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AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE September 2021 | probeauty.co.za

In this issue... SALON DO’S & DON’TS SKIN OBESITY BIOPHILIC DESIGN IN SPAS


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CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 9

32

Industry news

33

Crowning glory

Local and international news

In the market

New products

Latest product launches

Business 16

Spa Focus 24

Ask the experts

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The greatest evolution starts with you

All your questions answered

A mindful move into conscious wellness

Achieving success with

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The ‘Slender’ route

Saxon Spa’s’ new treatments

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Interview

Skin obesity explained

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Why biophilic design will enhance your guest experience

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Salon ettiquette

Talking to..... Paul Fox

What to do and what not to do

Natural elements in the spa

President of the EOHCB

Features

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The buzz around CBD New skincare trend

Aesthetic Medicine 34

Keep on smiling Aesthetic dentistry

31

Topical delights

CBD and hemp products

Nails 37

NailFile Issue 45


WELCOME

Cover source: Beauté Pacific

While it was hugely disappointing for the Professional Beauty team to have to (once again!) postpone our Johannesburg flagship event from this October to March next year due to the pandemic, we are at least able to look forward to a more compact, one-day event on 25 October 2021. As our lead story points out, the Professional Beauty Conference & Buyers Forum will take place at the picturesque Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg and comprises of three conference streams, all focusing on business. Delegates will be divided into three groups on arrival and rotate from one conference room to another for social distancing purposes. There will also be a table top exhibition of the latest products and technologies. In this issue, you will find articles on some unusual topics, such as skin obesity, for example. What on earth is skin obesity, I hear you cry? Well, our article will explain all. Then, there is the subject of biophilic design and how it can be used in spas to make the guest experience even more memorable. The concept of biophilic design is to try and bring nature and natural elements indoors. We have also included a fascinating interview with a former senior spa leader who is now a confidence coach. She will reveal how working on your selfimposed limitations can help you to see the world through a brand new lens, so that you will be better equipped to take risks and achieve more as a result.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@probeautyexpo

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Philip Woods Commercial Director 084 759 2024 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Manager Stacey Platt stacey@tetradeevents.com Sales Executive Ruth Baldwin 072 897 6752 ruth@professionalbeauty.org.za Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za Design Saveer Sugreem

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www.pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com


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INDUSTRY NEWS

Professional Beauty event designed to help you grow your business Managing your business, marketing your salon and managing your premises are the three conference streams that will run at the Professional Beauty Conference and Buyers Forum on 25 October 2021, at the Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg. Part of the event comprises a mini-expo, with table top exhibits of the latest wares from top suppliers in the beauty and nails sector. Says Phil Woods, commercial director of Professional Beauty: “There will be three different rooms to host the various topics within each conference stream. We are coordinating a mix of individuals and panel discussions. “On arrival at the event, delegates will be split into three groups and rotate between the three rooms to ensure that they can attend all the talks over the course of the day. Each session will last approximately an hour and a half. The delegates will break for tea and coffee, as well as lunch.”

Topics

One of the topics included in the Managing Your Business conference stream is sales and retailing and ways to improve this essential income stream. In another session, two salon owners will debate the pros and cons of requiring a deposit on booking. Lastly, staff training, as in why you need to do it and how to get the best, most cost-effective upskilling for your team, will complete this conference stream. In the Marketing Your Salon stream, speakers will discuss how to win back clients in an environment where lockdown continues and many clients have been lured away from your business by your ex-employees, who are now offering home treatments. Also to be covered in this stream is client loyalty, as well as a discussion on the effectiveness of social media and whether there are other ways to promote your business. The third conference stream is themed, Managing Your Premises, and will include a presentation on how to spruce up your salon on a budget. In addition, there will be a discussion on how to make your salon as energy efficient as possible and how to save money in this regard.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Another important topic that is part of this conference stream is the factors that come into play when choosing which salon route you wish to pursue, whether it be rent, buy, home-based or mobile. Comments Woods: “Apart from the fact that delegates will be able to derive a host of valuable information and tips for running their business, the Professional Beauty Conference and Buyers Forum will allow them to see some of the latest products and technologies in the market. In addition, it will offer a much-needed opportunity for delegates to get out and about and interact with their peers, something that has not been really possible during the pandemic and extended lockdown. “I just wish to emphasise that all COVID-19 social distancing and safety protocols will be enforced at the event, as safety of delegates and exhibitors remains our number one priority. We look forward to welcoming the industry to the event.” For more information click here www.probeauty.co.za

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INDUSTRY NEWS Skin lightening still a popular trend in SA

World’s first tool to calculate sustainability in spas A pioneering initiative and world-first in its category, the greenspa calculator provides a comprehensive electronic audit tool to assist spa owners and managers to move consciously toward sustainability in their businesses. Packaged as an easily-accessible and intuitive App, the greenspa calculator provides a robust framework of topics, goals and assessment criteria for the practitioner to process in a systematic manner. Says Charne le Roux of Greenspa.Africa: “The greenspa calculator brings the concept of sustainability within full view and provides the tools and guidance to make it an attainable goal for almost any spa.” She comments that as primary providers and promotors of wellness, it seems obvious that striving for sustainability ought to be integral in all spa businesses. “In fact,” she says, “without sustainability as the primary criteria, can true wellness be attained without it?” By using the greenspa calculator, spa operators can learn about the different criteria – from consumables, to spa fittings, to waste management, to procurement and more. A spa operator will be able to calculate their own sustainability score and see how it changes with each intervention. They can also compare their performance by category with other like-minded spas also seeking sustainable outcomes. Le Roux notes that Greenspa.africa is partnering with about 15 to 20 spas and wellness institutions globally to test drive the greenspa calculator. “This way we will be able to contribute to a tool that can benefit our collective industry. I am asking for feedback on functionality and suggestions for Version 2, but more importantly, these spas will serve as pioneer spas to activate our industry to take meaningful steps in adopting sustainability practices. I should mention that GSN Planet (where I serve as board member of its Foundation) will also participate with its media partners in the USA. In addition, I am expecting European interest as well.” The greenspa calculator can be downloaded from Apple’s App store or Google Play store for free. Its reporting functions are also free, with a small, once-off fee payable to access the analytics.

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Research conducted at the University of the Western Cape (UWC) shows that Black African, Indian and Coloured men and women are equally likely to use skin lightening products (SLPs), and that those residing in urban settings are 10 times more likely to engage in the practice compared with rural dwellers. According to the study, users of SLPs are aware of the potential dangers of some of the products. The UWC study, under lead researcher Dr Farzana Rahiman of the Medical Bioscience department, surveyed a total of 401 students aged between 18 to 35 years and who were registered for undergraduate medical bioscience courses. Published in the International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, the study showed that usage of SLPs was prevalent among 12% of students, of whom 15% were Indian women. There was little difference in SLP usage among Black African (13%) and Coloured women (12%). As the study points out, while South Africa has legislated policies to ban the sale of items containing mercury and hydroquinone, due to the rapidly growing use and profitability of skin lightening products, they remain widely available and can be purchased from informal markets and through other illegal channels. Source: https://www. sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/ S235264752100085X?

Photo by August de Richelieu from Pexels

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INDUSTRY NEWS

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011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

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INDUSTRY NEWS Top wellness trends identified in Africa Local entrepreneurialism coupled with natural ingredients and domestic products is one of the leading wellness trends to emerge in Africa, according to research conducted by the GWI (Global Wellness Institute). Other trends include tapping into African heritage, rituals and ancient secrets; energy healing and traditional healers; African plant extracts for therapeutic and healing herbs; holistic self-care touchless treatments and products for mental wellness; and ‘Virtual everything is the new engagement’. Another wellness trend on the African continent is community care and volunteering, as in ubuntu. Says Elaine Okeke Martin, president of the Spa & Wellness Association of Africa (SWAA). “As an organisation, SWAA has always promoted ubuntuism. We expect to see more support for communities and a deeper focus on the actual involvement of caring for those who need it. Volunteering and genuine care for others counteract the effects of stress, anger and anxiety. Helping others continues to boosts our overall psychological wellbeing, and we expect to see more of this.” In terms of local entrepreneurialism, natural ingredients and local products, Emmy Stoltz, head of spa distribution at MatsiMela Home Spa, notes that since COVID, most people want to support small, local businesses, and this has led to a bigger focus on ingredients readily available in Africa, for Africa. “We have always had an extremely abundant offering, and now, more than ever, it makes sense to tap into these,” continues Stoltz. “With borders closing and flights limited, the import of products as well as ingredients has become expensive, cumbersome and costly in terms of time.” Nthabiseng Shongwe, operations & communications director for Spiral Aloe Health & Wellness, has seen an increase in the services of herbalists, naturalists

Photo by Nothing Ahead from Pexels

(Nyangas) and traditional healers (Sangomas), offering support through their practices to individuals both in Africa and abroad. “Many ancient healing rituals are bringing people back to their roots and offering a sense of calm and wellbeing during this pandemic.” The GWI concludes that online meditations, sound healing, self-massage for facials and stress release, and branded natural products that offer healing properties to reduce stress are trending all over the world, and Africa will be no exception.

Face cream market set for record growth

Photo by Dana Tentis from Pexels

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The potential growth difference for the global face cream market between 2021 and 2025 is predicted to reach $7.89 billion, according to new research from Technavio. Market growth will accelerate at a CGAR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 4.15%, with 52% of this growth predicted to come from the Asia-Pacific region. Technavio notes that the rising demand for natural and organic face creams is one of the key market drivers influencing this record, incremental growth. However, factors such as the growing concerns over safety of synthetic ingredients in face creams will challenge market growth. The research is segmented by product category into anti-ageing cream, skin whitening cream, sun protection cream, moisturiser and anti-acne cream.

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011 305 1600/info@twincare.co.za or visit www.twincare.co.za


INDUSTRY NEWS Majority of consumers want to trial samples before buying product

Photo by Audrey Fretz on Unsplash

A study of 20,000 consumers conducted by beach tech platform, Odore, reveals that people still want to try beauty products before buying them. An article in Professional Beauty UK makes the point that these research findings show that salons and spas should try to push this retail model as a way of landing new clientele. In the Odore study, 75% of consumers said they were more likely to buy from a beauty brand they hadn’t heard of before after being given the chance to sample products. Those taking part in the study were sent product testers to try at home, being asked to indicate what the likelihood was that they would purchase from these respective brands in the next three months. They were also asked if they had prior knowledge of the brands beforehand. Eighty-five-percent said they hadn’t heard of these brands before trialing them for the study but after sampling them, an incredible threequarters said they would purchase from the brands within the next three months, showing the power of being able to touch and play with products. Says Armaan Mehta, co-founder at Odore: “Despite the switch to online shopping, customers still want to try products. They want to feel them in their hands, test them on their skin, and make sure they’re making the right choice.” Salon and spa owners will be able to compare brands at the table top expo at the Professional Beauty Conference and Buyers Forum, taking place on 25 October at the Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg.

