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TREND SPOTTING What’s hot in spas and aesthetics

DON’T SELL YOURSELF SHORT Top tips for retail

Feb 2021 | probeauty.co.za


Focus on African skin


In this issue... Regulars

Spa Focus

7 Industry news

28 A South African’s tour of beauty in New Zealand

Local and international news

39 Crowning glory What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

46 In the market All the latest launches

Business 17 Ask the Experts All your questions answered

18 The gap between ‘green say’ and ‘green do’ Translating sustainability intentions into actions

22 Top 5 tips for retailing Ramp up your retail sales

Practice Focus 24 Nubian Medical Aesthetics on expansion path Bespoke African Treatments

Interview 25 Talking to…Elaine Okeke Martin Spa & Wellness Association of



Rozanne Pelser provides insight into the industry

29 On trend and on point What’s trending in spa

Features 33 Treating African skin A medical doctor’s perspective

34 Fifty shades of black Products for darker Fitzpatrick skin types

40 Zap those zits Machine-based acne treatments

44 Potent potions for the skin Serums to boost the complexion

Aesthetic medicine 42 Resolute aesthetic treatments 2021 Predicting this year’s trends



47 NailFile Issue 38

Africa founder

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Beauté Pacifique presents

Promotional Feature


Microscope on Microneedling

The Africa division of Danish medical grade skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, embarked on an 8-month long trial focused on the clinical interrogation of controlled damage scenarios to the skin’s upper tissues, using a pen containing tiny needles to puncture the skin and induce a healing response.


n the treatment modality known as microneedling, the micro-injuries caused to the skin stimulate its natural ability to heal itself and induce the production of fresh collagen, encouraging and harnessing the body’s innate ability to regrow and repair through normal physiological processes. This results in skin that is rejuvenated and refreshed. Beauté Pacique’s microneedling trial was conducted on 6 South African patients of various ethnicities, skin types and conditions and the results were astounding! Results were recorded via Beauté Pacifique’s DermaScan Medical Ultrasound device, which can measure the skin’s structures reaching its deepest layers. This high resolution ultrasound imagery was supported by photographic evidence compiled to compare the results over the trial period, under the watchful eye of Dr Nadia Dannhauser of For

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Beautiful Life Medical Aesthetics in Johannesburg, Tasneem Valley (Medical Aesthetician) and Beauté Pacifique Africa’s Julia Wills (International Master Trainer). These findings, treatment protocols and techniques are now

findings, and qualitative feedback from patients during the South African trial. Patient client cards, consent forms and Beauté Pacifique’s unique Sterile Product Treatment Kit are provided for professional use, as is the Beauté Pacifique Medical Institute Certification.

Case Study: Afro Specific Post Acne Scarring/ Hyperpigmentation (using Beauté Pacifique’s Super3 Booster)

presented as a Beauté Pacifique one-day training programme at Beauté Pacifique’s education facilities nationwide. Reserve your space with Julia Wills on julia@ blueskyinternational.co.za today. Only 8 delegates per session. The cost of the course is R490 and includes a training case study manual with detailed in-clinic treatments, home care régimes, local and international clinical

Research findings

The photographic images revealed a dramatic healing of active acne within 2 months. No post acne pits were evident. Pigmentation evidently lightened, particularly on severe areas such as the mandible and cheeks. The skin texture was more refined and skin tone had evened out. Pores were diminished and luminescence dramatically improved, exhibiting a healthy glow. The patient’s acne condition was fully under control.


Medical DermaScan Ultrasound

and limiting TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Skin repaired and appeared robust, presenting a lasting healthy and hydrated glow. Evidence of rejuvenation continuing throughout the full epidermal layer. 2. Observe Rejuvenation of COLLAGEN and ELASTIN Fibrestructure Treatment Result: effective cosmeceutical penetration and dermal structure density improvement indicated by DermaScan 4 echo colour change from black to ‘awakened’ green and healthy yellow and white echo, closer to the shallower epidermal layer. The patient confirmed that this has resulted in tighter skin. 3. Anti-Aging Active Ingredient Delivery into the deepest layers of the skin Treatment Result: Dramatic, deep density improvement post treatment evident.

Qualitative feedback from patient ‘’I have battled with acne since I was 15 years old and tried various treatments and products. At the age of 25, I discovered Beauté Pacifique. The Ultrasound revealed that Super3 Booster and microneedling has healed my acne within 2 months. My results are wonderful and the pigmentation is almost clear. I’m using the Pigmentation Kit. My skin has a beautiful glow – it’s amazing. I’m so happy!’’ Tsegofatso



In the first of the Beauté Pacifique microneedling trial case studies, the patient was a Fitzpatrick 6 skin type. Her skin was oily (albeit with tiny pores) and superficially dehydrated. She had severe hyperpigmented scarring – the result of having suffered from acne when she was younger. While the skin didn’t yet show any signs of ageing, there were some small pustules on her chin area. Her Treatment Plan included the following Beauté Pacifique regime and products Cleanse: Milky Cleanser Dry Skin 5ml Tone: Enriched Toner Dry Skins 2.5ml Exfoliate: Gentle Facial Exfoliator 15ml (containing Glycerine and Cellulose Acetate) was massaged into the skin and left on to hydrate for 10 minutes. Needle Depth: 0.2mm - 0.7mm needle depth depending on area. (Forehead – 0.5, Eye 0.2, Nose 0.5, Cheeks 0.7 and chin 0.7) Glide Medium: Super3 (Vitamin A) Booster Tone: Enriched Toner Dry Skins 2.5ml Moisturise: Moisturising Cream for Dry Skins 5ml or 2 pipette drops of Submersive Serum Paradoxe with 0.2ml Stay Beautiful SPF30. The client fell asleep during the treatment and felt no pain, other than a little sensitivity on her hairline. She was happy with the results after the first microneedling session, and commented that her skin felt exceptionally clean and hydrated. This was the first of 6, monthly treatments. Home care consisted of twice daily cleansing with Gentle Cleansing Foam, as well the application Paradoxe Day Cream every morning and Super3 Booster at night for the duration of the trial. Stay Beautiful SPF 30 Sunscreen was prescribed every morning, as was the use of Tyrostase Pigment Equaliser to lighten the pigmentation.

For more information contact Beauté Pacifique International Master Trainer, Julia Wills, on julia@blueskyinternational.co.za

1. Observe Rejuvenation of the EPIDERMIS Treatment Result: thicker, smoother epidermis protecting the underlying cellular fibrestructure

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Promotional Feature





ust as we were finalising this issue of Professional Beauty, it was announced that South Africa had received its first shipment of COVID-19 vaccines. While the vaccine roll-out will take months to implement across the country, it is a least a glimmer of hope that we may have some chance of combatting this horrific virus, which has taken millions of lives and destroyed so many livelihoods around the world. In our lead article, we report on how salons found business over the festive season and also in January. Generally, it seems that business was recovering nicely at the beginning of the holiday season until the second wave of COVID-19 infections hit, when clients became understandably anxious, resulting in cancellations and depleted bookings. By the time you read this, hopefully the country will have got over the worst of the second wave and vaccinations will start making an impact. There are lots of articles of interest in this issue, such as top retailing tips, an interview with a pioneering figure in the African spa and wellness sector (Elaine Okeke Martin), this year’s trends in both spa and aesthetic medicine, and an expert’s view that good intentions regarding sustainability are not enough – they must be translated into actions. We have also included a special feature on treating African skin. Considering that the vast majority of South Africans belong to the darker Fitzpatrick skin types, this is a hugely important segment of the market. Therapists and salons need be equipped with the expertise and products for this skin type. We include advice from a medical doctor on how to treat African skin, as well as the latest products.


Joanna Sterkowicz: Editor




What’s hot in spas and aesthetics


Feb 2021 | probeauty.co.za

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

011 781 5970


Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970


Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970


Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970


Operations Executive Obey Dube 011 781 5970


Carla Hamman Sales Consultant


Top tips for retail

Publisher Mark Moloney


Accountant Letitia Rabie

084 894 6172 carla@probeauty.co.za

011 781 5970


Focus on African skin

Cover source: Photo by iCapture Studios from Pexels Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com

Salons hard hit by second wave Christmas called Mindful Gifting and managed to sign a few corporate deals where we supply these boxes to clients,” notes Izandi Serdyn.


The second wave of COVID-19 infections that hit South Africa in December 2020 adversely affected salon business, with client cancellations, depleted bookings and a drop in retail sales. Says Helene Bramwell of The Mask in Parkview: “Having been in practice for more than 50 years, I am dumb struck at the frightening effect this devestating virus has had on business. Clients are afraid to make appointments and their families are keeping the older clients at home. No matter how much we insist that our salon’s safety protocols are in strictly in place, the ‘fear factor’ is stopping many from making an appointment and understandably so. If I feel there is a resistance with any of my clients, I suggest they don’t make an appointment as there is no point having a client who is afraid, especially when we are offering care.” Bramwell notes that turnover dropped about 70% over the festive season and clients cut down on their product and treatment spend.

Increased safety measures Ayesha Rajah of Urban Glow in Emmarentia reports that while she had a good December despite it being down on the previous year, January was ‘shocking’. She continues: “This is mostly because we enhanced our COVID-19 safety

measures and told clients they could only come back 10 days after their holidays. Obviously this severely impacted the bottom line but the lives of my staff and family come first. Business picked up slightly in the third week of January.” December was also bad for The Beauty Clinic in East London. Says co-owner Pieter Olivier: “Turnover was only 40% of December 2019 and we hardly sold any gift vouchers, which are usually so popular during the holidays. Granted, we were operating with fewer therapists as some of them unfortunately got sick and had to stay away, but we went into January not having to phone one single supplier as we were fully stocked. Fortunately most of our suppliers agreed to payment plans, with some even providing gifts for our clients. “January was also very tough. On 1 February we introduced a gift voucher where we basically gave away a lot of services and the response was great.” HEAL mobile spa services ran a few December/ January specials. “These did amazingly well under the circumstances, with a 10-15% discount on all treatments and products. We also launched a new concept just in time for

Esna Colyn, CEO of the Imbalie Beauty Group, reports that its Placecol, Dream Nails and Perfect 10 salons had recovered very well up to the commencement of the second wave. “Thereafter, our salons did experience many cancellations and no shows as a result of customers being exposed to other COVID-19 positive people,” states Colyn. “We traded down in January 2021 in comparison to the prior year, mainly as a result of customers being cautions and all working towards a reduction in the number of infections.” In terms of the Sorbet Group, CEO Linda Sinclair says: “Our festive season trading numbers were down compared to 2019 notwithstanding that as an industry and brand, we were extremely hard hit by the pandemic. However, our overall performance over the festive season was higher than anticipated and was driven by an increase in treatments. This is testament to our stringent safety measures, our strength as a brand and to our Franchise Partners and Citizens who are living our core values of servant leadership. “In January, we saw a decline in foot traffic into our stores due to the second wave but retail sales showed a stronger contribution due to an increase in demand for home treatments.”



Professional Beauty announces virtual events series for industry With large gatherings still prohibited due to COVD-19 lockdown restrictions as the country battles with the second wave of infections, Professional Beauty will run monthly virtual expos and conferences for the foreseeable future. These exciting industry events will showcase the latest products from top brands, running alongside informative conferences with expert speakers. Each month is assigned to a specific theme, as in: Beauty; Nails; Spa & Wellness; Lashes; Brows & Make-up; and Aesthetic Medicine. Says Phil Woods, commercial director of Professional Beauty: “At a time when it’s not possible for the industry to convene physically, we will be hosting outstanding virtual events to bring the industry together, on a platform that includes networking lounges and speed dating sessions where

delegates can connect directly with brands. This interactive, high tech platform has been developed by the UK-based Professional Beauty Group.” The Professional Beauty Online Events Calendar is as follows: • March 8th – Aesthetic Medicine Virtual Conference & Exhibition • April 12th – Professional Beauty Virtual Conference & Exhibition • May 3rd – Spa & Wellness Virtual

IMA acknowledges World Wellness Weekend founder

Jean-Guy de Gabriac

Jean-Guy de Gabriac of Tip Touch International, the founder of World Wellness Weekend, has been appointed an educational ambassador of the IMA (International Massage Association). De Gabriac, who is based in Belgium and France, is well online @ probeauty.co.za

known to the Professional Beauty Group community as the coordinator of the World Spa & Wellness Convention in London. Says an IMA statement: “We wanted to acknowledge 18 remarkable educators around the world for their constant efforts to support our profession through elevated trainings and workshops. These passionate and dedicated educators, whose vocation is to inspire and empower professionals to touch lives and not just skin, through massage workshops in advanced techniques as well as body mechanics, elevate spa operations to enrich the guest experience and create transformational wellness modalities.”

