AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
NAIL FILE REVEALING TREATMENTS Chemical peels
NATIONAL PRIDE SA Brands that export
Money, Money, Money
June 2022 | probeauty.co.za
GROSS PROFIT UNPACKED
IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 7
Local and international news
Crowning glory Focus on hair
In the market
Latest product launches
Big Buzz Business Conference Show Preview
What brands will be on display
Big Buzz Business Conference Programme Topics and speakers
Ask the Experts
Creating ambience in your spa Winter add-ons
Our planet needs you! 24
Out of (South) Africa SA Brands that export
The client, the skin and the peel
Salon owner addresses plastic waste
Aesthetic Medicine 34
Peeling in practice Clinic perspective
How to do a proper consult with your client
Understanding gross profit
Salon Focus 16
Forging a ‘gift’ for clients Johannesburg salon expands during pandemic
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The power of peels
Chemical peeling systems
NailFile Issue 52
WELCOME NAIL FILE
Image by Claudio Scott from Pixabay
Just as this issue went to publication, the Professional Beauty team was preparing to host its first ever live event in Bloemfontein, on 20 June at the Tuscan Rose. This represents an exciting development for the company, as we have previously only run events in Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban. The motivation for hosting one of our Big Buzz Business Conference events in Bloemfontein was to expand our reach beyond the obvious ‘Big 3’ business hubs in South Africa and also because of a strong interest in some suppliers wanting to interact with beauty professionals in the Bloemfontein region via the table top exhibition that runs alongside the conference. We look forward to meeting up with you all on the day. For anyone wanting to run a successful business, one of the main concepts to grasp and understand is gross profit. To that end, we include in this issue of Professional Beauty, an informative article on this topic. We also have special features on chemical peeling, as well as on South African brands that have successfully navigated the complex export market. Additionally, we have included an article about a Johannesburg salon that managed not only to survive the pandemic, but actually expanded during this time. Quite an achievement!
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
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New bill has implications for SA-based foreign workers and their employers
The Draft National Labour Migration Policy (NLMP) & Employment Services Amendment Bill aims to, among other issues, address South Africans’ expectations regarding access to work opportunities. According to the Department of Labour, the above is in light of worsening unemployment in the country and the perception that foreign nationals are distorting labour market access. The NLMP, together with proposed legislation, will introduce quotas on the total number of documented foreign nationals with work visas that can be employed in major economic sectors such as Agriculture, Hospitality and Tourism, Construction etc. Furthermore, the NLMP will be complemented by Small Business intervention and enforcement of a list of sectors
Clean beauty market faces critical perception challenges Online brand community software company Vesta has found that 1 in 3 beauty consumers have started using clean beauty brands (i.e. skincare products made without harmful ingredients) in the last 12 months. Using an innovative Market Research Online Community (MROC), Vesta identified a general expectation that clean beauty products may be less effective or not last as long as traditional beauty products. “Proof that natural products work as well as traditional brands will win people over,” says Christoph Knudsen, VP of Insights at Vesta. “Clean beauty brands must convince skeptics of their products’ effectiveness and build trust to
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where foreign nationals cannot be allocated business visas and amendments to the Small Business Act to limit foreign nationals establishing SMMEs and trading in some sectors of the economy. The Department of Higher Education and Training’s list of scarce and critical skills in high demand will be used as a last resort to allow foreign nationals in possession of the listed skills that the economy requires, and where job offers have been made, to be allocated work visas. The government will also impose various obligations on both the employer and the foreign national to transfer skills to locals and permits will be limited to specific durations. These initiatives will be implemented within the context of the country’s regional integration and cooperation imperatives already agreed to at the Southern African Development Community (SADC) and African Union levels. The National Labour Migration Policy goes hand in hand with a proposed Employment Services Amendment Bill, which will provide a policy framework and the legal basis to regulate the extent to which employers can employ foreign nationals in their establishments, while protecting the rights of migrants. Proposed amendments to the Employment Services Act (of 2014) aim to limit the extent to which employers can employ the number of foreign nationals in possession of a valid work visa in their employment and codifies the obligations of an employer engaging foreign workers. (Source: https://www.labour.gov.za/minister-nxesi-on-the-releaseof-the-national-labour-migration-policy-for-public-comment)
break through a competitive landscape.” Vesta recommends that clean beauty brands foster education with ‘small asks’, where consumers describe their discovery of clean beauty. Half (50%) of those who participated in the Vesta study strongly agreed they look for fewer chemicals and more natural ingredients. As clean beauty is about simplicity, ‘use less but get more’ marketing is advised, while highlighting sustainable processes, quality ingredients and creating community connections and purpose. Vesta’s research was conducted via an online survey of the Smiley360 online community, completed by 1,230 US respondents between October 5 - November 29, 2021, and an MROC conducted October 18 - December 6, 2021, with 60 participants. (Source: Vesta)
World’s first net energy-positive destination to launch in Norway Set to open in 2024, Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas’ Svart property, situated at the foot of the Scartisen glacier in Norway, will be entirely off-grid and carbon neutral. In addition, Six Senses Svart will operate with local production and zero waste to landfill. To minimise the on-site impact, the building is poised on poles above the waters of the Holandsfjorden fjord, at the base of the glacier. The buidling has the ability to collect energy from the roof and offer panoramic views and privacy, with the expanded distance between rooms. As pioneering wellness is central to the Six Senses DNA, each guest room will become a wellness concierge through the Svart Touch concept. Non-invasive touchless technology will adapt the room to the guest’s state of mind and health, providing intuitive options to evoke a deeper sense of well-being. The concept of a ‘stay’ will be redefined from a passive or static experience to an immersive and purpose-driven journey. Guests are welcomed into breathtaking nature to
Six Senses Svart
enjoy unplugged exploration and signature standards such as Eat With Six Senses, Sleep With Six Senses and Grow With Six Senses. Experts will guide guests on the path to well-being, however far they want to go. From effective fixes from compression boots, to vitamin IVs in the biohacking lounge, to all-round fitness in the sensory treatment suites. Six Senses Svart will cover the full gambit of integrated wellness, with state-of-the-art equipment and wearable technology assimilation. Guests can lounge in the Experience Center, where materials will be light and raw, with local fabrics to tie ‘the space to the place’. The Alchemy Bar will highlight the rich history of regional healing techniques by turning local flora and fauna into pampering scents and scrubs. As a centre for engagement and innovation, the Earth Lab will serve as the sustainability outreach space, showcasing ‘lifecycle living’ initiatives on and off the property.
Professional Beauty hosts first ever event in Bloemfontein The Professional Beauty Big Buzz Business Conference series of events moves to Bloemfontein on 20 June, at the Tuscan Rose on Maluti Avenue. A jam-packed conference with leading speakers presenting on business topics will run alongside a table top exhibition populated by beauty, hair, nail and aesthetics brands. Says Professional Beauty commercial director, Phil Woods: “This will be the third Big Buzz Business Conference that Professional Beauty has hosted this year, with successful events already having taken place in Johannesburg and Cape Town. We decided to extend our reach to
Bloemfontein, to accommodate hair and beauty salon/ spa/ aesthetic clinic owners and managers and therapists and hair stylists in that region. Furthermore, some leading suppliers are seeking face-to-face interaction with hair and beauty professionals in Bloemfontein via our
table top exhibition.” Conference topics include: Creating business processes in your hair or beauty salon, aesthetic clinic or spa; Unstoppable social media & authentic influencer strategies; Client loyalty; The 7 habits of highly effective salon and spa operators; Building a sustainable business; Must have business skills you need to develop to ensure success. Tickets to the conference are R595 and can be booked on https://www. probeauty.co.za/bloemfonteinconference See the table top exhibition preview and conference programme on pages 22 and 23, as well as the Show Guide at the back of the magazine.
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Kryolan opens 20th store in SA
The Kryolan team – Roxanne Franco, Cuan Kemp and Shepherd Chitowamombe
Professional make-up brand Kryolan has opened a new store in Johannesburg’s Sandton City shopping mall, making this the brand’s 20th store in the country. At a launch held on 18 May, head of Kryolan Make-up, Marketing & Social Media, Cuan Kemp, told Professional Beauty that the reason for introducing Kryolan stores into the consumer market was to clear up the perception that Kryolan is for theatre and stage use only. Said Kemp: “While Kryolan was born in Berlin, Germany, in 1945 and certainly had its roots in theatrical make-up, it has evolved over the decades and now boasts several ranges – for use in theatre, stage, film, TV and consumer. Kryolan is a professional grade make-up and we aim to show more and more consumers that it is also perfect for them to use on a daily basis. For the South African market, the fact that we package the products here assists us in controlling costs, to the advantage of our customers, both professional and other-wise. “I think that one of our strengths is that we take pride in listening to our professional make-up artists and consumers and this feedback is then used in the brand’s R&D processes. Kryolan was one of the first cosmetics brands in the world and has always used its own formulas and recipes to manufacture products.”
New moves for Aesthetics on 5th Following six months of extensive renovations that represent a significant growth for this Johannesburg practice, Aesthetics on 5th has moved from Hyde Park to Parkwood. Says practice owner Dr Natasha Chapman: “We are so excited about the move and are sure that our clients will love our new look and feel. This new space, which is only six minutes from where we used to be, will allow us to offer more treatments and products, in a beautiful and serene setting.” New treatments include: Limelight for redness, broken blood vessels and sunspots; a new Nd:Yag laser for hair removal and treating larger blood vessels; G5 (a mechanical deep tissue massage for reduction of cellulite); and Laser Genesis – a non-invasive laser treatment that stimulates collagen production and leaves skin glowing without any downtime. The latter is offered as either a stand-alone
treatment or as an addition to any of the clinic’s treatment facials. Dr Chapman continues: “It was of utmost importance to us that we kept our patients in mind every step of the way when creating the new practice, ensuring that we translated the same warm, personal and private experience that our patients have become accustomed to at the old practice.” Simultaneous with the renovation of the physical premises has been the expansion of the Aesthetics on 5th team. Caitlin Chapman has joined as practice manager, with Robyn Stewart coming on board as senior therapist, and Dr Monica Jooste adding to the medical side of the practice. Says Dr Chapman: “All three ladies have been wonderful additions to our team, bringing with them new ideas and interests, and allowing us to improve on the services we offer to patients.”
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Study shows ¾ of older people unhappy with their representation by industry
Radiant Healthcare celebrates 18th birthday Leading medical and aesthetic technology device supplier, Radiant Healthcare, recently marked 18 years in the industry. Says founder and owner Jacques Pretorius: “All these years of achieving ‘visibly different’ results in the medical and aesthetic markets can only be credited to our staff and great team work, as well as embracing a true service orientated attitude. And of course, thanks to our valued long standing clients who have trusted and committed their business decisions to us.” Pretorius notes that the past 18 years have seen the company grow in all aspects – new brands, bigger offices, increased staff and expanding business opportunities. “The aesthetics market has certainly changed over the years – it has literally become bigger and bigger every year. This is despite the Covid-19 pandemic – the industry has boomed with more and more aesthetics clinics opening everywhere. It has certainly become a high demand field,” he comments. Recent exciting developments have seen Radiant Healthcare become the sole distributors of Endymed in South Africa and sub-Saharan Africa. “This is the first radiofrequency device on the market that provides ‘3deep technology’,” concludes Pretorius.
