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july 2019 / VOLUME 53 / NUMBER 7 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Ashley McLellan Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Writers Mary Lou Eichhorn, Fritz Esker, Kathy Finn, Dawn Ruth Wilson, Jason Berry, Carolyn Kolb, Chris Rose, Eve Crawford Peyton, Mike Griffith, Liz Scott Monaghan, Lee Cutrone, Dale Curry, Jay Forman, Tim McNally, Robert Peyton Digital Media Editor Kelly Massicot Social Media Assistant Becca Miller Staff Writers Topher Balfer, Kelly Massicot, Melanie Warner Spencer Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan Advertising Sales Manager Kate Henry (504) 830-7216 / Kate@MyNewOrleans.com Account Executives Meggie Schmidt, Rachel Webber Director of Marketing and Events Jeanel Luquette Event Coordinator Abbie Dugruise Digital Media Associate Mallary Matherne For event information call (504) 830-7264 Production Manager Emily Andras Production Designers Rosa Balaguer, Meghan Rooney Special Projects Art Director Molly Tullier Patty Traffic Coordinator Lane Brocato Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive Vice President Errol Laborde Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Mallary Matherne Subscriptions Manager Brittanie Bryant WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 MyNewOrleans.com

For subscription information call (504) 828-1380

New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2019 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

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Contents Local Color Marquee Top Picks for July 20 On the Cover: Justine Burger withfrites at Justine, Our Best of the Best New Restaurant Photographed by Sam Hanna

Persona Poppy Tooker 22

Education A Fresh Coat of Paint 24

Chris Rose The Advocate Takes A Pick 26

Modine Gunch Showing Your Wits 28

Joie d’Eve Ruby Reps Roller Derby 30

In Tune Live and Local 32

Jazz Life Jason Berry: A Curtain Call 34

Home From Catalog to Custom 36

78 Summer fun without the sun, p. 58

Features

In Every Issue

Best New Restaurants

Inside

Our Top Picks 40

The Poor Boy That Might Have Been 10

Summer Fun Without the Sun

Speaking Out

A/C Oases 58

Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon 14

Julia Street Questions and Answers About Our City 16

Streetcar A Dirge from the Pantheon 112

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DIAL 12, D1 Season 4 of MASTERPIECE “Grantchester” premieres Sunday, July 14 at 8:00 p.m. Tom Brittney joins the cast as Reverend Will Davenport. James Norton, who plays the charismatic, jazz-loving clergyman Sidney Chambers, makes his final appearance during the series. For all WYES program and event details, visit wyes.org.

The Menu Table Talk Morrow’s Restaurant 74

Restaurant Insider News from the Kitchen 76

Food A Summer Harvest 78

Last Call Flocktails Have Landed! 80

Dining Guide Listings by Neighborhood 82


inside

The Poor Boy That Might Have Been I once gave the operator of

a poor boy shop an idea that, had he followed it, he would have had to hire security guards to keep the line of customers calm as they waited to place their orders. His profit would have reached the millions and he would have achieved poor boy immortality. Generations from now, food writers would talk about him and his sandwich, which by then would have no doubt been franchised globally. But it did not happen. He was amused by my suggestion, but never followed it. It is relevant to this story that the restaurateur was Chinese because the year was 2012 which, of course, as we all know, was the Year of the Dragon. “Why don’t you,” I urged, “create a special Dragon Poor Boy?” “Dragon?” he answered then added. “I guess that would be chicken.” “Yes,” I said, relieved that he had already solved the most difficult question. (Besides, I have heard from reliable authority that dragon actually does taste a lot like chicken—sort of.) From here the recipe magically fell in place. Begin with a couple of grilled chicken breasts; top generously with dragon green guacamole dip. Decorate with sliced sweet pickles and then, if you want to be daring, disperse a few pieces of jalapeno for a fiery sensation. Serve toasted. There could be no better meal. This would be the such a novel dish that the news media would go crazy for it. The headline writers would gush: “Customers Fired Up About New Poor Boy.” And the future would have been even brighter. Imagine the sandwich during the era of “Game 1 0 july 2019 myneworleans.com

of Thrones.” There would have been Dragon Poor Boy parties throughout the world. After a few years the poor boy shop was closed. The sandwiches were good, but I think the owner just wanted something else. The shop was replaced by a pizza place. I went there recently and saw the former restaurateur inspecting the building’s windows. One detail I had forgotten was that he had owned the building all along. We talked briefly. I reminded him about the Dragon Poor Boy to which he nodded, but then I realized that he really didn’t need any novel sandwiches as long as he could collect rent from someone selling paninis. So, my idea remains untested. This year, 2019, would have been a good year because it is the Year of the Pig. (The Jazz Fest already has that, only they call it the Cochon de lait poor boy.) But if anyone has any plans for next year they might want to wait; unfortunately, 2020 is the Year of the Rat.


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meet the sales staff

Kate Henry Advertising Sales Manager (504) 830-7216 Kate@myneworleans.com

Rachel Webber Account Executive (504) 830-7249 Rachel@MyNewOrleans.com

Meggie Schmidt Account Executive (504) 830-7220 Meggie@myneworleans.com

Colleen Monaghan Vice President of Sales (504) 830-7215 Colleen@myneworleans.com

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myneworleans.com july 2019 1 3


speaking out

A New Day for Daily This will be an historic month

in local journalism. The Newhouse family, which has operated The Times-Picayune for 57 years, will shut down its local presence and the esteemed daily will become part of the Advocate family owned by John and Dathel Georges. We are going to have to become used to a newspaper named The Times-Picayune/ The New Orleans Advocate. Thinking back to that day in 2012 when the Newhouses announced that they were reducing circulation of the T-P to three home delivered editions a week, who could have imagined that The Baton Rouge Advocate, then owned by the Manship family, would become such a factor. What happened in New Orleans was not the way the script was 1 4 july 2019 myneworleans.com

supposed to go. The city was destined to become the largest town in the country without a daily newspaper. Dailies, we were reminded, are not a part of the future. Now we know, at least one will survive in New Orleans for at least as long as the Georges are willing and, we hope, as readers rediscover the value of the printed word. We do regret that in the process some excellent reporters have lost jobs. Good newspaper journalists are an important element to the functioning of a city; searching for facts, revealing the hidden truth, pouring through often tedious details; alerting us to the happenings within court houses, keeping us informed. Daily newspapers are the vanguard of a free press

and a free press is a necessity for known as The Times-Picayune/ democracy to work properly. Many The States-Item. Gradually, the of the current Advocate staffers latter names were dropped, and were former T-P employees. the double hyphenated newspaper Unfortunately, there will became simply The Times-Picayune. We not be enough jobs for all. We wish those the good An original predict the same fate for fortune they deserve. the new local daily. After ©Mike Luckovich Perhaps because of its Cartoon for New a while the Advocate Orleans Magazine fascination with words, name will be dropped no industry involves the and The Times-Picayune hyphen as does newspapers. The will emerge again as the city’s very name, The Times-Picayune daily. Meanwhile The Advocate speaks of an historic merger of will survive in its home base of two early newspapers, the Times Baton Rouge. The Georges will and the Picayune. (The former become the state’s all-time media once having been hyphenated mogul. We wish them success. This has been a long twisted as The Times-Democrat.) The States-Item, itself the product of a tale. To understand complex situmerger among afternoon dailies, ations is another reason why we became part of the T-P ownership. will always need newspapers. For a while the newspaper was

.


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julia street with poydras the parrot

Menu for the Bean Pot (1983) Courtesy of The Historic New Orleans Collection. Gift of Richard and Rima Collin

Tommy Facenda recorded on the Legrand record label a total of 30 different versions of his 1959 novelty hit “High School USA,” customized for general and local audiences throughout the country. The song was modeled after Australian songwriter Geoff Mack’s international hit, “I’ve Been Everywhere,” which had been written the same year; Hank Snow later popularized a North American version of “I’ve Been Everywhere,” which Johnny Cash would later cover. If you have internet access or lack the patience to hunt down an original vinyl copy of “High School USA: New Orleans,” you can hear it streamed at New Orleans Jukebox Gold, part of Bob Walker’s New Orleans Radio Shrine. Look for Show No. 6, “Fun Songs,” at: neworleansradioshrine.com/nojg.html

Dear Julia and Poydras, During my student days, my friends and I often ate at a hole in the wall Mexican joint called the Bean Pot. The food was great but the decor was grim. The chef/host was a crusty old guy named Chico. The restaurant later moved to Chalmette but my fondest memories are of the old Maple Street location. Did you ever go there? Luke Miller (Uptown, New Orleans) Yes, I remember Ignacio “Papa Chico” Vazquez (19272007) and his restaurant at 8117 Maple Street. The Bean Pot was in an old house and was the kind of place in which the exotic scents of Papa Chico’s traditional homestyle Mexican cooking made it easy to forgive the lack of stylish interior decoration. The Bean Pot’s menu featured seafood and meats paired with various types of Mexican sauces which Chico, a native of the Mexican state of Aguascalientes, made from scratch.

Dear Julia Street, I have a New Orleans musical trivia question I would like answered. Recently, I heard Johnny Cash’s recording of “I’ve Been Everywhere” - about geographic locations. The song brought back memories of this tune I heard when I was in high school - mid 60s. Wasn’t aware of the Johnny Cash version, but the New Orleans song had the same tune. The local 1 6 july 2019 myneworleans.com

song had no geographic names but listed numerous high schools in and around the city, some of which are gone. Hopefully, you could get me the actual song title, artist and if a recording is available either on vinyl, CD or cassettes, your help is appreciated. Respectfully, Mike Staiano (Metairie)

Dear Julia, My grandmother once told me that, when Castro came to power in Cuba, New Orleans’ own Poor Clare nuns took in fellow nuns who had fled Cuba. Some of the older sisters survived the trip only to die soon after reaching New Orleans. I have forgotten most of the story but hope it may sound familiar to you or Poydras. Tracy Armstrong (Metairie)

have a question for julia? Send your question to: Julia Street, New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Julia@ NewOrleans Magazine.com

In the summer of 1961, 25 members of the Poor Clare community fled Havana after the Fidel Castro regime cut off their supplies and prepared to confiscate their monastery. The sisters found refuge at the Poor Clare monastery in New Orleans where they were later joined by their abbess and three other sisters who had remained behind in a futile attempt to save the Cuban monastery. Many of the refugee nuns were frail, malnourished and elderly. Despite best efforts to nurse them back to health, three of the sisters soon died. Sr. Teresa de la Concepcion, O.S.C., died August 1, 1961 and was followed to the grave by Sr. Elmora de Sta. Isabel, O.S.C., who died October 7th.; Sr. Adelina de la Natividad de Maria, O.S.C., died October 18th. All three nuns were laid to rest in the Poor Clares’ mausoleum on the monastery grounds.


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Local Color

greg miles photo

MARQUEE . PERSONA . education . CHRIS ROSE . MODINE GUNCH . JOIE D’EVE . IN TUNE . jazz life

Food writer and cookbook author poppy tooker


marquee

July Our top picks for this month’s events by Fritz Esker

Family Block Party at the World War II Museum

If you’d like to take your kids to something fun and educational during summer vacation, try the first annual Family Block Party at the National World War II Museum on July 26. Families will get exclusive after-hours access to museum exhibits. There will be special experiences and activities for all ages. Information, NationalWW2Museum.org.

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Kolaj Fest

If you’re looking for an indoor festival to escape July’s heat and humidity, try Kolaj Fest. From July 10-14, various locations in New Orleans will host collage art and symposiums featuring today’s top collage artists. Venues include the Ogden Museum and Lemieux Galleries in the Warehouse District. Information, KolajMagazine.com.

Bush & Live: The Altimate Tour

Fans of ‘90s alternative music will want to head to Champions Square on July 30 to see alt-rockers Bush and Live perform some of their greatest hits as a part of The Altimate Tour. Information, Champions-Square.com.

Mamma Mia!

The blockbuster musical featuring the songs of ABBA will be performed at Rivertown Theater for the Performing Arts in Kenner from July 11-21. Enjoy hits like “Dancing Queen” and “Take a Chance On Me” in the story of a bride-to-be on a Greek island trying to discover the identity of her father. Information, RivertownTheaters.com.


calendar July 1-8

July 14

Black Restaurant Week New Orleans, Various Locations. Information, NOLAbrw.com

B97 Presents Pretty Much The FOMO Tour, The Fillmore. Information, FillmoreNOLA.com

July 3

July 16-21

French Quarter Comedy Show, Saenger Theater. Information, SaengerNOLA.com

Tales of the Cocktail, Royal Sonesta New Orleans. Information, TalesOfTheCocktail.com

July 5-7

July 17

ESSENCE Fest 2019, MercedesBenz Superdome. Information, Essence.com

Michael Buble, Smoothie King Center. Information, SmoothieKingCenter.com

July 6

July 17

Jesus & Jollof LIVE, Orpheum Theater. Information, OrpheumNOLA.com

Built to Spill, Joy Theater. Information, TheJoyTheater.com

July 6

Louisiana Sportsman Show, Mercedes-Benz Superdome. Information, MBSuperdome.com

July 19-21

West Bank Beer Fest, NOLA Motor Speedway. Information, NOLAMotor.com

July 20 July 6

Copeland’s Chicken Jam, UNO Lakefront Arena. Information, arena.uno.edu

Kids Canteen, National World War II Museum. Information, NationalWW2Museum.org July 25

July 8

Reel Big Fish & the Aquabats, Joy Theater. Information, TheJoyTheater.com

Iyanla Vanzant - Acts of Faith Remix Tour, Saenger Theater. Information, SaengerNOLA.com July 25-27

July 12-14

San Fermin en Nueva Orleans (Running of the Bulls), The Sugar Mill. Information, NOLABulls.com July 12-28

Hamlet, Tulane University’s Lupin Theater. Information, NewOrleansShakespeare.org

Grand Isle Tarpon Rodeo, Grand Isle. Information, TarponRodeo.org July 26

Dinner and a ZOOvie: How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World, Audubon Zoo. Information, AudubonNatureInstitute.org July 27

July 12

Dinner and a ZOOvie: Captain Marvel, Audubon Zoo. Information, AudubonNatureInstitute.org

New Orleans Beatles Festival, House of Blues. Information, HouseOfBlues.com July 27

July 13

Bastille Day Fete, New Orleans Museum of Art. Information, NOMA.org

Big Easy Rollergirls, UNO Lakefront Arena. Information, arena.uno.edu July 29-31

July 13

Kirk Franklin - The Long Live Love Tour, The Fillmore. Information, FillmoreNOLA.com

Men’s Basketball Skills Camp (Grades 2-8), UNO Lakefront Arena. Information, arena.uno.edu July 30

July 14

The Rolling Stones, MercedesBenz Superdome. Information, MBSuperdome.com

Carly Rae Jespen - The Dedicated Tour, The Fillmore. Information, FillmoreNOLA.com

myneworleans.com july 2019 2 1


persona

Brunch Boss Poppy Tooker By Kelly Massicot

Quite often, fate has plans for

us that we may not realize until it’s staring us in the face. Poppy Tooker – culinary activist, radio and TV personality, author and now the queen of the New Orleans Drag Brunch – learned what fate had in store for her following her successful book on the history of Tujague’s Restaurant. Whether you’ve read Tooker’s book or maybe know a little Tujague’s history, you may have heard of Julian Eltinge, who Newsweek hails as one of the most acclaimed 2 2 july 2019 myneworleans.com

female impersonators of the early 20th century. Tooker credits Eltinge with her new book and her success with her Drag Brunches. New Orleans Magazine caught up with Tooker to talk about the new book, her life in the drag and brunch world of New Orleans and her connection to CrescentCare.

Q: How did “Drag Queen Brunch” come to existence? What an old straight white woman is doing writing a book about drag queens in New Orleans is a very interesting

question. I didn’t write this book. This book was written by other forces in the world. It’s a book that doesn’t exist in any form anywhere that I can find. It somehow captures the experience of a drag brunch while giving you an up-close personal look at a handful of drag queen profiles in the book and delicious recipes from New Orleans historic and most modern favorite breakfast places. So, it all comes together in this one very beautiful book that I see as being really more of

a coffee table book. It’s guaranteed to be a real conversation starter.

Q: How does Juilan Eltinge come into the picture? It wasn’t written because of Julian Eltinge , but it wouldn’t have happened without him [and his ghost] because it was entirely inspired through my work with him.*

Q: How did you become involved with CrescentCare and the NOAids Task Force? Traditionally, [CrescentCare’s] biggest fundraiser greg miles photo


Born/Raised: New Orleans; Ursuline Academy “lifer” Favorite TV show: “Steppin’ Out,” I never miss it Favorite Book: Anything by M.F.K. Fisher Favorite restaurant: I have such a weakness for Toups South since my recording studio is in housed in the same building. Those cracklins get me every time!

is “Dining Out For Life Week.” I first became involved in the NO/Aids Task Force back in the 1980s. The person who the book is dedicated to was in the running to be the first chef to run their “Food For Friends” program when it began. I had friends dying of AIDS. I was there when they delivered those “Food For Friends” meals. It was a very important lifeline and that’s why I’ve always believed in that organization and supported it in any way I could.

Q: Why are the Drag Brunches so important? When the “Tujague’s Cookbook” came out (with mention of Julian Eltinge) my friends at the NO/Aids Task Force said, “great book and why don’t we have a drag brunch?” And I said, “Why don’t we have a drag brunch?” So, we started doing these drag brunches in October of 2015 in honor of Julian Eltinge, our cross-dressing ghost. We raised over $2,000 for the NO/Aids Taskforce for our “Dining Our For Life.” And that is at all of our brunches. There are a lot of for-profit drag brunches. Mine are not for-profit. Even the drag queens that participate are charitable. The queens who have to get up at 5:00 in the morning to look that good for an 11:00 a.m. brunch.

