Monthly Newsletter of the Professional Womenâ€™s Association of Rome
FLORENCIA BARBIERI A MUSKETEER ALL FOR ONE AND ONE FOR ALL
PWA is an international hub in the heart of Rome where ideas and values, tradition and innovation, diversity, culture and professionalism meet and intersect. On our journey into the future our travel companions are respect, ethics, and a sense of social responsibility.
Letter from the President Technology shapes the Fashion Industry While great focus has been placed on the disruptive impact e-commerce and other technologies have had on traditional retailing, less focus has been placed on the complementary role technology has played to streamline processes, develop more efficient systems, and modernize operations within the fashion and retailing industry. Voice technology from my own professional perspective: Speech is the most natural way of communicating, and companies are innovating to radically improve voice recognition technologies. This has big implications for fashion. Apparel that can work with smartphones and mic-activated devices will future-proof itself. And importantly, companies will increasingly interact with their consumers by means of voice technology. It's predicted that by 2020, half of all web searches will use voice or image searches rather than text. Fashion apps and websites that allow customers to go from search through to purchase in one smooth voice stream - rather than multiple clicks - will build a strong competitive advantage. As in other sectors, new technologies have begun to revolutionize how businesses in the fashion industry operate. From supply chain modernization technology to streamline and make processes more efficient, . to the use of data analytics and artificial intelligence to help guide business decisions, or to the incorporation of social media tools and platforms to impact purchasing decisions, new technologies are not only changing how the modern fashion enterprise functions, but also how its products interact with a consumer whose purchasing behavior is constantly being radically reshaped by new technologies, in line with a need for sustainability A striking example comes from Nike, who has been acting against waste since it introduced its Reuse-a-Shoe program in 1990. To date, more than 30 million pairs of used shoes (including shoes from other companies) have been collected and recycled through that initiative. The collected footwear is the basis for Nike Grind materials that have been used around the world in the creation and renovation of more than 1 billion square feet of sports surfaces, such as running tracks, athletic fields, gym floors, and playgrounds. Potential other uses are to be explored through the “Design with Grind” branch of the Nike Circular Innovation Challenge Accordingly, Fashion Technology, or Fashion Tech, has become a rapidly growing and vibrant ecosystem. From $50mln total investments in Fashion Tech in 2009, by 2014 the number had risen to $2.8 billion. Continued demand for Fashion Tech has led to the creation of sector specific incubators and accelerators such as New York’s New York Fashion Tech Lab and Silicon Valley’s Fashion Tech Accelerator whose focus is to identify, guide, and develop the next wave of Fashion Tech innovators. Our March Conference by CEO Furio Francini will give us insights into how the fashion industry is evolving, embracing new technology, and how new talents are nurtured to fit the equation. The follow-up Open Day event on 14th April will offer a hands on experience for those wishing to investigate further the career opportunities available in the world of fashion through the Accademia Costume & Moda. Enjoy!!
Valentina Ferretti PWA president
Ivana Madonna editor firstname.lastname@example.org
in this issue
2 4 5 6 8 10 12 14 15 16
Technology Shapes the fashion industry, Letter from the President March Conference: Catwalk, Meet the Accademia Costume & Moda Open Day Accademia Costume & Moda Florencia Barbieri - The Musceteer, One for All and All for One The Italian Fashion Industry Has a Rose-Rinted Future Elements of Fashion Arsenic and Old Lace - Italian Fashion Museums March Connexion "Climate Change" February Conference "The Future of Women's Roles in Business" PWA Elections 2018-19
17 Business Mastermind Group - Angela Carfa
8 16 15 3
PWA March Conference
21 March at 19.30 at Grand Hotel Palace
CATWALK Meet the Accademia Costume & Moda
With FURIO FRANCINI, CEO of Accademia Costume & Moda we’ll take a brief look behind the scenes of the complex and competitive world of fashion. What does it take to make a designer successful enough to reach the catwalk? Discover how fledgling talents are nurtured and prepared with a top class education before new brands can be born and become successful.
