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Zines // to MAGAZINES pt.2

Matt // Gill 30.11.18

Spice up your life

Zines // to Magazines CONTENTS 0 i-Dentity / intro 1 1980’s / Style Decade

2 1990-2000 / Game-changers 3 2000’s / Noughtie Decade 4 2010 / The Future 5 i-Nfluence / Brandzines


Summary / Key Points

i-Dentity // INTRO


i-Dentity // SUBCULTURE THE BRIEF: Subculture: a cultural group within a larger culture, often having beliefs or interests different to those of the wider culture. Counterculture: a way of life and set of attitudes opposed to the prevailing social norm. Style-tribe: a group of people that dress in a distinctive way to show their sense of belonging to a group. Zine: an informal term for a magazine, especially a fanzine. Fanzine: a magazine, produced independently and often in an inexpensive or lo-fi way, for the fans of a specific, specialised cultural interest.

1980’s // STYLE DECADE


i-D // NO.1 1980 gave birth to i-D a British magazine dedicated to fashion, music, art and youth culture. Founded by designer and former Vogue art director Terry Jones. The first issue was published in the form of a hand-stapled fanzine with text produced on a typewriter.

i-D covers

The Face // STYLE ICON The Face was a British music, fashion and culture monthly magazine started in May 1980 by Nick Logan. Striking visual identity – embodied by Neville Brody’s era-defining graphic designs, Nick Knight’s dramatic fashion photography and the ‘Buffalo’ styling of Ray Petri. An early showcase for the works of Robert Mapplethorpe, Bruce Weber and Cindy Sherman. Championing of cutting-edge fashion photography by the likes of David Sims and Corinne Day, with Kate Moss

The Face

Paul Gorman

Rough Trade

Buffalo // RAY PETRI The legendary Ray Petri and his gang Buffalo, started a revolution in the 1980s in the world of fashion and style. Starting from the street and bringing together all their different influences, backgrounds and individual talents, mixing them with music and photography, Buffalo was soon in demand by high fashion establishments around the world.


1990 – 2000 // GAME-CHANGERS


Game-changers // ADBUSTERS A global network of artists, writers, musicians, designers, poets, philosophers and punks trying to pull off a radical transformation of the current world order. The Adbusters Media Foundation is a Canadian-based not-for-profit, proenvironment organization founded in 1989 by Kalle Lasn and Bill Schmalz in Vancouver, British Columbia. Adbusters describes itself as "a global network of artists, activists, writers, pranksters, students, educators and entrepreneurs who want to advance the new social activist movement of the information age. Adbusters

Adbusters youtube

Game-changers // DAZED In 1991, Jefferson Hack and Rankin launched Dazed & Confused as an alternative style and culture magazine. The title became a lightning rod for cultural provocation and the magazine became a movement, growing into the agenda-setting publishing powerhouse Dazed Media. Dazed claims to be the most influential independent fashion and culture title in the world.


Dazed women

Game-changers // COLORS Colors magazine was set up in 1991 by Oliviero Toscani and Tibor Kalman and funded by high-street fashion store Benetton, it has been viewed with polite amusement or outraged horror by the British media - much as Toscani's posters have long been gladly received by features desks looking for a polemic against the decay of today's media.


Colors guardian

Game-changers // RAYGUN Ray Gun was an American alternative rock and roll magazine, first published in 1992 in Santa Monica, California. Led by founding art director David Carson. Ray Gun explored experimental magazine typographic design and unique angles on the pop cultural currents of the 90s. The editorial content was framed in a chaotic, abstract style, not always readable (it once published an interview with Bryan Ferry entirely in the symbol font Zapf Dingbats), but always distinctive in appearance. Ray Gun set out to break as many of the established rules as possible, it even altered its masthead from issue to issue. Raygun design

David Carson

Game-changers // WALLPAPER* Wallpaper* is the world's number one global design destination, championing the best in architecture, interiors, fashion, art and contemporary lifestyle. The magazine was launched in London in 1996 by Canadian journalist Tyler Brûlé and Austrian journalist Alexander Geringer. Brûlé sold the magazine to Time Warner in 1997.