Q: How did drag queen Vinsantos become a part of the book? I came across Vinsantos

My favorite food is BUTTER! I once saw a lovely little framed piece of embroidery that was a stick of butter with the sentiment “In Hell, there will be no butter!” That keeps me on the straight and narrow!

because in doing my drag queen profiles again and again, some of the young drag queens in the book mentioned Vinsantos because Vinsantos has been, I think it’s five years now, has been conducting once or twice a year, these drag workshops. Making drag for everyone. Women, men, no matter what your orientation or what your drag is. Vinsantos has put a very definite imprint on the drag scene of today in New Orleans because he’s “drag-uating” all of these new baby drag queens who are regarding drag as a new form of selfexpressive art and very, very different from pageant queens and female illusionists. Now my photographer, Sam Hannah, who worked with me on the book, graciously gave up the cover shot because, as luck, or Julian Eltinge, would have it, Jose Guzman Colon was in town. He’s the photographer whose cover shot that is. Jose lives in San Francisco. *For more about Poppy, Vinsantos and the ghost of Julian Eltinge view “Persona” online at MyNewOrleans.com. myneworleans.com july 2019 2 3


education

A Fresh Coat of Paint Ingrid Rachal’s Schoolroom Odyssey by Dawn Wilson

While still in her own formative years, Ingrid Rachal’s interests included gymnastics, theatre and becoming a flight attendant. Becoming an award-winning educator never crossed her mind. But today, she’s just that: she’s been a semi-finalist for state teacher of the year and a recipient of New Schools for New Orleans’ excellence in teaching award. Some group or another is always recognizing her outstanding results at Mary McLeod Bethune Elementary School for Literature and Technology, located in Gentilly. Those results show up in state achievement tests. Last year, 72 percent of Rachal’s 8th grade English students scored mastery or 2 4 july 2019 myneworleans.com

above, a percentage that is “higher than the school, higher than the district,” Principal Mary HaynesSmith said. “She’s amazing.” When Haynes-Smith recommended Rachal for the New Schools for New Orleans award, she called Rachal a “visionary.” Rachal told the award committee that she creates instructional approaches that allow for “freedom of expression and creativity.” That creativity is inspired by an early love for the theatrical, an interest that drives lesson plans. To teach vocabulary, students are divided into groups to act out words. A word such as “incognito,” for example, inspired a disguise. Like many educators, Rachal

started teaching initially as a way to earn some money. She had given up a position with American Airlines after marriage. She had worked part-time in banking, but after a few years of mostly mothering, she decided she wanted a career. She decided to teach as a substitute teacher while working out the future. On “day one” of substituting, the future took care of itself. “I loved working with the children,” Rachal said. “I just wanted to learn everything about teaching. It was awesome.” She taught for nearly a year for $80 a day before the principal discovered she had a bachelor’s degree. After that, Rachal entered

a teacher certification program where she earned certification to teach 6th through 12th grade English. She taught in Jefferson Parish until the deaths of her mother and grandmother required taking a year off. As an only child, she needed to travel to her home state of Texas to settle family affairs and overcome her grief, she said. The road back to teaching was rocky. She interviewed at McDonogh 35 High School, a position she didn’t want because she preferred teaching middle school. But when the principal told her she would only teach 9th grade, she gave in, only to find herself teaching 10th grade, and later 11th grade, too. “I was petrified,” she admitted. A lover of vegan cooking, church and pastels, she was horrified when she beheld the graffiti covered classroom. Peach paint did wonders. “When I was finished, it was gorgeous,” she said. Then, before she knew it, she was forced to give up the calm of peach. She was assigned middle school again and given another depressing classroom. “There was a hole in the wall,” she remembered. This time, lime green paint helped. She settled in, but after only two years, she was told she was returning to high school English. That classroom was worse than the first two. “The cabinet doors were falling off,” she said. “I looked at it and cried. I prayed and cried.” That very day Haines-Smith called, and after an 11-year odyssey, Rachal was teaching at Mary McLeod Bethune, her idea of a dream school, a “loving” environment with no painting required.

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cheryl gerber photo


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chris rose

The Advocate Takes A Pic All The News That’s Print to Fit by Chris Rose

And now there is just one. As

there was in the beginning. One morning in May, New Orleans woke to the news that John and Dathel Georges, owners of The Advocate newspapers, had concluded swift and secret negotiations to purchase The Times-Picayune. Just weeks after they consumed the city’s biggest alt-weekly, Gambit. In a region grown largely numb to the wild vagaries, fluctuations and disruptions of the local newspaper business, this was indeed a stunner. The idealistic upstart had bested the scarred and grizzled–some might say, soulless – veteran daily. A David and Goliath story, to be sure, with fewer Biblical implications and more boardroom intrigue. The cold corporate bastids’ in New York City – Advance Publications and the Newhouse family – had dumped the dregs of what was once the crown jewel of 2 6 july 2019 myneworleans.com

their vast newspaper empire into the hands of a similarly shrewd, but seemingly more empathetic media family conglomerate. Twitter was a-twitter. Wow, that sucks, all those Times-Picayune folks laid off without warning, in a sudden shock; what to think? What will become of them? Some responded this way: Wow, all those Times-Picayune folks who were complicit in the sudden overnight layoffs of scores of their co-workers several years ago – a well plotted coup against their colleagues of many decades – finally got their comeuppance. What will become of them? And so this is what has become of the local newspaper business. Lessons learned: Keep a current resume. Have a Plan B. Smile and say thank you sir, may I have another. Adjust. Adapt. And be prepared to cut someone else’s throat before they cut yours.

It’s gut wrenching and confusing to witness. Lives and livelihoods, legacies and logos – swapped out like trading cards. Some ruined, some redeemed. But it’s by no means something new. As best as anyone can tell, the New Orleans daily newspaper story began in 1794, with the publication of Moniteur de la Louisiane. A French newspaper for French people. From there, it was off to the races. Newspapers in French, Spanish and English. A French newspaper with a Spanish langauge edition (The Bee). An English newspaper named after, and worth, a piece of Spanish currency. (The Picayune.) And so on. There was Le Telegraphe. The Union. The Delta and The Crescent, two antebellum pro-Confederacy dailies. The Times. The Democrat. They became the Times-Democrat. The States popped up to challenge them. And The Item. The States

and The Item then merged into the States-Item. The Times discarded the Democrat like a bad date and merged with The Picayune. Are you following? Shortly before I arrived in New Orleans in 1984, The TimesPicayune and The States-Item had merged. And what a mouthful of marbles newspaper mergers can create. On my first day of work, assigned to a suburban post, I was directed to answer the phone: “The Times-Picayune, The States-Item, West Bank Bureau, Good morning, what can I...” By then the line had usually gone dead. Time and experience – and jaw muscle fatigue – taught me to pick up the phone and just say: “Rose.” Not a great name for a newspaper. (Or maybe it is.) But it does follow the fundamental tenets of journalism. Short, clear, succinct. At least you knew who you were talking to. Decades ago, likely more to save costs on ink than any power play, the paper shortened its name to just The Times-Picayune. The States-Item was relegated to the ash heap of New Orleans newspaper history, along with L’Abeille, The Advertiser and so many more that have chronicled the story of this city over the past 300 years. L’Union, the city’s first stridently black newspaper during Reconstruction, later became the weekly New Orleans Tribune, which still publishes today. So now we are down to one, just like in the beginning. A new, uncertain era begins, the destiny of the local daily broadsheet banks on one newspaper. With three names. The last three names surviving in New Orleans’ long, glorious, inglorious daily newspaper history. The Ad vo c a t e, The Times- Picayune. I pity anyone who has to answer the phone.

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Jason Raish Illustration


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modine gunch

Showing Your Wits A reason for every season by Modine Gunch

People will tell you that the reason

we usually have Mardi Gras in February —the coldest, most miserable month of the year in New Orleans— has to do with the church calendar and the stage of the moon or something like that. Don’t believe it. It’s for one reason only. So we won’t get naked. Not that I personally would get naked. But the fact is, New Orleans is known for nakedness. The rest of the world expects to see us naked, or at least showing our bosom. But if we do that in February, we are going to pay for it in frostbite or pneumonia or some other misery. That’s the whole point. The church ain’t stupid. But this year, the ladies of Nyx got the bright idea to throw a parade in July. In New Orleans. Now, Hades on a hot day got nothing on New Orleans in July. If we could sell sweat by the bucket, we would all be billionaires. This is precisely why we don’t have no Fourth of July parades like they do in the rest of the country. Up North, while they are rooting and tooting down the street (but not throwing beads, by the way) we are inside lurking around our air conditioners. Or at the multiplex theatre, slinking from one movie to the next, all day long. That’s how we celebrate in summer. But the Nyx ladies wanted to bring thousands of people outside into the streets. All sweating. All wearing not much. There would have been plenty of skin for the world to see, and since New Orleans ain’t known for physical fitness, a lot of sights the world would never unsee. Mayor Cantrell saved us all. The Nyx colors are hot pink and black,

2 8 july 2019 myneworleans.com

which would have also described the crowd out there — hot pink, and also hot black, and a bunch of hot tans in between. And I ain’t talking hot as in sexy. The float riders were supposed to throw glittered sand shovels, which would probably have been good for digging in potholes, since we got no beaches to speak of. They should have said they would throw snowballs. Maybe the mayor would have approved of THAT. A bunch of us are talking about it Sunday afternoon at my mother-in-law Ms. Larda’s. She got one of them big inflatable water slides secondhand — and what with that and a couple of plastic pools and the lawn sprinkler and some squirt guns, the grandkids create their own water park in her back yard. We grownups are all lounging out there in our bathing suits, letting the kids squirt water on us. Maybe we are sights that couldn’t be unseen ourselves, but we are wet and cool and happy. I myself got on a two-piece bathing suit that I had to borrow from my daughter Gumdrop, because I forgot mine. I can tell by the way my gentleman friend Lust looks at me that he likes it, but I’m not sure— the top don’t

fit right, and there are other parts of me that are seeing the sun for the first time since I was a teenager. My sister-in-law Gloriosa asks me to take her baby Flambeau down the slide, and Gloriosa will catch her at the bottom. Well, Flambeau loves it. She clings to me like a little monkey and shrieks all the way down. We land in a big splash and I lose my balance and slip underwater —it is only about 18 inches deep— but Gloriosa quick scoops up the baby. When I come up, I realize something is missing—my bathing suit top. Flambeau is still clutching it while Gloriosa carries her across the yard to get a towel, oblivious. Nobody else is oblivious. I see eyes round as doorknobs and beer missing mouths all over that yard. Ms. Larda throws me a pool noodle for a modesty shield and I sprint for the house. When I slink back outside, decent again, everybody acts normal, like they didn’t just see a half-naked woman with a pool noodle flailing from under her armpits streak across the yard. Who needs a parade?

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LORI OSIECKI ILLUSTRATION


myneworleans.com july 2019 2 9


JOIE D’EVE

Ruby Reps Roller Derby Five reasons you should consider letting your kid bash into people while wearing skates. By Eve Crawford Peyton

through three days. She will never amusement to me how very choose chocolate, always vanilla; different Ruby, my somehow-now- I will never choose vanilla, always 12-year-old daughter, is than I was. chocolate. She just wrapped up In school, I loved English and an intense performance of “Li’l struggled with math; she is the exact Abner” at her school, executing opposite, making high marks in a choreographed song-and-dance math and science while eschewing number with five other girls, and books as boring. I have always been can’t wait until the next show, while a textbook introvert; she is the very I am much happier in the audience. definition of “extrovert.” I had Before I had Ruby, I would always limited interests – none of which look around in wonder when I’d be were sports-related – in middle at some kind of show and they’d school while Ruby ask for volunteers for joins every sport and the audience. “Who are those lunatics who club she hears about Excerpted from Eve – and then runs for Crawford Peyton’s actually want to get up office. She loves sleep- blog, Joie d’Eve, which on stage?” I’d wonder away camp, goes for appears each Friday on while also trying to MyNewOrleans.com three weeks, and calls make myself invisible. it her “happy place;” Now I know who those even as a kid, I would have had lunatics are. They’re people like to have an Ativan drip to make it Ruby. It is a constant source of

30 july 2019 myneworleans.com

Her latest obsession, which is definitely not my obsession, is roller derby. And if you have a kid, boy or girl, between the ages of 6 and 17, she would like you to consider letting them explore the Crescent City Crushers. Yes, she had to sit out their entire scrimmage yesterday after busting her tailbone during warm-ups, but instead of sulking, she spent the time writing a list of the five things she loves best about doing derby. 5 Reasons I Love Roller Derby by Ruby Crawford aka Ruby Bruiseday: 1. It is so fun and challenging (but mainly fun)! 2. It requires giving your all, unlike some other sports. I can’t just get 25 laps in 5 minutes not trying, after all! 3. The coaches are super-nice, even though they may seem

intimidating at first. They are all sweethearts, and they want you to feel safe because you are. 4. You go super-fast on wheels! Like at least two times faster than you would running. 5. You meet amazing people like my best friend, Hailey, and they don’t get bored of you talking about it because they love it too! If you think your kid might be interested, you can check out their Facebook page. And if you want to start a support group for exhausted introvert parents of energetic extrovert kids, send me a message. We’ll hold meetings at the library or somewhere else quiet, and we don’t have to talk to each other at all; we can just read books together and sip tea and maybe send each other encouraging texts from across the room.

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jane sanders illustration


myneworleans.com july 2019 3 1


in tune

must-see music july 6

Charly Bliss pops into Gasa Gasa.

Walter “Wolfman” Washington

july 6 Rakim raps at Tipitina’s with The Soul Rebels. july 8 Reel Big Fish swings into The Joy. july 11 Wand brings psychedelic rock to Gasa Gasa. july 13 Kirk Franklin brings gospel Fillmore. july 14 PRETTYMUCH pops into the Fillmore.

Live and Local

july 15 Carl Palmer’s ELP Legacy rocks the Saenger.

Familiar Favorites Bring the Music by Mike Griffith

Swamp Band. Honey Island began Now that summer is in full swing, it’s with a few friends in post Katrina a good time to revisit some old haunts exile on the west coast and rapidly and see some live local music. Tipitina’s evolved into a mainstay of the local Free Friday series is a great excuse live music scene. Finally, you can catch to get Uptown for a drink and some The Crooked Vines opening for The tunes. This month on the 5th you can New Orleans Suspects on the 26th. The catch Walter “Wolfman” Washington Crooked Vines have a funky-pop vibe that will be a great lead in to and The Roadmasters who the powerhouse that is The will be joined by the Marc Playlist of mentioned Stone Band. Wolfman is a bands available Suspects. These are all great legend on the local funk at: http://bit.ly/ shows and you can’t beat and blues scene and truly InTune7-19 the price. You’ll definitely possesses a sound all his want to keep Tips in your own. On the 12th John “Papa” Gros orbit this month. takes the stage with Space & Harmony in the supporting role. If you haven’t Essence fest seen Space & Harmony yet, the super On the weekend of July 5, The group features George Gekas and Rob Essence Festival celebrates its 25th Ingraham of the Revivalists with Bill anniversary and the festival has quite Daniel and Sam Shahin from Naughty a party planned. The Main Stage Professor. For the free show on the boasts headliner legends Missy Elliott 19th you can catch The New Orleans and Mary J Blige, with supporting Johnnys opening up for Honey Island performances by Nas, H.E.R., Pharrell Free Friday at Tipitina’s

32 july 2019 myneworleans.com

Williams and Big Freedia. Blige and Nas are currently on tour together and she has just released some excellent new music. The festival will also feature a special interview with Michelle Obama on July 6. One of the really great things about Essence is the way it transforms all of the performance spaces in the city. There are so many parties and performances it’s impossible to list them all, but if you have any strength left on Saturday night you will definitely want to check out Rakim’s show at Tipitina’s with The Soul Rebels as special guests. Rakim is one of the all time great hip-hop MCs; he should mesh quite well with The Soul Rebels’ sound. Essence remains one of the city’s great festivals incorporating not just music but food, business and culture. It’s worth taking some time to find the events that appeal to you—there is truly something for everyone.

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july 17 Built to Spill rocks The Joy. july 30 Carly Rae Jepsen pops at the Fillmore.

Dates are subject to change; email Mike@ MyNewOrleans. com or contact him through Twitter @ Minima. greg miles photo


jazz life

Jason Berry A curtain call by Jason Berry

Reader, Farewell.

I began this column in 1994 with fresh memory of the Elvis act in Chalmette: Andrew Jaeger, the risen king, popping out of a coffin to roars of the crowd. The New Orleans environs are a floorshow of the mythic mind surpassing the rest of the South. As my interests have moved deeper into long form work, the space for this outlet has shrunk, and so, with thanks for the run, I bid my readers farewell. In a quarter-century of following the musical tides of these latitudes I’ve enjoyed choice encounters with the muses. Dave Bartholomew, the composer who molded the Fats Domino sound, told me that “The Monkey Speaks His Mind,” was inspired by a scribbled note from a lady in an airport. Who was she? Dave the Great shrugged. No idea. Big Chief Donald Harrison Sr., 34 july 2019 myneworleans.com

in his Ninth Ward home with Indian suit trappings on the table, 1995 – Guardians of the Flame founder invited me to an interview. “Some people go to churches. It’s a religious experience for them, right? When I’m into the Indian thing, that’s a religious experience for me,” he said. Your inner self, expressed through your outer self.”  Harrison, who found validation in Camus’s “The Rebel” for Black Indian rituals of resistance, nailed my approach, trying to capture how musicians and tradition-bearers express the inner self via the outer self. In April, Demond Melancon, Big Chief of Young Seminole Hunters, was sewing bead patches, priced at $3,000 each, for his upcoming slot in a Jazz Fest booth. Early on, Melancon gravitated to Yellow Pocahontas Big Chief Tootie Montana’s Seventh Ward house, mesmerized by the suit

taking shape. “I started sewing in ’92 at Colton Junior High when I had friends maskin’ Indian,” said Melancon, a Rastafarian with dread locks, sewing at a warehouse art space. “I use small beads and pattern my work off Tootie.” “I pulled concrete for fifteen years and then I was a lobster cook for three years. I’d get fired at Mardi Gras for making my suit.” His break came when a collector purchased a beaded apron for $45,000. He quit hard labor. The photographer Christopher Porché West alerted him to Bras-Coupé, a one armed rebellious slave portrayed in George Washington Cable’s classic, “The Grandissimes.” “I knew I had to deal with who Bras-Coupé was and what he did,” Melancon said, sewing. “Bras-Coupé was one of the most notorious outlaws in the history of New Orleans,” wrote

University of California at Berkeley professor Bryan Wagner, a New Orleans native, in “The Life and Legend of Bras-Coupé,” a new book with two pages of photographs of Melancon in the suit. “Bras-Coupé became a leader of the maroons who lived in the cypress swamp outside the city,” Wagner wrote. “As his legend was transformed in novels and plays and narrative poems, Bras-Coupé became a superhero.” Not every musician or Masking Indian – the term preferred by many tribal memory artists – becomes a superhero. But there is something heroic in a music culture that finds an expanding stage in film coverage and museum events, beyond the clubs and outdoor stages, by celebrating long struggle. Camus also wrote that super-human is something that takes men longer to do, as in the mythic power of a tradition yet unfolding.