Seventy-four-percent of respondents in ‘The Age of Beauty’ research project, conducted by creative agency Cult and The Diversity Standards Collective, feel the beauty industry does not offer positive representations of their age. The report shows that when older people do feature, respondents felt ‘in between’ and unable to relate to the glamorous models depicted in marketing, branding and media. According to the research, older men are portrayed as ‘handsome’ and ‘positive’ by the industry and aren’t subjected to the same pressures to ‘defy’ ageing as women. Only 13% of respondents considered the term ‘anti-ageing’ to be a positive product descriptor, while just 22% responded with any positive sentiment when asked about how the beauty industry’s representation of their age group made them feel. Furthermore, 65% said the beauty industry doesn’t represent their age accurately. For 52% of respondents, skincare was the single beauty category they couldn’t live without, followed by 30% who nominated make-up. The research revealed that friends and family (39%) are the primary source of beauty inspiration for the age group, with social media and influencers (26%) the second-most influential. Said Alex Manning, the associate strategy director at Cult: “Our relationship with the beauty category has always been profoundly emotional, but in recent years its connection to our mental health and wellbeing is becoming much more openly discussed and understood. “We hope this research, revealing how older people want beauty and its practitioners to help them feel, can contribute to closing the gap that currently exists.” Brooke Fenton, a strategist at Cult, commented on how ‘the research reveals a clear and very urgent need for beauty brands to improve how they represent and cater for older people’. Fenton continued, “While the industry as a whole is of course not responsible for societal perceptions, it can decide whether negativity is amplified – or reinvented.” (Source: Professional Beauty UK).
Photo by Shvets Production from Pexels
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Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Image from Pixabay
How do I go about creating a suitable ambience in my business space? he Oxford Dictionary definition of ambience is: ‘the character and atmosphere of a place’. My definition of ambience for a salon, spa and aesthetic clinic is: ‘the memorable feeling that is spoken about’. Clearly the easiest way to create ambience is to use the senses. In terms of sight –are your colours blinding, funky and confusing, or do the colours imbue the feelings that you want your client to feel? If you are practicing aesthetics, you want to use colours that are clean, fresh, sterile and hygienic. But if you are focused on relaxation and rejuvenation, you will want to use colours and textures that are calming. The same is true for lighting. It is crucial that you get the lighting in each area of your space right to induce the appropriate feeling.
Is the sound that your clients hear stressing them out, or making them feel calm and serene? Instead of using whale music or running water sounds that have become really old fashioned, rather get creative and personalise the music for your clients. For example, if your client is having sleep issues, then play music that helps promote better sleep, or if your client is feeling anxious, play anti-anxiety music. There is a huge selection
of tracks out there to specifically tune into your client’s brain to make them feel a particular way.
Did you know that the sense of smell has the ability to create everlasting memories? People can forget what something looked like, but they seldom forget the smell of something that made an impact in their lives. This is by far the least explored ‘ambience enhancer’ in our industry. It is that smell that starts the client experience. Offer your clients their choice of aroma for their massages – a selection of oils that are pre-mixed or that you mix up in front of them. For example, uplifting jasmine or calming coconut. What about a therapy mist to enhance the room and treatment to fit the client’s specific needs? For instance, a boost mist to uplift, or a calm mist to induce serenity. What do you lockers smell like?
What textures does your client feel during their time in your space, from entry to exit? If you are wanting to create a luxurious, cosy ambience, you will use warm, fluffly textures, whereas if you want to create a clean and hygienic ambience, you will use smoother textures like satin or vinyl.
Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants and a co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild Email email@example.com
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Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels
How can I incorporate little add-ons to treatments to bump up my revenue in winter? During the cold winter months our skin and hair becomes aggravated and dry and needs extra nourishment and attention. This is the ideal time to include specific add-ons to existing treatments to enhance the overall client experience, making them feel special and cared for whilst simultaneously increasing salon sales. This can be done by offering treatment upgrades such as a hot stone massage in place of a regular body massage, or including specialised paraffin wax treatments to manicures and pedicures.
Traditional beauty treatments such as lash and brow tinting can be modified to include the application of eye care pads to nourish and hydrate the delicate skin around the eye area during this procedure. Consider including an Indian head massage with a deep-conditioning hair treatment to further promote healthy hair. Much like our needs for our skin and hair change during the colder winter months, so too must our product offering adapt to meet these needs. It is imperative to always remain up to date with the latest technologies and product offerings to ensure treatments are held to the same standards.
Pieter Vermeer and his wife Sue own and manage AMSco PTY LTD, the sole agents for RefectoCil in Africa. They took over the 60-year-old family business in 2014 and have grown it substantially since then in the beauty industry, retail and online space. Email info@ refectocil.co.za DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your questions about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to firstname.lastname@example.org
Money Talk Beauty professional Diana van Sittert unpacks the concept of gross profit and looks at the treatments that best line your pocket
f you are reading this magazine, you are passionate about the beauty industry. When deciding to study Beauty, it was most probably because you love making people feel good and have the option of starting your own business. Sadly, we don’t learn in college how to run a profitable business by focusing on profit margin. This is crucial when you need to ensure that you can pay your suppliers and employees. So, what is gross profit? Simply put, gross profit (GP) is the amount of money you clear after all deductions have been considered (i.e. pure profit). The following example will show you how a true gross profit percentage should be calculated. • You are doing a facial treatment at R500 • The facial is 1 hour (the rental and electricity cost has been worked out based on the treatment time) • You deduct all physical costs from the R500 (as shown in the table) What often happens is that we focus on a supplier’s gross profit calculations, and we do not keep in mind what our true costs are. The supplier’s 50% gross profit might sound great, but you need to bring your costs into the equation.
Photo by Nataliya Vaitkevich from Pexels
WHAT OFTEN HAPPENS is that WE FOCUS on a SUPPLIER’S GP CALCULATIONS, and we DO NOT keep in mind what our TRUE COSTS ARE. CHECKLIST
MINUS Consumables (sponges, spatulas, etc)
MINUS Treatment room cost per hour (rental)
MINUS Therapist commission on the treatment (10%)
TOTAL COST OF TREATMENT
TRUE GP% = (Income – Total cost) / Income
A healthy TREATMENT GP% should always be more than 20% if the business is set up and no set up costs need to be covered or included in calculations. A healthy RETAIL GP% should be more than 25%. How the picture changes by simply adding retail sales:
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Retail price of products sold (3 products)
MINUS Cost of retail products at 45%
MINUS Therapist commission on retail (10%)
TOTAL COST OF RETAIL
TRUE GP% = (Income – Total cost) / Income
TRUE TREATMENT PROFIT = R366,17 + TRUE RETAIL PROFIT = R420 TRUE TOTAL PROFIT = R786,17 (Look at the difference it makes when adding retail to the equation) TRUE GP% = 64%
It is imperative to remember that a healthy beauty business model is linked to the following: • Best possible GP% • Understanding that you can only do so many treatments. Once you are fully booked, your income cannot grow. In this instance I cannot stress the importance of retailing to every client to ensure a truly profitable business. Retail income potential cannot be capped, whereas the treatment income can. Retailing is imperative, so make sure that this is a priority in your business.
4. Henna / Tinting A staple income in any beauty business that brings in an average 90% GP. The reason why you should push this and upsell to your clients in all other treatments is the fact that it takes minimal time and with a low product cost. You also don’t necessarily need to book extra time as a tint can be done whilst the client has a treatment mask on. 5. Microneedling The start-up cost to get the tools are at a high-level expense but, after investing in the tools, it is almost pure profit moving forward. This should also be sold in a treatment package for best results, but also to ensure repeat business right off the bat. The average GP% (not considering the start-up cost) is 60%. 6. Microblading The start-up cost to get the tools are at a low-level, making it easy to incorporate into your business. The only ‘expensive’ part of introducing this on your treatment menu would be to train your staff. This treatment is semipermanent, so the repeat business will come in yearly from the same client. A touch up is also needed after 6-8 weeks, following the first appointment, which means repeat income. The average GP% (not considering the start-up cost) is 90%.
A healthy TREATMENT GP% should always be MORE THAN 20% if the BUSINESS IS SET UP and no set up costs NEED TO BE COVERED or included in calculations. Image by Firmbee from Pixabay
Excluding retail and business cost, which are the top 6 treatments to offer in your business for the highest GP%?
1. Lash extensions These treatments have an average GP% of 98% as the product costs are low. It is imperative, though, to get your therapists well trained so that they can perform this treatment in no longer than 1 hour and 15 minutes to make it truly powerful. The saying ‘time is money’ can dramatically influence this type of treatment. 2. Dermaplaning The start-up cost to get the tools are at a mid-level expense but, after investing in the tools, it is almost pure profit moving forward as you have very little consumable cost. The average GP% (not considering the start-up cost) is 80%. 3. Waxing A staple income in any beauty business that brings in an average 80% GP. The reason why you should push this and upsell to your clients in all other treatments, is the fact that it takes minimal time.
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• Stay on trend with your treatments BUT investigate the GP% properly. • Make sure that you have retail options that align with the treatments you do. Ask for GP calculation information from all suppliers and do your calculations to ensure that your business remains profitable.
Diana van Sittert, currently project and brand development manager for Lime Light (EMSA distribution), has been in the beauty industry for 22 years, starting as a somatologist. She has worked for top national and international brands like Placecol, Nimue, Salonquip, AHAVA, Dermalogica, pHformula, 365 Skin Workout and SkinPhD. She is well versed in beauty therapy, sales, area management, education, business development and product formulation project management.
It’s all about ATTENTION TO DETAIL and REALLY SEEING what THE CLIENT NEEDS and how I can PROVIDE THE EXACT service to MATCH THOSE NEEDS.
Forging a ‘gift’ for clients Owner of Johannesburg salon Gifted MO, Mpho Nyelele, tells Joanna Sterkowicz how customising treatments, consistency and managing client expectations have been key to longevity in a challenging market
he Gifted MO salon, founded in 2012 by somatologist Mpho Nyelele, enjoyed a revamp last year, when it relocated from the Hyde Park Office Towers to Dunkeld Court, an office park in the upmarket suburb of Dunkeld West. “I was looking to expand and frankly also needed to find a location with a more cost-friendly rental,” says Nyelele, whose first name Mpho means ‘gift’. Nyelele believes that through the quality treatment services she gives to clients, she is gifting them, hence the salon’s name. She continues: “I now have a reception area, manicure station, pedicure station and two treatment rooms. In addition, I have employed therapist and nail tech, Samantha Chido Benny, to help me in the salon. Apart from expansion, another reason I wanted to move here is because I’ve found that clients want exclusivity, privacy and somewhere easily accessible. They don’t want to have to walk through a shopping centre after having had a facial or microneedling.”
Standing out in the market
With 10 other beauty salons in a 2km square radius of Gifted MO, Nyelele believes that her policy of customising treatments has really paid off. “I’m not interested in getting as many people through the door as quickly possible and doing rapid treatments, rather my treatments may take up to an hour and a half each. It’s all about attention to detail and really seeing what the client needs and how I can provide the exact service to match those needs. “Many of my clients have complimented me on the consistency of my treatments. I also feel it’s very important to make clients understand that seeing real results on their skin will take time. There are no quick fixes in terms of skincare in my opinion. Some of my clients are in their 60s, 70s and 80s and you really can see their skin change for the better over a course of treatments. I do before & after pics of treatments for monitoring purposes only, not for social media.” Nyelele feels fortunate to have built up a large loyal base of clients, many of whom will spend a lot of money at one time in the salon. So, instead of coming in for a single treatment on the day of their appointment, they usually have two or three. She believes she has created a happy ambience and good energy at the salon. “Beauty is a calling for me as I love the people that I meet every day and I love learning from them in terms of the life experiences. The connections that you make in this industry are amazing. Some of my younger clients have become my friends. I love the different dynamics of my client base,” she says.
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SALON FOCUS Covid economy
Before the Covid-19 pandemic, Gifted MO used to be fully booked, and while business this year hasn’t been the same as pre-Covid, Nyelele reports that it has been going well and is definitely sustainable. “I’m proud of the fact that I managed to expand during Covid. Many of my clients are emigrating but I’m their first port of call when they visit the country,” she states. “They seem to travel back to South Africa a lot, like every second month. If I don’t see clients for a while, I will follow up with them and most will come back. But even those who stopped coming to me because of Covid haven’t gone anywhere else. Because of Covid, I invested in a UV sanitiser unit for the salon.” Nyelele is working to expand her marketing so as to acquire a more diverse clientele, both men and women. “Interestingly, most of my black clients are from outside of South Africa’s borders, so I would like to increase my domestic black clientele. I would say about 25% of my clients are male – they come in for facials, waxing and pedicures. In fact, my most consistent client over the last four
I feel it’s VERY IMPORTANT to MAKE CLIENTS UNDERSTAND that seeing REAL RESULTS on their skin WILL TAKE TIME.
