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Mar/Apr 2018

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In this issue... Regulars

Spa Focus

Medical aesthetics

7 Industry news

24 Disconnection anxiety

42 The daily vitamin boost

Local and international news

41 Crowning glory

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

Inter hotel/ spa communication

26 Spa Focus

Digital detox vs technology experience

50 In the market

All the latest launches

Business All your questions answered

15 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

16 Beauty on trend

Latest trends set to dominate 2018

19 Business savvy in a water crisis

Tackling the drought in the salon

20 Salon Focus

Topical effects of Vitamin C

46 Aesthetic equipment versatility reaches new heights

Multi-platform devices

Special Features 32 What’s on show

14 Ask the experts

Professional Beauty Durban Show Preview

37 Treatment Review

An ‘eye-opening’ treatment

38 Break on through to the other side

SA brands that export

44 Awash with ingredients

Hydrating cleansers

Viso Bello makes a move

34 Interview

Talking to…Debbie Merdjan

14 online @ probeauty.co.za


Welcome

2

S

outh Africa has certainly had an eventful time of late. On 14 February, we saw the long overdue (and much desired) resignation of President Jacob Zuma and the immediate swearing in of his successor, Cyril Ramaphosa. This news brought with it a highly welcome rise in the value of the rand and hopes for a more positive economic outlook for South Africa, which would obviously impact on consumers and in turn, likely improve business in the beauty industry. Then followed a serious downer – the hike in VAT from 14% to 15%, which saw all prices, apart from basic foodstuffs, going up as from 1 April. However, it’s clear that our new President, himself a successful businessman with a reputation for being a skillful strategist and negotiator, is focused on getting our economy back on track after years of downgrades by international ratings agencies, so we must hope for the best. Still on the subject of business, in this issue we report on the new Main Collective Agreement that comprises the terms and conditions of employment that all salon and spa owners must adhere to. It’s important to note that all employers are required by law to register with the National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry. In this issue we tackle an unusual topic – that of the sometimes questionable communication between hotels and their spas, which can impact negatively on spa business. As the article will reveal, hotels should be marketing their spas to guests from the moment they book in and the spa must be in synchronicity with all other hotel departments. We are also running our patriotic annual feature on South African brands and this time we have focused on those inspirational companies that have successfully infiltrated the international market. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

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7 News

News New Collective Agreement for industry

divisions, as well as the different occupations within a salon. This is also relevant with regards to the prescribed salaries in the Collective Agreement. The EOHCB represents the employers within the industry, and we negotiated all the salaries and terms and conditions of employment for a specific time period.” He notes that the Department of Labour requires a yearly Collective Agreement. “The terms and conditions of the agreement do not change frequently, but the salary needs to continuously be revisited.” The reason for the different wage structures for different regions in South Africa is due to the fact that there used to be four different Bargaining Councils. Haddon continues: “When they amalgamated to become a single, national entity, the terms and conditions of employment had to be negotiated upon carefully as the union representing the employees was not willing to have an established benefit removed from one area in order to be standardised with another; they would prefer to have the same benefit given to all employees across the country. “Additionally, certain geographical areas still need to have their prescribed wages formulated and negotiated upon.

Negotiations for 2019 salaries have begun.” It is mandatory for any business or establishment operating under the scope of the National Bargaining Council to be registered and compliant.

News in pictures

Valid until December 2018, a new Main Collective Agreement for the beauty and hairdressing industry in accordance with the provisions of the Labour Relations Act, no 66 of 1995, has been gazetted. The Collective Agreement comprises the official terms and conditions of employment with which employers within the industry must comply. It was made and entered into by and between the Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty (EOHCB) and UASA – The Union, both being parties to the National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry. Says Matt Haddon of the EOHCB’s National Division: “There are many changes within the latest Collective Agreement, but the primary overall focus was the first step towards standardising the terms and conditions of employment in all regions of South Africa. In many cases, the different areas will still have similar conditions as they were before, but in some cases, the new Collective Agreement will have presiding national terms and conditions. EOHCB salons that are operating on a national scale have appreciated the standardisation of the Collective Agreement. “The latest minimum wages came into effect in January 2018; salaries vary greatly between different

La Van Skin and Body Excellence System won the Proudly South African Member Company Award at the recent 5th Annual SA Premier Business Awards at the Sandton Convention Centre. La Van was one of 179 entries. Pictured is La Van founder and CEO, Lurinda Swanepoel.

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News

8

inbrief // JSE-listed AEEI (African Equity Empowerment Investments Limited) has acquired a majority stake in Orleans Cosmetics (Pty) Limited (Orleans), the exclusive Southern African distributor of Gatineau, NUXE, RVB SKINLAB/ diego dalla palma professional and Sothys.

// To lobby for appropriate and acceptable regulations, the HPA (Health Products Association) has sent a four-page letter to the South African Registrar of Medicines appealing the classification of dietary supplements and CAMS (Complementary Alternative Medicines) as medicines.

// The Laser Beautique (TLB) has opened its 12th branch, located in Comaro View Shopping Centre, in Bassonia, south of Johannesburg. Sasha Cos is the owner. Meanwhile, the group’s head office recently moved to new premises in Houghton Estate, Johannesburg.

// The management at Kryolan Professional Make-up has noted an increase in the presence of counterfeit Kryolan products on the market, which they warn, can result in unfortunate long-term ailments and may contain traces of lead, cyanide, arsenic, mercury, e-coli, rat faeces, urine and paint stripper.

// Professional tanning brand Vita Liberata has been sold to US pharmaceutical firm Crown Laboratories in a deal estimated to be in the region of £30m.

// Thalgo has won the ASIA SPA AWARD, which recognises the Prodige Des Océans range for its targeted and performancebased effectiveness results.

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Professional Beauty Cape Town hits the mark

The Cape Town Professional Beauty Show, which ran on 4 and 5 March at The Lookout, V&A Waterfront, proved popular with exhibitors, visitors and workshop delegates, according to feedback. Says Phil Woods, commercial director of the show’s organiser, T.E. Trade Events: “There was a good representation of brands at the expo and exhibitors have been very positive. Visitor numbers were similar to last year and provided great prospects for the exhibiters, who ended the show with many leads.” Jacoline Wentzel of The Spa Warehouse adds: “We made good contacts at the show and were able to reconnect with old clients. As always, the show offered us great exposure.” The team at BNE Cosmetics comments: “It was a great show, very professional and we attracted good buyers and new clientele.” It was the first time that Sure Swipe

had exhibited at Professional Beauty Cape Town. “We had a great show,” they say. Booksy also reported a successful show, generating many leads and conducting new business. Running as part of Professional Beauty Cape Town were three educational workshops, namely Business Skills; Advanced Treatments & Medical Aesthetics; and EducatioNail. Gill De Kock of Serenity Massage & Beauty attended the Business Skills Workshop. “I really enjoyed the sessions, which were crisp, powerful and relevant and I came away inspired. Congratulations to the organisers, everything ran like clockwork. “I always attend the Professional Beauty shows as every time you attend, you inevitably learn something new,” comments De Kock.


Study reveals link between beauty and stereotyping New findings from the Global Wellness Institute have revealed that there is a connection between beauty and the brain when it comes to stereotypes. The Beauty2Wellness study, led by Anjan Chatterjee from the University of Pennsylvania, looked at the ‘beauty is good – disfigured is bad’ stereotypes. Observers were asked to share initial impressions of 26 sets of facial pictures, a mix of those affected by scars, small wounds and facial paralysis, and those who have been treated to correct the disfigurement. Those with post-treatment faces were seen as having more positive personality traits.

“This study shows that people make deep inferences about a person’s personality based on superficial features. Flawed faces are regarded as flawed people,” said Chatterjee. “The cosmetic industry can mitigate these judgements that likely adversely impact people’s wellbeing at work and at play.” According to the report, good-looking people receive many advantages in life – more likely to be hired, given more pay, receive lesser punishments and assumed more intelligent and trustworthy, while the ‘disfigured is bad’ bias can exist and people with minor facial disfigurements may be judged negatively and perceived as having undesirable personality

traits – emotional instability and laziness. A second study showed that people make automatic inferences about a person’s personality when they look at a face, with men especially susceptible to adverse biases.

Kalahari appoints Van Jaarsveld as ambassador Popular singer-songwriter and actor, Bobby van Jaarsveld, has been appointed a brand ambassador for Kalahari Lifestyle. Says Kalahari founder, Carina Franck: “Our new, iconic ambassador represents the same fundamental beliefs that the Kalahari brand aspires to. In an industry that is often fronted by females, we have taken a new strategic approach and Bobby was the natural choice – he is confident, sophisticated and adventurous.

“We are looking forward to the partnership and have many new exciting developments planned with Bobby over the course of this year.” Van Jaarsveld adds: “It’s with great delight that I partner with Kalahari Lifestyle, an incredible South African brand distributed internationally throughout several countries. I love the combination of natural plant oils and extracts combined with modern ingredients. It delivers amazing results and is naturally my choice.”

The Spa Consultants grows Three new additions have been made to The Spa Consultants Team, indicating a significant growth spurt for the company. The new appointees – Michelle Dickason (KwaZulu-Natal trainer); Menna Kleine (national/ international trainer); and Kym-Casey Stafford (national/

international trainer). “We are delighted to welcome these top industry professionals to the company and look forward to growing the business with them,” says The Spa Consultants managing director, Marisa Dimitriadis.

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News

9


Changes at Imablie Beauty Brent Kairuz has been appointed chief executive officer (CEO) and a shareholder of the Imbalie Beauty Group, whose franchises include Placecol Skin Care Clinic, Placecol Spa, Placecol Aesthetic Clinic, Perfect10 and Dream Nails Beauty. He replaces Esna Colyn, who has moved into the position of chief operating officer (COO). Kairuz previously worked at the Famous Brands Group. His most recent responsibility was as managing executive for PAUL South Africa, where he successfully established the first ever PAUL in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg. Says Colyn: “Brent has in excess of 18 years of experience in the

franchise environment and will strengthen Imablie’s current executive management team. He is foremost an entrepreneur who has built up his own successful businesses and will drive the overall strategic vision of Imbalie Beauty of being the leading beauty and wellness franchise group in South Africa. “My role as COO going forward will be to support Brent to ensure that we strengthen our beauty brand offering, distribution platform and overall service delivery and support, which includes education and marketing to all our franchisees. I remain committed and passionate towards each of our brands and in

serving them in my new capacity. “We would like to wish Brent great success in his role and look forward to all of us entering new frontiers at Imbalie Beauty.” Debbie Wolfendale remains general manager at Imbalie Beauty.

Isa Carstens Academy Stellenbosch celebrates 40 years Celebrations to mark the 40th birthday of Isa Carstens Academy Stellenbosch will commence in May. Says alumni relations coordinator, Sanet Neethling: “The Academy was established in 1978, then offering only a one-year course. Over four decades it has grown and developed as a training and education institution in the health and wellness industry that is recognised not only nationally, but internationally as well. “The original one-year course expanded into a three-year course in Somatology (NQF 6), as well as an Advanced Diploma in Dermal Aesthetics (NQF 7), various short courses and the opening of the Isa Carstens Academy Campus in Pretoria.” Neethling notes that the Academy recently held the graduation ceremony for its first ever class in the new Advanced Diploma in Dermal Aesthetics. In addition, the Academy marked its 40th graduating class at the beginning of December 2017.

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News in pictures

News

10

Venus Concept Africa won the trophy for Best Overall Performance in 2017 for the EMEA region at a recent Venus Concept event in Rome. Pictured are: Melissa Kang (Venus Concept’s global marketing director); Gary Price (Venus Concept Africa); David Bays (VP of sales: EMEA Region); Thyrza Price (Venus Concept Africa); and Bill Kelley (president of global sales).


Business Tips

14

ask

the experts

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

How can I convince clients to dedicate more time and money to bodycare? Seventy-nine percent of women think facial skincare matters more than body skincare. However, with time your hands, knees and elbows will all show the signs of ageing. We need to educate our clients that taking care of the skin on their entire body is as important as face care.

Know your customer A good consultation is absolutely essential; it is a fact-finding mission which will allow you to identify all your clients’ needs, give the best treatment and recommend the ideal products. This will also inspire confidence in clients. Ensure the ranges you stock satisfy your type of clients and their interests. For example, if most clients are interested in anti-cellulite treatments, make sure they are available.

Have a conversation Many people have a negative connotation of selling and often find their therapists following a scripted narrative. Ensure you listen more than you talk – understand their needs and

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explain what you have on offer to manage all of their concerns. Show your client that you are truly interested and craft your questions in a clever way to receive the necessary answers for you to recommend treatments as well as home care.

Know what you are selling It is imperative that you are excited about what it is you are selling. Know your body treatments and products inside out. Share examples of results you have experienced yourself, or that your clients have. You need to showcase your expertise of the product and help inspire your client. You are the professional and your clients want you to be their source of valuable and true information. Teach them about the difference between the skin on your hands vs the skin on your face, or the benefit of exfoliating and moisturising your entire body not only as an anti-ageing protocol but to increase circulation and assist with water retention and cellulite.

Now set the stage Merchandising is key so ensure your display area is inviting, educational and interactive. Encourage your clients to feel, touch and smell the products. Tell a story with your displays and use it to create interest as soon as they walk through your door. Host events with a specific focus on body care, such as talks on various body care topics where guests receive a take home product and informational booklet. Dedicate focus on a specific body part with bundle promotions that include a treatment and product. Disseminate educational nuggets through all your avenues including social media, website and print. PB Emmy Stoltz is regional director for the Global Mentorship Program and head of spa distribution for MatsiMela Home Spa. Through her own business, Spa Fusion, Stoltz offers mentorship and consultancy to some of the country’s top spas . emmy@spafusion.co.za.


15 Business Trends

Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in January 2018.

Insider Spa

Insider Salon

Encouragingly, most of the spas polled reported a bumper January, both in terms of treatments and retail, with the average treatment room occupancy at an impressive 81%. It’s clear that hotel spas do enjoy an advantage as they have a built in potential captive market, especially as high season does tend to last until mid-January. We asked you what was the most popular retail product in January and the overwhelming response was moisturisers. As to the most important aspects that spas consider when choosing a supplier, these turned out to be brand reputation, price and support with training.