Lip filler hashtag clocks up over 1.8 billion TikTok views Huge numbers of consumers wanting to research non-surgical procedures on the internet are using video sharing app, TikTok, to do so. According to research from ExpressDentist, the hashtag ‘lip filler’ is most popular, with over 1.8 billion views worldwide as of 23 July 2021. TikTok creators use tags like ‘#lipfiller’ and ‘#lipfillercheck’ to help other users find their videos, with one sound created to show off lip transformations before and after filler having over 253,000 videos. The app released a ‘Big Lip’ filter for videos to imitate an over-enhanced and animated suggestion of what it would look like if users had filler. ExpressDentist’s research findings revealed the top 10 aesthetic procedure and beauty treatment-related hashtags viewed on TikTok as being: Lip filler – 1,872,500,000 views; Microblading – 918,600,000 views; Brow lamination – 446,000,000 views; Lip blushing – 118,800,000 views; Thread lift – 118,600,000 views; Non-

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Image by madamelenamazur from Pixabay

surgical butt enhancements – 64,700,000; Non-surgical rhinoplasty – 55,600,000; Teeth whitening – 46,100,000; Non-surgical face lift – 25,500,000; and Jawline contouring – 15,100,000. (Source: Aesthetic Medicine magazine)

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g n i k a t h t a e r B nde! o l B Want to find out more? info@refectocil.co.za | www.refectocil.co.za


BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Photo by Sophie Noble on Unsplash

How do I go about performing the perfect eyelash and eyebrow tints for my clients? As the growing trend for a more naturallooking fresh face continues, tailor-made eyelash and eyebrow tinting treatments are on the increase. Tinting is an effective treatment to darken and intensify the lashes and brows with long-lasting, natural looking results. A therapist should ask the client their wishes with regards to the outcome of the tinting treatment. To achieve the best results, the appropriate tint colour options should be explained to the client. The various colour choices are pure black, blue black, deep blue, natural brown, light brown, graphite, chestnut and red. These tint colours can also be mixed to achieve different colour results. The perfect eyelash and eyebrow tint begins with thoroughly cleaning the lashes, brows and skin around the eye area with a saline solution or an oil-free eye make-up remover. Next, to protect the skin against staining, ask the client to open their eyes and place silicone pads or eyelash protection papers as close as possible beneath the lower lash line. Alternatively, a nourishing eye care pad can be used for a premium wellness experience for the client. Mix approximately 2cm of the colour tint with 12-15 drops of oxidant cream in a cosmetic dish and ask the client to close their eyes. Apply the colour evenly to the lashes with a brush or application stick in the direction of the hair growth, from roots to tip. After the application time (10 minutes), with

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the client’s eyes still closed, remove the excess colour with a dry cotton swab and then remove the silicone pads or eye protection papers. Then clean the lashes thoroughly with a wet cotton pad from the outer to the inner corner of the eye.

Simultaneous treatments

Eyebrows and eyelashes can be tinted simultaneously. It is advisable to start with the lash tinting as eyebrow tinting usually takes between 5-10 minutes, depending on the hair colour before tinting and the effect required. Any unwanted tint on the skin can be removed with a specially formulated tint remover. In terms of duration, eyelash and eyebrow tints last for about 4-6 weeks. The therapist can recommend that the client purchase home care products for nourishing and protecting both lashes and brows. Clients will pay between R80 and R120 per treatment, depending on the salon.

Pieter Vermeer and his wife Sue own and manage AMSco PTY LTD, the sole agents for RefectoCil in Africa. They took over the 60-year-old family business in 2014 and have grown it substantially since then in the beauty industry, retail and online space. Email info@ refectocil.co.za DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send you question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

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BUSINESS TIPS

The ‘slender’ route A recent term to enter into the realm of beauty is ‘skin obesity’. But what does it actually mean and how does it impact the industry? Charne le Roux of GreenSpa.Africa provides the answers. low beauty, skin fasting and skinimalism are each, in their own way, the antithesis of skin obesity. They are antidotes for a condition that, simply put, results from overconsumption of a myriad of skincare products and their active ingredients. Consumers are exposed to new product launches by skincare manufacturers almost on a weekly basis, with an invitation to try the latest technology and formulations, lest they get left behind. According to Environmental Working Group, a non-profit research organisation covering toxic chemicals in skincare, women use 12 personal care products on average a day, exposing themselves to close to 168 chemical ingredients. Men fare better and only use six products, exposing themselves to about 85 unique chemicals. Bombarding our skin with so many products and formulas and combining too many biological active substances, will ultimately overwhelm and overstimulate the skin. And once overwhelmed, our skin simply gives up. It becomes irritated, inflamed and incapable of harnessing any of the benefits that our skincare regime promises. It is no surprise then that dermatologists are increasingly suggesting to their patients to ‘go naked’, to give their skin a holiday away from any product and to keep skincare regimes simple.

Knock-on effect

We should take note though that it is not only our personal health excesses that skin obesity speaks to, but also the health of our environment and planet. The constant consumption whittles away our resource resilience, leaving less for the future. Production processes themselves add their own environmental toll, with high energy and water demands, as well as fuelling rising tensions around plastic and packaging pollution.

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Photo by Sora Shimazaki from Pexels

There are efforts being made to cut back on over consumption, by the public as well as manufacturers. Movements such as ‘slow beauty’ and ‘minimalist beauty’ are the result of consumers buying less and uncovering the beauty benefits of using fewer products. One brand, for example has a ‘You deserve less’ philosophy – with fewer products, fewer ingredients and less skin stress. This skincare brand offers only six products, many of which contain just two or three ingredients each, which are optimally designed to help the skin to perform the function it was designed to do. In many cases, packaging is also shifting to minimalistic, bio-degradable, compostable and refillable options. Examples here include concentrated hair and body products that can last up to five times longer and that reduce strain on manufacturing and waste management. Dry or powdered hair care products that use less water, also reduce packaging. How to reverse skin obesity? It’s about taking a few steps back, committing to a more sustainable (and less expensive) skincare routine and allowing the skin to rest, reset and rediscover its purpose.

Charne le Roux is the founder of GreenSpa.Africa and a longtime influencer and advocate of sustainability in the spa and wellbeing world. She has advised spas, corporates and industry associations locally and abroad and is currently on the board of GSN Planet Foundation USA. Le Roux has been widely published and received numerous awards for her contribution to sustainability. Her work at GreenSpa includes the development of world first tools such as the Green Spa Guide, Sustainable Spa Practitioner Course and more recently, the Greenspa Calculator.

online @ probeauty.co.za


BUSINESS TIPS

Salon etiquette Running a successful salon is all about providing the best possible service in all aspects of the business, from staff to treatment procedures, equipment, hygiene and safety. We asked pioneering industry icon and skincare clinic owner, Helen Bramwell, to share her non-negotiable list of salon do’s and don’ts

• Empty dustbins regularly. • Always try to make the conversation about the client and avoid bringing your personal problems into it. • Manners are very important in the service industry – be polite to clients at all times. • Be clear in your explanations of treatments to clients and carefully manage their expectations. • Always offer solutions and advice regarding the client’s conditions and problems – remember to offer products to help these. Sampling is very effective in this regard. • Make sure the client is comfortable and warm throughout the treatment. Check at intervals to make sure she is so. • Keep the client card up to date so you have a reference point and so that you can prepare for the client. Record each treatment and detail which home care products you have prescribed. • Keep yourself educated and up to date with industry trends. This is a continuous process. • Always remember to book a follow-up appointment for the client.

The Don’ts

• No bad language. • No cell phones. • No promises you can’t deliver. Be realistic! • Do not eat in the salon where food smells can permeate. • Don’t be loud or make unnecessary noise – be quiet and serene. • Don’t be moody and exhibit moody behaviour. • Don’t speak over your client. • No personal discussions.

In Summary • Be neat and dress professionally. • Greet your client properly to ensure they feel welcome. • Discuss only appropriate topics with the client. • Follow a strict ‘no gossip’ rule. • Adjust to the client’s own style of communication. • Do not be weird about money. • Always be on time for appointments. • Focus on the client. • Leave your personal issues and worries at home. Image by spabielenda from Pixabay

The Do’s

• All staff must be neatly dressed at all times. • Show clients that hands are being washed or sanitised. • Gloves to be worn where necessary, especially where blood work is involved. • Keep working area clean and sanitised. • Wipe down equipment when finished with it and between clients. • Dispose of sharp needles etc. properly (i.e. replace needle protector onto needle and then throw away). • Always be careful to not spill any water to avoid damage to equipment and to avoid a possible slip and fall.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Since 1966 Helene Bramwell has been closely associated with the beauty profession in South Africa and abroad, attending national and international congresses to keep abreast with the latest techniques and advances. Aside from establishing and operating The Mask Skin & Body Clinic in 1971, Bramwell is a CIDESCO Gold Medallist; a SAIHBTH Founder Member and Honorary fellow; as well as the recipient of three President Awards recognising her dedication to the profession.

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INTERVIEW

Talking to…

Paul Fox Joanna Sterkowicz chats to Paul Fox, president of the EOHCB (Employers’ Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty), about the state of the industry and navigating the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic.

What are the biggest challenges facing South Africa’s beauty and hair sectors?

Businesses operating within the hairdressing, cosmetology, skincare and beauty industry face challenges related to the education and quality of the current and future workforce, as well as improving and maintaining standards of operations. Another big issue is providing quality and safe products to the public, as the testing project by the University of Cape Town through the Health and Safety Committee of the National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare and Beauty Industry has come to a halt due to many unforeseeable reasons. Other challenges are slow economic growth and sustainability of the growth (if any); the changes in consumer behaviour and adapting business and

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INTERVIEW

service models accordingly as the spending habits of both the consumer and the business operator have changed to that of priorities first before any other, such as luxury. Then there is the fragmentation of business and relationships, where previous approaches to business and associated relations are no longer viable and the attitude of adapt or die has taken centre stage for survival and innovation, with the need for change being imminent. In my opinion, there are many positives that stemmed from the COVID-19 pandemic which have alleviated some of the preexisting challenges faced by the industry. These include, but are not limited to, the fact that training has become more accessible and frequent through online platforms, and businesses have been able to provide retail sales via online stores. The EOHCB is able to engage more frequently with stakeholders and industry peers about matters of mutual interest through sharing experiences and/ or ideas in order to navigate the challenges faced and through such engagements, many positive opportunities presented themselves. I would assume that many salon/ spa owners like myself within the industry have shifted their focus to reassess how to reach their goals in terms of service delivery and how to effectively run a business that is more financially and emotionally viable and adaptable to pressing needs such as, for example, renegotiating more beneficial and/ or cost-effective accommodating lease agreements.