Samantha Chido Benny performs a nail treatment on Mpho Nyelele
years is a male – he is based in Cape Town but comes up to Johannesburg once a month and always books in for treatments during his visits.” To increase her business and financial skills, Nyelele is consulting with a business coach, a business development manager, and an accountant.
As Nyelele was keen to create an elegant look for the salon that would appeal to both men and women, she aimed for a unisex vibe. “I worked with an architectural interior designer who is super-talented and she created what I think is a great and flowing space in terms of how the different areas are laid out and allocated,” she comments. “We purposely avoided any pinks and blues and opted for a grey and charcoal colour palette instead. “Because I’m big on sustainable beauty, I have incorporated greenery on the walls of the reception area, as well as in my logo. In line with my commitment to the environment, I don’t use much plastic, only about 5%, and I try to minimise the use of products or materials that are harmful to the planet.
Nyelele notes that she has worked with Italian skincare brand and part of the Davines Group World, Comfort Zone, for 14 years. She continues: “In 2010, I won Comfort Zone’s Best Therapist Award within the Carlton Hair Group. I sold over R100,000 worth of retail and won an all-expenses trip to Florence to meet the Comfort Zone CEO. This brand is all about sustainable beauty and recyclable packaging. I subsequently also took on their sister brand, Skin Regimen.” Other brands at Gifted MO include AQ Skin Solutions, pHformula, DP Ceuticals (Dermapen), Bio Therapeutic, CND, Crisnail, Elim and Bellucy. “Over the years I’ve come to realise how important it is not only to gain knowledge through training, research and experience, but also to share it. This is something that I am planning to do in the future. For instance, I have recently become interested in all the health aspects pertaining to vaginal rejuvenation and am hoping to start an educational YouTube channel on this topic, which up to now has been considered a bit of a taboo subject,” concludes Nyelele.
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Babette Gallard and Helene Bramwell
Our planet NEEDS You! Babette Gallard discusses the worldwide problem of plastic waste and explains how CIDESCO Honorary President and Gold Medalist, Helene Bramwell, has been addressing the issue*
lastic is made from oil, a fossil fuel, and it doesn’t disappear when we’ve finished with it. The fact is that plastic is everywhere – poisoning our lakes, rivers and seas, the air we breathe and the food we eat. But, plastics are also critical to our modern lifestyles. Replacing natural materials with plastic has made many of our possessions cheaper, lighter, safer and stronger. Computers, cell phones and most of the lifesaving advances of modern medicine are all made of plastic. Can you even imagine life without it? We need plastic, but we need our planet and the biosystems that support it even more, so there has to be a solution. But what can we, as individuals, do? Well, we can take responsibility for how we use and dispose of plastic. For instance, we can use our consumer power to force manufacturers to use less plastic and ensure it is disposed of responsibly.
The beauty, spa and wellness sector uses huge amounts of plastic, but we can also control how it is used and disposed of. A pioneering icon of the South African beauty industry, Helene Bramwell, who is also the founder of SAAHSP (South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals) and a past president of the organisation, is a prime example of someone doing precisely that. She opened The Mask Skin & Body Clinic in Johannesburg in 1971 and has been monitoring and trying to address the use of plastics in her own business and beyond since then. Says Bramwell: “As a skin therapist for more than 50 years and committed to the treatment of our clients, it has often occurred to me that we can, should and do play a major
Photo by Magda Ehlers from Pexels
THE BEAUTY, spa and WELLNESS SECTOR USES HUGE AMOUNTS OF PLASTIC, but we can also CONTROL HOW it is used AND DISPOSED OF. role in influencing our clientele about how they should care for the environment. Most consumers don’t pay much attention to the packaging their purchases come in, but packaging accounts for about 28% of municipal solid waste. In fact, only 53% of it ends up in recycling bins and even less is actually recycled, meaning we, the practitioners, must be proactive and creative. “We must think about how we can re-purpose the plastic containers we use. Furthermore, we must encourage our clients to return their own plastic containers, and we must
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insist the suppliers collect empty containers for either refilling, re-purposing or responsible disposal. “This also applies to the products we use to clean our salons. Again, the containers can be re-used, re-purposed or recycled. For many years now, I have been sending my reusable plastic containers to nursery schools that use them to produce plastic bricks, and for the waste pickers who collect the remainder, it is a source of income. As for plastic bags, I won’t even allow them in my salon. “In my opinion, companies that create consumer packaging should be responsible for the recycling and disposal of those products, and I have to say that our suppliers are now using more recyclable plastics such as PET, HDPE, LDPE and PP. Tackling the plastics problem is a shared responsibility. We have to inform, encourage and empower our employees, partners and clients to practice good, green habits both at work and in their personal lives.”
Fortunately, some of Helene Bramwell’s hopes for the future have come true. The Extended Producer Responsibility legislation passed in South Africa at the end of last year has shifted the liability for plastic production and its use to the manufacturers and importers. Nevertheless, the transition is not easy and is certainly not complete. Plastic is still being produced in vast amounts, and the process clogs our atmosphere with carbon. Our planet needs people like you who can make changes in your salons and persuade your clients to follow your example. Photo by Styjn Djikstra from Pexels
PLASTIC WASTE KILLS THOUSANDS of fish, birds, and animals daily. The PLASTIC PANDEMIC has to stop.
Plastic in numbers
1 million plastic bottles are produced every minute. 5 trillion single-use plastic bags and packages are used worldwide every year. 368 million tons of plastic are produced every year. Three-quarters of non-degradable plastic trash is either in landfills or the natural environment. The remainder will be incinerated with all the carbon this adds to our already overloaded atmosphere. Microplastics are in the air we breathe, our water and food, with possible health consequences like hyperactivity, thyroid disorders, breast cancer, prostate cancer, low sperm count, asthma and early puberty. Plastics can take anywhere from 20 to 500 years to decompose. Helene Bramwell and I are banging the environmental drum together and making as much noise as possible about a new recycling centre in Johannesburg’s Zoo Lake inner city park. If people don’t understand why they should bring their plastic here, they soon will.
Zoo Lake recycling project
Last year, the [dot]GOOD agency created a recycling system for Zoo Lake that was sponsored by its client, Polyco, under an initiative called the Million Plus. This 6-month project included: building a depot where recyclables are brought to for sorting; employing a waste sorter to sort the waste; selling the recyclable waste to a buy-back centre; installing recycling bins (2 sets of 5 bins); and installing tables and benches made from recycled plastic. Proceeds generated through this project go to the Zoo Lake User Committee for further upkeep and upgrades to the park Says Shilpa Rama-Madhav, [dot]GOOD senior account manager: “We are currently working on installing a road-access drop & go recycling bin that will enable residents and businesses in the area to drop off their recyclables. The aim of the collection and sorting of recyclable waste found in and around the park is to create funds for the employment of the waste sorter, funds for the upkeep and upgrades to the park, as well as to divert waste from landfill and into recycling.” *This article was commissioned by CIDESCO and appears in issue 93 of the CIDESCO LINK digital magazine. https://cidesco.com/ cidesco-link-magazine/
Babette Gallard has worked for an oil services company, though her last job was managing the construction of a 44-bed maternity hospital in Arusha, Tanzania. It proved a life-changing experience for Gallard. In Tanzania, the main electricity supply is unreliable, fossil fuel-based and generally supplemented by polluting and inefficient diesel generators. When looking at the architect’s plans, she had an environmental epiphany and persuaded the financiers to install a stand-alone solarpowered system instead. Gallard is pleased to say that the hospital is still fully operational, and that she is still a confirmed tree-hugger. Her eco-crusade continues in South Africa.
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The BIG Buzz Business Conference
Monday 20th June, Tuscan Rose, Bloemfontein
It’s time for the beauty and hair industry in Bloemfontein to gather, network, hear excellent speakers presenting on relevant topics, and be exposed to the latest products from leading suppliers. This must attend conference is packed full of information that can help you to grow your business, whether a beauty salon, hair salon or spa. Don’t miss out on this great opportunity! Conference Programme 09.30 – 10.00 Creating business processes in your Salon, Aesthetic Clinic or Spa With accurate and timeous monthly management accounts, it is possible to make informed decisions about your business needs. 10.00 – 10.30 Technology – fashion or fad? – Kym Stafford Consumer demands have dramatically changed and salons, spas and aesthetic clinics need to meet these demands to be sustainable and profitable. Choosing the right technology that both suits your set up and target market is critical. 10.30 – 11.00 – Coffee Break 11.00 – 11.30 Business basics: 5 essential business building concepts – Stav Dimitriadis Is sending a birthday message enough to ensure client loyalty? Maybe there is more you can do?
11.30 – 12.15 Building a business: A hairdresser’s perspective – Terence Jansen van Vuuren Must have business skills you need to develop to ensure success. Get the inside knowledge on how to run a successful business; what to focus on and how to achieve your goals. 12.15 – 13.30 Lunch 13.30 – 14.15 15.00 The 7 habits of highly effective salon and spa operators – Marisa Dimitriadis Based on the book by Steven Covey, Marisa adapts the principles of the 7 habits to reflect our industry. These habits could help you get the most out of your personal growth and that of your business. 14.15 – 15.00 Unstoppable Social Media & Authentic Influencer Strategies – Guinevere Thomas
Guarantee engagement and ROI with cut-through content and high-impact collaboration. 15.00 – 15.30 Is the current educational syllabus working for salons and spas? Panel discussion What are salons and spas looking for from the educational sector? Is the vacuum treatment still relevant for students to learn in 2022 or is it like many other treatments, an outdated modality that should be consigned to a museum? Tickets to the conference are R595 per delegate and this includes lunch and refreshments. To book your place go to https://www.probeauty.co.za/ online-store/Big-Buzz-BusinessConference-20-June2022-p358570763 *Please note: the programme may change due to circumstances beyond our control
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Photo by Alexander Suhorucov from Pexels
Calling all beauty and hair professionals in the Bloemfontein region
the latest technology in regenerative medicine and are unlike anything else that’s been introduced to the professional skincare market, giving the ideal opportunity to the skin care professional in achieving the best possible results. RefectoCil www.refectocil.co.za Create a unique Lash and Brow style, through 8 RefectoCil tint colours and blonde brow paste, with our new care products range and tools. Show offer on Lash & Brow Booster R700 cash. Lucky draw product value R1200. The Spa Consultants www.thespaconsultants.co.za The Spa Consultants will be SHOWCASING the very first RF Needling Machine in SA!!! Come and experience a treatment for FREE valued at R2000 and see for yourself the results of this latest technology using 81 gold plated pins to needle the skin whilst delivering Radio Frequency energy into the deeper layers of the skin for an instant tightening and lifting effect. So now you have combination of collagen boosting and non surgical skin tightening. If you want to pre book your treatment as we have limited spaces please contact Micaela on 011 312 7840.
