AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Conscious living in the workplace
Dealing with psoriasis, eczema and rosacea
Nov/Dec 2020 | probeauty.co.za
Sustainability as a competitive edge
In this issue... Regulars
8 Industry news
20 Talking to…Jacqui Faucitt
40 Crowning glory What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
41 In the market All the latest launches
Business 13 Ask the Experts All your questions answered
14 How sustainability unlocks value in your business Go green to remain competitive
17 Vagul nerve toning Controlling your emotional responses
23 Consult to win Never skimp on consultation
24 Top 5 critical priorities to focus on right now Get your act together
26 Cosmetic regulations in the USA Breaking into the American market
New Business Focus 18 New aesthetics & wellness centre is all ‘a-glow’ Lueur opens in Sandton
Founder of RégimA
Wellness 28 Conscious living in the workplace A health-promoting lifestyle
Features 30 Lash and brow enhancements Focus on the eye area
34 Complexion complexities A dermatologist’s perspective on psoriasis
37 Products to support treatment of psoriasis, eczema and rosacea What therapists can recommend
42 Tightening the intimate area Non-surgical vaginal rejuvenation
Aesthetic medicine 44 Rejuvenation in reverse A preventative approach to ageing
Nails 47 NailFile Issue 37
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Photo by Brooke Lark on Unsplash
Local and international news
The Professional Beauty team was extremely disappointed to have to postpone our first and only post COVID-19 lockdown event of 2020, a business conference and table top buyers forum originally scheduled for 1 and 2 November at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. This was to be a strictly controlled event in terms of social distancing and hand sanitisation, observing all government COVID health & safety protocols, and safer than a visit to a shopping mall. While we fully understand the extreme anxiety and danger surrounding potential coronavirus infection (and experience exactly the same anxiety and fears ourselves every time we leave our homes), we were somewhat surprised to get feedback from salon owners/ managers saying it was too risky to attend. Surprised simply because these are people who are in daily close physical contact with clients. Some of these owners and managers even perform treatments themselves, which means they touch clients. While we did get a fair number of registrations for the event, it was not enough to guarantee a high attendance for our exhibitors, hence the need to postpone. The event will now take place on 7 and 8 March 2021, still at Gallagher Convention Centre and we look forward to seeing you all there.
Joanna Sterkowicz: Editor
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA Publisher Mark Moloney
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Managing Director Yolanda Knott
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Cover source: Photo by Marcelo Dias from Pexels Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com
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Great speakers Great content Your chance to grow and grow your business Topics include Change you and your business for the better Unstoppable Social Media & Authentic Influencer Strategies Sustainable Beauty Mental Wellness - one of the most valuable business assets! How to â€œDigitiseâ€? your Beauty Business and Create New Income Streams How to not only gain, but to and maintain a true Competitive Edge
Visit www.probeauty.co.za for more information
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Pollution and your skin Dr Des Fernandes, founder and head of scientific development at Environ Skincare, answers questions on why it is important to protect your skin from pollution and what products to use.
What adverse effects does pollution have on the skin?
Chemical pollution from gases in the atmosphere may be toxic to your skin cells, or they may form free radicals that damage your cells. Physical pollution may clog the pores of your skin and also have local toxic effects. Bacteria and fungi may cause irritation of the skin and alter the natural microbiome. Blue light is being used more widely and that can aggravate pigmentation blemishes on the face.
Are the Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution Spritz and the Anti-Pollution Masque the first 2 Environ products that exist to specifically help protect the skin against pollution? Because Environ has focused on pollution since its inception, we always included this into our main products. As newer molecules and concepts evolved, we needed to make these specific products to protect the skin. Once again, we found that we couldn’t fit everything into one product and that is why we recommend two products that work together.
How long were the products in development? Since about 2014 with reworking the formulae several times. The Environ formulae are always complex, with many active
ingredients at their optimal concentration, and then we spent a year or two getting clinical experience.
How does each product work to combat the effects of pollution? The Environ Spritz is there to strengthen the outer protective layer, support and rebalance the microbiome, protect against blue light, reduce pigmentation and protect against free radicals. The Anti-Pollution mask is primarily to absorb pollutants. It also acts against free radicals and soothes and hydrates the skin, while strengthening the natural skin barrier function.
EXTRACT) to deactivate pollution and enhance barrier resistance f. NIACINAMIDE (vitamin B3): Powerful antioxidant and blue light blocker The Anti-Pollution Masque contains a. Japanese Ubami Oak Charcoal that absorbs impurities very effectively b. ACNACIDOL®: rebalance and normalize sebum production c. PHYTOFUSE RENEW®: Potent antioxidant and hydration d. SHEA BUTTER AND JOJOBA ESTERS: hydration e. KAOLIN clay that absorbs pollutants
What are the key ingredients in each product?
Are any of the key ingredients exclusive to Environ?
Environ is always multifunctional with many key ingredients in each product to work together.
No. The ‘cocktails’ of ingredients are unique to Environ.
The Anti-Pollution Spritz contains a. POLLUSTOP®: physical barrier to protect against atmospheric, UV and urban pollution b. ACTIBIOME®: rebalance biodiversity of the skin’s microbiome c. Ascorbyl glucoside a HIGH POTENCY VITAMIN C: to fight free radicals d. Inula Helenium extract (SPECIALISED PLANT EXTRACT) to reduce free radicals produced by blue light e. Garden Cress Sprout extract (HIGHLY CONCENTRATED PLANT
This is best used after a stressful day. I don’t think people will use it every evening but they can safely do that.
How often should one use the Anti-Pollution Masque?
If one is wearing base/ foundation – can one still spray the Anti-Pollution Spritz over it? Will it not disrupt the makeup coverage? While I can’t speak from experience I have been told, and I have seen, that it is safely used over make-up (beware mascara). It’s a good idea to also apply the spritz before make-up.
CITY COMFORT be CALM. be RESILIENT. be BEAUTIFUL.
Introducing: Environ’s New Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution Spritz and Masque Born from extensive scientific research and the constant pursuit of developing best-in-class skincare, Environ introduces two new Anti-Pollution innovations, formulated with highly intelligent anti-pollution ingredients that offer complete protection against the harmful effects of indoor and outdoor pollution. FOCUS CARE+ ANTI-POLLUTION SPRITZ A light-weight invisible, breathable physical shield that also assists to rebalance the effects of the skin’s microbiome, protect against blue-light induced free radicals, and strengthen the skin’s resistance with a normalised skin barrier function. FOCUS CARE+ ANTI-POLLUTION MASQUE Formulated with Japanese charcoal and specialised botanicals, Environ’s new multi-functional charcoal masque with powerful purifying effects helps to absorb pollutant impurities, normalise and hydrate the appearance of skin, leaving it feeling revitalised and smooth. Contact Environ Distribution South Africa at (011) 262 0264 to find out more. Available from 15 January 2021.
Salon & spa sector optimistic about coming months Photo by Raphael Lovaski from Unsplash
Several South African spas and salons have reported an increase in business in recent months and are positive about the remaining summer season. Sherbet Angel Boutique Salon in Linden, Johannesburg, has experienced a surge of business and is in the process of expanding to meet demand. Says Nicole Blazevic, who coowns Sherbet Angel along with Lisa Rautenbauch and Mareli Gardner: “We are adding a hair salon to our business and breaking through walls as I speak. While we’re delighted that business has picked up, it’s been the result of a lot of hard work that we did throughout the COVID-19 lockdown and continue to this day. Every day we focus on business planning and motivating our staff. “During lockdown we pivoted our business by introducing online sales and voucher sales, renting out equipment and creating DIY kits for clients to use at home. We thought it was absolutely essential to keep personal contact with clients going, as out of sight, out of mind. In addition, we invested in a strong online presence to make sure we were visible on every single social media platform.” Blazevic notes that business soared straight after lockdown was lifted in late June, but then dipped. “Business has now stabilised,” she continues, “and we’ve noticed that in the summer months, more people
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are willing to venture out to salons.”
Growth After considering not opening its spa until early 2021, management at The Westin in Cape Town opened the spa on a trial basis on 1 October. Says spa manager Nicola van Huyssteen: “By that time we already had a hundred treatments prebooked online and our expectations of market demand were completely exceeded. At first we only opened four days a week (Thursday to Sunday) and then in November added an extra day. From December we will be open seven days a week. “We compared our turnover for four days a week to the same time last year (which was seven days a week) and discovered that we’ve experienced a growth in business. I’m ecstatic about this. “Ninety-five-percent of our clients post lockdown have been from outside the hotel and spa memberships have picked up. We are so grateful to our amazing guests for coming back to us and for being aware of how seriously we take hygiene and safety.”
Fully booked Kym Stafford of Dolce Vita Beauty Centre reports that business has picked up a lot since reopening post lockdown. “The aesthetics side of the business is fully booked and we have three therapists performing these treatments. Permanent make-up is also fully booked, with lashes as well. Nails are getting there, slowly but surely, and massage is also growing. So, we’re definitely much busier than before. “I’m feeling positive about the
next few months to the extent that I’ve invested in a new laser machine,” comments Stafford. Lourette Du Toit of Dermology in Sandton says that while she and her team were very uncertain of what was lying ahead post hard lockdown, they have been pleasantly surprised with the numerous bookings that continued to come through and increase. “I found that it was up and down in the beginning; whenever government made a COVID-related announcement regarding infection spikes and risks, we experienced cancellations or rescheduled appointments. However, from about September, enquiries and bookings have increased again and are relatively stable. With the festive season coming up, we normally enter our ‘busy season’, and I can definitely say this year is the same, if not more,” comments Du Toit.
Turnover percentages on the up Spa & salon software company, ESP, which provides a complimentary business intelligence analysis and consultation service for its clients, is continually processing data to generate a meaningful trend analysis for the industry. Says ESP’s Arno Steijn: “Based on the current trend and with international travel being opened up, we are expecting a bumper festive season, and even growth in the industry as a whole by the end of the first quarter 2021. “Having tracked and processed total turnover data each month from July 2020 to October 2020 and compared it to the same months last year, it’s clear that the beauty salon and spa business is definitely picking up. In July 2020, businesses experienced a 41% drop in total turnover compared to July 2019. The following month saw a 34% drop compared to the same time last year. September 2020 was only 28% lower than September 2019, while October 2020 was 24% down on 2019.” Steijn notes that retail performed far better than treatment services during the above-mentioned months.
South African-founded skincare brand, Environ, has launched a six-month long campaign to boost the daily nutrition of vulnerable preschoolers. The #EnvironCares campaign has joined hands with stockists, beauty therapists and consumers and pledged R500,000 to support a vital children’s nutrition programme in the GROW Educare Centres. This donation has been linked to the sales of the Environ Original range and the public can also donate to the programme online, on the GivenGain platform (https://www.givengain.com/cc/ environ-cares-feed-our-future/). Say Val Carstens, Environ Skin Care Group chairperson,
RalphChenelle changes ownership
Environ supports pre-school nutrition programme
CEO and director: “The #EnvironCares campaign has partnered with GROW Educare Centres because they have an effective child nutrition programme infrastructure already in place, which ensures that the donation reaches the children who are at risk of malnutrition. We’re concerned at the current hunger-situation in South Africa and Environ wants to support to make a difference.” The campaign will enable GROW Educare Centres situated in Cape Town, Johannesburg and Durban communities to provide a power porridge meal to 1, 800 children, for five days a week over the sixmonth campaign period, resulting in a total of 238,000 meals.
Ché Richardson is the new owner of the RalphChenelle salon in Bryanston, Johannesburg, taking over from founder, Rozanne Pelser, who had the salon for 13 years. This is Richardson’s first venture into the beauty business. “I have always had a love for skincare and the science behind it,” she explains, “so when the RalphChenelle opportunity came along, I grabbed it with both hands. For the past 13 years I worked in marketing and advertising, and prior to that, in conveyancing and property law. Merging my business and client service skills with my passion for beauty is extremely exciting. “I was previously a client at the salon but had been friends with Rozanne Pelser before that. What appealed to me about RalphChenelle is that it offers a turnkey luxury experience. It is bespoke and this is something that you don’t often find these days. I believe in maintaining that personal touch with each and every client and look forward to elevating the business to new heights.” Pelser, who now lives in New Zealand, adds: “I know that Ché Richardson is the perfect fit to continue the RalphChenelle legacy and create even more incredible memories moving forward.” Richardson will be retaining the RalphChenelle name but is looking at a design rebrand in the near future and showcasing a fresh new look. She will soon be integrating a new organic brand into the existing ranges of professional skincare products and treatments.
Imbalie Beauty opens online academy The Imbalie Beauty Group, owner of the Placecol, Perfect 10 and Dream Nails salons, has officially launched its new iBLOOM Beauty & Wellness Academy. Says Imbalie Beauty CEO, Esna Colyn: “Whilst interacting with salon franchise and independent partners and beauty therapists during lockdown, it became apparent that not only is there a need for continuous professional development and training, but even more so, that there was no single, unique platform which enabled qualified practitioners within the beauty and wellness industry to continue their personal professional growth and transformation, at their own pace and during timeslots that suited them.
Photo by Moose Photos from Pexels
“This led to the establishment of iBLOOM, a premium professional development organisation, focusing on refinement, prestige and leadership. Through a combination of online and physical training (as required), the academy will provide on-going professional beauty education and transformation for
professionals within our country. However, it also puts South Africa on the map, as the beauty and wellness training is available to professionals globally, via this digital platform.” All training is headed up by the academy’s director and principal, Lisa Leibov.
‘Brow Queen’ launches flagship store in Sandton Founder of the UniQBrows franchise, Unaiza Suliman, has opened her latest store, in the Sandton City Shopping Mall. This new store will remain under Suliman’s ownership and is where she performs microblading treatments. In the meantime, Suliman, who is known as ‘SA’s Brow Queen’, is promoting the UniQBrows’ micro-franchise option where, instead of franchising an entire store, business owners can set up a UniQBrows station (complete with a UniQBrows trained brow & lash technician) in their salon or spa. This micro-franchise option is known as the UniQBrows Brow & Lash Express. At the time that this magazine
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was published, Suliman was looking forward to the opening of micro-franchises within three Foschini stores (i.e. Sandton City, Fourways and Mall of Africa). Suliman’s brow journey began with a simple brow kiosk in 2011. There are now seven stores in the UniQBrows franchise. The Sandton City branch includes five treatment rooms – one is for microblading treatments, another for IV drip injections (under the auspices of Dr Nadine Cajee and a resident nurse), and a laser hair removal room (complete with an Alma Lasers machine), as well as two lash extension rooms for treatments (using 3D art volume lashes imported from the USA).
Threading, lash lifts, tinting, henna tints, sugaring for the upper lip and brow lamination treatments take place at stations at the front of the store. All UniQBrows staff members have gone through Suliman’s own skills development programme and had no prior experience in brow or lash treatments. In addition, they have all completed CIDESCO Occupational & Safety Training Courses.
Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels
Positive attitudes towards touch are linked with greater well-being and lower levels of loneliness, according to a huge new global study from BBC Radio 4’s All In The Mind and Wellcome Collection, which investigated public attitudes and experiences of touch. Primarily conducted before the UK was in lockdown, the Touch Test demonstrated that most people view interpersonal touch positively and that nearly half of typical adults felt that society does not enable us to touch enough, even before the Covid-19 pandemic. According to the BBC, this study provides one of the most detailed sources of insight that we have on contemporary attitudes towards touch – at a time when the
Results of world’s largest study of touch revealed
coronavirus pandemic has brought the subject of touch into the heart of everyone’s lives. The Touch Test garnered responses from almost 40,000 people across 112 different countries and ran from 21 January to 30 March 2020. The top two findings of the study were that 72% of people reported
a positive attitude towards touch, while 43% of typical adults feel that society does not enable us to touch enough. For more information about the study go to https://www.bbc.co.uk/ mediacentre/latestnews/2020/thetouch-test-results) (Source: BBC Media Centre)
Changes at Elemis Luxury British spa brand, Elemis, has appointed Noella Gabriel to the position of global president and Oriele Frank to chief product and sustainability officer. The brand’s CEO, Sean Harrignton, has joined the board of L’Occitane International, which acquired Elemis last year. All three of the above executives are the co-founders of Elemis. Gabriel previously headed up Elemis USA. In her new position, Gabriel will oversee the USA, UK and EMEA regions and contribute strategically and operationally to business performance across Asia-Pacific. Frank will focus on products, developing sustainable packaging and reducing carbon emissions across the whole country.
Liz McKeon awarded coveted accreditation
Professional Beauty contributor and internationally renowned salon business expert, author and coach, Liz McKeon, has been awarded Business All-Star Thought Leader in Empowering Female Entrepreneurs accreditation. This independently verified standard mark is based on rigorous selection criteria and
signifies that McKeon’s business meets the highest standards of service and trust. Says McKeon: “My accreditation makes me feel very acknowledged and happy to see that female entrepreneurship is being so highly recognised and it’s good to know that I’ve played a small role in that. I feel this award is almost like a lifetime achievement and I like the fact that it’s on my own merit.
“It is very empowering to receive recognition within my own industry and recognition in relation to the importance of female entrepreneurship in general. I would like to use this award to continue my work in assisting women in business.”
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Rejuvenate, cleanse & hydrate your skin hygienically and safely with H2glow technology and treatments. Customised skin care treatments for professional and retail.
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Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay
ask Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
How does swimming, either in the pool or sea, affect my client’s skin?
kin cells consist of 70% water, so you would think water is imperative to skin health and optimal functioning. While this is true from an internal perspective, the question to pose is whether sea water and swimming pool water benefits or damages the skin? Sea water has many health benefits due to its high salt content. Salt is a natural antiseptic and anti-bacterial substance, which is beneficial for acne-ridden skin. Sea water also contains high levels of minerals (calcium, magnesium, etc.), which are especially important in the treatment of skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Historically, bathing in mineral rich water was called ‘balneotherapy’ and showed results in the treatment of autoimmune (where the immune system attacks its own healthy cells) skin conditions. Another type of therapy – climatotherapy – is where you
expose yourself to cold water often, which stimulates blood circulation and the skin’s immune system. It is therefore highly beneficial to expose your body to cold sea water often, but ensure that you do not forget your SPF, as sun rays penetrate through water and can be detrimental to skin health. Regarding exposure to swimming pool water – you may have seen the effect swimming has on blonde hair, where it is left with a green tinge. Now imagine what it does to the skin, keeping in mind that we cannot always visibly see the effects on the skin immediately, like we do on hair. The high levels of chlorine necessary to keep pools clean can be extremely irritating, harmful and damaging to the skin. Chlorine breaks down into two compounds when exposed to water. These are Hypochlorous acid and chloramines, which are needed to disinfect the pool. The effect on your skin is quite different to that of sea water exposure, as it
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may lead to excessively dry and irritated skin, not to mention the burns and rashes that can develop. This is due to pores becoming slightly more enlarged, which leads to a loss of essential skin protective oils. The Hypochlorous acid can also aggravate preexisting skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis because of the increased inflammation that it triggers in the skin. If your skin is already predisposed to any of the above conditions and you still want to swim, you can reduce the effect on the skin by immediately applying vitamin C after showering off the chlorine water and moisturising with a product that will reinforce the skin’s barrier. Diana van Sittert is the operational manager at SkinPhD. After finishing her Diploma in Somatology and practicing as a therapist, she ventured into sales and education for various national and international brands. She has educated and advised over 29,000 end consumers, distributors, franchisees and therapists in over 20 countries. diana@Skinphd.co.za
Seven ways in which
unlocks value in your business Photo by Chelsea on Unsplash
While practicing sustainability is considered the right thing to do, many owners question the inherent benefits of pursuing it within their businesses. Charne le Roux of GreenSpa.Africa explains why they should invest in sustainability
e still see sustainability as a luxury investment or a public relations exercise driven by moral duty. Consequently, ‘sustainability’ is often incorporated into some or other social responsibility initiative, residing within an HR or PR department commandeered for this purpose. But unless underscored by a much broader commitment, such initiatives often
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fail to reach critical mass beyond the limelight of the launch. The importance of sustainability as one of a spa’s business primary objectives was emphasised recently by the Green Spa Network, which stated that going green is very much about staying competitive and that by not adopting sustainable practices, spas overlook a key strategy for growth. Alannah Weston, who is group chair of Selfridges, the well-known high-end fashion and cosmetics
store in the UK, was asked in an interview a few weeks ago whether a company can be sustainable and profitable at the same time. Her answer was that ‘companies will not be profitable unless they are sustainable’.
Responsibility Consumers and investors have honed in considerably on sustainable products and services over the last 20 years and this has manifested positively in buying patterns and habits. More and
Sustainable spas have become the destinations of choice for a discerning clientele, where prospective spa guests now weigh a spa’s environmental conservation efforts and community upliftment practices before rewarding them with their custom. discerning guests. Loyal repeat visits and valuable word-of-mouth endorsements are a natural consequence of this positive feedback loop. Also, thanks to their commitment to local communities and their subsequent contribution to the micro-economies of the area by, for example, purchasing locally produced goods, sustainable spas often, as a result,
benefit from the economic stimulus. The ability of smaller businesses to expand their operations, better their infrastructure and implement a greater diversity of commercial trade, often follow community success.
In detail But let’s consider in more detail seven points that demonstrate why investment in sustainability will generate benefits to spa businesses.
The financial performance of sustainable companies worldwide provides a good starting point. Already in 2012, an analyses by Deutsche Bank evaluated 56 different studies, all of which concluded that companies with high ratings for environmental, social, and corporate governance generally had lower costs. The Deutsche Bank study found that almost 90% of those studies showed that such companies outperform the market in the medium and long term. Additionally, a 2017 Boston Consulting Group study also found that sustainable companies attract higher financial valuations.
As already indicated, consumers and investors alike have shifted their focus significantly in recent years, and when it comes to their acquisition
decision making, sustainable products and services enjoy strong preference. In late 2019, a survey conducted by Accenture, a Fortune Global 500 professional consultancy, found that more than half of consumers said they would pay more for sustainable products. The survey of 6,000 consumers in 11 countries across North America, Europe and Asia, confirmed that more than 80% of consumers consider it important for companies to design products that are meant to be reused or recycled. Nearly 75% of the respondents indicated that they are currently buying more environmentally friendly products than they were five years ago, and over 80% of them expected to buy more over the next five years.
It is no surprise to note that sustainable companies are getting access to special funds at preferential rates.
Sustainable businesses foster innovation, the backbone of success, by identifying new opportunities or creating new products and services to conform to environmental standards or social needs. By way of example, the Puma company developed a tool to measure the cost to nature
Photo by Lukas Pexels
more consumers now believe that they have a responsibility, through their purchasing power, to make a positive impact on the environment and society. And this responsibility is increasingly being discharged in the spa environment. Sustainable spas have become the destinations of choice for a discerning clientele, where prospective spa guests now weigh a spa’s environmental conservation efforts and community upliftment practices before rewarding them with their custom. And, passing muster, those spas that have been shown to incorporate authentic, natural and indigenous treatments and hire local staff thereby contributing to their local communities, attract the most
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Photo by Aaron Burden on Unsplash
Business Trends Business Tips
of their manufacturing process, calculating the volume of potable water consumed, pollution caused and topsoil lost when a new product is created. A large cosmetic manufacturer in South America, Natura, recently started developing products specifically aimed at protecting the biodiversity and traditional knowledge in Amazonia, over and above already making products that are natural or organic. Closer to home, Esse Skincare, which has its head office in Kwa Zulu Natal, has its whole range of products certified organic and carbon neutral, and in addition, has received several awards for its cutting-edge and advanced innovations in the area of formulation, including for an intensely hydrating serum (containing hyaluronic acid) and its probiotic serum.
Adding up savings that arise from the reduction in energy and water use, improved staff retention, lower waste generation and better collaboration across different markets, sustainable spas generally enjoy lower overall operational costs.
Sustainable businesses are also employers of choice, by offering healthier working environments to their staff, engaging their staff in decision making processes and collaborating with their immediate communities.â€ŻEmployee morale and motivation are much higher in
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green companies and this translates into reduced absenteeism, improved productivity and a marked reduction in staff turnover.
It is no surprise then to note that sustainable companies are getting access to special funds at preferential rates. Green Bonds and similar financial instruments are increasingly becoming available in the market. For example, the Johannesburg Stock Exchange itself already offers Green Bonds to businesses to stimulate investment in
What needs to happen now is for spa businesses to start thinking about sustainability as a critical corporate survival tool. sustainable infrastructure, technologies and services. These funds are exclusively used for the financing or re-financing of new or existing eligible green projects that have a positive environmental benefit. Many of our local banks are also gearing their funding in this direction, with Nedbank saying that it would prefer to offer financing for projects in energy efficiency and renewable energy, such as landfill gas, solar, hydro
and wind projects. This came alongside an announcement by the bank (in which it was joined by the other major South African banks) to withdraw funding for the construction of new coal-fired power plants. Green funding is, however, not just available for large businesses and multi million rand projects. The Green Fund, driven by the Department of Environmental Affairs, specifically targets SMMEs who can demonstrate a positive sustainability impact, whether in service or product delivery.
Lastly, we are seeing an increase in regulation around business activities that have environmental and social impacts. The Carbon Tax Act of 2019, the Waste Act of 2008, the Air Quality Act of 2004 and the Employment Equity Act of 1998 being some examples. The King III report on corporate governance that applies to the governance structures and operation of companies in South Africa provides for specific measures to promote ethical socio-economic and environmental actions. Sustainable businesses face fewer operational risks in complying with these regulations because they have already adapted their businesses to meet environmental and social challenges. Taking all of this into consideration, it is clear that what needs to happen now is for spa businesses to start thinking about sustainability as a critical corporate survival tool.
Charne le Roux is a leading sustainability expert in the wellness industry and the founder of GreenSpa. Africa. She was a senior partner in the law firm Adams & Adams, heading the firmâ€™s sustainability initiative as an accredited professional of the Green Building Council. Le Roux developed the first dedicated organic spa in South Africa, is the author of the Green Spa Guide, and developed a sustainability audit tool for spas and salons, the Green Spa Calculator. email@example.com
Vagul nerve toning – you have the power
am almost too nervous to mention the ‘C word’ but to give this article context I must – COVID. We have all read articles and books about resilience and bouncing back through tough times, as we try and negotiate the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic. What has surprised me during this pandemic is the sudden upward swing towards natural remedies, some of which have been in practice for centuries. We have had these tools at our disposal for years, but it took a massive global pandemic to open our eyes to what is around us. I suppose this is a positive outcome of the current crisis. People are taking charge of their lifestyles and choosing to try and balance things naturally versus through synthetic medication or a traditional western approach. People are trying to find a way to balance the trauma around them. According to the Integrated Listening website, trauma is described as follows: ‘The response to a deeply distressing or disturbing event that overwhelms an individual’s ability to cope, often causing feelings of despair and resulting in a feeling of diminished self, as well as a decline of the ability to feel the full extended range of emotions and experiences.”
Emotional response Trauma can also be seen as the
emotional response to stress in the body. And when stored for long periods of time, it can result in an imbalance where mental health becomes affected and the nervous system falls out of sync. In today’s modern stressful lifestyles, our bodies seem to prefer to lean towards the sympathetic nervous system; the side of the nervous system that pumps adrenaline, prefers fight and flight, and often leads to weight gain and disease. This is simply programming – we have told our body that stimulating these things leads to drive, success and performance. Consequently, we often miss the benefits of the parasympathetic nervous system. This is the ‘rest and digest’ part of the body, the ‘calm and quiet’ and the part of the nervous system that regulates weight gain, build-up of toxins and disease.
Balance The vagus nerve is the longest nerve in the body and it ensures the balance of the parasympathetic and sympathetic nervous systems. It is the nerve that sends a signal to the brain to tell the body whether it should respond or react to a stimulus or environment. Today’s lifestyle has our bodies on autopilot to always react and this isn’t healthy. An ancient practice of vagul nerve toning can allow for a
Image by Robin Higgins from Pixabay
Lauren Gibson provides insight on how to deal with traumatic times
more balanced nervous system and one that is not constantly in distress or reaction. Vagul nerve toning can be done via a variety of practices such as humming, taking 10-15 slow deep breaths, daily intake and application of probiotics, meditation and splashing your face with cold water. All of these things when done on a regular basis allow for the reduction of anxiety and the regulation of mental health, which in turn starts to regulate the two nervous systems. By stimulating the vagus nerve you can inform your body that it needs a time out and a chance to relax, ensuring that you control how you feel. Lauren Gibson has over 15 years in the health and beauty industry with qualifications in yoga, mindfulness, content marketing and management practice. firstname.lastname@example.org
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Business Business Trends Tips
New Business Focus
New aesthetics & wellness centre is all ‘a-glow’ The ultra-luxurious Lueur Aesthetics & Wellness opened in Sandton on 1 September after a remarkably short setup time. Owner Bev Courtney tells Joanna Sterkowicz how it all came about and why this establishment stands out in the market If the name Bev Courtney sounds familiar to Professional Beauty readers, it’s because she is the owner of Grace Skin and Wellness in Parkmore, a thriving beauty and nail salon that has managed to weather the COVID-19 storm. As to why Courtney would choose to open Lueur (which means ‘glow’ in French), an extensive aesthetics and wellness centre with spa facilities, only a few roads away, it’s because she felt there was a real need for such an offering in the market. “Just before COVID struck, I was wanting to expand Grace and also to bring in the high end French skincare brand, Bioloqique Recherche,” she says. “I discovered the brand during a trip to France a few years ago, when I googled ‘best facial in Paris’ and Biologique Recherche
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popped up at the top of the list. Once I experienced the facial, I was so blown away that I’ve used their products, which are all cold processed, ever since. All the massage movements in their facials are designed to change muscle memory. At that time Bioloqique was only exclusively
available in South Africa at The Westcliff Hotel Spa. “When planning to expand my business a few months ago, I decided that Biologique was not quite suited to Grace as it’s more of a home salon, so I decided to launch a new, full on, deluxe aesthetics centre.
