AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
Menopausal skin treatments
CLIENT DO’S AND DON’TS
May 2022 | probeauty.co.za
IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 7
Local and international news
Crowning glory Focus on hair
In the market
Latest product launches
Talking to…Isabel Roos Isa Carstens Academy MD
Tips for applying make-up in winter
Warming up your client’s make-up
Ask the Experts
How to implement disciplinary procedures
International gathering of spa professionals reveals latest trends
World Spa & Wellness Convention report back
Aesthetic Medicine 38
The new era of bio-stimulation
Latest aesthetic anti-ageing product
Client do’s and don’ts
Powering up the skin
How customers should behave in the salon
Skin rejuvenation devices
How to use LinkedIn to expand your client base
Reaching out to offices around you
Product claims – substantiation or abdication – that is the question! An expert weighs in
Beyond sustainability Achieving net-positive and regenerative status
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Fountain of youth Topical treatments for menopausal skin
NailFile Issue 51
WELCOME NAIL FILE
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As each day brings with it increasingly horrific news from Ukraine, so too is the world reeling from the economic effect of the sanctions against Russia. In South Africa, we’ve already seen dramatic increases in the price of fuel, food and other goods, all of which put an added strain on the consumer’s purse. This, in turn, may impact salon and spa business at a time when the beauty industry is still trying to recover from the Covid economy. But, on the positive side, in this issue of Professional Beauty we include several articles of interest – one being about what sort of behaviour salons should expect from their clients. Each salon has a set of rules for its staff, but may not have one for its clients, which is why we asked the owner of an award-winning salon to share her list of client do’s & don’ts. We have also included articles on: how to use LinkedIn to reach potential clients in the offices and corporates around you; winter make-up tips; the truth behind product claims, topical treatments for menopausal skin; and the latest skin rejuvenation devices on the market.
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Covid-19 now listed as a hazardous biological agent
Researchers develop method to make skin cells behave 3 decades younger Aesthetic Medicine Magazine UK reports that researchers have found a way for skin cells to rejuvenate by 30 years, by creating stem cells from mature ones. This research was based on utilising the 2007 technique developed by Shinya Yamanaka at Kyoto University in Japan, known as ‘Yamanaka factors’, which could transform adult skin cells into stem cells by inserting four specialist molecules that reverse cell development. Diljeet Gill and colleagues at the Babraham Institute in Cambridge have now devised a technique that uses Yamanaka factors to rejuvenate skin cells without losing their previous identity or functionality. In the new study, skin cell samples from three human donors aged around 50 were exposed to the Yamanaka factors for just 13 days to partially anti-age the cells. Once the Yamanaka factors were removed, the cells were left to grow. Gill and his team found that the epigenetic clock and transcriptome profiles of the partially reprogrammed cells matched the profiles of skin cells that belonged to people who were 30 years younger. The rejuvenated cells also functioned like younger ones, creating more collagen than those that didn’t undergo reprogramming.
As the number of Covid-19 infections start to increase in South Africa with the onset of colder weather, salon owners should take note that the Regulations for Hazardous Biological Agents 2022 (HBA Regulations) lists Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome-2 (SARS CoV2) (Covid-19) as a Group 3 HBA. The EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Beauty Cosmetology) points out that this therefore places legal responsibilities on employers to limit the exposure and mitigate the risk of infection by Covid-19. Says the EOHCB: “Group 3 HBA is an HBA that may cause severe human disease, which presents a serious hazard to exposed persons and which may present a risk of spreading to the community, but for which effective prophylaxis and treatment is available. “In particular, in categorising Covid-19, the Regulations specify that a registered vaccine is available for use in South Africa and can, in terms of regulation 10(4)(g) be made available to control exposure to the HBA in the workplace, where reasonably practical. “This amendment to the Regulations will assist employers who have implemented vaccination requirements in the workplace (or who intend to do so) to justify their requirements of vaccination as a control measure. It can further be relied upon as a means of demonstrating what would be considered ‘reasonably practical’ for the purposes of complying with an employer’s legal duties in terms of Section 8 of the Occupational Health & Safety Act (OHSA) to provide and maintain as far as is reasonably practical, a working environment that is safe and without risk to the health of its employees. “The Regulations are applicable to every employer or selfemployed person at a workplace where, amongst other things, exposure to an HBA (i.e. Covid-19) may occur. Overall the Regulations place a number of legal duties on the employer.” More details about these legal duties are available on the EOHCB Facebook page.
https://www.newscientist.com/article/2315485anti-ageing-technique-makes-skin-cells-act30-years-younger/#ixzz7QEyr91Z0 Journal reference: eLife, DOI: 10.7554/eLife.71624
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INDUSTRY NEWS Preparations for World Wellness Weekend forge ahead Over 4,000 participating venues in 140 countries are set to take part in the 6th edition of WWW (World Wellness Weekend), which runs from 16 to 18 September this year. These venues will offer free, fun and inclusive group wellness activities, classes or workshops. Says WWW founder, Jean-Guy de Gabriac: “Since 2017, WWW has aligned with the UN to support its SDG (Sustainable Development Goal) 3, namely ‘Good Health and Well-being for All’, through 5 Pillars of Wellness. These are: Sleep & Creativity; Nutrition & Immunity; Movement & Vitality; Mindfulness & Serenity; and Sense of Purpose & Solidarity. “During the Covid-19 pandemic, the focus was on boosting vitality, serenity, resiliency and immunity. However, the dramatic events in Beirut, Myanmar and now Ukraine place solidarity at the forefront, as well as the necessity of living well together. As such, millions of wellness seekers and active travelers are encouraged to team up with a friend (i.e. ‘Wellness Buddy’), family or colleagues to set a specific goal to be ‘fitter together’ and, once achieved, to support the association of their choice in order turn the miles on their pedometer into money. People running on treadmills, walking to work, jogging, cycling or hiking for fun and health, will support those who walk for days to flee war and devastation.”
De Gabriac emphasises that WWW a year-round movement and a vibrant network of professionals motivated by making a difference in fitness, mindfulness, well-being, beauty, hospitality and tourism. He acknowledges the outstanding contribution of 117 volunteers around the globe (i.e. WWW Ambassadors and Coordinators), who infuse their networks with enthusiasm, encourage venues to be innovative, groups to instill a culture of wellness, and cities to be more aligned with the UN’s SDGs. For more information visit https://world-wellnessweekend.org/
Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels
Government wants employers to use ESSA system to recruit South Africa’s Deputy Minister of Employment and Labour, Boitumelo Moloi, is encouraging employers to use the ESSA (Employment Services of South Africa) system to recruit workers and maintain stability in the labour market. ESSA is an online recruitment service of the Department of Employment and Labour that is available to all South
African citizens. Deputy Minister Moloi describes the ESSA system as ‘credible and user-friendly’ in allowing employers to recruit. ESSA is viewed as part of government’s effort to promote compliance with the Employment Equity (EE) Act. “Employers could further be assisted, as the department also offers counselling to job seekers. We need employers to be friends with us,” says the Deputy Minister. Those who are unemployed and in the job market have to register as a job seeker on the Public Employment Services (PES) branch system. The online portal is created for prospective job applicants to register and create their profiles (CV/resume), view vacancies, and
review their CV. Moloi emphasised that EE legislation is in place not to punish but to ensure compliance. “EE self-regulation has not delivered results. That is why we are coming up with EE Act amendments. If we continue with the status quo, it will take us a century to transform workplaces. The fact is that workplace transformation is moving at a slow pace and we need to do something,” she says. (Source: SAnews.gov.za)
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Study shows that over half of women don’t know their skin type A study by Skin Trust Club has revealed that 63% of women don’t know or understand their skin type and are damaging their skin with unsuitable cosmetics. The results of the world’s first genome sequence skin test study, which studied women’s skin microbiomes, analysed a data set of 1,446 women living in the UK aged between 27 and 47 who used its consumer skin health tracking service between January and March 2022. Almost two thirds of women incorrectly identified their skin type before undergoing the genome sequence test, which analysed a skin swab, the report found. Oily skin types were the most misidentified; 19% of women with oily complexions believed it was balanced, and 18% thought their skin was dry before they received their results. Plus, 10% of women who believed they had balanced skin actually had dry skin, with 5% of women with dry skin believing their skin was oily. By purchasing products for the incorrect skin type, women could be damaging their skin, causing issues such acne, over-producing oil, and dryness, which can promote conditions like dermatitis. Dr David Caballero-Lima, chief scientist at Skin Trust Club, said: “The majority are buying – much of it very expensive – skincare products that are not suitable for their skin type. Those with dry skin who believe they have oily skin buy products that make the skin oilier, creating an environment that promotes acne. If a person believes they have dry skin when it is actually oily, then they create skincare routines with products that make their skin drier.” (Source: Professional Beauty UK)
Photo by Shiny Diamond from Pexels
Photo by Daria Shevtsova from Pexels
The vegan beauty trends impacting the market Cruelty-free convenience, functional fungi and creating and keeping collagen are three of the top vegan beauty movements currently trending. Says Toni Carroll, founder and CEO of luxury nutricosmetic brand, My Beauty Luv: “Given the growth of the vegan market, there is a clear need both for quality products and convenient ways of acquiring them. It’s not surprising then that we are seeing enterprising business owners like Kylie Jenner opting to relaunch her Kylie Cosmetics range with clean, vegan formulas, and beauty brands like Urban Decay expanding their clean beauty and vegan offerings.” Functional fungi, or medicinal mushrooms, are increasingly being added to the mix of products on the vegan market, hitherto dominated by pea protein and other powdered plant proteins. Carroll explains: “Medicinal mushrooms have been used for thousands of years due to their many health and beauty benefits like improved skin hydration and reduced wrinkle depth, with increased healthy fibroblast cell activity being scientifically proven in extensive studies, coupled with growing demand for natural health remedies.” Regarding the ‘creating and keeping collagen’ trend, the African collagen market is expected to experience 6% growth by 2025, with South Africa holding the bulk of market share. “Unfortunately,” explains Carroll, “despite various local and global manufacturers claiming to have developed vegan collagen, this is misleading since collagen is, by definition, an animal product. Vegans wanting to stimulate collagen production are increasingly opting for ingestible beauty products packed full of essential and non-essential amino acids, as well as antioxidants to safeguard existing collagen levels.”
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INDUSTRY NEWS Sorbet introduces First Thursdays programme
New moves at The Spa Consultants The Spa Consultants has appointed Micaela Ridley as its Marketing Designer & Administrator. Ridley has a Bcom Degree in Marketing Management, with seven years of experience within the beauty industry, successfully managing all salon administration, whilst implementing marketing and advertising initiatives. Says Ridley: “I am proud to be part of such an amazing company as The Spa Consultants that is led by women. This company helps people make their dreams a reality by guiding them to effectively open and manage their own spas and salons. I am also so proud to be in a company that supports POWA (People Opposing Women Abuse) and one that is determined to ensure that they are not causing harm to the environmnt by using bioegradable packaging and ingredients. “Skincare products are a passion of mine so working in the marketing campaigns of the company’s own brands – Six Skincare, Six Aesthetix and Spalicious – makes coming to work so exciting.”
The Sorbet Group has expanded its offering to customers by making after-hours glam and grooming treatments available at selected salons on the first Thursday of each month. This applies to the brand’s Sorbet Salons, Sorbet Nailbars, Sorbet Drybars, Sorbet Man and Candi&Co. Says Candice Thurston, marketing executive of the Sorbet Group and founder of Candi&Co: “At Sorbet we pride ourselves on the extent and high quality of our treatment menu and the special service we’re committed to delivering. It’s our mission to make sure that every guest who visits one of our salons leaves looking and feeling good from the inside out.” The launch of the First Thursday programme took place recently at the Sorbet Salon at Mall of Africa and Sorbet Man Hyde Park, where selected guests were given an exclusive preview of new products and innovations, as well as 30-minute pamper sessions. Promotional partner, Thulani ( Toolz ) Hadebe, demonstrated a number of grooming must-haves for men at Sorbet Man in Hyde Park. Sorbet’s Beauty Fair and Grooming Fair is back to introduce new advances in personal care. Also on offer are treatments with featured brands such as Dermalogica, Environ, Exuviance, DMK, Soft Gel Tips, Rapid Lash, MotherKind and Be Bright.