Some of the industry’s top suppliers will be displaying their wares at the table top exhibition that forms part of Professional Beauty’s Big Buzz Business Conference in Bloemfontein on 20 June at the Tuscan Rose. Here is a sneak preview of just some of them Esse Skincare www.esseskincare.com Miccrobiome skincare is a science. Your skin is an ecosystem protected by a living armour of beneficial bacteria. Esse exists to keep it at its wild best. Esse’s organic biotechnology rewilds your microbiome to keep skin healthier and younger. This sustainable approach to skincare creates the environment for your natural microbial diversity to return, counteracting the adverse effects of our modern lifestyles. pHformula www.phformula.com Developed as a dermatological skin resurfacing system, pHformula successfully treats skin disorders like ageing, hyperpigmentation, acne, and chronic redness. With continuous scientific based research, the focus always remains on the development of innovative skin resurfacing treatments. All new treatment developments are based on
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Entrance to the table top exhibition is free for registered visitors, but if you would also like to attend the Big Buzz Business Conference on the same day and at the same venue, please book your ticket for R595 per delegate here https://www.probeauty.co.za/online-store/Big-BuzzBusiness-Conference-20-June-2022-p358570763
Once a year Professional Beauty puts the spotlight on South African brands and this time we focus on those that have successfully navigated the export market
Now in its 20th year, Esse currently exports to 41 markets worldwide. It is the 3rd largest professional skincare brand in Sweden, the fastest growing professional brand in the Netherlands, and the recipient of 24 awards in six countries. Certified organic (ECOCERT), vegan, cruelty-free (PETA), carbon neutral and plastic neutral, Esse achieved a world first in 2015, when it launched the first ever live probiotic serum. The brand boasts 44 professional exclusive products, with products packaged in materials that are as close to indefinitely recyclable as possible. Esse founder, South African ‘green chemist’, Trevor Steyn, first started his research into the skincare industry in the late 1990s and was shocked by the profit-driven model that made bold promises with little basis in research. Drawing on extensive, nature-based research and establishing a business model of sustainable wellness over profit, Steyn began to develop the Esse brand. Says Steyn: “Esse sees skin as an ecology of microbes and our Probiotic Serum, which contains 1 billion live probiotics per ml, was a first of its kind back in 2015. This launch gave us international credibility in both academic circles and among our competitors in the nascent
microbiome space. Confidence in the quality of our research has been invaluable. “The modern trend of rewilding is effectively what Esse has been promoting all this time. Rather than stripping the skin’s natural oils, breaking down barrier function with alcohol and replacing these lost oils with petrochemicals, Esse seeks to minimise disruption and build barrier function – to effectively bring nature back to the skin and balance the microbiome.”
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Proudly South African professional nail brand, Bio Sculpture, began its export journey in 1987, mainly into Australia and the UK. Today, the company is proud to say that it exports to 40 countries worldwide, including Canada, Israel, France, Namibia, Hong Kong, Ghana and the USA, to name a few Says Bio Sculpture founder, Elmien Scholtz: “Bio Sculpture started as a dream which turned into reality, and we are humbled to have reached salons all across the globe with our products. It is because of every single nail technician using our brand that we get the opportunity to continue to share our love and passion for the nail industry on a daily basis. “Our factory is based in Clocolan, in the Free State. We pride ourselves on our professionalism and have awardwinning nail technicians worldwide. Our purpose is to provide quality products and professional training, empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashionable nail care systems, guided by an ethical business approach.”
African Ubuntu oils and extracts. Our suppliers source oils from over 30 farmers throughout Africa and the surrounding islands. “Matsimela makes use of materials and packaging that are kind to humans and the planet. This strategy complements our focus on plant-derived cosmetic ingredients which support sustainable products, fair trade and the global trend towards organic and safe products.” Products are not tested on animals and are paraben free. Matsimela’s recycling initiative is key and the brand encourages its customers to reuse or recycle all packaging. “We take pride in the fact that our manufacturing facility based in Kya Sands is internationally audited and accredited with theISO:2015 Quality management system and in line with GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices). Not a single one of our products is outsourced,” state the Nels.
The first ever export market for Six Skincare was Angola, back in 2010. Since then the brand has been exporting to Mauritius, Swaziland, Namibia, Botswana and Zambia. According to founder Marisa Dimitriadis, Six Skincare is revolutionising investment skincare on a whole new level. She says: “This advanced range is about transforming your skin and ensuring your skincare regime gets the optimal results to reach your ultimate outcome. “We offer a range of corrective Six Aesthetix treatments that will suit your needs, depending on your desired preferences. Our brand understands your determination in maintaining and improving beautiful skin and is committed to providing you with the solutions to do so. Products range from affordable yet effective homecare to professional, personalised treatment plans.”
An authentic South African brand which started out as a home-grown business in 2005 founded by husband-andwife team, Wayne and Olivia Nel, Matsimela Home Spa currently exports to several SADC (Southern African Development Community) countries. These include Namibia, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Rwanda. The brand is presently in talks with distributers in Netherlands, UK and USA, as well as Australia. Matsimela’s philosophy is to create a unique and ever-evolving product range that incorporates the finest natural ingredients selected for their beneficial properties. Say the Nels: “We endeavour to source and obtain our raw materials through Southern African based companies that in turn support local farms that produce our beautiful
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A sister brand to Six Skincare, Spalicious is exported to Angola, Mauritius, Swaziland, Namibia, Botswana and Zambia. The Spalicious manicure and pedicure ranges offer two choices: one for uplifting and energising, and the other for calming and relaxing. The client is given the product to smell and they decide what they want based on their
body needs through the sense of smell. Spalicious also offers different types of products for body care, like the cellulite management collection, muscle relaxing and healing products, intimate area brightening products and more.
RégimA has been exporting for a number of years, particularly to the UK and throughout Europe. Says founder Jacqui Faucitt: “Demands have grown, despite the challenges experienced during the pandemic. Our European distributors are expanding slowly but surely with product sales on the increase and other EU countries being coaxed on board as the brand name and reputation gains momentum and importantly, stability. The fact that most RégimA products have a number of functions is an excellent selling point. Obviously, the weaker South African Rand is always going to tempt potential overseas clients, but the products must perform as expected if one aims for sustainability.” RégimA also exports into Africa, to Namibia, Nigeria, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. According to Faucitt, sales in the USA slowed down dramatically during the two years of the pandemic, although Canada was still well maintained with gradual growth. “Now there has been new life injected into the USA with areas in California starting to flourish once more. RégimA has had a small presence in Australia and New Zealand for some time, but more recently exciting new distributors have taken on the challenge and are progressing very nicely.” RégimA, combines South Africa’s natural resources and medicinal plants with the scientific expertise to formulate and treat every known skin condition, taking the harshness of the climate into consideration. Faucitt notes that a big selling point is the brand’s sunscreens. She continues: “We are not only interested in protecting ourselves, but we must consider protecting our planet as well. Our sunscreen formulations do not harm marine life.”
Marshalls Traditional Healthcare is a pharmaceutical company based in Wychwood, Johannesburg and owns and manufactures healthcare products (mainly African Traditional medicines) that have been around since the 1950s. Products are multigenerational and have been used by people all across the world. The company currently holds multiple international certifications, including ISO 9001 2015 (issued by SABS), cGMP (SAHPRA inspected and approved), FDA Licensed (Registered with the United States Food and Drug Administration). It is also licensed by SAPC and NDOH and has a beauty range called Lays Beauty, with the signature product being lays Tissue oil spray. Marshalls’ Balanse NYC range of beauty products was created as a result of a 2019 trade show to New York City, where the company was invited to participate by the Department of Trade and Industry. Balanse NYC has exported more than 60,000 units in 2022 to date, with the expectation of increasing output further. The products are available at various independent retailers in the USA, at both physical and online locations, including online at Walmart. Balanse NYC believes in clean and natural ingredients to give its users the best experience possible and the products are multipurpose. The range includes the flagship Balanse NYC Body Oil Spray, as well as Balanse NYC Panol Spray and Balanse NYC Hair Treatment Spray.
Chrissanthie was founded in 2011 in Johannesburg, after Dr Chrissie Cockinos (‘Dr Chrissie’), an ophthalmologist at Sandhurst Eye Centre, and her co-founder Christine Deist, a pharmacist at the same clinic, decided to formulate an eyelid cleanser to help the thousands of patients coming through the clinic with red, sore and scratchy eyes. Simultaneously, Dr Chrissie started to see patients with artificial eyelashes and noticed microscopic debris accumulating on the lashes, so she gave a talk at an international lash artists’ conference in Johannesburg to help educate the lash industry on blepharitis in lash wearers. More than 68% of lash wearers have blepharitis, and 60% of all adults have blepharitis. Chrissanthie’s way of cleaning eyes daily is using eye cleanse TM by Dr Chrissie. She subsequently moved to Texas, USA and is growing the brand in America. The products are manufactured in South Africa and the USA and are vegan, non-toxic and cruelty-free.
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Kaia Gerber (Instagram @kaiagerber)
Maude Apatow (Instagram @maudeapatow)
Hot hairdos at the
Sophie Turner (Instagram @gregoryrussellhair)
Cynthia Erivo (Instagram @cynthiaerivo)
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Chloe Kim (Instagram @chloekim)
Alicia Keys (Instagram @aliciakeys)
The global fashion world congregated on 2 May at the Met Gala, held at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art on 2 May and themed ‘Gilded Glamour’. One of the more noticeable hairdos, certainly in terms of sheer volume and scale, was supermodel Kaia Gerber’s huge mass of long, pre-Raphaelite curls. Gerber’s tresses, styled by Guido Palau, skimmed her waist and were festooned, on each side of a severe centre parting, by a big, sparkly barette. Also issuing forth serious preRaphaelite vibes, albeit less voluminous and in a deep mahogany shade, was ‘Game of Thrones’ star, Sophie Turner. Hair was by Gregory Russell, who also designed an unusual, low ponytail for actress Chloe Grace Moretz. Said ponytail was constrained by two twisted braids running down each side of the back of her head, while the front was gelled and slightly teased. Arguably the most intriguing style was singer Alicia Key’s extraordinary braided ponytail, which had large crystal discs spiraling all the way down it. The look was designed by Fesa Nu. In line with the ‘Gilded Glamour’ theme, internet personality Emma Chamberlain wore a diamond tiara on her platinum blonde, blunt cut bob. Olympic gold medalist snowboarder, Chloe Kim, opted for a glamorous blonde updo, complemented by an ultra-long parted fringe. Going the half-updo look was ‘Squid Game’ star, Jung Ho-yeon, whose hip-length black waves cascaded down her back. British actress, singer and the star of ‘Wicked’, Cynthia Erivo, made a statement by wearing a towering white head wrap. Fellow brit actress, Lucy Boynton of ‘Rocketman’ fame, impressed with a fulsome, chin length blonde bob, with the edges flipped under. Maude Apatow channeled serious 1930s Hollywood vibes with dark, shoulder-length vintage barrel curls courtesy of Peter Lux. Also going retro was Jodie Turner-Smith, whose short hair was coaxed into finger waves. A more contemporary look was seen on Gemma Chan, with her long, non-too-tidy gentle waves. This casual style contrasted with her gown, which was one of the most avant-garde of the night, with its Marie Antoinette-type embellished hips. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)
The client, the skin and the peel Sonette Donker of the Skin iD clinic in Sandton provides details on how to do an in-depth consultation for, and evaluation of, clients wanting to undergo chemical peels hen is comes to chemical peeling, it is all about ‘control’ as you want to know how deep the peel will penetrate based on the pH and % of the acids. If the skin is compromised in any way, you lose control as the peel will penetrate deeper than intended, which will lead to complications, i.e. post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or even scarring. The oil production, level of hydration and thickness of the skin will determine the depth
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Photo by Alex Green from Pexels
of penetration. These factors are vital to consider when doing chemical peels to avoid complications and to get the best results. If you fail to prepare the skin correctly based on these three factors, you will compromise the client’s skin and the peeling results. The preparing of the skin, as well as the aftercare, must be very clearly explained to the client; if you don’t get his/ her buy-in, you can’t do the peel as the ultimate success rests on this. Some clinics get their clients to sign a consent document and a document detailing the procedure and aftercare.
THE OIL PRODUCTION, level of HYDRATION AND THICKNESS of the skin WILL DETERMINE the DEPTH OF PENETRATION. These factors are VITAL TO CONSIDER when doing CHEMICAL PEELS to AVOID COMPLICATIONS and to get the best results. 29
Step 1: Consultation
A thorough consultation must be done prior to a course of chemical peels. The following needs to be discussed in the consultation. 1. Client’s skin concerns and her/ his expectations from the peel. 2. How many peels it will take to achieve the results. 3. Whether you are able to address the skin concerns and, if so, what realistic results can be expected. 4. The preparation required to achieve the results and get the skin ready for the peels. 5. How to care for the skin afterwards. 6. The total cost of peels and products. 7. You can also take photos of the skin prior to the peel. Take the ‘after’ photos 4 weeks post the client’s last peel. The following needs to be determined in the consultation. • Hydrations levels • Sensitivity levels • Thickness of the skin • General health of the individual • Oiliness of the skin
IF THE SKIN SHOWS any signs OF SENSITIVITY, you CANNOT DO A PEEL ON THAT SKIN until that has been fixed. Hydrations levels
If the skin is dehydrated, then the peel will penetrate the skin quicker, causing irritation, possible stinging and burning. The following can cause the skin to become dehydrated: caffeinated drinks; alcohol; medication; harsh products used on the skin containing alcohol or drying detergents; illness; central heating and cooling; fireplace in homes; flying; and living in a city with very little natural moisture in the air (i.e. Johannesburg). Should the skin show any signs of dehydration, products must be given to the client to repair the dehydration and must be used for at least 4 weeks before you can even consider doing a peel on her/ him.