Salons continued to struggle at the beginning of 2018 in terms of both treatment and retail business, as their clients battled the tough economy and political uncertainty. Traditionally January always tends to be a challenging month for salons due to customers trying to recover from their extensive festive season expenses. However, some salons noted that business at the beginning of February showed signs of picking up. One salon reported that it was making a concerted effort to increase business by telephoning old clients rather than relying on social media and that this tactic has worked really well as clients like ‘the personal touch’. Another factor that is already being felt by salons is the effect of the 1% increase in VAT, from 14% to 15%, as the majority of suppliers appear to have increased their product prices. The most popular retail product at salons over January was, not surprisingly, sun protection. This was followed by moisturisers and cleansers. We asked you what is the most important aspect when choosing a supplier and the majority said price and brand reputation. PB

The month in numbers

SALON 65

SPA 81 Average treatment room occupancy

Average treatment room occupancy

%

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2018 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2017?

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2018 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2017?

79%

37% 10% 53%

Better

3% 18% SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2018 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2017?

82% 8 % Better

SAME

10% WORSE

Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2018 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2017?

29% Better

5%

66% WORSE

SAME

online @ probeauty.co.za


Business Tips

16

Beauty O N T REND

‘City Care’ This is a new and big thing. Our air is not as clean as it used to be. You can offer your client ‘City Care’ treatments and they will love you. Especially if you’re in a big city.

Doctor in the House

Debbie Merdjan looks at the latest beauty trends set to dominate this year.

I

t’s 2018 which means new, exciting and time to innovate. As a spa owner, this is a good time to be aware of what’s new on the market, what’s exciting and what the latest trends are. And that is exactly why I spent time at Cosmoprof in Hong Kong as I wanted to ensure that I was as up to date as possible for 2018 and that I could share the newest, most exciting trends. I felt incredibly privileged to have an inside peek into the way the industry is moving forward and to see the revolutionary new products and techniques that are available. There is huge emphasis on youthful looking skin. This is not new, but the products coming onto the market are highly advanced, featuring new ingredients, new technology and new machinery.

Flash freezing You may have heard about Collagen Balls? There are many techniques that involve flash

freezing to preserve the active ingredients in skincare products, such as collagen. Many spas are now offering freeze drying products and the results are very good.

Freshly pressed Ingredients are combined just before application to the skin, ensuring the consumer gets the maximum benefit from each active ingredient. The formulations are cutting edge, high-tech and while we’ve seen ‘freshly pressed’ before, we haven’t seen as many smart and beneficial ingredients as the ones coming.

Selfie-worth masks Think of sheet masks. These come infused with so many on-trend products, including collagen, hyaluronic acid, snail and fruit extracts. The beauty is that you can offer clients sheet masks as part of their treatment AND you can retail sheet masks in your salon. They work and the results are phenomenal.

This is all about the latest dermatological-level technology that consumers use in their own homes with a lot of diagnostic electronic tools to facilitate the process.

Equipment From high tech lasers to radiofrequency, ultrasound, micro current, cryotherapy (high-tech fat freezing therapy), oxygen infusion, water dermabrasion, HIFU rejuvenation and a lot of infrared and light therapy too. I was very impressed with the latest Endermologie machines, the results are phenomenal. Other trends include: • ‘Get Your Greens’ • Plant water • Instinctive gestures • Otherworldly textures • Beauty from within • ‘Palettes Go Bespoke’ • Diagnostic technology There are a lot of new things out there – it’s all exciting and many of the latest beauty products, treatments and machines have made their way to South Africa. Look out for them. Be innovative. It’s 2018! PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. dm@camelothealth.co.za

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business savvy IN A WATER CRISIS

With Cape Town still in the grips of the crippling drought, Lauren Gibson encourages salon owners to tackle the situation head on.

O

ne of the most common questions in Cape Town at the moment is: ‘What are we going to do about Day Zero?’ Yes, it is a scary thought and a lot of businesses are already under pressure. So, what are your options? Well, you can stick your head in the sand and ignore it, or you can actively support the community and your business by becoming more water wise. It’s important to note that the water crisis could well spread to the rest of the country. While the salon industry doesn’t rely only on water, we do use a large amount of it and often small things are taken for granted such as ice cubes in iced tea, water with pedicures, or flushing the toilet. Running your business in a more water wise manner will also help your pocket, which in turn helps your profit margins. It is therefore a win-win situation.

A little goes a long way

Manis and pedis

Small changes you can implement in your salon include things such as choosing the right appliances for your salon. This may seem menial but every drop counts. So, purchase a pressurised coffee machine, as well as efficient tap fittings and even have a kettle in every treatment room to ensure water isn’t being wasted while warming it for treatments. And, you may have to stop offering body scrubs, wraps and treatments that involve a shower afterwards. Cleaning the floors or equipment can be done with an eco-friendly spray that doesn’t need to be washed or wiped off. You simply spray it onto the floor and mop the area. A great brand to try out is Probio, which can be found at most Superspar grocery stores. Equipment can be sterilised, or cleaned with Opticide wipes.

Manicures and pedicures often use a lot of water and we need to be smart about how we do these treatments in our businesses. Swopping to waterless pedicures can save up to 1,000 litres of water just in one week, depending on how many pedicures you usually perform in a week. Why not offer pedicures and manicures using warm compresses? The extra water that collects in the hot cabby can then be used for cleaning or wiping surfaces down. And you could do the same for skin treatments, using a hot mitten or two. Be smart about how you end off your skin treatment and try to layer products so the client can go home with her masque if possible. Only you can make the change. It doesn’t matter how big or small it may be. PB Lauren Gibson has worked for Dermalogica for four years. She has been an educator, sales brand consultant, and, more recently, the regional manager for Cape Town. Her passion lies in up-skilling people and unlocking potential in businesses. laureng@dermalogica.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

19


Salon Focus

20

VisoBello makes a move

After over 23 years of being situated within Sandton’s Grayston Shopping Centre, the owners of Viso Bello, Elaine and Steve Meyer, decided to re-locate the salon to a popular precinct in Parktown North. Joanna Sterkowicz reports

N

ow known as Viso Bello on Seventh, the skin care centre is located at 15 on Seventh Avenue, Parktown North, which also houses a patisserie, hairdresser and pilates/yoga/ dance studio. “We’ve already had walk-ins from the other businesses in the precinct,” comments Elaine Meyer, who co-owns the salon with husband Steve. “I love working in Parktown North as it’s much more suburban than being in a shopping centre and I don’t miss our old salon at all.”

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Having previously housed a medi-spa, it already had treatment rooms with built in shelves and cupboards. In addition, each treatment room had its own air purifier and air conditioner, which is something we didn’t have at the old salon.

As to the motivation behind the move, Meyer says it was a combination of factors. “After having been at the Grayston Shopping Centre for 27 years, 23 years as Viso Bello and four years previous to that as another salon, I really felt the need for a change. Steve was also keen to move as there had been incidents of crime at the Centre and the intense traffic on Grayston Drive often prevented clients from getting to us for their evening appointments.” Steve Meyer adds: “Business at the salon has been down the past two years due to the bad economy


Salon Focus

21

so we wanted to find new premises with a more user-friendly rent.” Fortuitously, a sales rep from pHformula (the main skincare brand at Viso Bello) suggested 15 on Seventh Avenue to the Meyers. “We came to see the premises and loved it immediately,” comments Steve Meyer. “Having previously housed a medi-spa, it already had treatment rooms with built in shelves and cupboards. In addition, each treatment room had its own air purifier and air conditioner, which is something we didn’t have at the old salon.”

Quick transition The Meyers and their team (somatologists Anina Naude, Lucy Ndebele and Christina Gaxela, as well as Faith Ncube, who is charge of the salon’s cleanliness) moved in on 27 November 2017 and opened for business three days later. “Luckily the only thing we had to do in terms of refurbishment was to paint the walls, which we did in an elegant, calming blue shade. We also bought two new manicure desks for our reception area to accommodate walk-in nail clients,” explains Elaine Meyer. There are five treatment rooms upstairs, including a dedicated wax room (and change room) and a mani/pedi room, as well a cubicle for Spray Tan treatments and a spacious kitchen and relaxation area for staff. A new somatologist, Zandile Mcanyana, has joined the Viso Bello on Seventh team and microblading has been added to the treatment menu. “Thus far we’ve been delighted with the move – we’re much happier here and have seen an increase in footfall to the salon,” concludes Elaine Meyer. PB

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Miss NELLA brings innocent and whimsical nail painting to kids of all ages. It’s an odourless nail polish aimed at little princesses in a bid to emulate mummy. It’s non-toxic and easily peels off Moyou Nails and Miss Nella are both available on Wholesale program, which will be great for salon owners or people who sells beauty products. We also have the Miss Nella nail polish stand to make your display look more beautiful and organised.

Moyou nails specializes in nail designs and nail decoration which create beautiful artistic designs. For more information on our products or Wholesale program please contact us on info@moyou.co.za/ 011 234 1522 or visit our website www.moyou.co.za.


The all-new 2018 World Spa & Wellness Convention in Johannesburg is taking place on the 2nd & 3rd of September alongside the Professional Beauty Expo at the Gallagher Convention Centre, so please do diarise this event.

5

Key Reasons Why It’s An Event Not To Be Missed

THE CONVENTION AND NETWORKING EVENT FOR SENIOR MANAGEMENT OF SPAS AND HOTELS...

1. Excellent education The World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC) covers the most pressing and relevant topics facing spa and wellness operators today; delivering new insight and ideas on the latest trends and challenges. 2. Learn from the best in the industry The World Spa & Wellness Convention offers one of the year’s few opportunities to hear many of the most experienced and high-profile names in the sector speak, sharing their input and expertise. 3. Fantastic networking opportunities The World Spa & Wellness Convention is not only a chance to hear leading industry professionals speak, but also to network with them, and with your spa and wellness peers and colleagues. The convention will feature a number of interactive sessions that actively encourage audience participation and offer the opportunity to talk to and engage in discussion with both session chairs and speakers as well as other delegates. 4. Discover the latest industry trends and launches The World Spa & Wellness Convention takes places as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at the Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. A leading trade event for the spa, beauty and wellness sectors, the show annually attracts around 17,000 visitors over two days and draws more than 300 brands from across the sectors, as exhibitors. 5. Takeaways Conferences can be expensive. From the conference ticket to the plane ticket, from the meals to the bar tab. And that doesn’t even include the time away from the office where you could be doing “work.” However, conferences provide a unique convergence of networking, learning, and fun into a single package. A good conference forces you to grow and challenge yourself. Plus, it allows your employees to get out of the office, gain confidence in their ability, and bring fresh ideas back to the business.

FOR BOTH

DAYS

R800 early bird special offer R1200 after the 1st of August

For more information on the convention programme log on to to www.probeauty.co.za/wsw.htm


Word Spa & Wellness Convention speaker spotlight: Jackie Armitage Jackie Armitage, Spa Manager of the award-winning The Spa at the Oyster Box in Umhlanga, will be part of the Differentiation For Your Spa Brand Panel at the 2018 World Spa & Wellness Convention, which runs at Gallagher Convention Centre on 2 & 3 September. What would you like delegates to take away from your session? I hope to inspire change and see delegates taking away new ideas that they can implement at their own spas and start to work on their own unique brand. Sometimes we resist change, however at times change is the best catalyst to moving forward...in a good way!

What are the key reasons you want to speak at the World Spa & Wellness Convention? It is an honour to be asked to share my experience and knowledge of over 15 years with industry leaders and practitioners and in this way give something back to the spa community.

Why is Differentiation For Your Spa Brand an important topic to address? Our spa brand is as unique as we are and this is what makes us successful and different to our competitors. Being able to differentiate your spa from other spas is the key to attracting clients / guests that feel comfortable in the space, like the spa’s ethos and appreciate the high levels of service and attention they receive from our skilled therapists. It’s the whole package.

Why is it important for industry professionals to attend events like the World Spa & Wellness Convention? It’s a fantastic way to network, share and learn from other professionals in the industry. Often people think that they have to work in isolation, or that other spas will steal their business or ideas, however by attending conventions and seminars, and sharing best practice and learnings, the whole spa industry / sector benefits and is stronger as a result.

What do you look for from the industry events you attend? Any new ideas to implement in our spa so that we are continuously innovating and growing our business. I personally also love the networking opportunity it provides.

In what direction do you anticipate the spa and wellness sector moving in the next 10 years? Currently foreign guests / clients are focusing more on general wellness and health / healing. One out of five guests is looking to book wellness trips instead of simply a holiday / vacation. I see this trend increasing with consumers wanting to

incorporate health & wellness into their vacation in order to learn new ‘life’ skills that they can continue to practice in their everyday lives. I also think ‘sleep pods’ will be incorporated into most spas due to the hectic lifestyle people lead and the lack of sleep. People will focus more on mind health programmes, preventative alternative medicine and anti-stress techniques. Jackie Armitage is speaking on the Differentiation For Your Spa Brand Panel at 11:45 on Sunday, 2 September. The 2018 World Spa & Wellness Convention takes place at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand on 2 & 3 September, as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo.

For more information on the convention programme log on to to www.probeauty.co.za/wsw.htm

online @ probeauty.co.za

World Spa & Wellness Convention

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Spa Focus

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anxiety

DISCONNECTION

I

Professional Beauty asks leading spa consultant, Francisco Caceres Garcia, to examine why guests so often experience a high disconnect between hotels and their spas.

t’s no secret that hotel spas are one of the fastest growing sectors within the current worldwide wellness trends. Most of the big hotel management companies are nowadays converting existing space within their properties into spas, or ensuring that each new property built has a spa. The mere fact that a hotel has a spa on its premises automatically elevates the guest’s perception of the value proposition when comparing room rates from one hotel to another. There is absolutely no doubt that hotels with spas have a higher ADR (Average Daily Rate) and better Revpar (Revenue per Available Room) as well. Furthermore, hotel spas make the highest profit percentage out of all the different types of spas in our industry, some of them reaching incredible levels of 40% departmental profit.

