Colour & clients
Curls June 2022 | saloninternational.co.za
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Cover Image HAIR: FELLOWSHIP PROJECT: COLOUR IN ASSOCIATION WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, TEAM LEADER: PAUL DENNISON, MAKE-UP: LUCY FLOWERS, ART DIRECTION: FELLOWSHIP PRESIDENT ROBERT EATON, PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD MILES, PROJECT: TEAM LEADER: PAUL DENNISON, PROJECT: TEAM MEMBERS: LUKE LOGAN – STRAND & LOCK AVEDA, LUKE TYRRELL – HEADMASTERS MAYFAIR SALON, CALLUM IQBAL – BRENDAN O’SULLIVAN HAIR & BEAUTY, ANDREW FEVE – ANTI.DOTE, KAYLEIGH BYRNE – TRIBE SALONS, SOPHIA MARTIN – AMARYLLIS SALON, LOUISE MUNRO – ALICE & THE HAIR, APRIL MASH – STRANGEWAYS, JAMES HOLROYD – YOKE THE SALON, KATE MCLAUGHLIN – SARAI HAIR & BEAUTY, SOPHIE PERFECT – GFC HAIRDRESSING, ELLA GRAY – AURORA HAIR SALON
Welcome Tempus Fugit We are now half way through 2022 already! This year has flown by and unfortunately we are still operating under the shadow of the COVID pandemic. I recently saw a MEME of someone burning their facemask and it really chimed. It feels like the rest of the world is getting on with their lives and we are left behind. However! Good things to look forward to. Summer is on the way, hopefully some great ideas on styles, colours and cuts that will get your creative juices going. With the start of summer comes the Salon International and Professional Beauty events. All sorts of things will be going on at the event, from business seminars to a photographic hair competition. Further details will be announced shortly. We hope you enjoy this issue of the magazine, lots of great tips and colour, plus some awesome business topics, creative salon ideas and fantastic fashion ideas to inspire.
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg Tel: 011 781 5970
Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz Cover photo Shutterstock
I AM RELENTLESS IN MY PURSUIT FOR TRUE INNOVATION. THESE PRODUCTS PERSONIFY MY EFFORTS TO EVOLVE GROOMING TO THE NEXT LEVEL. THIS IS MY STATEMENT. WHAT’S YOURS? JULIUS CVESAR – SESSION BARBER, PLATFORM EDUCATOR & CREATIVE DIRECTOR
CONTACT US ON ZACUSTOMERSUPPORT@HENKEL.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION.
NEWS A new study shows that a chemical in some hair products used by black women increases risk of breast cancer Haircare and beauty products marketed to black women often contain a class of hormone-disrupting chemicals called parabens. According to a new study, those chemicals are not only linked to increased breast cancer risk, they uniquely fuel the spread of cancer cells in black women, compared to white women. Parabens are a group of chemicals that keep mold and bacteria from growing on beauty products, thus prolonging their shelf lives. But, in humans, parabens can mimic the hormone estrogen, possibly fueling dangerous cell growth, according to research. The study, which will be presented today at the Endocrine Society’s annual meeting in Atlanta, analysed the effect parabens had on breast cancer cells from both black women and white women. Researchers found parabens increased the growth of black breast cancer cell lines, but did not effect white breast cancer cell lines at the same dose. Parabens also increased the expression of genes linked to breast cancer in both black and white women. “Black women are more likely to buy and use hair products with these types of chemicals, but we do not have a lot of data about how parabens may increase breast cancer risk in black women,” Lindsey S. Treviño, the study’s lead researcher, said in a press release. “This is because black women have not been picked to take part in most research studies looking at this link. Also, studies to test this link have only used breast cancer cell lines from white women.” (Business News SA)
News Wella USA aquires new brand Wella has announced that it has reached a definitive agreement to acquire Briogeo, one of the fastest-growing hair care brands in the world and one of the largest independent Black-owned brands in the United States.
