Year 11 Issue 6
Style, Style & Style Again
Where Results, Performance, Vibrancy and Economy all come to a head...
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CONTENTS ON THE COVER 20-12 Infinite Styling This Christmas with ghd
REGULARS 10 Editors Letter 80-81 Hair Shop 24-27 Industry News
INTERNATIONAL FEATURE 12-14 Damien Carney 16-18 Robert Lobetta 24-27 Industry News
FEATURE 22-23 10 Minutes with Kevin Murphy 28-30 A 21st Century Genius Shaun McGrath 38 Portrait of an Educator, Bernadette Beswick
PROFILE 52 Glamour in the Palm of Your Hand 54 Causing A Riot 56 It’s A Good Hair Day 58 Crazy Colour Celebrates 40th Anniversary in Style 60 Welcome to the World of Wella
COLLECTIONS 76-77 Colourful World By Truc Le Hairdesign and Studio 235
40 A Powerhouse Partnership 42 Gemstone Haircolour By Kristina Russell
78-79 Crazy Color By Crazy Colorck & Chris Horsman
2017 AHIA WINNERS
82 Not Your Average Barbershop
32 Louise Williamson - Junior/ Apprentice of the Year 33 Leslie Henshaw – Salon Stylist of the Year 34 Kelcie Murray - Salon Manager of the Year 35 Toni and Guy Newton – Best Franchised Salon of the Year
BARBERING BLOG SPOT
86 Trichology with Simone Lee 88 You Have the Pony Power By Paul Frasca 90 Why Am I Not Rich Yet By Kirstie Stafford 91 There are Seven Days in a Week and Someday Isn’t One of Them By Steve Corthine
44 Pandora’s Hair Witchery 46-48 Roca Verde
EVENTS 50 Wella International Trendvision 2017 64-67 PH> club Schwarzkopf Bali Bound By Linda Woodhead 68 Chroma Opens Second Location 69 DeLorenzo 2017 ASPYA Conference 70 Utopia 72-75 Something for Everyone at Salon International
92 5 Compelling Reasons to Grow Up About Salon Apprentices By Tara Sharland 94 Words and Actions… True Impacts By Kelly Kent 96 6 Sins Salon Owners Make on Social Media & What You Can Do to Avoid Them By Tahlia Shorter 98 Social Medial and Advertising the Right Message By Estelle Oliveri
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BEST JUNIOR/APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR BEST SENIOR STYLIST OF THE YEAR SALON MANAGER/COORDINATOR OF THE YEAR
BEST BARBER BUSINESS OF THE YEAR
BEST SALON DESIGN AWARD BEST SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR IN SALON TRAINING STATE & NATIONAL WHOLESALERS OF THE YEAR
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BEST CUSTOMER CARE
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CONTRIBUTORS Kym Krey Linda Woodhead Kristina Russell Simone Lee Paul Frasca Kirstie Stafford Steve Corthine Tara Sharland Kelly Kent Tahlia Shorter
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EDITOR’S LETTER As 2017 winds to a close and we brace ourselves for the busyness of our Christmas season, our thoughts will soon turn to the fresh new year ahead. Where would we like our business to be 12 months from now? If we imagine our business this time next year, how would we like it to be different? What would we like to change? What are we no longer willing to accept? The dawn of a new year gives us the chance to wipe the slate clean and reconsider our future. It’s the time to reevaluate what’s important and reconsider what we’ve always done. Is the way we do things currently producing the results we want? If not, now’s the time to make the change. But it’s easy to get overwhelmed when we’re setting new goals. Sometimes the task just seems too big to comprehend how we’ll ever achieve what we want- and that can be enough to keep us right where we are…. wanting so much more but unsure of how to get there from here. Remember: “You don’t have to see the whole staircase from here; just take the first step” Breaking large goals down into much smaller steps can make the process far easier and less daunting. Plus, we can then put a completion date on each step and pop these into our diary to include in our regular weekly or daily To Do List. Where do I want to be in a year? So then where will I need to be in 9 months? In 6 months? In 3 months? 2 Months? 1 month? 2 weeks and finally, what do I need to get done next week to get the ball rolling? And right there, before our eyes is our step-by-step plan that will lead us to our exciting new future. All is takes now is a sprinkle of discipline- if it’s in the diary, it gets done! But before it’s time for us to tackle 2018, we have the finishing touches to place on the year drawing to a close. It will be mid-December and the task before you is to ensure a bumper Christmas trade. During this time, without your guidance, our staff can panic just a little. With the prospect of jam-packed columns stretching as far as the eye can see, their tendency can be to just get clients ‘done and out’ in their effort to stay on time and not run behind. What does that mean for your business? Typically, whilst your turnover will increase, your average dollar-spend per client can often take a slide, along with your percentage of recommended retail sales and your rebooking rate. This is called survival mode, where your staff lose focus on expanding the service (thinking, “Well, I can’t fit any extra services in anyway!”) and pretty much try to hang on by their toenails! The cost to your business? Potentially thousands. Try to make this time as much fun as possible for them. It is Christmas after all! Decorate the salon, dress up in
Christmas gear and crank up the energy. Fill the fridge with both yummy treats and healthy food for those days when lunch might be a distant dream and talk to them daily about the importance of delivering an excellent and very thorough client experience right through this busy time. Having a daily focus or competition on an important aspect of client service (think rebooking %, retail %, average $ per client or even Client Service Champion voted by your team) can be a great way to keep the energy up and reward outstanding effort each day throughout this period. But when it’s all said and done and you close the door behind that last client on Christmas Eve, may your cash register be overflowing, your Christmas packs be all sold and your appointment book be full for January when you return….. and may you have someone waiting for you to massage those weary feet and refill your glass!
Merry Christmas Hair Biz readers from the Mocha Team to you! Here’s to a cracking 2018!
Kym Krey Editor firstname.lastname@example.org
HAIR BIZ Forum
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North American Hair Styling Awards Master Stylist of the Year 2017
Extraordinary. Visionary. Breathtaking. These are just a few of the adjectives often used to describe the creative genius of Damien Carney. Undeniably one of the most accomplished hairstylists in the last 20 years, Carney has elevated hairstyling into an art form through an impressive body of work.
With a keen eye for detail and the ability to showcase a person’s natural assets, Carney has amassed a portfolio reflecting a virtual “Who’s Who” in fashion and beauty. Music and film stars such as Ryan Gosling, Grace Jones, as well as super models and “A - List” celebrities turn to Carney to create their image-defining hairstyles. Demonstrating strong talent early in his career, Carney was invited by creative powerhouse, Trevor Sorbie, to join his legendary Covent Garden Salon where he not only enjoyed the ‘training of a lifetime’, being mentored by one of the industry’s most prolific artists of all time, he worked alongside industry icons Eugene Souleiman, Vivienne Mackinder, Ruth Roche and Antoinette Beenders. Now, a much sought after artistic leader, Damien is currently serving as Creative Director for Schwarzkopf Professional North America where he oversees the creative content and image for the brand. In a career woven with honors and accolades, Damien has recently added one more, being named the 2017 North American Hairstylist of the Year. Hair Biz Editor, Kym Krey spoke to Damien recently to talk inspiration, ‘T’ Sorbie and what it takes to build an extraordinary career.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY INTO THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY AND YOUR EARLY YEARS.
I started my hairdressing career at the age of 16 when I signed up to beauty school in Birmingham, UK. The program was a 2-year full time course and the teachers were amazing; very supportive
and great mentors. I have very fond memories of my time at there. During the course, I got a job on Saturdays which gave me real hair, real salon, experience and I would also attend training nights twice a week at the salon so I could further polish my skills. I was so shy that if somebody asked me to do something, my face would go bright red, but I was a great assistant, even if I say so myself! I was on my game, and enjoyed every day. It really wasn’t work, it was love for hairdressing.
WAS THERE AN EARLY TURNING POINT?
At the age of 19 I went to a hair show to see Jingles in London who were big at that time. They impressed me with their cutting skills, braiding, long hair…. it was out of this world, so I plucked up to courage to apply for a job as a stylist. I got an interview and part of that was to cut 3 models. I thought I did pretty well, but not so according to Jingles! I wasn’t terrible, but not up to their level and standard, so I took the challenge, accepted the job and refined my cutting skills. Eventually I worked in their Baker street salon and eventually the Academy but after about 18 months, I got home sick and went back to Birmingham to my family and friends. That lasted about 8 weeks. I was bored, bored, bored. The vibe, energy, skill, talent, and passion were not the same as working in London. London was cool, fun, thrilling and so much more. So, back I went to London.
WHO WERE SOME OF YOUR EARLY INFLUENCES?
Toni and Guy, Vidal Sassoon, Trevor Sorbie: the leaders of the industry at that time. They all did amazing things with hair. So skilled, talented and ground breaking. During the early part of my career (16 – 19 years), stylists from a lot of great salons would hang out at bars and clubs and chat with each other. I got to meet Frank Taylor, a hair cutter at Sassoon’s and attend some of his seminars and training nights. I thought he was amazing and he was a huge influence.
YOU WERE INVITED TO JOIN THE LEGENDARY TREVOR SORBIE AT HIS SALON DURING THE TIME OF EUGENE SOULEIMAN, VIVIENNE MACKINDER, RUTH ROCHE AND ANTOINETTE BEENDERS. WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO WORK SIDE BY SIDE WITH SUCH TALENTED STYLISTS?
My time at T Sorbie all started by going to a hair show where Trevor was one of the artists presenting. I remember when Trevor’s models hit the stage- the hairs on my arm stood up. I had never seen hair done or presented in this way and I was just blown away. So, I plucked up the courage to join his organization. I had to do a trade test again and cut 3 models and I ended up cutting my fingers which I’ve never done, because I was so nervous. I kept thinking: ‘Trevor Sorbie, the god of hair, will be checking my haircuts!’ My passion has and always will be education
so I moved up the ladder to become a teacher at the Trever Sorbie Academy of Hair which only attracted the best hairdressers around the world. I knew I had the most amazing job ever and working with Eugene, Viv, Ruth, Antoinette was simply incredible.
YOU’VE WON MANY PRESTIGIOUS AWARDS IN YOUR CAREER. DO YOU BELIEVE THESE HAVE BEEN TURNING POINTS FOR YOU OR OPENED NEW DOORS AND OPPORTUNITIES?
Absolutely, they have opened new opportunities and new doors. Entering awards is a way of showcasing your work, plus I love to push myself by stimulating my technical and creative skills. I love the photographic world of hair and what can be created on a model in a studio with a team. It’s thrilling! I never get tired or it. I’m like a kid in candy store. In today’s media-savvy world, you can gain so much by participating in competitions. It can be your way of showing the world who you are, what you want to be known for, what makes you special, what makes you stand out from the crowd.
“In life one has to grab the bull by the horns and go for it. There’s nothing to lose and everything to gain”
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR MOST RECENT ACCOLADE, THE NAHA MASTER STYLIST OF THE YEAR, 2017. WHAT DOES THIS PARTICULAR HONOUR MEAN TO YOU?
Thank you. Master Stylist is by invitation only and I was thrilled just to be invited alongside other notable hairdressers in this category. It’s a great honor to win this title. At the end of the day it pushes me to constantly challenge myself, to do better work, technically and creatively every day. What I learned in the early part of my career has not really changed that much, but it’s how you look at things, your perspective, your point of view that really evolves. I like to pull my haircuts apart, break them down and then put it all back together in a different way. I look through things, around things. I look at things back to front, inside and out and learn, what if.... why does it have to be that way? I should try this, I should do that. I believe that you must keep your eyes and ears cont’d over page
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
cont’d from page 13
open. listen, absorb, digest, evaluate and then you can create amazing hair.
YOUR WINNING COLLECTION FOR THE NAHAS IS INCREDIBLY BOLD AND STRIKING. WAS THERE A PARTICULAR INSPIRATION FOR THIS COLLECTION?
I wanted to keep all the looks very simple, clean and super technical. I wanted to show very modern shapes that are shorter to enhance the model’s facial features, personality and individual sense of style. I have my periods where I’ll only shoot real haircuts, or I’ll shoot all wigs, or I’’ll shoot all big hair. I’m all or nothing. It’s important to have your own signature and to produce something that is “unique”
YOU ALSO WORK WITH INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED PHOTOGRAPHERS ON SOME OF THE WORLD’S LEADING PRINT PUBLICATIONS. WHAT ADDITIONAL SKILLS DO YOU FEEL YOU NEED TO EXCEL IN THIS ASPECT OF THE INDUSTRY?
The skillset is not to make it look like the model has stepped out of the salon with perfect cut, color and finish. You have to consider the “whole” look. You’re part of a team and my job is to consider the hair concept and how it works with the makeup, the wardrobe, and how the photographer will shoot the image. It’s “not” about my hair screaming out in an image. It’s about my hair complimenting the overall image. You must also understand the magazine you’re working for. Cosmopolitan is different to Vogue. Vogue is different to Elle and so on. One needs great foundational hairdressing skills and good knowledge of what products to use. I’m always thinking solutions. What happens if the model has fine hair, but the concept demands thicker hair? What do I need to practice to achieve XYZ? Sometimes I’ve looked at my hair styles and think they’re a mess, but when it’s shot it looks fab. It’s not salon hair; its photographic hair and they’re worlds apart.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR MOBILE HAIRSTYLING AND PHOTOGRAPHY ACADEMY, DAMIEN CARNEY LONDON.
A lot of hairdressers don’t have the luxury of time to attend an academy so I’ve made it simple. My team and I travel to the client and deliver any format, content or educational experience in their salon, personalizing to suit their individual needs. I pack my tools, my suit case and I’m on my way. Education should be fun and relaxing. And that’s when you learn most.
DESCRIBE FOR US YOUR DREAM DAY ON THE JOB.
I’m doing it now and every day of the week. I’m 14
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
now in a position where I can choose when I work, with whom I work and on what project. In short, it’s having the flexibility to have freedom in my work and my work schedule that to me is invaluable. Shooting more is my goal as I love photography. I enjoy shooting beauty. I find a face so interesting. i couldIdo this all day long, every day. I’m very serious about my career, but hair should be fun, playful, artful. Our job is to make the person feel beautiful inside and out.
LOOKING BACK ON HOW YOUR CAREER HAS DEVELOPED, WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS?
I am so grateful for all the amazing opportunities I’ve had. In life one has to grab the bull by the horns and go for it. There’s nothing to lose and everything to gain. Stay focused. Listen, watch, practice, be open and the rest falls into place. Simply put, what you put into something, be it your career, personal life, hobbies, etc., is what you get out of it.
WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR DAMIEN CARNEY?
The same as what I’m doing now. I wouldn’t change a thing. Stay tuned and follow me on all social media to share the journey! Credits Hair and Photography: Damien Carney Make up: Roque Cozzette and Miyako Johnson Wardrobe Styling: Nikko Kefalas
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Creative Visionary - Sebastian Professional Hairdresser... Photographer... Rebel... Artist. Robert Lobetta is one of the elite talents who has shaped the world of international hairdressing in the 20th and 21st centuries. Having lead a truly inspiring journey from his beginnings as a young hairdresser in the mid 70’s, Robert entered the industry when hairdressers were rock stars in what was London’s most fashionable street, The Kings Road. With his profound respect for the art and craft of his profession, Robert is renowned for his unique style, eye for detail, and his compelling, thought-provoking ideas, along with his modern and daring photographic imagery. Known for dedicating over 20 years of his career to forging the artistic essence of Sebastian Professional, Robert now returns to the brand as Creative Visionary, responsible for seeking out and mentoring young hairdressing talents to collaborate with the brand and inspire them on their journey. Says Lobetta: “The reason I do what I do is to question myself in a creative capacity.” Few artists in any medium have held themselves to such uncompromising standards over a 40-year career. Always a hairdresser, forever a rebel, and essentially an artist. . . Robert Lobetta is the Renaissance man of our craft.
WHAT DREW YOU INITIALLY TOWARDS THIS INDUSTRY?
I had no interest in becoming a hairdresser until I saw a picture of Vidal Sassoon cutting Mia Farrow’s hair on the film set of Rosemary’s Baby. When I held a pair of scissors and looked at my hands I wanted to belong to this unique community of specialists, who on seeing my movements in haircutting just might say, “Now that’s a person who knows exactly what they are doing” Well that was my dream when I first ventured into the art and craft of hairdressing. I loved cutting hair and felt more comfortable holding a pair of scissors than any other hairdressing tool. 16
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
“Being a rebel is about challenging the status quo, seeing things differently, and always having a belief.”
WAS YOUR ARTISTIC VISION AND TALENT OBVIOUS TO YOU RIGHT FROM THE START?
From an early age I have always been interested in the arts, I wanted to go to art college when I left school, but my father thought it would be a good idea to enroll me in a friend’s hair salon because he was a tailor and to him, there was an art to being a pattern cutter. He saw a connection between pattern cutting and cutting hair and, the rest is history. I’ve never considered myself as just a hairdresser; for me hair was an art project. It is my love of the arts that has steered my evolution into photography, film, contemporary art, and poetry. I look at life as one big art project, and I get an opportunity
to write a verse and share it with whoever will listen.
TALK US THROUGH THE SHIFT THAT OCCURRED FOR YOU IN THE 70’S IN TERNS OF HAIR.
A good friend of mine called Charles said to me one day, “Robert, you always say how much you love doing art, so, why don’t you think differently and do hair how an artist would do hair”. Just think about hair as a piece of fabric, a fibre that you can coerce into any shape or form you want. At first, I thought he was mad, but after a couple of weeks I started to establish that thought process and suddenly everything changed for me. I started to weave hair, and manipulate hair into any shape or form. I was now looking at hair as a medium that had never been seen before, which was the start of a revolution in the world of hairdressing.
SHARE WITH US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR ORIGINAL TIME AS ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR SEBASTIAN.
What I learnt in the early days of working with the founders of Sebastian was that it was incredibly important to have a belief, a philosophy that had the ability to drive ideas. We were never just creating work, we were a group of individuals who came together as a collective with a story to tell that had a passion for expressing those ideas. We believed we had a chance to revolutionize our industry and inspire new audiences. John and Geri taught me the art of juxtaposition: taking inspiration from different cultures and fusing them together, and going against the grain of convention. They gave me the wings to
express my own uniqueness in inventing the image of Sebastian You’ve recently been invited to return to Sebastian again after a 10-year break, as Creative Visionary. What will this role involve? I think my role is to help the brand to see, think, and act differently in whatever we create, whether it’s a product, a haircut, a film, a photograph or the written word. The work that results is an expression of what Sebastian should stand for; ultimately the message should carry our beliefs and our thumb print. If what we create is to be successful, it has to have honesty and integrity, but most of all it has to have soul, and it’s the soul of our brand that will ultimately touch our audience.
HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE RETURNING TO THE BRAND THAT WAS ONCE SO MUCH A PART OF YOUR LIFE?
It feels like going back to a house I lived in several years ago, everything has changed, and I am still trying to navigate my way round a new lay out.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE ON HOW YOUNG STYLISTS CAN DEVELOP THEIR OWN UNIQUE STYLE OF ARTISTRY?
Experiment! Every mistake we make leads us to a new creative adventure. You are never going to please everyone. Some people will love what you do and others won’t. Listen to your instincts, and always be inspired to create something that comes from within. Try not to feel the pressure to follow others, which I know can be difficult, but once you find your own cont’d over page
cont’d from page 17
style, and learn to trust in yourself, you will then find a way to make it relevant to all those around you. Last but not least, tenacity is the dark side of creativity, the distant relation of grit and hustle. Without tenacity, drive and devotion to making something happen, you might just end up average, so don’t be afraid to ask for help. And remember this: never let the noise of other people’s opinions drown out your own inner voice.
WHAT FUELS YOUR ‘REBELLIOUS’ ATTITUDE?
I think when you stand up for what you believe in, you have a chance to change people’s perspectives, and with that you might just change how this industry evolves. Being a rebel is about challenging the status quo, seeing things differently, and always having a belief. Having a rebellious attitude causes us all to invent new methodologies, new ways of seeing and doing. The method I work within is only useful until it leads me to a new one, and you can only get to a new method by rebelling against the old one.
HAS THIS APPROACH CREATED CHALLENGES FOR YOU?
Yes, when you challenge people on a continual basis to come up with ideas that change existing thought processes, you can sometimes push people beyond their limits. The key is to understand fully the capabilities of whom you are challenging in the pursuit of excellence.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR INVOLVEMENT WITH SHH! AND WHAT YOU LOVE ABOUT THIS CONCEPT OF EDUCATION
Our idea behind Shh! is to give a platform to the people who have contributed and changed the landscape of contemporary hair culture. For me Shh! is a movement; it’s the work of many artists all connected, who seek out other likeminded people who share a similar thought process for something more individual. It is encouraging that manufacturers in Australia have supported the concept of Shh! as a movement without the insistence of branding. The teams involved come from all parts of the world; some are affiliated with brands and some are independent, but all of them are first class educators and inspire the audience with their charismatic style.
CAN YOU SHARE WITH US YOUR THOUGHTS AROUND FEAR AND HOW TO TURN THIS INTO A POSITIVE?
We all have the power to change our present predicament. The only thing holding us back is fear of failure. Not easy to admit but essential to understand. I believe a lot of us choose not to take the remarkable path for fear of criticism, which can be a very powerful deterrent. For 18
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me the criticism doesn’t have to actually occur for the fear to set in, you can almost feel it. The lesson here is simple; if you had come up with an idea that was safe, there would be no criticism, no debates. The cuts, colour, services, concepts, strategies, or any unusual idea that comes to mind, are the ones that are worth talking about, these are the remarkable ones. So, the challenge is this: as we contemplate our next opportunity to be safe or remarkable, you have to ask yourself this, If the only side effect is being criticized, you need to compare that bad feeling with the absolute benefits you will receive from doing something that makes a difference. Being remarkable is exciting, fun, wild, unpredictable, great for your career, and even profitable. Feeling bad wears off, so once you compare the bad feeling and the benefits, you should now be sold on the idea of always taking the remarkable path.
IF YOU COULD LEAVE THE INDUSTRY WITH ONE THING AS A RESULT OF YOUR WORK, WHAT WOULD THAT BE?
We all want to leave a legacy. I have a yearning to pass on the meaning of what I have been doing these past 40+ years. We all want to be recognized for our contribution. I think that I have always been revered as the hairdresser that began the art of avant-garde hair. But also for evolving into other mediums, photography, contemporary art, collage, film and poetry. I would like to think that I have inspired many hairdressers to venture into other fields of the arts. As far as leaving a legacy is concerned, I think that will be determined on the outcome of the book I am starting to work on.
TWISTED A/W 2017
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INFINITE STYLING THIS CHRISTMAS
Create limitless styles this Christmas with the latest innovative tools from ghd
hristmas is all about giving those presents that someone will love. Seeing the smile on their face is what the festive season is all about. And this year, ghd has it all wrapped up with a host of special NOCTURNE gift sets for your clients to give to family and friends – or even treat themselves!
ghd air® professional hairdryer & ghd V® gold styler gift set
ghd platinum® styler gift set
As an added cup of Christmas cheer, celebrate with gorgeous glossy hair thanks to the ghd advanced split end therapy limited edition bauble.
