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Mar/Apr 2014

Made in SA South African skincare brands

Singular signatures Creating unique spa treatments


Autumn/winter nail trends



Factor Male grooming

DR. BAUMANN BIONOME COSMETICS Skin Friendly • Animal Friendly • Environmentally Friendly

Dr. Baumann represents German quality and perfection.

Celebrating 10 Years in South Africa 10 years - Dr.Baumann South Africa is celebrating 10 years of constant business growth 10 thousand Rand - Dr.Baumann offers R10.000 in free products as an opening order (T’s & C’s Apply ) 10 NEW customers - the first 10 beauty salons that become CUSTOMERS will receive an opening order to the value of R10.000 FREE (T’s & C’s Apply)




Bionome Skincare Made In Germany

Contact: Donna (Sales/Customer Relations): 011 262 5003




In this issue... Regulars


7 Industry news

54 Autumn/winter trends

Local and international news

39 Treatment review

Communing with nature

41 Treatment review

A deeply purifying experience

42 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys

The pain game

65 Product news

All the latest launches

63 Hair news

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry


The latest news from SAAHSP

Business 29 The Business of Beauty Blog

All about branding

30 Giving birth to ‘the baby’

How to open a beauty business

Colours to die for

Features 14 No country for un-groomed men

Male grooming trends

33 The skinny on skin disorders

Dealing with medical skin conditions

47 Local is lekker!

South African skincare brands

58 Cosmeceuticals

Best of both worlds

40 Professional Beauty Durban

The countdown has begun

60 14

Spa Focus 19 Signature treatments

Creating unique and innovative spa offerings

22 Conscious living in the woods

Woodlands Healing Spa under new management

24 The importance of spa front of house

Positioning your front desk staff

Medical Aesthetics 60 Aesthetic trends in 2014

Latest non-surgical anti-ageing treatments

online at

Professional Beauty March/April 2014



his issue of Professional Beauty is seriously patriotic. When we sent out the brief for the special feature on locally produced skincare products, we literally received an avalanche of submissions in response, clearly demonstrating the wonderful abundance of South African brands. There are so many local brands out there that it was a struggle to accommodate them in just four pages, but we’ve done our best to include as many as possible. If you have dreams of opening a beauty salon, be sure to read Vaughan Owgan’s article, Giving birth to ‘the baby’, which offers some invaluable what-to-do and what-not-to-do pointers in this regard. In this issue our medical aesthetics contributor, Karen Ellithorne, takes a look at the future of non-surgical anti-ageing treatments. This article is sure to be of great interest to anyone in what I call ‘the sag zone’ (ie. beset with wrinkles and skin that has lost the battle with gravity) and who wants to avoid going under the scalpel. The T.E. Trade Events team is currently hard at work preparing for the Professional Beauty Durban Show, which takes place on 18 and 19 May at Durban’s ICC. This follows on from the recent successful Professional Beauty Cape Town Show, which attracted over 3,000 visitors.

Mar/Apr 2014

Subscribe 9 issues for R450 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Made in SA South African skincare brands

Singular signatures Creating unique spa treatments


Autumn/winter nail trends



On the cover Cover source:

Male grooming

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics:,

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Sales Executive - Classifieds Knowledge Tenza 072 190 4820 Subscriptions Phillip Nkomo

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Operations Manager Barbara Hocking 011 781 5970

Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

Marketing Co-ordinator Palisa Shongwe 011 781 5970

Printers House of Print

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

011 747 8750

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Demand Excellence Thalgo treatments are the result of years of research into efficient, safe and innovative marine formulations, for a unique and unrivalled Spa experience.

For more information contact: Thalgo 011 880 3440 or 011 8803851 • • Specialists in marine well-being • Skincare, Body & Spa, Mens & Sun care • Spa consultancy • Thalassonutrition • Full marketing, spa educational & retail support • Full brand commitment to sustainable development • High profit margins

Branding Guarantees Being 100% Fully Booked! Dr. Baumann South Africa Celebrating 10 Years of Business Growth

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People want to buy brands-not just PRODUCTS. Everything should be branded: You the business owner,You the professional cosmetician,Your salon/SPA,Your Treatments. BECOME A BRAND and you become EXACTLY what customers WANT.

Old marketing strategies no longer work. You need to get focused - Need to learn the NEWEST, MOST EFFECTIVE, AND EXCITING BRANDING METHODS IN ORDER TO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS, BUILD CONSUMER AWARENESS, ATTRACT HUNDREDS OF NEW CUSTOMERS AND INCREASE YOUR SALES WITH IMMEDIATE EFFECT. “Trial and error” is a RISK NOT AN OPTION. MAKE A CHANGE TO WHAT REALLY WORKS. This seminar is for people who are tired of spending TME AND MONEY with NO RESULTS and for those who understand that BRANDING IS THE REAL SOLUTION FOR BUSINESS GROWTH. Branding is the science of Customer Loyalty. Branding is what makes customers choose you instead of your competitors. REGISTER NOW

Seminar Fee R490 (First seminar is FREE) Where: 18 Southway Road, Kelvin, Georgian Place, Block E When: Sunday 13th April 2014 Time: 09h00 – 18h00 Book your seat in advance and guarantee your participation Email: Call: 011 262 5003 or 011 262 5002 or 083 458 7669


The International Ingredient Seminar

Skincare Is Only As Good As It’s Ingredients Dr. Baumann South Africa Celebrating 10 Years of Business Growth Presented by Nicole Roodt - National Training Manager - DR. BAUMANN

Become an Ingredient Expert-This Was Not Covered As Part Of Your Beauty Curriculum Recommending products based on your knowledge of ingredients and how they function will give you the possibility to analyse every product in the market and make unbiased, informed choices about what to use in your salon Having this advanced knowledge puts you ahead of your competition and enhances your influence with your customers.The more you know the more valuable you are to your vcustomers. Position yourself as their “Skin Care Guru” Gaining your customers trust based on pure facts is the most powerful sales tool you have Enhance the knowledge and professionality of your staff, enhance the image of your salon and your standing in the community Professionals In The Beauty Industry Don’t Miss Out!

The first 10 salons that sign up with Dr Baumann receive an opening order of R10,000 cabin and retail products FREE - (Terms and Conditions Apply)

The First What’s In The Jar Seminar is FREE ONLY FOR SALON OWNERS AND DERMATOLOGISTS REGISTER NOW Seminar Fee R490 (First seminar is FREE) Venue: 18 Southway Street, Kelvin, Georgian Place, Block E. 14 April 2014 Skinology 09h00-16h00 Product Information 16h00-17h30 (Optional) or e-mail: Tel: (011) 262-0302 or (011) 262-5002 or +27 (83) 458 7669


Seminars are held in Germany, Canada, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Finland, Turkey, Greece, Poland, Hungary NOW IN SOUTH AFRICA

great skin should run in the family

If you use Dermalogica in your business, then your clients turn heads for incredible skin. Can you say the same about their teenagers? It’s not surprising that a teen’s top personal concern is clearing breakouts, and teens actually spend more time taking care of their skin than any other age group! Now you can help your clients care for their teens’ skin with Dermalogica Clear Start™, a complete regimen of medicated products designed to wipe out breakouts without over-drying or damaging the skin. Find out what Clear Start™ can do for your business by visiting


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industry news

7 All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails

News Dr Baumann SA turns 10


arch 2014 marked the 10th year in South Africa of Bionome skincare company Dr Baumann. Professional Beauty asked Dr Baumann company shareholder Stephanie Konigsberg to comment on reaching this significant milestone. “Dr Baumann was created in Germany 24 years ago, during an era when global  concerns for the environment, animal rights  and the right of people to have safe skincare

were in their infancy,” she said. “I am happy to say that as the conscience of the world continues to advance in all these areas, and as customers’ awareness of skincare ingredients grows, so too will Dr Baumann. “Today it is suddenly important to be ingredient-savvy and treat one’s skin with healthy ingredients. Therefore Bionome skincare has an increasingly valuable place in communities all over the world and Dr Baumann’s growth not only in South Africa, but in over 27 countries

LPG workshops in SA Export manager Nicolas Rigaudeau of LPG France and international trainer Marielle Marechal recently visited South African distributor Decade Aesthetic Solutions for the official launch of LPG’s Cellu M6 Integral 2 and Mobilift M6. The launch of these devices included workshops which were held at Decade Aesthetic Solutions’ new Centurion Office and at the Protea Hotel Durbanville in Cape Town. In other news, Decade Aesthetic Solutions recently renovated its website.

online at

“We upgraded our website so that it has a fresh, modern and more user-friendly look and feel. Access to all the latest technology that we offer is now readily available,” says the Decade Aesthetic Solutions team.

around the world, is living proof of this awareness.” Bionome is a term coined by the company’s founders to refer to skincare products that are only composed of skin-compatible or skinidentical  ingredients. Dr Baumann’s SkinIdent range was the first skinidentical range in the world. The company recently opened its first training centre, in Georgian Place, Sandton, to coincide with the visit of Dr Baumann teams from Canada and Turkey.

EBS’ KZN Brand Ambassador Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS) has appointed Nadia Sassin as its Brand Ambassador for KwaZuluNatal (KZN). Sassin’s Nadia Sassin impressive industry profile includes owning a salon for 12 years; winning Best French Nails at Beauty Africa 2003; being judged one of the Top Ten nail technicians in South Africa; and winning the Best Nails Award at a CND Bootcamp in 2005. Sassin can be contacted on 084 888 1997.

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

industry news

8 News in brief

Crystal Towers ■ Juliette Armand uptake: Distributor Poise Brands reports that the complete line of Juliet Armand skincare products will now be carried by five spas in the Spas of Distinction Collection. These include three Life Day Spas (Fourways, Rosebank and Crystal Towers) and two Soulstice Day Spas (Krugersdorp and Pretoria). ■ Your Skin Factory launched: Environ founder Dr Des Fernandes has teamed up with writer Jennifer Munro to pen the book Your Skin Factory. Described as a ‘production manual’ for better skin, the book was launched late last year. It outlines the best and simplest ways to look after your skin. ■ Sh’Zen’s 25th birthday: This October local skincare brand Sh’Zen celebrates its 25th anniversary. Throughout the year Sh’Zen will celebrate by launching new products, hosting international speakers and gala dinners, and offering an overseas incentive trip to Croatia for its consultants.

VelaShape III’s SA first


lastic surgeon Dr Mark Steinmann is the first doctor in South Africa to offer the new Velashape III for body contouring and cellulite treatments at his Johannesburg practice. Steinmann is a full member of the Association of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeons of South Africa and is registered with the Health Professions Council of South Africa. The VelaShape III from Syneron Candela won the 2013 Anti-aging & Beauty Trophy for Best Non-Invasive Body Shaping Device at the Antiaging Medicine European Congress (AMEC) in Paris, France. South African distributor Radiant Healthcare took delivery of the

VelaShape III devices in March. Says Radiant Healthcare’s sales manager Melissa Eksteen: “With its new, easy-to-use, state-of-the-art user interface, VelaShape III has recorded exceptional clinical results, with over 2cm reductions, faster treatment times and new treatment protocols.”

Wellness at O.R. Tambo


n what is believed to be a world-first, a combination spa/ fitness club has opened at a South African airport precinct. To create the PhelaLive Wellness Centre at Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International, Tswelokgotso Trading Enterprise, an entrepreneurial black empowerment company that contracts services to the airport, entered into strategic partnerships with Camelot Spa and TechnoGym. At the launch, which took place on 4 February, MMC of Ekurhuleni, Makhosi Twala, cut the ribbon in the presence of Tswelokgotso founders Mpho Mohale and Samora Mtsi. Also present were GM of OR Tambo International Airport, Tebogo Mekgoe, and Accentuate’s Malesela Motlatla. Khasiane Mohale, a founding

member of Phela-Live, said: “We identified Camelot and TechnoGym as our strategic partners because we wanted to be associated with worldclass companies. Camelot’s Debbie Merdjan was our design consultant for the spa.” The Phela-Live Wellness Centre is situated directly opposite the International Arrivals Terminal.

