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Chef's Special Level 1, 165 Walker Street North Sydney, NSW 2059 Phone: 02 9463 9308 E . d . i .t. o . r

Connaugh Sheehan

C . R . E. D.T. S

S .u. b . s .c . r . i . b . e

1800 550 018 M . A .G. A . Z .I.N.E E . N .Q.U. I . R . I . E . S

Connaugh Sheehan D.e . s .i.g.n

MASH P. r . i . n . t . i . n . g

Southern Colour (VIC) Pty Ltd F. o . o . d S . t .y. l . i . s . t

Simon Bajada P. h . o . t . o . g . r . a . p. h . e . r

John Laurie i . l . l .u. s .t. r . a .t. i . o . n

Harry Slaghekke James Brown

MLA Foodservice Contacts: M . a . r . k . e .t. i . n . g M . a .n. a .g.e .r F. o . o . d . s . e . r .v. i . c . e

Claire Tindale M . a . r . k . e .t. i . n . g M . a .n. a .g.e .r T. r . a . d . e F. o . o . d . s . e . r .v. i . c . e & R . e .t. a . i . l

Roger Bond N . S .W / A . C . T

Doug Piper Q . L . D / N .T

Glen Burke S.A

Roger Bond V. I . C / T . A . S

Gerard Doherty W. A

Rafael Ramirez















P. A . P. E . R S .T. O . C . K

cover _ KNIGHT Linen by K.W Doggett. ISO 14001 EMS, made elemental chlorine free and printed using vegetable based soy inks.


text _ SOVEREIGN silk by K.W Doggett. ISO 14001 EMS, carbon neutral, made elemental chlorine free and printed using vegetable based soy inks.

This publication is published by Meat & Livestock Australia Limited ABN 39 081 678 364 (MLA). Care is taken to ensure the accuracy of information in the publication; however, MLA cannot accept responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of the information or opinions contained in the publication. Readers should rely on their own enquiries in making decisions concerning their interests. Reproduction in whole or in part of this publication is prohibited without the prior written consent of MLA. Š 2012


Feature One :

Keep it in the family — The G rowing of Bin gil Bay Beef


Master Class :


C . O. N .T. E. N .T. S


Beef Shin


On The International Stage :

Ju xtaposition in Chicago: Gastro Taver n & Intimate French Bistro


Feature Two :

The red road to Utopia — Target 100


On The Menu :

The Pub Menu


Feature Three :

Never a Bore with the Boer


One Cut Wonders :

Beef Shin


Bite Sized


Momentary :

Chef Ryan Smith

Read on my Fleischmeister in the making! Thanks, Connaugh

N .O.T. E

The footy’s on the telly and I’ve got my mittens out so it’s time to look at changing those menus!!! As winter creeps closer and the darkness is almost upon us, nothing is more comforting for your customers than those quintessential warmers - lamb shanks, beef pies, spicy warm red meat salads and goat roasts (all with lashings of red wine thank you!). As they take refuge in your restaurants, refuel them with something that will cheer their hearts and soothe their chilblains (okay, I think I’m getting a bit carried away here). Chef ’s Special’s Pub Issue has all the inspiration for winter. Check out our One Cut Wonders pages and On the Menu for some menu motivation as well as those classic comforts usually found on pub menus during the woollies and wellies season.

E. D. I.T.O. R .' S

Dear Chef 's Special reader,

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On a property in the tropics of far north Queensland, two of Australia’s hardiest breeds; Santa Gertrudis and Australian Brahman have been combined to achieve award winning, Meat Standards Australia (MSA™) graded, grass fed beef; busting an old myth that the quality of meat from British breeds in the South is superior to beef produced from Bos Indicus breeds in the North. Bingil Bay beef is owned and run by the Blennerhassett family. Blennerhassett Senior, Ross, runs the breeding program while his two sons, Grant & Brett run the backgrounding, fattening, processing and wholesale side of the business (for the processing side to this story see Chef’s Special issue #76 — A day in a life at Bingil Bay). Over the two properties which cover an area of 50,700 acres, there are around 5,700 cattle at any point in time, ranging from calves through to cattle ready for market.

