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FIBER Summer 2018 Street Talk Streetwear & Style

Sneaker talk what’s trending?

Accessories How important are they?

crepe city manchester 2018

eniontnv interviewing the latest trending streetwear icon

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streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear streetwear


street talk streetwear & style High-fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton and Burberry are working on crossover projects with streetwear designers and dressing celebrities to appeal to the next generation of luxury lovers. Hours before Vetements’ one-day-only Hong Kong pop-up opened last month, hundreds of streetwear fans queued up outside the venue, hoping to score exclusive products, from logo rain macs to magnets and mugs. The brand, which achieved stardom in a brief three years, has kept such events extremely low-key worldwide.


streetwear & style

street talk

The venue for the Hong Kong pop-up, for example, wasn’t revealed until only one day before the event. Such an approach, however, has won Vetements a cult following, especially among the millennial generation. “This trend is [becoming] a cultural phenomenon,” says Kelly Wong, Lane Crawford’s director of fashion. “With the growing importance of social

media. celebrity seeding and more, streetwear has spread like wild fire. Everyone wants a piece of it. It has created a ‘limited only – buy now or it’s gone’ sense of urgency for consumers.” Luxury fashion houses have also been borrowing inspiration from streetwear and urban fashion to come up with collections which emphasise athleisure elements. streetwear

brands the likes of Vetements, Off-White and Supreme have built a strong fan base in recent years. Their huge influence on young consumers has attracted the attention of luxury brands, which have been jumping on the bandwagon to initiate collaborations. Some have even tapped streetwear talent to lead their creative team. high fashion brands have long been refrenc-

ing streetwear and urban clothing, from Vivienne Westwood’s punk-infused looks to John Galliano’s mix of urban elements and couture-esque aesthetics. Social media and contemporary lifestyle have further boosted streetwear’s relevance among today’s youth. burberry’s latest september collection. for examples, saw models donning the labels vintage check baseball c-

ap matched with Perspex car coats or gabardine trench coat with graffiti prints. Valentino tapped the athleisure trend in its Resort 2018 Collection, and launched the VLTN campaign with pop-up stores touring the world. Louis Vuitton’s menswear collaboration with streetwear brands such as Supreme and Fragment Design

jackpot. have not only been the talk of the town, but also hit the sales. “Urban streetwear has influenced high fashion in a big way,” says Anupreet Bhui, WGSN’s senior editor of global street style. “A lot actually started to happen when athleisure made its way into young consumers’ wardrobes. [Young consumers] want 24/7 living solutions for their changing

mobile lifestyles.” For the coming spring/summer 2018 seasons, streetwear-inspired style is one of the biggest themes on the runway, from London to Milan and Paris. “Over the last few seasons, this trend has been dominating the runway shows,” says Elizabeth von der Goltz, Net-a-Porter’s global buying director. “Last season, luxury brands were interpreting this

concept and adding their own signatures.”


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streetwear & style

street talk

To the casual observer, 9am on Friday 24 February was business as usual in London’s Soho. Commuters hurried on their way to work, shutters were raised on shops, rubbish trucks steamed along. But at 26 Brewer Street, a queue of teenagers was snaking around the block. What for? To get their hands on the latest designs by Palace, the streetwear label known for its triangle logo, skate videos and lol-worthy prints. This is the “hypebeast” scene, the nickname given to the consumers hungry for whatever hyped streetwear is released in a given week. Palace (founded in London in 2009) and its Soho neighbour Supreme (founded in New York in 1994), are the two kings of streetwear, and the pavements outside both stores are frequently the site of queues, when a “drop” of new clothes comes in store. Omer, who is 17, queued for six hours today and will spend about £300 even though he doesn’t “really like it that much”; Taran, 16, will spend £200, and has travelled for two hours to get to the store. Everyone is dressed up. Taran is in an immaculate white parka and P for

Palace cap. Will, another queue member, wears Supreme army fatigues. stylist Lotta Volkova, fashion’s current favourite mouthpiece, caused a stir last year when she declared “there are no subcultures any more”. But the hypebeast scene has all the characteristics of one, both in the gathering of young people on street corners and the obsession over the “right” item to be part of the tribe. In his 1979 book, Subculture: The Meaning of Style, Dick Hebdige argues that “humble objects can be magically appropriated; ‘stolen’ by subcultural groups and made to carry ‘secret’ meanings which express, in code, a form of resistance.” Hebdige pointed to punk’s safety pin but the same could be said of streetwear items such as the Supreme Obama hoody or the Palace Elton John T-shirt. Supreme’s New York City store, on Lafayette Street, is hypebeast’s centre. In 2014, when the brand launched a collaboration with Nike, the NYPD shut the launch down due to concerns for public safety. In February this year, the queues moved to the Broadway/Lafayette subway station where Supreme Metro