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They keep treating the spa as a ‘value add’ to the guest experience rather than as a great revenue and profit generating centre in the hotel. So, with all these facts in place, why is it then that we continuously witness such a high disconnect between the hotel and the spa? Before we answer this question, let’s clarify the different types of hotel spas. Firstly, there is the hotel spa where the spa is run by the hotel itself, thus becoming another hotel department. Then there is the hotel spa where the spa space is sublet by a tenant who pays a rental to the owners of the hotel, which in the best cases

still becomes another department within the hotel but does not report directly to the hotel GM but to the spa owner. In the worst cases the hotel only cares about receiving the rental every month without having any involvement in the spa. Whatever the case may be, this disconnect should not take place, but even more so if the spa is run by the hotel itself. However the reality is that this happens. I think it all has to do with identity and inexperience.

Identity Every single outlet and department in a hotel should be mentioned to guests upon their arrival at the hotel. However, 99% of the time the hotel receptionist focuses only on room check-in and explaining room related information. It’s clear that the true identity of the hotel is barely


and forget that our business is about people and not brands.

Oyster Box Hotel

Same language

ever reflected in the check-in experience. The reality is that guests all refer to the in-room hotel directory in order to find out more about the hotel. I think that hotel receptionists should be amazing sales and customer service orientated people (i.e. the same kind of people that we all want to employ at our spa receptions). This would ensure that the hotel spa is not presented or introduced as an exhibit, but rather as a wonderful sensorial experience that can meet and exceed all the needs of the guests. It’s important that the room escorting experience always include an introduction to the hotel’s restaurants, spa, golf course etc. The identity of what the hotel is truly about and what it can do for your guest is so vital to the guest experience but it is still often forgotten. Most of the time we rely on the hotel management company that brands the hotel

The language we speak throughout the entire hotel and spa property must be the same, and it must be spoken with honesty. Every reception and waitressing staff member should undergo a proper induction programme that includes the spa and, if possible, have a mini spa treatment so every employee can form their own opinion about what the spa experience is like. This allows them to be the spa’s ambassadors and speak from their own experience. From its side, the spa should invite these staff members to experience new products and new treatments and keep them abreast of their new developments. Language is the tool to build the identity so we must ensure there is uniformity and cohesion in the message that we are putting out there.

Inexperience Unfortunately in my career I have experienced and worked in some properties where this disconnect was crippling the spa business and other hotel departments. In most cases the disconnect starts from the top. In order for it not to take place you have to have the right hotel general manager, one who has the relevant experience of and exposure to the spa industry. He or she must have the correct mentality and willingness to understand the spa business so that he can ensure the hotel has the ideal sales mix with regards to its guests. This will ensure all outlets in the hotel can make the turnover they need and not just the rooms division. The reality is that many of our current general managers in the country have little or no experience whatsoever in the spa business, its lingo, nature, dynamics or potential.

They keep treating the spa as a ‘value add’ to the guest experience rather than as a great revenue and profit generating centre in the hotel. This inexperience and inadequacy from some general managers to understand the spa business leaves the spa destined to take the backseat in the operation. They only try to understand or reach out to the spa when the hotel needs some form of compensation for guests in the form of complimentary treatments.

Ideal situation An ideal situation would be for the correct general manager (i.e. one with the necessary spa exposure and experience) of the hotel to ensure that the induction programme is really strong and to build a great identity of where staff members work and belong, together with creating a sense of pride. All language spoken and actions taken around the hotel should fit in that same ethos and image they are trying to portray. A lot of effort should be put into developing the hotel’s own personality and dynamics that are present everywhere. Fortunately, there are hotels where the Spa Department is performing at such high levels that jokes go around about modifying the name of the hotel to ‘Spa & Hotel’ (instead of the other way around), as these spas are normally are one of the strongest drawcards for the guests when booking their hotel room. In such instances all hotel departments are in synchronicity with each other as to what they are trying to achieve. The moment you walk into these hotels you will feel unison and seamless operation where disconnect no longer exists and cohesion, understanding and camaraderie is evident everywhere. PB

Francisco Caceres Garcia is an independent spa consultant who successfully managed and directed Mount Grace Country House & Spa and Arabella Hotel Spa. Garcia also worked with the Amani Spas Group as their COO and trains professionals in a wide variety of aspects – from spa finance to retail selling skills. francaceres25@hotmail.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

Spa Focus

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Spa Focus

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Digital detox

vs

TECHNOLOGY EXPERIENCE

Whilst a spa visit should be about calmness, serenity, destressing and rejuvenation, technology is finding its way into every aspect of the spa visit, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

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ven though the term ‘digital detox’ is creeping into spa and wellness marketing, technology can actually enhance a spa experience and make the visit more memorable, which in turn leads to a returning guest. Consider these frightening statistics: 75% of doctor visits over the last 12 months were related to stress and the Top 5 causes of death are stress related. We live in a digital world and the guest does need to switch off, however think twice before you ask a guest to leave their phone in the locker or demand a mobile free area. So, whilst the spa must continue to offer a space

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So, while the spa must continue to offer a space to disconnect, embracing technology in certain ways is important to bridge the gap between consumer and spa and to keep that guest loyal and returning. to disconnect, embracing technology in certain ways is important to bridge the gap between consumer and spa and to keep that guest loyal and returning.

Purely from an administration point of view, technology can be used for smooth and efficient check in and for consultation forms that store guest information. Technology can eliminate paper use and cancel out the irritation of a guest needing to fill out their information all over again when they a returning guest. With technology, information is stored and time is used more efficiently as you don’t have to scramble to find your guests’ consultation forms. In addition, administration time of staff is reduced allowing them to focus on what’s really important, i.e. the guest experience and customer service.


Spa Focus

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Online bookings

Digital consultation forms

Consumers want to go online and choose a time and date and treatment. It’s that simple. Find a way to make this happen and find it fast. There are various online booking platforms to choose from, or go and write your own, or speak to your software provider to integrate something for you. This is a MUST. Make booking a service easy for the consumer.

I would recommend the use of iPad consultation forms that integrate into the booking system. Ensure the consultation forms can be updated at the guest’s next visit and that all information about the guest can be stored. At the World Spa & Wellness Convention in London in February, one of the latest technology implementations in most spas seems to be the use of iPads in

the treatment room. The therapist records guest information on the iPad so that only relevant information pertaining to that guest is sent to them a week after their visit as part of the follow up. This is very powerful and we need to find ways to target the information we send out in such a way that the guest actually wants to receive it. So don’t email when the guest is a whatsapp person, or vice versa. >


Spa Focus

28 It’s important to also have electronic feedback forms. The form should be as simple as possible to fill in, with ticks or numbers. Don’t get complicated.

Social media hot spots The fact is that the guest visiting your spa is heavily influenced by social media. In fact, the guest is inspired and motivated by it, so you have to find ways to incorporate social media into every aspect of their visit. Social media hotspots are so important. Set up areas in the spa where the guest will want to take pictures and selfies. If the setting is carefully thought and planned, the image can go a long way to getting traffic to the spa.

Charging stations Install charging stations inside lockers and in treatment rooms. This impressed me in Hong Kong last November when the spa I visited was promoting digital detox by offering to charge your device when you relaxed. Yes, spa is about disconnect but do you want your guest worrying about their device that needs charging whilst trying to enjoy a treatment? They will relax better if they know their device is handy and charging.

Spa picture Add the taking of a spa picture to the pre-treatment consultation. If you can get your guest to allow you to take a picture of them on the treatment bed to send to their friends or post to social media, then you have some very effective FREE marketing. Not all guests will want this but offer it anyway. The millennial will absolutely thrive on this as it’s all about them and what they are doing. Add the taking of a picture of friends together in the spa facilities area to the spa attendant’s SOP (Standard Operational Procedures) list.

Again, social media drives decisions and inspires, so get in there and inspire the market place before another spa does so.

Personal selection of music This is really important yet how many of you are actually offering this? How many of you enhance the guest experience with the music they listen to? If a guest is able to choose their own music, they will not forget it, as long as it is offered and presented in the correct way.

Locker technology The days of lock and key are really obsolete so enquire into electronic locks, or even a locking system with a card. A very well-known spa in Bath in the UK uses a chip that is attached to your wrist like an armband to unlock the lockers. It’s amazing and the technology is there to make the guest experience more memorable.

Automatic review Encourage an automatic review of the spa visit, or a TripAdvisor review, just after the guest checks out. This is important but you have to make it easy for the guest to do it or they won’t. So, either incorporate the review into the feedback report where it asks to link to TripAdvisor or Facebook, or ask for the review when presenting the guest with

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

the bill. Hand them a device to do the review there and then.

Follow up Find a way of using technology to conduct a follow up with your guest. This is so important and while many spas have this in their SOP manual, they don’t actually get around to doing it. At the World Spa & Wellness Convention, the topic of follow up and keeping the interaction going between visits was a very strong point with ‘between-visitconnection’ being the buzzword. It’s all about connecting and staying connected to your guest. Another current buzzword is ‘channel agnostic’, which I found quite odd but very interesting. This is about finding a way to stay in touch and talking to your consumer in whichever way they prefer, meaning Facebook messenger, whatsapp, LinkedIn, etc. Don’t forget that technology creates conversation but you need to use the technology that is at hand and find new and innovative ways in which to communicate. Spas of the future will have to embrace technology to keep attracting new guests and most importantly to keep their guests loyal and returning. Word of mouth will do its magic with the use of technology, a powerful marketing tool. PB


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The Business of Beauty Increase your profit in 2018 Last year was a tough year for all of us. Take the opportunity to improve your profit, knowledge and business for 2018 by attending the Professional Beauty exhibitions. Not only will you see some great brands, new products and special offers, but also have the opportunity to attend our fantastic series of workshops to help you increase your business knowledge, improve your skills or learn about exciting new treatments.

DURBAN

20-21 May 2018 Moses Mabhida Stadium Register at www.probeauty.co.za for FREE and enjoy the following: • Special offers from a wide range of suppliers • New products and ideas • Fantastic educational workshops • Improve your industry knowledge • Network with your peers Visit www.probeauty.co.za for more information @PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA @PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA


Reasons TO ATTEND

DURBAN

Dedicated to the beauty, nails and medical aesthetics sectors, the Professional Beauty Durban Show runs from 20 to 21 May at the Moses Mabhida Stadium.

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ere are six good reasons why you cannot afford to miss the show.

1.First look at what’s new By attending Professional Beauty Durban, you will be the first in the KwaZulu-Natal region to be exposed to the latest products, innovations, trends, techniques and equipment in the industry, thus giving you an edge over your competitors. To stay ahead, you need to keep abreast of the latest developments in the market and Professional Beauty Durban brings everything together under one roof.

2. The best of the best Professional Beauty Durban strives to attract top, high quality professional brands in the beauty, nails and medical aesthetics sectors, to give show visitors a wide range of exciting products to discover, thus leading to the overall upliftment of the industry.

3. Meet the experts Trade shows such as Professional Beauty Durban offer visitors the invaluable opportunity to interact directly with experts, who can answer any queries you may have about new products or existing

ones. Face-to-face contact with suppliers helps to build productive relationships that are beneficial to both parties.

4. Spot the latest trends With everything under one roof, industry professionals will be able to identify the latest trends in the market.

5. Network with your peers While the beauty industry will always be highly competitive, no-one should work in isolation. Professional Beauty Durban offers industry professionals the chance to connect and interact with like-minded people in order to exchange information and develop contacts.

6. Access to education Professional Beauty Durban is not only focused on showcasing top brands and products but also on providing education for visitors. To that end, three informative workshop programmes have been created to help you run your beauty and nail salons, spas or medical aesthetics clinics: Business Skills & Knowledge; Advanced Treatments & Medical Aesthetics; and Nail Techniques & Technology. For more information about the Professional Beauty Durban Expo and the educational workshops, log on to www.probeauty.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Show Preview

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What’s on

SHOW

at Professional Beauty Durban

KwaZulu-Natal’s premier show for the professional beauty industry runs from 20 to 21 May at the Moses Mabhida Stadium. Here is a sneak peek at some of the exhibiting companies. Best Enterprise A19 This is the first time that Best Enterprise will showcase its systems at Professional Beauty Durban. It is also the first time that the Formatk product range will be on show at an exhibition in the Durban region. Visitors are invited to look at the leading technology these systems have to offer clinics/ salons. Product specialists will be on the stand to explain the range and its differentiations in the market. Some of the systems will be on show for visitor interaction. Best Lasers A23 There will be live demonstrations of the Alma Beauty Reboost on the Best Lasers stand, as well as some of the company’s latest systems for visitors to observe and interact with. Brochures of the company’s extensive range will be available for visitors to take home and research. Product specialists will be there to answer any questions and explain the return on investment process to those who are interested in changing their lives.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Bio Sculpture SA (PTY) LTD B24

A new Bio Sculpture collection will be showcased on the stand. KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) distributors and educators, Kristy Muller and Bronwyn Glasspoole, will have a presence on the stand, ready to answer questions, demonstrate nail art and techniques and present educational seminars focusing on brand ethics, techniques and Bio Sculpture as a complete nail care system. LAMPROBE SA B 39 Empowering you with knowledge and skills to achieve greater heights in your business, profession and personal growth, offering life changing procedures to improve the aesthetics and comfort of everyone’s skin.

Lays Beauty C30 Lays Beauty is home to some really innovative and effective beauty products that have been both tried and tested. Visit the stand for lots of exciting specials on Massage Oils, Tissue oils, creams and soaps. Latest products include Lays Hair Oil Spray, Pain Oil Spray, Advanced Lightening cream and Advanced Lip therapy, which has really taken off well as testimonials from our clients continue to flow in. Visitors are invited to see the new range of Soy Scented Candles for massages.


