PROMENADE ISSUE #3
© DESIGN: PROMENADE ‘13
Editor’s Letter This Spring is all about the bold. Bright colours, powerful prints and statement trends came alive on catwalks worldwide, and Sussex Fashion Society aren’t ones to miss a beat. Promenade #3 has scoured the globe (literally) to bring you all the fashion, street style and culture you expect from one of Sussex’s most stylish societies. Promenade goes backstage with the Dame of boldness, Vivienne Westwood, at her S/S ’13 show in Backstage Confidential, and chat to one of Brighton’s youngest and most ambitious designers, Isaac O’Riordan in About A Boy. We invite you to take a fresh look at perennial sartorial debates in Vintage Fashion, What’s That Jacket, Margiela? and Why Ethical Fashion, before considering the possibility of ‘meggings’ - is too little too much? Taking inspiration from this season’s trends and Brighton’s eclectic aesthetic, Promenade’s editorial shoot Black Rock aims to inspire creativity with colour and prints. This is echoed in our S/S ’13 beauty shoot, where Promenade opts for bold lips and graphic eyes before considering Is Your Face a Façade? And that’s not all. No style magazine would be complete without letting you in on the most exciting exhibitions, tastiest places to eat and coolest up and coming musicians - check out our pieces on Valentino: Master of Couture, The Giggling Squid and the oddly controversial Lana Del Rey in the Arts and Culture section. And where to plan your next holiday? Make sure you read Amsterdam before dismissing the home of the ‘coffee shop’ so quickly. After months of hard work, Promenade #3 is ready and waiting for you to explore. So what are you waiting for? Turn the page!
Editor-in-Chief: Isabella Silvers Sub Editor: Kate Eringer Women’s Fashion Editor: Charlotte Harding Men’s Fashion Editor: Abraham Baldry Fashion Co-ordinators: Kate Eringer & Charlotte Harding Beauty Editor: Helen Roberts Arts & Culture Editor: Liviy Gordon Arts & Culture Sub-Editor: Zoe Killingbeck Photography Co-ordinator: Ruby Stone-Sharp Street Style Editor: Camilla Di Renzo Creative Director: Christian Ilbury Lead Graphic Designer: Christian Ilbury Beauty Section Graphic Designer: Betty Bailey
C O N T E N T S
SPRING ISSUE - FEBRUARY 2013
Black Rock pg. 23
4 Trend: Velvet 5 Feature: COS 6 Changing Face of Fashion 8 Backstage Confessional 10 Feature: Margiela H&M 12 Ethical Fashion 14 Confessions 15 Trend: Vintage 16 Street Style 18 About A Boy 20 DIY Fashion 22 Editorial Mens Fashion 38 Feature: High End 39 Saint Laurent Review 40 Meggings
Beauty 42 44 46 49 51
Sussex Fashion Show Is Your Face a Façade? Beauty Feature Skin Sensibility How Far is Too Far?
Culture 52 53 54 56 58 60 62 63 64 65
Music: Lianne Li Havas Music: Lana Del Rey What’s On: London What’s On: Brighton Beyond Biba Food: In Brighton Film: The Great Gatsby Travel: Switzerland Travel: Student Escapes Travel: Amsterdam promenade -spring
BLUE VELVET she wore
Often associated with the 1990s- see the velvet mini dresses of the grunge scene or the boho-chic ensembles of Phoebe from Friends- velvet is not a new trend. Being born in the 90s, it made a regular appearance in my wardrobe as a child: from the black velvet dress I wore to my sister’s 9th birthday party to the outrageous deep purple flared velvet jumpsuit I wore on the first New Year’s Eve I stayed awake past midnight (my best friend had a matching one in bright pink and we absolutely adored them). Despite some classic and not-so-stylish sartorial experimentation with velvet throughout the years, it still has a timeless quality, being revived most recently by Lana Del Rey’s cover of the 1950’s pop song ‘Blue Velvet’ for her H&M campaign. On the A/W 2012 catwalks, velvet was seen in gorgeous jewel tones at Gucci and gothic black at Versace. Velvet is also a staple for many young, inspiring fashion bloggers, including Olivia Harrison (http://blog.oliviaemily.com) and Lua P (http://le-happy.com), who incorporate baggy tees and khaki parkas into their velvet ensembles to create an easy, comfortable, cold weather-friendly look. However, for those of us that cannot afford the latest green Gucci maxi, the high street is the way to go for your velvet fix. From soft leggings in the day to a glamorous skater skirt at night, there’s a velvety option for any occasion in deep and seductive hues of jet black, oxblood red, navy blue and forest green. However, for those of you who are looking for maximum impact in the coming season, I suggest Mink Pink's magenta party dress (available at ASOS) or glittery hotpants from Urban Outfitters. As for me, I will be picking up an American Apparel royal blue crop top. After all, she wore blue velvet… -ALEXANDRA OSBEN
Clockwise from top: Gucci (The Sartorialist), Urban Outfitters glittery hotpants, Lua P - photobucket, Mink Pink magenta party dress (ASOS)
we need to talk about...
Timeless! Modern! Tactile! Functional! Boring? Never. So what’s the big deal about COS? Allow Heather Gwyther to explain… As a raging cissexual, there’s nothing I love more than clothes: buying clothes; thinking about clothes; talking about clothes; bitching about other people’s clothes – I am quite dull. That said, your disco pants are getting saggy in the crotch. We need to talk about COS. Founded in 2007, COS is an acronym of Collection of Style. If you are one of those people who love banging on about 'The Corporations' (such a cool band), I should probably let you know that COS operates under the H&M group. The only thing that should concern you about this is that there is no explicit 'Stuff Which Isn't Tacky & Could Almost Pass for COS' section on the H&M website. Otherwise, COS is an independent woman – albeit with less bootyliciousness and more minimalism. I could pussyfoot around the issue of price but you're probably a student and I happen to love stereotypes: COS isn't that cheap and – cry me a kitchen spill – there is no student discount. Being a person of refined silliness, I rarely feel the need to justify a fruitful browse there. If I was consumed with guilt, my defence would probably involve slagging something else off: my current mantra is 'second year, shed a tear', in case you wanted any clues. Like its competitors, COS caters to that classy customer who seeks 'affordable luxury'. My dalliance with 'affordable luxury' peaked when Primark started doing cashmere. I will need to do battle with 'A 2:1 is no longer good enough and I shall be living with my parents until I retire' syndrome before I can rightfully dub COS as ‘affordable’.
Yet there is always hope! I call it: THE SALE. COS sales are great, truly. Here's 3 reasons why: 1.The markdowns don't really do foreplay. Where other shops will cautiously hack off smaller percentages bit by bit, COS shoots to stun: You'll see a few 50% off tags in the first day. 2.COS does flash sales! These seem to pop up out of nowhere (like a charity mugger) and return to that heavenly place from whence they came just as swiftly. I have bought a dress which was still being sold at full-price on the website – it still makes me swoon. 3.The new prices of items are never explicitly marked on the tag, you have to work out the deductions yourself! I am willing to admit that I may be on my own in seeing the joy of this – it's the only time I use my maths GCSE... My sole criticism of the COS sale is as follows: unknowingly wondering into the full-price section makes me feel like I'm being taunted – retail is cruel. One person who doesn't really 'get' COS is my boyfriend. To him, the pieces are 'all the same but slightly different' – a description easily applied to boobs, something everyone seems to adore in their unity and variety. So there. Shopping with a boyfriend is never too fun unless you happen to have snatched an international playboy millionaire metrosexual. COS must understand this; each store has a seating area with a few magazines – I take pleasure in dumping my boyfriend here, alongside small children and the elderly. Ah, COS: My favourite shop of all time (at the moment). promenade -spring
THE CHANGING FACE OF FASHION
It all started with Dior.
In March 2011, John Galliano was fired from his role as creative director of the Parisian luxury fashion house due to a series of anti-Semitic slurs. But after fifteen years of extravagant couture and theatrical designs, many wondered who, if anyone, could fill the large leopard print loafers left behind by this visionary designer. photo: interviewmagazine.com
fashion What ensued after Galliano’s dismissal was over a year of sartorial speculation. Red-lipped whispers discussed various designers eager to take the helm at Dior; ‘Is it Marc?’, ‘wait it’s definitely Kane’, ‘but Dior HQ sent flowers to Haider Ackermann...’. In April 2012, the incessant rumours were finally put to rest. Raf Simons was announced as Dior’s new creative director, his autumn/ winter 2012 collection for Jil Sander to be his final. What fuelled the rumour mill over that uncertain year was the worldwide shake-up of fashion’s top creative directors. Designers moved from house to house, making way for others to step up to vacant roles in a game of high fashion musical chairs. When Stefano Pilati confirmed his departure from Yves Saint Laurent after eight years as creative director, rumours were rife that Simons was destined to replace Pilati, with Pilati said to be headed towards an open door at Dior. But as we now know Simons snatched the top job at Dior, leaving Pilati to take up a position at Italian luxury house Ermenegildo Zegna. The new creative director at Yves Saint Laurent? Hedi Slimane, who has previously worked for Dior Homme. For Simons, the departure from Jil Sander made way for Sander to return to the helm of her eponymous label, no longer partly owned by Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli. Bertelli owned the majority of the company from 2000, but his clashes with Sander caused her to leave the label twice, in 2001 and 2004. Sander’s statement that ‘when I made the joint venture with Prada, I didn't take the time to understand whom I was marrying’ goes some way to explaining the termination of her hugely successful Uniqlo collaboration. It appears she was contacted ‘a while ago’ about returning to Jil Sander the label, but could not ‘respond immediately’ until she left her creative position at Uniqlo. But the question is, who jumped first? Did Sander take back the reigns because Simons left and opened himself up to a Dior opportunity, or did Sander reclaim her label causing Simons’ departure and giving Dior a lucky coup? While Simons’ name was one of the first to be rumoured, he was not the only. It has been speculated that Marc Jacobs was the front runner for the Dior job, prevented from taking up the position due to failed negotiations between Bernard Arnault, CEO of luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, and Sidney Toledano, Dior president. Jacobs reportedly wanted to bring his whole Louis Vuitton team
to Dior, transferring ‘the aesthetic from one house to another’. Louis Vuitton, one of LVMH’s most successful companies, also lacked a suitable candidate to replace Jacobs if he did leave. Jacobs says ‘it's a great honour to be considered...but I am very happy to be here. There is so much more left to do [at Louis Vuitton]’. On the subject of whether declining Dior was his decision, Jacobs adds ‘well… it's a little bit more complicated than that…but we agreed that it was probably best for everyone’. Other designers and fashion houses parting ways include Christopher Kane, mutually agreeing to leave Versace Versus as an overhaul of the label aims to cease showing seasonal collections. Therefore no designer is set to replace Kane, instead Donatella Versace will collaborate with emerging designers and creative talents ‘from different walks of life’ in a ‘major shake-up of the fashion world’s rules’. With all this extra time on his hands, it is no wonder Kane was identified as a likely candidate for Balenciaga after Nicolas Ghesquière ended a wildly successful fifteen year position at the French fashion house. While at the time of going to press it was not yet clear where Ghesquière would go next, New York designer Alexander Wang has been confirmed as landing the role of Balenciaga’s new creative director. The next few seasons will show us how these freshly inked contracts will affect the aesthetics of these well-established fashion houses. Versus may lose that sense of London quirkiness, Hedi Slimane has already pushed Yves Saint Laurent forward with a controversial rebrand, Alexander Wang could bring a new sense of cool, chic minimalism to Balenciaga and Jil Sander will bring her label back in line with her personal vision. But at Dior? Raf Simons looks set to bring about a new, more visible era for the Dior woman. ‘Dior’s ultimate obsession is that he wanted [women] to wear [the clothes]’ he told Vogue, explicitly indicating a move away from Galliano’s theatrics. His main aim is to make the Dior woman recognisable, just as the Chanel woman is by her scent alone. Nothing is forever in fashion. Trends come and go, designers are in and then they’re out. The pace of this industry will never slow down, but change is what fashion is all about. As the new generation of creative directors get to grips with a new house and all its history, we could bear witness to a new era and a new look on the catwalk. -Isabella Silvers promenade -spring
Backstage Confidential VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL - SS13 On 16th September I had the privilege of working backstage for Vivienne Westwood. Here is my VIP recount of the day.
