The sewtionary an a to z guide to 101

Page 406

Double topstitching on Robson Coat

WHEN DO YOU USE IT? Topstitching is a wonderful and easy decoration! Use topstitching to show off seam lines or to draw attention to areas of the garment such as the pocket opening, collar or neckline. Topstitching strengthens seams as well, so it’s a great feature to use on garments that will be heavily worn like jeans. Topstitching also makes your fabric stiffer. This is great if you want to add structure to an area of the garment, such as a collar or waistband. Topstitching around the edge of a waistband will stiffen it considerably; topstitching several rows through the middle will add even more stiffness. Topstitching can also close up open areas of a garment, like waistbands. For fast, visible hemming (page 96) you can topstitch instead of handsewing.

Tips + Notes When topstitching seams, you may prefer to topstitch first and then trim the seam allowances. That way your topstitching is going through all of the layers, and you’re only trimming off the extra. Use a triple stitch as an alternative to thick thread. This is a special setting on some machines that stitches three times over each stitch, so it’s extra thick. To change the width of your topstitching and still use the presser foot edge as a guide, move the needle position. Just make note of where you’ve moved it so you can keep the topstitching consistent. Topstitch coats and outerwear with a slightly longer stitch length for a professional look. I prefer a slightly shorter stitch length for topstitching dress shirts and blouses.


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