Lilian Terry International Spa & Wellness Products C25

Our range of products is made in South Africa and formulated by a clinical aromatherapist and a medical doctor/ homeopath. Products include massage oils, gels and toners, body wraps, silicone massage cups and more and are suitable for spa, salon and home use. Visit the stand to experience our complexes, wraps and cups, as well as to take advantage of show specials. LTI co-owners Dr Kateryna Tsvyetkova and Derek Terry will be on the stand to welcome visitors and invite them to watch demos.

for long enough to understand the importance of every single facet of the artistic process, as well as the necessity for professional training programmes and realistic pricing structures backed by outstanding service. Nail Therapy A1 This professional nail care brand offers SAAHSP accredited nail technology courses. We are specialists in bulk solvents, nail art, consumables and nail care products. Watch live demos of all our gel products, nail art, rubber and the sculpting gel range. A wide range of effect pigments will be offered at less 10%. Red Velvet Nail Manufacturing C5 The Red Velvet nail manufacturing company was founded in 2016. Our main products include UV gel colour changing gel, cat eye, base,

top, matte etc. We have always adhered to the concept of ‘quality is the lifeblood’ of an enterprise and have a dedicated team of scientists who ensure product quality. STUDEX B23 APS is the exclusive importer of STUDEX® ear piercing products. APS will demonstrate to salon owners how offering a STUDEX® ear piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into their business. Our systems are very easy to use, extremely hygienic and can be used for belly and nose piercing as well as for ear piercing. We look forward to meeting both new and existing customers. For more information about exhibitors please visit www.probeauty.co.za

Educational workshops

MY Appointment C32 MY Appointment offers the latest mobile booking APP to keep your business profitable 24/7. We also offer full salon management including Payments, Reporting, Vouchers, Loyalty, Commission and more. Nailsforu B2

The art of creating and maintaining beautiful nails requires creativity, excellent products and years of experience. nailsforu have been purveyors of this fine art

As with all Professional Beauty shows, there will be a big focus on education at the Durban Show, with workshops offered in the following: • Business Skills & Knowledge • Advanced Treatments & Medical Aesthetics • Nail Techniques and Technology Industry professionals in the KZN region are encouraged to attend the above workshops as we are all doing business in a time that requires inventiveness, imagination and a passion to succeed, so as to maximise our potential and take our businesses to greater heights. The inspiration behind these workshops is to focus on what is required to stay at the top of your game, through keeping up to date with the latest trends, product innovations, techniques and business skills. For more information about the workshop programmes log on to www.probeauty.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Interview

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Talking to...

Debbie

Merdjan Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to Debbie Merdjan, CEO and founder of one of South Africa’s largest spa groups (Camelot), about the group’s expansion and the evolution of the spa sector.

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n addition to launching the Camelot Spa at Marion on Nicol in the last quarter of the year, you also launched spas at The Boardwalk Hotel in Port Elizabeth; No5 by Mantis in Port Elizabeth; Val de Vie in Paarl and The Dome in Abuja Nigeria. Do you have plans to launch more spas this year? Yes, we are currently working on four exciting new spas to franchise and open in the next quarter. Our emphasis is on developing health and wellness schools in Africa, job creation, franchise expansion and exporting our brands globally. There are 18 Camelot Spa branches and 10 CSpa Wellness branches. Nine of these are head office owned. Is the South African market big enough to accommodate all the Camelot Spas as well as the multitude of other spas that are operating today? The South African market is continually growing and more and more clients are seeking spa

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treatments due to increasing stress and lifestyle pressures. Wellbeing travel and spa breaks are gaining in popularity. Treatments are becoming ever more sophisticated, offering longer treatments as part of a basic package and a more bespoke experience. Combining business and leisure travel is definitely a popular trend by adding extra days onto the end of a business trip, or taking a few hours for spa treatments to make the most of it. Our spas are operating seven days a week and longer hours to cater for the growth in the market. How do Camelot Spas differentiate themselves in the market? My main focus has always been to stay ahead of trends and differentiate Camelot Spa from our competitors. I sit on the International Global Wellness Spa Consultants board and travel to international spa and educational events to ensure our group is always up to date. One of the latest trends I am

pursuing is the use of technology in our spa offering, from education and client communication to results driven treatments. We have just secured the LPG Endermologie agency for Africa and will be rolling out new generation spas and technologically designed treatments with amazing results. What were the challenges of setting up spas outside South Africa’s borders, as in Botswana, Malawi and Swaziland? The biggest challenges are the regulatory and economic stability of these countries, which pose difficulties with payments, staffing, visas, training and costs related thereto. I believe you have launched the CSpa Wellness by Camelot brand – please elaborate. We are launching CSpa Wellness by Camelot within the first quarter of 2018 as we identified the need for spa and beauty to complement workplace wellness benefits. By introducing an express wellness and


Interview

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beauty offering, companies are able to keep employees happy with an on-site solution while fostering a positive self-image. While intimate in scale, our CSpa Wellness properties will exude a sense of balance, harmony and nature and will not compromise on the luxury and service excellence of the Camelot brand. The success of our existing corporate branches has resulted in the development of our offering to residential complexes, which require an express spa offering as part of the growing trend of all-in-one lifestyle centres.

Our emphasis is on developing health and wellness schools in Africa, job creation, franchise expansion and exporting our brands globally. You opened your first spa in 1997 – how has the spa landscape in South Africa changed since then? Our profession is constantly changing and evolving. When I opened my first spa there was very little competition and the spa concept was very new to South Africa. The training for therapists was a single year and the industry was predominantly a salon market. To give you an example of how standards and competencies have changed since then, when I qualified I did a weekend International Aromatherapy/ Feflexology course for all of 14 hours and was then called an Aromatherapist / Reflexologist. Today we teach Therapeutic Aromatherapy and Reflexology and one studies for 2,400 hours per subject. The main change since the early days of spa in South Africa is that both spas and spa travelers are now much more clued up than they were years ago. There is also a bigger influence on wellness and relaxation. Travelers know what they want and spas are considerably better at delivering and exceeding ‘the spa experience’.

Spas are also much more accessible than they once were, in every way. The variety of packages has changed considerably and wellbeing travel is now a much bigger trend than it has ever been. We’re all so much more aware of our health and how spas can play a part in that. What would you say are the biggest issues currently facing the South African spa sector? Staff, staff, staff! Unfortunately our spas are only as good as our staff and the ethics of our new generation therapists are not as they used to be. HR has become a timely and costly issue for all spa operators and no sooner have you trained up a new employee, they leave with no notice or understanding of the implication on the spa business. Forecasting and managing staffing needs is a tricky element of strategic planning for the South African spa sector. Staffing levels affect many aspects of the business. Too many employees not performing and nor reaching the treatment and retail targets drives up overheads and directly affects business profitability. Too few employees limit the ability to serve current customers and grow the business. Another important issue is environmental awareness. Spas are being forced to become increasingly eco-aware in everything from their treatments to the functionality of their pools and hydro treatments. PB

online @ probeauty.co.za


online @ probeauty.co.za


‘eye-opening’ AN

TREATMENT

Alexandra Norvall becomes the first person in the world to experience Black Pearl South Africa’s luxurious new eye rejuvenation treatment, the Exaltation Eye Renewal.

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s someone who had previously been treated to Black Pearl’s deluxe 24K Gold Facial, I was really looking forward to this new treatment, which has a particular focus on renewing the skin around the eyes. The issues I wanted to address were puffiness and lines.

On arrival at Dr Mothomang Diaho’s Spiral Aloe Medical Spa in Dainfern Square, I learnt that the Exaltation Eye Renewal treatment was developed by the Black Pearl South Africa team, led by Dr Michelle Roberts. Said Faaizah Abram, Black Pearl South Africa’s business development manager and trainer: “This 45-minute treatment

incorporates the use of our new product, the Instant Youth Effect Wrinkle Reducer, as well as Black Pearl’s incredible new silicon mask system for face, eyes, neck and décolleté. The system is formulated with collagen, HA (hyaluronic acid) and 24 carat gold.” Abram commenced my treatment with the welcome ritual, which comprises the Refreshing Milk Cleanser and a soothing massage, followed by application of the Face Mousse Cleanser. “This contains alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and a unique seaweed ingredient from the Pacific Ocean that mimics HA,” commented Abram.

She then applied Black Pearl’s recently launched Prestige Capsules, which are rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9, as well as Vitamins A, C, E and ginseng. These capsules contain no parabens, no preservatives, no perfumes and really boost the skin, like an intensive serum. Abram massaged the capsules into my skin with two semi-precious stones – amethyst (which has

healing properties and aids in lymphatic drainage) and rose quartz for its calming effect on the skin. “With this massage we release the Ayurvedic pressure points,” commented Abram. Next came the application of the ready-made silicon mask system – firstly two under eye masks and then the facial mask. “The eye mask contains the Instant Youth Wrinkle Reducer with bamboo extract to treat puffiness and crow’s feet and is also used around the mouth for smile lines,” explained Abram. She noted that the face mask includes crushed Tahitian Black Pearl to help the skin hold up to 30% more moisture. This stayed on for 20 minutes, during which time Abram performed an arm massage with Black Pearl’s Divine Body Butter with 24 carat gold, jojoba oil and shea butter. The mask felt absolutely wonderful. Once Abram removed the mask she massaged the excess into my skin and finished off by applying the Perfect Day Cream. What an amazing treatment! Not only did it feel fabulous and make my skin glow, but I could actually see a visible reduction in puffiness and lines around the eyes. Contact Black Pearl SA: 071 777 7157

online @ probeauty.co.za

Treatment Review

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SA Brands

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through BREAK ON

TO THE OTHER SIDE

In Professional Beauty’s annual special feature on South African beauty brands, Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to companies that have successfully cracked the export market, regarding their challenges and strategies. DermaFix DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care began exporting to neighbouring countries in 2006. Managing director, Ursula Hunt, cites export compliance, safety data and correct labeling as being the main criteria in exporting. “Toxicologists identify potential hazards, like the percentages of active ingredients allowed within a cosmetic product and evaluate accordingly,” she explains. “Various countries specifically make the compliance process difficult in order to protect their local industries. This is especially noted within the European market, and in particular Spain.”

Hunt believes there is a distinct advantage in the export market due to the value in the exchange rate for the importers of DermaFix preparations. “We will continue to develop this side of our business for the mutual advantages between countries, with Africa being a close companion.” She notes that DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care is an evolution of successful formulations, presenting the benefit of the most up to date information on the various skin types, with problematic and ageing skin being a focus.

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SIX SIX Sensational Skincare’s first ever export was to Mozambique in 2014. “Our biggest challenge was training in a different language and forecasting salon orders with the distributor,” says MD Marisa Dimitriadis, who exports SIX to Angola, Mauritius and Zambia and is currently in discussions with Namibia, Sri Lanka, Kenya and Australia. Her goal is to secure exports to a European country this year. SIX is only sold through spa/salon professionals and not through any retail channels. “This offers value for money for the consumer and is highly profitable for the spa/ salon owner. We have the latest technology formulations. Our brand works with various different machines to enable better product penetration, such as galvanic and radiofrequency. We now also have our own state of the art Collagen Induction Therapy Pen,” comments Dimitriadis.

Bio Sculpture Gel Professional nail brand, Bio Sculpture Gel, began its export operations back in 1992, firstly to Australia, followed by Canada and England.

Says founder Elmien Scholtz: “The biggest challenges we faced were the differences in rules and regulations between countries, as what was accepted in one country was a total no-no in another. Nail gel was not known to the beauty industry then so it took great passion and energy to bulldoze this new way of looking at artificial nails into a fast growing segment in beauty care.” In total, Bio Sculpture is distributed in 25 countries, with the largest importers being Japan, UK, Canada, France, Israel, Russia and Sweden. “Croatia should be up and running within a few months. South Africa remains our darling country though,” comments Scholtz. As to the USPs of Bio Sculpture, Scholtz says: “We try to find the sweet spot where easy


and simple meet best quality and advanced application. With Bio Sculpture a nail technician can do very basic nail care but the system is designed for the welleducated technician who remains on top of new developments and procedures. Our other brand, Evo, is a straightforward one system gel polish for all nail types, with very little variation.”

RégimA To roll out a new brand in a foreign country has initial ups and downs, according to Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA, a skincare brand that is exported to all African countries and throughout Europe (with distribution hubs in Malta, Belgium, The Netherlands, Luxembourg, Poland, Italy and Lithuania). The US, New Zealand, Australia are now all growing markets for RégimA. Says Faucitt: “Europe is a prime example of the complex issues involved in export to that region as it has a multitude of languages, with each country wanting their particular language on the packaging, or they tend to ignore those products. Our EU packaging contains 15 languages. “It is critical to also ensure that the products undergo the rigorous and lengthy EU registration process, which is the strictest in the world. The EU does not allow animal testing whatsoever, thank goodness, whether on ingredients or finished products. Marketing a product in a new country is about developing relationships, which take time, effort and drive.” She describes the unique selling

SA Brands

39

points (USPs) of RégimA as it being exclusive to salons, spas and doctors, thus being loyal to therapists. RégimA is planning to export to Mauritius and has received enquiries from Russia, UAE, Israel and Reunion.

Calgel Cal-Mo has been exporting Calgel since 2009, however Calgel as a product, under the previous ownership, has been exporting to the UK since the early 1990s. The brand is exported to Japan, USA, Canada, France, Australia, Taiwan, Kazakhstan and Russia.

“Our biggest export challenges have been cosmetics regulation, pricing and education,” comments Calgel managing director, Daigo Yamamoto. “We are currently trying to export to Asia, Eastern Europe, Western Europe and South America.”

He notes that the brand’s USP is that it is a gentle, natural looking nail system with an easy soakoff formula that is now widely recognised the world over. Its porous nature allows oxygen to reach the nail plate. Calgel’s own training and examination system, which leads technicians to ‘Premier Status’ then ‘Educator Licence’, is supervised and certified by Calgel.

Spalicious Founded by Marisa Dimitriadis, Spalicious, was first exported in 2015, to Zambia. She continues: “It was challenging to get the salons/spas to buy in the brand as a whole brand and not just order bits and pieces. They don’t seem to understand why the brand should be stocked in full, like a skincare brand. Yet the body is as important a focus to the consumer as the face, especially considering the popularity of massage treatments.” Spalicious is now exported to Mauritius, Mozambique, Angola, Zambia, with discussions underway with Namibia, Kenya, Sri Lanka and Australia.

