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The Essential Business Guide for Salons and Spas

WHERE SCIENCE MEETS SKINCARE

Year 10 Issue 6


Beauty Biz

Make Up By Liz Sharp, 2017 ABIA Make Up Artist of the Year


FO O R PEN ON EN LI TR NE Y

ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 CATEGORIES Beauty Therapist of the Year

Best Tanning Salon/Service of the Year Best Customer Care Award Best Marketing Award

NEW STATE CATEGORIES

Best Salon Training Award Salon Team of the Year

AUSTRALIAN & STATE SALON AWARDS

Hall of Fame (Nominated)

Salons/Spas will enter in their State Category for:

State Salon/Spa Of the Year

State Salon/Spa Of the Year

(4 Treatment Rooms or Less)

(5 Treatment Rooms or More)

Salon Manager/Coordinator of the Year Business Director Owner of the Year Educator of the Year (Individual)

NSW/ACT | VIC/TAS/SA | QLD | WA/NT

Educator of the Year (Organisation)

Based on judging scores, the 2 Australian Winners will be announced from the State Winners on the Gala Night.

Wholesaler of the Year (Voted) Cosmetic Tattooist of the Year

IMPORTANT DATES CLOSING DATE FOR ENTRIES Friday 20th April 2018

FINALISTS ANNOUNCED Monday 11th June 2018

GALA AWARDS DINNER Sunday 9th September 2018 The Star Sydney, Pyrmont, Sydney

THE BENCHMARK OF BUSINESS EXCELLENCE

www.australianbeautyindustryawards.com.au B E A U T Y


ON THE COVER

CON TENTS

08 Where Science Meets Skincare By April Jones

REGULARS 06 Editors Letter 14-15 Industry News 54 Make Up Shop 56 Tanning Shop 58-60 Beauty Shop

FEATURE 10-12 Pioneer & Innovator – Danne Montague-King 16 Every Tattoo Tells a Story 18 Dermalogica Your Partner to Success 20 Adoring All That Is Beauty

MEDI & AESTHETICS 22 A Holistic Approach to Battling Body Dysmorphia By Ursula Cervellone 24 The Dark Side to Cosmetic Surgery in Australia 26 Simple Dermal Filler Techniques with Dr Tom van Eijk

SALON PROFILE 28 Bring the Spa to Fiji 30 Pinnacle to Open New Clinic in Double Bay

ABIA 2017 32 Beauty Therapist of the Year - Amanda Di Cesare 34 Customer Care Award/QLD Spa of the Year (4 Rooms or Less) - Natural Beauty & Medi Clinic 36 State Salon of the Year NSW/ACT (5 Treatment Rooms or More) – Richmond Skin Fitness 38 State Salon of the Year VIC/TAS/SA (4 Treatment Rooms or Less) – James Vivian Dermal Therapies

DERMAL 40 Perspective on Preservatives – The Paraben-Free Phenomenon By Dr. Andrew R. Christie 42 Can Our Diet Effect the Way Our Skin Ages? By Nicole O’Sullivan 44 Adult Acne And Inflamation By Donna Marcal 46 Sectional Peeling By Robert Manzo

PROFILE 48 Non-Invasive Eyebrow Lifting By Oksana Shatrova 50 Everything You Need To Know about AHAs – Ultraceuticals 52 Australian Wattle and Daintree Blackbean Waxes By Rosie Hopgood

BLOG SPOT 62 How Are You Today? By Julie Cross 64 Doing Nothing By Linda Woodhead 66 The True Meaning of Sustainability By Paul Frasca

BUSINESS 68 Australian Brands Join Forces 70 The Management Conundrum By Narella Lancaster 72 Salon Success For the New Year By Tara Sharland 74 The P’s of Business Part 5 By Daniel Dickson


A

IA

AUSTRALIAN MAKEUP INDUSTRY AWARDS

8 1 0 2 O T BIA G N HIA & A

I of A M s r e n O w C g initiative | O shin

publi a h c o Am


Beauty Biz PUBLISHER

Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au

EDITOR

Editors Editors Note

April Jones april@mochapublishing.com.au

ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au

ADMINISTRATION

Jess Richmond jess@mochapublishing.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS

April Jones Linda Woodhead Ursula Cervellone Dr. Andrew R. Christie Nicole O’Sullivan Donna Marcal Robert Manzo Oksana Shatrova Rosie Hopgood Julie Cross Paul Frasca Narella Lancaster Tara Sharland Daniel Dickson

OFFICE

PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au

DISTRIBUTION

Australia Post - Print Post 100005498

PRINTING APN

PUBLISHED BY mocha publishing

PUBLISHERS OF

HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz & Barber Shop Beauty Biz is published six times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Beauty Biz does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Beauty Biz are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2017 mocha publishing All rights reserved.

How on earth did we get to December 1st and the countdown to Christmas? Even as I write those words there is an echo of me saying exactly the same thing last year.. and the year before... This year is slightly different for me though in the fact that I actually got my stuff together and did the work and prepared early. Shopped early, helped the kids write their cards for friends, even managed the shiny neat wrapping thing thanks to a little help from my new bestie Kikki k. And it feels good! The main reason for this influx of Christmas prepared-ness though is the fact that as a cosmetic Injector, this is my busiest time and also being based in a busy shopping centre, this is the LAST place I want to see on my days off. But it does feel good and it got me to thinking a little more about putting in the ground work and being more organised and prepared in other areas of life such as work, in clinic etc. We all are familiar with the old adage ‘Fail to Prepare, Prepare to Fail’ but in areas such as planning marketing, events, promotions etc for the year it’s essential and allows us to see the gaps and problems earlier, secure staffing levels, order more/less stock and so on. I am dedicated in 2018, to bringing you more business based articles to assist in strategising and planning out areas such as marketing, social media, financials and can’t wait to introduce you to some of the new contributors we will have coming onboard who are from a great cross section of business, not just the beauty industry. We will also be bringing you the ABIA awards again in 2018 with the awards ceremony scheduled for the start of September in line with beauty expo which will open its doors again then for a great weekend. Entries are already open so you have time to plan and prepare a great application and there are plenty of categories to select from. We are very excited to be welcoming new sponsors for the event in the coming months with the growth of the awards not only exciting but also humbling to the Mocha team in the way the beauty industry has fully embraced them. I think that this has been one of my favourite issues to put together in 2017 as there were so many writers and product companies keen to contribute. It was especially nice to feature more of our ABIA winners and read through there stories once again, seeing pictures of them receiving well earned rewards. Words of wisdom from the legendary Danne Montague King had me enthralled as I read through the copy of the questions he so kindly answered for us, with a tinge of regret as our schedules did not allow for me to interview him in person. That’s definitely on my bucket list for next year but I do love how the personality of Danne came across in his answers. I hope you enjoy the issue and the happiest of Christmases to yourself and your families from us all here at the Mocha family!

April April Jones Editor


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COVER STORY

WHERE SCIENCE MEETS SKINCARE By April Jones

Dr Heber and his highly skilled team of Australian and international formulators are dedicated to creating potent, effective products under the Ultraceuticals label. Ultraceuticals are at the forefront of innovation and use only the latest available ingredients and technologies to consistently release new products and improve existing ones.


With a combination of sophisticated, patented delivery systems and potent, proven anti-ageing stars like Vitamin A, Vitamin C and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), each product is formulated with maximum safety and effectiveness, so you get results which you can actually see. By collaborating with renowned universities and leading researchers, Ultraceuticals are leaders in the global cosmeceutical industry, crafting a simple regimen of products which deliver fastacting and discernible results to reveal clear, firm, glowing, beautiful skin. Leading the way in Research & Development (R&D) in the skin ingredient area of the beauty industry is Ultraceuticals Research Scientist Dr Shiva Farabi. Dr Farabi discussed with Beauty Biz editor April Jones some questions around Research & Development, complexities in stabilising ingredients and the process of encapsulating.

WHY IS IN-HOUSE R&D SO IMPORTANT?

I believe that to be at the forefront of the industry and continuously surpass our competition, devoting an in-house R&D is a critical component of innovation and is crucial to developing new competitive advantages. Some of the ingredients of innovation are knowledge and technology, and R&D directly supports the development of both. I believe this is what makes Ultraceuticals so amazingly successful.

HOW DID YOU FIRST GET INVOLVED WITH ULTRACEUTICALS AND BECOME PART OF THE R&D TEAM?

I joined Ultraceuticals in 2015 primarily to develop a specific delivery system for Retinol (Vitamin A), which would be able to protect Retinol from oxidation and also to efficiently deliver it into the skin better than what was available on the market. Today, I work closely with Dr Heber on researching new technologies, developing delivery systems and methods to protect, preserve and deliver a variety of active ingredients and to analyse the panel test results to evaluate the efficacy of our products.

CAN YOU EXPAND A LITTLE ON THE KEY PERSONNEL INVOLVED IN THE BRAND’S R&D TEAM AND DIRECTION?

Our R&D team consists of four chemists who are professional in the formulation of sophisticated and innovative skin care that produce formulations with the ideal texture that absorbs well into the skin. We also have a clinical coordinator who is responsible for trialing the products by recruiting panelists and following the results over a trial

period. We also have an R&D manager who manages all activities and projects that happen within the department. Myself and Dr Heber work closely with the R&D team to uncover combinations of effective ingredients and also make efficient and superior formulations.

CAN YOU EXPLAIN A LITTLE ABOUT THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE SKINCARE?

We do our best at Ultraceuticals to always use the latest available ingredients and potent, proven anti-ageing stars like Vitamin A, Vitamin C and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and to consistently release new products and improve existing ones. But it’s not only about what ingredients we use, it is also about how to preserve, deliver and formulate them into a product so the skin can efficiently consume them. This is the challenging part which requires a lot of expertise. It’s not only about ingredient lists, but it is also about how we put them together.

HOW DO YOU CONDUCT YOUR PANEL TESTING OF PRODUCTS AND WHY IS IT IMPORTANT?

After we are sure of the safety of the final product, we invite panellists in with the specific skin concern that our test product is used to treat. These case studies are instructed to use the product for three months, and we collect their pictures and evaluations of the product after every monthly visit. We then analyse all the data very carefully to make sure we achieve the desired results by the majority of the panellsts. If the product doesn’t deliver the desired results, it won’t be launched in the market. As we promise to deliver real and visible results, panel testing is critical. We want the results to be real; this means that everyone should experience the results. That is why we avoid using the results of only one panellist which do not apply to everyone and rather strive for more realistic claims. And the results should be visible; this means not only can it be measured by professionally collected data, but should also be experienced by the panellists and noticeable in their day to day lives.

WHAT DO YOU SEE AS THE MAJOR POINT OF DIFFERENCE WITH ULTRACEUTICALS?

I believe that our main difference is the time and cost we invest on our research and panel testings. I have worked in other companies where they have a tight time frame and insufficient costs allocated to develop a product, and therefore, chemists have to use minimum amounts of active ingredients to bring down the costs of the formulation and use generic

formulations to overcome the shortage of time. The other significant difference is in how we interpret and present our panel test results. If results are fantastic on only few panelist and not much on others, no matter how great the results are on those few panelists, the product cannot be approved as the claims are not going to be real for the majority of the panelists.

IF YOU COULD CHANGE ONE THING ABOUT THE INDUSTRY WHAT WOULD IT BE?

The skincare industry is over-populated with products and brands which claim extraordinary results which they never deliver and this causes customers to lose trust in brands. If I could change one thing in this industry, it would be to encourage every company to invest in their panel and clinical testings to make sure claims are delivered and in this way, we could buy back the trust the industry has lost over the last few decades.

ULTRACEUTICALS IS CRUELTY FREE. IS THERE EVER A NEED FOR COMPANIES TO TEST ON ANIMALS FOR SAFETY AND EFFICACY OF THEIR PRODUCTS?

The fact is that animal testing is in no way an indication that certain ingredients are safe for humans and this cruelty is unnecessary. Most of the time, as further evidenced by case studies outlined by CCF (Choose Cruelty Free), results from animal testing aren’t accurate enough to predict the same amount of toxicity in human use. Thankfully, the development of alternative methods is growing, and today many toxicity animal testings have been replaced by more accurate tests. At Ultraceuticals we rigorously review and renew the ingredients in our products to ensure they contain only the most effective, but skin conscious ingredients on the market that have been proven to bring excellent results. www.ultraceuticals.com Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

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FEATURE

Pioneer & Innovator

DANNÉ MONTAGUE-KING

Danné Montague King, founder and CEO of DMK International is a botanical pharmacologist, journalist, and international lecturer. He is the innovator and founder of a worldwide movement known as Skin Revision and as far back as the early 1960’s, this visionary became aware that something was missing from the popular approaches to caring for skin. Even at age 74 Danné is still a tireless educator; well known for his professional articles and non-product aligned presentations to both trade and consumer audiences. He is contently travelling to one of the 30 countries with active DMK distribution to lecture, make media appearances, or participate in hands on training. Inspired by his own bout of severe acne, he began treating his skin with chemistry that the body recognises. The incredible results Danné achieved on himself lead him to research similar methods for treating other skin conditions including aging, scaring and pigmentation, which 10

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affect every skin type around the world. Danné was the first scientist to recognise enzymes ability to hydrolyse dead skin cells. He created the renowned concept Remove – Rebuild – Protect - Maintain, which revolutionised the way aesthetics /dermal care is practiced throughout the industry. His work with vitamin C therapy as an age retardant and collagen enhancer stretches back over forty years. As an advocate for professional skin therapists and consumers, he continually fights to debunk the myths, unsubstantiated claims and well renowned for his candid honesty mixed with humours antidotes.