The main focus for the Blennerhassett family is to have their cattle grade under the MSA™ eating quality program and an important element contributing to eating quality is the on-farm management of cattle. Every farming decision made at Bingil Bay has MSA™ in mind and a particular focal point is minimising stress to ensure a low Ossification Range*. Key farming factors that contribute to achieving MSA™ graded beef are the breed content, nutrition and growth, glycogen levels pre-slaughter, the handling of the cattle to keep stress levels to a minimum and the transportation of animals.

Everything from breed choice; for its suitability to the environment, through to pasture improvement and the decision to process on the property has a focus of minimising stress on the cattle. “We trialled a few breeds of cattle including Angus, but found many did not cope particularly well with the climate and the ticks,” said Grant. “We found the best animal for our climate and for the production of quality beef from this part of Australia is the progeny (the offspring) of a Brahman cow and a Santa Gertrudis bull.” “Our focus on the offspring has lead us to make changes in our farming methods with more of an emphasis on the quality of the weaners (cattle that have just come off their mother’s milk). We put them on pastures that are more nutritious, give them molasses and extra protein so that initial growth rate is constant. We also keep these young ones close so as to keep an eye on what they’re eating and how they’re growing”. To keep the pastures as nutritious as possible and to maintain soil quality, Grant and Brett rotate the cattle between the 8 paddocks at Bingil Bay during their life.

Grant Blennerhassett

The cattle are at Bingil Bay for 20 - 26 months and are processed when they reach, on average, 450Kg live weight. 99.5% of Bingil Bay cattle grade under MSA 3 if aged for 5 days and can grade higher if aged longer. Ø

is one of many carcase attributes measured to determine the MSA™ grade * Ossification of a carcase. Ossification is a measurement of the cartilage in the spine to determine

how much has turned into bone. This can show not only the maturity of the animal but also how much stress the animal has gone through during its lifetime. The higher the conversion of cartilage to bone, the higher the ossification level. Eating quality declines with higher ossification. Ossification is measured at the abattoir when the carcase is split.

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The beef shin, also known as the shank, is taken from the lower leg of a steer. The fore leg shin (H . A . M #1 682) is removed by a cut between the elbow joint and the shin bone; the hind shank (H . A . M #1 683) is removed by a cut in between the knee joint and the shank bone. The shin is a highly worked muscle that is supported by high levels of connective tissue. This connective tissue is broken down through slow cooking over a low heat and results in moist, tender meat with rich flavour. There are 4 shins per carcase.




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2 - s h a n k ) &



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Osso Buco is prepared from the bottom portion of either the front or rear leg. The shin is cut, on average, 3cm thick using a bandsaw. In Italian, Osso Buco literally means ‘bone with a hole’ a reference to the fact that this cut must be a bone - in shin. As Osso Buco comes from a muscle used constantly for movement, it contains a high amount of connective tissue. This tissue breaks down when prepared using slow moist cooking methods such as casseroling and braising imparting a rich, full bodied flavour and a delicious gelatinous texture.

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Using your knife, lightly cut through the skin to locate the seam in between it and the meat and start the ‘p eel’.

03 . 04 . 05 Gently using your knife, follow the seam all around until the skin is completely removed.

06 . 07 . 08 Slice the meat, through to the bone, to the thickness required.

09 . 10 Finish with the bandsaw.

11 . 12 Osso Buco.

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Gastro Tavern & Intimate French Bistro

Dirk Flanigan’s career in the kitchen began as a teenager, where his main focus was to earn enough money to purchase a surfboard. From there he fell in love with the kitchen, bypassing culinary school, to work his way up the line at the Ritz-Carlton Naples in his home state of Florida. At 18 he moved to Chicago to cook at Le Tour under renowned chefs Jeff Jackson (famous for the Drugstore Burger) and Carrie Nahabedian. Since then he has become a Chicago superstar working in many Michelin starred restaurants, becoming a James Beard Award Semi-Finalist in 2011, named a “Rising Star” by Star Chefs and won Chicago Magazine’s Best Restaurant award for his new restaurant; Henri. Dirk is Executive Chef at the 62 seater, French bistro and right next door, his 350 seater gastro-tavern, The Gage.