Cards were for sale. Once again, the police were called. The hypebeast world has its own websites (the appropriately named Hypebeast as well as Highsnobiety) Facebook groups (the Basement with 65,000 members, Sup Talk with 97,000) and its “faces”. Gully Guy, AKA Leo Mandella, is a 14-year-old from Warwickshire who has 197,000 followers on Instagram, and posts pictures of himself in Supreme, Palace and Bape. He claims to have spent more than £9,000 on streetwear, and an average selfie garners more than 20,000 likes. He was spotted in Soho recently followed by a film crew, and models in a video about Supreme’s collaborations with North Face on the Basement this month. Until now streetwear has remained a niche interest. But it is being appropriated by high fashion. Streetwear shapes and staples – sneakers, hoodies, printed T-shirts, tracksuit pants – have been seen at the likes of Givenchy, Vetements and Raf Simons for the past 10 years, but the look truly went mainstream this January when Louis Vuitton collaborated with Supreme. The first model on the catwalk wore a

bright red crossbody bag with the Supreme logo writ large. Others followed wearing a pattern that combined the Louis Vuitton monogram canvas with Supreme’s logo. A 23-year-old streetwear brand created by a skate scenester was on the runway for the most valuable Parisian brand in the world, one that was founded as a luggage label in 1854 and was valued at £22.5bn in 2016. Highsnobiety ran an article capturing what many within the streetwear community were thinking: “It’s official,” the title ran, “streetwear and luxury fashion are the same thing.” The collaboration will no doubt sell out before it even gets to stores in July - not just because they are nice designs but also because of the backstory. Louis Vuitton issued a cease-and-desist order to Supreme in 2000 when the brand put a version of the LV double monogram on its skateboards. The order reportedly asked that all products with the design be burned. Seventeen years on, the brands are colPage 13 laborators. Fiber Summer 2018 Creative Life & Fashion


sneaker talk @conno.rwilko @franklynk_

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air max 98 ‘gundam’ In 1998, Nike was riding high off the massive success of its Air Max 97 and Air Jordan 12 sneakers. The former became an overnight favorite amongst 1.0 sneakerheads; the latter MJ wore in 1997 while winning his fifth NBA title (including that game he played while trying not to ralph all over Scottie Pippen’s jersey). But then came the Air Max 98. In the face of high expectations for the next edition of the shoe, Nike...kind of put up a brick. The 98s weren’t outright hated, but were criticized for looking too similar to the 97, despite their fresh new colorways. As a result, the 98s became one of Nike’s few “forgotten” Air Max sneakers. That all changed when a skate brand from New York took a crack at the silhouette. In 2016, Supreme injected the 98s with rocket-powered hype, doing the shoes up with colors that drew from Prada Sport kicks of old. And now, twenty years after they first hit shelves, Nike is bringing back the Air Max 98s in their original colorway, known among collectors as the “Gundam” for their resemblance to the anime character. And considering the folks buying hyped-up Nikes today

are the ones who were watching Gundam back in the day, the Air Max 98s are poised to become one of the most coveted sneakers of the year. It’s long overdue. Back in ‘98, what made the Air Max 98s technologically advanced was their full-length Air sole, which 20 years later looks like the Step 1 in a progression that ends with the all-air, all-the-time Nike VaporMax. But that’s not has people most excited about their comeback. For one, this is the first time they’ve ever returned to shelves since their OG release. And style-wise, the white, blue, and red colorway couldn’t be a better fit for today’s oversized sneakers and track pants-obsessed culture. Our take: if you’re still rocking with skinny jeans in January 2018, these aren’t the kicks for you. But if you’ve ventured into looser-fitting trousers or retro track pants (barring the ones with three stripes on them), then the Air Max 98s belong on the top of your list. It only took 20 years, but one of Nike’s forgotten shoes is finally getting some attention.


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A vocal Air Max fan, we’ve often seen Skepta wearing Air Max TNs, while the Boy Better Know chieftain also released his own “Blacklisted” take on the Nike Air Max BW in early 2016. Speaking on his love for the Air Max range, Skepta revealed to Nike; “I have been wearing Air Max for so long, since I was seven playing around in the estate; I feel like I know my Air Max well. Air Max is from when we were running the streets, it was comfortable to wear in London, whether you were going out to a club or kicking a ball in the streets. Those kinds of things stick in my mind from the young, magical, fantasy years of my life.”

Now Skepta is up to bat once again, debuting an iridescent version of the sleek Air Max 97 for the silhouette’s 20th anniversary. The colorway derives inspiration from the colors, sounds and stories of Skepta’s home away from London, Morocco. Explaining his choice of design, Skepta notes “When designing the Air Max 97 Sk, we took the color palette of Morocco into consideration, but also the palette of the 1999 Air Tuned Max. That was the first shoe I ever saved up money to buy, so I wanted to bring its magic to the 97 — the magic that made me first love Air Max when I saw it as a child.”