DEKA AGAIN device wins international award AGAIN by DEKA has been judged the Best Laser, Light And Energy-Based Device at the AMWC (Aesthetic & Anti-Ageing Medicine World Congress) Aesthetic Medicine Awards 2022. Says Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers, the sole distributor of the DEKA portfolio of medical and aesthetic systems in Sub-Saharan Africa: “AGAIN is a double sourced system and is equipped with an ultra-powerful and the fastest Alexandrite laser source, as well as
unrivalled Nd:YAG, which broadens the range of possible treatments. Alexandrite 755 nm is the only effective treatment for fine and fair hair. Nd: YAG 1064 nm penetrates deeper into the skin to be effective in vascular treatment (both face and legs).” The AMWC Aesthetic Medicine Awards honour physicians and industry companies for their innovative approach in the field of aesthetic and anti-ageing medicine.
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Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels
I need to implement disciplinary procedures against one of my staff members. How should I proceed? he purpose of a disciplinary code and procedure is to regulate standards of conduct and incapacity of employees within a company or organisation. The aim of discipline is to correct unacceptable behaviour and to adopt a progressive approach in the workplace. This also creates certainty and consistency in the application of discipline. Firstly, the employer needs to ascertain that all employees are aware of the rules and the reasonable standards of behaviour that are expected of them in the workplace. Some rules or standards such as that of displaying honest behaviour, do not have to be in writing. The employee needs to comply with the disciplinary code and procedures at the workplace. Further, the employee also needs to ensure that he/she is familiar with the requirements in terms of the disciplinary standards in the workplace. There is a difference between disciplinary action and counselling. Counselling will be appropriate where the employee is not
THE EMPLOYEE should be GIVEN THE OPPORTUNITY to RESPOND AND EXPLAIN his/her conduct. If possible, AN AGREED REMEDY on how to address the conduct should BE ARRIVED AT.
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performing to a standard, or is not aware of a rule regulating conduct and/or where the breach of the rule is relatively minor and can be condoned. Disciplinary action will be appropriate where a breach of the rule or standard cannot be condoned, or where counselling has failed to achieve the desired effect.
Meet with employee
Before deciding on the form of discipline, management must meet the employee in order to explain the nature of the rule or standard s/he is alleged to have breached. The employee should also be given the opportunity to respond and explain his/her conduct. If possible, an agreed remedy on how to address the conduct should be arrived at. Disciplinary action can take a number of forms, depending on the seriousness of the offence and whether the employee has breached the particular rule before. The following forms of discipline can be used (in order of severity): • Verbal warning • Written warning • Final written warning • Suspension without pay (for a limited period) • Demotion, as an alternative to dismissal only • Dismissal The employer should establish how serious an offence is, with reference to the disciplinary rules in its company or organisation. If the offence is not very serious, informal disciplinary action can be taken by giving an employee a verbal warning. The law does not specify that employees should receive any specific number of warnings, for example, three verbal warnings or written warnings, and dismissal could follow as a first offence in the case of serious misconduct.
BUSINESS TIPS Formal steps
Formal disciplinary steps would include written warnings and the other forms of discipline listed above. A final written warning could be given in cases where the contravention of the rule is serious, or where the employee has received warnings for the same offence before. Where appeal procedures exist, an employee can appeal against a final warning. The employer can hold an enquiry if the employer believes that it is only through hearing evidence that the outcome can be determined. Written warnings often remain valid for 3 to 6 months. Final written warnings often remain valid for 12 months. A warning for one type of contravention is not applicable to another type of offence. In other words, a first written warning for late-coming could not lead to a second written warning for insubordination. Employees will be requested to sign warning letters as acknowledgement of receipt and will be given an opportunity to state their objections, should there be any. Should an employee refuse to sign a warning letter, this does not make the warning invalid. A witness will be requested to sign the warning, stating that the employee refused acknowledgement of receipt of the warning.
DISMISSAL IS RESERVED for the MOST SERIOUS OFFENCES and will be PRECEDED BY A FAIR DISCIPLINARY ENQUIRY, unless an EXCEPTIONAL CIRCUMSTANCE results in a disciplinary ENQUIRY BECOMING either an IMPOSSIBILITY (e.g. the employee absconded and never returned) OR UNDESIRABLE (e.g. holding an enquiry will endanger life or property). Dismissal
Dismissal is reserved for the most serious offences and will be preceded by a fair disciplinary enquiry, unless an exceptional circumstance results in a disciplinary enquiry becoming either an impossibility (e.g. the employee absconded and never returned) or undesirable (e.g. holding an enquiry will endanger life or property). An employee may be suspended on full pay pending a hearing especially in instances when the employee’s presence may jeopardise any investigation. The employer must also allow the employee to make representations prior to suspension. Additionally, the employer should give the employee not less than three days’ written notice of the enquiry and the notice
should include: • The date, time and venue of the hearing. • Details of the allegations against the employee. • The employee’s right to representation at the hearing by either a fellow employee or shop steward/union official. • The employee’s right to an interpreter, if needed. • The right to call relevant witnesses in support of his or her case. Who should be present at the enquiry? • A chairperson • A management representative • The employee • The employee representative • Any witnesses for either party • An interpreter if required by the employee
Image by Robin Higgins from Pixabay
How should a hearing be conducted?
The employer should lead evidence and the employee is then given an opportunity to respond. The chairperson may ask any witnesses questions of clarity. At the end, the chairperson decides whether the allegations against the employee have been proved on balance of probability. If guilty, the chairperson must ask both parties to make submissions on the appropriate disciplinary sanction. The chairperson must then decide what disciplinary sanctions to impose and inform the employee accordingly. The employee should be informed that s/he has right to appeal. If the company policy does not provide for an internal appeal procedure, the employee must be reminded that he/she could take the case further to the CCMA or relevant Bargaining Council. Failure to attend the hearing cannot stop the hearing from continuing, except if good cause can be shown for not attending. This procedure should not substitute disciplinary procedures subject to collective agreements. Parties can also request, by mutual consent, the CCMA or a Bargaining Council to appoint an arbitrator to conduct a final and binding disciplinary enquiry. The employer would be required to pay a prescribed fee if such an appointment is mutually requested.
The above article was penned by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty). To make contact with the EOHCB go to www.eohcb.co.za DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your questions about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to firstname.lastname@example.org
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3. Don’t come when you are sick. 4. Don’t come to the salon without your purse. 5. Don’t come to the salon with waterproof mascara and make-up on. 6. Don’t come to the salon not having showered or bathed beforehand. 7. Don’t come late and expect the treatment to be completed in the same time period. Know that it will get cut short to accommodate the next client coming after you. 8. Don’t just stay away without giving the salon a call and informing them that you will be late or not come at all. 9. Do not answer calls on your cell phone while we are busy with your treatment. 10. If you want to get the best results after your treatment, don’t book to come to the salon first thing in the morning, rather later in the day, so you don’t need to wash your face at the end of the day. 11. Don’t eat a big meal before a salon visit. 12. Leave expensive jewellery at home. 13. If possible, don’t bring a whole bunch of friends with you when you come for a treatment. It is best to come as a solo visitor.
client do’s and don’ts
ll salons should have a set of standard operational procedures with which to guide their staff, but they may not have a set of rules for their clients to inform them of how they are expected to conduct themselves. The following is a suggested list of protocols for your clients to follow, and something that I’ve found works very well in my own salon. It can be displayed in your reception area and also posted on your salon’s website.
1. Don’t eat meals containning garlic the night before your treatment. 2. Don’t come to the salon when you are under the influence of alcohol.
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Image sourced from Pixabay
Gina Gall, owner of the multiple award-winning Professional Skin Care Lab, provides some tips on how clients should behave while in the salon
1. Please put your phone on silent. 2. Be mindful of others in the salon sharing the same space as you. 3. Whisper when you are in the salon. This is a peaceful space and you as the client need to relax and switch off too. 4. Please let the therapist know if you are restricted to a budget BEFORE your treatment. 5. Arrive 15 minutes before your appointment. 6. Speak up if you are not satisfied with anything. For example: the music is too loud or not to your liking; the pressure that the massage therapists are using is too light or hard; etc. 7. Be punctual – it is best to come 15 minutes earlier for your treatment, to afford yourself time to switch off and relax. If you are going to be late, call the salon and notify them of your situation. 8. If you are a first-time client, coming even earlier is best. This gives you time to complete your client card before your treatment, so the therapist does not need to rush to finish you off to start with the next client.
As the visionary and entrepreneur behind Professional Skin Lab, Gina Gall is deeply passionate about her work in the skin care industry and is driven to produce results. With an international qualification in Somatology and post-graduate training in the US, Gall has over two decades’ experience in the industry. Specialising in paramedical treatment, she consults with clients and their plastic surgeons for pre- and post-operative treatment formulation, including skins peels, microneedling, plasma pen and lesion removal.
Photo by John Schnobrich on Unsplash
How to use LinkedIn to expand your client base
While Facebook and Instagram are commonly used by salons and spas to market their services and attract new clients, there is another online platform that can help you target the local offices around you, as marketing specialist Scott Dance reveals eing a professional networking site, LinkedIn provides a great way of reaching potential clients who work in the office blocks in your area, many of which may be corporates. Firstly, create a corporate pass offer. To get the best possible results on LinkedIn, the offer you provide to large companies is crucial. Exclusivity is key to getting these businesses converted into clients, and this could get your name on hundreds of computer screens. I’ve found the best results come from a prepaid voucherstyle offer, such as a ‘Corporate Beauty Pass’ or ‘Salon Experience Pass’. Prepaid guarantees cash up front (and people will use it), plus it allows customers to buy these as gifts. In your offer, find the right balance of something you think will wow people, while being worth it for you. Packages where clients can choose from several treatments create the widest appeal. So, list five of your most popular, cheaper treatments and allow new clients at these businesses to choose any three for a fixed price.
Even though this deal is exclusively for staff at local organisations, let people at these companies also buy these vouchers as gifts for loved ones as this will increase the number of new faces coming into your salon.
Terms and conditions
It’s important to include buyer terms and conditions such as ‘Not valid in December’ (if booked up) and a set expiry date – ‘Only valid with selected therapists’; and ‘Not valid on Saturdays’. Insisting people use a package over at least two appointments can increase your chances of rebooking them too. To further increase that chance, try adding an ‘extra bonus’. For example, many salons will give a small next appointment discount, while others will give new clients up to 50% off treatment courses.
LinkedIn requires you to firstly connect with people, but the platform’s Sales Navigator is brilliant for finding and contacting better leads – and it’s free for the first month. Provided you have a LinkedIn profile, upgrade to a
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Premium account via a 30-day free trial, which includes the Sales Navigator Professional function. Cancel within those 30 days and you won’t be charged a penny. Making connections that lead to good contacts on LinkedIn is a numbers game, so try to invest any spare time connecting with people within big local offices near you. 1. I n the Sales Navigator, hit ‘all filters’ at the top right. 2. I n ‘Geography’ enter your town, or five miles around your postcode. 3. S croll down, click on ‘Company’, and it will list the largest local organisations and employees on LinkedIn. 4. Y ou can then search for leads. 5. B efore you start trying to connect with people, hit the ‘Posted on LinkedIn in the past 30 days’ filter at the top, so you’re connecting with people who actually use the platform. 6. T he ‘Function’ field allows you to connect with people in certain roles. You’re looking for HR, communications and administrative, but if you have no luck there, then try to connect with others who might be able to assist. Remember, this is free for 30 days, so make the most of it. Always add a message to your connection requests too like: ‘Hi (name), it would be great to connect as I’m hoping you can point me in the right direction at (company)’. Look for message replies and newly accepted connections in your ‘My Network’ area. Then, tell each new connection the good news: you have an exclusive offer for their staff and you’re looking for the right person to email this information across to.
Distributing vouchers and receiving payments
Once you have a lead, include in your email who you spoke to on LinkedIn (name dropping helps), how people can buy the voucher, and explain that you’re letting their staff buy these as gifts for friends and family too. Even better if you can provide an online buying link in the email. It’s unlikely you’ll get buyers from every organisation you email, but if you get just two or three companies enthused, then you could have 20 new clients from each. *This article was first published in Professional Beauty UK in February 2022.