Your restaurants span two very different themes. What are the concepts behind the restaurants? The Gage was opened five years ago, and really we set out to develop a different scene in the area. We are in quieter Downtown, right across from Millennium Park and Gage opened as this very large, boisterous, loud gastro-tavern. On a weekend we will do 500 covers for brunch and lunch and then another 350 for dinner, and we manage in this area of Chicago to attract seventy percent local custom, and thirty percent tourists. We wanted a ‘sharing’ type of culture, educating people about food and techniques. If we are running lamb then we explain where the lamb is coming from, what farm, what they have been fed, why they are treated a certain way, so in other words, what makes it so special. With Henri size was a determining factor. With only 62 seats, and right next door to The Gage, we wanted that juxtaposition. We made it French, a quaint, hidden spot on Michigan Avenue that makes people feel really special. I try to be a little more rustic at Gage, and a little more refined at Henri, but both restaurants have a lot of me. I really want people to take away a lot of different flavours, a lot of different textures, and a lot of different technique all culminating in a great tasting menu that still provides value.

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You seem to have an appreciation for all things meat related, how did this come about, and how does it help guide your menu? In my first kitchen I was washing dishes. It was a young kitchen brigade and they were constantly short so one night they asked me to clean veal butts. As a young kid I thought it was gross, but then I was pulling silver skin off a veal leg and breaking it down — that was the introduction. The main part of my job at Le Tour, where there was two of us on the Garde Manger, was to be in charge of all the proteins for the line. I was breaking down lamb legs, beef legs, veal racks and cleaning kidneys. I go through a lot of animals in the restaurant. For instance when I have goat on the menu at Gage, I’ll do a goat ragu, with a little bit of curried goat loin, and I bring in whole goats for it. In order for my Amish farmers to supply what I need, I buy them whole and use all I can. I like to show respect.

You have many different red meat dishes on your menus in raw form with a tartare at Henri, to burgers and steaks at both restaurants. When sourcing meat for these very different uses what do you look for in a producer or brand? My main focus is local. Because we are so close to Iowa it’s really simple for us to achieve. With beef, I like it highly marbled and consistent which is sometimes a problem for the smaller producers because they don’t have the control that the larger farms have. Since The Gage is such a large restaurant we also buy some things from outside the local area such as some Australia lamb.

Can you explain your rib dish for us? And its inspiration? I use to do a rib dish a long time ago that was a broken noodle ribs dish. It is the same process as my current dish at Gage but with a lot of lemongrass and Asian flavours. It was dipped in this hotted up oyster sauce and then the noodles added at the very end. For The Gage menu, I wanted to ‘Americanise’ it and get a familiar feeling happening with the ribs. Our establishment is a comfortable place and I wanted that feeling to show through the ribs. The comfort of mustard and the umami of the smoked beef and lamb. So how did I do it? I braise the lamb ribs with all the flavours of BBQ; hit them with the acidic mustard and then take the super succulent meat and crust it in pretzel.

What do you know about the Australian culinary scene that excites you? Peter Gilmore at Quay is doing some special and beautiful food. You can see there is a very deep rooted discipline but also a sense of playfulness about his food. It is just outrageous the great Australian vegetables he uses; they are suited to the subtropical climate. The first time I saw Tetsuya’s stuff (and there was me making root beer reductions) I felt I didn’t know anything! I have also met Shannon Bennett and I thought the theatrics of his restaurant were very cool.Ø

M u s t ar d B arb e q u e S A U C E 20 roma tomatoes • 4 medium spanish onions (2 hot smoked with hickory or apple wood, 2 sliced) 10 garlic cloves, smashed • 5 cups molasses 2 cups tomato paste • 2 cups honey 1 cup dij on mustard • 3 cups yellow mustard 2 cups cider vinegar • 3 cups Sambal Oelek 2 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground 4 tbsp cayenne peppers, roasted and chopped 3 tbsp black pepper, toasted and ground