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

online at

■ Boob Tube awarded: Mama Mio’s Boob Tube Bust & Neck Firmer won Best Neck Cream in the Essentials Magazine Beauty Awards, which are featured in the February 2014 issue. The Mama Mio range is distributed in South Africa by Poise Brands. ■ Harley Wax competition: New clients of Harley Wax stand the chance to win their first order for free Antonette via a new monthly competition. Entries Marais are only accepted from online orders. December’s lucky winner was B-Divine, owned and run by Antonette Marais.

The ribbon-cutting ceremony


Sun Damage

Wrinkles & Fine lines

Uneven skin tone

Age Spots

Skin Resurfacing Telangiectasias & Veins Scars: Acne, Burn, Surgical

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Celebrating the past Leading the future...

For information of Lumenis and Viora products, visit us at booth F14 or contact us: Tel: +27 12 349 1250 or +27 71 1473911 e-mail:

industry news


SA pavilion at Professional Beauty London CECOSA (Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa) members Lilian Terry International, Soy Lights (Pty) Ltd, Spa & Salon Solutions cc, Zinplex Ltd., The Rungu, I-Slices Manufacturing (Pty) Ltd and Wand-a-Brush showcased their products under the Proudly South African banner at the recent Professional Beauty London show. Financial assistance for the companies was provided under the Department of Trade and Industry’s EMIA (Export Marketing and Investment Assistance) funding scheme, which partially compensates exporters for costs incurred in respect of activities aimed at developing the export market for South African products and services. Says CECOSA Manager Adéle Visser: “This was the third time that some of our exhibitors participated at the expo and their second as part of the group on a mini pavilion. Our newest exhibitor came away with three potential distributors .

“Three of the participating companies’ current UK distributors assisted on their stands. This enforces and strengthens the collaboration between the brand owner, the distributor and potential new clients. “I would like to mention the organisers of the show as all the extra branding and marketing for the participating companies is generously sponsored by them. Mark Moloney and his team always look after us and we appreciate it.” CECOSA is a Section 21, nonprofit organisation that works in conjunction with the Department of

Laser hair removal training Hitech Lasers is offering two training courses on laser hair removal – one at the Bel Air Hotel in Durban on 4 June and the other at the Protea Hotel Tygervalley in Cape Town on 6 June. Training will be presented by Ann Wild, UK Education Manager at Lumenis. Wild is responsible for clinical training in the UK, Europe, Middle East, Africa and Russia. The training is offered in two parts: the morning presentation will concentrate on the question - laser or IPL for permanent hair reduction? A master class for experienced laser hair removal practitioners will comprise the afternoon session. To make a booking call 012 349 1250.

Trade and Industry and South African Embassies/Economic Offices/ Exhibition Organisers around the world to create an exporting environment that will promote increased business for South African Companies and highlight their worldclass cosmetic products to the global market. Another potential CECOSA group stand is Cosmoprof Las Vegas in July 2014. South African cosmetic manufacturers (products or services) who would like to participate should contact Adele Visser on cecosa86@

‘Starry’ night for therapists Janine’s Skin and Body Clinic was an honouree at the Babor Night of the Stars held on 16 January at the Maslow Hotel in Sandton. The event was a tribute to all those skin therapists who have been using Babor for 20 years and who continue to support and believe in the Babor name. “I have been using this luxurious cosmetic range on myself and on our clients for over two decades and I can honestly say that once our clients have experienced Babor, they are spoilt for life. “The Night of the Stars was a prestigious event and a lovely

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

Janine Thomson opportunity for my staff to be part of this momentous occasion. Thank you to Babor’s Lynn-Ann and Dirk Fuchsloch for honouring us,” says Janine Thomson, owner of Janine’s Skin and Body Clinic.

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industry news


Thalgo’s local première

Camille Pruvot performs the treatment


he Ulitmate Time Solution anti-aging treatment from Thalgo was launched for the first time in South Africa on 4 March at an event hosted by Marine Spa Distributors at the Regent Hotel in Johannesburg. Before demonstrating the treatment, international Thalgo trainer Camille Pruvot noted that 2014 marked the 50th anniversary of Thalgo. Pruvot explained that the Ultimate Time Solution is based on 10 years of research. “For the first time in cosmetics, Thalgo has created a range to fundamentally reactivate the cells which keep your skin looking youthful. This revolution in age reversal is the ultimate solution for ladies wanting to fight all the skin problems related to age, such as firmness, wrinkles and age spots. The treatment increases the fibroblasts – known as the key youth cells – in the skin, resulting in noticeable rejuvenation,” she stated. The Ultimate Time Solution treatment involves an intricate massage ritual on the face and décolleté area. Unique to Thalgo, the massage is an energy-lift for the muscles as micro-ciculation is re-energised and radiance restored to the skin. Pruvot added that tests have shown a 31% reduction in wrinkles after a single treatment.

New appointment at Babor Lisa Mc Innes has joined the Babor team as trainer for the Western and Eastern Cape. Mc Innes has worked with Babor for the last 20 years in various spas and salons.

Lisa Mc Innes

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

male grooming


No country for

un-groomed men Metrosexuals have held sway since the early 2000s but are now challenged by a more red-blooded and socially conscious species known as the ubersexual. Luckily for our industry, writes Joanna Sterkowicz, the ubersexual still places an emphasis on personal grooming.


prime example of the ‘ubersexual’ is Hollywood star George Clooney, who spends a good portion of his life sauntering down the red carpet looking immaculately groomed, in between campaigning against the genocide in Darfur. On the metrosexual side, we have David Beckham, who flew out his hairdresser to tend to his locks while in the middle of playing in the 2002 FIFA World Cup in South Korea/Japan. Metrosexual and ubersexual differentiations aside, a recent survey conducted by UK department store Debenhams, in which 1,000 men were surveyed, found that the male grooming market is booming because the stigma associated with male grooming has finally disappeared. Men are not only willing to spend money to maintain their looks, they’re also recommending products to one another and frequently visiting spas and salons.

The survey also found that British men in their 30s are feeling the pressure to look good and look young, causing them to spend on average £100 a month on grooming and skincare products. Research released by Mintel in the last quarter of 2014 revealed that beauty and personal care launches specifically targeted at men have increased globally by 70% over the past six years (2007–2012). According to a recent Euromonitor survey on male grooming trends in South Africa, the use of men’s grooming products is now more common among middle class men, who tend to be more informed about the importance of grooming to their personal care. Local spa development expert Philippa Abbott believes that the male demographics in South Africa with the most interest in grooming are the 18 – 30 and the 50+ age groups.

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

online at

male grooming


Industry specialist Mimmie Lancaster reports that male manicures and pedicures, male facials and shaving experiences etc. are being tailor-made to suit their needs. There are now more back or deep tissue massages, steam sessions and grooming sessions specifically for men.

Quick fix Abbott notes that men who seek manicures and pedicures want them to be quick and effective. “As with all their treatments men like to be done quickly and are not interested in the extra ‘fluff’. Men are much more results orientated than women.” Getty Gizaw of SOHO Nails Waxing Beauty in Sandton, Johannesburg, maintains that men now realise that a professional image and appearance is no longer simply based on clothes and haircut. “When we originally opened back in November 2011, men weren’t as amenable to grooming as now. Today between 30% and 34% of our clientele is male,” comments Gizaw. She points out that men are also sometimes encouraged by their female loved ones to groom themselves. This illustrates the importance for spas and salons of creating pampering packages in which couples, or even fathers and daughters, can receive grooming services together.

Hairy monster Although traditionally body hair is associated with male virility, these days not only are men waxing their chests and backs for a more aesthetic appearance, some men are having the male equivalent of bikini waxes and

online at

According to a recent Euromonitor survey on male grooming trends in South Africa, the use of men’s grooming products is now more common among middle class men, who tend to be more informed about the importance of grooming to their personal care.

“Broken capillary therapy is another service that men make use of but only a few as it is painful,” she states.

‘Brotox’ The increasing trend of men going for Botox (as well as dermal fillers) is referred to as ‘Brotox’. Dr Gys du Plessis (M.D.) of Healthy Aging in Woodmead, Johannesburg, says he sees more and more men daily in his aesthetic practice. “A lot of men, like most people of Generation X and Y, realise that they will be on the planet for much longer than previous generations, and the current 70- to 90-year old person on average is not  a display window for healthy ageing and good looks. “Men are now more conscious of starting to care for their skin and outward appearance earlier. The average age of the male patients in my practice is between 30 and 50 years of age,” comments Dr Du Plessis.

Brazilian waxes. This latter trend is called ‘manscaping’. Gizaw has found that her salon’s ‘Mankini’ and ‘Manzillian’ treatments have proved to be very popular. “We’ve also seen that lots of men come in to thread their facial hair instead of shaving it to eliminate the danger of razor bumps. Eyebrows are the areas most waxed and threaded.” Helene Bramwell of The Mask Skin & Body Clinic in Parkview adds that there is a market for laser hair removal and waxing of legs for cyclists and she has a few male clients coming in for these specific treatments.

‘Manland’ It’s often been suggested that spas and salons should create a specific ‘manland’ in their facilities to cater for their male clientele. Says Abbott: “We are seeing that design in general is taking into consideration the masculine element and spas and salons are being designed to be ‘not too feminine’ for this reason. It is not always possible R

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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This bra offers everyday chic styling and an exceptional fit that hugs the breasts and accentuates the cleavage without adding any extra volume. Innovative 3 Dimensional breathable knit fabric creates a moulded bra that feels like a second skin and embodies a woman’s natural curves for absolute comfort. No seams or stitching in the nipple area. Available in chocolate, white, black and nude (fits up to a F cup). For more information contact: Patricia Clarke Johannesburg, South Africa • Symphony Health cc • Tel: +27 11 793 2321 • Tel: +27 11 792 2641 • Fax: +27 11 792 7461 • • • PO Box 1158, Fontainebleau, 2032


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male grooming

17 in casually, as they may be recognised by their spouses or  friends of their children. “I’m sure men love having facials  at a spa where no-one recognises them.  A few male clients do come into my clinic for back or full body massages but not on a regular basis.”

Segmentation to have a separate area just for men, so the whole space needs to be as gender neutral as possible. We’ve noticed a rise in male only spas and salons.” Lancaster feels that if the spa or salon décor is more neutral or natural then it doesn’t bother men. “Robes and slippers in neutral colours and larger sizes are important too. Men tend to read the newspaper and enjoy espressos and energy drinks. Snacks should be a substantial size too.” Bramwell reports that as her clinic is in a suburb, men do not just walk

The Mintel research mentioned earlier shows that to keep up with demand, the beauty market is becoming more segmented and expanding into new categories and claims. For instance, typical feminine formats such as serum and eye cream have moved into the male category. Men are using a wide variety of homecare according to Abbott. “They are no longer sticking to soap and maybe a day cream. And, they are genuinely concerned about staying youthful looking and are generally the biggest spenders when it comes to

retail / product in spas/salons.” Lancaster adds: “The trend now seems to be for men to purchase an entire skin care regime including masks, scrubs, serums/boosters, eye creams and more.” PB

Pigment Restoration Acne Clearance

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treatments A signature treatment is like one’s personal signature – it identifies you and there are no two identical signatures in the world. Marisa Dimitriadis examines how to create an innovative and original treatment that is exclusive to your spa.


signature spa treatment is a service that is unique to a specific salon or spa. There are three steps to use a guideline when developing such a treatment.

a) Be unique. If you have had a remotely similar treatment anywhere else in the world then yours is not a signature treatment. b) A signature treatment is generally longer than a normal treatment. So, a 60-minute Swedish or aroma massage would be 80 or 90 minutes if it is to be a signature massage, and would also probably include something more than just oil with which to massage the body. c) Have three clearly segmented sections to the treatment: an introduction (eg. some form of breathing, lighting or sound); followed by a body treatment, like a facial, a body wrap or a massage; and a conclusion, such as a foot cleansing, scalp massage, stretching or breathing. As signature treatments can be inspired by a country, ingredients native to the specific area in which the spa is located, or those sourced from a local product house, should be incorporated.

