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MAGAZINE

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Hello our dear friends, readers and contributers!

I am very happy to write a letter in a position of a editor in chief and founder of this beautiful magazine!!

As some of you may know there were many odds to it :), but if you are devoted to an idea and really want something, the universe helps you in any way you can imagine. You start to meet new likeminded people, opportunities are created in each step you take and you have a clear vision where you want to go. So with for this magazine my fundamental wish is to represent beautiful works of fashion people all around the world, to get to know each other, to admire someone’s way of creation and to start to build up a fashion community! Any cooperations, thoughts, suggestions are very welcome! IRINA RUSINOVICH A.K.A LILA NEBEL

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Editor. in .Chief: IRINA RUSINOVICH A.K.A LILA NEBEL Photo editor: YULIA SVYATCHENKO Digital editor: IRINA WITTE Illustrator: LUDMILA LYACHOVA

Contributors MARAT MUKHONKIN KONSTANTIN SOROKIN

SAEM XU PO TSANG HO

LILIYA BONDARENKO

MATT GAZIZ

ULYA NAGUMANOVA

ASEL ULCHANOVA

ELIZABETH FOGEL POLINA NAGORNYKH CHEN CHI

ANNA BORODKINA VERONIKA BATMANOVA SOJIN PARK

Photo: Marat Mukhonkin | @maratmukhonkin Style: Georgy Zaitsev | @georgy_zaitsev MUAH: Yulia Ilina | @muahbygarkusha Model: Kristina | @voguediary

For more information please contact hello@puprlehazemag.com www.purplehazemag.com All material in this issue is exclusive to PURPLEHAZE MAGAZINE and may not be reproduced without prior consent. All copyright remains with the contributors


CONTENTS

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COLOURFUL DISSIMILARITY

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Photo: Marat Mukhonkin @maratmukhonkin Style: Georgy Zaitsev | @georgy_zaitsev MUAH: Yulia Ilina | @muahbygarkusha Models: Kristina | @voguediary llya | @ilyadegtyarevvv Vlad | @vladkarni

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GEOMETRY OF SIMPLICITY Craft dress: stylists own Bracelet & Earrings: Poisondrop @poisondropru Headdress: stylists own Shoes: Marusia Nizovtsova @marusianizovtsova

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DATE WITH THE CITY Photo: Konstantin Sorokin | @sorokin_k Style: Natasha Gorkaya | @gorkaya_natasha Make Up & Hair Style: Alexandra Kulik | @sashamist Assistant Stylist: Shuhrat Yusupof | @bekyusupoff Model: Petra | @svpetrakovaaa Grace Models Agency @gracemodelsmoscow

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URBAN GIRL

Photographer: Matt Gaziz @matt.gaziz Muah: Asel Ulchanova @au_makeupastana Model: Eva Nesterova @nesterova_eva

RURAL HOUSING SERVICE Photographer: Chen Chi www.instagram.com/chenchitw Styling: Saem Xu www.instagram.com/saemxxu Makeup & Hair: Po Tsang Ho www.instagram.com/potsangho Model: Georgia G

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80 ASSEMBLED HALF interview with a designer from Berlin

KAD FROM GUINEA Our interview with the next modeling sensation

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#Articles 106 REOCCURRING FASHION TRENDS

CONTENTS

#Interviews 96

DUO FROM BARCELONA Interview with fashion stylists

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IS UNISEX AN UPCOMING FASHION TREND? MINIMALISM IN ART AND FASHION: IDEAS AND IMAGE

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FASHION FACE


MUAH: Yulia Ilina @muahbygarkusha Models: Kristina | @voguediary llya | @ilyadegtyarevvv Vlad | @vladkarni

Colourful

Style: Georgy Zaitsev @georgy_zaitsev

dissimilarity

Photo: Marat Mukhonkin @maratmukhonkin


Dress: Vanya Vanin


Kristina: Dress: Forever Unique; Hat and shoes: Vanya Vanin Ilya: Shirt: Aeronautica Militare; Jacket and pants: Elevent; Boots: Bikkembergs Vlad: all: Eleventy; Boots: Bikkembergs