Danné strongly believes that there should be a positive working relationship between the medical and skin practitioner professions. To achieve this, Danné has worked with some of the world’s leading physicians and surgeons to develop protocols for the proper maintenance of healthy skin, surgical alternatives, scar revision and pre and post-operative care. Danné Montague-King never takes full credit for his visionary concepts but likes to share it with the many scientists and natural discoveries from which he has learned. He often says ‘I have never created anything. Nature sets up the rules; a true scientist must


first think abstractly, without tunnel vision, listen to his or her heart and then follow the dictates of nature and the far off music of the universe.’ He lays the accolades of success for his Skin Revision concept at the feet of the many ‘Giants of Science and Medicine’ who have contributed to his message. Danné is a very proud supporter of the LGBT community and was the first Global Ambassador for The Harvey Milk Foundation. His DMK Limited™ range donates significant profits made to the Harvey Milk Foundation cause. Beauty Biz was honoured to be able to interview this industry icon.

DMK HAS BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY FOR YEARS, BUT RECENTLY THERE SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN A RESURGENCE. HAS SOMETHING CHANGED, HAS THERE BEEN NEW FORMULATIONS, NEW TREATMENTS DEVELOPED OR IS IT JUST GOOD MARKETING?

I’ll tell you what I really think – yes certainly good marketing, the Australian team has been expert at that, but the reason why they’ve been good is because they’ve taken all the actual facts and results orientated aspects of it and got it into the mainstream. DMK has truly become a brand and it’s backed by, and not only been backed by science – everybody says that, it’s backed by results. And you know there’s no better advertising than word of mouth, not really, not long term. You can spend a fortune on big flash ads and make everything trendy for a few months, but over the years as more and more people’s lives are changed, and literally they have, then the public becomes aware of it. And I think that’s partly the reason for the sudden surge. It’s happening in the USA too. We’ve had DMK in the US for fifty years, but we’ve always been exclusive clinics scattered around, not like in Europe where we’re practically on every doorstep like in Russia or Ukraine, where DMK seems to have this huge upswing too. I also think that people are looking for something that really does something for their money. They are tired of buying, you know, hope and hype. And they’re hearing about this. And to expand on that, the Australian team - Debbie and Daniel Dickson, know enough that when they see things like this happening to get behind it even more with marketing and advertising. Also, there’s the luxury line, somehow when you go to the top of the pyramid and if you think of the beauty industry as a pyramid, and at the top of the pyramid is

luxury, and under that is professional, then semihigh end, regular, and it goes all the way down to supermarket mass sales. Once you get into the luxury, and we got into it just by accident with DMK Limited, which was to be a one off to raise funds for the Harvey Milk Foundation with beautiful high-end packaging and all that – it took off, simply because in the first time in history that I know off, there was a luxury line that actually delivered exactly what it said and that got a lot of attention, because you don’t have to book a professional treatment to enjoy the benefits of DMK Limited. I started with Transgenesis crème for DMK Limited, and then by special demand, developed additional products to become companions in the range. Of course, we recommend treatments and particularly if you have serious anomalies including acne, glycation, hyper-pigmentation, rosacea or any other dermatitis categories, certainly you have to have treatments, the luxury line would not alleviate all of that. But in general, most women and men within six days of using the Transgenesis crème everyone was noticing a porcelain-ation effect to their skin (and I can’t describe it any better than that. I don’t know if I’m coining a term or if it’s a real word, but it just had that remarkable texture and noticeable change) DMK Limited won’t get rid of acne or other severe conditions, it’s not meant for that, although it won’t hurt it, I did suspect benefits because of the Norwegian enzyme that is horribly expensive and used in the Transgenesis crème. I suspected that it would help to alleviate the scaling that people with eczema would suffer and breakdown that horrible leathering and scaling that people suffer with. Basically, eczema is an imbalance in enzymes in your body, and Transgenesis did help to alleviate some of those problems, and at first, I thought it was a little bit unfair because a lot of people with eczema can’t afford to buy DMK Limited, because it isn’t cheap. Do I feel guilty, no, because it costs us a fortune to make it. After costs, any margin mostly goes to the Harvey Milk Foundation and we did it as a fundraiser and the flagship for our luxury line.

DMK HAS A REPUTATION AS A WORLD LEADER IN TREATING ACNE. WOULD YOU PLEASE TELL US WHY THIS IS – IS IT YOUR EXPERTISE OR PRODUCT FORMULATIONS? My expertise? It’s not just my expertise, a good scientist has great powers of observation, and you look at everything as a big fat puzzle and the piece has to go here, let’s look for that piece. And eventually you complete the puzzle. I had terrible acne, and this is a well-known story in the press already, and I cured it myself, and

when I say cure, I mean maintainable remission. Nothing is cured with anything like that which is ongoing, but doesn’t mean you have to suffer it. DMK is good with acne because we approach it in a different way. We don’t approach it with a let’s kill the acne with benzoyl peroxide…it’s like saying there is a fly on the wall, and I have a choice – I can take a fly swatter and hit it, or, I can take a bazooka gun and kill it, and I would kill it but I’d also blow a big hole in the wall. And that hard-handed approach over the years has been wrong – acne is strictly hormonal, it’s created by the hypothalamus receiving signals of stress, and those signals are then filtered down through the entire endocrine system and end up in the testosterone which is the male hormone that every woman has a little bit of (and like very man has a little bit of estrogen). We look to remove all of the cuticle build up that keeps the sebaceous oil trapped behind the cornea. Of course, we kill off the acne bacteria, however that’s only part of it, we then focus on building the skin back up to normal health so that they don’t have to suffer the attacks again. It’s not a one off, we have some people that have results so fast that they think it’s a miracle, and we have others that take a long time but when they see incremental changes and results then there is less pressure on the hypothalamus gland, there is less stress because trust me people with acne suffer stress. They feel ugly, they feel dirty, they feel socially unacceptable and they stay at home. But if they’re looking at the mirror and they see these things happening, then they get this feeling of amazement sometimes when something is really working at last - so they stick with it. The more that they look better the less stress they have, so we have an internal healing as well as a topical approach. And it has to go hand in glove. You have to approach these patients psychologically as well as doing treatments, and we don’t just slap on treatments 1, 2 and 3 and expect something to happen. It might briefly happen but it’s not going to change someone’s life. And their life literally needs to be changed. It’s a process and needs to be built on trust. If you’ve ever interviewed someone with acne, and they tell you the truth they’ll all tell you that they have no self-worth and that they are afraid to face the public and feel terribly ashamed. Once these people begin to grow in confidence they will try to put themselves forward and re-engage with their lives, but it’s a big change for them.

HOW HAS DMK STAYED AHEAD IN SKIN CARE?

I was just thinking about this the other day… that I’m the last one left! All of my contemporaries have sold out and left the industry, so I know, I’m the oldest one left in the industry! And we’re still here! A quick little anecdote that will help cont’d over page


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FEATURE

cont’d from page 11

to explain that. We’ve been in China for close to 15 years and I’ve been through a series of terrible distributors. We finally ended up with one that was great. When she took it over, she knew that she had to invest quite a lot of money and reset a lot of things, but the fact that there were so many of the original hardcore doctors and therapists still interested and wanting to work with DMK after all these years – even after all the goof-ups and crazy antics that the distributors were doing - it’s survived! And that’s hard to do in a country like China that is all about mass sales and knock-offs of everything – and why did it survive because education is our number one, first and foremost must have. We just don’t take on anybody. I know Daniel Dickson and the Aussie team have moved away from several clinics over the years that were just doing it wrong. For most companies, it’s the bottom line and they’ll suffer through all kinds of misrepresentation of their product as long as that place is still buying a few things. They don’t think of what’s out there and what lives are being changed. And we really do care and I’m not just saying that as a buzzword. When something does go as well as we thought it would we get very sad and we bend over backwards to turn it around. And we usually do turn it around. I think it’s our professionalism, the education and the obvious results are the key as to why we’ve lasted so long. When asked whether there are any competitors that are doing things well. I can’t answer that because to be honest I’ve not seen it. If I see a company doing something that was really good – I would say it. Why not, it’s a big enough world and I’d love the challenge, but I haven’t seen anything yet.

WE DON’T CHANGE OR FOLLOW TRENDS?

I may change the tools, but the concept remains the same. It’s not about individual products. I often get feedback about specific products, but for me the products are not that important, as they are simply tools to deliver on the concept. The concept of REMOVE, REBUILD, PROTECT & MAINTAIN has remained consistent for over 40 years. It’s a four-tiered concept and in between those four categories there is a great number of treatments and approaches that are all as diverse as stars in any sky. Mrs Jones in NSW that has the same problem as Mrs Smith in Adelaide may have a slightly different protocol to do at home because she’s got specific needs. We address individual needs on a prescriptive basis. The only thing that we’ve done that would be available as a range to people regardless of their condition would be the luxury line.

WHY DID YOU CREATE ENZYME THERAPY, AND WHAT WAS YOUR PROCESS BEHIND ITS DEVELOPMENT?

(chuckles) You’re asking me to go back over almost 50 years of memory and I’m 74 years old! It was a journey that evolved by its own self. There was no plan. In the early days, I’d travel around the globe with my little kit bag full 12

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of slides, a clacking carousel and a flip-chart to draw chemistry and schematics on and l would lecture to audiences in Grainne Hall in the Irish countryside, at the Royal Academy of Medicine in London and all kinds of diverse audiences, including a faith healing church once! And it just evolved. As each type of problem would come up in the skin, each type of anomaly, each person suffering with something that would present itself - we would work at it until we got them into remission. It’s all about homeostasis. So, there was no definitive plan.

WITH THE BENEFIT OF HINDSIGHT, PERHAPS I WOULD HAVE CALLED IT SOMETHING DIFFERENT, BECAUSE

a lot of people think that when we talk enzyme that the whole thing that we put on the face is nothing but enzymes and it’s not. There is one of our products that has just a little tiny bit to mix together and that we use for a specific purpose. But what we are really doing with DMK’s Enzyme treatment is to create activity within the enzymes of the skin itself, such as messenger enzymes to send signals across the cell membranes to signal them to wake up and get working whereas before they were sluggish – and you can see it in the face. It stimulates the skin to get back to a healthier and functioning state. So, I’ve had a bit of a chuckle over the years, when certain other companies were pouring over our ingredients and manuals desperate to discover the enzymes in our wonderful masques. And of course, there are none. You can read that on the labels as each countries regulations and standards demand - so there are no secrets, and perhaps I should have called it something else, but it’s too late, and DMK’s Enzyme Therapy is now named as we know it. To find out more about DMK and how they can support your business here in Australia please contact: Ph: 1300 00SKIN Email: sales@danne.com.au Website: www.dannemking.com.au

A HISTORICAL LOOK AT THE INCREDIBLE LIFE OF DANNÉ MONTAGUE-KING 1960s Vitamin C Therapy for collagen in skin. 1970s Enzyme Therapy for skin and muscle tightening. 1980s Glycosylation and cross-linked wrinkle treatments. Hyper-pigmentation treatments with no bleaching. 2000s Board member of the Facing Forward Foundation. - Recognized as industry pioneer by Dermascope magazine. - Formed partnership with the Harvey Milk Foundation. - Opened the DMK Beverly Hills clinic for pre and post-operative work. - Launched DMK Cosmetic Foundations, specialising in silicone base - corrective make-up 2010s Danné is awarded Legend of the Year by Aesthetics International Association. - Danné features on the cover of Dermascope and Spa Management magazine recognised as industry pioneer. - Klear Collection Acne launch (paraben, sulphate and benzoyl peroxide FREE acne range). 2012 DMK Limited launch, Danné becomes Global Ambassador of the Harvey Milk Foundation. 2015 Aesthetician’s Choice Award: DD Vitamin C/ Acu Moist/Body Sculpting 2016 Aesthetician’s Choice Award: DD Vitamin C/ Super Serum/Transgenesis 2016 The Skin Games International Danné wins the Game Changer Award. 2017 Aesthetician’s Choice Award: Enzyme Masque #1/Body Sculpting 2017 The Skin Games International Danné wins the Expert Panel Award.


INDUSTRY NEWS INDUSTR PURE FIJI LAUNCHES NEW COCONUT LIME BLOSSOM INFUSION

Returning to Beauty Expo after 5 years, attendees came in droves to stock up on their favourite natural bath and body care products and experience the Australian launch of Pure Fiji’s latest signature scent - Coconut Lime Blossom. Salon owners couldn’t get enough of the eagerly anticipated new infusion, with most of the Coconut Lime Blossom range selling out on the first day. The visiting Fijians were also a stand out for the crowd, performing incredible Signature Foot Rituals while singing some beautiful Fijian melodies throughout the weekend.