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washed and chopped • black peppercorns, toasted and course grind • pretzel salt or coarse sea salt such as Murray River

3 packets unsalted pretzels • 1 cup parsley, washed and chopped • 2 cups coriander,

Pretzel Crust

T. H . E

Ribs Coat the ribs with a paste of yellow mustard, olive oil, Sambal and black pepper. Sauté all vegetables in olive oil in a braising dish, add ribs and cover with stock. Cover pan with foil, braise at 120°C until tender. Remove pan from oven and let ribs cool in the braising liquor. When cold, remove ribs from liquid and cut into single ribs. Set aside until service. Reduce liquid by half & cool. Mustard Barbeque Sauce Roast tomatoes in a 200°C oven until the skins are dark brown. Remove skins. Sauté onions, garlic and smoked onions, add tomato paste, fry lightly and add tomatoes. Reduce liquid by half and add the rest of the ingredients, except the Sambal. Cook on low heat until the sauce is rich and viscous, add Sambal, check for acid and seasoning. Pretzel Crust Smash pretzels by pulsing in a processor until a crunchy texture is achieved. Toast lightly in oven until golden. Add chopped herbs and season. Pick Up Bring ribs up to temperature in sauce (and stock if needed), transfer the ribs from the sauce into the Pretzel Serve immediately with a slaw of your choice. Red cabbage, vinegar, crust and coat by tossing gently. chillies and mustard seed is a good way to start.

LAMB RIBS 5 sets of lamb spare ribs • 3L beef stock 5 cups yellow mustard • 2 cups olive oil 2 medium spanish onions, halved and charred on a flat top • 5 ribs celery, cut into 10cm lengths 4 young carrots, washed and cut in half lengthwise 20 garlic cloves, smashed • 1/4 bunch thyme 1/4 bunch basil • Handful black peppercorns, toasted and coarse


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Pretzel Crusted

Lamb R i b s

What does

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that word ‘sustainable’ actually mean and how can the Australian red meat farmer achieve it?

When talking sustainability in cattle, goat and sheep farming it’s all encompassing and is not a one-size-fits all approach. It takes into consideration the environment — making sure the natural environment is not negatively impacted. It includes community and social elements of life — making sure there are jobs in rural areas, including employment for the indigenous population and ensuring that farmers are connected and that rural communities are able to thrive. It’s about ethical farming — making sure animals are well cared for and it is also economic — making sure that farmers are profitable, ensuring farms are viable, and safeguarding our food industry for the future. Target 100 is an initiative developed and managed by Australian cattle and sheep farmers, to deliver by 2020 on all of the elements of sustainability around cattle and sheep farming. This holistic approach is a commitment made to ensure a sustainable food system for the future.

The red road to Utopia — Target 100



T a r g e t

Steve Taylor

“ I started my working life as a contract musterer before deciding to establish my own farm about 40 years ago. My farming philosophy is simple — whatever I touch, I want to leave in a better condition than when I started with it. I believe in sticking to natural production and natural feeding. Ultimately, if I look after the land and create healthy pastures, through avoiding overstocking and practice rotational grazing, the animals will look after themselves. Being connected to the land is important as you need to read the environment and adjust your farming practices accordingly. You need to recognise, not deny and defy nature. For example, during periods of drought, I adjust my stock levels by selling off cattle. If you keep animals on drought affected land, you actually prolong the drought and don’t give the land time to recover. It takes much longer to repair the soil. My key focus has really been to improve pasture, soil health and soil biology. I’ve planted legumes to improve the quality of the soil.


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Chin chilla, Queensland

Sustainability for me is about the footprint we have as a farm. The quality of the soil directly affects the pasture and the animals. The soil needs to be healthy for everything else to be healthy ”. Chef’s Special will publish a series of articles on the Target 100 initiative over the next few issues — check them out to find out more about the program and to see the work being done on farms to ensure the sustainability of red meat. Ø

For more information about Target 100 visit


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In Australia, the pub business has lifted its food game to new heights. The gastropub phenomenon shows no signs of abating and as community attitudes toward alcohol consumption continue to change and gambling regulations tighten, there has been a s i g n i f i c a n t s h i f t in the landscape and the prominence of the pub menu. The expectation of consumers dining out is constantly rising and many pubs have invested heavily in fitting out their dining areas and reinvigorating their menus to ensure they capture some of these more food-centric customers. The following pubs are doing just that. on pub