If the skin shows any signs of sensitivity, you cannot do a peel on that skin until that has been fixed. It’s a sign that the skin is sensitive if the client suffers with redness during the day, or experiences heat on the skin, or the skin stings and burns when he/ she applies any products to the skin.
Photo by Tapanata Ahha from Pexels
Should the client be prone to allergic reactions and suffer with sinus, hay fever or any other respiratory conditions, you need to be careful as that skin will be more sensitive. To fix the sensitivity, you need to give the client products containing vitamins, bioflavonoids, anti-inflammatories and hydrating ingredients. The client needs to use these products for 4-6 weeks before you can consider doing a chemical peel on him/ her.
Thickness of the skin
Chemical peel manufacturers determine the outcome and results based on the thickness of a healthy skin. If the skin is thinner than expected, then the peel will penetrate deeper than intended, which may lead to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Medication such as cortisone (which is prescribed fairly often) will make the skin thinner. You need to wait at least 3 months after the client stops cortisone before you can do a peel on him/ her.
General health of the client
If the client leads an unhealthy lifestyle, you won’t get the best results and the client might be contraindicated to having peels. Should a client smoke, it will take them twice as long to heal compared to a non-smoker, which means the ‘downtime’ after a peel will be longer for a smoker. An unhealthy diet can lead to inflammation in the skin, compromising the healing of the skin, which can also prevent the client from getting the best results. Medication can cause dehydration, leading to sensitivity and might even thin the skin. This means the peeling acids will penetrate very quickly and deeper than intended, leading to complications.
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Some medical conditions may cause the skin to be sensitive and easily irritated with impaired healing. Asthma is a perfect example and, when coupled with cortisone, you have a skin that can’t have a chemical peel.
Oiliness of the skin
If the skin is very oily, you need to prepare the skin prior to the peel by removing the excess oil with a pre-peel prepping product. Oil offers a lot of resistance, which will prevent your peeling acids from penetrating to optimum level.
If the skin is VISIBLY PEELING POST TREATMENT, the client must NOT PULL THE SKIN OFF, as this can TEAR INTO the healthy skin, CAUSING SCARRING or reveal the new ‘BABY’ SKIN TOO SOON, which may cause hyperpigmentation. Preparing the skin
The skin needs to be prepared with active homecare (from the same brand as the chemical peel) for 4 to 6 weeks prior to the peels. This will ensure the best results are achieved and that there will be no complications to the peel.
Post peel, only hydrating and healing products must be used for 3 to10 days, depending on the manufacturer’s guidelines. The regimen will include a hydrating, gentle cleanser with a post peeling cream or balm, preferably containing sunscreen. It is vital for the client to apply sun protection post peel; a minimum SPF50 is necessary to prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. If the skin is visibly peeling, the client must not pull the skin off, as this can tear into the healthy skin, causing scarring, or reveal the new ‘baby’ skin too soon, which may cause hyperpigmentation. The client must be very gentle with her/ his skin post peel, no rubbing with a towel or face cloth, gentle Photo by Gustavo Fring from Pexels ‘patting’ only. You can do a package deal that includes the products the client needs to use at home and the course of peels. • Pregnancy and breastfeeding – you need It is vital for the professional to check up on the client after to check with your manufacturer as to his/ her peeling treatment each time to make sure the which peels are safe to use on a pregnant client’s skin is okay after the treatment. client or a breastfeeding client. You can also double check with your client’s gynaecologist. The results from the chemical peeling course can be • Immune disorders – these may impair or maintained with active homecare products and with slow down the healing of the skin. Best to having a very superficial peel or superficial peel every 6 check with the client’s doctor. weeks. • Roaccutane – you need to check the dose and how it affects the client’s skin. In some cases you need to wait 6 months after the client stops roaccutane. If you are not sure, check with the client’s doctor. Sonette Donker is a qualified professional • Fever blisters – you can spread these so skincare therapist who has worked in the wait until they are completely healed. professional skincare industry for 20 years, for • Fitzpatrick Photo-Types 4 to 6 – these darker companies such as Dermalogica, Nimue Skin skins can most definitely not have medium International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies depth and deep peels, only very and pHformula. She has travelled the world superficial and superficial peels. Deeper presenting at congresses, press events and peels can cause either hypo- or medical conferences and is regarded as an hyperpigmentation. expert in her field. Email email@example.com
Contraindications to chemical peels
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The power of peels
The winter months are the ideal time to offer chemical peeling treatments to clients to revitalise their skin and address numerous concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores and acne, among others. Here are some leading treatments on the market Photo by Shiny Diamond from Pexels
From the sea
The Thalgo Peeling Marine is positioned as the first natural marine peel. Thalgo has incorporated its renowned marine DNA to create a unique, natural form of the traditional, often times invasive, skin peeling treatment.
Peeling Marine is formulated with acids from the new generation of micronised marine algae and obtained through a 100% natural fermenting process. It’s highly concentrated in lactic acid and enriched with glycolic acid. Three grades of in-salon peeling treatment options are available. Grade 1 is for clients wanting a smooth and plumped skin and brightened complexion. For those clients suffering from increasingly visible wrinkles, uneven texture and a dull complexion, the Grade 2 peel is recommended. This is a two-week cure, comprising of two 30-minute sessions with a medium dose of product. The Grade 3 intensive treatment course is suggested for more mature skin with deeper concerns. This skin type suffers from deep and pronounced wrinkles. The complexion is not at all even and the skin is rapidly losing its firmness. The Grade 3 treatment has a stronger dose and comprises of three sessions of 30-minutes and a 3-week cure period. Thalgo’s home-care post peel treatments include Micro-Peeling Water Essence, Intensive Resurfacing Night Serum, Soothing Repair Balm and SPF 50+ Sunscreen.
For clients with advanced skin problems wanting medium depth chemical peels, the Six Aesthetix Retinoic Acid 35% & 20% TCA 20% can achieve results similar to the more aggressive and invasive peels on the market, but in a more controlled, comfortable and well tolerated manner. Retinoic acid is a metabolite of vitamin A1 that mediates the functions of vitamin A1 required for growth. It helps in the normalisation of hyperkeratinisation (i.e. peels off skin cells uniformly). This is a deeper peel than the Beta Hydroxyl Acid peel and is used to remove scars and wrinkles and can address pigmentation problems. It activates and stimulates the epidermal lipid synthesis, as well as the components of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, while decreasing the atypical cells. The Six Aesthetix Retinoic Acid Peel is used to treat premature ageing and sunspots, balance the skin’s moisture, and for acne/ acne scars and hyperpigmentation.
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TheraVine™ takes the art of skin resurfacing to the next level with its 4-tier Professional Peeling System, based on a step-up technique consisting of four various strength peels using lactic acid and glycolic acid. An in-depth skin consultation is performed as different treatment and course options can be customised at various strengths and intensities, depending on the desired outcome and the skin’s sensitivity tolerance. Both lactic acid and glycolic acid are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and work by dissolving the ‘glue’ that holds the cells together. These superficial, damaged layers of skin slough off to unveil newer and healthier skin. AHAs are also known for their humectant properties. The addition of tartaric acid to phase 1 and 2 of the TheraVine peeling system provides the anti-oxidant properties of this grape derived acid, while treating the client’s skin concerns as it forms an AHA-hybrid acid synergy with the Photo by Ivan Samkov from Pexels
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lactic acid. The addition of charcoal to phases 3 & 4 allows for these two phases to specifically and additionally cater particularly well to the needs of a skin exposed to high amounts of pollution, as well as oily and/ or comedone prone skin. Charcoal assists to stimulate microcirculation, helps draw out impurities and pollution’s heavy metals, which detoxifies the skin. TheraVine believes this is a first in the world of peels. This system is indicated to: reduce fine lines under the eyes and around the mouth; treat wrinkles caused by sun damage and ageing; improve the appearance of mild scars; treat certain types of acne; reduce age spots, freckles, and dark patches (melasma) due to pregnancy or taking birth control pills; and improve the skin’s general condition (e.g. improve skin colour and texture). As the system works on the superficial layers of the skin, these treatments are non-ablative and can be performed with the necessary predictability one wants when working with treatments of this nature. The unique step-up system ensures skin adaptation.
The Skinlogic Multipeel is pH 2.5 and formulated as a multi-purpose, time dependent superficial peeling agent. It provides a safe, controlled and predictable procedure that gradually removes surface skin cells, resulting in an improvement of skin texture. This peel utilises both Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids with other active ingredients to treat the skin. As a result, skin looks fresher with less visible damage such as fine lines and dark spots. Multipeel is ideal for acne, rejuvenation, dehydration and pigmentation. It does not contain parabens, sulphates, synthetic fragrance, synthetic colourants, lanolin derivatives, mineral oil or MITs.
RégimA Medic Peel de Monaco 86%, (with 86% free acid value) achieves amazing results on hyperpigmentation, active acne, acne scarring and rejuvenation in the hands of medical practitioners and highly trained RégimA therapists. Biobased natural L-Lactic acid (an Alpha Hydroxy Acid), produced by fermentation from carbohydrates, stimulates exfoliation and cell renewal, as well as provides moisturisation. It has anti-ageing benefits and helps to achieve smoother, younger and brighter looking skin. Compared to other AHAs, L-Lactic acid has the best therapeutic index, meaning skin renewal versus possible irritation. RégimA utilises the finest highly concentrated L-Lactic Acid, combined with numerous antiageing actives, elastin, hyaluronic acid, etc. necessary to achieve the most potent, yet safe, result. Partnering with Peel de Monaco is a perfect post treatment, Fruition Sérum de Monaco, to ensure actives are locked in and the skin has a tight film. If, following a peel, there is visible peeling, this should be treated immediately and not allowed to scab where possible. It’s important to note that if the skin is kept moist and supple with Laser Azu Repair for visible peeling, then the healing process is much more rapid. Post peel, one would spray a layer of Fruition Sérum de Monaco, allowing this to dry to a film, then apply a day treatment product such as Daily Radiant Boost, containing the finest sun protectors that will not block the pores, but nourish and protect. If the skin being treated is damaged, scarred or ageing, then Quantum Elastin Collagen Revival could be added to the home care regime.
EVEN THOUGH most peeling treatments performed by an expert are COMPLETELY SAFE, there are COMPLICATIONS that may occur from TIME TO TIME. These can be anything from IMMEDIATE REACTIONS that can manifest WITHIN MINUTES or even UP TO AN HOUR after peeling.
Peeling in practice
The beauty of adding chemical peels to a clinic menu is that they are cost effective and easy to apply, plus they can be a great entry level treatment into more advanced aesthetic wounding procedures, writes Karen Ellithorne hemical peeling is a simple and safe procedure to offer in an aesthetic clinic and can be defined as the action of applying a chemical agent of defined strength to the epidermis. This causes controlled destruction of the epidermis, which in turn stimulates a healing cascade of regeneration and remodelling to the skin, by speeding up the cell turnover and general functioning of the skin. Even though most peeling treatments performed by an expert are completely
Photo by Gustavo Fring from Pexels
safe, there are complications that may occur from time to time. These can be anything from immediate reactions that can manifest within minutes or even up to an hour after peeling. They can present as burning and irritation, persistent redness and even ocular complications. A more delayed reaction, however, can last from a few days up to a week and can be anything from loss of the cutaneous barrier, to tissue injury leading to bacterial and viral infections. Abnormal wound healing like scarring, delayed healing and textural changes are also a possibility. Adverse reactions to chemical reactions can occur from time to time caused by allergy and toxicity. Pigmentary changes such as hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation may also occur. Though the chances of many of these complications occurring are minimal in lower phototypes, they are more common place in the higher Fitzpatrick scales. The likelihood of complications occurring are higher when performing medium depth peels (penetrating to the reticular dermis) and deep peels (penetrating to the papillary dermis), as compared to more superficial peelings (penetrating the stratum corneum).