Scott Dance is founder of Salon Revenue Growth, a digital marketing agency that specialises in the hair and beauty industry.
INTERNATIONAL GATHERING OF SPA PROFESSIONALS
reveals latest trends
The recent World Spa & Wellness Convention in London saw over 150 delegates congregate to share information about changes in the sector, as spa consultant Marisa Dimitriadis reports
his was the first time in two years that there was more than 150 people in a room not wearing masks. There were huge smiles on all our faces, as we were so happy to reconnect and gather together. It was incredible to see the spa industry do a 360-degree turn and literally go back to a point of starting afresh and trying new things. Innovation was definitely the word that stood out most, after the word wellness, which is currently the buzz in our sector. I was so excited to hear about all the different efforts from spas around the globe to survive the Covid-19 pandemic and literally re-invent their business models. So, whilst the past two years have been nothing short of traumatic, attending this conference and hearing what everyone did to try and keep their businesses afloat got me very excited.
The speakers with conference director Jean-Guy de Gabriac
Immersive wellness experiences
Some immersive wellness experiences from India that we heard about included mindful painting, peacock feeding, mindful gardening, conscious cooking, and guided nature and seaside walks. These are all top of mind of the consumer right now. Sleep was named the new currency and workplace wellness is right up there, with a convergence of modern medicine and traditional wellness. Marisa Dimitriadis
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Almost every presentation at the convention put staff wellbeing first, with ideas such as individual staff wellness plans, breakout rooms, biophilic areas, spaces for staff to unwind, and healthy food options. It was also acknowledged that flexibility in terms working hours and rosters are needed in order to meet a better work/life balance, and that your staff are the heartbeat of your business. I have never attended a conference in the last 20 years where staff, their wellbeing and needs and the high degree of attention and focus put on spa teams was highlighted and emphasised this much. The ‘great resignation’ was a term that came up often in the two days, where once again staff wellbeing and staff retention strategies were deemed so important in running wellness businesses for the future.
It was evident that consumer needs seem to vary from country to country, and even in areas within the same country, but what stood out in terms of similarity is that the consumer wants to know and understand each spa’s sustainability and environmental pledges. They want emotional connection experiences and any treatment related to nature and the outdoors is thus a drawcard.
Here are some of the key innovation strategies that leading spas have implemented so as to boost business. 1. Yielding of the treatment diary. This strategy is fascinating to me as I am so passionate about doing this for the spa and salon industry and I can finally see it happening and becoming acceptable. Yielding really boils down to higher pricing for demand times and lower prices for times not in demand. Think about it, if hotels and airlines can do it, why can’t spas? Of course we can! We just have to get our minds around the concept and implement it without fear. I loved to hear that most spas at the convention are doing this now. 2. Reducing treatment menus. Menus are becoming shorter and more personalised. Again, something I am super passionate about is personalisation and it’s a word that came up with almost each presentation. As such, menus are becoming more about exactly what the client wants and needs, and then working out how
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long you need to meet those needs, and booking out the appropriate amount of time and not necessarily a specific service. Who knows – maybe we won’t have treatment menus in the future? It will be all about what you need and want and how we can deliver that to you in what amount of time. I find this concept very exciting! 3. Introducing outdoor or outsourced wellness activities to the spa offering is another strategy that almost each presenter mentioned, with so many different ideas ranging from mindful painting to peacock feeding as part of wellness offerings. 4. Some therapies that came up in discussion that are so interesting are outdoor seaweed bathing, forest therapy, salt halo therapy, touchless sound therapy, raindrop therapy, and crystal healing. 5. Being flexible and working with your particular style of hotel or spa and environment. 6. Aligning wellness innovations to the needs of the business. 7. Investing the right level of resources tailored to your facility. 8. Integrating yoga, meditation and breathwork (all of which are related to mindfulness) into the treatment menu.
MENUS ARE BECOMING more about exactly WHAT THE CLIENT WANTS AND NEEDS, and THEN WORKING out how long you NEED TO MEET THOSE NEEDS, and BOOKING OUT the appropriate amount OF TIME and not necessarily a specific service. Varying demand
What was interesting too were the reports from some spas that said they now have demand for shorter treatments, while others noted that they are experiencing requests for longer experiences. This goes to show that there really is no ‘one size fits all’ when it comes to our industry right now. What is important and what was highlighted, is that business owners need to become in tune with their target market and speak to their needs. In other words, personalisation. Outside of the convention hall, the delegates enjoyed a 5-hour boat cruise with delicious sparkling wine and interesting food prepared in individual servings. There was a lot of laughter, dancing and of course, the much anticipated World Spa & Wellness Awards in the evening.
Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants and a co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild. Email email@example.com
– substantiation or abdication – that is the question! Modern day skin and hair care products offer an everincreasing range of product claims which sometime promise the earth, but do they really deliver? Independent consultant John Knowlton provides the answer Photo by Greta Hoffman from Pexels
hilst many of the claims found in the marketplace are fulfilled when consumers use the products in question, some unscrupulous marketers make promises on their packs which are little more than wishful thinking. So, what regulatory measures are in place to prevent such unsubstantiated and misleading claims from being made? In South Africa, as with most parts of the world, the use of product claims in all types of advertising media is strictly controlled and the responsible authority for the establishment and enforcement of advertising standards in this country is the Advertising Regulatory Board (ARB). This control is exercised through the ARB Code of Advertising Practice (ARB Code) and in the case of all products that fall within the
South African definition of a cosmetic product, Appendix B of the Code, authored by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) of South Africa, is of essential relevance. Whilst the ARB Code requires many things of product claims, there are two fundamental principles that apply. Firstly, all claims made for any cosmetic product should be truthful and veracious and, as such, they must be adequately substantiated by at least one of two principles detailed in the ARB Code itself: scientific evidence, or survey-type data. Generally, although not exclusively, the former refers to scientific/ instrumental studies on hair and skin, clinical assessments conducted under the governance of a medical practitioner or other suitably qualified administrator, and so-called expert panels. By contrast, survey-type data refers to both qualitative and/ or quantitative market research techniques, which focus on consumer’s opinions and perceptions. Secondly, and in accordance with the ARB Code, claims made for a cosmetic product must not seek to
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mislead or deceive the consumer in any way. As such, claims that seek to misrepresent the function of the product in question, or exaggerate the performance of the same, would be considered misleading advertising under the ambit of the ARB Code, and therefore not permitted. It should be noted that it is the sole responsibility of the marketer of a cosmetic product to demonstrate that their claims are both substantiated and not misleading, in the event that they are challenged by a competitor, or even a consumer, before the ARB.
IN SOUTH AFRICA, as with MOST PARTS OF THE WORLD, the use of PRODUCT CLAIMS in all types of ADVERTISING MEDIA is strictly CONTROLLED and the responsible authority for the establishment and enforcement of ADVERTISING STANDARDS in this country is the ADVERTISING REGULATORY BOARD (ARB).
Photo by Vie Studio from Pexels
So why do cosmetic products make claims in the first place? Whilst this may seem to be obvious at first blush, there are many different reasons why marketers may wish to make certain type of claims for their products. The most obvious reason is to gain competitive advantage in the marketplace, and this is normally achieved
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by adding consumer interest, reinforcing the marketing proposition and creating an increase in brand awareness. These types of claims are normally referred to as being ‘marketing driven’ and are closely associated with the perception of products in the marketplace. Distinctly different types of claims are those associated with actual product performance. In this case, the aim is to state or imply uniqueness in a product when compared with its competitors, and this may be achieved either by communicating the magnitude of product performance, endorsing clinical efficacy, or creating the impression of a unique scientific benefit, which is not provided by any other product in the marketplace. These types of claims are normally referred to as being ‘technically driven’ and are closely associated with the instrumental and/ or clinical determination of product performance.
There are several classifications for the methods associated with the substantiation of product claims, otherwise referred to as ‘proof of effect’, and the method(s) chosen must pay specific attention to the type of claim being substantiated and the way in which it is communicated to the consumer. In this context, it is essential to consider the consumers’ understanding of the claim(s) in question, because this is the premise that will be used by the ARB in the adjudication of an advertising dispute; this is referred to as ‘the takeout of the hypothetical reasonable consumer’. Methods for claim substantiation include the use of generic data, raw material efficacy studies, nonproprietary literature in the public domain, instrumental evaluation, clinical trials and consumer research techniques. The choice of method, or more commonly, methods, depends upon the type of claim being made, the media used (i.e. pack copy, magazine press, advertorial, TVC, etc.) and the execution of the communication to the consumer. In developing a ‘claim substantiation package’, it is common practice to use more than one of these methods, in order to bolster the robustness of the defence that can be made, in the event that an advertising challenge is brought before the ARB for adjudication. Generic data is seldom used for substantiation purposes as it is too weak, unless the claim(s) in question is(are) very simplistic, and non-proprietary literature is rarely relied upon due to its highly specialised nature. The most frequently incorporated method for claim substantiation in the case of smaller companies in the marketplace, is to use raw material suppliers’ efficacy data to substantiate claims being made for the finished product in which that raw material is used. Such an approach, however, must be considered with extreme caution, as this presupposes that the product in question will automatically acquire the properties of the raw material in being used and, for a number of reasons, this is not necessarily the case. This type of approach is referred to as ‘substantiation by extrapolation’, or ‘bridging’, and carries with it a significant risk, in that it doesn’t meet the ARB requirement for product specific substantiation.
manner, devoid of any personal opinion. Frequently, the assessors involved are medical practitioners such as dermatologists and trichologists, although this is not a mandatory prerequisite, as long as the assessor is professionally qualified with the necessary experience to objectively determine the parameters to be assessed.
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There are SEVERAL CLASSIFICATIONS for the methods associated with the SUBSTANTIATION OF PRODUCT CLAIMS, otherwise referred to as ‘PROOF OF EFFECT’, and the method(s) chosen MUST PAY SPECIFIC ATTENTION to the type of CLAIM BEING SUBSTANTIATED and the way in which it is COMMUNICATED TO THE CONSUMER. Instrumental evaluation
One of the most common techniques used for the substantiation of product claims, especially technically driven ones, is instrumental evaluation. This also has the advantage of being considered the most robust type of substantiation by the ARB, in the event of an advertising dispute. A plethora of highly specialised instrumental techniques have been developed over the last 30 years including colorimetry, corneometry, cutometry evaporimetry, mexametry, profilometry and sebumetry, each technique relating to specific properties of the skin and/or hair, for which these instruments have been specifically designed to measure.
Objective sensory assessment
Another technique frequently utilised for the substantiation of technically driven claims is objective sensory assessment. This classification involves a wide range of study methods, all of which involve the quantitative assessment of skin and hair properties by a professionally qualified assessor that has been trained to make such assessments in a purely objective
METHODS FOR claim substantiation include the USE OF GENERIC DATA, RAW MATERIAL EFFICACY STUDIES, non-proprietary literature in the public domain, INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION, CLINICAL TRIALS and consumer research techniques. Consumer research
The last technique that is frequently used to substantiate product claims falls within the wide umbrella of consumer research and one or more of any number of methods are normally relied upon for the substantiation of ‘marketing driven’ claims that relate to consumers’ opinions or perceptions. Consumer research may broadly be divided into two distinct types: qualitative consumer research and quantitative consumer research. Qualitative consumer research techniques are employed in situations where an understanding of the brand proposition is needed to substantiate the claims being made, and this normally involves methods such as omnibusing, telephone/ face-to-face surveys and focus groups, all of which yield valuable information about consumer perceptions of brands/ products and what they have to offer. By contrast, quantitative consumer research techniques are used when there is a need to quantify, specifically from a consumer perspective, the efficacy of a product and how it performs in use against a competitive product, or a placebo. Quantitative consumer research methods vary depending upon the exact nature of the claim(s) to be substantiated, but include such techniques as in-house panel tests, home placement studies and quantitative market surveys using as many as 500 consumer participants. In summary, product claims can make or break the performance of a product in the marketplace, but unless such claims are veracious and factual, without being misleading in any way, then the success of that product will be very short-lived and displaced by products that can deliver what they promise on the pack.