2018 INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHORTLIST AWARDS OPEN FOR ENTRY It’s the second year that the awards are open to submissions from international beauty, health and men’s grooming brands, with judging panels in the UK, USA and Australia. The lead judges for 2018 have now been confirmed, and include: London: Make-up artist, cruelty-free cosmetic ambassador Justine Jenkins; health coach and yoga and beauty expert Amber Macintosh; and contributing beauty editor and freelance beauty/lifestyle writer Helen Wilson-Beevers. New York: TV fashion stylist and on-air presenter Dawn Del Russo and her sister make-up artist Denise Del Russo; and new judge, Beauty + Content founder and beauty photographer, Amy Schneider. Australia: Holly Spierings, creator of award-winning make-up brand Eye of Horus Cosmetics; and eco-luxe skincare blogger Arjun Sudhir. There are 20 international beauty judges for 2018, and five for the Men’s Grooming categories, including Josh Blackburn and Liam Jennings, founders of London grooming destination Regal Gentleman

PBS HOLDS PASSION TO PROFITS 3.0 MASTERCLASS After showcasing all 10 brands over 7 different stands at Beauty Expo in August, Professional Beauty Solutions (PBS) returned for more unmissable product and technique education with Passion to Profits 3.0 , Monday Masterclass – a day designed to help salon owners grow their business and their skills. Held at the International Convention Centre, Darling Harbour in Sydney on Monday 28th August, Passion to Profits 3.0 was a jam - packed day of education, with PBS flying in industry experts from two of the most innovative skincare and mineral makeup brands in the industry! Speakers included Philip Luque, Director of Artistry Global & Domestic Senior educator for Youngblood Minerals Cosmetics and Dawn Clifford, Senior Director of Education for Image Skincare .

LASER CLINICS AUSTRALIA SET TO LEAD INDUSTRY AGAIN WITH BOLD NEW BRAND IDENTITY

Laser Clinics Australia is set to revolutionise the industry once again with a new and forward-thinking brand personality that celebrates our freedom to look the way we choose.Laser Clinics Australia will spearhead the movement that says it’s ok to celebrate your unique qualities, to play up your defining features, to celebrate what makes you “you”. The movement asks: “What’s your youness?” This was developed following six months of intensive customer research which uncovered the truth that we want to be free to make our own choices about our looks, without feeling judged. Laser Clinics Australia has set the standard for industry best practice, customer service, safety, accessibility and affordability since launching in 2008. The company opens its 89th clinic today at The Glen in Melbourne. “What’s your youness” runs nationally from 19 October 2017

MESOESTETIC LAUNCHES NEW M.PEN PRO mesoestetic has just launched its new m.pen (pro) microneedling device. Shaped like a fountain pen, the headpiece movement has been designed to significantly increase the transdermal penetration of active ingredients. It offers 5 speeds x 6 depths and works with 12 micro needles to deliver results with proven efficacy. The launch which was held on Tuesday November 14 at the beautiful La Porte Space. Joan Carles Font shared the history of mesoestetic and how it all began in the 80’s when he used to run a pharmacy in downton Barcelona. Armed with an entrepreneurial spirit, Mr Font saw an opportunity in the field of aesthetic medicine and began working with master formulas. The growth of this small business saw him turn it into a pharmaceutical cosmetics company with a range that has now expanded into 87 different countries and is still growing.

GET READY FOR SUMMER AND WAVE CELLULITE GOODBYE Cellulite is a cosmetic problem. Generally only women suffer from cellulite due to different structure in fat cells and slighter connective tissue than men. Through the consumption of food the body stores fat, which when not used causes the skin to pull in and dimples to appear. The lymph systems ability is reduced causing fluid retention in the connective tissue, reducing the amount of toxins expelled from the body, resulting in cellulite! Styx Cosmetics developed the Aroma Derm Cellulite Treatment Range which represents high quality natural cosmetic ingredients. Essential oils from herbs are part of the


RY NEWS INDUSTRY NEWS like micropigmentation, men’s grooming, and brows; as well as discovering products that will satisfy consumer purchasing trends toward Australian owned and independent beauty brands.

PEVONIA BOTANICA AUSTRALIA ANNOUNCE 2017 AWARD WINNERS

Aroma Derm treatments. This is a gel treatment, with no need to shower as it is absorbed during the treatment, leaving the skin smooth and silky. The client will leave your salon rested, relaxed with a new body awareness! The range consists of 3 treatment options: Soft - very light cellulite, Medium mild cellulite and Strong - stubborn cellulite Finish with Aloe Vera After Treatment Cream to calm skin after any cellulite treatment. After treatments to use at home: Aloe Vera After Treatment Cream, Cream Cellulite Hydrante: Tightening and moisturising cream for use daily. Creme de Contour: Activating cellulite cream to form your body use daily. For your nearest distributor and more detailed information contact: Lee Fran Beauty Imports P/L Ph: 07 5525 0888 Email: info@lfbi.com.au

Held for the past 19 years, the annual Pevonia Awards recognise and commend the most outstanding Pevonia salons, spas, therapists and spa managers. Celebrating the best in customer service, performance excellence, marketing excellence, design and overall excellence, a total of 12 awards across 4 categories; Beauty Salon category, Urban Day Spa category, Hotel/ Resort Spa category and International Spa category, are presented to both exceptional individuals and businesses whose superior achievement and dedication to excellence can be shared with their teams and clients. The winners represent the highest-quality standards and professionalism setting a benchmark for the industry; Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year - Vie Spa, Pullman Magenta Shores Resort Urban Day Spa of the Year - Vitality Laser & Skin

REVOLUTIONARY NEW SKINCARE BRAND LAUNCHES IN BYRON BAY

Beauty Salon of the Year - Beauty Worx

Brand new company, Biologi, has released a range of skincare products that is 100% natural and 100% active. On Wednesday, September 13, in an intimate affair near Byron Bay, Biologi officially launched as the creator of a ground-breaking range of products. Developing a pioneering extraction method, Biologi founder, Ross Macdougald, has created a manufacturing system that harnesses a plant’s internal process and can remove the serum as an untouched combination of skin-loving phyto-actives. Biologi is redefining skincare as the only company in the world which offers unaltered, single ingredient, plant-to-bottle products that contain nothing but the highest concentration of naturally-occurring active nutrients. No toxic activating ingredients. No man-made synthetics to give an appealing fragrance. No harmful alcohol to make the product effective; just pure, undiluted, plant serum. Biologi is now available online at www.biologi.com.au

Performance Excellence - Pure Body

Spa Group of the Year - Keturah Day Spa Customer Service Excellence - Dome Spa Retreat Marketing Excellence - Keturah Day Spa Design of the Year - Simply Elegant International Spa of the Year - Hilton Fiji Beach Resort & Spa International Spa Design of the Year - Bebe Spa, Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort Manager of the Year - Akosita Tukana- Fiji Beach Resort & Spa Managed by Hilton Therapist of the Year - Helene Belgarric, Dome Spa Retreat, QLD

ENDOTA SPA ANNOUNCE THEIR NEW AMBASSADOR LINE UP

VICTORIA’S PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY HUB RETURNS IN 2018 TO EDUCATE AND INSPIRE Beauty Expo Melbourne returns to the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre (MCEC) from 24 to 25 March 2018, where industry professionals are invited to discover the latest innovations from the world of beauty. The need to stand out from the competition is as strong as ever, with recent 2016 census data revealing that since 2011, the amount of Australians working in beauty and fitness services has surged by 25 per cent, driven by Sydney and Melbourne. Beauty Expo Melbourne will provide a platform for visitors to gain a competitive edge by l earning the latest techniques in trends

Endota spa announces beauty and wellbeing ambassador partnerships with stylists Sheree Commerford, Sibella Court and sought-after makeup artist Teneille Sorgiovanni. The new Ambassadors will work with Endota spa’s Digital, Social and Influencer Marketing teams to create exciting content, and assist with education on behalf of the brand. Endota spa have engaged with the ambassadors due to their extensive expertise and passion for wellness and beauty and will be collaborating with them across various areas of the business. The aim is to provide women with the knowledge for personal reflection, helping them make authentic choices, set goals and create intentions in order to live their best life, in line with Endota spa’s brand philosophy. Melanie Gleeson explains the appointment. “We want women to be their best and find what their truth is. I believe everyone has a spark inside them that is waiting to be ignited,” “Sheree, Sibella and Teneille share the same passions and beliefs that we do, as a brand. We are so excited to work with them to instill more women with the confidence to take time out for themselves and find their own ways, by creating their own rituals, to find balance and stillness,” Gleeson says.


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FEATURE

EVERY TATTOO TELLS A STORY Protect & Resurrect is a revolutionary tattoo care cream, developed in Australia, to prevent tattoos from fading and help resurrect old tattoos.

Snakes & Snipers Protect & Resurrect is a unique product dedicated to the care and maintenance of tattoos and tattooed skin. Snakes & Snipers originated in the idea that there must be a way to stop tattoos stop fading, and make old ink look new again and is the brain child of Alan Buki and Stevie English - one with a love of creating products that don’t harm, and the other with a love of tattoos. Both are passionate about sustainability and being chemically and environmentally conscious. Their vision was to create an exceptional product, made from premium, natural ingredients, engineered to rejuvenate existing tattoos while also protecting new ones. Alan and Stevie are also mindful about supporting the local economy, which is why snakes&snipers is locally made and owned, and all ingredients, manufacturing and operations are sourced right here in Australia. We spoke to Stevie about this revolutionary brand and how two friends managed to get this off the ground over many years of trial, effort and most likely Tequila!

HOW DID THE BRAND COME ABOUT?

Basically, around 5 years ago, I noticed after one of my most recent ink adventures, that my old tattoos looked faded and not up to scratch. I decided to go hell for leather on finding something that could look after them and stop this getting worse. There was nothing in the market which led me to think that there should be! So, I went to my good friend and one of creators of Original&Mineral, Alan Buki and asked what he thought. He went off researching like a madman. Alan brought to the table experience and knowledge from creating his own Haircare range some years ago. As it happens,Alan and I are both hairdressers who wok in and own our own salons:- Stevie English Hair, Sydney and Alan Buki, Paddington Sydney. Alan knew a chemist who might be able to help us and it all went on from there.


Stevie English

Alan Buki

WHAT IS THE UNIQUE POINT OF DIFFERENCE OF THE BRAND?

Pretty much the time we have out into it! 4 years of trials! We didn’t want to create just a high performance moisturiser. We wanted a product that actually made a difference. Our chemist came up with a synthesised snake venom, that reacts well with the skin, helps with the prevention of ageing and reduces lines. It was a good place to start along with the need for some ‘spf ‘to help protect the skin in the harsh Australian Sun. Our brand was coming together and the name Protect and Resurrect was born. To be honest it was a long drawn out process of trialling products, perfecting smells, checking and rechecking until we were happy and until we gained both TGA and STA approval.

TELL US ABOUT THE IMAGERY OF THE BRAND

We didn’t want Protect and Resurrect to look like a tattoo product with Tattoos on the box. We wanted a brand that sits alongside your other lifestyle choices. I read a stat that 1 in 4 Australians have a tattoo. Where I live I’m sure it’s 1 out of 2! I spend a fortune on my ink and want to look after them. Our cream has been proven to sharpen lines and stop the deterioration of tattoos. My tattoos now look better than they did 4 years ago!

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOUR MARKET? We have noticed a lot of barbers have ink and are used to selling products. Likewise hair and beauty salons are becoming more and more popular for men in terms of grooming. The male beauty regime is just escalating. Personally I want to look the best I can wether that’s my skin, my gut or my tattoos! Having said that there are so manay women with tattoos that this product has to be unisex friendly so with the statistics showing 1 in 4 then its

pretty much there for anyone who wants to keep their ink looking fresh!

WHY SHOULD RETAILERS GET BEHIND THE BRAND?

There is a great mark-up and it’s something that can help grow your business. We are already in 10 barbers in Sydney and growing and that’s with out any reps. Obviously we are available in some tattoo parlours and proud to be in arguably the most prestigious tattoo parlour In Sydney - Little Tokyo. We are certainly open to distributing through other retailers including more hair and beauty salons, barber shops, tattoo parlours and even some cool clothes shops.

WHAT MERCHANDISING AND MARKETING SUPPORT CAN YOU OFFER?

At the moment we are offering posters, counter postcards, shelf decals and a box stand that holds 12 boxes of snakes&snipers. We have sample sizes too.

HOW DID THE PHOTOS THAT REPRESENT THE BRAND COME ABOUT?

The photos that represent the brand came about from my love of shooting - I love shooting hair stuff so it was completely different trying to figure out what our brand image is... to be honest that’s going to be always changing. We have some new models for our next shoot as well as some of faves. Snakes&Snipers is a lifestyle brand for tattoo enthusiasts. We have been told it helps people with dermatitis. But really we want it to become a daily “protect and resurrect” application for your skin and ink. www.snakesandsnipers.com.au

HOW DOES IT WORK? Australian made and owned, Protect & Resurrect is created from ethically and sustainably sourced ingredients that are of the highest quality and can be used for all tattooed skin types. The secret ingredient is a peptide which relaxes skin tissue, helping restore elasticity while a ground-breaking oxygen carrier boosts radiance with a 3-D plumping effect. These are combined with natural oils and polymers to create a depth of shine, and plant extracts to combat free-radicals to help refract light within your skin. We’ve added SPF 15, UVB and UVA Broad Spectrum absorbers which help defend your tattooed skin from harmful UV rays. The peptide found naturally in the venom of the South East Asian Temple Viper, has a strong ability to relax muscle contraction. By mimicking this effect, Protect & Resurrect helps restore skin’s elasticity. It not only reduces the appearance of image fade and line spread, but can create tighter skin, leading to sharper, smoother tattoo outlines and longer-lasting colour vibrancy.