To find out how ghd can boost your Christmas business contact your ghd account manager or call 07 3218 4400
3 TIPS FOR CHRISTMAS
Start promoting Christmas events in the salon now. Organise your festive stock and create social media posts letting your clients know that you have Christm as sorted on their behalf. Create special offers for the events that make it worth-while for clients to buy into a concept.
Be Brave! Create a display that suggests Christmas. Donâ€™t festoon the salon with fairy lights, but create a retail area that clearly indicates the goodies on show that would make perfect presents.
Use your social media platforms to create a story that stars building awareness of your Christmas offerings. Tempt your clients with ideas that they simply canâ€™t refuse!
10 Mins with
KEVIN MURPHY With a long career spanning fashion, runway, editorial and film, Kevin Murphy is one of the worlds most respected and sought-after Hairstylists. His work has graced the covers of all the major global print publications and he has directed hair teams for countless high-profile fashion houses all around the world. Iconic magazine, Vogue, credited Kevin Murphy as being the one who invented the iconic “beach hair” look so popular today.
Recognised internationally for his long list of celebrity clientele, the Melbourne born hair stylist began his styling days as an apprentice in a Queensland salon before heading to London to train at Vidal Sassoon. He has an international profile that has seen him work with leading fashion photographers including Patrick Demarchelier, Robert Erdman and Richard Bailey and has created styles for international editions of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Sports Illustrated swimsuit edition, Marie Claire, Vanity Fair, InStyle, Rush, GQ, among others. Kevin has also lent his talent to the cinema, with work on Baz Luhrmann”s Moulin Rouge, and has styled celebrities including Cate Blanchett, Naomi Watts, Selma Blair, Kylie Minogue, Dannii Minogue, Claudia Karvan, Enrique Iglesias, Miranda Kerr, and many, many more. Keen to learn the story of this Aussie dominating global markets, Hair Biz Editor, Kym Krey spoke with Kevin recently.
TELL US WHAT YOU DO IN THE INDUSTRY TODAY
Today I’m sitting in a hotel in Ibiza Spain. We just had our European Meeting with all the companies who distribute our products as well 22
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as all the sales people. It was a great week where I presented all the new products. Tomorrow I’m off to Dublin to present all the new hairstyles to 250 Irish hairdressers. Following that, I fly to Cape Town to do a Look-and-Learn shoot in front of another group of hairdressers. So really, most of the time I’m travelling doing “show and tell” which was my fondest memory of school life.
HOW, AND WHERE, DID YOU FIRST GET INVOLVED IN THE INDUSTRY?
I was at school and was never really that interested on going to university. I had always secretly wanted to be hairdresser but the teachers at the school had advised against it. They said I would be throwing my life away and my response to them was, “I wanted to be the best hairdresser in the world” which was of course not a realistic goal! They thought I was too much of a dreamer and should stay at school to ground myself a bit better. But I didn’t. I left
school at 15 to follow my dream, became an apprentice at Jon le Court in Brisbane, which was a great start. It made me realise I was in the right job but not in the right city at that time. I moved to Melbourne where I was from and there was more of a fashion scene at that time. It was the early 80’s and Melbourne’s club and fashion scene was booming.
YOU’VE HAD AN INCREDIBLY EXTENSIVE CAREER ACROSS FASHION, RUNWAY, EDITORIAL AND FILM STYLING. HOW DID YOU CAREER EVOLVE INTO THESE AREAS?
That happened by accident. As an apprentice, I
“I had always secretly wanted to be a hairdresser but my teachers at school advised against it.” was always going to hair shows and any touring hairdressers that were coming to town, we always offered up our help to pass pins or wash colour bowls to gain any sort of experience we could. This was in the days where there was no internet, no camera phones, no social media, so we were starving for things to look and see and get ideas. I had a friend of mine who was a model and she was having some new test shots done. She asked me to come and do the hair. It was a hoot! I had so much fun and was able to showcase all the ideas I had collected from hair show and ideas that I got from hairdressers who came from London to Melbourne to do hair shows. There was one at least once a month at a place in Melbourne called Leonda and everybody from every salon went. The photographer asked me to come back and just hang out at the studio, which was a very exciting time for mea young hairdresser surrounded by models and makeup artists. I got the taste for and that was the one turning point for me
YOU ARE CREDITED WITH INVENTING THE BEACH HAIR LOOK; ONE OF THE STRONGEST CURRENT STYLING TRENDS. TELL US THE STORY OF HOW THAT CAME ABOUT.
Beach hair in photography at that time was just wet hair and it was kind of stringy looking; there was no volume to it. Growing up at the beach, I knew that girls loved the look of their hair when they had the sun, the salt, sand and the dry wind that made the hair dry very fast. I began to experiment with powders in my gel to make them dry fast and this created a thickening effect. Then one day we had a flood on the beach where we were shooting and all
the makeup artists’ eye shadow was mixed up in my hair gel. A light bulb went off in my head and I saw the sun and the dry texture I needed in that jar and that day, on a beach in Malaysia, beach hair was born. It was at the “sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition 2000” with Daniela Pestova on the cover.
WHAT IMPACT DID YOUR TIME AT VIDAL SASSOON HAVE ON YOUR EARLY CAREER?
Vidal Sassoon showed me great precision haircutting techniques that I will carry with me all my life. It gave me the discipline to create the perfect haircut every time. It also made me think that there is another life out there. When attending the school, there were many pictures of short, strong geometric cuts and original ideas but amongst them were some looks that were free and curly and big. I was very interested in those looks by Ray Allington. He was Vidal Sassoon’s session hairdresser and worked with long hair and natural texture with only his hands. I wanted to be that sort of hairdresser. So even though I learned a lot at Sassoon, my real inspiration was Ray Allington.
YOU’VE STYLED THE LOCKS OF SO MANY FAMOUS ACTRESSES INCLUDING, NAOMI WATTS, KYLIE AND DANNI MINOGUE, HEIDI KLUM AND MORE. DO YOU HAVE A PARTICULAR FAVOURITE OR A FUNNY STORY TO SHARE? The thing about working with celebrities is they are just the same as every other client. They have their insecurities; they have their faults and they don’t always have great hair. The relationship between them is the same as a client - you see them at their most vulnerable. For that reason, the hairdresser never kisses and tells.
WHAT INSPIRED YOUR ENTRY INTO THE WORLD OF PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND HOW DID
THE KEVIN.MURPHY PRODUCT RANGE COME INTO BEING?
In the late 90’s, my time was split between working in the salon and on set. I couldn’t find products that were lightweight enough to use on photoshoots where we needed to do several looks across the day. So back in the salon, I created my first product – a blend of lavender crème, body lotion and setting lotion. This was the first version of EASY.RIDER and it was an instant hit for my clients as well as my ultimate styling product on set. In 2004, I partnered with Peter McDonald and created the KEVIN.MURPHY range which began as a seven products.
TELL US ABOUT THE UNIQUE PHILOSOPHY OF THE KEVIN. MURPHY RANGE.
The range was born out of a “skincare for your hair” philosophy. Every product we create is designed to perform while still being weightless in the hair. In order to achieve this, we use ingredients that synonymous with the skincare industry. For example, moisturisers like Mango and Murumuru butters smooth cuticles and soften the hair when incorporated into hair care products. We also use ingredients rich in antioxidants which reduce breakage and repair chemical damage naturally.
WHAT ACHIEVEMENT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF IN YOUR LIFE OR CAREER?
That’s a hard question. To be honest, my proudest achievement is seeing the KEVIN. MURPHY range loved by so many talented hairdressers and fantastic salons in Australia and internationally. It’s what motivates me to keep growing the brand. Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
IND US TRY
Hair: Chris Foster Photography: Desmond Murray MUA: Stefanija Vektere
SACAHJUAN AND FASHION FOR A CURE RAISE $75000 FOR BREAST CANCER Sachajuan recently completed the 2nd leg of a 4 city New Zealand tour for Breast Cancer Cure’s cause #fashionforacure as hair sponsor, with the event raising over $75,000. The all-Christchurch hair team was led by Janine Jansen and supported by Marque Morehu, Jamie Mohi, April Cross and Mikaela Wright. Reverse braids with undone texture were the hair focus, created by a collective assortment of Sachajuan’s results driven styling products. www.sachajuan.com.au
DCI EDUCATION LAUNCH 2018 MENTOR & ELEVATE PROGRAMS
Award winning DCI Education are excited to launch the 2018 Mentor & Elevate Programs for Sydney, Wollongong, Newcastle, Canberra, Melbourne, Perth, Adelaide, Brisbane North Queensland & Auckland. The 2018 Mentor Program is designed to bring a new direction in haircutting and styling. DCI’s unique techniques and methodology will inspire you to lift your haircutting game to another level with a fresh new approach in haircutting. You will gain confidence and consistency with progressive cutting skills plus learn the very best client engagement and communication techniques, to help your work be understood and respected. The 2018 Mentor Program is highly recommended for stylists, high achieving apprentices & seniors looking for inspiration. Due to industry demand, DCI will be running their very successful Classic Course throughout Australia & New Zealand, as the new “Elevate Program” in 2018. www.dcieducation.com
NERGISH WADIAAUSTIN RETURNS TO PHAB STANDARD After a five-year sabbatical, CEO and Founder of the PHAB Standard, Nergish WadiaAustin, will be returning to her training roots. Nergish will be providing an updated curriculum of training courses for hair & beauty salon, spa, nail-bar and barbershop managers. To ensure the validity of her courses, Nergish has spent the last 3 months in salons, spas and barbershops in the UK and Europe, to find out exactly what sort of hurdles hair & beauty businesses face today and has designed her programs to address these needs. www.phabstandard.com
AMAZING HAIR WELCOMES KOBI BOKSHISH TO AMBASSADOR TEAM Amazing Hair is thrilled to welcome multi-award-winning Kobi Bokshish of Sydney’s Intershape Hair Design to their esteemed team of brand ambassadors. Master hairstylist, platform artist and design team member for Matrix Australia, Kobi’s innovation and highly regarded hair fashion work align perfectly with the Amazing Hair brand ethos. The variety available within the Amazing Hair range allows the easy creation of length, additional non-committal colour, volume and movement, and the colour range includes pop colours, pastels, balayage and clean blondes, proving that hair extensions are also a coveted fashion accessory. www.amazinghair.com.au
FOIL ME LAUNCHES ‘PINK DAY’ TO SUPPORT BREAST CANCER AWARENESS In addition to supporting breast cancer awareness by making a donation from each box of their iconic #1-selling Pink Knobel and Knobel Wides sold during October to the National Breast Cancer Foundation, Australia’s pre-cut foil company, Foil Me encouraged salons and offices to go ‘PINK’ on October 18th. Undeniably one of the most virulent forms of cancer – one in 8 women (and approximately one in 700 men) will be diagnosed with breast cancer in their lifetime – it was the perfect fit for the Foil Me team to utilise their pink foils to give back to the community and instigate their own initiative to take their fundraising efforts to the next level. As an extra incentive, those salons who supported the initiative went into the draw to receive a complimentary day with brand ambassador Sheree Knobel in her ‘Shadow Program’ where Sheree teaches the lucky winner all her tips and tricks as they ‘shadow’ her for the day. www.foilme.com.au
MUK HAIRCARE WINS 14 BEAUTYHAVEN AWARDS Muk Haircare is excited to announce it has won fourteen beautyheaven. com.au Best in Beauty Awards. The leading Australian brand won thirteen out of eighteen awards in the female grooming section and one in the male grooming category, with the winning products including a number of the brand’s top selling products past and present. The BeautyHeaven awards, or Glosscars, are voted by the public from newlylaunched products submitted by leading beauty brands. www.mukhair.com
EAT NOW FOUNDERS LAUNCH BOOKWELL, MENULOG FOR BEAUTY
The founders of the highly successful EatNow announce their next milliondollar venture Bookwell, the Menulog for beauty and wellness, that will bring greater convenience and booking ease to the beauty and wellness sector. Bookwell aims to address an untapped gap in the $10 billion health, beauty and wellness market in Australia, by allowing beauty and wellness service providers to reach new customers and ensure optimal utilisation of staff by filling empty appointments. For customers, it offers convenience by locating and booking local beauty salons and wellness services instantly through an easy to use platform. Bookwell launches into Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth and Adelaide, with 750 bookable venues nationally and has already shown 20% month on month growth in its pilot stage, which is expected to experientially grow following launch. www.bookwell.com.au
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
WELLA PROFESSIONALS APPOINTS ANDREAS KURKOWITZ AS GLOBAL COLOR AMBASSADOR Young session colourist Andreas Kurkowitz, having already become one of the most influential and sought-after colourists in the fashion world, now joins Wella Professionals as Global Colour Ambassador. Devotees of Kurkowitz’s session colour work include major labels such as Acne, Vetements, Givenchy, Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton, and he regularly shoots for the likes of Love, iD and Vogue. In his new role Kurkowitz will contribute his strong, creative talent to the development of Wella Professionals’ inspirational, seasonal colour trends, alongside helping to train future generations of colourists through Wella Professionals’ extensive colour education program. Dividing his time between his multiple editorial and fashion commitments and his colour studio located in the Mitte area of Berlin, Kurkowitz, regularly collaborates with Wella Professionals’ Global Creative Director, Eugene Souleiman. www.wella.com/wellatrends
2017 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL BUSINESS FORUM A SUCCESS The 2017 L’Oréal Professionnel Business Forum held in Seville, Spain, attracted over 1,500 hairdressers from 50 countries. The epic event showcased the most eradefining hair trends, techniques and the brand’s most recent innovations. The Business Forum also provided an opportunity for hairdressers to network and exchange business initiatives to create salon success. The impressive line-up of Artists included Kinki and Francis Schroembges from the Netherlands, Adam Reed from the UK, Guylaine Martel from Canada, Jeremy Blanc from France, Frank Gambuzza from US and Dylan Bradshaw from Ireland. The stellar Australian contingent included Scott Sloan (Sloans, NSW), Craig Smith (Fruition, Qld) and AHFA ‘Australian Hairdresser Of The Year’ Damien Rinaldo (Boris The Cuttery, SA). With ‘Haircolour is the New Make-Up!’ as the central theme, the mastery of colour ignited this year’s event. The acclaimed masterclasses and workshops focused on how to animate colour services, how to recruit new colour clients, master trending colourful hair and matching perfect colour with perfect cuts. www.lorealprofessionnel.com.au
SSA ANNOUNCED AS 2017 FINALIST IN VICTORIAN PREMIER’S SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS Sustainable Salons Australia has been announced as a finalist in the Innovative Products or Services category for this year’s Premier’s Sustainability Awards for their program which collects waste from hair, beauty and dog grooming salons. The Awards represent Victoria’s highest recognition for sustainability and acknowledge leadership, innovation and achievement. Founded in 2015, Sustainable Salons Australia (SSA) is the first comprehensive resource recovery program designed for hair and beauty salons that rewards salons and gives back to the community, collecting up to 95 per cent of the salon waste bin and redirecting material for reuse, recycling and repurposing solutions. www.sustainabilityawards.vic.gov.au
L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA UNVEILS ITS FLAGSHIP SYDNEY TRAINING ACADEMY L’Oréal Australia’s Professional Products Division (PPD) recently unveiled its flagship Sydney Training Academy in Pyrmont, following a significant revitalisation by Melbourne design leaders Technē Architecture + Interior Design. The multi-dimensional training facility will service the Division’s portfolio of world-class, professional salon brands – L’oréal Professionnel, Redken 5th Avenue NYC, Kérastase, Shu Uemura Art Of Hair, Matrix And Pureology. Showcasing a new ultra-modern fit-out, the expansive site will be utilised to train in excess of 300 aspiring students a week, and support varying education models with flexible learning spaces and state-of-the-art amenities. www. loreal.com
COLOUR TROPHY 2018 RETURNS TO AUSTRALIA Recognised as one of the most prestigious and successful hairdressing events in the world, L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy returns to Australia in 2018. Held across five continents in 37 countries, providing a pivotal stage for emerging talent. Boasting an impressive prize pool including a trip to participate in the international Colour Trophy, the winner will enjoy national exposure and recognition via the event’s esteemed media partner, Marie Claire Australia. With a unique vision that will continue to enthral and propel excellence throughout the industry, the competition will refine colour-work skills, foster business potential, and build credible artistic profiles within the industry and consumer arenas, for enduring career success. www.lorealcolourtrophy.com.au 26
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
AHFA 2018 OPEN FOR ENTRY Entries are now open for the 2018 Australian Hair Fashion Awards to be held on Sunday 15th April 2018 at Sydney’s iconic Luna Park. The AHFA’s celebrate the very best in our incredible industry and represent all that it means to be part of the Australian Hair Fashion world: creativity, hard work, drive, success and beauty. The photographic entries are amongst the highest calibre in the country, the international judges in London are without doubt the best names in the game and the event is not to be missed. www.australianhairfashionawards.com
ROYALS EDUCATION ACADEMY SET TO ELEVATE MINDSETS & SKILLS IN 2018
NEW HEAD JUDGE APPOINTED FOR HAIR EXPO AWARDS 2018 Hair Expo Australia announced several exciting updates to the 2018 Hair Expo Awards to help entrants navigate the submission process and increase the potential benefits gained from crafting their written submissions. Hair Expo Awards judges will receive additional support from new Head Judge, Julie Piantadosi, who will oversee the judging process and act as Hair Expo Awards Ambassador. Julie will be a valuable sounding board to ensure each category’s criteria are met by entrants and that the judging of these criteria is conducted at the highest possible standard. Julie’s expertise and guidance will be of particular value for the written portion of the awards submission, which accounts for 50 per cent of the overall score. www.hairexpoaustralia.com/hair-expo-awards Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
Hair: Chris Foster Photography: Desmond Murray MUA: Stefanija Vektere
Royals Education Academy is set to offer an innovative, industryrelevant 2018 calendar of education and training. The hairdressing industry is constantly evolving and in 2018, Royals Education Academy has committed to focusing on improving the skillsets and technical skills of apprentices and qualified hairdressers. Noticing that many young hairdressers completing their apprenticeships or fulltime programs struggle to execute certain haircuts or lack colour technical skills, Creative Director Mary Alamine, has created a series of workshops to address industry needs and elevate skills of stylists. www.royalshair.com.au/education
A 21st Century Genius
SHAUN C M GRATH Whatever you’re doing right now, you need to stop immediately… and just absorb the astonishing creativity and skill you’re about to witness. This is truly incredible. Quite possibly the Picasso of our time, Shaun McGrath has always erred on the side of quirkiness with his work, blurring the line between hairdressing and sculpture. Sometimes spending weeks patiently building his artworks, Shaun has created wigs using paper planes restyled to become a men’s cut, feathers incorporated with hair to create an amazing antler wig, and thousands of safety pins to sculpt a perfect, classic bob. All completely wearable, the pieces have been included in art exhibitions throughout the UK and featured in prominent hair industry publications around the globe. A dedicated activist for all things sustainable, Shaun selects his materials from items commonly discarded from the salon… and turns them into astonishing works of art. Once she’d recovered her jaw from hitting the floor, Hair Biz Editor Kym Krey tracked down this amazing artist to learn what inspires his work.
COULD YOU DESCRIBE FOR OUR READERS WHAT YOU LOVE TO DO?
As complicated as it can get, it all begins with a love for the artistry of hairdressing and a deconstruction of boundaries that shouldn’t exist. Here is how I describe hairdressing: If our canvas is the head and we can, in some way, represent a “hairline”, well now we are hairdressing. The “fabric” whilst traditionally hair, can be replaced by anything and I mean ANYTHING. Ok, now what if that anything was something that usually ended up in landfill? We are now creating hair art whilst delivering a message about recycling and specifically for me in the hair and beauty industries, that’s what I love to do.
HOW WERE YOU DRAWN TO SUCH A FASCINATING FORM OF ARTISTRY?
I’ve never been a huge fan of art theory, so I try not to question myself about why I’m here and what I’m doing. I am inspired by the things I see every day and then I rely on my loose grasp of physics and knowing how
to find a positive collective aesthetic whilst grouping duplicates of form (sounds like hair right?). As far as being inspired beyond that goes, we live in a very lucky time; anyone can access art anywhere, Pinterest, instagram, it’s all on there somewhere, but the best way for me is to just head outside and open my eyes.
WAS SUSTAINABILITY ALWAYS SUCH A STRONG MOTIVATING FORCE FOR YOU AND YOUR WORK?
Motivation 1 - My favourite thing to do growing up and still now, is to immerse myself in nature, and over the years I have watched the human effects on those areas through urban sprawl and carelessness with how we manage our waste. The results aren’t amazing, and we all need to help undo what we as a society have created, by taking rubbish with you to make the areas you enjoy better, and maybe even create something with what you collect. Motivation 2 - As I grew as a Avant Garde specialist I found opportunity in discarded items and I was able to create provocative hair works that cost me next to nothing, which as a young hairdresser can be very useful. This concept has just grown and grown as an art form. It’s become me.
WHAT MATERIALS HAVE YOU USED TO CREATE SOME OF YOUR AMAZING PIECES?
I like to set some rules for myself and for my clients, and when it comes to materials, that rule is anything goes. It’s very much part of the challenge of what I do; finding an item to manipulate into “hair”- a lot of the time that item is hair and recycled hair at that, collected from the salon floor… renewable and free. Other items come from everyday waste… unfortunately too renewable, but free. I spend time looking at biproducts of industry; there is often something interesting created from the manufacture of another and this can occur multiple times from the same source item. Over the years there has been many items outside of this too: coins, shoes, lipstick, meat, glass, parts of a demolished house, clocks, paper planes… really anything goes.
WHAT IS THE MOST AVANT GARDE PIECE YOU’VE EVER CREATED?
Avant Garde for me describes invitation in method and aesthetic but remaining beautiful and I think the 4 weeks I spent braiding hair into lavender was that- and I’m not a braider to start with either! It’s one of those jobs I’d much prefer to give to a kid who’s watched a lot of YouTube tutorials, but on that occasion, I knew what I wanted to achieve and I made sure I did it.
YOUR WORK IS BEING NOTICED AROUND THE GLOBE. TELL US ABOUT SOME OF THE EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES YOU’VE HAD.
I wasn’t far out of my apprenticeship when I decided to get up and move to the other side the world and I looked at that as an opportunity to find my niche, or more like find the right people to help me achieve the vision I had for my work. Coming home to Australia after seven years away, that was an opportunity. Wherever I have been in the world, my opportunities have come through people who believe I can create something truly unique, whether that work was onstage through the UK/IRE the US and Australia, or through magazines, advertising and amazing imagery, or the 3 amazing salons I have called home in my career - the opportunities have always become a reality because of people.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR EARLY YEAR IN THE INDUSTRY. YOU STARTED OUT WITH THE FABULOUS ANTHONY NADER. WHAT WERE THOSE YEARS LIKE?