John L Knowlton C.Chem, MRSC, Dip. Cos. Sci. (GB) is an independent consultant to the cosmetic industry.
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You will probably start to notice that as the winter months approach, your usual favourite foundation may not be doing the trick anymore. This can be due to the client’s skin texture changing and the consistency of foundations in cooler temperatures. Try changing up your matte and powder foundations for a cream base foundation. Foundations with a soft natural finish will give the skin that extra glow that we lose during the winter season.
Tips for applying make-up in winter
Although it might be a dull season, winter doesn’t mean your client’s make-up has to be, writes Jenine O’Reilly. easons are changing and so are the make-up trends. With just a few easy changes to your client’s make-up routine, you can warm up any make-up look. The most important thing when it comes to applying make-up is definitely prepping the skin. A flawless canvas creates a beautiful painting. Together with the cold winter weather comes very dry air and harsh temperatures. This is very drying and irritating for the skin and therefore a hydrating moisturiser is a definite must. This doesn’t mean you can skip on the sunscreen though. Make sure you still include a sunblock or sunscreen in your everyday routine.
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Two looks that stand out when thinking about winter make-up trends for 2022 are most definitely smokey eyes and bold lips. When it comes to eyeshadows and eye make-up, this is the perfect season to play with some deep, sultry colors. Warm, earthy tones are a beautiful trend for winter. Play around with some colours such as plums, deep burnt oranges and even a hint of burgundy for a warm winter eye look. If you are the daring type, you can also add a bold black winged liner for a stunning winter eye look.
Remember there must always be a balance, so if your client is more of a lip kind of lady, now is the perfect season to pull out those deep, dark reds. A natural eye look will match perfectly with a bold dark lip. If you want to create a bold eye, then opt for a stunning nude lip. Make sure to choose a lipstick at least a shade or two darker than your client’s natural lip colour. Use a lip liner in a shade darker to over-line the lips to prevent any bold colours from ‘bleeding’ or smudging. Lip products can also be very drying in this season, so choose a product that will lock in that moisture but that still gives you that vibrant colour. A personal favourite for me is the Nuskin Nu colour power lips in the shade, Breadwinner. To finish off, use a hydrating make-up setting spray to lock in that moisture and to keep your client’s make-up smudge free.
Jenine O’Reilly is the owner of Belle Beauty Hair and Make-up Salon in Vanderbijlpark. She completed her BSC degree in Fashion Marketing & Designing in 2015 at the North West School of Design in Klerksdorp. O’Reilly has been working as a make-up artist for the past six years and has an absolute passion for bridal and glam make-up. She is also a part-time actress.
Image sourced from Pixabay
Continuing in our Sustainability Newsdesk series of articles, GreenSpa. Africa’s Charné le Roux stresses the importance of achieving netpositive and regenerative status y son’s favourite song is about that bear that goes over the mountain to see what he can see. It speaks of adventure and the beyond. Forging new paths, challenging the known. Sustainability has become a bit of an amorphous term. Considering that the root word ‘sustain’ implies that things should stay the same, it’s no wonder that consumers and brands have different outlooks on what exactly they should do to answer the sense of urgency around climate change, environmental degradation and social injustice. We all agree that, at the very least, we should do no harm. We should use only what we need and no more. But this is no longer good enough. If we were just to continue to ‘sustain’ our current trajectory of existence, then doing so would use a calculable amount of resources, culminating in the guaranteed, eventual depletion of critical resources. Now consider that exactly this has been happening for decades already and now, some of
WE ALL AGREE that, at the very least, WE SHOULD DO NO HARM. We should USE ONLY what WE NEED AND NO MORE. But this is NO LONGER good enough. those resources show red lights flashing. Not only must we do better than ‘sustain-ability’, but we should in fact also lean strongly into the task of undoing all those decades of harm.
Rising to this challenge to do better and go beyond the familiar and known, is a strong movement that is being formed, particularly in the agricultural and building sectors, namely to aim for net-positive, or regenerative status. • Traditional mass production agriculture leaves the soil barren of nutrients, using practices focused on maximum yield and profit. • Sustainable agriculture, on the other hand, aims for zero negative impact, leaving Nature as we found her, without synthetic chemicals and pesticides.
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• Regenerative agriculture, however, rebuilds the soil’s organic matter, enhances biodiversity, restores water sources and importantly, at the same time, grows and evolves individuals and communities to actualise their potential. Net-positive buildings generate more energy and water than they use and improve the ecology of their surrounding areas. These buildings incorporate renewable energy, sustainable water harvesting and recycling and provide their occupants with the necessary resources, and more. Doing so, these buildings serve as carbon sequestration pillars. They can generate and store energy on site for surrounding communities, use the site to channel and process storm water runoff, and can even have ‘skins’ that ‘scrub’ the air. In these examples, the idea is not to just use fewer resources, but to replenish and enhance our environment in the process of using those resources. A wonderful example of just such a building is Burwood Brickworks Shopping Centre in Melbourne.
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Wouldn’t you want to operate your spa or salon in a regenerative building?
Such a building is an asset for your city and can provide a buffer against climate change, offers opportunities for urban agriculture, recycles, recharges water reservoirs and protects ecosystems. And, ultimately, a building like this could provide the essential backdrop that brings full circle the wellness experience that we promise to our clients.
Have any beauty brands or spas actually gone beyond?
Spa and beauty professionals are courageous innovators and trail blazers, blending high tech with traditional practices, re-inventing what it means to be beautiful and vital and adapting to continuously changing business environments. We are also hugely successful as an industry.
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It will TAKE TIME to build a REGENERATIVE ORGANIC SUPPLY CHAIN and currently NO CENTRAL DIRECTORY of participants exists. Just take the British Beauty Council’s Value of Beauty report as an example – it indicates that our industry contributes more to GDP in the UK than sports activities and the manufacture of motor vehicles. There are indeed skincare brands who are working towards organic and regenerative status. Many adopt farm-to-face principles, farming their own ingredients for their products. This is an important strategy to retain control over the quality of ingredients and manufacturing processes. Notable examples are Comfort Zone – helping to create the first European Regenerative Organic Centre – and Tara Harper and Weleda, both of which create products from ingredients grown on their own biodynamic farms. Locally, Esse Skincare and SOiL’s essential oils are also produced from their own certified organic farms and both have strong carbon management strategies and integrative social practices. Soon, Regenerative Organic will be a new certification standard specifically for beauty brands who create or source their ingredients and packaging from suppliers who support regenerative practices, who facilitate human partnerships that enhance individuals and communities, and who practice ethical and transparent business under strict rules of corporate governance. The spa industry is not far behind beauty brands here, combining green buildings with net-positive water and energy strategies, sustainable equipment, regenerative organic products and supportive programmes for staff and communities. Just have a look at some of the awardwinning sustainable spas from all over the world. It will take time to build a regenerative organic supply chain and currently no central directory of participants exists. In the meantime, spas can look to transition as much of their skin and body care supply chain to organic as possible, and talk to suppliers of spa consumables and equipment about their knowledge and interest in regenerative products. Onwards it is for the spa industry, over the mountain to vital beauty and wellness that regenerates full circle.
As turnkey sustainability practitioner, Charné le Roux advocates and influences sustainability in the wellness industry. Her work includes creating the Sustainable Spa Practitioner Course, GreenSpa Guide and GreenSpa Calculator. Email firstname.lastname@example.org
Isabel Roos Joanna Sterkowicz chats to Isabel Roos, managing director of the Isa Carstens Academy, about the issues facing the formal beauty education sector and about what it takes to make it in the industry
When was the Isa Carstens Academy established?
The academy opened its doors in 1978 in Stellenbosch. It was then called the Isabelle Carstens Training Centre, thereafter renamed as the Stellenbosch Academy of Beauty Therapy. In 1998, it became the Isa Carstens Health and Skin Care Therapy. We are now known as Isa Carstens Academy, allowing us to offer other qualifications as well and not only in the skin and body industry. Our Pretoria Campus was opened in 2011.
How has the beauty industry changed since the academy first opened?
During my formative years in the industry, our knowledge was based on beauty treatments and treatments were targeted at the superficial layers of the skin. There were only a few dermatologists at the time who supported what we did as therapists. I even remember how the industry heroes of that time – Helene
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always support their systems. As private providers, we need a quicker response time from them as our businesses need to survive. If these bodies are fully functional, I think that we have a good system of quality control in education, which then ensures a standard training level for everyone. This is exactly what we require – there needs to be opportunities for all to be trained to certain levels.
Does the beauty training sector still suffer the problem of fly-by-night beauty schools and/or schools that are unaccredited and offer inferior training courses at reduced rates?
Bramwell, Christine du Raan, Shirley Gelb, Arlene Davey and Isa Carstens – fought to have body massage become part of our industry and not leave it to be regarded as a treatment done only by a masseuse. Today, at last, our industry is being respected for what it can do. We are able to work together with medical professionals, which I believe is such a good combination. That being said, I do also think that we as skin care therapists, somatologists and dermal aestheticians are worthy of the results we can achieve by ourselves, and we are able to be successful and stand our own ground. This is as long as we ensure that the education of these therapists is up to date and on a level where the industry and public will have respect for the knowledge that we have.
What challenges is the beauty education sector in South Africa facing at the moment?
I think it is still the levels of education, as specific standards are yet to be formalised. Online training is a popular option these days, but I am yet to see how good online practical training can be. A good therapist is not only someone who does a good treatment; therapists need more than skills and I believe that other essential skills, which ensure a successful therapist, cannot be taught online.
How effective are the various government bodies that the beauty sector works with, such as the Services Seta, NQA (National Qualifications Authority), Department of Higher Education & Training, etc? All these bodies have a place and I agree that we need them for quality assurance of all levels of education. Unfortunately, decisions at these bodies take a very long time and processes take too long to be implemented; therefore we cannot
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There will always be fly-by-nights in any industry. I believe each candidate should do her/his homework well enough to enquire about accreditations and registrations that schools offer. Currently, most of the schools are offering short courses and not full qualifications anymore. Short courses are not wrong or inferior; however, it is important to ensure that the courses are accredited by the formal quality assurance bodies, i.e. CHE (Council on Higher Education), QCTO (Quality Council for Trades and Occupations) and UMALUSI (Council for Quality Assurance in General and Further Education and Training).
TODAY, AT LAST, our industry is BEING RESPECTED for what it can do. We are able to WORK TOGETHER WITH MEDICAL PROFESSIONALS, which I believe is such a GOOD COMBINATION. What can be done to reduce this problem?
The best solution to this challenge is for everyone who would like to offer training courses ensure that they align them with the NQF.
I have heard over the years some salon owners complain that the standard of beauty school graduates is not what it should be. How would you respond?
The one thing that training providers cannot teach is experience. Salon owners are looking for a therapist with experience, a therapist who can sell, and a therapist that adds to the bottom-line of the business. They want therapists with the necessary soft skills. We give the student the tools and understanding of how to do it, but the student needs to practice in a real-life situation in order to understand the impact they have on the success of a salon. All our employers who need to employ therapists have a few to many years of experience themselves, and that is not possible to find with a student who has just completed her training and is entering the workplace. Training providers and salon owners need to work together to accomplish this, and it is possible through a process of work integrated learning. Unfortunately, this process has not been successfully implemented in our industry yet.
Following LOCKDOWN, students want to COME BACK TO THE SCHOOL ENVIRONMENT, however their discipline is NOT THE SAME AS BEFORE. We find that they want to decide when they WISH TO BE IN CLASS, and they want all the OPTIONS FOR TEACHING – in class as well as online
specific number of hours are important for good practice)? Go to the school and see for yourself if that is the environment that will be beneficial to you.
During lockdown, beauty education moved online but how have you found this year?
Students want to come back to the school environment, however their discipline is not the same as before. We find that they want to decide when they wish to be in class, and they want all the options for teaching – in class as well as online.
I believe that the Isa Carstens Academy was the first to receive international recognition from CIDESCO. Why is it so important for South African beauty schools to have this kind of recognition?