I WOULD ASSUME that many SALON/ SPA OWNERS like myself within the industry HAVE SHIFTED their focus TO REASSESS HOW to REACH THEIR GOALS in terms of SERVICE DELIVERY and how to effectively RUN A BUSINESS that is more FINANCIALLY AND EMOTIONALLY viable and adaptable to PRESSING NEEDS. Since the pandemic, have some EOHCB member salons shut their doors permanently?

Yes, but many new salons have opened doors and applied for membership to the EOHCB.

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Paul Fox with Sue Van Rooyen of Carlton Hair

I know that some beauty employees who lost their jobs because of lockdown have subsequently opened their own home salons. Is the same true of some hair professionals? Yes, and there are challenges I foresee as many of those who are operating from home or offering mobile services are not holders of qualifications. This poses an additional risk to the consumer and so these people compromise the operating standards of the industry. Consequently, the required skill sets of the industry are going to decrease as these people focus solely on turnover and do not consider achieving balance in continual personal development, which is important to any qualified and professional individual within the industry. It is unclear whether the industry could deem this type of business operation to be one of a professional standard due to the nature and conduct within the operating environment. Another concerning question is whether this type of business is paying its dues and contributing to the fiscus of the country like those who are operating formal and professional businesses within the industry.

Why do you think some salons are resistant to join the EOHCB? Is it perhaps to do with membership fees? The membership subscription fee to the EOHCB is definitely not a reason for resistance. Compared to other Employers’ Organisations within South Africa and labour consultancy fees, membership to the EOHCB is affordable, reasonable and definitely value for money considering the variety of

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INTERVIEW

services available to members. Membership to the EOHCB is completely voluntary, unlike registration with the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare and Beauty Industry, which is mandatory by law. We have found that the industry confuses the National Bargaining Council and the EOHCB. These are two independent entities, even though the EOHCB is the employer representative of the council as a voluntary mutual interest. Reluctance from salon owners to become members of the EOHCB stems from misconceptions as outlined above and the compliance issue enforceable by the council. Many also choose to operate under the radar which the EOHCB and its members condemns. What is good for the goose is good for the gander and as professional business owners, we should contribute positively and proactively to the standardisation and integrity of our industry.

WE HAVE FOUND that the INDUSTRY CONFUSES the National Bargaining Council and the EOHCB. These are two INDEPENDENT ENTITIES, even though the EOHCB IS the EMPLOYER REPRESENTATIVE of the council as a voluntary MUTUAL INTEREST. Many establishment owners and employees within the industry are reluctant to adhere to compliance. Not only compliance as per the main collective agreement of the National Bargaining Council, but other compliance requirements associated with operations of businesses and establishing employment relationships, which have legal and costly consequences. We saw this during the COVID-19 TERS applications and also with Workman’s Compensation claims due to Occupational Injuries, as examples. It is evident that not only EOHCB members, but their workers who are compliant, benefited from relief provided by Government and the Council. The EOHCB is a constituted and registered Employers’ Organisation as per the Labour Relations Act, 66 of 1995. It is a non-profit organisation, which promotes the interest of its members by protecting and supporting the needs of employers and legal owners through collective bargaining, labour

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relations support and quality industry education and training development and regulation. We are the only Employers’ Organisation within South Africa who is a party to the National Bargaining Council and who engages in collective bargaining on behalf of its members (i.e. the employers and legal owners of the industry). Both organisations continuously strive to provide its members with a full range of services and benefits and endeavour to address the needs of its members with integrity, professionalism and sound business practice.

South Africa is in a unique position as it has both a formal beauty & hair sector and an informal beauty & hair sector. How does this dynamic impact on the industry as a whole? I am of the view that South Africa is not in a unique position. This differentiation is seen in many other countries. Engagement with informal representatives and business owners with regards to development into formal businesses is a natural progression in developing economies. This dynamic presents opportunities to become more creative and to find new employment practices. The impact drives the professional establishment to uphold and improve industry and professional standards, to follow and enforce required standard operating protocols and by doing so, creates an opportunity for the exposed informal business operator to become formal and to set the example for the next. One chooses to either conduct business for subsistence, or to also create employment and contribute to the growth and future of the industry and the economy.

How has the EOHCB assisted in keeping members informed during the COVID era?

To date, the EOHCB still attends to the reality of COVID-19 in the workplace and the impact it has had on the employer and employee relationship. During the initial hard lockdown, the EOHCB daily attended to: UIF TERS submission and claim queries; the obtaining of permits to provide retail sales; guidance with force majeure letters addressed to landlords who demanded rental payments; implementation of short-time and temporary lay-offs; retrenchments; COVID-19 symptom screenings; and the uncertainty and frustration of our members and the industry. Not only did the EOHCB compile and present to its members and the industry a COVID-19 return to work toolkit, a COVID-19 health and safety video, and webinar consulting about the Personal Care Sector-Specific protocols, but entered into a collective agreement with UASA The Union to establish industry standard operations procedures in-line with the COVID-19 Occupational Health and Safety regulations. During the 86 days of industry forced closure, the EOHCB communicated in writing to its members and the industry at least every second day on our various electronic platforms. This is excluding the numerous daily updates and engagements via telephone, email, WhatsApp, Facebook, Instagram and our website. In addition we lobbied Government to reopen our industry sooner than the expected initial adjusted level one of the Disaster Management Act and were successful in doing so and keeping the industry open and operational.

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INTERVIEW Many establishment OWNERS AND EMPLOYEES within the industry ARE RELUCTANT to ADHERE TO COMPLIANCE. Not only compliance as per the main collective AGREEMENT OF the NATIONAL BARGAINING COUNCIL, but other compliance REQUIREMENTS ASSOCIATED with operations of businesses and ESTABLISHING EMPLOYMENT relationships, which have legal and COSTLY CONSEQUENCES.

have been a referral to council representatives as the EOHCB is in the business to solve problems, not to create them. Bullying an employer into membership to the EOHCB is in contravention of the organisation’s constitution and against its code of conduct. Membership to the EOHCB is a freedom of association, therefore no-one can be bullied into taking up membership, while registration to the National Bargaining Council is compulsory. Agents from the council must enforce the main collective agreement and should an employer or employee not conform to such lawful requirement, the council will initiate a compliance process which sometimes is regarded as bullying by the industry. A designated council agent may enter the workplace at any time and does so lawfully without prior permission from the business owner. An operational staff member of the EOHCB will always make an appointment and inform the business owner about the reason for an appointment request, and it is the decision of the business owner to grant such a request or not.

Are you at liberty to reveal how many members the EOHCB currently has in both hair and beauty? No, but I can advise that 73% of registered establishments with the council who are members of the EOHCB and compliant were able to benefit from governmental relief during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Which of the EOHCB services are most requested?

How much is your Facebook page, with its continual updates, utilised by members and non-members?

We currently have a total following of 10,989 Facebook users. It is impossible to differentiate and classify our audience into members, non-members, legal owners, employees etc. Since the hard lockdown to date, a single post has reached 153,000 Facebook users, a total of 4,515 likes, and 1,025 comments.

Professional Beauty has received emails in the past from a few beauty salon owners, who were not EOHCB members, complaining that EOHCB representatives had come into their salons and were almost bullying them to join. Please respond.

As stated earlier, the industry sometimes confuses the National Bargaining Council with the EOHCB. These complaints of bullying must

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Labour relations support, education related queries, compliance in terms of the main collective agreement and industry standards, hosting of EOHCB competitions and most recently, the activation of the POPI (Protection of Personal Information) Act as of 1 July 2021 and compliance thereof. Continuous support for COVID-19 compliance is given to members as the Personal Care Sector-Specific Protocols remain in place.

What big projects is the EOHCB currently working on?

The digitalisation of the organisation and the services it offers; standardising employment conditions nationally through the collective bargaining process; being preemptive towards the National Health Insurance and National Pension Fund of South Africa and the effects thereof on the existing social benefits and the employment relationship; compliance in terms of the POPI Act and The Promotion of Access to Information Act and all expected legislation changes affecting the employment relationship (such as amendments to the Employment Equity Act and the activation of the Administrative Adjudication of Road Traffic Offences Act); and the concept and developments around A-Typical employers and employees in accordance with the International Labour Organisation, thus redefining employment and related practices. We are also working hand-in-hand with the National Bargaining Council to uplift the service levels of the council and also to conclude agreement(s) with the industry Trade Union concerning COVID-19 vaccinations.

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WELLNESS

The greatest evolution

starts with you – is it time to change?

Spa professional Celeste Peters catches up with career strategist and certified master coach, Beverley Spencer of Confidence Connoisseur, to talk about the vital role that confidence plays in achieving success After being a senior leader in the spa business for many years, what encouraged you to go into the coaching business?

I’ve always had a keen interest in personal development and helping others grow, both personally and professionally. Having managed a large operation and led a big team – spa manager at Cleopatra’s Spa Dubai, 2 spas totalling 27 treatment rooms, a spa team of 22 and a sports and leisure team of 15+ (lead in absence of GM) – it feels like coaching has always been part of my working life. What ultimately led me to start up my business – Confidence Connoisseur – was going through a rough patch in my professional and personal life a few years back. I had some coaching myself and really threw myself into it. The transformation I experienced was

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Beverley Spencer

remarkable, magical even. Working on my self-imposed limitations helped me to understand myself and others better. By seeing the world through a brand new lens, I was better equipped to take risks and achieve more as a result. I knew from that moment that I had found my life calling and that helping other people to transform their lives was what I was going to do.

The confidence factor really affects our wellbeing and our energy. Can you share three simple tips to boost confidence?