LTI Lillian Terry International (LTI) has been exporting to Dubai and the United Arab Emirates since 2000. Says LTI’s Derek Terry: “Getting the right distribution channels in place and adhering to the target countries’ import regulations and restrictions are always the main >

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SA Brands

40 challenges when entering a new international market.” LTI now also exports to Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, Ukraine, Namibia and Lesotho. The company is in the process of securing a distributor for Australia and New Zealand. Founded by the late Lilian Terry (clinical aromatherapist) and Dr Kateryna Tsvyetkova (MD, PhD, Homeopath), LTI formulates and manufactures homeopathic aromatherapy massage oil complexes for body and face as well as facial toners and gels, silicone LT Flexycups for cupping massage treatments and a range of body wraps.

La Van / Derca La Van Skin and Body Excellence System, the manufacturers and sole distributors of the awardwinning Proudly South African brand, Derca, has secured a distributor that imports and distributes the brand in Australia. It is also exported to Russia. “We have been showcasing the brand at international trade shows since 2015 and found our biggest challenge was competing against established brands with our limited financial support. The brand will be showcased in five countries this year. Our particular focus is on the USA, Spain, and Africa,” says founder Lurinda Swanepoel. She believes that the Derca brand stands out because of its competitive prices and active ingredients that target advanced skincare concerns such as acne, anti-ageing and pigmentation. Derca treats all skin types and ethnicity, making it viable for export.

Milk Solutions

The appropriate registration of its products was costly and timeous for Milk Solutions when it started exporting to the UK, because the brand has such a large range. Milk Solutions currently also exports to Ireland, Zambia and The Maldives. In line with its plan to grow the EU market, Milk Solutions recently opened up a distribution office in the UK to facilitate the flow of stock into this territory. As to the brand’s USPs, Milk Solutions, which has four ranges of paraben-free specialist manicure and pedicure products, combines traditional and nontraditional beauty ingredients with advanced scientific technologies and processes to deliver effective, visible results.

Franck.” Because the EU market is very mature, we need to always look ahead and set trends to retain brand recognition in a market with strong international giants.” Exports first began in 2012, to Norway and Sweden and a year later to Denmark, Estonia and Namibia. Kalahari now also exports to Kenya and has set up distribution networks in the Netherlands, Belgium and Mozambique. Franck believes Kalahari Lifestyle stands out in the natural skin care category as an ethical brand that offers highly effective, quality products which allow for an unforgettable sensory African experience. Formulations feature various exotic African botanical oils and extracts, such as Kigelia Africana (sausage tree extract), Kalahari melon seed oil, Devil’s Claw Root and Mongongo oil, among others.

Kalahari Lifestyle

CSpa

Conforming to the strict EU regulations for each individual country in the region proved challenging for Kalahari Lifestyle, known for its range of authentic African spa and body products. “Translations have to be done on every product, including marketing and education material,” says founder Carina

CSpa Aroma Wellness has been exporting into Africa for two years, with its main focus being Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Kenya, Seychelles, Zambia, Angola, Namibia, Swaziland, Malawi and Congo. This year the brand will expand into Nigeria.

The brand embraces the Sub-Saharan Africa ‘millennial ingredient’ of Aloe Vera as one of the cornerstone extracts in its ranges. PB

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41 Hair News

Crowning GLORY

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Whipped cream From Nativechild, the Shea Butter Cream is a luxurious blend of high quality oils that include 100% raw shea butter, grapeseed oil, olive oil and aloe vera gel. The concentration of vitamins and fatty acids in this completely natural product makes it ideal for dry, brittle and fragile natural hair.

New moves at Henkel

011 475 0551

Michael Dobie has been appointed as Country Manager at Henkel Beauty Care Professional.

Rigorous revamp Hannon has announced the revamp of its Colour Infusion range. Now the copper, platinum and red infusion hair products are available in glossy bottles of orange, cherry and deep purple, all preserving the original formula.

011 608 4065

Says Dobie: “I have spent the last 10 years working in the beauty industry. It is such a dynamic industry, filled with passionate people and beautiful brands. In my role as country manager I would like to see our brands – Schwarzkopf Professional, Indola and Ladine – as well as our people, focus on our customer centric approach to service. It is an exciting time to be in the industry, a time for partnerships to flourish.”

Spectacular spiral The new invisibobble SLIM spiral hair bracelet comes in four colours: Crystal Clear, True Black, Chrome Sweet Chrome and Bronze Me Pretty. It can be used to create a bouncy ponytail or a voluminous bun, without causing any damage to the hair. In case the invisibobble begins to lose shape, pour hot water over it and it will shrink to its original size.

021 448 8847

online @ probeauty.co.za


Medical Aesthetics

42

The daily

VITAMAN BOOST Topical Vitamin C plays a key role in the recovery of the skin following resurfacing treatments and is essential to maintaining a healthy and glowing skin, writes Karen Ellithorne.

T

he skin is the largest organ of the body and it is more than a mere protective barrier. Skin serves to excrete metabolic waste products, regulate body temperature and also contains nerve endings enabling us to feel sensation and protect us from pain. Like all organs of the body, the health and appearance of our skin will reflect the kind of lifestyle and dietary habits we follow. Unfortunately, unlike the other organs of the body which also age, our skin is visible and clearly exhibits the consequence of ageing. While the body and skin will age naturally at a genetically predetermined rate, there are many factors in the exterior

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Like all organs of the body, the health and appearance of our skin will reflect the kind of lifestyle and dietary habits we follow. environment that will enhance this process and cause premature ageing. The type of lifestyle we follow and our body’s general health will pay a large role in how quickly we age. When our bodies are exposed to adverse energies such as sunlight or inflammation caused by toxins, harmful free radicals are formed. A large percentage of premature ageing, especially

in South Africa, is caused by exposure to UV light. Other culprits are environmental pollution, poor diet, smoking, alcohol, excessive exercise and stress. In overweight people, blood sugar levels have been raised thus resulting in an imbalance in the normal biochemical reactions of the skin. This will start to disrupt the collagen and elastin structure of the dermis, causing premature ageing.

What is a free radical? A free radical is a charged atom looking to take over and change the molecular structures of other atoms, so causing damage and disease. Oxygen free radicals or reactive oxygen species (ROS) are largely responsible for tissue damage on the skin. The


Medical Aesthetics

43 attacks can cause severe tissue damage. In order to prevent ageing it is important that we try and follow a healthy diet filled with fruit and vegetables and to apply an anti-oxidant to our skins on a daily basis to prevent photoageing occurring on the skin.

Role of Vitamin C in the epidermis formation of ROS occurs when the body is exposed to extreme energy sources such as sunlight or heat. The atom loses an electron from its outer orbit and becomes electrically charged. This charged atom will then go in search of another atom or molecule from which to steal an electron and in doing so begins a cascade of damage which leads to cellular damage and possible DNA mutations within the cell nucleus. This will lead to deterioration of the body’s tissues and, in the case of the skin, will lead to a breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermis and damage to the epidermis. The result will be irregular reproduction of keratinocytes and melanocytes leading to irregular pigmentation. Photo ageing is the result of free radical attack and will lead to hyperpigmentation, loss of dermal integrity, the formation of fine lines and wrinkles and possible cancerous mutations.

What are antioxidants? An antioxidant is an atom that can neutralise free radicals by donating the lost electron and therefore rendering the free radical harmless. The body can normally protect itself from free radical attack from its own immunity reserves but if the attack becomes excessive, or if the person is unhealthy or more mature, these

Vitamin C is one of the most important antioxidants for the body. This is due to the fact that ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is water soluble and our bodies are composed of 70% water. It’s important to note that Vitamin C plays a vital role in reducing sunburn from exposure to sunlight. This is due to the fact that it can be absorbed into the cells and does not sit superficially on the top, making it very effective in reducing the effects of UV radiation many days after absorption. Vitamin C is also a tyrosinase inhibitor, which means it will slow down the production of melanin. This is why you will often find it as an ingredient in skin lightening products. Besides all of the above benefits, Vitamin C plays an important role in the formation of healthy collagen, which is essential for healthy, firm, hydrated skin.

Penetration of Vitamin C It is very difficult to get ascorbic acid to penetrate through the skin’s horny layer due to the fact that ascorbic acid is a water based molecule and this layer of the skin is lipid based. Whatever ascorbic acid does manage to get through the horny layer of the skin and penetrate the deeper layers is still not easily penetrated into the cells themselves. This is why you will find more lipid soluble versions of Vitamin C used in product formulations,

namely ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, which are more easily absorbed and penetrated into the epidermal cells. Once the ingredient has penetrated, it converts back to active ascorbic acid in the cytoplasm of the cell.

Different versions of Vitamin C Ascorbic acid: This can be found as an active ingredient in cosmetics but is used more as an antioxidant for the product itself rather than for the skin. It is not a very stable form of Vitamin C. Ascorbic acid cannot be used in high enough doses to get the best results on the skin. It is a water based ingredient. Magnesium (sodium) ascorbyl phosphate: this version of Vitamin C is found in products developed for sensitive and pigmented skins. The sodium salt in this ingredient is also a good conductor of an electric current, so you will often find it in treatment gels that you use with electric currents. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate: this is a very stable form of Vitamin C. It ensures the highest level of penetration of Vitamin C into the cells as it is a lipid based ingregredient. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is very safe to use on the most delicate, sensitive skins. It is a great ingredient for treating uneven tone, as well as ageing, lined and problematic skin. PB

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za


44 Product Focus

Awash with

ingredients With the winter months approaching, it is imperative for therapists to use only hydrating cleansers that do not strip the skin of moisture during in-salon facials. Such richly formulated cleansers should also be recommended for home care.

All in the numbers

Logical solution

Cleansers in the SIX Sensational Skincare range are formulated to include hydrating ingredients. The SIX Flawless Cleansing Oil is enriched with essential oils, while Gentle Foaming Face Wash contains apricot and papaya fruit extract. Velvety Soft Cleanser has jojoba and shea butter, and Glycolic Acid 8% Face Wash, coconut oil and Vitamins E and C.

011 312 7840

From SKNlogic, the SKNgentle cleanse cream cleanses without disrupting the skin’s moisture barrier. It hydrates the skin and contains no parabens, sulphates, synthetic fragrance and synthetic colourants, lanolin derivatives, mneral oil or MITs. Ingredients include fig extract, proteolytic enzymes, sunflower oil, olive oil and Vsitamins C and E.

021 552 6999

Milky formula

Gently, gently

The Black Pearl Refreshing Cleansing Milk is a nourishing and luxurious product that is perfectly pH balanced to protect and hydrate the skin. Ideal for dry and dehydrated skins, the rich milk texture and infusion of antioxidant melon provides silky and cocooning nourishment for the skin.

Free of sodium lauryl sulphate, which is often associated with superficial dehydration, the DermaFix Gentle Cleansing Gel is a foaming cleanser that gently yet effectively cleanses the skin, removing superficial dirt and debris without stripping the skin of vital moisture.

082 560 0262

0861 28 23 23

online @ probeauty.co.za


Perfect balance The Skinergy Balance Cleansing Facial Milk is suitable for all skin conditions and types. Created with nourishing sweet almond oil and shea butter, it lifts impurities and creates a radiant effect on the skin. The cleanser contains a potent blend of coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin E to inhibit skin lipid oxidation, as well as microalgae active components for a tightening effect.

012 804 6443

Power play Pevonia’s Power Repair Hydrating Cleanser gently and effectively removes make-up and impurities. The skin is hydrated with this creamy cleanser that rinses clean and is a vital first step to prevent and repair the first signs of ageing. It contains jonquil flower extract, marine collagen and marine elastin.

011 238 7080

Product Focus

45


Multi-platform Devices

46

AESTHETIC EQUIPMENT

versatility REACHES NEW HEIGHTS

With more and more medical aesthetics clinics opening all over South Africa, as well as an increasing number of beauty salons offering aesthetic treatments, it’s important to select a versatile device that can deliver the best results for the client’s various indications.

A

ccording to Raymond Schoeman of The Laser College, multiplatform lasers have become very popular over the past few years. “It’s easy to understand why,” he continues. “For instance, the set-up cost for a laser clinic is very high and most start-up clinics can only afford one machine. It is therefore necessary to make the most of your equipment. However, the decision whether to go with a multi-platform unit or a single task unit is not to be taken lightly. The first thing to consider is which treatments you would like to provide to your client.

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“Your next step is to look at your potential clients – will the equipment you want be suitable for the skin types of your clients? Another factor to consider is whether you want to grow your business as a lifestyle business, where you will only have one treatment room, but want the capability to add more modules to enable more types of treatments. For this, a multiplatform unit may be the perfect solution but ensure that you put yourself in a position where you can make an informed decision.”

Smart investment Andrew Best of Best Lasers, distributors of the Harmony XL Pro from Alma Lasers, believes that when you invest in multiplatform devices, you invest in a platform that offers you the opportunity to start your aesthetic laser services with a highly demanded technology. “For example, you could start with Diode technology for hair removal and at a later stage invest in technologies that you have realised are in demand. Often clients don’t realise the demand for multi-platforms until they start explaining to their customers what else the system could possibly offer. And in this way, they enter a market they didn’t realise was possible for their business. “Furthermore, when investing in multiplatform devices, you

as a salon are able to capture your clients’ entire aesthetic laser spending vs them going to separate service providers for hair removal and anti-ageing laser treatments”. He summarises the opportunities that investing in a multi-platform device can offer, namely an array of service offerings; the chance to capitalise on ‘aesthetic laser’ spending; and the ability to expand in salon by entering new treatment categories. Best Lasers’ sister company, Best Enterprise, offers the Formatk Range of devices.


