38 damaged cells, meaning less nutrients are absorbed by the skin and more waste products are built up Van Sittert believes a key ingredient for menopausal skin is Vitamin A / retinol. She continues: “This ingredient has the most research backing to prove that it reverses the signs of skin ageing and the repair of damaged DNA. Peptides are also vital as your skin needs amino acids to rebuild collagen. Peptides are chains of amino acids that support new collagen and elastin growth as well as repair. “In addition, because the skin cannot produce collagen without Vitamin C and the body does not produce Vitamin C, topical application of this vitamin is therefore crucial. Vitamin B3, on the other hand, repairs Langerhans cells to improve skin sensitivity, whilst normalising melanin / pigment production.” Van Sittert also recommends Hyaluronic acid (for moisture); skin identical ceramides (to keep the skin barrier intact); cell to cell communication improvers to ensure maximum penetration of active ingredients; SPF and pollution protection; and chemical exfoliation with Alpha-hydroxy acids.
Trio of products The Vitality Booster Masque from Vitaderm is a creamy clay masque which contains high concentrations of anti-oxidant nutri-ceuticals, such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (Vitamin C), ferulic acid, ubiquinol and glutathione. These ingredients offer incredible anti-free radical and anti-ageing benefits. Ascorbyl
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tetraisopalmitate is a revolutionary Vitamin C compound that is oil soluble and therefore very stable against oxidation. Phyto extracts assist in conditioning the skin, increasing skin radiance and offering antiinflammatory properties. Also from Vitaderm, the Nutrient Complex is ultranourishing and especially suited for dry, very dry and mature skin types. The advanced nutri-ceuticals that have been incorporated into this formulation include a revolutionary Vitamin C compound that is oil soluble and therefore very stable against oxidation. The addition of ferulic acid ensures unsurpassed antioxidant benefits. This anhydrous blend is preservative free. For adult acne, Vitaderm’s Purifying Treatment Cream is a highly effective formulation that contains salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) found in willow bark. Salicylic acid is extremely effective in assisting in the reduction of inflammation that is associated with acne-prone skin. In addition, this ingredient helps normalise the rate of keratinisation, thereby reducing the accumulation of keratinised cells on the surface of the skin, as well as inside the pores. This helps prevent congestion in the pores. The addition of tea tree leaf extract and aloe vera extract further assists in healing and reducing inflammation.
DHEA effect Specifically dedicated to mature skin, the Ericson Laboratoire DHE-Age Rich Cream incorporates active ingredients capable of reproducing the positive effects of DHEA (an endogenous steroid hormone) on the skin. Enriched with wild yam, vegeseryl, nutriskin, Vitamin E, corn and macadamia oils, it possesses triple-action effectiveness – anti-wrinkle, antisagging and reinforced nutrition. “The skin is regenerated deep down and shows renewed signs
of vitality and youth,” says Tatiana Shuvalova of Ericson Laboratoire SA. “Rich and non-greasy, it is perfectly suited to the most undernourished skin types.” She notes that DHEA makes the skin softer by increasing its content in terms of water and lipids. “The skin becomes more resistant; keratinocytes that determine the ‘solidity’ of the skin are strengthened by the DHEA, and contain more organites such as keratinosomes and granules of keratohyalin. Consequently, the skin becomes thicker and DHEA inhibits the production of collageneses.”
Innovative mask Black Pearl has several products suited to menopausal skin, such as the innovative Thermal Mask. Says Black Pearl South Africa’s Michelle Roberts: “The Thermal Mask contains a unique complex that integrates natural minerals with vitamins and additional active components such as zeolite and sea buckthorn oil. It begins to act and warm the skin from the very first touch. The heating effect gently encourages the pores to open while the mask thoroughly cleanses and enables its active substances to penetrate the skin more easily. The mask will give the skin a smooth, refined and supple look and natural iridescence.” Because collagen is the most common protein in the human body and its intensive firming
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