WHAT’S IN IT? A blend of Jojoba and Macadamia nut oils, which are rich in essential fatty acids, and have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties restore the natural balance of your skin Tripeptide which enhances skin elasticity, creates a smoothing effect on your skin cells and helps keep your tattoo’s image sharp Jojoba Esters and Silicone Polymers help to maintain the original appearance of your tattoo while giving maximum depth of shine Green Tea extract and a Deep Sea Marine extract with anti-oxidant and free radical scavenging properties protect the skin from photo ageing SPF 15, UVB and UVA Broad Spectrum absorbers defend against harmful UV rays A unique fast breaking emulsion system gives a smooth non-greasy spreading action.


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FEATURE

DERMALOGICA

Your Partner to Success

Dermalogica was founded upon the belief that your best life is lived in your healthiest skin and when their products meet a professional skin therapist’s hands, real results happen. That’s why Dermalogica’s professional-grade skincare by The International Dermal Institute is one of the most trusted, recommended and used brands by licensed skin therapists to millions of clients around the world.

Suzette Cassie, General Manager of Dermalogica Dermalogica can be found in over 107 countries, with 6 subsidiaries, used by over 100,000 skin therapists, available in over 20,000 skin treatment centres, with 36 corporate training centres and over 1,000+ team members. Suzette Cassie has been the General Manager of one of the world’s best loved skincare brands, Dermalogica, for over 20 years. She has built the business from a position of zero brand recognition, to now being a household name and the No.1 professional skincare brand in Australia. Thrust into the business of beauty through a chance meeting with the LA based founders in 1995, Suzette has remained a trailblazer of the skincare industry ever since. In 2017 the brand celebrated 22 years in the 18

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

Australian market. From signing 60 salons in its first year of business, the brand has grown exponentially and is distributed through a network of over 1200 salons nationally. Suzette is passionate about elevating the beauty industry through post-graduate training and business support, bringing respect and success to professional skin therapists and Beauty Biz spoke to her about the history, the vision and the brand.

CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THE RESEARCH AND DEVLOPMENT BEHIND THE BRAND?

Ingredient innovators, researchers and educators work within the R&D department with a revolutionary “fusion” approach to formulation,

developing sophisticated hybrid compounds which pair the most powerful assets of nature with ingredients created in the lab. Traditional botanical sources are matched with synthesized ingredients such as peptides and acids. This approach allows the creation of products which support skin health while effectively delivering the immediate results demanded by today’s consumer.

WHAT DO YOU OFFER SALONS IN TERMS OF COMING ON BOARD AS A PARTNER WITH YOU AND WHAT BUSINESS SUPPORT IS OFFERED?

In 2018 Dermalogica will bring professional skin therapists an amazing line-up of cutting edge professional products for the treatment room as well as introducing our newly launched treatment


innovative products that get noticed PreCleanse Deep-cleansing oil melts away impurities

2016

2014

Daily Microfoliant Gentle daily exfoliating powder

2015 Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 Moisturizer with SPF50. Promotes healthy aging.

offering ProServices – ideal for clients looking for the utmost bespoke treatment experience with high-tech, high-touch, professional-grade products. In addition, we will go-to-market with our most advanced retail products, designed to excite our customers and complement their insalon experience. Next year will also see Dermalogica host a spectacular Symposium – potentially our biggest ever, in Queenstown, New Zealand in April. A Symposium is designed to bring Dermalogica skin care professionals together to connect, learn about innovation, develop business skills and be inspired by an exceptional line up of guest speakers. We offer continued support with numerous loyalty programs, state-of-the-art education workshops, on-going monthly visits from a dedicated business consultant, service innovations and access to a suite of online marketing and education resources. Much emphasis is placed on building and maintaining stockist relationships. We don’t want to be known as a supplier, but a business partner.

the business by increasing retail sales and dramatically impacting client retention. Dermalogica Experts have been trained to the highest level within Dermalogica and have undertaken extensive, intensive skincare education, rising through 3 status ranks to reach this revered position. Dermalogica Experts can be called on for highly personalised product advice, results driven active treatments and they can be completely trusted with their client’s skin health.

WHAT TRAINING IS OFFERED TO YOUR SALON PARTNERS?

WHAT DO YOU SEE THE MAIN POINT OF DIFFERENCE IS WITH THE BRAND AND OTHER SKIN CARE COMPANIES?

Today, around 6000 post-graduate therapists learn the ropes or upskill at four Dermalogica education centres across Australia each year and this year we were excited to further improve our digital communication with our Tribe by launching our first livestreaming events and classes, ensuring our exceptional education program is accessible to regional parts of the country. To date we have seen over 250,000 therapists come through our doors in our education centres around the country and it has been incredibly rewarding for us to know that we have been part of, and contributed to, an up-lift in the skin care industry. 2 years ago, Dermalogica introduced the Expert Program, at Dermalogica we believe that education leads to expertise which equips the Dermalogica Expert with the skills to not only better care for their clients, but also to grow

PreCleanse Balm Deep-cleansing balm-to-oil

Phyto Replenish Oil Luminous, hydrating treatment oil

2007

1998

2001

Delivers significant exfoliation with minimum irritation.

2017

MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant

“We don’t want to be known as a supplier, but a business partner.” - Suzette Cassie

Dermalogica embodies 3 guiding principles; EDUCATION In a beauty industry filled with choices, we provide a clear path to healthy skin. Every product we make and every skin treatment we give is powered by education from The International Dermal Institute. PERSONALISATION When we listen to our customers, they respond by making their skin a priority. Our tribe is dedicated to getting to know our customers before providing tailored advice, innovative products and unique treatments that will suit their lifestyles.

Daily Superfoliant Resurfacing, antipollution powder exfoliant

HUMAN TOUCH We believe in the power of touch to connect people and form lasting relationships around a common purpose: healthy, glowing skin for life.

TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THE DERMALOGICA FOUNDATION AND WHAT FITE IS ALL ABOUT

FITE stands for financial independence through entrepreneurship. 70 percent of the 1 billion people in extreme poverty are women. The Dermalogica FITE (Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship) initiative aims to change that. FITE provides women and girls with access to education, an entrepreneurial accelerator and small business loans. To date, we have helped fund more than 89,000 loans and given educational scholarships to women and girls in 15 countries – and we continue to FITE on. To further support the FITE initiative Dermalogica Australia is supporting The Sydney Community Foundation’s, Sydney Women’s Fund Project - The Violet Room which is transforming the lives of women and their families in Western Sydney. Beauty education training has helped to keep women and girls hopeful and focused on attaining work and careers. The Violet Room provides access to education and training and enables women who are facing barriers to education and employment, such as socio-economic disadvantage an opportunity to run their own small businesses providing beauty, massage and nail treatments to the Liverpool community. Past graduates have also moved on to establish their own beauty-based small businesses. We are incredibly proud to support The Sydney Community Foundation’s, Sydney Women’s Fund Project - The Violet Room as it allows us to shine a light on an industry that empowers women economically. The professional salon and spa industry puts more women into their own business than any other profession in the world and we look forward to seeing the impact The Violet Room has in the local community

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

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FEATURE

ADORING ALL THAT IS BEAUTY

Kate Morris, the CEO and founder of Adore Beauty, Australia’s first and leading online website for beauty and cosmetics, has just won the prestigious ‘Industry Recognition Award’ at the StarTrack ORIAS last week - the first woman to win the award in the nine years of its history. Kate has been a pioneer and active campaigner for women in leadership roles; giving beauty a digital makeover; flying the flag for Australian beauty globally and launching the Kate Morris scholarship to revive industries once dominated by women, to name a few.

Woolworths Limited (Woolworths) becoming an investor by taking a 25% stake in the business; and in late 2014, Adore Beauty signed an agency agreement with Estée Lauder Group, making it the first and only pure play online retailer in Australia to sell luxury cosmetics including Bobbi Brown, Clinique and Estée Lauder.

At the age of 21, after working on a beauty counter in Melbourne, Kate realised that many women found the traditional beauty retail experience intimidating and unpleasant. Kate was inspired to create an online beauty boutique that offered a more empowering shopping experience. With just $12,000, Kate started Adore Beauty out of her humble garage and the business has since grown to become Australia’s leading online shopping destination for beauty products and cosmetics.

Adore Beauty was the first e-commerce destination for beauty and cosmetics back in 2000, when e-commerce wasn’t a word commonly used. After years of persistence, determination and overcoming plenty of “no’s” has led Kate on a journey of success where her personal motto is ‘have courage to fail’ as a core part of the business values.

Kate’s sweet sixteen years in business has included many milestone achievements. Over recent years this has included in 2015, 20

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

Kate’s personal journey in technology led her to the ground-breaking innovation of Findation; whereby Kate created an algorithm to assist women all over the world to find their perfect foundation match, without the need to try the product first. The innovation currently returns

results based over 997 global brands, 7866 products, 40,206 shades and over 1.64m shade matches and is used across leading beauty websites from around the world. She has worked diligently to revive industries including computer science to get women back into the field they started, by starting a scholarship for women across Australia who are studying the topic at university. It is a technical skill that has helped to underpin the innovation of Adore Beauty and other retailers across Australia. In 2017, Kate Morris launched the Kate Morris scholarship; aimed at female finalyear university graduates who are looking to embark on their own careers within the science and technology industry. The scholarship will provide a successful candidate with a 1 month paid internship at Adore … We are sure there is only more to come from the award winning Kate Morris that is Adore Beauty!


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MEDI & AESTHETICS A Holistic Approach to

BATTLING BODY DYSMORPHIA By Ursula Cervellone

Does one size fit all? Should we reject cosmetic intervention entirely in a society that values beauty so highly? Could a holistic approach better suit young women of today as they come to terms with their physical attributes and flaws, in a world equipped to fix them?

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Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6


Every day we are bombarded by images from the media that paint the picture of the “perfect” woman. Swarmed constantly by an unrealistic representation of beauty, more and more women are falling victim to debilitating body image issues. According to a study commissioned by Dove, a staggering 89% of Australian women opt to cancel plans, job interviews and other engagements purely due to negative perceptions about how they look. As party of the study, it was found that 77% of Australian women blame “unrealistic standards” set by media and advertising as one of the biggest problems facing a woman’s fragile sense of self. Despite being acutely aware of the pressures imposed by the media, one out of two Australian women reported that they felt worse about themselves after looking at images of attractive and “flawless” women in magazines. What this cycle of unrealistic beauty standards and incredibly low self-esteem is breeding is the devastating illness now recognised as Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD). BDD is a mental illness and detailed in the DSM–IV as “a preoccupation with a defect in appearance. The defect is either imagined, or, if a slight physical anomaly is present, the individual’s concern is markedly excessive.” It continues by highlighting the preoccupation that can “cause significant distress or impairment in social, occupational, or other important areas of functioning.”. BDD affects up to 610,000 thousand people every year in Australia alone. It’s possible that these statistics don’t paint an accurate picture of how many people actually suffer with BDD, as those who suffer with this disorder are often reluctant to reveal their symptoms to others. Despite rising levels of beauty and appearance anxiety, more women and girls are fighting back against unrealistic beauty pressures. One of those women is Ursula Cervellone, founder of Feather Brow Couture. Ursula developed the autoimmune disease alopecia during the pregnancy of her first son. The alopecia resulted in partial hair loss on her scalp and through her eyebrows, which left her with incredibly low selfesteem. As a new mum with all of the extra stressors and anxieties attached, the illness became debilitating. “It is extremely hard being a young mum as well as dealing with a condition such as alopecia which changed some of the main features of my face” says Ursula. Ursula sought out cosmetic procedures like eyebrow tattooing in an attempt to rebuild her self-esteem, which actually left her feeling more dissatisfied with her appearance. While she sought the help of the best eyebrow tattooists of the time, sadly, the results were less than perfect. Driven by her frustration and after multiple distressing experiences

with other tattoo artists who didn’t understand her needs, Ursula established a boutique brow bar, where she seeks to redefine what cosmetic beauty therapies are and how they can help the women of today. Ursula is committed to helping women suffering from body image issues regain their confidence. As those who suffer from BDD are often concerned with their skin or a skin condition, their hair, certain body parts or their weight, Ursula often works with vulnerable women suffering from the mental illness. Dr. Ryan Kaplan, a clinical psychologist and director of the Sydney Body Dysmorphic Disorder and Body Image Clinic says “10-15 percent of people who seek cosmetic dermatological procedures and about 15% of plastic surgery patients have body dysmorphic disorder.”. Ursula has focused her career as reputable cosmetic tattoo artist to rebuild not only her own, but other women’s self-confidence. Ursula believes in a holistic approach to self-love that is kind and generous to yourself, but one that can absolutely incorporate making changes to your physical self. Every human is unique, as is their diagnosis, their story, their insecurities, and consequently, their methods of treatment. Through cosmetic beauty therapies, Ursula has found a confidence that helped her on her journey and gave her the where-withall to seek out complimentary therapeutic treatments. Ursula says, “self-love is about doing the hard work mentally and if you want to compliment that, polishing your own rough diamond so you can shine.” Thanks to her confidence shattering experience, Ursula intimately understands the issues that are rooted in our perception of our bodies and ensuing low self-esteem. Through her boutique, Ursula works with many women helping to rebuild their confidence and empower them in their own definition of beauty. She works hand in hand with her clients to fine tune their vision for their brows, educate them about the process, the after care and potential results before beginning the procedure. Her treatments are laced with care and concern, and an intimate wisdom of the fragile landscape that is the collectively low self-esteem of women—and has often found her role more closely akin to confidant and counsel rather than beauty therapist. Ursula meets a number of women who have also suffered from hair loss and helps them to regain their confidence through beauty therapy and by teaching them how to love themselves. “I understand the personal struggle each of my clients have whether it be alopecia affected or general confidence issues, I am here to make these women feel empowered beautiful and confident through my service,” says Ursula, however she also believes “that you do not need to undertake extreme cosmetic procedures to feel beautiful.”