Lamb Belly


Veg gies The Ship Inn South Bank, Brisbane Chef Gregory Kreutgen

Rogan Josh

Lamb Shank High Road Hotel Riverton, Perth Chef Chris Niquet

Goat Pyrmont Point Hotel Pyrmont, Sydney Chef Steven Beasley

Curry P i e

Chihuahua Brisket with


char grilled corn

l i m e salsa Hotel Wright St Adelaide Chef Patrick White

Achiote Marinated

Skirt Steak, Albert Park Hotel Melbourne Chef Sascha Randle

Mexican Rice


Salsa D i a b l o

Q u e e ns l a n d

N e w S o u t h Wa l e s

Lamb Belly

G o a t Curry Pie


Veg gies

Pyrmont Point Hotel Pyrmont, Sydney Chef Steven Beasley


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The Ship Inn South Bank, Brisbane Chef Gregory Kreutgen

“ Each day, The Ship Inn provides at least 4 special lamb dishes. The lambs are handpicked at the farm south west of Goondiwindi on the Queensland border and transported direct to The Ship Inn. WES TE R N AU S T R AL I A We love the challenge and Rogan Josh each day choose the freshest ingredients to complement our Lamb Shank cuts of lamb, meaning a new surprise is always just around High Road Hotel the corner. Riverton, Perth Chef Chris Niquet Everyone loves lamb and sourcing direct from the farm means we 10kg lamb shanks can provide a great product at a 1kg sliced brown onion great price.” − Gregory Kreutgen Take 1 boneless lamb belly (flap), trim excess fat (1kg - 1.7kg weight range). Season with salt and pepper, and your choice of mixed herbs, including rosemary and thyme. >>> For something different add dried prunes. Tightly roll the belly and tie with string or skewer. Place in a roasting tray with no oil. Slow cook in the oven at 165°C for 1.5 hrs. When belly has cooled down, cut into medallions approximately 2.5cm thick. Make red wine jus - reduce, to a third, half a bottle of red wine in a pan with 2 peeled shallots. Add 850ml of demi-glaze or stock and boil twice. Braise belly medallions in red wine jus in the oven for 10 mins before serving.

† Serve with herb roasted baby potatoes and steamed sugar snap peas.

3 tins whole peeled tomato, pureed 300g rogan josh paste (in house) 200ml vegetable oil 300g diced carrot

“ When thinking about pie fillings, we wanted to get away from the typical. Using the background knowledge of my nepalese sous chef, we decided to go with a goat curry. Who doesn't like goat curry?” − Steven Beasley 1

goat shoulder bone in


1/2 tbsp turmeric 2 tbsp garlic, crushed 1 tbsp ginger, finely chopped 1 tbsp chilli, finely chopped 1 tub yoghurt, 500ml cooking broth

3L vegetable stock (goat stock if you can get it or make it) 10 cardamom pods 5 cloves 2 cinnamon quills 2 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tbsp fennel seeds 1 tbsp whole black pepper 1/2 tbsp fenugreek seeds 2 bay leaves

Seal shanks on flat grill to brown all over and place in deep oven trays. Heat oil in pot and sauté onion, carrot and paste. Add tomato; bring to heat and season. Pour sauce over shanks to cover. Combine spices and yoghurt Cover trays with foil. for marinade. Bake in an oven at 160°C for Spread over scored shoulder approximately 3 hrs or until meat and leave to marinate for 4 hrs. is tender, it should be just about Combine all ingredients for falling off the bone. cooking broth and add goat shoulder. Cover and cook in an oven for † Serve on mashed potato, 2.5 - 3hrs at 160°C until meat is garnish with sautéed beans falling from bone. and cucumber achar. Remove from oven and cool meat in its juice. Shred meat and put bones aside (can make more stock from these if required). Fill pie containers, cover with some short crust pastry (bought or make your own, we make ours with a basic pastry recipe). Egg wash pastry, sprinkle with fennel seeds and bake in 180°C oven for 15 mins or until pastry is golden and crispy.