Conference & Exhibition • June 7th – Nails Virtual Conference & Exhibition • July 5th – Make-Up, Lashes & Brows Virtual Conference & Exhibition For more information go to www.probeauty.co.za

Could 2021 be the year of ‘Skinimalism’? Social media platform Pinterest forecasts that ‘skinimalism’ is set to trend strongly this year. ‘Skinimalism’ will see clients letting their natural skin texture shine through and is described as a new wave of natural, minimal or no-make-up beauty looks. The ‘Pinterest Predicts: The Soonto-be-Trending Report for 2021’ is compiled using data pertaining to Pinterest’s global search volumes between August 2019 to July 2020. According to the report, pins for ‘face yoga exercises’ and ‘glowing skin – how to get [it] naturally’ have both soared +4x, while ‘natural everyday make-up’ searches have increased 180%. (Source: Professional Beauty UK)

Photo by Chris Montgomery on Unsplash



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HEAL launches body and skincare ranges Mobile spa services company HEAL has launched its own natural ranges of oils, body and room products, with a skincare range due for release shortly. Says HEAL co-owner, Izandi Serdyn: “We offer mobile spa services all across South Africa to anyone who needs them. In this way we also offer therapists an extra income on the side, which is so desperately needed at the moment. “Late year we launched our HEALING range, with the motto, ‘Bring more HEAL-ING home’. The response since launching has been incredible. Our Sleep oil, which is safe for all ages including babies, is by far our top seller and client’s feedback has been phenomenal. “The most magical thing about this whole products adventure is that I’m not a therapist, nor do I have any background in the beauty industry. It’s just a calling but I’m loving every minute of it.” She notes that HEAL products are only tested on humans and that all ingredients, manufacturing and packaging (which is 100% biodegradeable) are locally sourced. “We are currently finalsing our Face range. Obviously the development process of this range has been more complex than with the other ranges. We have conducted extensive research to ensure the HEAL Face range will

Photo by Lisa Brown be unique and perfectly match what is needed in the market.” Serdyn reveals that if it hadn’t been for the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown, the ranges would never have been born. She continues: “I had loads of time on my hands at home and have the most amazing friend with in-depth knowledge of the beauty industry who has helped me every step of the way. “We initially started the product side of HEAL with manufacturing only five oils per week, but this soon grew to a hundred and we couldn’t keep up with orders. Luckily I found a marvellous factory that specialises in this field. E-commerce sites don’t allow you to list anything without all the required tests and certification, which I feel is fantastic to ensure the Proudly South African

endorsement and putting a valued product on the market.” HEAL therapists will be equipped with the HEALING kits to ensure the best possible service to their clients.

Izandi Serdyn

Changes at SA Spa Association The South African Spa Association is offering free membership to the spa industry, including representation in all related aspects, such as health and wellness, tourism and hospitality, education and training. Free membership benefits include the Spa Association logo

and digital certificate. All Spa Association members receive, and are allowed to use, the logo and certificate during active membership status on their website, as well as in collateral marketing material, promotions and client communication. Each spa is site inspected to make sure it conforms to the code of

conduct and must pass the Site Inspection test. Another benefit is a free listing on the SA Spa Association website, including the name of spa, category, area, website (not linked) and telephone number. The Spa Association also offers paid membership benefits

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Business Trends News


Leeu Spa under new management Healing Earth, the South African spa brand founded by Elizabeth Brandt, has taken over management at the Spa at Leeu Estates in Franschhoek. The spa, which first opened in June 2017, is now known as Leeu Spa by Healing Earth and managed by the award-winning Alida Brynard. As to how the management deal came about, Brandt says: “The Healing Earth and Leeu Collection brands are perfectly aligned, and the partnership came about seamlessly and organically, with our vision and business plan perfectly matching what the group had in mind as part of their best-in-class partnership for the spa.” The spa reopened on 6 November last year (after having shut on 17 March due to the COVID-19 lockdown) with a new, but smaller team. “We have created a Spa Menu that caters to the need of each and every guest,” explains Brandt. “There has certainly been a demand for more packages, which we have catered to by adding the options of Full Day Packages for guests really wanting to spend the whole day with us. Our menu has been inspired by the vineyards and beautiful surroundings of the Cape winelands, which is hard to compete with. Also, there is the addition of the VIP Pomegranate Cottage Suite, which offers our guests complete privacy and luxury. The new menu has been very well received by our guests and we are seeing them steer away from the 60-minute treatments and indulge in longer experiences.” Commenting on future plans that incorporate wellness, Brandt notes that the spa team is keeping abreast of the latest developments regarding COVID regulations and restrictions. “As soon as we have a clearer picture of the way forward, we will start working towards fulfilling the current need for carefully curated holistic wellbeing online @ probeauty.co.za

retreats. We will focus particularly on executive retreats for those wanting to refocus, distress and rejuvenate, as well as individuals looking to detoxify their bodies and minds.”

Booking demand Contrary to the expectation that bookings would be slow once the spa reopened on 6 November due to the state of travel bans and financial limitations resulting from job losses, guest interest in bookings really took off in October. Says Brandt: “Our spa manager had constantly been communicating with guests throughout lockdown to keep track of requests and we found that, amazingly, guests had money to

spend on packages. We increased our average treatment price by 31% and our Average Guest spend increased by 55% due to retail performance. Many guests have rebooked for future treatments. “We have a very good mix of inhouse and external guests. When the properties/ hotels are booked, we receive many booking requests. We proudly cater to our local guests and as we are located on a destination property, guests plan a day out and easily drive an hour from the southern and northern suburbs to enjoy their treatments with us. Leeu Spa by Healing Earth loves having our local communities visit the spa; we know their preferences and they have become our regulars.”

ask Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.


I offer eyelash extension services at my salon and wonder if the wearing of COVID face masks affects lash application and retention?

t has recently been established that one reason for poor lash retention is the wearing of face masks during a treatment. This is because a large amount of moisture gathers in the mask during a lash treatment, which is then released through the top of the mask onto the lashes. Although eyelash extension adhesive is reliant on moisture to cure, too much moisture is not a good thing as the adhesive cures a lot faster than usual, resulting in poor lash retention. This dynamic can also cause adhesive blooming or lash blooming, which occurs when adhesive vapours come into contact with too much moisture before the adhesive has time to cure. The technical term for the cyanoacrylate blooming is called chlorosis, when the monomers in the adhesive cure into small clumps or clusters that appear white or frosted. Not only is this unattractive, it is also irritating to the eyes and the lash extensions will most certainly not last as long as they should. To prevent the blooming process, you should ensure that there is sufficient and properly regulated ventilation within your

working environment at all times, for the adhesive to work at its best.

Top tips Change the client’s mask to a disposable one before the treatment, as these are a lot easier to tape down to reduce moisture coming out the top. Tape the top of mask down with Transpore Tape. Ask clients to keep talking to a minimum, because talking creates even more moisture and causes the mask to move. Keep a constant check and control on the humidity and temperature levels. I recommend a temperature of between 19-24 degrees Celsius and a Relative Humidity of between 40-55%. Purchasing a thermohygrometer will help you to monitor this. If your adhesive is setting too quickly, it could be that the temperature and humidity levels are too high. In this case, cool your room down. Using a de-humidifier will also assist. Conversely, adhesive will set too slowly if the temperature and humidity levels are too low. Use a more versatile adhesive that

adjusts to different environments. Ensure that you use your adhesive according to manufacturer’s guidelines. Allow the bottle to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes prior to treatment. Shake the bottle for approximately 20 seconds before dispensing it. Use just the right amount and change your adhesive bead every 15 minutes, or as soon as it starts to set. Store your adhesive properly. Never take the whole top off the bottle, as air and moisture will enter, causing the glue to deteriorate. Clean the nozzle after every use with a lint free wipe. Do not use cotton wool or baby wipes as the fibres can react with the adhesive and could cause an exothermic reaction.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands. She is the South African distributor for The Eyelash Emporium. sonette@eyelashemporium.co.za

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Business Business Trends Tips

Photo by Polina Tankilevitch from Pexels


Image from Pixabay

New Business BusinessFocus Tips


The gap between ‘green say’ and ‘green do’ The time to take actual action in terms of sustainability is now, as Charne le Roux of GreenSpa.Africa writes Thinking is easier than doing and unfortunately, the reluctance to act that humans so often exhibit has spilled over into the sustainable choices that we exercise. Most of us express a preference for green products but not enough of our intention translates to action yet. Harvard Business Review published an analysis of this dilemma late last year and proposed ways to bridge the gap. online @ probeauty.co.za

These solutions work will equally well for the spa industry.

Make sustainable behaviour the default option Guests should have to ask for extra towels, straws, paper copies and disposable wear. This will break the habits created by the familiar spa environment, where green is often seen as the opposite of luxury and

pampering, and an abundance of linen, single use containers and disposables are present. Breaking a bad habit first, and then replacing it with a greener alternative will generate sustainable behaviour in the long term. Consider using lights that activate on a need-to basis only and station printers and photocopiers in separate areas (to avoid the VOC gases that they emit) so that they don’t

19 Business Tips

serve as gathering points during coffee breaks.

The power of social influencing is well known

Breaking a bad habit first, and then replacing it with a greener alternative will generate sustainable behaviour in the long term. us and those that we admire. Harness this knowledge to persuade staff and guests to switch to action. Use messages such as the following examples, which are all very effective. ‘Most spas in our area are reducing their share in pollution by refusing to use plastic – we can too.’ ‘Our guests buy eco-friendly products.’ ‘Our manager cycles to work / drives an electric car / composts her waste.’

One good deed is likely to be followed by more Often, a domestic action like reducing household waste, composting or having meat-free days spills over to corporate decisions to adopt more sustainable business practices. Encourage and acknowledge these first actions by your employees and use them to build commitment. Engage staff and guests rationally and emotionally, but do not overdo the guilt trip. Driving messages around pride, by offering praise for example, have far more effect than

Photo by Dominika Roseclay from Pexels

What others do and own have always been important decision drivers. None of us want to stand out, especially in a socially unacceptable way. We want to fit in and so will often conform to the behaviour of people around

criticism. The rational message must also carry real and concrete meaning for the person who receives it. Consider an analysis around savings and gains, for example: ‘The upfront capital expense will save x% of energy costs in the next 10 years.’ ‘Switching to cold water for one year can save enough energy to charge your phone for a lifetime.’ Other examples of contextual messages are: ‘Composting feeds the soil which feeds the plant – fertilizer only feeds the plant.’ ‘The weekly waste generated by our spa at the moment can fill a pool’ or ‘a Vichy shower uses about 800-1,100 l of water – that is 10 bathtubs filled’.

The words we use We can, lastly, also watch our language. Words such as ‘sustainability’ and ‘eco-friendly’ are often seen as confusing, irrelevant and meaningless, especially in a market where greenwashing is rife. If you ask a person if she supports sustainable agriculture or a circular economy, you are very likely to get a blank stare. On the other hand, a question whether she thinks it is important to buy food from local farmers, or products that can be re-purposed when they reach the end of their life cycle, is far more likely to get

Provide a simple message that breaks down the concept of ‘sustainability’ into elements that are meaningful, such as saving energy and water, helping a community and reducing waste. a positive response. Provide a simple message that breaks down the concept of ‘sustainability’ into elements that are meaningful, such as saving energy and water, helping a community and reducing waste. Tell a story that connects to people’s daily lives and make it easier to take action. Charne le Roux is a leading sustainability expert in the wellness industry and the founder of GreenSpa. Africa. She was a senior partner in the law firm Adams & Adams, heading the firm’s sustainability initiative as an accredited professional of the Green Building Council. Le Roux developed the first dedicated organic spa in South Africa, is the author of the Green Spa Guide, and developed a sustainability audit tool for spas and salons, the Green Spa Calculator. charne@greenspa.africa

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Top 5

tips for retailing Founder of The Sales Habit Academy, Kerry-Lee Viljoen, provides valuable pointers on how to get therapists to ramp up their retail skills.


have been in the beauty industry for several years now and having personally experienced the lack of education and fear when it comes to selling retail products, this made me want to change something and help others in the industry who feel the same way. Unfortunately selling isn’t taught to us in beauty school, but it’s expected of us in our jobs and even worse, we are expected to be good at it. “My job is to perform treatments, not to sell products.” Sound familiar? Can you imagine booking an appointment to see a doctor, then having the doctor take one good look at you, doing a vague check-up and not giving you a prescription or any helpful advice? Therapists may not be doctors,

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but we are beauty professionals and it’s our job to provide our clients with honest, results-driven homecare based on their concerns. This is why it’s so important to learn, practise and understand the process of selling. Because, like it or not my fellow beauty professional, it’s your job to sell retail products. So instead of putting it off and getting away with selling the bare minimum, rather get comfortable with the uncomfortable, embrace it and learn the skill of selling. Who knows, you might actually be good at it?

Tip 1 - First impressions count! The fact is that a first impression is made within the first seven seconds of meeting someone, so your credibility and professionalism are taking that test

in those first seven seconds. What first impression do you make? Would you book a treatment with you? Would you be impressed with you? You could be the best facialist in the world but if you don’t look the part, or sound the part, no-one would ever know it. Therefore, it’s crucial to deliver an exceptional first impression. Become selfaware and know how you come across.

Tip 2 – Plant the seedling during consultation The most powerful tool you can use during a consultation is: THE CONSULTATION FORM. If you aren’t using a thorough consultation form, or at least a simple consultation form, you aren’t doing yourself any favours but rather a disservice. The importance of the client

Photo by Francesca Grima on Unsplash

Business Tips


consultation is underestimated most of the time within our industry. It’s by far one of the most, if not THE most important aspect of the treatment. The client consultation is an important time for you to get to know the client and it’s the main opportunity for you, as the therapist, to find out the reasons

Therapists may not be doctors, but we are beauty professionals and it’s our job to provide our clients with honest, results-driven homecare based on their concerns. WHY your client has come to see you today. The real reason why. You, as their therapist, need to dig a little deeper to find out what really concerns your client – their true concern. You can do this by asking the right open-ended questions.

Tip 3 – Educate your client Share your knowledge of the skin and body, in the most simplified

terms, with your client. Explain things verbally or using a simple diagram. This is the opportunity for you, as the expert, to explain to the client what the cause of her concern is and how this treatment, with emphasis on the products (homecare), is going to help to eliminate her concern completely. It’s important that your client understands WHY they have the problem in the first place. Then follow with the ‘prescription’ to eliminate their concern. When you, as the therapist, have established what their core concern is, and you have clearly explained the cause of their concern, the homecare advice you give her will be much more useful and valuable at the end of the treatment. This is because your ‘prescription’ will be solving her problem, by giving her a ‘solution’ to eliminate her concern.