Optical energy

Multi-platform Devices

47

Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, the elĂľs Plus from Syneron provides a full range of the most in demand treatments. The system uses the revolutionary elĂľs technology, a combination of optical energy (which is either laser or pulsed light) and radiofrequency (RF) energy to deliver safe and efficacious treatments to all skin types. elĂľs Plus is fully upgradeable and each clinic can create their system according to their needs as one can choose between 15 different applicators, for painless hair removal, anti-ageing, scar and texture treatments, skin rejuvenation, acne, vascular lesions and leg veins. This system is believed to be the only one in the world to offer complete painless hair removal treatments with different size applicators to choose from. One of the biggest advantages of the fractional rejuvenation treatments is that they can be used on all skin types, which is a huge benefit and a massive market. Also from Radiant Healthcare, the Lavatron is a muti-platform RF device for skin tightening and lifting, RF being non-invasive and suitable for all skin types. The Lavatron uses two types of technologies: Mono-polar RF (for centimetre loss, firming and lifting on the body, reduction of pockets of fat and cellulite); and Bi-Polar RF (for skin tightening and lifting on the face, anti-ageing and wrinkle reduction). CE medically approved, Lavatron has an inbuilt thermometer to control the temperature > during treatments.

online @ probeauty.co.za


Multi-platform Devices

48 Full support Venus Concept’s Gary Price, notes that potential clients must be aware of the supplier’s status in terms of their ability to back product and whether the supplier is a global player with professional technology. In addition, devices must have good clinical results. “Once these basic boxes have been ticked, it is important to turn your attention both inward at your business and outward at your market,” comments Price. “This means an assessment of the treatments that brought you past success, the strengths and skills available in your current team and practical things such as available space. Then, consider whether your patients/clients are asking for new treatments, or perhaps various treatments that are device based. Is there a drop in business as a result of not being able to offer more than one service? “There are always new and varied treatments and our public is highly informed. With the wide variety of indications and insecurities that patients want treated, aesthetic clinics are under pressure to make sure that they can offer the widest range of treatments they can to keep up with demand. By installing a multi-platform device, all of the most in-demand technology is at the device operator’s fingertips.”

RF and ultrasound combo Exilis Elite from BTL is a multiplatform device that uses a specific RF combined with ultrasound waves, both delivered simultaneously, for the volume reduction and re-contouring of problem body areas as well as

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the remodeling and rejuvenation of facial features, offering skin tightening benefits, tissue volume, tone, elasticity and reduction of wrinkles. It can also be used for vaginal rejuvenation.

Intense portfolio Laserderm has introduced InMode, which offers a portfolio of treatments covering the most popular aesthetic procedures patients demand.

InMode has been peerreviewed over 50 times in scientific publications and has revolutionary non-invasive options for fractional skin resurfacing and contraction (Fractora); skin tightening (Forma); IPL photofacial for skin pigmentation and vascular lesions (Lumecca), cellulite reduction/body contouring and minimally-invasive RF lipolysis (BodyFX).

30 conditions Distributed by Hitech Lasers, M22 is a modular multi-application platform for the treatment of over 30 skin conditions, as well as hair removal. M22’s basic platform is equipped with the Universal IPL module and all others can be bought separately. Universal IPL, Multi-Spot Nd: YAG and ResurFX modules incorporate a cooling mechanism that provides continuous contact cooling to the treatment area. The Q-switched Nd: YAG

treatment does not involve direct contact to the treatment area. Equipped with the most advanced and requested technologies, the Viora V30 from Medilase is specifically designed to meet a comprehensive array of aesthetic applications. The five hand pieces on V30 include the V-Laser Nd:YAG (for vascular lesions, nail fungi, skin rejuvenation); V-IPL (IPL hair removal, skin rejuvenation, pigmentation lesions, vascular lesions and acne clearance); V-ST (skin tightening); V-FR (fractional RF resurfacing with Switching-Vacuum-Cooling, skin rejuvenation and acne scar clearance); and V-FORM (noninvasive body contouring and skin tightening).

Thermocoagulation Distributed by The Laser Beautique, the Apilus device not only offers the only 100% FDA approved permanent hair removal for any skin type and any hair colour, but also includes thermocoagulation to treat many different skin anomalies, including skin tags, molluscum pendulums, milia, cherry angiomas and telangiectasia. Four different hand pieces (the Vitaphases)can be incorporated into facial treatments. These include Stimulomassage with Microcurrent, Lonomassage, Infrared and Light Therapy for acne. PB


Investing in Multi-Platform Devices: Offer Offer various various treatment treatment solutions solutions by by investing investing in in single single platforms platforms Get Get clients clients to to spend spend their their entire entire “Aesthetic “Aesthetic Laser” Laser” spending spending with with you you Expand Expand your your salon salon by by entering entering new, new, & & unplanned unplanned for, for, feasible feasible treatment treatment categories categories

T: T: +27 +27 (0)12 (0)12 998 998 8844 8844 E: E: reception@bestlasers.co.za reception@bestlasers.co.za W: W: www.bestlasers.co.za www.bestlasers.co.za

Best Best Enterprise Enterprise Enhance the Aesthetic Enhance the Aesthetic

The The Magma Magma is is aa multi-platform multi-platform system system that that hosts: hosts:

Diode Laser IPL Nd:YAG

Allowing Allowing you you to to treat: treat: Hair Hair removal removal Active Active acne acne Vascular Vascular lesions lesions Photorejuvenation Photorejuvenation Pigmented Pigmented lesions lesions Skin Skin whitening whitening Nail Nail fungus fungus

online @ probeauty.co.za T: T: +27 +27 (0)12 (0)12 998 998 8844 8844 E: E: admin@bestent.co.za admin@bestent.co.za W: W: www.bestent.co.za www.bestent.co.za


Product Newss

50

market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments.

On the spot Depilève has unveiled Soft Bright, the first paraffin treatment with lightening effect. This revolutionary treatment targets dark spots (hyperpigmentation) and brings out the skin’s radiance. With Depilève Soft Bright, which is formulated with Gatuline Spot Light, White Mulberry and Alpha-Arbutin, hands will recuperate their pampered, moisturised look.

011 888 9044

Lash & brow perfection

Terrific trilogy The RVB SkinLab Icon Time Trilogy Anti-Age Serum Kit is an intensive anti-age treatment kit consisting of three highly concentrated anti-age serum oils to fight static and photo-ageing by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, to counteract the formation of fine lines and wrinkles for a silky soft youthful radiance.

021 701 2900 online @ probeauty.co.za

The new RefectoCil Styling Gel protects eyebrows and lashes, delivers enriching care and provides colour protection for tinted brows and lashes. Its complex care formula contains a highquality composition of ingredients including vitamin E, d-panthenol and glycerine, providing the perfect balance of care, moisture and gloss for lashes and brows.

082 575 6567


51

Dual action

A very ‘Skinny’ tea Skinny Green Tea is a natural weight loss product that consists of only three powerful ingredients. Apart from green tea, the product contains Zychrome, a specific chromium complex that assists in regulating blood sugar levels. The third ingredient is Cardiaslim, clinically shown to promote weight loss and increase the metabolism of fat.

086 0001 8022

Product News

LumiSpa ageLOC is a dual action skincare system that provides profound cleansing, as well as exclusive, new skin smoothing benefits in a single application. It is the first device on the market to use proprietary textured silicone geometry to optimise product benefits. LumiSpa heads were specially designed to accommodate various skin types.

+ 27 83 636 5307

Dynamic duo Dermalogica’s UltraCalming Duo treats the irritation and dehydration caused by sensitive skin. The Barrier Defense Booster is a concentrated oil booster that soothes and nourishes to restore balance to sensitive skin, while Calm Water Gel features Dual Hyaluronic Acid technology and transforms into a skinquenching fluid upon application.

011 268 0018

One software solution for all your daily operations Record sales and track stock

Track and control employees

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An Official Product by SpaGuru™ Software Solutions | www.spaguru.co.za

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Manage your appointments


Business Trends

52

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Be skin-confident

“Confident skin will always be in”

Beauty Salon?

Be Bold Be Gold

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Finally Lamarie now affords you the opportunity to become a stockist of our uniquely formulated skin care range. A great professional knows, confident skin will always be in.

Celebrate your Right to beautiful skin. #LamarieSA

www.lamarie.co.za 010 597 7105


Issue 19

Mar/Apr 2018

Autumnal hues Latest seasonal colours

Qualifications quandary Training & accreditation unpacked

Shutterstock

Great expectations What support to get from suppliers

online @ probeauty.co.za


I

t was wonderful to receive so many entries for NailFile’s first ever Photographic Nail Design Challenge, themed ‘Pop Art’. What was even more wonderful was seeing all the amazing, creative and fabulous sets of nails! The competing nail techs clearly tapped into their inner artists and delivered beautiful work that stuck to the theme. Issue 19 Mar/Apr 201 While we only have space to feature the Top 3 in this issue, sincere congratulations 8 to all the other entrants for their excellent work. In our Ask the Experts section, we focus on a very important topic – what salon owners should expect from their product suppliers. Going beyond the obvious requirement of timely and efficient delivery of orders, product suppliers should stay in touch with their clients on a regular basis and offer support in terms of marketing and Autumnal hues Latest sea sonal salon promotions. colours Qualificat ions Our Salon Focus in this issue is on Danté Express, the winner of the 2017 quandary Training & accred itation Professional Beauty Award for Best Nail Salon. Co-owner Jade Brooks reveals her unpacked formula for a successful business and her emphasis on ensuring staff remain happy G repoat expec What sup tations rt to get from in their working environment. suppliers The subject of our Top Tech Talk for this edition of NailFile, Salome Mokgale, has an inspirational story to tell – she has been at the same Pretoria salon for 20 years and evolved from being a cleaner to an in-demand nail tech. An amazing achievement to be sure. Shutterstock

Welcome

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online @

probeauty.c o.za

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

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News

Style Savvy

Top Tech Talk

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64

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Ask the Experts

Nail Nurture – Part 2

Training & Accreditation

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Salon Focus

Product Hub

Stay in the know

What to expect from product suppliers

Deluxe & on-trend: Danté Express online @ probeauty.co.za

When autumn leaves fall

Damaging the nail through harsh techniques

The latest launches

Salome Mokgale

Are you properly qualified?


55 Business Trends News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Milk Solutions launches Inner Circle

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he Milk Solutions Inner Circle platform has been created to acknowledge stockists who are committed to actively promoting the brand’s line of professional and retail manicure and pedicure products. Says Milk Solutions founder, Karen Ellithorne: “Traders register for membership of the Inner Circle and then accrue benefits, including comprehensive Milk Solutions offerings for their customers, as well as mitigation of risks associated with carrying high levels of retail stock. In addition, their salons are listed on milksolutionsbeauty.com and receive increased exposure

through all Milk Solutions social media and marketing campaigns. “Inner Circle traders receive monthly complementary product training for nail technicians and guidance on branding and promotions.” Ellithorne points out that these unique Inner Circle benefits also provide the customer with significant advantages. “Inner Circle members are able to provide the latest quality treatments for their customers, while also guaranteeing superior treatment results. Clients can purchase their own Milk Solutions products through Inner Circle retailers, which are then dispatched directly from Milk

Solutions to the client in an exquisite, personalised gift box, within two or three working days. These purchases are all tracked and linked to the Inner Circle member salon’s account.”

Wondernail rebrands as Brand Addicts South Africa and Africa. I am committed to building the business and Jodie and I aim to revolutionise the nail and beauty industry in South Africa and Africa, one salon at a time.” The Brand Addicts warehouse is based in Greenstone, East Rand.

News in pictures

The newly formed Brand Addicts represents the partnership between Dina Katakuzinos of Wondernail and Jodie Forsyth, formerly of The Prestige Cosmetics Group (PCG) and prior to that, Twincare International. Brand Addicts is the distributor of EzFlow, TruGel, Kinetics, DK Signature Line, Wondernail and Backscratches. Says Forsyth, who has 16 years of experience in the industry: “After leaving PCG I decided to take some time off to decide what I wanted to do next. I happened to go to a spa and Dina was there as well, so the spa owner introduced us and we started chatting and hit it off immediately.” Katakuzinos is currently celebrating her eighth year in the industry. “It is my ambition to stock our Brand Addicts premium brands in salons throughout

Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS) recently held an event at The Venue in Green Park, Sandton to introduce CND’s latest offering, Creative Play Gel Polish, to the market. Pictured is Oksana van Tonder of EBS’ nails division.

online @ probeauty.co.za


Photographic Nail Design Product Challenge News

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A

ll entries can be sent in via email and will feature in the next issue with the name of the winner who will also receive a prize from a participating sponsor. At the end of the year, all the winning entries will be looked at once again and the overall winner will be chosen. Winners will receive a one-year free subscription to Professional Beauty & NailFile and exposure in the magazine as well as a prize from the participating sponsor. • The designs must be created according to the theme. • All 10 of the model’s nails must have a gel polish creation on them, each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another, be consistent in design and flow throughout all 10 nails. • Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work and not copied. • Please provide a brief step by step of your work. • Photos must be submitted by no later than the 30th of April 2018. • Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za • The judges decision is final.

online @ probeauty.co.za


Franks triumphs in first ever NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenge

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ebora Franks of Debora Nail Art in Pretoria is the winner of NailFile’s first ever Photographic Nail Design Challenge, which was themed ‘Pop Art’. Franks wowed the judges with her precise technique, intricate artistic design and overall outstanding presentation, as well as the ingenious way that she incorporated her very own theme (the drought) within the ‘Pop Art’ concept. Franks explains: “I did research on the pop art technique and saw that people used comic book art in that era to tell a story or present a message with little words. So I decided to design a message, i.e. nails with meaning. Our country has been struggling with drought for about four years now. Some parts of South Africa don’t think that prayer is the answer. My set of nails gives a message of what is the solution. If we start to believe again, things will change.” It was a close race for the second and third spots in the NailFile Nail Design Challenge, with stunning work from both Nadia Erasmus of Nadz Hope & Beauty in Cape Town and Nonna-Mari Greyvenstein. In the end Erasmus placed second, with Greyvenstein third. The story of Erasmus’ design starts with girls chatting about a couple that is meeting up and them ending up together, while Greyvenstein’s inspiration was – ‘February, the month of love’ – and her theme throughout was ‘love in an explosive way’. Says competition director Sonette van Rensburg: “We were thrilled with the entries that we received for our first ever Nail Design Challenge.