Complications can be best avoided by proper patient selection, appropriate patient education, adequate skin preparation prior to peeling, and post peeling care. The client’s skin needs to be functioning properly before starting a peeling protocol on the skin; the PH needs to be well balanced and the skin’s natural biome should be functioning optimally in order for the skin to be able to repair itself post treatment and for optimal results to be achieved.
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Patient selection also plays a vital role when it comes to preventing complications. It is always best to begin with a thorough client history and consultation so that complications can be anticipated and prevented. If they do happen to occur, they can also be addressed as quickly as possible. The patients that would be considered more high risks are as follows: • Darker skin types with a tendency to develop post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. • Sensitive skin • Dry skin with a reddish hue. • Someone with an outdoor occupation • A history of photosensitivity or post inflammatory hyperpigmentation • The use of photosensitising drugs • History of keloids or poor wound heeling • Herpes infections • Recent use of isotretinoin • Unrealistic expectations and uncooperative or fussy patient
weeks prior to the peel. If the client is using any product which contains retinol it is important that they stop using this product three to five days prior to the skin treatment. It is recommended that patients not go for any hair bleaching, colouring treatments or hair removal on the area to be treated five days before the peel is to be applied. If a patient is prone to herpes simplex breakouts, it is recommended that they go onto medical treatment two days prior to peel for the condition and continue seven to 14 days afterwards, or until re-epithelialisation has occurred.
THE LIKELIHOOD of COMPLICATIONS occurring are HIGHER WHEN performing MEDIUM DEPTH PEELS (penetrating to the reticular dermis) AND DEEP PEELS (penetrating to the papillary dermis), as compared to more SUPERFICIAL PEELINGS (penetrating the stratum corneum). Considerations
Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels
The completion of a detailed consent form is a necessary step in managing complications with patients. During the signing of this document, the client must be taken through the treatment protocol thoroughly, outlining the possible risks, the expected results and early warning signs that may indicate the development of complications like erythema, hyperpigmentation and crusting. Furthermore, the importance of correct home maintenance products post peeling for maintenance and complication prevention must be covered in this document and also the necessity to avoid UV exposure and the use of any other chemical irritants on the skin. Pre-procedure, it is important that the skin is primed adequately for at least two to four
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When considering which peel to do on which patient, it is very important to select the right peeling agent at the right peeling concentration for the skin being treated. For the first few treatments, remember that less is more. If trichloroacetic acid or glycolic acid enters the eyes, always have a syringe filled with saline on hand so that you can rinse the eye immediately to prevent any ocular damage. Also, always keep a dry swab on hand in case the eyes tear up during a treatment to prevent peeling solution from running into the eyes. Never pass the peeling cup or beaker over the patient’s face. When doing higher phototypes, especially with medium and deep peels, peeling agents should be feathered at the edges to merge with the surrounding normal skin to avoid demarcation. Lastly, remember to always check the peel label and expiry date as peeling agents’ potency can vary with time. Though peeling complications may occur from time to time, they are quite unlikely in the hands off a qualified well trained aesthetic therapist. Thorough knowledge about chemical peeling and the risks involved, as well as adequate patient education, will ensure minimal complications.
A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. Email firstname.lastname@example.org
PRODUCT NEWS Super styling
Indola’s new and improved Care & Styling range offers high performance, smart technology, affordability and packaging that stands out. It is the perfect go-to range for any stylist wanting simply smarter products that work harder than any others. Indola’s new packaging follows the latest trends with bold, bright colours and modern shapes that stand out on the shelf. It is made with up to 50% recycled plastic. 011 617 2400
In the market Our round-up of new beauty and hair products and treatments
Beauté Pacifique’s Enriched Moisturising Crème (Non Fragranced) is an intensive and long lasting moisture day care cream with squalane, formulated specifically for both normal and combination skin. It contains 33 ingredients perfectly balanced for optimal dermal hydration and protection. Active ingredients include aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice powder (for its humectant properties); hydrolysed collagen & sodium hyaluronate (for moisture maintenance); and vitamins A & C. 073 053 8830
Nimue’s new Purifying range is formulated to help problematic skin conditions with relief from breakouts, oiliness, pustules and pimples, while lessening the appearance of enlarged pores. As well as Nimue’s signature Triple AHA complex that works to improve skin from beneath the surface, the new range includes Dermabiotics (a blend of prebiotics and postbiotics) that work to balance the skin’s microbiome. 011 036 9637
From Litchi & Titch, The Serum has all-natural, specifically curated ingredients which have been carefully formulated into a lightweight Gel-Lotion that glides effortlessly onto skin, leaving a satin-like residue. This product melts into the dermis, fighting skin concerns at a cellular level. 072 318 0322
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NAIL FILE ISSUE 52
ALL OUT GLITZ & GLAM Met Gala nails
Lasting effect Service longevity
ny nail tech wanting to be on her game in terms of international nail trends, particularly nail art trends, will keep a close eye on the fashion runway, as well as on red carpet events, because both are ideal platforms for the latest and greatest in nail looks, colours, shapes and designs. One event that truly epitomises both fashion and red carpet is the annual Met Gala, held at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art. Each year, this mega event is curated by the world’s acknowledged ‘Queen of Fashion’, Vogue’s Anna Wintour. Annually the Met Gala sees a long parade of specially selected ‘it’ models, fashion designers, film stars, music stars and sports stars, all resplendent and dressed according to whatever that year’s theme is. This time it was ‘Gilded Glamour’ – an absolutely fabulous theme for all those who delight in glitz, glam and sparkly nails. Our news page carries a report on the most striking designs seen on the night. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Photo by Bia Sousa from Pexels
What’s INSIDE 39
Industry News Stay in the know
Ask the Experts
How to ensure service longevity
How nail techs can save on their budget
Product Focus Nail brushes
All the latest releases
Step by Step Star flower
Top Tech Talk Nadia Ströh
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@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA
Nail looks from fashion’s biggest night The Met Gala, regarded as the premier event on the annual global fashion calendar, took place at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art on 2 May. A smorgasbord of eye-popping fashion was on display on the red carpet, aligning to the event’s theme of ‘Gilded Glamour’. New York-based nail artist, Eri Ishizu, produced the standout nail look of the night – on rapper Lizzo – extremely long, spiraled (corkscrew) onxy and gold nails. Conversely, perhaps one of the simplest designs was seen on Oscar-winner, Jessica Chastian, whose medium length, almond nails were devoid of any art or embellishments but perfectly matched to her magnificently opulent, scarlet Gucci gown. NYC session nail artist, Julie Kandelec, layered two different shades of Gucci lacquer to get the exact colour. Social media star, Addison Rae, wore striking graphite encrusted nails designed by Natalie Minerva. Rae even had graphite embellishments running well below the cuticle onto the middle fingers. Rapping legend Nicki Minaj proudly wore different designs on each talon, alternating between black and nude, to match her alternative-style black outfit, complete with leather cap and leggings. Fellow rapper, Megan Thee Stallion, opted for lipstickshaped, gold dipped, long French tips British actress Lily James had embellished translucent nails, with charms dangling from the tips of the thumb and index fingers. Nails were by Betina Goldstein, who also did actress Gemma Chan’s nails – in chrome with silver hardware and a silver chain nail bracelet. Jodie Turner-Smith’s long nude nails had embellishments at the tips, while Vanessa Hudgens’ nails were also nude but even longer and with a single jewel on each nail.
What with the likes of music stars Harry Styles and Machine Gun Kelly having rocked manicures for quite a while now, it wasn’t a surprise to see some male celebs on the Met Gala red carpet sporting conspicuous nail designs. Resplendent in a Tommy Hilfiger suit, Shawn Mendes’ nail design by Betina Goldstein was in a matte navy shade, with a handpainted Hilfiger flag and some gold clusters. Julie Kandelec’s black and gold set for Joe Jonas consisted of different designs on each finger and gilded accents, while Ben Platt opted for plain, pale pink extensions.
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Lily James @betina_goldstein
Shawn Mendes @betina_goldstein
Megan Thee Stallion @megtheestallion
Gemma Chan @betina_goldstein
Joe Jonas @julieknailsnyc
Addison Rae @natalieminervanails
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Photo by Lisa Fotios from Pexels
How does my client maintain her services once she’s left the salon? s a professional you make every effort to provide your client with the best possible service that offers the most effective results, however there is only so much you can do in the salon environment. Once the client leaves the salon they need to maintain their service at home and often when something does go wrong, they will blame the nail professional even though you may have performed a good service. If the client does not know how to maintain their service and is not informed about what to use and how to take care of their service once they leave the salon, it is inevitably the nail professional’s fault! Recommend and sell a good quality nail and cuticle oil as not only does it benefit the client’s natural nail and cuticles, but it is also good for nail enhancements, gel polish or any nail coating. A good quality cuticle oil, which consists of natural ingredients (particularly light penetrating oils), will not only toughen up the natural nail and hydrate the surrounding skin tissue, but can greatly benefit enhancements, preventing them from cracking and lifting while maintaining the health and condition of the natural nails and skin. Suggest that your client use products such as hand lotions and nail serums regularly. She should also wear gloves when using household detergents to protect her hands from the daily rigours of housework and environmental damage.
ADVISE YOUR CLIENT not to use her NAIL ENHANCEMENTS or COATINGS AS TOOLS, although they may BE STRONGER and MORE DURABLE than her own NATURAL NAILS. It is NOT recommended that the client change her nail enamel too often, as this will only expose her nails to lifting or cracking which she could start picking or filing at, which will only give you more work to do when she comes back to your salon for a rebalance. Advise your client NOT to clip, pick or bite their nail enhancements or nail coating, as this will only lead to cracks or more serious problems. Recommend a wearable and reasonable length that suits your client’s lifestyle. Advise your client not to use her nail enhancements or coatings as tools, although they may be stronger and more durable than her own natural nails. Follow up after your client’s first time appointment with a phonecall between seven to 10 days later to make sure everything is going well with her nail enhancements and to confirm her follow-up and rebalance appointment.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for over 30 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
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The budget conscious
Salon owner and educator, Marianka Van Niekerk, reveals how nail techs can save on their budget while still guaranteeing quality work to their clients
Image by Spabielenda from Pixabay
hen doing art and overlays, make sure the product you are purchasing has a great pigment. If you are doing art, you don’t want to keep repainting and repainting and building layer upon layer, thickening the design because the product you bought is transparent and runny. Keeping with the same product brand when using base and top coat and when mixing colours is advised. But, it’s not a train smash if you mix another brand into the equation, just as long as it’s a quality professional product and you don’t get pooling or lifting with the products. Very important is that you use a good quality base. Start with thin layers so that when they cure, the curing reaches through to the base layer and not just the top layer, which will result in ruffling, chipping and lifting. From there you can start building on the colour.
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You can test the quality of a product by the opaqueness in its pigment. A. Does it pool when you layer? B. Is it too runny? C. Is it so transparent that you have to keep layering the colour? D. Is it thick but with minimal pigment or blotchy pigment? E. Does it look like the pigments are not mixing into the product ingredients? F. Does it look like it’s pulling away when it cures?
There are a lot of great cost-effective quality products when it comes to nail polishes and art products. However, when doing acrylics, I would strongly advise you to stick with well-known products that are tested and safe to use. You don’t want to end up with a product containing MMA or any substance that is harmful to both you and your client.