Viability Before you spend loads of money, time and effort on creating a signature treatment for your spa you need R

“A life signature is the tracing of the talents we are given and how we express them in our lives.” John G Agno

“You utter a vow or forge a signature and you may find yourself bound for life to a monastery, a woman or a prison.” Bronislaw Malinowski

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Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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20 to first check the treatment’s profitability, as well as its reliance on staff. If the treatment is highly profitable and not reliant on huge amounts of specialised technical expertise, then it is an ideal signature treatment. Take care not to get caught up in the romance of creating these types of treatments, as they often land up costly and staffheavy. The word ‘memorable’ currently resonates in the industry more than ever before. If the signature treatment you are creating is not memorable, and does not leave a clear and permanent imprint in the mind of the consumer, then don’t waste your time and energy. A signature treatment has the power to be a transforming experience; it has the ability to leave a strong and unforgettable impression. This is the type of treatment you want to create – one that is remembered forever and makes your business money. The media will no doubt enjoy the opportunity to experience and write up your signature treatment, which can increase your current client base as well as keep regulars loyal, should they see the media reviews.

You will never go wrong with using and stimulating the senses.

The ‘how to’ Firstly, you need to seriously consider whether you actually need a signature treatment in your current set-up. If you are a destination, hotel or day spa you are not left with much choice but to create one, as this is the biggest-selling treatment of most spas in these categories. I always recommend using the most popular treatments when combining services to create a signature treatment. For example, there is no point including a bikini wax with massage just because your therapist is the best bikiniwaxer in town. Instead, look at your top five treatments and use three of those to lay the foundation and then build on this with elements that are powerful enough to create a signature. You will never go wrong with using and stimulating the senses, as this creates an everlasting memory. So take care to pay attention to detail and look at every aspect of the treatment – from the linen on the bed – to the scent in the room – to the drink that is served. My last thought is that good and memorable signature treatments take time to develop, so don’t rush the process. However, take care not to add too many bells and whistles, otherwise your treatment will be perceived as ‘airy fairy’. Enjoy the journey to your signature treatment and drop me a mail should you need any further guidance or ideas. PB

Pointers 1. Decide on a concept for your signature treatment. 2. Name it. 3. Time it. 4. Cost it. 5. Staff it. 6. Test it on different target markets, for example men, teenagers, pregnant ladies, housewives and corporates, and get all of their feedback. 7. If you have ticks and positives on all the above, you have two more important steps remaining. 8. Launch it to your staff and train them adequately on this treatment; how to sell it over the phone; how to describe it to a client; how to upsell it; and how to perform it and recommend homecare products to go with the treatment. It is also vital to train your staff to get valuable feedback and referrals from these types of treatments. 9. Do a superb job of launching it into the market. The more effort that goes into the launch, the more people will try and talk about it. You almost want your signature treatment to trend in the market place.

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on for more information.

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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Conscious living in the woods On 2 January this year, Legacy Balance took over the management of the Woodlands Healing Spa in the Cradle of Humankind. Joanna Sterkowicz asked Legacy Balance director of operations, Margarita Ioannou, about this new venture. Why did you decide to open the Legacy Balance at Woodlands Spa? We are honoured to announce our synergy with Woodlands Healing Spa. Enveloped by vibrant green foliage, fresh country air and right on the banks of the Crocodile River, this spa promotes a holistic approach to healing the mind, body and spirit, through its philosophy of combining therapeutic spa therapies, conscious living and yoga.

Please talk about the exterior look of the spa. The exterior design of the spa has maintained its natural environment, a landmark centre, right on the banks of the Crocodile River. This earthy and modern building was designed to facilitate the experience of letting go, connecting with nature and as a space that inspires conscious living.

in the African landscape, but only 40 minutes from the Sandton CBD. We knew that our guests would travel from the city to escape life’s chaos by looking for serene surroundings to rejuvenate body and soul, so we needed to keep things calm and of Africa, but to allow for a subtle sophistication to enable our city visitors to feel at home. Through our ocean spa on Labadi Beach in Accra, Ghana, we came into contact with the phenomenal world of Ghanaian wax print fabrics. At Woodlands we have tried to combine the subtlety of natural wood and earthy colours with the energy, intricacy and fun that comes from these wax prints.

What skincare brands do you offer at the spa?

FACT FILE Launched: 10 January 2014 Manager: Margarita Ioannou, assisted by Monique Bayliss and Linda Oosthuizen Size: 770 square metres Location: Driefontein Road, The Cradle of Humankind Brands stocked: Babor; Moya Facilities: Jacuzzi, plunge pool and steam room Number of therapists: Six Number of treatment rooms: Six in total (two wet rooms, two single treatment rooms and two couples’ rooms).

We offer Babor because of the brand’s sophisticated facial therapies, coupled with innovative formulations that are solution-focused and produce targeted results for all skin types. In addition we also use Moya, a South African brand. Moya unlocks the secret properties of Fynbos and other indigenous botanicals, in a range of therapeutic homecare products, distilled from the finest plant extracts

and essential oils, offering the energy and natural goodness of Africa in its purest form. Moya essences include Buchu, Zinziba, Cape May, Cape Snowbush, Cape Chamomile, Lanyana and Cape Geranium.

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And the spa interior? Legacy Balance realised a need to revive the interiors of the spa but wanted to stay true to the natural feel that is Woodlands. This spa, which has been open for seven years, is a beautiful and tranquil retreat hidden

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What is the spa’s signature treatment? The Legacy Balance spa experience is based on the philosophy that the appropriate touch can create a profound sense of peace and relaxation in mind and body, helping to restore the energy to wake up and face the world again. Our signature treatment, Elements, lasts 120 minutes. The body is lightly dry-brushed and cocooned in a comforting body wrap of rich South African Fynbos essential oils designed to rid the body of excess toxins. Balance is brought to the crown with a scalp massage and the journey is completed with a wellbeing massage to improve body performance, and the spirit is awakened with a gentle rain stick drizzle.



What other treatments do you offer? Apart from our hydro facilities, we offer the classics such as Swedish, deep tissue and aromatherapy massage, as well as Babor’s new body wraps and massage therapies. We are working on ‘The Breathwork Massage’ and  Level One Breathwork Training for our therapists with Dr Ela Manga. The combination of breath awareness and conscious breathing with massage can be a deeply transformative experience, giving the standard massage a quantum leap. Our new treatment menu is under development and will be ready to launch in April of this year. PB

Contact: 011 668 1918/9

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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The importance of

spa front of house Contrary to popular belief, the front desk is the heart of the spa business. A hive of activity, it should be manned by a strong, proactive and dynamic team that is always willing to assist with a smile, writes Philippa Abbott.


t is always advantageous to have a front office team who have been therapists themselves. They understand how the spa operates and know what treatments can and can’t be booked together. Because they know how long the therapists need for each service, they know where they can shave time off services so as not to impact on the client experience. This is not to say that someone without a beauty background cannot do the job but it often helps a whole lot if they do. Your front desk team needs to be savvy and target driven and all their decisions must be in the best interest of the business. They must never jeopardise the sale of a service just to benefit themselves or a therapist such as, for example, turning away a late client so they can close up early and get to the pub!

First point of call Front desk staff are your customer’s first point of call, whether it be on the phone or when visiting the spa. In this regard the team must emulate everything the spa is about at all times. The front desk has the ability to make or break the client experience. By the time the client puts the phone down after making the booking R

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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26 Front desk staff are your eyes and ears on the ground and must be encouraged to report back to you with all the ‘behind the scenes’ goings-on in the spa. they must be excited to come in and relaxed in the knowledge that their needs have been taken care of. There is nothing worse for a client than being unsure of whether the receptionist has understood his/her request. We are in the business of calming our clients so we do not want them to be uneasy before they even get to the spa. Not only do our front desk co-ordinators have the ability to relax our clients before they even walk into the spa by listening to the clients requests; they will also be able to book the most beneficial treatments for that particular client. This means we will have clients coming for treatments that suit their specific needs and more than likely have a higher price point. Not only will the client enjoy the treatment more but the therapist will be doing a variety of treatments daily. So she will be more excited about her days and able to rebook her clients for more results driven treatments and homecare.

Positioning It is vital that your front desk staff understand their importance and position in your spa. Make sure they have a detailed job description and that every process in reception is documented in SOPs (standard operating procedures). They should be constantly reminded that their position is a stepping stone to management. Front desk staff are your eyes and ears on the ground and must be encouraged to report back to you with all the ‘behind the scenes’ goings-on in the spa. Try to always be on the side of the reception team as this empowers them and makes them feel like you have their back in the greater scheme of things. You will be rewarded by loyalty and mutual respect. Most of the girls that want to be in this position are serious about the business so incentivise them on overall turnover and watch how your figures improve. Their induction training must be as intensive as that of your therapists. They should be sent on all product training; every spa process must be shown to them; and every scenario must be role-played with them.

Glue Your front desk is the glue that holds your spa operation together. They are the initial link between the client and the therapist and must be encouraged to know what is going on at all times. They must be vocal between themselves and each and every change must be

Finding the right team takes time but always ensure that your recruitment process is in-depth and thorough. You need upbeat, positive staff who are as passionate about your spa as you are. Make sure that you profile candidates and watch out for any of the following negative character traits: rude; indifferent; tendency to job hop; poor understanding of policy and procedures; lazy; unwillingness to get stuck in; and unwilling to work long hours conveyed to the therapists as soon as possible so as to not create any confusion. If clients are coming in for special occasions, like birthdays or anniversaries, it must be recorded somewhere for everyone who comes into contact with the guest to see, so that the clients feel special at every junction of their spa day. The therapists must also ensure that if anything changes in the treatment room they tell reception so as to update the docket. Never overlook the precious gems that are your front desk staff. They are an infinite source of insight into your business and need to be appreciated for the ever challenging, but excellent job they do. PB Philippa Abbott is the owner of Spa Sense Consultants. A qualified somatologist and advanced makeup artist, Abbott has worked for two of the UK’s leading spa brands and spent five and a half years with the Spas of Distinction Group in South Africa as part of the management team.

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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business tips


The Business of

Beauty Blog I remember with amusement when my then 5-year-old son drew me a picture on Mother’s Day and said: “I love my Mom because she takes me to McDonald’s!“ I, the dedicated Mom, was competing with the power of branding and guess who won? McDonald’s hands down, writes Debbie Merdjan.


he brand of a product, service or company is undoubtedly a company’s visual language and reflects exactly who you are and depicts how others view you. Branding is a powerful means of communication and is the heart, soul, and essence of our spas, salons, products or services. It impregnates within the minds and emotions of our customers, clients, and target prospects, reflecting their experiences and perceptions. Your target prospects must see you as the only one in the market that provides a solution to their needs. True branding is about being “different” and “unique. ” Some valuable advice I once received was to view your brand as the most important employee in your company.

Brand strategy A good brand strategy serves as a business plan and drives experiences and financial results. Don’t forget that you are a brand and that you are selling yourself daily in everything that you do. What does your personal brand look like and how do you represent yourself to your clients – ie your professional attire, makeup, hair and most importantly, your attitude? When looking at your brand ask yourself the following: • Who are you? • What do you do? • Why it matters? • Where is it going? The key to successful branding is to discover what you want your spa, salon, product or yourself to be known for. Brand credibility equals power and success. You must understand the needs and wants of your customers and prospects. Integrate your brand strategies through your operations or communication at every point of public contact. Make sure your brand delivers the

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message clearly and confirms your credibility. Connect with your target prospects emotionally and motivate your buyer.

Core values Your company’s core values tie in closely to your brand promise and defines your guiding principles. A profitable and sustainable brand must be built from the inside out through people, operational process and programmes. Ninety percent of clients judge your company by the experience they, or someone they know, has had and only 10% or less by the messages they have heard. Creating that WOW exceptional service is essential for brand success. Thanking your customers for choosing your brand endorses your brand promise. Branding by association is an excellent way to improve your brand credibility. Associate your business with more successful brands, attract celebrities to your business or appoint a brand ambassador. Make sure your logo and brand promise is on all your communication and marketing material as well as towels, linen and uniforms. Feed the press constantly with new and innovative treatments. Warren Buffet said: “Your premium brand had better be delivering something special, or it’s not going to get the business.” PB References: The Tipping Point by Malcolm Gladwell

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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Giving birth to


Vaughan Owgan reveals the two most important things you need to know before opening a beauty business.


f you are thinking about opening a beauty salon, I am willing to bet that you want three things from your new business – more money, more time and less stress. When I ask spa and salon owners if their business is giving them more time, money and peace of mind, the answer is usually a very definite ‘no’. In fact, I know a lot of salon owners who work 12- to 16-hour days and they work most weekends. One experiment I run at Salon Management Studio Marketing workshops is to ask salon owners to work out how much money they earn per hour. In many instances they are shocked to find that they are the lowest paid people in their own business. Why is this? The problem started even before the doors to their salon were opened. Let’s compare your salon to your baby. Just like a real baby, your new business will reflect your DNA, your characteristics, your strengths and your weaknesses. Now, when your baby is born, you think that it is the most beautiful thing you have ever seen. At the business birth stage, you are excited about the products and services you are going to offer, you know that you are better than anyone else in your trading zone and you believe that the salon you are about to open is going to be the greatest thing since sliced bread. At this stage, most prospective salon owners spend all of their time, money and attention doing two things; 1. Clothing their baby – ie. focusing on things like designing a snazzy logo, printing brochures, treatment menus, business cards and ordering branded uniforms. You also spend tons of money on interior design, salon layout, selecting colours, fabrics and paint. 2. Buying their baby the best toys – at the birth stage of the business, you are also going to be tempted to buy your baby what you believe are the very best product brands, salon furniture, lasers, weight loss machines, etc.

Cash flow The mistake that most entrepreneurs make when first starting out is not spending any time, money or attention feeding their babies. The food that your business needs, and will never stop needing, is cash flow. If you find yourself thinking that your new baby is so totally awesome that it will sell itself, you’re in for a rude awakening – guaranteed!

If your focus was on the wrong stuff when you started your business, finding customers and generating sales will become your most expensive and urgent problem.

Two sides Every coin has two sides and so does every business. The first side has to do with the service/product you baby will provide ie. facials, waxes, nails, slimming, massage and hair services. Rather than thinking you

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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31 should spend your time doing more nails or facials, you should rather be thinking about how to sell nails and facials. The second side of the business is the hard part. Whether you like it or not, selling is the real business of a business. If your salon can’t sell, if no one is buying, then who cares about what you do, what brands you have and how good your salon looks?

Just like a real baby, your new business will reflect your DNA, your characteristics, your strengths and your weaknesses.

Build your business on paper before you build it in the real world.

When you are starting a new salon, make sure you spend at least 70% of your time, money and energy creating a well-planned, tested strategy to sell your products and services, before you lay out your life savings on opening orders, machinery, leases etc. Drop me an email and I will send you a practical step-by-step guide that will show you how to create a powerful, predictable sales pipeline. Now this is key – after you have created your sales and marketing strategy, then, and only then, do you go ahead and you select products, brands, machinery, furniture, salon layout, interior design and uniforms, because now you can choose suppliers, products, machinery, and interior design that help you achieve your sales and marketing goals.

Top priority What must be given top priority is sales thinking and marketing. Without marketing your salon will have no sales, without sales you will not have cash flow, and without cash flow, you will not be able to pay for products, machinery and staff unless you go into debt. As a salon owner you should always be asking yourself the question: how can I acquire more customers at the lowest possible cost and retain them for the maximum amount of profit? If would-be business owners spend time and money answering the questions of acquisition and retention before their business opens, their salons will succeed. To this day, I have never seen a beauty business go under because they didn’t have Brand X on their shelves, or because they didn’t have the latest machine, or stunning interior design. But every month I see spas and salons go under because they don’t have customers and they didn’t have cash flow. When you get acquisition and retention right, you are taking a huge step in the right direction. PB

Vaughan Owgan is the marketing and operations director for Salon Management Studio. He has been involved in the health and beauty industry for most of his life – from setting up spas to marketing and distribution – and now provides innovative software and business training to the industry. Email:

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Professional Beauty March/April 2014

skin disorders


The skinny on

skin disorders


f you’ve ever wondered what the difference between eczema and dermatitis is, dermatologist Dr Lushen Pillay points out that, while the US tends to use the term eczema, South Africa, like Britain, usually regards eczema and dermatitis as the same thing. “Atopic dermatitis, an allergic condition that often appears in babies and children, is the most common form of eczema. It may go away by age two or last through adulthood,” he explains. Medical director of Lamelle Research Laboratories, Dr Bradley Wagemaker, describes eczema as a term for a group of medical conditions that cause the skin to become inflamed or irritated. “Eczema is almost always itchy and the rash most commonly appears on the face, back of the knees, wrists, hands, or feet,” he continues. “Affected areas usually appear very dry, thickened, or scaly. In fair-skinned people, these areas may initially appear reddish and then turn brown. Among darker-skinned people, eczema can affect pigmentation, making the affected area lighter or darker.” Dr Robert Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals adds: “In some instances, dermatitis can mean more acute inflammation, whereas eczema will be used as a term for

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Pics: RégimA

Medical conditions such as eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, rosacea and vitiligo result in unsightly lesions, discolouration of the skin and discomfort. Joanna Sterkowicz asks industry experts to share their knowledge about these distressing disorders.

a more chronic or recurring condition.” The different types of eczema range from atopic eczema to stasis eczema, nummular dermatitis, irritant/ contact dermatitis, nickel dermatitis and seborrheic dermatitis, among others. Eczema is thought to be linked to an overactive response by the body’s immune system to an irritant or linked to an impaired skin barrier. “It is commonly found in families with a history of other allergies or asthma,” comments Wagemaker. “Some people may experience flare-ups in response to certain substances like coarse materials, soaps, detergents and animal hair, or to extremes in temperature. Respiratory infections, colds and stress may also be triggers.” Gobac notes that, due to the lack of the exact cause and understanding of eczema’s behaviour, most eczemas are believed to be allergic.

Controlling the situation Good skincare is a key component in controlling eczema, advises Pillay. “For mild eczema, modify your skincare routine and make a few lifestyle changes. More severe eczema may require medication. General emollients (moisturisers which help to maintain the barrier and R

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

skin disorders

34 moisture content of the skin) are mostly used, together with non-irritating soaps and cleansers. “Other treatments, depending on the severity, skin type and age, can range from simple creams and soaps, to topical and oral treatment containing steroids or immunomodulators, phototherapy, lasers, etc.” Damage to the lipid bi-layer of the skin can be a factor. Wagemaker recommends the Serra range from Lamelle, once the patient has seen their medical aesthetic doctor to repair the lipid bilayer of the skin. Sonette Donker of Dermalogica believes a diet rich in Omega 3 will help to improve the barrier of the skin and reduce inflammation. “I would also remove any possible irritants, ie artificial fragrances, artificial colourants, lanolin and harsh detergents and drying alcohols. The Dermalogica UltraCalming range is recommended for eczema sufferers,” she says.

“In some instances, dermatitis can mean more acute inflammation, whereas eczema will be used as a term for a more chronic or recurring condition.” Dr Robert Gobac

The experts at optiphi note that when skin is cracked, skin moisture evaporates and results in a dry and dehydrated skin. Suitable products for eczema (and rosacea) are the optiphi facial cleanser or pure cleansing wash, which both have a pH of 5.5. Eczema sufferers might have a higher pH level than normal (ie. more alkaline) and therefore exhibit flushing and redness. “A lot of skin disorders result in underlying inflammation in the skin,” maintains the optiphi team. “This increases your risk of pigmentation, destroys the structure and support network of the skin, resulting in premature ageing and impairing barrier function, which results in dehydration and over active oil production. Our Ageless Active Gel is excellent in these circumstances as it increases the skin’s integrity, also restoring homeostasis on a cellular level. Moisture Control Light improves skin hydration and helps repair the barrier function.” Environ National Training Manager Felicia Steyn says the combination of Derma-Lac Lotion and Vitamin A, C & E Body Oil helps to treat and relieve the symptoms of eczema and psoriasis. “Derma-Lac lotion contains lactic acid with a mild pH which assists in sloughing off the

excess dry skin, leaving the skin texture smoother. Lactic acid is also known for its moisturising properties. Vitamin A, C & E Body Oil helps normalise the skin cell abnormalities and conditions and strengthens the skin.” 

Anti-inflammatory Treatment products must not contain fragrances, colours, or any obvious allergens, stresses RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt. “Plants with anti-inflammatory action, soothing, calming, healing, topical anti-pruritic agents should be used. Unfortunately, a lot of doctors prescribe corticosteroids which, long-term, may have a thinning and detrimental effect on the skin. RégimA Scar Repair and Post Laser Gel have been found to be of great benefit to eczema sufferers, as well as RégimA Ultralite Therapeutic Massage for widespread eczema.” Products from the DermaFix range that are antiinflammatory and help to maintain skin barrier are HydraSilk Cleanser, a light emollient cleanser that does not R

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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Ophthamologist Reviewed DermatologistReviewed Hypo-allergenic Clinically Tested Non-Irritating

skin disorders

36 strip the skin off essential lipids and can also be used for rosacea. Other suitable products are ACC Hyaluronic Gel 100, for around the eye area and on the eyelid, and ACC Copper, which assists by calming redness, reducing irritation and speeding up the healing process. DermaFix Vitamin B Cream is formulated with D-Panthenol for protection and yeast extract for additional healing properties. “We have experienced a noticeable difference in skin suffering from conditions such as eczema and rosacea when using Dr Gobac Cleanser and Dr Gobac Starter Cream,” comments Gobac. 

Mistaken identity Many people do not know the difference between psoriasis and eczema. Says Pillay: “Psoriasis usually affects extensors, but eczema and psoriasis can easily be mistaken for one another, especially when they occur in atypical areas, eg inverse psoriasis, or inverse eczema. A simple skin biopsy can differentiate the two.” Wagemaker defines psoriasis as a chronic autoimmune condition that results in the over-production of skin cells, which build up into silvery-white scales. The skin becomes inflamed and red, causing serious itching. There is no cure for psoriasis, but some topical, light-based, and systemic pharmaceutical treatments can put the condition into remission. “Phototherapy or light therapy is a suitable treatment,” he continues. “This involves exposing the skin to ultraviolet light on a regular basis and under medical supervision.


Psoriasis is a chronic autoimmune condition that results in the over-production of skin cells, which build up into silvery-white scales. The skin becomes inflamed and red, causing serious itching. Treatments are done in a doctor’s office or psoriasis clinic. We do not support the use of indoor tanning beds as a substitute for phototherapy. “Some foods, as well as alcohol, aggravate or trigger psoriasis. If topical therapy has been prescribed, then application must be consistent. Affected skin must be treated gently when washing and highly perfumed or chemically based bath products

After 2 weeks using RégimA Laser Gel only

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

and salts must be avoided.” RégimA Vitamin D3 Protecting Body Serum and RégimA Ultralite Therapeutic Massage are suitable for psoriasis.

In the red Faucitt says rosacea manifests as reddening and inflammation with numerous telangiectasia (couperose), usually across the cheeks and nose with the skin being rather sensitive in these areas. The condition is exacerbated by extremes of weather, spicy foods, alcohol and cosmetics containing alcohol or strong fragrances. In more severe cases there are enlarged sebaceous glands, and, in advanced stages, one may develop thickening of the skin on the forehead, chin, cheeks and mainly the nose. Donker adds that rosacea is a common skin condition characterised by redness, pustules, papules and broken blood vessels.

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skin disorders

37 Rosacea manifests as reddening and inflammation with numerous telangiectasia (couperose), usually across the cheeks and nose with the skin being rather sensitive in these areas.

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“I would suggest Vitamin A in topically applied skin care, anti-inflammatory ingredients and preparations with salicylic acid for the inflammatory breakouts. Dermalogica products ideal for this condition are the UltraCalming Range, Concealing Spot Treatment for pustules and our Gentle Soothing Booster to treat redness and inflammation,” she says. PIllay strongly advises the avoidance of trigger factors. Certain antibiotics, acne drugs and sunscreens all form part of the treatment, while the laser treatment Sciton BBL has shown good results. As exposure to sunlight is often a very big cause of rosacea, wearing good sunblock is an essential. “In instances where there is infection, antibiotics will be a great help. Avoiding foods and beverages rich in histamine also help significantly to control skin redness,” says Gobac. The Coverderm Vanish range caters specifically for microcirculation disturbances such as rosacea. Active ingredients include MDI complex, fucoidan, escin and caffeine to improve microcirculation

White patches Vitiligo is a continuous and long-term skin problem that produces white depigmentation patches that develop and enlarge only in certain sections of the skin. “In most cases, the affected areas remain for the rest of the person’s life. Generally the first white spot that becomes noticeable is usually on an area of the body that is exposed continuously to the sun. As time passes, this spot will become much paler until reaching a white colour,” says Wagemaker. Pillay notes that the exact causes of vitiligo are unknown. “It may be due to an immune system disorder and heredity could be a factor. Some people have reported a single event, such as sunburn or emotional distress, which triggered the condition.” Appropriate treatments are phototherapy with UVB light, says Wagemaker. “Topical corticosteroids may suppress the depigmentation response. If the white spots are located in large areas of the body, UVB phototherapy will have to be performed in a hospital with a full body treatment. “While phototherapy has a positive effect on R



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Professional Beauty March/April 2014

skin disorders

38 Vitiligo is a continuous and long-term skin problem that produces white depigmentation patches that develop and enlarge only in certain sections of the skin.




vitiligo, it is still quite GSD Eximal unpredictable and is distributed undependable. Psoralen, by Radiant which increases the skin´s Healthcare sensitivity to ultra-violet light, must be taken while the patient undergoes UVA light therapy. More intense vitiligo treatments are skin transplants with radiotherapy.” Radiant Healthcare distributes a product from GSD (Global Skin Dermatologist) known as Eximal for the treatment of vitiligo and psoriasis. It uses a 308nm Eximer UV-Light (XeCI) to induce T-cell apoptosis and improve pigment synthesis, which have proved to be effective for many skin diseases with accurate treatments. “Common areas affected are around the eyes, nostrils, mouth, armpits, groin and genitals,” explains Faucitt. “They are generally very patchy and do not uniformly and fully change colour like the late Michael Jackson. It is almost impossible to change the hypo-pigmented areas. Tattooing on small areas may be worthwhile, as long as an SPF is used, so that the ‘normal’ skin colour does not become tanned. “We recommend natural peels over the whole of the face (or any other part of the body), with the aim of lightening the ‘normal’, darker skin. If one is using natural AHAs, plants that have anti-inflammatory healing action, one can also stimulate collagen synthesis, thus thickening and helping repair the skin. RégimA Natural Power Peels work well, combined with home care such as RégimA Quantum Elastin.” Dermalogica Solar Defence Booster SPF50, UltraSensitive Tint SPF30 or SkinPerfect Primer SPF30 are useful in preventing sun exposure on vitiligoaffected skin. PB, TEL: +27 11 033 0500 w w w . j u l i e t t e a r m a n d . c o . z a Professional Beauty March/April 2014

treatment review - masks


Communing with nature Joanna Sterkowicz enjoys a close encounter with the Nature’s Secrets’ Milk Face Pack.


n interesting aspect of the Nature’s Secrets face packs is that they are in powder form. This allows the therapist to mix the mask and tailor make it to the client’s skin type. In my case Lisa Leibov of Nature’s Secrets SA chose the Milk Face Pack (a deep cleansing and pore-purifying mask) and added Aloe 94% to the mix, due to my sensitive and dehydrated skin. It felt cool and invigorating on application. “The mask will tingle on areas where it has the most work to do,” said Leibov. Sure enough, the mask tingled

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quite a bit on my chin area, signalling a surplus of dead skin cells. Leibov left the mask on for 15 minutes and performed a lymph and pressure point massage on the face and neck to stimulate the skin’s natural detoxification and replenishment. She explained that the lactic acid

in the milk pack exfoliates the skin and draws out deep seated impurities to effectively lighten and firm sagging skin. It also helps to repair sun damage and ageing skin cells. Other beneficial ingredients are calcium, zinc, vitamin B2/ riboflavin, and liqorice root extract. Once the mask was removed my skin looked and felt much fresher than before. Nature’s Secrets is distributed in South Africa by Marica Salon Specialists. PB

Contact: 082 673 8465

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

professional beauty durban


It’s all happening in Durban! Following the success of Professional Beauty Cape Town 2014, the next stop for the Professional Beauty trade show is Durban. This event takes place on 18 and 19 May at the International Convention Centre (ICC).


Entrance policy: Professional Beauty is reserved for trade and professional visitors only. Due to the professional nature of the event, babies and children under 16 cannot be admitted.


rofessional Beauty Durban promises to be even better than 2013. The size of the exhibiton has grown by almost 50% with new and exciting exhibitors coming on board with new ideas, product and innovation. “This event cannot be missed by anyone in the industry looking to keep up with current trends and remain competitive in the ever changing market,” says Phil Woods, Commercial Director of T.E. Trade Events, organiser of the Professional Beauty shows. “As the premier industry event in the region, Professional Beauty Durban attracts all the top brands in the beauty sector.” According to Woods, the show will allow visitors to save money with special offers from over 120 brands.

“Visitors will able to network with the top brands in the industry and discover the latest innovative products and treatments, with the opportunity to touch, test and compare as well as gain invaluable expertise,” continues Woods. “They will benefit from the vast array of educational opportunities available and have the opportunity to network with industry experts and other beauty and spa professionals at world class conferences and seminars.” For more information about Professional Beauty Durban and to register for your free ticket visit to avoid the R75 entrance fee on the day. The Professional Beauty team looks forward to seeing you at the show. PB

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

The Professional Beauty Network, an initiative that had its origins in Durban two years ago, will have a big presence at the show. Focused on uplifting the spa and beauty industry, the Professional Beauty Network is a platform that provides beauty professionals, slaon/spa owners, managers, therapists and suppliers with the chance to network, meet industry experts and keep updated with the latest information in the industry.

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treatment review - masks


A deeply purifying experience

Ideal for oily and combination skin, the Anesi Masque Dermo Purifiante absorbs skin impurities and restores lustre to the skin, as Charlene Dickson discovers.


magine my delight when I arrived at Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS) in Johannesburg to find that my Masque Dermo Purifiante treatment would form part of a full Anesi facial. To start with, my skin was cleansed with Harmonie Demaquillant Caresse and toned with Harmonie Lotion Caresse. Next came the exfoliator – the Peeling Enzymatique (mixed with the Aqua Vital Lotion). Once the peel was removed and my skin toned, I was ready for the Masque Dermo Purifiante. This alginate mask was mixed with Lotion Active, which contains laminaria, acts as a sebum regulator and adjusts the mask’s pH balance. EBS Managing Member Dalize Havenga explained that the colour of the mask varies, depending on when the plants are harvested. In this instance the mask was a pale avocado green and felt refreshing and calming on the skin. Said Havenga: “The mask is a mix of diatomaceous plants, calcium sulphate, sodium alginate and tetra sodium diphosphate (organic salt). Horse Tail Fern extract has mineralising, astringent and stimulating properties and prompts elastin and collagen generation.” After 15 minutes, the mask peeled off very easily. The treatment ended with Aqua Vital Serum and Harmonie Cream. Post treatment, my skin looked lovely – clean and radiant. PB

011 791 4027

Dermo Contrôl Control & Correction

Tel: 086 112 6374 \ 011 791 4027 |

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

healthy ageing@dr gys business tips

42 42

Dr Gys Du Plessis answers your health, wellness and anti-ageing questions.

The pain game I have been suffering from muscle pain for a long time and have gone through many tests which have crossed off all the ‘serious’ conditions. I’ve taken as many painkillers as I’ve had tests, with limited results. Are there any natural remedies or herbs that could help me?


t is so sad to hear this daily from patients – that after enduring many tests and consultations they are told that there is apparently nothing wrong with them. Yet they walk away with the same pain, analgesics and no diagnosis or strategy for their pain. We, the medical profession, are such brilliant scientists, with the best intentions, but so often we do not listen to our patients. I want to give you some hope about the benefits certain natural and herbal interventions have in dealing with chronic pain. Our nervous system is what makes us special, but it also makes us vulnerable, as evidenced by the growing incidence of depression, anxiety, addictions, sleep disorders and pain syndromes. Many people resort to pharmaceutical drugs, but sometimes the side effects outweigh the benefits. Clinical evidence and long-time usage have proved that some herbs assist in managing chronic pain. Herbs are surprisingly powerful and they are an excellent third option to chemical treatment and heavy drugs. Opium, cannabis and aconite are examples of powerful, dangerous herbs and their therapeutic use should be highly controlled.

Recent research suggests milder herbs can play a valuable role. The goal of good herbal intervention is to also treat and alleviate the cause wherever possible. There are four key sources of pain: Inflammatory pain due to soft tissue injury; eg. osteoarthritis and sports injuries. Herbs with potential in this category of pain are boswelia, willow bark, turmeric and ginger. Inflammatory pain generated by auto-immune conditions like rheumatoid arthritis and lupus. Turmeric, rehmannia and feverfew have all shown benefits for this type of pain. Pain due to muscle tension and/or spasm; eg tension headaches, as well as menstrual pain. Wild yam, cramp bark and Californian Poppy all show promise in this pain group. Pain due to nerve interference; eg neuralgia, sciatica, cancer pain and fibromyalgia. This very big and common class of pain is often alleviated by St. John’s Wort, Californian Poppy, corydalis and Jamaica Dogwood.

These herbs can be a very useful third option to chemical and heavy drugs and may also combine well with the regular medicines prescribed by doctors. Other extremely effective measures that assist analgesics and herbs include: • Mild aerobic exercise; eg 150 minutes of walking per week; • A regular sleep pattern; • A low carbohydrate and balanced diet; • A regular spiritual practice like meditation and contemplation; • A good multivitamin/mineral combination and Omega 3. PB If you would like to ask Dr Gys du Plessis a question please email the editor at Selected questions and answers will be published in the following issue of the magazine.

Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in holistic, integrative and aesthetic medicine. He has founded and led two holistic centres in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www.

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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Are you a winner ? A Professional Beauty Award is a sign of excellence and recognition that you have been judged by your peers in the industry to be at the top of your profession. This is the most prestigious and established awards ceremony for the beauty, spa and nail industry in South Africa, acknowledging those who have made a real difference to the industry. The winners will be announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Dinner on 31 August 2014.

Therapist of the Year Salon of the Year (3 rooms or less) Salon of the Year (4 rooms or more) Day Spa of the Year Nail Salon of the Year Spa/Salon Manager of the Year Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year Boutique Hotel Spa of the Year

The deadline for all entries is

30 April 2014

Enter online by simply visiting and clicking on the ‘Awards’ tab.

If you think you have what it takes to WIN a Professional Beauty Award, then what are you waiting for?

Enter today!