Cognitive Behavioural Therapy (CBT) is currently the leading treatment for BDD, and Ursula believes her physical beauty treatments should be complimented by CBT in cases where BDD is diagnosed. There are an array of beauty therapies that can make a huge impact on an individual’s confidence levels and propel them to a place where they feel they have the confidence to seek further treatment. Dermatologists can help reduce skin conditions, laser treatments can reduce scaring, wigs can be used to help patients who suffer hair loss and Ursula at Feather Brow Couture can restore eyebrows (and consequently, confidence). As we know, patients with body image issues regularly cancel appointments and engagements—getting to a psychology appointment where they have to endure face-to-face conversation when they are experiencing a critical low in their selfesteem can be incredibly difficult for many. This is supported by Dr. Kaplan, who agrees that a holistic and integrative approach is recommended taking into consideration the mental and physical self. Dr. Kaplan advises that “BDD is absolutely treatable and responds well to therapy,” and that “most people with BDD can make good progress with around 20 sessions of treatment.”. Ursula intimately understands this, which is why she often gently refers her patients on to other practitioners and health professionals seek further psychological treatment. CBT is a successful treatment approach for a range of mental and emotional health issues, working to help individuals identify and challenge unhelpful thoughts and to learn hands-on self-help strategies. These strategies are designed to bring about positive and immediate changes in the individual’s quality of life. CBT can be helpful for anyone who needs support to challenge unhelpful thoughts that are preventing them from reaching their goals or living the life they want to live. CBT aims to show people how their thinking affects their mood and to teach them to think in a less negative way about life and themselves. It is based on the understanding that thinking negatively is a habit that, like any other habit, can be broken. So, does one size fit all? Are we rejecting cosmetic intervention entirely in a society that values beauty? Ursula Cervellone of Feather Brow Couture doesn’t believe we should. Through her work at Feather Brow Couture, she has made meaningful and tangible changes to the quality of her patients’ lives. Ursula is the beginning of a revolution: redefining what cosmetic therapy is and shaping it to radically empower women to live their most confident and radiant lives. More details about Ursula and her work can be found at www.featherbrowcouture. com.au

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MEDI & AESTHETICS

The dark side of

COSMETIC SURGERY IN AUSTRALIA Nicole Montgomery is a mother of four, registered nurse, patient advocate and Founder of Trusted Surgeons and Trusted Cosmedics.

After working in both the cosmetic and plastic surgery industries, Nicole saw a desperate need for an industry accredited information source that showcased the best Australia has to offer with a strong focus on patient safety, which is currently missing from other information sources. Trusted Surgeons provide clear and concise advice, direction, and options for patients. The site only lists trustworthy surgeons who are members of the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons &/or The Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons. Nicole states: “The cosmetic side of plastic surgery in Australia is an unregulated industry. Even with attempts by the leading bodies for plastic surgery, Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS) and Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS), to lobby the government to regulate the industry, still no headway has been made. As a result, any medical practitioner can refer to themselves as a cosmetic surgeon without any formal qualifications in surgery.” Nicole adds: “I can see that you may be scratching your head at this point and wondering how could this be? Surely in Australia, someone referring to themselves as a surgeon, has had formal qualifications in the type of surgery being performed? The short answer is no. This gives spawn to the dark side of cosmetic surgery. “ “We have had many women contact us who have been botched, one most recently had 24

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a chronic infection post-surgery which was poorly managed, resulting in her being left with one implant. Another lady has had corrective surgery due poor implant choice. Many women want to access breast augmentation surgery at a cheaper price, however the risks can be life destroying. The women I speak to, have all lost confidence, suffer from regret and severe guilt. These feelings result in anger and a sense of powerlessness. By this point, the therapeutic relationship breaks down and the patient is perceived as irrational or to have unrealistic expectations. Either of these perceptions can be minimised by education, patient selection and good post-operative care. Sadly, with clinics running a low cost model, time is money. This results in a lack of pre-op education, poor patient selection and limited post-operative care. Always make sure you research thoroughly when selecting a surgeon. You should only be selecting a board certified plastic surgeon that specialises in the type of procedure you want. On Trusted Surgeons, we only list board certified surgeons so you know you will always get a surgeon you can trust.” “I have seen every type of Breast Augmentation complication. What is most heartbreaking is women who have endured multiple revision surgeries to achieve a natural result. Sadly, the scarring and result most often is no better until the patient consults an expert. I have seen many young women with no breast tissue undergo surgery with implants significantly to wide and heavy for their chest. This has resulted in bottoming out and multiple attempts to rectify the

issue. The patients end up needing an extensive lift procedure, costing five times the original discounted surgery. I have also seen far too many cases of symmastia again as a result of poor implant choice. Although breast augmentation is the most common botched procedure, I have seen horrendous face lift surgeries gone wrong with damaged nerves. Ottoplasty (ear pinning), where the surgeon accidentally cut through the ear, liposuction with lumps, pitting and an uneven result. “ Prevention is better than a cure and botched surgery can be easily avoided. “Australia is lucky to have so many talented surgeons, many of who are listed on Trusted Surgeons. If consumers are unsure of the qualifications and do not want to ask the surgeon or clinic, we do it for you. We often confirm pricing, qualifications and experience for patients. Although the industry is slowly becoming more digital, it is still a long way behind. A list of surgeons is simply not good enough, we discuss options and inform people of the real risks. Education and awareness is key and there is so much misleading advice in the marketplace. We also highly recommend patients undergoing breast augmentation check if their surgeon has taken the safer breast implants pledge”, concludes Nicole. Further details about Nicoles work can be found at www.trustedsurgeons.com.au


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MEDI & AESTHETICS

SIMPLE DERMAL FILLER TECHNIQUES with Dr Tom van Eijk

Demand for lip augmentation and facial rejuvenation continues to gain popularity in Australia, but with higher demand there has also been a trend away from overfilled faces and “duck-lips” to a more natural, pleasing lip and facial appearance. Many doctors and nurses in the beauty industry are looking for experts in the field to enhance their existing skills and offer their clients outstanding results.

Dr Tom van Eijk, Holland’s most famed cosmetic doctor, graduated from the University of Amsterdam and after a stint in cardiac medicine he decided to follow his passion and work in cosmetic injectables. He has now been working in this area for over 15 years and has spent much of that time teaching dermal filler techniques to injectors all over the world. A drive to create more natural results has seen Dr Tom van Eijk develop a number of techniques that have changed the concept and application of injected dermal fillers. Mobile facial folds can present a challenge for correction if using standard injection techniques. Dr Tom van Eijk has developed a unique method to provide optimal correction for lines that deepen with expressive facial movements. The Fern Pattern technique was developed to allow dermal filler to become a skin stiffening agent, rather than a simple filler. This provides optimal correction and creates natural outcomes “without blowing up the face in an unnatural way”. This technique has been adopted worldwide and allows cosmetic injectors to use less filler substance to create better aesthetic correction. This technique uses less dermal filler to provide a correction that is not visible either at rest or during dynamic movement for lines that deepen during a smile, as well as the dynamic lower nasolabial fold. Dr Tom van Eijk has also researched and developed a lip augmentation technique known as Lip Tenting, that allows for optimal control over both shape and volume enhancement. By injecting almost vertically from the white roll rather 26

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than injecting parallel to the lip contour clients with asymmetrical lips, lip pockets or clients with previous suboptimal results can expect more natural and pleasing aesthetic results. Both the Fern Pattern technique and the Lip Tenting technique are valuable ways of extending skills in the cosmetic injectable field. Being confident in a number of injecting techniques allows cosmetic injectors to offer the most appropriate treatment plan and outcome for each client. CPD Institute of Australia is offering upcoming workshops with Dr Tom van Eijk to allow injectors

to learn these techniques in small group settings with live models. Participants will need AHPRA registration to participate and will receive a certificate signed by Dr Tom van Eijk on completion. Workshop: Dr Tom van Eijk Dates: Wednesday 14th February – CPD Elsternwick, Melbourne Thursday 15th February – CPD Elsternwick, Melbourne. Bookings : https://cpd-institute-of-australia. eventbrite.com.au


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SALON PROFILE

BRINGING THE SPA TO FIJI Debra Sadranu is undoubtedly one of the pioneers of the Fiji Beauty & Spa Industry. Her investment in founding the Spa Academy 20 years ago, and having the vision to expand her business through Senikai Spas, and now the Essence of Fiji Rejuvenation Centre, warrants recognition for the immense contribution she has made to the Fiji Tourism Industry After creating a spa product range formulated and produced in Fiji containing local natural plant and marine extracts, and designed for their Academy and chain of Senikai Spas, the company has now commenced with exporting internationally. The Company established village enterprise through harvesting of local extracts for their product manufacturing. The Pristine waters of the Yasawa Region (the famous blue lagoon), provides the idyllic environment for farming of organic sea grapes, the key ingredient in the companies newly launched skin care range - Nama of Fiji, Pure Hydration. Debra Sadranu, Managing Director, moved to Fiji in 1998, where she saw the need to grow the beauty and spa industry. With her vast

experience and background as a beauty therapist, she opened the first spa academy of its kind in the South Pacific. Catering to local & international students, Spa Academy Fiji provides the highest level of beauty and spa therapy training with final external examinations conducted by CIDESCO International. Winning the Visionary Aon Excellence in Tourism Award in 2011, and the 2015 Business Woman of the Year, recognizes Debra’s efforts in providing the Spa Tourism Industry with expertise and recruitment. Debra prides herself in providing training and employment, and creating career paths for thousands of local women.

As the Director/Principal of Spa Academy Fiji she introduced a loan scheme to assist students from lower income families for their tuition. Her desire for empowering women and giving back to the community includes ongoing sponsorship with training to 30 women from Sabeto for Tifajek mud pools, scholarships for women who have not had the means to pursue a career in the spa industry, training for disabled women, an annual visit to the Lautoka old aged care home for a day of spa treatments, proceeds to Apimeleki Vakarau a disabled artist, commissioned through Tokani Arts for the artwork on the company’s product packaging, and a pet spa range giving royalties to the animal shelter. With her latest company expansion, Essence of Fiji - Rejuvenation Centre, which provides Fiji’s tourism Industry with a unique spa tourism experience and transit lounge, also housing their Spa Academy and product manufacturing, Debra has taken Spa Tourism to a whole new level. Debra’s continuous focus to improve on the products and services her company offers within Fiji and the Pacific, with particular emphasis on promoting Fijian made items, will put Fiji on the map globally. The pristine ocean waters of the Fiji Islands are

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home to marine resources unlike any other.One such resource is NAMA (pronounced Nah-Mah), a seaweed comprising delicate clusters of tiny grape like nodules. A popular food in the Pacific for centuries, this unique iron source is highly sought after as a new tide arises in skin rejuvenation. Debra identified the niche for her company, and sought assistance from James Cook University to determine the feasibility of such a venture. With the huge focus on organic and plant sourced alternatives in skincare, Nama is the preferred skin Hydration solution as an alternative to Hyaluronic Acid which is sourced from animals. It is also ideal for sensitive skin as it diffuses redness which is experienced through broken capillaries and rosacea. Evidence revealed that although Nama is prevalent throughout the entire Fiji group, the largest and plumpest of the grapes are located in the Yasawa group. With one of her missions focusing on empowering women, Debra set out to purchase the seaweed from the women in the Yasawa Islands, which is also home to the renown locations for the ‘Blue Lagoon’ movies. Having received positive feedback on the launch of her ‘Nama of Fiji’ range of skin care products, which offer the ultimate hydrating moisturising creams for women aged 35 years and older, Debra’s focus is now on farming Nama within several villages in the Yasawa Island group. The establishment of Nama farming would further meet another of Debra’s missions of encouraging sustainable development within communities. Debra shares ‘that in producing a product which empowers women locally with its production, supports economic, cultural and environmental sustainability, and at the same time promotes Fiji to the world, Nama of Fiji is a reflection of the culmination of all my missions when I first started my company 20 years ago’. The story of Nama of Fiji’s humble beginnings has been carried to Australia, New Zealand, Europe and North America, and continues to travel throughout the world. Further details about the company can be found at www.namaoffiji.com

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SALON PROFILE

PINNACLE TO OPEN NEW CLINIC in Double Bay

One of Australia’s most reputable natural health care providers, Pinnacle Clinic, is expanding into Double Bay to provide patients in the area with relief and wellness without chemicals or a surgery-first mentality.