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home

From Catalog to Custom A 19th century architectural pattern book home gets a modern update by Lee Cutrone photographed by Greg Miles

The original design for Rebecca

and Benton Smallpage’s Queen Anne style house came from the pages of an architectural pattern book, a popular source of plans for 19th century residences. It is a mirror image of Residence Design No. 216 from Robert Shoppell’s 1888 “Shoppell’s Modern Houses.” As such, the property was designated a city landmark in 1982 by the Historic District Landmarks Commission and is protected by their mission of preservation. Today, the house, which took the Smallpages three years to renovate in compliance with the HDLC’s

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requirements, is also a window into current tastes in home design and the busy lifestyle of a family with four kids, ages 5 to 12. When the Smallpages first viewed the house in 2014, it met a number of checkpoints on their list of criteria. It had room for four kids, a separate carriage house that could be converted into a guest house for visiting family and friends, and a pool. The couple purchased the house and began working with an architect on a renovation that would preserve the architectural integrity of the buildings.

The remodel called for tearing off and rebuilding the narrow rear portion of the house and bumping out the right side of the structure for extra square footage. In order to satisfy the HDLC’s requirement that the addition not obscure the historic carriage house behind the house, the Smallpages had it moved to the opposite side of the backyard, where it remains visible from the street. They also had the carriage house raised to the level of the main house (the two structures, with a screened porch added between them, now flow together as if they were always

The living room’s simple arrangement of an antique settee that belonged to Benton’s grandparents and a pair of reproduction chairs bought at auction is given a contemporary perspective with an animal hide rug.

connected) and abbreviated the existing pool. Rebecca, who has a degree in accounting, but loves the challenge of renovating houses, a passion inherited from her parents who have renovated numerous houses, did much of the space planning as well as the decorating. In fact, she


started her own design business, Le Petit Page, during the renovation and has since helped others with design projects. “I like the puzzle pieces of moving walls and making it work,” she said. “At night, I stayed on Floor Plan Pro until 1 o’clock in the morning until I made it work.” For the family’s last house, she used a monochromatic palette of beiges, which

has become a standard part of many New Orleanian’s subtropical décor. But this time, she used color and delved into her own tastes, sourcing things from local stores, artists and a variety of internet sites, including Wayfair, 1st dibs, Circa Lighting, and Etsy. “I promised I would do what I liked and how I envisioned it,” she said. “I went more on the colorful side of things. The other house was what I

Top, left:Rather than do an all-white kitchen, Rebecca chose to ground the room with a rich shade of gray, Benjamin Moore’s Iron Mountain; Visual Comfort pendant fixtures and sconces; stone and cabinets for the kitchen came from the Stone Gallery; Alexis Walter painting; acrylic bar stools by Gabby Home. Top, right: The historic home, which came from the pages of a 19th century pattern book, was designated a city landmark in 1982 by the HDLC. Bottom: The Smallpages’ standard poodle, Bear, in the foyer; the glass banister fixture was in the house when the Smallpages bought it; they rewired it and left it in the same spot; chandelier, Ebay; Alexis Walter painting.

myneworleans.com july 2019 3 7


Top, left: From left: Thomas, 10 , Briggs, 5, Field, 7, and Sara Gibbs, 12. Top, right: Rebecca designed the banquette dining area so her kids could do their homework while she cooks; the dining table is by Anthropologie; fabric on back of banquette from Fairfax Fabric Co., vinyl on seats from Neo. Light fixture by Visual Comfort; Brown & Damaré; the corn pitcher on the table is from a collection that belonged to Benton’s grandparents who owned an historic house with a cornstalk fence. Bottom, left: Sons Field and Briggs share a room that mixes sky blue and bright red. Bottom, right: The dining table was handed down from Rebecca’s parents; Rebecca found the chairs on Ebay and recovered them; chandelier from 1st Dibs.com; walls are colored with Benjamin Moore’s Eagle Rock 1469; Rebecca chose a bright moss green for the curtain panels and added the trim to bring in the wall color.


Left: The Smallpage’s eldest daughter wanted to use the color turquoise in her room, so Rebecca chose a floral wallpaper by Harlequin; white feather light fixture by EOS. Right: Inspired by a picture of an illuminated marble bar, Rebecca had craftsman Pierre LeBeaud at Paris Stone custom-make the showstopper vanity in the powder room using cristallo quartzite backlit with an LED panels; wallpaper by Sandberg Wallpaper.

thought I was supposed to do. With this house, I said ‘it’s ok to do my own thing.’” She also stayed focused on the needs of her family and the desire to create a place where extended family feels welcome and her kids want to bring friends. One of her first bits of inspiration came in the form of a painting. Having seen the work of Tennessee artist Emily Ozier, she commissioned a hunt scene, which

reminds her of her Lexington, Kentucky upbringing and her love of horses. Working with the bold colors in the painting, she opted for navy kid-friendly sofas and accents of bright green. A painting of the Roman Taffy Man’s mule-drawn cart above the wet bar nearby gives equal time to her husband’s New Orleans roots. Benton is President of Donovan Marine, his family’s marine supply distribution company, which is

more than a century old. While the house had its origins in a design that anyone could purchase, its new incarnation includes many features unique to the current residents. A built-in banquette in the kitchen provides space for the kids to do their homework or for guests to gather while Rebecca cooks. Accordian doors between the screen porch and den fold back so that the two spaces connect seamlessly when the family entertains. A refrigerated wine room makes use of space beneath the front stairs and a hidden office is tucked away behind the wet bar. The jewel-like vanity in the powder room is made of Cristallo quartzite, backlit with LED panels. But the most distinctive of all the custom touches are the passage-

ways that Rebecca designed for her kids: a hidden door between her eldest daughter’s and eldest son’s rooms and another that enables the children to access the third-floor playroom from the youngest boys’ shared room. “I wanted to build a house my kids would want to bring their friends to,” Rebecca said. The strategy paid off. In addition to being a welcoming place for family and friends, the house’s blend of classic 19th century beauty and customized contemporary design has proved a great place for the constant traffic of little feat that Rebecca loves. “We can have a party with 30 children,” she said, “and everyone has their own space to go and hangout.”

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myneworleans.com july 2019 3 9


restau


best

NEW

rants Discussing food, cooking and restaurants is a part-time sport for New Orleanians. From breakfast to brunch, lunch to cocktail bites, dinner to late night eats and desserts, we’ve got a lot to talk about. Enjoy our selection of the best new dining spots in New Orleans, and continue your own food conversations!

by Jyl Benson, Jay Forman, Tim McNally, Robert Peyton photography by Sam Hanna


b est of the b est

Justine


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here is a certain niche of New Orleans restaurant where entertainment, décor and peoplewatching all converge. Enter Justine, a French Brasserie with plenty of extras from restaurateur Justin Devillier and his wife and business partner Mia Freiberger-Devillier. The result is a destination where DJs and burlesque acts are as much of the landscape as excellent platters of fruits de mer. The huge restaurant unfolds like a picture book through a series of thematically distinct dining rooms. Many of the accent pieces were purchased over a long trip to France where the team went to do research prior to opening. Executive Chef Dan Causgrove, formerly of Seaworthy, runs the kitchen. The menu is grounded in brasserie classics like onion soup and steak tartare, yet has plenty of room to stretch. For example, a menu section entitled Le Bouf Gras offers so many variations of Steak Frites it almost qualifies as an American steakhouse. But

Petite Filet Au Poivre, Chef Justin Devillier, Restaurant Interior, West Indies Crab Salad, Onion Soup Gratinée, Lobster Tartine

there is no mistaking French technique; the Filet au Poivre with its crust of crushed peppercorns and decadent cognac pan sauce offers a spectrum of flavor and taste not found in your local Ruth’s Chris. And the sharp, clean bite of the dijonnaise with the salty frites satisfies at an elemental level. “One of the things I missed at Seaworthy was braising meats and making reduction sauces,” Chef Causgrove said. “The smell of a braised lamb shank coming out of the oven or slowcooked duck confit – I get that here.” Seafood also shines at Justine – consider the Lobster Tartine, a generous mound of lobster salad seasoned with fennel, tarragon and lemon atop a thick slab of brioche. Also the ceviche-like West Indies Crab salad with its chopped onion and fresh herbs is recommended. The later you go, the more spectacle awaits. “The idea is to feel good, feel a little bit fancy but also to be laid back because you are there to have a good time,” Devillier said. – JF Justine, 225 Chartres St., 218-8533, JustineNola.com.


Jewel of the South

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t’s been a very long time since bar patrons in New Orleans were curious about which Brandy Crusta was in season. Or if the bar establishment turned out an especially authentic Roffignac. Or if the French 75 contained the right brand of gin, giving true balance to the ac-

companying sparkling wine. Jewel of the South, a new mid-19th century historic destination, is perfectly positioned to tell a lot of stories and preserve New Orleans long-past memories. The original Jewel was founded by Joseph Santini in the CBD, on Gravier Street, in 1855.

The exact address is still the subject of conjecture and speculation. In 2019, along comes well-respected, long-time New Orleans barmen Chris Hannah and Nick Detrich. These close friends have collaborated to resurrect and enshrine Crescent City cocktails, giving the breadth of such drinks as the aforementioned the proper regard, and in a proper setting. Jewel of the South Salt-Baked is not the first collabBeetroot, Bourgeois oration for these two Blood Boudin, creative and demandMurder Point Oysters, Flat ing professionals. The Bread and Cuban bar Manolito, Kohlrabi 508 Dumaine Street, opened in 2018, proved the value of patience and friendship. The Brandy Crusta, by the way, was created by Santini, and the Jewel’s contemporary partners are also focused on other cocktails of the era just before the Civil War. The Roffignac was named after New Orleans’ last French-speaking mayor, 1820-1828, and the man who brought streetlights to a dark town. The French 75? Hannah had much to do with popularizing that cocktail during his 14-year stint at the bar of the same name. As can be expected, the menu consists of well-designed small plates, made real by Chef Philip Whitmarsh, a Brit who understands pub food and noshing very well. The Jewel team, all the way around, have nothing in their way to making the reborn pub more popular than the original. Santini would be proud, indeed. –TM Jewel of the South, 1026 St. Louis St., 265-8816, JewelNola.com.


Gris Gris L

ast August, Eric Cook opened Gris Gris, a chic but comfortable restaurant and bar in the triangularshaped building at Magazine and Felicity, with the tantalizing bonus of a deep, graceful second floor balcony. Gris Gris is firmly rooted in New Orleans’ singular style of warm hospitality, and features inspired takes on the southern cuisine locals cherish and visitors seek out. Cook, a New Orleans native and former Marine, should be familiar to local diners. His 25-year career has brought him through the kitchens of Brennan’s, Commander’s Palace, Bourbon House, Tommy’s Cuisine and N.O.S.H., giving him plenty of time to figure out what he wanted to do in his own place. “I’m staying in my lane,” Cook said. “I’m doing what I do well and not trying to be everything to everyone.” Expertly fried Gulf oysters make two memorable appearances on the starter menu. They are the main attrac-

tion on a refreshing salad with crisp Little Gem lettuce, thin shavings of watermelon radish, a scattering of bleu cheese and a hint of sugarcane vinaigrette. They co-star in a fun take on a BLT, alongside cubes of smoked pork belly and a truly sensational tomato jam. A silken tomato butter sauce elevates the shrimp and fried green tomatoes to game changing status. Ditto that for the smoked sausage, roasted red peppers, and cherry tomatoes that enhance the “Shrimp & Gris Gris Grits.” “My mom makes this every year for my birthday and I plucked this straight from her,” Cook said of his deeply satisfying chicken and dumplings, which have the power to bring a warm smile to the stoniest of faces. Tender ribbons of pulled chicken mingle with carrots and pillow-like dumplings, the long cooked dish enlivened at the last moment with the addition of fresh thyme. – JB Gris Gris,1800 Magazine St., 272-0241, GrisGrisNola.com.


Shrimp & Fried Green Tomatoes, Chef Eric Cook, Restaurant Interior, Oyster BLT, Shrimp & Gris-Gris Grits, Restaurant Interior, Oyster BLT


Cumin Roasted Cauliflower with Yogurt and Mint and Octopus a La Plancha with Heirloom Bean and Herb Salad

Costera

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t was true from the time Spain took control of New Orleans in 1763. Our new “owners” bitterly complained about, apologies to Rodney Daingerfield, getting no respect. Yet they were the most important overseers to our culture, deeding us with the New World Colonial architecture of the French Quarter, a love of fine drink, and the Feast of San Fermin. Think: Running of the Bulls. Spanish cuisine in New Orleans has never been as innovative as it is right now. Costera, new and wonderful in Uptown, is bringing authentic Iberian dining in a true and totally enjoyable sense. The freshest of vegetables and the most delectable seafoods are the soul of the menu offerings. Chef Brian Burns and restaurateur Reno de Ranieri know their way around a great paella. As the name suggests, Spanish coastal cuisine is the theme playing through every beverage and dish. – TM Costera, 4938 Prytania St., 302-2332, CosteraRestaurant.com.


Ropa Vieja

Vegetarian combo

Addis NOLA

Que Rico!

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thiopian restaurants are rare in New Orleans, so we were fortunate when Addis NOLA opened in March of this year, bringing one of the world’s most delicious cuisines to the edge of Mid-City. The restaurant is operated by Biruk Alemayehu and her husband Jaime Lobo; the kitchen is helmed by chef Sammy Shiferaw, a veteran of Ethiopian restaurants in Washington, D.C. and Atlanta. The literal basis for Ethiopian food is injera, a thin, crepe-like bread that serves as both vessel and utensil. With a tangy, fermented flavor and a spongy texture, diners at Addis NOLA tear off pieces of injera to scoop up the spicy and aromatic stews, pulses and stir-fried dishes on offer. Try the lamb wot, an aromatic stew with ginger, garlic and turmeric and the chicken tibs, bone-in meat sautéed with onion, tomato and jalapenos, and any of the vegetable dishes, and you’ll understand why Addis NOLA is among the best new restaurants in town – RP Addis NOLA, 424 S. Broad St., 218-5321.

ast year Iderlin “Donna” Rivera and her husband, Richard, lost their lease in the Olde Towne Slidell strip mall where they had been running Que Rico!, their Cuban restaurant, for close to 10 years. Slidell’s loss is New Orleans’ gain. One of the many Uptown customers who frequently made the trek to the other side of the lake to enjoy the Riveras’ exceptional Cuban cuisine intervened and helped negotiate a reasonable lease on a small building on Magazine Street. They painted the interior of the space a pale shade of aqua, adorned the walls in gilt-framed works from Cuban artists and opened in December to overnight success, driven by their strong existing customer base and an enthusiastic welcome from New Orleans’ sizeable, population of persons of Cuban heritage or descent. The menu is stocked with luscious Cuban classics: croquetas, lechon asado, ropa vieja, garlic and spice-rubbed Cuban-style steak, and sweet, potent, tres leches cortadito. BYOB. – JB Que Rico Cuban Cafe, 4200 Magazine St., 827-1398.


Saint-Germain


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visit to Saint-Germain, an idiosyncratic bistro and wine bar recently opened by a trio of MoPho alum, places you totally in the hands of its chefs. But the plates that issue from the kitchen will reward this trust. The dining room offers a choice of just a three or five course tasting menu. The market-driven compositions change constantly, but recently included shrimp and blue crab with a tomatobased dashi. Another dish, simply labeled “Omelet”, was a study in French execution – at once substantive and cloud-like, garnished with salty pops of caviar and bitter arugula to cut the fat. The restaurant is owned by Trey Smith, Blake Aguillard and Drew DeLaughter. They share a common bond with MoPho, and Aguillard also worked at the Michelinrated Saison in San Francisco. The reservation-only dining room is intimate, just 16 seats, so planning ahead is essential. The bar menu – recommended if you don’t have a reservation – offers walk-in customers choices like ex-

Fresh Cheese, Herbs, and Toast, Hoshigaki Persimon, Celeriac, French Omelette

ceptionally sourced crudité, dusted with crispy wild rice for texture and a charred pepper rouille. “A lot of it what we do here is about layering the flavors,” DeLaughter said. “We work with what the purveyors bring us and are particularly excited about. We do a lot of fermentation and dry-aging as well – techniques that reinforce flavor and add complexity.” The apparent simplicity often belies the technique. I defy you to go home and cook an omelet like the one served at Saint-Germain. But while the prevailing ethos is French, the vibe is ramshackle New Orleans chic. “We thought a double shotgun home would be the perfect setup with a small dining room on one side and a bar on the other,” DeLaughter said. “We wanted it to be very casual, to feel like a dinner party at a friend’s house.” In short, this is a restaurant chefs will love, and for that matter anyone intimately interested in food. –JF Saint-Germain, 3054 St. Claude Ave., 218-8729, SaintGermainNola.com.