I started hairdressing quite late; I was 23 years old. I had bunch of jobs but none of which meant too much to me, and I loved the idea of creating art every day and making a living of it, so hair seemed perfect. But at the grand old age of 23, I needed to needed to hurry up, so I set my sights on a job at one of the country’s most prestigious salons: Raw Anthony Nader. As well as learning every day in-salon, part of our incentive to be better was the photo shoots we would attend, the catwalk shows we’d be involved in and the insight into the pointy edge of our industry. It was a tough apprenticeship, but I’m glad it was. The thing I reflect on most from my time with Anthony though, was after every training night as an apprentice, we would sit down and analyse a campaign image. These sessions really developed my eye for beauty and has been something I’ve used every day since. cont’d over page Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
cont’d from page 29
I was the first apprentice ever to qualify at Raw; something I will always be super proud of.
AND YOU’RE NOW WITH THE STEVIE ENGLISH TEAM. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR ROLE THERE?
Those of you who know the Stevie English brand know that it’s a little different! We don’t go to work for a hard day’s labour; we go there to have fun. We are colourful, loud, and our clients love that; we love that. I am the salon’s creative specialist (surprise, surprise!) and I have a wonderful collection of clients who come in and let me turn them into art. Whether that is through the creation of a beautiful line or an ambitious colour palette, I always want it to be uniquely them. I have the support of an amazing team, all of us eager to see our colleagues succeed. Stevie & Mel have created a salon culture like no other and I’m thrilled to be a member of #teamenglish.
WHAT HAVE BEEN SOME OF YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?
Well, first of all, this interview with Hair Biz! But there have been a few others too. My two Global Session appearances in California are things I’ll remember until Alzheimer’s well and truly kicks in! It gave me a global platform and I met a lot of inspiring people who still inspire me today. The appointment as Creative Ambassador of Sustainable Salons Australia. The Wing Assignment Exhibitions in London. My recent work with Sydney Fringe Festival and Broadway. I mentioned this interview with Hair Biz, right?
HOW DID YOU ORIGINALLY GET INVOLVED WITH SUSTAINABLE SALONS?
Sustainable Salons started around the same time I started at Stevie English Hair, and it was a program that we were starting insalon. So, this curly haired bloke came in to tell us what it was about and how we were going to use it. Now anyone who has heard Paul talk about sustainable salons, the work they do, and what they aim to achieve for the future must be inspired; I know I was! It was something that aligned so well with my core values and my art so often involves recycled salon waste, so it made so much sense to become a part of this. And about a year later we gave it a title.
CAN YOU DESCRIBE FOR US YOUR ROLE AT SSA?
My role at SSA is to have fun. I make salon waste into beautiful hair-inspired creations and then these creations become a way to interact visually with the hair, beauty & dog grooming industries, to highlight what we can do better for our planet
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
WHAT IS YOUR MISSION OR WHAT HAVE YOU SET OUT TO ACHIEVE THROUGH YOUR CAREER? I keep coming back to the same point: it’s all about fun, that’s the mission. Not enough people love what they do. The day I’m not having fun is the day my career is over.
IF YOU HADN’T CHOSEN HAIR, CAN YOU IMAGINE ANOTHER CAREER YOU MIGHT HAVE CHOSEN? I spent some time many, many years ago working as a bush regenerator. That was something I really enjoyed. I was able to spend a lot of time just hanging out in nature. If I wasn’t a hairdresser I’d be doing that.
SHAUN, YOU’VE HAD THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY IDEA TO ADORN OUR TABLES AT THE ABIA AWARDS- GETTING TAFE STUDENTS TO MAKE ROSE CENTREPIECES OUT OF OLD BEAUTY BIZ MAGAZINES. HOW WAS THAT THOUGHT INSPIRED?
I believe that the most beautiful things in our visual world come from nature, so nature is often an inspiration of mine. When I was asked to create a centrepiece for the ABIA Awards, my mind went straight to flowers, but these flowers had to carry a message, a message about recycling and what better way to do that than to recycle Beauty Biz Magazines? The kids from visual merchandising at TAFE did an amazing job at recreating the centre pieces 50 times! I love TAFE!
IF YOU COULD LEAVE THE INDUSTRY WITH ONE LEGACY, WHAT WOULD THAT BE? If you want a career with boundaries….. go into fencing.
WHAT’S LEFT ON YOUR BUCKET LIST TO ACHIEVE, SHAUN? Well, when Paul Frasca gets his Tesla, I want to turn his Prius into a wig!
2018 ARE YOU THE 2018 FASHIONISTA?
Is Session or editorial work your passion?? Prove your fashion credentials! We want to know about the projects you’ve worked on, the shows you’ve styled, where your work has been published, the photographers and designers you’ve collaborated with and the high profile clients on your speed dial! Prove you are destined for greatness.
ARE YOU THE 2018 VISIONARY?
Are you at the cutting edge of creativity? Do you see things differently? This category gives you the chance to showcase your unique artistic skills as well as your distinctive style and experimental nature. Show us your innovative collection and prove you are destined for greatness.
Prize Packages worth $1000’s thanks to our wonderful sponsors, not to mention an invitation to stay in the infamous HOT SHOTS HOUSE and spend time with international and national icons
Are you a female hairdresser who excels in all areas of hairdressing? Is your style unique, your passion unparalleled and your vision clear? Prove you are destined for greatness.
PLUS A TEAM PHOTO SHOOT WITH AWARD WINNING CREATIVE DIRECTOR, PHOTOGRAPHER, MUA AND STYLIST!
ARE YOU THE 2018 RISING STAR MALE?
Are you a male hairdresser who excels in all areas of hairdressing? Is your style unique, your passion unparalleled and your vision clear? Prove you are destined for greatness. Criteria: YOU MUST BE UNDER THE AGE OF 30 ON JANUARY 1ST 2018 TO BE ELIGIBLE TO ENTER THIS AWARD You are only eligible to enter One HOT SHOTS Category. Previous winners are unable to enter. Previous finalists are able to enter.
Image By Cherie Falco, 2017 HOTSHOTS Team
ARE YOU THE 2018 RISING STAR FEMALE?
AHIA 2017 Apprentice of the Year
LOUISE WILLIAMSON STEVIE ENGLISH HAIR
Rising star and AHIA Apprentice of the Year, Louise Williamson hasn’t Louise Williamson always wanted to be a hairdresser. Starting out as a makeup artist, she realised that she wanted so much more, so took a big leap into the world of hairdressing commencing an apprenticeship with the crew at Stevie English hair just under 3 years ago. Says Louise, “This has been the most amazing career change for me to date. What I love about hairdressing is that I get to work with amazing talented people who are supportive in every way!” Constantly problem-solving with each client and being able to give them confidence and boost their self-esteem is what Louise finds incredibly rewarding, and what she believes is ‘the biggest gift you can give to a person but also a big responsibility’. Hoping to complete her apprenticeship ahead of schedule and continue to build her clientele 32
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will keep Louise busy in the short term but beyond that, she has her sights set on editorial, film and television work. Despite only being full time on the salon floor since September, Louise regularly hits her KPIs, holds the salon record for retail sales and is on track to progress from ‘New Talent’ to ‘Stylist’ level by February! Her commitment to training includes a 3-hour in-salon training session each week and numerous external workshops and events including Balayage Masterclass, Colour Basics and Advanced Colour Techniques, Creative Colour, Advanced Styling Masterclass, Basic Cutting and Cutting Mastery. Earlier this year, Louise was fortunate to assist Lauren McCowan on a shoot for the day and walked away with not only an incredible amount of knowledge, but also huge inspiration
and a new role model. Says Louise, “Working with Lauren made me realise that what I love most about the industry is education. My goal is to work with our senior team and become a trainer. I watch Stevie educate all over the world for Matrix, and I aspire to do this one day also. I would love to pass on the skills and knowledge that has been so generously given to me”. She’s also worked on both ‘The Voice’ and ‘X-Factor’, assisted on ‘The Real Housewives of Sydney’, met industry icons Jamie Stevens and Richard Kavanagh and been chosen for the Matrix H.O.T Team! Watch this space! We’re sure to see a lot more of this talented young lady.
AHIA 2017 Salon Stylist of the Year
LESLIE HENSHAW With a strong commitment to performing at his best, it’s easy to see why Leslie Henshaw was named AHIA Salon Stylist of the Year. With an ever-growing loyal client base and a rebooking rate of 77.8%, Leslie is in demand and a consistently high-performing stylist and colourist. Showing his dedication to being the best he can be, Leslie holds a Cert 4 in Small Business Management, a Diploma of Salon Management, a Cert 4 in Hairdressing, a Cert 4 in Training and Assessment as well as a Cert 2 in Information Technology.
2017 AHIA Salon Stylist of the Year Leslie Henshaw sponsored by Matrix
Recognised as a Finalist for Hotshots New Rising Star (2016), AHFA ACT/NSW Hairdresser of the Year (2016) and Hair Expo New Creative Force (2015), Leslie features consistently among the industry’s best during awards season. He has completed more than 140 photo shoots and his work has been published 96 times internationally and more than 100 times around Australia. His latest collection, ‘Chromatophores’, was published 42 times around the globe as, including in Passion magazine, artCoiffure Russia and Disconnect. Leslie is an in-demand session stylist having styled for eight published fashion editorials and his work has appeared twice on the cover of Her Canberra Magazine. He’s no slouch on the runway either having styled shows for Wayne Cooper and FASHFEST, Canberra’s red- carpet fashion show. And when he’s not styling for glamorous events, you’ll find Leslie traipsing around the country, delivering his Look ‘N’ Learn sessions in places like Brisbane, Canberra, Dubbo, Launceston, Melbourne, Perth, Sydney With a resume as extensive as his, many might become complacent, but Leslie is always keen to quench his thirst for knowledge and
improvement and so assists industry icons whenever he can, such as Alan White, Renya Xydis, Sophie Roberts and Lorna Evans as well as Unite international artists David Fletcher and Estevan Garner. In one of the most rewarding experiences of his career to date, Leslie volunteered for Hair Aid, training low-income individuals in the Philippines in the skills of haircutting, enabling them to lift themselves and their families out of poverty by earning an income using their new-found skills. Also understanding the importance of developing the next generation of stylists and colourists, Leslie makes a point of taking salon staff with him when travelling interstate to shows and events to provide opportunities for them to grow. Whilst shoots and shows are always amazing experiences, Leslie believes that his most important skill is still his ability to communicate expertly with the client in his salon chair. His consultation technique includes an analysis
of their face shape, skin tone, hair type, hair colour, haircut, personality type, texture and maintenance requirements. He’ll discuss the latest styles and seasonal trends, encourage clients to try new things, but never pushing so hard that a client feels uncomfortable. Throughout the haircut, he’ll carefully explain what he’s doing and why, confirming understanding along the way to ensure each client is delighted with the end result. Congratulations Leslie Henshaw, AHIA Salon Stylist of the Year 2017! Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
AHIA 2017 Salon Manager/Co-Ordinator of the Year
KELCIE MURRAY DARE HAIR
2017 AHIA Salon manager of the Year Kelcie Murray sponsored by Wella
Strength, confidence, organisation and flexibility. These are the skills required to be an outstanding Salon Coordinator and they’re traits that Dare Hair’s Kelcie Murray has in spades. Tasked with ensuring the saloon’s client experience is exceptional, Kelcie’s job description is, as she describes it, ‘the length of the Nile!’. Says Kelcie, “I ensure clients are well looked after by our stylists and the stylists are well looked after by me”. Her day starts with a HUGE deep breath at 8.50am as she prepares the salon for the busy day ahead. Client histories printed? Check. Appropriate music playing? Done. Fashion channel on? Sorted. It’s literally ‘lights, camera, ACTION!’ Watching her appointment page like a hawk, Kelcie ensures the smooth running of the schedule like a conductor leading an orchestra, handling any issues with grace and discretion along the way. Between calls, messages and emails, she will liaise with suppliers to coordinate stock for upcoming promotions, 34
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produce reports for owners Paul and Rachel Dare to review salon productivity, client retention, budgets and staff progression and organise client packs, mail outs and salon procedure documentation. She’s also the promotional department, networking with local businesses and charities and planning events to promote the brand and works closely with the salon’s Multimedia Company, learning new ways to keep the business current in the cyber world. In addition to Salon Co-ordinator, I am also Paul Dare’s personal assistant with Dare Corporation and Dare Education. Over the last year Paul and I have worked on amalgamating the three entities. These companies together create a much stronger brand. Tasks that come up throughout the day may include writing articles for promotion, website management,
social media, liaising with other salons and organising ‘Cut like a Master’ courses. Being a qualified hairdresser gives me great insight to the role of Salon Co-ordinator, supporting staff when necessary. A valuable asset to the business, her passion and drive for the industry is second to none and she has been rewarded with the role of her dreams. As well as managing the salon, Kelcie still cares for a small clientele to keep her up-to-date with the demands of being on the floor and has the freedom to be involved in photo-shoots, competitions and educational courses- all the fun stuff! “I love working on the business side of the salon. In my early years, I was unaware that there was more to hairdressing than being behind the chair. I feel very lucky to have landed the role I have today and to have been mentored by highly professional and humble people. I look forward to what my future brings. As Paul always says, ‘Success starts with the second letter’
AHIA 2017 Franchised Salon
TONI AND GUY NEWTOWN AHIA Franchised Salon of the Year, Toni and Guy Newtown has established itself as a creative hub and an excellent example of their brand’s values. However, after 13 years in business and among heavy competition, it was time to evaluate and refocus with the aim of elevating their presence, not only in their local area but also within their group and the industry overall. This focus paid dividends, with significant growth in their customer base as well as several accolades and awards to acknowledge their success. Artistic Director, Lea-Ann Suthern, who has worked with the brand for 19 years both in Australia and the UK, was named ‘City of Sydney’s Business Person of the Year’, recognised by the NSW Parliament with a Certificate of Appreciation for her contribution to small business and named Sydney’s Inner West Business Person of the year. They have been recognised as an ACON ‘Safe Place’ for several years which is respected by both clients and the local community, their business is friendly and free from discrimination of any kind, and their gold status as an AHC Salon Select salon conveys to clients that they have achieved the highest standards in all aspects of the industry. 2016 was an outstanding year for the team with a finalist placing in the AHFA Newcomer of the Year category and a coveted place on the 2016 F.A.M.E team. But it hasn’t always been smooth sailing for Toni and Guy Newtown. Says Lea-Ann, ‘2015 was a real learning curve for our salon. We were slowly dropping on all of our KPI targets
2017 AHIA Best Franchised Salon Toni&Guy Newtown sponsored by muk haircare
and were struggling to find the right mix of apprentices, senior and front of house staff. To really focus on the problem, we had a whole salon meeting where we closed the salon for the day, so all staff could contribute to ideas on how we could gain back lapsed clients, entice clients to purchase more retail and really work on our culture from the ground up. As a result, we were rewarded in 2016 with growth of just under 7% in profitability and were aiming for 10% growth year on year by the end of June 2017. From a position where all staff were presenting with below-target KPIs, all now sit consistently above the KPI targets required. Opening in 2003, with 12 stations, the salon quickly outgrew the space and in 2007 and second floor was added. Now, with 18 stations over a floor space of 165sqm, the salon boasts a dedicated colour specialist area which doubles as a training space for our staff.
waste and recycling. ‘In 2013, our salon was part of a pilot program in the local Newtown area where businesses were asked to collect a weeks-worth of rubbish and not throw it away, so they could see exactly what could be recycled or reused to reduce landfill. To see firsthand how much rubbish was collected was quite distressing and from that moment on we vowed to make a change how our salon operated’ said Lea-Anne. In 2016, the salon was awarded with The AHC Sustainability Champion Urban Salon of the year, which Lea-Anne says was an incredibly proud moment for the team. But with all of these honours, the team will never lose sight of their core reason for being which is to be at the forefront of fashion trends and techniques, as their brand represents, and to create an outstanding service experience for loyal clients.
In recent years, the team also took on the challenge of ‘going green’ and completely overhauled their practices around disposal of Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
Portrait of an
EDUCATOR BERNADETTE BESWICK
After 35 years in the industry as both hairdresser and educator, master cutter Bernadette Beswick this year launched her bespoke education brand, Beswick Education Services. Known fondly as ‘Bernie’ to many, her philosophy surrounding education stems from the passion she has as a hairdresser. The BES mission is to increase confidence, elevate skillsets and encourage students to gain expertise in all core areas of the hairdressing craft. Central to the BES core curriculum are the three areas Bernadette believes are essential to becoming an exceptional hairdresser – technical skills, communication skills and sales skills. All three components together enable Stylists to not only service clients to a high level, but also run a sustainable and profitable business. Hair Biz Editor, Kym Krey spoke with Bernadette recently to discover more.
BERNADETTE, TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER PRIOR TO SPECIALIZING IN EDUCATION.
I’ve been a hairdresser for 33 years, and this has enabled me to work around having 4 children, and from salons to mobile situations. Before starting education, I spent many years on the salon floor, working in salons that I believe best suited the work I enjoyed producing with clientele I loved to inspire and teams that were dynamic. During this time, I was also fortunate to be mentored by and work alongside strong women in our industry, namely Lorna Evans and Tracey Hughes. 38
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I spent many years attending as much education as possible to ensure my skills were always improving, travelling to Sassoon’s in London and also attending business consulting classes to work on my personal development with global company Rogansi. I have always had a strong believe in the power of Education.
WHEN DID THIS PATH OF BECOMING AN EDUCATOR BECOME YOUR DREAM?
Becoming an educator for me has always been a part of who I am. I have always enjoyed sharing the knowledge I have accumulated, being a role model for others and helping others grow. My belief that the biggest gift in education is enabling others to grow, is at the heart of who I am.
HOW DID YOU MAKE THE TRANSITION FROM SALON STYLIST TO EDUCATOR?
Working with brands like Zumay Salon and Mieka Hairdressing where education was key to their individual cultures gave me opportunities to educate within both businesses and witness the teams’ skillsets expand. From here, joining Tracey Hughes Education (THEdu) as Tracey’s lead educator saw me educating within the industry on a national and global level.
WHAT WAS YOUR ‘BREAK’ INTO THIS NEW DIRECTION? Life holds many chapters for us all
individually. After many memorable years working with THEdu, that particular chapter came to an end. I decided to take the step to be my own person, follow my heart and, feeling the timing was right, begin my own education brand.
prepared to work hard and never lose sight of your end goal.
HOW LONG DID IT TAKE UNTIL YOU FELT ESTABLISHED IN THIS NICHE?
This is a hard question to answer! Having a large family was very, very time consuming (I love all four of my children dearly and they know that), and on reflection as a woman, I may have chosen to set my career up first and then start a family. However, at this very moment in time I have managed to do both – have a large family and a career which to me is pretty amazing! I think if you really want to achieve something and if you are determined (and I was and still am), then work with where you are and build up to where you want to be. Perseverance, determination and guts are three vital qualities to possess!
I have worked on the 3 areas I teach for 10 years to perfect them so I was well prepared to comfortably and immediately fit into this niche with my own brand. I have been booked solidly since I started the business, 7 months ago.
WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE MOST NEEDED SKILL FROM WHAT YOU’VE SEEN IN THE INDUSTRY?
I believe the most important and crucial things are knowledge of foundation skills; a true understanding of what technique to choose and what result will be obtained from the chosen technique. Forming a strong knowledge of foundations allows you to create a haircut to suit each individual client.
WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR MOST POPULAR PROGRAMS?
Whilst I do a great deal of hands-on cutting education, my most requested programs have been Retail Rage and Consultation Champion, which I believe, reflects the Salon Owner’s understanding of the need to combine technical skills with business acumen and communication skills.
FOR SOMEONE ALSO DREAMING OF THIS CAREER PATH, WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE?
Be passionate, motivated and driven to succeed, then educate yourself from as many sources as possible both in and out of the industry in the areas you want to teach. Find good mentors; people whom you aspire to be like or who inspire you. Surround yourself with people who lift you up and support your belief in achieving your goals and dreams. Most importantly, be
IF YOU HAD YOUR TIME OVER GAIN, IS THERE ANYTHING YOU WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY?
WHAT IS THE MOST REWARDING ASPECT OF WHAT YOU DO?
Looking at the faces of others as they hold on to the information you are imparting to them. Seeing someone else learn from my original content. Watching hairdressers change lives. We do more than just do hair - we lift the life of another and that’s what I find the most rewarding It has also been so rewarding, and quite humbling to have so much industry support since the inception of BES. The open arms of our industry have overwhelmed me; this industry is so generous in giving and believing in education.
WHAT’S AHEAD FOR BES?
To expand my audience and reach out to many more hairdressers is my ultimate goal. 2018 is already looking to be a huge year for me; I am looking forward immensely to encouraging more hairdressers to always inspire, create and fly with new education ideas in haircutting, the client journey and the power of sales to be #theexceptionalhairdresser.
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A POWERHOUSE PARTNERSHIP
Wella’s State Sales Manager for Queensland, Jackie Pearson, has admired and respected Benni Tognini her whole hairdressing career, and spoken with him on many occasions. What always struck Jackie about Benni, was that he is a very humble person, despite winning every award this industry has to offer. Benni Tognini is well known for being totally committed to his craft and to the elevation of the industry.
Wella started discussions with Togninis over a year ago, and along the journey, Jackie and her team got to know the rest of the Tognini family, Tracey, Kristian and Jules. The commitment the family embodies to this industry is total and all consuming. It became very evident early on that Togninis values and beliefs reflect that of Wella’s, with a united purpose: To elevate, educate and build the business of all hairdressers to strengthen our industry as a whole. “It is exciting for Wella to understand where Togninis see the industry going and what we can all do to strengthen it” said Jackie. “Their ability to constantly look outside of the square and push the boundaries is exciting in itself. This enthusiasm is infectious and flows through to their team, who strive to be the best of the best. Although our journey together is just beginning we know our united future will be bright and exciting.” Speaking with Jerome Toulza, General Manager, Coty Professional Beauty ANZ he said “When you join Wella, you become part of a family that will collaborate with you to achieve your dreams and grow your hairdressing skills and business. We feel privileged and humbled 40
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And what do the Togninis themselves have to say about this new partnership? “We’ve partnered with Wella because they are Great people, have an extensive colour range, fabulous support, genuine involvement and amazing opportunities to develop and stretch our entire team” says Benni, “All these things make a great foundation to grow together”
that Benni, Tracey, Jules and Kristian feel that Wella is the best business partner for them. Benni truly is one of the industry greats, so for Wella to be able to work with talent of his calibre, along with his fantastic family and salon team, is very special, and a partnership we look forward to growing over many years to come. We truly felt there was a great harmony between the Cultures of our companies, which is making this partnership even more precious and special.”
Tracey Tognini adds “30 years of salon ownership has taught us the importance of strong relationships with like-minded companies. Wella offers incredible colour ranges designed to meet all our creative needs. Our new Wella family is amazingly supportive and genuinely excited to explore a collaborative relationship. Let the fun begin!” Josh Congreve, who recently joined the Tognini family and is certainly one to watch said, “It’s so great to be part of the Wella family! It’s an innovative company looking towards the future of hairdressing. I’ve found the colour to offer unparalleled shine and unlimited creative possibilities.” Watch this space for some great things planned for this powerhouse partnership between hair royalty Togninis and Wella Professionals.
Brisbane School of B A R B E R I N G
Educating creative artists for 37 years
APPRENTICESHIP TRAINING DESIGNED FOR YOUR SALON. - Workplace Delivery - Campus delivery - Block training Call 3229 2999 to discuss your training needs.
3229-2999 Image Â© Wella
GEMSTONE HAIRCOLOUR By Kristina Russell
Kristina Russell is a Master Haircolour Artist and former Global Ambassador for Redken 5th Ave NYC, travelling frequently educating and training hairstylists in Australia, New Zealand, Asia, Europe and across the USA. Her photographic work has been published in over 30+ countries. She has been honoured with awards such as YEN magazine Young Woman of the Year, Finalist AHFA Creative Colourist of the Year, Hair Expo Finalist Apprentice of the Year, and the winner of Australia’s most prestigious award Hair Expo Colour Technician of the Year. Kristina trained at Sydney salon Blondes Brunettes and Redheads, with renowned Vidal Sassoon NYC Colour Director Alyson Schoer. Together they explored creative colour concepts and shared a love for education. Kristina’s creative technical skills led her to then be aligned with Redken for 13+ years as a Global Ambassador. Her talent for learner-focused education secured her a prestigious teaching role as an International Colour Facilitator for many years at the Redken 5th Ave Exchange (voted Favourite Advanced Academy by the Stylist Choice Awards).
Her studies of Textile Design and Printing at Sydney’s exclusive National Art School 10 years ago, changed her perception of colour theory. Kristina has injected colour mixing and theory from a different perspective to the hairdressing norm, presented in her ‘pure’ education approach. We asked Kristina to share with the HairBiz Readers her thoughts on the SS18 trends of what she likes to call “Gemstone Haircolour” “My signature style is artistic colours with dimension. I am known for my unique approach to colouring hair as if it is a ‘blank canvas’. Combining hair painting and precise foiling, I like to create a 3rd dimension by colouring in shadows and texture. Forecasting haircolour and predicting what’s next for clients is a fun opportunity for us (hairdressers) to make suggestions of what we would like to do next for our client. Loving the opalescence haircolour trend, I believe that ‘Gemstone Haircolour’ is the natural progression for SS18. My current obsession is creating pastel, refractive haircolour inspired by gemstones. Optical properties of gemstones are those
which are related to the behaviour of light on, or in, a gemstone. Some of these can be seen, and even quantified, with the naked eye alone. Three such characteristics are: lustre, transparency, and colour. Transparency relates to how much light can get through the gemstone. This relates to hair with incredible similarities. Depending on the thickness and quality of hair, we as Hairdressers need to adjust the dilution of haircolour and have tools that can add shine. When light hits the hair the colour can sparkle or have texture with dimension. I have been exploring Gemology to create nextlevel customised haircolour with temporary toning conditioners. My redhead and blonde clients are already loving this approach. And with careful experimentation, I will soon be offering this services to brunettes.”
HOW TO CREATE GEMSTONE HAIRCOLOUR:
1. Create a beautiful base colour - blonde, copper, strawberry blonde or light brown 2. Shampoo and blast dry hair to 50% dry 3. Mix 3 colours in harmonious tones for a punchy effect 4. Or Mix 5 colours in harmonious tones for a more subtle result 5. Create curved, fish scale sections and paint tumbling/rotating colours across the head 6. Orbital sectioning works well to keep balance 7. Hot Tip! Paint the front 1cm off hairline with client’s fave colour
KRISTINA’S FORMULAS AS SEEN AT COLOUR QUEENS FOR THIS ‘TOPAZ BOMBSHELL’
1. 10% Orange direct dye diluted with 90% conditioner 2. 10% Red and 20% Yellow direct dye diluted with 70% conditioner 3. 10% Red diluted with 90% conditioner 4. Hot Tip! Paint all direct dye custom colours on a piece of white paper to check tone before you apply to hair. This can be interactive with client If you like to include them.
BUZZ WORDS TO HELP WITH CLIENT CONSULTATIONS:
Metallic Vitreous (like glass) Silky Pearly Topaz + Ruby + Amber or your fave stone Photo credits Model: Ellouise Davis Event: Colour Queens Education Colour + Trend: Kristina Russell Styling: Liam Hubbard Hailing from Sydney, Australia, Kristina works both in salon as well as keeping a busy schedule travelling Australia and the world, teaching classes of her own design. For more information:www.kristinarussell.com Instagram: @ColourKristina Facebook: ColourKristina
PANDORA’S HAIR WITCHERY
Led by Salon Director Julie Farragher for over 35 years, Pandora’s Hair Witchery is a stellar example of success achieved through dedication and commitment to excellence. The Pandora’s experience is consistently 5-star and is supported by an incredibly talented team of skilled experts and leaders in the Hair and Beauty industry. A loyal Wella partner for over 15 years, Julie attributes her success in part to the strong relationship she and her team have built with their business partner and the alignment in their values, vision and passion for innovation and excellence in hair. In celebration of such a wonderful contribution to the salon industry, Hair Biz Editor, Kym Krey spoke with Julie recently.
JULIE, YOU’VE BEEN IN BUSINESS FOR OVER 40 YEARS. HOW DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE CHANGED AS A BUSINESS OWNER DURING THAT TIME?
YOU OR WAS THIS DEVELOPED THROUGH BUSINESS OWNERSHIP?
Yes, these were always strong characteristics of mine as I came from very ordinary beginnings. I was determined, passionate and absolutely driven with the strong will and desire to succeed in life from a very young age. I have always tried to pass on and help develop this trait in others, but it is not always guaranteed. I think you either have the fire in your belly or you don’t, but I’m always inspired when I see that work ethic, passion and drive.
Business is fluid and dynamic. As business and the modes of business change – so you must also change with it. A business must always have a plan and set goals but be prepared to adjust the goalposts or adjust the sails when the wind changes. It’s not always smooth sailing but the storm will always pass and the sun always comes out again. I do think business is harder today than it was before, but hairdressing isn’t the only business experiencing this. We have to be open to change and reinvention. In particular, I am even more aware of the importance of recognition and have become better at delegating to key people who specialize in and love a particular aspect of the business. We also follow strict policy systems and procedures and encourage ongoing education but are mindful to also offer flexibility.
WHAT DID IT TAKE FOR YOU TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS FROM ORDINARY TO EXTRAORDINARY?
YOU ARE KNOWN FOR YOUR INCREDIBLE WORK ETHIC, YOUR PASSION AND YOUR SHEER DRIVE. HAS THIS ALWAYS BEEN CHARACTERISTIC OF
Hairdressing is a business that is personalitycentric and difficult to scale. If you scale the product, you commoditize it. Pandora’s clients didn’t enjoy that, and neither did I. Pandora’s culture and I, myself could not be cloned.
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Not accepting ‘ordinary’ from the team. A business is a combination of all things and human capital particularly. If you accept a substandard product from your team, you’re letting the team down and also your clients. You get what you accept so I make sure I always lead by example.
YOU MADE THE DECISION TO EXPAND TO A SECOND SALON TWICE AND BOTH TIMES WERE UNSUCCESSFUL. TELL US ABOUT THOSE EXPERIENCES AND HOW YOU RECOVERED TO THRIVE AGAIN.
YOU HAVE 4 STAFF WHO HAVE BEEN WITH YOU OVER 10 YEARS. MANY SALONS GRAPPLE WITH STAFF RETENTION. HOW HAVE YOU DEVELOPED SUCH LOYALTY AMONG YOUR TEAM?
The grass isn’t necessarily greener on the other side; it’s greener where it is watered, so I look after my staff and make sure they feel valued and important. I am incredibly lucky to have four team members: Deanne, Vicki Trish and Bianca (Buffi), who have been part of the Pandora’s brand for so long- some nearing 20 years! I never become complacent with my team’s personal and professional development and individual goals. I offer ongoing support, flexibility and a sense of purpose and of course job security. I have always listened and encouraged open discussion with my managers and we bounce ideas off each other. The may not love an idea that I present or vice versa, but the honesty and respect between each us all is always present. I am also always available and contactable 24/7, even if I’m away from the salon. My team know they don’t just work for me; they work beside me and that’s the difference.
YOU HAVE DEVELOPED SOLID SKILLS IN BOTH THE ANALYTICAL/BUSINESS AS WELL AS THE CREATIVE ASPECTS OF YOUR BUSINESS WHICH CAN BE A CHALLENGE FOR MANY. HOW DO YOU FIND THE BALANCE BETWEEN THE TWO?
Both are imperative for success. You could be incredibly artistic and talented but you
cannot run a successful business if you do not understand the back end. I have always monitored the numbers and having an CPA accountant husband and a Certified Accountant son also helps with this. We have many business systems that are constantly being benchmarked and monitored, including new client numbers, client retention, client demographics, rebooking, referrals, treatments, retailing and team targets. Our marketing is constantly being refreshed. Clients get bored with the same marketing so it has to constantly evolve to get their attention.
YOU CONSTRUCTED YOUR OWN PURPOSE-BUILT, MILLIONDOLLAR DESTINATION BUILDING WITH EXTRAORDINARY FLOOR TO CEILING GLASS PANELLING WHICH WON A CIVIC DESIGN AWARD. WHAT LED YOU AWAY FROM SHOPPING CENTRE LOCATIONS TO THIS DECISION?
To put that into perspective, it was a million dollar building back in 1973; some 24 years ago when the average house price in Sydney was $188,000. At the time, that was a huge investment for my husband and I, however it turned out to be one of the best things we have ever done. Moving out of the shopping centre gave us our autonomy. There are, of course, benefits to being in a centre such as passing trade, walk-ins and easy retail which was always very helpful to our profit margin, but we were confident we were recognized as a destination store and our independence and the property investment benefits far out-weighed the shopping centre hype and attractions.
WHAT IMPACT HAS MOVING TO THIS LOCATION HAD ON YOUR BUSINESS?
Having our own purpose-built building allowed us to have everything we wanted, in terms of layout, space, natural light, client parking and 24/7 access, just to name a few. Back in our shopping centre days, we were mostly told what we could and couldn’t do and having our own building also contributed to further
establishing Pandora’s as a brand. We lease space in our building to four other tenant businesses which brings additional income. When in a shopping centre, the walk-in clients automatically came in and asked our advice so it was easy retail profit in those days. Now, our team all must be able to prescribe and recommend the necessary take home program of products to maintain the looks we have created but Wella offer a variety of home care ranges at various price point which are an ideal fit for our mixed demographics.
YOU HAVE WON MORE AWARDS THAN WE WOULD HAVE SPACE TO MENTION. THAT’S AN INCREDIBLE TRACK RECORD. YOU OBVIOUSLY SEE THIS AS AN IMPORTANT PART OF YOUR BUSINESS?
Yes, I am ambitious and competitive by nature. I think it would be difficult to succeed in business if you weren’t and it’s always been an important element of Pandora’s. Business awards, hairdressing competitions including Wella TrendVision and also our presence over the years at National and International Fashion Weeks have brought recognition and endorsement from our business partner, Wella, industry peers, our local community and our clientele. Advertising cannot buy this.
YOU HAVE PARTNERED WITH WELLA FOR OVER 15 YEARS NOW. WHAT HAS BEEN THE BENEFIT TO YOU OF MAINTAINING SUCH A LONGTERM RELATIONSHIP?
The benefit of maintaining such a long-term relationship is simply that: the relationship! #wellafamily. Wella builds relationships with stylists as well as salon owners and are always working to elevate our Industry. I believe that Wella offer education, reliability, support, consistency, trust and, of course, a premium and luxurious product. Together, we have a win:win relationship which you can’t develop when you swap and change suppliers all the time.
YOU’VE BEEN DOING THIS A LONG TIME! CAN YOU SEE A DAY AHEAD WHEN YOU MIGHT DECIDE TO HANG UP THE SCISSORS OR IS THAT THE FURTHEST THING FROM YOUR MIND?
It’s hard to give up what you love doing and why should I? My health is still great, I have flexibility if I do feel like some time off and my managers and team love to show how well they can perform even when I’m away. l still love being behind the chair; it keeps you up to date on what consumers want and what your team needs. I have seen many evolutions in the industry: long scissors, short scissors, streaking caps, spiral perming and foiling and our current beauty revolution of the baylayage. I love to teach and guide so why would I stop passing that on? I hope that I can continue to help raise the level and standard of our industry. Retirement kills more people than hard work ever did!
WHAT’S AHEAD FOR THE PANDORA’S TEAM?
No more babies for a while I hope :) We have just had one stylist return to work but I currently still have 2 off on maternity leave. We’ve been at this for almost 40 years but we are still learning and evolving and will continue to do so, so more continuous education and improvement. Pandora’s Hair Witchery is situated at 35 Smith Street, Charlestown, NSW. www.pandorashair.com.au
To find out more about joining the Wella family, please contact 1300 889 886
ROCA VERDE Delorenzo ASPYA Salon of The Year 2017
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Growing up in the outback Queensland town of Charleville on a 30-thousand acre rural property, Sara Briscoe always wanted to be a hairdresser. As a Tea and Tidy, her first taste was in a tiny salon that sold shoes as well as hair services but it was enough for her to know that this was the career for her.
With big dreams, she packed her bags and left her country life for the bright lights of the city, moving to Brisbane in search of a hairdressing apprenticeship which she found with the team at Marcia Gibson salons. A beachside life beckoned, so once qualified, she moved to the beautiful Sunshine Coast, working in several prominent salons before it was time for a serious adventure. She and her then-boyfriend (now husband) Dan, set off on the rite of passage for any young Aussie: the overseas working holiday. They spent months living in Canada and exploring the USA, but it was while sitting on a beach in Costa Rica that Sara’s entrepreneurial vision was born. Thinking about what might lay ahead when she returned to the land of Oz and soaking up the beauty of the seascape in front of her, she said to herself: “When I have my own salon one day, I’m going to call it after this place. I’ll call it Roca Verde”. But alas, when you arrive back from an extended trip overseas, you’re rarely cashed up enough to buy a business and there was little chance of a business loan, so Dan‘s parents saved the day, offering to go guarantor and the deal was done. Roca Verde opened with Sara and just one apprentice and, like most new salon owners, the next few years were a blur of hard work trying to get established. Disaster struck when her landlord announced that he was increasing the rent
substantially, well beyond what the business could afford. What could they do? It was here that Sara and Dan’s savvy business minds got together and got serious. Fortuitously, the shop next door became available for sale but could they really consider buying their own building? They’d only been in business for 3 years! Well, what’s a budding entrepreneur going to do when her back’s to the corner? Go BIG! They took the plunge and signed on the dotted line.
KK: I IMAGE THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN A STRESSFUL TIME. DID YOU FEEL A GREAT DEAL OF PRESSURE MAKING THAT DECISION? SB: Absolutely, there was heaps of pressure! However, we felt that the money was going towards ourselves and our business rather than paying rent to someone else so we felt it was worth the risk. We had absolutely no budget though. We did all of the renovations ourselves. Between us, we had to learn to do everything that needed to be done! The rest, as they say, is history, as Roca Verde has absolutely flourished growing to a team of 9 dedicated staff, many of whom have been with Sara for many years. Incidentally, 2 years later the shop next door also became available and ….. of course we bought that too!
KK: IN AN INDUSTRY STRUGGLING TO ATTRACT AND RETAIN GREAT STAFF, WHAT’S YOUR SECRET
TO KEEPING YOUR PEOPLE YEAR AFTER YEAR? SB: I think it’s a combination of things. Firstly, we
do lots of training that I also pay for. I want highly trained staff so I invest in their skills. I pay one of my most experienced seniors as my staff trainer and she creates a training plan for each team member and works closely with me to ensure that we strengthen any areas that are required, based on client feedback and our own observations. Secondly, I offer flexibility and this is absolutely key to keeping good staff happy. As long as they’re productive and consistently making target, they can pretty much work whenever they want, as long as they don’t take advantage. They can take a Saturday off if they need it, as long as their hours are done and they make their budget. I have a couple of ‘mining wives’ on the team who of course want to take time off when their man is home so I allow them to arrange their schedule and their appointments and they appreciate that, so make sure they do the right thing. It’s a win, win. And thirdly, I pay my staff above award wages as well as a percentage of their income over target. This encourages them to think like a business owner; to do good quality hair, be quick, educate their clients and recommend great home care which gets their average income per hour up. Again, it’s a win, win. My clients are looked after; they feel appreciated and rewarded and they stay because they’re on a good wicket. We are booked solid and everyone makes bonuses. cont’d over page
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There are many impressive things about this dynamo but the one that truly sets her apart as a market leader is the skill she has developed with social media. Entirely self-taught, Sara is now very clever at all thing SM, using Instagram, Pinterest and Facebook like a pro. In fact, most of Roca Verde’s new clients come via social media either from their direct posts or those of the ‘IT’ girl bloggers she has recruited to share their story.
KK: HOW DID YOU BECOME SO PROFICIENT IN SOCIAL MEDIA? SB: I just started out watching what other salons
and even other businesses were doing and just copied them initially. Over time, I worked out what got engagement and what didn’t and pretty much learned by trial and error. We started getting so many clients booking from our Instagram page that we now deliberately use this as a tool for that purpose. Our Instagram ‘stories’ are hugely popular where we just film the salon being super busy, or film a product, or a colour being mixed up while we talk about what we’re doing or even a before, during and after video of a client having a big change. People love it!
KK: SO YOU DON’T SPEND ANY MONEY ON OTHER ADVERTISING NOW, SARA? SB: No, we only spend on bloggers. We look for
girls who we call ‘IT’ girls. They’re super-popular, hot with heaps of followers and their own ‘look’ and personal page is inspirational. Or, they may be local business owners like a wedding planner, a busy local shop owner who knows everyone. They’re influencers who can potentially sway hundreds of potential clients so we invest in doing their hair for free, in return for them blogging about their hair and their visit to the salon. We have an agreement in place which them which sets out how often they need to post and what type of content they need to post. They draw attention to the salon and say ‘Hey, this is a cool place to get your hair done!’ It gives us a lot of street cred. Last time we did a blogger, we got 10 clients from her!
KK: NOW SARA, WHILE YOU’RE BUSILY BUILDING THE ROCA VERDE EMPIRE, YOU ALSO MANAGE TO JUGGLE A HUSBAND AND TWO KIDS. HOW ON EARTH DO YOU MANAGE THAT AND DO THINGS GET CRAZY AT TIMES? SB: Wine is how I cope with it! No seriously, I
make sure I have regular holidays, at least twice a year and I don’t feel guilty about taking these. Yes, something always goes wrong- I expect that- but I usually go where there’s no Wi-Fi so I don’t know until I get back! I believe that if you don’t have holidays, you only have yourself to blame. Sure, you have to sacrifice things, like income, but you need to do it for you and for your team and family. You also need to have help. I pay a nanny through my business so I can free up time. If I’m going to be in this for the long haul, I need to do that for me. It costs $200 or even $300 a week, but it allows me to be in the salon or do a client and I make that money back and more.
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KK: DOES PRODUCTIVITY STAY HIGH WHILE YOU’RE AWAY? SB: Look, when you’re not there, even great staff
do flatten a little bit. No one loves your business like you do, but having said that, I couldn’t ask for better staff members. Small details get left, but nothing that isn’t recoverable.
KK: IT’S WONDERFUL THAT YOUR DEDICATION AND BUSINESS ACUMEN HAS BEEN RECOGNISED WITH YOUR RECENT AWARD WIN AS DELORENZO ASPYA SALON OF THE YEAR. WHAT DOES THAT HONOUR MEAN TO YOU, SARA? SB: We are sooooo stoked to have won this
award. It’s such wonderful validation for our team that we are doing the right thing and heading in the right direction. The validation from such a respected company like Delorenzo means the world to us and I am super proud of our team.
KK: HOW DO YOU THINK THIS AWARD WILL IMPACT YOUR BUSINESS OR YOUR TEAM? SB: It feels great that a boutique salon from
the Sunshine Coast can win a national accolade like this. It’s such great kudos for us and morale is extremely high for our team. The PR for the business for such a big win is so valuable and will definitely help get our brand out there both to prospective clients and also for recruitment of prospective fabulous team members. The peer recognition within the industry is also very gratifying and a lovely added bonus. The process of taking the time to dissect, review and analyse the business to create the submission was priceless for me as a business owner and I highly recommend going through this to other salon owners.
KK: WHAT’S ON THE HORIZON FOR YOU AND ROCA VERDE IN THE NEAR FUTURE? SB: We just completed a renovation with the
help of a fab interior designer, Designed by Dani and are thrilled with the results. We’re excited to be working alongside Delorenzo next year delivering education in colour workshops and business acumen and also really want to continue to power forward with our plan to make Roca as environmentally-friendly as we can. A big priority for me is to continue to be the fearless leader for my wonderful team and to help them with career opportunities away the salon floor as well.
KK: AND FINALLY, YOU DISCOVERED AN AMAZING CONNECTION WITH WELL-KNOWN LONG HAIR ARTIST, PAULA HIBBARD. TELL US ABOUT THAT. SB: Yes, we were both born in Charleville and both
grew up on a property called ‘Wyoming Station’, 800k inland between Morven and Charleville. We also have the same maiden name (Mann) and although we don’t think we’re actually related, it turns out her dad knew my grandparents who I lived with then. Such a small world! Photographer - Shelly Dowling Interior Styling - Designed by Danni
TRUE BLONDE Zero Yellow
Pure Silver Shampoo & Conditioner
Contact M&U Imports for full product details on (03) 9555 1533 email@example.com | www.muimports.com.au 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia
New Zealand Triumphs at
WELLA INTERNATIONAL TRENDVISION 2017
New Zealand has emerged triumphant at Wella International TrendVision in London, winning both Platinum Awards in Color Vision and Creative Vision.
Color Vision Platinum Award Mana Dave of Blaze Salon
This is the first time that either Australia or New Zealand has been awarded Platinum, and, in an unprecedented achievement, it is the first time ever that the same country has been awarded Platinum in both categories at the biggest event on the Wella calendar.
Both winners travelled to compete in London after winning Gold Awards at Australia & New Zealand National TrendVision Finals last month, alongside Australia’s Gold winners, Beau Jenkins of UVA Salon and Jack Horton of Jack Horton Hair Boutique.
Mana Dave of Blaze Salon won the Color Vision Platinum Award and Kylie Hayes of Moha Hairdressing won the Creative Vision Platinum Award, competing against 83 finalists from around the world.