“It couldn’t get any easier - just sit down and simply breath as normal. You can wear your clothes, do work as usual or even practice some yoga if you like!” 30

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For over three decades, Pinnacle has treated patients suffering from health and lifestyle issues by expertly combining innovation with proven best practices out of its clinics in Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific region. The new Double Bay clinic boasts four treatment rooms and will offer the same highquality services such as infra-red saunas, magnesium floating pods, acupuncture and colonic irrigation, as well as cryotherapy and a salt room.

Will Shannon is a leader in the fields of natural medicine, iridology and herbalism and is a strong advocate for protecting the access of medical care to minority groups. His work through World Health Care Council has assisted people in developing nations in obtaining access to lifesaving care and he has personally consulted tens of thousands of people from more than 140 countries.

“We’ve been operating in the natural health and complimentary medicine arena for over 30 years and have a strong established base of loyal clients; some clients we now treat all three generations in the family. By expanding into Double Bay, we aim to make our services more accessible to our existing clients residing in the Eastern Suburbs, Inner West, Northern Beaches and Southern Sydney,” says owner of Pinnacle, Will Shannon.

THE SALT ROOM

Some of the more unique treatments include the Salt Room and Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy.

Pollution and other factors impair our respiratory system leading many to suffer asthma, allergies or blocked sinuses. Pinnacle Clinic’s Salt Room may be the solution you’ve been looking for. The completely natural and noninvasive treatment involves sitting in a relaxing room with over 400 kilograms of salt and constant air circulation


It couldn’t get any easier - just sit down and simply breath as normal. You can wear your clothes, do work as usual or even practice some yoga if you like! After 15 - 30 minutes, clients usually start to notice their sinuses and upper and lower airways begin to clear. The treatment helps to strengthen immunity and treat respiratory and skin ailments.

HYPERBARIC OXYGEN THERAPY

While oxygen is the most important nutrient for body function, the air we breathe is surprisingly not mainly oxygen, but nitrogen. It is composed of 79% nitrogen, 20% oxygen and 1% carbon dioxide and the rest is argon. Humans need oxygen to function properly and the main way we receive it is via transportation in the haemoglobin of the red blood cells. If circulation is compromised or diminished in areas of the body, our overall oxygen may be low. Pinnacle Clinic’s oxygen chamber pumps 100% oxygen into a sealed, pressurised environment, allowing you to absorb three to five times as much oxygen as regular air and encouraging complete cellular oxygen. It is also believed the effect of the white blood cells is also enhanced through HBOT by killing bacteria more efficiently and reducing swelling from injuries. Sleeping in an oxygen chamber has been linked to a higher quality of sleep. Some people have suggested 1 hour of sleep in an oxygen chamber equates to 2 hours of normal sleep, and up to a 30% faster recovery rate from acute injuries, particularly those to the muscular skeletal system, making it very popular with athletes. “At Pinnacle, we have a proven track record of providing effective herbal remedies that cure a wide range of ailments. We’re excited about our new Double Bay clinic, and providing naturopathic services, herbal remedies, diet and nutritional advice, exercise and wellbeing services to help even more people lead healthy and fulfilling lives the natural way.” Pinnacle Clinic Double Bay is located at Level 1, 4 Cross Street, Double Bay, Sydney NSW and will be open from 31st October 2017 www.pinnacleclinic.com.au


ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA > DERMAL

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA Beauty Therapist of the Year

AMANDA DI CESARE LE CHIC SKIN & BEAUTY

Amanda Di Cesare has been a qualified beauty therapist for over 11 years and was born with beauty in her blood: She has always loved all things beauty since she can remember, but it wasn’t until she started the facial module of her beauty therapy studies that she realised that this is what she wanted to specialise in. Amanda’s absolute passion is professional skin revision and she loves taking her clients on a journey from where they are, to where they want to be and working at achieving positive skin outcomes together. As a therapist, Amanda places a lot of focus on client’s overall health and wellbeing as well as their skin, and looks at treating the body holistically. Fascinated by the gut and the effects it has on the skin has led to her sharing my knowledge about internal health with clients. She is passionate about creating a treatment plan for clients and documenting the progression of not only their skin, but how they feel within themselves and seeing their appearance and overall health and confidence change. She believes that in today’s world of social media and “social perfection” it is so important to assist clients in regaining confidence and making them feel beautiful in their own skin. “By unlocking a client’s true genetic potential, I am able to change their life and the reward for me in turn is priceless”, says Amanda. Amanda is also very passionate about supporting 32

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

the beauty industry as a whole and mentoring our future beauty therapists throughout their 2017 ABIA Beauty Therapist studies and entering into the of the Year Amanda Di workforce. This has been a Cesare with Metro-Dora major focus upon managing her Clifford-Clincial Pro own beauty and skin clinic, Le Chic Skin & Beauty. She places importance on therapists having products available to the industry as well as their finger on the pulse of industry trends, different training and education opportunities events, techniques and equipment both in and institutions.” Australia and around the world. Always striving to self-educate on a professional and personal And for the future? On Amanda’s bucket list is level, Amanda has pushed herself to be at the to attend Cosmoprof which seems like a goal forefront of the beauty industry and to continue she is like to achieve soon! “I am a subscriber to grow as a beauty therapist and excel in this to beauty industry magazines such as Beauty rewarding career. “I am proof of what you can Biz, Aesthetic Medical Partitioner, Dermascope achieve if you apply yourself, work hard while (US) and more. I grab every opportunity that I continuing to grow, and take care of your client”. think will assist myself and my team and yearly I apply for local and national awards as a way to Continuing professional development has constantly review the service I offer and keep always been important to Amanda and is check of industry best practice!” forefront in her mind. Keeping in close contact with all of her suppliers and participating in Congratulations Amanda! A well deserved salon training with product reps, Amanda award and reward for all of your hard work. also takes great interest in the courses and opportunities suppliers have to offer. “I class myself as an education junkie!” says Amanda. “I love to learn all things beauty and business. I am part of numerous different types of beauty support groups and forums online which show the latest products and developments available to the industry. I love attending the beauty expos to see a broad range of technologies and


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ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA > DERMAL

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA Customer Care Award & 2017 ABIA Qld Spa of Year 4 Rooms or Less

NATURAL BEAUTY & MEDI CLINIC

Reegyn McElligott and the team at Natural Beauty & Medi Clinic were awarded the enviable accolade of Customer Care Award PLUS Qld Spa of the Year 4 Rooms or Less at the recent ABIA’s in Sydney: Since Reegyn McElligott first opened for business, NBMC has undergone significant changes in the way they have developed and implemented services to their guests. Living in a remote Outback region, Mount Isa is faced with a harsh climate and extreme weather conditions and is isolated from many of the urban facilities that much larger cities take for granted. In 2010, Reegyn opened the doors to the Mount Isa community as its first spray tanning business, Techno Tan. Located in the heart of Mount Isa city, in a warm and inviting salon, her new venture was positioned in an arcade off the main street, giving the salon ambience combined with privacy and discretion. With her newly established spray tanning business booming, Reegyn quickly identified a need for extensive beauty treatments in the region and extended the business’s offering to include waxing and tinting, relaxation body treatments, pedicures and manicures, massage, 34

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microdermabrasion and facials. At this time, the business changed its name to ‘Mount Isa’s Natural Beauty and Spray Tanning’, taking on board an extra employee and opening up an additional treatment room. In September 2011, the opportunity arose to purchase an IPL (intense pulse light) machine which allowed the introduction of permanent hair reduction, antiageing, photo rejuvenation and acne treatments to the salon’s range of services. Importantly, it also meant two additional treatment rooms were implemented, allowing four treatment rooms to operate at one time. 2012 saw another big step forward when NBMC introduced the services of a FIFO (fly in/fly out) cosmetic doctor, specialising in Botox and injectables. By this time, the clinic had expanded its team to five employees to support the rapid growth of the

business. Such rapid expansion of treatments and services saw another change come about in 2016. This time, Reegyn recognised that the needs of the Mount Isa community were changing, and that a more clinical approach to skin care and health and well being was needed. Embarking on a rebrand, Reegyn renamed the salon from Natural Beauty and Spray Tanning to the Natural Beauty and Medi Clinic (NBMC). Each of the practices and procedures in place at Natural Beauty & Medi Clinic has been implemented with one thing in mind: to provide guests with exemplary service and care which support the clinics mission to educate individuals on the vital signs of skin ageing, health and wellbeing, and delivery of therapies to the standard one would expect in a top city salon or clinic


ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA Customer Care Award Natural Beauty & Medi Clinic with Kay Schofiled-Silk Oil of Morocco

ABIA 2017 QLD Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year 4 Treatment Rooms or less Natural Beauty & Medi Clinic with Otto MItter Ex Imports Belmacil

NBMC is dedicated to providing the people of Mount Isa and the surrounding remote and rural areas of north western Queensland with access to the latest available technology and services for skin health and wellbeing. There are a number of factors that set them apart from other salons in the region. Their services are: • Not readily available elsewhere within the region. • Tailored to fully meet the health and wellbeing needs of each individual. • Fully documented and recorded so guests can see the progress of their tailored treatment plans. • Results proven, with evidence-based statistics to support progress and outcomes. • In alignment with the latest technology and

developments available within the beauty industry. • Performed by highly professional, educated staff who have a long-term employment history within the NBMC (average employment retention rate is four years). • Available in Mount Isa and delivered by home visits to surrounding isolated regions such as Boulia, Julia Creek and Cloncurry – towns which do not have beauty salons, spas or clinics.

heat and extreme weather conditions. NBMC will strive to continually develop and grow their business in alignment with the beauty industry and latest research. www.mtisanaturalbeauty.com.au

NBMC’s purpose is to empower their local community through education on the vital signs of skin ageing, health and wellbeing and beauty therapy, helping the community to combat the effects of the harsh climate, scorching 40 degree Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 5

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ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA > DERMAL

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA State Salon of The Year NSW/ACT (5 Treatment Rooms or more)

RICHMOND SKIN FITNESS

2017 ABIA NSW/ACT Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year 5 Treatment Rooms or more Skin Fitness with Andrew Christie-Dermapenworld

At Richmond Skin Fitness, the mission is to make each and every customer who visits the salon, feel happy, confident and empowered. They believe that it is not just about pampering customers but about ensuring that they care for their individual needs so they leave the salon environment feeling refreshed, revitalised and valued. Richmond Skin Fitness pride themselves on having a diverse group of highly skilled skin therapists, hairdressers and makeup artists who can confidently cater to a wide range of customer needs. After 23 years in the industry the salon has achieved something very special within the Hawkesbury business community. Skin Fitness is a warm, friendly and welcoming salon that caters for the needs of many men and women with their skin, hair and general beauty needs Skin Fitness has always supported the local business community with everything from small business, local schools, charities and individuals who require support for their cause. As a business that is very passionate about giving back to others and to the community, they continue to do so thus creating a solid support network and caring for those who are in need. With 23+ years of successful business in the Hawkesbury region, the salon recently (mid 2016) relocated into a fabulous new premises. This was an extremely exciting time for the business as it increased the floor space to around 300 square metres. The salon now has ten peaceful treatment rooms located at the very back of the salon for privacy ensuring this is an area with no walk through traffic keeping it a quiet and relaxing space. It has eight hair stations including one especially designed 36

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for the youngest customers, a private tanning room, a seperate room for the nail artist and a comfortable and spacious pedicure room that seats three customers at a time. When you arrive into the salon you are greeted by the friendly reception team, which is located alongside a large retail area including a variety of skincare, haircare and leading makeup brands with a few makeup stations to accommodate all the makeup lessons and applications. The salon also has a fun Lip Lab zone for customers that want to create their very own lipstick/lip gloss and last but definitely not least a large soundproof creche that we provide as a complimentary service to all of their customers. The business currently has just under 40 staff in my employ. These valuable team members range from senior beauty therapists that have been with the salon for over ten years through to apprentice therapists who show a passion and genuine enthusiasm for the industry. The team of hairdressers also range from the senior stylists who again some have been with the business for over ten years through to our junior stylists who bring their spunk factor, creativity and edgy look to the team. Outside of this is a fun team of makeup artists who also bring their personalities and creativity to the business, and a beautiful warm, friendly and professional team who manage the reception area directing

customers and staff to ensure that we are prompt and running on time with our services. At Skin Fitness they service a very wide demographic, seeing on average 550 customers each and every week. Customers range in age from young teenagers right through to 80 years plus and after servicing customers in the Hawkesbury for over 23 years, a lot of customers now bring their sons and daughters in for services because they have come to know us and trust in the advice and the services we offer. While many of their customers are located within the Hawkesbury region they do have many who are more regional and also a few that are based near the CBD that make the regular journey to see the team at Richmond as they have come to know that the salon offers a consistent, high standard that they can trust and rely on. The enthusiasm of Linda Fenech, the business owner, resonates with her wonderful salon, “I truly believe that Skin Fitness is deserving of this award as we offer such a unique experience, a highly skilled and passionate team, a high level of customer service, a variety of services and we have become the beauty destination in the area.�


The NON NEGOTIABLES when skin needling

FOR MORE INFORMATION visit DermapenWorld.com for your authorised distributor in your country or call +61 2 98893636. DP Dermaceuticals may also be used as homecare by the patient. In addition to active meso-glides, the range also features a cleanser, exfoliant, moisturiser, mask and Cover Recover camouflage for pre and post-op maintenance. Specific protocol packs serve as non negotiables to ensure the best results when combined with Dermapen skin needling procedures.


ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA > DERMAL

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA State Salon of The Year VIC/TAS/SA (4 Treatment Rooms or Less)

JAMES VIVIAN DERMAL THERAPIES

2017 ABIA VIC/TAS/SA Beauty Salon/ Spa of the Year 4 Treatment Rooms or less James Vivan Dermal Therapies with Daniel Dickson-DMK

“There’s No Place Like Home… But we like to think we come close.” You won’t find white coats, cold stainless steel or stark lines at this clinic: Stepping into James Vivian Dermal Therapies is like visiting the home of a friend—warm, welcoming, and relaxed— but always professional. The clinic is the natural evolution of The Travelling Peelsman, an in-home skincare service started by James Vivian in 2012. Wanting to bring beautiful skin to more clients, the business put down roots on The Avenue in Prahran, sharing the premises with a group of complementary practitioners. Here, the business was able to treat a greater 3 of 8 variety of skincare concerns, using tools that were not suitable for a mobile service. Soon, it was time to move on and create a dedicated space that fully reflected the James Vivian Dermal Therapies ethos. Now located in the heart of Prahran’s High Street shopping district, the clinic is situated in a 1920’s Edwardian home, screened from the world beyond by a leafy courtyard. A discreet rear laneway caters to clients who desire extra privacy when coming and going. Staffed by two full-time qualified dermal therapists, the clinic reflects the professional but personalised care synonymous with James Vivian Dermal Therapies. Cutting-edge dermal technology mixes effortlessly with period architectural features in the two generous treatment rooms. The beautiful surrounds extend from the elegant, lightfilled reception area to the rear of the clinic, where a 38

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private kitchen and living space provides staff with an area to relax and regenerate between clients. The welcoming atmosphere is continued in James Vivian Dermal Therapies’ Sydney clinic, located in the luxury Intercontinental Double Bay hotel. Conveniently positioned in Sydney’s inner city, clients enjoy stunning views of Sydney Harbour, as well as more practical considerations, such as easy parking and a private entry. Some people think laser treatments and chemical peels are the domain of celebrities. But these clients aren’t celebrities; the clinics clients are hardworking men and women— surgeons, philanthropists, students, politicians and business owners. They’re teenagers looking to manage breakouts, men wanting to protect their complexion against the great outdoors, and women wanting to nurture their skin and minimise the effects of ageing. The therapists ability to tailor treatments to individual needs can sometimes see them treating up to three generations of the one family! James Vivian Dermal Therapies offers a selection of both light and deeper dermal therapies, catering for clients who want to refresh and revitalise the skin, as well as clients looking for a more dramatic result. They invest in products and equipment with a strong safety profile and a reputation for results—nothing is more important than our clients’ wellbeing. The clinic’s exclusive Signature Dermal Therapy Treatment is the most sought-after service. Combining light-based therapies, exfoliation, masks and serums, the treatment can be

tailored to suit any skin and is suitable for any occasion due to the absence of discomfort and downtime. Our other services include: Cutera Xeo and Cutera excel V applications, such as facial rejuvenation, laser resurfacing, laser vein therapy, Laser Genesis, laser hair removal (skin types I-VI) Collagen induction and scar reduction therapy using Dermapen V-Touch fractionated skin tightening Pellevé skin tightening LightStim LED light therapy An extensive range of light to medium-depth chemical peeling treatments Medifacials Teen facials . The salon also carries a handpicked selection of cosmeceutical products for retail sale, as well as a select range of complementary items for maintaining healthy skin. However, they know that it’s the little things that make the biggest difference: They offer a range of complimentary extras. Whether clients are borrowing a book from their library of skincare literature, taking advantage of the single-use eye drops, or protecting their newly glowing skin beneath an umbrella, it’s all part of crafting a a service as unique as their clients. From clinic location and interiors to treatments plans and equipment, every element in James Vivian Dermal Therapies’ clinics has been carefully considered to offer clients the safest, most effective and enjoyable experience possible


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DERMAL

PERSPECTIVE ON PRESERVATIVES The Paraben-free Phenomenon

By Dr. Andrew R. Christie

In a previous issue of Beauty Biz, I discussed the controversies and misinformation surrounding the use of parabens in topical cosmetics. The evidence concluded that parabens were not only found naturally in some berries, but also confirmed their safety when correctly formulated in topical cosmetics. The European Economic Community Cosmetics Directive not only supports that parabens are non-toxic, but allows a concentration up to 0.8% (as mixed esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid) for safe topical use. Despite unfounded industry dispute, Parabens remain the most widely used preservative in the cosmetic industry and is used in over 70-80% of products produced worldwide.

PARABEN-FREE PRESERVATIVES

So, what about products claiming to be paraben-free? Do they still use preservatives? If so, what other options are there for formulations that wish to make this claim?

Phenoxyethanol: A broad-purpose preservative sourced usually from phenol that effortlessly works in combination with parabens or sorbic acid. Used primarily in concentrations between 0.5 -2.0%, phenoxyethanol is non-formaldehyde releasing and is considered to possess a very low irritation or sensitizing potential. It is for this reason that phenoxyethanol is also used to preserve intravenous vaccine solutions.

Firstly, before we continue, it must be stated that ANY cosmetic product (especially one that contains any water) needs some form of preservation system. Without it, the product risks discolouration, separation, bacterial, fungal and microbial contamination. Such contamination not only reduces the lifespan and efficacy of the formulation, but compromises its safety by increasing the risk of irritation and reaction to the skin, eyes and mucous membranes. So it is not a question of whether to use a preservative, but a question of WHICH preservative to use.

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The following are the most common agents used to maintain product integrity to either fully replace parabens or to work as part of a conservation system with reduced paraben concentration. Despite the chemical-sounding name, ingredients such as phenoxyethanol and sorbic acid are often claimed to be naturally-derived and hence add another marketing spin to consumers.

Sorbic Acid: A broadspectrum, non-toxic preservative that delivers protection against the formation of mould and yeast. Sorbic acid may be synthetically produced or derived naturally from mountain ash berries. Argued to possess moderately sensitising potential when used in leave-on formulae, sorbic acid is commonly used in concentrations between 0.1-0.3%. Sorbic acid and its derivatives commonly feature


as moisture-binders and emulsifiers in topical cosmetic formulations. Methylisothiazolinone: Primarily used in rinse-off formulae (such as cleansers), methylisothiazolinone possesses a high potential for skin irritation and sensitivity if used within a leave-on product (such as a sunscreen or moisturiser), the recommended concentration within a formula is 6-75ppm (parts per million), however studies have indicate that a concentration even as low as 7ppm may cause skin reaction. Effective as an antibacterial agent, methylisothiazolinone has demonstrated low anti-fungal properties. Despite certain studies indicating allergenic and cytotoxic qualities when used in high percentages, The CTFA (Cosmetic Toiletry & Fragrance Association) state that methylisothiazolinone is safe when used at cosmetic concentrations. Methylchloroisothiazolinone: Often used in combination with methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone possesses the same skin irritation and sensitising potential and is likewise recommended for use in rinseoff formulae only. The FDA (Food & Drug Administration) recommends a concentration of 15ppm for rinse-off products and just 8ppm for leave-on products. As a broad-purpose preservative, the blend of Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone often replace the need for parabens, however do not offer an effect as safe or as non-reactive to the skin. Methylchloroisothiazolinone is classed as non-carcinogenic, however at cosmetic concentrations, is estimated to an allergen for 2-3% of the population . Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate: A synthetic preservative used in leave-on cosmetic products, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate is effective as an anti-fungus agent but needs to combined with other preservatives to achieve an anti-bacterial and broad-purpose effect. Used in recommended concentrations of 0.1% or less iodopropynyl butylcarbamate has a high sensitising and irritant potential . Diazolidinyl Urea: A formaldehyde-releasing, broad-purpose preservative, it is considered safe and non-toxic when used in concentrations between 0.03-0.5% though it is sometimes used up to 3%. Diazolidinyl urea is often combined with parabens and is one of the most common preservatives used in cosmetics. Whilst there is conflicting data regarding irritant potential, diazolidinyl urea is considered one of the safest preservatives available. Imidazolidinyl Urea: Chemically related to, though weaker than diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea is also a formaldehydereleasing, broad-purpose preservative. The second most used (behind parabens) preservative in cosmetics, imidazolidinyl urea is believed to be the least sensitising or reactive of all formaldehyde-releasing preservatives and is often combined with parabens within a formula.

FORMALDEHYDE-RELEASING PRESERVATIVES

As common ingredients we often see featured in an ingredients listing, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea and triethanolomine create another industry controversy as known formaldehyde-releasing agents. Note that such preservatives are not the same as embalming

fluid and as such do not possess the same health-risks and qualities. A formaldehyde-releasing preservative is any preservative that slowly releases formaldehyde to act as an antibacterial and anti-fungal agent in cosmetic formulations that contain water. Common formaldehyde-releasing preservatives include: • Quaternium-15, • Imidazolidinyl Urea • Diazolidinyl Urea • Triethanolamine • Diethanolamine • Monoethanolamine • DMDM hydantoin • Tris(hydroxymethyl) Nitromethane • Hydroxymethylglycinate Known to be a human carcinogen , formaldehyde is a naturally occurring organic compound found in any environment with oxygen, hydrogen and carbon. Formaldehyde is present in all living organisms and can also be found in food and water. Human cells contain 3ppm formaldehyde with some fruits containing 60ppm. Easily broken down by sunlight and bacteria, formaldehyde in normal exposure is quickly metabolised by the human body and turned into formic acid. Formaldehyde is safely approved for use in cosmetics up to 2000ppm in Europe, Asia and North America. Such use however is not so common these days. According to the British Journal Of Dermatology, formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (as opposed to pure formaldehyde) do

not promote any higher skin irritation or sensitising risk when compared to other preservatives (such as parabens) which do not feature any formaldehyde release . Popular preservatives such as imidazolidinyl urea only produce formaldehyde when under extreme circumstances such as high temperatures. There is no release with normal use in a normal environment. Any formaldehyde that is produced however is claimed to be well below the limits for safe exposure. Despite the proven safety of formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, similar hysteria created in the 1990s to that which we see now with parabens created a bad reputation. In response, many mass-market, international personal care manufacturers such as Johnson & Johnson removed all formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in their baby products .

BETTER THE DEVIL YOU KNOW

Despite the numerous controversies surrounding parabens and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, all reputable authorities still agree that their benefits outweigh the risk and danger of using products which contain no preservatives at all. Paris based, Dr. Andrew R. Christie is the Director of Lipservice Consulting. As an industry specialist with over 20 years’ experience, Andrew is the Global Medical Trainer for Dermapenworld and the author of Advanced Innovations With Dermapen. Andrew is the current ABIA Educator Of The Year and has trained over 50,000 practitioners globally. Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

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DERMAL

CAN OUR DIET EFFECT THE WAY OUR SKIN AGES? By Nicole O’Sullivan

As we age our skin becomes drier, thinner and more fragile. We develop lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and reduced elasticity. Collagen production slows and the loss of Connective tissue strength causes our skin to sag while reduced cell turnover can make our complexion dull and scaly. If that’s not enough we also lose 20 % of dermal thickness or facial volume. That’s the bad news. The Connective tissue which is responsible for the skins youthful strength and ability to bounce back consists largely of Collagen, Elastin and GAGs (glycosaminoglycans). There are a number of GAGs but the main one which I am sure you have all heard about is Hyaluronic Acid. GAGs attract water molecules and keep our skin plump, soft and hydrated. Several studies have shown that photo aged skin is deficient in Hyaluronic Acid. 42

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Here are 5 dietary changes you can make that will positively affect the way your skin ages. 1) Reduce your sugar intake - this includes refined and processed carbohydrates and even includes fruit. Excess sugar (including fructose from fruit) in the blood can cause a process called glycation. Glycation is when a protein or fat molecule binds with a sugar molecule resulting in the formation of AGEs or Advanced Glycation End Products. These AGEs damage

the Connective Tissue of the dermis mainly Collagen and Elastin fibres causing them to become stiff and rigid resulting in a loss of the skins strength and elasticity which leads to increased wrinkles and sagging skin. Not only does a diet high in sugar cause skin ageing it can also be responsible for Acne which is often referred to as diabetes of the skin. 2) Increase your Antioxidant intake. Antioxidants are molecules that inhibit the


oxidation of other molecules. Oxidation is a chemical reaction that produces free radicals which damage and thus age skin cells. A diet high in Antioxidants supports collagen synthesis by protecting the dermis from free radical damage, reducing inflammation and can protect us from UV damage. You can increase Antioxidants in your diet my eating a variety of healthy wholefoods and colourful fruit and vegetables. You can also add antioxidant superfoods like Matcha powder, Maquai Berry, Cacao powder or one of my favourites Kakadu Plum powder to your smoothie or breakfast bowel. As we said above we don’t want excess sugars in our bloodstream so one way you can reduce the glycaemic effect of fruits is to eat them with a protein such as nuts. Drink more Tea - black, white, green or Oolong they all come from the same plant Camellia Sinensis and are rich in polyphenol antioxidants. Tea has about ten times the polyphenols found in fruit and vegetables. 3) Increase your consumption of omega 3 rich foods. If you want younger, smoother healthily radiant skin then you need to get adequate levels of omega 3. These essential fatty acids are an essential part of all cell membranes and are what make our cells flexible. High levels of omega 3 fatty acids have bee shown to reduce inflammation of the skin, scaling, pruritis and erythema or superficial reddening of the skin. Omega 3 fatty acids also inhibit inflammation of the skin caused by UV radiation. You will find these skin loving fatty acids in cold water fish such as sardines, salmon, mackerel, tuna, anchovies and cod - don’t forget to leave the skin on as it contains most of the fatty acids. For those of you who don’t like fish or are vegan you can find omega 3 fatty acids in flaxseed Oil, leafy greens, walnuts, chia seeds, mustard oil, seaweed and even mangos and honeydew melon. If you know you don’t consume enough (like me) then get yourself a good supplement. Whenever I forget to take my fish oil supplement for a while I get dry cracked heals. 4) Love your liver- it is the bodies main detoxification organ responsible for blood cleansing, detoxing chemicals and bile production. You can support the liver by eating a wholefood diet, drinking less alcohol, reducing consumption of processed foods and using skincare, haircare products free from nasty chemicals. Drink Detox Teas that contain Liver loving herbs like St Marys Thistle, Dandelion Root and Burdock. This will reduce the toxic load on the other eliminative organs and in particular the skin. 5) Increase the filtered water you drink daily to at least two litres, add squeezed lemon or grapefruit to your water in the morning and throughout the day. Our body is comprised of around 70% water essential for healthy cellular processes. If skin is dehydrated it will present with fine lines and when pressed will not bounce back quickly looking more aged. And of course there are more than just five positive dietary changes that can be made 6) Eat or drink fermented food such as Yogurt and kombucha Tea to support the gut in its vital functions of immune support, hormone metabolism, manufacturing nutrients and eliminating toxins to name a few. A healthy digestive system while have a positive effect on the health of the skin at any age.

