seasonings to your liking. 6. Rinse casings, allowing the water to run through them. Tie a knot in the end of a casing and attach the other end to your

Cajun Stuffing

Boudin makes great stuffing for poultry. Try it in chickens or Cornish hens; or, hunters can stuff it into quail to serve in a rich, dark duck or quail gumbo.

sausage stuffer. Stuff the whole casing to about 1 to 1 ½ inches wide. Twist at intervals, about 8 inches, to form sausages, and tie a knot in the other end. When steamed, they can be cut apart easily. 7. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve; then, steam in a pot over a steamer basket for 10 minutes or until hot. Serve with Creole mustard and crackers. Makes 12 to 14 8-inch sausages.

THE MENU . last call

Halloween Spirits Devil’s Fire By Tim McNally


hen you do something better than just about anyone else, why not just keep on doing it? And just when you think you are overdoing the task, you simply add a few more happenings, as if to prove the original belief. The veritable explosion of New Orleans’ festival calendar has continued unabated. It used to be that if someone had an idea for a new event, they would check the current calendar and see what dates were open. No more. There are no open dates on the calendar and every week we see an announcement about a new festival. Keep ‘em

coming. For New Orleanians, the more the merrier. Then along comes Halloween, a ready-made party celebrated by everyone. Celebrations outside New Orleans have nothing on a city tailor-made for a party about ghosts, haunted happenings, with the chops to back up the legends. The folks at Salon by Sucre, a pastry shop with full dining and bar services located in the French Quarter, join in the madness with a drink creation to accompany rows of delightful goodies. Not so much scary as sweet. In a New Orleans festival sort of way.

RECIPE Devil’s Fire

2 oz. Rye whiskey 1 oz. Blood orange puree 1/2 oz. Honey syrup 1 slice of jalapeno 1 oz. Ginger beer Muddle the jalapeno and puree together. Add the rye, and honey syrup. Shake. Pour through a strainer into a double old-fashioned glass over fresh ice and then top with ginger beer. Garnish with a candied orange/blood orange.


O C TO B ER 2017

m yne w

eugenia uhl photo

THE MENU . dining listings

H= New Orleans Magazine award winner

Abita Springs Abita Brew Pub Gastropub 72011 Holly St., (985) 892-5837, L, D Tue-Sun. Better-than-expected pub food in its namesake eatery. “Tasteful” tours available for visitors. $$ Akers Middendorf’s Seafood Interstate 55, Exit 15, 30160 Highway 51 South, (985) 386-6666, L, D Wed-Sun. Historic seafood destination along the shores of Lake Maurepas is worldfamous for its thin-fried catfish fillets. Open since 1934, it’s more than a restaurant, it’s a Sun. drive tradition. $$ Avondale H Mosca’s Italian 4137 Highway 90 West, 436-8950, D TueSat. Italian institution dishes out massive portions of great food, family-style. Good bets are the shrimp Mosca and chicken à la grande. Cash only. $$$ Bywater

H Pizza Delicious pizza 617 Piety St., 676-8482, L, D Tue-Sun. Authentic New York-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable


O C TO B ER 2017

$ = Average entrée price

$ = $5-10

restaurant that began as a pop-up, but they also offer excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes as well. Outdoor seating a plus. $

H Mariza Italian 2900 Charters St., 598-5700, D Tue-Sat. An Italian-inspired restaurant by chef Ian Schnoebelen features a terrific raw bar, house-cured charcuterie and an array of refined adult beverages served in the industrial/contemporary setting on the ground floor of the Rice Mills lofts. $$$ Carrollton Bourré AMERICAN 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 510-4040. L, D Tue-Sun. “Elevated” street food along with quality daiquiris and reconsidered wings are the draw at this newcomer from the team behind Boucherie. $$ Breads on Oak Bakery/Breakfast 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, B, L Wed-Sun. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak Street serves breads, sandwiches, gluten-free and vegan-friendly options. $ City Park

m yne w

$$ = $11-15

$$$ = $16-20

$$$$ = $21-25

Café NOMA AMERICAN 1 Collins Diboll Circle, NO Museum of Art, City Park, 4821264, L, (snacks) Tue-Sun. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $$ Morning Call Bakery/Breakfast 56 Dreyfous Drive, City Park, 885-4068, morning-call. 24 hours a day; cash-only. Chicory coffee and beignets coated with powdered sugar make this the quintessential New Orleans coffee shop. $ CBD/Warehouse District H Annunciation Louisianian Fare 1016 Annunciation St., 568-0245, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Steven Manning brings a refined sensibility to this refined Warehouse District oasis along with his famous fried oysters with melted brie. $$$ Balise Louisianian Fare 640 Carondelet St., 459-4449, L Tue-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Chef Justin Devillier turns back the clock at this turn-of-the-century inspired bistro in the CBD. Decidedly

$$$$$ = $25 & up

masculine fare – think beef tartare with horseradish and pumpernickel – is carefully crafted and fits well alongside the excellent cocktail and beer list. $$$

H Besh Steak Steakhouse Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. D daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$

H Borgne Seafood 601 Loyola Ave., 6133860, L, D daily. Coastal Louisiana seafood with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this high-volume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$ Café Adelaide Louisianian Fare Loews New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St., 595-3305, B, L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. This offering from the Commander’s Palace family of restaurants has become a power-lunch favorite for business-people and politicos. Also features the Swizzle Stick Bar. $$$$ Calcasieu Specialty Foods 930

Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2188, For gatherings both large and small, the catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous. Chophouse New Orleans Steakhouse 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, D daily. In addition to USDA prime grade aged steaks prepared under a broiler that reaches 1,700 degrees, Chophouse offers lobster, redfish and classic steakhouse sides. $$$

famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

H Domenica Italian The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, L, D daily. Chef Alon Shaya serves authentic, regional Italian cuisine. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta

628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, L Mon-Fri, D Tue-Sat. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this Mr. John’s offshoot overlooking Lafayette Square, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the appeal. $$$ Drago’s Louisianian Fare Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, L, D daily. This

800 Common St., 571-9580, B, L daily. Illy coffee and creative crêpes, sandwiches and more are served at this sleek and contemporary café on the ground floor of the Merchant Building. $

some from chef John Besh’s Northshore

870 Tchoupitoulas St., 525-8205, D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$

Emeril’s Louisianian Fare 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, L Mon-Fri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$ Gordon Biersch Gastropub 200 Poydras St., 552-2739, L, D daily. Local outpost of this popular chain serves specialty brews made on-site and crowdpleasing lunch and dinner fare. $$

H Herbsaint Louisianian Fare 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana

H Lüke World 333 St. Charles Ave., 3782840, B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Chef John Besh and executive chef Matt Regan serve Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, house-made pâtés and abundant plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$ Manning’s AMERICAN 519 Fulton St., 593-8118. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Born of a partnership between New Orleans’ First Family of Football and Harrah’s Casino, Manning’s offers sports bar fans a step up in terms of comfort and quality. With a menu that draws on both New Orleans and the Deep South, traditional dishes get punched up with inspired but accessible

twists in surroundings accented by both memorabilia and local art. $$$

H Merchant Bakery/Breakfast

H La Boca Steakhouse

H Cochon Louisianian Fare 930

H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse Steakhouse

Johnny Sanchez World 930 Poydras St., 304-6615, JohnnySanchezRestaurant. com. L, D daily. Contemporary Mexican mecca offering celebrity chef cachet to go along with the locally sourced produce accompanying the Bistec a la Parilla. Popular happy hour and downtown locale next to South Market District add to the appeal. $$$

and entrées features locally raised products, farm. $$$$

Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski showcase Cajun and Southern cuisine at this hot spot. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme here, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine from the bar. Reservations strongly recommended. $$

brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$

Morton’s The Steakhouse Steakhouse 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, 566-0221, D daily. Private elevator leads to the plush, wood-paneled environs of this local outpost of the famed Chicago steakhouse popular with politicians and celebrities. $$$$ Mother’s Louisianian Fare 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long queues and a confounding ordering system to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$ Mulate’s Louisianian Fare 201 Julia St., 522-1492, L, D daily. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this world-famous Cajun destination. $$ Palace Café World 605 Canal St., 5231661, B, L, D daily. A classic New Orleans restaurant, located at the foot of the French Quarter, the Dickie Brennan and Palace Cafe team constantly evolve

my ne w orleans . co m

O CTO BER 2 0 1 7


traditional Creol dishes. Enjoy specialty cocktails and small plates athe Black Duck Bar on the second floor. $$$

H Pêche Seafood 800 Magazine St., 5221744, L, D Mon-Sat. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-burning oven. An excellent raw bar is offered as well. $$$ Q&C Hotel/Bar AMERICAN 344 Camp St., 587-9700, B, D daily, L Fri-Sun. Newly renovated boutique hotel offering a small plates menu with tempting choices such as a Short Rib Poor Boy and Lobster Mac and Cheese to complement their sophisticated craft cocktails. $$ Red Gravy Bakery/Breakfast 4125 Camp St., 561-8844, B, Br, L, Wed-Mon. Farm-to-table Italian restaurant offers a creative array of breakfast items such as Cannoli Pancakes and Skillet Cakes, as well as delectable sandwiches and more for lunch. Homemade pastas and authentic Tuscan specialties round out the menu. $$ H Restaurant August AMERICAN 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, L Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning chef John Besh’s menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Rock-N-Sake Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake. com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun, late night Fri-Sat. Fresh sushi and contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$ H Root AMERICAN 21800 Magazine St., 309-7800, L, D Tue-Sat. Chef Philip Lopez opened Root in November 2011 and has garnered a loyal following for his modernist, eclectic cuisine. $$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sac-A-Lait Seafood 1051 Annunciation St., 324-3658, D Tue-Sat, L Fri. Cody and Sam Carroll’s shrine to Gulf Coast and Louisiana culinary heritage melds seafood, game, artisan produce, and craft libations in an ambitious menu that celebrates local and southern cuisine. The striking buildout in the Cotton Mill lofts adds to the appeal. $$$$ The Grill AMERICAN 540 Chartres St., 522-1800. B, L, D daily. A diner with local character staffed by local characters. $ The Grill Room AMERICAN Windsor 120

O C TO B ER 2017

Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-6000, B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Featuring modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$

restaurant spotlight Legacy Kitchen Opens “Due North” in Mandeville By Mirella Cameran

Tommy’s Cuisine Italian 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$ Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar AMERICAN 1009 Poydras St., 309-6530, Walk-Ons. com. L, D, daily. Burger, sandwiches, wraps and more made distinctive with a Louisiana twist are served at this sports bar near the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. $$ Warehouse Grille AMERICAN 869 Magazine St., 322-2188, WarehouseGrille. com. L, D daily, Br Fri-Sat. Creative fare served in an art-filled environment. Try the lamb spring rolls. $$ Victory Gastropub 339 Baronne St., 522-8664, D daily. Craft cocktails served by owner and acclaimed bartender Daniel Victory, as well as refined small plates and gourmet pizza. $$ Central City Café Reconcile Louisiana fare 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, L Mon-Fri. Good food for a great cause, this nonprofit on the burgeoning OCH corridor helps train atrisk youth for careers in the food service industry. $$ Covington Don’s Seafood seafood 126 Lake Dr., (985) 327-7111, DonsSeafoodOnline. com. L, D Daily. Popular neighborhood seafood joint offers an array of crowdpleasing south Louisiana dishes, including char-broiled oysters and Zydeco shrimp. Kid’s Menu makes it a good choice for families. $$$ Darrow Café Burnside Louisianian Fare Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, L daily, Br Sun. Historic plantation’s casual dining option features dishes such as seafood pasta, fried catfish, crawfish and shrimp, gumbo and red beans and rice. $$ Latil’s Landing Louisianian Fare Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, D Wed-Sun. Nouvelle Louisiane, plantationstyle cooking served in an opulent setting features dishes like rack of lamb and plume de veau. $$$$$ Faubourg Marigny Feelings Cafe, Bar and Courtyard Lounge Louisianian Fare 535 Franklin Ave, 446-0040, D Tue-Sat, L Fri. The All New Feelings Marigny is a complete relaunch of the

m yne w

Due North by the Legacy Kitchen Collection has opened in Mandeville and Don McLean is already there. In a space that used to be N’Tini’s, the words of McLean’s ‘American Pie’ are written large over the bar. Owned by The Good Company Food Group, which includes the Legacy branded Oyster Counter + Tap Room in the CBD, New Orleans Coffee & Beignet Co. and New Orleans Hamburger and Seafood Co, it offers favorite dishes from all four of the Legacy restaurants. It also features smoked chicken wings, chicken skin cracklins and Hill Country brisket sandwich. Comfort food it may be, it is elevated with a skillful hand and fresh ingredients under the masterful eye of chef Robert Bruce. Open at 11 a.m. daily. Due North, 2891 U.S. 190, Mandeville, 985-626-5566,

cheryl gerber photo

much beloved “Feelings Cafe”. Under the guidance of new ownership and Executive Chef Scott Maki, everything has been completely transformed into one of the most absolutely charming neighborhood restaurants in the area. Chef Maki’s emphasis on contemporary CreoleLouisiana fare is winning diners over from near and far.$$$$ Langlois AMERICAN 1710 Pauger St., 9341010, L Fri-Sat, D WedSun. *Reservations only Supper club and boutique cooking school in the Marigny serves up culturally informed, farm-to-table fare with the added bonus of instruction. Open kitchen and convivial atmosphere add up to a good time. $$$