Roasted Carrot Yogurt

Dian Xin

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Molly’s Rise and Shine

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ason Hereford grabbed up the lease on the 30-year home of Magazine Street Po-Boy & Sandwich Shop immediately after the owner announced his retirement and closed the doors. A renovation brought Hereford’s colorful, playful madman sense of style to the formerly nondescript place, creating a more-fun-thankindergarten way to start the day. This happy breakfast and lunch spot is adorned with bright murals and vintage toys, and your meal may arrive on the sort of plastic, compartmentalized

tray most often associated with school cafeterias. Options trend toward the unexpected. The deviled egg tostada brings together Cotija cheese whipped with a rich egg mousse, and topped with refried red beans, chopped cilantro, lime, red onions, pickled peppers and peanut salsa. “Whirled Peas on Toast” marries whipped feta, English pea chimichurri, toasted almonds, white onion, mint and dill, cured egg, and roasted garlic with an optional addition of smoked salmon (yes!) –JB Molly’s Rise and Shine, 2368 Magazine St., 3021896, MollysRiseandShine.com.

n 2017, Judy Ceng, a native of Hong Kong, sold Little Chinatown, the celebrated Kenner restaurant she opened in 2010, to travel with her husband. In late January she returned to open Dian Xin near the French Market, a petite, 12-table dim sum (a Chinese dish of steamed or fried dumplings filled with a variety of ingredients) spot that has taken the city by storm. It turns out New Orleanians were ravenous for dim sum. Now Ceng is adding new traditional items to the already lengthy menu of bao (dumplings), soups, salt-and-pepper shrimp and quid, jianbing (a bean flour and egg crepe stuffed with minced pork or seafood and herbs) , and shu mai (open, pleated wonton "purses" filled with shrimp, scallion, and ginger). –JB Know this: You will never get in without a reservation. BYOB. Dian Xin, 1218 Decatur St., 266-2828.


Xiao Long Bao


The Franklin T his town values traditions and sense of place. When something is not where it is supposed to be, things just don’t feel right. New Orleanians can sense such shifts in the universe. What was originally a neighborhood Bywater grocery store became a restaurant, which morphed into a plan for another restaurant, which then, and finally, became an excellent choice for dining. There was an interruption to the flow of the cosmos and New Orleans was uncomfortable. Now, comfort and a sense of peace can be enjoyed. The Franklin Restaurant, on the corner of Franklin Avenue and Dauphine Streets, is back and all is good. In fact, the restaurant is way better than good. Owners Michael Wilkinson and operating partner, Ken Jackson, never gave up the quest to bring about the rebirth. Meanwhile diners can comfortably settle back and enjoy what Chef Dane Harris has wrought. The Franklin is best described using a term which

Torchon de Foie Gras with Rose Jelly, Buttered Toast & Summer Salad., Restaurant Interior, Greens Salad, Bacon Jam Burger

has industrial meaning, but to New Orleans not so descriptive (because most of our local bars and food hubs qualify) – Gastropub. Besides being a quite-goodlooking and comfy place, The Franklin has raised the neighborhood dining bar. Barbecue spiced pecans set a nice palate-preparing pace; then diners move on to Redfish Rillettes or duck liver mousse. Follow those treats with meal starters tuna Credo, beef Tartare, grilled octopus or shaved ham with cheese. Main course offerings include a sizeable and satisfying burger, or crispy whole fish, a not-often- found schnitzel and the “Four Vegetable Monte,” your choice of what will be included in the preparation and the presentation. The drinks program at the bar is equally diverse and equally internationally represented. Getting The Franklin back from a quixotic journey just feels right. The fact that it’s an excellent dining destination makes it all that much better. –TM The Franklin, 2600 Dauphine St., 267-0640, TheFranklinNola.com.


C

Zasu

hef Sue Zemanick received acclaim during her 12-year stint as executive chef at Gautreau’s, including recognition from Food & Wine Magazine as one of the 10 best new chefs in the U.S. in 2008, and being named Best Chef, South by the James Beard Foundation in 2013. The chef took some time away from restaurant kitchens after leaving Gautreau’s and opening the short-lived Ivy, on Maga-

zine Street, but she’s back with a new restaurant: Zasu. Chef de cuisine Jeff McLennan worked with Zemanick at Gautreau’s, as did general manager Chris Cuddihee, who runs the front of house with aplomb. The restaurant occupies a shotgun on a narrow lot, and the dining room isn’t large – there are probably around 40 seats, and while there’s a bar, it’s strictly for service. The menus aren’t expansive either, but they are ambitious, inventive and unapologetically fine-dining. Zemanick’s food is hard to categorize, Achiote because she has influRoasted ences from all over the Chicken Breast, Sauplace. When asked, téed Halibut, she told me that she Fried Veal Short Ribs, and McLennan cook Chef Sue the food they want to Zemanick eat. Fortunately for diners, the two have excellent taste. Zemanick has always been fond of seafood, and fish made up three of the six entrees recently. Two of those dishes, halibut with English peas, haricots vert, spring onions and spinach in a ginger-mushroom broth, and saltinecrusted grouper served with braised greens, crawfish and bacon in a spicy butter sauce illustrate the wide range of flavors on offer. There are vegetarian options on each section of the menu, and a well put-together wine and cocktail list that includes non-alcoholic versions of the latter. Chef Sue Zemanick’s return to restaurant cooking will be welcome news to fans of her sophisticated cooking. – RP Zasu, 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 2673233, ZasuNola.com.


Summer Fun Without the Sun Beat the heat with these air-conditioned oases.

Splash grounds, water parks, outdoor pools, sno-ball stands — all are beloved options for families trying to make it through another New Orleans summer. But there are always those days when summer storms strike or when the thought of another moment in the sun is just more than you can take. Fortunately, New Orleans has no shortage of ways for families to get out of the house, explore the city, get the wiggles out and still enjoy the oh-so-glorious wonders of air conditioning.

By Kim Singletary photography by Theresa Cassagne


N e w o r l e a ns Boulder L o u nge


Get Moving

New Orleans Boulder Lounge We may not have mountains, but we do have boulders — they’re just indoor and man-made. The New Orleans Boulder Lounge encourages children to literally climb the walls, even offering kids-only climbing hours every Sunday morning from 10 a.m. to noon, and discounted pricing (climbing and shoe rental together is $10 per child). Regular day passes are $16 for adults, $12 kids 12 and under. Rental shoes are required and are $4. The Boulder Lounge also occasionally offers Parents' Night Out — evening three-hour climbing sessions and games. 2360 St. Claude Ave. Penguin Ice Skating With the closing of Leo’s ice skating rink in Baton Rouge in the spring of 2018, the closest ice skating rink to New Orleans was Lafayette — that is until Penguin Ice Skating opened last August in Kenner’s Esplanade Mall. While the 2,200-square-foot rink is synthetic, the added friction is actually easier for beginning skaters. The rink is open from noon to 9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturdays and noon to 6 p.m. Sundays. Admission and skate rental is $15 on weekends and $10 on weekdays. Esplanade Mall,1401 W. Esplanade Ave., Kenner We Rock the Spectrum Kids Gym A gym for kids of all ability levels, We Rock the Spectrum features a wide array of play structures, including swings, a trampoline, tunnels and a zip line. Plus, there’s an arts and crafts section that includes beading, painting and lanyards. Open play time is offered from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon to 6 p.m. on Sunday. Open play is $12 for the first child, $10 for siblings. Esplanade Mall, 1401 W. Esplanade Ave., Kenner Other Ways to Get Moving

Trampoline Parks Defy (formerly Sector 6), 62 Distributors Row; Sky Zone, 6509 Riverside Dr.. Metairie; Surge, 6930 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie. Laser Tag Adventure Quest Laser Tag, 1001 Elmwood Park Blvd.; Area 51, 1539 Lafayette St., Gretna; Laser Tag of Metairie, 8855 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie. Roller Skating Airline Skate Center, 6711 Airline Dr.; Skate Country Westbank, 1100 Terry Pkwy, Terrytown. Bowling AMF All-Star Lanes, 3640 Williams Blvd., Kenner; Colonial Lanes Bowling, 6601 Jefferson Hwy., Harahan; Westside Bowling Lanes, 3715 Westbank Expy., Harvey; Rock ‘n Bowl, 3016 S. Carrollton Ave.

Indoor Sports Big Easy Sportsplex, 800 Webb St.; Playmaker Indoor Sports Center, 6124 Jefferson Hwy., Harahan. Indoor Playgrounds Monkey Room, 1501 Religious St.; Palm Tree Playground, 2011 N. Service Rd. E., Metairie; Luv 2 Play Metairie, 6851 Veterans Blvd., Metairie; Gym Rompers New Orleans and Metairie, 5212 S. Claiborne Ave. Activities for Little Pnuts

Looking for some indoor fun in Lakeview? Little Pnuts Toy Shoppe and Party Boutique offers afternoon one-hour play dates for ages 5 and up ($15), family game nights with pizza and beverages ($15 adults, $5 kids), parents happy hours where parents can drop children age 6 and older off every Thursday from 5-7 p.m. ($25 first child, $20 siblings), and adults-only murder mystery and escape room nights ($25 per person.) Explore the Universe

Audubon Louisiana Nature Center in New Orleans East Using a new state-of-the-art projection system, the planetarium’s approximately one-hour programs range from Big Bird and Elmo exploring the night sky, to tours of the Mayan sky, to the history of the telescope and the incredible migration of butterflies. Open Wed.-Sun. from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tickets are $7.50 for adults, $6 for children. Audubon members receive $1 off. 11000 Lake Forest Blvd., New Orleans Kenner Planetarium and Space Science Complex Step inside a NASA International Space Station Prototype. Play around on a green screen and predict the weather. Learn about optical illusions. Dig for dinosaur bones. These are just a few of the exhibits at Kenner’s Space Science Complex. The same location also boasts a 50-foot dome screen that shows laser shows — like Laser Guitar Hero — as well as educational programs about the universe. Open Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Show tickets include access to exhibits and are $6 for adults, $5 for seniors and children. Tickets to just the exhibits are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors (60+) and $3 for children age 2-12. 2020 4th Street, Kenner Girl Power!

Big Easy Rollergirls July 27 and Aug. 17, UNO Lakefront Arena The whole family can enjoy the excitement of roller derby at a Big Easy Rollergirls game. Games feature a kids' zone, half-time entertainment, concessions and the chance to get up close with the tough New Orleans women who play. General admission tickets are available in advance for $10 online, $15 at the door, children age 6-12 are $5, and kids under six are free!


Pen g ui n Ic e Skating

Cold Treats When A/C isn’t enough, add ice cream. Wherever your adventures take you, rest assured there’s sweet relief nearby.

Uptown

Piccola Gelateria Ice Cream 504 (craft, small batch) Shake Therapy (milkshakes) Sucré Yogurtland Creole Creamery Insomnia Cookies (cookies, ice cream, frozen yogurt) Lakeview

Cookie Dough Bliss (edible cookie dough and ice cream) Creole Creamery Metairie

Creamistry (liquid nitrogen ice cream) Ice Queen (ice cream and bubble tea) Sweet Handcraft French Quarter

Sucré French Quarter Kilwin’s New Orleans Pinkberry The Fudgery Amorino (gelato) Antoine’s Annex (coffee, pastries, gelato) Mister Apple Candy Store Lower Garden District/CBD

The Soda Shop (National WW2 Museum) Fat Boy Pantry (sandwiches and ice cream) Mac and Moon (Macaroons and rolled ice cream) Bittersweet confections (bakery and ice cream) Drip Affogato Bar (ice cream with a hot drip- like hot chocolate) Mid-City

Freezy Street (rolled ice cream) – also in Kenner, St. Claude and New Orleans East Angelo Brocato

Did You Know?

At Baskin Robbins — Uptown, Mid-City, New Orleans East — on the 31st of every month ice cream scoops are $1.70 (regularly $2.99 for one scoop) and you can get two pre-packed quarts for $7.99 (regularly two for $10.99).


Cheap Family Flicks

Prytania Summer Kids' Movie Series All movies are Fridays and Saturdays at 10 a.m. Tickets are $6.50 and include a kiddie popcorn and drink of your choice. July 5-6 E.T. The Extra Terrestrial Swim Indoors (no membership required)

NORDC: Treme Recreation Community Center NORDC: Stallings St. Claude Recreation Center NORDC: Lemann Pool (Treme) UNO Aquatic Center

Summer on Stage

July 26-28 My Fair Lady Student Edition JPAS (performed by children age 7-17.) Tickets $15-$25 July 11-21 Mamma Mia! Rivertown Theater. Tickets $36-$40.

Make Art

Canvas & Kids Lil’ Yats Art & Play The Shard Shop (art with glass pieces)

July 26,27 Shrek Jr. Tulane University Summer Lyric Theatre (performed by children age 12-16.) Aug. 1-4 Roald Dahl’s Matilda The Musical Tulane University Summer Lyric Theatre. Tickets $28-$48. July 30 GNOYO Summer Orchestra Performance

Enjoy a Museum, for Free!

Free on Wednesdays: NOMA, all Audubon attractions

Aug 15 The Wiggles Party Time Tour Orpheum Theater. Tickets $43.50.

July 12-13 Wizard of Oz July 19-20 The Lion King July 26-27 The Goonies Aug. 2-3 Willie Wonka Aug. 9-10 Space Jam National WWII – Kids' Canteen Children age 5-13 are invited to enjoy the museum’s BB’s Stage Door Canteen for a hands-on craft, snacks and a kid-friendly WWII-themed movie.  Children are free (online registration required) and accompanying adults are $7. Doors open at 10:30 a.m. Show is at 11 a.m.   July 20 Captain America: The First Avenger Regal Summer Movie Express Regal Grande Esplanade & GPX (1401 W. Esplanade, Kenner) $1 kid movies every Tuesday and Wednesday at 10 a.m. Portion of proceeds goes to the Will Rogers Institute. (Both movies play on both days.) July 9-10 Lego Movie 2, How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World July 16-17 Smallfoot, Secret Life of Pets July 23-24 Lego Movie, Captain Underpants: The First Epic Movie July 30-31 Sing, How to Train Your Dragon 2 Aug. 6-7 Penguins of Madagascar, Boss Baby

Free on Thursdays: Ogden

Aug. 13-14 Kung Fu Panda 3, Lego Ninjago Aug. 20-21 Trolls, Minions Get Tickets Now for these Fall Shows: Fun at the Library

New Orleans Public Libraries offer a wide array of summer activities, magic shows, including story times (bilingual too), LEGO clubs, drop in and play dates, family movies and Saturday morning cartoons. For more information, visit NOLALibrary.org.

Sept. 11 Nickelodeon’s Jojo Siwa D.R.E.A.M. Tour, UNO Lakefront Arena. Tickets start at $67. Oct. 19-20 Paw Patrol Live, UNO Lakefront Arena. Tickets start at $25.

Aug. 27-28 Madagascar, Shrek 2 Sept. 3-4 How to Train Your Dragon, Storks AMC $5 Tuesdays for Stubs Members All movies (except special events) are $5 for all levels of Stubs members (AMC Stubs Insider is a free membership.) The Broad Theater– BYOB(aby) Screenings This Mid-City theater partners with Asuka to provide sushi rolls and a baby-friendly flick every Thursday at 11 a.m. Movie titles are released one at a time.


Cooki e Dou gh Bli ss

the S hard S ho p


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The Menu TABLE TALK . RESTAURANT INSIDER . FOOD . LAST CALL . DINING LISTINGS

jeffery johnston photo

Louisiana Crawfish & Linguini Pasta in a Cajun Sauce with Fried Louisiana Catfish at morrow’s


table talk

meet the chef Grilled Korean Sweet Marinated Short Ribs with Korean Rice

Korean Soul

Morrow’s is owned by the mother-and-son team of Lenora Chong and Larry Morrow. Lenora, who formerly ran Lenora’s Grill in Pontchartrain Park, heads up the kitchen. Larry’s background is in event management and promotion, among other pursuits, and he is responsible for much of the vibe and aesthetic. The selection of Korean dishes pay homage to Lenora’s heritage and make for a fun and eclectic departure from the straight-up New Orleans comfort food direction of much of the menu.

New Orleans and Asian classics at Morrow’s by Jay Forman

If you’ve driven down St. Claude Avenue

lately, chances are you’ve seen a crowd clustered around the corner of Music Street. They are waiting for seats at Morrow’s, a polished new restaurant serving classic New Orleans comfort food with

7 4 july 2019 myneworleans.com

a uniquely Korean twist. Owned and operated by the mother and son team of Lenora Chong and Larry Morrow, Morrow’s has quickly built a name for itself as a go-to spot for well-executed local fare served in a celebratory atmosphere.

jeffery johnston photo


The restaurant is a sleek, tables, marinated beef, fried egg contemporary space, which stands and a spicy sauce all served over out in a neighborhood that tends white rice. Sunday brunch is a great time to to favor patina over polish. The long bar is accented with a verdant, visit, especially for families – get branded backdrop and the menu there early to avoid the inevitable has something for everyone – this wait. Morrow’s offers up a “Red is the kind of place not just popular Velvet Waffle” accompanied by with adults, but also with families three fried chicken wings – a celebrating birthdays and gradu- variation on the more traditional ations. It’s built around a core “Chicken and Waffles” – which of local favorites like crawfish also makes an appearance here. bread (theirs uses a poor boy loaf “Shrimp and Grits” are served, as a base) and charas is a decadent broiled oysters. Start lobster-studded mac with a cup of gumbo and cheese. For those Morrow’s, 2438 St. – the stock is thin but seeking a lighter Claude Ave., The Marigny, 827-1519, packed with flavor and approach, spinach L Tues-Sat, D backed with heat from salad garnished with Mon-Sat, Brunch Sun. cayenne pepper. The pecans, dried cranberMorrowsNola.com wide-ranging entrée ries, red onion and section features crawfish etouffee, goat cheese is an option, but to “Pasta Lenora” (think fettuccini come here is to indulge, not to Alfredo localized with fresh gulf deny. Do yourself a favor and shrimp) and the behemoth “Just reach for the “Bananas Foster Watch” – a sprawling seafood French Toast” instead. You can platter featuring shrimp, oysters, go to the gym on Monday. During the week, Morrow’s has catfish and softshell crab which feeds 2-3 people. These is also a a happy hour offering 50 percent rotating series of daily plate lunch off premium drinks as well as $3 specials – consider Wednesday’s shots and $3 beer. Morrow’s does butter beans over rice with their not accept reservations, so seating excellent fried chicken as a substi- is on a first-come-first-served basis. tution for the smoked sausage. Arrive early to avoid the wait. A unique feature of their menu are the Korean dishes – food writers often hone in on this facet despite the fact the bulk of the menu is comfort food. Still, the Korean choices are well-executed and make for a tempting departure from regional fare. An appetizer of “Lettuce Wraps” features cubes of chicken spiced with gochujang – a fermented red chili paste packed with umami. The Korean BBQ offers a heaping platter of thin-sliced beef ribs on the bone, Mid-city comfort food marinated in a sweet sauce before If you like Morrow’s, other being grilled. Served on a cast iron neighborhood hot spots with a platter and generously garnished party vibe include Neyow’s Creole with slivered green onion, the Café on Banks Street in Mid-City, fat picks up the marinade and where the patrons spill out the the char. Although the portion front door on weeknights and at is generous, you will be picking brunch. There you will also find a through the bones for any and all menu specializing in Creole leftover morsels. Another option is the “Bibim Bop,” a composed comfort food, along with its meal-in-a-bowl featuring vege- famously potent fruit punch.