New RF energy-based

devices from BTL Non-invasive, pain-free solutions for slimming, body contouring and skin tightening are increasingly sought after by clients seeking non-surgical alternatives and rapid results.


he latest body contouring machine from market leader BTL Aesthetics – the aptly named Vanquish – was launched to the South African market at Professional Beauty Cape Town in February this year. A selective radiofrequency (RF) system, Vanquish features a revolutionary energy delivery design that helps target the thermal effect into the deep tissue, while protecting surrounding layers. The broad RF field is precisely focused into deep tissue layers while the skin is automatically cooled by the air. “Vanquish works on the largest treatment area in the industry, namely the abdomen,” says BTL Aethetics’ Branislav Suˇ canský. “It is currently the only multipolar RF machine in the market and requires zero consumables. The treatment course is 4 sessions of 30 minutes each and therapists get familiar with the operation of the device very quickly.” He notes that Vanquish was recently featured on the front cover of New You magazine. “New You described Vanquish as: ‘A non-surgical

Vanquish: Before

option for fat removal that delivers on all counts.’ “David McDaniel, an assistant professor of clinical dermatology from Eastern Virginia Medical School, US, conducted an independent study on Vanquish. He was quoted in Harper’s Bazaar as saying: ‘Some procedures are painful or take too long; some are effective only on small areas of body fat that can be sucked up through a small vacuum. Vanquish addresses all those problems. It can treat a large surface area uniformly. It’s fast, efficient, and comfortable. This is a big technological breakthrough,’” states Suˇ canský.

The Exilis Elite BTL Aesthetics’ latest machine in the Exilis body contouring range, the Exilis Elite, was launched in South Africa in October 2013. It has two applications – one for the body and one for the face. Suˇ canský continues: “With Exilis Elite you can treat the whole body, from the forehead to the toes, as well as the hands, neck, and décolleté areas. It’s an RF and ultrasound device.

Vanquish: After

Exilis Elite: Before

Exilis Elite: After

Both these energies are released simultaneously which makes the treatment short and very effective. The unique cooling system allows the therapist to target the fat deposits on the body on virtually any person. “Safety is ensured by the EFC (Energy Flow Control) feature which employs the most sophisticated delivery of RF energy that allows constant monitoring of the skin impedance changes during treatment.” In the Winter 2013 edition of The Aesthetic Guide, Robert A. Weiss, a dermatologist and dermatologic researcher at the Maryland Laser, Skin and Vein Institute in Hunt Valley, US, says: “Having used other monopolar devices, being able to actually focus on the areas that need the most tightening is a considerable advantage of the Exilis Elite.” Vanquish and Exilis Elite will be exhibited at Professional Beauty Durban (18-19 May, ICC). PB

Contact: 076 232 8058

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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After two treatments

Exilis wAs voTEd ThE BEsT skiN TighTENiNg PRoducT iN ThE usA.

south african brands


Local is lekker!

Dr Des Fernandes

Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt

Jacqui Faucitt’

There are a mind-boggling number of skincare brands in the beauty stratosphere and the good news is that many of them are South African. Joanna Sterkowicz looks at the unique aspects of several home-grown professional skincare ranges.


Three of the largest South African brands, Environ Nimue and RégimA, all have medical origins.

nitially developed in 1994, the Nimue product range was aimed at the medical market for preand post-operative application, as well as for advanced resultsorientated skin rejuvenation treatment by skincare therapists. Nimue has since evolved into a globally recognised brand, primarily among leading skincare salons. The company has replaced the traditional skin-analysing system with a new classification system: Environmentally Damaged Skin; Hyperpigmented Skin; Problematic Skin; and Interactive.

It was Dr Des Fernandes’ concern for skin cancer in the early 1980s that eventually led to the conception of the Environ range of skincare products. “Because of the positive effects that I had noticed on my patients whom I had treated for acne, I started using Vitamin A acid (retinoic) on my own facial skin

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in 1982, just before my 40th birthday,” says Fernandes. “By 1986, I had uncovered all the positive facts about Vitamin A and the antioxidants and I started to promote the use of Tretinoin for the prevention of skin cancer. “I made Environ creams because no other similar cream existed in any part of the world. It was the natural evolution from intensive reading into the physiology of the skin and current ideas about skin pathology. Found in numerous local salons, Environ exports to over 60 countries worldwide, including America, Europe, Australia, the UK and Japan. Originally from the UK, Jacqui Faucitt’s goal on arrival in South Africa many years ago was to create skin treatments for one of the most challenging climates in the world. “I started working with plastic surgeons, where I saw a great need for a product like RégimA,” continues Faucitt. “Skin-resurfacing laser therapy was very much the trend at that time but the potential side effects were great and R

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

south african brands

48 the downtime unacceptable. RégimA was the first company to manufacture products for pre and post laser treatment. We have incorporated our own proprietary skin rejuvenation trademark complex, Centelastin, into many of our products.” RégimA has moved into a range of up-market salons and spas throughout Southern Africa. It is also sold in the UK, US, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. In creating the multi-award winning eyeSlices therapeutic eye treatment pads, Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt wanted to fill what she saw as the biggest gap in the marketplace. “I personally had a major problem with puffiness of the eyes and nothing worked,” says Krause-Neufeldt. “When I unexpectedly came across the CSIR’s (Centre for Scientific and Industrial Research’s) abandoned cryogenic polymer hydrogel technology project, I thought it would be appropriate for an eyecare range because it was non-toxic and very safe. It was soft, moulded onto the eye contours well and was soothing and cooling. All we had to do was test if the active ingredients I had sourced would be stable in it and if the technology would effectively release them into the skin. “Dr Aubrey Parsons was the first specialist who assisted us in formulating our products which we have upgraded and improved upon over the years.” Now in over 400 salons in South Africa, the first overseas sale of eyeSlices was made to the US in 2006. Vitaderm was launched in 2001 exclusively to the beauty therapy market by co-developers Derek and Belinda Wesson. Originally created as a botanical range with ingredients comprising phyto extracts and essential oils, Vitaderm has evolved into a comprehensive range of products that includes an Advanced Actives Range. The latter uses ingredients such as palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetra-peptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, ascorbic acid glucoside, retinol, hyaluronic acid, arbutin, glutathione, salicylic acid, alpha hydroxyl acids, sulforaphane, and ceramides. Represented locally in more than 400 salons and spas, Vitaderm has exported to Holland, UK, Canada, Namibia and many upmarket African destination spas. In October 2004 Marshall’s Traditional Healthcare decided to create a quality beauty range, with the flagship product being Lay’s Tissue Oil.

Says Lay’s founder Reema Maharaj: “We wanted to be different from other tissue oils with respect to delivery mechanism (ie. spray form), ingredients, and texture. The base oil is Grapeseed oil because of its excellent anti-oxidant properties. Jojoba oil was included due to its superb scalp nourishing properties and for being a ‘wrinkle fighter’.” A trial conducted at the Cecilia Makiwane Hospital in the Eastern Cape in April 2006 showed a marked improvement in patients suffering from eczema and patients with dry skin problems. Maharaj has been approached by distributors in the UK, Australia and USA. Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals was launched into the South African market three years ago. The range was developed as a result of Dr Robert Gobac’s research on improved technology and advanced science on how to deliver polypeptides into the epidermis and dermis to stimulate repair, recovery and optimum functioning of the skin matrix and its respective cells. Some of the key ingredients in the range are polypeptides, as well as microsome and nanosome technology. The brand is currently present in over 300 selected salons and is exported to Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia. TheraVine was founded in 2004 as the culmination of extensive research and development over many years. Says Lisa Smit, creator and CEO of LS Enterprises: “The TheraVine range obtains its grape-derived ingredients from the South African indigenous Pinotage grape cultivars, which contain high R

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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south african brands


create the world’s first homeopathic aromatherapy complexes that are pre-blended to scientific specifications resulting in controlled product usage. Lilian Terry International (LTI) complexes are 100% natural and contain a high level of active ingredients with no added colourants, preservatives or mineral oil. The brand recently launched its first two homeopathic aromatherapy facial gels and toners for oily and problematic skins. LTI has exported to the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, the UK, Ukraine, Cyprus, New Zealand, Namibia, Qatar, Belarus and Zambia.

concentrations of grapeseed polyphenols, known as oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs). It is proven that OPCs are 50 times the strength of Vitamin E and 20 times the strength of Vitamin C with regards to their levels of anti-oxidants.” TheraVine is found in over 200 exclusive spas and salons throughout South Africa, along with distribution to the USA, Poland, Belgium, Luxemburg, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Namibia, Malaysia, Bulgaria and Kenya. Utilising the multi-disciplinary expertise of the Southern Group, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies (SRT) gave birth to the optiphi Active Range. This range was originally established in the plastics and reconstructive field and is now addressing the aesthetics/skincare field. The optiphi philosophy is to promote true skin rejuvenation to enhance the function of the skin matrix barrier. Its active ingredient synergies are chosen to promote cellular gerontology, restore skin moisture, ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, as well as adjust pH levels and soothe skin inflammation. optiphi has received its ISO 9001:2008 accreditation. In 1996 aromatherapist Lilian Terry joined forces with medical doctor and homeopath Dr Katerina Tsvyetkova to

Shannon Mathie has developed a South African sunless tanning range called The Tan Lab. “With a skin type one and melanoma a few years ago, it was my dream to develop my own sunless tanning range,” explains Mathie. “The sunless tanning products available to us locally are limited, and the top-end imported brands expensive. I saw there was a gap in the market to offer the professional tanning salons a product that was competitively priced along with the quality the international brands offered.” Mathie spent a year importing various brands from abroad. “With the help of an outstanding chemist, we took the best from each product and formulated an exceptional product range, which I plan to launch in April this year,” she says. Developed and formulated at the Charlotte Rhys laboratory and factory in Cape Town, this clinically active skincare range incorporates natural, organic and botanical ingredients, many of which are unique to Africa. Beaucience focuses on using natural formulations and organic ingredients where possible in its skincare range. Its manufacturing process carries a certification by the Soil Association standards of Organic Health and Beauty care products. R

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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south african brands


The Adorn skincare products were formulated in South Africa in 2011 by cosmetic chemist Karen Coomber. Raw materials with clinical claims to prove their efficacy in the final products were carefully selected for each product. The synergy effect of the products used together on the skin was taken into consideration with the formulation in order to ensure that the best effect is seen on the skin. Bisousoleil, which was developed and manufactured specifically for the South African climate, was launched at Professional Beauty Johannesburg 2012 “After completing an extensive market research plan, we discovered a need for a kit-based spray tan that hydrates and works with your own pigment to make you turn golden-brown for between 10 and 14 days.“ says Bisousoleil’s Diane Boorman. Currently supplied to over 130 salons and spas in South Africa, MatsiMela Home Spa was started by Wayne and Olivia Nel in 2006. “The ideology behind MatsiMela is to constantly be creative with a brand that is distinctly African and sophisticated. As from 2014 our focus is on formulating products with a greener base. “Our first export enquiry came from Namibia and in 2010 and we now export to Zimbabwe, Zambia, Denmark, Swaziland, Europe, USA and Hong Kong,” says MatsiMela’s Emmy Stoltz.