Sweater: Iceberg Long Sleeve: ICE play Shorts and pants: OVDEXA


Sweaters: Iceberg


Kristina – Hat: Vanya Vanin; Long Sleeve: OVDEXA; Dress: Forever Unique; Boots: Puma Vlad – all: OVDEXA


Hat: Vanya Vanin; Long Sleeve: OVDEXA; Dress: Forever Unique


Dress: Vanya Vanin


T-shirt and shorts: OVDEXA


All: OVDEXA


Caps: Eleventy Jackets: SORRY, I’M NOT Sweaters: Iceberg Jeans and pants: Aeronautica Militare Boots: Bikkembergs


Cap: SORRY, I’M NOT


Date with the city Photo: Konstantin Sorokin | @sorokin_k Style: Natasha Gorkaya | @gorkaya_natasha Make Up & Hair Style: Alexandra Kulik | @sashamist Assistant Stylist: Shuhrat Yusupof | @bekyusupoff Model: Petra | @svpetrakovaaa Grace Models Agency | @gracemodelsmoscow


Jacket: PINKO for INVICTA


Jacket: Uterque Turtleneck: Bikkembergs


Turtleneck: Bikkembergs Pants: P_jean Boots: Ganor Dominic


Pullover: Nude Jeans: Vanda Fondunaeva Ankle boots: Iceberg


Pants: Caractere Blouse: Love Moshino Bag: Coccinelle


Skirt: Nude Fur coat: Pinko Pantyhose: Calzedonia Shoes: Ganor Dominic


Jacket: PINKO for INVICTA


Pullover: Iceberg Bag: Ice Play Bombs and trousers: Vanda Fondunaeva Glasses: Asos


Craft dress: stylists own Bracelet & Earrings: Poisondrop | @poisondropru Headdress: stylists own Shoes: Marusia Nizovtsova | @marusianizovtsova

Geometry of simplicity

Producer: Julia Svyatchenko | @juliasvyatchenko by VoxProduction | @voxproduction Photographer: Liliya Bondarenko | @bussardel Stylist: Ulya Nagumanova | @ylittka Hairstylist: Elizabeth Fogel | @hairdresserlf Make up: Polina Nagornykh | @polza_mua Model: Sasha Belikova | @sashaxuyasha Location: VoxStudios | @voxstudios


Top, hat & shoes: Marusia Nizovtsova | @marusianizovtsova Shorts: stylists own Necklace (on top of the model’s ears): Marusia Nizovtsova | @marusianizovtsova Shoes: Marusia Nizovtsova | @marusianizovtsova


Top & pants: Marusia Nizovtsova | @marusianizovtsova Necklace: Poisondrop | @poisondropru Rings: Poisondrop | @poisondropru


Jacket: Mare | @mare_blazer Craft dress: stylists own Earrings: Poisondrop | @poisondropru Shoes: Zara


Craft dress: stylists own Bracelet & earrings: Poisondrop | @poisondropru Headdress: stylists own


Coat: Marusia Nizovtsova | @marusianizovtsova Dress: Storia | @storiadesign Earrings: Poisondrop | @poisondropru Rings: Poisondrop | @poisondropru Shoes: Strogovintage | @strogovintage


Jacket: Mare | @mare_blazer Hood: Marusia Nizovtsova |@marusianizovtsova Earrings: Poisondrop |@poisondropru Leggings: stylists own Shoes: Strogovintage @strogovintage with handmade decor by: @ylittka


Top, hat & necklace (on top of the model’s ears) - all: Marusia Nizovtsova | @marusianizovtsova


Dress: Paolo Casalini

Urban Girl

Photographer: Matt Gaziz | @matt.gaziz Muah: Asel Ulchanova | @au_makeupastana Model: Eva Nesterova | @nesterova_eva


Shirt: Sisley


Shirt: Sisley


Dress: D&G


Red: Valentino Necklace: Swarowski


Dress: See by Chloe


Dress: stylists property


Scarf: Gucci


Jacket: Westbound


Dress & Hat: BANXIAOXUE


Rural housing service Photographer: Chen Chi | www.instagram.com/chenchitw Styling: Saem Xu | www.instagram.com/saemxxu Makeup & Hair: Po Tsang Ho | www.instagram.com/potsangho Model: Georgia G