.

myneworleans.com july 2019 7 5


restaurant insider

News From the Kitchen Bordeaux, The Green Room Kukhnya, Chez Pierre by Robert Peyton

Bordeaux

The Green Room Kukhnya

Chef Dominque Macquet is one of the best chefs in town, and he’s returned to the dining scene with a new restaurant, Bordeaux, where he and Sous Chef Martin Fennelly are cooking an ambitious French menu paired with wines by Sommelier Bruno Rizzo and cocktails by Lynn Burgett. A custom-built French rotisserie turns out a changing list of items such as pheasant, lamb or suckling pig. Bordeaux, 4734 Magazine St., 273-5747; Tuesday-Thursday 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.; brunch, Saturday-Sunday 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., BordeauxNola.com.

The Green Room кухня (Kukhnya) got its start as a pop-up at the Siberia Lounge, specializing in Eastern European food. Chef and owner Matthew Ribachonek has now opened a brick and mortar establishment with an expanded menu of items such as pierogies, stuffed cabbage rolls, blinis and more standard pub fare like burgers and sandwiches. The Green Room Kukhnya, 1300 St. Bernard Ave., 766-1613, Sunday, Monday and Wednesday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to midnight; closed Tuesday; GreenroomNola.com.

7 6 july 2019 myneworleans.com

Sauteed American Red Snapper Israeli Couscous Grilled Local Squash Baby Bok Choy Thyme-White Wine Fume

Chez Pierre

Local bakery/restaurant Chez Pierre has opened its fifth location in the city, this time in Lakeview. Like the other locations (3 in Metairie and 1 in Harahan) the offerings will include French pastries, sweets, cookies and cakes as well as Vietnamese dishes such as vermicelli bowls, banh mi and pho. King Cakes will be available during Carniva.l Chez Pierre,141 W. Harrison Ave., 467-3176; open 7 days, 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.; ChezPierreNewOrleans.com.

jeffery johnston photo


myneworleans.com july 2019 7 7


food

7 8 july 2019 myneworleans.com

styled by photographed by eugenia uhl


A Summer Harvest

RECIPE

Shrimp and Corn Soup

6 ears corn

Corn in the soup pot

2 pounds head-on shrimp, or 1 pound peeled and deveined frozen shrimp

by Dale Curry

1/4 cup vegetable oil It probably feeds more mouths than any

vegetable in the world, and we don’t even call it by it by its proper name. We eat it dozens of ways, and many animals, and even insects, devour it daily. It is maize, better known as corn, and is consumed in every course of the American diet and all over the world. The name corn was originally used by the English in reference to any cereal crop. To us, it signifies the sweet yellow and white kernels on cobs clothed in silks and husks. The American Indians gifted corn to the modern world. Colonists called it Indian corn, which had red, blue, brown and purple kernels. Horticulturists developed the varieties we eat today with creamier kernels, harvested immaturely for its tender, sweet and starchy content. Mature corn is primarily used for grains, and popcorn is a different variety containing a tough outer shell. Actually, corn is traced back to the Aztecs and Mayans. Today it is a staple all over the world and raised in a variety of climates. White Silver Queen, the darling of New England, is also grown here, along with other varieties, although grocery stores rarely specify the variety. For cooking, the freshest available is the best bet for eating on the cob or cooking in soups, chowders, salads, relishes, casseroles, fritters, pudding or bread. In south Louisiana, that would be in late May through August with the best in late summer. We love our fresh corn, but consume much of it in corn flour, cornmeal, corn oil, cornstarch, corn syrup, corn whiskey and bourbon. With our Cajun-Creole cooking style, corn lends itself to soups and stews, including our famous maque choux and, of course crawfish boils with their spicy corn and potatoes. The first time I tasted a corn soup was when I was a young girl visiting my grandmother near New Orleans. And, yes, it starts with a roux.

¼ cup butter, melted ½ cup all-purpose flour 1 large onion, chopped 5 green onions, white and green parts separated and chopped 1 bell pepper, chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 quarts shrimp or chicken stock 1 large or 2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon thyme ½ cup heavy cream 1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. Shuck corn and remove silks. With a sharp knife, cut kernels off corn cobs while holding over a large bowl. Use a table knife to scrape juice from the cobs into the bowl.

Grilled Corn Peel husks back leaving them attached at the base of the cobs. Clean out the silks and discard. Salt kernels lightly and rub softened butter over them. Cover with husks and tie together with string. Place on grill about 10 inches over medium-hot coals, turning occasionally, until corn is done, about 15 to 20 minutes. Check for doneness with a fork.

2. If using fresh shrimp, peel and devein them, saving the heads and shells for making a stock. To make the stock, place heads and shells in a large pot, cover with 2 quarts of water, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and set aside. 3. In a large pot, melt butter, mix with oil and flour and heat over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until mixture begins turning darker. Keep heat between medium-high and medium and continue stirring until roux reaches the color of peanut butter. Add white onions, bell pepper and celery and simmer until vegetables are wilted. Add garlic and simmer 1 minute. Gradually add stock and then tomato and seasonings. Simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes. 4. Add corn and continue simmering for 15 minutes. Add shrimp and simmer for 10 more minutes. Remove from heat and stir in cream, green onion tops and parsley. Serve hot. If reheating, heat gradually, stirring occasionally.

myneworleans.com july 2019 7 9


last call

Flocktails Have Landed! An array of refreshments for the summer by Tim McNally

Sweet but Psycho: elderflower liqueur, Sailor Jerry spiced rum, raspberries, cucumber, simple syrup, soda water, & mint Thank you, Next: vodka, sprite, blueberry lavender syrup, fresh blueberries

Bad & Boujee: Johnnie Walker Red whiskey, amaretto

Sorry Not Sorry: Jameson Ginger Beer, lime

Of all the seasons of the year,

summer is mentally the least serious. We don’t wear as many clothes. We seek refuge at the beach. Eat lighter and drink the same way, lighter. Anything overwhelming, like too much alcohol, or serious conversations, or being outdoors while working in the mid-day sun is completely out of place. It’s particularly the case in New Orleans when we bolt from one

8 0 july 2019 myneworleans.com

air-conditioned space to another even stripping the bed of coverings that won’t do us well when we wake up at 3 a.m. perspiring. In keeping with the lighter mood to beat the heavy heat of summer, we are suggesting a Flocktail. This is the fanciful name given to a class of adult drinks and served at a place in the Warehouse District that just wants to have fun. Year-round, Flamingo A-Go-Go

sets a hectic party pace but particularly in the warmer months, the place seems to go into overdrive. The drinks menu, dubbed Flocktails, features Hibiscus Mule, Prickly Pear, Streetcar, Flamingo on a Wire, for examples. For those in a hurry, there are also Flocktails on Tap, like Mermaid Lyfe, lots of Sailor Jerry Rum; Good JuJu, Malibu Rum with southern peach tea sangria;

and Sweet Business, Bombay Sapphire Gin is the base. We can’t do much about New Orleans summertime temps, but we can make the experience cooler and more pleasant. The possible solution is as close as the Warehouse District. Oh, and the place is dog friendly. Flamingo A-Go-Go, 869 Magazine Street, 577-2202, FlamingoNola.com.

eugenia uhl photo


dining listings H= New Orleans Magazine award winner

Bywater

H Pizza Delicious pizza 617 Piety St., 676-8482, PizzaDelicious.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Authentic New York-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant , that also offers excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes. Outdoor seating a plus. $ Carrollton Bourré AMERICAN 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 510-4040. L, D Tue-Sun. “Elevated” street food along with quality daiquiris and wings are the draw at this newcomer from the team behind Boucherie. $$ Breads on Oak Bakery/Breakfast 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, BreadsOnOak.com. B, L, seven days a week. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak St. serves breads, breakfast, sandwiches, 100 percent vegan. $ City Park Café NOMA AMERICAN 1 Collins Diboll Cir., NO Museum of Art, 482-1264, CafeNoma. com. L, (snacks) Tue-Sun. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $ CBD/Warehouse District Balise Louisianian Fare 640 Carondelet St., 459-4449, BaliseNola.com. L Tue-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Chef Justin Devillier turns back the clock at this turn-of-the-century inspired bistro in the CBD. Carefully crafted fare fits well alongside the excellent cocktail and beer list. $$$

H BH Steak Steakhouse Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. D daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$

H Borgne Seafood 601 Loyola Ave.,

$ = Average entrée price

$ = $5-10 $$ = $11-15 $$$ = $16-20 $$$$ = $21-25 $$$$$ = $25 & up

appeal. $$$

burning oven, and an excellent raw bar. $$$

Drago’s Louisianian Fare Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D daily. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

Q&C Hotel/Bar AMERICAN 344 Camp St., 587-9700, QandC.com. B, D daily, L Fri-Sun. Boutique hotel bar offering a small plates menu with tempting choices such as a Short Rib Poor Boy and Lobster Mac and Cheese to complement their sophisticated craft cocktails. $$

H Domenica Italian The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, DomenicaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Authentic, regional Italian cuisine. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées features locally raised products. $$$$ Emeril’s Louisianian Fare 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, EmerilsRestaurants.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$

H Herbsaint Louisianian Fare 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, Herbsaint.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$ H La Boca Steakhouse 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 525-8205, LaBocaSteaks.com. D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$

H Lüke World 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, LukeNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, house-made pâtés and plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$

613-3860, BorgneRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Coastal Louisiana with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this high-volume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$

Morton’s The Steakhouse Steakhouse 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, 566-0221, Mortons.com/NewOrleans. D daily. Private elevator leads to the plush, wood-paneled environs of this local outpost of the famed Chicago steakhouse popular with politicians and celebrities. $$$$

Calcasieu Specialty Foods 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2188, CalcasieuRooms.com. For large and small gatherings, the catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous.

Mother’s Louisianian Fare 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, MothersRestaurant.net. B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long lines to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$

H Cochon Louisianian Fare 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CochonRestaurant.com. L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski feature Cajun and Southern cuisine. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine Reservations recommended. $$

H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, DesiVegaSteaks.com. L Mon-Fri, D Tue-Sat. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this menu, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the

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Mulate’s Louisianian Fare 201 Julia St., 5221492, Mulates.com. L, D daily. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this world-famous Cajun destination. $$ Palace Café World 605 Canal St., 523-1661, PalaceCafe.com. B, L, D daily. Cassic New Orleans restaurant, the Dickie Brennan and Palace Cafe team evolve traditional Creol dishes. Enjoy specialty cocktails and small plates at the Black Duck Bar. $$$

H Pêche Seafood 800 Magazine St., 5221744, PecheRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by Chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-

HRed Gravy Bakery/Breakfast 4125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravy.com. B, Br, L, Wed-Mon. Farm-to-table brunch restaurant offers a creative array of items such as Cannoli Pancakes and Skillet Cakes, as well as delectable sandwiches and more. Homemade pastas and authentic Tuscan specialties round out the menu. $$ H Restaurant August AMERICAN 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, RestaurantAugust.com. L Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Rock-N-Sake Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake.com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun, late night Fri-Sat. Fresh sushi and contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, RuthsChris.com. D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution. There are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sac-A-Lait Seafood 1051 Annunciation St., 324-3658, Sac-A-LaitRestaurant.com. D TueSat, L Fri. Cody and Sam Carroll’s shrine to Gulf Coast and Louisiana culinary heritage melds seafood, game, artisan produce, and craft libations in an ambitious menu that celebrates local and southern cuisine. $$$$ The Grill Room AMERICAN Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-6000, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$ Tommy’s Cuisine Italian 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, TommysNewOrleans.com. D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$ Central City Café Reconcile Louisiana fare 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, CafeReconcile. org. L Mon-Fri. Good food for a great cause, this nonprofit on the burgeoning OCH corridor helps train at-risk youth for careers in the food service industry. $$ Covington Don’s Seafood seafood 126 Lake Dr., (985) 327-7111, DonsSeafoodOnline.com. L, D Daily. Popular neighborhood seafood joint offers an array of crowd-pleasing south

Louisiana dishes, including char-broiled oysters and Zydeco shrimp. Kid’s Menu makes it a good choice for families. $$$ Faubourg Marigny The Marigny Brasserie AMERICAN 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, MarignyBrasserie. com. L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like fried green tomatoes and innovative cocktails such as the cucumber Collins. $$$ Faubourg St. John

H Café Degas French 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, CafeDegas.com. L, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$

H 1000 Figs World 3141 Ponce De Leon St., 301-0848, 1000Figs.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Vegetarian-friendly offshoot of the Fat Falafel Food Truck offers a healthy farm-to-table alternative to cookie-cutter Middle Eastern places. $$ French Quarter Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 724 Iberville St., 522-5973, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

H Arnaud’s Louisianian Fare 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, ArnaudsRestaurant.com. D daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$ Arnaud’s Remoulade Italian 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, Remoulade.com. L, D daily. Home of the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$ Antoine’s Louisianian Fare 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is à la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$ Antoine’s Annex Specialty Foods 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Antoines.com/Antoines-Annex. Open daily. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available. BB King’s Blues Club Barbecue 1104 Decatur St., 934-5464, BBKings.com/ new-orleans. L, D daily. New Orleans outpost of music club named for the famed blues musician with a menu loaded with BBQ and southern specialties. Live music and late hours are a big part of the fun. $$$ Bayou Burger Burgers 503 Bourbon St., 529-4256, SportsBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Gator Bites. $$ Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes,


bourbon is offered as well. $$$

Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$

Bayona World 430 Dauphine St., 5254455, Bayona.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$

Criollo Louisianian Fare Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, CriolloNola.com. B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various Louisiana cultures, with a contemporary twist. $$$

Brennan’s Louisianian Fare 417 Royal St., 525-9711, Brennansneworleans.com. B, L, D daily. Chef Slade Rushing’s innovative Cerole menu borrows influences from French and Spanish ancestry with modern updates and distinct seasonal offerings. $$$$ Broussard’s French 819 Conti St., 5813866, Broussards.com. D daily, Br Sun. Creole-French institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

H Cane & Table Gastropub 1113 Decatur St., 581-1112, CaneAndTableNola.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Open late, this chefdriven rustic colonial cuisine with rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$ Chartres House Italian 601 Chartres St., 586-8383, ChartresHouse.com. L, D daily. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ Court of Two Sisters Louisianian Fare 613 Royal St., 522-7261, CourtOfTwoSisters.com. Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic

Crazy Lobster Seafood 500 Port of New Orleans Place, Suite 83, 569-3380, TheCrazyLobster.com. L, D daily. Boiled seafood and festive atmosphere come together at this seafood-centric destination overlooking the Mississippi River. Outdoor seating a plus. $$$ Creole Cookery Seafood 508 Toulouse St., Suite C110, 524-9632, NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com. L, D daily. Crowd-pleasing destination in the French Quarter offers an expansive menu of Creole favorites and specialty cocktails served with New Orleans flair. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 841 Iberville St., 581-1316, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Classic Creole dishes, such as redfish on the halfshell, and an Oyster Bar. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$ Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467,

DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. Validated Parking next door. $$$$

H Doris Metropolitan Steakhouse 620 Chartres St., 267-3500, DorisMetropolitan.com. L Fri-Sun, D daily. Innovative steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$ El Gato Negro World 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, ElGatoNegroNola.com. L, D daily. Central Mexican cuisine along with hand-muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$ Galatoire’s Louisianian Fare 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, Galatoires.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak Steakhouse 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, Galatoires33BarAndSteak.com. L Fri, D SunThu. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails and classic steakhouse fare and inspired dishes. Reservations accepted. $$$

H GW Fins Seafood 808 Bienville St., 581FINS (3467), GWFins.com. D daily. Owners Gary Wollerman and twice chef of the year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is

printed daily. $$$$$ Hard Rock Café AMERICAN 125 Bourbon St., 529-5617, HardRock.com. L, D daily, Br SatSun. Local outpost of this global brand serves burgers, café fare and drinks in their rock memorabilia-themed environs. $$ House of Blues Louisianian Fare 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, HouseOfBlues. com/NewOrleans. L, D daily. Good menu complements music in the main room. Worldfamous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$ Irene’s Cuisine Italian 539 St. Philip St., 529-8881. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$ K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen Louisianian Fare 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul. com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to the nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H Kingfish Seafood 337 Charters St., 598-5005, KingfishNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Regionally inspired seafood dishes with carefully sourced ingredients and southern influence is the focus at this chefdriven French Quarter establishment. $$$ Le Bayou Seafood 208 Bourbon St., 5254755, LeBayouRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just