I’m lost. Good start. Running around Westminster in my vintage Caroline Charles dress and patent Westwood bag, I’m feeling fabulous but flustered, and more than a little thankful that I wore flats.
The Foreign office is majestic. There are people everywhere darting about like industrious ants holding clipboards, cameras, chairs and other purposeful looking items. I put on my ‘so non-plussed’ poker face while taking sideways sneaky peaks at the evolving runway.
11.31am After dashing for directions I’m finally outside the Foreign Office with my fellow dresser comrades - a monochrome uniformed coterie of inert interns, some shifting excitedly from foot to foot, others poised, nonchalantly smoking cigarettes. We each get a backstage pass and are escorted inside. promenade -spring
12.16pm After waiting for what seems an eternity we are herded into the backstage area. The main room is an opulent affair, all gilded lofty ceilings and rails of clothes arranged in an orderly fashion, each featuring a model’s name and photo. photos: all from viviennewestwood.co.uk
After a quick group briefing we are told to go and stand by a model. Cue madness. Everyone wants the Charlotte Frees and Alice Dellals, so they lunge, in the most faux-professional manner they can muster, at the rails. I’m not so ruthless and for a brief moment panic and assume I’ve blown it. Imagine going home to tell my eager intimates that I dressed no model; I’d stood and steamed jackets or sat and rolled socks!
Tian comes back from makeup, all Warhol pink face and red lips. I help her into her outfit, a red batwing sleeve zipped rain jacket and matching full 50’s skirt, with lilac metallic boots (I was so pleased to find lilac, my favourite colour, is still deemed worthy of the catwalk after the 2012 spring pastel explosion).
12.47pm After a dire two minutes I obtain a model and my first sighting of the queen of far-out fashion herself, Vivienne Westwood!
12.50pm Dame Viv is right next to me. I am applying my stealthiest eavesdropping skills as she casually chats to her cohorts about cups of tea and how nice it is in Wales. Wearing a masculine structured shirt, pencil skirt and the most insane 70’s chunky crocodile platforms, all my fashion birthdays have come at once. Despite the kooky ensemble she seems so normal.
1.05PM My model arrives. Tian Yi:
1.49pm Major drama with the lilac boots. Tian’s feet will NOT go in, she sends me for socks. Not the easiest to find with all the commotion. Picture me running around like a headless chicken while Tian shouts ‘SOCKS’ urgently from somewhere yonder.
1.55pm Eventually, socks in hand, I try to find Tian, but at five foot four I’m finding it difficult to spot her amongst the shock of six-foot-something beauties milling around. Finally, socks and shoes on, Tian and her entourage walk out the door and on to the catwalk.
2.00pm Commence catwalk action. Bedlam breaks loose, press are swarming everywhere (I get papped for my outfit, so thrilled!), then it is over in a flash. I help Tian change and she rushes off to wherever it is that supermodels flit to.
2.45pm After tidying and carrying garment bags to the vans, I have my favourite moment of the day. Providing a group of smoking models my lighter, I cheekily ask for a photo. They are happy to oblige and Charlotte Free even tells me she loves my hair (OMG CHARLOTTE FREE LIKES MY HAIR!). We have a laugh and a picture and then off I go to catch the train home, feeling fatigued but fabulous.
I put those clothes on her! Her website is: models.com/models/tian-yi (Check her out, she’s done various Vogues and is b-e-a-utiful!)
-eleanor pierpoint promenade -spring
What’s that Jacket,
MARGIELA? H&M is dominating the high-street market with its continuous designer collaborations, keeping shoppers flocking to stores to get a piece of the action - not only to wear, but to commemorate an inspiring moment in fashion history which is unlikely to be seen again. The designer of choice sets the tone for each year – Stella McCartney marked the desire for the androgynous blazer, while Lanvin’s collection for the Swedish brand saw the celebration of femininity in all of its cocktail dress glory. Marni’s 2012 collection celebrated our love of prints, prints, prints! So which came first, the trend or the brand? This question is a bit like the chicken and the egg, but regardless of whether H&M chose fashion brand Maison Martin Margiela to mark our 2012 because of our appetite for edgy cuts, baggier, less symmetrical fits and darker, moodier colour palettes or whether the media coverage of the designer collaboration got us so excited that we had no choice but to lap it up, hoards of us were up at the crack of dawn waiting for the doors to be opened, myself included. Okay, so I may have exaggerated a little with the ‘crack of dawn’, but you get the picture. I, with my two fashion loving sisters, were at Selfridges, wristbands on, blogging and tweeting, earlier than I can remember having been up in a while and we were still only the fifth group to be let in. The routine was militant, lead by qualified security experts who, the previous evening, had guarded the Twilight cast at their premier. Each item in the 106 piece collection, consisting of womenswear, menswear and accessories, was a remake of an item from the Margiela archives, marked with what collection each was from. This fact is exciting promenade -spring
enough to attract fashion lovers, as well as reviews that the quality was fantastic – these items seemed to be real Margiela at about a 10th of the price. However, when the time came for us to make our move, I raided the rails to find each product unsatisfactory. Although the ‘quality’ in terms of fabrics was remarkable, with the leather trousers soft as butter and the cashmere jumpers as good as luxury brands, I was disappointed. There seemed to be something missing. The cuts were edgy, as the Margiela brand always promises, but there appeared to be a lack of attention to detail, the fits just not working. Things were unflattering; they fit in awkward places and really didn’t in others. It was almost as if they were trying too hard to be ‘different’, but I have to ask, who does that cater to? I wasn’t sure that the swampy shapes worked, overwhelming in all the wrong places and the tighter pieces accentuating all the wrong things. It was interesting to go with two other people with very different body types, each finding problems with fit. Despite all this, I bought something (which I adore!), my sisters bought something and all the ‘good stuff ’ sold out by 11am. Maybe I’m just too fussy; maybe my expectations were simply too high or maybe I’m just grumpy because those leather drainpipe trousers I so desperately coveted over that last month made me look fat. Whatever it was, it didn’t stop shoppers, or myself for that matter, from drooling with desire. The moral of my tale? Vivre les designer collabs! I think they’re exciting and keep the fashion world fresh, encapsulating a moment. Plus, there’s always one thing you’ve just got to have!
High Fashion Model Renske Mcfarlane Talks ‘Why Ethical Fashion?’ ‘FAIR’, read the shop sign. What ran through my mind? Fair trade, fair materials, fair prices, fair employers, fair conditions and, most importantly, fair lives. Inside the shop was a welcoming array of beautiful and, above all, highly ethical fashion pieces. Sat behind the desk was Renske Mcfarlane, with an even more welcoming smile. It was obvious to me that she was a model; not just a clothes model, but also a role model. She looked effortlessly at home amongst the ethical clothes and accessories, and at once I knew that I was in the right place to answer my burning question - ‘Why ethical fashion?’ Have you ever thought about where the clothes you wear come from? Who made them and how ethical they are? Fair-trade clothing is not something that is hugely publicised, and for some it only becomes an promenade -spring
issue once you are conscious of the facts. Renske Mcfarlane, a fashion model for Elite, found her ethical conscience by learning about the hard, harsh facts of mass production at university. Fashion was an unexpected turn in her life, which became an outlet for her growing awareness of environmental issues. After studying Development and Anthropology at the University of Sussex, Renske’s passion for the environment was expressed by setting up an eco-fashion show through the Environmental Society. She wanted to prove that you could make a point and evoke interest by doing something cool with it, doing something exciting that grasped people’s attention. With fashion media so influential, many would think that it would be a priority to promote these issues, increasing the awareness of fair-trade.
fashion However, Renske suggests ‘It is difficult to educate without lecturing’, and it is even more difficult to compromise what you wear, to still look good while maintaining ethical fashion. Renske admits ‘I wouldn’t buy ethical if it wasn’t fashionable’. However difficult it is to admit, she’s right. I wouldn’t, nor would the majority. Ethical fashion is difficult. Compromise is difficult. But we do need to be educated. So where can we go to satisfy our craving for beautiful brands and high or trendy fashion without stamping all over the world with a big, guilty, unethically booted footprint?
In Vietnam, a worker is paid a measly 5p to make a t-shirt
Renske has already found the answer right here in Brighton. The FAIR shop on Queens Street has some amazing items. Looking around the shop I immediately fell in love with a hand knitted wool cardigan, with two hedgehogs and all over heart stitch design. I noticed Renske was wearing a stunning art-deco inspired two-layer statement necklace, with a hand beaten silver plate and brass pendant on a long chain. She informed me that it was produced by Bombolulu Workshops, who support people with disabilities to become self-reliant and fully integrated members of their communities. In this increasingly environmentally conscious world, why should it be so hard to be involved? With too little publicity, in my opinion, will ethical fashion be a thing of the future? ‘It should be more political’ says Renske, as she points out to me that it is still a matter of our own personal choice, when really ‘it should be the norm’. She informed me that $4.5 trillion is imported in fashion product, but barely any of this
all available at thefairshop.co.uk or instore
is fair-trade. In Vietnam, a worker is paid a measly 5p to make a t-shirt. Renske proposes that if we increased their payment to just 10p, it would barely affect us, yet it would double their wage. The impact this could have on their lives, the development of Vietnam and other developing countries could be huge. I tackled Renske with the question on every tight-pocketed students mind - how easy is it to buy ethical clothing on a skimpy student budget? She assured me that ‘It’s getting easier!’ High-street shops like H&M are among the best at using organic cottons and being ethically sound. This fills me with relief after my indulgent high-street spending sprees. H&M prices are ideal for students and, as it is somewhere we already shop, it couldn’t be easier to go ethical. More good news – ASOS has their very own ‘green room’, which when combined with student discount makes us some happy ethical shoppers. But as Renske expressed, ethical fashion is still not widespread. If we want to be conscious, we have to be more aware. This may call for spending more, particularly if we fall in love with the beautiful ethical ranges out there. Renske feels that ‘spending a little extra is worth it’, both for the quality of clothing and for the knowledge that you’re doing some good. Living in or around Brighton, the city with the largest Green Party, is ideal for finding that perfect ethical purchase; I encourage you to discover FAIR and fall in love with ethical fashion! We can’t change the world. We can’t always find ethical alternatives. But Renske remains refreshingly upbeat and positive, as should we, that to know that we are trying is good enough. Check out the Fair Shop in Brighton, Queens Street. Or visit http://thefairshop.co.uk/online-shop/ -ZOE KILLINGBECK
CONFESSIONS Want to know a secret? I don't really 'get' fashion bloggers: it's like we've fallen out of love and now I just don't know them anymore! Well, I still dig some of their outfits but that's just aesthetics, isn't it? I love the internet! I love fashion! So why not fashion bloggers? I don't know, but here are a few that annoy me...