H Mona’s Café World 504 Frenchmen St., 949-4115. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/ Breakfast 2001 Burgundy St., 525-9355, B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$ The Marigny Brasserie AMERICAN

640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like the fried green tomatoes and innovative cocktails such as the cucumber Collins. $$$ Faubourg St. John H Café Degas French 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, L, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$

H 1000 Figs World 3141 Ponce De Leon St., 301-0848, L, D Tue-Sat. Vegetarian-friendly offshoot of the Fat Falafel Food Truck offers a healthy farm-totable alternative to cookie-cutter Middle Eastern places. $$ French Quarter Angeline AMERICAN 1032 Chartres St., 308-3106, B Mon-Thu, D daily, Br Sat-Sun,. Modern southern with a fine dining focus is the hallmark of this bistro tucked away in a quiet end of the French Quarter. Southern Fried Quail and Duck Confit Ravoli represent the style. $$$ Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 724 Iberville St., 522-5973, L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

H Arnaud’s Louisianian Fare 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, D

daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$

fun. $$$

Arnaud’s Remoulade Italian 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, L, D daily. Granite-topped tables and an antique mahogany bar are home to the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thincrust pizza. $$ Antoine’s Louisianian Fare 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is à la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$ Antoine’s Annex Specialty Foods 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Open daily. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available. BB King’s Blues Club Barbecue 1104 Decatur St., 934-5464, L, D daily. New Orleans outpost of music club named for the famed blues musician features a menu loaded with BBQ and southern-inspired specialties. Live music and late hours are a big part of the

Bayou Burger Burgers 503 Bourbon St., 529-4256, L, D daily. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Gator Bites. $$ Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes, bourbon is offered as well. $$$ Bayona World 430 Dauphine St., 5254455, L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$ Broussard’s French 819 Conti St., 581-3866, D daily, Br Sun. Creole-French institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

H Cane & Table Gastropub 1113 Decatur St., 581-1112, L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Open late, this chefdriven rustic colonial cuisine and rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$ Chartres House Italian 601 Chartres

my ne w orleans . co m

O CTO BER 2 0 1 7


St., 586-8383, L, D daily. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ Court of Two Sisters Louisianian Fare 613 Royal St., 522-7261, CourtOfTwoSisters. com. Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$ Criollo Louisianian Fare Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various cultures reflected in Louisiana cooking and cuisine, often with a slight contemporary twist. $$$ Crazy Lobster Seafood 500 Port of New Orleans Place, Suite 83, 569-3380, L, D daily. Boiled seafood and festive atmosphere come together at this seafood-centric destination overlooking the Mississippi River. Outdoor seating a plus. $$$ Creole Cookery Seafood 508 Toulouse St., Suite C110, 524-9632, L, D daily. Crowd-pleasing destination in the French


O C TO B ER 2017

Quarter offers an expansive menu of Creole favorites and specialty cocktails served with New Orleans flair. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 841 Iberville St., 581-1316, L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Classic Creole dishes, such as redfish on the halfshell, and an Oyster Bar. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$ Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. Validated Parking next door. $$$$

H Doris Metropolitan Steakhouse 620 Chartres St., 267-3500, L Fri-Sun, D daily. Innovative, genre-busting steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$ El Gato Negro World 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, L, D daily. Central Mexican cuisine along with

m yne w

hand-muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$ Galatoire’s Louisianian Fare 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$

H GW Fins Seafood 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), D daily. Owners Gary Wollerman and twice chef of the year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak Steakhouse 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, L Fri, D Sun-Thu. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers handcrafted cocktails to accompany classic steakhouse fare as well as inspired dishes like the Gouté 33: horseradish-crusted bone marrow and deviled eggs with crab ravigote and smoked trout. Reservations accepted. $$$ Hard Rock Café AMERICAN 125 Bourbon St., 529-5617, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Local outpost of this global brand serves burgers, café fare and drinks in their

rock memorabilia-themed environs. $$ House of Blues Louisianian Fare 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, NewOrleans. L, D daily. Surprisingly good menu complements music in the main room. World-famous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$ Irene’s Cuisine Italian 539 St. Philip St., 529-8881. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$

H Italian Barrel Italian 430 Barracks St., 569-0198, L, D daily. Northern Italian dishes like Braciola di Maiale as well as an exhaustive pasta menu tempt here at this local favorite that also offers al fresco seating. $$$ Killer Poboys Louisianian Fare 811 Conti St., 252-6745, L, D Wed-Mon. This quasi-popup operating out of the Erin Rose Bar serves some of the city’s best poor boys, including one featuring glazed pork belly. $ K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen Louisianian Fare 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul. com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to a grateful nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a

destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H Kingfish Seafood 337 Charters St., 5985005, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Regionally inspired seafood dishes with carefully sourced ingredients and southern influence is the focus at this chefdriven French Quarter establishment. $$$ Le Bayou Seafood 208 Bourbon St., 5254755, L, D daily. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just a few of the choices at this seafoodcentric destination on Bourbon Street. Fried alligator is available for the more daring diner. $$$

gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas, and for sipping, a Sazerac or lemony Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $$ NOLA Louisianian Fare 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, L Thu-Mon, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedarplank-roasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Oceana Grill Seafood 739 Conti St., 5256002, B, L, D daily. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro

H Marti’s French 1041 Dumaine St., 522-

Gastropub 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930,

5478, L Fri, D daily. Classic French cuisine, small plates and chilled seafood platters like Grand Plateau Fruits De Mer are the calling cards for this restaurant with an elegant “Old World” feel. $$$ D daily. Wine is the

Muriel’s Jackson Square Italian 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Enjoy pecan-crusted drum and other local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$ Napoleon House Italian 500 Chartres St., 524-9752, L Mon-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites

muse at this beautifully renovated bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

H Patrick’s Bar Vin Gastropub 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, D daily. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates are served as well. $$ Pier 424 Seafood 424 Bourbon St., 3091574, L, D daily. Seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like “Cajun-Boiled” Lobster prepared crawfish-style in spicy crab boil.


Louisianian Fare 301 Dauphine St., 586-

Port of Call Burgers 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/ restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

0972, B, Bar Lunch daily. Just a few steps off of Bourbon Street you can find this relaxing bar featuring an innovative menu with dishes like Crawfish, Jalapeno-and-Bacon Mac and Cheese garnished with fried oysters. Live music a plus. $$$

H R’evolution Italian 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the more cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Chris Lusk and executive sous chef Erik Veney are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$ Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill Italian 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, RedFishGrill. com. L, D daily. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered with local favorites such as barbecue oysters, blackened redfish and double-chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$

Royal House Louisianian Fare 441 Royal St., 528-2601, L, D daily. B Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$ SoBou Louisianian Fare 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

Rib Room AMERICAN Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, B, D daily, L MonSat, Br Sun. Old World elegance and high ceilings, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on Sundays a jazz brunch. $$$

H Tableau Louisianian Fare 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, B Mon-Fri, L Mon-Sat, D daily, Brunch SatSun. Gulf seafood such as Redfish Bienville and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Hussard are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le Petite Théâtre on the corner of Jackson Square. $$$

Richard Fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant

H The Bistreaux Louisianian Fare New

my ne w orleans . co m

O CTO BER 2 0 1 7


Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000, MaisonDupuy. com/dining.html. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$ The Bombay Club Louisianian Fare Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 5772237, D daily. Popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ The Pelican Club AMERICAN 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub. com. D daily. Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to claypot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$

Wood-fired pizza and seasonal Italian cuisine with a locavore philosophy brings respite to the burbs. Family friendly with patio seating to boot. $$ Kenner H Fiesta Latina World 1924 Airline Drive, 469-5792, FiestaLatinaRestaurant. com. B, L, D daily. A big-screen TV normally shows a soccer match or MTV Latino at this home for authentic Central American food. Tacos include a charred carne asada. $$


823 Decatur St., 525-8676, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$

H Cava Louisianian Fare 789 Harrison

District Donuts Sliders Brew AMERICAN 2209 Magazine Street, 570-6945, B, L, D daily. Creative sliders (hello, pork belly) and super-creative donuts (think root beer float) are the hallmarks of this nextgeneration café. $ Hoshun Restaurant Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, L, D daily. Offers a wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Five-pepper calamari is a tasty way to begin the meal, and their creative sushi rolls are good. Private dining rooms available. $$

H Mr. John’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, D Tue-Sat, L FriSat. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$ Gretna H Tan Dinh Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1705 Lafayette St., 361-8008. B, L, D daily. Roasted quail and the beef pho rule at this Vietnamese outpost. $$ Harahan H Oak Oven Italian 6625 Jefferson Highway, Harahan, 305-4039, L, D Mon-Sat.


O C TO B ER 2017

Rizzuto’s Ristorante & Chop House Opens in Lakeview By Mirella Cameran

Lacombe H La Provence French 25020 Highway 190, (985) 626-7662, D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Time-honored Provençal cuisine and rewards guests with a true farm-life experience, from house-made preserves, charcuterie, herbs, kitchen gardens and eggs cultivated on the property. $$$$$

H Tujague’s Louisianian Fare

Garden District Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s AMERICAN 2001 St. Charles Ave., 5939955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro. com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$

restaurant spotlight

Ave., 304-9034. D daily. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big part of the experience. $$$ Lakeview Harbor Burgers 911 Harrison Ave., 486-4887. L, D daily. Burgers are the name of the game at this restaurant. Daily specials, pizza and steaks are offered as well. $ Lakeview Pearl Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 6300 Canal St., 309-5711, LakeviewPearl. com. L, D Mon-Sat. A long list of specialty rolls rounds out the offerings of this Asian-Fusion restaurant. $$

H Mondo World 900 Harrison Ave., 224-2633, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. Make sure to call ahead because the place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$ Lower Garden District H The Green Fork Vegan/Vegetarian 1400 Prytania St., 267-7672, B, L Mon-Sat. Fresh juices, smoothies and vegetarian-friendly fare make The Green Fork a favorite for lovers of healthy food. Catering is offered as well. $$ The Tasting Room Gastropub 1906 Magazine St., 581-3880, TTRNewOrleans. com. D Tue-Sun. Flights of wine and sophisticated small plates are the calling cards for this wine bar near Coliseum Square. $$ Voodoo BBQ Barbecue 1501 St. Charles Ave., 522-4647, VoodooBBQAndGrill. com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$ Metairie

The Rizzuto brothers, Jack and Phil, were already successful restauranteurs when they took on the challenge of opening an Italian restaurant on the location of the former Tony Angello Ristorante, which closed after more than four decades after the eponymous founder died at the age of 88. Mr. Angello’s restaurant had become a part of the fabric of the Lakeview neighborhood having played a part in the lives of so many of its residents. This storied background made opening a new place a challenge, but the Rizzuto brothers have done so with finesse. The renovation has created a lighter, modern, but still luxurious feel to this location and the menu presents some of Angello’s most favored dishes alongside creations of its own. Rizzuto’s Ristorante & Chop House, 6262 Fleur de Lis Drive, 300-1804,

H Andrea’s Restaurant Italian 3100 19th St., 834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.

m yne w

cheryl gerber photo

com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$ Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Austin’s Louisianian Fare 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo. com. D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$ Boulevard American Bistro AMERICAN 4241 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-2301. L, D daily. Classic American cuisine including steaks, chops and more is augmented by regional favorites like Boulevard Oysters at this Metairie bistro. $$$ café B AMERICAN 2700 Metairie Road, 9344700, D daily, L Mon-Fri. Br Sun. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this familyfriendly neighborhood spot. $$$ Caffe! Caffe! AMERICAN 3547 N. Hullen St., 267-9190. B, L Mon-Sat. & 4301 Clearview Parkway, 885-4845. B, L daily; D Mon-Sat. Healthy, refreshing meal options combine with gourmet coffee and espresso drinks to create a tasteful retreat for Metairie diners at a reasonable price. Try

the egg white spinach wrap. $ Crabby Jack’s Louisianian Fare 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, L Mon-Sat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 831-4141, L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$ Don’s Seafood seafood 4801 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-1550, L, D Daily. Metairie outpost of historic local seafood chain that dates from 1934. Features an array of Cajun and seafood classics like their original ‘Jacked Up’ Oysters and seafood platters. Don’t miss their happy hour specials, which offer a good deal on popular dishes. $$$

crowd and offers a freshly squeezed juice menu to go along with its regular menu and express two-course lunch. $$

destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN 714 Elmeer Ave., 896-7300, Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, towering burgers, hearty soups and salads and giant, deli-style sandwiches. $

Vega Tapas Café World 2051 Metairie Road, 836-2007, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Fun, eclectic small plates destination offers creative fare keeps guests coming back with frequent regionally inspired specialty menus served with humor and whimsy. $$

Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant Seafood 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

H Royal China Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 600 Veterans Blvd., 831-9633. L daily, D Tue-Sun. Popular and family-friendly Chinese restaurant is one of the few places around that serves dim sum. $$

Drago’s Louisianian Fare 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant. com. L, D Mon-Sat. This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris. com. L Fri, D daily. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$

Heritage Grill AMERICAN 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 934-4900, L Mon-Fri. This lunch-only destination caters to the office

Sucré Specialty Foods 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277, Desserts daily. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Voodoo BBQ Barbecue 2740 Severn Ave., 353-4227, L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$ Mid-City

H Blue Dot Donuts Specialty Foods 4301 Canal St., 218-4866, B, L Tue-Sun. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly.