Firstly, be clear about what you want. Most people don’t have this clarity so they wonder through life aimlessly wishing something was different, without truly knowing what changes they need to make to get the life they want. When you have clarity, you are confident in your goals. You can take action with specific intentions, and when you are intentional about your actions, you design your life. Secondly, awareness of what stops us taking action is one of the key drivers of success. Knowing what holds you back boosts your confidence because you have something specific to overcome, rather than drifting aimlessly. Once you know what your hurdles are, you can put strategies in place to overcome barriers and move towards your goals. Thirdly, setting long and short-term goals works wonders, but it’s also important to break them down into small steps. When the steps we need to take seem too big, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed and get stuck at square one. Give yourself a smaller goal that you’re confident you can achieve before moving on to the next step.

Can visualising success help us move towards our goals?

Visualisation is vital when it comes to harnessing the power of the subconscious mind. To do this, visualise your goal and make sure the image you create is clear and sharp. Use all your senses – feel, see, hear and even smell and taste your success.

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WELLNESS

Why do I say this? Because the language of the subconscious taps straight into our emotions. The brain can’t differentiate between what’s real and what’s imagined, so if you create a vivid picture of where you want to be, your mind will subconsciously find ways (in reality) to match what you visualise.

How important is self-worth when it comes to confidence?

Confidence is crucial; you won’t be able to claim what’s yours if you don’t accept and value yourself. If you have low levels of self-esteem it will affect your confidence and this will show up in a powerful way in all areas of your life. It will affect the work you do, the pay you accept, your relationships with your partner, family and friends. Your levels of self- worth, self-esteem and confidence are all biproducts of how you feel about yourself, so work on feeling good about yourself.

VISUALISATION is vital when it comes to HARNESSING THE POWER of the SUBCONSCIOUS MIND. To do this, VISUALISE YOUR GOAL and make sure the image you create is CLEAR AND SHARP.

Photo by Prateek Katyal from Pexels

Can you change the way you feel if you don’t feel confident?

Words hold power, and if you consistently change your self-talk from negative to positive, you can change the way you feel. That in turn will change what you achieve. We can decide to feel confident in an instant by recognising all our achievements. When people say they lack confidence, what they really mean is that they lack courage. Produce an inventory of all the great things you’ve done. Start a ‘brag book’ where you list all the ways you have been courageous in your life. If you’ve achieved success before, then it can be done again, right? It’s a matter of choosing to do it and having the confidence to make that choice.

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PRODUCE AN INVENTORY of all the GREAT THINGS you’ve done. START A ‘BRAG BOOK’ where you list all the ways you have BEEN COURAGEOUS in your life. Can being authentic boost your confidence?

Embracing your authentic self is essential to self-esteem and therefore confidence levels. Something as simple as a change of hairstyle can make a big difference, whether that’s embracing your hair’s natural colour and texture, or tapping into your inner blonde or redhead. As a black woman I regularly wore wigs and extensions, but as I evolved, I began seeing wigs and extensions differently. Don’t get me wrong – I love the versatility of wearing some amazing styles, but I realised that extensions and weaves held me back from being my authentic self. Reverting back to my natural Afro hair has certainly been a confidence booster. I feel lighter, more energised and more me now that I feel my true self is visible to the world. It’s as if part of me has arrived home – and it feels so darn good!

Tell us three ways you have changed your own mind-set over the past year to improve your confidence.

I love people, but I’ve accepted that not everyone is going to be my number one fan. Literally minding my own business and focusing on my values and clients has been life changing. By staying in my own lane, I’ve definitely witnessed a difference in my confidence and in what I am capable of achieving. Another mindset change has been changing my story from ‘I will fail’ to ‘I’m winning’ and ‘I’m learning’. I take note when things don’t go my way and focus on what I’ve learned before I have another go. Did I mention how amazing, resilient and adaptive we human beings are? I’ve realised our success – from our relationships to the money we make – is a direct reflection of how we value ourselves. I wouldn’t have a business now if I hadn’t transformed the narratives from my childhood about money and accepted that I’m deserving and valuable. When our confidence is reignited, we tap into our zone of genius, our inner expert, the connoisseur that we all have within. I’m the guide and you are the expert.

Celeste Peters is based in Amsterdam and is the customer relationship manager at The Tides Wellness. Peters is also the Global Wellness Day Ambassador for Netherlands. Email celeste. peters5@gmail.com.

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SPA FOCUS

A mindful move into

conscious wellness

The Saxon Spa in Sandton recently introduced a series of innovative treatments to reflect its new focus on wellness and mindfulness. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to spa manager, Tanya Lopes, to get the lowdown

ew treatments introduced at the spa at The Saxon Hotel include Sleep Therapy, Mindfulness Journeys and the Digital Detox Treatment, as well as new facial treatments. In addition, VitaJuwel Water, as well as collagen infused smoothies and juices, are now available for Saxon Spa guests, while hotel guests can opt for exciting new virtual fitness and wellness classes from the comfort of their own suites. The extended COVID-19 lockdown period that saw the entire Saxon property close its doors for many months gave spa manager, Tanya Lopes, ample time to reflect on the spa’s offering. She continues: “During a year of worldwide anxiety and uncertainty, we have seen a global shift towards awareness of self-care, which has revived a much-needed conscious learning of our environmental and physical factors. This has forced us to prioritise the importance of applying mindfulness to all our actions and thoughts. In doing so, we have learnt to slow down our thoughts and be aware of our actions without letting our concerns of the world affect the enjoyment of every moment.

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“During this year, we at the Saxon Spa have spent a great deal of time re-conditioning ourselves into this global trend so that we can share this knowledge with our guests and transform our journey into one that focuses on reducing anxiety and stress through mindfulness and conscious wellness.”

Guided meditation

The first step has to been to introduce Mindfulness Journeys into the overall Saxon Spa experience. A period of mindfulness now precedes each treatment and comprises four unique pre-recorded 10-minute sessions, two in a female voice and two in a male voice. Lopes elaborate: “These Mindfulness Journeys have been recorded especially for the Saxon and take the guest through a guided meditation, commencing with a welcome to the Saxon Spa and completion with a final message to enjoy your treatment. “Guest have said that this is a great way to separate themselves from the anxiety of the outside world and really get them immersed into their relaxation journey.” Lopes notes that the Saxon works with a UK-based audio specialist called Music Concierge, which assisted with putting the Mindfulness Journeys together. They also work with a team of wellness experts who created the Saxon’s in-room wellness compilation, called ‘Earth and Sky’ – a unique offering to include wellness for hotel guests as part of their hotel stay.

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SPA FOCUS Sleep Therapy

Ideally suited to a jetlagged traveller, as well as being highly recommended for those who are sleep deprived due to the high levels of anxiety or stress in their lives, the Sleep Therapy session is either 60 minutes or 90 minutes and commences with mindfulness to help the guest relax. Guests are suspended in a floatation bed and exposed to programmed chromotherapy lighting. This aids the guest in relaxing and falling asleep quite quickly. According to Lopes, scientific research has shown that 30 minutes in floatation is equivalent to four hours of undisturbed sleep. “Our bed offers a dry floatation experience heated to 37 degrees Celsius, with the additional benefits of colour therapy to fully immerse the guest in a sleep experience. Obviously these benefits are not available on a standard bed.” The spa continues to offer its existing Sound Therapy and Advanced Sound with Crystal Healing treatments as part of its menu and these are performed in the same flotation bed.

“Following a Saxon mindfulness exercise is a full-body exfoliation and a massage combining Bellabaci cupping and deep tissue techniques, to release tension stemming from digital strain. Our spa therapist guides the guest through ways in which to extend the Digital Detox Journey into their everyday lives and to maximise the benefits of the treatment. Guests thoroughly enjoy the Digital Detox Journey and it has become our most popular Signature Treatment.” Lopes goes on to explain that by combining the concept of the deep tissue detoxification one gets from using the Bellabaci signature cups and including it with deep tissue massage, it incorporates the benefits of both therapies, giving the guest a truly detoxing experience. “You do need to be a fan of the deep tissue experience to enjoy this treatment. It is also important to note that feeling pain in areas indicates the presence of toxins, so

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH has shown that 30 MINUTES in FLOATATION is equivalent to FOUR HOURS of undisturbed SLEEP.

Digital Detox

A new Saxon Signature experience – the Digital Detox Journey – is the brainchild of Lopes. This treatment allows guests to separate from their devices and reconnect with themselves through a massage focusing on those stress points brought on by the use of technology. Clients are required to temporarily relinquish their digital devices and are given a little cotton bag in which to store the devices in their lockers. Says Lopes: “This is our way of getting the guest to separate from there devices before they start making it part of the journey from the time they enter. We find that as long as this is explained, the guests are supportive in the initiative.

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although this treatment might initially be painful, it is designed to release the lactic acid for relief in tension over those areas. We use different silicone cups for different strengths in specific sequence movements for detoxing,” she comments. In addition to these body treatments, the Saxon Spa has also launched a range of new facial treatments including a La Prairie Illuminating White Caviar Facial and a LUX Collagen Recovery Facial.

Juice Bar

In the Saxon Spa Juice Bar, guests are now able to add collagen to the spa signature smoothies and juices, which not only boosts protein content, but also adds in amino acids, bringing with it a range of restorative benefits. Adding collagen to these drinks improves skin elasticity and assists in the smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles, as well as strengthening hair, nails and teeth. Collagen is also known to accelerate injury recovery time, maintain healthy joints and reduce joint inflammation. The Saxon Spa also offers guests VitaJuwel water, based on age-old traditions of vitalising water with gemstones. This water has plenty of benefits, such as healing properties, rejuvenation and support of the body, spirit, and mind, improved energy and well-being, as well as decreasing anxiety.

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SPA FOCUS

NATURE HAS A powerful IMPACT ON OUR MOOD and WELLBEING, with its SOOTHING and HEALING PROPERTIES.

Why biophilic design will enhance your guest experience Imagine a space where your clients are willing to spend more, where your staff are more productive and where well-being is boosted with healthier, happier people, writes Marisa Dimitriadis

hink back to a time when you had the opportunity to sit under some huge, beautiful trees in a forest or park, listening to the sound of the birds and getting glimpses of sun rays sneaking through the tree leaves, while breathing in the fresh crisp air. Or, imagine sitting on the beach watching the sea and hearing the waves coming in. How did that make you feel? Some words that may come to mind are happy, relaxed, calm, free, elated or at peace. Nature has a powerful impact on our mood and wellbeing, with its soothing and healing properties. It is well documented that we have an inborn need for contact with nature and that this connection is essential to our health and well-being. It is more important now than ever before as an increasingly stressed world comes to terms with the ongoing pandemic crisis. Did you know that we are spending 97% of our time indoors? (This statistic was actually recorded before the pandemic.)