Game-changers // MONOCLE In 2007, Monocle was launched as a magazine briefing on global affairs, business, culture, design and much more. They believed that there was a globally minded audience of readers who were hungry for opportunities and experiences beyond their national borders. Today Monocle is published 10 times a year out of their London HQ at Midori House through their agency Winkreative, and has seen its sales grow every year: they now sell more than 81,000 copies per issue, with 18,000 subscribers. Monocle, as well as a global affairs and lifestyle magazine, is a 24-hour radio station, website, retailer and media brand, all produced by Winkontent Ltd. It was founded by Tyler BrĂťlĂŠ. Monocle

Game-changers // WIRED Wired is a monthly American magazine, published in print and online editions, that focuses on how emerging technologies affect culture, the economy, and politics. It is THE magazine about what's next – bringing you the people, the trends and the big ideas that will change our lives. The UK edition launched in 2009 to bring you the stories, people and ideas that are changing our day-to-day world. Their teams of editors in London and around the globe aim to bring the most important, interesting and inspiring news and features, 24/7. Wired iPad


Game-changers // VICE Vice is a print magazine and website focused on arts, culture, and news topics. Founded in 1994 in Montreal, Quebec, Canada, the magazine later expanded into Vice Media, which consists of divisions including the magazine and website, a film production company, a record label, and a publishing imprint. Vice acquired the fashion magazine i-D in 2012 and by 2013 Vice produced 24 global editions of the magazine, with a global circulation of 1,147,000. Vice consists of 800 worldwide employees, including 100 in London, and around 3,500 freelancers.


Vice video



2000’s // THE BIG BANG THEORY The new millennium started off with a bang - 9/11 changed everything. In this decade due to various key factors (9/11, Iraq conflict, Digital revolution, Economic crash etc. ) the Consumer mindset changed for ever. Consumers now wanted to be part of the conversation with brands and no longer be spoken down to. Key trend drivers: • Digital Revolution • Nostalgia • Authenticity


2006 // GOOGLE In October 2006 tech giant, Google, bought video streaming site, YouTube for $1.65 billion. The price tag would've seemed massive at the time - especially as YouTube only started up in 2005. YouTube continued to grow year after year. At that time it was Google's second largest buy. YouTube now has 1 billion unique users using the service every month. Starting from 2010 Alexa (a commercial web traffic data and analytics service) ranked YouTube as the third most visited website on the Internet after Google and Facebook - this still continues today. August 2016

2007 // iPHONE On January 9 2007 Apple CEO Steve Jobs launched the iPhone. On November 19 Amazon released the Kindle, its first e-reader, for US$399. It sold out in five and a half hours.

2008 // HOPE & DESPAIR On January 21 2008 Black Monday struck the worldwide stock markets. FTSE 100 had its biggest ever one-day points fall. European stocks closed with their worst result since 9/11, and Asian stocks dropped by 15%. On October 24 Bloody Friday saw many of the world’s stock exchanges experience the worst declines in history, with drops of around 10% in most indices. On November 4 Barack Obama became the first African-American to be elected to be President of the United States. Shepard Fairey

2009 // POPULATION The economic crisis was considered to be the driving force behind the largest migration of people to London in 20 years. It is reported now that the UK population explosion has grown due the growing worldwide immigration problems. This sowed the seeds for the emergence of Brexit. UK population figures: 55,068,000 – 1966 57,411,000 – 1990 58,091,000 – 1994 58,789,194 – 2002 62,008,048 - 2009

2010 // THE END Europe risks a double-dip recession after bad results emerge from France, Italy and Germany. The Eurozone only grew by 0.1% in the last quarter of 2009. May 11 David Cameron becomes Prime Minister of the United Kingdom after forming a coalition government Also this year the 1st generation iPad is launched. Was this going to be the death of print?

2010 // // THE FUTURE


Magazines // HI-TECH Apple iMac’s and Adobe Creative Suite changed everything. Now the student has exactly the same tools as the professional democratizing the creative process.

Magazines // DIGITAL “Independent Web sites are the future in magazine publishing. The traffic that can be generated is beginning to far exceed the circulation of even the biggest titles.� Tom Hingston Art Director, STAND OFF

Magazines // iPAD The initial excitement and high percentage take-up rates for newspaper and magazine subscriptions on formats such as the iPad were immediately impressive but visits to sites such as the Times and Sunday Times have witnessed a big drop; ‘a massive 87 per cent between July 2010, when the paywall was erected, and November 2010, when figures were released.’ LEWIS (2011, p.57)

Magazines // iPAD With the iPad similar problems are emerging. When Wired US launched its first iPad version in June 2010 it was hailed as a success with over 100,000 purchasers, but by the November 2010 issue numbers had declined to less than 23,000. Other iPad magazine versions have done similarly poorly, and only about fifteen titles have created app versions, yet sales of the iPad have continued to climb from two million in May 2010 to nearly 15 million by December of the same year. Wired

Magazines // TRENDS Lack of loyalty to one publication is blamed as is the free-download generation who are reluctant to pay for on-line content; what the trend prediction agency The Future Laboratory have coined ‘Freesumerism’.