“This is an absolutely incredible result for New Zealand and Australian hairdressers and we couldn’t be prouder of Kylie Hayes and Mana Dave winning Platinum Awards. To win Platinum in both Color Vison and Creative Vision categories on the world stage has never been achieved before and is testament to the creativity of our talent. We encourage all hairdressers in Australia and New Zealand to register to Wella’s Education platform to relive the magic of the night and discover the 2018 Trends.” Gina Thomas, Wella’s Education Director Australia & New Zealand
Judging Wella International TrendVision were some the world’s most esteemed hair visionaries: Color Vison – Andreas Kurkowitz, Jayson Gray, Michio Nozawa, Annie Humphreys and Larisa Love Creative Vision – Eugene Souleiman, Dimitry Vinokurov, Pavlos Divitaris, Rosângela Barchetta and Nicola Shannon
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“Wella is so thrilled for Mana Dave and Kylie Hayes, and we send them a huge congratulations. To
Creative Vision Platinum Award Kylie Hayes of Moha Hairdressing
compete and win Platinum at Wella International TrendVision is an extraordinary achievement and a life-changing opportunity. We are also incredibly proud that our Creative Director, Renya Xydis, represented ANZ live on stage with her impressive 2018 Trend Reveal. To have this level of talent coming from Australia is something to be truly proud of. Wella is committed to supporting our industry in Australia and New Zealand and showcasing the extraordinary talent we have. To all our finalists and winners, the standard of work was truly exceptional and we encourage you to enter the 2018 competition and follow in our winners’ footsteps.” Jerome Toulza, General Manager, Coty Professional Beauty ANZ In addition to the Awards, Wella Professionals Creative Director ANZ, Renya Xydis, delivered an incredible presentation and runway show live on stage in London at ITVA unveiling the official SS18 and AW18 Trends alongside Darren Ambrose of D&J Ambrose UK.
Brighten up brows with Colour! Even customers wearing the most original outfits want their looks to be individual and type-matching. When creating these looks the style of brows and lashes is as important as the hair colour. With Brow Styling by Refectocil even the wildest, most creative looks can be perfected. Shape the brows with the Brow Styling Strips and tint with a mix of red and deep blue - for young and crazy styles! For more information and to view the Refectocil Colour Style Book visit:
Glamour in the
PALM OF YOUR HAND
With so many questions surrounding irons nowadays, one of the standalone point of differences amongst many is who makes them and where are they made. GlamPalm is one company that are extremely vocal and proud of their history, their heritage and the fact that they are made in South Korea, known for its attention to detail and quality. GlamPalm is the latest EXCLUSIVE brand name in a long history of innovation representing the most advanced hair stylers available with the parent company of GlamPalm a well known global market leader who has created the patented technology powering familiar professional brands.
“The dream of virtually no hair damage has been made a reality by GlamPalm” 52
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The production of GlamPalm irons in South Korea is all manual, with each section handled by skilled workers and quality being paramount and checked throughout the whole process.
HEALING STONE TECHNOLOGY™
For centuries, the untapped power of the Healing Stone, whose natural purifying and healing properties have long been
linked to longevity and vitality, was hidden deep in the mountains of South Korea. Today, GlamPalm, the exclusive owner of the Healing Stone mines, infuses this into its world-class Styling Tools for an exceptional therapeutic benefit. A proprietary plating process allows the tools to emit high levels of far infrared rays and anions, odorless, tasteless, invisible molecules that are breathed abundantly in mountain, beach, and aquatic environments. The rare and patented Healing Stone Technology™ promotes overall health and eliminates damage often associated with heat styling. The Healing Stone™ is found within the South Korean mountains and infused into each styling tool. The Healing Stone™, used in Eastern medicine for almost 1000 years, is extremely smooth and prevents snags, pulls and breakage. One use imparts visible gloss and touchable health.
“Not only do our products prevent damage, but they also provide benefits for overall hair health. Many products on the market use what is called ‘Nano Silver Technology’. Research shows that these nanoparticles are potentially toxic.They may damage hair and even negatively affect skin on the neck and face that the iron is used around. All GlamPalm products are non-toxic, as they are committed to both the beauty and health of our customers.” says Koen. In true South Korean style, two teams of workers work for 2 hours in the factory and then break for 2 hours to keep concentration levels at a maximum. All plates are made in a special room with right humidity and temperature. It is a bit like making wine where every single factor has to be right to get the quality that GlamPalm stands for and are then proud to pass on internationally to their customers. Eye for detail and quality is the game, even down to the machine that has been testing the main springs now for over 9 years to see when and if it loses tension as most other irons do after a while. Every single iron gets checked for the right temperature calibration, as 200 degrees is the maximum temperature to maintain healthy hair. “Anything above this will damage the hair.” Says Managing Director Koen Verelst. “Thanks to GlamPalm’s Healing Stone Technology you can create any style at a lower heat. Extreme temperatures over 200 is the past, the future is healthy styling with GlamPalm!” “Most irons have a heat recovery speed of 4-5 seconds which means when you start at one side of the hair at 230 degrees by the time you are at the other side the iron is only 200 or 190 degrees.
Thanks to our Heat Recovery Speed of 0.1 seconds Keratin Treatments are easy and with a constant 200 degrees you end up with that beautiful result GlamPalm is known for.” GlamPalm’s parent company received the GOOD DESIGN AWARD - one of the world’s top three design awards, with products used by or on world famous celebrities such as Jennifer Aniston, Naomi Campbell, Miranda Kerr, Khloe Kardashian and many others. At the end of the day it all comes down to technology and with GlamPalm being a manufacturer and inventor for more than 15 years, technology and quality is their pride.
DID YOU KNOW… GlamPalm irons heat up in 5-8 seconds to the desired temperature? This is the fastest in the world and at the end of the day will save the hairdresser time and money. GlamPalm are the inventors of the first tilting cushioned plates, ceramic plates, temperature settings, 3d swivel pivot cord, fastest heat-up speed, sweat-absorbing grip, Healing Stone Technology, Clinic Mode and NanoVibrating Technology. All the money GlamPalm earns goes back into the company into Research & Development to invent the next state-of-the-art technology to provide the hairdresser and the customer with the healthiest hair possible creating amazing results. For more information contact www.glampalm.com.au firstname.lastname@example.org Ph: 1300 652 797
“Hair styled with GlamPalm is scientifically proven to have “almost no hair damage”.”
CAUSING A RIOT! The word on the street is that there’s quite a riot going on in salons around the country. Pulp Riot to be specific. This edgy range of vibrant colourants is vegan, gluten-free, cruelty free, ammonia and paraben free… and it’s so much fun! But it’s not the only superstar in Distributor Rogue Beauty’s stable which also includes artist-driven brands Oribe, R+Co, Smith & Cult, V76 by Vaughn. Wanting to know more about the brands that have set tongue wagging throughout the industry, Hair Biz Editor Kym Krey tracked down Director of Brands Chris Hammond and Director Jared Fisher to get the inside story.
WHO IS ROGUE BEAUTY?
Rogue Beauty is where high performance hair and beauty products meet progressive artistry and design. From the elegant and sophisticated to the bold and brazen, our artist-driven collection of brands has been created by leaders in their field and designed specifically for salons.
TELL US HOW THE ROGUE BEAUTY COLLABORATION CAME ABOUT.
Even though our Rogue Beauty business is only 3 years old, the story of how we came to arrive here goes back almost a decade to when we launched Oribe in the US. I was based in New York at the time; this was 2008, and I was part of the team that launched the brand. We broke new ground in the luxury hair category, and managed to build the brand in both the best salons across the US, as well as in luxury retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, Barney’s and Neiman Marcus. We went on to launch an expanded portfolio of exciting, artist-driven hair and beauty brands which now include R+Co, Smith & Cult, V76 by Vaughn and Pulp Riot …and Rogue Beauty is the vehicle for these brands in the Australian and New Zealand markets. Chris Hammond, who ran Oribe for us in the UK for many years, joined me in 54
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Chris Hammond and Jared Fisher
“The brand is extremely relatable and speaks in a language that hairdressers understand.” 2014 when we launched Rogue Beauty and our brands, and we now have an amazing team of about 15 spread right across the country and are
so fortunate to work with some of the very best salons and stylists in the country.
WHAT DO WE NEED TO KNOW ABOUT R+Co?
R+Co is a first-of-its-kind salon brand created by a collective of some of the most forwardthinking, rule-bending hairstylists in the business. Howard McLaren, Thom Priano and Garren joined forces to create a ‘superbrand’ that is designed and inspired by their years of professional experience in salon, technical education, editorial, fashion and lifestyle work. Designed to create an ‘experience’, R+Co’s product line-up is paraben-free, sulfate (SLS
or SLES)-free, gluten-free, vegetarian, crueltyfree and color safe and the packaging and fragrances were designed to evoke a feeling, place, style or attitude. Supporting the range is R+Co’s salon-customized education, robust support programs and generous benefits which combine to offer Australia’s leading salons an opportunity to further elevate their salon experience and inspire their team.
RATHER THAN PRODUCT FORMULATION, YOU CREATED A BRAND AND AN EDUCATION PHILOSOPHY. WHAT INSPIRED THIS WAY OF THINKING AND HOW DO YOU THINK THIS HAS SHAPED YOUR BRAND?
Artists are truly at the core of all our brands. Take Oribe for example. The brand combines Oribe’s 30 years of styling heritage at the top of the editorial and salon worlds with cutting-edge innovation, beautiful custom packaging and a fine fragrance that delivers the highest levels of performance and luxury. Our other brands were constructed with a similar level of detail and uncompromised performance. By offering salons an array of best-in-class products and customised education and support programs, we hope to deliver Australia’s leading salon businesses a unique portfolio of brands which will elevate the experience for their clients and at the same time inspire their stylists.
YOU LAUNCHED THE PULP RIOT BRAND IN THE US ONLY 12 MONTHS AGO AND HAVE SINCE EXPANDED TO CANADA AND NOW AUSTRALIA, WAS THAT YOUR STRATEGY FROM THE BEGINNING OR A RESULT OF THE ORGANIC POPULARITY OF THE PRODUCTS?
Pulp Riot is as much a social movement as it is a product line and I think the growth of the brand has taken everyone by surprise to be honest! The brand was founded by a group of artists within their Los Angeles salon and by sharing their work on social media, the groundswell behind the brand was there before a single product was launched. The craftsmanship behind the products and the fun and playful packaging have really resonated amongst stylists and as a result, the salon community in the US really embraced the brand from the beginning. Stylists find the brand really relatable and the authenticity behind the company is something I think the large multi-nationals find hard to replicate. The brand launched with a range of semi-permanent colours and there have already been some exciting additions to the brand, such as the electric neon range we are about to launch.
“We are all operating in a new world where change is happening at such a crazy pace and right in front of our eyes, and our mantra is to embrace this change and not be fearful of it” TELL US THE BRAND PHILOSOPHIES BEHIND THE R+Co AND PULP RIOT COLLECTIONS?
Many brands are focused around one stylist’s perspective, but what makes R+Co unique is that it draws on the experience of a collective of hairdressers including Garren, Howard McLaren and Thom Priano. The goal was to create a super line where each product is a hero shaped by an expert within a specific category. But the brand doesn’t take itself too seriously either – the packaging is playful and engaging and even the product names are relatable for both stylists and consumers (I personally love Death Valley Dry Shampoo). And everything is paraben, sulphate, gluten and cruelty free – not to mention vegan. I think the ethos behind R+Co is very similar to that of Pulp Riot – both brands are incredibly forward-thinking, come from shared perspectives, and both truly embrace the culture of hairdressing.
WHAT IS YOUR PERCEPTION OF THE AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSING MARKET AND WHY IT’S A GOOD FIT FOR THE ROGUE BEAUTY STABLE OF PRODUCTS?
When Chris and I set up Rogue Beauty in 2014, neither of us had worked within the industry in Australia before. I had been in the US and Chris in the UK, so I really don’t think we knew what to expect! I think in some ways that actually worked in our favour. We arrived with no pre-conceived opinions of the industry which allowed us to be completely free and open in how we approached our launch. Thankfully the Australian market, including the beauty media,
have embraced our brands but there’s still such a long way to go. Australian stylists and consumers are extremely forward-thinking and demand the best, so having a suite of brands that are best-in-class have made our jobs a lot easier.
PULP RIOT HAS AN INCREDIBLE PRESENCE ON SOCIAL MEDIA WITH OVER 500,000 FOLLOWERS ON INSTAGRAM. WHAT’S THE SECRET TO THAT SUCCESS?
I think the fact that there are no barriers between those who use the Pulp Riot products and those who made them is a big factor. The brand is extremely relatable and speaks in a language that hairdressers understand. It’s pretty incredible that a brand only a year or so old has built a larger social following than all but a few of the established brands that have been household names for decades. The artists behind Pulp Riot also own Butterfly Loft salon in Los Angeles; one of the world’s biggest salons with 70 stations and more than 100 people working in the space, but what is most unique is their combined model of renta-chair style studio suites as well as their own staff. Tell us how they manage to blend the two so seamlessly. David and Alexis Thurston, the founders of Pulp Riot and owners of Butterfly Loft, were among the first in the US to embrace the notion that the new generation of hairdressers are, in effect, brands in their own right. They market themselves through social media and connect directly with their clients like no prior generation has been able to. David and Alexis embraced this movement by ensuring that their traditional salon space evolved to meet the needs of these stylists. Salon suites have exploded in the US and frankly, they’re going nowhere. I think it won’t be long before we see a similar movement in Australia.
WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM ROGUE BEAUTY BRANDS IN THE YEARS AHEAD?
We’ve just launched our fifth brand within three years so I think our team could do with a breather to be fair! But seriously, we are all operating in a new world where change is happening at such a crazy pace and right in front of our eyes, and our mantra is to embrace this change and not be fearful of it. So hopefully we can continue to ride the wave of this change and build successful and long-lasting relationships along the way. roguebeauty.com.au
ood air ay By Nadine Johns –Alcock
With a background of more than 25 years in long hair styling, becoming the National Education Manager for ghd Australia and New Zealand has felt like a homecoming, but I don’t intend to rest on my laurels. The experiences I have gained across my journey from hairstylist, to salon owner, guest artist, and creative director have helped shape my vision for the future of Education here at ghd. I understand the value of Education, not only to a hairstylist wanting to remain engaged, but also to a salon who needs a team of highly skilled hairstylists on their side. I am proud to stand among my peers at ghd, honoured to be working with such an iconic brand, strengthened by my love for the hairdressing industry, and excited for the future of Education at ghd. There can be no doubt the hairdressing industry has certainly changed over the years, and for the better. The needs of salons have changed, as have the desires of their clients. It can be argued that we are no longer led by the quarterly seasons of European fashion, but are now firmly established in a global village where the cult of celebrity can be accessed, viewed, and copied at any hour of the day. 56
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
Hairdressing education used to be something planned and released with ceremony a year in advance, and delivered according to a timehonoured formula, but the industry is telling me this no longer suits the needs of hairstylists or salon owners. Most of us cannot imagine where we will be in 6 months, what the on-themoment trend will be, and what technology will be most affecting our way of life. This is something we not only understand at ghd, but have invested resources into, making it our focus. For the hairstylists and salons owners we strive to inspire, the future of Education at ghd will be more collaborative, more on demand, and more digital. Our dynamic team of educators are reaching further across their territories to deliver more inspiring, hands-on in salon sessions, and we now offer a range of core and creative online modules, and fast paced how-to videos through our online/digital portal, ghd World. We have also partnered with the online Education booking portal, Piloroo, and we continue to collaborate with industry’s most revered hairstylists.
Not only has the ghd Education strategy been invigorated, but so have our styling tools, with the latest innovative addition to our styling portfolio being the Contour. Contour is the modern interpretation of a crimper – the tool worshipped by session stylists the world over - and designed to create beautiful feature panels in the hair, provide soft and touchable texture, or create effortless volume. Crimping with Contour has been the perfect evolution of fashion’s move from poker straight, through to wave, curls, and big hair. But let’s not jump to conclusions and put straight in the past, because there is a new kind of straight emerging, a smooth, luxe straight that impresses with high shine and softly curves in all the right places. The future of ghd Education is here, and this will be visible more and more over the coming months, not only in Education, but in our ability to remain an innovative leader in thermal heat styling. For more information contact www.ghdhair.com/au
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CRAZY COLOR CELEBRATES 40TH ANNIVERSARY IN STYLE
Crazy Color launched in an explosion that coincided with the very colourful beginnings of the Punk Rock scene and recently celebrated their 40th Anniversary in style at this year’s Salon International.
The brand has been a leader in inventive and alternative colour in the hairdressing world for the past four decades and they certainly brought their prowess to Salon International, on the 14-16th of October, at ExCeL London. The team showcased new products, live demos and Q&As over the course of the weekend with fantastic exclusive show offers available on the Crazy Color Stand. Representing 58
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alongside Marie Nieuwoudt, was Holly Sharpe from B’Me Hair Salon in North Lakes, Brisbane Queensland, creating an Editorial look using the New Sprays (pictured opposite). Holly is a part of the Australian International Industries Education Team, and loves working with Crazy Color from the Salon to teaching all aspects of this creative colour range. 2018 will see Holly educating around Australia bringing her love of Crazy Colour to the masses and we can’t wait to see what she does next!
The brand’s Marketing Executive, Emma Daly says, “The iconic pink bottle is instantly recognisable and used by hairdressing icons, fashionistas, celebrities and those who want to stand out from the crowd across the globe. For Crazy Color to be celebrating its 40th Anniversary at Salon International is a real achievement for the brand. Showcasing at Salon International means we can educate others on all the latest colour technique and products to suit the latest trends.”
For further information or for your local supplier please contact
Australian International Industries on (03) 9764 2833 firstname.lastname@example.org | www.aii.net.au Unit 7c Scoresby Industry Park, Janine Street, Scoresby VIC 3199
Australian International Industries PTY LTD
Supplying the Hair & Beauty Industry since 1974
Welcome to the World of Wella WE BELIEVE IN THE MAGIC OF HAIRDRESSERS THAT IT’S THE HEART THAT MATTERS MOST IN DEVELOPING FAMILY-LIKE RELATIONSHIPS THAT ONLY THE DARING PIONEERS WILL WIN THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY …THAT BEAUTY IS HANDMADE THAT DREAMS ARE MADE IN COLOUR MAURICE TORCASIO BERNICE BARRETT
JIM & LIA KEFALIANOS In the first of our five-part series, we speak to some of Wella’s most influential salon partners on what it means to be part of the Wella Family.
PART 1 MAGIC
noun: the power of apparently influencing events by using mysterious or supernatural forces adjective: having or apparently having supernatural powers
WHEN IT COMES TO HAIRDRESSING AND YOUR PARTNERSHIP WITH WELLA, WHAT DOES THE WORD MAGIC MEAN TO YOU AND WHAT DO YOU FIND THE MOST EXCITING ASPECT OF YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH WELLA? Maurice Torcasio, Rokk Ebony VIC Having been in partnership with Wella for the best part of 2 decades we’ve shared many magical moments. We’ve grown from 1 location to 6 over that time and the magic has been in the relationship we’ve built with the Wella brand.
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
BRODIE LEE STUBBINS
Exceptional results from the product ranges, amazing education, technical and business support, education and creative opportunities have all been part of the magical equation that has assisted in Rokk Ebony’s success. Jim & Lia Kefalianos, Sueno SA As hairdressers, I feel we make magic everyday by giving our clients stunning hair and making them feel amazing about themselves. Partnering with Wella makes this easy by providing us with the tools to make this possible. The opportunity to work on Fashion Week under Creative Director, Renya, was a dream come true, but the most exciting aspect about our Wella partnership is watching our business grow. We feel 100% confident that Wella will continue to guide us and help us achieve our goals with their impeccable industry and product knowledge. Bernice Barrett, Artistic Visions WA I am so excited to be a Guest Artist for Wella. Having the opportunity to be on stage and give back to the industry is magical. I love sharing knowledge and witnessing the growth of so many young people, as well as being involved with creative forums of like minded industry leaders, collaborating to inspire.
Brodie Lee Stubbins, Rokstar QLD Magic is what happens when dreams come alive and that’s how life has been for me over the years working with Wella. It has given me access to working with some of the most exciting hairdressers both overseas and in Australia such as Renya Xydis, Frank Apostolopoulos and Brad Lepper. It’s also provided me with some of the most amazing opportunities available to a hairdresser: Fashion Week and Trend Vision and the chance to be a Wella Guest Artist and give back through education. The most exciting part of my relationship with Wella is that really the possibilities are endless… the sky’s the limit, which is a prospect I couldn’t be more thrilled about! In the next issue of HairBiz we will look at the importance of ‘FAMILY-LIKE RELATIONSHIPS’ To find out more about joining the Wella family, please contact 1300 885 002
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d n u o B Bal i By Linda Woodhead
With guests arriving from all over Australia and New Zealand, welcome Cocktail drinks at the KulKul bar, beachside at the beautiful Laguna hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali, set the scene for what was looking to be a great PH conference to end 2017. Day 1 kicked off with national Sales Manager Craig Sheppard welcoming all delegates and introducing ‘Rocky’, a local Balinese to give us the low down on the area and some of the fascinating history of our surroundings. Keynote Speaker Matt Church continued his presentation from an earlier PH conference with a topic of “Being not Doing”, engaging the audience in areas that covered Grand-parenting mentality, Self correcting, Changing cultures, Sarcasm and Cynicism and Positivity. He asked us to think of 3 inspirational people in our lives and with many choosing grandparents, explained the link between this and how we can encourage and mentor staff by being positive, non judgmental and unconditional. We discussed changing habits and how to increase business by understanding people more, especially in this day and age where we live in a society of referral. Free Pool time for everyone to network, chat and have a few cocktails led us into a trip in the evening to Jimbaren to the beautiful Sundari Restaurant overlooking the ocean to witness a most spectacular sunset.
Continuing the theme of how to be “YOUR BEST YOU”, on Day 2, Matt Church shared some great exercises on how to grade Body, Mind and Spirit, looking at low areas in our lives and how to change them for the better. Following another scrumptious morning tea, we ate a lot on this conference!, General manager David Hahn presented some history of the brand with the announcement that in 2018, Schwarzkopf Professional will be celebrating 120 years of professional services. Unknown to some Schwarzkopf was the original inventor of hairspray, called the liquid hairnet, and more recently the first to bring hair powder to the industry Looking forward to 2018, most of which cannot be divulged here for fear of loosing my life! All I can say is 2018 is looking to eb an incredible year for Schwarzkopf Professional with a theme of the ReInvention of Hair. Re-think, re-colour, reshape and re-fine, is the name of the game and with some exciting launches we will see more inspiring innovation, Education second to none, more digital and user generated content and an increase in the involvement of social influencers. It’s all about driving business success so hold on to your hats! cont’d over page Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
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I had the incredible honour of bringing iconic and legendary hairdresser John Morrey to HairBiz Forum a few years ago and so as we were in his home-country of Bali and he was one of the original founding members of PH, it seemed only fitting to invite him to be interviewed on stage by yours truly. Delegates were treated to a video montage of his incredible career, a trip down memory lane, his personal secrets to success and some great pearls of wisdom. You could hear a pin drop in the room as he, sometimes emotionally, spoke from the heart about his salons, his life, his academy and ultimately how he built the brand to be able to have financial security in the future. Another lovely afternoon at leisure found us once again meeting up for dinner at the neighbouring Marriot hotel for an Indonesian buffet feat, fire twirlers, dancers and more cocktails! One of the highlights of the trip came on day 3 where everyone congregated at reception 66
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to be greeted with an army of convertible VW buggies, 2 police cars and water pistols! Feeling very much like royalty, the Kardashians or even the President of the USA we had a police escort that parted the seas of the Balinese traffic to get us across town and north towards Ubud for a temple visit, amazing lunch in the rice paddyâ€™s and lots of fun along the way. Dinner plans were then up to us with many still meeting up around the local restaurants and the resort strip in Nusa Dua. Final day of conference had many optional activities, including shopping in Seminyak, a cooking class including picking out all of the ingredients at local markets or fishing out near Lembongon island. The final cocktail night and gala dinner was a great way to end things and following day all delegates made their way home or on to other destinations to extend their time overseas. Congratulations to Schwarzkopf Professional once again for a great trip. Shout out to Events Beyond who looked after everyone brilliantly and thank you for including Kellie and myself to come along and witness some great networking, friendship and frivolity!