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a few of the choices at this seafood-centric destination on Bourbon Street. $$$ Muriel’s Jackson Square Italian 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, Muriels.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Enjoy local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$ Napoleon House Italian 500 Chartres St., 524-9752, NapoleonHouse.com. L, D daily. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas. A Sazerac or Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $ NOLA Louisianian Fare 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, EmerilsRestaurants.com/NolaRestaurant. L Thu-Mon, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plankroasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Oceana Grill Seafood 739 Conti St., 5256002, OceanaGrill.com. B, L, D daily. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro Gastropub 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, OrleansGrapevine.com. D daily. Wine is the muse at this bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

H Patrick’s Bar Vin Gastropub 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, PatricksBarVin.com. D daily. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates

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are served as well. $$

jazz brunch. $$$

Pier 424 Seafood 424 Bourbon St., 3091574, Pier424SeafoodMarket.com. L, D daily. Seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like “Cajun-Boiled” Lobster. $$$

Richard Fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant Louisianian Fare 301 Dauphine St., 5860972, RichardFiskes.com. B, Bar Lunch daily. Just a few steps off of Bourbon Street is this relaxing bar featuring an innovative menu with dishes like Crawfish, Jalapeno-and-Bacon Mac and Cheese garnished with fried oysters. Live music a plus. $$$

Port of Call Burgers 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, PortOfCallNola.com. L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

H Restaurant R’evolution Italian 777 Bienville St., 553-2277, RevolutionNola. com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Jana Billiot and executive sous chef Gabriel Beard are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$ Red Fish Grill SEAFOOD 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, RedFishGrill.com. L, D daily. This vibrant, seafood-centric polished-casual landmark delivers innivative twists on casual New Orleans seasfood, including local favorites BBQ oysters and double chocolate bread pudding. $$$ Rib Room AMERICAN Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. B, D daily, L MonSat, Br Sun. Old World elegance, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on Sundays a

Royal House Louisianian Fare 441 Royal St., 528-2601, RoyalHouseRestaurant.com. L, D daily. B Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$ SoBou Louisianian Fare 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, SoBouNola.com. B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on an accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$ The Bombay Club Louisianian Fare Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 577-2237, TheBombayClub.com. D daily. Popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ The Pelican Club AMERICAN 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub.com. D daily. Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$

H Tujague’s Louisianian Fare 823 Decatur St., 525-8676, TujaguesRestaurant.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$

H Tableau Louisianian Fare 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, TableauFrenchQuarter.com. B Mon-Fri, L Mon-Sat, D daily, Brunch Sat-Sun. Gulf seafood such as Redfish Bienville and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Hussard are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le Petite Théâtre. $$$

Garden District Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s AMERICAN 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$

H The Bistreaux Louisianian Fare New Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000, MaisonDupuy.com/dining. html. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Dishes ranging

District Donuts Sliders Brew AMERICAN 2209 Magazine Street, 570-6945, DonutsAndSliders.com. B, L, D daily. Creative sliders (hello, pork belly) and super-creative


donuts (think root beer float) are the hallmarks of this next-generation café. $ Hoshun Restaurant Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, HoshunRestaurant.com. L, D daily. A wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Private dining rooms available. $$

H Mr. John’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, MrJohnsSteakhouse.com. D Tue-Sat, L Fri-Sat. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$ Lakeview

H Cava Louisianian Fare 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034. D daily. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big part of the experience. $$$

H Mondo World 900 Harrison Ave., 2242633, MondoNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. This place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$ Lower Garden District The Tasting Room Gastropub 1906 Magazine St., 581-3880, TTRNewOrleans. com. D Tue-Sun. Flights of wine and sophisticated small plates are the calling cards for this wine bar. $$ Metairie H Andrea’s Restaurant Italian 3100 19th St., 834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.com.

L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$ Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Austin’s Louisianian Fare 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo.com. D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$ Boulevard American Bistro AMERICAN 4241 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-2301. L, D daily. Classic American cuisine including steaks, chops and more is augmented by regional favorites like Boulevard Oysters at this Metairie bistro. $$$ café B AMERICAN 2700 Metairie Road, 9344700, cafeB.com. D daily, L Mon-Fri. Br Sun. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this familyfriendly neighborhood spot. $$$ Caffe! Caffe! AMERICAN 3547 N. Hullen St., 267-9190. B, L Mon-Sat. & 4301 Clearview Parkway, 885-4845. B, L daily; D Mon-Sat. CaffeCaffe.com Healthy, refreshing meal options, and gourmet coffee and espresso drinks create a tasteful retreat for Metairie diners at a reasonable price. $ Crabby Jack’s Louisianian Fare 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, CrabbyJacksNola.com. L Mon-Sat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s. Famous for its fried

seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 831-4141, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$ Don’s Seafood seafood 4801 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-1550, DonsSeafoodOnline.com. L, D Daily. Metairie outpost of historic local seafood chain that dates from 1934. Features an array of Cajun and seafood classics like their original ‘Jacked Up’ Oysters and seafood platters. Don’t miss their happy hour specials. $$$ Drago’s Louisianian Fare 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$ Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant Seafood 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, AustinsNo.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris. com. L Fri, D daily. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution, and great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sucré Specialty Foods 3301 Veterans Blvd.,

834-2277, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available. Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D MonSat. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Mid-City

H Crescent City Steaks Steakhouse 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, CrescentCitySteaks.com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D Tue-Sun. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$ Five Happiness Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, FiveHappiness.com. L, D daily. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and housebaked duck. $$ Gracious Bakery + Café Bakery/Breakfast 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, GraciousBakery.com. B, L daily. Boutique bakery offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $

H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar Louisianian Fare 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, KatiesInMidCity.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br

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Sun. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$

H Liuzza’s Italian 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120, Liuzzas.com. L, D daily. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. $$

H Mandina’s Louisianian Fare 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, MandinasRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

H Mona’s Café World 3901 Banks St., 4827743. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros. The lentil soup and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H MoPho Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoNola.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-and-match pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$ Parkway Bakery and Tavern AMERICAN 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys. com. L, D Wed-Mon. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $ Ralph’s On The Park louisianaian fare 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, RalphsOnThePark.

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com. Br Sat., Sun, L Tue-Fri, D daily. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$

H Toups’ Meatery Louisianian Fare 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery. com. L, D Tue-Sat. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$ Multiple Locations Café du Monde Bakery/Breakfast CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ CC’s Coffee House Bakery/Breakfast CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $ Copeland’s Louisianian Fare CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$ Little Tokyo Asian Fusion/Pan Asian LittleTokyoNola.com. L, D daily. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$ Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN MartinWineCellar.com. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, burgers,

soups, salads and deli-style sandwiches. $ Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House Seafood MrEdsRestaurants.com/oyster-bar. L, D daily. A seafood lover’s paradise offers an array of favorites like shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffée, blackened redfish and more. A raw bar featuring gulf oysters both charbroiled and raw. $$$

offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$ Brigtsen’s Louisianian Fare 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Brigtsens.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

HCarrollton Market AMERICAN 8132

Reginelli’s Pizzeria pizza Reginellis.com. L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$

Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket. com. L Sat-Sun, D Tue-Sat. Modern Southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/Breakfast

Upper 9th Ward St. Roch Market Louisianian Fare 2381 St. Claude Ave., 615-6541, StRochMarket.com. B, L, D daily. Historic St. Claude Marketplace with open dining space houses a broad collection of independent eateries including craft cocktails and more. $$

TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$ Theo’s Pizza TheosPizza.com. L, D daily. The cracker-crisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with local ingredients at cheap prices. $$ Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill AMERICAN ZeaRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular spot serves a variety of grilled items, appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Catering services available. $$$ Riverbend

H Boucherie Louisianian Fare 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-5514, BoucherieNola.com. L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet

Uptown Audubon Clubhouse AMERICAN 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute. org. B, L Tue-Sat, Br Sun. A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Bouligny Tavern Gastropub 3641 Magazine St., 891-1810, BoulignyTavern.com. D MonSat. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$ Camellia Grill AMERICAN 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 309-2679. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have


returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $ Casamento’s Louisianian Fare 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, CasamentosRestaurant.com. L Thu-Sat, D ThuSun. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$ Clancy’s Louisianian Fare 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, ClancysNewOrleans.com. L ThuFri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$ Commander’s Palace Louisianian Fare 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, CommandersPalace.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The grande dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Awardwinner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$

H Coquette French 2800 Magazine St., 265-0421, CoquetteNola.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from the chefs. $$$ Dick and Jenny’s Louisianian Fare 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys. com. D Mon-Sat. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$

H Gautreau’s Louisianian Fare 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along H La Crêpe Nanou French 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, LaCrepeNanou.com. D daily,

Br Sun. Classic French bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes, are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ La Petite Grocery French 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, LaPetiteGrocery.com. L Tue-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily Frenchinspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ Lilette French 3637 Magazine St., 8951636, LiletteRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

H Magasin Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4201 Magazine St., 896-7611, MagasinCafe.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budget-friendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $ Pascal’s Manale Italian 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, PascalsManale.com. L MonFri, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood favorite since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$

H Patois World 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, PatoisNola.com. L Fri, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. French food, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron

Burgau. Reservations recommended. $$$ Pizza Domenica pizza 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, PizzaDomenica.com. L Fri-Sun, D daily. A pizza centric spinoff of the popular Restaurant Domenica brings Neapolitanstyle pies to Uptown. Excellent salads and charcuterie boards are offered as well. $$

H Shaya World 4213 Magazine St., 8914213, ShayaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. James Beard Award-winning menu pays homage to Israel at this contemporary Israeli hotspot. $$$ Sucré Specialty Foods 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily & nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

H The Company Burger Burgers 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger. com. L, D daily. Custom-baked butter-brushed buns and fresh-ground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $ The Delachaise Gastropub 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, TheDelaichaise.com. D daily. Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$ H Upperline AMERICAN 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Upperline.com. D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger

presents this nationally heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$ H Wayfare AMERICAN 4510 Freret St., 3090069, WayfareNola.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Creative sandwiches and southern-inspired small plates. $$ Ye Olde College Inn AMERICAN 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933. com. D Tue-Sat. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$ Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, VicentsItalianCuisine. com. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Warehouse District Lucy’s World 710 Tchoupitoulas St., 5238995, LucysRetiredSurfers.com. L, D daily. Island-themed oasis with a menu that cherrypicks tempting dishes from across the globe’s tropical latitudes. Popular for lunch, and the after-work crowds stay into the wee hours. $

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Ashley McLellan at Ashley@MyNewOrleans.com

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Summer Specials

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acation season is upon us, and if you’re in a city like New Orleans, you’re already in one of the best vacation destinations you can imagine. Known for its food, shopping, and entertainment, the Crescent City is ready to show off with summer specials that abound across the city. As local restaurants and shops all vie for attention, locals and visitors win with discounts and promotions that make eating a world-class meal or buying a gift easier and more affordable than ever. From happy hours with discounted snacks, wines, beer, and cocktails to two- and three-course meals highlighting seasonal fare, summer is a great time to dine out. Additionally, local health and wellness opportunities abound to get you feeling good and active before a busy fall hits. Museums offer exciting summer exhibitions and events for passing the slow summer days, and local hotels welcome vacationers and staycationers looking to head down into the heart of the city. Check out the following summer specials for ideas and more.

Restaurants, Bars & Special Event Venues Temperature Lunch, the popular New Orleans summer dining tradition, continues with its 25th year at Palace Café. To celebrate the anniversary, Palace Café is joined by sister restaurants Bourbon House and Tableau, who will also offer temperature lunch specials. Keeping with tradition, two courses are priced at the previous day’s high temperature; if they high is 85° on Monday, count on Tuesday’s $8.50 lunch. Temperature lunch is available Monday through Friday now through Labor Day. Guests choose between a soup or salad first course. Second course entrée options change daily based on local, seasonal ingredients. 8 8 JULY 2019 myneworleans.com

“Temperature Lunch is synonymous with summer lunch. Locals love it and frequently dine with us more than once a week—in fact we have a few guests we see daily. This year, with the addition of our other restaurants, we hope to give guests even more variety,” says Palace Café owner, Dickie Brennan. Past entrees have included Crawfish Gnocchi, Louisiana Crab Cake, and BBQ Shrimp. For this season’s daily specials, follow Palace Café, Bourbon House, and Tableau on Facebook and Instagram, and check the events pages at PalaceCafe.com, BourbonHouse.com, and TableauFrenchQuarter.com. Find all of “Nawlins'” favorites at New Orleans Cajun Cookery, located just outside the French Quarter at 719 S. Peters Street in the CBD. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the Cajun Cookery is perfect for visitors and downtown professionals alike. Highlights of the menu include Chicken & Waffles, Shrimp & Grits, seafood platters, and poboys. The Cookery’s full bar features hand-crafted cocktails and a vast selection of craft beers from Louisiana’s growing list of breweries. Pony up to the bar between 3 - 6 p.m. and enjoy $5 drinks and appetizers. Outdoor seating is available and perfect for those breezy summer mornings, afternoons, and evenings. For more information on the restaurant and its offerings, call 504407-0653. Celebrate Summer 2019 in the heart of the French Quarter with family and friends at New Orleans Creole Cookery with a threecourse lunch for only $20.19 (Monday-Friday, 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.).


sponsored Famous for its authentic Creole fare and the time-honored classics such as Gumbo, Shrimp Creole, Crawfish Etouffee, and Snapper Pontchartrain, the restaurant is also perfect for a cold beverage and fresh oysters at the oyster bar. New Orleans Creole Cookery is everything you love about New Orleans in a setting to fit every occasion. Enjoy casual fine dining at its very best in your choice of the charming Toulouse Lautrec dining room, romantic courtyard, or lively oyster bar. Each offers a Creoleinspired menu complemented by tempting handcrafted cocktails. Located at 510 Toulouse Street in one of New Orleans’ oldest and most storied locations, New Orleans Creole Cookery is just steps from French Quarter excitement. New Orleans Creole Cookery is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. for lunch and dinner, and a jazz brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. until 2 p.m. Learn more at NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com. Call 504-524-9632 for reservations. This summer, visit the Warehouse District’s recent addition, Briquette, at 701 S. Peters Street. Owned by Anna Tusa of New Orleans Creole Cookery and helmed by Chef Guy Sockrider, Briquette puts seafood and contemporary coastal cuisine at the center of the dining experience. As the name indicates, the restaurant features a large charcoal grill to highlight the fresh coastal flavors. The menu emphasizes small plates for sharing the variety of fish and seafood, including whole grilled fish. Other flavorful menu items include aged beef, pastas, and more. The bar at Briquette features a curated wine list to accompany the menu along with specialty, hand-crafted cocktails. Start a new tradition this summer with delicious food shared with friends and family together at Briquette during a refreshing happy hour, daily from 3 – 6 p.m. Happy hour features a variety of cocktail, beer, and wine specials. For more information and reservations, visit Briquette online at Briquette-Nola.com or on Facebook. Lunch is available Monday through Friday beginning at 11 a.m. Voted Tops of the Town #1 Brunch by New Orleans Magazine for the third year in a row, Red Gravy celebrates summer with a number of new dishes and specials by Owner Roseann Melisi Rostoker. While keeping all the menu favorites—especially anything with a meatball—the restaurant has recently added new items, including the popular fried chicken and biscuits served with a white sausage gravy and the mac and cheese turnover served with eggs and red gravy. Other specials include skillet cakes, browned-butter pancakes filled with a variety of items like jam, fresh fruit, bacon, and candied walnuts served piping hot from the oven, and the ever-changing burger, a 6-oz. patty dressed differently each week. Roseann has also been busy baking, adding croissants, danishes, turnovers, and muffins in addition to the restaurant’s popular raspberry zeppoles and homemade cannoli. Look for specials all summer long inspired by Roseann’s travels. Since seating is limited, reservations are recommended. View the menu and make reservations online at RedGravyCafe.com, or call 504561-8844. Summer is packed with food-related fun for all ages at Ralph Brennan restaurants across the city. Ralph’s on the Park brings back their popular summer special (July – September) of 3 Appetizers + a Glass of Wine for $33. Choose from appetizers such as Duck and Mushroom Tart, Blackened Shrimp Tartine, Crab Spaetzle, Oysters Skully, Seafood Broken Rice Risotto, Grilled Vegas Strip, and more. Brennan’s Summer Manners Class offers children ages 5-8 a chance to up their table etiquette, meet Brennan’s famous turtles, and enjoy a three-course breakfast. The class is offered Tuesdays in July from 9 a.m. – 11 a.m. Take a Taste of History Tour at Napoleon House Wednesdays, 3 – 4 p.m., and Saturdays, 11 a.m. – 12 p.m, in July and August. For

only $25, enjoy a tour of the 200-year-old landmark with an engaging tour of Napoleon’s intended residence along with ¼ muffaletta and a Pimm’s cup cocktail. Beginning July 12th, Café NOMA’s 2019 “The Artful Palate” complimentary summer cooking series will feature seven artfully inspired demos with Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group chefs every Friday in July and August at 6 p.m. Visit each restaurant’s website for details. Located in the Lower Garden District and just blocks from Downtown New Orleans, Hoshun Restaurant delivers a flavorful punch of pan-Asian flavors with their own take on traditional dishes from China, Japan, Vietnam, and other South-Asian countries. Popular menu items include pho soup and five-pepper calamari, pad Thai, sushi, General Tsao’s Chicken, Hunan steak, Kung Pao shrimp, and more. Enjoy family-style dining in an elegant atmosphere while sharing your favorite appetizers, entrees, combination dinners, and sushi specials. Open daily until 2 a.m., Hoshun is a favorite late-night spot for locals and visitors alike. Whether you’re looking for seafood, steak, or vegetarian fare, Hoshun’s extensive menu provides options for everyone. Salt & Pepper Shrimp and Ahi Tuna Seared are a couple of Hoshun's seafood specialties, while Butter Pepper Mignon offers a meatier possibility. For menu and information, visit HoshunRestaurant.com or call 504-302-9716. Located at 1601 St. Charles Ave., Hoshun offers a private party room overlooking the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line fitting between 25-70 people. At Commander’s Palace, Executive Chef Tory McPhail, along with the support of an experienced team of sous chefs, serves haute Creole dishes that continue to delight the discerning locals and visitors of New Orleans. The restaurant is known as a place where memories are made. Commander’s Palace recently celebrated its 125th anniversary and was named Restaurant of the Year 2018 by Nola.com/The Times-Picayune. This summer, enjoy a refreshing Sunset on the Patio #2, a delicious cocktail of Don Q Cristal Rum, fresh lime, and Mandarin Napoleon, finished with strawberry liqueur. A new take on a sunny Commander’s Classic, the cocktail is served with your own pair of Commander’s Palace sunglasses, ideal for the beach or a summer jaunt. Planning a dinner party? Commander’s Palace makes entertaining easy. The restaurant’s experienced party planner will work with you to tailor every aspect of the event to your liking. Enjoy dinner seven days a week, lunch Monday through Friday, and jazz brunch on the weekends. For reservations and more, visit CommandersPalace.com. Spend summer outdoors with a glass of wine in the serene courtyard at Effervescence Bubbles & Bites. Enjoy the peaceful fountain, relax on the outdoor couch, or grab a sidewalk table on North Rampart and treat yourself to bubbles. The impressive wine list spans the globe, including over 80 Champagnes by the bottle and 30 sparklers by the glass. Every Wednesday, Effervescence pops open a magnum of Champagne to pour by the glass—double the excuse to celebrate midweek. Flights are the perfect way to explore the list, available by the full or half glass. Try their summer sparkling rosé flight for a fun, crisp and fruity sparkling adventure. The full bar also serves bubbly cocktails, beer, and spirits. Effervescence’s bites menu features fresh and local ingredients prepared by the Michelin-trained chef couple. Highlights include a Caviar Service, Dry-Aged Louisiana Wagyu, Pommes Frites and their signature Gulf Seafood Plateau, featuring five local, refreshing, and thoughtful seafood preparations. Effervescence is open Wednesday-Sunday; for hours, menus, and event bookings, visit NolaBubbles.com. Look for upcoming events including wine classes and outdoor movie screenings. Limited reservations available on OpenTable.