Instead of investing in someone else’s property, my husband and I decided to convert our existing family home in Sandton to Lueur. “There was very little refurbishment necessary – we only put in one new wall between two treatment rooms. We already had an outdoor heated pool, as well as an outdoor Jacuzzi and a steam shower and we’ve used our own furniture and art. The whole setting up process took just a month.” This prime property occupies 5,000 square metres and is characterised by beautiful and intricate gardens, all designed by Courtney, herself a professional landscape gardener. Elegant and extremely spacious, Lueur looks more like a
relaxation area. There is also the signature Mani & Pedi Room, where clients can select their own preferred music/ sounds. The retail area houses the Biologique Recherche Skin Instant© Lab, where skin diagnoses take place and the appropriate treatments and products are prescribed to clients. Dr Vranjes diffusers and candles, as well as Xyza Savanna ostrich bags, are available for retail. Other brands offered at Lueur include RègimA, Heliocare,
Technologies The centre boasts a wide array of aesthetics equipment, including the Tixel Skin Rejuvenation Device. This is a novel thermal fractional system powered by Novoxel’s patented technology. A Cutera system treats vascular conditions, while the Skin Classic direct high frequency machine removes skin lesions, milia, skin tags, etc. At the time of writing, Courtney was eagerly awaiting the arrival of the latest BBL (BroadBand Light) device, an extremely powerful IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) dermal renewal system.
DermaQuest, Dr Schrammek, LCN Spa, iS Clinical and Xymogen.
high end hotel than an aesthetics centre. Standout features include its blue and gold colour scheme, two large aquariums (inhabited by colourful tropical fish) at reception, as well as several waiting rooms and an outdoor
on hand at Lueur to draw blood for PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma) treatments and to administer vitamin drip injections. Lueur is about to launch five different vitamin drip plans.
Lueur has two resident doctors – Dr Eva Siolo, a plastic surgeon who does anti-ageing fat transfer treatments, and Dr Nooren Moti. The doctors operate from a separate treatment room at Lueur, which has its own entrance. “While we offer anti-ageing injectable treatments like toxins and dermal fillers, we are getting lots of consultations for the fat transfer treatments. These work really well as the body doesn’t reject its own fat,” explains Courtney. There is also a registered nurse
Courtney and her team of three full-time therapists are in the process of developing an entire wellness programme in conjunction with a homeopath – Dr Jaci Schultz. Lueur is able to offer spa days for birthdays, wedding parties etc and even has its own sushi chef. The property is also available to hire out as a venue on Sundays and Mondays. In conclusion, Courtney notes that Lueur is a fully womenrun practice and that she is in the process of creating a membership programme for clients.
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New Business Focus
Talking to… Jacqui Faucitt Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to RégimA founder, Jacqui Faucitt, about how this leading skincare brand has navigated the extreme challenges of 2020 and about the reasons for its longevity in the market How has RégimA coped with the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown? The RégimA team, including our in-house staff, distributors and reps, stayed positive throughout all stages. A number of the team worked from home for a while, but they were back in the saddle as soon as allowed. We are blessed that RégimA has several products with medical aid codes, so we had an essential goods licence to sell our flagship products from day one. This at least gave a lifeline to many salons and, when requested, we couriered products directly to their clients.
Have most of your stockists survived this trying time? Sadly, some salons closed, mainly those that were not given rent holidays. Most of our stockists have survived the ‘disaster’, with many coming out fighting, with sales soaring in some cases.
Stockists and their clients were hungry and anxious for normality and hit the ground running. We have also found that many new salons and spas throughout the country have been contacting us on a weekly basis to get on board, which is a fantastic sign for the future of our industry.
What sort of support have you provided for your stockists during lockdown and post lockdown? The fact that RégimA was able to continue providing products throughout the lockdown, which helped many stockists keep their heads above water, has been greatly appreciated. Social media presence was important, with at least twice weekly motivational and informative Facebook postings. One-on-one Zoom trainings were offered and when allowed, in-salon trainings were offered by RégimA distributors, who provided all important ideas
on how to upsell, particularly for nervous clients still remaining at home. Despite raw material prices for manufacturing rising between 20% to 50%, RégimA did not do an annual price increase, which has been greatly appreciated, helping both stockists and consumer.
We have found that many new salons and spas throughout the country have been contacting us on a weekly basis to get on board, which is a fantastic sign for the future of our industry. For how long has RégimA been in existence? RégimA celebrated 24 years
of changing lives this October. During all of these years, we have built an exemplary reputation for powerful treatments that therapists are proud of, assuring them that clients would continue to return and spreading the word. We are now ready for the next 24 years as we enter a new power phase with RégimA Medic, which will include Peel de Monaco - 80% Profond Exfolier. RégimA will excite professional taste buds and make 2021 a year to remember, for the very best reasons.
How has the beauty industry in South Africa changed since you first opened? On arriving in South Africa all those years ago, it was apparent that skin health was not near the top of the priority list, and for men to use a moisturiser was almost unheard of. Well, we had to change that, which was done by educating within the industry, reassuring, and removing the fear of therapists using very active products. With our focus on manufacturing, there has been a constant stream of innovation in active ingredients, allowing for exciting new product development on a regular basis, with continued improvement of existing products. South Africa is now definitely a skin treatment leader, not only here in our industry, but around the world.
something with lots of perfume in it? Oh no, I thought, and that was the birth of RégimA Scar Repair. Also, in the 1990s, deep medical laser was all the rage, however, there was no real aftercare, only petroleum jelly. Downtime from laser treatments was horrendous and people were suffering. That was the birth of RégimA Laser Azu-Repair ‘The Blue Gel’, which one of the plastic surgeons called his ‘life saver’, as well as that of his
With our focus on manufacturing, there has been a constant stream of innovation in active ingredients, allowing for exciting new product development on a regular basis. patients. He still uses it for every patient today.
How does RégimA differentiate itself in the market? When manufacturing, in order to change lives, one must focus on maximum clinical effectiveness
irrespective of cost, so RegimA utilises the highest percentage of actives providing therapists with the tools to solve each major skin problem. We have in excess of 5,000 stockists, including doctors, salons and spas.
I believe RégimA is a familyowned business? Yes, my Mom, Ada McDougall, and I started RégimA, working seven days a week, with my husband, Pete Faucitt, financing the dream, until he too joined the business. Once our son, Danny, finished studying for his degrees, he also became an integral part of the Faucitt vision. With a family sharing one goal, all determined and working extremely hard, the business succeeded, although one must sacrifice certain things along the way, such as holidays, for instance. Over the years the business has evolved into a hybrid decentralised structure of collaboration between many independent businesses, all working together in different parts of the supply chain. When one has a strong bond, there can be a very informal and practical approach that is resilient and deals with crisis fairly easily onthe-fly. Family equals security.
What originally prompted you to start RégimA? I wanted to change lives. The products available in South Africa 24 years ago were mainly from Europe, and not made to deal with our beautiful but harsh climate. Everyone seemed to dismiss skin health and thought problems only occurred with age. One day, whilst working with a plastic surgeon, I saw a 16-year-old girl who had had a skin cancer removed, which left a huge deficit on her cheek, and what was she going use,
The RégimA team online @ probeauty.co.za
22 You are originally from Manchester – how did you land up in South Africa? My cousin lived in Johannesburg and raved about the business opportunities in South Africa, which were there then, and remain today. If you have a passion for what you do and the will to achieve, as well as tenacity and the willingness to work hard, it can truly happen. If it happened for this girl from Manchester, who started with nothing, then success is out there waiting for you, but it is up to you to make it happen. South Africa is a most beautiful country, offering so many opportunities, especially in the beauty, hair, nails and makeup industries. Believe in yourself!
How has your nursing background helped you to develop formulations for your products? I was drawn to, and joined, the Red Cross, when I was only 14. After starting my career as a nurse, I went on to study medical science, human physiology and human disease. These all gave me a tremendous grounding in order for me to pursue my truelife passion – skin health – and wanting to change people’s lives for the better in my amazing new country. An enormous amount of constant research is required in this industry, and my background definitely helped me understand everything and realise that the
‘one product fits all’ approach does not work.
Please talk about your collaborations with medical doctors. Because of my vision of the more medical side of the industry such as treating scars, burns, acne, pigmentation and anti-ageing, RégimA was launched initially to plastic surgeons, anti-ageing doctors and laser clinics for the first five years. Demand grew as more and more therapists began working with doctors and wanting life-changing products. RégimA was then released to highly trained therapists who shared our passion for treating skins and making a difference and not just pampering. This approach helped many build their businesses, whilst RégimA has always remained a professional range, supporting therapists. The young burn victim, Pippie, who sustained horrific injuries some years ago from a braai accident, was helped tremendously by Yolandy Mouton, a dedicated RégimA distributor, as she regularly visited and supplied essential products to Pippie, helping her healing process and relieving her pain.
What are RégimA’s top three hero products? Scar Repair, Laser Azu-Repair ‘The Blue Gel’ and Power
Peels. These three products are award-winning and have healed every type of wound, whether traumatic, or operative, severe burns, or peeling ugly keloid scarring. It is not all about aesthetics, it is returning confidence, which is lifechanging. There is an amazing feeling when you really see the difference you make to lives.
You regularly win the Best Skincare Supplier category in the Professional Beauty Industry Awards. Please comment. As someone who has always been extremely competitive, I must admit I have been absolutely overwhelmed and proud of winning the awards. It is so important for the company and all associated with RégimA in South Africa and overseas. The primary focus of our efforts is ensuring the products have a genuine impact on real skin conditions, with a real impact on quality of life. The most rewarding thing of all is receiving feedback from clients who have life-changing results. Rather than competing for bigger, faster or cheaper, our emphasis has always been on achieving better results, and our focus on product effectiveness and quality is appreciated by the industry.
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win No matter how skilled your team, or how regular the client, the consultation should never be skipped or rushed. Hellen Ward explains why
’m a big fan of mystery shopping and tend to use it as a tool to not only see what other salons are delivering, but also to test the expertise and customer service of my own team. Furthermore, I also use it when there’s a performance problem. Let’s be honest, when was the last time any of us were salon customers? Sending someone to see a leading salon from a client’s perspective is a surefire way to get them to up their game, because sometimes all the coaching in the world is no substitute for experiencing the real thing. I’ve always managed by one principal; if your staff training is good enough, there’s no such thing as a bad treatment, merely a below-par consultation. Failing to truly engage with the customer and discover their own personal wish-list will always leave them wanting. And with competition so vast, there’s always a competitor who’s willing to go the extra mile
to discover and meet their needs, then exceed expectations, which remains the winning formula to ensure that crucial repeat business. You won’t be surprised to learn that we are being increasingly mystery shopped by other salon owners, and we’ve learnt some valuable lessons from what we’ve been told. A fellow salon owner sent two of his key staff to experience us as a leading brand, and they were disappointed, because of the lack of consultation. This error can be likened to going for an eye test only to find the optometrist had already diagnosed your sight before using any of the equipment to check. Imagine that – not having the air puffed into your eyes, not using the dots to check peripheral vision, not reading the letters out, and so on. Not explaining why the tests were being conducted and what they were looking for. Lessons were learnt and we’re re-training our hair stylists on
consultation skills and reminding all our team that they can never not explain eye colour, skin tone, texture, density and face shape. We’ve also alerted customers as a policy that if they come in on a Monday they won’t be seeing the salon at full pelt, as 90% of our 100-strong team take Monday as their day off (including our chef, so there’s no food available). Mondays for us are merely there to service our regulars, or for those who love a bit of peace and quiet. The fact was, we hadn’t really explained that before now, so learning from someone’s bad experience can only ever be a good thing.
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). email@example.com
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Tips Interveiw
The Top 5 critical priorities to focus on right now Marisa Dimitriadis outlines what owners and managers should be thinking about in this uncertain time It’s that last sprint to the end of the year. But how do we end off a year that has been unprecedented and completely thrown us off our tracks and strategies? The recovery begins now and that is exciting. However, it is during times like this that owners and managers start behaving like headless chickens, running all over the show and literally just surviving each day. The more organised and planned you are, the better the output. So, let’s look at five critical priorities that each salon/ spa owner and manager should concentrate on and, under no circumstances, let slip. 1. Knowing and measuring your numbers daily What does this mean exactly? It means that every morning your first task to complete is your Daily Business Analysis sheet and going through the numbers before you do anything else. Some of the numbers you should know daily include the following: number of clients through the door on that day; services revenue; retail revenue; retail ratio; average docket value per client; vouchers sold; unsold hours; training hours; promotions sold, etc. There is power in information and especially this type of information gives you a holistic overview of the day before and what the focus for
the following day or days should be, when you measure where you are according to the goals/ targets set. 2. Engage with your staff like never before The reality is that we are dealing with a mentally fragile workforce. It is difficult to know exactly what is going in each of your staff member’s mind, so besides implementing a simple wellness programme, as a manager you need to focus on three key areas
Clients want two things: results and an experience. Invest in something where those two outcomes are the main outcomes and your investment will fly. with your team. These are daily huddles, daily revenue planners and incentives and competitions, whether daily or weekly or monthly. The more focus, attention, love and direction you give your team, the better their output. Consistency is crucial here; there is no point implementing this routine and then
one day is missed here and there, as that gives mixed messages to staff, which does not result in efficiency. 3. Invest in growth Yes – now is the right time to invest in growth but in the right way. The growth you invest in at the moment needs to generate revenue, so I’m not referring to investing in a salon/ spa makeover with new interiors and gorgeous light fittings. That can wait. Clients want two things: results and an experience. Invest in something where those two outcomes are the main outcomes and your investment will fly. An example of such an investment is a new brand with treatments that create memories for clients, not just efficacy, but actual memories and experiences. I encourage local support right now to help South African brands survive and emerge from the COVID-19 pandemic. Look beyond the product itself too, look into marketing support, training, incentive partnering for your staff and ensure the brand resonates with your business.
Sonette Donker, Jane Wurwand, Cherie Ten Hope and Ilana Gush (circa 1998)
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There are some aesthetic-like treatments that are trending hugely right now that are entry level and can be done by a therapist without doctor supervision, such as dermaplaning, micro-needling, certain types of skin peeling, etc. The latest technology that is making massive consumer noise right now is microhydrabrasion with instant results and zero downtime. Investigate investing in these technologies, as this is what clients want and the investment is relatively low with excellent profit and quick ROI. 4. Ask your clients When last did you send out a survey? I am sure your last survey was about hygiene and sanitation protocols and to hear what services your clients most needed when coming out of lockdown. Well, it’s time to survey again and the title of the survey is: ‘Investing in growth – we value your opinion’. Here are a few tips. Don’t ask clients what they want because you will get hundreds of different
opinions. You, as the owner, should first allocate spend to the investment, then present the options that fall within that category of spend and decide as a team which ones are the top three.
Consumer behaviours are shifting, and we have another 12 to 18 months of this ahead of us as the world changes and economies recover. Only then do you put the survey out to your clients, asking which of the three they would most be interested in and, in that way, you get a streamlined decision. Create two or three permanent packages to cater for your ‘maintenance’ clients and ask them what they think about those packages, as you may find that this encourages them to buy a monthly package.