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CHROMA OPENS SECOND LOCATION
In grand style, Chroma Hair Studio established by Kim & George Astro celebrated the opening of their second salon in Brisbane’s very swanky James Street Precinct. Attending the event were Mocha Publishing, Beauty Compass, Brisbane Weekender, Queensland Magazines & Fashion Weekly.
Starting out in a classic traditional Queenslander building in the Highgate Hill area of Brisbane in 2009, Chroma Hair Studio already showed clear sophistication. Fast forward to 2017 and the studio is now recognized by the biggest names in Australia for its level of expertise, award winning staff training and most importantly it’s care for customers. This year alone, their five entrants into the BHBE Brisbane Hair and Beauty Expo went home with five trophies with Salon Owner Kim Astro bagging first place in Contemporary Colour. In a dazzling level of style, the party began 68
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with a red carpet and paparazzi at the guests’ entrance, snapping shots as guests arrived in a mix of evening wear, sporty and edgy gear. At the end of the red carpet appeared their new, luxurious and beautiful space designed by award-winning, Architect Yuri Dillon from Liquid Blu. VIP guests enjoyed an array of wine, champagne and boutique beer with sumptuous canapés as they were treated to a Hair and Fashion parade in collaboration with James Street designers Lorna Edminston, Milu Ladies & Mens Shoes + Accessories, Lorna Jane & Sabo Skirt. Each guest received a VIP bag, containing luxe items
of more than $300 including Matrix haircare, gift vouchers from Brooklyn Beauty Bar, Merlo Coffee, Lorna Jane Activewear, Waterlily, Fashion Weekly and Chroma Hair with two lucky winners receiving a Perfume Masterclass for 10 people from Libertine Perfumerie. The impressive new location will be managed by dedicated team member Kylie Pollard, who has risen through the Chroma ranks, refining her craft and learning from the best. The team at Mocha congratulate Kim, George and the Chroma team, wishing you many years of success ahead.
With the theme, ‘Kaleidoscope of Colour’, DeLorenzo celebrated 30 years of successful salon partnership with the 15th ASPYA Conference in Bali. Incredible cultural performers and motivational speakers, captured the celebratory spirit and kept guests inspired and entertained. The first day of the conference saw Jane Anderson share her expertise in how to transition from an expert to an influencer. A professional speaker, author and personal branding strategist, Jane provided attendees with tips and tricks to achieve success. Sandy Chong, CEO of the Australian Hairdressing Council, presented thought-provoking industry insights and introduced H.A.I.R., the Hairdressing Australia Industry Register with the aim to tackle ‘kitchen operators’ head on. Sandy inspired attendees to become part of a larger community, encouraging individuals to take the next step to protect their industry and skill. The Battle of the Stylists followed, where contestants from DeLorenzo salons around Australia were judged in three categories; Avant Garde, Editorial and Men’s. Contestants were given 40 minutes to create a style before Guest Artist and Host, Paula Hibbard, led the judging panel of industry and trade media experts to deliver the result. The 2017 DeLorenzo ASPYA Gala Dinner was held at the culturally inspired beachfront venue Taman Bhagawan. The ‘Kaleidoscope of Colour’ theme was embraced with traditional Balinese dancers and musicians welcoming guests, followed by a firework performance that
wowed the crowd. Havana Brown performed a medley of her hits and popular club classics at an exclusive DJ set, which had guests dancing the night away. Roca Verde on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast was named De Lorenzo ASPYA Salon of the Year with ASPYA Boutique Salon of the Year awarded to Lisa Maree’s Hair Design in Victoria. Inspirational speaker and ZING Coach Lisa Conway shared invaluable insights that both entertained and educated before Lisa Messenger spoke about the benefits of working with likeminded businesses to maximise return. Lisa expressed how a ‘can do’ attitude helped her to grow a globally praised publication and brand; The Collective Hub. Finally, DeLorenzo Co-Directors Anthony, Vincent and Chris de Lorenzo, told their story from past to present. From Delva to De Lorenzo, the story stirred emotion in all attendees and further educated on the core brand values that have remained solid throughout the years. The importance of family, loyalty and trust was evident. ASPYA members now eagerly await the 2018 conference, to be held in Auckland New Zealand.
DE LORENZO 2017 ASPYA WINNERS BOUTIQUE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER Lisa Maree’s Hair Design SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER Roca Verde
DE LORENZO 2017 ASPYA FINALISTS SALON OF THE YEAR SECOND PLACE Hair Review SALON OF THE YEAR THIRD PLACE La Unica Salon
DE LORENZO 2017 BATTLE OF THE STYLIST WINNERS EDITORIAL WINNER Kristy Sartori, Zarr Hair MEN’S WINNER Erin Charles, Zarr Hair AVANT GARDE WINNER Brianna Lace, Hoopla www.delorenzo.com.au
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
AHS Kicks fundraising goals
The 35th anniversary Alternative Hair Show, UTOPIA, was always going to be a poignant and emotional evening for founder Tony Rizzo, as indeed it is, every year he remembers his son, Valentino, and continues his personal mission to find a 100% cure for childhood Leukaemia and other blood cancers. Gogen
Robert 70 Cromeans Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
KOHSUKE VISUAL NETWORK
Patrick Cameron and Robert Lobetta
Petra Mechurova Dimitry Vinokurov
It is also an enormous celebration of the artistry and dedication of hairdressers. Brought together on stage at the incredible Royal Albert Hall in London, UTOPIA pushed creative boundaries as each of the Alternative Hair Artistic Teams showed their interpretation of the theme.
THE WINNERS WERE:
Premier sponsor Wella, was thanked for the enduring support the company has given since the beginning of Alternative Hair, and presented on stage the 10 winners of the International Trend Vision Awards.
THE TEAMS SHOWING WERE:
The Charity sponsors for the evening were: Denman, Infringe, Linda Beauty, Parlux, Revlon, Sebastian and TIGI The evening commenced with the International Visionary Award, sponsored by TIGI and presented by Anthony Mascolo, International President of Alternative Hair, together with Tony Rizzo. Each of the finalists in the categories: Cut & Colour, Men’s and AvantGarde, presented one model in what was a colourful and impressive show. It had proven to be an incredibly difficult task to select the winners and all the finalists were congratulated on their entries.
Cut & Colour – Lucian Busuioc Mens’ – Chris O’Riordan Avant-Garde- Jose Garcia Benitez Over the next 3 hours the Artistic Teams from across the globe showed their fantastic work to a totally enthralled audience.
From the UK, SEBASTIAN CREATIVE TEAM From Ireland, HUGH CAMPBELL From France, CYRILL BRUNE From the Czech Republic ,PETRA MECHUROVA From the UK SACO, From Austria, BUNDY BUNDY From the USA, CHARLIE PRICE From the UK, ANNE VECK From Italy, GOGEN From the UK, TIGI CREATIVE TEAM From the UK, SASSOON From Japan, KOHSUKE VISUAL NETWORK From Austria, FEHRINGER From the UK, HOB From the USA, ROBERT CROMEANS From Austria, KLAUS PETER OCHS From the UK, ALAN EDWARDS From Russia, DMITRY VINOKUROV From Italy, CARLO BAY From the UK, SANRIZZ
The second half of the Show opened with the AIPP international awards. Roberto Pissimiglia, President of the AIPP and Publisher of Estetica Network announced the Alternative Hair & AIPP Legends Award that was presented to Patrick Cameron by Robert Lobetta. Patrick then presented the AIPP awards to: Sanrizz, Mark Leeson, Candice McKay, Amparo Carrantala and Jason Hall. Alternative Hair is of course also about raising much-needed funds for Fighting Leukaemia. A film of this year’s Children’s Party, opened the charity appeal. Alternative Hair Host, Linda Evans and Alternative Hair Trustee, Douglas Osborne, introduced the appeal and were joined on stage by Blue Tobin and his family. The appeal wasn’t just about asking people to give generously, but was also an appeal to register as a stem cell donor with www.dkms.org At the end of a wonderful evening, the teams paraded on stage for a final applause as Tony and Anthony thanked everyone for attending the show. Blue Tobin presented the cheque for an incredible £280,626.00 raised by the night! www.alternativehair.org Twitter: AltHairOrg Instagram: AHS_hairshow Facebook: AlternativeHair Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE AT SALON INTERNATIONAL
The hairdressing event of the year returned to ExCeL, for three days of inspiration, education and innovation It was another sensational year at Salon International, with 40,219 guests flooding through the doors of ExCeL London for three days of hairdressing inspiration, education and innovation. Guests from across the globe attended the annual industry extravaganza, which this year also played host to Wella’s International TrendVision international finale. Competitions were a theme throughout the weekend, with HJ crowning their own winners in a series of competitions, all of which were hosted on the show floor. The most prestigious competition in hairdressing, HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional was also one of the standout attractions with the annual unveiling of the 72
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finalists’ and nominees’ images attracting thousands of visitors. British nominees, including the legendary session stylist, Eugene Souleiman rubbed shoulders with guests as they browsed the always-inspirational gallery of images. Hairdressing legends were on hand throughout the show to inspire guests and share their knowledge, both with creative presentations on the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and HJ Stages, and in the Legends Lounge, where Lee Stafford, Charles Worthington, Errol Douglas, Andrew Collinge and Beverly C told the stories of their success.
As the biggest industry showcase in the country, there was no shortage of hot product releases to be found at Salon International. WAHL presented a brand new women’s styling range, with a hairdryer and styling iron, while for ghd it was all about the Contour; their updated take on a crimping iron for texture and volume. It wasn’t just about new releases though, with many brands celebrating big birthdays at the event. Kent Brushes celebrated 240 years, Crazy Colour marked 40 years on their eye-popping stand and Manic Panic brought over their legendary founders Tish and Snooky to kick off their 40th birthday celebrations.
Elsewhere in the show, inspiration was to be found at every stand with leading names including Robert Cromeans, Zoe Irwin and Hooker & Young demonstrating the latest launches from brands, giving the newest product additions their stamp of approval through trend-led presentations.
As well as shopping, Salon International is all about the shows, with Trevor Sorbie, Patrick Cameron, Sassoon Academy, TONI&GUY, RUSH and BaByliss PRO presenting in Salon Live, whilst Mahogany, hosted their ever popular seminars.
Trevor Sorbie Sassoon Academy
CELEBRATING THE INDIVIDUAL WITH SASSOON ACADEMY
Personalised, bespoke looks were at the heart of the Sassoon show. Geometry and precision were the two buzzwords of the show, but while that might bring to mind typical Sassoon cuts, the looks presented were more about taking those two beliefs and applying them to any hairstyle; fitting, given that the other overarching theme of the show was a celebration of individuality. International creative director Mark Hayes opened the show by discussing the demise of trends and the increasing acceptance and celebration of individual beauty. “Hair needs to be in tune with the wearer,” he said. “We need to focus on personality and cut and colour hair for the client, not for us.” Colour opened the show, with UK colour director Edward Darley joined by an international team of technicians representing the best of Sassoon’s colour heritage. Edward explained that he wanted to, “celebrate the craftsmanship of hair colouring again.” He revealed that he wanted to refocus on precision colour and educate a new generation about the artistry of geometry. “We want to go back to what we’re known for,” he said. “That’s not just precision in cutting, but in technical colour too. We want to move away from ombré and free-hand colour and really celebrate the geometry and precision of colour. That geometric approach is what it’s all about, no matter how fluid the end result.” What followed was a series of presentation
models, with individual colours applied based on the model’s personality and preferences – no one-size-fits-all trends, just beautiful, bespoke shades. From vibrant peach and super-natural copper to pale linen whites and silver grey, each model had a look that was all about ‘them’. The cutting section, led by Mark again followed the key themes of individuality and precision. “This isn’t trend-led,” he explained to the audience. “It’s about individualism and eclecticism. Fashion is having an idiosyncratic time right now. There are lots of things to pick and choose from, and that’s exciting.” The “versatile geometry” concept was applied to cuts as well as colours, with precision techniques used regardless of how soft and natural the end look. A diverse array of looks were presented on stage, with model suitability once again the focus of the styles. Looks ranged from soft-edged androgynous crops to longer, hippy-inspired boho layered long styles and – of course – a classic Sassoon bob in a beautiful, flawless blonde. After enjoying the live demonstrations, the sell-out crowd were treated to an awe-inspiring show covering the new Sassoon Salon and Academy collections: Kooky, looks which are vintage and globally inspired, with a mishmash of eclectic styles; Neonoir, which is futuristic, pared-back and strong; Mondaine, which celebrates the immense creativity and
ground-breaking talent and modernist styles of Cristobal Balenciaga and Jejeune, a diverse celebration of non-conformist style.
FASHION FORWARD WITH TONI&GUY
TONI&GUY looked to the future as they debuted their latest collection, Futurewise. The show kicked off with a presentation of the latest label.m collection, We Are Two. A concept which was brought to life on stage through pairings of models. Amongst the models were two new faces Alex and Maya – who were discovered online through the brand’s global social media search for new talent. Next up was the new TONI&GUY FUTUREWISE collection. The story features more than 30 looks ranging from experimental cuts and colours to consumer-friendly, highlycommercial looks. Last year’s triptych of sectioning patterns paved the way for this year’s advanced, creative techniques known as interlocking sections: interlocking angles, interlocking curves and interlocking teardrops. The progression is seen through the creation of focal points and specific areas of detailing to maintain customisation, but in a more editorial and refined way. Looks were all finished with accessories, piled high and curated with irreverence. TONI&GUY is an Official Sponsor of London Fashion Week, London Fashion Week Men’s and London Fashion Week Festival. This long-standing cont’d over page
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partnership (over a decade!) was celebrated with a presentation of models from the most recent Mary Katrantzou collection, which was styled by the team. Voluminous shapes, textured waves and sensational colour all brought to life the pattern-heavy collection of garments. The show closed with a trademark, totally spectacular avant-garde presentation from the brand’s ever-creative Indira Schauwecker and Efi Davies. Inspired by fire, ice, water and air, the show included a snow machine, fire and wind, with the special effects only overshadowed by some spectacular, sculptural, statement avantgarde hair looks that left the crowd clamouring for more.
TREVOR SORBIE IS BACK
Trevor Sorbie made a triumphant return to stage at Salon international to a standing ovation, as a sold-out arena took to their feet to mark his ongoing contribution to hairdressing. Joining Trevor on stage for the first segment of the show was his newest protégé, Tom Connell. Tom follows in the impressive footsteps of names like Eugene Souleiman, Angelo Seminara and Vivienne Mackinder, all of whom started their careers under Trevor’s watchful eye. Described by his mentor as “a genius”, Tom shared his own inspirations as he cut his model’s hair on stage to recreate the flowing lines of a scarf, which he’d seen a woman wearing on the train. Trevor cut hair too, producing a razored cut with head-hugging lines. He explained that for him, being inspired was a motivational tool. “Hairdressing can get boring at times,” he said. “That’s why I want to be creative. I don’t want to be bored, I want to love what I do and I want that for you too; I want you to go to work tomorrow, feeling inspired and excited to be there.”
A second protégé followed Tom and Trevor on stage, as Manchester’s Mai Ha brought to life her trademark avant-garde looks live on stage. HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards finalist created an intricate look made from triangles of tracing paper, inspired by the ethereal couture dresses of Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen. Colour is at the heart of Trevor Sorbie salons, and it was over to international technical director Nathan Walker and art team colourist Zak Twohig to showcase their own innovative inspirations. Both technical wizards took their cue from light, with Nathan gaining inspiration from a video projector in a team meeting. Fascinated by how the light distorted on his body as he stood in front of it, he recreated the technique for his colour placement, projecting the shape of a Venn diagram onto the hair and painting on cyan, magenta and yellow.
Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
For Zak, inspiration came from neon strip lighting, which he’d seen in a video by pop band, The Saturdays. He created his own tube of lighting and held it over the hair to create a literal shine line which formed a guide for his colour. More diverse inspirations were brought to life in the next section, which focused on cutting; Ryan Forsyth creating a tapered razor cut, inspired by the unusual strip of fur on the back of a Rhodesian Ridgeback dog. For James,
it was David Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust mullet, which served as a starting point. While Bowie may be a classic reference, James gave the look his own modern stamp by razoring the cut with a flattopper comb and pairing it with wet-look fingerwaves. There was more colour from salon educators John Spanton and Tiziana di Marcelli, who showcased the artistry and dexterity of their technical skills. John was inspired by fabric and created the effect of stitching in the hair by drawing on intricate lines with pens he found in an art shop. Sold without ink, he filled them with colour and used them to draw minute dashes on the hair which formed the overall effect of a woven texture. Tiziana drew gasps from the crowd with her Jackson Pollock-inspired work, recreating his trademark ‘splatter’ technique to throw colour at the hair. While the technique may have looked random, she revealed that she had spent hours developing the perfect colour consistency so that it didn’t run, but still created that abstract effect. The show’s grand finale came courtesy of Johanna Cree Brown, who presented a stunning model whose look fused fibre optic lighting with wefts to create hair that literally lit up the room, for a truly magical effect. “When I woke up this morning I thought this was going to be my last ever live show,” concluded Trevor as he closed the show. “But I’ve enjoyed doing this so much that now I’m not sure. Never say never!”
ALL THE STARS OF THE SHOW
Patrick Cameron proved why he’s the king of long hair with his latest collection, Easy Classics. In typically effervescent style, he breezed through ten models with a series of simple, take-back-to-the-salon techniques for dressing hair. For BaByliss PRO it was all about rising star, Ky Wilson, who presented Session to Salon; a celebration of runway looks and the techniques and tricks that can be employed to take the looks back to clients in the salon. The Mahogany seminar saw the salon group’s creative team present Curve-Linear, an architecture- inspired collection that’s all about soft, curving lines and a couture colour palette. At RUSH Live, creativity was matched with charity as the team created looks ranging from commercial to avant- garde, all in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital. Looking back on the three-day event, HJ managing director Mark Moloney said: “It was another action-packed weekend of hairdressing inspiration, education and excitement with the show attracting more salon owners, stylists and colour technicians than before, generating great business for our exhibitors. The show is growing each and every year and we’re delighted to attract guests from all over the globe to come and celebrate what’s great about British hairdressing. Salon International is a cornerstone of the industry and it’s an honour to know that it’s such a huge event in the calendar for hairdressers. This industry is worth £6billion and we’re immensely proud to be able to contribute to that.”
MISSION: SALON INTERNATIONAL
business 35 years and is opening new business around the world still to this day.
AGENT: SHARON BLAIN
He says he was bored at a certain stage of his career, which is why he began doing Avant Garde work.Trevor loves to push the team forward and not suppress them, evident in the incredible presentation. The show showed amazing colouring technology, unique cuts and some incredible the paper head pieces inspired by Dutch fashion designer Iris Van Herpen. Plastic filament with lights reflecting through the ends created an absolute show stopper for the the grand Avant Garde finale.
Our roving reporter, representing HairBiz at Salon International this year was none other than the international legendary icon, Sharon Blain who filed this report straight after the show to share with our readers her take on the event.
DAY 1 First stop on Day 1 was the gallery to check out Schwarzkopf Professional, British Hairdressing awards where the finalist collections were unveiling. This is always a must do for me and never disappoints. The standard and skill level for creativity was outstanding and the finalists entries for the British Hairdresser of the Year left me speechless. To see Eugene Soulieman and Sally Brooks as finalists for the first time shows a changing of the guard. Who will win the big one this year is anyone’s guess and it’s too hard for me to predict, so this year I’m not putting my personal tips in as it’s just too hard to call.
TRADE HALL The trade floor once again lacked the presence of the big companies. Though a noticeable shift on the trade floor was the huge growth in men’s grooming products, increased number of stands demonstrating men’s cutting and a huge range barbering equipment. Lots of new product launches from the usual suspects tools, brushes, shampoos and smoothing products. As well as some brands celebrating decades in the industry. The Fellowship stand showcased top hairdressing royalty as well as an appearance by our own Australian FAME Team who did the nation proud.
DAY 2 was all about education and it offered in abundance. On the way to the seminar area we were stopped in our tracks by the completed models from Wella Trend Zoom finalists. It was sheer inspiration. TREVOR SORBIE It was then excitement plus as we waited in the press area for Mr Trevor Sorbie. This is the first time he has appeared at Salon International for 11 years. He presented his first show in London in 1974 and has since travelled the world, teaching and exciting the hair world with his mastery. Such a humble man. The emotion was there for all to see when he took the stage. ‘Inspiration is all around him’ he said and he also noted some the past artistic team who help grow the brand: Eugene Soulieman, Angelo Seminara, Vivienne MacKinder and Brooks & Brooks. Trevor opened his first
The most impressive feature of the entire show was the humility and greatfullness Trevor showed towards his team and the industry. Let’s hope this is not the last time we see the master in action.
PATRICK CAMERON. Easy pony’s is what his collection was all about. Doing very consumer hair looks, that would suit the younger salon clients. Incorporating knotting, braids and loops. Mohawk shapes, asymmetric and nape placement worked in harmony to complement each design. Patrick also introduced an additional collection entitled Easi Classics. Chignon shapes were reintroduced into the collection; the classic nape Chignon, French pleats, and a variation of his classics. The consummated show man, he breezed through 10 different looks, charming the audience with his effervescence personality.
SASSOON’S Next on the list for the day was Sassoon’s much anticipated show. The forever professionals and perfectionists, the show left the audience wanting more. The message was all about bringing the craftsmanship back into colouring and cutting. The shapes, cutting, colours, texture, makeup and fashion gave the audience the creative fix we were expecting. All hail the team lead by Mark Hayes, my feedback ‘brilliant.’