During 1978, when Isa Carstens opened the school, there was no formal syllabus available to train from. As she had done the CIDESCO examination herself, she decided to team up with CIDESCO to set the standards for her training. CIDESCO assisted for many years in providing guidelines and assessment criteria, which formed the basis of the training at the school. CIDESCO is a strong name in the industry worldwide and it opens doors for our candidates for employment internationally. This is the reason why we still offer this examination to our students.
If I were someone interested in pursuing a career in beauty – what should I be looking for in a beauty school?
Accreditations, registrations. How long has the school been in business? What are the teaching hours (as practical training takes time and a
I see that you offer a higher certificate in front desk administration – this is such an important area and one quite neglected as often there is no staff member particularly assigned to this position. Please comment.
For this exact reason, we decided to do a one-year course in front desk administration. The reception position is critical to any business, and we have found that therapists are good receptionists as they understand the heart of the business. Having said this, they do not always have the administration skills. Therefore, we offer a programme where the candidate can do only administration subjects and retail training, as well as an option to do administration subjects and Beauty subjects like manicure, pedicure, make-up, waxing and body massage. This allows the receptionist to help in the salon where there might be walk-ins and/or double bookings.
What is your own history in the beauty industry?
I am the youngest of four children and the late Isa Carstens was my mother. After my matric year, I did the one-year CIDESCO course presented by my mother’s school in Stellenbosch. At that time, all students had to do six months practical before receiving the CIDESCO diploma, which I then completed at my mother’s salon in Stellenbosch. I became the manager within three years of my employment there. After getting married, I had my own salon and moved to Namibia. During 1987, I returned to Stellenbosch and started as lecturer at the Isa Carstens Academy. I subsequently became managing director and after my
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mother’s passing in 2022, my husband Gerhard and I became the owners of the Academy.
What made you want to be an educator?
To be honest, when I returned from Namibia, that was the only job available and the quickest option for me to earn a salary. However, after becoming an educator, I realised how important good practice is and what the responsibility of an educator is. As I really enjoyed my industry, I wanted to instill this passion into our therapists in training so that they would become a success in our industry and improve standards. Teaching skin and body therapy was my passion. After meeting Eve Taylor, an aromatherapy expert from the UK, I fell in love with aromatherapy and this became my special subject.
What have been the highlights of your career?
The highlight of my career is seeing our students successfully integrated within the industry, to see them successful in their own businesses. Another highlight for me was when our qualifications were accredited by CHE (Council on Higher Education) and the Academy registered by The Department of Higher Education and Training. This achievement means that students qualifying at the Academy can follow an academic career and end up with a PhD in Somatology. I believe this opens so many doors for them and sets higher standards in our industry.
What else would you like to achieve in your beauty career?
As an educator and someone who believes in good practice, I would like to see that all training follow the NQF (National Qualifications Framework) for all training courses. The NQF ensures specific levels of all training and is a formal structure where anyone will be able to understand the level of training achieved. This will then set specific levels for our industry and employers will easier understand what an employee is able to do and what can be expected from them in the workplace, especially now when so many medical professionals are employing therapists. A formal system of education will also form a platform for the professional bodies to set salary scales, as each level of work will then dictate their worth.
What are the qualities of the ideal therapist? • A dynamic personality that can handle stress and several different roles in the salon environment. • Being a people’s person, as the environment will demand constant socialising on a professional level. • Superior knowledge to effectively treat a client’s skin. • Patience, determination and confidence.
CURRENTLY, most of the schools are OFFERING SHORT COURSES and NOT FULL QUALIFICATIONS ANYMORE. Short courses are not wrong or inferior; however, it is IMPORTANT TO ENSURE that the courses are ACCREDITED BY the formal QUALITY ASSURANCE BODIES, i.e. CHE, QCTO and UMALUSI What are the qualities of the ideal beauty student?
• Good grooming habits. Would you get your hair done by someone who looks as if they just rolled out bed? • Adaptability – being able to accept that not everything is cast in stone and that routines can change. • Exceptional customer service skills. • Stamina and dexterity – the days are long, and you need to be able to be as fresh and friendly in the afternoon as you are in the early morning. • Pleasant personality. • Good listener.
What are the qualities of the ideal educator? • Ability to develop trusting, productive relationships. The most frequent response is that a great teacher develops relationships with students to build their self-esteem and confidence. • Patient, caring, kind. • Knowledge of learners – what kind of learners are they? • Dedication to teaching, continuous self-empowering and self-growth. • Subject matter knowledge and continuous research on her/his subjects.
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HAIR NEWS Session Label Schwarzkopf Professional’s range of iconic and exclusively professional styling products has been revamped, complete with new minimalistic, edgy and recyclable matte packaging and straightforward product names. A brand in its own right, Session Label comprises eight, high-performance formulas designed to help hairstylists #CRAFTTHEDIFFERENCE. Session Label has introduced four brand new innovations and relaunched four of the most loved and highperformance formulations from the previous range. The Thickener is a volumising blow-dry spray with hydrolyzed wheat protein and panthenol that bulks up the hair and adds grip, leaving hair feeling thicker. Then there is The Definer, a curl cream that shapes, controls and defines curls without frizziness or a crunchy feel. The formula gives a moisturized hair feel and is perfect for the utilisation with hot tools. A remouldable matte styling paste, The Paste, has Berry Wax and Tapioca Starch to give flexible texture for
greater volume and definition. The Texturizer, an undonelook texture spray with Tapioca Starch and Panthenol, creates lightweight texture and volume for fuller-looking tousled hair with a moisturised feel. For workable fixation and control, The Flexible is a dry, light hold hairspray, with The Strong, a firm hold hairspray. 011 617 2614
Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front
STMNT for men’s grooming From Henkel Beauty Care, STMNT Grooming Goods is a new, lifestyle-driven professional grooming brand that was developed through a collaborative approach in response to the recent merge of barbering with hairdressing. A team of innovative barbers by trade and creators by nature have founded STMNT Grooming Goods. They are: Julius Arriola aka Julius Cvesar (@JULIUSCAESAR); Sofie Pok aka Staygold (@STAYGOLD31); and Miguel Gutierrez aka Nomad Barber (@NOMADBARBER). Collectively, they have over half a million followers on Instagram and they’re building a growing community of movers and shakers that influence the hairdressing world. The result is three distinct styling collections, accompanied by a 5-piece care line. Julius Cvesar has developed three products and two key looks to take grooming to the next level – STMNT Shine Paste for understated shine; STMNT Matte with the super matte effect and STMNT Hairspray. This collection features Julius Cvesar’s signature scent: a twist of creamy coconut and sandalwood with inflections of orris. Staygold Sofie has created a unique collection of
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products that truly hold their own, each with a key look designed to rewrite the styling rulebook: STMNT Fiber Pomade for messy texture; STMNT Wax Powder to transform the way you style; and STMNT Spray Powder for rough texture. This collection features Staygold’s signature scent: with citrus, aquatic and woody notes. Nomad Barber Miguel’s collection features three essential products and two key looks: STMNT Classic Pomade; STMNT Dry Clay to rough it up with extra matte impact; and STMNT Grooming Spray, a multipurpose prep and style support. This collection features Nomad Barber’s signature scent: rich with spices, lavender and a hint of wood. STMNT Care –the founding collective has also created a 5-piece line up of high performing care products designed to create the perfect canvas for styling and developed for all hair and beard types. The STMNT Care range includes Shampoo, All-In-One Cleanser; Conditioner; Beard Oil; and Hair & Body Cleansing Bar. This collection features its own signature scent: fresh citrus and lavender with tonka bean. 011 617 2614
towering, intricately braided updo designed by Vernon Francois for Lupita Nyong’o was definitely one of the most talked about styles at the recent 94th Academy Awards (Oscars) held in Los Angeles. Lupita Nyong’o (Instagram @vernonfrancois)
Vanessa Hudgens (Instagram @vanessahudgens)
Lupita Nyong’o’s regal Oscars beehive hits the right note Regarded as the most prestigious of all film awards, the Oscars are unquestionably Hollywood’s big night and a superb opportunity for stars to pull out all the stops in the style department, as Joanna Sterkowicz reports
Billie Eilish (Instagram @billieeilish)
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Serena Williams (Instagram @ serenawilliams)
Venus Williams (Instagram @ venuswilliams)
Francois wrote on his Instagram page (@ vernonfrancois): “Lupita’s delicate sisterlocks are majestically swept up, hand-shaped and contoured with precision, for a soft yet striking final look that elongates her neckline. I used a blend of basket weaving, wefting and loc extension techniques to create an asymmetric playful structure that echoes the floral design of Lupita’s dress. The artistry creates the illusion of fluidity.” Vanessa Hudgens channeled Hollywood icon, Audrey Hepburn, with a twisted bun (and extensions) piled high on the top of her head. This is not the first time that Hudgens has opted for Hepburn-style glamour in the hair department and it suits her so well. An acknowledged red carpet style queen, ‘Dune’ and ‘Euphoria’ actress, Zendaya, wore a killer outfit as always, complemented this time by softly, swept back hair that did not hide her natural waves. One of the night’s hosts, comedienne Amy Schumer, had her golden blonde hair styled into neat waves coming off a deep side parting, tucked behind the ear. Tennis superstar Serena Williams sported the bluntest of blunt bobs in a honey coloured hue, while sister, Venus Williams, went for all-out 1960s glam, with a very teased and voluminous half-updo. The young star of ‘King Richard’, Demi Singleton, wowed with an extremely high fishtail that skimmed down to the middle of her back. Oscar nominee, Kristen Stewart, had her textured blonde waves flowing out of the deepest of side partings, with gelled chocolate brown roots teased to add height at the top. Best Actress Oscar winner, Jessica Chastain, had her red hair swept high in a ponytail, with a few strands framing her perfect bone structure, while Lilly James’ long, mid-brown hair had a studiously casual look. Always one to make a statement on the red carpet, Tracee Ellis Ross had her natural curls slicked back into a tight bun. This minimalist style made her revealing red dress pop even more. Zoe Kravitz also rocked a similar look, but with super-short, side-swept bangs. Singer Billie Eilish’s hairstyle was reminiscent of the Veronica character in the ‘Archie’ comics – a black lob with flipped edges and thick fringe. Comedienne Tiffany Haddish also evoked a retro style – this time the early 1930s – with her short, platinum blonde hair coaxed into finger waves.
Fountain of youth It is said that in the five years after menopause, a woman’s skin loses a whopping 30% of its collagen, which is why it’s important for clients in this demographic to seek out skincare treatments and products with active antiageing ingredients
Photo by cottonbro from Pexels
Due to the hormonal changes associated with menopause, as well as exposure to the harsh South African sun, some women may experience pigmentation on their skin, along with sagging, crow’s feet and many more unpleasant skin issues. Although ageing is a natural process, it can leave one with less confidence than before.
These elements are worsened by environmental stress, such as constant blue light exposure, pollution and smoking. According to the experts at Thalgo La Beautë Marine, two types of dark spots appear over time: invisible dark spots that can cause dull skin tone and make the face look less youthful; and visible dark spots. These make the complexion uneven and give skin a less youthful appearance. Thalgo believes it’s important to find the right product to brighten up the skin and help restore the youthful glow you once knew. To this end, the brand has introduced Thalgo Lumiere Marine, for a brighter skin and even skin tone. This is positioned as the first anti-dark spots range with brown algae extract, which brightens and evens skin tone with an innovative triple exfoliation treatment protocol and proven efficacy that is visible and lasting. Brown algae originates from the North-West part of the Pacific Ocean (Japan, Korea, North-East part of
China, South-East part of Russia). This active ingredient reduces dark spots, inhibits the activation of tyrosinase, the enzyme central to the process of melanin production. It also protects your skin against environmental stress, which worsens pigmentation disorders. The range has many different products which are easily recognisable in the beautiful white and clear packaging. Clarifying Water Essence, Brightening Correcting Serum, Targeted Dark Spot Corrector, Brightening Fluid and Brightening Cream. To get the most out Lumiere Marine and your menopausal skincare routine, Thalgo suggests supplementing it with the Thalgo Collagène 10 000 dietary supplement for effectiveness at the heart of the dermis. The core of the Collagène 10 000 formula is Marine Collagen Peptan, which has been proved to remain active in the body for 14 days.