†The Spoilt Blogger†
Now I have no problem with girls who have nice things – I moonlight as one occasionally - it's just that feeling I get when a girl seems to live off her parents’ money: namely, jealousy. It's still annoying – I save up for my designer BS. Naturally, these bloggers probably aren't the type to hold formal employment; it's not like they need a real job and, consequently, their blogs are always the best: no (real) work equals more time to swan around cosmopolitan cities having their photos taken in fabulous outfits. I applaud their consumerist chutzpah, if nothing else.
†The Twee Blogger†
†The Moany Blogger†
What this lot lack in a valid Net-a-Porter order history, they make up for in unadulterated whining. A lot of it. So much so that their laptops should be confiscated. There are interns who relate what we already know: the fashion industry is tough and you're lucky to get paid expenses, if anything; while others chastise the world for how bad it has made them feel as a skinny person – who says fat girls should have all the self-pity? They also hate people like me, they’re like that So Solid Crew song: Haters.
†The Poser Blogger†
I often think what I could have been if my former Do you have a problem with people that are a lityears spent on the internet had been productive... A tle bit too nice? I do. Twee bloggers love banging on fashion blogger?! Well, it would have been cool to about how ‘lovely’ everything is: their clothes, their have been the first (I'm looking at you, Susie Bubble) boyfriend, their (fellow blogger) friends, their excur- but there was always going to be something stopping sions... Hell, they probably have ‘lovely’ periods with me: the photos. I don't know how accommodat‘lovely’ sanitary towels with little buttoned-up coling your loved ones are of your ambitions, but if I lars and bowler hats – blogger style! Twee bloggers ever asked mine to 'take some photos of me for my always acknowledge their followers – in an indeciblog', I would be scoffed at. Self-portraiture wouldn't pherable font, they’re lucky we live in a world where really do it for me either – I've always seen it as the the thought counts – because who would they be one-handed self-loving of the photography world: without them? Just a lonely girl who likes clothes and done best in private, best kept in private (unless you is a dab hand at HTML, that’s who! Still, you always happen to be at an Ann Summers party). Fashion wish they’d say something controversial like: ‘I don’t bloggers don't have these types of insecurities and for actually like Monki!’ or ‘I think I might have thrush’. that I am glad – outfit posts are my favourite! Ladies, BE REAL. Fashion bloggers, you are my split ends: I can't stop harassing you but I shall miss you when you're gone. -HEATHER
VINTAGE FASHION Everybody knows that fashion can be fickle. Trends come and go quicker than you can get into Topshop, and I know very few people who can fund a full new wardrobe every season. That’s why I love vintage clothing- there’s nothing more satisfying when it comes to shopping than finding a timeless item. Something you’ll love forever and will outlast the next season’s big trends. Vintage always makes more of an impact- remember when Natalie Portman wore 1954 vintage Dior to 2012’s Oscars? So many dresses, so many celebrities, but this was the one that caused the most excitement. It’s simple really, no-one wants to be wearing the same as anyone else. And who could resist the allure of clothing from eras gone by, during which many of the biggest fashion houses were born? With the first Dior show in 1947, the house of Givenchy opening in 1952, along with Chanel’s return to fashion in 1954 it’s easy to see why these were the golden years for fashion. Searching for good vintage pieces can sometimes feel like hard work with few results, but I believe the key is to look for something you love, not something that’s currently on trend; vintage is about lasting style, not fads. Take the fifties full skirt - flattering, elegant and the epitome of femininity- what’s not to love? Often the problem with one off items is knowing what to wear them with; but a full skirt is incredibly versatile, easily dressed up with a silky blouse or down with a t-shirt and boots. In the 21st century, where it’s common place to see girls in hotpants or short skirts, the full skirt offers a demure kind of sexy, a classic beauty.
a cropped faux fur jacket can give a vintage look a modern twist. Alternatively, try a brown fur coat for old fashioned elegance. In the colder months, a fur coat is the vintage piece to have. The good news for vintage lovers is that high quality vintage clothing is becoming more accessible thanks to the internet. Sites like ASOS Marketplace and eBay make shopping possible without even putting down your cuppa. It also makes it much easier to find exactly what you’re looking for, by refining searches and selecting the colour, size and era of your desired item- no more sifting through messy shop rails! Fashion will always be in love with the past, and its history will last. So if you buy anything this season, make it a timeless vintage piece you can love forever. You don’t even need to feel guilty - think of it as a unique investment. -ROSIE GILBERTSON
Common myths about vintage fashion which frequently get bandied about include ‘the clothes won’t fit’ (not every item of clothing was made for petite women) or ‘the clothes won’t last’ (they will; they already have and they’re often better made than much of today’s mass produce). Often when it comes to vintage, the trick is not to see a stereotype. I’m sure you can all picture a crazy old cat lady in a long, worn out fur coat, but fur (and I mean faux) can be glamorous and fun, and shouldn’t be dismissed too quickly. Black fur goes with most things and Madam Popoff - 80’s studded dress available on ASOS Marketplace £50
Faux fur seems to be the Britsâ€™ weapon of choice against the shivers!
Leggings and studded boots and shoes are a major trend in the Italian capital at the moment!
On the Promenade: Street Style in Brighton & Rome Baby it’s oh so cold outside… be it Italy or England! Despite the chill, I’ve been wandering around Brighton’s North Lanes and Via dei Condotti, Rome’s most expensive shopping street, snapping the most stylish guys and gals. Take a look at how the Italians and the Brits coped with the cold season. -CAMILLA DI RENZO promenade -spring
ABOUT A BOY photo: etc magazine
saac Oâ€™Riordan is not your average teenage boy. At the grand old age of 14, he has organised two catwalk shows, created 42 individually and intricately made pieces, and has set the Brighton fashion scene alight before even starting his GCSEs. Isaac has done all this while juggling school life and the ups and downs of becoming a teenager and having Aspergers syndrome, an autistic spectrum disorder. But when I go to meet him and his father John in Falmer bar, this does not seem to hold him back in any way. Speaking with confidence and passion about his designs, fashion-forward Isaac shows me pictures on his iPhone from his recent catwalk show held at Woodland Meads School in Burgess Hill, a huge success from which he raised ÂŁ612 for charity. His unique designs showcase his fresh creative talent, originality and drive that many fashion students twice his age cannot muster; I speak to Isaac about his inspirations and what the future holds...
fashion When did you first realise that fashion was your passion? I didn’t have a particular interest in fashion until my cousin Jodie Tucker won the ‘Face of Brighton’ competition. Watching her in the show sparked my passion and I started designing when I was 13. Who and what inspires you the most? A lot of different things, I love Alexander McQueen, his catwalk shows and collections are mad, I especially love his armadillo shoes. His aesthetic really influences me. Lady Gaga is a huge inspiration to me, I love her style and that she breaks boundaries in fashion. My most recent collection was inspired by nature; I watched lots of modern fairytales films and TV programmes, like ‘Once Upon a Time’ and ‘Snow White and the Huntsmen’ to get ideas. My favourite eras are the 20s, 30s and 60s, I love retro but I try and step away from these to be more different and not follow them too literally. I am constantly looking for new inspiration.
I watched lots of modern fairytales films and TV programmes, like ‘Once Upon a Time’ and ‘Snow White and the Huntsmen’ to get ideas.
Mum; she taught me how to sew when I was 4! My school is very supportive of it and treat interviews and anything fashion related I do as work experience because of my fashion and textile design course.
...don’t let a disability hold you back as it doesn’t need to! What was your favourite piece from your new collection? The lace and wool ‘Dark Queen’ dress with a big collar and headpiece embroidered with spikes and skulls, and my dress made entirely of magazines! Where do you see yourself in 5 years time? Designing in some kind of way, anything to do with fashion and design will make me happy and hopefully that will lead onto something bigger! So what’s next, will we see another catwalk collection next year? I’m going to carry on designing but won’t be doing another catwalk show for the time being, I’m going to focus on college and doing my GCSEs. Eventually I want to get into the London scene and get contacts with magazines like Elle and Vogue. The main thing I want to improve is my technical ability and would love to find a mentor who can help me do this.
Is there a particular person you would like to design for? Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Florence Welch from Florence and the Machine; their styles are really exciting and different.
What advice can you give to those wanting to get into the fashion industry? Don’t be shy and just do what you want to do. Try and get it out there as much as possible, and don’t let a disability hold you back as it doesn’t need to!
Have you faced any challenges being so young entering the fashion world? I think actually my age has helped me with what I want to do. I have received a lot of media interest because of my age, my passion for designing and my special needs. In the next few months we are approaching magazines and London Fashion Week, I know it is a fiercely competitive industry but I have unique angles that will hopefully stand me in good stead, so it will be interesting to see what will happen!
This is definitely true for Isaac, who has built up confidence through pursuing the things he loves. His determination and passion is inspiring. His father John sums this up ‘I am very proud of Isaac, I am so pleased that his high quality designs have impressed so many people with their originality and style and have boosted his self esteem after he had so many difficulties’. This boy wonder is definitely one to watch for the fashion future!
How have you juggled school life while planning and designing a fashion show? In any spare time I start drawing and designing, and when I get home I sit down and make them with my
- Zoe Killingbeck
how to make your own removable peter-pan colar
You will need:
•Fabric, any colour or pattern you want •2 pieces of ribbon, any length and thickness •Collar template (print from the internet or measure and draw one) •Pins •Needle and thread •Sewing machine •Scissors
Fold your fabric in half and attach the template onto the fold line, pin template to the fabric. promenade -spring
On a flat surface, cut round the template.
Repeat step 2 for the lining. Unfold both the collar and the lining.
Place the front side of the collar and lining together (pattern side facing inwards). Pin together.
Sew the 2 pieces together with a straight stitch, leave a 5cm gap in the stitch (to turn the right way round)
Place each ribbon between the fabric, with the end pinned on to the inner corners of the collar (make sure that the rest of the ribbon lies loose inside the fabric and will not be stitched over).
Iron the finished collar.
Pull the fabric through the gap so that it is the right way round and the stitch is facing inwards. Tip: use the blunt end of a pen to push the fabric into shape.
With a needle and thread stitch up the gap. Tip: use the invisible stitch technique, hiding the stitch in the fold of the fabric
Wear it and look gorgeous!
Go bold or go home. Promenade took a roadtrip to the desolate outskirts of Brighton, the now derelict open air swimming pool known as Black Rock. This safe haven for graffiti lovers adorns every inch of space in a spectrum of colour. This is the perfect backdrop to set the scene for this seasonâ€™s hottest trends which will be sure to catch our attention in the coming season. Our beautiful models SongI, Bertie and Phoebe take centre stage in colour popping brights, nouvelle orientalism, animal motifs, triple denim, summer leather, an explosion of eccentric prints and all over florals providing you with a clash overload to update and brighten up your wardrobe to fight against the British gloom taking you into spring/ summer 2013 with a BANG.