H Café Minh Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4139 Canal St., 482-6266, L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Chef Minh Bui and

my ne w orleans . co m

O CTO BER 2 0 1 7


Cynthia Vutran bring a fusion touch to Vietnamese cuisine with French accents and a contemporary flair. $$

H Crescent City Steaks Steakhouse 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, L Tue-Fri & Sun, D Tue-Sun. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$ Five Happiness Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, L, D daily. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house-baked duck. $$ Gracious Bakery + Café Bakery/Breakfast 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, B, L daily. Boutique bakery on the ground floor of the Woodward Building offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $ Juan’s Flying Burrito World 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 486-9950, L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar Louisianian Fare 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as


O C TO B ER 2017

gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$

H Liuzza’s Italian 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120, L, D daily. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. $$

H Mandina’s Louisianian Fare 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, L, D daily. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

H Mona’s Café World 3901 Banks St., 4827743. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H MoPho Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, L, D Wed-Mon. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-andmatch pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$

some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $ Ralph’s On The Park Italian 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, Br Sun, L Tue-Fri, D daily. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$$

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/ Breakfast 139 S. Cortez St., 525-9355, B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

H Taqueria Guerrero World 208 N. Carrollton Ave., 484-6959. B, L, D, Tue-Sat. Friendly staff and authentic Mexican cuisine make this affordable neighborhood restaurant a neighborhood favorite. BYOB $

H Toups’ Meatery Louisianian Fare 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery. com. L, D Tue-Sat. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$

Parkway Bakery and Tavern

AMERICAN 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, L, D Wed-Mon. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to

m yne w

Trèo Gastropub 3835 Tulane Ave., 3044878, L Fri-Sat, D daily. Craft cocktail bar also serves a short but excellent small plates menu to accompany its artfully

composed libations. $$ Multiple Locations Byblos World Multiple Locations, L, D daily. Upscale Middle Eastern cuisine featuring traditional seafood, lamb and vegetarian options. $$ Café du Monde Bakery/Breakfast Multiple Locations, This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ CC’s Coffee House Bakery/Breakfast Multiple locations in New Orleans, Metairie and Northshore, Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $ Copeland’s Louisianian Fare Multiple Locations, L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$ Little Tokyo Asian Fusion/Pan Asian Multiple locations, L, D daily. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$ Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House Seafood Multiple Locations, MrEdsRestaurants. com/oyster-bar. L, D daily. A seafood lover’s

paradise offering an array of favorites like shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffée, blackened redfish and more. An elaborate raw bar featuring gulf oysters both charbroiled and raw is part of the draw. $$$ Reginelli’s Pizzeria pizza Multiple Locations, L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$ Theo’s Pizza Multiple Locations, L, D daily. The cracker-crisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with a lot of local ingredients at cheap prices. $$ Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill AMERICAN Multiple Locations, L, D daily. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular restaurant serves a variety of grilled items as well as appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Also offers catering services. $$$ Northshore Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 1202 N. Highway 190, Covington, (985) 2466155, L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Dakota AMERICAN 629 N. Highway 190, (985) 892-3712, L Tue-Fri, D M on-Sat. A sophisticated dining

experience with generous portions. $$$$$

H Del Porto Ristorante Italian 501 E. Boston St., (985) 875-1006, L, D Tue-Sat. One of the Northshore’s premier fine dining destinations serving Italian food that makes use of locally sourced meats and produce. $$$ Gallagher’s Grill Louisianian Fare 509 S. Tyler St., (985) 892-9992, GallaghersGrill. com. L, D Tue-Sat. Chef Pat Gallagher’s destination restaurant offers al fresco seating to accompany classically inspired New Orleans fare. Event catering offered. $$$ Riverbend H Ba Chi Canteen Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 7900 Maple St., 373-5628. L, D Mon-Sat. The kitchen plays fast and loose with Vietnamese fare at this eclectic outpost on Maple Street. Try the caramelized pork “Baco”. $

H Boucherie Louisianian Fare 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-5514, Boucherie-Nola. com. L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$ Brigtsen’s Louisianian Fare 723 Dante St., 861-7610, D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole

cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

and Creole Italian specialties as well. $$

H Ancora pizza 4508 Freret St., 324-1636,

Carrollton Market AMERICAN 8132 Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket. com. L Sat-Sun, D Tue-Sat. Modern Southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$ D daily. Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza fired in an oven imported from Naples. The housemade charcuterie makes it a double-winner. $$

H Chill Out Café Asian Fusion/Pan Asian

4729 Magazine St., 894-8881, D Tue-Sun, Br Sat-Sun. Cozy gem serves a refined menu of French and Creole classics peppered with Southern influences such as buttermilk fried quail with corn waffle. $$$

729 Burdette St., 872-9628. B, L daily, D Mon-Sat. Thai food and breakfast favorites like waffles and pancakes can both be had at this affordable college-friendly hangout. $

H Cowbell Burgers 8801 Oak St., 2988689, L, D Tue-Sat. Burgers and homemade sauces on potato rolls are the specialty here, along with other favorites like skirt steak. $$

H Apolline Louisianian Fare

Audubon Clubhouse AMERICAN 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute. org. B, L Tue-Sat, Br Sun. A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Blue Frog Chocolates Specialty Foods 5707 Magazine St., 269-5707, Open daily, closed Sundays in summer. French and Belgian chocolate truffles and Italian candy flowers make this a great place for gifts.

Upper 9th Ward St. Roch Market Louisianian Fare 2381 St. Claude Ave., 615-6541, StRochMarket. com. B, L, D daily. Beautiful restoration of historic St. Claude Marketplace with open dining space houses a broad collection of independent eateries including craft cocktails and more. $$ Uptown Amici Italian 3218 Magazine St., 300-1250, L, D daily. Coal-fired pizza is the calling card for this destination, but the menu offers an impressive list of authentic

Bouligny Tavern Gastropub 3641 Magazine St., 891-1810, BoulignyTavern. com. D Mon-Sat. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$

H Café Abyssinia World 3511 Magazine

my ne w orleans . co m

O CTO BER 2 0 1 7


St., 894-6238. L, D daily. One of a just few authentic Ethiopian restaurants in the city, excellent injera and spicy vegetarian fare make this a local favorite. $$ Camellia Grill AMERICAN 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 309-2679. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $ Casamento’s Louisianian Fare 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, L Thu-Sat, D Thu-Sun. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$ Chiba Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 8312 Oak St., 826-9119, L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Contemporary restaurant features fresh, exotic fish from all over the world and fusion fare to go along with typical Japanese options. Extensive sake list and late night happy hours are a plus. $$$

8324 Oak St., 861-0886, Jacques-Imos. com. D Mon-Sat. Reinvented New Orleans cuisine served in a party atmosphere. The deep-fried roast beef poor boy is delicious. The lively bar scene offsets the long wait on weekends. $$$$ Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St., 569-0000, L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

H La Crêpe Nanou French 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, D daily, Br Sun. Classic French bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes, are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$

Commander’s Palace Louisianian Fare 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The grande dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Award-winner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$

Lilette French 3637 Magazine St., 8951636, L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

H Magasin Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4201

265-0421, L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from chef Michael and his partner Lillian Hubbard. $$$

Magazine St., 896-7611, MagasinCafe. com. L, D Mon-Sat. Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budget-friendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $

Dick and Jenny’s Louisianian Fare 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, D Mon-Sat. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$

Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN 3827 Baronne St., 899-7411, Wine by the glass or bottle with cheeses, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $

Domilise’s Louisianian Fare 5240 Annunciation St., 899-912. L, D Mon-Sat. Local institution and rite-of-passage for those wanting an initiation to the real New Orleans. Wonderful poor boys and a unique atmosphere make this a one-of-akind place. $

Mat & Naddie’s Louisianian Fare 937 Leonidas St., 861-9600, MatAndNaddies. com. D Mon-Tue, Thu-Sat. Cozy converted house serves up creative and eclectic regionally inspired fare. Shrimp and crawfish croquettes make for a good appetizer and when the weather is right the romantic patio is the place to sit. $$$$

H Gautreau’s Louisianian Fare 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, D Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along with contemporary creations. $$$$$ Jacques-Imo’s Cafe Louisianian Fare 128

O C TO B ER 2017

By Mirella Cameran L, D daily. This Chinese destination is a real find. Along with the usual, you’ll find spicy cold noodle dishes and dumplings. One of the few local Chinese places that breaks the Americanized mold. $

La Petite Grocery French 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, L Tue-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily French-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$

Frankie & Johnny’s Seafood 321 Arabella St., 243-1234, L, D daily. Serves fried and boiled seafood along with poor boys and daily lunch specials. Kid-friendly with a game room to boot. $$

Mr. Ed’s Opens The Pearl Room

H Jung’s Golden Dragon Asian Fusion/ Pan Asian 3009 Magazine St., 891-8280,

Clancy’s Louisianian Fare 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$

H Coquette French 2800 Magazine St.,

restaurant spotlight

H Panchita’s World 1434 S. Carrollton Ave., 281-4127. L, D daily. Authentic, budget-friendly Mexican restaurant serves tamales, mole and offers free chips and salsa as well as sangria. $ Pascal’s Manale Italian 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, PascalsManale. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Vintage neighborhood restaurant since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves icy cold, freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are

m yne w

The mushrooming of Mr. Ed’s Restaurant Group, established in 1989, continues with the opening of a new location, The Pearl Room. Formerly, The Grotto, and located in the heart of River Ridge, the location has been completely renovated and now offers a modern, elegant space for weddings, corporate events and smaller parties. The combination of Mr. Ed’s eateries offers renditions of local favorites in a family-friendly, relaxed but upscale environment. The Pearl’s menu will draw from the group to offer a full range of cuisines including seafood, Italian, Creole and classic American fare.


also solid. $$$$

to try. $$$

H Patois World 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441,

St. James Cheese Company Specialty Foods 5004 Prytania St., 899-4737, Open daily. Specialty shop offers a selection of fine cheeses, wines, beers and related accouterments. Look for wine and cheese specials every Friday. L Fri, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. The food is French in technique, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron Burgau. Reservations recommended. $$$ Pizza Domenica pizza 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, L Fri-Sun, D daily. James Beard Award Winning Chef Alon Shaya’s pizza centric spinoff of his popular Restaurant Domenica brings Neapolitan-style pies to Uptown. Excellent

Sucré Specialty Foods 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311, Desserts daily & nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

salads and charcuterie boards are offered as well. $$

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/Breakfast 200 Magazine St., 525-9355; 1005 Canal St., 525-9355, B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

H Shaya World 4213 Magazine St., 891-4213, L, D daily. James Beard Award-winning chef Alon Shaya pays homage to his native Israel with this contemporary Israeli hotspot. Cauliflower Hummus and Matzo Ball Soup made with slow-cooked duck are dishes

Tracey’s Irish Restaurant & Bar AMERICAN 2604 Magazine St., 897-5413, TraceysNola. com. L, D daily. A neighborhood bar with one of the best messy roast beef poor boys in town. The gumbo, cheeseburger poor boy and other sandwiches are also winners. Grab a local Abita beer to wash it all down. Also a great location to watch the game. $

H The Company Burger Burgers 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger. com. L, D daily. Custom-baked butterbrushed buns and fresh-ground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $ The Delachaise Gastropub 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, D daily.

Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$ H Upperline AMERICAN 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger and talented chef Dave Bridges make for a winning combination at this nationally heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$

tempting dishes from across the globe’s tropical latitudes. Popular for lunch, and the after-work crowds stay well into the wee hours at this late-night hangout. $ West Bank Nine Roses Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1100 Stephen St., 366-7665, NineRosesResturant. com. L, D Sun-Tue, Thu-Sat. The extensive Vietnamese menu specializes in hot pots, noodles and dishes big enough for

H Wayfare AMERICAN 4510 Freret St., 309-0069, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Creative sandwiches and southerninspired small plates. $$ Ye Olde College Inn AMERICAN 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933. com. D Tue-Sat. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$ Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Warehouse District Lucy’s World 710 Tchoupitoulas St., 523-8995, L, D daily. The focus is on fun at this islandthemed oasis with a menu that cherry-picks

everyone to share. $$ West End Landry’s Seafood Seafood 8000 Lakeshore Drive, West End, 283-1010, L, D daily. Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Ashley McLellan at

my ne w orleans . co m

O CTO BER 2 0 1 7



Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort

Fall Weekends


all is here, and it’s time to let loose! New Orleanians always breathe a sigh of relief when fall arrives, with its breezy days and nights and an abundance of funfilled events and reasons to travel. If you’re looking for ways to spend your fall weekends, you’ll find a wealth of options among the area’s diverse offerings. For travelers, there are great destinations on water or land—from beach front vacations and teeming lakes to historic small towns brimming with arts and entertainment. Families looking for weekend entertainment in New Orleans will find festivals and food events, fun and educational tours, art exhibits and more among the following ideas for your fall weekends. Foodies across town are ready to sink their teeth into the fresh, seasonal ingredients chefs are working into their local brunch, lunch, dinner, and drink menus. Finally, shoppers won’t want to miss out on the season’s newest fashions and cool-weather shopping days perfect for strolling New Orleans’ famous streets. Fall Travel Destinations “Mum’s” the word at Bellingrath Gardens and Home in November, when it’s time for the 54th Annual Fall Outdoor Cascading Chrysanthemums show, the largest outdoor 130

O C TOB ER 2017

m yne w orl eans .com

chrysanthemum display in the nation. The Gardens and the historic Bellingrath Home will be festooned with hundreds of colorful, four-foot-long cascades of chrysanthemums on bridges and balconies and in baskets and containers. Bellingrath’s Horticultural Staff cultivates its cascade chrysanthemums from January through October. The plants are sheared every few weeks throughout the growing season in order to create fuller plants. Unlike the typical garden chrysanthemum, cascade chrysanthemums don’t come into their full glory until November. For this reason, only gardens in the Deep South are able to display these mums in outdoor settings. Bellingrath’s chrysanthemums display is set out when the blooms are at their peak; the 2017 dates are November 4-22. For hours, admission, and details, call 800-247-8420, or, beginning November 1st, check the “Mum Watch” page at There is only one Hilton Sandestin Beach Golf Resort & Spa—the ideal location for a fall getaway on Northwest Florida’s Gulf Coast. Located directly on the beach, guests marvel at spectacular sunsets over the water, enjoy delicious dining, and an abundance of resort amenities. As the largest


full-service beachfront resort hotel in the area, Hilton Sandestin Beach offers visitors all they can ask for and more with an award-winning Serenity by the Sea Spa and state-ofthe-art fitness center, indoor and outdoor pools, nearby golf, and access to the area’s best shopping. The resort also offers six on-premises dining options, including the area’s only AAA Four-Diamond steakhouse. Escape to the beach this fall and walk along the sugar-white sand, enjoy an evening cocktail next to a beachside fire pit, and fall asleep to the sound of waves splashing along the shore. Book your reservation by visiting Big Bay Lake is a one-of-a-kind planned community on Mississippi’s largest private recreational lake. Located just outside of Hattiesburg, Big Bay Lake blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Home sites are available on the water starting at $100,000. Both the homes and home sites within this community provide unique opportunities to create the perfect home or weekend getaway. It’s time to relax, unplug, make memories and create new traditions at Big Bay. Whether you are a boating or fishing enthusiast, or just a family who loves to make a big splash, Big Bay Lake is simply about the lure of the water. Come enjoy sun-kissed, fun-filled days at Big Bay Lake, where the little things make life... “BIG!” Big Bay Lake is only 90 minutes from New Orleans. Call for a boat tour today at 877-4BIG-BAY or visit As fall approaches, Natchitoches glows in harvest colors and celebrates with festivals and events, from the award-winning Characters and Customs from the Crypt Tour, to the 63rd Fall Tour of Homes, and—before you know it—Turning on the Holidays. There’s always something to enjoy in Louisiana’s oldest city. Discover the Cane River National Heritage Trail and visit the grandiose plantations. Visit the Louisiana State Museum, filled with fascinating stories, the Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame, and the New Orleans Saints 50th Anniversary Exhibit. Explore Fort St. Jean Baptiste and travel back to the 1700s. After satisfying your appetite for fun, satisfy your taste buds, too, with any of Natchitoches’ great restaurants. Whether it’s a famous meat pie, fresh seafood, or down home Creole, Italian or Southern cuisine, Natchitoches is full of flavor. This month, the iconic Lasyone’s Meat Pie Restaurant celebrates its 50th anniversary. For more destinations, travel ideas, and fall and winter events, visit Natchitoches online at  If you are in search of the elusive sound of the Mississippi Delta Blues, you will find it in Vicksburg. Live Mississippi music from the Delta Blues to country and rock can be enjoyed at venues throughout the city. Learn American history by visiting the site of the defining battle of America’s defining war at the Vicksburg National Military Park. Enjoy the southern charm of Vicksburg by strolling the brick-paved streets of its historic downtown. The fall season is the perfect time to visit this remarkable river city with great events at every corner from the pilgrimage

of homes to music festivals to races over the mighty Mississippi. Visit eclectic boutiques, art galleries, and various eateries featuring Southern specialties. Enjoy sweeping views of the Mississippi River and some of the most beautiful sunsets imaginable. Relax—it all runs on river time. For more to see and do in Vicksburg, go to or call1-800-221-3536. This month, historic St. Joseph Plantation offers its annual, sought-after “Mourning Tour,” which features the grieving and funeral customs and rituals of 18th- and 19th-century Creole Louisiana. The house will be “dressed in full deep mourning,” according to the old prescribed protocol of mourning. On the weekends of October 7-8 and October 28-29, St. Joseph Plantation features live actors portraying some of St. Joseph’s long-ago residents and the mourning customs they followed.  Both educational and entertaining, these live reenactments include portrayals of Dr. Cazemir Bernard Mericq and Josephine Aime Ferry who lived at St. Joseph on separate occasions. Regular tours are offered six days a week (closed on Wednesdays), and the guided mansion tour is one hour followed by a self-guided grounds tour. Photography of the interior is welcomed. The ground floor and gift shop are handicap accessible. For more information on St. Joseph Plantation, tours, and private events, visit or call 225-265-4078. Forty films. Four days. One wonderful town. The Fairhope Film Festival celebrates its fifth anniversary November 9-12 on the streets and screens of Fairhope, Alabama. Festival films truly represent the best of the best; every selection has been an award-winner or finalist at a major film festival in the past year. This year’s films include narrative features, documentaries, foreign films, and shorts. The Festival takes place in downtown Fairhope at several venues, all within walking distance of each other, as well as locally owned restaurants, shops, and hotels. Perched on a bluff overlooking Mobile Bay, Fairhope is a quaint, arts-oriented community that makes for an unforgettable weekend getaway. In addition to a full weekend of films, the event features a red-carpet awards gala, and panel discussions with filmmakers, actors, and industry professionals. Find more information—including film schedules, ticket prices, and event line-up—at   Cruise into Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort this October and discover “The New Way!” to get away on the Mississippi Gulf Coast! Shake, Rattle and Roll into the night for a classic Sock Hop on Friday, October 6th, 8:00pm-10:00pm. Relive the carefree days from the ’50s when poodle skirts and penny loafers ruled every high school gym in America for just $10 per person. Get spooked by the pool with a free Scary Movie Swim Night. Starting at dusk, catch Friday the 13th on Friday, October 13th. Dine on movie night classics like nachos and hotdogs, and participate in the spooky costume competition. The demon known as Krampus returns for an all-new my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



Bellingrath Gardens and Home: 54th Annual Fall Outdoor Cascading Chrysanthemums Show

Escape Room on October 5th. Back with a vengeance, you will have to find all the tools and information you need to discover a new way of escaping the evil grasp of Krampus, Part 2. Tickets are $20 per person and the room is open Thursday-Sunday, October 5th to December 31st. Visit for more events and information. Located in Northwest Florida, South Walton is continually recognized as a premier destination that boasts 26 miles of sugar-white sand, turquoise water, and 16 acclaimed beachside neighborhoods, each with its own personality and style. This fall, come relax and enjoy exquisite art, live entertainment, and fresh local blue crab prepared every way imaginable at the 30A Blue Crab Festival, October 13-15. From November 2-5, join South Walton for the Harvest Wine & Food Festival for a weekend filled with some of the world’s finest wine and Gulf-to-table culinary selections from local restaurants. Escape the busy scene for a weekend to enjoy the festivities and then pull up a beach chair for a relaxing getaway to South Walton, FL. To learn more, go to

Weekend Fun in New Orleans This season, New Orleans Opera is celebrating its 75th Anniversary. The Association was formed in 1943, but the company and opera originally date back to April 22, 1796, and will turn 222 during the city’s Tricentennial next year. Making 132

O C TOB ER 2017

m yne w orl eans .com

New Orleans “America’s First City of Opera,” New Orleans Opera will celebrate with seven new productions, giving opera audiences more choices, more venues, and as much opera as can fit into one season. New Orleans Opera Association presents three chamber operas: Maria de Buenos Aires, Piazzolla’s Tango Opera, Tabasco, George W. Chadwick’s origin story of the famous McIlhenny sauce, and Gian Carlo Menotti’s The Medium about ill-fortuned mystics. The Mainstage will present the Association’s 1943 inaugural double bill of classics Cavalleria Rusticana and Pagliacci. Orpheus in the Underworld comes next, known as Offenbach’s hilarious “everyman” opera. Then, native son Terence Blanchard’s Champion: An Opera in Jazz tells the story of boxer Emile Griffith. The season ends on a high note with a Diamond Jubilee! Stars, Stories and Opera from New Orleans Opera’s legacy in celebration of the Association’s 75th Anniversary. Reserve tickets today at and find on social media with #OperaConnects. Located in the heart of Champions Square, club XLIV is the perfect venue to host your next fundraiser. Non-profits and fundraising events receive discounted rates, and all events can opt to use an outside caterer for food service. “As a non-profit organization, we found SMG to be very accommodating to work with by allowing us to bring donated food and beverage to the event. It makes a big difference in our ability to produce a profitable event,” says Chris Kenyon of the Fore!Kids Foundation. Put a modern twist on classic New Orleans just steps away from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. From high-end furnishings and décor to illuminated bars and specialty lighting, club XLIV has everything to make your next event extraordinary. Let club XLIV put the “fun” in your next fundraiser. For booking information, please contact or call 504-587-3663. The first luxury hotel to open in New Orleans in a generation, NOPSI Hotel, New Orleans welcomes guests with a magnetic elegance and dynamic vibe that reflects the spirit and energy of the city. NOPSI, which stands for New Orleans Public Service Inc., opened in the former headquarters of the city’s power and transportation company. Originally built in 1927, the alluring nine-story building has been transformed into one of New Orleans’ most luxurious destinations. The dramatic Grand Lobby, the lively restaurant Public Service, and the shimmering rooftop pool and bar, Above the Grid, all provide a luxurious atmosphere for guests. Located in the hotel’s classic lobby, underCURRENT Bar & Patio’s iconic vaulted ceilings are the quintessential backdrop for an afternoon cocktail. Step onto the patio to enjoy the cool, crisp fall air in a timeless escape reminiscent of a French Quarter hideaway. Experience NOPSI Hotel this fall and enjoy 20 percent off rooms and 25 percent off suites. Visit or call 504-962-6500 for details and reservations.


French Quarter Phantoms Ghost & Vampire Tours are fun for visitors and locals alike. Listed as #5 in TripAdvisor’s Top Ten Ghost Tours in the World, their tours should be on everyone’s “Must Do” list. Grab a cocktail and walk along with their Master Story Tellers for a lot of great laughs and chills up your spine! Their fun, exuberant guides are passionate about entertaining guests. Year-round tours begin at 6:00pm and 8:00pm nightly and are appropriate for all ages.  For daytime fun amidst shady live oaks and grand houses, don’t miss the company’s newest walking tour of the Garden District available at 10:00 a.m. daily. Also, Saints & Sinners, a dirty little French Quarter history tour (adults only) begins at 1:00pm daily. French Quarter Phantoms offers a variety of tours throughout the day and evening. Pick your favorite, grab your friends, and have some fun. Online discounts are available through For more information, call 504-666-8300. Located in the vibrant Warehouse Arts District of downtown New Orleans, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art holds the largest and most comprehensive collection of Southern art and is recognized for its original exhibitions, public events, and educational programs that tell the story of the South through visual art. The Museum welcomes over 80,000 visitors annually and attracts diverse audiences through its broad range of exhibitions, lectures, film screenings, and concerts. Opening September 30 is Solidary and Solitary: The Joyner/Giuffrida Collection, a national tour organized by the Ogden Museum of Southern Art and The Baltimore Museum of Art, presented by The Helis Foundation. Solidary and Solitary offers a new perspective on the critical contribution black artists have made to the evolution of visual art from the 1940s to the present moment.  This year’s “O What A Night!” gala honorees are Pamela J. Joyner and Alfred J. Guiffrida, whose collection forms the basis of Solidary and Solitary. Dubbed “the Met Ball of the South,” the glamorous event takes place October 21 with a patron party on October 19. For more information on the exhibition, gala, and other events, visit With nearly a half-million objects dating to Louisiana’s earliest years and reflecting its most significant accomplishments, the Louisiana State Museum is one of the most important and comprehensive museum systems in the nation. It is Louisiana’s Smithsonian. Five museums call New Orleans’ historic French Quarter home and offer a chance to hear Louisiana’s music, discover its history, experience its culture, see how residents lived in the 1850s, and explore New Orleans’ unique architecture. Three Jackson Square sites include the Cabildo (1799), the Presbytère (1813), and 1850 House in the Lower Pontalba building. Madame John’s Legacy (1788) is the oldest example of French Creole residential architecture in the Quarter, and the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Old U.S. Mint (1838) on Esplanade Avenue is devoted to Louisiana’s rich musical heritage. Museums outside of New Orleans include the Capitol Park Museum in Baton Rouge, the Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame

and Northwest Louisiana History Museum in Natchitoches, the Wedell-Williams Aviation and Cypress Sawmill Museum in Patterson, and the E.D. White Historic Site in Thibodaux. For more information on the unique offerings of each museum, visit The Kenner Food & Wine Event comes to Chateau Golf & Country Club this October with a poolside soiree offering over a hundred wines, local flavors from dozens of restaurants, live music, and more. Benefitting the Louisiana Hospitality Foundation, the event takes place Thursday, October 12, from 6:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m. Participating restaurants include Acme Oyster House, Bravo! Cucina Italiana, Brisbi’s, Café Du Monde, Casa Garcia, Chateau Café, Deanie’s Seafood, Galatoire’s, Gendusa’s Italian Market, Joe Gambino’s Bakery, LaBella’s Catering, Restaurant Cypress, Restaurant R’evolution, Drago’s Seafood, and many more to complement the samplings from wine maker’s such as Caymus, Meiomi, Jordan, Silver Oak, Franciscan, La Crema, Sonomoa Cutrer, Justin, and more. Special discounts on wine will be offered at the event as well as enviable door prizes. Tickets run $80 and are available online at or at kwfe. The Kenner Food & Wine Event is sponsored by Kippers Communications, Angel Wings Foundation, Gulf Bank & Trust, Kenner Police Chief Michael Glaser, Councilman Dominick Impastato, Guffey Insurance, Digital Engineering, HRI Properties, and The Sisung Group. Since 1852, Fair Grounds Race Course has been a part of the cultural fabric of the wonderful city of New Orleans. With extensive experience, southern hospitality, and unique facilities, the Fair Grounds is able to make your occasion truly memorable. Whether it’s a group for “A Day at the Races,” a meeting or an evening party, Fair Grounds provides an ideal setting for your next event. A major strength is its flexibility; event settings range from elegant to casual and reception-style to sitdown with your choice of view of the racetrack or downtown New Orleans. With grounds fit for even the most special of occasions, Fair Grounds would consider it a privilege to share in any big day. Host your ceremony or reception in the Paddock and be among the many greats in history that have paraded around this historic site. For groups of 25 or more, request the Fair Grounds Race Course brochure and “Win, Place and Show” your guests an afternoon to remember. Call 504-948-1285 or email Visit online at  The Bridge City Gumbo Festival offers world-class, awardwinning gumbo. Former Governor Edwin Edwards named Bridge City “The Gumbo Capital of The World,” and the festival has now been going for over 40 years.   The Bridge City Gumbo Festival takes place in Bridge City, Louisiana, a quaint riverside community that runs along the great Mississippi River on the Westbank of Jefferson Parish. The festival serves delicious South Louisiana foods such as its famous chicken and sausage gumbo and seafood gumbo, jambalaya, and red beans and rice in addition to hamburgers, my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7




funnel cakes, and more. Great live music rocks the stage and keeps crowds dancing from open to close. Pay One Price ride specials are available throughout the festival for those looking for carnival ride excitement.  The Bridge City Gumbo Festival is among Greater New Orleans’ top festival experiences. This year’s fest takes place October 13-15. Parking is free, and entry is $3.00. Gumbo Park is located at 1701 Bridge City Ave., behind Holy Guardian Angels Church. For more information, call 504-341-9522. Culture, history, and natural beauty combine at  New Orleans City Park to create an exceptional locale for making memories. City Park is distinguished by its large menu of sports and recreational activities, attractions for children, and its natural beauty. City Park has a special place in the hearts of generations of New Orleanians and is a must-visit destination for visitors to the city. As a popular place to picnic, play sports, wander through gardens or take a boat ride, the Park receives millions of visitors each year. It is located in the heart of the city and is the largest recreation area for the entire metropolitan area. Attractions include: City Putt, New Orleans Botanical Garden, Storyland fairytale playground, Carousel Gardens Amusement Park, and numerous athletic venues. The 1,300 acres of parkland provide enjoyment for young children playing on playgrounds, and walkers, joggers, and cyclists wind through the Park’s streets and trails. The Amusement Park is fabulous entertainment for all ages with 17 rides and two cafes. For more information about New Orleans City Park, visit 134

O C TOB ER 2017

m yne w orl eans .com

B On Canal brings Self-Expression HospitalityTM to New Orleans. Located in the bustling, arts and dining filled Central Business District near the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, Tulane Medical Center, the BioDistrict, and the French Quarter, the hotel offers luxury accommodations and lively amenities. From 155 guest rooms and suites and a sultry, full-service, locally-sourced seafood restaurant with a craft cocktail bar, to the B Signature Elements including the B Indulged Spa Suite, B Active Fitness Center, FreeB Wi-Fi and a B Adventurous Program to explore the city, the hotel leaves nothing to be desired. In a city that has long been the epi-center of art, music and exploration, B On Canal serves as a the fuel to the fire and offers a destination for self-expression within a destination of vivid culture. It’s exactly where you want to “B.” For more information and reservations, visit or call 866-316-5607. The hotel is located on the edge of the French Quarter and CBD at 1300 Canal Street in New Orleans. The Ritz-Carlton New Orleans is bustling with fall and winter events, including this month’s Ghouls and Goblins Tea. On Saturday, October 28, and Sunday, October 29, bring your little ghouls and goblins along for a scary good time. Costumes are encouraged as children enjoy festive holiday themed snacks in The Davenport Lounge from 11:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. ($55 per person) On Thursday, November 23, join the Ritz-Carlton New Orleans for a Thanksgiving Day Fête from 12:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Enjoy an enhanced four-course menu featuring a seafood buffet, dessert station, unlimited champagne, and live entertainment. Reserve your table now to celebrate the gift of


the holidays with friends and family. (Adults $90, Children 12 & under $45) On select dates throughout December, children of all ages are invited to build a festive gingerbread house with a reservation of up to four guests ($140/table). Price includes one gingerbread house, decorating essentials, and holiday refreshments. Adult supervision and reservations are required. For holiday event reservations, please call 504-262-5048. Each year, Royal Sonesta New Orleans pulls out all the stops to celebrate the holidays in the heart of the French Quarter. The hotel proudly partners with Children’s Hospital of New Orleans and opens its Grand Ballroom doors to host the highly anticipated Royal Teddy Bear Tea event series, a multi-layered community outreach program that provides patients with unique and memorable experiences while supporting the hospital with meaningful financial resources and contributions.  The holidays are also an opportune time to take advantage of all Royal Sonesta New Orleans has to offer, including its Papa Noel Holiday Package. Guests receive the hotel’s best rates, starting at only $149 per night Sunday through Thursday, and from $199 per night on Friday and Saturday. Plus, all Papa Noel guests automatically receive the tremendous Sonesta Savings Pack, containing more than $500 in discounts to New Orleans’ most popular attractions and museums. Visit to book now; terms and conditions apply, based on availability. 

Brunch, Lunch, Dinner & Drinks Open Table’s #1 brunch spot in New Orleans is also listed in the Top 100 brunches in the nation. Red Gravy continues to garner designations, including being named one of the “Tops of the Town” in New Orleans Magazine. This past summer, owner Roseann Melisi Rostoker’s travels to wine country influenced new menu items at the cozy, daytime restaurant. A special brunch cocktail features an Armida Winery Zinfandel, and three new entrees are already receiving rave reviews. The Antipasto Pizza marries Sicilian pizza and an Italian sandwich with decadent soppresatta and provolone. The Breakfast Spaghetti features an Italian sausage sugo and Red Gravy’s handmade spaghetti topped with fresh ricotta and a sunny side up yard egg. The new “Need a Fork” Grilled Cheese, served on a sourdough, is filled with port salut and fontina cheeses and topped with local honey and sea salt.   “After sampling some wonderful cheeses in those wineries, I had to come up with something that would pair with a bright, mineraly chardonnay,” says Rostoker. View the menu and make your reservations online at, or call 504-561-8844. Located in the Lower Garden District and just blocks from Downtown New Orleans, Hoshun Restaurant delivers a flavorful punch of pan-Asian flavors with their own take on traditional dishes from China, Japan, Vietnam and other South-Asian countries. Popular menu items include pho soup and Vietnamese spring rolls, pad Thai, sushi, General Tsao’s Chicken, Hunan steak, Kung Pao shrimp and more. Enjoy

family-style dining in an elegant atmosphere while sharing your favorite appetizers, entrees, combination dinners, and sushi specials. Whether you’re looking for seafood, steak, or vegetarian fare, Hoshun’s extensive menu provides options for everyone. Open daily until 2:00 a.m., Hoshun is a favorite late-night spot for locals and visitors alike. Its great lunch prices and daily happy hour (3:00pm-6:00pm), make it a popular daytime destination as well. On Tuesdays, S.I.N. night extends happy hour from 10:00 p.m.-2:00 a.m. For menu and information, visit or call 504-302-9716. Located at 1601 St. Charles Ave., Hoshun offers a private party room overlooking the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line fitting between 25-70 people. In 2018, Arnaud’s Restaurant will celebrate 100 years of true New Orleans authenticity from its original, historic location in the French Quarter. With its celebrated menu of traditional Creole cuisine, its storied main dining room, and James Beard Award-winning French 75 Bar, Arnaud’s offers an unmatched New Orleans experience that celebrates the city’s culture with every sip and bite. Every Sunday, enjoy Jazz Brunch from 10:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m. with classic Dixieland jazz, sweet starters, and savory entrees. Favorites include the Creole Cream Cheese Evangeline and Eggs Fauteaux. Brunch cocktails include a selection of Arnaud’s originals like the Ojen Frappe and Lemongrass Collins. Arnaud’s Iced Coffee Grog and famous Café Brulot offer a great morning boost, too. Celebrate Thanksgiving with Arnaud’s for a truly memorable dining experience. Reservations for Arnaud’s Thanksgiving Day dining are recommended. At Arnaud’s, any occasion is cause for celebration, and its elegant private dining space is perfect for making memories with friends, colleagues, and loved ones. For more information and reservations, visit or call 504-523-5433. Cheer on your favorite team as you dine riverside at the hottest sports bar downtown. Poppy’s Time Out Sports Bar features 18 beers on tap, including loads of local brews. Poppy’s carries all of the DIRECTV sports packages and displays over 20 TVs for fans to keep up with all the excitement around the leagues. Poppy’s menu includes hand-crafted, juicy gourmet burgers are made using brisket, short rib, and ground chuck. Amazing wings, loaded nachos, and seafood poor boys round out the menu’s top picks for game-winning appetizers and entrees. Bring your entire team to Poppy’s party pavilion to watch all the action. Poppy’s Time Out Sports Bar is located in Spanish Plaza across from Harrah’s Casino at 500 Port of New Orleans, Ste. 80. Happy Hour runs Monday-Friday, 3:00 p.m.-6:00 p.m. and features daily specials. For photos, menus, party reservations and more, visit or call 504-2479265 for more information. This fall, the Warehouse District welcomes Briquette, a new restaurant at 701 S. Peters Street by Anna Tusa, Owner of New Orleans Creole Cookery, and acclaimed Chef Robert my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



Vasquez. Chef Robert Vasquez brings decades of experience in kitchens all over the world, including lauded concepts in Arizona, Bermuda, Beijing, Singapore, California, and Louisiana. Winner of the 2015 Seafood Competition at the Louisiana Seafood Expo and Silver Medal winner at the 2016 New Orleans Wine and Food Expo, Vasquez has a number of Open Table Diner Awards and appearances on national television networks. With Briquette, Vasquez puts seafood and coastal cuisine at the center of the dining experience. As the name indicates, the restaurant will feature a large charcoal grill to highlight the fresh coastal flavors. The menu will emphasize small plates for sharing the various types of fish and seafood. The bar will feature a curated wine list to accompany the menu along with specialty, handcrafted cocktails. For more information, visit Briquette online at or on Facebook. Whether you’re taking a break from wandering the French Quarter and Riverwalk or looking for a place to fuel up with drinks and fresh or fried seafood, find your feast this fall along the banks of the mighty Mississippi River at Poppy’s Crazy Lobster. Dine riverside with a fresh Steamed Seafood Bucket: a 2-lb. lobster, snow crab, shrimp, crawfish, clams, mussels, corn on the cob, potatoes, and sausage all seasoned to pure perfection. Looking to satisfy a craving for Creole favorites? New Orleans’ favorites like étouffée, jambalaya, gumbo, and red beans, along with the best fried seafood in New Orleans, are also highlights of the menu. Fall is ideal for riverside dining, and Poppy’s Crazy Lobster offers a beautiful patio with spectacular views of the Mississippi River. For a refreshing, cool, and fruity tropical cocktail, try the famous Poppy’s Voodoo Juice. Live music keeps the restaurant hopping nightly with a variety of funky musicians straight from Frenchmen Street. Poppy’s Crazy Lobster is open seven days a week from11:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m. For menu and more information, visit Call 504-569-3380 for reservations. Stop in at New Orleans Creole Cookery this fall and enjoy authentic Creole fare and the time-honored tastes of classic favorites such as Gumbo, Shrimp Creole, Crawfish Etouffee, and Snapper Pontchartrain. Autumn is perfect for patio dining and game-day specials in the Courtyard Bar. Recent winner of the 2017 Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence, New Orleans Creole Cookery also features the charming Toulouse Lautrec dining room and a lively oyster bar. Stop in for Oyster Happy Hour Monday through Friday and get your fill of $.50 raw and $1.00 chargrilled oysters with the purchase of an entrée.  Located at 510 Toulouse Street, New Orleans Creole Cookery is open seven days a week (11:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m.) for lunch and dinner with a jazz brunch on Saturday and Sunday (9:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m.). Live jazz adds to the authentic New Orleans dining experience Friday through Sunday. Learn more at Call 504-524-9632 for reservations. Consistently celebrating the bounty of the local waterways, Ralph Brennan and Red Fish Grill’s Executive Chef Austin Kirzner have been working closely with the state of Louisiana 136