Don’t purchase products that will only stand on a shelf and degrade. Most products have a shelf life and do get old and unusable. So, when there’s a sale on a polish, don’t buy 10 units if you know you won’t use them. Then you are wasting instead of saving. Products that are safe in bulk: A. Glitters, mylar, spangles, foil etc. B. Powders, pigments, chromes and any other dry type of art. C. Crystals, some studs (silver and gold may discolour after a period of time). Products that are not safe in bulk: A. Gels, paints, pigment paint, gel pens, etc., as these dry up and start clotting. B. Dry paints are safe, such as the cubes used for water painting and aquarelle art, but any paints that are distributed in tubes or tubs usually do have a shelf life. C. Primers, preps, monomers, gel cleansers and alcohol based liquids also have a shelf life and if left open, evaporate. D. Polygels – these product ingredients start to separate after a time and are difficult to mix or shake. I believe it is fine to use a more cost-effective brand because there are some professional brands that have proven to be good quality even though the name might not be well known and the packaging is on the cheaper side.
VERY IMPORTANT is that you use a GOOD QUALITY BASE. START WITH THIN LAYERS so that when they cure, THE CURING REACHES THROUGH to the BASE LAYER and not just the top layer.
There are some PROFESSIONAL BRANDS that have PROVEN TO BE GOOD QUALITY even though the name MIGHT NOT BE well known. Snap survey
I asked some nail technicians and members of the public which of the three products below looked the most expensive to the cheapest. Almost all of the persons participating could not tell the difference between the three.
A. R25 – a bottle of gel bought from a local hyper store B. R136 – a more expensive and professional brand C. R80 – a cheaper brand that could be used at home Out of all these, everyone guessed that C was the expensive brand. When using the correct base, I think you can almost always use a more cost effective quality brand and it will last just as long. If you do excellent work and your nail sets are neat, you can make any quality product work for you and for your client.
Marianka van Niekerk is the owner and founder of Elysian nails, as well as an ambassador and nail art educator for Zsa Zsa Professional Nails. She says: “Life in the seat of a nail tech is never boring, which is why I love my work. Not only is it my job, but my passion as well. Creating sets for clients that make them happy, makes me happy in return. I work with some of the most amazing people and we are always thriving to achieve the next amazing set.”
The Fine Art Brush from Bio Sculpture is a high quality fine brush tip that allows the technician to achieve the finest detailing and line work. It is ideal for hand painting small and intricate designs.
Image by Nuno Lopes from Pixabay
Brushing up your service
Bio Sculpture’s No. 4 French Brush is a slanted bristle brush used to create nail art designs and the perfect French smile line. 051 943 0377
Indispensable tools in many nail services, brushes – be they for enhancements or nail art or other treatments – come in a variety of shapes and sizes to suit specific applications
The flat gel brush (Code: GBKF) from Calgel, like all the brand’s gel application brushes, is a high standard Japanese brush made from artificial bristles. Wooden handles offer a biodegradable benefit, as well as better grip during use. The flat gel brush is the most commonly used gel application brush and can be used on all nail sizes and shapes. The protective metal brush caps are available separately in pink or purple.
Calgel’s round gel brush (Code: GBKR) makes application on smaller nails with a rounded cuticle area easier. The protective metal brush caps are available separately in pink or purple. 011 624 1101 / 614 0733
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The Pro 9 ProHesion Acrylic Brush from Gelish is hand crafted and made with the finest Kolinsky hair. This professional brush is designed to work with acrylic without collecting product, making it easy to keep your bristles clean. The brush has an oval shape that tapers from the body of the brush to a fine point to ensure perfect smile lines. To ensure the longevity of this brush, clean with ProHesion Sculpting Liquid, reshape, and store the brush lying flat.
ProHesion/ Gelish’s Acrylic Maestro Brush is a high-quality sculpting brush made with premium Kolinsky hair and an ergonomic wooden handle for excellent product application. 011 447 0659
IN THE MARKET
Product Hub Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails
Gelish and Morgan Taylor are thrilled to introduce the new Sing 2 Winter 2022 colour collection in collaboration with Illumination’s ‘Sing 2’ animated movie. The collection is full of glitz, glam and gorgeous shades inspired by everyone’s favourite ‘Sing’ characters. Colours range from the softest hues to the most showstopping glitters and shimmers. 011 447 0659
Bio Sculpture has launched a single new Biogel colour – Very Peri – to match this year’s Pantone Colour of the Year. This uplifting shade celebrates the survival of challenging times. Steering away from soft shades, Ver Peri is a strong yet feminie periwinkle blue, carefully blended with reds. Nail techs can enhance the look by adding some Very Sparkle Glitter. 051 943 0377
Calgel launches five new vibrant gel colours, as part of the Calgel Plus colour gel range. Known as the Celebration collection, these gel colours are highly pigmented and offer great coverage. Calgel colour gels are well known for offering beautiful, long lasting gel nails without the damage. These colours are available in a 2.5g jar. 011 624 1101 / 614 0733
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STEP BY STEP
Star flower This pretty design was created by Elaine Timcke
After the proper nail preparation, application and curing of a layer base gel, apply two layers of Calgel PI11, curing between each layer. This is a shimmery soft peach shade.
Mix a small amount of loose glitter with a small amount of clear gel and apply to the nail surrounding the cuticle area. Use the gel brush to blend the glitter in such a way that it creates an ombré effect. You can apply this to some of the nails, for varying effect.
Elaine Timcke is the sales & marketing manager of Calgel/ Cal-Mo (Pty) Ltd.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Apply a very thin layer of Calgel base layer and do not cure. Use any thin nail art brush to create a dot of colour on top of the uncured gel, and as you lift off the brush, cause the drop of gel to create a tail as you drag the brush outward. The colour I used is Calgel PU04. Repeat this until you have formed a flower shape. Cure the gel. For extra effect you can have different size flowers on each nail.
On some of the nails you can now repeat Step 3, but this time use a different colour on top of the existing flower for a layered effect. I used Calgel plus M02PU. Apply some gold rhinestones for the centres of the flowers and seal with a layer of Calgel top gel.
Top Tech Talk
NailFile puts the spotlight on salon owner, nail technician and educator, Nadia Ströh, of The Nail Art Studio in Stellenbosch
Apart from running your own salon, you are an avid participant in nail art competitions, having participated and placed in NailFile’s Photographic Online competitions. Please comment. Entering competitions, especially something like the NailFile competition, has brought amazing online exposure to my brand and given me an opportunity to showcase my nail art abilities.
Why do you think it is important for nail techs to enter nail competitions, both live and online?
Because it puts you in a space where you can push yourself and your technique. It allows you to think outside the box and potentially do things you never thought possible.
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Q&A What advice would you give to someone entering a live nail competition?
The most important thing to me is being prepared. With most competitions, you already receive a briefing days (if not weeks) in advance. So, prepare everything you can control upfront: make sure you have the right tools; have a neat and organised table setup; and prepare your design, or practice the competition technique.
FOR ME, every time I USED a NEW TECHNIQUE IN A COMPETITION SPACE, it opened up more and MORE POSSIBILITIES for MY CLIENTS AND STUDENTS in my work space. How do you personally control your nerves during a live competition? When I first started doing nails, I was an extreme perfectionist – everything on that nail had to be perfect and if it was not, I wanted to have an entire meltdown. This was until my mom pulled me to the side one day and told me to just chill out and stop ‘faffing’. She always says that if your heart is calm, the nails will be beautiful. That I have carried with me in the work place and in competition spaces. Sometimes you just have to let it go and move on to the next step – don’t faff.
Your nail art style in the NailFile competitions has been very distinctive – how would you describe it?
Well, I don’t have a specific style when it comes to nail art because I like to follow the style the design calls for. In other words, when I did the ‘Marvel vs DC’ set, the design called for a very detailed comic book style, but for my ‘Big Five’ set, I played around with a more realistic and textured style.
Is there a big demand for nail art in your salon?
Absolutely. It has been amazing introducing all styles of nail art to my clients. There aren’t many technicians who are comfortable with nail art, so I pride myself on being able to do, or at least try, any design my clients bring into the studio.
What sort of nail art is most requested at your salon at the moment?
I have been blessed with a very diverse client base, so I really play around with all kinds of nail art requests. Having said that however, a French ombré is an absolute favourite all year round.
When did you open your salon?
I opened The Nail Art Studio in 2020, having started off just doing nails but I now offer online nail art workshops too. At the moment I am working alone as a technician and educator, but I am very excited to start growing The Nail Art Studio even further and creating a space where clients can get creative with their nails, but at the same time learn how to take care of their natural nails. As a Bio Sculpture Western Cape educator, natural nail health is very important. For me it is vital to educate my clients and teach them that it is not just about having beautiful nails with product on, but having beautiful nails without product too.
online @ probeauty.co.za
AS AN EDUCATOR, there is nothing better than being able TO INSPIRE SOMEONE ELSE. THE EXCITEMENT OF LEARNING a new TECHNIQUE and getting it right, OR SEEING THE PASSION that some of my STUDENTS HAVE, IS UNMATCHED. If I can get a student as EXCITED ABOUT NAILS AS I AM, that’s a highlight. You have an active Instagram account – what advice would you give a salon owner who wants to promote their nail services on this platform?
Instagram has been my most incredible marketing tool these past two years. Social media is such a big part of our lives and it is the best way to reach new clients. If you are serious about growing your business and getting your name out there, invest in growing your social media. This does not necessarily mean investing money because it’s more about investing time. Create content regularly, interact with your followers and be available to them. Remember that it is not about how many followers you have but how interactive your followers are. If you have 100 followers but they are answering posts, commenting, liking, sharing or saving your work, they are much more valuable than 10,000 followers who just scroll past your posts. Create promotion posts on Instagram to reach your target audience. Again, it is not about getting as many followers as possible, it is about reaching the right people. Get a brand image. How are you going to portray yourself on social media? What are you offering that no one else is?
What has been the highlight of your career? My entire career has been one big highlight! I absolutely love everything I do as a salon owner, technician and educator, and I am so proud of everything I have achieved. However, as an educator, there is nothing better than being able to inspire someone else. The excitement of learning a new technique and getting it right, or seeing the passion that some of my students have, is unmatched. If I can get a student as excited about nails as I am, that’s a highlight.
Do you have any mentors in the industry?
Yes of course! The first Bio Sculpture nail technician, the Queen of Sculptures, the most amazing educator – and my mom – Amanda Ströh. She has taught me everything I know and I definitely would not be where I am without her guidance. Her passion, work ethic and willingness to always grow and learn is inspiring.
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We hope you enjoyed this edition of Professional Beauty If you would like to view previous issues of the magazine please click HERE
AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
Be Inspired Be Motivated Be Business Focused The BIG Buzz Business Events
A BIG Buzz Business Event Tuscan Rose Bloemfomtein 20 June 2022
Be Inspired Be Motivated Be Business Focused
Almost halfway through 2022 We are almost halfway through the year and what a year it has been so far! We as Bio Sculpture have launched many new products and have hosted our very own EXPO on 9 May 2022 at Monte Casino, JHB. We had such an amazing turnout, and we would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone that took the time out of their diaries to come and spend their day with us. It was great to see you all and we are so grateful to see your eagerness to learn, grow and invest in yourselves and your salons. We still have many exciting upcoming launches planned for this year, so join us at one of the professional beauty expos to see what we are up to. We will be at all of professional beauty’s conferences this year (JHB, DBN, PE, CPT and BFN) come visit our stand to see what’s new, chat to one of our educators, find out about our training deals and much more. BIO SCULPTURE is an award winning nail product that consists of 5 sub-brands, we pride ourselves in our professionalism and have award winning nail technicians worldwide. Our purpose is to provide quality products and professional training, empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashionable nail care systems, guided by an ethical business approach.