Tip 4 - Dedicate time to recommend products It’s important to not rush this part of the sales process. Recommending products shouldn’t be as transactional as it sounds. You need to describe it as a transformation instead, a transformation that they desire – solving their true concern. This is the part of the entire process where it all comes together: the consultation, the education and the treatment. You are ‘prescribing’ to them what they NEED to continue doing at home in order to get optimal results. Bonus tip: use keywords like programmes, packages or even kits to sell a regime and not just a singular product.

Tip 5 – Ask for the sale

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As the old saying goes, ‘if you never ask, you will never know’. This stage is

also known as closing the sale. But before we close the sale, we need to hear the ‘yes’ first. Recommending is ‘telling’ your client what they need to continue using at home to get optimal results. Closing is asking them if they are actually going to do it. A successfully proven closing technique is the two-option close. When you give someone two options, they are likely to choose one of the options presented. The best way to implement this is by creating two separate personalised programmes for your clients according to their concerns; Programme 1 being budget-friendly, Programme 2 being ‘everything that they

A successfully proven closing technique is the two-option close. When you give someone two options, they are likely to choose one of the options presented. need!’ Then, clearly present your client with both options and finally, ask your client for the sale: “Kerry, which one would you like to start out with today?” Once the question is asked, let your client answer first before saying anything else. Don’t say a word. Just by following and practicing these five simple tips, you will see an improvement in your retail sales. Always remember to be

Kerry-Lee Viljoen is the founder and host of the Redlips & Stilettos Podcast and the creator of The Sales Habit Academy. Viljoen has been working abroad for the past five years, experiencing multiple sales environments relating to the beauty industry. She trains The Sales Habit to spas, beauty colleges and beauty professionals around South Africa. KerryViljoen@hotmail.com

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Practice Focus Interveiw


Nubian Medical Aesthetics on expansion path A Pretoria-based aesthetics practice specialising in bespoke African treatments is set to open new branches this year, writes Joanna Sterkowicz Nubian Medical Aesthetics in Menlyn, Pretoria, was officially opened for business in May 2019, by Dr Zama Tladi, a medical doctor who focuses on aesthetic treatments. Says Dr Tladi: “We have several clients in Johannesburg who do travel to our Menlyn branch, but in order to be more convenient and reach more customers, we now want to extend our services to more people and open further branches. “Our plan is to initially run the new branches, while making provisions for the possibility of new ownership and franchising down the line. I am a big believer in creating employment and career opportunities to boost our economy and am also passionate about my craft. So, sharing my knowledge, skills and seeing the skin that we treat transform, is truly rewarding and my life’s work.” Plans are to open new practices in Johannesburg, in areas such as Sandton and Bedfordview, during 2021 and several prospective sites have been viewed in this regard. While there are already several aesthetic practices in Johannesburg, Dr Tladi believes Nubian will stand out in the market because of its specific focus on African skin. “That being said, we

do cater for all skin types and provide non-surgical, minimally invasive aesthetic treatments like skin rejuvenation, hair restoration treatments, treatments for stubborn fat, and vitamin drips for general wellness. We educate clients before we customise their treatments, with good insight about their challenging issues, which makes it easy for them to maintain good results even at home. “Our USP is definitely my specialisation in African skin as it scars and behaves differently to Caucasian skin. Strangely, there are very few doctors who specialise in African skin in South Africa. Clearly we have a lot of work to do in terms of educating and growing this sector.”

Technologies At the Nubian practice in Menlyn, Dr Tladi works with one full time somatologist and offers a variety of the latest aesthetics technologies. These include: a LifeViz Mini (a 3D imaging system for skin analysis); an Injector Gun and Hydra Pen for mesotherapy treatments; a Carbtek machine for carboxytherapy

treatments; an LED mask; and a Dr. Pen for microneedling treatments. “We have focused on microneedling but do plan to incorporate laser treatments in the next few months as there is a growing demand,” notes Dr Tladi. The practice also offers injectables (toxins and dermal fillers) and chemical peels, as well as customised vitamin drips to help restore and rejuvenate the body.

Specialised skincare range After receiving many requests from her loyal clients, Dr Tladi is in the process of developing her own range of cosmeceutical skincare products, specifically for African skin. She continues: “There are very few cosmeceutical products in the market that have been tested on African skin and therefore there are only limited options available. Our range has been pitched and is currently in development, so we are hoping to launch this year.”

Sonette Donker, Jane Wurwand, Cherie Ten Hope and Ilana Gush (circa 1998)

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Talking to…

Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to, ELAINE OKEKE MARTIN, founder of the Spa & Wellness Association of Africa (SWAA), about her pioneering work in the continent’s spa sector and the way forward.

You founded SWAA over a decade ago – how do manage to keep your passion for the industry going after all these years? It comes from a passion for what I do as a spa and wellness professional globally. I love Africa and its people and want them to have the same opportunity to become the best in their industry. As such, I truly believe in Africa´s potential and if Africans come together, build partnerships and take control of their assets, they can achieve more. My drive comes from the energy of our African people themselves. We have such a history here of unique countries and traditions, which we need to translate into wellness. And that is exactly what is happening. The wellness experience was designed as a colonial experience, using only western products or therapy techniques

that don’t speak to middle class Africans today, or even Africa’s visiting tourists. They want a more authentic feel to the service or product. This does not exclude the presence of international products, but rather it´s an opportunity to fine tune the service and translate the USP of each country into their wellness offering.

What initially drew you to the spa industry? As a young girl I always had an innate ability to care for others and wanted people around me to feel well and good. During a sabbatical year in Canada, to find out if law school was for me, I came across the Mary Kay brand, which really brought out my passion for the industry. When I went back home to Denmark, my mother found CIDESCO International in Denmark, which was an excellent way to kick-start my career.

Elaine Okeke Martin

Elaine Okeke Martin

Have you had any mentors during your journey in the spa industry? I always tell young entrepreneurs starting out that their key priority is to find a mentor. Luckily, I had a very inspiring teacher at CIDESCO, Jocelyn Pedersen, and we later got to work together at Six Senses Zighy Bay in Oman. Jocelyn wasn´t a mentor as such but more an inspirational figure to me. Today we are family friends. My actual mentor was Suki Kalirai, who had more experience in business and international marketing, so he acted and guided me as much as he could as I didn´t live in the same country. I met Suki at the Frankfurt Messe in 2004, when I was a student studying International Marketing & Economics at Copenhagen Business School Niels Broch. In early 2005, I did my thesis at Suki´s company in the UK and he

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Business Tips

26 then introduced me to Six Senses Spa Group, who snapped me up the day I graduated and gave me my first international project, in the Dominican Republic. Suki has been a key advisor for the Spa & Wellness Association of Africa. He is a family friend and someone I cherish very much.

What was your rationale for setting up SWAA? Africa needed a platform like SWAA to give our industry professionals a voice and place to enter and find inspiration, experts,

I truly believe in Africa´s potential and if Africans come together, build partnerships and take control of their assets, they can achieve more. product brands, standards, best practices, events and networking opportunities. Continents around us were already up and running and Africa was silent. We couldn’t remain at the rim of international bodies and platforms without having a voice.

What services and support does SWAA offer its members? International connections as well as new symposiums, training events and online networking for therapists, spa managers and product suppliers. SWAA also offers free advertorials for companies’ brands and free new product stories for members.

Which countries are members of SWAA? South Africa, Kenya, Nigeria, Namibia and Mauritius.

Generally speaking, how does the African spa industry compare to the rest of the world? The population in Africa is young online @ probeauty.co.za

Elaine Okeke Martin with the Hon. CS Balala, Kenya’s Minister of Tourism (in white robe) at the 2019 Annual SWAA Conference in Mombasa. SA’s Isabel Roos is third from right

and triggers new opportunities and positive entrepreneurial trends. However, Africa doesn’t have access to finance. They fight daily with the lack of electricity and water. So the cost of infrastructure to own a spa is higher in Africa

South African spa treatments are as developed as European spa treatments. Africa is fragmented in spa and wellness. Each country has its problems. So, should we standardise spas at the same level in Africa as those in Asia, Europe

than in Europe, America or Asia. Hygiene is another huge area to focus on and the COVID-19 pandemic actually highlighted this even more. While many South Africantrained therapists occupy top positions in the international arena, we need to see more therapists from Nigeria and Kenya make their mark internationally. With the expanding middle class comes more awareness of health and wellness in the workplace.

and America? Fred Swaniker, co-founder of the African Leadership Group, said in the Financial Times: “The safari experience designed as a colonial experience – in the style of the hunters who came to Africa 100 years ago – doesn’t speak to middle-class Africans today”. And I agree as luxury safari lodges offering game drives with wellness and culture packaged together with Indian-style treatment menus offering meditation and yogafocused retreats don’t ring true to the concept of African Wellness at all. Where are the ´Authentic African wellness offerings? Where are the healers? Where are the African Therapies? Where are African-made products? Where are the African spiritual healers? It´s not a true African safari wellness experience if there are no African offerings integrated into the package.

An opportunity which is missed out on by spas in Africa is the ´African Therapy´. International and local tourism is screaming for something different, without affecting the high standards required to operate a spa. ´Extreme wellness across Africa´ was one of eight wellness trend areas identified at the Global Wellness Summit in June 2018. Africa is diversified and what a spa in Kenya offers isn’t the same as what a spa in Nigeria will offer.

Elaine Okeke Martin with Anthony J. DiGiuseppe

An opportunity which is missed out on by spas in Africa is the ´African Therapy´. International and local tourism is screaming for something different, without affecting the high standards required to operate a spa.

Is SWAA affiliated to any other international organisations? We are very proud of the collaborations we developed in 2020 with ISPA (International Spa Association), APSWC (Asia Pacific Spa Wellness Coalition), the Irish Spa Association and the Sustainable Spa Association. We shared webinars together and were on platforms together to share knowledge and best practice. Our aim is to find new ways to work closer together and support our members more to see where we can connect the bridges.

What projects is SWAA involved in? SWAA is currently running a survey on education training for professional development to find out what the continent needs to upskill Africans in the industry. Intelligent Spas is also working with SWAA to prepare the first ever independent research for all of Africa on spas and wellness numbers.

How have you connected with SWAA members during the pandemic? We offered free membership and free COVID-19 support with hygiene for 2020 Memberships. Furthermore, we hosted free mental health support webinars, as one in four Africans suffer from mental health issues. We also brought advocacy from the Africa Wellness Initiative on the Global Wellness Institute to our members and have offered SWAA therapist members a chance to list on our continental list. SWAA has held many webinars, which can still be viewed on https://swaafrica.org/ (click on Resources and then click on Webinars on Demand). We have gained traction on our social

media platforms with updates and information to support our industry colleagues.

How were your members affected by the pandemic? We saw members suffer by having to close down shop and lose staff. Therapists were not able to find jobs or be in jobs due to the lockdown. South Africa seems to be the most affected due to the long lockdown period, but Kenya was badly hit too, and many companies went through major challenges while some closed for good. A lot of companies were not able to adapt sales to online retailing quick enough, or master an online presence.

We are very proud of the collaborations we developed in 2020 with ISPA (International Spa Association), APSWC (Asia Pacific Spa Wellness Coalition), the Irish Spa Association and the Sustainable Spa Association. Mauritius tourism dropped completely as hotels, resorts and days spas stayed closed during lockdown. Some spas and mobile therapists in Nigeria kept operating despite the government-imposed lockdown. Online retailing was

good for companies who already had an online presence.

What new board members does SWAA have? I am so pleased to have Patrick Saussay as board director and cochair for Francophone Countries to develop and open these countries up to SWAA. The plan is to start with Morocco, Tunisia and Benin, with Ivory Coast and Senegal to follow. Dr Theo Mothoa, who is from South Africa and owns USO Skincare, is our marketing and science research board director and has so many brilliant ideas. Jasneel Dhanjal owns D´Vine skincare in Kenya and is our board director and co-chair for the Eastern Africa Region. We also have board directors like Leslie Okoye (our treasurer), who runs Cookie-Skin in Nigeria. Valerie Obaze, the owner of Ghanaian-based RNR Luxury, will assist the board to fund raise and promote the association in Ghana. Simone Lipari, who formerly headed up Ethiopia’s SWAA Chapter, is our new director of operations. He divides his time between SWAA and being GM at Tilla Club, an Ethiopian brand. We are very happy and proud to have South Africa as one of our newest chapters, ably run by Jacoline Wentzel. SWAA looks forward to long lasting mutual beneficial partnerships and great events coming in the future to further define SWAA´s presence in South Africa.

Elaine Okeke Martin being interviewed at the Lagos State Tourism 2018 event

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Spa Focus


A South African’s tour of beauty in New Zealand Spa consultant, Rozanne Pelser, provides a fascinating glimpse into New Zealand’s spa sector. Greetings from ‘Aotearoa’ (The land of the long white cloud). No overseas trip is complete without some well-deserved ‘spa research’ and during my tour of New Zealand, I found that over the past 10 years, it has become a favourite international spa destination. From the sub-tropical northern most tip of the North Island, down through Auckland (New Zealand’s largest city), past the volcanic thermal pools in the Rotorua and Taupo regions, down to Wellington and across into South Island with its spectacular waterfalls, snow-capped mountains, glaciers and fjords, New Zealand provides a beautiful backdrop for some amazing spas that match the tranquillity and uniqueness of this country.

Three top spas Rotorua – this is one of New Zealand’s oldest thermal spas. The

Polynesian spa began as a natural hot pool for the local Maori people in the central north island town of Rotorua, before becoming a bath house. Now, there are 28 hot mineral spring pools in which to soak in a state of relaxed bliss. The Retreat offers spa therapies using natural local products, including Rotorua thermal mud and Manuka honey. Hanmer – in the heart of the South Islands geothermal country, less than two hours’ drive from Christchurch, is Hanmer Springs,

The industry is projected to record strong growth over the next five years as economic conditions recover from COVID-19. perhaps New Zealand’s most popular alpine and spa destination, with its many unique thermal rock and sulphur pools. Queenstown – after a full day of skiing in Queenstown, there is nothing better than the private Millbrook Resort. This five-star spa is highly regarded as one of the finest in the world and last year

was named New Zealand’s Top Spa Resort for the third consecutive time at the annual World Travel Awards. As international travel has become more difficult due to the coronavirus pandemic and because local New Zealanders are exploring their country more, there seems to be a renewed interest in wellness. The industry is projected to record strong growth over the next five years as economic conditions recover from COVID-19.

NZ vs The World New Zealand has deep resources of amazing natural ingredients (such as Manuka honey) and it will be interesting to watch what happens as the world discovers the country’s developing natural wellness and skincare products. With its natural resources and stunning scenery, New Zealand has all the elements to provide the best spa experiences in the world. It is perfectly placed to enable guests to soak up the tranquillity of this beautiful country. Rozanne Pelser is a spa consultant and founder of RalphChenelle Day Spa established in Bryanston, Johannesburg in 2007. In March 2020, Pelser emigrated to New Zealand

Photo by Taylor Simpson on Unsplash

On trend and on point Marisa Dimitriadis of The Spa Professionals Guild examines what’s trending in the global spa sector he best part of 2021 is that we are moving into a new world. Yes, the re-set button was pressed last year and we are in the middle of moulding and defining a new beauty and wellness industry. I would like you to think back to any time when you received, or started, something new. Perhaps a new car, perhaps when you went to university or college for the first time, or perhaps when you started your business. Can you describe your feelings and mindset at the time? Excited, happy, a little nervous, full of ideas, explorative, eager, open to learning – these are just some of the words to describe how you felt. So, as you read about the 2021 trends below, take yourself back to one of those ‘new’ moments in your life. How you begin the year and your mindset will play a critical role in how 2021 will pan out for you. Something else to remember is that business is constantly evolv-

ing, so in order for your business to survive and grow, you will need to evolve. Build on what is working and evolve or adapt where you see opportunity. Don’t close your mind to new things; now more than ever is the time to have an open mind and experiment with change. A great idea is to align your business with the 2021 trends to ensure you are meeting consumer demands and evolving your business for the new world.

Trend 1: Redefining wellness Wellness is set to take on a different, more dynamic and all-encompassing shape in 2021. The consumer will be focused on all types of self-help and ways to prevent illness rather than cure it. This trend will not just be about mindfulness and treatments that promote wellness and holistic interventions, but will include far more, such as fashion and science. People will look at what fashion styles, fabrics and colours can do for wellness, as well as how science is evolving artificial

intelligence and modern medicine. The digital space will offer solutions for all to be healthy and well. What does this mean for spas?

How you begin the year and your mindset will play a critical role in how 2021 will pan out for you. Well, look at your space, your fabrics and colours. Look at every part of your engagement with your client and ask yourself – am I, as a business, adding to my clients’ wellbeing?

Trend 2: At home solutions As a spa owner your goal is to get the client in for treatments, but this has changed and will continue to do so. Clients will come to the spa but they have already looked for more at home solutions and

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Spa Focus


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Spa Focus


will continue to do so. If you don’t offer this, they will search until they find them. So, instead of fighting this trend, rather look at what you can offer your clients in terms of treatments they can do themselves at home. Some examples to consider are: spiritual cleansing baths and bath teas for different outcomes, such as detoxifying, sleep enhancing, skin smoothing, remineralising and more. Then there are also at home skin peeling solutions; a wider variety of facial treatment masks; special eye treatments to assist in the reduction of swollen or red eyes; and any blue light protection products, as consumers are now spending more time in front of their computers and devices.

Trend 3: Online The online space is set to show the biggest growth in 2021 because consumers are searching online much more now instead of being in store or face-to-face. Therefore, identify what your next online step should be and how to engage the clients you already have. Once you have that right, then you can develop your strategy from there.

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Remember that the online space is not quick and easy to master. It takes a lot of strategy and careful action to engage a client that today is literally bombarded with hundreds of online offerings. Your goal is engagement and revenue – that is what you are looking for with your online presence.

Trend 4: Sustainable travel/ staycations We will definitely see a rise in local travel, which is being renamed ‘responsible travel’, where the aim

Don’t close your mind to new things; now more than ever is the time to have an open mind and experiment with change. is to support our local economy to get back on track, whilst still recharging and regenerating. With overseas travel taking a back seat completely in 2021, how can you collaborate with a local hospitality business to be responsible and help build each other’s

businesses? That is the sustainability focus for this year. Taking the sustainability concept to other areas of your business means looking at all areas of your spa and how you are supporting your local economy, brands and manufacturers.

Trend 5: Nature and the outdoors Prescriptions will change shape in 2021 with nature as the main remedy. This year will see a rise in nature-based anything, from hotels, treatments in the outdoors, guided nature meditation sessions and so many more offerings. Look at your business and, before you say you don’t have an outdoor offering or space, why not think differently and consider how you can bring the outdoors inside? Or, how you can incorporate the outdoors with anything that you currently offer? For example, start with one treatment room and convert it into a forest – yes, a forest! From the colours, fabrics and plants you use, simulate a forest as best you can. Then experiment and do a few treatments in there to see the responses you get from clients. You will be so surprised.

Trend 6: Sleep better Quality of sleep has deteriorated and it’s becoming more of a question of quality over quantity. Analyse your offering to see where you can incorporate services to enhance better sleep, perhaps even include sleep time in a treatment where you purposely get the client to sleep during the type of treatment you are offering. Silk sleepwear, sleep yoga and satin pillowcases are all set to show huge growth in the coming year.

Trend 7: Immune boosting

and neck. Treatments to enhance natural glowing skin and a flawless complexion are a top priority for the workforce going into 2021. Align the descriptions of your treatment to speak to these consumers, for example Perfect Online Glow Facial or Flawless Online Face Facial. Get creative and talk to the audience and give them exactly what they need. A focus on natural make-up is also a huge 2021 trend, with make-up for online meetings lessons being at the top of the list.

Trend 9: Air quality The quality of the air was already a

place to work, and also the hospitality industry that services the business traveler. Called Pura-Case, the product uses ozone to clean clothes and is designed by Carlo Ratti Associati for tech startup Scribit. The product is portable, battery-powered and operated via a custom-made mobile app. It is a wardrobe purifier in a different league. The process begins with users placing clothes inside the case – which accommodates up to four hangers – and closing it with an airtight zipper. The purifier will then release ozone, which penetrates the

Pura Case (Image by Gary De Silvio)

Anything you can do to support the immune system will be the name of the game in 2021. Re-look at your treatment offering now and adjust it to include immune boosting in massage, body wraps, exfoliations and skin treatments and even explore energy healing concepts.

Trend 8: Skin is the focus

Wellness is set to take on a different, more dynamic and allencompassing shape in 2021.

Photo by Gabby K from Pexels

With the increased time spent on Zoom calls and online meetings during the COVID-19 pandemic, the focus is very clearly on the face

focus from 2019 but will see a new shift in 2021, with much more than air purifiers and specific plants that improve air quality. Have a look at something very interesting that will start to make headway this year, especially in the workplace where people have to come to a public

fabric to sanitise clothes. Once the system is finished, the ozone is reduced to oxygen through a natural decay process using sustainable materials, making the case safe to open. Once a garment is hung inside the case, the air purification system will clean fabrics in the space of an hour. In conclusion, get your mindset right, get your A game on and commit to pivoting and changing everything (if necessary) to align with the new world we are moving into.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

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Business SpaTrends Focus


Business Trends


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33 Business Trends Q&A

Treating African skin We asked medical doctor and aesthetician, Dr Zama Tladi, to expound on the characteristics of African skin, a skin type that she specialises in. How does African skin differ from Caucasian skin? African skin has more melanin in a form of Eumelanin, a type of brownish black melanin, as opposed to the reddish yellow Pheomelanin found in Caucasian skin. The African skin is slightly thicker than Caucasian skin due to this type of melanin. Why does African skin show age more slowly than Caucasian skin? African skin does age more slowly, due to the Eumelanin melanin that makes skin thicker and which is anti-ageing in nature. What is the most common skin concern of your clients? Pigmentation. The disadvantage of having Eumelanin is that it causes pigmentation, which results in uneven skin tone. So one must treat the existing inflammation that causes pigmentation after it has healed. When there is existing pigmentation, we remove it by a series of monthly exfoliation treatments, or we do chemical resurfacing treatments until the pigmentation is completely removed. What skincare ingredients do you recommend for African skin? Vitamin C, Retinoids/vitamin A, Niacinamide/vitamin B3, Kojic

acid, Azelaic acid and Mandelic acid are used for their antipigmenting benefits. What skincare ingredients should be avoided? Mechanical exfoliants, or any ingredient that causes inflammation of the skin, as the inflammation later results in pigmentation when it has healed. What are the most common misconceptions about treating African skin? A common misconception is thinking you don’t need to use sunscreen or sun protection, but the reality is that the UV rays from the sun inflame the skin, which further develops in pigmentation. Another misconception is that eye cream is not necessary, but eye cream has micro molecules that can penetrate the very thin skin around the eyes, giving it hydration to delay wrinkles. Some people think you only have to cleanse the face once a day, in the morning. However, during the day the skin is exposed to sweat, oiliness, environmental factors and makeup. Therefore skin also needs to be cleansed at night to clear dirt and prevent pores from being clogged. Please comment on the use of light- and energy-based devices

on the darker Fitzpatrick skin types. Some of these kinds of treatments have high energy that inflames the skin, causing further pigmentation. For example, some resurfacing laser treatments that are great for Caucasian skin, can in fact damage African skin and cause worse pigmenting. At my practice we don’t use laser treatments for African skin, but would rather resurface this type of skin chemically. We also use LED light therapy, which is very effective for darker skin types. Skin lightening is a taboo subject, but do some of your clients still seek a lighter complexion? We don’t promote or stock skin lightening treatments or products for ethical reasons and possible skin damaging issues. I prefer to educate our clients around underlying causes and risks and suggest healthier routes of treatment. At Nubian Medical Aesthetics, we recommend skin brightening treatments for uneven skin tones, which are very effective. Dr Zama Tladi started practising as a medical doctor in 2013, and over the years became passionate about skin health and aesthetic medicine. online @ probeauty.co.za

Fifty shades of

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African Skin



With the overwhelming majority of South Africans belonging to the darker Fitzpatrick skin types, it’s essential that salons and spas are equipped in terms of the products and expertise required to treat black skin Beauté Pacifique Danish medical grade skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique specifically recommends three products for black clients. The Super3 Vitamin A Anti-Wrinkle Booster contains two different forms of Vitamin A, each having its own way of rejuvenating the skin’s collagen and elastin fibre structure. The synthesis of collagen and elastin fibres are boosted to reinforce the skin’s elastic properties. It repairs the damage caused by the sun and clearly reduces wrinkles and stretch marks. The cream also dimimishes the skin’s sebum secretion and contains Propolis for the treatment and prevention of impure skin, including active pimples as in teenage skin. It should be applied very sparingly onto cleansed skin every second night, with the frequency of usage

increased as individually needed. Beauté Pacifique’s Enriched Moisturising Crème for Dry Skin ensures intensive and long lasting moisture care with squalane, dedicated specifically to dry and sensitive skin types. Not only does it provide the skin with plenty of moisture, but it offers additional protection against the harmful ultraviolet radiation. Lastly, the Submersive Serum Paradoxe is based on high concentrations of both squalane and the Chilean extract GSPE (which has ‘near’ medical properties), as in Beauté Pacifique’s Crème Paradoxe, but re-formulated into a super potent serum that submerges deeply into

the skin, providing a strong antiageing effect. The skin’s surface immediately appears smoothed and perfectly prepared for make-up. This product improves visually large pores and uneven pigmentation. It contains two types of vitamin E.

AQ Skin Solutions From AQ Skin Solutions, the AQ Recovery Serum pharmaceutical grade serum contains the highest concentration of natural growth factors, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans. This serum is designed to enhance the skin’s biological process of regeneration by promoting collagen production, supporting healthy circulation and encouraging cellular renewal. The serum is selectively formulated to complement the recovery period of clinical modalities. This highly concentrated formula

Environ Research conducted by Environ shows that African consumers often have pigmentation concerns. The Focus Care Radiance+ Range targets the root causes of skin discoloration, dark spots and uneven skin tone. The revolutionary 3-step Mela-Smart System™ is comprised of four innovative products that work together to help inhibit the formation of hyperpigmentation.

Dermalogica The experts at Dermalogica point out that the common assumption that darker skin does not need sun protection is not true. Damaging UV rays can penetrate all types of skin, regardless of your ethnicity, so dark skins do need sunscreen. Another common misconception is that all sunscreens leave your skin looking grey, but

Dermalogica’s recently launched Invisible physical defense SPF30 was specifically developed with darker skin tones in mind. This product features a new physical sunscreen technology that blends to invisible on all skin tones. For black clients, Dermalogica recommends regular exfoliation with the Rapid Reveal Peel, an at home chemical peel containing lactic acid and phytic acid that helps even out skin tone. Also recommended is a potent skin brightening serum containing oligopeptides that balances uneven skin tone, such as C-12 pure bright serum. If the uneven skin tone is caused by breakouts, a product containing salicylic acid, patented antibacterial TT technology and niacinamide, such as Dermalogica’s Age Bright Clearing serum or Age Bright spot fader, will assist in managing and preventing breakouts, as well as the dark marks left behind.

DermaFix According to DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care, many, darker Fitzpatrick Skin Types are more susceptible to skin darkening, especially when inflammation is present in the skin. DermaFix offers an extensive skin brightening range, including

Photo by cotlonbro from Pexels

is specifically designed to help improve the appearance of ageing, damaged and post-procedure skin with minimal downtime. AQ Recovery Serum may enhance the natural restorative processes of the skin, which can repair and regenerate skin tissue by stimulating collagen production, circulation, antioxidant activity and cellular renewal. It needs to be administered by a skincare professional. Ingredients include: human fibroblast conditioned media; water (aqua); SD alcohol 40; propylene glycol; cellulose gum; polysorbate 20; tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate; tocopheryl acetate; menthyl lactate; lactic acid; sodium hyaluronate; phenoxyethanol; 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol.

Environ’s Multi-Bioactive Mela-Prep Lotion contains an expertly formulated combination of highly specialised ingredients for a brighter, more even-toned complexion, while the VitaBotanical Mela-Fade Serum System comprises of two serums with a potent blend of vitamins and botanicals that assist in targeting the root causes of skin discoloration. The Intense C-Boost Mela-Even Cream is a technologically advanced vitamin C infused cream that reveals a brighter, more evenly radiant and healthier-looking skin. The other key concern for the African market is breakout prone skin. Here, the Focus Care Clarity+ Range is prescribed. This range is an innovative 3-phase system (Cleanse; Control; and Clear) offering a complete skincare solution that is tough on breakouts but easy on skin. Products include: Sebu-Wash Gel Cleanser; Sebutone Clarifier; Seub-Lac Lotion; Sebu-ACE Oil; Sebu-Spot Blemish Gel; and Sebu-Clear Masque

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African Skin


Photo by Adrienne Andersen Pexels

Business Trends Skin Conditions


actives such as tranexamic acid, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, paper mulberry, SepiWhite MSH and vitamin C amongst others, working to stabilise the production of pigment in the skin by acting on the melanogenesis pathway relating to pigment formation. This range includes DermaFix Brightening Cleanser and Brightening Toner along with the following hero products: DermaFix MelanoDerm – a corrective moisturiser acting as a pigment antagonist, helping to online @ probeauty.co.za

target melanin production whilst providing skin restorative benefits; DermaFix UltraBright; and DermaFix Brightening Wipes – a high potency additive for skin brightening and retexturising benefits. DermaFix believes that no hyperpigmentation range would be complete without the inclusion of sunscreen, applied daily on all sun exposed areas of skin. DermaFix DermaShield SPF40/ SPF50 offers broad-spectrum UVA/UVB HEV protection of the skin against damage that leads to hyperpigmentation.

pHformula In the pHfomula range, all the products and treatments are safe to use on Fitzpatrick Phototype VI, due to the delivery system (PH-DVC™) in the professional line as well as the active homecare

products. PH-DVC™ ensures that the actives are delivered at the correct depth in the skin without causing trauma or irritation to the stratum corneum. Great care is given not to cause inflammatory responses. It is of importance to treat and approach these Phototypes with a slow and gradual treatment prescription. The pHformula skin specialist tests the skin with a specialised product – SP complex – which will indicate the sensitivity / inflammatory response at the given time. The SP test is performed before continuing with resurfacing in every treatment, as the skin sensitivity may change due to environmental (UV radiation, pollution) and intrinsic influences (diet, lifestyle). Once the skin sensitivity levels are known, the skin specialist will be able to determine the correct resurfacing product and strength that the skin can tolerate in that treatment. The homecare prescription will work synergistically with the professional resurfacing treatments and is customised to each client’s concerns and needs.

RégimA To treat hyperpigmentation, RégimA Pigment Perfector utilises the most cutting edge technologies. These help eliminate and prevent hyperpigmentation and even out the complexion, making it radiant. Clients will see the gradual elimination of melasma/ chloasma (pregnancy mask) and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Pigment Perfector also helps remove sun spots and age spots. The main actives found in Pigment Perfector include: stabilised vitamin C; Lumiskin (the latest in proprietary skinlightening technology); Chinese sophora root extract; kiwi fruit

SIX Besides the entire SIX range being beneficial for African Skins when it comes to maintaining skin health, there are three specific products that are especially well accepted by African skin. The newly launched SIX Aesthetix Azelaic Peel is made from azelaic acid, a naturally occurring acid found in grains such as barley, wheat and rye. Azelaic acid is in a class of medications called dicarboxylic acid. It prevents what’s known as melanin synthesis, the ability of your skin to produce pigments that can vary your skin’s tone.

This product also works to treat acne by killing the bacteria that infect pores and by decreasing production of keratin, a natural substance that can lead to the development of acne. Also from SIX, the Self Heating Face Mask is formulated with an active ingredient derived from volcanic ash that heats up the moment it comes into contact with moisture. The heat draws out impurities and opens up pores, which activates cellular functions while instantly smoothing wrinkles and plumping the skin. This fun to use mask also targets uneven skin tone, poor circulation and has a detoxifying effect. SIX recommends that African clients use a strong SPF to protect their skin from the sun. The Broad Spectrum SPF50+ product is especially kind to African skins in that there is no grey or ‘ghost’ like residue left on the skin, while providing the highest rated UVA and UVB protection. It is also non oily with a matt finish and thus ideal for African skin. The product is formulated with an innovative anti sand technology and contains

beeswax (anti-inflammatory) and tocopherol as a powerful antiageing active. It can also be used as an excellent make-up primer.

Saloncare According to Saloncare, which has a deep understanding and 25 years of experience regarding the requirements of darker skin types, African skins secrete more sebum than Caucasian skin, have larger open pores and are prone to congestion and blemishes. Saloncare maintains the following products will control sebum secretion and smooth and polish the skin, leaving it clearer, brighter, less congested and smoother:

Facial Wash (mild, foaming control cleanser for normal, combination, young and acne prone skin); Enzyme Exfoliant (a smooth exfoliant based on pineapple and papaya enzymes); Charcoal Masque (for deep cleansing) and Diminish, a mild moisturiser for the reduction of pigmentation, acne scarring and uneven skin tone.

Photo by Retha Ferguson Pexels

extract for significant tyrosinase inhibition; and black tea extract to enhance radiance, brightening and anti-glycation. In-salon RégimA Power Peels are extremely popular with African clients, for treating hyperpigmentation and scarring. RégimA believes that black skins require six times more UV rays than white skins for the vitamin D, essential for skin, bones and inner health. Therefore, black clients must have a certain amount of sun exposure. It is therefore suggested that an SPF 15 to Max 30 should be their choice. This will also help prevent congestion of the skin, often found with very high SPF. The more modern approach to sun protection within formulations is high tech SPF UVA and UVB, including uvinul A Plus, uvinul B, unvinul T150, tinosorb, with the essential addition of ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide (Vit B3), natural UV protectors, plus black tea ferment. RégimA AntiAgeing Day Treatments provide total UVA and UVB protection with all the ‘bells and whistles’.

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African Skin Business Trends


Business Trends


Looking for new products or brands? Use the Professional Beauty Directory to make the task easy and stress free

You can search by product, such as skin care and see all listings for that category. Search by brand or company name. Search for suppliers in your area Features a comprehensive listing which includes: • Full address details • Location, including access to Google maps • Full product details • Sales brochures • Product videos


Click Here to access this fantastic resource

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39 Hair News

Crowning Glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front Cold therapy Hydrotherapy combines the benefits of both cold and heat. Hair salons regularly perform a form of hot therapy at the wash basin with warm water and now Biosense Cryotherapy provides Contrast Hydrotherapy by reducing the temperature of the application to 10 degrees Celsius. Biosense Cryotherapy improves blood circulation to the scalp, seals hair cuticles, speeds up nutrient transfer to hair and increases its absorption potential.

011 305 1600

Colourfully vegan Inoar has launched its Intense Colour Range, which is argan-infused, vegan, cruelty free and provides 100% grey coverage. This range was developed with exclusive technology and argan oil microcapsules that burst into well-defined and long-lasting colour on application. Hair is left more beautiful, soft and shiny.

012 346 1721

Fabulous follicles Anara Hair Loss Serum is formulated with specialised ingredients to prevent hair from falling out, such as soy extract, shown to reduce inflammation of hair follicles, and Camelia Japonica oil to unclog the scalp pores. Pea peptides help to stimulate and strengthen follicle stem cells, while Fuji apple extract stimulates hair growth and prevents hair loss.

021 701 0744

Embracing product The Jean Paul Mynè research laboratories have created HUG, a range of new-generation styling products that guarantee unbeatable hold and movement, wrapping hair in a warm embrace and giving it the well-being, protection and safety it needs every day. Ingredients include pomegranate, goji, beeswax and oils such as vetiver, olive, almond and argan.

021 981 0032

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AP those ITS

Image by Kjerstin Michaela Haraldsen from Pixabay



Alongside a thorough, professional skincare regime, light- and energy-based devices can be also be used to treat active acne

Alma ClearSkin

achieving a gentle rejuvenating

Distributed by Best Lasers, the Alma ClearSkin is positioned as the first technology to combine a non-ablative laser with simultaneous contact cooling and vacuum technology to treat acne vulgaris safely and effectively. The non-ablative ER: Glass 1540 nm laser deeply penetrates the skin, causing thermal damage to

effect, diminishing the appearance of acne scars by stimulating collagen renewal. The treatment is suitable for all skin types, has no side-effects and achieves a smoother complexion with lasting results.

the sebaceous glands, destroying P. acnes bacteria, and reducing sebum production, while leaving the epidermis intact. ClearSkin’s integrated vacuum mechanism extracts accumulated sebaceous material from the pores, while contact cooling protects the skin, reducing pain and allowing for safer and more effective treatment of the sebaceous glands within the dermis. It’s the Cooled ER:Glass laser with Vacuum treatment that addresses all forms of acne vulgaris, including papules, pustules, and nodules, while also

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Nordlys IPL applicator PR530 Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, the Nordlys IPL applicator PR 530, improves the appearance of acne red macules, irregular pigmentation and skin tones. Intense pulsed light therapy (IPL) is based on emitting highintensity pulses of filtered light to penetrate the skin and treat various conditions with minimal discomfort and almost no downtime. Using light filters, the energy of the IPL can be focused

on specific targeted substances in our body that are capable of absorbing light on specific wavelengths, such as the melanin found in skin and hair follicles. Protoporphyrins are also capable of selective light absorption and are found naturally in the body in low quantities, with higher levels are produced by the acne bacterium (P.Acnes). Skin bacteria can occur when your sebaceous glands overproduce sebum, often leading to pimples. The Nordlys system treats acne by reducing the blood supply to the sebaceous gland to slow down the production of sebum. It delivers short pulse, safe bursts of light directed at the skin. Using patented Dual Mode Filtering technology, the system filters the light to ensure that only the wavelengths necessary for the treatment are used. Because this is such a focused treatment, only the blood vessels that supply the sebaceous gland are impacted, while the surrounding vessels are not affected. IPL treatments can rapidly dry up acne by killing the bacteria deep in the skin and treating the inflammation. Nordlys has the added benefit of reducing redness and unwanted pigmentation around active acne. This is a safe and effective treatment for acne, with little to no

patient discomfort for patients of all ages.

Viora Distributed by Medilase, Viora has developed a Maskne Express treatment to combat the effects of acne breakouts caused by wearing facial masks. The treatment includes two fast and simple steps: a diamond-peel microdermabrasion with Viora’s Pristine™ system, followed with the Smooth™ solution penetration via electroporation by Infusion™.

the structural rearrangement of the lipid bi-layer to form openings in the cell membrane. Pristine™ from Viora features genuine, laser-cut diamond tips that gently abrade the upper epidermal layer of the skin to polish the skin surface, while a vacuum control stimulates the production of collagen and elastin. The combination of vacuum and pressure ensure diamond-peel uniformity and allow for personalised exfoliation treatments, according to skin type.

Luxea Distributed by Hitech Systems, the Luxea from DEKA Italy

Image by Sharon McCutcheon from Pixabay

Viora’s Electro-Mesotherapy device, Infusion™ delivers a noninvasive, needle-free solution for superior transdermal delivery of topical ingredients. Featuring maximum cellular penetration, Infusion treatments can also be performed together with other aesthetic procedures. Ionwave™ Technology is based on the Electroporation principle where, when the electro current comes into contact with the cell, it begins

is a multifunctional, modular, upgradable and expandable system with four pulsed light hand pieces, five laser hand pieces and one radiofrequency hand piece. The four hand pieces that treat acne and acne scarring are: Lilac (IPL) and Lazur (400-1200nm); Insight 1340nm and Vivid 810 nm Diode Laser.

Acne treatment with the Lazur IPL hand piece enables the physician to greatly improve skin appearance and reduce acne, while at the same time treat the redness and pigmentation of the skin. This handpiece has integrated Sapphire Cooling and utilises an Xe Lamp with a 400-1200 nm spectrum of emission, the specific wavelength of light which target the bacteria in the skin, as well as inflamed sebaceous glands that contribute to breakouts. The hand piece has three pulse modes: short, medium and long pulse, which enables the physician to customise the treatment according to the skin type and desired results. The spot size is 48 mm x 13 mm. During a Lazur IPL treatment many, high intensity pulses of light penetrate several layers of skin in a controlled manner. A biochemical response is triggered that will eventually kill the acne bacteria within the pores and reduce the inflammation or sebum excess (skin oil) production that characterises acne. IPL is a non-invasive solution on inflammatory acne with less collateral effects than oral medication. The controlled pulsing, together with the integrated Sapphire Cooling system with the temperature selectable between 5°C and 25°C, prevents thermal damage to the skin and minimises discomfort, redness and swelling. To ensure the utmost comfort, the physician should apply cold coupling gel on the treatment area. Depending on your specific concern and to achieve optimal results, it may take four to six sessions that will last 15-20 minutes each, with a recess of four weeks between treatments. Immediately following the treatment, the patient may experience some redness, depending on the treatment settings. This will disappear within a few hours. The physician will advise the patient to stay out of direct sunlight for a few days.

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Resolute aesthetic treatments 2021 Karen Ellithorne looks at the top aesthetic treatments likely to trend this year from overall skin rejuvenation and skin brightening, to the targeted treatments of fine lines, hyperpigmented lesions, melasma, acne scars and tattoo removal. The treatment itself is also very well tolerated by the patient. Image by Moose Photos from Pexels

Aesthetic Medicine



ith the compulsory wearing of masks due to the COVID-19 epidemic, focus has been moved to the rejuvenation of the periocular area and forehead, with the main concern being on the eyes and forehead. This has led to an increase in the use of preventative and corrective injectable treatments in these areas. The increase has not only been limited to women in their forties and fifties, but across the younger age groups too, who have become aware of the anti-ageing benefits of preventative injections of neuromodulators (i.e. toxins). Patients are starting as young as their early twenties and thirties with these types of injectable treatments, as these can resolve

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Side-effects of protective masks

minor aesthetic issues, which will ultimately prevent a patient needing otherwise more intensive plastic surgery later in life. The above dynamic follows closely on the back of the trend of patients opting for subtle enhancement, as opposed to major alteration.

Lasers It’s well known that laser treatments can tackle a whole host of skin conditions, like pigmentation, inflamed skin and cuperose, whilst simultaneously boosting brightness and collagen for a more natural, youthful looking skin. Laser technology has now evolved with a new treatment modality called Picosecond laser, which is said to eliminate excess recovery time. These new Picosecond lasers can be used to treat everything

The great benefit of wearing masks for COVID-19 protection is that it is possible to eliminate some UV damage in the protected areas, however other complications have arisen. It is noted that there has been an increase in sensitivity due to friction on the facial area and, in some cases, acne conditions worsening as a result of the skin being continually occluded and people not always wearing a clean mask. This has led to an increase of retail sales for products that address these skin conditions and also to an increase in deep cleansing treatments, like hydro facials and skin peeling treatments, which can deep cleanse the skin while hydrating and brightening the epidermis.

Lockdown Many companies continue to work remotely due to the pandemic, even after lockdown was lifted. This has created the opportunity for patients to undergo the more dramatic treatments that they have always wanted to do that involve downtime. Several Johannesburg aesthetic

clinics that I have been in touch with over the last few months have claimed to be busier than ever, with patients wanting deeper chemical peels, laser resurfacing and minimally invasive procedures. The beauty of this is they can always hide their face behind a buff or mask when they are out in public and they can work from home.


Combination A combination of radiofrequency and micro-needling in a single unit is also seen to be currently trending. This is due to the amplified results of the microneedling. The treatment is blood free due to the coagulation effect of the needles, which means the patient recovers faster post treatment. Furthermore, the inclusion of a red or blue LED light that is currently also being included as part of the treatment further speeds up anti-acne and skin brightening results. For the

Image by Engin Akyurt from Pixabay

Trends that continue to grow and advance in 2021 are therapies like Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP), especially to prevent hair loss. PRP has become one of the standard protocols for hair growth and many great results have been seen with both men and women. The mechanism and injection

epidermis. The treatment provides improvements to the skin that have really only been seen in the past with laser technology.

protocols involved in this treatment, which involves drawing blood from the patient, spinning it to separate the platelets and then injecting it back into the treatment area, are continually advancing, being researched and published in cosmetic journals around the world. Even though PRP is well known and has been used in facial rejuvenation for a number of years, doctors are now combining the use of PRP with small amounts of additives like hyaluronic acid and neuromodulators (i.e. toxins). This cocktail is applied to the skin using a mesotherapy technique on the superficial structures of the

ultimate Rolls Royce treatment, an addition of PRP may also be combined. This is found to minimise downtime for the patient, whilst maximising results.

Skin tightening Minimally invasive skin tightening treatments that stimulate the deeper collagen in the skin, and therefore assist with skin tightening, like Ultherapy, are also making a comeback but this time more amongst the younger generations that are wanting to work on age prevention. The results from this type of therapy generally last up to two years. This treatment produces

new collagen, but even with natural collagen regeneration, the skin continues to age. Therefore using good skincare products that encourage skin tightening and collagen production, namely retinol, will assist in these results lasting longer.

Muscle sculpting With many people having gained an additional kilogram or two over the lockdown period, it is predicted that several patients will consider the new offering in body shaping and fat reduction. The muscle sculpting trend that had already began internationally late 2019 is now currently being used to complement fat reduction in the body. Well-known treatments like CoolSculpting, used to get rid of excess fat cells via freezing the cells, have led to the launch of many other popular body sculpting machines like EmSculpt, FlexSculpt and Cool Tone. This will result in the clinic focus no longer being solely on removing fat, but on the building and sculpting of muscle mass at the same time. Some of these new technologies can treat and exercise key core muscle groups in a way that cannot be achieved by training in a gym. This technology can also add refinement for patients with lower mass indexes, who are not necessarily good candidates for fat removal. The best part of this treatment is that it takes minimal time to perform and there is no downtime afterwards. Thus, it is a great lunchtime treatment and a beneficial component of many patients’ 2021 resolutions regarding their bodies.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

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Aesthetic Medicine




Potent potions for the skin Frequently used as part of in-salon treatments, as well as in home care skincare regimes, serums are specially designed to deliver high concentrations of specific active ingredients deep into the skin. Here we focus on serums that boost and invigorate the complexion


rom Danish medical grade skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, the SuperFruit Moisture Enforcement Serum is a unique, water-based serum. Containing extracts of and juice from the Nordic superfruits – sea buckthorn, cloudberry, lingonberry, sugar beet and birch – the serum prevents impurities and redness in young skin, while making the skin more even. Betula alba juice from Nordic birch trees was already known in the Viking Age as a health product. Modern science has shown positive and active ingredients in the juice from birch trees, which can bind extra moisture to the skin and seems to have a firming effect. SuperFruit Serum includes a

new ingredient – vaccinium vitisidaea fruit extract (lingostem), which comes from the stem cells of the superfruit, lingonberry. It has strong antioxidant properties, combats UV sunlight damage and protects against blue light. This ingredient enhances the skin’s collagen network with the same effect as vitamin A esters. Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract/ buckthorn is a Nordic berry with countless active ingredients. It can even out the skin’s pigmentation and make the skin more resistant and robust, while cloudberry seed extract is a Nordic berry that scientific studies have shown is able to delay loss of skin elasticity caused by age degeneration. This extract impedes the enzyme elastase, which decomposes the skin’s elastic fibres over time. Lastly, papain (from papaya fruit) is part of Beauté Pacifique’s new advanced exfoliation system.

Trio of peptides Environ’s Tri-Peptide Complex+ Avance Elixir, from the Focus Care Youth+ Range, contains meiritage – a unique blend of extracts from Chinese roots used in traditional medicine, which have been shown to be effective in reducing the effects of oxidative stress (UV radiation and pollution) and

brightening the appearance of uneven skin tone. This product also contains a combination of three powerful peptide complexes that may assist in improving the overall structure of the skin. The powerful combination of ingredients in this multifunctional serum may leave the skin looking radiantly luminous and resiliently younger for longer.

Historical oils One of the serums in the CSpa range that is referred to as an ‘elixir’, Age-Reversal Serum provides a rejuvenating and regenerating effect. Frankincense and myrrh, both essential oils made famous for their noble history, are also highly effective in stimulating the

regeneration of skin cells. These are paired with relaxing rose essential oil, as well as collagen stimulating jojoba oil.

From the sea The Thalgo la Beauté Marine Hydrating and Radiance ranges have the best marine ingredients at the heart of their formulas – to draw dermal water and capture it in the skin and prevent water loss. Hydra Marine Serum is formulated with a special active ingredient called lumisource, which also stimulates cell detoxification, giving the skin a luminous finish. This serum should be used as a 30day boost.

products. The Firming Booster is for the client to apply under a moisturiser in their home care regime to speed up results, especially on the face and neck.

This opalescent, unscented fluid gel is quickly absorbed and leaves the skin soft and smooth. The key active ingredients are lactic acid (10%) and bromelain.


An active ingredient booster that gets to work overnight while the skin and body rest, the SIX Sensitive Night Repair Booster has a powerful antiinflammatory formula that leaves skin softer and smoother. The skin is regenerated whilst the ingredients get straight to work to calm sensitive, red, sunburnt or irritated skin. The Sensitive Night Repair Booster contains vitamin C, pea peptide, rice protein and wheatgerm extract.

Phyto-Nature Firming Serum is the first Dermalogica serum to use Sapphire-bound biomimetic peptides, such as glutathione and palmitoyl tripeptide-28. These peptides, along with trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, can be found in the

‘New science’ DermaFix ACC Retinol + incorporates ‘new science’ with the addition of its key ingredient, Cylasphere® Retinol, an agar micro-sphere encapsulating retinol. The encapsulation of retinol allows for a slow release into the skin for improved bioavailability, efficacy and a gentler use. This product stimulates the fibroblasts, helping to thicken the dermis for a firmer and younger looking skin. DermaFix ACC Retinol + incorporates advanced vitamin C and resurfaces the skin, whilst offering superior skin revitalisation.

Firm and tone From Saloncare, the Firming & Toning Serum intense ampoule based serum is targeted at slowing the ageing process. It is ideal for manual and machine treatments, as well as micro-needling. It can be applied under massage, masque or galvanic

serum’s water phase to help firm skin and reinforce skin defenses against the exposome. Both the firming and lifting phases of Phyto-Nature Firming Serum contain potent, plantderived bio-extracts: Amazonian camu camu, Moroccan rockrose extract and Madagascar green coffee bean, to help prolong radiance, visibly revitalise skin and decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Phyto-Nature Technology, which helps visibly tighten skin, uses key molecules from Huáng Qí and Paracress to help reduce the appearance of premature skin ageing.

Lactic power For mature, dull, and dehydrated skin, the Sothys LC Lactic Dermobooster has been formulated to refine the skin texture using microexfoliation actives to smooth fine lines and even out the skin’s appearance.

By night

Smooth talking RégimA’s The Zone Super Smoother Anti-Ageing Gel Serum smooths the skin’s surface, imparting essential moisture. This formulation boasts dual hyaluronic action, utilising two analogues of hyaluronic acid for advanced penetration into the skin, providing unparalleled moisturising capabilities. It provides immediate and long term ultimate dermal and epidermal moisturisation and plumping. This product is a must for most skins, and is particularly beneficial for adult acne sufferers as it provides essential moisture and tissue plumping and tightness, but without any oiliness. Super Smoother also enhances the action of injectable dermal fillers used to plump out wrinkles.



Products News


In the market

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Body beautiful Environ’s new Body EssentiA® Contouring Cream is a revolutionary innovation to help visibly smooth, firm, tighten and reshape the appearance of skin, with powerful 3-dimensional contouring effects. It’s recommended that this light-weight, quickabsorbing cream is gently massaged into the skin mornings and evenings, followed by Environ’s Body EssentiA® Derma-Lac® Lotion and A, C and E Oil.

Sunny range The Sunskin UV-Derm SPF 50 sunscreen range, with full spectrum protection, consists of a wide variety of products for different needs – anti-ageing, acne, sensitive and oily skin. This range comes in different consistencies, such as cream, lotion, gel or spray, for different activities, skin types and skin colours.

011 262 0264

Bubbly cleanser

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care has launched the new Calming MicroFoam Cleanser, a creamy hypoallergenic cleanser that transforms into delicate micro-bubbles, lifting impurities from deep within pores to gently purify the skin, removing excess oil and make-up. This product is formulated with Scots pinecone extract and hemp seed oil.

083 722 5830

086 128 2323

Manly ampoule

Bring on the brows

011 467 0110

082 575 6567

Babor Men has upgraded with the first ampoule made specifically for men’s skin. While Babor’s famed ampoules are unisex, the Instant Energy ampoule is thicker and slightly oiler with better cross-linking of the collagen fibres, thus perfect for male clients. It contains Taurec complex, caffeine, vitamin C, provitamin B5 and triplestrength hyaluronic acid.

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The new Brow Lamination Kit by RefectoCil contains all the products and tools needed to perform this new trending treatment. Each kit includes: two Lash & Brow Perms (3,5ml); two Neutralizers (3,5ml); two Cosmetic Brushes; two Application Dishes; and one free pack of Eye Care Pads

Business Trends


Issue 38

Feb 2021

ARTISTIC RENDITION Latest nail design trends

PERSONAL TOUCH Looking after your staff’s wellbeing

Photo by Ololade Masud from Pexels


Pterygium unpacked online @ probeauty.co.za

In the 30 years that BIO SCULPTURE has been established we have determined the most popular colours, outstanding of their kind. We are bringing these colours to the EVO range, introducing the EVO Classic’s range.


f you look up the history of nail art on the internet, Wikipedia tells you that the first actual record of nail art was from the Inca Empire (1438-1533) in South America, when Incas decorated their nails by Issue 39 painting eagles on them. Wikipedia also notes that in 2012, the USA Feb 2021 witnessed a surging popularity of nail art, leading to a release in the same year of a short nail art documentary with the amusing title, ‘NAILgasm’. Nail art may have started out as something of a sub-culture in the professional nail sector but is today a huge and consistent trend, with most salon clients requesting nail art services. In this issue we include a fascinating article on the latest nail design trends. Also to be found in this issue is advice from an expert on how to deal with your staff’s wellbeing – something this is particularly important in these traumatic, pandemic-riddled times. And, internationally renowned product scientist and author, Doug Latest na il design trends Schoon, unravels the mysteries of the pterygium. PERSONA L TOUCH

Looking after your sta ff’s wellbein g

Joanna Sterkowicz

Photo by



Masud from





online @ onlin probeaut e @ prob eauty.co. y.co.za za

Ololade M


asud from


Business Tre



Photo by



What’s inside



Industry News

Stay in the know

54 Ask the Experts


Spotlight on the pterygium Doug Schoon shares his expertise


Looking after your staff ’s wellbeing

Product hub



Emerging Nail Trends for 2021

Top Tech Talk

What’s hot in nail design online @ probeauty.co.za


Latest releases

Riana Botha


5151 News

NEWS Tropical Paradise nail competition results announced Annelize van Tonder is the winner of the NailFile Tropical Paradise Photographic Nail Design Competition, with Joani Gouws second, and Melissa De Wet third. The competition, which was sponsored by Nail Couture, called on nail techs to transport themselves into the wonderful world of the tropics by creating nail sets that would completely capture that theme.