† Serve with a tomato and coriander salsa.

V i c to ri a

Achiote Marinated S k i r t S t e a k , Mexican Rice and Salsa Diablo Albert Park Hotel Melbourne Chef Sascha Randle 1kg skirt steak, cleaned and trimmed 50g Achiote paste 100ml vegetable oil Make incisions into the meat and press in diced bacon. Toast the Ancho chillies in a pan, then slit them open and with Char Grilled Corn remove the seeds and veins. Put and Lime Salsa chillies in a bowl and soak for 20 mins, drain and put them in Hotel Wright St a blender. Add all remaining chilli Adelaide paste ingredients and reduce to Chef Patrick White a paste. Brown the meat in oil. Remove “ This tasty starter is a prime and drain off all the fat. Place example of the many tempting butter in pan and add the chilli morsels on the share tastes menu mixture. Cook stirring constantly at Hotel Wright St. The Hotel is for 5 mins. located parallel to the iconic Return meat to the casserole Adelaide Central Market dish and spoon chilli mixture and it's the chefs daily pantry to over it. Cover tightly and cook for create exciting local produce– 2 hrs on 160°C. Turn the meat influenced dishes. and scrape down sides. Add more water if sauce is too thick. Continue This recipe was the star at our “Mexican March Fiesta” and will to cook for another 1.5 hrs. South


Chihuahua Brisket

be seen throughout winter on the tasting menu to warm up all the market shoppers who come for a hearty winter dish matched with local beers a plenty.”

− Patrick White

1.3kg brisket point end, deckle off 120g diced bacon 1 tbsp butter 2 tbsp olive oil Chilli paste

cinnamon stick Sprinkle of black peppercorns 2 garlic cloves, peeled 3 large Ancho chillies 40g chipotle chillies 2 tsp salt 3 cloves 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 225ml water Pinch of each; dried oregano, thyme and marjoram


Corn and Lime Salsa

Chargrill 2 cobs of corn and coat with olive oil and black cracked pepper. Cut kernels from the cob and place in a bowl along with 1 chopped fresh chilli, 2 ripe finely chopped tomatoes, 2 spring onions finely chopped, juice of 2 limes, 4 tablespoons olive oil, chopped fresh coriander and mint and salt to taste.

† Serve as tasting plate.

Mexican Rice

250g basmati rice 500ml chicken stock 1 tsp saffron threads, toasted 1 jalapeno, thinly sliced 2 tomatoes, diced 1 bunch coriander, chopped 1 bunch oregano, chopped 100g black turtle beans, cooked (can use red kidney beans)

Salsa Diablo

3 cobs corn, roasted 2 tomatoes, diced - skin on 1/2 red onion, diced 1 jicama, peeled and diced 1/2 bunch coriander chopped 1 jalapeno, brunoise

Red hot sauce Lime juice


Make marinade by blending achiote paste and oil, rub over steak and marinate overnight. Either BBQ or pan roast and rest in a warm place.

Mexican rice

Cook rice by absorption method in a saffron infused chicken stock. When cooked, season with salt and chilli, stir through tomato, black beans and herbs.

Salsa Diablo

Roast corn in husk either on BBQ or stove top. Strip cobs of kernels. Mix corn with diced tomato, red onion and jicama. Season with coriander, jalapeno, hot sauce and lime juice.

† To finish, serve rice with sliced skirt steak and garnished with salsa.

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Goat Meat was highlighted by Chef’s Special in the Summer/Autumn edition as one of the culinary trends for 2012. Most of us are comfortable with goat meat appearing in a curry or an Italian ragu and can even stretch our imaginations to tacos and tagines. But using it in more familiar ways may further help to entice customers to try it for the first time.

Justin has more recently worked on crossing these meatspecific goats with the wilder, Rangeland goat that have roamed free in Australia since the arrival of the first fleet. These goats are derived from a mix of Cashmere, Angora (fibre) and dairy goats, and are well adapted to the Australian landscape. Crossing the Boer goat with the Range-land goat has meant creating a product that is better Justin Gilbert from suited to our climate Booma Boers in and available feed, Dorrigo, NSW has built while producing more a business supplying meat and muscling farmed goat into on the animals. restaurants up and down the coast from With the popularity Brisbane to Sydney. of goat increasing, These goats are a and Justin’s premium premium product Boer and his Boer derived from the cross products in high South African Boer demand, he is now goat which is a meat looking to see how specific breed of goat. he can better utilise Rangeland goats in the foodservice industry, to enable him to meet demand.

Working with food scientists from Meat & Livestock Australia, Justin is working on producing a range of pre-cooked products using Rangeland goats aimed at supplying a wide range of foodservice outlets such as bakeries, pie shops, quick service restaurants, pubs and hotels. These precooked products utilise the whole carcass. They include a goat neck appetiser, a goat pie filling from the leg, barbeque goat ribs, goat shanks, tenderised portion cut goat loin, and diced shoulder prepared for pasta sauces. For something a little creative with goat, try this slow cooked goat breast recipe.


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Slow cooked breast of Goat with sweetbreads and golden sultanas 2 boneless flaps of goat (specify from a boer goat with each flap a weight range of 1kg - 1.7kg) 8 garlic cloves, pureed 2 rosemary sprigs, chopped finely Salt and pepper 100g butter 2 onions, sliced finely 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp herbs de Provence 200ml white wine

200g lamb sweetbreads, blanched and peeled (see Chef ’s Special issue #74 for instruction) 1 tsp honey 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 handful golden raisins Pumpkin puree to serve

Smear the flesh side of the goat flap with the garlic and rosemary and season with salt and pepper. Roll and tie the flaps up so they look like a swiss roll. In a medium sized roast pan, melt half the butter and brown the goat on all sides. Set aside. Add onions, fennel seeds, and herbs de Provence and cook until very soft – about 15 mins. Put the goat breasts on top of the onions and herbs. Add the wine and enough water to half cover the goat. Season, cover and roast at 150°C for Reduce the liquid until you have 2 - 2.5 hours. 200ml. Strain and set aside. Set goat aside to Heat remaining butter with a rest and keep warm little oil and sauté the seasoned until needed. lamb sweetbreads until crisp and golden. Add the honey and allow to caramelise. Add the vinegar, the raisins and 50ml of the reduced roasting liquid. Toss the sweetbreads and raisins together to glaze. Serve with slow roasted goat breast and a smear of pumpkin puree.

C .U.T

W.O.N.D. E.R . S




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Beef shin is taken from the lower leg of a steer with a cut between the elbow and the shin joint. The shin is a highly worked muscle that is supported by high levels of connective tissue. This connective tissue is broken down through slow cooking over a low heat and results in moist, tender meat with rich flavour. There are 4 shins per carcase.



C .U.T








S y d ne y

> > > Serve with steamed rice.

Combine the lime juice, chilli powder, fish sauce and green chillies. This dressing should taste very hot, salty and sour. In a stainless steel bowl, toss together the salad ingredients and add the dressing. To serve, cut the braised beef into 1 cm slices and reheat in the reduced braising liquid. Place the sliced beef in the middle of the serving bowl, and pour over a generous amount of the braising liquid. Place the hot and sour salad on top of the beef, and pour some of the dressing into the meaty juices as it will cut through the richness and balance the dish.


Rub the Kecap Manis all over the beef. Heat a little vegetable oil in a pan and seal the beef on all sides. Remove beef from the pan and place in a deep braising dish. Set aside. Pound the garlic, ginger, coriander root and onion to a paste. Heat some oil in a heavy-based saucepan and fry the pounded ingredients until golden brown. Discard the excess oil and deglaze with the Chinese cooking wine. Add the rock candy, oyster sauce and chicken stock. Bring to the boil and skim off all the scum. Deglaze with Chinese cooking wine. Bring to the boil and skim if necessary. Taste for seasoning, add oyster sauce. Add the black vinegar and extra oyster sauce if necessary. Pour the liquid over the beef. Cover with greaseproof paper and foil, and braise in the oven at 160°C for 2 hours or until the meat is tender. Remove the meat and set aside. Strain the liquid, return to the pot and boil hard to reduce by a third. The mixture should taste rich and meaty.





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BEEF – 1 x 400g beef shin • 30ml Kecap Manis • 50ml vegetable oil 50g garlic, peeled • 40g ginger, peeled • 20g coriander root, scraped and cleaned 100g red onion, diced • 100ml chinese cooking wine • 50g rock candy, crushed 50ml oyster sauce • 1L chicken stock • 50ml chinese black vinegar • 20g sea salt SALAD – Salad Dressing : 50ml lime juice • 5g red chilli powder • 15ml fish sauce 2g green bird’s eye • chillies, finely sliced – Salad : 2g large red chilli, julienned 5g coriander leaves • 5g mint leaves • 2g spring (green) onion (scallion), finely shredded 2g red eschalot, peeled and finely sliced


C .U.T




> > > Serve with toast and appropriate accompaniments.

Place the beef in a baking dish add the wine, shallots and water to cover. Braise, lid on, in a 180°C for 2 hours until meat is tender. Set aside until cool to the touch. Skim the braising liquid and reduce by half, until syrupy. Shred the meat. Combine the beef and parsley in a bowl and season. Pour over reduced liquid and press into a cling film-lined terrine. Let it set by storing for 2 days before serving.





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1kg gravy beef (boneless shin) • 300ml red wine 1L water • 4 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped 5 shallots, chopped • salt and pepper

with a side of


C .U.T





> > > To make the grits, follow the instructions on packet substituting half the water quantity with milk.

Preheat oven to 160°C. Heat oil in a casserole dish over medium-high heat. Add Osso Buco and cook, turning once, until golden. Remove and set aside. Add onion and sauté until starting to soften add wine, tomato and bay leaf and bring to a simmer. Add Osso Buco, cover and roast until meat is tender (1 - 1.5 hours). Remove veal, coarsely shred meat and set aside. Reduce braising liquid by two-thirds and return meat to braise, set aside and keep warm.





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4 3

2 tbsp olive oil • 8 Veal Osso Buco pieces (250gm each) 1 onion, finely chopped • 750ml dry white wine 1 vine-ripened tomato, coarsely chopped • 1 fresh bay leaf

How is lamb aged?

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B. I.T. E


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Only a small amount of lamb brands in Australia age their lambs as part of their brand's specifications. Doing so can assist in the development of flavours and tenderness. As with beef, there are two ways to age lamb: Dry agein g l a mb: Dry aged lamb has been hung within temperatures of -1.5째C to 4째C and in humidity levels of 85% for 6 days. When carcases have been dry aged for 6 days, moisture loss can vary from 1% to 4% depending on the type of carcase. Lower temperatures and higher humidity can lessen yield loss. The optimum level of tenderness has been reached in 5 - 6 days. We t agein g: Wet aged lamb has been aged within a vacuum packed bag. The vacuum pack process provides air-tight containment that protects the meat from oxidation, dehydration and evaporation during storage. The flavour change within wet aged lamb is more subtle than its dry aged counterpart. Wet aged lamb can be aged for up to six weeks if stored properly.

From Cardinalto Brink to Gainsboro What is the story behind the DIFFERENT colours in cooked meat?

Myoglobin, which makes red meat red, starts to fade at 60째C. The hotter the temperature gets the more the red in the Myoglobin fades until it is completely gone and meat is grey. That is why a rare steak is red, a mediumrare steak has faded to pink and a well done steak is grey.

cut alonG here

B. I.T. E

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M . O. M . E. N .T. A . R .Y

N .O.T. E. S

Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) is a service company that invests in marketing and research and development on behalf of its 47,500 beef, lamb and goat producer members. Our role within foodservice is to bridge the gap between farm and kitchen by providing chefs with information and inspiration on red meat.


This Journal

Chef's Special Vol 77 Winter 2012  

The footy’s on the telly and I’ve got my mittens out so it’s time to look at changing those menus!!! As winter creeps closer and the darknes...