TONI&GUY In contrast to the presentation of Sassoon’s, Toni&Guy was up next with Futurewise, showing a strong commercial direction with their cuts and colour work. The showstopper was their fashion week hair presentation and jaw dropping Avant Garde sections. The snow flakes and fireworks added to the drama. I had to sit and ponder on what I saw…absolute sheer talent no doubt. A trip to London for Salon International is never complete without attending the Alternative Hair Show at the magnificent Royal Albert Hall which we did to witness more creativity and talent, award winners and above all a huge donation to continue the amazing work of founder Tony Rizzo, Sanrizz.
COLOURFUL WORLD COLOUR THAT EXCEDES EXPECTATIONS
HAIR BY TRUC LE HAIRDESIGN AND STUDIO 235
MUA: Jim Jirarnuttaruj Photographer: Elizabeth Maleevsky Stylist: Lekky Wakeley
Hair: Hair by Crazy Color P hotographer: Tony Le-Britton Makeup: P J Maxwell Crazy Color is available in Australia through Australian International Industries. To find your closest supplier visit www.aii.net.au
1. X-FIX LIPS BY STAGELINE Stageline introduces X-Fix Lips; a long-lasting matte liquid lip colour with high coverage in coral, peach, and nude tones. Once X Lips Fix is dry, lips remain perfectly made up for hours without transferring colour to glasses, napkins, etc. and is paraben free. The three new tones include Tone 07, an outstanding orange red; Tone 08 a delicious peach tone with an imposing pink undertone and soft finish and Tone 09, a nude tone to create more natural looks. Ideal for those who prefer to draw attention and highlighting other features of the face. www.lfbi.com.au 2. NEW EIMI BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS Wella Professionals introduces three new innovative products to the EIMI styling collection: Shape Me: A heat-activated hair gel formulated with memorising polymer complex that helps to shape or blow-dry hair the way you want and keep the look for up to 48 hours. Glam Mist: Finish your style with dazzling shine and protect hair from the effects of humidity and UV thanks to this luminous shine spray. Body Crafter: Build volume with a workable texture and craft your style with smooth, flexible control and natural movement with Body Crafter texture spray. www.wella.com
3. TRUEHYDRATE SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER BY HI LIFT TrueHydrate is a new luxurious hydrating range specifically formulated for dry coloured treated hair. 100% vegan, sulphate & paraben free, the range is enriched with amino acids, macadamia & coconut extracts to provide humidity, thermal and UV defence. Available in 350ml & 1 Litre. www.muimports.com.au
4. BEDROOM HAIR BY KEVIN MURPHY Kevin.Murphy introduces Bedroom.Hair, a light, flexible hairspray that adds shine and hold for a lived-in look. Bedroom. Hair leaves hair touchable and moveable while maintaining texture and separation at the same time. www.kevinmurphy.com.au 5. LIMITED EDITION ROSE GOLD STYLE STICK BY MUK HAIRCARE The ultimate tool for creating beautiful hair, the muk Style Stick 230-IR utilises a revolutionary strip of powerful far infrared red lights imbedded in the irons ceramic plate to infuse a gentle heat deep inside the hair shaft. The end result is effectively straightening hair with a single pass, whilst at the same time infusing hair with amazing shine, moisture balance and protection against thermal damage. www.mukhair.com 6. DIAMOND 2 SEATER WASH LOUNGE BY COMFORTEL Totally opulent, plush and indulgent, The Diamond 2 Seat Wash Lounge is a real show stopper. Strong and beautifully formed, the lavish upholstery of weaved textures combined with brushed chrome legs and buckle detail is a timeless statement piece for any modern salon interior. Also available as a 3 Seater Lounge. Customise the look with Optional Tapwear colour with a 4 Star WELS Rating of 7.5L per minute. Comes as pictured with deep White Basin. Black Basin upgrade available or add a matching Designer Ottoman www.comfortel.com.au
Anything that can save time in my life gets the thumbs up from me, so I cannot express how excited I was to being treated to a blow dry not long ago using the NEW LORNA EVANS TIMESAVER BRUSH! Wow! Impressive! Lorna says it will cut blowdrying by at least a third! A hefty claim… and right on the button. Due to its HUGE 160mm barrel, for speed drying, not to mention the lightweight feel for ease of use, greater control with boar bristles and more shine from high grade nylon, even a novice like myself can get a brilliant finish and look in a lot less time. If you haven’t already got one of these babies, I highly recommend you go online and order yourself and all of your staff one not to mention extras for your clients who will certainly want one for themselves! It’s my end of year Publisher Pick and I love it! www.lornaevanseducation.com.au
Linda Woodhead, Publisher
4. NOVAFUSION ROSE GOLD BY DELORENZO Introducing the new De Lorenzo Novafusion Colour Care Shampoo in Rose Gold, providing rose highlights and rose gold tones to blonde hair. The antioxidant rich formulation combines vitamins and minerals while helping to cleanse, protect and nourish hair cells, leaving it feeling soft and silky. www.delorenzo.com.au 5. CLEAN MANIAC MICELAR BY REDKEN Banish build-up and impurities on the scalp and hair with the ultimate cleansing experience. A new sulphate-free, clarifying cleanser inspired by skincare. Micellar Clean Touch Shampoo represents a new generation of hair cleanser using innovative Micellar Technology to gently, but effectively remove impurities. www.redken.com.au 6. TOTAL LUXE WITH THE STACEY PLUSH BY COMFORTEL Fall in love with Stacey Plush with its quilted, rounded shape. A curved, cocoon hairdressing salon chair that’s reinvents classy luxury and makes this salon chair a modern classic. The curved quilted frame and slim, sweeping arms make a striking silhouette while the slender seat cushion adds a luxury feel with additional comfort. The bonus of the open back, means that it’s easy to clean hair. Available in Matte Black or Silver. www.comfortel.com.au
7. TOUCHE CHROMATIQUE BY KERASTASE Breaking new ground in care for colour treated hair, Kerastase Paris launch the innovative new shade-reviving product, Touche Chromatique. The collection not only nourishes colour-treated hair but enhances and corrects colour between salon visits. Touche Chromatique contains direct dyes that enhance salon colour and neutralise unwanted tones in 2 colours: Cool Blonde and Cool Brown. www.kerastase.com.au 8. BRASIL CACAU THE EXPRESS KERATIN BY HILIFT Introducing The Express Keratin, developed by the world’s No 1 keratin manufacturer. This new, state of the art express keratin treatment reduces operator and customer appointment time, has no messy residue and gives stunning long lasting results every time. Available from leading wholesalers www.muimports.com.au 9. SOLAR BY SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL System Professional announce the addition of Solar, a collection employing Helioguard and Heliostore Complex technology which protects hair during and post sun exposure. The range includes Hair & Body Shampoo, Hydro-Repair Conditioner, Sun Oil for UV protection, Sealing Cream for instant combability and Helio Spray for powerful waterresistant UV protection. www.systemprofessional.com
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NOT YOUR AVERAGE BARBERSHOP
Purveyors of cool cuts, close shaves and on-trend styles, RazorSmiths is set to challenge your grooming expectations. Merging the nostalgia of the gritty 20’s with some very modern touches, it’s the barbershop reimagined for the modern man. Think an inimitable laid-back vibe, retro ‘Who dunnit’ pinball machine as well as a carefully curated whiskey cart, all tucked away at the end of Smith Street, Collingwood. Created by acclaimed Xiang Hair owner Tom Donato with partners in crime Andrea, Jamie and Danni, RazorSmiths sees Lead Creative Nissa at the helm, accompanied by Junior Creative Moe and an eclectic crew of new age barbers. Having studiously honed their clipper and razor skills alongside the best in the business over in London, they are now excited to encourage locals to discover and embrace their unique style. Clients are promised an experience at the cutting edge of male grooming every visit, with the menu board featuring the ‘Style Cut’ for the classic gent looking to impress or the ‘Clipper Cut’ for a solid uniform finish and statement style. There is even something for the smallest of gentlemen with ‘The Junior’- the perfect way to introduce 5-12 year olds to the barbershop rite of passage.
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But the pièce de résistance is the ‘Signature Shave’ - an homage to the oft forgotten art of the old-school razor blade shave. The hot towel, the carefully lathered foam, the closest shave possible, all followed up by a luxurious mini facial. Everyone who experiences it is set to walk out the doors a new man. Rocking a little facial hair? No problem. They don’t only specialise in taking them off, they are also masters at keeping them on- RazorSmiths never met a mane they couldn’t tame and with the current crop of hirsute men wandering Melbourne’s streets, they have their work cut out for them. RazorSmiths feels like visiting your mate’s place, but the coolest mate, the one everyone always wants to hang out with. The fit out is truly every guys ultimate hangout brought to life with toolboxes as work spaces, exposed brick walls, industrial workbenches, heavy duty factory lighting and vintage inspired shop chairs setting the scene. Add in that pinball machine and the ever-evolving whiskey cart and, at RazorSmiths, customers are actually hoping to be kept waiting! RazorSmiths is situated at 342 Smith Street, Collingwood, VIC www.razorsmiths.com.au IG. @razorsmiths FB. RazorSmiths
Natural wave pompadour with a low bald fade. Savillsâ€™ Joth Davies shares the techniques he uses to achieve one of his signature cutsâ€Ś
STEP 1 Use the Wahl Beret trimmer to create a mapping line for the bald fade, keeping the line low due to head shape and low hair density. Make sure you allow weight in the corners to maintain correct shape.
STEP 2 Use the Wahl Finale up to 2-3mm below the original mapping line, using gentle strokes and working from multiple directions for a super close finish.
STEP 3 Use the Wahl Magic Clip Cordless with desired Wahl Premium Guide Comb (in this case a #2) to follow parallel approximately 2 to 3 inches above the original mapping line, blending as you go. Use an arc or C shaped motion with your clipper depending on hair density.
STEP 4 Use the Magic Clip Cordless with the next lowest Wahl Premium Guide Comb (#1.5) with the taper lever open 1 to 1.5 cm parallel just below your last blended #2.
STEP 5 Repeat step 4 using #1.5 guide comb with the taper lever closed 0.5 to 1 cm lower. Repeat previous step using #1 guide comb with taper lever open 0.5 to 1 cm lower. Repeat previous step using #1 guide comb with taper lever closed 0.5 to 1cm lower. Repeat previous step using no guards with taper lever open 0.25 to 0.5 cm lower. Repeat previous step using no guards with taper lever closed 0.25 to 0.5cm into original base line that was created with the Beret trimmer.
STEP 6 Finish edging and line out around the temple with the Beret.
STEP 7 Cut top to desired length with square layers and then style.
Available at all Wahl Wholesalers www.wahlpro.com.au www.wahl.co.nz Photos by Dominic Gregory www.zerovisuals.com Hair by Joth Davies | Model - Nick Robinson Baker
Simone Lee THE PROOF IS IN THE PICTURE Sophisticated trichoscopic imaging, technologically advanced styling tools and hairceuticals, which focus on hair health and wellness, are set to pave the way for new scientific innovative practices and service offerings for salons.
Hairceuticals combine cosmetic and pharmaceutical biologically - active ingredients which denote ‘drug like’ benefits, clinical inspiration and efficient action. Top brands over the past few years have steadily been moving away from damaging technologies and offering new tools which condition and repair, most notably the new Dyson hair dryer. The combination of hairceuticals with hair health styling tools and technologies, where benefits may be monitored and proven by the stylist, by simply taking a series of trichoscopic imaging of their guests’ hair and scalp over time, is set to provide a new frontier for hair stylists. This will enable the offering of ultra hair care advice for salon guests and exciting new business and marketing models for creative practices.
images of guests’ hair and scalp are captured by wireless trichoscopes and stored. The salon artists are able to compare effectiveness of recommended retail products, hair colours and even their cutting techniques, by monitoring hair strands through trichoscopic images. This practice has enabled my staff to think about what scissors they use for which hair type and style design based on pictorial evidence from magnified image collection of their guests’ hair ends. Guests who choose to utilise and participate in this hair health package offered by the salon are also shown how quickly their hair ends became split after their hair is cut, how the hair interacts with different lengths and just how well some brands of hair care products are working for them when compared to others. The case study below shows the amazing results the salon’s new hair health range Activance Professional has had for the patient. The proof really is in the picture.
Recently I visited a prominent salon while overseas. During my treatment process, I overheard another salon guest showing the hair colourist images of her hair colour that she had taken on her phone, week by week for six weeks, after she had her hair coloured. The guest explained that she was not happy at the rapid rate at which her colour was fading. The hair stylist appeared to be in a state of shock and disbelief as the guest continued to loudly exclaim that she had purchased Scalp Vertex of participant all of the recommended shampoos, prior to use of Activance conditioners, treatments and styling Professional Densify 03 aids and still her colours were just not lasting. In this scenario I could only think of how my salon operates with full Trichoscopic scalp and hair imaging available for our guests prior to all services, that allow the team to tailor unique styling packages for their guests based on personalised, accurate results. Magnified 86
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Case Study 209 Scalp Vertex 10 Weeks after using AP Densify 03
Australian Institute Of Trichology Understanding Trichoscopy Education Class for their guests instead of considering hair and scalp health first and foremost may change as the consumer does, with their ability to monitor results with their smart phones! Recent statistics from Harvard University state that millennials trust science ahead of anything else. Will the new, younger entrant into the hair industry be more science-focused in the years to come, instead of being creative fashionfocused which has been a driving force for many years now? This is an important question to ask ourselves as an industry with a rapid decline in new apprentices entering and the drop in completion rates. Are these poor statistics a result of the level of hair science taught by RTOs, especially when compared to just a few years ago? It certainly is an exciting time to be a hair stylist, Trichologist and artist.
More and more consumers have the ability Simone Lee is the global ambassador for Activance www.activancepro.com.au with high mega pixel smart phones to analyze their appearance and gauge effectiveness of cosmetic treatments. So what does this mean for hair salons? The percentage of artists who focus mainly on creative artistic inspirations
H E A LT H Y H A I R M E A N S BEAUTIFUL HAIR The health of your hair starts with the health of your scalp. That’s why Activance Professional brings you the latest innovation in hair health: Densify. Our advanced, fragrance-free Densify treatments combine protective antioxidants with powerful Rhodanide, a natural nutrient that’s vital for hair growth. Regular use of Densify results in a healthier scalp, leading to naturally healthy hair with added thickness, strength and shine. E X C L U S I V E LY
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“Activance is the most successful product we have had in our salon in 30 years to help with hair loss and scalp problems, the results speak for themselves.” Jo, Dale James Salon, Perth
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W W W. A C T I VA N C E P R O . C O M . A U
YOU HAVE THE PONY POWER As I write this column, I’ve just finished an incredible event in Brisbane where 30 Year 12 Students at Redeemer Lutheran College chose to lob their ponytails off for charity. Not only did they sacrifice their beautiful hair, but these young women also banded together to raise more than $8,000 for their chosen charities Love Your Sister and Daughters of Cambodia. Sustainable Salons Australia collects ponytails from salons all over Australia and redirects them to various charitable organisations such as Variety, The Children’s Charity to make wigs for Aussies with cancer and alopecia areata. Since SSA launched in 2015, this has become one of our most embraced programs – we’ve collected more than 10,000 ponytails! Of course, this is a nice thing to do, but people often ask how this is considered ‘sustainability’. Are we off-brand at SSA? The opposite! Before SSA, I was a salon hairdresser for 20 years, and do you know how many ponytails I carefully cut off to donate for charitable wigs in that time? Zero. Zip. Not one! No one ever told me that other people could actually benefit from my clients’ ponytails. I mean, they clearly didn’t
want or need them anymore! Will.i.am said “Waste isn’t waste until we waste it”… and that’s it in a nutshell. At a very simple level, when dumped in landfill, valuable ponytails become wasted resources that someone who needs them now can’t access. When we dig deeper, this program is about sacrificing something we have in excess to fill another’s basic need (equal distribution of resources… ultimate sustainability!). When we help lift someone to a better place, we’re creating a community where every person is an active, confident, contributing member… now imagine how strong that community’s future looks. When we first approached the ponytail donation process, there was not even half the amount of hair needed coming through to the correct channels. Variety needs at least 4,000 ponytails each year to make enough wigs… and this is just for the kids! When you add the number of adults in need, well, that makes this awareness even more vital. It takes 20 ponytails to make just one wig, so every ponytail matters. Here are a few tips for ensuring each ponytail is correct when sending to SSA: • Ponytails must be at least 20cm long from the hair tie at the top to the ends. • We take them coloured or uncoloured! However, children’s wigs require minimum 35cm of virgin hair; so if you have a willing donor with amazing natural, long hair, why not encourage them to go a few centimetres shorter?
• Ponytails less than 35cm and coloured are sent to charitable wig-makers who grade the ponytails according to the wig requirements they have at the time. • Ensure the ponytails are clean, dry and secured tightly at the top, plaited, then secured tightly at the bottom. It’s really that simple! A couple of inspiring young women at an event we did earlier in the year at Sydney’s Wenona School proudly stood in front of their peers and said: “It’s easy for us to make this huge difference because we don’t have to do anything to grow our hair, it just happens. We may end up with short bobs, but our hair will grow back. For many going through treatment, it may not for a long while and that can affect their self esteem.” This is what makes a ponytail donor so special, and this is why SSA celebrates them wholeheartedly, often and publically. You and your clients hold an incredible power to improve the life of someone who is going through something they didn’t ask for, don’t deserve and can’t control… you guys have pony power! You don’t need to be in an SSA serviceable area to get involved! You just need your scissors, a willing client, a few hair ties, an envelope and a stamp… then head to Facebook @ SustainableSalonsAustralia for the address to send them to! If you’d like to present your client with a donor certificate, please include their name and your salon’s return mailing address with the ponytails. www.sustainablesalons.com.au
CHLOE Styling Chair with Omega Brushed Round Base
SIENNA Workstation/Mirror with Natural Walnut Bench Option
2 DRAWER Hairdressing Trolley
BARCELONA 2 Seat Waiting Sofa with Black Leg Option
METAL BOXES Rectangle or Square Display
BLOG SPOT. WHY AM I NOT RICH YET? Since my last blog here for Hair Biz, I was lucky enough to host Belinda & Carl Keeley as they presented their Financial Management For Salon Owners workshop. This came at a great time for me as it was the first time in 23 years I actually sat back and had thought ‘where does all our money go?’ We make it. I see the figures and one big question pops into my head….Why am I not rich yet? I am very fortunate to always have had busy salons even though we have the quiet patches too. Maybe a few 45 minute gaps throughout the week, but generally we are “busy” all the time. We have grown from one salon to two just eighteen months ago and I would by lying if I said it was easy. We had this amazing business and decided to split a bit off, just like taking a cutting from an existing plant to grow a new one. Doubling our overheads and doubling our income. Yeah, right! But they say from little things big things grow. Anyway, the Keeley course found me in a perfect place of wanting to know more. If you don’t know Belinda & Carl they are the Dynamic Duo that run two salons in Victoria known as CHUMBA. Belinda also has her Education brand Belinda Keeley Education. They have many years in salon life across a few countries, and are so giving with their information of how they operate their salons. Carl had our group of 12 doing homework before the event. I was absolutely crapping myself at some of the spreadsheets, and in typical Kirstie fashion - being a naughty kid, I always kind of cheat. I did the bare minimum
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because I was too busy and after 23 years in business, I know everything right? Well actually… no! My first major realisation was that whilst I am BUSY doing “stuff”, always non-stop, day, night, in bed, in the car, working away, I am taking time away from my children and husband, and LIFE. It made me question where I’m spending my time, and is this the most important thing for my business? We all get the same amount of hours, but am I living the life I want? In short the answer was no. I felt tired and frazzled from actually starting a new business. I was a mouse on a wheel doing what I had always done but without thinking why. I am the CEO off my own enterprise; one that I have created! Why am I spending hours on Instagram & Facebook? There are people who specialise in that. I need to be on the numbers. Yes, the numbers. I see all your faces screwing up as you read that, but I can easily say after attending this course, my work life balance will change for the better and I will save myself at least 50 thousand dollars! I am now questioning every item we purchase; the mark up, the return. I am questioning if we are doing business with the right companies. I am looking at our services and making sure we are on track with the time we are spending on those services. Time is a money and as I look around my salon, I now am seeing EVERYTHING with dollar signs of what cost is attached. The best thing about our hairdressing industry is the sharing. So, if you want a kick up the Salon Backside, book in to go along. This comes highly recommended by yours truly! www.belindakeeley.com/business-education Or connect with me here facebook.com/WoohooSalon Instagram/woohoosalon email@example.com
BLOG SPOT. THERE ARE SEVEN DAYS IN A WEEK, AND “SOMEDAY” ISN’T ONE OF THEM
Who gets in a rut? I think it’s easy to get in a rut… sometimes you just kind of exist. We go through our dreary work lives living one day to the next. You are working but not really ‘there’. One day becomes a week, one week becomes a month and then you have just wasted another year. I recently had a staff member ask me this question, “How do you stay so motivated?” How can I travel, get up early to go surfing, do the kids stuff and have time for 2 businesses and everything else? I was kind of in shock when he asked … Because I guess I just do. It did make me think and to be honest I have the most supportive life and business partner ever in Mel who does 90% of the kid stuff and if I’m honest 90% of the business stuff except the hair bit. So I guess that’s how! If you are the boss how do you get out of a rut? We all spend so much time and energy keeping our teams motivated and keeping them on targets, but if the salon owner is off their game, the whole damn thing can fall apart. Change is the only thing constant and if you don’t change your behaviour you will never get yourself out a negative cycle. You have to change the time you go to bed, change what you eat, start exercising, change the type of exercise you do and look after yourself first. Foster your important relationships and get rid of toxic ones. DRINK LESS (I’m just reminding myself). I think it’s hard as the boss but you have to be the shiny version of yourself for your staff - no ones likes a grumpy boss who is in a rut (that’s when you loose staff). CHANGE your patterns and behaviours. How can you tell if your staff are in a rut? I think if your team are not coming to work looking sharp, excited for the day and motivated to do good work, they are in a bit of a rut. If they are not hungry to excel and beat their best figures in home hair care, in rebooking they are just going through the motions. Might sound
harsh but are you paying them to be a C or B player? A Players are the profit centres off your salon, find them and support them. Can staff actually change their habits? This one rings true with me. The staff member that promises change, that says they want to change and maybe for 2 or 3 weeks after your chat they do… But how long does it last? My wife had a conversation with a psychologist who told her an alarming statistic: only 25% of people who think about making changes in their lives actually do anything. Why? Because change is scary and familiar is comfortable. The only way to make your life turn out differently is to DO THINGS DIFFERENTLY!! Learn new things, challenge yourself! And if you work for someone but you are in a rut ? Why? Do you like your job? I’m not saying quit. Do you respect your boss? Do they challenge you? They pay you and to be honest you should want to work harder and smarter so you can increase your earnings. If you think you are in a rut, and you like your job, it’s time to take action.
YESTERDAY YOU SAID TOMORROW Find the good in the situation Beware of your negative thoughts… don’t let them weigh you down. Try and find the good in the situation, whatever situation you’re in. Appreciate what you have I see so many instagram or Facebook posts saying grateful, blessed etc… but really look at what you have, and realise that we are all lucky. We live in Australia, the sun shines every day, you have fresh food and water and free health care, and your have a job, compared to 90% of the world you are filthy rich! Appreciate your friends and family and take a minute to actually be grateful for the good things in life. Don’t compare yourself to others, EVER.