About Our Speaker
After his BA in Business Administration from John Cabot University, Furio begins his career in London as a Junior Credit Analyst, followed by 10 years as an Equity Analyst. He joins Mediobanca, in 2006 where he becomes Head of the Equity Investments Group, identifying Pan-European equity investment opportunities. During this period, Furio is a member of the bank’s Investment Committee and Trading Committee. In 2011, Furio joins the Board of Accademia Costume & Moda and from 1 October 2013 becomes its CEO. Furio with his award winning acumen in investment banking, brings new lymph to the world of fashion, by forging tomorrow’s designers..
New talent CRISTIANA GUAGLIANONE Come and discover how her collection was created, from research and idea generation, to design and finally experimentation and production.
Accademia Costume & Moda
Special event for
Admission free to limited group
Behind the scenes of Accessories design; where new brands begin
Meet Fashion Students & Professors
Learn all about Master Courses
Programme 1. About us 2. ACM History & Achievements as a top player 3. Q & A
Lunch (optional) When: 1 4th April 2018, 11.00-13.00hrs
Etablì, Vicolo delle Vacche 9/A, 00186 ROME 13.15- 15.00hrs - à la carte menu
Where: Via della Rondinella 2, 00186 ROME
Reserve your place via email@example.com
FLORENCIA BARBIERI, A MUSKETEER ALL FOR ONE AND ONE FOR ALL -
By Valerie Baxter, Newsletter consultant
Florencia Barbieri comes from Buenos Aires, Argentina. Mental images cross my brow as we talk: the sensually mischievous tango, endless pampas of cattle, tended by legendary gauchos. When asked about other unique characteristics, Florencia reminisces endearingly about red wine and her favourite, “empanada” - a beef starter pasty eaten before succumbing to the intoxicating smell and taste of barbeque, or the “Dulce de Leche” best bought rather than making it yourself of condensed milk which is worked into a toffee substance. Unique nature represented by the overwhelming presence of the glaciers of Patagonia; the sheer size of the country is impressive in its own right. Unsurprisingly she is fond of Yoga and trekking. Florencia tells a different story of this immense country, where she grew up with her twin brother and younger brother. They were always in each other’s thoughts, like the three musketeers, “ all for one and one for all - united we stand, divided we fall .” She could count on reciprocal defence and back up; her brothers always took care of her. Her supportive parents sent her to the same Italian school as her twin, treated them equally, each group of friends came to the same birthday party, but they had two birthday cakes, demonstrating their individuality.
Her parents respected her different ideas, her choices, and supported her decision to take an Erasmus in Milan, whilst her brother helped her financially to start out, giving concreteness to her wish. She not only enriched herself with geography and history travelling throughout Italy, but also had to study statistics, as in Italy, these were the rules of engagement. She soon realised how easy it was to travel alone, unafraid, having fun with her fellow Danish student. Florencia also journeyed to Asia for a four month sabbatical, where she discovered she could do whatever she wanted: “ if you want it, go for it” , she says. Steve Jobs influenced her future by his famous life changing phrase “ You can't connect the dots looking forward; you can only connect them looking backwards . So you have to trust that the dots will somehow connect together... ” Florencia also participated in the “Cammino di Santiago” otherwise known in English as “the Way of St. James” among others. It was then that she met her partner, eight years ago, creating the premise for her stability in Italy. Yet Florencia could never renounce her passion for travelling to discover new things or historic places, even if it just means going to a special restaurant. She recounts her fundraising efforts to which she contributes supporting a Dynamo Camp in Pistoia whose mission is giving sick children an opportunity to spend time together as a family to enjoy just being children, forgetting for a moment their illness. https://www.dynamocamp.org/en/ Florencia left five nephews in Argentina, now teenagers, and over the years has reduced frequency of visits home from once a year to once every two years. Brought up to think of family and friends as being there any time has forced Florencia to think of friendship differently by experience. The native cultural concept of ‘always with people’ changed geographically as she left Buenos Aires, and whilst her Argentinian friends in London differed from the Argentinian ladies met in Rome, her ties are still very strong with those that grew up with her in her native city. Conscious that we all need each other, Florencia received her first professional coaching experience at work. She subsequently trained as a coach, and since then she is inspired daily, for example in her latest trip to the Dolomites, to “give back” the support she herself had received in order to achieve her goals. Over twenty years in the same company, with a very significant CV has given her the perspective to work in the field of business coaching. Given the positive energy that coaching entails, she feels that it now defines who she is. We are proud to add that Florencia is also currently a PWA mentor.
The Italian Fashion Industry has a Rose-tinted Future By Valerie Baxter, PWA newsletter consultant Italy is: ●
Europe’s second-largest manufacturing economy, and home to some of the region’s most environmentally efficient manufacturing systems ● Europe’s third-largest exporter of flexible manufacturing technologies, including robotics, with $9.6 billion in Italian exports to the United States alone. ● Among just five countries worldwide with a manufacturing trade surplus exceeding $100 billion. Italy is also among the world leaders in industrial machinery. It ranks second worldwide in global competitiveness in that industry and is among the world’s top three producers of machined parts. According to the latest Fashion Economic Trends released last month by the Camera della Moda, estimated revenues of the industry, comprising all categories from textiles and leather goods to apparel, footwear, jewelry, eyewear and cosmetics, increased 2.8 percent to 87 billion euros in 2017. Now Italy’s leaders are staking their future on digitalization, education, and strategic collaboration. The plan also includes a strong educational component. The Italian government plans to create four or five centers of competence at top Italian universities in Milan, Pisa, and other locations. Collectively, those centers will shoot for some ambitious 10-year targets: training 200,000 students and 3,000 managers, and awarding 1,400 PhDs “on topics related to innovation, high technology, and the industry of the future” says luxury goods executive Michele Scannavini, president of ICE-ITA (Italian Trade Agency), New York.
Masters of Fashion? Italy’s fashion houses are legendary, from Dolce Vita to Prada, Versace to Valentino. The country has always been known for its meticulous craftsmanship and luxury materials, but it was only after World War II that Italy emerged as a fashion destination. During the ’50s and ’60s, while French labels like Christian Dior and Jacques Fath turned their focus fully on couture, only Italian fashion designers truly understood the need for women to have comfortable, versatile clothing that was also tailored and refined. Italian day wear took off in America and paved the way for the ready-to-wear collections coming out of fashion houses today.“Italian designers really understood the American women,” says Stefano Tonchi of W magazine, former editor of NY Times Style magazine. Women Designing For Women Part of the reason Italy was the first market for day wear was a coterie of women designers who understood the needs of women. Historian and visionary Rosana Pistolese, before founding ACM, spent part of her career designing patterns at Sorelle Fontana. Germana Marucelli, Mila Schön, Simonetta, and Galitzine: “this group of ladies were all coming from Italian aristocracy, and they found themselves without a job and without any money after the war,” says Tonchi. “What they knew was clothes, they loved clothes, and they had the technical know-how to create these collections.” For a sector rooted in change, fashion has often proved surprisingly resistant to rewrite. Consider, for example, one beloved refrain of the last decade in boardrooms and back rooms alike: that Milan was the least
creative of the four fashion capitals, run by old names, dominated by big money and lacking any support from a crumbling establishment. By contrast, London was considered a breeding ground of edgy young things lauded as faces of the future, and Paris, all creative conceptualism and glamour, the zenith of the seasonal calendar. Pity the poor young Italian designer, struggling to break through. But now it’s time to rethink the stereotype. Among the 50 Italian names on the Milanese calendar, a constellation of rising stars has emerged over the last five years, many of these thanks to an excellent education at the Accademia Moda & Costume of Rome. Alessandro Michele, Frida Giannini (ACM) have successfully taken the reins at the top-tier fashion house of Gucci, Meanwhile fledgling talents including Nicolas Martin Garcia (ACM) junior menswear designer at Dolce e Gabbana is attracting considerable attention and acclaim. Antonio Mancinelli, another former ACM pupil, is now an authoritative professional journalist and fashion writer (Marie Claire, Hearst magazine). With so many glowing reports from it’s alumni, patrons and important Fashion Industry figures and press, the Accademia di Costume e Moda of Rome is a Fashion School that offers not only a top class education and training in many different areas of Fashion and Design, but also a promising future from a warm, familial establishment. And when talking of the future, from grandmother, through to grandsons, the bottom line is (at least in Italy): family is everything!
Elements of By Hanna Suni www.hamedesign.com
As Valentina Ferretti writes in this month’s President’s Letter, technology has shaped and revolutionized the fashion industry as well as many others. Fashion technology has become a vibrant industry with huge investments being made in R&D laboratories around the world. Searching the net for ideas on how fashion technology could have an impact on my personal life, I came across some quite interesting apps that can for example bridge geographical gaps − online second-hand shops −and ease the every-day dilemma of what shall I wear today. The Stylebook app actually plans your weekly wardrobe based on what you have in the closet! Take a look and evaluate whether you’d like to try them out as well.
You have to pay for this app, but its features can make your life a lot easier. Catalog each item in your closet to plan outfits, create packing lists, and get expert styling tips. By using the calendar feature—where you can input outfits for each day of the week—the app also helps you track just how often you wear certain clothes, giving you a cost-per-wear analysis (so maybe those $500 boots are worth it because you don them a couple of times a week?)
No need to trek to the consignment store and haggle over pricing. Take pictures of the items you want to sell, price each one, and list them on this app’s marketplace. Once someone buys an item, Tradesy will send you a free shipping kit to mail your item out. Tradesy takes a 9% commission and you’ll get the rest of the payment in the form of Tradesy cash, so you can buy designer clothes and accessories from the app.
If you need to update your wardrobe, but don’t feel like fighting the crowds at the mall, you can shop more than 800 brands with this app. With that kind of variety, you can explore the app to find new and unique designers and brands. Follow your favorites and you’ll get notifications when they have sales or new collections.
Fads of fashion?
Most global fashions aren’t fads. They arise from centuries of tradition and don’t go out of vogue when the seasons change: the bold beadwork of the Maasai in the Serengeti, the endless folds of a bright blue Tuareg head wrap in the Sahara, a Scottish tartan. Here are some of the world’s most notable fashions and the people who wear them—plus tips on borrowing the styles when you get back home. These vibrant cultures were slaying their fashion game long before the runway was invented. Check them out in the beautiful photos presented in the article on National Geographic Travel.
Young designers And if you’d like to read about young promising fashion designers, check out this article on Teen Vogue. These five young designers are sticking out from the crowd.
Arsenic and Old Lace - Italian Fashion Museums by Ivana Madonna, Newsletter Editor
“Just like food, we need clothes to live” Giorgio Armani, with this statement has made from the imposing structure of an ex-industrial warehouse, where grains and cereals were stored, the place for his own archive, a historical memory which lives through a hyper modern digital soul. Here are touchscreen tables, workstations and projection areas containing an immense cultural heritage: a huge exhibition with a selection of apparel from 1980 to today.The world of fashion, today more than ever must be credible, not just in business but also via image. Active places full of events, exhibitions and forums which become international “cult” references for fashion information, image and all that rotates around it in order to promote it in the world. Bringing to light and enhancing the value of sources which document the history of Italian fashion is of priceless cultural, social and economic value. Social, because fashion has given a significant contribution to national identity. Economic, because museums, besides being a limitless source of creative inspiration, conserve the historical memory of Italian fashion, a unique patrimony. The union between fashion and cultural wealth is destined to grow to become decisive for Italy’s development. From Rome to Milan, thru Florence up to Gorizia and not only, Italy is rich in museums, archives, galleries and foundations dedicated to fashion and costume. The most refined and elegant among Italian museums, they are places in which history, fashion and art meet and become testimonials of a splendid past, narrating step by step how Made in Italy was born. Discover some of them!
Uffizi Galleries-Museum of Fashion and Costume Dedicated to the history of fashion. Hosts collections of costumes and accessories from ‘700 to present. Theatrical costumes, besides restored funeral vestments of Cosimo I de’ Medici. Eleonora di Toledo and Don Garzia. Biennial selections and temporary exhibitions. The garments - restored to their original splendour by the Galleria del Costume and Palais Galliera - were created by the most important and prestigious ateliers between Florence, Rome, Milan, Paris and New York.
Capucci Museum, Florence Capucci was a brilliant and uncompromising inventor, considered creative ambassador of the world. The exhibition space, curated by the Roberto Capucci Foundation, was inaugurated on 27th October 2007 with a temporary exhibition “Return to Origin”.Information archive for students and experts of fashion styles and costume, its purpose is the revitalisation of the Italian tradition of specialities, style, passion for beauty and the recovery of identity, ancient traits of highly specialised artisans, development of new creative talents.
Textile Museum - Prato The Textile Museum in Prato is one of the most important European sites for the history and development of textiles from ancient times to the present. The first nucleus of the museum dates was built in 1975 constituted by a donation of XIV-XIX century fabrics by private collector Loriano Bertini
Palazzo Morando Costume Fashion Image Palazzo Morando is a historical building in Milan, once known as the Milan Museum. Since 2010 the rooms of Palazzo Morando propose in rotation significant items of the Milanese wardrobe, which document civic costume of rare quality, fundamental artistic patrimony of Milan.
Silk Museum Calabrian Museum of textile, silk, costume, fashion handicraft, simply known as the Silk Museum in Reggio Calabria offers a historical artistic panorama of silk and costume.
Elena Aldobrandini Textile and Garment Museum, Naple Founded in 1655 by noblewoman Elena Aldobrandini wife to Antonio Carafa Duke of Mondragone, the textile and garment museum started out as a safe retreat for women in difficulty. Since, exhibitions of religious paraments of XVII Century, lace, embroidery of XIX and XX Centuries together with southern tailored garments have given way in 2003 to textile collections from ‘800 and first half of ‘900.
Museum of Fashion and Applied Arts, Gorizia Occupies the first floor of Dornberg and Tasso houses, uniting the already present productive silk and jewellery sections. Lace is among the most precious ornaments, which in Gorizian territory has a prestigious tradition dating back to 1672 when two Orsoline nuns from Liège introduced bobbin lace. The sophisticated elegance of middle european tailoring with characteristic Flemish influence is expressed according to occasion and time of day:morning, visiting, evening of the ‘900 period.
Textile and Costume Museum of Spoleto Formed by generous donations from collectors, the museum gathers work manufactured from XIV to XX Century. The collections organised according to theme, snakes through five rooms. from sacred paraments where it’s possible to see a series of planets from different epochs and a precious XV Century pomegranate velvet. Then follow rooms displaying costumes of Empire style, one belonging to Bonaparte’s sister in law Alexandrine. Then follow a vast selection of bonnets, shoes, handbags, on to brocades.Finally the local textiles, among which the Perugine tablecloths reproduced in paintings by Leonardo, Il Ghirlandaio, Giotto among others.
Museum of Silk and Ancient Looms, San Leucio At San Leucio, a kilometre from the Reggia di Caserta, is the silk museum of the Colonia di San Leucio, whose origin is attributed to the Borbons who realized the silk farm, giving work to numerous families. They produced precious fabrics for the Royal house of Borbon, and other noble families worldwide. The Vatican, Quirinale, Buckingham Palace and the White House flags were all made here. Today, unproductive, the structure has become a museum, part of UNESCO heritage
7 March 2018 - Conne ion This ConneXion, on the topic of â€œClimate Changeâ€? (in Italian) was hosted by Finanza e Futuro of Deutsche Bank Group, with a presentation by Nordea.
Art Hotel, Via Margutta 56, ROME 15
February Conference Grand Hotel Palace, Rome “The Future of Women's Roles in Business” 17 Hotel Palace, Rome Speakers: Andrea Pazzona, Donatella Quattri “Over the last century women’s presence in the world of work has increased dramatically. At the same time, the strong push of digitalization and new technologies in the industrial sectors with a high rate of innovation has led many companies to review their organizational models, enhancing the contribution of female leadership in the challenges of new markets. What are the real changes in contemporary organizations? The impact of automation has increased the request for highly skilled workers with specific technical skills, on the other hand, organizations will need to be less hierarchical to quickly respond to the market.
PWA BOARD ELECTIONS on Wednesday May 16, 2018 Ready to be a part of it? For questions and to candidate yourself, contact firstname.lastname@example.org
WE ARE LOOKING FOR A Vice President PR Director Social Director Sponsorship Director make a difference
HAVE YOU CHOSEN ALREADY? ▶ get to know the candidates ▶ voice your opinion ▶ be a candidate
Angela Carfa Commercialista – Revisore Legale BUSINESS MASTERMIND GROUP Il concetto di mastermind group è stato coniato nel 1925 da Napoleon Hill nel suo libro The law of success. Un business mastermind group permette ad un gruppo di persone di confrontarsi al fine di migliorare il proprio business. Ognuno/a apporta il proprio contributo sulla base della propria esperienza professionale (e personale), senza gerarchie. La forza di questa tipologia di incontro risiede nella condivisione di idee, buone pratiche, strumenti di sviluppo della propria azienda o percorso professionale. Le principali caratteristiche di un BMG funzionante potrebbero essere riassunte nelle seguenti:
L’Intento comune delle persone partecipanti è quello di confrontarsi armoniosamente e con dedizione; Il livello di esperienza professionale è bene che sia equivalente; È fortemente consigliata l’interdisciplinarietà.
Il gruppo funziona sulla base della governance condivisa e codificata. È consigliabile stilare le norme di funzionamento relative ai seguenti aspetti: 1. 2. 3. 4.
Numero di persone, che potrebbe essere compreso tra 4 e 8 Periodicità e durata degli incontri Modalità di incontro, online oppure fisicamente Struttura dei singoli incontri. Al fine di assicurare la fruttuosità del confronto e del tempo dedicato, si potrebbe prevedere, ad esempio, la rotazione della figura del leader a cui assegnare la funzione di facilitazione dei diversi momenti dell’incontro.
Un esempio di BMG della durata complessiva di un’ora e tratto dal web https://skillsandmore.org può fornire qualche spunto di riflessione sulla struttura: 1. 10 minuti iniziali: condividere i successi che ogni partecipante ha conseguito sulla base dei consigli condivisi nel corso dell’incontro precedente. 2. 40 minuti: hot seat/protagonista. Nel corso di ciascun incontro un/una partecipante manifesta e argomenta una sua necessità/bisogno mentre le altre persone presenti fanno domande, offrono consigli e il proprio punto di vista. 3. 10 minuti finali: dichiarare i propri obiettivi. Ognuno/a dichiarerà di fronte al gruppo l’obiettivo che intende conseguire possibilmente prima dell’incontro successivo. PROPOSTA BUSINESS MASTERMIND GROUP Il BMG che propongo potrebbe coinvolgere in prevalenza imprenditrici e professioniste e restare aperto anche ad imprenditori/professionisti. La parte centrale dell’incontro potrebbe riguardare l’approfondimento di un bisogno delle persone presenti, il confronto relativo a testi suggeriti. L’aspetto caratteristico potrebbe essere l’utilizzo di tecniche di facilitazione, come il Lego Serious Play e altre, che promuovendo la creazione di idee attraverso la manualità e l’immaginazione, siano in grado di coinvolgere paritariamente e promuovere l’espressione delle persone partecipanti.
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PWA Year 2017/18 Event program
e th e da tes
conferences conneXions dates to be announced
March 21 April 18 May 16
March IWD 14th April 2018 Open Day Accademia Costume & Moda June Summer Party
Check out www.pwarome.org 19
Membership news New Members Welcome!
We would like to welcome Paola Cocciolo, Metaxia Lianos, Helen Magnani, Vukosava Nikolic, Valentina Tecce as members who have recently joined our Association. PWA is a place that grows with each member, therefore we are looking forward to enjoying PWA together with you! Make sure to take advantage of all that PWA has to offer, from our monthly events to scholarships and Expert Resources, from the Mentoring programs to TimeOut Professional TimeBank. If youâ€™d like to join, visit our website and contact MembershipDirector@pwarome.org .
2017-2018 PWA Board and Team members President Valentina Ferretti Vice President & Legal Advisor Adriana Tempesta Secretary Maria Grazia Panessa Treasurer Lisa Rosen Programming Director Dana Sabine Shuch Membership Director Gerlie Saura Social Director Rossella Castaldo Sponsorship Director Cecilia Bersani PR Director Newsletter Editor Ivana Madonna Webmistress Veronica Penzo Community Director Veronica Penzo Media communications assistant Karima Hassa
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