Photographer: Ruby Stone-Sharp Assistant Photographer: Charlotte Harding Words: Charlotte Harding Stylists: Charlotte Harding & Kate Eringer Models: Song-I Sheba, Bertie Vermeir & Phoebe Weinstein
Feline safari; leopard print gets a new leash of life, Kenzo demonstrates how to utilise that urban jungle palette. Phoebe wears leopard print bra top, Urban Outfitters. Yellow skirt, Opening Ceremony. Leopard print turban, Beyond Retro. Gold belt (worn as necklace), Beyond Retro.
Bare your all in the latest update to underwear as outerwear. Pair with a high-waisted pencil skirt for a more understated look; Antonio Marras & Philosophy show you how. Bertie wears red varsity jacket, vintage. Floral crop top, Preen by Thorton Bregazzi. Nude control pants, Marks and Spencer. Song-I wears neon yellow bra top, H & M. Floral sheer shirt, Zara. Vintage Indian bloomers. Studded pink trainers, Gienchi.
Fluro florals are in full bloom and will give you a spring in your step. Preen and Robert Cavalli have caught on why havenâ€™t you. Donâ€™t be a wallflower. Song-I wears blue floral t-shirt, JW Anderson for Topshop. Floral dress, Opening Ceremony.
Letâ€™s get graphic. Mary Katrantzou instructs you experiment with a plethora of patterns, shapes and colours. Phoebe wears print top & shorts, River Island. Belt, Beyond Retro.
Feline safari; leopard print gets a new leash of life, Kenzo demonstrates how to utilise that urban jungle palette. Phoebe wears leopard print bra top, Urban Outfitters. Yellow skirt, Opening Ceremony. Leopard print turban, Beyond Retro. Gold belt (worn as necklace), Beyond Retro
Printing in process, Moschino and Peter Pilotto say the bolder the better, what are you waiting for? Phoebe wears Green print parka dress, Marni for H & M. White trainers, Converse. Song-I wears zig-zag print leotard, Urban Outfitters. Green print trousers, Marni for H & M. Black boots, Topshop.
Jump aboard the orient express with our modern update of the silk adorned geisha. Think rich colours, sumptuous fabrics and the enigma of the East with a Western twist.
Take a note from the Prada & Etro notebook. Song-I wears neon green and white silk dress, Beyond Retro. Camouflage trainers, Converse. Bertie wears red silk dress & red beret, Beyond Retro. White trainers, Converse.
Z is for Zoology, grab anything decked out with a mammal, fish or invertebrate and do it like they do on the discovery channel. Warning, gone are the days of â€˜the animal sweaterâ€™ synonymous with crazy old cat ladies, the fashion set have hijacked this trend and we advise you do to. Do it day to day with Markus Lupfer or be even more daring with the advice of new label MSGM. Bertie wears turtle print t shirt & zebra print skirt, JW Anderson for Topshop. Belt , Topshop. Jewellery, models own.
Leather and denim in summer? Yes! Who said leather was just for winter? Take off those tights and let your favourite winter leathers, previously locked away in the depths of your wardrobe, carry you through all year long a la Balmain & Dsquared runway looks s/s â€™13. Song-I wears blue fringed suede jacket, white leather bra top and black leather shorts, all Beyond Retro. Bertie wears Denim jacket, Levi. Denim leotard, Opening Ceremony. Denim skirt, Whistles. Necklace, ASOS.
Leather and denim in summer? Yes! Take off those tights and let your favourite winter leathers, previously locked away in the depths of your wardrobe, carry you through all year long a la Balmain & Dsquared runway looks s/s â€™13. Song-I wears blue fringed suede jacket, white leather bra top and black leather shorts, all Beyond Retro. Bertie wears Denim jacket, Levi. Denim leotard, Opening Ceremony. Denim skirt, Whistles. Necklace, ASOS.
Colour POP- bare those brights with a f~#! off 90s inspired attitude and let House of Holland, Mark Fast and Gucci inspire you. Bertie wears Dress, Missoni. Song-I wears Coral crop top, The Kooples. Fluffy pink bolero, Beyond Retro. Pink shorts, Marni for H & M. Pink studded trainers, Gienchi. Phoebe wears yellow skirt, Zimmerman. Neon orange playsuit, Beyond Retro. Platform snakeskin trainers, Urban Outfitters.
Amarni Exchange £145
J.W. Anderson £320
Dr Martens £200
‘Money can’t buy happiness, but I’d rather cry in a Ferrari’
OR SPEND IT ON CLOTHES
hen people say ‘I can’t afford it’, it often hides the truth that they can afford it, but have decided not to. I literally can’t afford a flat in New York, but I can afford a pair of John Lobb loafers – although buying a pair would mean that I’d be eating porridge three meals a day for the rest of term. The big question, however, is this: Once you’ve worked out that you’ve got money left over after eating and sleeping, how do you work out if your must-buy item is worth spending your hard earned (yes, dealing with the Student Loans Company counts as work) money on? How do you work out if the item passes the L’Oreal test - how do you know if it’s worth it? Spend money on something you’ll wear a lot. This may seem obvious, but whenever student loan day rolls around I find myself sorely tempted to head to D&G and blow the lot on a dinner jacket – hardly an item of clothing that gets lots of wear. On the other hand, a winter coat that you can throw on over anything most days is a good example of a decent investment. Be it made of sheepskin or cashmere, it’s worth spending more on something that goes with everything.
It should have lasting power - both in terms of quality and style. Expensive clothes and accessories should be well made and become better with age, like a leather satchel, or age gracefully, becoming ‘classic’ rather than ‘dated’. You should be able to see yourself wearing whatever it is in a number of years time. Don’t just buy labels. Spending more should result in a markedly better product. A well cut jacket from a decent designer tends to be better than one from Topman, and as such is a good investment. However, anyone who spends more than a tenner on a pair of boxers is a fool. Fifty quid pants from Armani won’t make you James Bond, they merely mark you as someone who can’t spend properly. Your pants don’t do any better at being pants just because they’re expensive. Similarly, if you decide to spend £300 on a watch, you should be sure that it’s six times better than a £50 watch, or at least if it isn’t, that it will make you six times as happy. So while these may be tough economic times, times are always tougher for students. Spend wisely! -ABRAHAM BALDRY
Review: Saint Laurent Spring/ Summer 2013 The designer roundabout of the past few seasons made Spring/Summer 2013 a season to watch. New aesthetics, new creative visions and new designs were showcased in the city of love. But while a new collection itself is enough to attract international attention, Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent Paris showed there was no love lost between him and his critics in a well publicised war of words. The fashion world loves a good spat, and this one has not disappointed. Hedi Slimane, a new designer at Saint Laurent who has already caused quite a stir with his rebranding of the age-old label, had a very public falling out with New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn. She wasn’t invited to the catwalk, and described his collection as ‘frozen, ‘the clothes of someone disconnected from the fashion of the past several years’. He described her as a ‘schoolyard bully’. A fair comment perhaps, considering Slimane has focused on fashion photography rather than design for the past five years. This rather ugly end to Paris fashion week detracted attention from what is, at its heart, a well presented collection of clothing. There are echoes of YSL’s classic styling, however the collection is 100% Slimane: the skinny, close fitting jackets that characterised his time at Dior make repeated appearances, although he keeps things interesting with shiny red oxblood blazers and black and white fine polka dot shirts. GQ described his leatherwear as ‘perfect’. View the collection at www.ysl.com and judge for yourself. Whose side are you on? -ABRAHAM BALDRY
photo: saint laurent
Meggings: Get On Board?
One of last year’s biggest trends, for better or worse, was the rise of the jegging: thick matte tights, sometimes with printed jean pockets (hence jeans + leggings = jeggings). But this year, we may see a mculing development of the trend: MEGGINGS (men + leggings = meggings. Duh.). Although Alexander McQueen and Marni put meggings on the catwalk as early as 2007, and despite Russell Brand rocking them for years, so far they haven’t taken off on the high street. This is set to change. New York, home of salt beef bagels, yellow cabs, and bleeding edge menswear, has been taken by storm by men in tights. If this trend crosses the channel, 2013 could be the year that meggings hit the mainstream UK market. I, for one, think this trend is nothing but a good thing. Men’s skinny jeans have been getting skinnier, to the point that evolution into leggings for dudes seems the only logical progression. They’re warm and stylish, assuming of course that you’ve got the legs for them. Paired with a baggy cardigan and combat boots, or a (sufficiently long) pea coat, or a white long strap tank top in warmer weather, I can see them adding a certain panache to an outfit. Then again, this might mark the high point of a slippery slope towards tight fitting lycra cycling shorts as acceptable casualware. But this seems unlikely. Megging up, lads, these tights might just be here to stay. Left to right: Horace Leggins, Horace leggings, Uniqlo warm leggings
On the 28th of October 2012, two young city workers wore ill fitting female leggings to a fancy dress party in North London. These two individuals, alongside another mutual friend have now tasked themselves with designing, manufacturing and selling male leggings to the fashion conscious gentleman through their website and ground breaking stall on Brick Lane Market in East London. Since rapidly selling out of their first range of leggings, sTitch is proud to announce that its exciting new collection will be unveiled within the next two weeks alongside a sleek new website.
To pre-order a pair and to find out more Like us on Facebook or Follow us on Twitter; Facebook.com/stitchleggings @stitchleggings Stall on Brick Lane, London
1920’s Beauty Revival: Sussex Fashion Society: Charity Fashion Show
Revitalising the glamorous 1920’s structured waves and flapper girl berry lips for a modern beauty look was the final touch to Sussex Fashion Society’s charity fashion show, where dark shadowed eyes and glittering sequins brought to life a long gone era. Responsible for the stunning makeup creations were graduates from the Davinia Fermi Makeup Academy. ‘The makeup had to work with clothes in the fashion show and complete the whole look’, explained Laura Hamilton, a member of the DFMA team. ‘Bebe Joe created a classic 1920's look interpreting a smoky eye, matte complexion and dark lip. The main inspirations were the clothes and overall style of the era’.
“The main inspirations were the clothes and the overall style of the era” promenade -spring
‘The focus of the look was the statement smoky eye, using grey and black eye shadows, thick black liner and big false lashes. We also used gold sequins to add to the 1920's glamour. With the lips, we used a classic Clara Bow shape in dark red and purple shades’. The talented makeup artists studied film and fashion makeup, so were well equipped to craft a face to be flashed down the runway. Laura went on to say ‘the amount of looks that can be created with makeup is amazing. Trying to give each model a similar look but still keep them unique was the most challenging part of the project. We worked as a team to keep each model looking flawless and unique with the same 1920's sparkle’. For DFMA enquiries, contact Laura Hamilton at firstname.lastname@example.org -HELEN LOUISE ROBERTS
Top: Vogue inspiration board; top right: model shoot; bottom: inspiration, opposite: progress of makeup
Is Your Face a Façade? a cosmetic free weekend
I only really stepped back to consider how I felt about rubbing colored gunge all over my face when I came to university and started living with boys. The abnormality of the concept was strikingly obvious after seeing the horror on the faces of my male housemates when my female housemate declared she was off to ‘put her face on’. It’s easy to dismiss the depth behind it all. Maybe it’s because putting makeup on can seem a ‘chore’ at times. We so easily brush past questions like ‘Why do you wear makeup?’ - ‘I don’t know, I just do’ is the short, easy answer. I never considered, scrubbing the last black smudge from my eyes at night, the scale of our routines. Beauty products are as old as the pyramids, riddled with cultural significances, scooping hundreds of billions of pounds out of our global pockets every single year. But zoom in on the map a little; each of us has a different routine and different relationship with makeup.