O C TOB ER 2017

m yne w orl eans .com

Ralph Brennan

to continue the progressive program, Catch & Cook, uniting recreational sport fishing and restaurant industries. Headed out on the water this fall? Avid local fisherman can enjoy this feted law in Sportsman’s Paradise making it legal for licensed fish such as Redfish, Drum, Speckled Trout, Flounder or any Gulf fish caught on charter boats to be brought directly to the restaurant. Chef Kirzner and his team scale and clean it, mark it on the grill, roast it “on the half-shell,” and baste it in a variety of complementing sauces. Served with sides made from handpicked Covey Rise Farm vegetables, mashed potatoes, and variety of specialty house-made sauces. Finish with the Dessert Bomb—one of every dessert on the menu. Average cost is $75 per person for the entire package. Prepared fish a la carte runs $25 per person (exclusive of tax and gratuity). For info and reservations, visit or call 504-598-1200. The Rizzuto family’s continued resilience over generations has grown their legacy from its early beginnings as a simple Vieux Carré grocery stand, founded by their immigrant ancestors, into their new restaurant concept, Rizzuto’s Ristorante & Chop House. Savor “La Dolce Vita,” or the sweet life, through the eyes of Grandmother Lena and her old-world recipes. Indulge your senses with the flavors of Caporeale, the Sicilian village where the Rizzutos’ age-old culinary tradition


began. Let the aroma of fresh herbs invoke your sense of smell, the tannins of the wine invigorate your tastebuds, and prepare for an exquisite encounter! The Rizzuto’s Ristorante & Chop House menu proudly showcases the flavors and colors of the family’s Sicilian roots from classic Italian entrees like Shrimp Fra Diavolo and Crab & Lobster Ravioli to Prime Steaks and Chops, marrying old and new world cooking traditions. Additional highlights of the menu are Brisket Salad, Bruciuluni, Crab Pasta, and the succulent Lamb Rack. Buon Appetito! Rizzuto’s Ristorante & Chop House is located at 6262 Fleur de Lis Drive. For reservations, call 504-300-1804 or visit New Orleanians love brunch, and most locals know that no one does brunch better than The Ruby Slipper Café. The Ruby Slipper started in New Orleans’ Mid City neighborhood as a project of love and homecoming after Hurricane Katrina. The restaurant has grown to eight locations in total with five in New Orleans, two on the Gulf Coast, and one in Baton Rouge.  All of The Ruby Slipper Cafes are unique to their location. In fact, the brand categorizes each restaurant based on their specific neighborhood. In New Orleans there is Mid City, Marigny, Canal, French Quarter, and the newest restaurant located Uptown at 2802 Magazine Street. Each location boasts scrumptious breakfast, brunch, and lunch signature dishes including Eggs Cochon, Bananas Foster Pain Perdu, and Gulf Fish St. Peter. They are also known for the eye-opening cocktails, including the Bacon Bloody Mary, which just one first place at the New Orleans’ Bloody Mary Festival. No matter what neighborhood you are in, The Ruby Slipper Café makes it feel like home. Visit the Ruby Slipper online at and on Facebook.  Five Happiness, New Orleans’s award-winning Chinese restaurant, offers a delicious menu of Sichuan and Hunan specialties in a sleek and elegant dining room. Enjoy the succulent shrimp with honey-roasted pecans, General’s Chicken or asparagus sautéed with garlic sauce in a comfortable and unique setting distinguished by its authentic Chinese décor of etched glass and Chinese paintings. The dining room, now split into three rooms, provides a more private dining experience for guests. Five Happiness is available for private parties, receptions, or other functions for groups of up to 50 people. Serving options are customized for each party, ranging from sit-down dinners to buffets or cocktails with hors d’oeuvres and prices ranging from $20-$45 per person. For more information, call 504-482-3935 or visit  Amazing history, elegant old-world ambiance and delectable Creole cuisine come together at The Court of Two Sisters in the French Quarter. Located at 613 Royal Street, this oldline restaurant is where locals and visitors from around the world come to enjoy traditional Creole cuisine in the largest courtyard in the French Quarter. Dinner is a romantic,

memorable occasion. The expansive menu includes choices such as Corn Fried Louisiana Catfish with Creole mustard napa slaw, jumbo lump crabmeat, and cayenne tartar sauce or the Shrimp and Grits with Louisiana shrimp and Andouille sausage poached in a Creole meunière reduction and served over southern grits. Daily, the Jazz Brunch Buffet provides a lavish display of hot and cold dishes served alongside live Dixieland music. Reservations are recommended. This winter, enjoy a Jazz Brunch with Santa in the Royal Court Room on December 21 and 22 with seatings at 10:00 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. Advance reservations required. Each child will visit with Santa and receive a present. A special children’s buffet is set up in additional to the brunch buffet. For more information, visit or call 504-522-7261. Voted “best food in a coffeehouse” in New Orleans Magazine’s Tops of the Town for five years, Caffe! Caffe! is the place to meet for a bite or coffee and sweets this fall! Popular for their freshly made large salads and sandwiches, they are perhaps best known for their delicious soups. Every day, two soups are made fresh, ensuring you get the homemade taste of the season’s best flavors. And don’t forget about their one-ofa-kind desserts made in-house by Caffe! Caffe! bakers. You can even order their decadent cakes and pies for Thanksgiving and other holiday needs. Oh, and of course it’s also worth noting that they happen to make great coffee! Caffe! Caffe! has two locations in Metairie to serve you with breakfast now available at each location. Drop in and have a bite at 4301 Clearview Parkway or 3547 North Hullen Street. Visit them online at to view menus, hours, and more. Curio is an inspired upscale eatery where flavor is the main attraction. Located at the corner of Royal and Bienville in the heart of the French Quarter, Curio features a remarkably exciting and inventive menu that redefines culinary standards. Under the auspices of culinary marvels Steven Marsella and Executive Chef Hayley Vanvleet, Curio features an exceptional menu starting with appetizers such as succulent Steamed Whitewater Mussels in a coconut ginger broth, Tuna and Scallop Carpaccio, and Sweet and Spicy Pork Ribs. For your entrée, experience perfectly prepared seafood, beef, and poultry options like the Cane Syrup Glazed Beef Short Rib, Vegetable Curry, Chicken Clemenceau, Coriander Blackened Redfish, and much more. Then complete your dining experience with phenomenal desserts like S’more Brownie Pie, fresh Lemon Curd ice cream and the incomparable Tres Leche Bread Pudding. Open for lunch, dinner, brunch, and with a quick prepackaged, fresh, carry-out menu, it is the one spot in the Quarter that you will not want to miss.  Find out more at or by calling 504-717-4198. Tommy’s Cuisine in the fabulous Warehouse District combines the quintessential New Orleans reverence for fine ingredients with artfully concocted combinations to create a truly world-class dining experience. At Tommy’s, Creole Italian fare is taken to the next level with entrees like succulent my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



Five Happiness

Roast Duck Tchoupitoulas, Filet of Fish Maison, Crabmeat Sardou, or the incomparable Chicken Rosamarino. Experience sensational appetizers like Crabmeat Canapes and Baked Oysters or Escargots simmered in vermouth. Perfectly pair your meal with Tommy’s exceptional wine list, which runs the gamut from amazing to sublime. Tommy’s is located at 746 Tchoupitoulas Street, just a short walk from the galleries of Julia Street, several museums, and the New Orleans Arena and Mercedes Benz Superdome. Whether your destination for a date night on the town or a relaxing and elevated after-work meal, enjoy the decadence that comes with the expertly prepared New Orleans cuisine at Tommy’s. For menus, reservations, and more information, visit or call 504-581-1103. As the New Orleans heat cools down, Galatoire’s “33” Bar & Steak is the perfect place for fall celebrations. This Halloween, join Galatoire’s for the annual Veuve Clicquot Yelloween event on Friday, October 28. Guest can revel the day and night away in elaborate costumes while enjoying Veuve Clicquot bottle and glass specials, hand-crafted cocktails, and more. There’s also no better place to enjoy food and family then at Galatoire’s with their first-ever Thanksgiving celebration featuring traditional holiday dishes and Galatoire’s classics. And don’t forget fall football food and drink specials at Bar “33.” Whatever the occasion, Galatoire’s provides the perfect atmosphere for any celebration. Looking to host an event or holiday party? Galatoire’s private dining spaces are paired with balconies that have the best 138

O C TOB ER 2017

m yne w orl eans .com

views of Bourbon Street, where you and your guests can enjoy Galatoire’s impeccable food and award-winning hospitality. For more information, call 504-335-3933. Everyone aspires to leave a legacy. Or at least they should, right? When you walk into a Legacy Kitchen, you will see it decorated with symbols of American artists and personalities, all of whom left a lasting legacy. New Orleans bred, American inspired, Legacy Kitchen is built to last with delicious food and cocktails that celebrate the cuisine of America. Offering deliciously refined American fare with crafted cocktails to complement your meal, Legacy Kitchen aspires daily to champion their own legacy. The menu features fresh ingredients, cooked to order, highlighting the best flavors from this great nation. The restaurant features American distilleries and wineries. Original paintings don the walls and feature local artists’ interpretations of the nation’s flag. Dine to the music of American artists who have left their own legacy. Menu favorites include sandwiches such as the perfectly cooked Legacy Burger and the Big Island Chicken sandwich and entrees such as BBQ Back Ribs and the Red Fish St. Charles. Lunch specials are offered daily, 11:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m. For menus, locations, and more, visit This summer, stop by any of the Tropical Isles, home of the Hand Grenade®, New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink® and the Hand Grenade® Martini. Also, enjoy a Hand Grenade® at Funky Pirate Blues Club or Bayou Club. Experience Trop Rock, Cajun/Zydeco, and the Blues, with Tropical Isle’s nightly


entertainment, the best on Bourbon. State-of-the-art sound systems plus great live bands will keep you dancing the night away at Tropical Isle Bourbon, Tropical Isle Original, Little Tropical Isle, Funky Pirate, and the Bayou Club. While there, ask about the Hand Grenade® Martini! Enjoy big screen TVs at Funky Pirate, Bayou Club, Tropical Isle Bourbon, and Top of the Trop. For more on Tropical Isle, visit For a quiet escape, visit local favorite The Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro right off of Bourbon at 720 Orleans Avenue, which has more than 200 varieties of wine by the bottle and plenty of wine by the glass, plus a Bacon Happy Hour. For sample menus and wine lists, visit

Shopping for the Season For artist Stephen Brauner, New Orleans is both a steady and steadfast muse. As a kid, Brauner didn’t quite understand the allure of his hometown, but as an adult, he feels compelled to be an artistic voice for the city’s traditions through paintings and art that make sense of the cultural mystique of American’s most European city. “For over thirty years, I was satisfied working in trades like electrical, cabinetmaking, x-ray service, and construction. They were weaving an unconscious thread of experience within me that would one day connect to my art,” says Brauner. After Hurricane Katrina, something clicked inside him, persuading him to join the renaissance of the city through art, even without formal training. Brauner’s work is characterized by unexpected blends of imagery and material. The more seemingly mundane, the more power it has to speak. Brauner’s work is available at Boundless, 1511 Metairie Road. For information, call  504-309-8628. Twenty years ago, owner and designer Candice Gwinn moved from New Orleans to Georgia to open her first Trashy Diva boutique in the historic French Quarter. Trashy Diva’s four locations across the city and two Atlanta locations provide women of all shapes and sizes with impeccably tailored, meticulously designed pieces to transcend fashion fads, ranging from sizes 0-24. Visit their newly renovated Magazine Street Clothing and Lingerie Boutiques for a fresh, new shopping experience with tons of brand-new arrivals for fall. From unique dresses to luxury lingerie to retro-inspired shoes, Trashy Diva offers a highly curated selection of clothing and accessories to complete your fall look.   The Lingerie Boutiques have everything you need to build a variety of Halloween looks, including corsets, petticoats, jewels, and more. Planning a fall wedding? Be sure to schedule your private lingerie shopping party with the divas to get everything you need for your big day. For more information visit A. Renée Boutique is celebrating its 2nd anniversary in October 2017 and wants to thank all their local clients and visitors for their love and support. “You have made our second year such a success, and your support is so appreciated,” says April Renée, Owner.