5. What do your online efforts look like? Have your online efforts slowed down? If yes, that is because you as the owner or manager have allowed them to slow down. I want to take you back to lockdown, to the time when you would do anything to get revenue and many of you did pivot your businesses, doing online orders and deliveries to clients and setting up an online shop. Consumer behaviours are shifting, and we have another 12 to 18 months of this ahead of us as the world changes and economies recover. One consumer behaviour to have shifted already (and will continue to do so) is online buying. So, will you get a piece of that online revenue? The decision is yours. Don’t relax your online efforts, in fact if you are in a growth mindset, you will put huge energy here as this is a revenue stream that does not need the skill of the therapist, stylist or nail technician, but rather just needs to offer a great shopping experience with efficient convenience. As we move towards the biggest spend day of the year – Christmas – are your Christmas online gift vouchers ready? Have you strategised how to promote them? Have you given yourself a goal/ target of what type of voucher revenue you want to generate? If not, get cracking right away, right now. As we begin to emerge out of this crisis, the ability of the manager to focus on what is critical and not get caught up in the daily little bits of time-wasters is more important than ever, as this will determine how quickly your business recovers.
Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. firstname.lastname@example.org
online @ probeauty.co.za
Cosmetic regulations in the
USA For South African beauty brands wanting to export their products in the USA, Tjaša Grum provides an introduction into the regulatory framework of that region Photo by Sharefaith from Pexels
In terms of legislation and product classification, cosmetic products sold in the USA are regulated by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). They must comply with the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and Fair Packaging and Labelling Act (FPLA). In addition, there are also some state-specific regulations, such as California Proposition 65 (Prop 65). The definition of a cosmetic product in the USA is different than in the EU, which means that some products may be cosmetics in the EU but not in the USA. The FD&C Act defines cosmetics as: ‘articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance’. It is important to add that the definition of a cosmetic product excludes soap. Cosmetic products in the USA are defined by
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Cosmetic products in the USA are defined by their intended use, taking into consideration claims, consumer perception and ingredients. A product can be classified as a cosmetic, a drug, or even both.
their intended use, taking into consideration claims, consumer perception and ingredients. A product can be classified as a cosmetic, a drug, or even both.
Product composition and safety Cosmetic products sold in the USA have to be safe and compliant with
the relevant regulations. Similar to Canada, the US regulations do not provide specific requirements on how to demonstrate the safety of the product and its ingredients. This remains in the hands of the manufacturers; they can choose how they will substantiate the safety of their products. The product should also be properly labelled as well as not include any prohibited ingredients and in the case of restricted ingredients, comply with the relevant restrictions, which are published by the FDA. It is important to add that although cosmetic products do not require pre-market approval by the FDA, all colour additives, other than colouring materials intended for use as coal-tar hair dyes, must be approved by the FDA in order to be used in cosmetic products. If the cosmetic product contains colour additives, those have to be found on the list of approved colour additives for use in cosmetics, which can be found on the FDA’s website.
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Labelling and claims
Although cosmetics sold in the USA do not require approval by the FDA, manufacturers, distributors or packers are encouraged to participate in the FDA’s Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP). panel and information panels. In order to comply with the labelling requirements, it is important to know which information has to be listed on certain panels. Additionally, for certain information, it is important to use the correct size of the lettering and to place it on the specific location of the packaging as required by the regulation. The following information has to appear on the principal display panel (PDP) i.e. the surface that is visible under customary conditions of sale. • Product name. • Product identity (the nature or use of the product). It can be expressed using a common or usual name of cosmetics, a descriptive name, illustration, or in cases where the nature of cosmetic is obvious, a fanciful name. • Net quantity of contents: using US customary units (fl., gal., fl. oz, oz., lb., etc.) • § 740.10 warning. If the safety of the product hasn’t been substantiated, the label has to
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The USA legislation has specific rules on where certain information has to appear on the label of the cosmetic product. In order to place the information where it should be, it is important to know the terms, such as the outer container and inner container. The outer container has a principal display panel (PDP), and information panels (IP), whereas the inner container has a front
include the following warning: ‘Warning – The safety of this product has not been determined’. Other information that needs to appear on the label. • Ingredient list: ingredients must be listed in descending order by concentration. Those ingredients with a concentration below 1% can be listed in any order after those with a concentration above 1%. Colour additives should be listed at the end and should be named as designated by the FDA (for example, D&C Green No. 5). Perfumes and flavours have to be listed as ‘fragrance’ and ‘flavor’. • Directions for safe use (where relevant). • Warning statements: if the use of products requires any warnings, they have to be listed on the label. • Name and place of business: the name and address of the manufacturer, packer or distributor. • Country of origin (for imported products). • Batch number (not a requirement but it is a common practice to include it). • The expiry date (not a requirement but cosmetic firms are responsible for the safety of their products). All required labelling information must be in English. The only exception is products distributed solely in a USA territory where a different language is predominant,
such as Puerto Rico.
Product notification Although cosmetics sold in the USA do not require approval by the FDA, manufacturers, distributors or packers are encouraged to participate in the FDA’s Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP). VCRP is an online postmarket reporting system, which means that the products can be registered only after they are already being sold in the USA. It should be added that the VCRP does not apply to cosmetics for professional use only or products, which are not for sale (e.g. hotel samples, free gifts, etc.).
Additional state regulations It is important to note that some states have additional state cosmetic regulations, such as Prop 65 in California. Prop 65 includes the list of chemicals which are known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. If products sold in California contain any of those ingredients, they need to include a ‘clear and reasonable’ warning on the labels. Tjaša Grum has a Bachelor’s degree in Cosmetic Science and a Master’s degree in Biochemistry from the University of Ljubljana, Slovenia. She is a Regulatory Consultant at CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd, which offers regulatory and testing services for cosmetic products. email@example.com
in the workplace
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If you want to grow into the wellness space, then your message to staff and clients should be clear – optimal health and wellness begins with a health-promoting way of eating and living, writes Mimmie Lancaster here is no doubt that we have been in a vulnerable place for more than half of the year due to the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown. On a personal level, it allowed most of us time for reflection and introspection, while on a business level, it forced us to come up with creative ideas and concepts to sustain our businesses and even more than that, allow for growth for each individual in our team. A positive outcome of COVID-19 is surely the fact that we, on the whole, have become more aware of each other’s needs. As wellness professionals, we are perfectly positioned to show we care and have a positive impact on the wellbeing of our co-workers and clients. In speaking to a variety of people – from educators to spa and salon owners, therapists and consumers alike – there are clear signs that there is a huge shift towards a
healthier way of living. For many of us, this has been a reality for quite some time now, and I trust that we have allowed not only our clients, but also our co-workers, to benefit from this reality. As business owners or managers, we know that change implemented at the top filters through the entire organisation. By slowly and steadily embracing the idea of conscious living, it will begin to take greater shape in your life, the life of your business, staff members and your clients’ lives. Conscious living involves making intentional decisions about the daily choices we make in life.
Nutrition principles I recently had the opportunity to work as part of the executive team at a wellness retreat, with doctors and scientists. This was a real eyeopener and great learning experience. The retreat’s food principals were geared towards true wellness,
hence all members of staff had to adhere to the no sugar, no gluten, no dairy, only natural, healthy food policy.
As business owners or managers, we know that change implemented at the top filters through the entire organisation. Because massage and body therapy was a big focus, we had to guard against inflammation in the wrists and backs of our massage therapists. A regular drink in the staff room consisted of hot water with fresh lemon and ginger. Snacks consisted of seasonal fruit, nuts and seeds. Pure, filtered water, infused with fruit and vegetables, formed part of the daily drinks. To ease the occasional headache, therapists knew that they could work with
cold marble stones on the neck and on pressure points. After a stressful day, I would encourage the team to walk bare foot in the labyrinth, or take a stroll outside during their lunch break. Supplements were sold as part of the retail offering and it was encouraging to see how most of the team would stock up on supplements themselves.
Workplace culture How do we build wellness into our work culture? While it may not be possible for your team to stroll outside or walk in a labyrinth, there are ways of encouraging stress relief and increasing movement. This includes bringing a Pilates ball into the staff room for therapists to sit on while doing their online product course, and encouraging staff to climb stairs (if there are any) instead of using the lift. Consider for a moment the type of drinks and snacks that are available in the kitchen for the staff, and what it is that you are serving your clients. Are you allowing your staff to come to work with foods that are processed, laden with chemicals and filled with sugar? Do you have alternative drinks apart from the usual coffees and teas available?
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Are you encouraging staff and your clients to drink water regularly? A great variety of anti-inflammatory foods to keep in the kitchen and serve as snacks or make meals of, include avocados and avocado
Take a good look at your retail offering – are you relevant in this area? Are you finding that you send business away by referring clients to health stores and pharmacies? oil, olive oil, raw nuts – especially almonds and pecans – seed mixtures, fresh, seasonal fruit, berries and baby vegetables. Fresh lemon, ginger and local honey, fresh mint leaves, Kombucha and even raw cacao could all form part of your drinks menu. Keep a bottle of cinnamon and add to a generous sprinkle to coffees served. Invest in a great water filtration system and place large jugs of fresh, filtered water, infused with vegeta-
bles and/or fruit, within easy access of your staff and guests. Enjoyment in the work place is a crucial part of a healthy, balanced life and will automatically affect the atmosphere within the salon or spa, the level of work performance and absenteeism. Take a moment to consider each member of your staff. How well do you know them? Are they positive about their work and colleagues? Are they happy and enjoying being at work? Or are they constantly struggling with health related issues and showing the effects of stress?
Knowledge and tools Some of the key factors for taking your business forward are to have knowledge and the tools to support it. Pin articles relevant to immunity, gut health, inflammation, stress relieving tips, the benefits of exercise and more up on the staff board and discuss this regularly. Take a good look at your retail offering – are you relevant in this area? Are you finding that you send business away by referring clients to health stores and pharmacies? We all know the benefits of collagen, probiotics and vitamin supplements, why not invest in this and broaden your offering? In dealing with a client last week, we decided that she should sell pure, filtered and bottled water as part of her offering. While the profit margins in this are not huge, it certainly drives the message home of drinking water regularly and, as an added bonus, acts as a marketing tool for her business.
Mimmie Lancaster is the owner of Symmetry World, which focuses on assessing the needs of businesses according to their core values, character and market level in order to improve their performance. Years of industry knowledge allows Lancaster to assist clients in honing their business output and productivity to optimum levels. firstname.lastname@example.org
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Lash and brow
Never before have the eye and brow area seemed more in focus than now, in this era of COVID-19 facial masks, where only the top third of the face is visible. Professional Beauty looks at some professional treatments geared to enhancing this part of the face. Lashes Although lash extensions have been around for many years, they have moved from underground experimentation, through highpriced celebrity craze, to a mainstream beauty treatment that has grown in popularity, at a rate of about 20% per year. So says Sonette van Rensburg
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of The Eyelash Emporium. She continues: “Since the first use of individual eyelash extensions in the early 2000’s, the treatment and products have been continually evolving, with many more variations available, in semi-permanent lash extension applications, and most recently, lash lift treatments. The possibilities of what you can achieve nowadays with lash treatments in terms of creating different looks, styles and effects, are endless. “Improved and more advanced products and training have helped minimise many of the problems that occurred in earlier years with the application of lash extensions, and is now being accepted as a far more safe and sustainable treatment. Lash extensions shouldn’t damage your lashes, especially when a properly trained and skilled lash technician is applying them and the best quality professional products are used.”
Van Rensburg notes that it all began with the traditional Classic individual lash-on-lash semipermanent extension. “Applying individual lashes one at a time onto the natural lashes is the foundation of lashing and a technique that offers a gorgeous flutter of natural looking lashes. Semi-permanent lashes are available in different curls, lengths and thicknesses and can be created to look as natural as your own, or as dramatic as you want. “A newer technique, which is much more difficult to master and quite an art, is the Russian Volume xD lashes. This is a big-impact technique that piles on the volume without stressing the natural lashes, allowing greater creative options by mastering fans for one single lash, providing a really wow jaw-dropping look. It is perfect for clients with naturally sparse or thin lashes that are not suitable for the Classic individual treatment.
Advanced styling options are also available for creating a more rebellious, dark eyeliner and uniform volume look or even a perfectly pretty, full volume wispy look, which is particularly favoured by celebs and their followers.
Lash extensions shouldn’t damage your lashes, especially when a properly trained and skilled lash technician is applying them and the best quality professional products are used. Then there are lash extensions that will help cut down your application and volume treatment time. Silver Screen Fast-fanning lashes create a ready made fan with as many lashes as you need and that
self fan and stay together as you pick them up, creating an intense look with colour depth from root to tip . Another option are Pre-made fans, available in C and D Curls 3D, 4D, 5D and 6D in short and long base fans. Fused technology creates a light weight natural looking fan, giving maximum impact to a variety of eye shapes and lash profiles, adding depth and definition to volume or hybrid lash sets. A more recent addition to The Eyelash Emporium’s lash extension range are XPL lashes, an express lash treatment that uses a mix of individual lashes, fans and a professional lash adhesive that gives your client 7-10 days wear. Clients can choose from a timeless classic natural look, to more gorgeous glamorous looking lashes. says van Rensburg: “The Natural & Glam Lash Bundles are perfect for creating an express look in a matter of no time and is perfect for beginners new to lashing and who require a little help
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with mapping out different looks.” She explains that creating a good set of lashes will depend on the client’s natural eye shape and lash type. Eyelashes are divided into three categories, which will dictate the length and weight of the eyelash extension used, in relation to the client’s natural lashes, to prevent any strain on the bond and the natural eyelash. “During consultation, the length and strength of the client’s natural lashes need to be assessed before choosing the thickness and length of the lash extension. This is to ensure that the correct lashes suited to her
Brow n o i t a n i Lam
Make your eyebrows look instantly thicker & fuller! Style, shape, lift & secure your brows with a semi-permanent brow lift treament by RefectoCil.
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32 are selected and applied. Generally the thickness is recommended to only go up one to two thicknesses to avoid them from being too heavy, which could cause them to drop off or twist. The same goes for the length; if lashes that are too long are applied to a natural lash that is very short and weak, it will not hold or could break,” concludes Van Rensburg. All products in The Eyelash Emporium range are sourced from top quality, EC-approved materials. Lash extensions made from PBT, an advanced polymer that is super soft, like and silky, yet tough enough to hold their curl. A selection of the best, medical grade adhesives are available and are formaldehyde and latex free.
gently glued onto a shaped silicone pad. This creates a straight lifting effect of the eyelashes from the base. Particularly short eyelashes would appear much longer after an
RefectoCil before and after
application. To achieve a total look, dye the lashes immediately on the silicone pad for only two minutes Lift or curl? with one of the eight RefectoCil If your client is not blessed with eyelash tint colours.” endless eyelashes, you can raise For more natural eyelashes, them with an eyelash lift, according Vermeer recommends an eyelash to Pieter Vermeer of RefectoCil. curl. He continues: “The desired curl He says: “The eyelashes are to enhance the appearance of the eye is created by using the appropriate size cylindrical roller. Eyelashes can be tinted immediately after this treatment in only two minutes due to the already porous cuticle layer.” During both treatments, collagen and cysteine will pamper the lashes. Afterwards, you can treat your client to a massage of the eye area, using the moisturising Experienced thicker, stronger, longer and nourishing looking lashes RefectoCil Skin In just 8 WEEKS Protection Cream and Eye
DERMATOLOGIST & OPHTHALMOLOGIST TESTED T TEST O
Mask. For a long lasting and wellgroomed result, finish by applying RefectoCil Styling Gel. Both treatments can be offered in the exclusive ambience of a professional salon. Results last up to six weeks, depending on the individual’s lash growth cycle.
online @ probeauty.co.za Contains BIOTIN (Pro-vitamin B7 / Vitamin H / Coenzyme R). An essential factor in maintaining beautiful, voluminous appearance of stronger-looking lashes.