Going into more detail, Skepta breaks down the colorway; “We added the embroidery inspired by Morocco, on the tongue and on the back, and created a print on the insole that is reminiscent of what I saw there, as well. The SK logo is in the shape of a British plug, and it’s mixed with the classic, small TN badges that they put on shoes.”


air max 97 x skepta @vickygrout

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sean wotherspoon air max 97 / 1 For Air Max Day 2018, the most sought after release by a very long shot was Sean Wotherspoon’s Air Max 1/97 — a shoe conceived from Sean’s love of vivid colors and corduroy, designed with the thoughts and opinions of Ben Baller, A$AP Nast, and other creatives that the vintage collector and co-owner of Round Two calls friends. Wotherspoon calls the birthing of the shoe a byproduct him being “borderline too hard to work with.” He stressed the importance of the texture of the corduroy and making sure the colors were perfect. Like any proud parent, he was excited about the life of his creation. What he couldn’t anticipate was how the masses would accept the shoe. “This is nuts to me!” he says. “It’s weird and it’s hard to explain how big it is. It’s one thing to be at home and you see all the people tagging me on Instagram and showing love for the shoe. But to be in the mix of it, of it and see the response in person, it’s all crazy to me.”

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Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1 Sean Wotherspoon 97/ 1


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do accessories help an outfIt look more aestheticaly pleasing? here’s FIber’s opinion and favourite accessories so far of the year 2018


When it comes to accessories, there are those born of necessity and those born of frivolity. Fall 2018’s best extras are a delightful mix of both. In the practical column are the outdoorsy boots and backpacks that can withstand—or at least appear to be able to—the perilous world we now live in, and the enormous bags of all shapes and materials that can carry a person wherever she or he may go. As for fun, there’s a new emphasis on statement shoes, clunky dad sneakers, and ever-impractical gloves that render a touchscreen phone essentially useless. Statement bags have long ruled the sales floors. No longer. The season’s animal-print shoes ensure that everyone will be looking at your feet when you make an entrance. At Tom Ford, leopard-print mules came in exotic colors and with crystal embellishments, while Sacai sent out models in mismatched leopard and zebra boots and pumps. For the more subdued shopper, there are Dries Van Noten’s snakeskin boots with

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Man Bags

Buying bags based on seasonal trends was once an exclusively female pastime. But then again, so was giving a damn about what you wear at all. Designers from the high street to the high-end are continually developing their understanding of what men want from a carrier, and repackaging this knowledge into updated designs every six months. So if you’re toting around a battered old bag that’s seen better days, it’s time to overhaul your receptacles with one of AW17’s key bag trends.


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Let’s be real. If you’re in Europe, you know what Crepe City is. The UK’s leading sneaker festival has grown to its current massive popularity stupid quickly, and for good reason. Thousands of sneakers are offered up for sale at each event, with thousands of people passing through, scoring their grails, and generally having a good time around like-minded people. Saturday saw the event once again take up residence in London’s Truman Brewery for one day only, and again, some outstanding sneakers were up for grabs. People weren’t just leaving with heat though, there were also a lot of fire kicks worn to the event, as attendees brought their A-game to the biggest event on the UK’s sneakerhead calendar. This year’s event saw the introduction of two new areas; the Crepe City Boutique, which played host to women’s sneaker stalls and unisex streetwear, and The Basement, an area curated by the Facebook group, dedicated to young streetwear labels and hard-to-find clothing grails. As always, Complex was there to make sure we caught the highlights of the event, so scroll for the run-through.

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Crepe City is a lifestyle, footwear and fashion festival that showcases leading street wear brands from across Europe and is host to the world’s largest market of exclusive and hard to find sneakers. We were founded in London in 2009 when we became the UK’s first event where sneaker collectors could meet up, socialise and trade in trainers. We exist to celebrate the UK sneaker scene and to support up and coming brands. Prior to founding Crepe City we ran the KicksXchange forum which from its launch in 2006 grew into one of the worlds leading forums for buying and selling sneakers. Since Crepe City began our small team have strived to ensure that the events are well run with the greatest quality and quantity of sneakers. Aside from running events, Crepe City have supported the growth of the UK Sneaker Community through our Facebook and Instagram pages which are the UK’s largest and most active.

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red bull tv


what’s your custom? a one-of-a-kind culture artwork and craftsmenship that puts soul on to soles, sneaker customisation is booming in shoe culture. go inside the lives of three artists who are all hustling asmakers of one-of-a-kind kicks from the United states, england and singapore.


eniotnv major sneaker enthusiast


‘My names Antoine Haspel aka Eniotnv and I’m being interviewed by Fiber magazine’ Page 37 Fiber Summer 2018 Creative Life & Fashion


Antoine shoots all his photos with a DSLR camera. His favourite camera to shoot with is the Nikon D750. He also went into his favourite brands. ‘I love Carharrt, there timeless, well priced, and great quality! For shoes, I love the Nike Air Zoom Streak Spectrum Plus OG Comet FLame. they are my all time favourite if i had to choose just one pair. that’s a really hard decision with all the sneakers i actuall own’ ‘Hmm, how did I get into streetwear and sneakers. I guess it was because I always had an affinity for nice shoes and one day I began to realise there is more than just shoes in general and I started to inform myself about the sneakers and step by step I became extremely addicted with buying matching t shirts, matching pants and even matching hats. I guess it’s a good thing and a bad thing in a way but I love it. I now see myself as a sneaker and clothing addict, haha’

eniotnv


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