Milk Solutions was created in early 2000 by therapist and lecturer Karen Ellithorne, who felt there was a gap in the market for an affordable, professional manicure/ pedicure range in South Africa. The three Milk Solutions ranges, which feature beautiful fragrances and top quality ingredients, recently made their international debut – at Professional Beauty London. Skinmate Professional Skin Care had its origins in 2008. Says Skinmate’s Jacqueline Crous: “This range was developed under Magnolia Beauty Equipment CC and branded under Skinmate in 2009. The reasoning was that all the imported equipment was under the brand of Skinmate, and, due to the association with the name, I decided to expand the brand to the skin range as well.” Sh’Zen was founded in 1989 by MD Ingrid Alexander, world-renowned cosmetic scientist John Knowlton and clinical aromatherapist and olfactory specialist Tertia Marriot, in response to a growing demand among South African women for more natural locally produced beauty products. Sh’Zen is exported to the UK, New Zealand, Ireland, Botswana and Mauritius. A cosmeceutical skincare range, Sknlogic was created in 2011 by Karin Theunissen. The range uses powerful fruit-based formulas and strives to incorporate as many nature-identical products as possible. PB

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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It’s a miracle! “Your tissue oil is FANTASTIC! I love the way it doesn’t leave an oily feel after application and it works like magic. Just thought I would write in and tell you, your product is super!” Gemma • Helps improve the appearance of stretch marks, scars & blemishes • For sunburn – alleviates the itching, reduces redness & prevents peeling • Nourishes dry hair & dry scalp • Lightens pigmentation • Moisturises dry flaky skin/eczema • Reduces the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles

Treatment from Head -to-Toe

Tel: +27 (0) 11 493-2007 | Fax: 011 616 0578 E-mail: Website:

For more information contact: Tel: +27 (0) 11 880 3850/1 Fax: +27(0) 86 532 1265 2014 Mar/Apr_PB Advert.indd 1

2014/03/07 11:07 AM



Nail trending for autumn/winter It’s time to pack away those bikinis and sandals as the air starts to chill and to get out the warmer gear. However, the upcoming season does not have to be boring, dreary or drab especially when it comes to nails, writes Sonette van Rensburg. Tom Hanks and Rita Wilson


Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie

ail colours and trends tend to repeat themselves and go full circle every year – from nudes to pastels to neons to metallics, varying in shades and tones, to polishes that dry to a matt finish. Some people may prefer to stay a little more conservative and stick with just colour on their nails, while others are looking for something a little different. Colours for the upcoming seasons are so varied, from the softest of pale pinks and sheer shades to very deep and bold purple, red and black, along with brown and taupe. The more neutral and natural tones are definitely a highlight and very in for autumn/winter. Keeping a close eye on celebrities and the catwalks affords a sneak peak at upcoming nail colours and trends, as nail polish brands develop their ranges according to fashion. You can see nail couture at its finest at red carpet events like the Oscars, Grammys and SAG (Screen Actors Guild) Awards. Prominent at the recent Oscars was the femininity that exuded from just about every actress, with nail colours and trends to complement their gowns, from sheer pinks and nudes, to deeper shades of red and black, as well as au natural. Best Supporting Actress winner Lupita Nyong’o really stood out in her pastel blue gown with pink oval shaped nails which looked gorgeous against her skin tone. Jennifer Lawrence also looked stunning with a sheer pastel pink manicure, which complemented her beautiful red gown. She was certainly noticed and talked about once again this year, not only for her beauty and her top to toe perfection, but for her graceful little tumble on the red carpet. Julia Fitzroy made sure her toenails were polished to perfection, in a bold deep ruby red. Who would’ve thought that red and purple go together, but the combination of her stunning taupe coloured,

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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Jennifer Lawrence and Matthew McConaughey

Lupita Nyong’o

stylish peep toe heels and gorgeous grape coloured evening dress melded together beautifully. Sandra Bullock very surprisingly wore black nails, which looked classically beautiful against her rich royal blue dress. Angelina Jolie strutted on the red carpet in a straight cut, gently fitting, gold long sleeved dress and nails that were completely natural, with nothing but a top coat to give them shine. At the Grammys Rita Ora showed off her curvy shape in a slinky metallic emerald green dress and added a bit of fun and comics to her nails, with some nail art and a different design on each of her fingernails, created in bright bold colours to set off the very noticeable fashion rings on each of her fingers. It certainly drew your attention and personally not a look I would go for, but it did make me smile. Bedazzling everyone with her figure hugging, mosaic and mirrored dress and matching clutch bag at the SAG Awards, Rita Wilson wore a bright red on her nails, a classic favourite that showed off really well against this very unique outfit and added an extra touch of class. Beyoncé has attracted plenty of attention with the recent release of her latest music video. From embellished lingerie and pole dancing to a Jay Z cameo and special animal print visual effects, the video showed all, including her nails, polished in a bold, candy apple red, with matching lips to set the scene. Rihanna usually likes to create a WOW factor with what she wears on her nails, but actually looked very

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stylish at the recent showcasing of Stella McCartney’s ready-to-wear collection. She wore a patterned, oversized hooded coat, red retrostyle sunglasses and bold bright lips. Her nails were long and square, painted in a solid, neutral, light brown colour, similar to the one she wore in her MAC Viva Glam campaign. To create a neutral, light brown nail look, choose from Chocolate Cakes by Essie, Dulce de Leche by OPI, or Cabernet Ice and Topaz Ice from the Ice Box colors Wine & Jewels range.

What’s on offer Let’s take a look at what they have to offer. Don’t expect the usual though, thinking that the Autumn/ Winter trends should only be about darker, deeper, bolder colours and shades, which are very much featuring but so are the softer more pastel and neutral shades. Even dabble with a little nail art and use your fingernails as the perfect canvas to play and have some fun! Some of the top local and international nail brands have already launched their new collections, offering a little something of everything for the up to date nail look, from dark and sexy, to fun pastels and natural neutrals, and even some glitzy glam, with matte. The latter is proving to be more and more popular and a must for the season. Foils and coatings are also still around and coming back as a high fashion nail trend. Ice Box colors: Working in accordance with the latest global R

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

Pics sourced from Shutterstock




fashion and colour trends, Ice Box colors has ranges to tantalise and excite. Choose from sheers and pastels in the French and Sorbet ranges to deep, bold darker shades in the Wine & Jewels range, and unique colour changing varieties that alter with exposure to UV light. LCN: The elegance and grace of iconic Hollywood beauties Rita Hayworth, Liz Taylor, Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe serve as the muses for LCN’s autumn range. In keeping with the Hollywood style, LCN presents its trend for autumn – Charade (French for mystery). This is a newly interpreted glamorous and diva like look – puzzling, mysterious and very feminine. Earthy shades, dark blackberry coloured lips and a metallic eye make-up provide a true retro sex appeal. LCN Magic Colour Gels provide your nails with magical colour reflexes. The resins transform the effects according to the angle of light and perspective as if moved by a magic wand. Magic Colour Gels are available in the colours rosé magic and blue magic. NSI: Give your black nails some friends this season by venturing into the oxbloods, midnight blues, amethyst and emerald green colours, the darker the better. Have fun with pastels this Easter and match your nails to your Easter goodies. Celebrate with minty greens, robin’s egg blues, lemony yellows, muted lilacs and petal pinks. Neutrals are known to make your fingers look sleeker and are classic, timeless, clean and definitely chic, so bring out those creams, beiges, taupes and greys. Whether it’s flecked or blanketed, glitter is a must have for autumn. Sparkle like the stars or for a more subdued look or simply dab a little on the tips of your nails. Matte nails add body and luxury to your colour, making neutrals like creams and mushrooms look a little more modern, while jewel tones appear more velvety smooth.

it eliminates the need to use two separate lacquers to achieve the effect as both are combined into one formula. As with all SpaRitual lacquers, the top coats are formulated without DBP, Toluene, Formaldehyde, Formaldehyde Resin and Camphor. The Luminary collection features a speckled, radiant effect including a gold iridescent, Citrine, and purple iridescent, Opaline. Magnetic Gel Foils can be used to create abstract art, Baroque designs or a superb crackle effect. The Gel Transfer Foil, a highly pigmented gel, is suitable for all nail art techniques. Wow – what a choice of ranges and colours to choose from! There is certainly no excuse not to be dressed from top to toe with a meticulous manicure and perfect pedicure in the most up to date autumn nail fashion colours and trends. PB Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: or tel: 076 585 4191

SpaRitual introduces an exciting new top effect category with two additions as part of the signature collection: Mattify Matte Top Effect transforms any glossy polish to a matte finish for a unique and beautiful touch, while the Luminary Matte Top Effect diffuses light with iridescent matte flakes when layered on top of any nail lacquer shade. In addition,

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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product focus – cosmeceuticals


Best of both worlds As the name suggests, cosmeceuticals represent the intersection of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are applied topically, but differ in that they contain active ingredients which manipulate the biological function of the skin.

Big fix A star cosmeceutical product from the DermaFix range is DermaBright, a powerful 3-in-1 treatment utilising mandelic acid, an AHA derived from the hydrolysis of an extract of bitter almonds that has been studied extensively for its uses in treating common skin problems. DermaBright is useful in suppressing pigmentation, treating inflammatory non-cystic acne and rejuvenating photo-aged skin.

Addressing skin types 3-5 The PharmaClinix Advanced Cosmeceuticals range is scientifically designed to treat Asian and Afro skin tones (Fitzpatrick skin types 3-5). Incorporated in a special Nano-liposomal delivery system, the new Lightenex Max Peel is a professional strength chemical de-pigmentation peel which can reduce up to 80% pigmentation in one treatment.

083 442 5739 / 031 829 3847

0861 28 2323

Banishing spider veins Australian brand, Skin Doctors’ Vein Away, has been proven to reduce the appearance of visible spider veins, broken capillaries and burst blood vessels. The product contains Phytotonine, a botanical complex scientifically shown to decrease visible discolouration by 24%, and reduce the appearance of extravascular blood flow by 25% in less than four weeks.

011 486 4904

Special concentrates New to the South African salon market, the skinPhD cosmeceutical range of products rely on bio-active ingredients to provide beneficial changes in the appearance of the skin, working beyond the skin surface to create true change. The range includes specialised products that target specific skin problems such as pigmentation, acne and oily skin, eczema and other medical conditions. skinPhD’s special concentrates address the effect of cellular renewal and skin regeneration, improved barrier function and the stabilisation of collagen and elastin.

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Professional Beauty January/February 2014

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product focus – cosmeceuticals


Under the cover Coverderm’s Luminous range includes AlphaArbutin, a highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor that works wonders in the treatment and prevention of hyperpigmentation. Coverderm’s Peptumax combines five biomimicking protein peptides to slow down the ageing process and relax the muscles that are overstimulated due to repeated facial expressions, as well as repair and protect the skin against photo-ageing.

012 460 1220

Italian style Cosmetici Magistrali’s Jaluronius 2% contains 2% hyaluronic acid, as well as ingredients allowed by the AIAB-ICEA standards for Bio-Ecological cosmetics. This moisturising serum is deal to use after any peels or laser treatments. Also available are Jaluronius Intensive, which contains hyaluronic acid, SNAP-7 (a heptapeptide derived from Argireline) and Pepha Tight (an active ingredient with biotechnological origin and a lifting effect), as well as Jaluronius CS, suitable for use on fragile and sensitive skin as well.

082 393 2888

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

medical aesthetics


Aesthetic trends in

2014 Last year saw many exciting developments in non-surgical anti-ageing and a rise in the popularity of cosmeceutical products. Karen Ellithorne looks at what lies ahead.


he International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine (IAPMA) predicts that 2014 will be an exciting year for aesthetic medicine, particularly because the ‘imageconscious’ population is seeking out new ways and techniques to make them look younger and more vibrant. “Some of us want a fresh start, others are looking for a new job, and some are just looking to make a change for the better,” says the IAPMA. As the South African aesthetic market is not very different to the international market, this article focuses on opinions from local aesthetic doctors, plastic surgeons and medical aesthetic equipment suppliers to ascertain their predictions for 2014. Dr Martin Kelly, a plastic surgeon from Sunninghill Aesthetics, says the plastic surgery market has continued to grow year on year despite the recession, and this trend is sure to continue. ”Non-surgical or minimally invasive procedures have grown at a significantly faster rate,” says Kelly. He believes that in future more and more patients will want minor combination procedures to enhance their antiageing goals.

Dr Mariaan Duvenage, a Pretoria-based dermatologist from Novi Skin, agrees that there was a tangible rise in requests for non-surgical treatments through 2013. “Requests to mimic facelifts, nose jobs and liposuction rose dramatically as patients became more aware that these treatments were possible. Techniques and products, plus combination treatments, allow us to temporarily mimic results from cosmetic surgery and this trend will continue to grow through 2014,” she says.

Non-surgical body shaping Duvenage believes a new trend will emerge with regards to non-surgical body shaping as awareness grows. “Surgical liposuction does offer superb results, but the cost and recovery time are significant factors. Fat freezing offers patients an affordable body-sculpting option that requires no downtime. Minimising downtime will be the biggest trend in 2014. The less discomfort the patient feels the better the procedure, and this will become a common aesthetic medicine search criteria,” explains Duvenage. Kelly agrees, saying that in 2013 Sunninghill Aesthetics noticed a trend towards laser-assisted liposuction, SlimLipo. This procedure offers body sculpting with

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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medical aesthetics

61 less downtime, at cost-effective rates. In 2014 he expects this trend to continue and also predicts an increase in minor SlimLipo procedures for areas such as arms, knees and chins.