RapidLash® is a multi award-winning innovative high performance eyelash enhancing serum, which uses the exclusive Hexatein® 1 Complex formula for lashes that are longer, stronger, fuller, thicker and healthier looking. According to a consumer study of 102 subjects over 56 days, 86% experienced longer-looking and fuller-looking lashes in eight weeks. Hexatein® 1 Complex is a scientifically advanced blend of polypeptides, replenishing amino acids, nourishing pumpkin seed extract, and highly beneficial biotin and panthenol, that helps fortify, hydrate and nurture lashes. This blend, exclusive to RapidLash®, helps promote lash durability, shine, sheen and overall healthier-looking appearance of eyelashes. Polypeptides help protect against breakage, while biotin (pro-vitamin B7 / vitamin H), is an essential factor in maintaining healthier-looking, youthful lashes. Panthenol (vitamin B5) helps coat the lashes and seal in moisture and nourishment for improved overall appearance. The protein structure of lashes is boosted by amino acids, and soybean oil, which is rich in vitamins, helps impart sheen and lustre to lashes, making them appear lush and beautiful.
Flagship product Working in the beauty industry for over 20 years, the founders of EyEnvy recognised the issues women and men were having with the growth of their eyelashes and eyebrows due to various reasons, including illness. Says Gail Minnot of EyEnvy SA: “EyEnvy is our flagship product and produces great results. This eyelash and eyebrow growing serum is considered one of the best
on the market. Our feedback has been phenomenal – a 59% growth in 2019 alone, with TV and radio having highlighted our success. We also have a great range of add-on products to complement this range.” The EyEnvy team had a mission to focus on salon exclusivity specific to the salon market, allowing technicians, estheticians and professionals in the beauty industry to get their hands on quality products and thus share them with their beloved customers.
Brow serum RapidBrow® is an innovative eyebrow enhancing serum with the exclusive Hexatein® 2 Complex formula that conditions and enhances the appearance of brows. This product is formulated with Hexatein® 2 Complex, a perfectly balanced mix of potent polypeptides, highly effective keratin, biotin and panthenol, and revolutionary apple fruit cell extract, that helps revitalise, invigorate
and condition brows. This blend, unique to RapidBrow®, helps promote more youthful-looking and lush eyebrows. Keratin, a building block of hair, helps boost the protein structure and enhance healthier-looking brows, while apple fruit cell extract is a revolutionary anti-ageing ingredient from stem cells of a rare Swiss apple, that helps rejuvenate the youthful appearance of brows. Sweet almond extract, a rich emollient, helps add shine, sheen and softness to brow hair.
Brow lamination The GDL Brow Lamination Treatment, offered by The Eyelash
Emporium, is in line with the biggest current brow grooming trend. This is a quick and easy low maintenance treatment with amazing results that shapes and sculpts the brows. Two processes make up this treatments, namely lifting and straightening the hairs to provide length, and shape and tinting for definition. The Imbalie Beauty Group agrees that brow lamination helps to shape and lift unruly brows. Its Placecol, Perfect 10 and Dream Nails salons use a keratin based formulation to perform the brow lamination, which adds the benefits of strengthening the hairs. These salons note that the Henna brow treatment is also gaining huge popularity, as it stains both the skin and the hair, making it an alternative to normal tinting.
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lthough therapists are not doctors and therefore cannot prescribe medications, they should be able to recognise commonly found skin conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis and rosacea. Leading dermatologist, Dr Lushen Pillay, unpacks each of these Eczema Dermatitis refers to a group of itchy inflammatory conditions characterised by epidermal changes and affects about one in every five people at some time in their lives. It results from a variety of different causes and has various patterns. The terms dermatitis and eczema are often used interchangeably. In some cases, the term eczematous dermatitis is used. Dermatitis can be acute, or chronic, or both. Acute eczema refers to a rapidly
evolving red rash, which may be blistered and swollen. Chronic eczema refers to a longstanding, irritable area. It is often darker than the surrounding skin, thickened (lichenified) and much scratched. An in-between state is known as subacute eczema. Psychological stresses can provoke or aggravate eczema, presumably by suppressing normal immune mechanisms.
Types of eczema Atopic eczema is particularly prevalent in children; inherited
factors seem important, as there is nearly always a family history of dermatitis or asthma. Irritant contact dermatitis is provoked by body fluids, handling water, detergents, solvents or harsh chemicals, and by friction. Irritants cause more trouble in those who have a tendency to atopic dermatitis.
Psychological stresses can provoke or aggravate eczema, presumably by suppressing normal immune mechanisms. Allergic contact dermatitis is due to skin contact with substances that most people donâ€™t react to, most commonly nickel, perfume, rubber, hair dye or preservatives.
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A dermatologist may identify the responsible agent by patch testing. Dry skin, especially on the lower legs, may cause asteatotic dermatitis, also called eczema craquele. Nummular dermatitis (also called ‘discoid eczema’) may be set off initially by an injury to the skin: scattered coin-shaped irritable patches persist for a few months.
Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterised by clearly defined, red and scaly plaques (thickened skin). Seborrhoeic dermatitis and dandruff are due to irritation from toxic substances produced by Malassezia yeasts that live on the scalp, face and sometimes elsewhere. Infective dermatitis seems to be provoked by bacterial infection or fungal infection. Stasis dermatitis arises on the lower legs of older people, due to swelling and poorly functioning leg veins. Meyerson naevus is dermatitis that affects moles.
Treatment An important aspect of treatment is to identify and tackle any contributing factors. Bathing: reduce how often you bathe or shower and use lukewarm water (showers are better). Replace standard soap with a mild detergent, soap-free cleanser. Clothing: wear soft smooth cool clothes; coarse fibres (wool or synthetic) are best avoided (microfine merino wool may be suitable). Irritants: protect your skin from incontinence, dust, water, solvents, detergents and injury.
Emollients: Apply an emollient liberally and often, particularly after bathing. When itchy, avoid perfumed products. Topical steroids: apply a topical steroid cream or ointment (prescribed by a doctor or dermatologist) to the itchy patches for a five to 15-day course. Steroids should usually be applied once or twice daily to the red and itchy areas only. Calcineurin inhibitors: they are part of an anti-inflammatory cream shown to be very effective for atopic dermatitis mantenance, with fewer side effects than topical steroids. Antibiotics: can be used if infection is complicating or causing dermatitis. The infection is most often with Staphylococcus aureus or Streptococcus pyogenes. Eczema is often a long-term problem. When you notice your skin getting dry, moisturise your skin again and carefully avoid the use of soap. If the itchy rash returns, use both the moisturiser and the steroid cream or ointment. If it fails to improve within two weeks, see your doctor for further advice.
Psoriasis Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterised by clearly defined, red and scaly plaques (thickened skin). It is classified as an immunemediated inflammatory disease (IMID). This condition affects 2–4% of males and females. It can start at any age including childhood, with peaks of onset at 15–25 years and 50–60 years. Psoriasis tends to persist lifelong, fluctuating in extent and severity. It is particularly common in Caucasians but may affect people of any race. About one-third of patients with psoriasis have family members with psoriasis.
Genetic factors are important. An individual’s genetic profile influences their type of psoriasis and its response to treatment. Psoriasis usually presents with symmetrically distributed, red, scaly plaques with well-defined edges. The scale is typically silvery white, except in skin folds where the plaques often appear shiny and they may have a moist peeling surface. The most common sites are scalp, elbows and knees, but any part of the skin can be involved. The plaques are usually very persistent without treatment. Itch is mostly mild but may be severe in some patients, leading to scratching and lichenification (thickened leathery skin with increased skin markings). Painful skin cracks or fissures may occur.
Aggravating factors The following factors can aggravate psoriasis: Streptococcal tonsillitis and other infections, cuts, abrasions, sunburn, obesity, smoking, excessive alcohol, stress, and medications (such as lithium, beta-blockers, anti-malarials and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories).
Treatment Patients with psoriasis should ensure they are well informed about their skin condition and how
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to treat it. There are benefits from not smoking, avoiding excessive alcohol and maintaining optimal weight. Mild psoriasis is generally treated with topical agents alone. Which treatment is selected may depend on body site, extent and severity of psoriasis. Topical solutions include emollients, coal tar preparations, dithranol, salicylic acid, vitamin D analogue, topical corticosteroids, a combination calcipotriol/ betamethasone dipropionate ointment/ gel or foam and phototherapy. Moderate to severe psoriasis warrants treatment with a systemic agent and/ or phototherapy.
Rosacea Rosacea is a chronic rash involving the central face that most often starts between the ages of 30 and 60. It is common in those with fair skin, blue eyes and Celtic origins. It may be transient, recurrent or persistent and is characterised by its red colour. Although once known as acne rosacea, this is incorrect, as it is unrelated to acne. There are several theories
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regarding the causes of rosacea, including genetic, environmental, vascular and inflammatory factors. Skin damage due to chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation plays a part. The skinâ€™s innate immune response appears to be important, as high concentrations of anti-microbial peptides such as cathelicidins have been observed in rosacea. The condition may be aggravated by facial creams or oils. Rosacea results in red spots (papules) and sometimes pustules. They are dome-shaped rather than pointed and unlike acne, there are no blackheads, whiteheads or nodules. Rosacea may also result in red areas, scaling and swelling. Characteristics of rosacea include frequent blushing or flushing; a red face due to persistent redness and/
There are several theories regarding the causes of rosacea, including genetic, environmental, vascular and inflammatory factors. or prominent blood vessels (telangiectasia); red papules and pustules on the nose, forehead, cheeks and chin often follow (inflammatory or papulopustular rosacea); and in rare cases, the trunk and upper limbs may also be affected. Other characteristics are dry and flaky facial skin; aggravation by
sun exposure and hot and spicy food or drink; burning and stinging on sensitive skin; red, sore or gritty eyelid margins including papules and styes; sore or tired eyes; and enlarged unshapely nose with prominent pores.
Treatment Where possible, reduce factors causing facial flushing and avoid oil-based facial creams. Never apply a topical steroid to the rosacea as although short-term improvement may be observed (vasoconstriction and anti-inflammatory effect), it makes the rosacea more severe over the next weeks. Protect yourself from the sun. Use light oil-free facial sunscreens. Keep your face cool to reduce flushing. Minimise your exposure to hot or spicy foods, alcohol, hot showers and baths, and warm rooms. Oral antibiotics for rosacea may be prescribed by your doctor or dermatologist. In terms of topical treatments, metronidazole cream or gel can be used intermittently or long-term on its own for mild inflammatory rosacea and in combination with oral antibiotics for more severe cases. Azelaic acid cream or lotion is also effective for mild inflammatory rosacea, applied twice daily to affected areas. Persistent telangiectasia can be successfully improved with vascular laser or intense pulsed light treatment.
Dr Lushen Pillay is a specialist dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon at Helen Joseph Hospital, where he is also the head of the Dermatology department. He lectures at Wits University and completed his undergraduate degree at the University of Pretoria, and then completed the fellowship in Dermatology, FC Derm (SA), as well as a Masters (MMed) in Dermatology through Wits University. Pillay has won various research awards and has a special interest in facial aesthetics.
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psoriasis, eczema and rosacea
As psoriasis, eczema and rosacea are fairly common skin conditions found on salon clients, therapists should have a working knowledge of what skincare products and ingredients may help to alleviate the situation Environ South African founded skincare brand, Environ, is careful to not advise that its products are ‘cures’ for conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and rosacea, which are medical skin conditions. Says Environ’s Dr Des Fernandes: “We usually advise the consumer to get a medical diagnosis to determine exactly what the condition is, from which point we can then support with the topical application of the correct vitamins, antioxidants, moisturisers etc. “Inflammation is
one of the problems we see when the skin barrier is compromised, leading to red, itchy, angry and scaly-looking skin. The problem is that this type of skin (usually because its natural vitamin A is depleted), tends to react to cosmetics. This is especially true of active formulations.” For eczema and psoriasis, Environ’s philosophy is to gradually introduce the pre-cursor of vitamin A, Beta-Carotene, with the support of antioxidants to help strengthen and fight free-radical damage. The brand recommends Comfort+ Antioxidant Gel and Colostrum Gel as a powerful duo for daily use. For people with scaly psoriasis, Environ recommends the application of the Derma-Lac Lotion. In terms of rosacea, Dr Fernandes has researched and developed a special treatment where the skin
is professionally peeled with a gentle Cool Peel, and vitamin A, C & E Body Oil in combination with the daily application of DermaLac Lotion. “We have had a 100% success rate when following this protocol. Therapists need to attend Environ Professional Education in order to offer Cool Peels,” states Dr Fernandes.
Doctor Babor Doctor Babor Neuro Sensitive Cellular is a neuro-cosmetic range to treat very sensitive, reactive and extremely dry skin, as well as itchiness. This neuro-cosmetic skin range is suitable to accompany the treatment of atopic dermatitis. The Doctor Babor Neuro Sensitive Cellular Intensive Calming Cream is formulated to care for dry, sensitive and
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eczema-prone skins. It contains an active complex known as neuroxyl alongside evening primrose oil and microsilver. This soothing moisturiser relieves redness, reduces discomforting sensations, such as itching, and gives the skin a pleasant feeling. It can be used to heal skin in-between eczema flare-ups and is suitable for the treatment of dry, irritated skin in the eye area/ eyelids. Doctor Babor’s Neuro Sensitive Cellular Intensive Calming Cleanser contains neuroxyl and microsilver and offers an antimicrobial benefit and reduces skin irritation, while emollients offer a soothing effect. Neuro Sensitive Cellular Intensive Calming Cream Rich is formulated to care for very dry, sensitive and eczema-prone skins. It is formulated with neuroxyl, microsilver and gamma-linolenic acid.
constant hydration. Ingredients include tocopherol, a source of vitamin E that plays an important role by protecting both the skin and the products against harmful free radicals and functions as a natural moisturiser, capable of reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is the extract from liquorice root. This is well known as a wound healing extract, helping to reduce irritation within the skin and providing instant comfort to sensitive skin. For rosacea, Beauté Pacifique recommends Submersive Serum Paradoxe, a product that is based on high concentrations of both squalane and the Chilean grape seed extract, which has ‘near’ medical properties, as in the brand’s Crème Paradoxe, but reformulated into a super-serum that submerges deeply into the skin, providing a strong anti-age effect and remarkable anti-reddening effect on rosacea-looking skin.