Dress & Hat: BANXIAOXUE


Dress: Angel Chen Suit & Skirt: C+plus SERIES Shoes: Charles & Keith Earring & Pin: YVMIN Hat: Florentina Leitner


Coat: C+plus SERIES Dress: Roberto Cavalli Earring: YVMIN


Coat: C+plus SERIES Dress: Roberto Cavalli Earring: YVMIN


Dress: Lado Bokuchava Shoes: Roberto Cavalli Earring: YVMIN


Dress: Lado Bokuchava Shoes: Roberto Cavalli Earring: YVMIN


Coat: Angel Chen Hat: Angel Chen Earring: YVMIN Shoes: Charles & Keith


Coat: C+plus SERIES Top & Skirt: Lado Bokuchava Bum Bag: C+plus SERIES Earring: Aurora Chi Shoes: Charles & Keith


ASSEMBLED HALF INTERVIEW WITH A DESIGNER FROM BERLIN @assembledhalf

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SoJin Park is a Berlin-based fashion designer and illustrator. She graduated from EsMod Berlin in 2014 and a year later started her label Assembled Half for which she creates oneof-a-kind unisex clothing that could also double as artwork. Her work always begins with her drawings, and each piece is produced by screen-printing or painting directly on the fabric. The result is collections that mix fantastical elements, simple silhouettes, and the rawness of unfinished textiles. We wanted to know more about the person who creates canvaces on clothing and asked her for an interview for PURPLEHAZE MAGAZINE. #THERISEISSUE

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As we know, you have graduated in Berlin, was it your childhood dream to become a designer? As a child, I always liked to make something with my hands using paper toys around me. Yes, I wanted to be a designer and an artist from then on. Have you always lived in Berlin? I was born and raised in Seoul, South Korea. I had lived there for almost 30 years and then moved to Berlin to study fashion. Do you consider Berlin a good starting point for fashion people? Berlin has a lot of potential for creative people. It is an inspiring city where artists or designers can rent studios and create something at relatively low price. Ironically, because it is not a rich city, it is difficult for the fashion industry to grow and expand. Many fashion designers who are based in Berlin make their fashion shows and presentations in Paris or London; they also sell their clothes there. If anyone plans to become a fashion designer in Berlin, they should consider this. You have a very special way of creating your collections, could you tell us more about the process? I’m doing everything from designing to cutting and sewing myself. I always start my work with drawing and painting. And then connect it to my collection. I do not have a particular concept or theme for each season; rather, I put together a collage of bits and pieces from my emotions and

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feelings as well as stories of people and images I encounter during the preparation. Usually, I either paint directly on the fabric or extend to my various artworks in a handcrafted way. Therefore, each piece is created by hand and produced independently, resulting in a unique and one-of-a-kind piece for the person who will be wearing it. The name of your brand is fascinating, tell us the story behind it. The important meaning in Assembled Half is “Between,” “The beauty of synthesis,” and “Spirit of Bibim” (in Korean, “Bibim” means a mix of different things). While one half looks for the other half to make one, each element and form meet to either be combined or transformed into a different thing. What inspires you? A lot of things. I have a lot of different reference sources. People on the street, books, films, music, friends, colors, cultures, etc. I’m also interested in reinterpreting old things through transforming. I like hems that are frayed into a fringe over time. I like colors that are faded. What kind of message do you want to convey with your work? Flying low. Do you set any goals as a designer? Or is it ‘come what may’? It’s not like I have something new every year, but I want to improve everything #THERISEISSUE

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all the time. Also, I try not to get narrowminded. Being a fashion designer, do you feel the need to keep up with the tendencies in the fashion industry? Tendencies and trends are an important part of the fashion industry, and I cannot stay out of their influence. However, I believe being focused on my own sources and expanding them is more important than keeping up with the tendencies. Can you choose your favorite and most iconic fashion piece from your collections? And why? I like the handcrafted Dosa dress and hand-printed Jergori jacket. They are my brand’s signature items, and I have them every season. These items are made in unfinished style on purpose, with frayed hems, natural textures, and prints. What is your advice to aspiring fashion designers? The only advice I have is that you already know the best advice for yourself. So keep on going. What is next for you? Any particular project or collection you are working on? I will continue to do the project A / H, which is the second line of Assembled Half. This is a more spontaneous project using recycled clothes that has various approaches without fixed schedules. Thank you for the interview!

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OUR INTERVIEW WITH THE NEXT MODELING SENSATION

KAD FROM GUINEA @officialkad Photos by Ilia Zavialov @iliazvv


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Kad has the personality of a true supermodel. Read through to get to know modeling’s next big star.

So tell us where are you from? Hello I’m Kad. I am from Guinea (Conackry), West Africa. How and when were you discovered? I was discovered while I was shopping in the biggest mall in Nancy (a small town north of France). Were you always interested in the fashion industry? Did you know about it before? No, I wasn’t really interested in fashion industry, but I used to watch celebrities on TV, and I was obsessed with their outfits. Why did you choose to pursue a career as a model? First of all, modeling gave me confidence that I did not have before. Thanks to modeling, I got so many opportunities, like traveling around the world and meeting new people and cultures, while simultaneously making money… why should I leave this kind of job? What are your favorite modeling experiences so far? My favorite experience so far has been my first cover for Grazia Magazine beauty – I was so emotional to see myself everywhere in Paris and Nancy as well for a week! I wasn’t expecting to be on the cover. #THERISEISSUE

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What are you hoping to see in the future? Are there specific clients you are really hoping to work with? I hope one day I will do a beauty campaign for Yves Saint Laurent and runway for Fendi, Prada, Dior, Hermès, etc. I also wish there will be more diversities in the fashion industry in the future. Are there any designers that you really like to wear? How would you describe your style? I love Celine Paris so much! They make very comfortable clothes and classy at the same time; it even looks vintage! I love casual and trendy clothes.

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If you had to say – what three things make a great model? Strength, discipline, and versatility. Outside of fashion, what do you find inspiring or stimulating? I have a bachelor degree in Sociology, so I’m very obsessed with listening to people talk about their experience in life, and I like spending my time to help others. Lastly, what advice you would give to an a spiring model? I will say to everyone who would like to do modeling – they have to be very strong and hard working; it is not as easy as they see it on the TV! Thank you so much for the interview!

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INTERVIEW WITH FASHION STYLISTS

DUO FROM BARCELONA @stylistsincime

Exclusive interview for PURPLEHAZE MAGAZINE with Maria & Raquel, fashion stylists, wardrobe and image consultants from Barcelona. The Stylists Duo has worked as a for numereuos advertising production companies and editorials for fashion magazines including, HUF magazine, ELEGANT and other and today we are happy to chat with them about style and fashion. 96

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Tell us about yourselves? Where do you both come from?

occasions, we have a different approach.

Maria: I come from Alentejo – a region in the south of Portugal – but I moved to Barcelona at the end of 2016.

Raquel: In our opinion, this is very positive as each of us contributes to the project differently and complements the other.

Raquel: I come from Zamora – a province in the north-west of Spain – and I have been living in Barcelona since 2008. We both met in Barcelona during the Fashion Styling Course at the IED (European Institute of Design) a year and a half ago. As we always say, it was love at first sight, haha! Raquel: I fell in love with her clothes and crazy hair. Maria: I thought “I like this girl, she has something… I will get to know her” Maria: I studied Graphic design in Algarve. Raquel: I was working as a Contracting Manager in an Online Travel Agency, but we were looking to change careers and work in the fashion industry. And how did you both become fashion stylists? We were told that it was really difficult to work as a fashion stylist and to make a living out of it,so it was then that we said to each other “what the hell, let´s try it!” :) You are a styling DUO, tell us how is it possible to combine two artistic minds into one? Do you have one vision? Maria: We don´t have one vision at all, let´s say that we have a similar taste in many things, but on many