1st Place Annelize van Tonder’s set was delightfully evocative with many 3D elements, such as a turtle, a palm tree and coconuts, sea sand and bubble foam, a starfish and a hibiscus flower. There were also many 2D elements, including a hand-painted parrot and a toucan. Van Tonder was praised by the judges for her intricate work and her clever use of many different techniques.

2nd Place The judges were impressed with the amount of layering Joani Gouws incorporated in her work to create a very striking and unique set that detailed the stages of a journey to BoraBora. These included a house on the water; a coral reef; tropical fish, surfboards, a palm tree; cocktails on the beach, a toucan; a coconut crab; Easter Island; and sunset on the beach.

3rd Place Melissa De Wet’s entry was described as ‘fun and colourful’ by the judges, who commented favourably on the focal point of the set, a large 3D palm tree with coconuts. There were many pretty hand-painted elements (some with 3D featuress), such as a pina colada cocktail, a paw-paw, tropical flowers, a parrot, a toucan, a pineapple, a sea shore and shells.

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Nail File Photographic Design Competition

The 1960s was a defining era in fashion, giving rise to the mini-skirt, the shapeless shift dress, geometric prints, the jumpsuit, plastic white flat-heeled go-go boots, drainpipe jeans, fake eyelashes that looked like feather dusters, bouffant coiffures (usually with a thick fringe), large floppy hats and coloured tights. As a movement, ‘The Swinging Sixties’ was a hip and modern, youth-driven cultural revolution, with London as its hedonistic centre. Sixties icons include Twiggy, Diana Ross & The Supremes, Mary Quant, Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy, Sean Connery as James Bond, The Beatles and The Rolling Stones. And who could forget Mike Meyers’ ode to the Sixties in ‘Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery’? Rules & Regulations For any tips or advice please contact or What’sApp Sonette on 076 585 4191. • Designs must be created according to the theme – Swinging Sixties. • Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate the design work. • Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to create their designs in any style or combination of techniques, using flat, embossed, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work. • Designs can be created on tips and presented as a Tip Box display or attached to some form of background to display the work. • Photographs must be of a high quality and clarity to be able to see and judge the work that has been created. • Nails must be properly and neatly shaped, with the same shape and length consistent throughout. Any length and shape may be achieved to suit the design work and theme. • A combination of products and nail systems may be used, as long as it pertains to and complements the theme and look being achieved. • All 10 nails must have a design and creation on them, each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another, be consistent in design and flow throughout all 10 nails. • Judges will be looking at and judging on the following criteria: Theme following throughout the design on all 10 nails; Originality and own interpretation of theme; Consistency and continuity of design throughout; Neatness & Presentation; Design and technical quality and use of nail products.

Presentation & Step by Step

• Please provide a step by step of your work, which must include: An explanation of your interpretation and inspiration of the given theme behind your designs, Photos of your steps for each nail and how you achieved the design. Presentation should be themed according to the given set theme and can be presented as a word document, PDF or Power Point. • Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work and not copied. • Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician whose work it is. • Please make sure you submit good quality photos to be able to judge your work properly. • Please make sure you email your full details, salon name and contact details along with your photograph. • Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the next issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine. • Please note that a panel of four judges will conduct the adjudication. The judges’ decision is final. online @ probeauty.co.za

NEWS Pantone announces Colour of the Year As its Colour of the Year for 2020, global colour authority, Pantone, has announced a duo of shades, namely Ultimate Gray and Illuminating. Each year Pantone assigns a shade as the official colour for that particular year. This tradition has endured for over two decades and continues to influence product development in multiple industries, including fashion, nails and design. To arrive at the selection each year, experts at The Pantone Colour Institute comb the world looking for new colour influences. This can include the entertainment industry and films in production, traveling art collections and new artists, fashion, all areas of design, popular travel destinations, as well as new lifestyles, playstyles, and socio-economic conditions. Influences may also stem from new technologies, materials, textures, and effects that impact colour, relevant social media platforms and even upcoming sporting

events that capture worldwide attention. Say the Pantone experts: “Practical and rock solid but at the same time warming and optimistic, the union of PANTONE 17-5104 Ultimate Gray + PANTONE 13-0647 Illuminating is one of strength and positivity. It is a story of colour that encapsulates deeper feelings of thoughtfulness with the promise of something sunny and friendly. “Illuminating is a bright and cheerful yellow sparkling with

vivacity; a warming yellow shade imbued with solar power. Ultimate Gray is emblematic of solid and dependable elements, which are everlasting and provide a firm foundation. The colours of pebbles on the beach and natural elements whose weathered appearance highlights an ability to stand the test of time, Ultimate Gray quietly assures, encouraging feelings of composure, steadiness and resilience.”

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Business Tips

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the experts Photo by True Agency on Unsplash

Business Tips



How do I look after my staff’s wellbeing?

ow, more than ever, with the current challenging and stressful time many are going through, your employees’ wellbeing is critical. When your employee wellbeing is optimised, productivity, creativity and performance increases. But, what do we mean by employee wellbeing? Well, employee wellbeing is about how your work – your duties, job expectations, stress levels and environment – affect your happiness and your health. Wellbeing isn’t only about physical health, although of course nutrition and exercise is important, it’s also about mental wellbeing and less tangible factors like a sense of purpose. It’s about understanding your employees completely and considering their overall quality of life. Easier said than done, I know! However, I’ve outlined below seven powerful ways to boost the wellbeing of your employees in 2021.

1. Eradicate anonymity

How well do you know your staff? This is the number one most important factor when leading people. Patrick Lencioni explains this in his book, ‘The Truth about Employee Engagement’, where anonymity is one of the three signs of a miserable job. This is even more challenging now with many people working virtually and who may be feeling isolated and ‘anonymous’. Take a genuine interest in your staff and get to know them on a personal level. What motivates them? What do they enjoy doing outside of work? What challenges are they facing? Check in with them and communicate regularly. Ensure that they feel comfortable enough to speak up when feeling daunted, overwhelmed or stressed.

2. Purpose & meaning What is their personal purpose? Give them the tools to discover their purpose. Is their job purpose and relevance clear and is their personal purpose aligned to their job purpose? The closer these can be aligned the better.

It is incredibly important that your staff enjoy their work, find meaning and purpose in their work, are motivated and get excited about achieving results. This all contributes to their positive wellbeing and intrinsic motivation. They need to feel part

Employee wellbeing is about how your work – your duties, job expectations, stress levels and environment – affect your happiness and your health. of your company’s success, as well as part of overcoming challenges together.

3. Encourage friendships at work Positive relationships between colleagues will definitely boost employee wellbeing. Encourage friendships at work, where people

55 Business Business Trends Tips

enjoy working together and will support each other during tough times. The workplace is where you spend the majority of your time, and the more you enjoy the people you work with, the happier you will be.

4. Fitness with fun

Encourage friendships at work, where people enjoy working together and will support each other during tough times. can also be done virtually. There are many exercises you can do ‘at your desk’. Fitness competitions can be implemented like step challenges. We did this at our company and all the employees got Fitbit watches (or used the ones they already had); we formed teams and had a challenge for the most steps in the team. This created camaraderie, healthy competition, and loads of fun along with fitness. Cycle chairs, standing desks and a treadmill at the work place will help you instill fitness habits. We had a meeting room, which had a high table, for stand-up meetings. This was great for brainstorming and also for keeping the energy up.

5. Flexible work hours As mentioned earlier, staff wellbeing is about one’s overall quality of life. Implementing flexible working hours will do two things: it will allow employees to alter their working time to suit their personal lives, families and

Image by Mohamed Hassan from Pixabay

We all know the importance of being fit and healthy. Let it become part of your culture, but in an enjoyable and fun way. There are so many fitness ideas you can introduce, for instance, walking meetings are absolutely awesome, or breaks during the day where music gets turned up and everyone gets up and moves or dances. You can have yoga or stretching sessions to start your day or break your day, and these

hobbies, and it will also allow employees to work on their projects later, in their own time. More importantly, it tells your employees that you trust them. When you enable your employees to set and manage their own schedule as long as they hit their targets, deadlines and deliver results, they will be more committed and work harder. They will feel more like partners in your organisation. But it is crucial that you employ the right talent in the first place. ‘No Rules Rules: Netflix and the Culture Reinvention’, the book by Erin Meyer and Reed Hastings, explains that in order to achieve this, talent density is step one, and is the critical foundation.

aspects of overall wellbeing as it reduces stress, creates stronger focus and creativity and enhances relationships.

7. Recognition, praise and gratitude

6. Weekly employee wellbeing sessions

This is probably one of the easiest yet extremely powerful things to implement and make part of your culture. Peer to peer recognition and shout outs can be systemised where people feel appreciated and recognised by their colleagues and bosses. This is also another way of eradicating anonymity in Point 1 above. Showing each other gratitude has a massive impact on personal happiness and mental wellbeing. In summary, your employees are your most valuable asset, take care of them and value them.

These can be both affordable and virtual. Once a week an expert can speak to your staff about their wellbeing, on a host of subjects. You will find that many experts will jump at this opportunity because they are passionate about their subject, plus it gives them exposure. Topics could, for example, include the following: how to handle stress; mindlfulness; fitness tips; and healthy nutrition. Or, the expert could conduct a live virtual yoga or meditation session. Your staff will thrive. Practicing mindfulness impacts several

Bev Mileham is a keynote speaker, organisation culture consultant and Gallup Certified Strengths Coach. She recently returned to South Africa after living in Dubai for 25 years, where she has helped organisations in the Middle East achieve results through people performance, team performance and building an engaging and invigorating culture. bev@mileham.vip

online @ probeauty.co.za

BusinessNail Trends Art


Emerging nail trends for 2021 As we welcome 2021 and leave behind a somewhat perplexing year, what with having to close our businesses for a few months, we are ready to take on whatever comes our way, including the latest nail trends, writes Sonette van Rensburg nce we emerged from the COVID-19 pandemic lockdown, shorter lengths and nude nails could be seen. I think we expected clients to want their longer nails back and immediately have them done in bright, bold colours and designs. Nonetheless, clients were quite happy to keep them short to medium in length and discreet at first. This has inspired some rather interesting nail looks and trends with very wearable options, which are clean, fresh and minimalistic, yet stylish, refined and sophisticated. I’ve always felt that less is more and find it can sometimes make more of a classic statement than something too complicated. But it’s also great to be a little more adventurous. Let’s take a look at some of the most prevalent nail trends that are currently featuring and expected to make their debut on the nail fashion list this year.

Colourful Inspirations online @ probeauty.co.za

Courtesy of CND

Specifically chosen to convey and express a message of positivity, the Pantone shades for 2021 of enduring ‘Ultimate Grey’ and uplifting vibrant yellow ‘Illuminating’ are a colour marriage intended to provide us with resilience and hopefulness, after a challenging year. This year’s colour palette includes a selection of barely there nudes, simply sheer shade s, serene pastel hues, fresh muted minty greens and light-hearted, sweet candied pinks that convey a feeling of happiness. Making more of a bolder impression are vivacious and energetic shades of mulberry, candy apple red, tranquil blues and vivid green.

nails in a shorter time. Gel enhancements now feature more advanced technology, resulting in a completely flawless, crystal clear enhancement. This can be worn perfectly clear as a natural nail overlay, or extended and embedded with dry flowers, or encapsulated with other adornments. The clear glassy finish looks incredibly classy, enriches your colour coatings and makes nail designs absolutely pop!

Beautifully Buffed & Bare

Crystal Clear New innovative products have also made their appearance, with easier, more convenient ways of creating perfectly enhanced Courtesy of CND

Courtesy of CND

An impeccably performed manicure on healthy, well-kept nails that are shaped to perfection and buffed to a high gloss shine, is just as beautiful as a perfectly polished set. Just add a sheer coat of

shimmer or pale pink to be a little more eye-catching.

Nude & Understated The nude shades have always been a popular choice. Add a little subtle detailing on opposing nails and it takes them to a whole new level, still keeping them cleverly minimalistic. For a more subdued look, add simple modest designs in nuances of white; even refined Courtesy of CND

using two to three colours on the nails to create different shapes conjoining with one another.

We’re not talking about your typical wild, sassy leopard or cheetah prints, but a carefree fun ‘cow print’ loved and worn by celebs like Ariana Grande and Kendall Jenner, with different sized black splotches painted onto white. Or you can create your own adaptations of this print in different colours. Other playful patterns include stars, hearts, splashes, squiggles, zigzags and spots in various

Create an array of different looks with a spectrum of colours. Combine contrasting colours on one or more nails, or as a single colour accent on alternating nails. Other options, like the recently popular rainbow manicure, is the graduating of five similar shades or of any colour palette, in pastels,

Marvellous Marbling

Courtesy of Andrea Smith

colours on a clear, nude, white or even a colour background that will display these delightful designs.

Go Geo Sharp straight lines and bold geometric shapes are what make up this precisely constructed type of design, with lines and shapes usually created in darker bolder or Courtesy of Andrea Smith

Courtesy of Andrea Smith

neons or brights, with a different hue on each nail from pinkie to thumb. Another popular trend that has resurfaced is Colour Blocking,

Courtesy of Tracey Owgan

everyone can create crisp, clean lines. So why not try out these easy to do nail looks with a twist on French by painting just the very tips of the nails in your favourite colour, or even multiple colours? The great thing is that the edges don’t have to be perfect and there are no rules. Add a cute image, emoji, fruit or floral design onto the painted tip, leaving the rest of the nail clear.

A technique that hasn’t lost its appeal. You can achieve absolutely

Negative Space Designs

Contrasting Colours & Gradients

A different take on the original classic white French tip, as not

Playful Prints & Patterns

touches of matt black can keep these shades looking understated with a touch of complexity.

Still big on the nail scene, graphic minimal designs are painted onto the nail leaving spaces inbetween, with variations that can be created to give them an edge. This look really stands out and makes brighter colours look even more splendid when featured on a completely clear backdrop.

Deconstructed French

even brighter colours, onto a lighter or matte background, making your design more dominant. Get really inventive with these designs, creating from the simplest to more sophisticated patterns; add a few crystals or a touch of glitter or even spider gel here and there, and your design becomes something extraordinary.

Courtesy of CND

any finish with this technique, to look like traditional marble, granite or even gemstones. Glitz & Glamour Hints of gold or silver foil are the perfect nail accessory to add to absolutely any design, transforming your nail looks into something magical. Diamonds are a girl’s best friend, so arranging rhinestones, diamantes and pearls in different ways and shapes on ordinary polished nails, or on a design, is the most versatile way to give your nails a more lavish and luxurious look. With an assortment of looks and techniques, you can create some of the most distinctive thought provoking and unique styles and become a ‘Nail Fashionista’

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands. She is the South African distributor for The Eyelash Emporium. sonette@eyelashemporium.co.za

Nail Art


Nail Anatomy


Spotlight on the


Internationally recognised scientist, author and educator, Doug Schoon, shares some important new facts about the anatomy and structure of the natural nail online @ probeauty.co.za


he pterygium is a part of the nail that has been very misunderstood in terms of nail anatomy, so what exactly is it and where is it situated? To recap my previous articles about nail anatomy, cuticle tissue has its source from the very thin layer of stem cells found on the underside of the proximal nail fold (aka PNF). This is the entire flap of skin covering the matrix and extends from the edge of the visible nail plate to the first joint of the finger. The eponychium (which means ‘upon the nail’) is the only tissue that covers the new growth of nail plate and is the home of stem cells that make all the cuticle tissue. Also, the outer layer of the

proximal nail fold is covered with tissue whose surface can become keratinised when damaged/

Unless the skin is abnormal and stretched, it is NOT pterygium. This word should NEVER be used to describe the cuticle or any normal growth of skin. injured and will harden to create a highly protective shield that can resist attack by infectious organisms or potentially harmful

chemicals. Medical literature defines pterygium (terr-idge-ee-uhm) as any abnormal growth of skin that becomes stretched into a wing-like shape. In other words, unless the skin is abnormal and stretched, it is NOT pterygium. This word should NEVER be used to describe the cuticle or any normal growth of skin. Educators, please make sure you use and teach about this term correctly.

Common mistake Don’t make the common mistake of thinking that pterygium is just an ‘overgrowth of cuticle’. That is NOT correct! Researchers who study these problems believe

Nail technicians should NOT be intentionally abrading or cutting skin around the nail plate. The underlying tissue contains microscopic capillaries/ nerves that are often broken by cutting or using e-files,

pterygium occurs because the proximal nail fold becomes fused to the nail matrix. This fusion continues and progresses as shown, often until all the matrix is destroyed. Once the entire proximal nail fold is fused with the remaining nail plate, the slow, continued nail growth pulls and stretches the proximal nail fold into a triangular shape. This fusion process may continue until eventually most or all the matrix is destroyed. During these final stages, stretched skin becomes painful, the nail plate becomes thinner and if the matrix is completely destroyed – then new nail plate can no longer be made, and eventually the nail plate will be replaced by the proximal nail fold. There is no known way to stop or reverse the process. The nail matrix/ proximal nail fold fusion is thought to be triggered by injury or disease, e.g. burns, physical trauma, overly aggressive manicure and pedicure techniques, lichen planus, psoriasis or other medical conditions. Allergic reactions may also be the cause. Repeatedly contacting the proximal nail fold with any type of artificial nail coating materials, including all UV curing gels or monomer liquid and polymer powder formulations, can increase the risks of adverse skin reactions to the proximal nail fold and sidewalls. Any conditions with an unhealthy appearance should be referred to a doctor for examination. Pterygium should not be cut away by nail technicians, since it can bleed and become infected. It can be softened and conditioned, e.g. hot oil manicures.

Final thoughts The proximal nail fold is NOT the cuticle. Normally, the thin layer of cuticle tissue on the nail plate sits between the proximal nail fold and nail plate to create an important barrier (seal) against bacteria. This protects the nail matrix from infections that could lead to permanently damaged nail plates and, if left unchecked,

could spread to infect the bone. Similar infection can occur to the proximal nail fold and other tissues surrounding the nail plate. Cutting and overly aggressive manicure/ pedicure techniques of this area can break the tissue seal, allowing bacteria to penetrate and causing a nail to become infected. This is why it is important to carefully manicure/ pedicure these areas. Nail technicians should NOT be intentionally abrading or cutting skin around the nail plate. Some might believe and teach that the keratinised skin on the proximal nail fold is dead and safe to cut. This is NOT correct! The underlying tissue contains microscopic capillaries/ nerves that are often broken by cutting or using e-files. Pathogens (infectious organisms) can gain entry through this damaged tissue and this can lead to infections. AND, this damaged skin is significantly more likely to become permanently allergic to nail coating products through repeated exposure. Clearly, it is NOT in the client’s best interest to intentionally cut or abrade the proximal nail fold. The same advice applies for pterygium – this is NOT overgrown cuticle tissue. Don’t make this mistake! Please help clear up the confusion and share this information widely. Be sure to know the proper nail anatomy terms and use them correctly. Teach your clients and other nail professionals the facts. It’s time for the confusion to end.

Doug Schoon has over 30 years of experience in the cosmetic, beauty and personal care industry. He is a leading industry authority, known for his technical and regulatory work that has helped shape the beauty industry. He is co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC), and as CND’s chief scientist, was head of the R&D laboratory, QA, and Field Testing/ Evaluation departments for almost 20 years.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Nail Anatomy Trends


Business Trends In the market




Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Fancy feet The Callux Pro range has introduced its new Orange Fresh line. Callux Pro is a natural, organic way of dissolving dead skin cells. This system is quick, effective and easy to apply. It is a waterless option that is specially designed for diabetic clients. This costing conscious range leaves the feet callous free with long lasting hydration. The range is vegan certified.

072 437 0345

Off with the gel

Foot bath

Bio Sculpture’s Gel Remover is formulated using active ingredients that help prevent dehydration of the nail and surrounding skin. It has been specially designed to improve the gel removal process, with a soft green tint for easy identification and an aloe vera scent to enhance your client’s treatment experience.

The Ocean Fresh Foot Mineral Bath from QD Pro-Design Nails will leave tired feet feeling refreshed, renewed and exfoliated. This fizzy foot spa with non iodated salt is formulated with essential oils, minerals sourced from the Dead Sea and the Himalayas, seaweed from the South African coast and thymol to provide your clients with a real treat.

051 943 0377

076 376 5945

Marvellous magnesium Placecol has introduced its Magnesium Manicure and Pedicure Treatment for anyone who is seeking to not only aesthetically improve the appearance of their hands and feet, but to also take care of their physical and emotional wellbeing. There are also significant benefits for pain sufferers, due to magnesium’s potent antiinflammatory properties.

011 086 9800

online @ probeauty.co.za

Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to nail tech, make-up artist and salon owner, Riana Botha, about nail art and the industry at large

When did ‘nail fever’ first hit you? I initially started out as a part time make-up artist in 2007 whilst working full time as a personal assistant. However, the make-up work only kept me busy over weekends, when I was booked for a shoot or a wedding. Becoming a nail tech was something I had thought about for a long time, but between having a full time job and the make-up after hours, I was quite occupied to say the least. The bug really bit me when I had my nails done at Maureen Brill’s salon. It was then that I decided

that I also wanted to create beautiful nails and the happiness that goes along with it. I’ve been doing nails for seven years now – I did my initial training in 2014, but have not stopped learning since then. Because doing nails did not come as naturally to me as makeup, I had to put in a lot of work. It was definitely worth it though. My small boutique style home-based salon is called, Nails by Riana/The Make-up Monsters.

Do most of your clients request nail art? Yes, I am fortunate to have clients who love nail art and are open to

experimenting with new ideas. Whether it is an ombrè, French, or ‘glow in the dark’, most of my clients prefer nail art on their nails. I love doing nail art. Freehand is difficult at times but the industry has evolved so much that you don’t really need to be Picasso to give your clients

Getting to know my clients is important to me, as this is how I am able to provide the best service. gorgeous sets. For me it is not just about doing the art for my client. Sometimes the client is unsure as to what she wants her next set of nails to be. Being able to then do a set of nails that is to their liking is my favourite part of the job. I enjoy getting to

online @ probeauty.co.za



Q and A

62 know each of my clients and then providing a tailor-made service for each of them. Getting to know my clients is important to me, as this is how I am able to provide the best service. At the moment I am doing a lot of ombre French nails and cat eye polishes. My clients also love water transfer decals and stamping options. Personally I am a sucker for an ombre. I also enjoy experimenting with colours you would not normally pair together, using unique stamping plates and marbling.

How has your business managed to weather the covid-19 pandemic and lockdown? As with all businesses, mine was hit hard by the pandemic. Although it was difficult, I am thankful to my clients and to God. I am fortunate to have clients who paid for their nails in advance whilst we were in lockdown and unable to work. Furthermore, they also provided support and encouragement through the tough times. I thank God for blessing me with the clients I have. This is why I always encourage nail techs to build relationships with their clients. You never know when you will need their help, instead of them needing yours. There were also positives that came out of this pandemic. I was forced to rethink how I was doing things and this also allowed me to come up with some new ideas and services that I could offer to my clients, such as press-on nails, for example. The collective nail industry came together and realised that we needed to come up with something that would enable us to generate an income during the lockdown period. Press-on nails were born as a way for us to provide beautiful nails to our clients without having to come into contact with one another. I offered our clients a beautiful, handmade, custom shaped set of nails that they could

online @ probeauty.co.za

order and fit to their nails at home, lasting up to four weeks easily. We had a competition on one of the Facebook groups and Alina Fox created an online workshop to show us exactly how to make press-on nails, so we started creating sets for clients. The whole industry stood

There were also positives that came out of this pandemic. I was forced to rethink how I was doing things and this also allowed me to come up with some new ideas and services that I could offer to my clients. together and made this available to all nail techs. Although clients were sceptical at first, it did allow us to earn an income. The product offering is still in its infancy as a lot of clients still prefer an appointment at the salon, but I am sure over time it will also reach the success levels that press-on nails enjoy overseas.

A few years ago you started a Facebook group for the industry – please elaborate. Yes, it was called Nail Tech South Africa and is currently owned by Lehan Fourie from Maskscara. I had

meant seeing the ugly side of the industry as well. People are at times very opinionated and it was not always easy to have to work out what would be of the best benefit to everyone. Although I enjoyed being a part of it and seeing all the talent South Africa has, I eventually sold the page so that I could focus on some other ventures (such as The Make Up Monsters). In the end, I think we need to hear others out and realise that we can all learn from one another. Fortunately, I can see that this is happening more and more. a vision for the industry that was the driver behind the Facebook page. It had both positive and negative aspects and at times it was quite a big task to try and accommodate everyone on the page. The main idea was to have a platform on which everyone was able to share their work, ideas and participate in discussions, without having someone dictate the course of the page. This was at the time easier said than done but it provided me with the opportunity to rub shoulders with the brand owners and their brand ambassadors. I still cherish these relationships. Unfortunately, being ‘in the middle’ also

Pandemic aside, what do you think are the main challenges facing the industry? Poor training and people being able to purchase stock without going for proper training. I actually covered this very topic on The Make-up Monsters Facebook page in December 2020 (https:// www.facebook.com/The-MakeUp-Monsters-148079918620110). I wrote that some people like a bargain and like to shop and hop to find the best deal, because times are tough and everyone is looking for beauty hacks and beauty treatments on a budget. As a professional nail tech and make-up artist, I have seen that some ‘self-taught’ nail techs’ work is just impeccable, what with their attention to detail and natural craftsmanship. But it has left me wondering if these people would be able to identify, or know the difference between, a Greenie and a Nail Fungus, or know how to look at the overall nail health, or know the difference between onychomycosis and onycholysis and how to treat these types of nail conditions. Would those individuals know how to properly sanitise their implements? These are things you need to know as a nail technician and things you

need to know to be safe. Your client is entrusting you with their health; doing nails is not just a beauty treatment but can become serious if you, as an untrained person, start using E-files and other chemicals on the nails. Remember that gel and acrylic are chemicals. I think that all nail techs should be able to show their clients legitimate proof of training. I always say: ‘Cheap nails aren’t nice and nice nails aren’t cheap’.

What are you most proud of in your nail career? Being able to inspire others, providing the best service I can to my clients, and seeing how the industry pulled together as

Your client is entrusting you with their health; doing nails is not just a beauty treatment but can become serious if you, as an untrained person, start using E-files and other chemicals on the nails. a whole during this pandemic. I always want to be better than I was yesterday, and dream bigger than I did today.

What are your goals for the future? To continue to learn and to strive to offer an even better service to my clients, and growing my business – both the nails and the make-up. I want to go for more training and refresher courses, and also to learn something new, maybe Aquarelle Art training. In addition, I also want to further educate clients on the benefits that press-on nails can provide.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Q and A


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