I think everyone put a lot of effort into their designs. They kept to the ‘Pop Art’ theme and the quality and the standard of the work and design was exceptional. “Our top three were chosen for the detail that went into their

work and presentations. Nail artists like this are here to push other nail techs to excel in the art of nail design.” The NailFile ‘Pop Art’ Nail Design Challenge was proudly sponsored by Calgel.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends News

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Business

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ask

the experts

QUESTION: What should I expect from my product suppliers? TANIA BIDDLE The amount of competition in the beauty industry nowadays can create confusion for the technician or business owner as to which brand is the right choice for their salon. Online ordering has become one of the most popular methods of efficient order placement. If you choose online ordering make sure that you have been in contact with your sales rep or had training on all the latest product launches. To ensure a safely delivered treatment for the client and technician, it’s of the utmost importance that the technician is sufficiently trained and equipped with enough practical and

theoretical knowledge of the product in question. A supplier should notify their existing client base, as well as potential new clients, of any new products available and should arrange to book the technician for training if necessary. Communication should be carried out by the supplier on a regular basis. The client should be able to reach the supplier easily via email or telephonically. If a product is temporarily out of stock, the supplier should notify the client on ordering so that they can plan accordingly. Timely delivery is expected from suppliers to avoid

Tania Biddle is the owner of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort and head of education for Bio Sculpture Gel.

online @ probeauty.co.za

unnecessary setbacks in the daily operations of a business. With each delivery the client should be issued with accurate and compliant Tax Invoices, and account statements should be readily available at all times. Often suppliers will create incentives and reward programmes for their longstanding and regular clientele. This is a great way for the supplier to give back to their clients but also for the client to grow that specific brand in their business.


YVETTE NEL Your supplier should be your ‘professional-best-friend’, as they need to have your back and form a great part of your business success. Suppliers obviously already provide education on the products they supply, however the training must be professional and thorough, with the required National and International accredited certification. It’s vital that suppliers also include technical support because your service, retail products or customer concerns, issues and challenges such as service breakdowns, nail disorders or nail diseases, should never be a random question posted on any social media platform (closed groups or not). This results in individual, unprofessional opinions from the fellow nail and beauty ‘professionals’.

Instead, refer back to your educational materials or better yet, contact your suppliers. They should assist you in salon promotions for existing stock, as well as for new product activation. This must be uniquely customised to meet your requirements. Suppliers should also keep you up to date with the latest trends, as well as provide educational days for new releases. This inspires enthusiasm and excitement in the salon. I believe your suppliers should be in regular contact with owners/ management once a month minimum. Your sales representative needs to do on site visits at least four times per year. Suppliers should make marketing

materials available. Certain suppliers conduct salon performance reviews – request this from your supplier as a business is not able to move forward if it doesn’t know where it came from.

Yvette Nel is a diverse nail, health and beauty influencer with 14 years of experience in nail/beauty salons,education, marketing, retail and distribution. Nel is the founder of Trend Mi Life.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Throughout my career and after years of owning my own salons and working as a nail tech and educator, I have used many different brands and products. Some I used for many years and others came and went. So, what are the reasons for staying loyal to a product or brand? With so many good professional products and brands available it can become quite confusing as to which to choose. You will probably also use more than one and there is nothing wrong with that as long as you don’t mix and match between systems. Making the right choice depends on several things beyond just quality of product. Trust & reliability: We are all different in the way we connect with people and react to their behaviour. Building a relationship is very important. Having a supplier who is reliable is vital because if you are expecting something from them, they must deliver on time. Professionalism: Make sure you

only deal with professional brands and products, and also professional people, especially regarding their knowledge of the brand and products they are trying to sell to you. Check that they are reputable; always follow up and research the information you are given by a supplier through the internet. Use google to read product and company reviews. Education & training: This is vitally important as even if you or your staff are qualified and well trained, you always want to make sure the suppliers you use offer training support. Each and every product has its own protocols so the supplier should offer training to ensure correct use. Some suppliers may charge for training so you need to evaluate what they offer and decide whether it’s worth it. I believe you can’t place a price on good professional training and education; it’s an investment in your career and business. Marketing & after sales support: Not all suppliers offer marketing

support but it is important if you want to promote your services and the products you are using or retailing. Even support in the form of in house salon events, being able to purchase posters, leaflets or brochures is better than nothing. Get your suppliers involved and express your needs. After sales support is just as important; there is nothing worse than a sales rep who has sold you a whole lot of products and then you never see them again, or there is a rapid turnover of sales reps within a company. This would cause me to question the company’s stability. Be extremely careful about purchasing your professional products from unauthorised online suppliers, as you never know what you’re going to get and whether the product is authentic. Plus you won’t get any after sales or training support, and there’s no absolutely no recourse should anything go wrong.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business

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Salon Focus

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Deluxe

&

on-trend

Joanna Sterkowicz talks to Jade Brooks, co-owner of Danté Express, winner of the 2017 Professional Beauty Award for Best Nail Salon, about how maintaining a happy staff contributes to the on-going success of the business.

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anté Express was conceived when business partners Jade Brooks and Teresa Stefanutti needed a solution to accommodate the overflow of nail treatments from their main spa, Danté Wellness, in Cape Town’s Sea Point. “This was back in October 2012,” says Brooks, “and since then we have managed to grow the nail business by keeping up with the latest nail trends and technologies and by offering constant, exceptional service. Customer service and treatment standards are our main priority. Everything we do is because we care about each and every client.” Brooks is a firm believer that if you look after your staff, they will look after your clients. She continues: “With any service based company, your standards

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and reputations are in the hands of those who are delivering them. This is never fixed and can always change, in both a positive and negative way. Thus, to ensure that standards remain constantly high, we attract and retain good staff who can deliver what we have

set out to do. At Danté we have created a strong work ethos. We believe in family, trust and respect; we understand that not everyone thinks about the business 24/7 and that everyone has a life outside of the working hours. “Our staff are encouraged to get to know each other and show an interest. One of the things I ask any new member of the team during their first month at Danté is to tell me one thing about each and every person in the group. If they are unable to answer me, then they have to go and make conversation and get to know everyone.” This strategy has developed a friendly and giving environment. “You can see that we care and we also like to have fun with our clients,” comments Brooks. “Our team totals 37 females working closely together each day. I receive compliments each week


Business SalonTrends Focus

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from clients and suppliers who tell me they can feel the positive energy when they come in. We are constantly working with the team to ensure that they feel respected and valued.”

Bespoke treatments In a unique innovation, Danté Express allows clients to compile their own bespoke treatment menu. Brooks explains: “We found that with our original Danté Wellness Spa, many clients did not always need or want the standard manicure and pedicure treatment. Thus we wanted to give the client the option to choose what they actually want to have done. This has proved very successful as for most people, time is a priority and so opting for bespoke treatments saves the clients both time and money. Implementing this policy has enabled us to book more clients per column and increase revenue per column.” There is a combination of 20 full time nail techs within the

Danté group and eight columns dedicated to the nail bar. By having a large team of nail techs Brooks has the flexibility to accommodate large group bookings at either the Nail Bar or the Wellness Spa for clients who would like to have mani and pedi treatments simultaneously.

Easy accessibility Because a lot of the Danté Express clients work, Brooks feels it is important that the salon is accessible for them on either side of the working day. “It is one less thing to try and fit into a Saturday. This also gives us the ability to be closed on Sundays, which I’ve found is very important to most of the girls within our Danté team so that they can be with their families.” The Mani Bar has docking stations for cell phones and free wifi as many of the salon’s clients are either working, or have small

children at home, or juggling both, so there is a need for constant connection on their cellphones

Uplifting the industry Brooks believes that by working together, the industry can strengthen and uplift itself. “We sometimes forget that we are all human; we can have good days and bad days but we choose to work in this industry, a service based industry. So, if you do not believe in putting your staff and clients before anything else, I suggest you take a moment to reflect why you are actually doing what you are doing. “Find your passion and make it happen. Do what you love and you’ll never have to ‘work’ another day,” she states.

online @ probeauty.co.za


When autumn leaves fall… Sonette van Rensburg looks at the latest shades for the coming season.

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ith the autumn / winter season not particularly being a favourite time of year for most, it usually doesn’t make me all that excited about the colours for the upcoming chilly season. That is until the enigmatic Ultra Violet purple surprised us all and made its appearance as the Pantone shade for 2018, proving to be totally unlike the shades of previous years, being more esoteric and out there. As the leaves begin to fall and gather on the ground, creating a fusion of autumnal hues, it’s a sure sign that the chill is almost here. Yet there is something so calming

and warming about the burst and blanket of colours covering the earth that are perfectly representative of the season’s very out of the ordinary nail fashion palette, which is all but insipid. Full of expression, the compilation showcases a colourful array of gorgeous rich, bright and bold autumnal and winter hues that emanate a distinct touch of class and sophistication in each and every shade. The theme for this year’s Pantone collection focuses strongly around a carefree and self-expressive tone, steering away from the colours we usually see during this season. Nail lengths are either much shorter with square, oval and more

wearable shapes, or long with almond or stiletto silhouettes. Besides Pantone’s magical Ultra Violet, a rich elaborate purple around which many other gradients of purple have been created around, such as Crocus Petal, a sprightly lilac shade, to deeper more intense shades of indigo and grape, other startling and unanticipated colours make their debut for the season in variants of metallics, glitters, subtle shimmers, gloss and matt. It’s no surprise that classic and sexy

www.pantone.com

Style Savvy

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online @ probeauty.co.za


Style Savvy

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Gelish Matadora

Jawbreaker

Steampubk Affair Oh my GOG-les

Tawny Taupe

Red Dress shades of red are always present, with Red Pear an unfathomable, juicy and tempting deep red and Valiant Poppy, an alluring yet charming vibrant bright apple red. Other very notable unconventional and unexpected choices of brighter shades are making their appearance for the season, like Limelight, a lively and vibrant, stimulating yellow-green that demands attention, and Ceylon Yellow, a pungent and piquant yellow adding a touch of spiciness. Demonstrative of autumn leaves fallen from the trees, Russet Orange conveys a comfortable and unpretentious warmth. Blue is back, cool and

Young Nails Fall Collection

Hazy Forest gel polish

New set of autumn colours expressive, with Nebulas Blue making an astonishing arrival in brilliant enthusiastic pure blue, to a more serious nautical navy blue, Sargasso Sea, which is like an infinite night sky. More earthy tones are still current in Martini Olive, a suave but stylish urbane green that adds complexity, for an impeccable combination. Quetzal Green is a profound blue-green hue, fluent and indicative of lush verdures. The addition of four core shades that are modest and inconspicuous more than complete this stunning colour palette; with neutral shades that complement just about every colour in the spectrum. Tofu – a

Creamy Cafe au Lait

Diamonds and Dreams AnythingGlows dreamy white that is always an essential; Almond Buff – a subtle, buttery taupe hue with a modest charm; Quiet Gray – an easygoing, unobtrusive and enduring delicate grey; and Meerkat – a versatile and pleasant burnished brown. Wow! A nail stylist’s dream; a plethora of the most exquisite, exhilarating colours that anyone could wish for to experiment with. No wonder colour blocking is making a huge comeback for the upcoming seasons. However it doesn’t limit you to mix, blend and create the trendiest, coolest nail looks.

online @ probeauty.co.za


Nail Health

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Nail Nurture – Part 2: THE HEALTH AND GROWTH of the

natural nail There are certain things that affect the nail that are out of our control, but the one we have most control of is damaging the natural nail plate through improper practices and harsh techniques, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

I

have been looking so forward to writing the second part of this Nail Nurture series, as it is something that is affecting our industry in a very negative way and there is absolutely no need for it. In the last issue of NailFile, we spoke about the various different things which can affect the natural nail’s health and growth and we will be elaborating on each of these throughout the series this year. You would think that with so much advancement in our industry, information and proper training being available to us that this would not be an issue, but sadly and unfortunately it is a growing and very concerning one. However, it can most definitely be prevented as we are meant to be nail professionals who nurture and care for our clients’ natural nails, not damage and destroy them. Remember that because the natural nail plate is made of a non-living, non-breathing substance known as keratin, once it has been damaged it has to grow out. It can’t repair itself in the same way that your skin can, therefore you need to take extra care of how you treat it. I think a big part of the problem is due to how the industry has grown, creating an incredible demand for quicker services and treatments, resulting in nail techs being placed under a lot pressure. This makes them look for more efficient ways of doing things to achieve quick, easy results, so they often take short cuts, resulting in unsafe procedures being performed. Yes, time is money but it’s no excuse for a lack of care. I have always worked according to one rule, and that is to

online @ probeauty.co.za


Nail Health

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never compromise the quality of your services, your professionalism, your salon’s standards and the integrity of the natural nail for the sake of saving a few bucks here and there, or to save a few minutes. Nail services and products are not the cause of most natural nail damage, but rather incorrect and improper preparation, application and removal procedures and techniques. Let’s take a look at the reasons as to when and why this is happening, why it shouldn’t happen and how to prevent it.

Use of implements As simple as it may seem to perform a manicure and cuticle care, damage can still occur. Something we have spoken about in many articles is the unsafe

this needs to be done carefully practice of cutting the cuticles, which can result in a number of serious problems. Yet nail techs still continue to do this, despite the numerous warnings of how dangerous this can actually be. Also, shoving the cuticle back with a metal pusher on a dry nail and scraping the nail plate is incredibly damaging to both cuticle and nail plate, as forcing back the cuticle can tear it. None of this is necessary; use a good quality cuticle remover and proper techniques to gently push back the cuticle and only cut loose hang nails and use metal implements carefully. I always get asked whether the product will still adhere and last if I use a cuticle remover. The answer is absolutely and even better so, giving you cleaner, neater results. However, you do have to wash it off and dry the nails thoroughly. It’s the same as how washing your client’s hands prior to a service will not affect the service or application, but ensures good hygiene and sanitation.

Nail coating preparation Natural nail preparation is a very important step in ensuring your nail coatings or enhancements adhere to the natural nail, however

without causing damage. Gone are the days that you need to buff and file the natural nail to oblivion before applying product to it. Products and techniques have advanced so much that there is no need for it. Yet still there seems to be this misconception that the nail has to be etched like crazy for products to adhere to it. Well it doesn’t! Use a soft grit file or buffer with light feather touch movements in the direction of the nail growth, when removing the shine or oily layer from the nail plate. Although the nail is made up of many layers and is quite resilient, it doesn’t take much to buff a couple of layers away in no time, thinning it out and making it weak and vulnerable. You may think a block buffer won’t cause damage well think again as most of them are a 180 grit and are meant for finishing an enhancement, not for use on the natural nail.