ANNIE YOUNG-SCRIVNER, CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER OF WELLA COMPANY SAID: “ACQUIRING BRIOGEO MARKS WELLA COMPANY’S FIRST PORTFOLIO EXPANSION AS AN INDEPENDENT ENTITY. BRIOGEO’S HIGH-GROWTH, ECO-ETHICAL AND NATURAL HAIRCARE PRODUCTS COMPLEMENT OUR EXISTING HAIR PORTFOLIO AND SUSTAINABLE OFFERINGS AND WILL FUEL OUR GROWTH MOMENTUM IN THE HAIR CATEGORY. I’M PROUD OF THE GROWTH OUR COMPANY HAS ACHIEVED SO FAR IN JUST 17 MONTHS – AND IN BRIOGEO WE HAVE FOUND A TRULY SPECIAL AND COMPLEMENTARY PARTNER. BRIOGEO HAS BEEN AT THE FOREFRONT OF THE CLEAN AND NATURAL HAIR REVOLUTION SINCE THE COMPANY STARTED IN 2013, AND ITS RISE HAS BEEN NOTHING SHORT WELL DONE CANDICE McKAY 2022 BEST INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S COMMERCIAL COLLECTION! South Africa’s very own Candice McKay has one the an award at a prestiguos awards ceremony that too k plave at the end of May in Europe. The International Hairdressing Awards are a global hairdressing contest, powered by hairdressers and sponsored by Revlon, Revlon Professional and Salón Look Madrid Ifema.
Candice owns a chic salon in 44 Stanley, Johannesburg has produced some fantastic collections over the years and won many awards. The most ambitious venture in hairdressing industry: the awards where all the existing awards converge, independent & powered by hairdressers. We extend our congratulations to Candice and will hopefully be featuring her latest collection in the next issue.
The BIG debate
Should you offer more
services than hair? Should you try to be all things to all people? Two salon owners air their opinions
At Hazel & Haydn we’re so The way salons operate and the much more than a salon. We’re services offered has drastically a community hub, working changed over the past few years. hard to support and better our Post-pandemic, businesses have local neighbourhood, alongside come together in order to survive, making our clients look and feel great. reducing costs and overheads. There is As a salon based in a busy city centre, absolutely nothing wrong with offering our clients are spoilt for choice so it’s additional services in the salon however important for us it is not something I personally would do. We’re a welcoming to stand out. From Hairdressing is my niche, it’s what I the outside we are community hub, excel in and what Taylor’s Hair Studio not recognisable is known for within our local area of working hard to as a salon, which Skegness and further afield. I offer support and creates curiosity. professional hairdressing services only – I Our interior is wouldn’t feel right offering other services, better our local industrial, but such as beauty, to my clients. neighbourhood, warm with an My salon space is set up purely for hair, abundance of the size of the salon is perfect for the alongside making plants and local amount of clients coming through the sure our clients artwork. Set over door. Our salon is suitable for the team look and feel great. two floors, our who work in it and the client journey has ground floor is been adapted to ensure it is seamless at sociable whilst upstairs is a quiet retreat. every step. Yes, we are a renowned colour salon, As well as this, bringing in another but we like to offer more. Alongside service from another industry also hair services we offer holistic beauty changes your business. It may be that treatments, including a bespoke the insurance rises or new insurance is essential oil service. Our in-house barista required, new As a salon owner, my legal contracts in our coffee shop, Hatch, provides space is set up purely and business complimentary drinks to clients and passers-by via a… hatch! This acts as for hair, the size of documents need a talking point which has helped us to be created and the salon is perfect this would likely generate new clients and an additional revenue stream. We have attracted 600 for the amount of mean overheads, local followers in just over 6 months! clients coming electricity We love collaborating with local and water bills through the door would rise. businesses. Our retail area offers dog treats, skincare and candles made by Many salons our own therapist, Claire. And of course have brought in different services which we have my dog, Alan. Clients love is fantastic, however for myself and to take him for a walk – he’s another Taylor’s Hair Studio, it’s not something we addition to the community we've created. wish to look at.
DALE HOLLINSHEAD, HAZEL & HADYN
DARREL STARKEY, TAYLOR’S HAIR STUDIO
adventures of a
Global Hair AMBASSADOR After finding his passion for hairdressing aged just three years old, Jonathan Andrew’s love for the hair industry hasn’t wavered since
What has been your career journey so far? At 14, I worked at my uncle’s salon and by 17 I had left school and moved to central London to work full time. I stayed in the family business for six years until my next role in the Jamie Stevens salon, where my passion for men’s hairdressing came alive. I went freelance in 2018 and haven’t looked back!
What do you do in your role as Fudge global ambassador? My role is unique. It involves areas such as product development, creativity – including art direction for campaigns and shoots – attending events, and education for distributors in the UK and Europe.
You’re now a freelance hairdresser, how did that move come about? It was an interesting move for me. Although I’ve been self-employed for most of my career, I was always working in salons for someone. When my daughter was born, I had the realisation that I need to provide for someone else. It got me out of my comfort zone and pushed me to make the move I’d been dreaming about.
What are the career challenges you’ve faced? My first challenge was progressing from behind the chair to do more shoots and education. I feel that there are two worlds within hairdressing – the hairdressing stars (before social media) and the new generation of experts who are known through social media and their huge followings. Also, when you have ambassador commitments, maintaining your client base can be a challenge.
What’s next for Jonathan Andrew? We’re planning our next series of ‘In the Chair’ and I’ve just finished a pilot hair-based celebrity podcast with a mainstream national media company. I’m currently working across three television shows that will air over the coming year and I have lots of travelling and education lined up in my diary too!
2003 Jonathan began hairdressing
2018 Jonathan started as freelance
Fudge ambassador role announced
In the Chair series launches
The perfect salon
EXPERIENCE H O W T O E L E VA T E T H E B A C K WA S H Z O N E As part of our design series in partnership with Takara Belmont, we look at how designing the backwash zone in your salon can be a true treat for the senses…
na Salon has always had comfort in mind, taking every client on a relaxing journey. Housed in close proximity to Covent Garden, the salon, which is the brainchild of Pedro Inchenko and Johnny Othona, boasts a down-to-earth, approachable vibe, complemented by both its people and purpose. “Sustainability is a key pillar of our brand,” says co-director, Johnny Othona, “and within that we are always looking at how to improve the client experience, to sustain their needs, too.” The salon boasts beautifully designed styling spaces housed over five floors, hallmarked by a backwash experience with relaxation in mind. “Our backwash is a huge part of our client journey,” says
Johnny. “We have commissioned an artist to hand paint a bespoke ceiling scape for this every six months. These are nature-based, in line with our sustainable ethos, and allow clients to literally escape while they relax during this part of their appointment.” When it comes to creating a good salon design, Johnny believes it’s about being receptive to your space first: “Our building is Grade II Listed, so we wanted to be sensitive to that first and foremost. We then made it functional before accentuating with our design detail.” And what about colour palettes? “We used earthy tones, with accents of colour, such as our original stained glass window and hand-painted ceiling scapes.” So why Takara Belmont? “Form and function are key elements of design for us. We
DON’T MISS… …our monthly The Perfect Salon
OUR BUILDING IS GRADE II LISTED, SO WE WANTED TO BE SENSITIVE TO THAT FIRST AND FOREMOST
Experience features. Each issue we look at a different aspect of salon design, from adding a spa element to your space to creating a private area for VIP guests.
were drawn to the sensitive design of its products; salon furniture has to be in line with your brand and for us, Takara Belmont was the perfect partnership.” According to Johnny, upping your backwash game makes sense in more ways than one: “Being in tune with the five senses is key to influencing client experience. Everything from the sound to the smell must complement, not clash, and if you’re thinking of creating more of a backwash ‘zone’ look at how you can maximise space, create a point of difference and appeal to the senses somehow.” So whether it’s via the scents you use, the texture of the towels, or functionality of the furniture,always appeal to the senses. And if done correctly, it will all combine to create a stylish symphony of both comfort and joy.
Recreate the look Ena Salon is all about sophistication. Get the look by choosing the Eos styling chair. With natural textures and tones, this experience-led chair includes features such as removable or replacable cushions and a Brindle or Rosewood backrest. Meanwhile the RS Prime is perfectly suited to salons who want to deliver maximum comfort, even with limited space. Its removable gel-filled neck cushion cradles the client’s head in comfort. Along with thermostatic control that regulates water pressure and temperature, and a free-swiveling shower-head with retracting cord, a premium service is assured every time. See more at www.takarahairdressing.co.uk
Procrastination Working in the industry can be a struggle, so it’s important for salon owners to take steps to avoid feeling overwhelmed, writes Phil Jackson
Business can be brutal, life can be challenging, and feeling overwhelmed can be a frequent struggle for those in the salon industry. But many salon owners are making things worse for themselves. That’s because, on the surface, their overwhelm looks like procrastination. Perhaps your goals are a little woolly. Maybe you’re inattentive or you seek distraction when working. Or it could be that you’re inventing excuses to refrain from doing things. If this sounds familiar, you’re procrastinating. Eliminate distractions, switch off notifications and find the best time of day to focus on your work. Rekindle the passion for the task by reconnecting with the reason behind it. Getting more organised can help with procrastination. A good way to do this is to schedule your tasks and break them down into smaller chunks. But trying to deal with overwhelm in the same way, is a recipe for disaster. Imagine you have
Phil Jackson is an international business coach with 20 years in the salon industry. With a passion for innovation, Phil offers a unique perspective on the challenges of salon ownership.
a friend that feels small, alone, irritable and is showing physical symptoms of overwhelm. You wouldn’t treat that person with discouragement or discipline, yet we are constantly treating ourselves this way. So many of us are over critical with the way we repeatedly speak to ourselves, which is beyond anything we would dare say to someone else. Yet this continual chipping away of our own self-esteem has long-term effects and can be devastating if you are feeling overwhelmed. The better approach is to increase the time and effort you put into self-care to reduce anxiety. Try to identify what is at the root of those feelings of fear. Break down overwhelming tasks into smaller chunks. Celebrate each time you make progress. Delegate as much as you can to your team or outsourcers. But most importantly, be kind to yourself.
WE ARE BARBERS BY TRADE AND CREATORS BY NATURE. TOGETHER WE’VE CREATED A BRAND TO REWRITE THE STANDARDS OF GROOMING.
THIS IS OUR STATEMENT. WHAT’S YOURS?
TRAVELING BARBER, PHOTOGRAPHER & FILMMAKER
AWARD-WINNING BARBER, EDUCATOR & CONTENT CREATOR
SESSION BARBER, PLATFORM EDUCATOR & CREATIVE DIRECTOR
@STMNTGROOMING STMNTGROOMING.COM CONTACT US ON ZACUSTOMERSUPPORT@HENKEL.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION.
TOM CONNELL FOR DAVINES
Don’t let your colour clients fall under the hypnotic spell of social media – read on to find out how to prevent false colour expectations during the summer months Words by: Keysha Davis Social media can be both a blessing and a curse. Platforms like Instagram and Pinterest have proven to be invaluable in providing endless hairstyle inspiration, spotlighting styles, and giving us a front row seat to all the emerging trends. While these are all positive aspects, like most things, there are some downsides. Clients now mistakenly think they can achieve any colour that pops up on their
CLIENTS NOW MISTAKENLY THINK THEY CAN ACHIEVE ANY COLOUR THAT POPS UP ON THEIR TIMELINE feed or timeline, regardless of their hair type or the condition of their mane. So, with the help of hair experts we delve into some of the common misconceptions you’ll have seen or heard from your customers when it comes to their summer colour aspirations.
CLIENT EXPECTATION: “I can go from dark to blonde in one day” THE REALITY: Many clients fall into the trap of thinking that they can achieve a dramatic transformation in one sitting. Ellie Smith, from Smith England, reminds us: “In order for hair to go from dark to light, it has to go through each undertone and be lifted to a blonde. Unless they have a team of hairdressers, 10 hours in the day and big budget, clients won’t be able to achieve dark to light in one sitting. It takes from 3-5 sittings to go from dark to light. This means if a client comes into the salon with dark brown hair, depending on how hair lifts, they might leave the salon with a light brown, sometimes orange tone. We recommend our clients maintain colour at home with conditioning treatments, such as Wella Colour Fresh Mask in Pearl Blonde.” CLIENT EXPECTATION: “It’s okay to forgo colour safety rules for the ‘Gram”
Colour THE REALITY: Any reputable salon will put safety before style, which can be frustrating for clients who are keen to replicate the 20 second before and after hair transformation they’ve seen on Tik Tok. Manic Panic UK ambassador, Verity Clarke, says: “Social media is fantastic for inspiration – clients have an infinite amount of images to browse. However, in the same way that we’re all hyper-aware that bodies can be manipulated with position and lighting, so too can hair colours. As stylists we have a responsibility to show ‘real life’ looks as well as perfectly styled and lit images.” CLIENT EXPECTATION: “Being in the sun, or swimming in the sea won’t affect my colour” THE REALITY: We know chlorine and sea water can be extremely damaging to their hair, and when you consider the fact that colour treated hair is often more porous, it can be a recipe for disaster. Glen Burr at Andrew Jose says, “I’d advise all my clients to have a pre and post-treatment prior to sunbathing or swimming and remind them that they must cleanse the hair to remove sea salt or pool chlorine, this is essential as sea salt and chlorine will damage colour. Revlon Professional
Eksperience Sun Pro Keratin Spray can be used as a top-up when lying in the sun.” CLIENT EXPECTATION: “I don’t have to do much colour upkeep during the summer months” THE REALITY: Remind clients that they must stay committed to post-colour treatments both in salon and at home to ensure their hair remains healthy and looking its best. Jamie Benny at Hare & Bone offers the following advice: “Why not glaze hair with Goldwell Colorance Gloss Tones – it gives a super-charged level of shine. It’s a great service to offer clients to refresh colour between highlights and balayage services.” CLIENT EXPECTATION: “I want this colour for my holiday – next week” THE REALITY: “What a client wants isn’t always possible straight away, or sometimes isn’t possible at all depending on the client’s natural colour, and what they have been using at home,” explains Dylan McConnachie, FFØR brand ambassador. The only way to truly manage expectations is to have a thorough consultation. Dylan insists: “Always come to an agreement on what can be done before colouring.”
REAL TALK WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY ABOUT SOCIAL MEDIA AND SUMMER COLOUR EXPECTATIONS “I launched a course called ‘Unrealistic Expectations’ because of this exact problem. It seems like each hairdresser has tried to outdo the other with the fastest time to get to the goal – it only makes life harder for everyone. For great colour maintenance, I recommend Crazy Color’s amazing Anti-Bleed Spray, it locks in colour for up to an extra 10 washes!” Crazy Color brand ambassador, Sophia Hilton, owner of Not Another Salon
“There are many Instagrammers that produce beautiful work, and their accounts are a good reflection of their talent. And then there are also hairdressers that produce average work and have a great talent for taking good photographs, hiding imperfections, using filters, and editing photos to entice new clients, only to disappoint them.” Brendan Palmer, NAK hair educator
“The summer months can be damaging to colour, but tell clients to wet their hair before going into the pool with non-chlorinated water. This means that when they go into the pool the hair won’t be able to absorb as much chlorine.” Luke Benson, ALFAPARF Milano creative ambassador
“Be transparent when it comes to the time frame and cost during the consultation. Educate clients when it comes to celebrity colour transformations that seem too good to be true. Dan Spiller, JOICO colour ambassador
for Europe, UK and Ireland “We keep blondes warm and rich in the summer, as the sun can be damaging. Our clients are still blonde babes, but hues are carefully chosen so the colour doesn’t race away in the harsh rays.” Lisa Shepherd, Balmain Hair UK ambassador
Colour NOTES Music
This month we quizzed Gunel Kelly, salon owner and hairstylist from Harness & Mane, on her colour inspirations. What do you love most about being a colourist?
I love the freedom and creativity. Good colour can bring out the best features of a haircut, I love turning something bland into something edgy and beautiful. I see colour as a magic wand to a person’s look.
like Olaplex and other deep bonding and restructuring treatments. As a stylist I know how important these in-between services are and it saddens me that it is a luxury service some can’t afford. So, my challenge as a stylist is not to give a free treatment to every client I like.
Where do you go for your colour inspiration?
What’s been your most memorable colour consultation?
I see inspiration everywhere, in food, nature, seasons, alternative fashion magazines, fashion events and in particular, alternative clubbing. You see a lot of well put together outfits and colour schemes which gives me inspiration when applying to my creations.
I’ve had plenty of eccentric clients through my chair, but my most memorable consultation was my 4-year-old son asking me to cut his hair long and colour it black so he can look like Captain Hook.
What are your favourite colouring techniques?
I’m most proud of my wig exhibition – ‘LA DOLCE VITA – Tales of Rebellious Wigs’. I coloured seven wigs into different colour schemes to represent different personas. It inspired a lot of future colour work for the whole team in the salon.
I’m a bit of a backcombed highlight addict right now. It gives you great brightness and ages well for the client with that ‘lived-in’ diffused root look. It can work well for bright blondes or for those clients with light vivids that require a super light base but don’t want to be tied to my chair every six weeks for bleach regrowth.
What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion? Untoned bleached highlights. I’m pleased to see a lot more stylists are toning their blondes into prettier colours.
Are there any colouring trends you’d like to bring back? I’d like dip dye to come back, done nicely it’s such a striking technique. I don’t think it was around for long enough before ombre took over, followed soon after by balayage. Cocktails
What are the challenges facing colourists right now? Due to the pandemic, clients are going for the bare minimum to achieve their looks and cutting out on extra services
What colour creation makes you most proud?
What do you enjoy most about your job? Nothing excites me more than when ‘that’ client comes in and asks for a complete change. While it’s exciting to dye virgin hair into a rainbow, it also takes patience, expertise and lots of perseverance. I love the trust they have in me. Generally, I love giving clients something they can enjoy for many months like classical highlighting, transformations and timeless balayages.
What advice would you give to a trainee colourist? When I was a young stylist, I shied away from styles that I found challenging or wasn’t confident in. Through experience I discovered the best approach is to dive in, find out who is the best in these areas and learn from them. Then you need to practice, just believe in yourself and go for it!
Is this relevant to the SA Congratulations on being named Patron of Honour what will you be doing with this role?
Andrew: I’m really looking forward to working with the Council and industry leaders to achieve the ambition of the Hair & Barber Council. It’s a huge responsibility but I’m thrilled to have received so much industry support.
Why do you believe that hairdressers and barbers should get behind mandatory registration? Andrew: The Council’s main aim is to give the industry one voice and unify the sector behind the Act of Parliament, with all hairdressers and barbers united together with all industry organisations. One voice, one body that avoids fragmentation and gives us the power to present and negotiate with Government and beyond.
What’s your message to those who aren’t interested? Andrew: Change is always about progress, commitment and dedication. We are all concerned about under qualified practice and the pursuit of raising standards. Registration recognises best practice through qualification and unqualified stylists do not best represent the industry. I believe it will help with staff retention, career progression and attracting the right calibre of people.
How frustrating is it
to see the hairdressing industry not taken seriously by Government? Andrew: I think the industry would be taken more seriously if we were state registered, just like so many other professions. I think the support during the pandemic would have been very different. I’ve been an advocate of education and qualification throughout my career through apprenticeships and through my ABLE scholarship programme for further education colleges.
It’s been a tough few years for hairdressing,
An interesting take on the industry in the UK and where it is going. Does it resonate with you? We spoke to Hair & Barber Council Patron of Honour Andrew Barton and registrar Keith Conniford where is the industry right now? Keith: The industry has had many challenges to get through, and now we have the cost-of-living crisis. Successive Governments have historically overlooked our sector. Whilst we are in a much better place with Government now than ever before, and we have regular meetings with Ministers, without a unified sector I fear things will never get to where I believe the industry needs to be.
You’re looking for the hairdressing and barbering industry to be registered, what does this mean? Keith: It means many things; protection of the sector moving forward, raising of agreed industry standards, industry run by industry,
unity of the whole sector, hugely strengthened position/platform with Government, much heightened awareness of the fantastic career possibilities to parents, much raised perception for the public of our sector, addressing the VAT disparity, being able to charge the prices we are worth, clamping down on the non-trained/non-experienced element of the sector, recruitment and retention of staff, greater scrutiny of short courses, creating an equal platform for all (salon/barber shop based, freelance etc) and so on. In short, ensuring our great industry is recognised by all for the professionals we truly are.
What does the future hold for the industry? What do you think are the most pressing issues? Keith: I think there are a lot of issues we need to deal with; for example, the ‘under the radar’ hairdressing and barbering services being undertaken, in many cases by untrained and unqualified individuals, the training funding crisis and the Government’s position to mainly fund 16–18-year-olds, to ensure better training and upskilling, to have a much stronger emphasis on the marketing of our industry, the staffing crisis and on-going financial pressures.
What’s involved with registration? Keith: It is currently voluntary, and you can become state registered by logging on to our website; www.haircouncil.org.uk. Having proven your qualifications and experience you will be added to the professional register for hairdressers and barbers in the UK as a ‘Professional Hairdresser/barber’. You are then entitled under the Act of Parliament to use official letters after your name; either SRH (State Registered Hairdresser) or SRB (State Registered Barber). By joining the register, your status as a ‘professional’ is enhanced to your customers and peers alike and greatly supports the work and future of the industry.
A brief introduction
When it comes to hair types, hair is broadly divided into four categories: straight (type 1), wavy (type 2), curly (type 3) and coily (type 4). The hair’s shape is determined by the shape of the hair follicle itself, which can determine different shapes and sizes. Straight hair emerges from a round follicle, while wavy and curly hair emerges from oval or twisted oval follicles. The more oval the follicle, the more curly the hair. Follicles also play a role in the hair’s thickness (texture) – the thicker the strand of hair, the larger the follicle. Thus, a person’s hair type is dependent on the shape of the hair follicle itself. Most people with textured hair have a combination of curl patterns, with some pieces wavier, other curlier, or kinkier. It’s sometimes easiest to determine your hair type when your hair is wet. Once you’ve determined your hair type, you need to look at the sub-classifications of A – C, which are based on the diameter (or width) of your wave, curl or coil pattern. In essence, type A’s have a wider pattern size, type B’s medium and type C’s the smallest of the lot.
Hair types 3 and 4 are sometimes the trickiest to identify; type 3 curly hair ranges from loose curls to springs to corkscrew shapes. When type 3 hair is wet, the curls often look wavy, but take on a tighter swirl shape when they are air dried. The Types
curls. This hair type may be naturally dry and the curls are prone to shrinkage depending on the porosity of the hair .
Type 3A Type 3A curls are some of the easiest curls to manage. These are usually large, soft curls that roll down from the crown and are bouncy and soft to the touch.
Type 4B Type 4B curls are dense and characterised by a tiny zig-zag pattern, which may be accompanied by compressed and s-shaped coils.
Type 3B Type 3B curls are more defined than 3A. Resembling springy ringlets or corkscrews, this hair type appears full and bouncy, but is vulnerable to frizz and breakage.
Type 4C Similar to type 4B textures, type 4C coils are the most fragile of all curl patterns and have a very tight zig-zag shape. This hair type is most prone to breakage, dryness and shrinkage, therefore lots of moisture is needed.
Type 3C Type 3C curls resemble tight corkscrews. Strands are densely packed together, and this hair type is prone to plenty of natural volume. Type 3C curls are prone to frizz. So how does type 3 differ from type 4? Type 4 (kinky or coily) curls can have a compact zig-zag pattern, or tightly-wound s-shaped online@saloninternational
Type 4A Type 4A hair is dense and springy with distinctly-shaped s-patterned curls in tight rings.
The key to managing curls is to find a hair care regime that offers adequate moisturisation and nourishment, to ensure soft, hydrated and manageable curls. There are several ranges on the market, including the Perfect Hair Mango & Marula Hair Care Range, a proudly South African brand.
The perfect salon
HOW TO CREATE A WELCOMING RECEPTION AREA As part of our experiential design series in partnership with Takara Belmont, we look at how designing an inviting salon reception space offers clients a wonderfully warm welcome into your world
ussell Eaton is no stranger to style, with the multiaward-winning brand ensuring clients visiting its two salon outposts (in Barnsley since 1978 and Leeds since 2009), can relax in luxe spaces with a home from home appeal. Both salons boast individual designs while offering the same service with a style that clients have come to know and love from the brand. A family-run business, both founder Russell and his son Robert (the current British Hairdresser of the Year) wanted to create bespoke, luxurious designs with the client in mind: “Our aim was always to create modern, contemporary spaces with client experience at the forefront, which begins and ends with our reception areas. It’s here that our
retail spaces take centre stage,” say the duo, whose combined attention to detail – and retail – works its magic via a stylish, experiential shopping space that clients walk through en route to the reception desk, encouraging purchasing as they go. “It was also hugely important that we fully considered functionality and longevity, creating timeless, luxe spaces to stand the test of time.” These spaces boast muted colour palettes, think cream, wood and shades of grey, which the duo have cleverly combined with pops of colour to create a feeling of calm. “Furniture played a key part in our design process,” they continue. “Takara Belmont (used within our carefully created zones, from chill-out spaces to salon floor) was the perfect fit thanks to the stylish designs, which
DON’T MISS… …our monthly The Perfect Salon Experience features. Each issue we look at a different aspect of salon design, from adding a spa element to your space to creating a private area for VIP guests.
OUR AIM WAS ALWAYS TO CREATE MODERN, CONTEMPORARY SPACES WITH CLIENT EXPERIENCE AT THE FOREFRONT, WHICH BEGINS AND ENDS WITH OUR RECEPTION AREAS
complement our salon interior. The quality, comfort and functionality are unparalleled and it’s reassuring for us to know everything is built to last, too.” So what advice can the duo offer others looking to create a welcoming reception space? “The devil is always in the design detail. Look at your available space and maximise what you can. Our Leeds salon is a corner unit with a huge amount of passing trade, so we use our window space to encourage retail opportunities with clients and passers-by.” It’s a design win-win for the Eaton’s, who love the spaces they’ve designed with clients in mind. To follow suit, fully considering how to utilise your space effectively is an essential part of creating a welcoming reception area. Once right, you’ll be assured that every client will receive a warm reception.
Recreate the look Upscale every welcome with the Pandora Front of House Reception Desk. Understated in its design with a soft LED light surround and storage for an organised reception space, customise to your salon interior from natural Oak, dark Oak or natural Walnut wood veneer options. Price: £1,490, with Lease Purchase options from just £8.17 per week. As one of two waiting chairs from Takara Belmont’s globally successful Zen range, Shiki Waiting is an ideal complement to the Shiki styling chair. It ensures complete comfort as your clients wait. With natural upholstery colours and textures, Shiki Waiting brings elegance to every waiting area. Price: £620, with Lease Purchase options from just £3.59 per week.
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Who says style can’t be fun and sophisticated?
HAIR: DEXTER DAPPER JOHNSON ASSISTANTS: TOM NASH AND JED HORNE WESTON MAKE-UP: AMANDA LEO STYLING: STEPHEN HEALY PHOTOGRAPHY: KEVIN LUCHMUN
“This was the first time I had shot a men’s collection in three years. Postpandemic I just wanted to get back to doing what I do best – and that’s male grooming. I created a collection with a variety of cutting techniques, finishes and styles, and styled the shoot with my own clothes.” Dexter Dapper Johnson
Modern HISTORY Tucked away in a private and secluded mews, only a short walk from Winchester High Street is Giuseppe Manco – a 17th-century revamp
his salon is a blend of Giuseppe Manco’s culture, marrying the original features of the building’s old English history with Giuseppe’s ‘no rush’ Italian approach to his clients. After moving to the UK from Italy, he spent time building a loyal client base, fostering an excellent reputation and shaping his vision for his own salon while at a top Winchester salon. Giuseppe and his wife Veronika
Murugina fell in love with this space at first sight. Adorned with features from its humble beginning as a 17thcentury carriage manufacturers, the couple were eager to retain the history in the final renovation. That meant preserving the doors, the flooring in the reception and the spiral staircase. The journey begins as the client enters the reception where “they are served a refreshing drink and given time to leave their thoughts
“The salon is designed for people who value an individual and personalised experience, in fact our services have all the hallmarks of a leisurely Mediterranean lunch” KEY FACTS Name: Giuseppe Manco Address: 10 Charlecote Mews, Staple Gardens, Winchester, Hampshire, SO23 8SR Owner/s: Giuseppe Manco and Veronika Murugina Size: 908sqft How long have you been in the premises: Since June 2021 How many staff: 5 Budget: £50,000
behind,” says Giuseppe. The area is filled with candles and aroma lamps that emit a relaxing lavender scent and a deep, rich blue adorns the walls (Farrow & Ball’s Inchyra Blue). As the client walks through to the styling area, the wall colour progresses into a lighter, softer shade of blue, and fades to an even lighter blue in the backwash area. This colour choice reflects how each client should feel after their appointment – lighter, uplifted and revitalised. Giuseppe and Veronika chose four REM Pietranera Vento Styling Chairs, and although Giuseppe and Veronika are planning to introduce more, the limited number of chairs mirrors their Italian, ‘no rush’ approach. “The salon is
designed for people who value an individual and personalised experience, in fact our services have all the hallmarks of a leisurely Mediterranean lunch,” says Giuseppe, “the team dedicates time and love to each client.” Finally, the intimate backwash area currently includes two basins, however, the couple also hopes to expand to three in the near future. This space features the lightest wall colour of the whole salon, as well as invigorating lights that leave the client feeling refreshed. Giuseppe believes that hairdressing is more than cut and colour, and it’s clear that him and his team spent a lot of time designing an experience that cares for the client.
GIUSEPPE’S TOP TIPS
Think about the client's journey through the salon. Focus on the emotions the client will feel during their appointment.
Don’t compromise. Keep looking until you find a salon that you fall in love with.
Think about the dynamics of your space. It’s important to understand how to arrange your sections.
Simple, understated, wearable – this is hair that helps clients celebrate their true selves through authentically gorgeous hair 30
“As hairdressers, there really is nothing better than making your clients feel amazing and confident, and using that theme for the inspiration behind our shoot was so lovely. The power of beautifully authentic and wearable hair really is exceptional and I absolutely loved bringing our visions of that to life for this shoot.” Melissa Timperley, salon owner
HAIR: ED MASCARENHAS, EDS HAIR, KATIE MULCAHY, PAINT & POWDER, NIAMH KAVANAGH, GYPSY ROSE HAIR, CHARLIE COOPER, COOPER & THE HARE CREATIVE DIRECTOR: MELISSA TIMPERLEY FOR AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, MAKE-UP: KARL DICKEY, STYLING: RYAN KAY, PHOTOGRAPHY: JOSEPH SCANLON
Life LENS THROUGH A
Avant-Garde Hairdresser of the Year, Emmanuel is known for his ingenious and visionary hairstyles, here he shares his seven favourite images
This look was inspired from a ceramic artist Leah Caplan who creates insane textures in her work.
Loud and Proud
This look took me a long time to achieve. I wanted to produce a look that was inspired by a style of dress created by designer Iris Van Herpen.
I love this shot, this texture along with the colour match have never been done before and has not yet been recreated, which is the goal when creating an Avant-Garde look.
This was my proudest shoot yet. I had to weave the hair similarly to how you would weave a carpet. It was difficult to achieve, but I loved the final look.
Up, Up and Away
It was a blast creating this look for Diva for our first ever campaign together. I envisioned an antigravity style and wanted the hair to appear as if it were floating.
In the Wild
This shot was inspired by a range of paintings. Funnily, I painted this design on the day of the shoot just 20 minutes before this shot was taken so I could see my vision clearer.
So much went into this image. I created this dramatic look and it has since been featured on a magazine front cover which was a very proud moment of mine.
We hope that you have enjoyed this edition of Salon International Magazine
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