Hair actives â€“ overview booklet
All about hair
How is hair structured? How does hair grow? Why does hair need care and protection?
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Active ingredients for hair
Protection and reinforcement with the cationic delivery system Delay of aging and hair loss Full protection of hair and scalp Moisturizing effect Added value
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Active ingredients according to productâ€™s positioning Active ingredients according to consumer benefit
Hair shaft Epidermis
Outer root sheath Inner root sheath
How is hair structured?
Hair actually consists of two distinct structures: • the part beneath the skin, called follicle • the visible hair shaft (above the skin surface). In the lower part of the hair bulb which contains the matrix and the papilla, new cells are continuously produced. As they grow and develop, they steadily push the previously formed cells upwards. When the cells reach the upper part of the bulb they begin to change, and they arrange themselves into several cylindrical layers, one inside the other. • The inner three layers of cells become the actual hair. • The outer three layers become the lining of the hair follicle, the inner root sheath.
05 — All about hair
The outer root sheath is continuous with the epidermis.
Facts and figures
The hair bulb also contains melanocytes which produce the melanin pigments that color the hair as well as stem cells.
100‘000 – 150‘000
Average number of hair per head:
Diameter: 10 – 100 µm Average hair growth per month: 1 cm Number of hair lost per day: 50 – 100 Composition of dry hair: 95 % proteins
Catagen phase Anagen phase: 90 % of hair
10 % of hair Telogen phase
How does hair grow?
Hair growth is a cyclic and asynchronous process. This cycle is made up of 3 phases (anagen, catagen and telogen) which occur simultaneously; each hair passes through the phases independent of the neighboring hairs. • During the anagen (growing) phase which lasts 3 years on average, protein material (keratin) is produced in the hair bulb. • Then the hair moves to the regression (catagen) stage for about 3 weeks. During this transition period, the hair bulb separates from the dermal papilla, and the hair follicle shrinks and migrates towards the scalp surface.
07 — All about hair
• At the end of the telogen (resting) phase which lasts 3 months on average, the hair follicle reenters the anagen phase: the dermal papilla and the base of the follicle join together again and a new hair begins to form. If the old hair has not already been shed, the new hair pushes the old one out and the growth cycle starts all over again. In people with healthy hair, about 90 % of the hair is in the anagen phase and the other 10 % are either in the catagen or telogen ones.
Environmental stress Drastic procedures Blow-drying and oxidative stress Shampoos and styling products Mechanical stress
Why does hair need care and protection?
Hair strands are covered with scales overlapping like roof tiles, oriented from root to tip and forming the hair cuticle. Despite the hydrophobicity of the surface of the cuticle due to its lipid content, the hair absorbs moisture. This contradictory behavior known as the “hair paradox” is due to the fact that the interior of the fiber contains hydrophilic amino acid residues. Hair in good condition can absorb more than 30 % of its own weight of water. air is constantly exposed to stress factors which H can dehydrate and damage it: • Environmental stress factors (UV irradiation, wind, salt water) make hair rough, dry and prone to breakage. • Drastic procedures, such as decoloration and perming, lead to an irreversible loss of the original form and strength of hair.
09 — All about hair
• Blow-drying and oxidative stress lead to the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) which oxidize and degrade the proteins of the hair surface and thus affect the structure of the hair. • Mechanical stress factors damage the cuticle leading to opening and removal of the scales as well as the formation of split ends. • Shampoos and styling products tend to dehydrate and to dry both the scalp and the hair. These factors make the hair more porous and so more sensitive, brittle, feeling rough and looking dull. Thus, hair structure needs to be reinforced, repaired and protected on a daily basis.
Protection and reinforcement with the cationic delivery system
Stearylamine Encapsulated active
The cationic delivery system (CDS) transports lipophilic actives to the hair fiber without leaving an oily, sticky feeling. In the CDS, the actives can be encapsulated into liposomes or nanoemulsions containing stearylamine. Therefore, these vesicles are positively charged and adhere to the negatively charged hair surface even in a rinse-off application.