Dermalogica The UltracalmingTM segmentation line from Dermalogica uses a blend of active botanical extracts to calm and sooth inflammation and skin irritation. These products contain an UltraCalmingTM Complex, consisting of active botanical extracts such as avena sativa (oat kernel) extracts,
Beauté Pacifique For psoriasis and eczema, Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, suggests X-Tra Dry Skin Fix, an extremely moisturising and repairing medical grade cream that helps maintain a high level of moisture continuously throughout the day. It contains a high concentration of natural squalene, leaving a deposit of cream inside the skin’s surface, which is reactivated by contact with water to lock in moisture and maintain
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boerhavia diffusa (red hogweed) root extract, zingiber officinale (ginger) extract and bisabolol (derived from chamomile). Says Dermalogica training
expert, Lusinda Burch: “Modern studies have proved the benefits of and shown that colloidal oatmeal binds to the skin and provides a protective barrier against irritants. It contains waterbinding polysaccharides and hydrocolloids that hold moisture against the skin, allowing it to act as an emollient. The lipids contained in oatmeal also add to its emollient activity, which can improve the itchiness of dry skin. Oatmeal acts as a buffering agent that can help maintain the skin’s normal pH. The soothing properties of colloidal oatmeal have also been recognised for many years. “Piperonyl glucoside is a new molecule that prevents flushing from occurring and helps reduce skin sensitivity due to changes in climate and dietary related stress. It also visibly reduces persistent skin redness. This molecule impacts the blood vessel network, to visibly reduce redness by strengthening blood vessels to minimise vasodilation linked to redness.”
Diego dalla Palma The Stop Red Ampoule from Diego dalla Palma Professional is an intensive anti-redness concentrate suitable for sensitive, reactive, cuperose-prone or delicate skin irritated by external aggressors. Its soft and gentle formula provides an immediate sensation of comfort and gradually improves skin quality and appearance. In terms of ingredients, the biomimetic ceramide cpx 4% balances and strengthens the skin’s barrier function, protecting it against external aggressors, while avenanthramide D 0.04% relieves the skin and reduces both temporary and persistent redness. Also from Diego dalla Palma, the CICA Ceramides Cream is an anti-reddening, soothing, repairing and rebalancing cream with chromo-corrective green
pigments. It is ideal for rebalancing irritated and vulnerable skin due to external aggressors and intensive cosmetic and dermo-aesthetic treatments (e.g. clinical peelings and microdermabrasion, laser, tattoos). Thanks to tiger grass (with repairing and reepilising properties), enriched with horsechestnut, ruscus and marigold extracts (natural source of bioflavonois, with vasoprotector and anti-reddening properties), the product reduces temporary or persistent redness and cuperose.
RégimA RégimA Anti-Inflamm-Ageing is a highly effective, ultra-rich ‘First
DermaFix A lightweight emollient cleanser, DermaFix HydraSilk Cleanser gently lifts away makeup and other impurities without stripping the essential lipids on the skin. Providing anti-inflammatory and skin calming properties, this cream cleanser is suitable for sensitised skin including rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis. DermaFix Vitamin B Cream incorporates a complex of natural botanical extracts, vitamins and amino acids alongside natural Vitamin B complex, helping to reduce inflammation and balance the skin. The inclusion of D-panthenol stimulates skin healing, whilst providing deep moisturisation to help combat skin sensitivity. Formulated with pure Swiss hemp CBD, DermaFix CBD Oil and DermaFix CBD Lotion assist to provide skin nourishment and hydration benefits. These products have proven to be beneficial in assisting to calm inflammation, reducing redness and minimising the skin reactivity often associated with these problematic skin concerns.
The Silver Healing Gel is most suited for open wounds and inflamed skin with its soothing and cooling capabilities, while the Silver Healing Cream provides extra nourishment with added avo oil to help to reduce excessive dryness.
Aid’ Kit for inflamed, irritated, or extremely sensitive skins. This product reduces warmth due to inflammation and protects against skin redness on irritation. It also reduces the incidence of telangiectasia and cuperose (broken veins) and improves the appearance of rosacea. In addition, this super soothing and smoothing cream reduces swelling and includes anti-itch properties. It helps to normalise and maintain hypersensitive skins.
SkinPhD From SkinPhD, the Silver Healing Gel and Silver Healing Cream are formulated with ionic colloidal silver in its most safe and effective nanoparticale ionic form. It has been proven to combat hyperinflammation associated with skin diseases like psoriasis and eczema. Ionic colloidal silver helps to improve the healing process by enhancing the skin’s immune system. It assists in fighting microbial infections and improving the skin’s immune response to reduce inflammation, while preserving the skin’s natural biome and barrier.
Pro-Heal® Serum Advance+® from iS Clinical is very effective in addressing the appearance of dry and sensitive skin types that suffer from rosacea. The product provides superior antioxidant protection and includes ascorbic acid, olive leaf extract, mushroom extract, Laureth-4, tocopherol and retinol. Also from iS Clinical, the Sheald™ Recovery Balm is a smooth moisture-rich formula that is designed for all skin types, especially those that are severely dehydrated, sensitive or have been compromised.
SalonCare SalonCare recommends fragrance- and colourant-free products that contain humectants to comfort and moisturise the skin. Suitable products from the SalonCare range include Sensitive Cream Cleanser; UV Protective Moisturiser (with a low level SPF to avoid irritation); Sensitive Enriched Nightcare (for nourishing and hydration); Sensitive Face &
Body (formulated to comfort and nourish); and Sensitive Spritzer for rosacea or skin that is prone to redness or experiences warm flushes.
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Business Trends Hair News
Crowning Glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front Glossy locks Authentic Beauty Concept Indulging Fluid Oil suits all hair types, enhancing the hairâ€™s natural beauty with a multitude of benefits. Formulated with Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, this product can be applied onto the hair easily, without feeling greasy. It seals split ends, boosts shine and conditions when applied to damp or dry hair â€“ for a high-gloss, smooth finish.
011 617 2464
Beat the heat The label.m Fashion Edition Heat Protection Mist is a multi-functional styling mist, created to dry rapidly, resist humidity and provide hold with natural movement for up to 24 hours. It is enriched with strengthening ProVitamin B-5 for a softer, smoother finish. Suitable for damp or dry hair, the mist is ideal for use before heat styling as it offers protection up to 240 degrees Centigrade.
021 448 8847
Vibrant hues Color Reload from Silky Technobasic Professional provides direct colouring without ammonia to revive your colour between salon treatments and hide any regrowth. It brings life back to highlights and intensifies the natural colour, as well as reinvigorating and moisturising the hair. The result is very natural.
021 981 0032
Bare essentials Earth-friendly and plastic free, the be.bare haircare range is made with naturally derived ingredients. It was founded by two young South Africans out of a desire to empower people to make greener, more ethically-minded choices in their daily personal care regimes. Made without water and vegan- and cruelty-free, be.bare comprises Shampoo Bars and Conditioner Bars.
063 859 3373
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In the market
Our round-up of new products and treatments
Up that Collagen Beauté Pacifique’s La Forte Collagen Booster is a nutriceutical complement to its medical grade skincare line. This patented supplement contains extracts from fish and rooibos, as well as higher dosage vitamin A and zinc gluconate. It protects against oxidative stress, with vitamin C contributing to normal collagen formation and vitamin E for optimal moisturisation.
073 053 8830
Versatile Oil The Diego dalla Palma All-In-One Multitasking Oil with organic rosehip oil has an elasticising, repairing, nourishing and moisturising effect on the skin, with a fast-absorbing texture that instantly leaves a feeling of hydration and wellbeing. It is suitable for hyper-sensitive skin and children and contains oily mistletoe extract, argan oil, monoi oil and jojoba, among many other oils.
021 701 2900
Feels like velvet From RVBLAB The Make-Up comes the Matt & Velvet Lipstick collection in 10 highly pigmented colours with a matte finish. An innovative texture ensures a flawless application and excellent comfort. Smooth, moisturied and protected lips are thanks to the inclusion of magnolia and vitamin E in the formulation.
Borne from a desire to offer South African families a comprehensive herbal skincare solution, BioSeal combines some of nature’s most exceptional gifts. Mostly vegan friendly and free of parabens and sulphates, all BioSeal products are made using herbal ingredients that possess excellent healing and soothing properties.
073 414 4185
021 701 2900
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Tightening the intimate area
Non-surgical vaginal rejuvenation using energy- and light-based machines has become an increasingly popular treatment at aesthetic clinics. Here we look at some leading systems on the market
Child-bearing, hormonal changes due to menopause, weight fluctuations and the simple process of ageing leads to laxity in the female genitalia. Light- and energy-based devices can be used for skin tightening purposes in the area and to stimulate collagen.
Functional Magnetic Stimulation Iskra Medical, a Slovenian medical company founded in 1992, invented the ground breaking technology known as Electromagnetic Stimulation – later renamed to Functional Magnetic Stimulation or FMS. The FMS propagates through clothing, skin and bone and penetrates deep into the muscle
and causes deep and constant muscular contractions which follow the exact parameters of the FMS treatment – as many as 50,000 contractions per 30-minute session. The strength and frequency of the contractions engender tightening, firming and strengthening of the area being targeted. Thus the Tesla FMS chair, distributed by Radiant Healthcare, has been specifically designed for vaginal rejuvenation. Tesla FMS treatments are carried out with the patient fully clothed and can be done twice a week for a course of four treatments, depending on the severity of the condition being treated. Treatments are also painless and can be carried out with or without the help of a therapist. There are no consumables required.
fibres of the pelvic floor and lower back. An electrical field is created through induction, which depolarises the motor nerves online @ probeauty.co.za
FemiLift from Alma Lasers is a versatile platform, enabling medical practitioners to treat various feminine indications quickly and effectively. Procedures are conducted in an outpatient setting and do not involve general anaesthesia or downtime. The FemiLift has a variety of hand pieces that get plugged onto Alma’s Pixel CO₂ device (option of a 30W or 70W device). Vaginal rejuvenation and laxity, vaginal dryness and labia tightening are just a few of the different indications that doctors will be
able to treat using the Femilift. Says Nicola Steenkamp of Femilift distributor, Best Lasers: “The device can be safely used on all skin types with little to no side effects. FemiLift harnesses the power, precision and versatility of CO₂ laser technology to offer four energy delivery modes and a wide array of dedicated applicators. It boasts a global presence of doctors and specialists who use this device. At Best Lasers we have been privileged enough to expand the Femilift footprint into South Africa, Zimbabwe and Sub-Saharan African countries. We include full training, delivery and
installation. You will receive your certification and site licence with the purchase of this device.”
Fractional procedure The Gynelase™ fractional CO2 laser vaginal rejuvenation procedure is a good alternative to surgery in less advanced pelvic floor dysfunction. This revolutionary platform combines the photothermal power of the CO2 laser with the delicacy needed in a so sensitive area as the inside of the vagina. A Gynelase™ procedure is easy to perform, painless, fast, subablative and minimally invasive. This bloodless treatment needs no hospitalisation, has no downtime, and requires no anaesthesia. Typically a patient will undergo two to three 15-minute treatments, six weeks apart to achieve the desired results. During the treatment, a sterilised applicator is moved along the vaginal wall in an outward motion. Laser energy
is delivered 360° onto the vagina walls and on its circumference through a quick and precise application, covering the entire area. The laser energy is deposited in an orderly and completely homogenous way. As the laser impacts are fractional (i.e. a random dot matrix method and
not a stamped method), it allows for healthy tissue between laser impacts, and thus a rapid recovery of the mucosa. The treatment achieves vaginal tissue contraction and tightening through the controlled and highly precise photothermal effect of the interaction of laser light with the tissue. This thermal effect causes a denaturalisation of collagen and the body reacts by producing more collagen (neocollagenesis) and in a greater measure than there was before.
Dual technologies Introduced in 2012 to treat vulvovaginal conditions, MonaLisa Touch®, which runs on DEKA’s SmartXide Touch system, boasts a new bipolar RF Touch hand piece, making it possible to expand the treatable conditions. Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers explains that MonaLisa Touch® offers two technologies in one system, namely CO2 Laser and bipolar RF (radiofrequency). “The laser energy to the vaginal walls is provided in a fractional mode, meaning that only a small percentage of vaginal tissue is directly affected by the laser. “The exclusive Hi-Scan V2LR full-
angle applicator emits laser energy in a 360° manner, which ensures quick, perfect and even treatments that are easily duplicated over different sessions. With five different types of probes – including a 360° disposable probe – MonaLisa Touch can address the specific and/or anatomic needs of individual patients.” A single use hand piece, the RF Touch adds a complementary tightening treatment to the CO2 laser; a deeper stimulation of the connective vaginal mucosa, improving all the problems related to non-atrophic flabby tissues such as SUI and Vulvo-Vaginal laxity. MonaLisa Touch® is the only laser therapy fully recognised by International Scientific Community and supported by more than 50 international scientific publications.
A 360-degrees approach The Ultra Femme 360™ is described by manufacturer, BTL, as a great option for women who desire non-surgical improvement of their intimate health. Says Branislav Sucansky of BTL South Africa: “The Ultra Femme 360™ provides a safe and effective treatment that can work wonders comfortably, with no downtime. It uses radiofrequency and ultrasound energy to gently heat the vaginal tissues, which increases blood flow, stimulates collagen and elastin production and causes the tissues to tighten. “This non-surgical treatment can be used to treat both the interior and exterior vaginal tissues for a complete rejuvenation of the vaginal area. The Intravaginal treatment takes eight minutes, while the external treatment is based on your specific needs, and usually takes less than 12 minutes.” He notes that the recommended number of treatment sessions is three, scheduled once a week. This treatment tightens and tones the vaginal tissues for an improvement in sexual pleasure and function, mild urinary incontinence, vaginal dryness and laxity, and cosmetic appearance.
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Aesthetic Medicine Business Trends
Rejuvenation in Reverse
A new trend in the aesthetics sector is seeing millennials actively seek antiageing skin treatments as a preventative measure, writes Karen Ellithorne appear before acting on their skincare treatments, they prefer to be proactive. They are already starting to incorporate prerejuvenation treatments and skincare products from their early 20s and 30s to assist with maintaining their youthful appearance for longer. The benefit of this philosophy is that it is much easier to slow down the signs of ageing then to
Millennials’ approach to skincare is that instead of waiting for fine lines and wrinkles to appear before acting on their skincare treatments, they prefer to be proactive.
Photo by Vinicius Altava from Pexels
aking care of your skin from a young age can assist with your youthful appearance for many years to come. We have all heard the term ‘skin rejuvenation’ and this simply defines any treatment or product that makes the skin look and feel better. This term can cover a plethora of skincare treatment modalities in aesthetic centres, like anti-ageing injectables (toxins and dermal fillers), lasers, chemical peels or using cosmeceuticals at home. However, Generation Z has created its own approach to antiageing that is becoming a new trend in aesthetic clinics around the world. Millennials are starting online @ probeauty.co.za
to use rejuvenating treatments as a more active approach to antiageing instead of a reactive one. This approach is referred to as pre-rejuvenation.
Increasing demand The recent annual member survey of the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (AAFPRS) found that 72% of facial plastic surgeons had seen an increase in demand for cosmetic procedures in patients under the age of 30. This is a significant increase from 2017, when the members started to note the influx of younger patients. Millennials’ approach to skincare is that instead of waiting for fine lines and wrinkles to
try and correct the skin once the collagen and elastin has been lost. Early action will also prevent the formation of sun damage, uneven complexion and pigmentation. Thus the main aim with prerejuvenation is the prevention of the possibility of having to experience more aggressive treatments at a later stage in life in order to get rid of damaged skin.
Youthful mesh This aim is achieved by keeping the collagen and elastin, which are like a mesh that keeps the skin firm and youthful, healthy. Collagen breakdown is responsible for the vertical lines that form on an aged skin.
Maintaining elastin in the epidermis will prevent more of the horizontal line or wrinkle formation. It is said that elastin in the skin can start breaking down from your 20s already, especially if a person is leading an unhealthy lifestyle.
Hyaluronic acid Then of course there is the natural occurring hyaluronic acid that is found in the epidermis and body joints that gives the skin a plump youthful appearance. This substance is directly linked to the health and quality of the dermis, where the collagen and elastin are found. It is said that the natural production of hyaluronic acid in the skin will completely decline by the time a woman reaches menopause, if there has been no intervention in the ageing process. This is normally the time when the older generations start to seek intervention.
Pre-rejuvenation treatments Here are the types of treatments that are currently popular in the pre-rejuvenation sector. Botulinum toxin and dermal fillers: by beginning these types of injectables at a younger age, one can reduce muscle movement in
A common treatment in pre-rejuvenation is when an aesthetic doctor combines a bit of botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid filler to preform micro injections in certain areas of the face. areas that are more prone to static lines before they begin to develop into deep lines or furrows. It has become common for millennials to use fillers to enhance the lip area; this is done with the
objective of improving self-esteem rather than for an actual antiageing effect. Another common treatment in pre-rejuvenation is when an aesthetic doctor combines a bit of botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid filler to preform micro injections in certain areas of the face. This treatment provides the combined benefits of wrinkle smoothing and volumising, resulting in an overall more refreshed look that is completely subtle and natural. Chemical peels: there is a wide variety of chemical peels on the market that will assist to achieve better skin tone. Peels vary and can be superficial or deeper and are made up of a wide variety of ingredients from Alpha and Beta hydroxy acids, resorcinol and TCA (Trichloracetic Acid) to mention just a few. Due to the fact that the pre-rejuvenation age group has no major skin issues regarding ageing, regular superficial peels are very popular. However, if they are suffering with scarring and damaged skin caused by acne, they may consider something deeper to improve their appearance. Radiofrequency (RF): skin tightening technology using RF energy that is effective down to the dermis to tighten and firm skin is very popular. As mentioned earlier, many of the effects of ageing are due to the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermis. The above types of treatment modalities work by stimulating collagen growth and improving the tensile strength of the existing
collagen. This would form part of a millennial’s regular skincare regime just to maintain skin health.
Cosmeceutical skincare Just as we need water to stay healthy, so does the skin need nutrients to glow. Introducing medical grade skincare into your client’s skincare routine in their 20s and 30s will assist and support the client’s natural elasticity and increase the skin’s
Photo by Meritt Thomas on Unsplash.
cell turnover to prevent the early development of signs of ageing. In addition, the daily use of UV protection is taken very seriously by this generation as a preventative measure. In closing, we are all aware of the saying that prevention is better than cure and this is particularly true when it comes to the skin ageing process.
A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. firstname.lastname@example.org
online @ probeauty.co.za
Looking for new products or brands? Use the Professional Beauty Directory to make the task easy and stress free
You can search by product, such as skin care and see all listings for that category. Search by brand or company name. Search for suppliers in your area Features a comprehensive listing which includes: • Full address details • Location, including access to Google maps • Full product details • Sales brochures • Product videos
Click Here to access this fantastic resource
AHEAD OF THE GAME How to future proof your business
How swimming affects your clientâ€™s nails Photo by Brian Sodre from Pexels
TOOLS AT HAND
Which nail files to use and when
t may be the most basic tool that nail techs have in their kits, but the humble nail file is one of the most necessary too. In this issue we include an in-depth article, written by an expert, on the different types of nail files and various grit sizes, detailing which should be used for what application. At a time when beauty and nail businesses have all been severely affected by the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown, everyone is worried about the future. So, what better time to futureproof your business and try and prepare it for any potential unforeseen catastrophes (such as this pandemic for example). In this issue we include some top tips on how to secure your business for years to come. Now that Summer is in full swing, there will be a lot of swimming going on, both in pools and the sea. For that reason we have an informative article on exactly how pool water and sea water affects your clientsâ€™ nails and enhancements.
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
3 Step UV/LED Gel Polish
50 Industry News
Refine and shape
Stay in the know
Nail files unpacked
Ask the Experts
Refine and shape
How swimming affects the nails
Step by step
Top Tech Talk Cindy Visagie
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Finish 2020 strong, start 2021 busy
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NEWS Japanese co develops biodegradable nails The alarming escalation of plastic pollution on a global scale prompted Green Science Alliance to develop artificial nails, fake nails and ethical nail tips with 100% nature biomass based biodegradable resin, with a micro cellulose composite. Green Science Alliance has been developing various types of natural biomass based biodegradable resins with nano cellulose, PLA (polylactic acid), starch and cellulose as non-edible biomass resources. They have also been
utilising biomass waste such as rice powder waste, shochu (a Japanese alcoholic drink) waste, wood waste, paper waste, bamboo etc. as part of raw materials for their biodegradable resin. It was possible for the Japanbased company to manufacture
Zoya wins international accolade
Bio Sculpture takes up Jerusalema Challenge
Maren by Zoya has won the Best Blue Nail Polish category in the Allure Best of Beauty Awards. This is Zoya’s fourth consecutive win and its fifth product that’s been awarded Allure’s seal of approval. Submissions for the Allure Best of Beauty Awards go through a comprehensive vetting process by the publication’s elite group of editors and experts, testing thousands of products each year. Maren, which was included in Zoya’s Summer 2020 collection, is best described as ‘a vibrant nautical blue cream’.
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artificial nails at a mass production level with their resin with a normal injection moulding machine without any problem, even to a thickness of 0.2 – 0.5 mm. They are gentle for humans because of their porous nature.
Following President Cyril Ramaphosa’s Heritage Day speech in which all South Africans were encouraged to take part in the Jerusalema Challenge, Bio Sculpture decided to hop on board. The BioSculpture team practised the Jerusalema dance every morning for two weeks. Says the team: “It brought so much joy and life to our factory in Clocolan (Free State). We all had such a lot of fun with the challenge. “On Tuesday, 22 September, we videoed the challenge in and around our factory. About 60 people participated, all Bio Sculpture staff members. The video has been our top performing post on social media.” The video can be watched on YouTube with this link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WnitgYFnE0.
Ask The Expert
Photo by Michael Oxendine on Unsplash
the experts QUESTION:
How do summer heat and swimming in the sea and/or swimming pools affect my client’s nail enhancement, gel polish or lacquer treatment?
Sune van Tonder You just got your nails done for the beach holiday you have been excited about for the entire year, only to find that the beautiful pink nails you picked out for yourself have discoloured and lifted. Don’t worry, we have all been there. While summer is a time for fun and relaxation, it is also a time in which people are more active. This means that nail enhancements typically won’t last as long. Luckily, there are a few ways to combat this. The natural nail plate is porous, so it absorbs water quickly and easily. This causes the upper layers of the natural nail plate to swell. Consequently, when the water evaporates, the nail plate shrinks back to its normal size. Regular exposure to water means that your nail plate will expand and contract, which can cause micro-cracks and delamination of the nail plate layers (also known as splitting and peeling). Nails are most vulnerable 60 minutes after exposure to water. For clients who prefer not to wear artificial coatings on their nails, be sure to suggest a clear coat of regular nail polish or nail treatment/ strengthener to create a protective barrier and stop water
from penetrating the nail. This will prevent the likelihood of splitting and peeling and will guarantee your client’s nail plate health year-round. For clients who want nail enhancements during summer, if they are properly built and sealed, swimming and exposure to water should not affect wearability at all. This is because modern nail coatings are non-permeable so water cannot penetrate the product. However, water does penetrate the free edge of the nail (the part of the nail that is not covered with product). This can cause dryness and loss of flexibility and may result in the nail curling in and pulling away from the nail enhancement coating, especially at the corners when the shape of the nail is square. Additionally, exposure to sunlight means exposure to UV rays, which may affect the colour stability of the nail enhancements. Yellowing and colour fading are common, especially with pink and purple shades, which are unpredictable and unstable when exposed to UV light. Try to choose a design that will mask the possible change in colour and will still look great even if
it has faded. To prevent splitting, curling and lifting, recommend an oval or round shape to your clients as these shapes stabilise the free edge of the nail. Because exposure to water can cause dryness and loss of flexibility, suggest regular use of cuticle oil, including under the nail to hydrate the nail plate layers and stabilise the free edge. If you implement these helpful tips for summer nails, then your client can still look fabulous when swimming in the sea and lounging by the pool
After completing a degree in Literary Theory, Sune van Tonder pursued a career in writing and photography. Her work has been featured in several art publications around the country and she hopes to gain even more traction in the world of cosmetic product photography and beauty writing. Van Tonder is the product photographer and copy editor at Nelé. online @ probeauty.co.za
Kay Nail & Beauty Bar launches franchise
fter having opened the first Kay Beauty and Nails Bar back in 2013, in Wesdene Bloemfontein, owner Kay Mophethe is now franchising the brand. Says Kay: “The idea to franchise Kay Beauty and Nails arose last year, after I received numerous enquiries from different people about whether I would be willing to establish similar shops for them. So I decided to go the franchise route in order to protect my Intellectual Property. “Kay Beauty and Nails renders excellent service and uses high quality products. As the quality of our work speaks for itself, it’s not surprising that some of the people who are interested in buying into our franchise are actually clients. “At Kay Beauty and Nails we are always evolving and constantly researching the industry for new products and trends. Our staff members are committed to excellence and the highest degree of customer satisfaction. No matter which of our salons
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you go to, we are all dedicated to maintaining the same legacy of hard work and quality that the brand was originally founded on. “As a South African brand, we are proud to be giving excellent service to our clients. Our prices are competitive and yet we use products of high quality. Kay Beauty and Nails clients receive good value for their money, hence they stick with us.” Kay has a second shop at Northridge Mall in Bloemfontein and reveals that the third shop is coming soon, once the contracts are finalised and signed. She is also looking forward to opening her first franchse in Johannesburg in the near future.
Services The following services are offered at Kay Beauty and Nails: Gel Overlays, Acrylic Overlays, Manicures and Pedicures, Sculpting, Makeup, Facials and Massages. “We are dedicated to providing excellent customer service and a high level of cleanliness,” explains Kay. “We always listen to our customers and try our best to
meet all of their demands.”
Who is Kay? Kay is a qualified nail technician and beauty therapist who has been in the industry for 12 years. Her passion for the industry was ignited by her very first visit to a nail salon in 2006, when her father took her to Dream Nails to get ready for her matric farewell. “This is where I experienced the care and creativity that this industry has to offer,” continues Kay. “I proceeded to study at Dream Nails and Body in Johannesburg, after which I returned to Bloemfontein to start my career. My journey began at Exclusive Image, as a technician where I rented a space and managed to establish my network within four years. I then took the decision to establish the Kay Beauty and Nails brand by setting up my salon at home, where I still operate to this day.” More information on the shops is available on the Kay Beauty and Nails website (www.kaybfn.co.za) and on the brand’s social media accounts (e.g. Instagram and Facebook).
Invest in YOUR future Open a franchised Kay Nail & Beauty Bar and build a business to be proud of. 1. You are investing in a proven business model
Benefit from Kayâ€™s proven experience in running a successful business 2. Benefit from the established brand
A well established brand with a great reputation is a real advantage in building a successful business 3. The franchisor has made mistakes that you donâ€™t have to
All entrepreneurs will make mistakes, benefit directly by avoiding the pitfalls 4. Initial and ongoing support
Enjoy management and marketing support whenever you need it 5. The franchise will be easier to finance than an independent business
If you need to obtain finance, this can be much easier with a proven business model 6. The other franchisees in the system
Take advantage of the mutual support and combined learnings of others within the group
For more information call 082 064 8233 or Email email@example.com
Finish 2020 strong, start 2021 busy Image by joedo0209 from Pixabay
Lea Castro advises salons navigating the challenges of the present on how to stay ahead of the game in the future t’s clear that 2020 has been a year like no other. For most people, it has been extremely challenging. Some salons have had their best months ever, by opening new branches, expanding and accruing waiting lists for appointments, while others had to unfortunately close their doors. Which one are you? What is your vision and your passion? If it is only making money, then I do not think this industry is for you. If your passion is people, making them happy, seeing them relax and enjoy their ‘short vacation’ during their visit to your salon, then you are in the right place. But, what is your point of difference? Why should people come to you? Are you selling a solution?
Oasis Exceptional service and creating an oasis for clients to escape to have never been more important. Life moves at a fast pace and stress is at an all-time high. More
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than ever, a salon visit has become an escape from reality. You need to read what clients need and ensure that you meet them exactly where their need is. Turn the rush of a nail appointment into sheer bliss. This ‘short vacation’ is their escape and that customer will return for additional treatments just to get away. Your attitude, availability and willingness to help is very important to make clients feel like you value them and their business. Throw in a freebie (like a hand massage) and that small gesture of a gift or a discount says to her, ‘we value you’. This will determine if clients return to you or go somewhere else.
her feet and that she will feel more confident after allowing you to fix them. She may not book that day, but perhaps next time. Your motivation is to help her, not the money. Just ask the question: would you like to have your feet done
Know your client
as well or a wax, brow shaping and tinting? Offer vouchers and gift options. If you are running a special, ask the client if she is aware of these offers. Do not presume that she knows already. Present relevant products to your client that will help her solve various problems. Help clients to
Take a moment to understand your client and her biggest concerns. For example, she may never have had a pedicure because she is embarrassed about her feet. This gives you an opportunity to help her by transforming her feet. Reassure her that no one will see
Your attitude, availability and willingness to help is very important to make clients them feel like you value them and their business.
Marketing Get the necessary information to your client in ways that she will read it. The most effective way is on WhatsApp and Facebook. Remember to get their attention with catchy headings, such as ‘Super Spoil’ or ‘Don’t Miss Out’, so that they read the extra text and detail. Word of mouth remains the best way of marketing your business. Incentivise your existing clients to send you customers by offering them a free service, for example, if five of their friends come, etc. A happy customer will send you another happy customer.
Know your business Many salon owners do not understand business nor the necessary planning to grow it. You need to know what every treatment really costs and what your profit per treatment is. As business owners, we get too busy to plan and check stock levels. As I’ve been in contact with salons during and post lockdown, the extra time allowed them and myself to pause and assess our businesses and stock levels. In conclusion, I realised that stock control and wastage is a big problem. We love new things but often do not even know how to use them. So, use what you have and make time to educate yourself as knowledge is power. You cannot sustain your business if you spend more than you make.
use what they have and get the things they really need. It may be time to increase your services. The idea is for you to solve problems. For example: nail fungus is at an all-time high. During lockdown, many people attempted to do their own nails and unfortunately this has resulted in damaged nails that often lead to fungus or ingrown toenails. There are solutions to these problems and, as a nail professional, you need to offer solutions. Explore different options, get all the facts and educate yourself. We make good money through services, but that is timedependant and you only have so many hours in a day. Your retail should pay your rent and it should be 50% of your total turnover. Speak to suppliers and see how they can assist you. Create focus cards with information about products. Change up your displays and always talk about what is new and relevant. Stay up to date with the trends and keep it exciting.
Hygiene protocols and basic cleanliness Hold yourself accountable to the highest standard. Make a point of training your eye to pay attention to detail, like a bit of fluff on the floor, which should be cleaned immediately. Train your team to see what you see. Average is no longer good enough. Covid-19 has alerted people to see things they overlooked before, such as a fingerprint on a screen that would go unnoticed but now becomes a threat. Ensure you have created a safe environment for your team and your clients, do not slack off and get comfortable. During lockdown I was flooded with questions like: Do you have to change your gloves between each client, or can you just sanitise them? Are we charging extra for all the additional costs we are incurring? While these are all valid
questions based on the cost to company, my concern is – what have salons been doing all this time? Good business practice comprises of the following criteria: • Hygiene file pack for each client with their name on (they pay for it, so it reduces expenses) • Gloves and masks (not an option) • Disposable aprons over your uniform (protects your uniform therefore lasts longer) • Fogging between every client (inexpensive when using the correct liquid e.g. only R7 per litre) • Single usage of towels and linen (this should always have been the norm) • Constant sanitising of tools and equipment and proper sterilisation (standard protocol) These practices reassure clients of their safety and builds business for you long term. Be the best version of yourself. Be consistent in everything you do and do not give up. It will pay off in the long term. We will weather the storms of life ahead and 2021 will be our best year ever, both individually and as an industry.
Lea Castro is the founder and owner of Looking Good LCN.
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Up close and personal
Tania Biddle of award-winning salon, Plush Nails & Beauty, gets to grips with the different types of nail files and their specific applications nderstanding the various nail files and buffs available in the market is a vital aspect to achieving a perfectly defined application. Nail files and buffs are used at different times during a nail service, such as when doing nail plate preparation, refining and smoothing gel or acrylic layers, shaping the overall application to achieve a perfect finish, and to perform product removal. These tools are also important retail items that can be sold to the client at the end of the treatment. It is essential that the technician educates the client properly on how to use a file or buff correctly, to ensure that the
client does not cause damage to her natural nail.
True grit Letâ€™s talk grit, something that is often not understood correctly
When using a nail file or a buff, make sure to work in one direction only in a controlled motion.
fundamental information that we often miss or donâ€™t know the meaning of. If a nail file is 220/220, it means that both sides of the file or buff are of the same grit, whereas if the nail file is 100/180, it has two different abrasive materials, one on each side. Grit is measured by the number and size of grains of the abrasive material per square inch. The higher the grit, the finer the file or buff. The lower grit files, such as a 100 grit, are rough files.
Files vs buffs and results in the technician choosing the incorrect nail file. Each nail file is represented with a number on it, such as 100/180 or 220/220. This is
Files and buffs have different functions. â€˘ Files are used for shaping. This includes the shaping of the free edge according to the
client’s preference and heavier dry product shaping to achieve a perfectly shaped and defined upper arch with thin lateral side walls, a thin and neat cuticle application and a tapered thin c-curve application. • Buffs are used for minor surface shaping and refining. These surfaces include the natural nail, as well as a wiped and dry product layer. • Start shaping with files, proceed with courser buffs and finish the refining with the finest buffs to achieve a smooth, scratch free surface, ready for the following layer of product to be applied, such as colour, ensuring that there is no dust left on the nail or trapped in the side walls or cuticle outline of the nail.
One direction When using a nail file or a buff, make sure to work in one direction only in a controlled motion. This will prevent a buildup of heat created by the nail file, which results in a friction burn felt on the client’s nail that is both uncomfortable and painful. Also ensure to regularly remove the dust particles whilst filing and shaping. This will prevent the dust from getting trapped during product application, which will result in an untidy finish and may even cause the product to lift, but will also give a clean surface, allowing you to evaluate if further shaping and refining is needed.
Hygiene and safety It is suggested that a nail file/ buff be a single treatment only item. Alternatively, it’s advisable that each client purchase their own set of files and buffs. This is to ensure that the correct hygiene measures are met in the salon. The reason for this is that a nail file is a porous item that will absorb liquid and, as a result, cannot be properly disinfected. For an item to be sanitised and then disinfected, it will require contact time in
It is vitally important that the technician is properly trained and experienced with an e-file before working on a client. a soluble disinfectant liquid, normally around 10 minutes. This disinfectant contact time would essential destroy a nail file.
Durability As soon as the grit of the nail file starts getting too smooth, it is suggested that the nail file be replaced with a new one. Over filing could result in a friction burn, which is extremely uncomfortable and painful for the client. The different nail files that are available on the market will last for different periods of time, normally depending on the type of quality of the nail file.
Like anything else in the nail and beauty industry, make sure to invest in good quality products.
Electric file Increasingly, an electric nail file, known as an e-file, is being used by technicians. Although this has many advantages for the client and technician, it is vitally important that the technician is properly trained and experienced with an e-file before working on a client. The technician needs to understand how the e-file operates with regards to the mechanical set-up, speed, grit and which drill bit to use. An e-file can be used throughout a nail service for nail plate preparation, cuticle preparation and refining of application layers. The e-file is also great when used to prepare the nail for product removal, by removing the top layers of product on the nail so that the removal solution is able to penetrate through the porous surface, softening the product for easy release and removal. With this being said, if an e-file is used incorrectly it can cause immense damage to the natural nail and surrounding skin. Many clients may say that they are scared of the e-file but this could be due to one unfortunate bad experience. The success of an e-file, or any nail service for that matter, comes down to the level of experience and training that the technician has. To end off, here is a fun fact. Before matte topcoats were discovered, technicians used to buff over their gloss top coat to achieve a matte look.
Tania Biddle is the owner of the award-winning salon, Plush Nails & Beauty, and the head of education for Bio Sculpture.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Trends Tools
Tools Business Trends
Refine and shape As absolutely essential tools in the nail technician’s arsenal, a variety of nail files and are found in most professional nail brands’ catalogues Bio Scultpure South African brand, Bio Sculpture, offers a number of files for professionals, including a small, mini thin black 150/200 grit file that comes in a 6-pack and is used to shape the free edge of natural nails and to assist in nail preparation and gel removal. The BI-OLYGEL 80 Grit Purple Buff is used to swiftly shape and buff BI-OLYGEL, while the Pink Teardrop is a fine pink 280/320 grit file used to shape the free edge of the natural nail. Bio Sculpture’s Multi-File Handle is used with disposable stick-on file or buff patches. The latter includes a variety of grits for a variety of uses.
LCN The newly launched LCN Mobile Smart Nail File Unit features a cordless design with a digital display. Suitable for left- and right-handed users, the unit incorporates a practical clip to attach the unit to your clothes. It is thus perfect for traveling. With a 4000 mA battery capacity and battery life of between six to eight hours, the unit can be charged via a wireless charger or a USB cable.
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Jessica Jessica nail files are customised to the individual nail type. In the Jessica range there are files available for Normal/ Brittle, Dry/ Damaged and Short/ Peeling nails. The file grit is customised according to the condition of the customer’s nails. Also included in the range is a three-wat buffer.
QD Pro-Design Nails Reusable nail files from QD Pro-Design Nails consist of a stainless steel base and pads made of Japanese red zebra. There are different grits (i.e. sanding surfaces) and each paper is easily stuck to the base and, once used, is removed and thrown away. The stainless steel is flexible yet far stronger than the usual material that files are made from and is easily sterilised. Apart from the fact that the papers are excellent quality and work very well, they may be changed for each client. This ensures hygienic, clean and sanitary service for your clients. The papers are also very cost effective when compared to the price of a regular file.
Product Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails
Strong and healthy From QD Pro-Design Nails, the Gelina Fluoride Protein Calcium Treatment has been created for for tired and damaged nails. Fluoride keeps teeth strong and healthy and can do the same for nails. Phase 1 of the Gelina treatment contains calcium, collagen, proteins and a lot more, while Phase 2 contains the fluoride, as well as other powerful ingredients.
076 376 5945
Classics #2 Like magic Available through Nelé, Magic Moonlight Gel Polish is a new addition to Nail Art Addicts’ line of ‘effects’ gels. It features extra fine, high shine magnetic particles that can be manipulated with a magnet to achieve mesmerising 3D shimmer effects. The gel’s clear base allows application over any colour to create bespoke nail art pieces with a deep, moonlightlike glowing finish.
012 991 2146
Tip top The LCN Magic Top Coat is an acid free UV high gloss sealant without a dispersion layer. It has a flowing consistency and integrated brush for easy application. The use of two different resins creates two layers after the curing (polymerisation) process. Because it results in a harder surface and a softer base, it seals perfectly in combination with any nail sculpting.
010 593 3293
Bio Sculpture has introduced eight brand new colours to the EVO Classic range. These lovely shades have been named after special ladies from Bio Sculpture Israel, which is celebrating 20 amazing years with the brand this month.
051 943 0377
Colours galore New to the South African market, Faby Italian Nail Couture has more than 242 shades available with a unique mix of delicate to strong hues, classic shades and original colours. Every nail lacquer has its own title, a name inspired to its colour, a short story to pay tribute to memories, cinema, literature, voyages, music and fairytales.
021 981 0032
Step by Step
This fairytale-like design was created by Nadia Erasmus
Moon and Tree
Dry brush gel polish over the whole nail.
Paint the base of the hill that the tree will stand on with black.
Paint the background of the nail with silver glitter and paint the outline of where the cat will be on the nail.
Paint the nose and ears.
Paint the moon and and add varieties of grey and white to give effects. Lastly, paint the tree with a fine liner brush and black gel or acrylic paint.
Create definition by using different grey, black and white paints to give the cat fur-like features. Then paint the eyes.
Paint the teeth, add some final definition and then complete with finishing top coat.
Nadia Erasmus is an awardwinning nail artist and technician based in Cape Town. She has her own salon, Nadz Hope Nails, lashes & Make up.
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NailFile talks to award-winning nail technician and salon owner, Cindy Visagie, about the importance of competitions and maintaining professional standards in the industry. What was the most challenging element of your Space Age design to execute? I would say the most challenging part was my spaceship and getting it to move up and down to lift off, especially as it was so small. Also challenging was the snow globe moving star nail, which involved trying to get the glitters, stars and water into the nail and sealing it so that nothing would escape.
Rensburg, in which they explained exactly what they are looking for in themed nail competitions, going into detail with how your step by step guide should be created, etc. I learnt so much from that webinar and it helped me greatly. It became clear to me where I needed to improve. I would like
to thank NailFile for setting these regular nail design competitions as they challenge and inspire us to improve ourselves.
Do you also take part in live nail competitions? You recently won NailFile’s Space Age Photographic Nail Design Competition with your dazzling set of galactic nails. How did it feel when you found out that you’d won? I was seriously overjoyed, screamed like a Grade 1 schoolgirl, and leapt around. The thing is that I’ve been entering these competitions for a while now and couldn’t believe that I had finally won!
What do you enjoy about taking part in themed nail competitions? I absolutely love the challenge and love pushing myself and challenging myself. While I do not always place in competitions, I learn something new every time. The important thing is that you, as a nail professional, keep growing as you learn. I watched the recent Professional Beauty webinar with Tracey Owgan and Sonette van
Yes, I placed 3rd in the Gel Polish category in the 2017 Professional Beauty Nail Championships and 2nd in the Mixed Media category in 2019. Last year I also entered the Nail Safari international competition in Russia and placed 1st in my category. In addition, I enter many competitions on social media and have placed in quite a few as well. I feel the live annual Professional Beauty competition is absolutely amazing, as it is a platform for us to showcase our
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Business Trends Q&A
Top Tech Talk
Business Trends Q&A
62 artistic skills. It really pushes us and tests our skills, and it definitely encourages us to be the best that we can be.
I believe you have your own home-based salon? Yes, it’s called Cindy’s Nails and
to be as successful, talented and humble as she is one day. I keep going for courses as much as I can as I believe I have to keep myself informed and up to date with all the latest technologies. Plus, I get a whole day just to focus on art. Nail art is my happy place. I love
How would you describe your particular style of nail art? I definitely have my own unique style, I love hand painted nail art, but I must say I also love 3D, 4D and 5D nail art. You cannot always do the extreme art on clients’ nails, so I often custom design pen sets with 3D and 4D themed art themes, as well as sculpt mini figurines of pets or people as an extra service.
Do most of your clients request nail art? Yes, just about every client does nail art, it is very seldom that I have not done any art during a service. I had a client once who brought along a material swatch and asked me to paint the traditional
I’ve had it for four years now. That’s actually how long I’ve been a nail tech. However, I have always loved nails, it’s been in my blood
The important thing is that you, as a nail professional, keep growing as you learn. since childhood. I am currently a brand ambassador for QD ProDesign Nails and my next goal is definitely to become an educator.
When did you first get bitten with nail art fever? I had just done my nail training with Bio Sculpture and immediately went for a beginner’s nail art course, which I absolutely loved. It blew my mind. I then went for numerous advanced nail art courses with Alina Kuzmenko of QD Pro-Design Nails and learnt so many new techniques from her. She is my role model; I would love online @ probeauty.co.za
creating something from nothing and seeing the finished product, as well as the satisfaction on my client’s face knowing that that was me – I did that. I have loyal, supportive clients who challenge me, applaud me and cheer for me. They have truly become a part of my life. You laugh with them, pray with them and cry with them. And you learn so much about the different types of people out there. Just the satisfaction and joy that my clients express are enough to keep me going. It’s wonderful seeing each client stepping out of my door feeling like a princess.
Nail art is my happy place. I love creating something from nothing and seeing the finished product, as well as the satisfaction on my client’s face knowing that that was me – I did that. ‘shweshwe’ design for a wedding. And I do a lot of themed sets, such as golf, fishing, hunting, wrestling, bikers, baby, wedding and the list goes on and on. Many of my clients are initially attracted by hand painted art.
What are the biggest career challenges that you’ve faced? I would say the fact that there are many unqualified ladies out there who do nails at ridiculous prices and offer horrendous services. There is not a thing we can do about it and they spoil the industry for the rest of us professionals. I truly wish there was a law that
Do you think the South African industry matches international standards in terms of skills and techniques? Most definitely! We have phenomenal talent in our
I truly wish there was a law that only qualified nail technicians could trade. country. If I have a look at this year’s winners of the NaiFile competitions, their nails are
only qualified nail technicians could trade. If nails are really your passion, then work an extra job, get your qualification, and be confident in what you offer your clients, knowing you are doing things correctly. It is vital to be educated. Many nail brands offer payment plans.
superb, out of this world. I feel a lot of these ladies can compete on an international scale.
What advice would you give someone wanting to embark on a career in the nail industry? Firstly, go for a nail course and then practise on whoever is willing as practise makes perfect. Don’t be too hard on yourself, allow yourself to learn. Any bad criticism is an opportunity to learn and grow. If you are determined and work hard, you will have a successful
Don’t be too hard on yourself, allow yourself to learn. Any bad criticism is an opportunity to learn and grow. career. Go for extra courses as they really help. You learn so much from educators as they share so many useful tips and tricks
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