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Mr. Ed’s has been a local favorite since 1989 and is still regarded as among the best eateries in New Orleans today. Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar serves your choice of chargrilled, fried, or raw oysters as well as longtime favorites such as Oyster Rockefeller and Bienville. Offering both a stand-up oyster bar and cocktail bar, it's the perfect place to relax and enjoy. With five unique locations across Greater New Orleans, including the newest, second French Quarter location at 821 Iberville St., Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House brings its fresh seafood, poboys, platters, and specialties to Metairie, the French Quarter, Mid-City, and St. Charles Avenue. “Mr. Ed” McIntyre also oversees Mr. Ed’s Seafood & Italian Restaurant of Metairie and Kenner, Austin’s Seafood & Steakhouse of Metairie, and The Pearl Room of Harahan. Explore each savory menu at MrEdsRestaurants.com. Offering modern elegance and the celebrated cuisine of Mr. Ed’s Restaurant Group, The Pearl Room is the metro area’s exceptional new venue for receptions, banquets, and special events. Located in Harahan, The Pearl Room combines exquisite ambiance, quality professional service, and decadent, diverse menus to create seamless, memorable occasions for guests. Whether planning a gorgeous ceremony at dusk under The Pearl Room’s stately entrance portico or a spectacular night-time event with the grounds magnificently illuminated, The Pearl Room can customize and complete every detail of your event. From simple to lavish, small to grand-scale, The Pearl Room’s packages offer flexible options for a number of different occasions. An extensive reception menu features the best of Mr. Ed’s Restaurant Group culinary team, from New Orleans favorites like crawfish ettouffe, crab cakes, and fried seafood to reception classics like carving stations and Italian entrees. “We work with each client individually to review our menus and customize details,” says Amanda McIntyre, Banquet Manager. For more information, call 504-737-0604, email pearlroomnola@gmail.com, or visit MrEdsRestaurants.com. 9 0 JULY 2019 myneworleans.com

Stop in this summer to one of New Orleans’ most famous and historic sandwich shops; Parkway Bakery & Tavern has been serving up the legendary poor boy sandwich and other local favorites for over 100 years. Since 1911, Parkway has been a familyrun business with a reputation for high-quality, delicious food and authentic New Orleans hospitality. Featured on The Travel Channel, Food Network, in Oprah Magazine, and elsewhere, Parkway continues to be a welcoming, local institution at the corner of Hagan & Toulouse Streets in MidCity, right on Bayou St. John. Its robust menu of over 25 different poor boys—plus plenty of seating and parking, a full bar, and more— means there's something for everyone at Parkway. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, Parkway has a seat waiting for you. The restaurant is proud to provide a taste of home for past residents who’ve had to move away and yet return regularly to connect with the city through food, laughter, and friendship. Parkway is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily and closed on Tuesdays. For more information, visit ParkwayPoorboys.com. This summer, stop by any of the Tropical Isles, home of the Hand Grenade®, New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink® and the Hand Grenade® Martini. Also, enjoy a Hand Grenade® at Funky Pirate Blues & Music Club or Bayou Club. Experience Trop Rock, Cajun/ Zydeco & the Blues with Tropical Isle’s nightly entertainment, the best on Bourbon. State-of-the-art sound systems plus great live bands will keep you dancing the night away at Tropical Isle Bourbon, Tropical Isle Original, Little Tropical Isle, Funky Pirate and the Bayou Club. While there, ask about the Hand Grenade® Martini. Enjoy big screen TVs at Funky Pirate, Bayou Club, Tropical Isle Bourbon and Top of the Trop. For more on Tropical Isle, visit TropicalIsle.com. Don’t let French Quarter construction fool you—all locations are open! For a quiet escape with available courtyard dining, visit local favorite The Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro right off of Bourbon at 720 Orleans Ave., which has more than 200 varieties of wine by the bottle and plenty of wine by the glass, plus a Bacon Happy Hour. For sample menus and wine lists, visit OrleansGrapevine.com.


sponsored Located on Magazine Street, Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco brings exceptional, authentic Peruvian cuisine to Uptown New Orleans. Helmed by Executive Chef and Owner Juan Lock, Tito’s features seafood favorites such as Ceviche Criollo (gulf fish) and Ceviche Nikkei (yellowfin tuna) in addition to Arroz con Mariscos, a popular Peruvian style paella. The menu also features a number of well-spiced beef, duck, and lamb dishes, including Anticuchos de Res (hangar steak) and the Lomo Saltado (tenderloin tips). The restaurant takes great pride in freshness, offering the highest quality ingredients in its dishes and handcrafted cocktails. The bar at Tito’s is famous for its selection of Piscos, a Peruvian-made brandy. Sip a Lychee Cocktail or Cucumber Mule, or indulge in the variety of selections of Pisco cocktails with a fruity blend of tropical juices. Happy hour runs Monday through Friday, 3 p.m. – 6 p.m., and features a variety of drinks and small plates perfect for satisfying late afternoon cravings. For more information, and reservations, visit TitosCevichePisco.com or call the restaurant at 504-267-7612. Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco is located Uptown at 5015 Magazine Street. Justine is a brasserie in New Orleans’ historic French Quarter. Opened by husband-and-wife team Justin and Mia Devillier, Justine combines the sophistication of Parisian brasseries with the playfulness of the South’s most lively district. Featuring dishes like Poisson Amandine, Fois Gras Torchon, and Moules Frites, the menu honors the technique and simplicity of French classics, while evoking the senses with exciting, grand presentation. Nightly entertainment adds flare to Justine’s Parisian ambiance with a variety of entertainers from burlesque dancers to weekend DJs. True to the heart of French brasserie culture, the multi-roomed restaurant offers a versatile space to be enjoyed by all, whether it’s for a weekday lunch, afternoon glass of wine, celebratory dinner, or late-night revelry. The café side opens to the Chartres Street sidewalk, emulating the quintessential Parisian-street experience. The kitchen room is anchored by two large communal tables overlooking the kitchen led by James Beard Award Winning-Chef Justin Devillier, and in the smoked-mirror-embellished bar room, Bar Director Jesse Carr embraces French spirits and the drinking culture that surrounds them. For reservations and information about private dining, visit JustineNola.com.

Health & Wellness At Love Swimming Swim School, students of all ages are taught by a team of expert adult instructors who are passionate about teaching. Through safe, fun, and small classes, Love Swimming strives to provide swimmers with a strong foundation of love and respect for the water. Love Swimming's teachers motivate individuals to explore their abilities beyond their fears and expectations. With an indoor facility, Love Swimming Swim School never gets rained out, and their heated pools create a comfortable learning environment where swimmers can get right to swimming. This comfort is key to accelerating the learning process and developing strong safety skills that will last a lifetime. The organization believes swimming is the best exercise for babies, kids, and adults and offers classes for ages six months to adult. Begin your swimming adventures for both fun and exercise by starting lessons now. Call 504-891-4662 or visit LoveSwimming.com. After pursuing her own journey in weight loss and experiencing remarkable success, Registered Nurse Peggy Rodriguez became passionate about helping others get and stay healthy. Since founding EveryBody Wellness in 2008, Peggy has built lifelong relationships with clients by educating them on how to both lose weight and maintain it. “Losing weight is intimate and can be an intimidating process.

There is no single path that works for everyone, and everyone’s goals are different,” says Peggy. The Ideal Protein Weight Loss Method at EveryBody Wellness is scientifically proven—it is dependable, repeatable, and predictable. Based on the principles of being a low calorie, low carb, low fat, and “right amount of” protein protocol, the program helps clients lose fat pounds while maintaining muscle mass. EveryBody Wellness’s team of registered nurses, dieticians, nutritionists and certified weight loss coaches educate clients in the understanding of the impact food has on the body, the mechanism that helps lose fat, and the food combinations that may lead to fat storage. To learn more and read success stories, visit EveryBodyWellnessNola.com.

Shopping Now is the perfect time to visit PERLIS Clothing in Uptown New Orleans, the French Quarter, Mandeville, and Baton Rouge. A large selected group of quality summer clothing for men, ladies, and boys is 20% to 50% off during the Summer Sale through the end of July. A true family clothing tradition since 1939, PERLIS remains committed to complete customer satisfaction with long-time knowledgeable employees and unparalleled service including complimentary lifetime expert alterations. “We are ever-expanding our inventory with the newest names in designer merchandise while continuing to offer time-tested classic labels," says David W. Perlis, President. "Customers while traveling are often sharing with us via social media images of our iconic crawfish logo clothing they see people wearing all over the world. Look for exciting new additions to our crawfish collection soon." The men's formal wear sales and rental department is renowned for proper dress and a wide selection. Ample off street parking is available at all locations. Visit Perlis.com. Claudia Croazzo is a bespoke international fashion house founded in 2016 by UK designer Claudia Croazzo. The fashion house specializes in affordable couture collections as well as bespoke madeto-measure gowns for the perfect red-carpet look. Claudia Croazzo’s unique, sleek, and sophisticated style takes inspiration from her Italian heritage and each collection tells a story. From ready to wear fashion, black label dresses and jumpsuits to beachwear, the elegant and playful designs of Claudia Croazzo are available at the exclusive United States location on Magazine Street in New Orleans. Claudia’s designs have been showcased at official LFW closing events, published in numerous fashion editorials, including UK Elle and Vogue, and worn at many red carpet events. All items are thoughtfully designed, fabric sourced by Claudia Croazzo herself, and tailored to her personal taste. For more information or to shop online, visit ClaudiaCroazzo.com. Visit the Uptown New Orleans fashion house at 4214 Magazine Street. The lazy days of summer are upon us, and it’s a perfect time to walk the French Quarter and visit the unique shops and beautiful galleries. Just in time for the season, lovely cotton dresses in colorful prints await you at A. Renee Boutique. In fact, the entire store is full of color— unique designers and fun fashion such as reversible cotton skirts, bold shoulder tops in seven shades, fun dancing/date dresses, elegant evening wear, Kent Stetson bags, and locally made jewelry add to the fun and flare of summer. A. Renee Boutique stocks Misses/Women sizing from XS-XL. Shop online from the comfort of home at AReneeBoutique.com. Follow the fashion boutique on Facebook and Instagram at @AReneeBoutiqueNOLA. For more information, text or call 504-4181448 or email AReneeBoutique@gmail.com myneworleans.com JULY 2019 9 1


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A stay at the contemporary, boutique hotel known as The Troubadour offers visitors and staycationers a personal retreat within the lively and convenient New Orleans Central Business District. Located just blocks from the theater district and charming French Quarter, The Troubadour Hotel is the ideal locale to take it all in as you get away from it all. Whether your plans entail dinner at a world-renowned restaurant and a show at an historic theater or a night wandering the blues and jazz clubs of Bourbon and Frenchmen Streets, The Troubadour Hotel provides a luxurious respite for all kinds of discerning culture-seekers. The Troubadour offers summer packages and specials for visitors looking for an above-average hotel stay. Rooms are outfitted with authentic original artwork, and modern amenities such as Keurig coffeemakers, Igloo fridges, 42” flat screen televisions with premium channels, and Bluetooth-ready alarm clocks. Visit TheTroubadour.com to view specials and book your exceptional downtown New Orleans stay. Combining historic restoration and new construction, The Historic New Orleans Collection’s (THNOC) brand new exhibition center at 520 Royal St. houses a continuing exhibition on the history of the French Quarter, changing exhibitions, dynamic interactive displays, an immersive film, an educational space, café, and shop. Like THNOC’s other locations, admission is free. As the inaugural exhibition of the new facility, Art of the City: Postmodern to Post-Katrina, presented by The Helis Foundation, explores the influence of history on contemporary art. The spacious new galleries beautifully showcase works of more than 75 artists. Visitors looking for a more enhanced experience may want to consider the exhibition-related programming offered in July. These events include live oral history recordings on July 13 with artists Willie Birch, Keith Calhoun, Chandra McCormick, and Robert Tannen; a book club discussion on July 17 with Rebecca Snedeker, author of Unfathomable City: A New Orleans Atlas; “Stoop Stories” on July 20, a monthly series of informal gallery talks with artists from the show. For more details and other events, visit hnoc.org.

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Travel & Entertainment Come play on the final day that Louisiana Children's Museum (LCM) on Julia Street is open to the public, and enjoy your favorite exhibits one last time. The beloved museum will be reopening later this year in a new location inside New Orleans City Park. In the meantime, join in the last-day on Julia Street celebration and receive a temporary tattoo of LCM’s red logo house, decorate a second line hanky with LCM colors, get a special LCM logo sticker, and sign your name on one of the Big Blue Doors! The 1:45 p.m. Countdown to Closing, reminiscent of LCM’s beloved annual Countdown to Noon, will include balloons and confetti released together one last time. The celebration takes place July 27th, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. Tickets run $2.50 per person for LCM members, the price for admission on the museum’s original opening day in 1986. Admission for nonmembers runs $10 per person. For more information and to learn about other July activities at the museum, visit LCM.org or call 504-523-1357.

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With Southern Refinishing, you don’t get a contractor— you get a family. Southern Refinishing offers more than 40 years of experience in bathroom and kitchen reglazing projects for customers in the Gulf South. In addition to saving homeowners the cost of replacing their bathroom and kitchen fixtures, the company’s goal is to make every customer’s experience as comfortable and painless as possible. They know how stressful it can be to have a contractor disrupting your personal space, so the company works to minimize disruption throughout the remodeling process. From walls, countertops, and sinks to fiberglass and acrylic tub repairs and tub/shower conversions to clawfoot tubs, Southern Refinishing has the equipment and expertise to work with any fixture. A local New Orleans company, Southern Refinishing is experienced with both small and large jobs, from residential homes to commercial projects such as hotels. Get a customized quote today by calling 504-348-1770. Visit SouthernRefinishing.com for a gallery of projects and additional information. •


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Scarlet pearl casino resort

Gambling

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here’s nothing like the thrill of a jackpot, and you just might hit one when you take an outing with friends to one of the region’s many exciting casinos and resorts. Gambling responsibly can make for a memorable bachelor or bachelorette party experience with friends, a lighthearted competition with family, or an exciting way to spend an afternoon in a high-stakes card game. Casinos offer much more than gambling, too, with fine dining restaurants, expansive buffets, causal bites, and more. Casino resorts often offer additional amenities such as relaxing pools, luxurious hotel accommodations, and live entertainment. Set aside a little extra cash this summer and consider an outing to one of the region’s Gulf Coast casinos. Whether you end up with a pair of aces or a pair of twos, you’re bound to come home with a story to tell.

Win a trip to Hollywood at Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort, located on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Scarlet Pearl is offering players a chance to win a trip to a Wheel of Fortune® live taping in Hollywood, California. Players can qualify to be in the Elimination Round by placing in the top 10 from one of the qualifying slot tournaments: June 9, June 28, July 4, July 7, July 16 and July 23. The top 10 winner from each of these slot tournaments will advance to the $35,000 Wheel of Fortune® Vintage Slot Tournament on Friday, July 26 in Big Slicks. The first-place winner from the Champion Final Round on Saturday, July 27 will receive $5,000 cash towards an exclusive trip with a guest to watch a live taping of Wheel of Fortune® in Hollywood. Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort—your home away from home. Book your next ultimate getaway at ScarletPearlCasino.com or call 888-BOOK-SPC. •

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End of Summer Travel

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oak up summer while it lasts with a little fun in the sun along the Gulf Coast. From Texas to Florida, opportunities abound for making family memories this vacation season. The Gulf of Mexico provides easy beach access for travelers while an abundance of lakes makes water sports and swimming accessible farther inland. Resorts, hotels, and vacation rentals make for luxurious homes away from home while you relax and laugh with loved ones with your toes in the water of the ocean, the lake, or the pool. Travel to or through New Orleans and experience big city fun in the way of cocktails and live music, fine art, and historic tours. However you’d like to spend the end of summer this year, you’ll likely find a suitable spot for your adventure among the following travel destinations and activities. It’s not too late to get in on all the wonderful offerings this region provides during the warm, summer months of July, August, and September.

Louisiana The historic Royal Frenchmen Hotel enjoys the distinction of being the sole, luxury boutique hotel in the midst of all of the action and entertainment of Frenchmen Street. But behind its historic walls, the hotel offers much more than its luxury accommodations. The bar at Royal Frenchmen Hotel has recently been named the #3 hotel bar in New Orleans in the Where Y’at Best of the Big Easy Awards behind only the storied French Quarter Carousel and Sazerac bars. The Royal Frenchmen Hotel bar offers live music daily. Happy hour brings daily $3 martinis from 4 – 7 p.m., a perfect way to relax in the afternoon as music begins to fill the streets. The hotel’s beautiful and spacious courtyard can accommodate up 9 4 JULY 2019 myneworleans.com

to 150 guests for weddings and other special events, placing guests right in the heart of New Orleans’ musical and cultural epicenter. Learn more about the Royal Frenchmen Hotel and book your stay or event by visiting RoyalFrenchmenHotel.com or by calling 504-619-9660. A stay at the Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery in New Orleans offers much more than a comfortable room. Known for its commitment to New Orleans’ artistic community, the Old No. 77 is excited to announce its new exhibition, Cultural Convergence: The Architecture of New Orleans. Opening on White Linen Night, August 3, 2019, the show will be curated by local Trapolin-Peer architect Gene Guidry along with Where Y’art. An intersection of the prevailing cultural attitudes that have shaped New Orleans’ architecture, Cultural Convergence is a look at the influences of French, Spanish, and American styles, overlain with the distinctive Creole character that have become synonymous with the city’s unique neighborhoods. From the grand Greek Revival homes in the Garden District to the colorful Creole cottages in the Marigny, the city’s history and dominant social trends can be witnessed from front porch to inner courtyard. The Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery is located in the Warehouse Arts District, three blocks from the French Quarter and a short stroll from the Convention Center. Book online at Old77Hotel.com. This summer, soak in a bit of Louisiana history with a visit to beautiful St. Joseph Plantation, where you can walk through time and enjoy a glimpse into the lives of the fascinating people who have


sponsored called it home. Thanks to the plantation’s historic allure, scenes from All The King’s Men, Skeleton Key, 12 Years a Slave, Underground, Queen Sugar, the remake of Roots, and four-time Oscar nominee Mudbound were filmed at St. Joseph Plantation. Additionally, the plantation plays host to a number of weddings and private events throughout the year. Tour the grounds and learn about the Priestly family and grandson H. H. Richardson, who was born at St. Joseph and became one of America’s most important architects of the 19th century. Explore the story of Valcour Aime, known as “The Louis XIV of Louisiana,” and his two daughters, and learn about the slaves that lived and worked here. A thriving sugarcane plantation, St. Joseph also offers insight into the region’s significant sugarcane industry. Visit StJosephPlantation.com or call 225-265-4078 for information on tours and private events.

Mississippi Big Bay Lake is a one-of-a-kind planned community on Mississippi's largest private recreational lake. Located just outside of Hattiesburg, Big Bay Lake blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Homesites are available on the water starting at $100,000. Both the homes and homesites within this community provide unique opportunities to create the perfect home or weekend getaway. It’s time to relax, unplug, make memories and create new traditions at Big Bay. Whether you are a boating or fishing enthusiast, or just a family who loves to make a big splash, Big Bay Lake is simply about the lure of the water. Come enjoy sun-kissed, fun-filled days at Big Bay Lake, where the little things make life… “Big!” Big Bay Lake is only 90 minutes from New Orleans. Call for a boat tour today at 877-4BIG-BAY or visit BigBayLake.com.

Alabama It’s never too late to fall in love with Alabama’s 32 miles of sugarwhite sand beaches. Gulf Shores and Orange Beach offer guests warm temperatures, pristine turquoise waters, and a plethora of fabulous attractions and restaurants that will keep you summering well into the fall. New to the area is its Signature Experiences program, which includes an escape room at Fort Morgan, guided kayak tours, animal encounters at the Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo, gumbo cooking classes at Lucy Buffett LuLu’s, private Chef’s Table dinners with Orange Beach Concierge, and much more. Whether you’re a young couple on your first getaway or a family of 20 on your annual vacation, there are many unique experiences available on the Alabama Gulf Coast to make your second summer one to remember. To learn more about Alabama’s beaches and start planning your trip, visit GulfShores.com or give their vacation specialists a call at 877-3412400. Unlike regular beach hotels cluttered together along the coast, The Lodge at Gulf State Park, A Hilton Hotel is a unique destination on the Alabama Gulf Coast with nature at its doorstep. Located within the beautiful 6,150-acre Gulf State Park, The Lodge at Gulf State Park provides luxurious accommodations with direct beach access, four dining options, 40,000 square feet of flexible event space, and miles of beach trails with the pristine coastal scenery of this natural wildlife habitat. During your stay, you'll connect with the outdoors on a whole new level. And in doing so, you'll be helping in the hotel’s conservation efforts to restore and maintain the beauty of this truly distinctive property. Each of the 350 non-smoking guest rooms, including 20 suites, weave comfort and sustainability with a contemporary flair. All rooms

bring the outdoors in by providing guests views of either The Gulf of Mexico or Lake Shelby/Gulf State Park. At The Lodge at Gulf State Park, doing nothing is really something. Book your summer vacation today by visiting LodgeAtGulfStatePark.com.

Florida Make the most of the summer travel season with an escape to Pensacola Beach, Florida, and the properties of Premier Island Management Group. Situated just a few hours outside of New Orleans along the Gulf of Mexico and the Gulf Island National Seashore, this collection of vacation rentals includes beach homes, condos, and the acclaimed skyhomes of Portofino Island Resort where families enjoy the perfect balance of indulgence, natural beauty, and adventure. Northwest Florida’s premier beach vacation experience offers plenty to do: explore the Santa Rosa Sound on a kayak or paddleboard, surf the emerald green waters of the Gulf, soar through the sky under a parasail, or board Portofino I and watch curious dolphins play in the water. Whether you want to spend time at the beach with your family, children, spouse or friends, guests of all ages will enjoy the properties of Premier Island. More than just another summer vacation, this will be one to remember for a lifetime. Discover yours at PremierIsland.com or call 866-966-1420.

Texas Don't wait to make a splash in one of the many beautiful Texas lakes perfect for family memory-making activities such as fishing, boating, tubing, and waterskiing. Holiday Inn Club Vacations® has a number of Texas properties to suit your family’s penchant for fun. Holiday Inn Club Vacations® Villages Resort is located on Lake Palestine and just a short drive from the Tyler Rose Garden and many other attractions. Holiday Inn Club Vacations® Piney Shores Resort sits on the Lake Conroe shore and is only about an hour from Houston. Holiday Inn Club Vacations® Hill Country Resort overlooks Canyon Lake and is about an hour away from both San Antonio and Austin. There are also beachfront resorts—sink your toes in the sands of the Gulf Coast at one of two beautiful Galveston Island resorts. Holiday Inn Club Vacations® Galveston Beach Resort is located directly on the beach and is great for kids and adults alike with numerous activities, while Holiday Inn Club Vacations® Galveston Seaside Resort offers both standard and luxurious Signature Collection villas in a relaxing escape farther down the island. Book your stay today at HolidayInnClubVacations.com.

Travel Resources There’s nothing like the feeling of jumping in the car and embarking on a long-awaited road trip. If there’s one thing that could ruin your journey, it’s unexpected car trouble. Fortunately, you can make sure your vacation stays on track with the peace of mind that accompanies AAA 24/7 Roadside Assistance. AAA covers you in any car, SUV or pick-up truck even if you’re not the driver. AAA provides members with free towing, free tire change, free lock-out assistance, free minor mechanical first aid, free jump start, and free delivery of emergency fuel. For a limited time, readers of New Orleans Magazine can join AAA for only $50 and get a second household member free (promo code 175494). Current AAA members can add one new household member free (promo code 175496). For more details, see AAA’s ad in this issue, visit your local AAA branch, call 844-330-2173, or visit AAA.com/ValuePromo. Join AAA today! •

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Senior Care

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lder adults may have similarly changing needs, but their interests and personalities are just as varied as they’ve always been. While some want to relax at home, others want to get out, hit the gym, or enjoy a social hour with friends. While some enjoy gardening and maintaining a lawn, others want to spend time on the computer or reading a book in the comfort of the A/C. Fortunately, there are numerous options available for older adults that both meet changing needs and provide for the unique wants and desires a person has for their living space and their healthcare. From in-home support and companionship services to active retirement communities, there are different ways to enjoy your senior years and receive the care and support that might become necessary over time. Additionally, local healthcare providers, pharmacies, and insurance providers can serve as resources with additional information that might be helpful in answering questions or solving problems for your older loved one and family.

In-Home Care Home Instead offers peace of mind for families of aging adults who wish to remain in the home. A local franchise owned by a New Orleans native, Home Instead offers the added benefit of staff who understand New Orleans’ culture and hospitality. Home Instead New Orleans has a team of fully trained CAREGiversSM who provide the care and companionship your loved one deserves. CAREGivers provide support through non-medical services like meal preparation, transportation, personal care, medication reminders, and more, while working in tandem when needed with healthcare providers, home health, and hospice. “Most older adults want to stay home, the place they know and love,” says owner Lisa Rabito. “Our focus is to build relationships first.” Available from eight hours a week to 24 hours a day, CAREGivers can take your loved one to church, the salon, and their weekly bridge game, or care for bed-bound clients who need full personal care, all while providing safety and companionship. Aging adults no longer in the home can also request Home Instead services at the retirement community or nursing facility where they reside. For more information, visit HomeInstead.com/339 or call 504-455-4911.

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Home Care Solutions, newly acquired by Poydras Home, specializes in compassionate inhome care, Alzheimer’s care, and Aging Life Care Management™ services to help your elderly loved ones extend their independence at home. They are committed to providing the highest quality of care, keeping loved ones safe and comfortable while giving families peace of mind. Caregivers are carefully matched to meet both your loved one’s needs and personality. Home Care Solutions Care Managers navigate the care of your loved ones with expertise and heart and are experienced advocates with creative solutions for complex situations and all care concerns. Care Managers’ familiarity with local resources saves you time and often saves you money while their compassionate understanding of the aging process saves you unnecessary distress. Home Care Solutions, a licensed Personal Care Attendant Agency, is a member of Home Care Association of America and Aging Life Care Association™. Call 504-828-0900 or visit HomeCareNewOrleans.com. Home Care Solutions would be honored to assist your family in navigating elder care.

Retirement Communities As an award-winning and full-service retirement center and community, Lambeth House offers the best of all worlds— independent living for active adults (ages 62+) plus a full continuum of care, including Assisted Living, Nursing Care, and Memory Care in the event it’s ever needed. With an exceptional approach to living and a focus on active aging, Lambeth House offers a full array of amenities including the fitness center with a stunning indoor, salt-water swimming pool, an art studio, meditation room and garden, fine and casual dining options, and engaging activities and social events. Nonresidents (55+) can access Fitness Center memberships, and Lambeth House’s Wild Azalea Café is open to the public for breakfast and lunch, Tuesday-Saturday. Nestled in the heart of Uptown and overlooking the Mississippi River, Lambeth House offers luxurious accommodations and was awarded the Design for Aging Merit Award by the American Institute of Architecture for the attention to detail in its last expansion. For more information, call 504-865-1960 or visit LambethHouse.com. Peristyle Residences offer Residential Assisted Living and Memory Care in the comfort of luxurious, intimate homes complete with private bedrooms and congregate dining and living areas. This alternative approach to senior living is ideal for seniors who seek assistance with day-to-day living in a more private, home-like setting than traditional assisted living communities can provide. Peristyle Residences consists of nine beautiful homes throughout Greater New Orleans. Old Metairie Gardens Memory Care Assisted Living Homes, opened in January, are the only senior living homes in Old Metairie. Peristyle’s quaint, lovely residences provide the highest level of care, comfort, and compassion possible to the seniors they serve, along with convenience and peace of mind for their loved ones. Expert consultation from Chef Aaron Burgau of Patois adds distinction and flavor to the healthy, delicious meals prepared at the community daily, and an array of stimulating activities, including an exceptional Music Therapy program, keeps residents active and engaged at home.


sponsored Peristyle Residences caregivers are highly trained in dementia care and have ample experience caring for seniors. Schedule a tour today at PeristyleResidences.com or by calling 504-517-3273.

Dentistry Oak Family Dental, the father-daughter-son dental team of Drs. Troy Sr., Jr., and Margaret “Garet” Patterson, can treat all your dental needs. With over 40 years of experience, this state-of-the-art practice has continued to adapt to offer top-of-the-line treatment by utilizing digital dental technology. As the population continues to age, many people are simply outliving their teeth. Studies now show a correlation between oral health and overall health. The team at Oak Family Dental recognizes this fact and stresses preventative treatment or possibly intervention therapy using new technology to restore the youth and beauty of patients’ real teeth. With the advent of digital dental technology, including radiology, impressions, same-day crowns, Invisalign, implants and cosmetics, Oak Family Dental continues to excel by offering the latest and greatest dentistry has to offer. A membership plan is available for non-insurance patients, which includes preventative and emergency visits at no charge, as well as a discount on all procedures. For more information, visit OakFamilyDental.com or call 504-834-6410.

Medication & Insurance Generations of families have turned to Patio Drugs for assistance in managing their healthcare needs. Family owned and operated since 1958, Patio Drugs helps customers understand their medications, both prescription and over-the-counter, and provides

free prescription delivery throughout East Jefferson. A full-service pharmacy and the oldest independent pharmacy in Jefferson Parish, Patio Drugs is also a leading provider of home medical equipment. For everything from a Band-Aid, to medication, to a hospital bed, Patio Drugs is the one-stop source for your family’s healthcare needs. In addition to providing retail and medical equipment, Patio Drugs can assist with long-term care as well as specialty and compounding services. Patio Drugs is accredited by The Joint Commission in Home Medical Equipment, Long Term Care, and Consultant Pharmacy Services. Their Compounding Pharmacy is PCAB accredited through ACHC. Patio Drugs is located at 5208 Veterans Boulevard in Metairie. For more information, call 504-889-7070. Patio Drugs, “Large Enough to Serve You, Yet, Small Enough to Know You.” As the state’s oldest and largest health insurer, Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana is committed to improving the health and lives of Louisianians. The company and its subsidiaries offer a full line of health insurance plans for people of every age—from birth through retirement, including supplemental coverage such as dental and senior plans, at affordable rates. The Blue Cross provider networks offer the peace of mind that comes with being covered by the Cross and Shield. Blue Cross is an independent licensee of the Blue Cross and Blue Shield Association and headquartered in Baton Rouge. To better serve customers, Blue Cross operates regional offices in Alexandria, Houma, Lafayette, Lake Charles, Monroe, New Orleans, and Shreveport. Louisiana-owned and operated, Blue Cross is a private, fully taxed mutual company owned by policyholders—not shareholders. To learn more, call a Blue Cross agent or visit bcbsla.com. •

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streetcar by errol laborde

A Dirge from the Pantheon At nearly 6 p.m. on Saturday,

June 8, a crowd gathered at the edge of the old Treme neighborhood outside the new Seven Three Distillery, where the locally made products include Gentilly Gin, Bywater Bourbon and Marigny Moonshine. Many in the group were costumed, some as variations of Elvis. They were there to remember Macon Moore. Earlier, good spirits had flowed freely inside as tributes were made to the deceased. Moore was a native of Richmond, Virginia, but really belonged in New Orleans where he eventually settled. By profession he was a hospital administrator; by passion he lived for Carnival. He belonged to several Carnival groups, but would be best remembered as a founder of the Rolling Elvi, the group that thunders through parades with each member dressed as The King and riding scooters. 1 1 2 JULY 2019

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(There is no obvious connection between Presley and the scooters. Some things, especially on matters of Carnival, just have to be accepted.) It happened that the gathering was at the corner of North Claiborne and Bienville named after, respectively, the area’s first American governor and the city’s founder. And what a city they created. To a smattering of drum beats the crowd congregated behind a waiting brass band. Only in New Orleans are the departed remembered so sweetly. First, there was the slow dirge as the band moved deliberately and the crowd stepped carefully. All of this was happening on a weekend when New Orleans experienced an uncanny showering of loss among those who carried the culture. Earlier that day, there had been a visitation for restaurateur Leah Chase. On the day before, bluesman Dr. John

climbed the stage into voodoo heaven. Two weeks earlier, writer Ronnie Virgets, who would have been in overdrive writing about all this, signed off. Macon Moore had been more of a behind-the-scene organizer, but it takes rare ability to, in the final act, pack a street with Elvises. The procession moved down along Bienville with the music building to that special moment when the mourning segues into cutting loose and the followers begin to dance. So too, did the neighbors, one of whom, only moments before was sitting on the porch of his shotgun home drinking a beer and was suddenly transported to the sidewalk, jiving to “Little Liza Jane” while waving a beer can as his goblet. As a city with so much culture, we always worry about losing it, especially as every second line steps down the old streets. If there is hope, it was in the faces of the

band from Young Audiences of Louisiana, a charter school group whose students are experiencing all the quirkiness from the street level. No one knew it at the time but just that day there had been yet another loss. Spencer Bohren, who specialized in blues and American roots music, left the spotlight due to cancer. Only three weeks earlier he had been interviewed at Jazz Fest. Like Moore, he too was from elsewhere, Wyoming, but would be captivated by New Orleans. Making several right turns along the route, the procession returned to its starting spot, stepping down Claiborne, back to the distillery whose nectar could help temporarily soothe the sorrow. For all the departed, the eternal question of the second line continues, “didn’t they ramble?” To which the answer is always yes. This moment, though, belonged to Macon Moore.

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ARTHUR NEAD Illustration


Profile for Renaissance Publishing

New Orleans Magazine July 2019