Advantages Small vesicle size (50 – 200 nm) offering a high bioavailability Additional moisturizing effect based on lecithin forming the vesicles Very high targeted delivery of oiland water-soluble actives to the hair surface based on the cationic structure (100-fold increase compared
to the uncharged vesicle)
Additional benefits Preservative-free
Emulsifier-free Suitable for rinse-off products Ideal for pump spray products
Active ingredients for hair — 10
Active ingredients based on the cationic delivery system Lipobelle S100/PA Nano-Lipobelle UV-A/B Solar radiation damages the skin but also the hair leading to: • bleaching of hair’s natural color, fading of color-treated hair • a rough straw-like texture due to the erosion of the cuticle • a loss of elastic strength and hair luster. Based on UVA and UVB filters encapsulated in the CDS, Nano-Lipobelle UV-A/B: • protects both hair and scalp on a long-term basis • preserves the hair’s quality by its film forming property.
Ideal for colored hair but also natural blond hair prone to photo-yellowing
11 — Active ingredients for hair
D-Panthenol works as a nutrient for the hair. This vitamin B5 precursor which can penetrate into the scalp, the hair cortex and to the hair roots: • moisturizes, repairs and strengthens the hair shaft • reduces the formation of split-ends • improves hair manageability • gives shine. Lipobelle S100/PA, based on D-panthenol encapsulated in the CDS: • strengthens the hair from inside • preserves the beauty of hair.
Ideal for treated hair (colored, decolored, permed, straightened) but also long hair
Hair shaft Epidermis
Hair bulge stem cell
Outer root sheath Inner root sheath
Matrix Dermal papilla Lineages derived from bulge stem cells â€‚ 12
Delay of aging and hair loss PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica The hair follicle contains stem cells located in the hair bulge and in the bulb (lower part of the hair follicle) which assure its renewal and the maintenance of its color (pigmentation). Based on plant stem cells, PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica maintains the vitality of skin stem cells and also delays the senescence of the hair follicle. Thus, it: • maintains the regenerating power of the hair • increases the longevity of the hair follicle • prolongs the anagen phase (hair’s growing phase).
Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA Present in each cell, mitochondria supply energy through respiration to the cells and regulate their metabolism. As both an antioxidant and an electron carrier, co-enzyme Q10 is a key ingredient of mitochondria. The co-enzyme Q10 concentration in the cell declines with age. This leads to a reduced “energy supply” to the cells as well as the formation of ROS and thus to a reduced protection of cells against oxidative stress and free radicals. Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA which contains 7% of co-enzyme Q10 as well as vitamins C and E: • stimulates the proliferation of the dermal papilla cell. • accelerates the growth of hair follicles which are in the early anagen phase and thus, whose energy needs are especially high. Thus, Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA vitalizes the hair from the roots and prevents hair loss.
13 — Active ingredients for hair
Physical stress Combing, brushing, heating, drying, UV irradiation
Chemical stress Perming, relaxing, coloring
Water droplet O2
O2* Damage of hair protein
Full protection of hair and scalp GSP-T Hair is constantly exposed to different physical and chemical stress factors which damage it. Besides, hair is specially sensitive to oxidation when it is wet. Hair therefore needs protection on a daily basis to remain healthy and brilliant. GSP-T is a powerful patented antioxidant complex for hair protection. It combines water-soluble Swiss grape seed procyanidins and oil-soluble natural tocopherol.
Ideal to protect hair and scalp during blowdrying, outdoor activities and hair treatments
15 — Active ingredients for hair
• GSP-T offers a broad protection to all hair types and styles: it protects hair against both physical and chemical stress factors. • It prevents color fading of dyed hair. • Besides, it soothes the scalp.
Additional benefits Protecting effect in both leave-on and rinse-off products Tested at different use levels: 1 % – 1.5 % and 2.5 % Preservative-free
Moisturizing effect AquaCacteen Treatments such as decoloring, coloring, perming and straightening dehydrate the hair. Besides, these types of treatments usually contain irritant compounds and /or destabilize the natural cutaneous pH leading to redness and irritation. Thus, the hydration of both hair and scalp needs to be preserved and maintained.
Thanks to its high content of water-binding compounds, AquaCacteen, a cactus extract, hydrates the skin even when used at low levels in rinse-off applications. Besides, AquaCacteen can block the release of stress mediators from nerve cells which cause inflammation and pain. Thanks to piscidic acid, an excellent inhibitor of ROS, AquaCacteen protects the skin against UV-induced damage.
Poly-Fructol is a polymer of fructose naturally present in fruits and vegetables. Encapsulated in liposomes, it brings immediate hydration.
After 1 week of daily use in a rinsed product: + 12.9 % of hydration*
*** material certified by Ecocert Greenlife according
30 minutes after a single use of a rinsed product: + 9 % of hydration**
* with 2 % AquaCacteen, compared to the placebo ** with 5 % Poly-Fructol, compared to the placebo to the Ecocert Standard for Natural and Organic Cosmetics available at www.ecocert.com/cosmetics
Moisturizing effect in rinse-off
Moisturizing effect in rinse-off
products tested at 0.1 % – 0.5 %
products tested at 0.1 % and 5 %
and 2 % Available in a preservative-free and ECOCERT certified version***
Active ingredients for hair — 16
Added value Lipobelle Glacier Detoxophane Lipobelle Glacier with Swiss glacier water, protects keratinocytes against heat stress, preventing damage to the scalp induced by heat during blowdrying.
17 — Active ingredients for hair
Based on Swiss cress sprouts, Detoxophane stimulates the cellular detoxification system and neutralizes oxidants and free radicals. It can thus protect the scalp from environmental stress.
NanoCacao O is a lipophilic fraction of cocoa beans. Cocoa beans contain several “feelgood“ chemicals including anandamide. Also naturally produced in our brain, this neurotransmitter induces euphoria and reduces pain sensation. NanoCacao O can thus improve the sense of well-being as well as reduce unpleasant sensations.
Based on Royal Jelly encapsu lated in liposomes, Lipobelle Royal has revitalizing and energizing properties.
Active ingredients according to product’s positioning Marketing Value
Lipobelle S100/PA Scalp / hair follicle Biological activity
Hair fibre Physical/chemical activity AquaCacteen
Detoxophane Nano-Lipobelle UV-A/B
Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA PhytoCellTecTM Malus Domestica
GSP-T Science 18
Active ingredients according to consumer benefit
Hair Protection against environmental stress (UV, pollution) Protection against daily stress from washing and styling Heat protection Prevention of color fading Moisture balance Repair, revitalization Prevention of hair loss Scalp Protection, antioxidant Hydration Anti-irritation Hair follicle Anti-aging 19 — In brief
PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica
Nano-Lipobelle DN CoQ10 oA
Name Nano-Lipobelle UV-A/B
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, Bolimattstrasse 1, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland Phone +41 62 836 17 31, email@example.com, www.mibellebiochemistry.com
For more information Ask for the detailed brochures Pros_GSP-T-Hair_u_Pros_GSP-T-Hair 02.09.11 16:50 Seite 1
GSP-T For Hair Powerful protection for all hair types and styles
Pros_AquaCacteen_u_AquaCacteen_Pros_u 25.05.11 08:58 Seite 1
AquaCacteen Soothes and hydrates women’s and men’s skin
Pros_LipobelleGlacier_u_LipobelleGlacier 11.10.10 16:57 Seite 1
Pros_PCTec-Malus_u_PCTec_Pros_u 02.09.11 16:47 Seite 1
PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica Plant stem cells for skin stem cell protection
NanoCacao Deep comfort and relaxation
Lipobelle Glacier 24h refreshing hydration with Swiss glacier water
Detoxophane Activating the skin’s detoxification system
GSP-T For Hair
The information contained in this publication is provided in good faith and is based on our current knowledge. No legally binding promise or warranty regarding the suitability of our products for any specific use is made. Claim ideas are offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification. Mibelle Biochemistry will not assume any expressed or implied liability in connection with any use of this information.