Our 5 Sub Brands: 1. BIOGEL is the original, professional, soak-off, easy wear nail gel system in a jar. With a 5-star Safety Rating boasting natural nail health, while beautifully enhancing and transforming any nail. A scientifically formulated pure gel range which varies from flexible to solid, BIOGEL is suitable for every nail type and is excellent for extending & strengthening nails. 2. EVO gel polish is quick and easy to apply. With excellent adhesive properties, EVO is an extremely durable, long-lasting, high shine gel overlay. This Gel Polish system in a bottle consists of Base Gels, Colours and Top Coat. 3. ETHOS is the Nail Care range for natural nails by BIO SCULPTURE, pledged to Nail HEALTH. The unique property of the key natural ingredient in each individual treatment is discretely displayed on its bottle. Ideal for professional salon use and home care. Each product in this range has a unique scent, colour and formulation used to support, soothe, moisturise or strengthen your natural nails. 4. GEMINI -representing “twins”- is Bio Sculpture’s Nourishing Nail Polish which matches BIOGEL colours. 14ml of GEMINI colour is brilliantly displayed in the recognisable square bottle. GEMINI contains hardening plant extract agents derived from Aloe Vera, Lemon and Ginseng. It is fast drying, long lasting and will add strength to the nail. Gemini has a UV filter and is Styrene Free. 5. BI-OLYGEL is a UV gel, strengthened with acrylic paste to bring out the best properties of both gel and acrylic systems, creating a firm hard gel that is easy and quick to apply. We hope to see you soon!
FULL COVER TIPS
INSTANTLY CREATING PERFECT SHAPE & LENGTH A perfect, durable upper arch is achieved in a one-layer application. The pre-cut tips can be shortened and shaped to create different lengths and shapes.
A chic, medium length coffin shape gives you a modern feel.
COFFIN STILETTO ALMOND LONG
A stylish, long length coffin shape leaves you feeling bold and adventurous.
The striking long stiletto is a daring showstopper.
This sophisticated medium length almond shape is impressively elegant.
A classic, the medium length square shape is a comfortable everyday wear shape.
The traditional medium length round shape will always stand the test of time.
A comfortable short oval shape gives a natural look and feel.
Rewild Your Skin with Esse good microbes and two of the best-selling serums contain live probiotic species to make functional changes to the skin’s microbiome. Testing in Germany has shown that the Esse Probiotic Serum improves skin firmness by an average of 16% in 28 days, with 100% of the test subjects showing an improvement in skin condition.
South African bioclinical, probiotic skincare brand Esse presents its microbiomefriendly range of professional products and facial treatments. Pioneering probiotic skincare, Esse takes a science-based approach to skin wellness, providing advanced formulations capable of insalon or in-spa microbiome intervention. Most people associate probiotics (beneficial microbes) with maintaining a healthy gut. Leading scientists have now discovered that optimal skin condition also relies on the contributions of healthy microbial populations. Without microbes, the skin
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can’t perform its basic functions and the rate of skin ageing increases sharply. Traditional skincare and modern lifestyles have disrupted the skin’s natural microbiome, negatively impacting skin health. This is illustrated by the rise in incidence of modern skin concerns such as pigmentation, acne, rosacea and dehydration. Each Esse treatment uses tailored probiotic and organic ingredients to hydrate, soothe and renew the skin, shifting the microbiome to a new normal to reduce inflammation and slow the ageing process. Esse products create an environment on the skin that favours the growth of beneficial microbes. Prebiotics are used to selectively feed
Esse is the only brand in South Africa to offer high-tech probiotic skincare and facial treatments, encouraging the industry to shift their conventional view of the skin. Esse sees the skin as an ecology of human and microbial cells, and incorporates this view into the formulation and production of all its products. Esse practices certified ethical standards and are organic, vegan, crueltyfree, and plastic- and carbon neutral. Esse is about more than just clean beauty or a trend; it’s a lifestyle. Esse partners with first class salons and spas worldwide who are seeking to deliver the ultimate in skin health and wellbeing to their guests. For more information about Esse or to become a stockist contact email@example.com
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NOT YOUR ORDINARY SUPPLIER….. In fact we don’t refer to ourselves as suppliers, we are your BRAND AND BUSINESS PARTNERS! Suppliers sell you product we sell you solutions, ideas and inspiration! The Spa Consultants offer a full one stop solution to your spa, salon or aesthetic clinic needs. Starting with concept, design and building of your space with over 40 magnificents projects completed to date and another 2 show stoppers being built in South Africa and a unique rain forest spa project in India! We are proud to be chosen as the Spa Operations Officers for the Spa group, so watch this space. Our business systems are ground breaking and truly life changing for business owners. We move in and literally TRANSFORM your business. This is a guarantee Spa Professionals Guild looks after business owners and managers continuous professional development with an online platform connecting professionals from around the world to share best practices and have access to updated templates, tools and SOP’s to simply make your business more efficient and profitable. We have over 100 members from 21 countries so join us and watch your business knowledge and systems literally transform. SIX AESTHETIX is a revolutionary solution for Aesthetic Clinics and Doctors who specialize in anti ageing and aesthetic treatments. we have the most advanced skin peeling systems that can be used to treat pigmentation on dark skins which is really a first! We have the only Scar Repair Cream to have 6 active ingredients working together and shows results in as little as a few weeks. We have a range of devices and equipment that is state of the art technology with quick return on investments and jaw dropping results. Our latest technology is RF needling using 81 gold plated pins to needle the skin whilst delivering Radio Frequency energy into the deeper layers of the skin for an instant tightening and lifting effect. So now you have combination of collagen boosting and non surgical skin tightening SIX SKINCARE delivers memorable skincare experiences! Yes, we don’t do facials, we do EXPERIENCES with instant results. And at the same time offering the industry the highest margins available so you make real money on your skincare. 40% is just not good enough anymore and we are committed to helping you grow and make money. Spalicious is an Award Winning hands, feet and body brand! We treat bodies the same way we treat faces, so once again not an ordinary product but a results driven sensorial experience is what we deliver with this magnificent brand. Whats coming up next???? We are so excited to announce that we will finally be launching our all natural baby and toddler range as well as a pregnancy range with some beautiful treatments for that special time in a womans life. Watch this space we are almost there! We would love to connect with you and lets see how we can help each other grow and evolve, so contact us and lets meet. 011 312-7840 firstname.lastname@example.org, email@example.com, firstname.lastname@example.org
The Spa Consultants will be SHOWCASING the very first RF Needling Machine in SA!!! Come and experience a treatment for FREE valued at R2000 and see for yourself the results of this latest technology using 81 gold plated pins to needle the skin whilst delivering Radio Frequency energy into the deeper layers of the skin for an instant tightening and lifting effect. So now you have combination of collagen boosting and non surgical skin tightening. If you want to pre book your treatment as we have limited spaces please contact Micaela on 011 312 7840
The pHower of pHformula Who is pHformula? Through continuous research and innovation at the Laboratories in Barcelona, Spain, pHformula has become a leader in the medical aesthetic industry for the skin specialist. “Our integrated approach between cosmeceutical and medical skin care has created the first pharma-cosmeceutical range available in more than 45 countries globally.” Petru van Zyl, FOUNDER
What makes pHformula different? pHformula has a very different approach to skin care. Thanks to the over 30 years’ combined experience from the most sought-after skin specialists, we were able to ask some vital questions and create the perfect answers. What were those industry-changing questions? • Why do we need to use multiple products to treat one skin concern? Why not use one product to treat multiple concerns instead? • Can superior results only come from traditional peeling? Isn’t there another way to affect this treatment without the consumer having to deal with the superficial trauma and the downtime? • Can we give the highest level of concentrated ingredient safely to consumers for them to use daily and continuously? • Are the products available in the professional skin care industry giving skin specialists the tools they need to customize best-re-
sult solutions for their consumer’s multiple skin concerns? And the answer we came up with? pHformula is the first skin care line offering advanced skin resurfacing, as opposed to traditional peeling. Traditional peeling was done with neutralizing acids. Our advanced products, PH-DVC™ and Powerclay™, create optimal cell-regeneration through ‘layer and leave on’ acid application formulations. As a result, the pHformula supports the skin improvement with high concentrations - but without the downtime. Whatever you think, think the opposite A cosmetic approach may have been how skin specialists were trained in South Africa in the past. The advances we have created make this an outdated approach. Here at pHformula, we do things differently. That’s why pHformula is all about ‘whatever you think, think the opposite’. The new age of medical aesthetics needs a new heartbeat. Our passion is to bring skin care spe-
often not ready for this. Not all of the more experienced skin specialists keep up-to-date on the latest technological advances. We may have the best products, but we want skin specialists to deliver what’s best for the client. When faced with yet another product training session, most skin specialists are normally filled with the dread. Past experience has proved to be no more than a brain washing session on why the brand educator’s product is the best as well as the strict treatment protocols that must be followed when applying the product. A pHowerful new way of learning the skills a skin specialist needs today We want skin specialists to start asking the right questions and challenging the norm. This is, we believe, where they will grow to their full potential. This is the foundation of our training. And it’s why pHformula education is all about ‘whatever you think, think the opposite’. That vision is seen in how our education plays out in our small groups and our training materials.
Selected Groups Our training environment is based on selected groups for optimal discussion and practical time. Shared knowledge is the strongest knowledge and small groups make this possible. Our student-centered approach equips our skin specialists with the ability to apply their knowledge in a confident manner immediately. cialists into that new realm. Con- Our Training Materials sumers are looking for results driv- To keep our skin specialists at the en techniques, treatments, and forefront of leading skin-care products. Today’s consumers are products and techniques, all our more knowledgeable about skin education material is based on care than ever before. Skin care constantly updated clinical data specialists must know why one and research. ingredient is different to anothFor South-African skin specialists er, what the concentrations of who want to take their training ingredients in a product are, and even further, advanced workwhat combinations of treatments shops on skin histology, biochemand products would give them istry, cosmetic chemistry, and not only the quickest, but the medical aesthetics are held at best results. the heart of the brand at our skin Most entry level therapists are academy in Barcelona, Spain.
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RefectoCil: Industry experts in lash and brow tinting and styling The RefectoCil brand is synonymous with professional eyebrow and eyelash tinting products and have been trusted worldwide for over 90 years. Originating in Vienna, Austria, the lash and brow tints were developed in 1930 by Viennese hairdresser, Josef Gschwentner. He was dissatisfied with what was available on the market and decided to create his own hair dyes launching the first professional eyebrow and eyelash dye, RefectoCil. The RefectoCil product range has since grown substantially and is now sold in 65 countries worldwide. The team at RefectoCil are innovative and update their product offerings in line with international trends. This has led to an impressive, everexpanding range of products and treatments. The RefectoCil brand now boasts a comprehensive range of 8 colours and a blonde brow bleach to perfect every look and provide each client with their own personalised treatment. The colour tints last up to 6 weeks providing a natural, smudge-proof, and
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waterproof result. In addition, the RefectoCil Brow Highlighter and the Brow Liner, available in 3 shades, can be used to enhance the total look. The professional RefectoCil Eyelash Lift and Eyelash Curl treatment kits are a popular addition to the range to enable these services to be offered in salons along with the latest Brow Lift treatment – a first of its kind for S.A. The growing movement towards clean beauty and veganism led to the development of the RefectoCil Intense Brows Range, which is to be launched in South Africa later this year. These intense eyelash and eyebrow tints are based on plant extracts that is 100% natural and is especially suitable for those with sensitive skin. Available in 3 colour shades: Black, Dark Brown and Medium Brown with a unique 2-Step Application process.
Lash & Brow Booster Serum, Eye Care Pads, Styling Gel, Care Balm and Micellar Eye Makeup Remover are all products that can be purchased from a salon and used at home. In line with their approach to keeping up to date with the latest product offerings, RefectoCil are equally involved and committed to educating and training therapists in the latest treatments, using the RefectoCil branded application tools. These include: the Lash Lifter, the Browista Palette, The Browista Tool Kit, Mini Application Dishes, Silicone Pads, Tweezers and the new Brow Mapper. Thanks to the professionals at RefectoCil – the possibilities are endless! Follow us on social media @refectocilsa and for more information on the RefectoCil range and distributors, visit www.refectocil. co.za.
RefectoCil have embraced a holistic approach to each client’s beauty needs and recently created a line of aftercare products that can be used at home to further enhance customer’s lash and brow needs. The RefectoCil
Tinting is just the beginning!
Visit us at the expo to see our impressive range of RefectoCil lash and brow styling products and services