Techniques and products, plus combination treatments, allow us to temporarily mimic results from cosmetic surgery and this trend will continue to grow through 2014. Injectables and combination treatments Aesthetic doctor Martina van der Mescht believes there will be a significant growth in younger patients undergoing traditional aesthetic procedures, including Botox and dermal fillers. “The latest buzzword to emanate internationally is subcision, and I believe this technique may well become a household name by the end of 2014. This is a technique that is successfully treating many acne scar types, and, when combined with hyaluronic acid dermal fillers, offers patients predictable and safe results.” She notes that dermal fillers have proven to be safe and effective treatment options to avoid undergoing surgery, or at least to stave off going under the knife. “In 2014 a trend will continue to grow within the combination treatment field. I am a firm believer in smaller, multiple treatments spread throughout the year as a better anti-ageing option than single treatments. This means patients will not pay excessive amounts but rather budget correctly and also never experience significant downtime. “The more patients are educated in this philosophy of anti-ageing, the more it becomes popular and 2014 will prove to be the year it becomes the norm,” continues Van der Mescht. Kelly adds that this year he expects patients to have a better understanding of fat fills. This is a procedure whereby the patient’s own fat can be harvested and reinjected for facial sculpting, anti-ageing and correction of minor deformities. He predicts that in 2014 the trend towards minor surgeries, offering less recovery and social downtime, will

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continue, and will also be combined with aesthetic medicine, such as Botox, fillers and peels. This will result in younger patients visiting the plastic surgeon’s office, as more and more surgeons promote preventative procedures.

Aesthetic equipment 2013 saw the introduction of the Dermapen, an electronic device used to replace manual skin-needling techniques. This is still very popular in aesthetic centres, due to the speed and precision of the treatment and the great results that can be achieved on photo-ageing and scarring. This trend is expected to continue and advance in 2014. Decade Aesthetic Solutions recently announced the introduction of a very exciting piece of technology – Endermolift New Génération – to prevent ageing of the skin by stimulating the natural production of hyaluronic acid within the dermis by 80%. Hyaluronic acid provides volume and hydration to the epidermis, and, as the natural levels decline significantly with age, one starts to notice wrinkles and fine lines, along with sagging of the facial contour. The age-old technology of microdermabrasion also seems to be advancing this year, with the launch of wet and dry versions to further enhance the kerytolytic action and comfort of the treatment. “Microdermabrasion can be used on most photo-ageing skin conditions and is also useful when treating thickened skin and scarring,” says Leigh O’Brien from Bio-Therapeutic. R

What is Subcision? Subcision is a process used to treat deep rolling scars left behind by acne or other skin diseases. It is also used to lessen the appearance of severe glabella lines, though its effectiveness in this application is debatable. Essentially the process involves separating the skin tissue in the affected area from the deeper scar tissue. This allows the blood to pool under the affected area, eventually causing the deep rolling scar to level off with the rest of the skin area. Once the skin has leveled, treatments such as laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion or chemical peels can be used to smooth out the scarred tissue. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

medical aesthetics

62 Viora’s ReLift technology powered by Reaction is a new non-invasive technology that provides a solution for sagging skin and local fat along the neck and jowl line. Available in South Africa from Medilase, it is the only technology in the world that uses four modes of radio frequency energy to target different tissue depths. Heat plus vacuum therapy ensure deeper heat penetration which restores collagen flexibility, improving the skin’s elasticity. It also increases local blood circulation, stimulates lymphatic drainage and assists in the shrinkage of fat cell volume.

Cosmeceutical products Duvenage foresees that in 2014 the use of results-driven homecare products will continue to be on the increase. She stresses that home care is an essential element in the fight against wrinkles, but high costs have been a factor in the past. “With competition and comparisons, the cosmeceutical market

Eye treatments

Treatment of the delicate eyelid area will become a big trend.

has stabilised and I believe we will see more and more patients moving towards augmenting their aesthetic results with high-quality home care,” she explains.

Van Der Mescht’s final prediction involves the treatment of the delicate eyelid area. “As we age and our stress levels increase, our eyes often give our age away. In the past no real option was available to treat this delicate area, but towards the end of 2014 I predict that we will make strides towards treating this area with both dermal fillers and home care.” Now that a predictable option is available for the eyes, it may very well become a big trend for the year. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years.Email: karen@

hair news


Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Innovative stylers Manufactured by ghd, Glampalm’s three advanced hair stylers contain patented Healing Stone, which is infused into the ceramic healing plates that protect hair from damage. A specialised ceramic coating ensures smoother sliding and the release of anions for softer, glossier hair. Glampalm’s Standard Magic Series Iron is ideal for straightening and curling short to medium-length hair, while the Wide Magic Series Iron is suited to longer, thicker hair. The Magic Wand is designed to create loose curls without compromising length.

071 606 0108

Long tail nicciG Professional Hair Extensions has launched a human hair wrap-around ponytail, which wraps around the client’s own ponytail simply and quickly, looking as natural as if it was her own hair. Hairdressers can heat, style and colour the ponytail to the client’s requirements. The ponytail is packaged in a Lou Harvey cosmetics bag.

082 650 5337

Slick tresses

Lightweight organic Argan oil, liquid gold of Morocco, is a natural oil, rich in essential fatty acids and Vitamin E. Ideal for coloured and treated hair, Argan Care Vitalizing shampoo and balm includes thermal and UV-protection filters. Moisture Smoothie is an intensive hydrating mask that deeply moisturises and nourishes hair, while Healing Smoothie is a reconstructive mask that helps to restore chemically and mechanically damaged hair.

Moroccanoil has launched four products, including Heat Styling Protection, which creates a thermal protective veil that lets hair withstand extreme heat. Designed for flat, limp hair that needs an instant boost, Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse is a weightless styling product. Moroccanoil Styling Gel is infused with Argan oil and combines the hold, sleekness and shine of a gel. Lastly, Moroccanoil Molding Cream is a workable, pliable formula infused with thickening fibres.

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011 305 1600

Liquid gold

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Professional Beauty March/April 2014

product news

65 Spa for the body r The new Babor Spa Body Care range combines the latest discoveries of stem cell research with exquisite fragrance compositions. Babor uses the original powers of the centuries old rare fruits champagne pears and elsberries to create an active anti-ageing effect. The range comprises: Babor Spa Shaping for Body; Babor Spa Energizing Lime Mandarin; Babor Spa Relaxing Lavender Mint; and Babor Spa Balancing Cashmere Wood.

011 467 0110

In the market

Products from nature


Intelligent cream

Manufactured at Nature’s Beauty Creations (NBC), the largest and leading manufacturer of herbal cosmetics in Sri Lanka, the Nature’s Secrets range of skin care products is now available in South Africa. Nature’s Secrets products use the purest, locally grown natural ingredients directly from source

082 673 8465


Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.

With CC Crème, Phytomer has created a super intelligent product that combines makeup and skin care. CC Crème naturally enhances the skin through its multi-action effects of moisturising, pore-refining, radiance enhancing, unifying and protecting, all at the same time. This skin perfecting cream is the perfect product for foundation fans and skin purists alike and is ideal for the busy woman seeking a multi-function cream. It contains complexion enhancing pigments and ‘soft focus’ powders that melt on the skin and instantly bring it brightness and radiance.

011 486 4904

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Professional Beauty March/April 2014

product news

66 Even complexion r


Banishing wrinkes

The Antiwrinkle Caviar Omega 3 Cream from Juliette Armand combats the signs of ageing and reduces and prevents the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. It contains Salmo Ovum caviar and microcapsules of Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids. Caviar is rich in protein, vitamins and amino acids and accelerates the natural process of collagen production.

!QMS Medicosmetics has launched SkinTone Light Serum, specifically designed to target age spots and hyperpigmentation. The synergistic effect of soy isoflavone, garden cress extract, hexyl resorcinol and oligopeptide-34 blocks the synthesis of melanin in different phases, resulting in the gentle lightening of existing dark spots as well as the inhibition of future pigment accumulation.

011 033 0500

0860 01 80 22

Energetic weight loss r

Skin revival R

GoGo Health Herbal weight loss supplements speed up the metabolic rate through thermagenics and assists the body to convert fat into energy while supressing the appetite. The tablets encourage water intake, raise energy levels and detox the body. All products are manufactured in South Africa and all ingredients compliant with the Medical Council of South Africa.

082 8927899

Reviving new skin and stimulating blood circulation enhances the skin’s natural glow. As the season changes to autumn and the cold slowly creeps in, the skin slows down its metabolism, leaving a dull, tender peeling appearance. Placecol Gentle Exfoliating Serum will improve skin texture, radiance as well as product penetration without making the skin feel tight and dry.

0861 11 22 22

‘Faking’ it r Burst Studio has introduced an affordable range of synthetic professional makeup brushes. This 12- piece set comprises a stipple brush, flat foundation brush, large powder brush, slanted contouring, blusher brush, large and medium broad dome eye shadow brushes, soft blending brush, slanted defining eye shadow brush, pencil brush, angled brow brush and a lipstick brush.

082 388 4098

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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product news

67 Radical sunscreen r In response to the demand for spray-on sunscreens, Environ has produced its Environ RAD Spray SPF25. This broad spectrum, medium protection sunscreen contains four different sunscreen elements which offer UVA and UVB protection. It includes vitamin E, rosemary leaf extract and colourless carotenoids, derived from tomatoes and which have been scientifically proven to assist in protection against free radical and sun damage.

Sonic action R The DermaFix Sonic Skin Care Brush gently removes remnants of makeup and environmental pollutants accumulated on the skin during the day. Its gentle sonic action deeply cleanses and exfoliates.

0861 28 23 23

0800 220 402

To become a City & Guilds approved centre, contact us on online at

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

business tips

68 Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

Professional Beauty Cape Town 2014 SAAHSP once again hosted the SAAHSP seminars at Professional Beauty Cape Town. Speakers included Dr Kateryna Tsvietkova, who spoke on the indications, effectiveness and methodology of cupping therapy for facial lifting. Janine Thomson spoke on the recognition and treatment of minor skin irregularities, blemishes and lesions. Education chairlady Tracy Chambers gave an excellent presentation on light therapy, and CIDESCO PR board member Sandy Roy demonstrated body masks,

wraps and scrubs. Vivian Thompson presented the fundamentals of natural, attractive semi-permanent artistry. Beverley Bartholomew gave a riveting talk on How to embrace innovation for a sustainable future and How great brands focus on being innovative. She emphasised the danger of becoming stagnant and complacent, and urged delegates never to stop pushing, as great brands don’t settle for their current level of success.

CIDESCO World Congress in South Africa 2015 What a privilege for us as SAAHSP, the CIDESCO section for South Africa, to be able to invite you all to attend the 63rd CIDESCO WORLD CONGRESS & EXHIBITION in Sandton, South Africa, from 20 - 25 May 2015. We feel privileged and honoured to be able to host an event of this magnitude. Students, therapists, salon- and spa-owners, lecturers, principals, corporates, cosmetic-companyowners and their staff are invited to join us at this prestigious and informative event. You will be able to meet and network with colleagues from all over the globe. You will have the opportunity to up-skill your knowledge by attending dynamic lectures suited to everyone’s individual needs. There will be student programmes

and lectures for those of you who are in practice and are hungry to learn more, as well as to meet and mix with colleagues - like minds that are driven to make a difference to a client’s self-esteem and to build successful businesses. We are thrilled that once again we have been given an opportunity to show the world what a wonderful country we have and how much we have to offer. You, too, are their hosts, so please join us to make this an event that CIDESCO members worldwide will never forget. If you want your business to feature in our newsletter, or to become a corporate member of SAAHSP, visit our website or contact Rossetta on 011 675 6518 or email Maja Grewe – SAAHSP PRO

Professional Beauty March/April 2014

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