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show at Lincoln Center was a bit of a retrospective, a nod to year’s past with early-90s cuts punctuated with modern design. Chic black track pants usually reserved for the starting blocks were refined and cut at the ankle, and crew neck sweatshirts were reinvigorated with sequin engulfed arms. Varsity jackets donned a letterman “D” while multiple models gazed from under the flat bill of a murdered-out Yankees hat. “For me, it’s always about when we started. The first day we shot, we were in Times Square, and the name Donna Karan wasn’t of any importance,” Karen said in a backstage Vogue interview. “It was about New York. It was a celebration of the people and their style, the city lights—those are my inspirations.” The hometown shout out didn’t stop there. Half of Karen’s looks were worn by real New Yorkers. The black ball caps could also be found over at Moschino, with Jeremy Scott’s first foray as the design house’s new Creative Director. Constructed in leather with the label’s demonstrative gold lettered logo bouncing light around the Milan runway, the hats were paired with faded and quilted denim and shiny leather separates. Model Leonie Anderson stepped out in a gold lamé quilted short-sleeved jacket, hood up, under a black puffed vest. Adorned in multiple chunky chains, and a signature Moschino gold clutch around her waist like a title belt, one couldn’t not hear LLCoolJ’s “Mama Said Knock You Out” during her pass.

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Mona Kowalska’s A Détacher ready-to-wear collection was a hybrid of Moschino’s sporty with her own touch of smarts. Collegiate cardigans in classic Ivy League colors were paired with net mesh pleated skirts. Basketball shorts in the same material reminiscent of your favorite middle school Umbros were attached to warm up pants. Her inspiration was around sports injuries—a jock that could no longer get to the gym, and is carrying her style to other areas of campus. “It’s more metaphorical. I think [this collection] speaks to my interest in volume, and my admiration of baseball-type shirts,” said Kowalska from her Mott Street studio. “I do really like oversized garments, I like the way they feel, and I think they are very modern.” “Going the Distance” from Rocky played as a heather shift dress made its way down the runway, sweatshirt arms attached at the hips, and tied around the waist. The look could be en route to the Barclays Center, or the Strand. “I moved to Brooklyn not long ago, and I remember seeing a guy on the subway with big shorts over a pair of leggings, and he just looked so much better than everyone else. I just loved it.” Regardless of which side of the scholastic/sporty spectrum you were previously on as a kid, Fall/Winter 2014 proved to the grownups that both sides could play nice.

Relapse Magazine - Fall 2014  

The Current State of Mind: For this issue, we explore and celebrate the most up-to-date viewpoints in New York City fashion and culture.

Relapse Magazine - Fall 2014  

The Current State of Mind: For this issue, we explore and celebrate the most up-to-date viewpoints in New York City fashion and culture.

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