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Working as a duo is not always easy, but it is definitely interesting, fun, and challenging. What inspired you to go into fashion styling? Maria: Ialways had a thing with clothes; I loved to experiment with my wardrobe, mixing styles and prints, trying different haircuts. I wanted to study Fashion Design in Lisbon, but it was not possible at that time due to my grades, that´s why I got into Graphic Design. Raquel: My grandmother was a dressmaker and my mum used to make clothes for me, so fashion and clothes have been always around. Describe your style in 3 words. Maria: Colorful / Experimental / Eclectic Raquel: Vintage freak / Colorful / Naive Who are your style icons? Uff! This is a difficult one;there are so many! María: Rita Lee (Brazilian Singer), Iris Apfel, Carmen Miranda (PortugueseBrazilian singer, dancer, and actress) Raquel: Bowie and Hendrix for sure, Iris Apfel as well, she is adorable, Brigitte Bardot and Grace Kelly in her


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Hollywood years, and also Lady Gaga, love her style since day one. (I think these are more than 3, right? Ups! :) ) What’s your wardrobe must-have piece? Maria: One blazer and shirt that have printed tigers on them. Raquel: Black mini-skirt, black minidress,and black trousers... anything goes well with them. Do you prefer to work on photosets or with real clients? Maria: Photo sets are always more creative and fun, although private clients can be a surprise and a real challenge; we might not have as much freedom as in other projects,but we always learn a lot from them.

What’s your approach when you first start styling someone? Do you ask questions, go through their closet? Raquel: We usually set up an appointment, have a chat with the clients to understand their needs and expectations, and then go through their closet. Maria: Once we have a clear idea and a selection of clothes in our minds, we create a moodboard to have their approval. It is vital that clients are comfortable with our proposal before starting. What’s the most fun part of your job? Without any doubt, it is the creation of a Fashion Editorial; we love creating the concept from scratch, producing, and organizing the whole team. Most challenging? To surprise a client when we use her/his own clothes. Favorite look that you’ve styled to date? The futuristic and dystopian looks we made in collaboration with the Argentinian photographer and visual artist Antonella Arismendi a couple of weeks ago, you will be able to see them very soon. What is one no-fail styling trick you have? Always combine a basic piece with your crazy ones. Overlays are always a winner. If you feel happy and confident with your outfit,it is because it is the right one for you.

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What’s your philosophy on the highlowmix? What are some of your goto approachable brands? Our philosophy is to invest in good quality basic pieces that last longer, also good shoe sand handbags. To search for small and sustainable brands as well as brands of young designers. Regarding our go-to approachable brands, we love some local brands such as Loidi, the designer Krizia Robustella and some others such as Dominnico or Rita Row. Maria: Not to mention all the lovely second handshops – we are truly second-hand lovers! If you could choose anyone to give a makeover, who would it be and why? Donald Trump, Angela Merkel, King Felipe VI of Spain…etc. It´s quite clear why :) Let’s say you could travel back in time to one fashion era, where would you end up? What did you like about that period? Maria: Hollywood´s golden age. I love the glamour and movies made in those decades. Raquel: The 20’s, the dramatic change from previous decades, the liberation in women´s clothing, the oriental influence… Where do you see yourself professionally in the next 5 years? Maria: We love what we do so we see Stylists in Crime very, very busy in five

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years with many different interesting projects in the pipelinenot only in Barcelona but around the world. Raquel: It would be great to collaborate with big namessuchas the photographers Tim Walker or the Spanish Txema Yesteone day…I loved their work! Maria: I would love to collaborate with Mario Testino. Both: Fingers crossed! Thank you very much for the interview Thanks to you! :)


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Reoccurring Fashion Trends REOCCURRING FASHION TRENDS Author: Daria Novikova

F

ashion is very changeable. Styles, forms, and fabrics change. As a rule, the change of ideals in clothing is associated with the fashion cycles.

Designers take ideas from the past; clothes as well as elements of clothes, which has seemingly disappeared forever, once again become popular in the society. For example, in Europe in the 18–19th centuries, one of the military uniform items were tight trousers made of moose skin, or leggings. What can we observe? The women’s elastic trousers — the leggins — originatefrom the end of the 20th century! For a long time, the return of the 1980s style (broad shoulders, banana trousers) was impossible, because this style was an image of absurdity for many people. However, in the 2000s, images that were relevant in the 1980s returned to the runway and then to the stores.

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Fashion standards repeat themselves The previous fashion standard can return to fashion only when everyone has forgotten about it. As a rule, this is due to the change of generations. Thanks to this process, we can have the so-called retro-fashion. There are also various borrowings from other cultures. New fashion ideas, styles, and elements emerge from the fine arts (for example, surrealism in the fashion of the 1930s), the cultures of ‘exotic’ regions (the ethnic style in fashion), and youth subcultures (for example, grunge style in the 1990s). The appearance of something genuinely new is a rare occurrence in the history of fashion. Most often,

it is new materials and technologies. For example, clothing made of plastic and metal (created by P. Rabanne in the 1960s), mini-fashion. They don’t have clear prototypes, but they remind of the ideals of the 1920s — i.e. the conciseness of forms, the interest in sports. In the second half of the 1970s, thanks to the popularity of synthetic materials, new, brighter colors appeared. However, this disco style also had a prototype — the glamour of the 1930s. Because of that, we can conclude that even with the invention of new materials and technologies, designers unknowingly use the experience of the past.

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How long does the fashion live? Fashion researchers do not have a common opinion about the duration of a fashion cycle. They provide different numbers — from two to nine years. Researcher Agatha Young studied the period of the female skirt design repetition and revealed a period of an average of 36 years. American scientists J. Richardson and A. Kreber investigated the development of female clothes and established the duration of cycles of mode oscillations — from 111 to 115 years. French fashion theorist J. Wilhelm proposed the following cycle of fashion: in the Middle Ages, it was10 years, in the 18th century, it lasted for 5 years, and in the 1970s, it was 1 year.

American anthropologist Alfred Kreber argues that fashion changes occur when a certain clothing parameter (open neckline, skirt length) reaches a critical peak. Then the trend begins to develop in the opposite direction. Alfred Kreber also highlights the cycle of fashion in one century. The cycle of fashion, according to some scientists, depends on solar activity. The researcher established that the shortening of the skirt, the ‘exposure’ of the body, and the use of chromatic colors occurs during periods of maximum solar activity. At the same time, there is a hypothesis about the influence of sociocultural factors on fashion. In the days of stability, we have clothes with a feminine silhouette, i.e. an hourglass. When there are revolutions and wars, theplanned cycle of fashion can be changed. Because of reoccurring fashion trends, it possible to predict fashion. In this regard, mass production of clothes can be prepared for the release of new collections in advance, to understand what fabrics and styles will be fashionable in the next season. In the same way, we can predict fashionable color. In this regard, the new styles, after being shown on the runway, almost immediately appear in the shops. An advice for those who follow trends — do not throw clothes away. Perhaps it will become ultra-fashionable in the future. If you have your grandmother’s wardrobe, carefully inspect it. Maybe you will find something that has returned in fashion.

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MINIMALISM in Art and Fashion: Ideas and Image Reflections on ‘Less is More’ from the 1960s to the Present Day Author: Anna Borodkina

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Donald Judd, Untitled, 1968

Today when the word ‘minimalism’ comes up, something simple and plain comes to one’s mind. But it wasn’t always like that. In its early days – in the 1960s – minimalism was an elaborated concept, which sought to liberate traditional art from its old form. Dan Flavin, the nominal three (to William of Ockham), 1963

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Donyale Luna photographed by Guy Bourdin in a Paco Rabanne design for Vogue, April 1966.

Cardin, 1960s

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inimalists believed that the absence of narrative and the author’s signature in works – which were quintessential for many centuries – would make art balanced, refined, and honest. That would turn an object into an anonymous thing in space, which would mean that the philosophy of substance or technical attributes became fundamental. All of this corresponds with the three key themes that influenced the art scene in the 60s, namelythe Japanese tradition of Zen, Scandinavian wave, and Constructivist heritage.

Courreges, 1966

Major minimalism artists include Donald Judd, Dan Flavin, Robert Morris, Frank Stella, Carl Andre, and Sol Le Witt. Most of their works are installations or sculptures interacting directly with the museum space. Even today, many of them look very modern – for example, Flavin’s light art compositions or Morris’ cubes with mirrors. Design and architecture, to which minimalism has the strongest ties (because it is spatiallyoriented), bring up the discussion about the relationship between human and art. Fashion, as one of the most practical industries in design, can give us a clue on how minimalism can be reworked for actual human needs.

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Fashion designers of the 60s – Courreges, Rabanne, and Cardin – used clean lines, monochrome combinations, and plastic, which was a synonym for hi-tech. Paired with the fashion ‘achievement’ of that decade – the miniskirt – the new image appeared; a new woman, who is modern, free, independent, and appreciates functional and simple clothing.

Minimalism-in-fashion Comme-des-Garcons 1997

Helmut Lang SS 1992

Stella Tennant at Helmut Lang’s Fall 1999 show

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inimalist ideas had a major comeback in the late 80s and 90s, with the help of Helmut Lang, Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Issey Miyake. Each of them had a different understanding of ‘minimalist,’ be it the reducing of colors to black and white, unisex garments or denying clothes as such. In today’s world, once an uber-elitist concept, minimalism has become global. The main thesis of ‘Less is more,” suggested by Mies van der Rohe, architecture evangelist, has become an integral part of the culture, seamlessly incorporated in everyday life. A modern person, acitizen who is always busy, needs an aesthetic retreat, some objects (art pieces or design solutions), which do not require a сlose and careful inspection. All items need to have a purpose and function, reflected both in their form and content. That’s why, subconsciously following an old principle of pithiness, modern artists, designers, and architects strive to say a lot using little, be it a new museum building or a bijoux collection. #THERISEISSUE

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unisex

Is an upcoming fashion trend? Author: Veronika Batmanova

In recent years, the conversation about gender-free clothing has got a new wave of discussion. Famous designers such as Alessandro Michele (Gucci) or Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga) experiment with mixed collections on the catwalk; the son of American actor Will Smith poses in a 2016 Louis Vuitton campaign wearing a skirt; new brands without masculine and feminine section division keep on appearing.

A female and male model promoting the same coat in Zara campaign

Even the mass market does not lag behind – such brands as Zara or H&M have also launched their unisex collections.

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The tendency is quite clear. Nowadays, the fashion industry tends to blur the lines between women swear and menswear. But why is this happening, is it healthy, and when did it all start? No need to say that fashion is cyclic and regularly repeats itself. The decent flashes of unisex clothing could be already seen in the 1960s with beatnik culture or in the 1990s with the popularity of Calvin Klein jeans.

Beatniks

Nevertheless, the situation in today`s world is not just a reflection or nostalgy of the past decades. It`s different and depicts a significant social trend – in 2018, the progressive society of our planet is tolerant to a person of any gender, orientation or color. And even if the idea is still not massively spread, that is what designers are trying to tell us through fashion. #THERISEISSUE

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Agender shops, mostly online stores, appear in Canada, USA, UK, Spain, and other countries. For instance, Canadian label Broke & Living was founded by three women of color Charlene Akuamoah, Meghan Prosper, and Nicole Simmons. Their philosophy is to create clothing not only for themselves but also for people of all genders, body types, and races.

“It’s easy to just keep everything uniform and create boxy items that fit both men and women,” said Simmons in one of the recent interviews.

Image from Broke & Living lookbook

Other genderless brands, such as 69 Worldwide based in Los Angeles or New-York’s One DNA follow kind of similar aim, namely, to create trendy clothing items for all genders, ages, and races. Although the trend of unisex fashion is quite evident – which is good for agender people – it must be said that masculine and feminine division will hardly disappear from the global market; expectations of what men and women should wear are tightly put in our minds since childhood, so mainstream brands have no point in creating only genderless collections if they still want to get income from the majority.

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FALL | WINTER 2018


photo source - pinterest

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