A. Renée Boutique’s mission is to be a store for women looking to make a statement through personal image and create a style that is uniquely theirs. The boutique carries women’s sizes from XS-XL (and XXL in many styles) and feature sexy, unique, funky, classy, elegant styles with vibrant colors and fabulous fabrics. Renée seeks out the most unique fashions and features new designers every season.  From baby boomers and young professionals to those out there making things happen—from the founders of the working woman force, who always wore heels and dressed to kill, to women reinventing themselves and making new impressions—fashion is for women who deserve to be seen, admired, and revered.   A. Renée Boutique is located in the French Quarter at 824 Chartres Street. Visit or call 504-4181448 for more information. Follow on Facebook and Instagram. Now in its 48th year, locally based Auraluz offers one-of-akind gifts and children’s clothing, including its own Auraluz signature, hand-embroidered clothing brand. It is the perfect one-stop-shop with items for occasions like christenings, first birthdays, weddings, and anniversaries. Product offerings range from dolls, plush, books and toys, to candles, personal care, home, and locally themed items. This fall welcomes an expanded selection of kitchen tools/accessories and Lampe Berger fragrance products. Centrally located in Metairie, just one block from Clearview and West Esplanade, Auraluz occupies a freestanding building with plenty of parking, which makes it a great spot for stressfree shopping. Auraluz also offers easy online ordering through, complete with a baby-bridal-gift registry. The store is open 10:00 a.m.-5:30 p.m., Monday through Friday, and 10:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m. on Saturday. Auraluz is located at 4408 Shores Drive in Metairie. For more information, call 504-888-3313 or visit Shoppers looking for fall style that combines natural beauty with eco-friendliness and superior function will want to visit Queork, located in two of New Orleans most popular neighborhood shopping areas, the French Quarter and Magazine Street. Queork is locally owned and specializes in fine handbags, shoes, and accessories for fashion, home, and office that are made from natural cork fabric, which has the look and feel of a soft leather but has the fabulous qualities of being water, scratch, and stain resistant.  Cork fabric comes from the same raw material as wine corks—the outer bark of the cork oak tree, mainly grown in the Mediterranean. Once the bark is removed, the tree is left to regrow its bark before it is harvested again. This process takes place every 9-12 years, which makes the tree live longer, typically anywhere from 250-300 years. Cork is not only beautiful; it is also one of the most sustainable products in the world. Visit Queork in the French Quarter and on Magazine Street to learn more. From handbags, wallets, belts, bowties, boots, jewelry, aprons, hats, etc.—there’s something for everyone at Queork. •

my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



malignancies and blood disorders in children. Children’s Hospital also received accreditation from the Department of Health and Human Services as a federally recognized Hemophilia Treatment Center (HTC), to provide state-of-the-art comprehensive multispecialty care to Louisiana children with all types of bleeding disorders. For more information, contact Children’s Hospital’s Cancer Center at 504-896-9740 or

Cancer Care


ctober is breast cancer awareness month, when pink ribbons dominate the décor at awareness events, fundraisers and walks, and professional athletes don pink cleats, wristbands, and other gear. As we are reminded of the importance of breast cancer awareness this month, let’s also be cognizant of screenings and treatments that can protect and affect us all from every type of cancer. The region is stocked with award-winning cancer centers, hospitals, and clinics whose specialists offer expert knowledge and the treatments needed to beat this prevalent disease. This fall, make a point to find out what screenings and preventative measures you can employ to keep a cancer diagnosis at bay. If you or someone you love is facing cancer treatment, rest assured you can seek quality help here at home.

Cancer Centers The LaNasa-Greco Center for Cancer and Blood Disorders at Children’s Hospital treats more than 1,100 children with cancer or blood disorders each year, more than all other facilities in Louisiana combined. The hospital provides treatment and transplantation for children with leukemia, lymphoma, sickle cell anemia, hemophilia, and other childhood cancers and blood disorders. Children’s Hospital’s Cancer Program is accredited with an outstanding achievement award by the American College of Surgeons and is a member of the Children’s Oncology Group (COG), a national study group of premier research institutes in the United States and Canada. The Bone Marrow Transplant Program is FACT-accredited since 2008. Hospital physicians have access to the most modern therapies for treatment of 140

O C TOB ER 2017

m yne w orl eans .com

The Cancer Center of Thibodaux Regional, located in Lafourche Parish, provides a full range of cancer treatments and services, complemented by strong emotional, lifestyle, and educational support. The Center is accredited with Gold Level Commendation by the American College of Surgeons Commission on Cancer and is the only program in Louisiana to receive the College’s Outstanding Achievement Award four times.   The Center utilizes the latest technology, allowing patients to experience many benefits including earlier and more precise diagnosis, detection of small tumors, avoidance of invasive procedures, fewer side effects, and better chances for a positive outcome. The Patient Care Coordinator helps ensure all patients with positive pathology receive information and assistance to help them obtain timely diagnosis, treatment, if necessary, and follow up. Patients also receive the best in support services, including consultation with a registered dietician, emotional support via individual or group counseling, and Home Health Services when needed. For more information about the Cancer Center of Thibodaux Regional, visit As Louisiana’s only MD Anderson affiliated hospital, East Jefferson General Hospital (EJGH) has access to the latest treatment protocols/plans used by the cancer center voted #1 by US News and World Report. But beyond that affiliation, EJGH’s outcomes and commitment to personalized care separate it from any other cancer center in the region. Stateof-the-art technologies allow the hospital to treat prostate, head and neck, breast, and other cancers in ways that are more successful and patient friendly than ever before. EJGH’s Cancer Care Navigators give patients someone to turn to in setting appointments, understanding treatments/ medicines, and helping the patient concentrate on only one thing: getting better. Most of all, the hospital’s oncology division is comprised of physicians, nurses, and ancillary staff who choose to work in the unique and ever-changing field of fighting cancer. These individuals thrive on helping people through their toughest challenge and seeing them beyond treatment to being cancer free. That commitment from EJGH’s team to each patient is the reason the hospital was voted the #1 hospital in Louisiana for Medical Outcomes.  Find out more about EJGH offerings at Breast Cancer Advances Hidden Scar™ Breast Cancer Surgery, an advanced treatment expanding options for women undergoing breast surgery, is now available at Touro. 


Each year, approximately 405,000 women are diagnosed with breast cancer that requires surgery. Many women are unaware of all the surgical options available, including minimally invasive surgeries. Hidden Scar™ Breast Cancer Surgery is an advanced approach in which breast surgeons remove cancerous tissue through a single incision made in inconspicuous areas to minimize visible scarring. By utilizing this approach, surgeons can preserve a natural-looking breast by sparing the nipple, areola, and surrounding tissue. Patients who undergo this approach are at no higher risk of recurrence than patients who undergo any other type of technique. Hidden Scar™ Breast Cancer Surgery is appropriate for a wide range of breast cancer patients undergoing nipple sparing mastectomy or breast conserving procedures. Learn more about Hidden Scar™ Breast Cancer Surgery at Integrative Medicine Infinite Health Integrative Medicine Center is empowered medicine for the body, mind, and soul. Every day, their comprehensive patient-centric approach to optimized health and longevity offers cancer patients optimized metabolic support and reduction of risk occurrence while receiving ongoing cancer therapies. Infinite Health is happy to file claims for the insurance covered portion of their care to most private insurances, including Medicare (with the exception of Humana HMO

Medicare). There is an additional mind-body program investment required to cover the services that Infinite Health provides that insurance does not cover. Infinite Health is located at 3900 Veteran’s Memorial Parkway, Suite 204 in Metairie. To schedule an initial consultation, call 504-323-0025 or visit Consultations are available by appointment only. Hospice Care Anyone looking for compassionate and dignified care for their terminally ill loved ones should take a look at the services offered by Canon Hospice. The caring team at Canon is dedicated to a hospice ministry that helps patients and families accept terminal illness positively and resourcefully. Their stated goal is to “allow our patients to live each day to the fullest and enjoy their time with family and friends.” With special expertise in pain management and symptom control, Canon Hospice designs individualized plans of care for each patient based on their unique needs. Home Based Services provide doctors, nurses, social workers, pastoral care and volunteers.  For patients with more intensive symptom management needs, Canon has an Inpatient Hospice Unit. This unit provides 24-hour care in a home-like environment where patients are permitted to receive visits at any hour. For more information, visit or call 504-818-2723. •

my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



Specialty Medicine


ou don’t need to see a specialist for every health concern you encounter, but when you do, it’s nice knowing there’s someone available who understands the ins and outs of whatever problem you’re experiencing. From urological issues like prostate cancer and overactive bladder to issues of the teeth and gums, there are specialists who can help diagnose and treat any manner of health problem. The following businesses and healthcare providers have grown out of a unique drive to better understand specific aspects of science and the body. Today, these professionals and specialists are helping patients like you get to the bottom of your body’s pinpointed issues and find solutions that lead to positive health outcomes. Check out some of the many specialists located across Greater New Orleans in the areas of Urology, Periodontics, Fertility and more. Urology Has someone you love been diagnosed with prostate cancer, kidney cancer or bladder cancer? The Department of Urology at Tulane University Medical Center, a national leader in providing minimally invasive surgical procedures for various urologic maladies, stands at the forefront of cancer treatment through state-of-the-art robotic procedures, breakthrough treatments, and research. Tulane Urology is proud to be recognized as the first and most experienced robotic urologic surgical center in the entire Gulf South. Using the daVinci high-definition robot, Tulane Urology’s expertly trained surgeons offer patients a highly advanced therapeutic option for cancer treatment. This cutting-edge, minimally invasive surgical technology, combined with the extensive experience of the Tulane Urology team, has made Tulane Urology the go-to center for the treatment of prostate, bladder, and kidney cancers. Visit and for more information on the various treatments and procedures offered at Tulane Urology. Call 504-988-2536 to schedule an 142

O C TOB ER 2017

m yne w orl eans .com

appointment or get a second opinion today. Patients of Urology & Urologic Surgery, the practice of Dr. Stephanie Hughes, enjoy friendly, caring staff, and quickly accommodated appointments in a more personal office setting. As a general urologist, Dr. Hughes specializes in all urologic problems, including enlarged prostate, incontinence, erectile dysfunction, low testosterone, kidney stones, recurrent urinary tract infections, and cancers of the prostate, bladder, kidney, and other urologic organs.  Board certified in Urology, Dr. Hughes focuses in large part on treating and preventing kidney stones as well as treating voiding dysfunction such as overactive bladder and enlarged prostates. Urology & Urologic Surgery treats patients on both sides of Lake Pontchartrain and offers same-day and next-day appointments. The practice offers in-office procedures for enlarged prostates (BPH) and overactive bladder. For Metairie appointments, call 504-887-5555, and for Covington appointments, call 985-892-8088. For more information, visit Periodontics At The Perioclinic, Dr. Hisham Nasr and Dr. A. Margarita Sáenz practice a full scope of periodontics with expertise in replacement of teeth with dental implants that look, feel, and function like natural teeth. Their expertise also includes laser bone regeneration for the treatment of periodontitis and cosmetic periodontal surgery, including covering exposed root surfaces, elongation of short appearing teeth, and correction of uneven smiles.  Drs. Nasr and Sáenz are among an elite group of periodontists who, through additional examinations and clinical documentations, have achieved the highest level in the specialty by becoming board certified as diplomats of the prestigious American Board of Periodontology. At the Perioclinic, flexible scheduling can accommodate


same-day surgery and emergencies. The Perioclinic’s highly skilled, multilingual, caring, and compassionate staff is dedicated to providing the best possible patient experience. The Perioclinic is conveniently located in Old Metairie across from St. Francis Xavier Church & School. To schedule an appointment or for more information, please call 504-831-0800 or visit Fertility Since 1977, New Orleans has been home to one of the nation’s leading, state-of-the-art clinics specializing in new infertility treatment. The Fertility Institute has nearly 40 years of successful in vitro fertilization (IVF) and continues to be recognized for its excellence by peers and health insurance companies providing benefits for infertility and IVF. Employing traditional treatments and the latest advances in reproductive technology, including IVF, intracytoplasmic sperm injection (ICSI), preimplantation genetic screening (PGS) and diagnosis (PGD), and cryopreservation of eggs, they offer hope for families who have trouble conceiving or who have genetic abnormalities that may cause a difficult quality of life for a child. The Fertility Institute is a pioneer in the Gulf South and the first to perform IVF in the region and achieve a pregnancy with its first IVF. With a team of five physicians and additional staff, the Fertility Institute has accomplished over 17,000 pregnancies from all forms of fertility treatment, including for