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SKINCARE Peptide power
The approach taken to treat menopausal skin by award-winning, certified organic biotech skincare company, Esse, is to address the essential fatty acid decline that most menopausal women would experience, as well as the decrease in sebum output associated with a drop in oestrogen. Esse’s Professional Omega Mask provides an optimal blend of probiotics, actives and omegas 3, 6 and 9 in an easy to process format. It restores and comforts dry, stressed skin; nourishes and softens fine lines; restores barrier function; and stimulates cellular regeneration. This product is only available to professionals to incorporate into their facial treatments. The Esse Repair Oil, which is high in essential fatty acids, can be used to boost the nourishment of your client’s moisturiser as well. It can be used as a serum or mixed with moisturiser. This intensely nourishing oil supplies vitamin E and an ideal blend of omega fatty acids from flax, marula and rosehip. It’s an easily absorbed oil that builds barrier function, plumps and softens the skin, while repairing and regenerating cells. Also from Esse, the Ageless Serum contains adaptogens that will adapt to what a menopausal skin needs. It is designed to address the concerns of more mature clients whose skin requires firming and lifting. The firming and lifting effects of this age-defying serum are enhanced with long-term use. It contains a range of probiotic and plant extracts that improve skin structure and reduce pigmentation.
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The Osonö (pronounced ‘Oh-sonay’) range of dermacosmeceutical products utilises advancing techniques in biosciences and biotechnology to optimise skin health in order to address skincare concerns and provide ethically sourced and manufactured skincare that deliver results for all skin types. This entire range is manufactured using plant based ingredients. Its advanced formulations are 95% natural, with 64% of the ingredients functional, organic and active. The products are free from artificial colourants, artificial fragrances, parabens, sulphates, phthalates, formaldehydes, ethanol, animal derived ingredients and free from animal tested ingredients. Osonö’s Anti-Ageing Peptide Serum is a light hydra gel that melts into liquid when it touches the skin, with super-fast absorption and no product wastage. It contains the documented and award-winning Matrixyl peptide in conjunction with sodium hyaluronate, a powerful hydrator. Says distributor Markus Bezuidenhout of Enozo Cosmetics: “Osonö’s Anti-Ageing Peptide Serum literally fills wrinkles from the bottom up and prevents premature ageing. It gives skin a radiant, healthy, youthful appearance, while hydrating and plumping the skin and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.” The Osonö Hyaluronic Acid Serum is a light, hydra-gel that delivers hyaluronic acid right into the dermis, where it drenches the cells and hydrates the skin. Dehydration is one of the major causes of ageing and hyaluronic acid is to the skin what water is to plants. Without it, skin dries up and crinkles. Peptides in this product
stimulate the regeneration of collagen fibres to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Age Reverse from Six Skincare was developed to turn back the damaging effects of time. This revolutionising formulation holds up to its name by stimulating collagen in the dermis, as well as increasing the rate of cell turn over. Key to Age Reverse’s efficacy is an advanced age-fighting solution rich in Artichoke Leaf Peptide, retinol and wild yam. With restored density and hydration, skin recovers suppleness and wrinkles are smoothed. This moisturiser can be used in the morning and evening. Artichoke Leaf Peptide is rich in vitamin C, which helps your skin synthesise collagen to boost the skin’s natural cell renewal process, effectively tightening and reducing the appearance of your pores, as well as aiding detoxification. Wild yam extract contains antioxidants, which limit free radical production and is ideal for keeping the skin looking youthful. Additionally, retinol, which exfoliates the skin, increases skin cell turnover and stimulates collagen synthesis. Rose Hip Oil contains vitamins B, C, D and E, reducing and reversing sun damage as well as reducing wrinkles. Finally, black current seed oil slows ageing and restores the skin’s youthful glow.
Up to 50% of the skin’s natural moisture barrier is comprised of ceramides, which are lipids (fats) that naturally occur in the skin. They are long-chain fatty acids that work like building blocks to help support skin’s barrier. Combat dry skin and pair ceramides in your routine with a daily moisturiser to help lock in hydration. Ceramides are especially critical and beneficial for people who have chronically dry skin.
Photo by Christina Morillo from Pexels
hyaluronic acid to help skin hold onto water for long-lasting hydration, while panthenol, a pro-vitamin B5 with humectant properties, improves skin hydration. After cleansing, spritz directly onto face and neck, avoiding the eyes.
Boosting skin health
DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers a variety of products that encourage skin health alongside the different menopausal effects on the skin. The brand’s Hyalu7 Boost and Topical ceramides can help strengthen skin’s barrier – supporting skin hydration and guarding against irritation. In short: ceramides can help skin bounce back. Ceramides can be added to your skincare routine with Dermalogica’s Hyaluronic Ceramide Mist – a long-lasting, hydrating hyaluronic acid and ceramide mist that helps to smooth fine lines and strengthen skin’s barrier. Rose Water (also known as rosa centifolia and rose de mai) has long been used as a homeopathic skincare ingredient. Rose water is naturally rich in vitamin C, a potent antioxidant that can help skin fight the effects of environmental aggressors. It is also known for its moisturising, soothing, and antiseptic properties. Also found in the Hyaluronic Ceramide Mist are four types of
ACC Hyaluronic provides humectant benefits, locking moisture into the skin, whilst helping to support collagen and elastin proteins within the dermis for a plumper, healthier skin. Also from DermaFix, the Ceramide Complex and DermaFix Ceramide Eye Complex is formulated as a stable emulsion base containing Ceramides 2, 3, 6 II and Phytosphingosine, for superior barrier health and support, along with sodium hyaluronate which penetrates deeper into the skin for enhanced skin hydration. DermaFix DeCeLeRate and DermaFix Collagen Conformer make use of smart peptide technology, providing the skin with the necessary building blocks for healthy tissue formation, encouraging skin reparation whilst promoting the production of collagen and elastin in the fight against skin ageing. Says DermaFix’s Ursula Volbrecht: “Retinol is another ingredient that is often associated with skin health and vitality, working to stimulate fibroblast proliferation for improved collagen and elastin production, and offering retexturising benefits on the skin’s surface. DermaFix ACC Retinol + and MD Vitamin A Propionate offer all the skin vitalising benefits of retinol without the typical skin irritation and keratolytic side effects often associated with retinol use.”
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In a flash!
A mineral-rich spring water spray from pHformula, H20 flash is ideal for daily use and can be used to soothe sensitive skin. It conforms and refreshes the skin after cleansing and hydrates it in warmer weather. Formulated with the magical properties of Kigelia Africana, the spray can also be used to help set make-up. 082 338 2368
The Six BB Cream Deep is a blemish balm for those who want a single moisturiser to protect and nourish, while providing a natural healthy glow to the skin. With titanium dioxide to reflect sun rays, centella asiatica to build collagen, and niacinamide as an antiinflammatory, this all-in-one BB Cream is a must have and a perfect finish to any aesthetic treatment. 011 312 7840
In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments
New look tints
The RefectoCil range of eyelash and eyebrow tints have received a facelift. Sporting new, modern and sleek packaging, the products stand out on the shelf and can be easily identified. RefectoCil Tint Colours include: Pure Black, Blue Black, Deep Blue, Graphite, Natural Brown, Light Brown, Chestnut, Red and Blonde Brow. 082 5756 567 / 031 209 2548
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Road to recovery
The Exuviance Soothing Recovery Serum is ideal for sensitive and post-procedure skin. Its combination of PHA/ Patented Bionic + Willow Herb and Algae Extract target four underlying causes of redness. Together they fortify skin, reduce sensitivity to triggers, visibly reduce redness and restore calm to even the most sensitive skin type. 011 545 9300
As the EFFECT OF THIS TREATMENT is caused by NATURAL COLLAGEN PRODUCTION, it is important for us to UNDERSTAND THAT the result is GRADUAL IN ONSET and will only really BECOME EVIDENT after a COUPLE OF WEEKS.
The new era of
bio-stimulation Dr Mark Opperman focuses on a brand new aesthetic anti-ageing product that offers an alternative to traditional wrinkle reduction and filler treatments
n this age of eating, living and being more organic, the results of recent worldwide surveys conducted on women’s wishes for aesthetic treatment outcomes reflect the shift towards more organic treatment modalities. These surveys show that most women would like a more natural result with a gradual onset that are longer lasting, rather than traditional tissue filler and wrinkle reduction treatments, which often result in an ‘overdone’ look. Make way for an exciting new player in the South African aesthetics arena. It is an organic, biocompatible and bio-degradable treatment solution to treat the effects of decreased and damaged collagen safely in all skin types. Welcome to Sculptra ® – the original (and to date only product of its kind on the market) bio-stimulator from the world’s largest independent pharmaceutical company in dermatology, Galderma. In my 22 years of practicing in aesthetic medicine I have had the opportunity to work with many different products, from toxins to tissue fillers and skincare products. Few of them have exited me as much as this one.
To understand why I rate this new treatment so highly, we
need to take a quick look at one of the major causes of skin ageing – loss of collagen. This results in tell-tale signs of ageing, namely an increase in skin laxity and the thinning and sagging of our skin, all of which lead to increased wrinkle formation and a lacklustre appearance. Collagen is a fibrous protein and is made by cells called fibroblasts. It is found throughout our bodies, including our bones and muscles, and makes up a staggering 70% of our skin. Collagen plays a pivotal role in the structure as well as the support function and shape of our skin and is what gives us a youthful looking complexion. The production of collagen, as well as the body’s ability to renew it, decrease with age; this is referred to as intrinsic ageing. There is, unfortunately, not much that we can do about this and by our mid-50s, we can expect a 35% loss in skin collagen. Extrinsic factors that cause collagen loss, however, are in our control. Decreasing our exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays (UV radiation) and the use of good sunscreen can go a long way towards protecting our collagen. Lifestyle factors, including cigarette smoke and diets rich in sugar, are proven to not only decrease collagen production but actively break it down. Vitamin C and healthy fats are essential for collagen formation.
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fibroblast activity. Most of them depend on some kind of injury to the skin – think mechanical injury through needling devices and energy-based treatments with lasers. There are other products which have a bio-stimulatory effect, resulting in increased collagen deposition. The major difference, however, is in the type of collagen that is produced. There are many different types of collagens. Scar tissue, for instance, consists mainly of type 3 collagen and has a rope like structure. The collagen we are after is type 1, which has a more random and 3-dimentional structure. PLLA treatment produces 90% type 1 collagen, setting it apart from other treatments.
THE PRODUCTION OF COLLAGEN as well as the BODY’S ABILITY TO RENEW IT DECREASE WITH AGE, this is referred to as INTRINSIC AGEING. There is, unfortunately, NOT MUCH THAT WE CAN DO about this and by our mid-50s, we can expect a 35% LOSS IN SKIN COLLAGEN. PLLA
The active ingredient in Sculptra ® is PLLA or poly-L-lactic acid. The PLLA particles are dispersed in sterile water and when injected into the deep part of the dermis, create a controlled inflammatory reaction. It is this that activates and recruits more of the cells responsible for collagen formation and renewal (i.e. fibroblasts). The more fibroblasts and the higher their activity, the more collagen is produced. PLLA has widely been used for many years in medical products like dissolvable sutures and implants in reconstructive surgery. It now has approval for aesthetic use in over 40 countries with both CE and FDA registration. A noteworthy plus to the safety profile of Sculptra ® is that over time, the PLLA is naturally broken down into lactic acid, which is then metabolised into water and carbon dioxide and eliminated from the body. As the PLLA particles are suspended in water, there is no associated risk of vascular occlusion as with tissue fillers. It is only fair to say that there are other ways of stimulating
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The treatment itself is quick, virtually painless and without any downtime, with the product placed in the subcutaneous layer of the skin through a series of injections. This can be done using either a needle, cannula or both, depending on the area treated and your doctor’s preference. The simple rule of thumb is that you will require one treatment, usually one vial of product, per decade of life. In other words, a person in their 30s to early 40s will require three treatment sessions, 40s to 50s will need four sessions etc. But this will be determined by your individual needs like improvement in skin quality, laxity or volume loss. Treatments are usually spaced six to eight weeks apart. As the effect of this treatment is caused by natural collagen production, it is important for us to understand that the result is gradual in onset and will only really become evident after a couple of weeks. You might be surprised by your friends complimenting your skin before you yourself notice any real changes. What I love most about this treatment is that it addresses so many of the signs and conditions we associate with ageing through our body’s own natural processes. The results are long-lasting, with more than 80% of patients saying that the results of their treatment are still good to excellent 25 months after the initial treatment. That it can safely be used on all skin types, unlike some light and energy-based treatments, is a definite plus. It is safe to combine with other treatments modalities and increases not only the effect, but often the longevity thereof. In my practice I use Sculptra ® to treat thin, lax, and sagging skin, volume loss, scaring as well as dry and damaged skin. It is a versatile, safe and lasting treatment with an overall improvement of the skin, resulting in a natural and younger looking you.