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Photo by Matheus Viana from Pexels

Increased connection

The word biophilia originates from Greek – ‘philia’ meaning ‘love of’. It literally means a love of living things, a deeply engrained love of nature. Biophilic design is used to increase connection to the natural environment by incorporating elements of nature such as light, water, air and plants. As we enter the new era of ‘health is wealth’, spa treatments, wellness and a healthy lifestyle are recognised as an important part of preventative medicine. Different studies over the past 30 years have shown that by simply adding biophilic elements to your space, general well-being is increased by 13%, productivity by 8%, and that

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SPA FOCUS

customers are willing to spend around 12% more in such environments. Stress is relieved and mental health improved. Let’s look at a few practical tips on how to incorporate nature and natural elements into your business.

Natural light

Incorporate as much natural light as possible and don’t look for ways to hide it or block it out. The benefits of vitamin D (the sunshine vitamin) are well known.

Fresh air

Open windows and doors as much as possible and let the sound of nature in, provided your location is not urban. Fresh air improves your immune system function as well as your mood.

WITH PLANTS, not only do you get a NATURAL AIR PURIFIER but also a NOISE ABSORBER and TEMPERATURE CONTROL. Plants, plants and more plants

Use plants such as calathea, devil’s ivy, philodendron and chamaedorea, to mention just a few. With plants, not only do you get a natural air purifier but also a noise absorber and temperature control. Not to mention how beautiful and relaxing they are to look at.

Study results

A study was conducted by Human Spaces 2.0 of six hotels in New York City. Each of the six hotels’ lobbies was visited once in the morning Find ways to incorporate (8:00am-10:30am), once in the running water indoors and afternoon (12:00pm- 2:30pm) and let your guests and staff once in the evening (5:00pm-8:00pm) enjoy the soothing during the workweek. Each visit was atmosphere it creates. exactly 45 minutes long. On-site observations showed that guests in the lobbies of the biophilic You can create Himalayan Photo by Muneer Ahmed Ok on Unsplash hotels were slightly more likely to be salt brick walls in a sauna or observed engaging in either an active a treatment room. or passive use of the lobby than guests in the lobbies of the Himalayan salt is rich in negative ions, essential conventional hotels. In biophilic hotel lobbies, 36% of nutrients and minerals and counteracts occupants were observed as actively or passively using the excessive positive ions. It offers numerous health space, as compared to 25% of occupants in the benefits such as stress reduction, energy conventional hotel lobbies. increase and mood boosts at a biochemical level.

Sound of water

Himalayan salt

Colours of nature

Use the colours of nature. An example is a green wall. Use as many plants as possible and create visible green areas in your spa or wellness centre. If you are serving mint in tea or water, then grow your own mint and incorporate that into a wall or design element of some sort. The colour green is one of the most relaxing colours and has the ability to restore your energy and clear your mind.

Natural materials

Use real wood and real stone where possible. There is something about real wood that a veneer simply cannot copy, so use roots, logs and trees wherever possible.

Organic lines

Creating a memory

Your business is about creating memorable experiences and not just about doing treatments. The experience the guest has directly impacts your bottom line. Memorable experiences consider the physical, emotional and mental needs of your clients and biophilic design principles are essential to ensuring the overall holisitic experience. Why not put this design principle to the test and create a green wall in your reception or waiting area? Then observe what happens in that space. I am sure you are going to want to expand this design principle into the rest of your business.

Marisa Dimitriadis if the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. Email marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za

Use curved and natural lines and avoid 90 degree angles as much as you can.

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29


SKINCARE

THE BUZZ AROUND

CBD Although CBD has already been a trending ingredient in nutritional supplements, food and beverages for the past two years, it is now also increasingly being found in skincare products

ccording to global technology research and advisory company, Technavio, the CBD global cosmetics market has seen a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) uptick of nearly 25% since 2020, a trend that is expected to continue through 2024. The market is highly fragmented and researchers say the degree of this fragmentation will pick up speed during the forecast period. A recent Market Watch report estimates that the current value of the global CBD cosmetics market is over $580 million and predicts that this figure will hit $1.7 billion by 2025. CBD-infused cosmetics include fragrances, skincare, make-up and hair care. Skincare in the CBD category is mostly creams, cleansers, oils and even sunscreens. A naturally-occurring chemical compound found in the cannabis sativa plant, CDB (cannabidiol) is known to offer therapeutic benefits. It is one of the two primary active ingredients of cannabis, the other one being THC (tetrahydrocannabinol). Unlike THC, pure CBD is a non-psychoactive cannabinoid, meaning you won’t feel stoned if you use it. It is worth noting that hemp is also a

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Photo by Nataliya Vaitkevich from Pexels

member of the cannabis sativa family and like CBD, is cultivated for non-drug use in cosmetics. It contains less than 0.3% of THC. The differentiation between CBD and hemp is that CBD oil comes from the flowers, leaves and stems of the cannabis plant, while hemp seed oil uses extract from the seeds of the plant. CBD oil is a finer and lighter oil as compared to hemp seed oil that tends to be greasier.

Benefits for the skin

As to why CBD is good for the skin, research suggests that due to its oil-reducing, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, it may be help alleviate acne and can also be used for treating the appearance of acne scars. In addition, according to medicalnewstoday.com, CBD may be useful for treating some common symptoms of skin conditions, including dryness and itching. As such, it could be useful for reducing potential triggers of eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis. It is also be used to treat infections on the skin. Because oxidative stress is believed to contribute to the ageing process, it is reasonable to assume that the antioxidant properties of CBD will therefore help the appearance of ageing skin. CBD is considered safe for topical use. In a Forbes Magazine article titled, ‘Everything You Need To Know About CBD Skincare’, dermatologist, Dr Adarsh Mudgil notes that if you happen to have a reaction from a CBD topical product, it’s likely not from the CBD itself, but some other ingredient, such as a botanical. There’s absolutely no doubt that all things CBD are currently trending at the moment and if you are looking at adding CBD skincare products to your salon or spa offering, it’s very important to trust the brand/s that you are sourcing from.

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SKINCARE

Topical delights

Some leading professional brands have entered the brave and relatively new world of CBD skincare Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

Spalicious

The Spalicious CBD Muscle Relief Gel has a cannabis infused, super strong menthol rich formula that delivers intense cooling to relieve sore muscles, reduce joint pains and ease tension. This gel is formulated with hemp extract, broad spectrum CBD (no THC) and contains amino acids, omegas 3, 6 and 9, as well as 113 cannabinoids to support the body in maintaining the balance of the digestive, lymphatic and immune systems. Witch hazel is the perfect antiinflammatory and anti-bacterial, whilst butcher’s broom accelerates blood circulation and scavenges free radicals. This product is positioned as an intense, refreshing and energising massage-in-a-tube solution.

Doctor Babor

Doctor Babor Phyto CBD Cream is a vegan-friendly face cream that protects the skin’s barrier and provides relief for stressed and damaged skin. Shea butter nourishes the skin with silky softness, while prebiotics, probiotics and maple bark extract guarantee a dewy complexion. Avocado oil, hemp oil and CBD soothe and nourish the skin. The skin’s moisture level is increased instantly and sustainably after application.

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DermaFix

DermaFix CBD Lotion and DermaFix CBD Oil have taken the market into the realm of ‘natural’ since their launch in 2020. Made with the purest organic Swiss cannabis CBD (cannabidiol) oil, the DermaFix CBD Lotion and DermaFix CBD Oil are THC-free, and offer antibacterial, antiinflammatory and skin calming properties, whilst hydrating and soothing an irritated skin. Says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix: “CBD furthermore provides gentle protection against free radical damage that leads to oxidative stress and skin ageing, and is perfect for use alongside problematic skincare concerns on the skin, hair, hands and nails. “Also playing a role in skincare, but not to be confused with CBD, is hemp seed oil extracted from the seeds of the hemp plant. This non-comedogenic oil helps to calm inflammation, whilst locking in moisture to plump and hydrate the skin, promoting barrier health without clogging the pores.” This nourishing oil can be found within the following DermaFix formulations: DermaFix DermaPrep PreCleanse, DermaFix Calming MicroFoam Cleanser, DermaFix B3 Boost, DermaFix CBD Oil and the DermaFix ACC Retinol +.

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HAIR NEWS Versatility in a bottle

Elemental self-care

Wella Professionals celebrates the beauty of gentle self-care with the launch of the new Elements line, designed for the wellbeing of your client’s hair and scalp, with sustainability in mind. Elements features up to 99% natural origin ingredients and is formulated without silicones, sulfates or animal-derived ingredients. Packaging is recyclable. 021 590 3700

Moroccanoil All in One Leave-in Conditioner instantly detangles and preps hair for effortless styling. This lightweight, milky formula deeply hydrates and conditions for silky, replenished hair, while protecting against breakage and thermal damage. The conditioner improves manageability, simultaneously nourishing and softening the hair for up to 72 hours. 011 305 1600

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

Overnight bonding session

The Joico Defy Damage Sleepover is an overnight nourishing bedtime bond-strengthening treatment that nourishes hair while you sleep. Its formula fortifies bonds through the night. This no-rinse treatment delivers softer, shinier, visibly healthier hair by morning. A unique and comforting fragrance encourages relaxation before bed.

011 305 1600

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Tech breakthrough

The brand new Fibre Clinix range offers Schwarzkopf Professional’s most advanced and powerful repair technology; fully customisable from in the salon to the daily routine at home. Taking a holistic approach, hair transformation starts in the salon with a customised Tribond Service that instantly transforms the hair back to its healthy hair benefits.

011 617 2400

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PRODUCT NEWS

In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments

Guinot Age Immune Serum Esse Clarifying Product Collection

Developed to specifically treat acne, the Esse Clarifying Range offers an alternative approach to treating acne by shifting the microbial ecology on skin to favour a healthy, diverse ecosystem. Four strains of live Lactobacillus probiotics at more than 1 billion colony forming units per millilitre are introduced, Lactobacillus being a healthy contributor to the skin microbiome. These species have been shown to significantly reduce inflammation. 033 212 3506

The Guinot Age Immune Serum activates the anti-ageing immune system, which plays a key role in repairing damaged cells, especially DNA altered by photoageing. Hyaluronic acid smooths wrinkles and plumps up the skin, while rambutan Baltic extract stimulates the synthesis of elastic fibres. Fifty-six cellular ingredients stimulate regeneration and cellular metabolism. 011 305 1600

One of the best waxing experiences you’ll ever have…

Dermacare Distributors range of Elastique Hypoallergenic Film Waxes by HOLIDAY leaves both therapist and client happy after every wax treatment.