Frequently, females are criticised for wearing makeup as a ‘mask’, or pitied for the very same reason. Your makeup bag could be your tool for confidence: enhancing what you’re happy with, hiding what you’re not. A rejection of makeup is just as much of a statement, a dismissal of being ‘girlie’, mascara free eyes rolling at that girl wearing fake eyelashes at the gym. We don’t say it about our makeup, but like our ‘binge drinking’ and chocolate pig-outs, shouldn’t our relationship with beauty be healthy? Wondering if I was clinging promenade -spring
too tightly to my foundation brush, I removed my war paint for the full weekend. I declared peace. At the time, I didn’t feel like I was learning much from a stint with bare cheeks but hindsight is a beautiful thing. I began, long bored by the simplicity of makeup wipes, by meeting my friend to borrow her new Lush facial cleanser. Four hours later, I dusted off my Neutrogena facial exfoliator. Within twelve, I was applying a facemask. Monday came and when I dabbed a bit of concealer on, I left the house and I felt nothing. The giddy flood of happiness came when I received post and opened it to find my new Liz Earle cleanser and tinted moisturiser (cue a nod of thanks to Student Loans Company for allowing me to buy over-priced skincare on a whim). A naked-faced weekend hadn’t changed how I felt towards all these lotions and potions. I realised that in this whole debate, the hidden edge to the sword is in beauty’s artistry. Beyond Retro hangs a print outside their fitting rooms reading ‘Forget the rules, if it makes you happy, wear it!’ Let’s take this and apply it to our faces in a rainbow of colour, gels, creams, powders and sprays. No matter how little you consider it so, your choice of makeup is an extension of your taste; what inspires you, and how you see yourself overall. The ‘chore’ of doing one’s face should be revived, for fun and experimentation, like little girls at a dressing table. To my friends’ amusement, I rocked up to the campus Co-Op wearing two mis-matched shirts, an old pair of shorts and a top-knot last night. But that’s not the joke. I had excitedly decided the new Kate Moss for Rimmel lipstick I had just bought could not wait for a night-out to be applied. I MUST wear it - in it’s deep plum red glory - to the shops. We’re young, embrace getting it wrong now. Wear it bolder, wear it thicker, stop, take it all off. After all, it’s up to you, and that’s the beauty of beauty.
THE LOOK: SPRING/SUMMER 2013 Photography: Malcolm Tam Models: Francesca Louise & Helen Louise Roberts Words: Helen Louise Roberts
T h e s w ing ing s i x t i e s are re v iv e d o n c e ag ain w it h f i l l e d in b row s , f li ck e d b l a ck l a sh lin e s an d p al e , m at t e li p s , a s s e e n at Marc Ja c ob s . Mi ch a el Ko r s u s e d a c ur v e d sh a d ow aro un d t h e e y e s o ck e t s t o c re ate a s u lt r y l o o k .
3 O n e f o r t h e re al g l am o ur p u s s e s o ut t h e re . D i o r u s e d j e w el c o l o ure d sh a d ow s un d e r
re al j e w el s o n e y eli d s f o r a g l am o ro u s b ut e d g y l o o k , w hi l e C h an el w e nt f o r s p a c e ag e f ro s t y s i lv e r s . Ke e p at te nt i o n o n dram at i c , st r i king e y e s w it h a cl e an , f re sh f a c e .
L ow e r l a sh lining a c ro s s t h e c at w al k s g av e m o d el s a g r ung e e d g e . L anv in , D i an e v o n Fur s te nb e r g an d C hr i sto p h e r Kan e s m e are d d ar k b l a ck sh a d ow un d e r t h e l a sh lin e , w hi l e Stel l a Mc C ar t n e y u s e d an e m e ral d g re e n f o r a f re sh f e el .
Fo r s p r ing / s umm e r 2 0 1 3 , t h e c at w al k s t ur n e d a b lin d e y e to t h e t y p i c al p a stel s of s p r ing , in ste a d l o o king to t h e h e at of s umm e r f o r in s p irat i o n w it h v ib rant state m e nt lip s . Tak e in s p irat i o n f ro m Gi l e s an d o pt f o r a f u ch s i a p o ut , o r g o f o r a cl a s s i c re d . Bur b e r r yâ€™s r uby m at te lip st i ck m ak e s a m o d e r n , dram at i c state m e nt .
6 D o nn a Karan lin e d m o d el s li d s w it h r i ch f u ch s i a s to g iv e an un e x p e c te d p o p of c o l o ur t hi s s p r ing / s umm e r. B e s ure to lin e y o ur u p p e r l a sh e s an d u s e an in ky b l a ck m a s c ara to k e e p t hi s l o o k d e f in e d .
Skin Sensibility: 3 Steps to Beautiful Skin Our bodies are the only possession that we own from the day we enter the world until the day we leave. Modern day hectic lifestyles can lead us to neglect our most important belonging, our own skin. But small, simple things can breathe new life into your complexion. Follow Helen Louise Robert’s three steps to beautiful skin to keep your face looking fresh.
Look After Your Health
It’s been said before but I’ll say it again - drinking lots of water is key in clearing up our complexions. The human body is 70% water and it is recommended women drink about two litres a day. We are all guilty of not drinking enough water, but increasing our intake flushes out toxins and other impurities from our bodies, leaving skin purified.
Exercise, while not the most pleasurable activity, can be one of the most rewarding for your skin. Not only is it good for your overall health, but a faster heart beat pumps more oxygen around your body and can improve the appearance of skin’s surface. Less breakouts, a natural flush and an overall peachy complexion? What’s not to love.
Watch what you eat. While chocolate alone does not give you acne, a nutritionally balanced diet does benefit your skin. It has been suggested that a diet rich in vitamin C and low in unhealthy fats and refined carbohydrates can promote younger looking skin. So up your fruit intake, and put down the Dairy Milk. Those dark circles and irritating breakouts are often asignal that your body is tired and run down, so setting a solid sleep pattern should give your skin time to replenish itself. A good sleep regime, with a few exceptions of course, should stop nasty surprises when you catch yourself in the mirror after a night out. promenade -spring
Cleanse, tone and moisturise. A good cleansing routine is vital to keeping skin clean and clear. The three step routine clears pores and removes daily grime when done once or twice a day and after exercise. Be careful not to over-wash your skin, as this can encourage grease production and breakouts. Clinique’s 3 Step Solution can be matched to your skin type for best results.
Bad habits, and the worst of them all, smoking, wreak havoc on your complexion. Smoking decreases the blood flow to your skin, starving it of oxygen. Skin’s collagen and elastin are depleted with every drag, and as your skin loses strength and elasticity lines and wrinkles will appear from a young age. Put down the packet and perk up your complexion. Deadlines, break-ups and student finance can all lead to a stressful lifestyle which can also stress out your skin. Managing your worry levels can do wonders for your face, so try To Do lists, don’t take on too much and, most importantly, take time to enjoy yourself.
Reboot Your Beauty Routine
Two to three times a week, you should also be exfoliating to scrub away dead skin cells. Our skin completely sheds its surface every two to three weeks, but can end up clogged if not sloughed off. St. Ives Apricot Scrub is a gentle, natural, perfume free exfoliant that won’t aggravate your complexion. Choosing an oil based foundation for skin prone to excess shine can lead to unwanted acne. Speak to a beauty consultant at your local Boots or favourite brand store for advice and select a foundation labeled ‘oil-free’. Lancome’s range of oil-free foundations, Teint Idole, create a clear finish while reducing any unwanted shine. The most important part of your beauty regime should be to protect your skin from the sun. UV exposure over time can create age spots, wrinkles and, in the worse case, cancer. Although having a golden tan may seem appealing now, in the years to come you may regret your short lived glow. Choosing alternative tanning options without UV light will significantly reduce your risk of sun damage. St Tropez tanning products are second to none for a flawless sun-kissed finish. Say no to sunbeds, I urge you! We aren’t suggesting you hide in the shade the minute spring arrives, but using a light moisturiser or foundation with SPF 15 under your normal makeup will protect your precious skin.
Get Rid of Bad Habits
Research suggests that, on average, we touch our faces around sixteen times an hour. Bacteria accumulated on our fingers and palms are consistently smeared across our faces. But the solution is simple: wash your hands more and stop touching your face so much! We change our clothes everyday, so why not our pillow cases? Ok, maybe everyday is a bit impractical, but changing your pillowcase often will reduce the amount of bacteria rubbed back on to your skin when you sleep. The same goes for face towels and make up brushes.
HOW FAR IS TOO FAR?
Improvement; a concept with which we are all familiar, especially when it comes to the way we look. As a society, obsessing about body image, beauty products and fashion trends is something we excel at. This should come as no surprise - frequently in the media, it follows us almost everywhere we go. Whether we are aware of it or not, we are constantly presented with a barrage of opinions and ideals on what is beautiful. So how far are some of us willing to let our quest for beauty affect our lives? The idea of body improvement has become used as a selling point in the press. People will buy something if they think it will improve them in some way. Just look at common magazine articles - ‘How to Get a Bikini-Ready Body’ - which most likely include fitness tips, dieting advice and beauty must-buys. The initial premise of this article is not ridiculous; readers want to look nice, and they want magazines to tell them how. However, telling people how to change automatically insinuates that they need to. The same kind of appeal is used in advertising. On The Ellen Degeneres Show, actress and former anorexia sufferer Portia De Rossi summed up this selling technique and its harmful consequences: ‘They are always trying to sell us something; to elongate our legs, or dye our hair, or make ourselves look better. So it’s hard to just know that who we are is exactly what we’re supposed to be and how we’re supposed to look’. This attitude is the basis for the entire beauty industry - altering your appearance with the intention of looking ‘better’. It seems that we are always on the look out for new ways to alter ourselves, be this with a new tanning moisturiser, or even going under the knife. From 2010 to 2011, approximately 3370 liposuction procedures were carried out in the UK, and an incredible
450,000 operations are thought to be performed in the USA every year. Yet however extreme this procedure might seem to many, it pales in comparison to new and more unusual surgical requests popularised in the past couple of years. After the success of supermodels with prominent gaps between their front teeth, namely Lara Stone and Georgia May Jagger, it’s not hard to see where the inspiration for this new surgical procedure comes from. Incredibly, some women are willing to pay up to £1500 to create a gap in their teeth, something that is usually reversed through dental surgery. And there’s more. Asian Blepharoplasty, otherwise known as ‘double eyelid surgery’, has recently become popular among Asian women. This procedure sets out to give Asian women a crease in their eyelid, like Caucasian women, where they wouldn’t have one naturally. These surgeries are most common in Taiwan and South Korea, costing anywhere from £1500 to £3000. What does this say about the standards of female beauty all over the world? The double eyelid surgery has been a topic of much controversy, with some, such as author David Mura, arguing that it is ‘indoctrinated by white standards of beauty’. But with surgeries like this taking place so frequently, do we have to accept that the natural features of one person can be a fashion trend for another? Or could this be a slippery slope, the cross-cultural effects more alarming than we’d like to think? Maybe the demand for more extreme plastic surgery is a sign that we have already gone too far, pushing idealised images of beauty to diversely beautiful people. Perhaps instead people should be encouraged to appreciate their natural attributes, hopefully resulting in a curb of this dangerous attitude towards beauty. -ELLIE POINTING promenade -spring
‘IS YOUR LOVE BIG ENOUGH?’ There was big love for Lianne La Havas at Concorde 2 as she dazzled the audience with her beautiful vocals and charming personality. With a whirlwind set of breezy jazz, sweet soul and heartbreakers, La Havas certainly lived up to all of her recent acclaim. After an evening in her company, it is easy to understand the endorsement she has received from Stevie Wonder, why Prince wants to work with her, and why she may just be ‘the most striking voice since Adele’, according to The Telegraph. The Londoner’s eclectic mix of pop and soul instantly drew comparisons to Corinne Bailey Rae, but the release of her first two EPs Lost & Found and Live From LA proved that La Havas had something more than just a honey-sweet voice – something more like personality, passion, and pizazz. Once a backing vocalist for Paloma Faith, Lianne La Havas is now signed to Warner Bros Records, her popularity rocketing after her TV debut on Later... With Jools Holland.