Listen to podcasts One of the best ways to get yourself out of a rut is listening to a podcast. There are loads of people ready to give you useful chats to motivate you out of your current space, and you can listen on the bus or in the car on the way to work - Ted talks, Mindset zone and Stuff to blow your Mind are just a few. Slow down I think rather than going at hundred miles an hour, slow it down. Think, connect with yourself, enjoy the moment, enjoy the process and don’t do the head miles about what could happen. Enjoy the small things Simplify your life. ENJOY the sunrise, the ocean, the bird that lands on the ledge, the flowers in the garden. I’m not religious but I love life. A great mate of mine had some personal tragedies that could have set him back years, but I have loved watch him transform adversary into the best bucket list ever and slowly tick them off. Life is short, enjoy it. Find your passion Whether it’s painting hair, surfing or exercising, Do shit you like. Travel, volunteer, be the best parent you can be. Love what you do and do what you love. Spend time with like minded Don’t please people! Spend time with people that have similar thought processes as you, those that laugh and enjoy life. That’s my thing, I can’t be bothered to hang with people that do my head in and are Debbie Downers. All of my friends are engaged with life and motivated to live well and enjoy themselves, and these are the people I choose to surround myself with. They support me and I support them and together we are all better! BIG LOVE, STEVIE Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
5 COMPELLING REASONS TO GROW UP ABOUT SALON APPRENTICES! By Tara Sharland
I hear it rumbling through our industry: Where have all the good people gone? Remember when they used to line up for a shot at a hairdressing apprenticeship? Why can’t I get quality staff? I need more applicants to choose from! Maybe the solution is simpler than you think. Maybe you’re just looking in the wrong age group.
Sure, things have changed. When I applied for my hairdressing apprenticeship I was up against eight others. These days, the road to recruitment often serves up little more than tumbleweeds. The numbers don’t lie. Trade participation is at an alltime low, with 2016 trade enrolments down by 10.8% compared to 2015. The decline’s been steady since 2012 and it’s not just hair and beauty. Some 60% of trades are experiencing skill shortages and the completion rate for both trainees and apprentices remains just under 60%.
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So, how do you remain positive and keep up your search for top-calibre people for your team? Where can you look to fill these roles? I suggest you open your eyes to all applicants and stop ruling out minorities, particularly mature age candidates. When I reflect on my 8 years of salon ownership, I know my most successful trainee was a mature age apprentice. She was a stand-out on all levels. Here are five things I learnt from training and working alongside her:
1. LIFE EXPERIENCE IS UNBEATABLE
There’s nothing better than a new team member who hits the ground running and adds exceptional value to your team from day one. Mature age apprentices come toting a ready-stocked toolbox of workplace experience and life experience. No having to “parent” them on the importance of arriving punctually, managing their time, ironing their work clothes or being courteous on the phone. They’re more likely to chat confidently with your clients (see #3 below) and know how to handle money and
EFTPOS. Chances are they can even make a great cuppa! You save time on coaching the basics, and can get on with training the important stuff like techniques and team culture.
2. THE PRICE IS RIGHT
How so, when mature age apprentices attract higher wages than younger team members? Because the wage is more sustainable. The mature age apprentice is more likely to survive on what you pay them rather than have to supplement their income with a second job. So they stay focused on the apprenticeship, on doing well, on helping you achieve your salon goals. And because you’re paying more, you’ll be more accountable about getting the best value from your apprentice, providing them with more growth opportunities to ensure you recoup the cost of their wages. You’ll elevate them quickly beyond a glorified cleaner role to hands-on, client-facing and revenue generating. That’s a win-win for everyone.
“Mature age apprentices come toting a ready-stocked toolbox of workplace experience & life experience.” 3. READY TO BOOST YOUR CLIENT EXPERIENCE
A mature apprentice comes equipped with confidence gained through life experience – natural relatability that transcends across to your clients of all ages. It can take months (even years) to teach a younger trainee how to relate naturally on a professional level. This ability to adapt and engage with your clients boosts the salon experience you provide. You’ll soon see that ability to build and nurture your client relationships reflected in added value and increased rebookings.
4. GRATEFUL FOR THE CHANCE TO SHINE
The mature age apprentices I’ve come across truly appreciate the opportunity to grow in a career they’re passionate about. They’re not here because the school careers counsellor told them hairdressing was a good fit. They’re here because they want to be; they’ve made a conscious, grown-up decision to make a living doing what they love. And they’ve already overcome a huge hurdle – the perception by some in our industry that youth is everything.
Once given the opportunity to shine, they almost always excel. When I think back to my mature age apprentice, I remember her energy, how she never stopped still in the salon, how she always looked for what came next. Her personal drive and initiative meant she was fully booked and blitzing industry standard targets at the end of her training, even outperforming senior team members.
5. YOU HAVE ACCESS TO ALL THE SUPPORT YOU NEED
When I took on my first mature age apprentice, I was only 23 years old. No one had taught me leadership skills and team management. Looking back, I could have done with some expert help! Fast-forward a few years to when I took on my second mature age apprentice. This time, I took advantage of a local government mentor available for apprentices. That support helped me navigate the tricky and complex issues, and take leaps and bounds in the right direction. Around the same time, I started
working with a salon coach who supported me to step-up as a leader. You have many options around you to access the support you need to get the best outcomes for you, your salon and your apprentice. You just need to step-up, seek out the right people and ask for help. Now, you know. When searching for the next amazing individual to join your squad of awesome stylists, don’t narrow down your options by closing the door on mature age applicants. Your limited belief around their price and value is misplaced – they represent incredible potential talent and value. No matter what age your apprentice is, your job is to support them to grow and show them how to shine so your clients get to experience amazing things in your salon, and you get to experience the business success you deserve. For more salon savvy, email ZING Coach Tara Sharland firstname.lastname@example.org or visit www.zingcoach.com.au Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
WORDS AND ACTIONS… TRUE IMPACTS! By Kelly Kent
What is in a word? Sticks and Stones will break my bones but names will never hurt me! An old saying and indicative of different times. How we have all moved forward from this statement...but have we?
I think I need to make it clear that I love this industry and the life I have lead because of it. I love the characters in it and all they offer. We are already in the industry, we are converts so why is it we are all struggling to get staff? I feel like this is all our industry is talking about now...how hard it is to get staff! Apprentices and Seniors and I and many others have written so much on it! How to write an advertisement, where to advertise, how to interview, what to offer, training and incentives…. OMG the list goes on and on...but still the conversation seems to revolve around how hard it is to get staff and where do you get them from?
Let’s start with WORDS…
I’ll cover a few of those things: yes, we pay to train people and they get to keep their education for life. Don’t forget that we get to use what we teach them along the way to create our income too; it’s not a oneway street. Yes, if they went to university, they would end up with HECS debt and have to get a part time job to support themselves. In all likelihood now at the end of their university qualification, they are regarded highly by others but would likely only get paid what a tradesperson does and find getting a job difficult - they certainly start at the bottom.
And I am going to start at the beginning... apprentices. Tell me what is it that you hear from others about the way that apprentices are treated? If you were as empowered as young people are today and by that I don’t mean entitled; I mean willing to respect yourself and the way that others treat you, would a hairdressing
On the topic of education, I think we are aligned in terms of its importance however the cost is HIGH! And most are not making enough profit to pay that cost. The time to train them yourself is hard to find as we are short staffed; we now have to pay for people to attend training as well as the cost of the course and the cost of not
So here are some more of my thoughts and some research that I have done:
apprenticeship be your first choice of occupation? What exactly are the redeeming features of an apprenticeship? The hours, the pay, the expectations, the way you are spoken to or the title that you get? Interesting when you look at this as an outsider.
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having that person in the salon! The cost is high! However completely necessary... what to do? INCREASE YOUR CHARGES! Hours have always been interesting however there are so many other occupations where the hours are worse and they are still getting people lining up to do those jobs! Let’s look at essential services like Police, Fire and Ambulance Services. There are applications a mile long and they work 24/7, so I think if other expectations aligned, hours are not our problem. I believe that penalty rates should apply for after hours and for weekends as this is an incentive for people to work but how do you pay these higher rates when you wages % is already enormous? INCREASE YOUR CHARGES! The expectations….is this a question that you ask your applicants? What is it that you expect to be doing in your first year? I bet you do! What do they say? I ALWAYS get - “Oh, I know most of the time I will be cleaning and maybe washing hair!” How incredibly inspiring! Hold me back, I just want to do an apprenticeship! I have completely changed the way that we train our apprentices…. don’t worry I still can’t get any…. However, this has helped
me keep the odd jewels that we do get. In the first week, we have them blow-drying, putting colours on each other or models, dolls heads hair up and foils and yes …..they still clean and wash hair. The reason they come to us is to be a hairdresser; they are creative and they want to play not clean the toilet! I know all that stuff has to be done but an apprentice is a student of our craft not a slave. Clive Allwright recently posted regarding the difference between a salon “tea and tidy” helper as opposed to an apprentice - it was gold! Oh, I know that we all did I t and that our training was like being in the salt mines, but we have to change if we want quality applicants ….or any for that matter! We as a whole, have to entice people back to this industry- it’s up to us all. The title: OK, my least favourite title is “the junior” or “my junior”. OMG, how inspiring is that title and I hear so many hairdressers, managers, trainers and salon owners still using that terminology! What’s in a word? What is in a title? A LOT! In fact, EVERYTHING! First years; shit-kicker; yep I got told that one only yesterday and to be honest that is what inspired this whole article. Please… whatever title you use in your salon, ensure it’s motivating or describes the task/position. We use ‘Assistant’ as without their assistance I cannot do my job. We explain frequently that they are the most important part of the team - the linchpin. I also feel at times that our basic manners fade in relation to these people, as well as the tone of our voice and even the frustration in our requests. Yes, they can be frustrating as they do not intrinsically know what to do and how to do it. Yes, you have told them what feels like a million times what to do and how to do it and maybe you have even created lists but guess what…… that-is-your-job! It’s everyone in the salon’s job. In my salon, I expect that anyone working on you is introduced to you. If that person is an apprentice, they would be introduced this way… “Kelly (client), this is Alex (apprentice); she is my Assistant and she is going to wash your hair for you today. Alex, can you please use the blah blah (range) and do XX treatment? Thanks!” I also thank the Assistant when my client returns. Now you may do this already and if you do, good on you, but we are not the “norm” it seems when you are talking to young ones. Sad but true. I know running a business is hard work, frustrating at times and tiring. You get jaded as sometimes you haven’t had the right team and things haven’t worked out but if we want more people to come into our industry I think we really need to clean up our act. We need to move into this decade and get our heads around what these kids think about; what motivates them and create roles around those expectations that still work for our business. It can be done! Employing (staff) today has to be a two-way street.
All of this said, I am a tough old bird! I am not a pushover; however I am fair – there is one rule that everyone follows. I am clear and you know where you stand. I explain my decisions, not justify them, and the impact on the business as a whole. I live by my rules too. When you work for me, you get rewarded with training, experience as well as financially and if you leave and apply in another salon in our area, you get the pick of the jobs. Let’s be honest; it’s not too hard to get a job in hairdressing anywhere these days!!!! Enough of words: what about our ACTIONS??? Most salons are understaffed. Most salons can’t get staff - senior or apprentices. Most owners are the most productive people in their salon and most salon owners are terrified to rock the boat! Most owners are so worried that their team will leave if they apply any pressure on them, that in essence this means that although you may have the title of owning the salon and all the privileges that go along with that - the stress, bills and all the other privileges (yes, I am being sarcastic!), your team is running your salon, not you! Sorry …..but this is often the case. What do I mean? Again, if we look at this group of people we are trying to encourage to come into our industry and what their expectations are, they expect FAIRNESS! Yep…. Fairness. This means that team members behave as a team, which means one in all in! A team helps each other out not when they feel like it but all of the time! Of course, you say...so what do I mean? The term ‘team’ runs off our tongues easily but we all know they are way harder to create. In so many salons that I visit, senior hairdressers are above it all. They don’t clean, they don’t help each other out, they don’t shampoo, they don’t do hair-up, they don’t retail, they just DON’T! WTF? I don’t do ‘I don’t’! I do ‘This is what the salon and the clients want, need and expect’ and not just my clients; every client in the salon. It’s about the salon and the team, not an individual! I let my team know and I am very clear that everyone is responsible for every task in the salon. I know that the seniors create the income
to employ auxiliary staff, however without those people, apprentices, tea and tidies and receptionists, their job is a hell of a lot harder and they cannot be as successful or productive. So, one in all in. Everyone makes coffee, everyone sweeps the floor, everyone washes hair, everyone goes to the shops, everyone does tasks, everyone does morning and evening jobs because everyone is employed to make our salon the best and it takes more than great hair to create a successful business and team. I make my team uncomfortable (that’s probably why it’s small, lol!) Everyone wants to know what their limits are and how far can they push it and this includes salon owners. By this I mean it’s not ok to have a “bad day”; one where you just can’t be bothered. That’s just not ok. The clients come expecting the best and that’s what they pay for; that’s what they deserve! We all have “life” happening, but that shouldn’t impact on clients or other team members. I expect my team to perform every day to the best of their ability. Happy for them to have a dummy spit out the back but then walk out with a smile on their dial and do all that they can for the person in their chair. What I am saying is that is up to each and every one of us to make our industry more attractive. Think about it...if you had your time again with the choices kids have today, would you be hairdressing? I would! I love it! Put yourself in their shoes and before you say it...they will never do the same until they own a salon: why should they? We need to get back to the days when we could pick and choose applicants, when this industry was an industry of choice, inspiration and creativity, when young people wanted to be a hairdresser! The career you could take anywhere. Trade well in the lead up to Christmas. For anyone wanting to overhaul the salon, make more money and make owning a salon easier, January is a great time to set some goals for the year ahead. Jump onto www.craniumconcepts. com.au and see if there is something there to help you out. All of my contact details are there too. Merry Christmas have a happy and safe New Year my friends xox www.craniumconcepts.com Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
6 SINS SALON OWNERS MAKE ON SOCIAL MEDIA & WHAT YOU CAN DO TO AVOID THEM By Tahlia Shorter
Salon owners are notorious for being busy, run off their feet and wearing all the hats the business needs to keep afloat. It’s no surprise that when you’re trying to get everything done, your social media feed may pay the price.
While it may seem that anyone can do social media (and to some extent this is true), there are a few things you can do make sure it isn’t obvious that you may not quite be ‘all over it’. Social media can truly make or break a brand, so it’s extremely crucial to remember that it must not only be handled with care, but handled professionally. Here are 6 of the top mistakes salon owners make on social media, and how you can easily avoid them while developing a can’tresist-must-follow social media strategy for your salon.
LAZY SCREEN SHOTS
The last thing you want your audience to think when it comes to your salon and your brand is that you’re not putting in any effort. You have enough on your plate running your business, so it’s a given that if 96
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you’re in charge of socials, no doubt you’ll do most of it from the comfort of your smartphone - on the go. Don’t make the mistake of screenshotting something you see and then posting that exact snapshot from your phone’s gallery into your socials. To put it bluntly, you don’t want to appear unprofessional with the icons that sit at the top of your screen – you know what we’re talking about…battery life, WIFI connection, the time of day, and oh yes…you’re with OPTUS! Most phones have edit features that pop up as soon as you take a screenshot. The latest Apple iOS and Samsung software offers the ability to crop features to the shape and size you need. Get rid of those extra bits you don’t need your audience seeing. Cop it! There really is no excuse.
One of the greatest things about social media is the ability to not only keep track of other salons and see what they’re doing to engage with their audiences, but connecting with those businesses and watching for those amazing shots they keep putting up! Platforms like Instagram allow you to share any images you think might be a great addition to your viewers, but watch out for any that have their brands plastered all over the picture. This can include photos of other people’s staff or clients, and of course the name of the salon in the background. It’s nice to share posts, it tells others that you are part of a community, but limit these because you don’t want to give the impression that the photo is yours. You will have to give credit where credit is due, and unless the shares
are from a sister-salon, keep in mind you’ll be sharing the image of a competitor.
There are so many great and amazing apps out there to put a collection of photos together in one image, and they work beautifully for personal posts, but what about for your salon? For a business, collages look slightly inelegant, especially when one collaged image sits uncomfortably among a group of beautiful one-photo posts on your account. Try not to focus so much on quantity; instead, look at the quality. Post the one image that speaks a thousand words. You’ll find your reach and engagement will be three-fold when it comes to beautiful imagery that is high-quality, bright with colour, and aimed to stand out from the crowd. When you want to use more than one picture to tell a story, use Instagram’s multiple upload option with swipe action instead. If you must use a collage app, ensure you spend the extra couple dollars upgrading from the free to the premium version to avoid having the app’s watermark sit at the bottom of it. It’s like using a professional photographer’s photo; pay to get the right version, or risk looking like you can’t afford to buy it.
“Learn from others and hit the ground running by avoiding them and ensuring your posts are top notch.” SAME-SAME OVER AGAIN
Try to get out of the habit of using the same style of images over again – shots of your clients’ finished hair from the back. Ensure you post pictures of your clients’ faces as well as their hair, perhaps include testimonials within the text of the post. Other ideas include your staff, behind the scenes, even how-to or salon tour videos. While we’re talking photographs, take a look at some of your favourite Instagram accounts. What is it that you notice most? It’s probably the consistent quality of imagery. To get noticed, to look professional and to have people engaging, the one thing you really need to take focus on is your image quality. Invest in quality lighting, branded backdrops and a good camera (an iPhone will do the trick if you have everything else right).
Posting the same images that are of low quality makes for a monotonous account, so put in the effort to create imaginative and amazing photography!
directly and publicly. Chances are someone else was wondering the same thing, and if you can’t answer them without getting them into the salon for a colour consult, say that.
POOR GRAMMAR AND SPELLING
Not only will you be engaging with someone who could potentially call in to your salon without your prompting, but you will be seen to be highly knowledgeable about your industry and that you care for people to get the right information or at least you care enough to encourage a consultation so you can provide the right advice.
It’s the little things that count too, and it looks unprofessional when your apostrophes are in the wrong place, commas are non-existent, you’re shortening words by leaving out vowels, and other words are being misspelled. Don’t forget to use Australian spelling too - ‘s’ instead of ‘z’ for words like ‘specialise’ (not ‘specialize’). Don’t skimp out on your grammar and spelling, because it simply looks like you’re lacking in professionalism. Accompany your brilliant photographs with brilliant wording.
NOT ENGAGING WITH AUDIENCES
The biggest, biggest sin of them of all is not responding to your audience’s enquiries and just referring them to call your salon. The idea of social media is to be – you guessed it – social! If you’ve posted a vivid colour job you’ve created with a client, say a beautiful pastel colour melt, and someone asks if those colours are possible on brunette hair, answer them
Don’t make the social media blunders that many other hair salons make. Learn from others and hit the ground running by avoiding them and ensuring your posts are top notch. If you find yourself with limited time or knowledge to dedicate to your social media platforms, services at social media agencies can assist with your strategies and take over the responsibility altogether. Scene It Social provides tailored social media packages to the hair and beauty industry, and can work with you to make your social media content irresistible. They can be easily contacted on 0413 546 493 or visit sceneitsocial.com.au. Hair Biz Year 11 Issue 6
SOCIAL MEDIA AND ADVERTISING THE RIGHT MESSAGE By Estelle Oliveri
Let’s start with some hard truths about social media: 1. L IKES on posts do not bring SALES through your door. 2. More followers on Instagram are not going to bring you clients unless you can resonate with your viewer’s needs and wants. 3. Your social media page is not about YOU, it’s about your clients, your salon experience and how your salon can and does impact on the life of others. 4. Posting on your social media page only connects with your EXISTING customers, not your potential audience. I hear you sigh. Every day I see salons repeating the same error – posting to their social media accounts in hope that someone will SEE their fabulous offer (It’s not going to happen) or wondering why their existing followers are not taking action. To take it a step further, I see these posts boosted with the hope that someone in their location will take up the offer…… and yet still no client walks through the door. I feel your pain. Social Media IS a fantastic tool to reach potential clients. However, this seems to be exactly where the understanding stops. I’ll repeat: Social Media is a TOOL to reach potential clients – if you don’t understand HOW to connect with potential clients then the tool is completely useless. The concept of connecting with potential clients is simple – tap into their desired outcome. To do this you need to understand their “before” state to take them to their desired “after” state. I’m not talking about a before and after photo of someone’s hair. It runs much deeper than that. In the “before” state, your prospect may be unhappy, frightened or bored for various reasons. In the “after” state, life is better. Your prospect is free from whatever was hindering her/him in the first place. FACT: People don’t buy products or services… they buy outcomes. They buy access to the “After” state. You need to be clear on what the desired outcome is going to be for your prospective client. To do this, complete the below 98
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exercise by populating the eight-question “Before/After” Grid (see Grid Example ‘A’ below). 1. What does your prospect have in the “Before” state? What does your prospect have in the “After” state? 2. How does your prospect feel in the “Before” state? How does your prospect feel in the “After” state? 3. What is an average day like for your prospect in the “Before” state? What is an average day like for your prospect in the “After” state? 4. What is your prospect’s status in the “Before” state? What is your prospect’s status in the “After” state?
blow wave offer. Here is an example message: Say goodbye to routine “boring”. Feel like a modern goddess as you strut into the boardroom with a blow wave like this. Secure your appointment and take on the world. A supporting image is created that clearly states the offer:
Grid Example A
It’s important to think of the type of client you would like to connect with first, before answering the questions. For example, it can be a corporate woman, busy mum, lady of leisure and so on. I’ve filled out the grid below (Grid Example B) showing how a corporate woman’s day is transformed after receiving a blow wave.
And there you have it: a message and image that resonates with the desired demographic. Notice the wording of the message created taps into the feeling and the status of the “After” state. This can now be advertised (paid) to a highly-targeted audience on Facebook & Instagram.
Grid Example B
Customers who receive a blow wave are transformed: • From having oily, frizzy hair to smooth frizz free hair. • From feeling unattractive to confident and in control at work. • From having an average day that is routine to making everything and anything happen. • From a status of ‘average’ Jane Smith to Goddess. Now it is easy to create a message for the desired corporate demographic for the
This style of advertising is just one of the many ways to promote your business on social media. Sound too hard? Then reach out. Social Media experts do not exist to just get your followers. Our aim is to bring you clients. Estelle Oliveri, is the director of HAIRPIN DIGITAL – Affordable, effective social media solutions for businesses focused in Hair and Beauty. Contact her on 0498043064 or go to www.hairpindigital. com to learn more. Hairpin Digital is aligned with Geoffrey Herberg Education.
www.affinage.com.au 1800 804 757
Published on Nov 10, 2017
HAIR BIZ is the only magazine of its kind which offers a comprehensive look at both the business and image side of the hair industry. We pro...