ON THE BORDER
Straddling both sides of the gender aisle, Oxfords prove to be androgynously cool WORDS NATALIE RINN PHOTOGRAPHS MICHAEL TESSIER STYLING M O S E STM
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Hair: Adam Markarian using Oribe Hair Care at Bryan Bantry Hair Assistant: William Schaedler at Bryan Bantry Makeup: Aya Kudo Makeup Assistant: Ayaka Nihei Manicure: Eri Narita Models: Signe Rasmussen at Next, Elena Kantaria at Supreme Shorts by Levi’s Maroon oxfords by The Office of Angela Scott Black oxfords by Adieu Calf cuff set by Bond Hardware Grey Plaid Shirt by Alexander Olch Green Plaid Shirt by Alexander Olch White t-shirt by Sunspel
he rebellious birth of the Oxford shoe—a casual solution to the restrictive ankle or knee boot of the mid-19th century—and its subsequent move to men’s formalwear, writes a sartorial history that reveals its inherent genius: versatility. When, in the twentieth century, the lowankled ties leapt into the standard arsenal of womenswear, that brilliance was codified further. On Fall/Winter runways this year, the Oxford’s dexterity was on full display, slipping effortlessly between masculine and feminine ensembles, references to disparate eras and hybrid forms. Oxfords, though, are only one take on a classic outline: Brogues include toe caps; Derbys are distinguished by a second piece of leather stitched over its base and an open lace closure; Kilties are the rarest of the bunch with, essentially, a miniature kilt that acts as a refined replacement to a big floppy bow. This season, designers paid homage to the entire fleet. At Suno, Nicholas Kirkwood gave the Derby high-impact upgrades. Glossy patent leather bases were garnished with kilties and bands of peppermint green and cobalt blue stripes around the sole. “We wanted to create a shoe that felt grounded, close to the earth, and with a sense of history and seriousness,” said the design team. “We also wanted to turn it on its head, and modernize it through color and patent leather.” Partnered, in one case, with a business formal V-Dress in Tri Petal Jacquard, the effect crossed punk rock and power lunch sensibilities, tantalizingly, in one. Band of Outsiders kept their shoe classic: medium-gloss navy, black and white Derbys were the understated anchor for oversized fur coats, chunky midnight plaids, and lanky black-and-white knits. It was a little Clueless-era 90s, except the footwear added a timeless streak that the grunge movement’s Doc Martens couldn’t have touched. Stella McCartney pushed the template farthest, adding a square toe, printed stars, and height with a second sole. Red, taupe, black and Robin egg blue were used as base colors, rimmed, at times, in gold. But pitted against slip-like cocktail attire with spaghetti string fringe, the shoe was tethered back to the 20th century, and the slinky eveningwear, in turn, was imbued with fresh athleticism. At Modern Vice, designers Jordan and Jensen Adoni turned their two-toned Spectator Oxfords into a statement piece with an especially large kiltie. “The whole men’s tailored thing has evolved and become mainstream, so we took it a step further with a kiltie that is bigger, bolder and chunkier,” said Jordan Adoni. “It’s a shape that can be brought to a wedding or worn with cutoff jeans.” Like any successful innovator, the Oxford’s ability to play with the form depends equally on its allegiance to the rules. As it walked down Fall/Winter runways, its essence—a comfortable leather tie that saved 19th century feet—was preserved, and ensured its status as a reliable staple with a rebellious soul for years to come.
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