La Havas has great stage presence. Although she may appear young and vulnerable at times, especially when recounting her heartbreak at the hands of her ex-boyfriend, she has a bubbly personality, a sparkling smile and down to earth shtick between songs. Fresh faced, almost always dressed in a cute shirt and poofy skirt ensemble, Lianne brings something truly unique to the stage. Lianne’s voice is mesmerising. She had the audience in the palm of her hand throughout the gig. With more upbeat songs like “Is Your Love Big Enough” and “Age”, Lianne radiated a warm energy and rocked to-and-fro behind her guitar, the audience bobbing along. But when she strips it back with the heartbreakingly honest “Gone”, she is a fragile young girl who has been broken into a million pieces. Every song is coloured with intense emotion and by the end of the gig, it feels like La Havas has exposed to us every side of her personality. With such a display of joviality and vulnerability, it’s hard not to fall a little bit in love with her, in a big way. -amy colville
DO YOU SING HER ‘NATIONAL ANTHEM’? Throughout the last year, the young demographic have all come to know, worship or loathe the icon and YouTube sensation that is Lana Del Rey. The 26 year old star came onto the scene with her music video montage ‘Video Games’. Thousands instantly adored her, myself included. Her sound, beauty and style captured a lost time so often unappreciated. Lana brought this back to today’s youth – a youth of video games, violence and a self-aware wit accomplished through intense boredom. Her music, lyrics and aesthetic persona, including styling and cinematography, are nostalgic, reminiscent of the 50s and 60s when the ‘American Dream’ was at the forefront of everyone’s mind. When a date consisted of riding on the handle bars of your love interest’s bike, as opposed to our current option of a chick flick at a tacky, oversubscribed cinema. I, for one, don’t know why someone wouldn’t leap at the chance of handing themselves over gladly to the temple of Del Rey, but there are some who feel very strongly ‘anti-Lana’. This led me to wonder, why such opposition? How can one musician, and a ‘pop’ musician at that, strike up so much controversy amongst the public. One of these self proclaimed ‘haters’ is actually my best friend. She claimed, at one point, to hate all Lana fans, until I swiftly reminded her of whom her best friend was. She said I was the exception. In her opinion Lana’s persona is an act, devoid of meaning, brought to this conclusion by Del Rey herself, who claimed there was ‘no reason’ for using nostalgic video clips in her music videos. A valid and frustrating point, fair enough. But in defence of the deity of Lana, it is but one interview in which she is
trying to weave a vague and mysterious persona, too easily interpreted as ‘air-headed’. My friend also feels that her live singing is atrocious – personal opinion. This is all topped off by the fact that she doesn’t like her music or the vocal qualities – agree to disagree – and that she is entirely unoriginal. I, however, did agree with her on one thing – the ‘Type-A’ Del Rey fan, whom we have amicably nicknamed the ‘hip-hop-ster’. This particular breed of music fan is relatively new, combining the cool angst of the hip-hop world with an ever-trendy ‘indie’ persona, taking it to a newer, ‘higher-class’ level, if you will. These people are everywhere - it’s that girl with the frilly socks, creepers and ombre hair, sporting a leather backpack. It’s the boy trawling through the lanes hailing Maison Martin Margiela, wearing round sunglasses and spelling ‘fuck’ like ‘fvck’ (I still don’t really get this trend). They both preach Instagram like a religion. They have a new found arrogance, more so than any clique I have ever encountered. They would describe Lana as a ‘bad bitch’, though I think she seems like a perfectly nice young girl. Although it is comical to try and pigeonhole people in this way, all worshiping the same icon, it doesn’t diminish my love for Lana at all. I think she is brave, a work entirely out of post-modernism – a fully selfaware creation of what we need in our age. Lana represents the condition of current society, self-made, self-obsessed, and self-proclaiming – she claimed her fame and I absolutely love it. -KATE ERINGER photo: lanadelrey.tumblr.com
The epitome of Italian style: Valentino at Somerset House
Valentino, or Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani, is one personality in fashion who has managed to ascend to the status of legend. This season, Somerset House is dedicating a major exhibition devoted to celebrating his work. The first part of the exhibition displays personal correspondence between Valentino and fashion icons, living and deceased, such as Manolo Blahnik, Jackie O and Elizabeth Taylor. They allow a glimpse into the alluring life Valentino has led, revealing exciting quirks such as Anna Wintour’s surprisingly scruffy handwriting. Photos and magazine clippings complete the collage of Valentino’s public life, although the exhibition is far removed from any truly intimate photographs or letters. Next, a selection of Valentino’s sketches show his sartorial skill between the 1960s and 2008. This consists of a hall filled with 130 lavish couture gowns, designed by Valentino over 50 years. The garments are not ordered chronologically but rather thematically, as an effective demonstration of the timelessness of the designer’s works. Only the guidebook reveals the true age of the designs. His work is both eternal yet beyond its own era. The last section is dedicated to the craftsmanship of Valentino’s fashion house, the heart of the exhibition. It begins with the opulent and stylish wedding dress Marie-Chantal Miller wore when marrying Prince Pavlos of Greece in 1995. Though Valentino has designed many wedding dresses, including for Jacqueline Kennedy for her nuptials to Aristotle Onassis in 1968, this particular dress has attracted particular public attention. British fashion critic Suzy Menkes described the wedding as a turning point for late twentieth century couture, marking ‘the return of socially prominent clients and a swing away from celebrity’. The exhibition is a must-see not only for Valentino fans, but for anyone interested in fashion. Don’t miss the chance to see the works of a fashion designer who has shaped the industry like few else. Valentino: Master of Couture at Somerset House London until 3 March 2013.
T’S ON? london
The curious world of fashion photographer Tim Walker Giant snails, skeletons and a flying saucer – this is the world of British fashion photographer Tim Walker, whose work was on show at London’s Somerset House. Ever since he shot his first fashion editorial for Vogue at age 25, Walker has been a part of fashions elite. His works regularly grace the pages of Vogue, W, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair. In addition, he has shot campaigns for Miu Miu, Givenchy and Mulberry Spring Summer 2012, involving an oversized ice cream cone and our one and only Brighton pier. The British ideal of ‘the home’ is a truly distinctive feature of Tim Walker’s dynamic work. He often chooses to shoot in the British countryside, where he unveils his surreal visions which have included fashion model Kinga Rajzak piloting a flying saucer whilst hunting with members of the West Percy Hunt in Northumberland’s Eglingham Hall. Walker’s excessive fantasy does not stop there, surprising the visitors of the exhibition with the shoot’s props, such as a fly
playing the double bass, and the aforementioned snail lurking from the ceiling. As an outspoken sceptic of the digital age, Walker chooses to have his fantasies properly built rather than digitally processed - an admirable touch. Walker demonstrated a sense of humour with his portraits of Scarlett Johannson, the five surviving members of Monty Python’s Flying Circus and rabbiteared Lanvin designer, Alber Elbaz. Although, more serious portraits, featured in his collection including deceased fashion designer, Alexander McQueen, and actress Tilda Swinton, which revealed the breadth of Walker’s skills. As a photographer, who can easily be labelled an artist constantly striving to overcome the boundaries of his genre, Walker’s fantastic works amaze. ‘Story Teller was an inspiring exhibition, and a visit couldn’t help but set your imagation alight
-Saskia Ibrom promenade -spring
Exhibition - Biba and Beyond: Barbara Hulanicki
Brighton fashion lovers, behold the fashion exhibition of the year! Brighton School of Art’s very own Barbara Hulanicki has returned to tell the incredible story of her brand, Biba, and beyond. Biba changed the concept of high-street fashion in the 60s and 70s, through Hulanicki’s ingenious and rebellious fashion designs. Biba’s story is reminisced through the form of photographs, illustrations and an assortment of rare fashion collections. Definitely not to be missed, the exhibition will be open until the 14th of April at the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery. [see next page for full review]
Music - Foy Vance The Irish vocalist and songwriter, Foy Vance, will be gracing the stage at Komedia in Brighton on the 12th of March. He has recently announced his tour dates in the US in collaboration with Ed Sheeran. With singles, ‘Homebird’ and ‘Gabriel and the Vagabond’ featuring in the popular US hit series Grey’s Anatomy, Vance is tipped for a speedy journey to stardom. Make the most of this opportunity to see this man in action at local scene, Komedia.
Film Oz: The Great and Powerful The long awaited prequel to the Hollywood classic, The Wizard of Oz, sees us return to the magical land of Oz. Directed by Sam Raimi, the acclaimed director of the Spiderman trilogies, and starring James Franco, Rachel Weisz and Mila Kunis, this collaboration with Disney promises to surpass the visual fantasy that is Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland. The film sees James Franco, a small town magician, carried into the Land of Oz by a great twister, where he meets the witches of Oz. Follow this enchanting story of the battle between good and evil, hitting the cinema screens in March.
Film Exhibition - Shoot the Wrx, Artist and Filmmaker Jeff Keen Join in the celebration of the life of iconic artist and Filmmaker, Jeff Keen (1923-2012), at the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery. Known for his highly innovative techniques in superimposition and his fanatical love for surrealism, Jeff Keen was exceedingly committed to Brighton and Hove, using the area as inspiration for a majority of his projects. The exhibition will reveal his creative, real and surreal world, not just in filmmaking, but also in poetry, paintings, and drawings. Jeff Keen’s work will be on show until the 24th of February.
Dance/Comedy - Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo Get ready for the dance world’s greatest ballet phenomenon, Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo, or more notoriously known as ‘The Trocks’. This remarkable ballet troupe is unlike any other, with its company comprising of all male drag performers. The performance is a thrilling compilation of serious skilled pieces, and the portrayal of both male and female techniques in a humorous fashion. Be prepared for an exciting array of costume changes and size 10 ballet pointe-shoes. The Trocks, on stage for two nights only, are guaranteed to provide a night to remember at the Brighton Dome from 15th-16th of February,
clockwise from top: Foy Vance, Les Ballets Trockadero De Monte Carlo, Oz: The Great and Powerful, Biba & Beyond, Jeff Keen
-LIVIY GORDON promenade -spring
Beyond Biba & Barbara Hulanicki. Brighton Museum & Art Gallery 22 September 2012 to 14 April 2013
Walking in from the bright Lanes of Brighton, the cavernous entrance hall of Brighton Museum and Art Gallery is at first disappointing. That is, until you enter the rooms dedicated to Beyond Biba. Crammed full of exquisitely dressed mannequins, wonderfully rich textiles, bold prints and elegant cuts, Beyond Biba holds all the colour and life of Britain’s streets in the 1960s. The retrospective exhibition celebrates Barbara Hulanicki, the woman behind the cult label that transformed Britain’s high-street shopping in the 60s and 70s, and her incredibly successful later career in fashion illustration, interior design and architecture. Biba started out as a mail order service that provided attractive, affordable designs. Success came in May 1964 when Biba’s postal boutique offered a pink gingham dress, similar to one worn by Brigitte Bardot, to Daily Mail readers. It became an iconic Biba design and was purchased 17,000 times. After the success of this venture became apparent, Hulanicki moved Biba to its first shop on Abingdon Road in Kensington later that year. It was this shop - and the atmosphere and experience that went with it - that established Barbara and Biba’s seismic impact on Britain’s fashion industry. The store set a new precedent for shopping, with it’s
Art Nouveau and Hollywood glamour décor, dark lighting, loud music, communal changing rooms and stylish shop assistants. The mix between accessible and elite created a cult following. Celebrities such as Cher, Sonny, Julie Christie and Cilla Black were all known to shop at this same store, where everyday working women shopped. It seemed that women everywhere were all eager for Hulanicki’s romantic, sensual designs. The exhibition captures the excitement that surrounded the Biba label, using ephemera, illustrations, and photography, as well memories from those who followed Biba’s success and collected her garments, to recreate a sense of the shop. This insight into 60s Britain shows how revolutionary Hulanicki’s marketing tactics were, and highlights the impact they still have on us today: shops such as All Saints and Urban Outfitters have followed her lead in creating dimly lit atmospheric shops that entice the customer in with their full bodied experience. The clothes themselves are beautiful: Biba colours of sludgy blues, plums and pinks are interspersed with rich golds and striking blacks. The body-conscious, often ankle length designs have clear-cut forms that make each piece a miniature sculpture. Barbara Hulanicki’s championing of maxi coats can be seen in the form of a beautiful classic tweed, as well as a
what’s on a mackintosh cinched in at the waist and sporting enormous lapels to appeal to young customers. These classic looks bear the Biba signature style (skinny arms, dense colours, defined shoulders) that so many women idolised. The display takes time to take in: more outfits are discovered as you walk around the central plinths, and there’s reams of writing, from Barbara’s musings on her story to descriptions of the stores. Immersing yourself entirely is the only way to fully enjoy this glimpse into part of fashion’s history, and the warm sense of being surrounded by gorgeous hues and velvety textures is well worth it. The extent of Hulanicki’s work is enormous: male and female ranges, accessories, and children’s wear for the truly dedicated Biba appreciators, not to mention her later foray into home accessories when she and her late husband Stephen Fitz-Simon opened the apartment store, Biba Lifestyle, in 1973. However this venture proved unsuccessful, and the store closed two years later in 1975. This marked Hulanicki’s retirement from Biba, but by no means the end of her career. Since then, she has become heavily involved in interior design at Miami Beach, as well as collaborating on affordable lines for Topshop and George at Asda – a return to her roots – and was awarded an OBE for her contribution to British fashion in 2011.
Emerging back into the now lamp lit streets of today’s Brighton, I found myself almost overwhelmed by the wealth of sumptuous colours filling my thoughts, and looked with new eyes on the bustling crowds and all the coats, dresses, scarves, jackets, jumpers, shirts and hats they’d picked out to wear, now knowing a little more of the legacy of fashion. A lovely detour from everyday life, this exhibition is pure delight. -BETTY BAILEY
Adult: £6 Child: Free Concession: £4 Brighton & Hove Resident (proof of residency required): £3 Member: Free
Barbara Hulanicki’s heavy involvement in the curation of the exhibition is obvious from the personal insights available, as well as her connection with Brighton: raised here after her family fled from Palestine following the assassination of her diplomat father in 1948, she also opened the only Biba shop outside of London at 21 Queen’s Road. Unfortunately it didn’t experience great success, described by Hulanicki as ‘very much the Brighton of Graham Greene’s Brighton Rock, we employed a manageress who lived above the shop, but we hadn’t realized that she was a mobsters’ moll who entertained half the Brighton underworld!’ The exhibition adeptly explores Hulanicki’s Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Victorian and Hollywood glamour inspiration from which her striking, sultry and seductive designs emerged, and that led her to be such an important element in the cultural explosion of the 60s. photo: blog.lastminute
Eating out in Brighton For us students, eating out is an absolute treat (no, grabbing cheesy chips on the way home from a night out does not count). So why not make a real go of it when we have the chance? Dive straight into Brighton’s sea of gastronomic delights.
Brighton has a huge range of institutions that serve up delectable grub on a daily basis, so instead of the same ole’ Nando’s or Pizza Express meal, call on one of these fantastic restaurants right on your doorstep. Whether you fancy proper British fare or a mind-blowingly-hot curry, here’s Promenade’s eclectic guide to the best eating out experience in Brighton. -LIVIY GORDON
For the exotic taste of mother India, this restaurant (which also does takeaways) is a cut above the rest. The curries range from staggeringly hot to mild, to accommodate everyone’s individual desire for spice, yet keeping it as authentic as possible.
Bill’s is my absolute favourite cafeteria in Brighton; their Breakfast is a godsend after a late night of drinking and dancing. Relax for hours on long tables with your friends, and enjoy the warm, homely vibe.
A minor disclaimer notice for you fanatical meateaters out there, this establishment only serves up vegetarian dishes. But fear not, the curries are filled with plenty of delicious pulses in their enormous portions – quite enough to make up for the lack of meat. Starters range from £2 to curries at £5.50, a real bargain.
The distinct difference between Bill’s and other Brasserie style cafes is the sense of attention and willingness to please. They may not be creating fancy Michelin-style dishes, but their service and care provides all the TLC that most of us, sore headed, students need.
Planet India, 4-5 Richmond Parade, Brighton, BN2 9PH 01273 818 149 Opening times: Monday - Sunday: 18.00-22.00
Unwind and indulge for Breakfast, Lunch or Dinner – their menu is humble yet extensive, ranging from £4 to £12. Bill’s is definitely not to be missed! Tip: For those of you on campus who don’t want to venture all the way into Brighton for Brunch, Bill’s has another café in Lewes – very handy indeed. The Depot, 100 North Road, Brighton BN1 1YE 01273 692894 Opening times: Monday - Saturday: 8am - 11pm Sunday: 9am - 10.30pm
The Ginger Pig
If you are craving a proper British meal, then The Ginger Pig is THE place for you. Slightly more expensive, but this gastropub is well worth the price. Enjoy your meal in the rustic styled dining room, or during the summer months head out into the garden area for an alfresco dining experience. The menu showcases the best of British fare, embracing a seasonal menu that is consistently changing to incorporate the best produce available. Sample their perfectly cooked Pigeon Breast served with honey glazed vegetables and a balsamic reduction (a decent starter size portion at £7), the perfect tribute to British cooking. The Ginger Pig, 3 Hove Street, Hove, East Sussex, BN3 2TR 01273 736123 Opening Times: Mon – Sat 11.30am – 12 Midnight Sun – 12 Noon – 12 Midnight
The Giggling Squid Located in the heart of the Old Lanes, this Thai restaurant has a unique lunchtime menu that is the platform for a meal filled with fun. The idea behind the menu is a blend of its South East Asian roots with the Spanish sharing concept of Tapas (I always find an interactive meal that is shared so much more enjoyable). Why this has never been thought up before, I do not know. This affordable Tapas lunch menu is made up of dishes ranging from £1.95 to £3.90, very reasonable for such delectable food. Try the fresh Papaya Salad that cuts across the tongue with its acidity and hint of spice, or for something more filling, order the authentic Lamb Massaman Curry, which is guaranteed to transport you to the streets of Bangkok. The Giggling Squid, 11 Market Street, Brighton, BN1 1HH 01273 737373 Opening Times: Monday - Friday 12pm to 4pm, 5.30pm - 11pm Saturday - Midday to 11pm Sunday - Midday to 10pm promenade -spring
The Great Gatsby
Despite recent controversy surrounding the sudden change in release date from December 2012 to Summer 2013, Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of The Great Gatsby has film buffs patiently anticipating its release. Perhaps it’s the fact that the trailer opens with such an unexpected soundtrack (Jay Z and Kanye’s ‘No Church in the Wild’), maybe it’s the star studded cast, but the Great Gatsby is set to impress, taking a classic story deeply imbedded in 20th century American culture and re-vamping it with modern twist (yes, the film will be out in 3D). For those who are not familiar with the book, the classic follows ‘average guy’ Nick Carraway as he is lured into the extravagant lifestyle of his neighbour, millionaire Jay Gatsby. A love triangle, debauchery and crime ensues as Fitzgerald documents the crash and burn lifestyle of New York’s elite in the most decadent decade of the 20th century: the roaring 20s. In 1974, Hollywood legends Robert Redford and Mia Farrow starred in the third film adaption of this novel. Opening to mixed reviews, the ’74 adaptation performed exceptionally well at the box office, raking in over $26 million. How will the 2013 adaption fare against that? Arguably one of the best actors of our generation, Leonardo DiCaprio will take on the role of Gatsby himself. English darling Carey Mulligan will immortalise his love interest Daisy Buchannan. Isla Fisher and former ‘Peter Parker’ Tobey McGuire round up the cast, taking on the roles of Myrtle Wilson and Nick Carraway respectively. The film is certainly not lacking in talent, but will the big names rise to the occasion?
The stakes are high. It is almost too banal to state that the film risks flopping but it has certainly crossed the minds of Fitzgerald fanatics. Though, when considering at which hands the fate of the film lies, viewers need not worry. Director Baz Luhrmann has already demonstrated that he does not shy away from taking risks when it comes to the greats. If in any doubt, one need only remember his contemporary rendition of Shakespeare’s classic ‘Romeo and Juliet’. The Great Gatsby is set during a time when America was gradually inching towards the apex of an economic boom. The novel depicts the indulgent lifestyle with incredibly dense description packed into each page of the novel. Just how much will the costume and set designers take advantage of the chance to truly convey the opulence of the era? The trailer hints at the answer. In two and a half minutes, it becomes very clear that in this modern remake everything is bolder. The costumes are raunchier, the money more abundant, the drama and the tragedy of this story more visceral. Luhrmann’s legacy of extravagance seeps into the film, proving a worthwhile sibling to ‘Moulin Rouge’ and ‘Romeo and Juliet’. So be prepared next summer as the film is undoubtedly the must-see film of 2013. The only question is will The Great Gatsby live up to the hype, finding itself comfortably seated amongst great remakes of our generation? -Wanjiru Kariuki
travel photo: beautyplaces.com
POST FESTIVE FIX Switzerland Think: Snug cafés, snow-covered streets and onion-domed churches.
Where? Switzerland - the place to be for a post-Christmas festive fix. Switzerland has a lot to offer. Whether you want luxury, adrenalin fuelled fun or insane mountain-top parties, it’s all here.
Zermatt – Heimat des Matterhorns Zermatt is a quaint resort, dripping with class: there are more places to buy a Rolex or a piece from Cartier, than there are to buy a coffee. Imagine 350 year old traditional, sunblushed chalets, twinkling fairy lights and the smell of glüwein. Visit the Riffelap Resort (www.riffelalp.com) for panoramic views of the Matterhorn and the best apfelstrudel in the Alps. Stay at the Schweizerhof (www.schweizerhofzermatt.ch) or the Zermatterhof (www.zermatterhof.ch) and don’t forget to visit the world-renowned Zum See restaurant www.zumsee.ch. There’s no better way to end the day than snapping off one’s skis after an afternoon
gunning down the tree-lined blacks and popping open a bottle of bubbly on Zum See’s sunny terrace. While you’re here, why not check out...
◆Crap Bar – Laax, Switzerland◆
Despite the name, this is actually one of the best places for après-ski in Switzerland. Made out of local stone and named after the mountain Fyi, Crap Bar is not your typical, cosy bar. Think more cosmopolitan and trendy.
Caprices Festival in Crans Montana is held between the 7th and the 18th of March, transparent, mountaintop marquees perfect for electronic fiestas. With the likes of ‘The Killers’ and ‘Fatboy Slim’ already confirmed for 2013, it is bound to be a good one.
For a truly intimate Swiss experience, the exquisite resort of Murren will not disappoint. Hotel Eigar is of high recommendation www.hoteleiger.com Obviously adventures like these do not come cheap; but, to me, having a post-card perfect wealth of amazing memories make it worth it.
photo: holiday-lets.co.uk, guardian, time magazine
Want to get away for the holidays, but restricted by a tight student budget? Here are a couple of must-see destinations, perfect for an Easter getaway!
staying in the UK?
If you’re looking for a great British seaside holiday with a modern twist, the South Devon seaside town of Torquay has it all!
Where to stay? Arshurst Lodge, situated in the heart of Torquay, is a friendly and welcoming guesthouse. This original Victorian private residence has been transformed into a B&B. The cost of a nights stay depends on the season, but is definitely worth the slightly more expensive price in season. Where to eat? The town is filled with all types of restaurants, bistros and cafés. One of Torquay’s hidden gems is ‘The Steps Bistro’, a small restaurant serving a range of dishes. We recommend the mussels - a local favourite. Prices range from £5-£30. Where to shop? Built in 1852, the Market Forum houses a number of shop units and is well stocked with food, clothes, furniture and antiques – a great place to find local produce. Where to go out? Café Mambo, the new rooftop bar overlooking Torquay, offers a variety of drinks with cocktails to die for. For you night owls, hit nightclub ‘Venue’ for some potent house drinks. Get on the dance floor at Bohemia, and round the night off with a singsong and shots at ‘Banx’, a karaoke bar with real attitude. promenade -spring
keeping within the E.U. borders?
feeling more adventurous?
Where to stay? The Artharmony Hostel is a cheap but cheerful choice. Each room is decorated differently according to themes - we suggest you sleep underneath a canopy in the Jungle Room. A fun choice and only 5 minutes away from the center of Prague. Where to eat? Prague is more renowned for its beer, but if you want to explore Czech Cuisine you have to try the typical Bramborák (potato pancakes) or Gulás (goulash, a rich slowcooked meat and vegetable stew). Plzenska Beer Hall Restaurant, situated in Europe’s finest Art Nouveau building, the Municipal House, offers authentic Czech food in typical beer hall style atmosphere, with affordable prices. Where to shop? Shopping in Prague is worth the time, with very affordable prices. The streets are lined with boutiques and shopping malls. Where to go out? A hard choice, but of the many options plump for ‘Karlovy Lazne’, a medieval bath house turned into a five storey club. Each level plays a different style of music.
Where to stay? The city offers a variety of different hotels at reasonable prices. Depending on what style you are looking for, the Lausos Hotel offers glamorously styled rooms from £28 a night. Where to eat? Karakoy Lokantasi is highly recommended, serving a variety of seafood from grilled octopus to freshly grilled fish. Don’t forget to try the hummus! Where to shop? Head to the Grand Bazaar, yes it will be packed, but you will have the largest selection of just about everything. From jewellery to spices, the Grand Bazaar is a maze of wonder for any shopping fanatic. Keep costs down by bartering. Where to go out? Nightlife in Turkey revolves more around terraces, open air bars and clubs. Head to Reina if you want to go all out and dress up, or if you prefer something more low key, head towards the backstreets of Beyoglu.
Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, is definitely a must see. It has extraordinary historic and cultural sights, perfect for a weekend filled with rich history, as well as a spot of shopping!
Istanbul is the perfect place if you’re looking for a modern yet exotic middle-eastern getaway. A hybrid of historical sites, trendy bars, night spots, and restaurants…
- Sara Ali
AMS TER DAM The Non-Stoner Student Guide to... a weekend in the Netherlands
he first thing I should point out is that I am no stoner. That is not to say I haven’t dabbled, and don’t occasionally still dabble, but as generalisations and stereotypes go, I am categorically no stoner. Yet, throughout my life, I am surrounded by them. Maybe I subconsciously love their perpetual blurriness, who knows. Naturally whenever holidays come up, Amsterdam, home of the ‘Coffee Shop’ is always at the top of the list. I have avoided it ruthlessly, listening to stories of eight hour stretches slumped in a single café, doing nothing but smoking and buying the occasional drink. I’ll be honest, these stories fill me with disappointment – why fly to another country to do what you could do in your bedroom, for nothing else than the novelty? This year it transpired that several friends were planning a trip, but with relief I discovered it would be a mixture of the hardcores and the dabblers, like myself. Desperately clinging on to the rumours of beautiful architecture and museums, I swallowed my pride and, with trepidation, embarked on the adventure that I had been avoiding for so long. To my surprise, I found a small city not just ‘buzzing’, but buzzing with life, with a huge high street shopping area as well as streets filled with smaller boutiques and antique dealers. So if you are like me, desperate to explore the city without burning too big a hole in your pocket, then find a fellow explorer and follow these simple (but good) tips. I promise you will find your own kind of happy ending.
The red-light district is littered with cafes offering a full English breakfast, but that kind of greasy mess will leave you overcharged and disappointed. I would recommend turning a few more corners to the roads leading off Dam Square, where you will find tucked away patisseries, creperies and coffee shops - that actually serve coffee. If you find yourself peckish around the Museum Plein, or happen to be staying further out than the horseshoe, take yourself along to one of the Simon Meijssen bakeries (located at Albert Cuypstraat 78, Van Baerlestraat 162 or 23) for a Latte Macchiato and a cheesy croissant (at about €2 each), still warm and at a much cheaper price then most of the street side vendors.
Out of all of the oriental food joints in town, Wok to Walk looked the tastiest in both quality and price. Whilst the Sea Palace (the famous floating Chinese restaurant holding around 300 people) is probably a more exciting experience, Wok to Walk is a purse friendly alternative. This is another build your own meal situation (an oriental Subway if you will), where you can have complete control over your own food, and the price of it. Eat in or take it away to keep you warm as you wander through town.
Like most other western cities, Amsterdam is covered with McDonalds, Burger Kings and chip shops and they can seem very cheap, easy and reliable. But for a truly delicious lunch that won’t leave you wanting more, head to the canal side Bagels and Beans (the one I went to is at Roetersstraat 2a 1018 WC, but there are several all over Amsterdam), a bagel shop that lets you build your own lunch. There is something for every budget, ranging from a bagel with butter (about €2.50) to a wild smoked salmon and rocket feast (about €7.50). They also serve bagel tapas for two, so that you can try a little bit of everything on offer.
THE VAN GOGH DREAM EXPERIENCE. Do not go to this. Although the Van Gogh museum is currently closed and this seems like the next best thing, do not be fooled. The paintings on show are just replicas, and although they do have several new film installations, why do they need to be in 3D?
Carry on down the road from THE VAN GOUGH DREAM EXPERIENCE to the mini jetty next to Dam central station and hop on the canal tour boat (they leave every 20 minutes and are only €8.50) for a very pleasant way to explore the city without getting rained on or tired!
travel typical dutch houses line the roads in amsterdam
If you want to beat the crowds of the main shopping streets that surround Dam Square and the Leidsesplein, and aren’t too interested in visiting chain stores, turn onto the main canal leading from Leidsesplein and head down towards the Jordaan area. En route you will find some beautiful miscellaneous shops (think a condensed Snooper’s Paradise) mixed in with pop-up boutiques (surprisingly mostly men’s), antique and vintage stores, and most importantly, the Cheese, Tulips and Houseboat museums (for if you’re feeling super cultural). Don’t forget to keep your eyes on the other side of the canal as well for Anne Frank’s house and museum, as well as the odd shop or café; everything is worth a look! It is a rather long canal, but when you reach the Noordermarket (North market) at the end, I promise you won’t be disappointed. On a Monday morning it’s stall after stall of fur coats and hats, vintage and modern clothing, good quality jewellery and all the fabric you could dream of. It is worth looking up this market in advance as different days of the week specialise in different areas (Monday is the textiles market, Saturday the famers, and so on). There are a few other markets throughout the city, The Waterlooplein, (Mon to Sat 09:00 - 18:00) which is amazing for food, but otherwise a bit touristy, and The Albert Cuyp (Mon- Sat 9:00 - 17.00) which has a little bit of everything
Yes everyone there does speak English, but you don’t have to be THAT kind of tourist, a please and thank you in their mother tongue will go a long way if you a few cents short of a sandwich or lost in the red-light district. Hello Hallo / Goededag Good morning Goedemorgen / Goeiemorgen* Excuse me Neem me niet kwalijk/ Excuseert u mij How much is this? Hoeveel kost dit? Sorry Het spijt me! Thank you Dank u / Dank u wel (frm) Yes Ja No Nee/Neen^ Please Alsjeblieft / Alstublieft *NOT guten tag, they are not German and do not like it when this mistake is made ^ nee is mainly used by itself, and neen when as part of a sentence
The second thing tourists should make note of is that the more English and touristy somewhere looks, the more likely they are to charge for the toilet and be generally unpleasant, so get off the beaten track, the local places love customers too!
So now go, explore and have fun, but above all, don’t get too stoned. This beautiful city deserves your love and attention, and it will be worth giving it, I promise. -SOPHIE RAFALOWSKA-DUNNING promenade -spring
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Published on Feb 7, 2013
Published on Feb 7, 2013
The third installment from Promenade magazine, Sussex Universities' resident fashion, culture and beauty magazine, crafted by Sussex Fashion...