Since 2001, Dr Mark Opperman has specialised in and exclusively practiced non-surgical medical aesthetics, with a focus on integrative anti-ageing solutions. After graduating from the University of Pretoria’s Medical School in 1999, Dr Opperman practiced medical aesthetics in Los Angeles and Miami. He has had numerous articles published in prestigious and mainstream publications.
Powering Up the Skin
Skin rejuvenation facial treatments that involve the use of machines continue to rise in popularity, with laser, IPL and radiofrequency among the most sought after technologies Photo by Mart Productions from Pexels
Alma ClearLift on Harmony XL Pro
The Alma Harmony XL Pro Lasers System, distributed by Best Lasers, is a powerful and versatile treatment solution for a wide range of aesthetic needs. Alma Lasers’ scientific researchers have developed a very new and innovative generation of lasers that combine the benefit of a
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non-ablative and a fractionated laser device, promising improvements in the appearance of ageing skin without harming the epidermis. Myfacemybody announced the ClearLift laser applicator by Alma as the ‘best anti-ageing treatment’ of 2019 in the UK. Says Best Lasers’ Andrew Best: “ClearLift is the most comprehensive nonablative Q-Switched 1064-nm Nd: YAG treatment solution for skin rejuvenation that has achieved excellent results in clinics across the globe. This technique is based on the principle of absorption of light and the different chromophores in the
skin, such as water, melanin or haemoglobin, resulting in selected damage limited to the target.” Best notes that ClearLift is considered a popular lunchtime procedure for skin rejuvenation as it has an easy ‘in-and-out’ approach that’s virtually painless without the peeling and swelling downtime. It delivers intense nanosecond pulses to the target area, resulting in a photoacoustic effect. ClearLift is considered entirely safe for all skin types, preventing the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory erythema in darker skin types and even for areas with a high risk of scarring such as the chest. According to Best, this laser treatment differs from traditional fractional laser skin resurfacing because it goes deeper into the dermis, targeting collagen. Its passive refractive optical element creates a 5x5 mm matrix with 25 microscopic columns of laser-mediated effects (microcolumns) measuring ~200µm in diameter per microcolumn and high power density per pixel. This technology is based on the heating of the sub-dermal layer and the underlying extracellular matrix, which is followed by tissue contraction. A controlled thermal injury results in tissue shrinkage, with an inflammatory response accompanied by the migration of fibroblasts into the area. No numbing is required before treatment.
The Endymed Pro offers the most effective, controlled and focused 3Deep radiofrequency treatments for the face and body with minimum to no downtime and safe for all skin types. This flexible platform consists of seven applicators, four for the face and three for the body for all your
client’s aesthetic needs, ranging from tightening to shaping, radiofrequency microneedling and fractional skin resurfacing. Says Melissa Eksteen of distributor, Radiant Healthcare: “The Endymed Intensif applicator, which is motorised microneedle radiofrequency, offers incomparable results for deep wrinkle reduction, as well as lifting and tightening and the improvement of the skin texture. There is no bleeding or bruising, with no downtime. “The Endymed FSR applicator, with the unique 3Deep scanning and volumetric dermal heating technology, offers the most advanced skin resurfacing and rejuvenation treatments on all skin types with minimum downtime. This fractional applicator is perfect for deep wrinkle treatments, skin tightening, the improvement of skin texture and enlarged pores.”
Available from Hitech Lasers, the award-winning LUXEA platform from DEKA is an expandable modular system with eight different technologies in 12 handpieces (IPL/ laser/ radiofrequency) that offer a huge variety of skin treatments. Says Naomi Olivier from Hitech Lasers: “We believe there is no single technology to improve all clinical signs of skin ageing. Combination
treatments provide the best solution. LUXEA makes it easy for the physician to customise treatments to meet the needs of each patient.” The system offers a variety of skin rejuvenation solutions to improve skin damage, texture and tone. These range from non-ablative procedures with minimal downtime, to ablative technologies with maximum efficacy. IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) technology improves overall skin appearance. The LUXEA LILAC pulsed light handpiece (with five wavelength filters) is the most versatile and meets the majority of patient needs. LILAC’s built-in cooling gently, safely and effectively removes various skin imperfections. It stimulates collagen and elastic fibre production over a sequence of treatments with the aim to promote a very visible cosmetic result. The appearance, colour and texture of the skin improves without lengthy post-op recovery time. The SETIS Bipolar RF handpiece treats sagging skin and stimulates fibroblast activity to produce new collagen. It exerts a thermal effect in the dermis without wounding the cutaneous layer. The passage of RF through the tissue produces resistance which transforms into thermal energy, which in turn results in a tighter, smoother skin. For skin rejuvenation, LUXEA’s ERISE laser handpiece is the choice to complement the IPL and RF technologies. It is a 2940 nm Er:YAG laser source, which falls in the near infrared portion of the wavelength spectrum. The Er:YAG laser can remove as little as 1 mm of skin with a single laser impact, so laser skin resurfacing is an effective technique for minimally invasive and effective management of several cutaneous conditions and lesions. During an ERISE Er:YAG fractional resurfacing treatment, the energy from the laser creates minute ‘columns of thermal destruction’ in the top-most layers of the skin. Immediate collagen shrinkage makes the skin appear tighter and it stimulates the growth of new, healthy skin cells to replace old, damaged cells.
Nanofractional RF available on the VenusVivaTM and Venus VersaTM is a safe and versatile skin rejuvenation technology for skin resurfacing. Thyrza Price from distributor, Astra Health Systems, explains that RF energy creates channels in the skin and fully customisable ablation and coagulation to enable operators to adjust for a variety of conditions. “SmartScanTM delivers staggered energy to the applicator pins and a patented pattern selector enables accurate targeting. Nanofractional RF is safe for all skin types, including skin types IV – VI, a group that is typically considered at risk using IPL or fractional laser. “Venus VersaTM IPL photorejuvenation is an industry standard for reducing the appearance of vascular and pigmented lesions. Adjustable fluence and pulse duration effectively target the lesion through its phases of reduction. Patient safety and comfort is achieved with advanced, adjustable cooling. TriBellaTM is a Total Facial Rejuvenation protocol. It combines IPL, (MP)2 and Nanofractional RF in one treatment session to enhance tone, tightness and texture. IPL and TriBellaTM is indicated for skin types I to III,” comments Price. She reminds aesthetic practitioners that light- and energy-based technologies in South Africa are subject to SAHPRA registration, on the basis of carrying the CE mark of conformity in accordance with Directive 93/42/EEC of the European Union for medical devices. Clinics and salons should keep this in mind when investing in technology.
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NAIL FILE ISSUE 51
Correct acrylic mix ratio
Oscars glitz Red Carpet nails
Understanding the upper arch
he really exciting thing about Hollywood awards season is the fabulous red carpet fashion that it brings with it. In the past few years, we have seen an increased focus on the nail designs that the stars sport on these occasions. In this issue we focus on the Oscars – regarded as the culmination of awards season – and the various nail looks it spawned. One area of nail enhancement application that is not fully understood by many nail techs is that of the upper arch. In this issue, the owner of an award-winning nail salon and the head of education for a leading professional nail brand, provides an in-depth article on this topic. We also include in this issue a special feature on liquid & powder (acrylic) systems and some valuable advice on application. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Photo by Juliana Stein from Pexels
What’s INSIDE 46
Industry News Stay in the know
Ask the Experts
How do I handle my more challenging clients?
Understanding the perfect arch Top tips for liquid & powder application
Step by Step Cartoon crazy
Product Focus Acrylic systems
All the latest releases
Top Tech Talk
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA
Samantha Chido Benny
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The nail looks that slayed the Oscars red carpet Chromes, nudes and moody dark shades were among the top nail trends sported by the stars on the red carpet at the recent 94th Academy Awards (Oscars) in Hollywood. Best Actress winner for ‘The Eyes of Tammy Faye’, Jessica Chastain, wore a plain chrome colour that her nail stylist, Julie Kandalec, described as ‘the gold Rachel Zegler champagne Ethereal Angel (Instagram @kourtneykardash) look’. This rose gold shade matched the top part of her beautiful two-tone ombre gown, as well as her strawberry blonde hair. Chastain’s nails were mid-length and almond-shaped. Also going the chrome route was ‘Euphoria’ star and red carpet darling, Zendaya, whose shortish, plain silver metallic nails perfectly matched her ultra-stylish two-piece outfit – a white satin cropped shirt and a beautifully constructed, long silver sequined gown with train. Nails were by Tom Bachik, who was also responsible for Hailee Steinfeld’s nail design – a silver glitter shimmer. Star of ‘Brooklyn Nine-Nine’ and the Oscar-winning animated film, ‘Encanto’, Stephanie Beatriz, rocked a delicate, silver glitter French manicure. Reality star, Kourtney Kardashian, made an impact with an interesting version of a French manicure, comprising of a thin, V-shaped tip in black. The current American ‘it girl’ of the music scene, Billie Eilish, who won the Best Original Song Oscar for the Bond film, ‘No time to die’, generally sports extreme length and avant-garde nail styles on the red carpet. This time though, Eilish opted for a simple French manicure, albeit fairly long and square. Rapper, Megan Thee Stallion, chose nude pink talons in a lipstick shape. Nude was also the shade of choice for Vanessa Hudgens, whose long nails had crystals at the cuticles. ‘Black-ish’ star, Tracee Ellis Ross, is known for making style statements and her revealing red Oscars dress left many wondering how it actually managed to stay up – it was clearly a gravity-defying architectural triumph. Not to detract from the dress, Ellis Ross went for a really subtle nail look, elegant and oval. Oscar winner Nicole Kidman’s ruby red, plain nails matched her lipstick, both contrasting sharply with the
Jessica Chastain (Instagram @julieknailsnyc)
Kourtney Kardashian (Instagram @kourtneykardash)
Zendaya (Instagram @zendaya)
Stephanie Beatriz (Instagram @stephaniebeatriz)
pale blue gown she wore. Perhaps the most unusual colour combination between dress and nails was seen on Best Supporting Actress nominee and star of ‘King Richard’, Aunjanue Ellis, whose dress was a vivid shade of burnt orange, paired with bright green nails in a shade that Allure magazine called ‘slime green’. Dark nail shades, ranging from deep emerald green to burgandy were seen on country music legend, Reba McIntyre, and ‘West Side Story’ star, Rachel Zegler respectively. Singer/ songwriter H.E.R. wore a nail design that Beauty Crew Australia described as ‘inspired wavy 3D jelly nail art manicure in a neutral palette with unexpected splashes of cornflower blue’.
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The ‘Toy Story’ set
SA’s Tessa Tullues wins international nail art competition Tessa Tullues has won the Masters Fantasy Art category of the recent Mia Secret World Championship. The 3D category was themed Old School Cinema/ New School Cinema and Tullues, who is the director of Mia Secret SA, as well as an international master educator for the brand, chose to do her design based on the popular animated film, ‘Toy Story’. Says Tullues: “This journey has taught me that anything is possible with an amazing brand and that when you are out of your comfort zone, great things can be achieved. My competitors are amazingly talented and I never thought I would come this far and win an international title. I am so proud to have won the highest level Mia Secret competition category in the world, against more than 50 competitors.” Tullues is not the only South African to have excelled in the competition. Gold educator for Mia Secret, Colinda Osborne, won the Salon Trends - Short Gel Nails category of the competition, while also placing second in the 3D Mix High Fantasy Category. Her pyramid themed nail set was called, ‘Ancient Wonder of the World’. “I have been in the nail industry for 22 years, where I get to live out my passion and inspire others to follow
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Colinda Osborne’s ‘Ancient Wonders of the World’
Sonja Van Staden’s winning set
Sonja Van Staden
their dreams in the industry,’ comments Osborne. Sonja Van Staden of 7th heaven nails and a silver educator for Mia Secret SA, placed first in the 3D High Fantasy Category, Beginner Division. Says Van Staden: “For as long as I
can remember, I have had a passion for the nail industry, a place where I can portray my creativity and inspire others. My journey with Mia Secret began in 2019, when I joined them as a brand ambassador, before becoming an educator.”