Nail coating removal Product removal seems to be one of the most common causes of damage to client’s nails these days, and is caused during the removal of nail enhancement systems and nail coatings. Gel polish has become one of the most popular and sought after salon treatments to have done on >


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your natural nails nowadays, however along with it is the removal process. I often hear clients say, “Oh, gel polish ruined my nails!” This absolutely amazes me as this could not be further from the truth. These applications generally last anything up to two weeks on the fingernails and more on the toenails depending on the condition of the client’s nails and their lifestyle. This results in clients having to visit the salon more often than with enhancements, which can be rebalanced and don’t need to be soaked off as often. There are some salons that ‘refill’ gel polish, however you don’t achieve the same results as with a fresh application and besides a lot of clients like to try new and different colours, which means clients are having to soak their nails each time. Firstly, we all know that acetone is fairly dehydrating, so that in itself is not completely healthy for the natural nail plate, or the

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surrounding skin, but this is not what is causing the damage and there are ways of overcoming that by using cuticle oils regularly to protect the skin and nails. The actual damage is being caused by the nail tech when removing the product. The other problem is when nail techs assign an unqualified person to remove nail coatings from the nail. Although there are various methods to remove product from your nails, most nail techs commonly use the method of soaking a piece of cotton wool in acetone and then wrapping it in foil, especially when removing gel polish. Once the nails are wrapped they should be left well alone for the required removal time before they are unwrapped. When you continuously unwrap and look to see if the product has broken down it takes longer and usually results in clients and nail techs becoming impatient. Remember that, ‘when you’re looking, it’s not cooking.’

Some products also remove more quickly than others, so make sure you know what the required time is of the product you are using. Often when product has not completely soaked off the natural nail, nail techs resort to using either a metal pusher to pull the product off the nail, or they file it off. Both techniques are incredibly damaging to the natural nail. Educate your clients about the necessary information they need to know and what is expected of them to help you nurture their nails. Never underestimate the value of good education about everything to do with your profession, as a lack of knowledge, understanding and proper skills can cost you. Don’t wait until it’s too late as your reputation and career depends on it. Remember that a client with healthy nails is a happy client, who will continue to trust you with her nail services every time.


67 In the Market

Product

HUB UV Index

1- 2

(Low)

Cured Calgel & Other UV gel

NO PROTECTION REQUIRED

Long life CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp)

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails. Timer

Flexible

Removal of the bottom plate, so you can use hand and foot.

Timer display function。 Possible timer settings by pressing the button(30s - 240s) 。

Luxury & useful

Colour evolution

Illuminating crystal

Bio Sculpture has introduced four new season-independent Evo colours into the market, including Amy (‘A deep olive charmer, she’s an earth girl’). Other colours are: Candice (‘Shady with multiple glamorous glances to her’); Carol (‘Light and fresh, reminiscent of peach blossoms in the spring’); and Pippa (‘Watermelon pink, oozing femininity’).

The new Calgel Crystalamp differs CCFL(Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp), you do not need to change from other lamps bulb and ecology. on the market due to its low energy consumption, CCFL output and the long life span of the globe, which Other characteristic does not need to be regularly ● Global(∼240V),you can use anyqhere。 ● Great quality made in Japan replaced like normal UV ●UV set on the order of life level UVA・UVglobes. Index 1-2※) CrystalampUV has a colour UV UV UV UV UV UV UVchanging UV UV UV + 1 2 3that 4 5changes 6 7 8 9 10colour 11 LED light strip as the time counts down. It can cure UV and LED gel formulas.

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011 624 1101

Maintenance free

INDEX

INDEX

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Luxury finish. Visually it can be ti controlled by colorful illumination

Design

Conf iguration design with a beautiful cur ve will match any salon.

INDEX

NO PROTECTION REQUIRED NO PROTECTION REQUIRED

PROTECTION REQUIRED PROTECTION REQUIRED

EXTRA PROTECTION EXTRA PROTECTION

You can safely stay outside!

Seek shade during midday hours! Slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat!

Avoid being outside during midday hours! Make sure you seek shade! Shirt, sunscreen and hat are a must!

※WHO:Global solar UV index-A practical guide

Salon price R 1,200 [ Long life ] CCFL(Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp), you do not need to change bulb.

[Saving energy]

[ Quality ]

Power consumption will be decrease 40%

Made in Japan

[ Support ] 2 years guarantee

Products Name: Voltage Power consumption Timer setting Dimensions (approx.) Weight (approx.) Power lead (approx.) Accessories

Cal-Mo (Pty) Ltd. www.cal-mo.com Tel: 011 624 1101

Viva Espana! Morgan Taylor takes the bull by the horns with the Matadora Fall 2018 Collection. Inspired by the colour and passion of the streets of Spain, this collection includes rich fall tones of navy, purple and reds. All six Matadora shades are available in matching Gelish colours. Shades include I’m Drawing A Blanco, Don’t Break My Corazón and All Tango-d Up.

011 447 0659

>

online @ probeauty.co.za

:   CRYSTALAMP Ⅱ PEARL WHIT :   AC100V ‒ 240V 50-60Hz :   30W :   30/60/90/120/180/240 (secon :   205mm width x 250mm dept 110mm height :   1.4kg (inc. Ac adaptor) :   2.8m (inc. AC adaptor and ca : Power lead, AC adaptor


In the Market

68

Putty in your hands Artistic Nail Design has introduced Artistic Putty™ PolyGel™ Nail Enhancement, with a revolutionary monomer-free formula. Nail techs can shape, extend and play for as long as they want, then LED cure for a fast finish. Putty is 23% lighter than acrylics and 16% lighter than traditional hard gels with no sacrifice to durability. Ideal for sculpting or tip and overlay.

011 305 1600

In a flash The Young Nails Holo Flash Kit is for nail techs who want to slay their mani game with unstoppable futuristic style. These silver holo chrome nails are right on trend with eye-blasting brilliance and megadimensional depth. Mission Control Gel Paint in Over Drive, Silver Holographic Chrome Pigment, and Ultimate Finish Gel are included in the kit.

011 393 2791

Getting creative CND’s new Creative Play Gel Polish offers ultraintense colour with long lasting shine and 14-day wear. Available in over 50 colours, this 3-step system (i.e. Base Coat, Colour and Top Coat) is easy to remove and comes in 10 finishes, including crème, metallic, shimmer, satin, pearl, muticolour glitter, metallic glitter, holographic glitter, micro glitter and transformer.

011 791 4027 online @ probeauty.co.za

Sweet shades NSI’s Sugar Factory Collection features six brand new Polish Pro colours in sticky sweet hues, for a look that stands out. Bright and bold, these new shades are sure to give you a cavity as they look good enough to eat. Colours are: Candy Floss, Gum Drop, Jawbreaker, Sticky Taffy, Sugar Rush and Sweet Tooth.

012 997 4010


In the Market

69

Glittery collection

Clear transparency

From ibd Just Gel, the new Diamonds + Dreams Collection comprises six colours in a 100% pure gel formula that is compatible with all LED and UV accessory items. Shades include Glitter Struck, Under the Lights, Anything Glows, Flashy, Night Sky and Gold & Bold. This collection has far more shine, intensity and opacity than ordinary glitter polish.

The LCN FiberTech Gel is now available in Nude. Offering 2-in-1 bonding and sculpting, FiberTech is strong enough to build strong, extravagant lengths due to the transparent fiberglass particles. This gel is easy to work with, solvent free and durable.

011 305 1600

010 593 3293

Big dipper

Handy treats

Create beautiful and long-lasting nail enhancements in a fraction of the time with ProDip by SuperNail’s Acrylic Dipping System. Available in classic White, Pink and Clear and in 30 finely milled powders, in fashion hues and classic colours from sheer to prismatic glitters. Use with the ProDip by SuperNail Prep. Base, Activator and Finish Gel.

Izabelle Hammon has launched its new collection of nourishing hand treatments. These three new lightweight therapies will soothe tired and dry hands, leaving them soft and smelling amazing. The collection includes Tea Tree Hand Wash, Peppermint Hand Gel and Lotus Flower Hand Cream.

011 913 1930

031 537 3585 online @ probeauty.co.za


Q&A

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Top Tech Talk NailFile puts the spotlight on seasoned nail tech, Salome Mokgale, who has demonstrated extraordinary staying power in her career by having worked at Palladium Hair in Pretoria for 20 years. Have you always done nails at Palladium Hair? No, in fact when I joined Palladium Hair back in 1998, nail services had not yet been introduced into the salon – they were only included in the treatment menu the following year. I originally joined the company to relieve someone who was going on maternity leave. As I didn’t have any work experience, I started off as a cleaner, washing towels and dishes and making tea for clients. I soon progressed to learning how to wash clients’ hair. At that time the salon was operating in Brooklyn. We then moved to the Waterkloof Heights Shopping Centre, and the owner of the salon, Gina Capra, asked me if I wanted to learn how to perform nail services. So I went for training. To do nails well requires lots of practice, which I have done so much of over the years. I can now proudly say that I am a nail tech.

It’s quite unusual for someone in the industry to stay at one salon for so many years – why have chosen to remain at Palladium Hair? When I joined the salon, Gina Capra welcomed me with a warm heart and made me feel at home. I’ve been happy here ever since and have never even thought of leaving the company.

To do nails well requires lots of practice, which I have done so much of over the years

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Why did you decide to focus on nails? I thought the change would be good for me.

What nail training have you undergone? Courses at Bio Sculpture Gel, Nail Care and OPI.

What is your favourite treatment to perform? I enjoy doing all nail treatments in general as each treatment is done differently and has its own challenges. All I want is to see each client walk out happy and with a smile on their face.

Is there a big demand for nail art at your salon? Yes, especially among the youngsters.

Have you noticed any particular nail art trends that your clients have been requesting over the past few months? Very few clients want to do glitter these days and some clients are sticking to old trends like the traditional French Manicure.

Please describe the most complicated nail art that you’ve ever been asked to do. I would say it was South African Flag art.

Do you have some clients that have been with you for many years? Yes, if I had to start mentioning names I would never finish – our clients are very loyal.

What is your customer service ethos? Treating clients with a friendly, helpful attitude.

If you had to offer any advice to aspiring nail technicians what would it be? That people are different and to treat everyone with respect and patience. Be happy at all times and leave your problems at home.

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Training Accreditation

Professional accredited training is definitely the key to success, but what does training and accreditation cover in terms of qualifications for nail techs? Sonette van Rensburg sheds some light.

T

he nail industry has grown in leaps and bounds since I first started out almost 30 years ago. You might say, ‘Wow, that’s a long time in the same career!’ and I’m frequently asked whether I don’t get bored or sick of it. The answer is no, for the simple reason that when you first start out, your goals are different to what they are a couple of years later. My career in nail technology has taken me from being a nail tech working in a salon, to owning my own salon, to educating both locally and internationally, and up skilling therapists and nail techs. I

An accredited training provider provides the highest quality training in appropriate facilities that are equipped according to the best possible industry standards. have also had the most phenomenal opportunities awarded to me, such as being a

Global Educator for top brands and heading up big international training projects. I have also been exceptionally fortunate to have met the most amazing people from whom I have learnt so much and who have been mentors to me. This in turn has instilled so much knowledge and skills in me to pass on to others. So, this is proof that when you first start out as just a nail tech, it doesn’t have to stop there, it can take you wherever you want as long as you are willing to continually learn. >

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Education

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Education

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Motivation Firstly, what motivates you and why do you just decide one day that you would like to become a nail technician? Is it because you have always dreamt of becoming one, or because you love what you see nail techs do, or have you heard that the nail tech you go to, and others, make a lot of money? Whatever your motivation, you need to know that you don’t just become a nail tech overnight; it’s a skill that goes with a lot of knowledge that you have to learn and it takes time. Attending a three-day, or a one- or even two-week course to learn how to do nails is most certainly not enough to be able to fully equip you with all the necessary skills and knowledge to become a professionally skilled nail tech and to allow you to start conducting treatments. People think it’s so easy and basic to be a nail tech and wonder how can there be that much to learn. Yet you will be surprised as to how much you need to know, from the basics of being able to work in a salon to client care, communication, consultation, anatomy and physiology, hygiene and sanitation, safety and so much more. And all that before you have even started learning

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the skills and techniques of how to perform any nail services. So, if you want to become a serious nail tech and to make a career out of it and it’s not just a hobby because you’re bored and need something to pass the time, then you need to make sure you attend proper professional training courses with recognised and accredited training providers. There are so many courses out there nowadays to choose from and then there is also YouTube and the internet with a thousand different examples of how to do nails, nail art, etc. But are they effective enough and teaching you everything you need to know to become a true professional in this industry?

What does accreditation mean? Booking yourself for a nail course is meant to equip you with the necessary knowledge, skills and confidence so that you can get out there and start providing nail services and help you turn your passion into a serious career in order to earn a living. However, potentially booking a course with the wrong training provider could cost you dearly in your career as a nail technician, leaving you without the necessary

knowledge with regards to very important information and the understanding of how to deal with certain things, which are vitally important. An accredited training provider provides the highest quality training in appropriate facilities that are equipped according to the best possible industry standards. Such training providers have aligned their information and training techniques according to what has been set out to meet certain requirements. All training must also be provided and conducted by qualified and experienced professional educators. It will also ensure that the certificate you receive is recognised within the industry and most importantly that you are able to conduct services to be able to begin earning. Yes, proper professional accredited nail technology courses can cost quite a bit of money and you also need to invest a lot of time in doing them and practising your newly learnt skill, but it’s definitely worth it to set yourself up for the rest of your career. Attending a course with recognised providers not only equips you with all the correct information and skills you need, but they also offer support when you are struggling with learning to master a skill or technique. You also walk away with a proper accredited qualification in Nail Technology, which stands for so much more and gives you far more credibility than a short unaccredited course or You Tube training, especially when trying to secure a position and job in this industry. It all just depends on how serious you are. Training providers in South Africa are accredited through the Services SETA (Sector Education and Training Authority), along with other recognised accredited training bodies such as ITEC, VTCT and Cidesco.


Mar-Apr 2018  

The leading magazine for the professional beauty industry in Africa

Mar-Apr 2018  

The leading magazine for the professional beauty industry in Africa

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