Doctor Babor Cleanformance

Focusing on clean beauty, Doctor Babor Cleanformance contains prebiotics and probiotics that balance the skin’s microbiome. This product includes an antioxidant with highly regenerative properties – an extract derived from red maple bark. Fully sustainable and clinically tested, the ingredient protects the skin, imparting greater elasticity and resilience. 011 467 0110

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Why? Because these waxes are designed to be the best. What does the best mean? It means waxes that are: • Enriched with effective natural ingredients selected to nourish and regenerate the skin • Paper thin application and fast drying time, saving you time and money • Multi-directional application • Great elasticity allowing for long patches and guaranteeing perfect and easy application • Designed to suit each skin and hair type • Strong grip on hair but gentle on skin giving an almost painless wax treatment and smooth skin • Beautifully low working temperature • Hypoallergenic formula meaning no reactions even on the most sensitive of skins

“The film wax is amazing. A little really goes a long way. Application is easy and removal isn’t as painful... I love that I don’t have to wait long for the wax to be removed... It’s hypoallergenic so all my clients love the just-waxed-feel without any skin irritations or sensitivity.” - Zaynab @ Satiable Salon Available in: Elastique Pomegranate, Elastique Macadamia & Ginger, Elastique Rice Cream Visit our website www.dermacare-distributors.com to learn about the exceptional benefits of this range or email us for prices at info@dermacare-distributors.com


AESTHETIC MEDICINE

Keep on

smiling

Over the past 10 years the technology surrounding aesthetic dentistry has evolved drastically, with patients opting for minimally invasive, natural looking treatments that have long term results, writes Dr Zak Schabort

Photo by Hana Lopez on Unsplash

our smile forms your unique business card to the world. In a world run by social media, people are looking for the most perfect ‘natural’ smile. Patients have become more aware of health and would go to great lengths to achieve their very best look. In aesthetic dentistry there are three concepts that have shifted the paradigm. These include digital smile design, biomimetic dentistry and artificial intelligence (AI). It has become the new normal to focus on all of the above when it comes to smile makeovers.

Digital smile design

By using digital smile design technology, smiles are virtually designed to be the most becoming to the face. Aesthetic dentists utilise ideal ratios for the teeth to be shaped

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MORE PEOPLE than ever before ARE OPTING for some form of ORTHODONTIC TREATMENT prior to the PLACEMENT OF VENEERS. and sized. The peri-oral area is also taken into consideration as aesthetic dentists became more involved in facial aesthetics. Additionally, the lips can be adjusted with fillers and botulinum toxin can be administered into the muscle responsible for a gummy smile. This is when someone smiles and shows more gums than teeth. Although it could be aesthetically pleasing to show a little bit of gums, the ideal would be to reveal no more than 1mm of your pinks when you smile.

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AESTHETIC MEDICINE

In modern dentistry we have different options on how to treat the gummy smile. Before we make a diagnosis, we would first have to establish whether it is a gummy smile that originates from skeletal reasons (the upper jaw being too forward or the lip being too short); whether it is a hyperactive muscle that pulls the lip upwards when you smile; or whether the gums are hyperplastic (abnormal overgrowth of the gums). The muscle responsible for this action of lifting the lip upwards is called the Levator Labii Superioris Alequ Nasi. (A mouthful, right!) You will find this muscle running directly lateral to the nose extending to the ala of the nose. If you add pressure onto this muscle by putting your fingers on it, it should inhibit the gummy smile when you try and smile again. This would mean that your gummy smile may be as a result of this muscle working harder than it should. In modern times we use a very simple procedure where we would inject neuromodulators (botulinum toxin) into the muscle to help it to relax. The overall proportions and the profile of the face is also taken into consideration when the smile is designed.

Although it could be AESTHETICALLY PLEASING to SHOW A LITTLE bit of gums, the ideal would be to REVEAL NO MORE than 1MM OF YOUR PINKS when you smile. AI

More people than ever before are opting for some form of orthodontic treatment prior to the placement of veneers. Although this will take longer, it results in less invasive treatment and drilling to the teeth. Once the teeth are aligned, the veneers can be much thinner and more tooth structure is preserved. Clear aligners are leading the way in adult orthodontics and this is exactly here where we use AI in the planning of the smile. The field of AI has experienced spectacular development and growth over the past two decades. With recent progress in digitised data acquisition, machine learning and computing infrastructure, AI applications are expanding into areas that were previously

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thought to be reserved for human experts. I am of the opinion that over the next couple of years even more of this concept will be included in dentistry. When applied to aesthetic dentistry, AI has tremendous potential to improve patient care and revolutionise the health care field. AI is being investigated for a variety of purposes, specifically identification of normal and abnormal structures, diagnosis of diseases and prediction of treatment outcomes. Invisalign, which is one of the clear aligner systems on the market, utilises the AI based on data collected from millions of successful outcomes. 3D printing proves to be very valuable when it comes to the clear aligners. A patient will receive a clear aligner every two weeks and every time the aligner will be closer to the final result. These aligners are hardly visible and the fact that they are removable makes it easier for improved oral hygiene.

Photo by Shiny Diamond from Pexels

Biomimetics

The third concept of modern aesthetic dentistry involves biomimetics, where dentistry mimics or copies natural teeth. This will include everything from biology to biomechanics. The concept is not limited to a technique, but rather to an approach that dentists apply when placing veneers or restorations. Dental materials play a great role in the success of biomimetic dentistry. Previously, a great concern was the polymerisation shrinkage linked to composite resin materials. The latest materials include short fibre-reinforced composites (SFRCs). This is probably one of the biggest game changers as it is clinically proven to have advantages such as decreased shrinkage strain and improved fatigue limit, as well as enhanced fracture resistance. With all of these concepts in mind there has never been a better time to be practicing aesthetic dentistry. The world anxiously awaits to reveal all the beautiful smiles, hiding behind the masks. One can only guess what the next breakthrough will be.

Dr Zak Schabort is the founder of the nationwide Cosmetic and Dental Emporium. With more than 11 years of experience in advanced aesthetic dentistry and facial aesthetics, Dr Schabort is also an international speaker, trainer and key opinion leader.

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NAIL FILE SEPTEMBER 2021

ISSUE 45

TRUSTY TESTIMONAILS GET YOUR CLIENTS TO DO THE TALKING

CLEVER COATINGS

ENHANCEMENT INGREDIENTS

BE SALON SMART TURN A PROFIT


WELCOME

e are absolutely delighted to have, in this issue, a guest contributing writer from Africa, namely Ameera Abraham, who is based in Abuja, Nigeria. Not only is Abraham the CEO of a thriving, luxury nail spa and wellness centre, she is also the founder of a premier Nigerian professional nail care brand. We asked Abraham for her top tips on how to run a profitable nail business. With so much marketing of salons being done on social media, it’s really advantageous to know how to use customer testimonials to full advantage, as they can be much more than just a confirmation of a job well done. That’s why you will find in this issue, an article written by a salon owner who is an expert on this topic. Continuing in our very important series of articles on product chemistry, this time we focus on the ingredients found in nail enhancements. Whether you are using a liquid & powder system or a gel system, you need a sound knowledge of all nail systems and their product chemistry, how they work, how they could affect you and your clients, and how to use the systems correctly.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Photo by Bryony Elena on Unsplash

What’s INSIDE 39

Nail News

Stay in the know

40

Ask the Experts

How to get the most out of testimonials

42

Business

Five tips for making your nail salon profitable

44

Technical

Know your nail chemistry – Part 3

47

Step by Step

Fancy foil & strings

48

Top Tech Talk Sarie Puth

38

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NEWS

SA nail brand teams up with top British model Bio Sculpture’s new Rosie Red launch is the result of a collaboration between the South African brand and former Victoria’s Secret model, Rosie HuntingtonWhitely, who also starred in ‘Transformers: Dark of the Moon’ and ‘Mad Max: Fury Road’. Says Bio Sculpture founder, Elmien Scholtz: “Rosie gets her nails done in England by celebrity manicurist, Harriet Westmoreland. One day Rosie brought Harriet a sample colour of what she would like on her nails and asked if Bio Sculpture could make this colour. The request was passed on to our UK distributor and went straight to our lab, which then developed the exact colour in record time. “Rosie was happy for us to name the colour after her and for us to do a one-off colour launch especially for her.” As per the campaign wording, “@rosiehw has teamed up with Bio Sculpture to create Rosie Red, our brand new Biogel and Gemini colour. Rosie Red tells a story of an elegant and sophisticated woman. She is both a bold and subdued red, with an underlying hint of burnt orange. To wear Rosie Red, your taste should be an acquired one as she is mixed, designed and named for an extremely beautiful, strong woman.” Scholtz points out that the hands featured in the Bio Sculpture Rosie Red campaign are not those of Huntington-Whitely.

TikTok nail hack videos rack up more than 340 million views Professional Beauty UK reports that billions of people are turning to social media site TikTok for beauty advice with videos that deliver handy hacks. The platform has clocked up more than 340 million views for #nailhacks as users search for tips and tricks on how to do their nails. This statistic is according to research conducted by cosmetic surgery information site, Tajmeeli, which put together a survey of the most in-demand beauty videos on TikTok. Germine Magdy, senior social media specialist from Tajmeeli, says: “The popularity of TikTok has skyrocketed in recent months and the platform offers far more than funny videos and viral dances. As we can see from the research, it’s the perfect place to share tips and advice. “The huge reach of the platform can often see some of these beauty tips going viral, however, we recommend that viewers use their own judgement before trying any of the recommendations at home.” Videos tagged with #eyelinerhacks came in a close second after #nailhacks, with more than 318 million views, while hacks for foundation (161,600,000 views), concealer (133,700,000) and lipstick application (104,800,000) also made the top five. Beauty hack videos are currently dominating the platform, with more than 12.5 billion views by users

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searching for tips and tricks in this sector, the report found. The rest of the list of the top 10 most watched beauty hacks on TikTok are mascara, eyelashes, nail polish, brow and eyebrow.

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BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Image by Megan Rexazin from Pixabay

What’s the best way to use testimonials?

The growth of sites like TripAdvisor shows that reviews carry a lot of marketing clout. I know that whenever I am going to spend more than a few pounds on Amazon, the reviews can make or break my purchase. Testimonials and reviews can be a vital marketing pillar in the salon business too. It’s lovely to hear from clients that they enjoyed their services, but testimonials can be much more than a confirmation of a job well done. Current customer reviews can also play a large part in building trust with new customers, who are still deciding if they can trust us with their hard-earned cash, their bodies and their nails and skin.