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
Photo by Filip Bunkens on Unsplash
How do I handle my more challenging clients? believe there is no such thing as a difficult client, some are just a little more challenging than others, and it’s a matter of knowing how to deal with them. How you say or do something can make all the difference. Sometimes it’s as simple as giving the client a bit of TLC, being understanding and friendly, and making them feel that you are there for them. Some of my most challenging clients became my best clients. Here are some useful tips to handling challenging clients. Communicate effectively – good communication skills are vital in order to ensure a good relationship between yourself and your clients. Be professional – you will only gain more respect from your clients by being professional in your attitude and approach. There is a very common saying that goes: ‘Familiarity breeds contempt’. Don’t think that because you have known a client for a long time that you can say and do what you want. Never make comments about a client’s weight, looks or religion, and keep personal problems and conversations at home. Be courteous, polite and respectful – always be respectful of your clients no matter what their age.
Be confident and approachable – don’t appear over-confident, otherwise you may come across as condescending. Be honest – honesty is the best policy. Be truthful and do not give the incorrect information or mislead your clients in any way. By being honest you will gain your clients’ trust. If you are not sure of something, rather let them know that you will find out and get back to them with the correct information. Be accountable – be accountable for your faults and mistakes and learn from them. Be responsible – legal responsibility rests with the professional when a treatment is performed. Never perform a treatment against your better judgment. Feedback – it is vital to know how your clients view you, your service, the quality of your work and your salon, to see if there are any areas in which you can improve.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for over 30 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
online @ probeauty.co.za
• A well-shaped upper arch will allow for a perfect clear, colour or French manicure finish.
Different strokes for different folks
Understanding the perfect upper arch
Founder and owner of the awardwinning Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort, Tania Biddle, delves into an area of product application that often does not receive enough attention
ver the years of being a nail technician, I have come to the realisation that it’s impossible to ever know enough. How is it possible that day after day and year after year, it can feel that I still have so much to learn? One of the things over the years that I have attempted to master is creating a perfect upper arch with a precise apex placement. I believe that many nail technicians do not know (and are possibly not taught) the huge importance of a perfectly shaped upper arch. The upper arch not only shows off a perfect nail but has multiple functions. • It provides a natural arch shape suited to each client. The upper arch forms part of a nail correction. A correction in shape is normally required when there is an imperfection on the natural nail such as a dent, a flat or a scooped nail, or a weak nail. The function of the upper arch is not only shape but also strength. • The upper arch provides support and durability to the nail, reinforcing the stress area and thus preventing the nail from bending back and forth, which would result in stress breaks. • The apex (i.e. the highest point of the upper arch) placement is determined by the length of the nail. This precise placement of product is crucial as this will support the nail as the nail grows out. If the upper arch is not placed correctly, the nail will either feel weak, or it may cause product lifting around the cuticle outline, as the weight of the arch is covering the free edge instead of the nail body.
online @ probeauty.co.za
With each client, the upper arch application will be different. This should be considered as a customised aspect for each treatment. A mistake I often come across is when technicians use the same application routine for all clients. Nail analysis is often overlooked. Each client is different – a different nail type, condition, nail length and different end result preferences. This should always be considered and each treatment adapted to provide the best possible end result. The created upper arch will be different on each individual client, depending on the structure of the natural nail and the length of the nail. This means that the amount of product used to create the arch will be dependent on the nail being worked on. An upper arch is applied to a natural nail or a nail extension such as a tip or sculpture. Perfecting the end result of the upper arch can be done whilst applying the product and final refinement can be achieved by filing and shaping the arch to perfection, using appropriate files and buffs. A useful method to evaluate the upper arch is to use the reflection of light, in other words how the light reflects and bounces off of the nail surface.
Tania Biddle is the owner and founder of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort, winner of the 2020 Professional Beauty Nail Salon of the Year. Biddle is also the head of education for Bio Sculpture.
STEP BY STEP
Cartoon Crazy Nail artist Marianka van Niekerk has created two fun designs of wellknown cartoon characters, each using exactly the same technique
WHAT THE ‘DUCK’?!
Start with your outlines. They don’t need to be perfect – it’s just so that you know where your colour placement should go.
Start by filling your colour. Fill it just inside the line because some colours tend to run, especially when you are doing multiple colours at once.
Add you shading lines, cure. Then add white lines so that the accent spaces pop a bit more, like eyes, mouth, outer lines (depending on how you want your light to fall, adding glare) and the small details, like nostrils, hair and so on.
A ‘GOOFY’ DESIGN
Marianka van Niekerk is the owner and founder of Elysian nails, as well as an ambassador and nail art educator for Zsa Zsa Professional Nails. She says: “Life in the seat of a nail tech is never boring, which is why I love my work. Not only is it my job, but my passion as well. Creating sets for clients that make them happy, makes me happy in return. I work with some of the most amazing people and we are always thriving to achieve the next amazing set.”
online @ probeauty.co.za
for liquid & powder application
For nail techs performing an acrylic application, getting the mix ratio between liquid and powder correct is vital The look of the bead
Achieving the proper mix ratio takes practice and a keen eye. Use your own judgement and your artist eye to look at the bead before placing it down. When the bead is formed and pulled from the powder, look at it and watch to make sure the powder gets absorbed onto the liquid. Make certain that no excess powder is lingering around the edges of the bead. If it stays too firm and looks dry, remove it and start over. Service breakdown could occur without the right amount of liquid. If the bead is too runny and wet, very gently tap it back into the powder to pick up an ever-so-slight amount of powder. A common mistake by nail techs is that they work too wet and don’t take the extra second to look at the bead first.
Photo by freestocks.org
A COMMON MISTAKE by nail techs is that they WORK TOO WET and don’t take the extra second to LOOK AT THE BEAD FIRST. If the bead is correct: excellent retention; strong and tough; clarity; prevents overexposure; proper set and cure time. If the bead is too wet: potential for lifting; bubbles; excessive shrinkage; overexposure; longer set and cure time. If the bead is too dry: lifting; weakness; lack of cohesion; bubbles.
The bead you create should feel good to your touch. When you place the bead on the nail, allow a few seconds for the bead to start to self-level. Depending on the powder you’ve chosen, total working control will occur in about 2-3 minutes. If the bead looks right but feels wrong, it might be your touch. When you first place the bead it will feel wetter than you expect it should but, as you work, the product will start to set up and firmer pressure will be required.
Mix ratio can also affect the colour of the bead. Use your artist eye to make sure from bead to bead that you are using the same mix ratio to achieve the same colour. Highly pigmented powders, such as coloured opaque and semi-opaque powders, contain more pigment. A drier bead on one of these powders will certainly look different. The more pigment a powder has, the more colour! The correct mix ratio ensures colour consistency and helps prevent marbelising. *This article was compiled by the NSI Education Team
online @ probeauty.co.za
Liquid & powder systems As with all nail products, when choosing a system to use for your acrylic treatments, it’s important to turn to professional brands only. Here are two to choose from
NSI’s Attraction Acrylic Liquid and Powder System creates natural-looking, thin nail enhancements with exceptional adhesion, strength and flexibility. The monomer draws the powder to the brush for quicker and easier bead pick-up. It also contains a non-yellowing formula with a UV shield to block out UV exposure. Attraction Acrylics never crystallise and none of the monomers contain MMA. There are now three new Attraction cover pinks – Baby Pink, Coral Pink and Dusty Pink. Free sample for the first 10 Nail techs who email the below address. What will you create today? #nsifabulousnails email@example.com 082 922 8839
ProHesion’s Nail Sculpting Powder encompasses Cross Link Technology, allowing strength and durability while still maintaining the ability to self-level in application. Also from ProHesion, the Nail Sculpting Liquid was developed with optimised hybrid molecules, resulting in a strong bond to the natural nail without the use of harsh acid primers, whilst maintaining flexibility and utilising technologies to accommodate the most sensitive clients. 011 447 0659
IN THE MARKET Handy remover
Nailz offers a unique Vitamin E Gel Polish Remover that comes in a tube for ease of use. This remover allows the nails to be nourished during the gel removing phase and prevent any allergic reactions, sensitivity or dryness that many clients experience during a normal soak-off with acetone. 011 262 2451
Photo by Allison Christine on Unsplash
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails
Colour all the way
The new Radiance Colour Collection from the Calgel + Colour Gel range consists of five on trend colours. These include a light pink, light yellow, sheer green, purple and glitter beige. All the shades are all available in a 2.5g jar. 011 624 1101
Light it up!
Bio Sculpture’s Ultra Curing Lamp is the ultimate solution for curing all of the brand’s gels. Featuring multiple curing settings, nail techs can use the sleek touchpad to select an optimum power curve for any Bio Sculpture gel. Intelligent power curve technology provides gentle curing to avoid heat spikes and ensures a proper through cure. 051 943 0377
NSI’s Tech Gel Colours are designed to give a maximum one-coat full coverage and cure to an ultra high gloss shine, completely tack free. This will cut down on service treatment times, as well as save in product usage. NSI Tech Gel Colours give the best of both worlds; opaqueness for full coverage with a bonus of endless art possibilities. 082 922 8839
online @ probeauty.co.za
Top Tech Talk
NailFile puts the spotlight on nail tech and beauty all-rounder, Samantha Chido Benny, of the Gifted MO salon in Johannesburg
For how long have you been a nail tech?
Eleven years. I did my training at Helia-D International Beauty School back in 2011 and have been employed at Gifted MO for over a year now.
What first made you want to pursue a career in nails?
Well, I have a passion for beauty. And, I love engaging with people while performing treatments on their nails and seeing the beautiful end results of how nails can be transformed, especially on the nail biters.
Do you only do nails or are you also trained in other aspects of beauty? I do waxing, eye lash extensions and brow lamination as well.
I LOVE ENGAGING with PEOPLE while PERFORMING TREATMENTS on their nails and SEEING THE BEAUTIFUL END RESULTS of how nails can be TRANSFORMED, especially on the nail biters.
online @ probeauty.co.za
What has been the highlight of your career?
That would be when I worked for the Sorbet Group and I was nominated for their Top Ten and was named as the Number 8 Top Nail Tech for the whole group in 2017.
Do you have any mentors in the nail industry? There is a guy I look up to on social media whose name is Tony. He’s helped me through watching his videos on the latest nail trends and also through some regular training sessions over the years to improve my skills and knowledge.
What nail services do you offer at Gifted MO and which is your favourite to perform?
We offer full nail services at the salon, namely acrylic nails, gel overlays, sculpturing, manicures, pedicures and heel treatments. My favourite is acrylic extensions, as it’s more creative and gives you avenues in which to showcase your skills.
Is there a demand for nail art in the salon?
Yes, I do nail art and once we get more requests for it, then I would like to undergo further training in that. In the meantime, I particularly enjoy doing marbling and glitter work.
OUR CUSTOMER service policy is to SERVE CLIENTS with ‘PICKS’ – this acronym means SERVING OUR CLIENTS WITH PASSION, INTENTION, CONFIDENCE, KNOWLEDGE AND A SMILE.
Which nail, hand and foot brands do you use at Gifted MO? We use the Elim brand, MediHeel, for our pedicure treatments, and Milk Solutions for the normal manicures and pedicures. Other brands are CND Vinylux, Bellucy Gel, Callux and Progaud Natura, as well as some Color Club Gel.
What is your customer service policy?
Gifted MO’s customer service policy to our clients is to serve them with ‘PICKS’ – this acronym means serving our clients with Passion, Intention, Confidence, Knowledge and a Smile.
How do you deal with demanding clients?
I listen carefully to clients’ concerns and then I come up with solutions to meet their needs to their satisfaction.
online @ probeauty.co.za
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AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS