The]? International Edition
Vol. I No. 2
Ch:rc>~icle August 30,1988 SURAT
and Tech. The cars were modest. I found them very narrow and low. But it seemed to accommodate the Thai frame quite well. The berth had two seats that were two feet wide, plenty of room for my keyster. These seats became the bottom bunk while the top bunk was a drop down shelf overhead. At first I was afraid I might not be able to stretch out fully but I had room for_my knaps~ck at one end wlthout belng cramped.
Bound for Surat: Patama, Panchit (photo by Paew)
Udomsin, Ray, Piew
The weekend of August 12th was a long weekend as Thai's across the country celebrated Her Majesty The Queen's Birthday. I took the opportunity to travel to the South for a little tourism.
I was on my own with five Thai women. The group consisted of Udomsin, Patama (also of the FSU), Panchit,Piew and Paew, all friends of Udomsin. I. became the adopted son of the group.
The trip was the We left Thursday at 6:00 the central train suggestion of Khun Udomsin from (manager of the FSU). The station. We took a second trip was sponsored by the _class sleeper bound for Thani. The trip Siam Society. This Surat organization consists of would last about twelve Thais and foreigners hours and make ten stops interested in the history along the way. and culture of Thailand: They sponsor seminar si Taking the train was a novelty for me. The only trips and other socia events to educate both trains I have been on are visitors and Thai's alike. the displays at Science The Krung Thep Chronicle Inside Announcements Classified Development Features General News Insi~ht \~eater
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The Krung Thep Chronicle is a publication of Ray Teske, ~urely for the entertalnment of his family and friends. It is distributed worldwide via assorted methods.Any correspondence should be addressed to: Ray Teske 7B Esmeralda Apartment 64/66 Soi Ngam Duplee RAMA IV Road Ban~kok, 10120 Thalland
The cars weren't airconditioned but the open windows and overhead fans cooled it down I had to use a blanket to keep comfortable. During the train ride people would walk up and down carrying drinks and snacks that they sold for 5 to 20 baht. We made out beds around 20:30 and sacked out soon after that. I slept most comfortably but was woken every cou~le of hours as the traln came to a screeching halt to let a north-bound train pass. Our arrival time in Surat Thani Station was a little after 06:30. Bleary eyed travellers boarded a bus for the city.Our guide told us that there was no guarantee (cont. p. 2 SURAT)
Anyone that knew me as a child or a teenager knows of my throat trouble. I always had a throat infection. Well I had another bout with my childhood nemesis. After my trip I developed a high fever and sore throat. I took the following day off thinking I was just overtired. That evening I hadn't improved so I went to see a doctor. Dr. Phillippe is a French expatriot that has been practicing in Thailand for over 30 years. He looked me over, swabbed my throat with what looked like molasses, gave me an injection and said to stay home for a few days. I had to visit him twice more to complete the treatment.
His office was quaint. Lace-trimmed sheets covered his examination table. A fine example of country medicine. His Thai nurses spoke very good English and fussed over me saying I was a good boy for not screaming when they gave me an injection. I have since fully recovered and feel great Due to a problem with timing and the local post office the last edition was delivered late. Every effort is being made to ensure our readership with current neWb ~c soon as humanly possible.
SURAT (from p. 1) that the rooms might be ready this early in the morning but we could use the lavatories and have warm breakfast. Our luck held and our rooms were ready. After a quick shower and change we had a great buffet breakfast.
The Krung Thep Chronicle August 30, 1988 facilities. The beach was gorgeous!!! The water was warmer and saltier than I am used to. This made swimming easy. We swam out a ways and encountered cold spots. Everybody took to the water and "had a grand old time.
Supper that evening was buttet style with sea food and plenty of curry. I managed the entire night without as much as a single mosquito bite. I did have a rather large spider drop onto the netting, though.
A couple of hours and we The group assembled in the packed it in. Back on the bus at 08:30 to start the boat most people took the hour drive to Dok Soi. time to catch a little This was the sea port in shut-eye. I spent the time rambutan and the Gulf of Siam. We eating with fellow boarded a boat and took to talkin~ travellers. the open sea.
The next morning we left for a giant reservoir. The dam personnel had great facIlities. Golf course restaurants, bars,ail the amenities.
This part of the gulf is dotted with numerous islands. The islands are mostly limestone and volcanic rock and are covered in a thick cover of vegetation. They are almost totally" uninhabited. Some fisherman have huts to seek refuge from storms and the hot sun. The entire area is a national marine park. The beaches are serviced by long tail boats that make negotiating the coral reefs much easier.
Back on the bus we left for the hotel. We were on our own for supper and chose to eat at the restaurant in the hotel. Wbehad fresh oysters, sea ass ana papaya salad. The next morning we left for anothe~ park. We drove among Jade cloaked mountains with rainbow coloured cliffs sparkling like rhinestones and wisps of clouds mantling the peaks. We arrived at the park and were billeted to huts. I didn't mind. I had a mattress, blanket and a mosquito net. Roughing it in the jungle!
The reservoir itself was gigantic. We took a cruise for about three ho~rs and only saw a third ot the system. For the first time I saw a storm coming in across the water' It was a neat eftect COUld see a sheet of water come down across the hill and hit the lake. It almost made it as far as the boat but stopped a few meters away. We hopped the bus back to the station late Sunday afternoon. The trip back was relaxing and new friends made plans for the next outing.
Our first stop was on an MISS UNIVERSE ARRIVES island that was mostlv mountain. The beach was Porntip Narkhirunkanok beautiful but there was been crowned Miss settling in we has too much coral for my After liking. I opted to hike changed into shorts and Universe. This has been a the mountain to see what I went wading in the stream source of great national for Thailand. It is could see. Concrete steps that ran nearby. We had a pride in the form of logs, lot of laughs before we their second beauty to wooden ~latforms and iron dried off and settled into win the honours. Everyone has been consumed with hand-rails made the overly lunch. "Pui fever. She has made steep climb bearable. The trip up took about ten After lu~ch we dressed for front page news almost a hike. Wandering along I every day. Parliament has minutes. was amazed at the size of mentioned her and she was At the top I could see why the trees and grasses. The granted and audience with someone took the trouble jungles was both fascinat- Her Majesty the Queen. to build the path. The ing and intimidating. It Her concern for orphans island has a large sea started to rain but that and children has won her of merit. This water lake in the center. just added to the mood. a lot There was a large platform After tramping awhile we young lady is truly a suitable for sun bathing came to some small rapids. beauty queen. and taking in the The speed of the water outstanding view. The shocked me. The main falls water was full of coral, were an hour up ahead. The sea urchins and a variety group decided that they had enough and we started of fish. back. I decided to take a climb u~ another path to the Once we returned we took highest point of the off our shoes to find we island. I relaxed for a were carrying passengers. Leeches. Not the grotesque bit and took in the view. variety from the African Next we took to the sea in Queen but little inch-worm search of a beach suitable like leeches. Mai pen rai, for swimming. We found one a little heat or salt ana on a larger island that presto no more leeches. was headquarters for the The bleeding took a little park rangers. longer than normal to stop but we were assured that The island had plenty of we were in no danger. lt
The Krung Thep Chronic 1e
INSIGHT Well as most of you have guessed my stuff did arrive. My meager collection of effects landed in Don Muang July 8, or so my bill claims. Getting my stuff however turned out to be a little more time consuming.
11, and then Hell you get the idea. Surprisingly it only took eight calendar days before I was handed a receipt for 200 baht and told that we have changed the consignee. Well the champagne started to pour. I figured that DTEC had the week to start the clearance and I just had to give them the bill of lading and then we would be laughing. Wrong. The process isn't concurrent. As far as DTEC was concerned my shipment didn't arrive till the consignee Has corrected.
On July 10, I received notice that my stuff had arrived at the airport two days earlier. This came as a surprlse as I hadn't told anyone where to send my Ok, another week, mai ~en rai. Wrong. shipment. I guess like many things it It seems that my timlng was at its had a mind of its own. Nevertheless the usual and I picked the beginning of prospect of being able to listen to my Buddhist Lent to try to speed things music on my stereo whilst ban~ing away throu~h. Add to that the celebrations on my keyboard was almost titlllating. for H1S Majesty The King becoming the Eagerly I asked what I had to do to longest reigning monarch. Enough said? secure my goodies and have them brought to my domicile. I was met w i t h many Well, I got the good word August first. We left for the airport and arrived shoulder shrugs. just after noon. The entire operation We cooperants are a rare breed it seems had shut down for lunch. that no one really knows what to do with us. It look like I might have to rely on After the wait we went to information have my crate to see what He had to do. Step one go my own faculties to Thai Airways to the cargo desk and pay for storage 11berated from the and airport fees. Easy. Then take the warehouse. receipt and get it stamped by an Fortunately I did not have to rely on official. He then told us to take it to myself, the ever-helpful staff at the the next station. This goes on for a Pilot Pen Office suggested that I couple of hours till you feel that you contact a shipping agent, hand over my have seen every officer at least four . documents and within a few days I would times. once again have my clone in my grubby little hands. After they had made a feH Finally you have all the stamps and Next stop the freight phone calls it turned out that I was signatures. best to contact my Thai government kiosk. You are given a number and you counterpart. It seems that there is a wait until it appears on a main board. clearance process that all shipments We Haited until 15:30 that day and were belonging to foreign experts must go told that the office closes at 16:00 through to avoid paying very high and we would have to pay overtime charges or come back tomorrow. customs duties. No problem I thought? a week or so and it would be happy tlmes for sure. Well the best laid plans of mice and unsuspecting youths often get blown up by a small but significant oversight. This kid was no exception. My shipment, it was discovered was addressed to: Ray Teske clo Canadian Embassy, Bangkok~ Thailand. Sounded right to me but hey what do I know. The proper procedure was to have my shipment clo DTEC (the Department of Technical and Economic Cooperation). This agency is the coordinator of all foreign experts on assignment to the Royal Thai Government. My counterpart Khun Wanida, Has overly sympathetic when she broke the news to me. I asked if this meant that I couldn't get my stuff, she said it would just take a little longer. A week extra. No ~roblem, I am a bachelor, I can survive wlthout a few niceties for a couple of weeks. The next step was to have the consignee changed from moi clo the Embassy to clo DTEC. Piece of cake, a little action from someone's terminal, a press of the old transmit key and we have lift off. Wrong. The name had to be changed at the warehouse and then at the Customs House
We opted for the return trip. After a three hour wait we uncrated my stuff and loaded them into a van and presto instant home. Just send stuff, wait 24 days and you have a semblance of home. You gotta love it.
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HEAD OF AID ARRIVES Mr. Eric Yendall was the guest of honour at a reception welcoming he and his wife, Sue. Bangkok. Mr. Yendall replaces Rob Wiles as Head of the Development Assistance Section in the Canadian Embassy. The evening was held at the Hilton International Hotel. The Svita Foundation sponsored the event and put a splendid array of food. Mr. Yendall gave a small speech proclaiming his fondness for Bangkok even though he had only been here a few weeks. Computer Skills Sought Most everyone has a microcomputer of some sort these days.As with the increasing popularity in everyday office use the home user is relying more and more on his personal computer. In Bangkok, Canadians working here are no exception. Most everyone I have met so far either has one or is looking to buy in the very near future. The common problem facing these folks is that they can not seem to find "reliable" help.
The Krung Thep Chronicle August 30, 1988 KING REIGNS LONGEST Rainy season has hit Bangkok. Usually the showers are brief, but are getting longer and harder. I hadn't been caught in the rain til last night. I was at a reception and when I hit the streets it had begun to pour. The HzO was coming down like Niagara. Everyone was scrambling for a taxi or seeking shelter in the entrance. I was lucky and missed most of the big storms either by being out of the part' of the city or at work indoors.The majority of the storms came during the night. Before a storm the air goes still and all is fairly quiet. Then the wind picks up and rain starts to fall. As the volume increases,claps of thunder echo across the roof tops. This will go on for a few hours. The rain has a strange effect on traffic. For the most part it jUSL stops. But if it pours at night and stops by morning, the roads are great. Very few slow parts. But when it is still raining you can add an hour to your travel time.
On July 2nd, Thais celebrated the auspicious occasion of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej becoming the longest reigning monarch in Thai history. His rei~n surpassed that of H1s grandfather King Chulalongkorn. The celebrations were abundant in Krung Thep. Sanam Luang, a large marching field near the Grand Palace, was the central location for the events in the capital. Displ~ys of His Majesty's work 1n all areas were on view. The King is an accomplished writer, yachtsman, photographer and musician. His great effort on development was also highlighted at the display. Rock bands, a variety style stage show and traditional Thai folk theatre provided entertainment during the evening. As always there was an abundance of food with the usual sidewalk vendors out in force. Nearby at the wharf of the Royal Barges there was a demonstration of the barges. They were complete with fully costumed paddlers, advisors and Brahman monks.
The biggest ~roblem about local expert1se seems to The cadence was carried The nice thing about be language. Many of the out in song. The coxswain rain is that it drops computer help here can sang out the beat and the the temperature down a s~eak English but it is oarsman responded in few notches.We are now f1lled with jargon. They fashion. The motion of averaging around 26oC. can handle a fairly rowing was guite Almost perfect. Now if technical conversation but animated. At first glance it coula only manage a have a hard time with it appeared awkward and blizzard two. "novice" users who uncomfortable, but as frantically try to explain always the Thais have their dilemma. More often can't get flight thrown practicality into than not both parties end they that appears up a little bit frustrated simulator to work on their something ornate. This and the problem has not monochrome adapter. So the very keeps the simple things seem to movement been resolved. cause the biggest problem. paddlers from cramping up their backs Enter the Canadian There have been some big and computer consultant. News problems, but I don't have stretched. travels fast through this the time to work on them. Sitting along the river community. I had no sooner of this contact eating bar-b-que chicken settled lnto my work and Most home when I started occurs as I walk through (Thai style of course) receiving phone calls from the Embassy, at cocktail with sweet pork dumplings ~eople who got my name parties or the occasional and watching the show was trom so and so. Or they phone call at home or the a relaxing~ entertaining Everyone has way to spena the evening. heard so and so say that I office. understood that my work knew about computers. takes a priority. That Once again the Thais had drop by after paid great tribute to a Most of them have very means I 1S dear to simple problems. Their work. Which means I get a King that hard disk has lost the lot of free suppers and their hearts. Sanuk-dii! boot sector, they can't the odd Canadian beer. The joys of knowledge. find their recipe file or
Thep Chronicle August·30, 1988 THAI RCP MAKES PROGRESS
The Royar Comrnurtications Not only • is Thai food Project (RCP) has tasty and Interesting but accomplished another fruit here is as varied as delicious. Aside important milestone. The it is traditional sup~lier for computer from such as equ1pment; software and favourites and training has been bananas, . pineapple selected. Olympia-Thai, papaya there is ~ wide of succulent the Compaq vendor for selection Thailand, won the bid with species that are readily and ina combination of lowest available price and outstanding expensive. performance. The most. controversial The contract will be fruit 1sdurrian.It is signed in the first weeks distinguished by a of September with delivery powerful and perha~s of the first computers obnoxious smell. It 1S around the middle of the available from April to month. June. The shell is hard with sharp thorns. It is The project team consists green/ yel16w-brown on the of three Thais and two outside with a.sweet light Canadians. Khun Wanida yellow meat inside. This Pichala, Khun Suwanna reporter has yet to try Phasiri, and Khun Sanut the smelly fruit but hopes Patmayadhin have worked at that next season he w111 NESDB with.Royal Projects get his nerve up. for several years. The team is getting along well Rambutan is like lichee. together and it looks like It is an oval-shaped redit will be a great year. and-green-coloured fruit with bristles on the skin. The team plans to travel It can be easily broken up-country starting in and peeled away. Inside is early October. Hopefully, a very juicy and sweet they will wrap up in mid- white meat. One can put on November. a few pounds eating this one. SUPREME PATRIARCH DIES On August 27th Thailand lost its 18t& Supreme Patriarch. The 90 year old Buddhist monk was the head of the order in Thailand. His Holiness was extremely concerned with children and promoted their education. His latest project involved building a school in the temple where he was abbot. Cremation ceremonies will take place 100 days after his death in accordance with tradition. The Royal Household . will be responsible for all the arrangements. Thais are wearing black and white as a sigh·of respect for His Holiness. His Majesty officially decfeed a 15 day mourning per10d. CORRECTION Once again typos have caused grief.I gave my home phone number as 231-1871 when I should have keyed 213-1871. Apologies for the mess
My persona l f avouri te is pomelo. Some have called 1t Thai &rape-fruit. Most Thais Just ask' what grapes have to do with· oranges. The Thai word for orange is -wm. Pomelo is -wrrro. Som-o is much sweeter and drier than grapefruit. It is much eaS1er to eat but peeling away the thick skin can work up an appetite. Another popular fruit is longan. The best variety come from the north. It is a small round fruit with a thin but tough skin. Inside the meat resembles the lichee. Mangoes (don't get outta the boat, man) are really great here. They are eaten both green and ripe. Green mangoes are usually cut into thin slices to\ make a salad. Ripe mangoes are often served with sticky rice in a pop~lar desserthhao neo mutuanq, \
The frui t· here is fantastic and always available fresh. Just perfect for me.
INTERNATIONAL As mentioned in earlier articles Thailand has great international cuisine. Lately I have been introduced to some Breat restaurants.
r have found a great place for Chicago style long ribs complete with a fiery hot sauce. The place is called the Red Door and 80 baht will get you a great feast for lunch.
FOOD Another favourite with some friends is Korean. They make a wicked kimchee here. This is basically a fermented vegetable dish. Recently I had my first introduction to full fledged Korean dining. The appetizers were th1n slices of egg, ham, chicken, crab, carrot, and other delectables to be wrapped in 2" round rice pancakes. There is a very sweet sauce that goes along with it. The rest of the fair I have had before but never this much for so little.
Sushi bars abound. The Thais consider it very fashionable to eat raw fish. There are plenty more varieties here than I have seen in Ottawa. Mavbe I will get a little darIng r wonder what next? Greek and try some. or Indonesian?
In other words,'Sorry I getting fairlr routine. don't know how to talk The only prob em is that Thai.' I have mana~ed to they think I can speak pick up a fair b1t. My fluent Thai and start to maid and I can decide what ramble on about this and and when I want to eat. that. All I can say is She gives me messages, 'Mai Saab, Krap.' ~that I think I get. But no small talk ye t. I start Thai lessons in early September. A little Getting around in cabs is late but still helpful.
The Krung Thep Chronicle
August 30, 1988
ANNOUNCEMENTS Correction The publisher wishes to say he is sorry to Scott and Jen and Gerry and Cin.I blew their anniversaries. Must be all the rice collecting in the brain. CONGRATULATIONS Dalton Cote Hear you have been successful with your .first leg ~n becomlng an alr force pilot. Cong ra t s. Hope Dawna is happy you get to visit weekends. Nudge Nudge Wink Wink.
BIRTHDAYS I know that there are some birthdays in September. But I don't have a list of whose is when. Sorry I am a schmuck. But Happy B-day to all those born in September. NEWS! NEWS! NEWS! Anyone wanting to say anything gossipy can feel free to drop me a line. So far the rumors have been thin. Except for SB breaking hearts and some guy living it up in LA for his anniversary. What's happening?PER
Scott Graham Recently joined Oracle Corp. Congratulations. Hope you enjoy the training in California and all goes well.
A L S
LOGAN: FOLKS HERE THINK YOU ARE ME. IF U CALL LET THEM KNOW U R CANUCK. POOR FOLKS GET CONFUSED.
FSC: THANKS TO ALL FOR CARD AND Gerbil New job too. Why THOUGHT. THINGS ARE did you move to GOING WELL AS YOU Orleans and then CAN SEE. GETTING IN get a job that ON SOME INTERESTING makes you work in STUFF. HOPE TO BE Hull. Its a good BACK NEXT SUMMER. thing Cin has the PICTURES OF brains in the KET: family. WHAT? I CAN'T READ YOUR HAND WRITING AT THE END. PLS Cin and Gerry New home. Sounds SEND ME DETAILS. great so when are BAG SHOULD you flying me over AMT: IN LATE for supper. Hope ARRIVE all is shaping up SEPTEMBER. HOPE YOU and you have LIKE IT. managed a party or two. KAT: HOPE YOU LIKED YOUR PRESENT. IF Andrea Teske YOU LIKE STYLE I Another menace on CAN SEND MORE FOR the streets. XMAS. Congrats on getting your license. You G&C: THANKS FOR THE managed it about CALLS. IT ViAS GREAT six years younger TO HEAR SOME GOSSIP than I did. Good AND BOTH OF YOUR show. (Also hear VOICES. YOU have lost the braces,great stuff) ALL: HOPE YOU LIKE THE 1ST EDITION. IF Sue Beeb YOU HAVE ANY Off to London. COMMENTS PLEASE Right on! Is this a SEND TO ME AND I trend or just the WILL RESPOND. two of us silly LETTERS TO EDITOR loons flying the PERHAPS???? coop. All the best. Send post cards. DAD:PRESENT WOULD NOT AGREE TO FLY AIR CARGO. SORRY!!!
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KID HITS 24
anyone is After years of work If to hop I have finally planning reached 24. Egads! out here I have tips. First Am I really two two out what cycles old. I am find not sure about the fares are like at travel. significance of the Manotick 12 year cycle of Mention that I am with life but so far working this year has Gordon Breedyk. plan to started out on the Second right foot. I only come after October of rainy hope I can party up (end the next birthday season) and before with all of you in February (start of HOT season). Ciao! Ottawa.
Welll the second editlon is out. This one will almost aet out on time. The writing and formatting is done, now its Xerox time. I can put 30 copies out for about 300 baht. Fairly inexpensive. The guys at the post office had a hard time figure out what to classify this as. Viho sends personal stuff from a photocopier? Anyway the have been out and now can get it regularly.
details worked maybe I rolling
WORD that 'They are not in.' If you say your name very slowly and she might be able to clue me in. Otherwise write. It is taking about ten days to get to me, that's not so bad. Life in general 1S good. I am bit of a novelty here. I am very young I guess. They also like the fact that I have a computer background. Not the usual skIll set in this line of work. I have continually
My days are pretty j f I van t t c; s l av full and I am longer. I would travelling all over like to but first the city. I am hard I want to spend to reach by phone next fall in during my day. Your Canada. Aside from best bet is"to try the weddings and at night (m~ catching up on the night). After 6:3u trends I could use is when I eat so I three or four am usually here. months in a snowy Saturday and Sunday climate. early "morning is usually safe. If a Well that's all young "lady answers she wrote, kids. she will only tell LATER! !! !