Future Lab

Cool Hunter

Magazines // SHARING The ultimate extension of this was Zinio, which is the world’s largest newsstand. Existing solely on-line it is like iTunes for magazines, offering its readers an easy way to discover and read digital magazines as well as providing the ability to share and archive content.


Magazines // DIY The past decade has seen a shift in the publishing industry from remote editorial control to a trend for mass-customisation within online content. The Mintel report ‘Paid For vs. Free - Consumer Attitudes to Pricing in Media and Music’ (2010) discusses how in this more individualistic and postmodern era, consumer habits are now based around their personal tastes, styles and values. Newspaper Club


Magazines // DIY This new growth has been observed and then embraced by a new generation who have a hunger for DIY Culture and are not seduced by the ‘wonders’ of computer technology, having of course grown up with it. This has co-incided with a return to craft and tradition and a new thirst for an authenticity seemingly absent from computer generated content. As Triggs observes; ‘Zines are now more clearly akin to the handmade aesthetic of many small press artists’ books, with their uncluttered design, handmade stock and unconventional forms of binding. It is telling that zines have started to appear as numbered, limited editions, in a nod to recognising the value of the time and skills of their producers.’ TRIGGS (2010, p.206) Zine Weekly

We Make Zines

Magazines // EVOLUTION We now see a blurring of boundaries between zines and magazines. Both worlds are crossing over and borrowing from one another in order to innovate and survive. This challenge to innovate and constantly find new ways to involve the consumer is observed by Professor Samir Husni; ‘Magazines evolve, change and, ideally, improve as the editions rack up – through better-targeted content’ in LOSOWSKY, ed. (2007, p.13) Nieves


Do You Read Me

Magazines // NICHE The rise of the niche was observed by Chris Anderson of Wired magazine when he first coined the ‘Long Tail’ theory in 2004, stating that; ‘our culture and economy is increasingly shifting away from a focus on a relatively small number of ‘hits’ (mainstream products and markets) at the head of the demand curve and toward a huge number of niches in the tail.‘ ANDERSON (2004) Long Tail

Ted talk

Diffusion of innovation

Magazines // NICHE The underground and niche nature of independent publishing has changed most recently to embrace more digital content and online promotion. Many publications are now creating loyal communities who not only cherish their hard copy editions, but also love customising, interacting with on-line content, and getting involved with other special events. It is the rise of niche, with its great sense authenticity, nostalgia and community that is currently the main trend driver. Stack magazines

Magazines // NICHE In order to survive it is necessary to respond to the consumer zeitgiest and as a result we have witnessed the rise of the niche publication that target specific communities, such as upmarket food zine Fire & Knives, and The Ride, a specialist magazine for cyclists.

Fire and Knives

The Ride

Magazines // AMELIA’S Multi-platform, multi-chanelling and multifarious seems to be the future. A good example of the succesful combination of this working well together is Amelia’s magazine. Amelia Gregory uses social media not just to promote her publication, but also as an integral part of how she finds the contributors. She specifically targets illustrators who use social media to promote their work. Amelia’s exists now solely online and engages with a great deal of political content, as traditionally many zines did. Amelia's

Magazines // AMELIA’S Odling Smee argues that this seachange away from the reliance and dominance of computer generated design may have come about due to the homogenisation we see in today’s society; ‘most [computer generated] design succeeds in generating only a brief moment of interest that is quickly forgotten and that allows little opportunity for imaginative engagement’ ODLING-SMEE (2002, p.11) New Handmade Graphics Innovation in Magazines

Magazines // MARMALADE Conceived by the team behind the now defunct Pill Magazine, Marmalade turned heads when it hit the magazine stands in spring 2003. With it's fresh, original and spontaneous cut and paste content it was a well needed change.


Magazines // SKETCHBOOK A great example of involving the consumer is Sketchbook magazine. Going one step further they have created the ‘live’ magazine experience in 2010. Sketchbook is a quarterly independent magazine that showcases established and emerging creative talents in fashion, design and culture with a focus on features, photography and illustration, featuring original sketchbook graphics and exclusive interviews. Sketchbook

Magazines // SKETCHBOOK The ‘Sketchbook Live’ Events opened up in a pop-up store off Carnaby Street in London. The concept was to create a new hub of creativity with each day dedicated to a new event. Initially a 10day event it was so successful that it was extended for a further three months. Sketchbook has gone on to work on further projects including Sketchbook TV Live, a series of online webisodes featuring interviews with creatives, studios visits and unseen footage of collections and art exhibits.

Magazines // DAZED LIVE Following this trend Dazed and Confused, one of the UK’s most successful independent magazines, begun hosting ‘Dazed Live’ in April 2011.

Dazed Live

Magazines // COLLABORATE In the fiercely competitive world of publishing It’s Nice That has strived to do things differently. In 2011 they teamed up with ASOS; whose sales have risen by 59 percent in the past three months (Telegraph online 2011) and collaborated on a line of tshirts available as limited editions. As a marketing idea this could be seen as a very shrewd move, beneficial to both parties; helping to expand the brand of It’s Nice That whilst giving ASOS the added kudos and coolness by association. It's Nice That


i-Nfluence// BRANDZINES


Kickers story

David Hellqvist

the Dots

Mollie Payne

Brandzines // SELF-PROMO Brandzines are the best business card any brand can have. When first launched in August 2005, Acne Paper promptly gained a reputation as the most exciting new magazine on the market. Acne Paper has published 15 editions, and during this time the magazine has featured and collaborated with some of the most distinguished names in the worlds of photography, art, fashion, and culture at large.

Acne paper

Brandzines // STORYTELLING With client magazines, the true test of their worth is in determining whether the brand’s identity has been properly extended and translated into the printed format. COS magazine is a brand that puts so much care into their choice of materials and which champions clean-cut design, therefore it is appropriate that they so clearly do the same for their magazine. Produced by the publishers of Fantastic Man.

Cos / Magculture

Brandzines // PASSION Unlike other branded publications, ASOS is not in the business of making a “coffee table” magazine. Looking through the glossy pages of this print magazine is satisfying, but ASOS follows its fast fashion ethos to deliver a magazine that appeals to the here-andnow type, and more importantly, the type inclined to buy what’s in ASOS’ pages each month and eagerly await the next month’s picks.



Quietly blog

Brandzines // OPINION Net-a-Porter’s brandzine Porter claims it is more than just a magazine - it is the ultimate fashion experience.



Brandzines // OBSESSION Topshop have capitalized on their young audiences' obsessions with fashion by creating a very on-brand publication. For example one season's magazine is a celebration of the next generation of talent in the world of fashion, beauty, music and culture. In this issue the consumer was introduced to just a few names to watch out for.

Topshop magazine

Brandzines // CREATIVITY Urban Outfitters very own brandzine SHEET is an interesting way of showing the skills and talents of both established practitioners and young professionals eager to experiment. There is essentially no brief and that can be challenging, but when one person curates the magazine it brings together a uniformity that it wouldn’t otherwise.

UO blog

Brandzines // DOCUMENT STUDIOS Document Studios is a creative content agency based on ideas and information. They are all about alternative storytelling: telling brand and product stories through unique editorial content, art direction and design. Document Studios was set up by David Hellqvist in 2014. document studios

Summary // RE-CAP

Summary // KEY POINTS Key trend drivers: • Digital Revolution • Nostalgia • Authenticity

• Brands are constantly seeking added kudos and coolness by association. Collaboration is key – gives the ‘cool factor’ and help creates a creative community. • Consumers want to be part of the conversation with brands . • Digital provides the ability to share and archive content - Multi-platform, multi-chanelling and multifarious . • Mass-customisation - Consumer habits are now based around personal tastes, styles and values. The nuanced consumer. • Niche is everything - huge number of small hits – accumulation. Targeting of specific communities. • Freesumerism – free download generation - consumers expect free on-line content. • DIY culture – return to craft and authenticity.

i-Don’t Forget // ZINES

Always judge a book by its cover 1st impressions are everything

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Name is Sick Cover is Sweet Concept is Tight Content is Hot Production is Shit Hot

Thanks for watching

Never forget

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