HOPING FOR USERS to submit reviews is A VERY PASSIVE, REACTIVE WAY of gathering feedback. Being MORE PROACTIVE about GATHERING TESTIMONIALS gives you the CHANCE TO STEER the comments towards MARKETING GOLD.

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Actively solicit testimonials

Many salons have a bank of user reviews on their Facebook and Google My Business pages, but rely on the customer feeling the need to share their thoughts. The problem is, customers will only leave the vaguest of comments – and that is a missed opportunity. Hoping for users to submit reviews is a very passive, reactive way of gathering feedback. Being more proactive about gathering testimonials gives you the chance to steer the comments towards marketing gold. I’m not going to patronise you by telling you to “do a great job” – I’m sure you already do. You just need people to put it in writing.

Tips

Here are my three tips on actually getting testimonials to use in your marketing. • Whenever someone sincerely thanks you. When someone says “Thank you” for a job well done – instead of saying ‘You’re Welcome!’ I want you to say something like: “I really appreciate your thanks, but actually I was wondering if you could do me a favour?” Then stop talking! I guarantee the customer will say “Yes” without even hesitating. When they do, tell them you are really proud of the work you’ve done, you’re pleased with how happy they are, and would they mind writing a quick testimonial for you?

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BUSINESS TIPS

• Get a system for review collection in place. If your reception system is computerised, talk to your supplier. Some systems have review collection built-in. Others work with a partner to provide something similar. Essentially it’s an automated prompt after a customer’s appointment – usually by text message – to give you a rating and leave a review. • Run a promotion. I needed to get a bunch of testimonials for some marketing I was putting together, so I emailed my current customers and promised them a free bottle of shampoo for every review they sent me by email. I got some great ones, some less useful but importantly I got a LOT of testimonials really quickly.

If you have a THIRD PARTY telling YOUR PROSPECTIVE CLIENTS HOW great you are at the THINGS THAT MATTER most to them, YOU CAN BET they’ll read the rest of your MARKETING MESSAGE. Make it really easy

The automated systems are child’s play, but if you want a really targeted testimonial (see what I mean below) you can’t go far wrong by writing the testimonial for them. It sounds cheeky, but it works like this: • Ask your customer for a testimonial about, say, enhancements • They say: “Yes of course” (hopefully!) • You say: “I know you’re busy, and I want to make it as easy as possible for you. Can I write a paragraph for you and send it to you for you to approve?” • They say: “Yes of course” In my experience one of two things happens – they either approve the testimonial as it is, which is great because it hits all the points you want covered. Or, occasionally, they’ll edit or rewrite the testimonial and make it even more glowing and fantastic. I’ve never had a testimonial ‘downgraded’.

matched by the excellence of personal attention and service … This salon is without parallel locally!” Rod King Can you imagine me writing that as an advert? You’d never pay the least attention to it, but as a testimonial it packs a real punch.

Photo by Paul Hanaoka on Unsplash

How the pros do it

This is taking your marketing to the next level. It’s more work, but can be incredibly powerful. First, survey a mix of your ideal clients and people matching your target audience. Ask them for, say, 5 things that are important to them in the choice of salon. Your results might look something like this: 1. Great technical skills 2. Friendly service 3. Great consultation 4. O pen after regular hours 5. Ease of parking Then, you collect testimonials from your customers specifically addressing the issues you’ve discovered. One saying what amazing skills you have in service, a different one saying how friendly your whole team is, and so on. I would make sure those five testimonials have pride of place on your home page and you use them in rotation on your marketing materials. If you have a third party telling your prospective clients how great you are at the things that matter most to them, you can bet they’ll read the rest of your marketing message. By pairing up testimonials with customer objections, we position the salon as the natural choice to solve their problems. Make the most of your current customer reviews to make it rain!

What to do with all the testimonials

Date them, file them, and add one to every piece of marketing you send out, put one in the footer of every email that comes from you and share them like mad on social media. I even have one on my business card that reads: “The highest quality of treatments is

online @ probeauty.co.za

Phil Jackson is based in the UK and is the business consultant from Build Your Salon. He has been running his own salon since 2001.

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BUSINESS TIPS

Five tips for making your nail salon

profitable he business of nail care has become increasingly popular over the last decade. With quirky nail art trends and medical grade manicures hitting the scene, this industry is here to stay and is getting more advanced by the day. So, whether you’re looking to set up a nail salon known strictly for head-turning nail art, or a nail salon offering traditional manicures and pedicures, here are five very simple but key tips I’ve put together to help you create a successful establishment.

Ameera Abraham, CEO and owner of The Nail Spa in Abuja, Nigeria, shares her expertise on how to establish a successful nail business

Tip 1

Set up an A-team. Investing in the relevant education for yourself and your team is key to delivering on the promise of wellgroomed hands and feet for clients. A well informed, qualified and experienced team of nail experts offering treatments at your nail salon will give you a stellar reputation and, more importantly, establish your brand as an industry standout. This will also put you in a strong position to charge premium prices that your clients are happy to pay for. Simply put, as an industry expert, you will not be competing on price. Maintain the rave reviews by consistently training your team with relevant courses and letting your clients know just how up-to-date you are in the nail game.

MAINTAIN the rave reviews by CONSISTENTLY TRAINING YOUR TEAM with relevant courses and LETTING YOUR CLIENTS KNOW just how UP-TO-DATE you are in the NAIL GAME.

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Photo by Rodnae Productions from Pexels

Tip 2

Be a business with a heart. There’s been a visible shift in consumer tastes, a one-size-fits all approach is no longer appealing. It’s important you can create tailor-made solutions for your clients, not only with your treatments but with your overall service delivery. Customer service is at the heart of every successful business and even more so in the nail care industry. Your treatments should be designed to deliver beautiful results while prioritising your clients’ comfort and convenience. It’s imperative that you have a clear policy and processes on how customer complaints and recommendations are managed. Transparency throughout this process will make for speedy resolutions and it will build further trust, thus ultimately increasing your brand value. Remember that you learn from your dissatisfied customers so never dismiss what they have to say.

Tip 3

Now that you have your dream nail salon set up with the right ambience, products, treatments, team members and operational policies, it is important that you maintain all that you have worked so hard to put together. Consistency is the sure way of building a loyal client base, as well as maintaining a happy work force. The ultimate goal is client retention as your profitability is

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BUSINESS TIPS

dependent on repeat business and a low staff turnover.

Tip 4

Collaboration is a fantastic way to scale your business by offering complimentary services that appeal to your clients powered by another brand. A great example is having a doctor who offers laser treatment solutions for fungal infections. This can provide a truly unique experience for your clients and create a new income stream for your business, as well as increasing your client database because you’ll be able to leverage on that brand’s network and vice-versa. When done correctly, this is usually a win-win situation so it is important that you align with a brand that fits in with your salon’s goals, vision and values.

of being negatively affected. I understand that not all business owners are financial accountants and that’s okay, however, you must seek help in the areas you need it and pricing is one of them. Here is a simple formula I use to arrive at my pricing: business costs + stock + salaries + tax + profit = treatment/ service cost. Don’t forget to let your brand’s personality shine through. Being authentic, transparent and consistent never goes out of style and it will leave you with a budding, profitable and sustainable nail business.

Ameera Abraham is the CEO and spa director of The Nail Bar, a luxury nail spa and wellness centre, and the founder of premier Nigerian professional nail care brand, Amali Cosmetics. She is the author of ‘The Full Set’ and also serves as the director of communications at the Spa and Wellness Association of Africa (SWAA). Abraham is a qualified beauty therapist and holds a BA in Politics and International Relations as well as a CIBTAC Diploma in Spa Management.

Tip 5

Lastly and most importantly, it is imperative that you understand the intricacies of the business. The major issue most nail salons face is pricing and if this is not done right from the onset, your bottom line is at high risk

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TECHNICAL

Know your nail chemistry Part 3

Photo by Edward Jenner from Pexels

Continuing in her series of articles about product chemistry, Sonette van Rensburg takes an in-depth look at the ingredients found in nail enhancements

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n our previous article we spoke about separating the facts from fiction and what we have learnt so far is that practically everything is made up of chemicals. So, while there is no reason to fear them, it is very important to know what is in your products rather than what is not. If we wanted to bake the perfect cake, we would make sure to find the perfect recipe so that we could achieve perfectly flawless results. A recipe provides us with the exact specific ingredients we need (and the quantities thereof), along with instructions that work together to create a cake that turns out exactly as we imagine it. If we just haphazardly throw a whole bunch of ingredients together and hope that it’s going to be a success, then chances are that it won’t be.

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TECHNICAL

Creating a set of nail enhancements is no different. Whether you are using a liquid & powder system or a gel system, you need to make sure that you consider a whole lot of factors that will affect you in achieving what you want to achieve. If you are a full service nail professional, then having a sound knowledge about all nail systems and their product chemistry, how they work, how they could affect you and your clients and how they are used, is imperative.

CONTRARY to what some MAY BELIEVE, NOT ALL monomers and polymers ARE CREATED EQUAL OR ARE UNIVERSAL and this is a SCIENTIFIC FACT. There are many REASONS NOT TO MIX and match systems.

or are universal and this is a scientific fact. There are many reasons not to mix and match systems. If you understood your product chemistry and the dangers and issues you could face and the effects it could have on you and your clients if you do mismatch products and systems, you would think twice before doing it.

Family ties

Some nail professionals still refer to a liquid & powder system as an acrylic system. In essence this is not entirely incorrect, however all nail systems and most nail products contain different types of acrylates, from polishes to gel polishes, UV gel systems, and even the tips and adhesives we use. Only acrylics, which are deemed safe for use, are found in nail products nowadays, so there is a misconception believing claims that one system is better than another because it doesn’t contain acrylic, when in fact they are all one big happy acrylic family.

Chain reaction

Polymerisation is a very important and essential process as it is how nail products work and cure or harden to become a solid, durable nail coating. Both liquid & powder and UV gel systems have to undergo polymerisation – the chemical reaction by which tiny molecules all link together to form long, cross-linking chains that become entangled to form a strong, net like structure or polymer coating. The two systems will differ slightly in how they polymerise and what initiates the chemical reaction.

Liquid & powder systems

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Nail systems

A nail system can be any set of nail coating products such as a gel polish system, liquid & powder system, UV gel system, fiberglass, or dip system (which is more of a technique rather than a system). No matter which one of the above it is, it is created to work as a ‘system’, meaning that all the components within each system have all been designed and formulated to work together, within that specific system. So why are some nail professionals still mixing and matching systems that don’t belong together? Sometimes it is just due to a lack of proper education, or due to purchasing cheap products which don’t provide the necessary support. Contrary to what some may believe, not all monomers and polymers are created equal

online @ probeauty.co.za

A liquid & powder system contains a catalyst and an initiator; the catalyst is found in the liquid monomer and the initiator in the polymer powder. When these two products are combined, the polymerisation process begins to cure the product. The initiator works like a switch and starts the process by using heat energy from around us, while the catalyst controls the rate of the chemical reaction. Polymerisation shouldn’t occur too quickly or too slowly; if it’s too quick, an exothermic or heat-releasing action will occur. This can be so intense that it not only causes a lot of pain, but could also lead to the loss of a nail plate, or cause infection of the nail unit and long-term damage. If the polymerisation is too slow, it will result in the product under curing, leaving behind unreacted molecules. This can occur when liquid & powder is applied with the incorrect mix ratio and unreacted monomer penetrates the nail plate. It can also occur when mismatching systems. There are some serious concerns related to this, as not only are uncured acrylics weaker and will break easily, the most concerning issue is that it can cause allergic reactions during removal. Once the trapped, unreacted monomers are released either by soaking or filing, they will end up on the skin. These are known skin allergens and over time can result in allergic contact dermatitis. Allergic reactions remain a major concern in our industry. Remember that allergies are for life and don’t go away, therefore we have to manage this properly to prevent it from becoming a bigger issue.

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TECHNICAL UV gel systems

A UV gel system is a one-component system, which also requires an initiator to start the process. This is known as a photoinitiator, which is activated by UV light energy. For a proper cure of a UV gel system to take place, there are three vitally important factors which are required – the correct wavelength, the correct intensity and the correct amount of time or exposure. These all have to match with the chemical composition of the specific UV gel system it is meant to be used with.

There is A MISCONCEPTION BELIEVING CLAIMS that one SYSTEM IS BETTER than another because it DOESN’T CONTAIN ACRYLIC, when in fact THEY ARE all one BIG HAPPY ACRYLIC FAMILY.

Photo by Hans Reniers on Unsplash

This is why the correct lamp suited to the UV gel system you are using is so important, so that neither under curing nor over curing becomes a problem. Be careful when buying a lamp based on wattage as it has no relevance to how much the UV light the lamp omits. • Over curing – this occurs when the UV energy is too intense and the photoinitiators release too much heat in too short a time, resulting in a heat spike, which can be felt on the nail bed. It can also be felt if a client’s nails have been over buffed and are too thin. This is a potentially risky situation, leading to all sorts of problems. Over curing can also be caused by applying layers of gel that are too thick, or if too much UV energy is used for the applied product. • Under curing – this is a very common issue with UV gel systems. One of the major reasons is not using the correct nail lamp or one that is not working properly. If the incorrect lamp is used for a specific

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product which contains a photoinitiator, it absorbs a different wavelength range or intensity than the lamp is producing. In addition, using the incorrect timing and not exposing it for the correct length of time will cause the gel to under cure. Even though the product may feel hard and seems properly cured, it is NOT! Once again, trapped uncured or unreacted molecules will be released during removal.

Perfect partners

The chemistry and formulation of nail enhancement systems have been very carefully considered and designed by product chemists and experts, to make sure that the ingredients in that system are appropriately matched and work together to create just the right chemical reaction needed for a proper cure. This is achieved when around 90% of the polymers have polymerised, which is enough to make sure that there are no unreacted molecules present in the nail coating to cause potential issues. Therefore, different nail systems will not only have different ingredients but also different quantities and concentrations of certain ingredients to produce the perfect combination, which will create the perfect nail enhancement. If they are mismatched, the degree of polymerisation and the speed of the process to cure them to an acceptable level will be compromised. As Marian Newman of NailKnowledge so aptly states, “We are not product chemists!” Using matched systems along with correct procedures will ensure that • a proper cure is achieved • the risks of allergies are minimised • possible service breakdown is avoided • unwanted exothermic reactions and heat spikes are prevented • nail disorders and infections don’t occur • the health and safety of your client and her nails will not be compromised Now that you understand how nail systems work and the potential risks that could occur when they are mismatched and not used correctly, let’s all do our bit and put into practice what we know, as well as adhere to proper practices and procedures. Education is key – what you know could save your career as a nail professional. Even after having been in the industry for more than 30 years now, I gained so much more knowledge after recently completing the NailKnowledge Master Classes and achieving The Essential Nail Professional Diploma. NailKnowledge.org is a great fact based learning platform to further your knowledge and your career.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.

online @ probeauty.co.za


STEP BY STEP

Fancy foil & strings

This elegant design, which was done using nail foil, spider gel and rhinestones, was created by Sthembiso Promise Shongwe Step 1

Apply a rubber base, then follow with black gel. I prefer any darker colour for this design.

Step 2

Next, apply a gold foil as well as a silver foil. You can use any other colour foil if available.

Step 3

The next step is to apply stretch gel. An advantage of using stretch gel is that you can create any pattern you prefer to achieve the desired art.

Step 4

For the final step, add rhinestones, which are available in any colour for you to choose from. The purpose of this step is for you to add the bling or glitter effect.

To finish off, apply a layer of top coat.

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Sthembiso Promise Shongwe hails from Nelspruit and has been in the beauty industry for the past 20 years. Her love for nail art is unstoppable – “It is my passion, my love and my life,” she says. “I make certain that I leave my artistic mark on every client’s nails. Seeing my professional nail art on a satisfied client gives me great contentment and joy as well.” Shongwe believes that art is very diverse, because it involves creative imagination to express technical proficiency, beauty or emotional power. She continues: “With nail art we learn every day and our creativity changes all the time. Nail art allows us to paint, decorate, enhance and embellish the nails.” In 2019, Shongwe attained her Conversion Course Certificate from Zsa Zsa Nails for Professionals, following which she achieved her long desired Educator License for Professionals. Says Shongwe: “Today I am able to educate and train others about this passion; it brings so much joy and satisfaction to transform someone from being a student into a successful nail technician. I have a lot of appreciation for the Zsa Zsa Nails brand for running all of its refresher courses that help me keep up with the changing times in the nail industry.”

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Q&A

Top Tech Talk

NailFile chats to award-winning nail tech and salon owner, Sarie Puth, about operating a home based salon

You started your working career as a receptionist at a hair salon in a Brakpan mall. Did you already have an interest in nails prior to working there?

Yes, I was a model for someone that was doing a waxing course and had seen a nail technician’s nail art on display. As I have an artistic side, I thought I could also do nail art. Knowing that I needed to pay for my own studies, I had to get a paying job first and, as the hair industry is connected to beauty industry, I knew the hair salon was my magic door into the world of nails.

What is it that appeals to you about nails?

It was the nail art that appealed to me at first, but then I realised that an artistic masterpiece needed to have the perfect canvas first. So, what drove me then and is still driving me today is the accomplishment of a perfectly sculpted nail, while also taking care of the natural nail and making sure it is as healthy as can be.

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How did your time at the hair salon assist you in managing your own business?

The experience taught me how to work with people and to focus on the customer. As an introvert, I was struggling to be comfortable around people because it was hard for me. But I soon found that with time and mind over matter, the struggle started to fade away.

When you embarked on your initial nail training, did you know upfront that you wanted to open up your own salon?

Not at first, what I actually wanted to do was study further in a different career path. I thought of nails as a start in something I could be good at and with time and saving up money, I would be able to further my studies. But the universe had something else planned for me. I then moved from Brakpan to Pretoria, wanting to do nails full time, and Looking Good LCN helped me find a salon that was

KEEP YOURSELF HUMBLE and ALWAYS STRIVE to be the BEST, WHILE KNOWING there is a world of so many TALENTED NAIL TECHS out there. online @ probeauty.co.za


Q&A

searching for a beginner nail tech who had trained in LCN. And so I started working at Nail ShQ. After some time, the owner had to relocate and I needed to find somewhere else to go. So I took this opportunity to start my own business, Pasiòn Nails. It is currently a home based nail salon, with the goal of one day becoming a spa. At the moment I am working alone.

How does your salon stand out in the market?

Pasiòn Nails strives for elegance in perfection and ensuring that the focus is on the client and their experience, while their nails are kept healthy.

also to make sure you stay updated in whatever is new in our industry. And, you should never stop practising your craft.

How do you get inspiration for your nail art?

I try and keep up with the trends and follow a lot of great technicians on Instagram and Pinterest. In addition, I also like to look at art that is not necessarily on nails.

What style of nail art do you most enjoy doing?

I love themed designs, like Halloween, superheroes, ‘Star Wars’, ‘Star Trek’, etc. Something that pushes my limits.

COMPETITIONS help one’s CAREER TO PROVE that you can COMPETE WITH the best of the best and also to MAKE SURE YOU STAY UPDATED IN WHATEVER is new in our industry

You opened Pasiòn Nails in 2014 – what lessons have your learnt about working in the industry since then?

Keep yourself humble and always strive to be the best, while knowing there is a world of so many talented nail techs out there. I also learnt that loyalty takes you farther than you might expect.

What would you say is the most challenging aspect of your job?

Ensuring that the clients are kept happy while keeping a brave face and not letting the bad days affect my work. Also, making sure that I don’t take everything personally.

In 2017 you were the runner-up in the Sculpting Intermediate category of the annual Professional Beauty Nail Championships, as well as the Master category winner of the Looking Good LCN Nail Competition. Are you planning to enter more nail competitions at some stage in the future?

Which overseas nail artists do you follow? There are quite a couple, in fact. To name a few – Elena Nosovets, Alina Fox, Natalie Gargalo and Lakutina Elena.

You have recently moved into educating – what made you want to become an educator?

I wanted to inspire nail techs to achieve the perfect sculpted nail. Furthermore, I wanted to help beginner nail techs to see the value in their nail education. And, working with Lea Castro and Sonette Van Rensburg helped me achieve the final step.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to enter the nail industry?

Be ready for hard work. It will be tough in the beginning, but if you really have an eye for a perfect nail, practising will help you achieve it. Very importantly, look after your health and your body because without them, you can’t work.

Hopefully, yes. It helps one’s career to prove that you can compete with the best of the best and

online @ probeauty.co.za

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AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Profile for Professional Beauty SA

Professional Beauty SA September 2021  

The leading magazine for the professional beauty and spa industry within Africa

Professional Beauty SA September 2021  

The leading magazine for the professional beauty and spa industry within Africa

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