those who have suffered from recurrent miscarriages. Offices are located in Mandeville, Metairie, and New Orleans with the addition of an IVF laboratory in Baton Rouge. Schedule appointments at 1-800-375-0048. Visit Pharmacies Generations of families have turned to Patio Drugs for assistance in managing their healthcare needs. Family owned and operated since 1958, Patio Drugs helps customers understand their medications, both prescription and over-thecounter, and provides free prescription delivery throughout East Jefferson. A full-service pharmacy and the oldest independent pharmacy in Jefferson Parish, Patio Drugs is also a leading provider of home medical equipment. For everything from a Band-Aid, to medication, to a hospital bed, Patio Drugs is the one-stop source for your family’s healthcare needs. In addition to providing retail and medical equipment, Patio Drugs can assist with long- term care and infusion needs as well as specialty and compounding services. Patio Drugs is accredited by The Joint Commission in Home Medical Equipment, Long Term Care and Home Infusion Pharmacy and Consultant Pharmacy Services. Their Compounding Pharmacy is PCAB accredited through ACHC. Patio Drugs is located at 5208 Veterans Blvd. in Metairie. For more information, call 504-889- 7070. Patio Drugs, “Large Enough to Serve You, Yet, Small Enough to Know You.” •

my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



Community Resources


n Greater New Orleans, there’s a lot of pride surrounding community. We support one another in times of need, we maintain friendships with old classmates and neighbors, and we stay engaged with the vast cultural offerings that help us define our home. Sometimes community is based on where we live, and sometimes it’s based on how we live. From choosing your neighborhood to choosing your home and lifestyle, there are a lot of options and resources for locating or improving the place you call home. Whether improving your location, energy efficiency, or safety, there are various local businesses and organizations ready to offer up assistance. And while some want to improve their literal living space, still others are focused on improving the larger home that is our city. Here are a few local people and businesses aiming towards “home” improvement. Home Resources & Real Estate When people hear the term “energy efficiency,” they often relate it to the financial benefit alone. Investing in an energy efficiency plan does much more than save money; it can maximize your family’s comfort, improve your home’s air quality, and uncover any potential health or safety concerns. The Diversified Energy DE-360 Energy Audit analyzes every aspect of your home, including heating/cooling, insulation levels, air infiltration, windows/doors, and passed/forced duct leakage to create a custom comfort plan for your family. As experts in the Gulf South’s hot, humid climate, Diversified Energy’s BPI certified professionals are the region’s most qualified home performance auditors and contractors, providing residential energy efficiency testing and home performance contracting and weatherization across Louisiana and the entire Mississippi Gulf Coast. “Plug into comfort” by contacting Diversified Energy at 504273-7779 or visit today. 1st Lake Properties continues to redefine suburban living with the addition of brand new luxury apartment communities in River Ridge and Covington. As a long-time locally owned 144

O C TOB ER 2017

m yne w orl eans .com

business, 1st Lake takes prides in continuing its 47-year tradition of providing high-quality apartment homes to the Greater New Orleans area. With properties in Kenner, Metairie, River Ridge, Mandeville, Covington, Slidell and even Mississippi, the perfect apartment is right around the corner. As the leader in multi-family developments, 1st Lake offers an unrivaled living experience. Not only can residents rent fully furnished apartments—many of which are luxury—they can enjoy top notch amenities like granite countertops, access gates, free off-street parking, pools, fitness centers, washers/dryers, and flex space. Concierge-style services like dry cleaning and bike sharing are also available. With an emphasis on customer service, 1st Lake provides onsite management and service teams. Conveniently, residents may pay rent and submit service requests online, while taking advantage of the resident rewards program that offers deals to local businesses.  For more information on their brand new communities or on any of their 9,500 apartments, corporate apartments and applications, visit Whether you are across the globe or across town, you can check your phone and see that your home is safe. Louisiana Alarm Watch, a locally owned company, installs security and camera systems designed to give you access wherever you have an internet connection. Along with arming and disarming your system, you can unlock a door, check your thermostat or turn on your porch lights. You can also see your door from a single camera or your entire home from a high definition camera system. Louisiana Alarm Watch can add an interactive communicator to your existing security system or install a new security system with increased functionality to meet your needs. For customers with an existing camera system, Louisiana Alarm Watch can upgrade the recorder and cameras to HD while using the wiring from your existing system. For a free security consultation, call 504-780-8775 or visit Community Leadership New Orleans native, Dr. Tom Albert was raised in the Lower 9th and New Orleans East before living in Mid-City and the French Quarter. A Brother Martin graduate, he received his B.S. and M.D. degrees from LSU with additional diplomas from the University of Texas and Ohio State. While LSU faculty in high-risk obstetrics, he was counseled against a solo practice of his specialty. Despite the odds, Dr. Albert built a large and successful private solo medical practice. Dr. Albert has cared for many people and many families, and now he wants to serve the families of his native city as mayor with a vision for a culturally rich New Orleans also rich in quality of life for its residents. He is running on a platform of change: safe, smooth streets and a road to the future based on highest-quality education and a growing job market. Dr. Albert was inspired to enter politics by his father, an NOPD captain who gave his life in the line of duty, and by the late, constituent-centered US Congresswoman Lindy Boggs. To learn more and lend your support, visit •

my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7





Expert Palate

Rosé All Day A tasting of wine through rose-colored glasses by KELLY MASSICOT


t’s said that “real men wear pink,” but do real men, and women, drink pink-colored wine? Robert Haynes of Tasting Tuesday and The Haynes Consulting Group thinks everyone should enjoy a little wine, especially rosé. “I personally like to think that rosé is a conversation piece,” Haynes said. “It’s one of the most approachable styles of wine and a year-round staple in New Orleans.” When I first approached Haynes, after seeing his curated tastings popping up on social media, I had no idea that rosé would be the focus of our gathering. When he let us know that would be the theme, I realized just how little I knew about this type of wine. “In the technical sense,” Haynes explained, “rosé comes from the actual skin of the red grape making contact with the juice of the grape.” Our curated tasting at the


O C TOB ER 2017

Vintage Arts Center on Magazine Street included wines from throughout the world. For example, when we first arrived, just in time for happy hour, Haynes had a sparkling rosé from Graham Beck in South Africa. The tasting began with Haynes giving a short introduction on himself, the process of making rosé and why it’s becoming more popular around the city. He described the seven types of rosé, the multitude of various flavors and colors you could find, and then we dove straight in to the four different rosés he had picked for us to try. The first, and my personal favorite, was Domaine de la Bastide from the Rhone Valley of France. He noted that this and other rosés from Rhone all typically had a savory and fruit element. This particular one giving hints of peach. I think the fruity, light

m yne w orl eans .com

flavor is what made it most attractive to me. The most exciting rosé to try was the Chateau Kefraya ‘Myst’ Rosé from Bekaa Valley, Lebanon. I have never tried wine from the Middle East and was intrigued by the different flavor opportunities this area could produce. “Rosés from this part of Lebanon have a really nice minerality to them,” Haynes said. “They are perfect to shuck some oysters with and have a glass or two.” It had a bite to it and was unlike any wine I have tasted before, with an unusal after-taste that I really liked. The next two were Moulin De Gassac Guilhem from LanguedocRoussillon in southern France and Casal Garcia from Portugal. Each were not a rosé I would turn down again – let’s be honest, I would never turn down a rosé – but they were personally less intriguing than the first two.

Haynes has had a long journey with wine and shares his experiences through numerous events with Tasting Tuesdays, which he was inspired to create after Daniel Victory asked him to hold tastings at Drink Lab Nola. His company The Haynes Consulting Group is a food and beverage-related company that offers consulting for restaurants, standalone bares, hotels and even if you’re just in need of a quick wine suggestion. “We have decided to bridge the gap and offer our clients the ability to have a consult via text message,” says Haynes. The group has even added weddings to its repertoire. You can follow all things Tasting Tuesdays and Haynes Consulting Group at and

The entire tasting, from the location to the choice of wine, was a delightful experience that I cannot wait to try again. Haynes is intuitive and knowledgeable when it comes to the subject of wine and spirits, and you’re sure to walk away with a new favorite and a few fun facts and information you didn’t know before. I recommend booking a tasting like this rosé tasting or other wines and spirits. Too often people order the wrong wine for them out of ignorance of the product. In a wine-loving city like New Orleans, it’s always a good idea to be knowledgeable about what drink suits your palate. And yes, rosé was consumed in the making of this article. •




Dr. Black Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery Opens Dr. Elliott B. Black, III and Dr. Summer Black, board certified plastic surgeons, have just opened a new office in Metairie. Offering the latest technology and treatments, Drs. Black have extensive experience in surgical procedures, and also provide numerous nonsurgical treatments. In the serene, spa-like environment, patients can discuss options such as vein removal, improved skin texture, as well as BOTOX(R), dermal fillers and non-invasive fat removal. Dr. Black Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery, 3798 Veterans Blvd, Suite 100, Metairie, 603-3601,

Fall in love with Fall at Sandestin Summer may be over, but the good times are not. The slightly cooler fall temps make it a perfect time to visit the beach, and Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort is currently offering a 30 percent discount on a three night stay. There are also fun events almost every weekend leading up to the holidays, including the resort’s Wine Festival in mid-November. This year, on November 18, there is a special “Sparkling Wine and Lights” event, where guests can enjoy holiday lights while tasting a range of featured champagnes, all accompanied by a balmy breeze. (877)398-8457, By Mirella Cameran

my n e w or l e a n s . com

OCTOBE R 2 0 1 7



Roffignac The mayor and the cocktail


ompared to the guillotine, moving to Louisiana didn’t seem to be such a bad choice. That was the plight of Count Louis Philippe Joseph de Roffignac, a native of Angouleme, France who, in 1766, was born with royal blood. His godfather and godmother were the reigning Duke and Duchess of Orleans. Their son would become King Louis Philippe. In this, a mayoral election year, Roffignac provides one of our favorite tales - a saga involving royalty, politics, booze and maybe even conspiracy. Being royalty might have brought some peer advantage when Roffignac was growing up, but not so much by the 1790s when Frenchmen became preoccupied with revolution. In 1800 Spain ceded Louisiana to France, and that was all Louis needed to hop 168

O C TOB ER 2017

the next boat to the new world. Any guy whose godparents are nicknamed Orleans would have to be considered a fast social climber in a frontier town named after the family. That was the case with Louis who became a state legislator, a bank director and then mayor of New Orleans, a job he held for two uninterrupted terms from 1820 to 1828. He is remembered as being one of the city’s best mayors. During his administration, levees were extended, Royal and Orleans Streets were paved and parts of downtown were, for the first time, illuminated with gas lamps. The city’s first fire department was established, as was the beginning of a public school system. He raised money to plant trees, the forerunner of today’s shady avenues. He also

m yne w orl eans .com

by errol laborde

kept interesting company, having hosted both Andrew Jackson and the Marquis de Lafayette. For all his accomplishments, however, Roffignac would also be remembered for two things. He was the city’s last French-born mayor, but, most of all, a local alcoholic drink would carry his name. Just how the Roffignac came to be named after the former mayor is unclear, but the drink was on bar menus long after the mayor’s time and into the era when the nightlife blazed with electric lights instead of lanterns. Possibly the name traces back to there having been a brand of cognac named Roffignac made in the old country. Ok, here’s the tricky part. Early local-centric recipes were popularized by a Royal Street place called Mannissiers, which lasted from the late 1800s to 1914. In addition to its confections, the place liked to specialize in creative drinks long before the term “craft cocktail” came into use. Vintage Roffignac cocktail recipes combined cognac, some sort of raspberry flavoring along with simple syrup and seltzer.  Now here we experience an evolutionary moment: New Orleans, where barrel-laden boats drifted down from Kentucky and Tennessee, was a whiskey-drinking town more so than it drank uppity cognac. Gradually it became common to replace the cognac with the upriver hooch. Served with ice in an Old Fashioned glass, the drink is a local version of the genre of slow sipping cocktails. Gradually the drink was forgotten about, all except at Maylie’s the old Creole Restaurant that lasted from 1876 to1986. When Maylie’s closed, so did the public life of the Roffignac. At some point, the whiskey would be replaced by

brandy, and the raspberry syrup was swapped for one of several reddish ingredients, the most poplar being grenadine, a pomegranate mix. Like music and foods, all drinks adjust with times. So at this stage in the evolutionary process, what can one say is the proper contemporary Roffignac? For this I defer to my friend Maureen Detweiller whose mission is to preserve the Roffignac, which she makes better than anyone: Maureen’s Roffignac 1 1/2 ounces rye whiskey 1/2 ounce brandy 1 ounce grenadine Twist of lemon Pour ingredients into an ice filled tumbler. Garnish with twist of lemon. As for the former mayor, his story should have had a happier ending, but it did not. Roffignac returned to France after his stint as mayor, though with little joy. He reportedly complained to a friend from New Orleans that he regretted leaving the city. Perhaps it is better to be a former mayor in New Orleans then to be a former count in France. The circumstances of his death, at 80 in 1846 at his chateau near Perigeueux, France sound suspect to me, but here’s the family version: One evening he was seated in an “invalid chair” examining a loaded pistol when he was suddenly seized by an apoplectic stroke and fell to the floor. The fall triggered the pistol, which sent a bullet into his head. He died instantly. At the time of his death Louis Philippe Joseph de Roffignac was said to be preparing for a return visit to New Orleans. It was a tragic end, but a good life: one worth lifting a toast to, either with raspberry or grenadine. • ARTHUR NEAD Illustration

Profile for Renaissance Publishing

New Orleans Magazine October 2017  

New Orleans Magazine October 2017  

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded