N E W YO R K FA S H I O N W E E K M E N S ( N Y F W M ) By: Iesha Coppin
DUCKIE BROWN: RTW SPRING/SUMMER 2016 art movement dating back to the early 19th century. This style was marked by the use of black and white, primary colors as well as simple shapes and figures. Just as the art movement, Duckie Brown designers, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver have returned to minimalism and simplicity in aiding their design process. Voluminous silhouettes contributed to a rather eye brow raising, chin stroking, yet chic lineup that emphasized simple dressing. Back to basics with high-waist trousers and slouchy windbreakers carried out the season’s theme of lightness with airy, breathable materials and forgiving silhouettes made from organza, crepe de chine and charmeuse. All in all, the collection came off a bit repetitive and lacking depth. This is defiantly not a collection to please the masses, rather a collection that acquires a certain taste and fashion enthusiast to pull of these set looks.
Photographer: Jason Jaskot
Ethereal, soft, and fluid are a few words to describe Duckie Brown’s recent ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Steven Cox, creative director to Duckie brown describes the recent collection as “they’re very classic men’s wear pieces done in a somewhat exaggerated way.” Classic wouldn’t be the first word to come to mind but exaggerated pretty much nailed it! Brown’s recent collection, showcased at New York Fashion Week Mens featured overly voluminous sack pants, sheer shirts and oversized jackets. Brown has been one to tread the gender-bending lines and has been noted as one of the pioneers in creating an androgynous approach to their design aesthetic. During a time of self-identity, self-assurance, and self-acceptance one can’t help but commend Brown on being a reflector of the current times. The collection also brought about the De Stijl, meaning ‘the style’ an
SIKI IM: RTW SPRING/SUMMER 2016 “The city seen from the Queensboro Bridge is always the city seen for the first time, in its first wild promise of all the mystery and beauty in the world.” – F. Scott Fitzgerald New York City is filled with dream chasers and risk takers, those who are willing to go the extra mile in making their mark within a crowded room. Siki Im has been deemed one of those set dream chasers, 14 years after arriving from Germany by way of Oxford University, where he studied architecture. Im used the creativity, culture and strive for success in molding his recent collection. “I wanted to combine the gritty and the angelic,” explained Im, as he described his use of New York city as his muse, he cited an eclectic bunch of intrepid auteurs, from Paul Auster and Larry Clark to Philip Glass and Sonic Youth. Titled, “Youth Museum,” the collection screamed frantic, chaotic and 16
out of bounds, all of which follow the pattern of a wayward teenager. Oversize cotton ponchos and graphic sweatshirts were cinched at the waist with rope. When viewing each garment the viewer is able to find pieces from Im’s past such as motherboards, CDs and locks. Im has always been known as the uncommonly storyteller, where he draws his audience closer to his creations, thought process and personal significance throughout each collection. A collaborative effort is also made between Im and his friend, the artist Frank Thiel where peculiar prints were collaged out of photos in their hometown of Cologne. Fine shirts and suits paired with baggy, seemingly dirty jeans or variations on the M-65 military jacket to create a comfortably ununiformed vision of how men, or how Im’s observed men to dress. This collection exudes chaotic brilliance, which is quirky, daring, authentic and ambitious in showing at New York Fashion Week.
RAINE MAGAZINE - VOLUME 25