So in a world where women will do almost anything in the quest to look more youthful it’s important to know that yes - our diet can affect the way our skin ages. This gives us the control to make healthier choices and essentially make a positive difference to the health, vitality and ageing of our skin and not only our skin. With a holistic approach including reduced UV exposure, refraining from smoking and also stress management we can reduce fine lines, wrinkles and aged skin without the use of more invasive methods or treatments. Nicole O’Sullivan. Dip. Nut., Dip Bot. Med. Wildcrafted Organics, Luxurious Botanical Skincare.

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DERMAL

ADULT ACNE AND INFLAMMATION By Donna Marcal

Donna, originally from Canada, completed her PhD in Biochemistry at the University of Ottawa. Her work on inflammation and how the body reacts to foreign material in the body (polyurethanes) led her to conduct part of her research at the University of New South Wales in Sydney, Australia as a result of being awarded 2 different international research fellowships. And the Australian story begins! Her work on the proteomic investigation of how proteins change and are influenced by various polyurethanes interacting with inflammatory human macrophages led to further collaboration and multiple publications in highly respected research journals. She was awarded her PhD in 2007 and promptly moved to Australia to continue her work at the Australian Institute of Bioengineering and Nanotechnology (Brisbane, QLD). She was then awarded a National Science & Engineering Research Council (Canada) Post-Doctoral Fellowship and began to work with Prof Leonard Kritharides and Prof Wendy Jessup of the Macrophage Biology Group at the University of New South Wales. Donna continued this research into macrophages, protein secretion, cholesterol and atherosclerosis with further publications in the field. She is now the driving force behind Dermatonics (by Sentryca Pty Ltd) and the research behind its products. We caught up with Donna to talk about her work and her findings when it comes to adult acne and inflammation.

WHAT ARE THE KEY CAUSES OF INFLAMMATION IN AN ADULT SKIN? Inflammation is actually quite a normal response in our body, we need it to defend ourselves. However, when it is exaggerated or uncontrolled, especially in the skin, we can see quite damaging and unattractive results. Inflammation is triggered by the response to a harmful or foreign stimulus. Some examples would be an allergen or harmful chemical. Our bodies are changing as we age, so even the things we are sensitive to, can change over time. This can be why some people have quite ‘good skin’ all their life but then start to have skin issues as they age.

WHY DOES ADULT ACNE SUDDENLY APPEAR YEARS AFTER TEEN BREAKOUTS HAVE DISAPPEARED? 44

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There are several reasons why acne can suddenly rear its ugly head in adulthood. Especially in women, our hormones change. This can particularly be the case when we fall pregnant or even just during our normal cycle. Changes in diet and lifestyle can affect the appearance of acne as well.

ARE THE INGREDIENTS IN OUR PRODUCTS A CONTRIBUTING FACTOR?

Some ingredients certainly can contribute to adult acne. If ingredients are too harsh, they can damage the protective barrier that our skin is designed so well for. If this barrier is damaged, those of us with sensitive skin or skin susceptible to acne, a breakout can be triggered. Also, ingredients that are comedogenic (ie clog your pores) can contribute. It is often not one little thing that causes acne to resurface, but often many factors working together. Don’t forget stress! Stress can wreak havoc on our entire body, but definitely our skin.

WHAT ARE THE BEST INGREDIENTS AGAINST INFLAMMATION?

Some great natural, anti-inflammatory ingredients are turmeric (Curcuma), calendula, apricot kernel oil, seaweed extract and noni extract just to name a few.

IS ROSACEA RELATED TO INFLAMMATION AND IF SO, HOW?

Rosacea is a type of inflammation that shows up on the face that makes the face look quite flushed. Unfortunately, the causes are not really known and there is no cure, however it is not contagious. It can be treated so its appearance is reduced. It is quite often triggered by several different environmental factors such as alcohol, hot drinks, spicy foods, stress and also sunlight exposure.

IS INFLAMMATION IN SKIN RELATED TO THE GUT WHICH WE ARE CURRENTLY HEARING?

Inflammation in the skin certainly has links to the gut. This is a whole conversation on its own. Poor health full stop, let along poor gut health

can lead to many issues, including those that get shown in our skin. Quite often, the changes we see in our skin are a result of something going on much deeper, including in our gut.

IS ALL ACNE SKIN TREATABLE INCLUDING CYSTIC ACNE?

Acne should be treatable in all cases. It’s just a matter of finding the right treatment for you and your skin and of course it requires some patience. Cystic acne will take quite some time to treat. One thing to keep in mind, if you commit to a certain skin care regime to treat your acne, stick to it! Give it at least 2 weeks. Nothing will happen overnight. For some people with really severe acne, pharmaceutical drugs may be the only thing to nip it in the butt. If you have an ongoing acne issue, be sure to see a dermatologist or skin specialist to properly analyse what is going on with your skin.

HOW DO DRUGS SUCH AS ROACUTANE SUPPRESS ACNE AND INFLAMMATION?

Roaccutane is a drug that contains the active ingredient Isotretinoin. It is a very harsh drug with some nasty side effects, but if used properly and for a short amount of time under the correct medical guidance and testing, it may be the best solution for those with severe acne. It is in a family of compounds called retinoids. Isotretinoin works by killing the P. acnes bacteria that causes acne, reduces the inflammation in the pores and reduces the amount of sebum made by glands in your skin. More information can be found about Donna and the Dermatonics range at www. dermatonics.com.au


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DERMAL

SECTIONAL PEELING By Robert Manzo

Chemical peels have been provided by skin care professionals for a while, and they have come a long way due to advancements in technology, ingredients and techniques. The spa market, and the beauty market in general, is trending toward personalisation.

How do we harness these together to deliver personalised results with peels for our clients? This article will first discuss what is in our chemical peel toolbox before detailing how this toolbox works with the anatomy of skin and providing ways to use peels in facial sections to work best for each of your clients.

THE PEEL TOOLBOX

There is no single peel or product chemistry that works for all clients. This will not be an exhaustive discussion of peels. Phenol peels are generally deep peels that will not be discussed here. AHAs. Glycolic acid and AHAs primarily remove 46

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skin from the surface. Their job is to smooth texture, and they can start cellular rebuilding of collagen and elastin through injury response depending on the pH and concentr¬ation. Lactic acid can change the behaviour of the stratum corneum and set up an enhanced barrier function, which may yield a more hydrated surface for some time after the peel. BHAs. Salicylic acid can work in several ways depending on dose and pH. It can act as an antiinflammatory, an exfoliant and an oil suppressant. Trichlor¬oacetic acid (TCA).Depending on dose and pH, TCA can smooth skin, remediate fine lines and wrinkles, and slowly start to depigment skin.

Peel Additives. Retinoids (retinol or retinoic acid) can help to normalise epidermal skin turnover. It is also used to facilitate the “sheet peeling” effect in some peels. Hydroquinone is used to lighten skin as it decreases melanin.

FACIAL ANATOMY

Now that we have established the tool box, how do we use this to provide a personalised experience for clients? It involves an understanding of skin anatomy. Facial, neck and décolleté skin varies in thickness and sensitivity to peels. The roughest part of the skin in appearance is usually in the forehead. The thinner and more sensitive parts


of the face include the eye area, neck and parts of the décolleté. Most oil tends to be produced in the sebaceous glands, which are in the lower chin, sides of the nose and glabella area between the brows. Pigmentation, in general, tends to affect the bridge of the nose across the cheeks and the upper forehead on both sides. Peel Selection Checklist Before choosing which peel to apply on a certain section of the face, first go through the following checklist: • Ensure that the peels (not deep peels) are self-neutralising peels (superficial or middepth). These are the easiest and most effective in sectional peel techniques. • Choose your peels based upon the condition you will be treating. It is important to select peels that have a fairly narrow focus of product chemistry (glycolic, salicylic, etc.). The reason for this is that when you decide to perform sectional peels as part of a personalised program, you want to be able to treat different parts of the face in different ways. Choosing a peel that tries to do all things at one time will limit your options in sectional peel techniques. • Know the pH of your peel. Different manufacturers use different formulation techniques for their peels. Some buffer their peels, so while they may say 30% or 70% glycolic acid, the buffering process reduces the effective acidity of the peel and results in a lower efficacy peel. This is also important for safety. • Know your acid concentr¬ations. You can mix and/ or match manufacturers of the peels, but it’s important to know pH and acid concentr¬ations. • Check expiration dates of the peels. They can become more acidic, less acidic and can even build up pressure in their packaging if unstable. Be careful!

MATCH YOUR PEEL WITH THE CLIENT The first step is always to perform a personalized consultation to ensure you and your client have the same expectations. Ensure that you update your health records with the client relative to any new health conditions that may have arisen, including pregnancies or any other condition which could exclude her from a peel. Pay special attention to any skin changes you can observe or measure with imaging equipment or other types of skin biometric equipment.

One thing to be clear on when analysing skin is the difference between client-reported dryness and actual skin hydration. Remember, a client is not dry or oily, but rather hydrated, not hydrated or has varying levels of hydration (moisture in or on their skin). The client also has varying degrees of oil on their skin. These properties are separate and distinct. Many people report having dry skin to their skin care professional when it is fully hydrated but has no oil on it when analysed through biometric means. This condition means the skin lacks the ability to be flexible and supple because there is no oil to provide lubricity. This

gives the client the impression that her skin is dry. Once you have made the proper determination of current facial properties, then you can select the proper personalised peel protocol.

Again, three layers are applied, paying close attention to the client’s tolerance level. This will remove several layers of the stratum corneum revealing a younger surface that is smoother, with more even tone and texture. It will also lighten the pigment on the surface.

Think about the client who wants to manage several different aspects of her skin in the same peel process, including uneven tone, rough texture, enlarged pores and small pigment spots on her face. Do you do a glycolic peel, salicylic peel, combination peel or TCA peel? Of course, you are going to perform a sectional peel on her to provide the most comprehensive and personalised experience and result for her. You have discovered the following through your analysis and observations: 1. Pore size is significantly enlarged due to chronic oil deposition into her pores without proper maintenance (extractions) over time. 2. Her skin is exhibiting a bit of hyperker¬atotic behaviour, which has led to a fair amount of dead skin accumulating on the surface. 3. She has several obvious dark spots and some underlying pigmentation as seen on imaging analysis. 4. She has slight darkness around the eye area, which has been identified as genetic melanin banding.

Peel 3: Lactic peel. Lastly, the entire face will have the lactic acid peel applied in the same three-layer process as before. The lactic acid will deeply hydrate the skin for several days while the skin desquamates from the salicylic acid and glycolic acid sectional peel.

You have decided to select a 10% salicylic acid peel, a 70% glycolic peel and a lactic acid peel, but why?

It is critical to understand the chemistry of your peel—concentation, pH and buffering. It is also important to understand the skin anatomy and physiology to know where and how to apply each peel. Finally, treat each client in a personalized way with regard to her skin. Use all the techniques and tools you have been given to optimize the look and esthetic of your client.

Peel 1: Salicylic peel. The 10% salicylic acid peel will be applied on the inside of the cheeks and across the nose as well as the chin and nominal forehead. This will be the first peel applied and done with three layers according to the client’s tolerance. The salicylic acid peel will suppress the oil glands from overproducing oil on the skin as well as clearing the pores from the residual sebum plugs that remain over time. Peel 2: Glycolic peel. The glycolic peel will be performed across the forehead and on the rest of the face slightly overlapping the salicylic peel areas, which have been previously completed.

It is important to note that the efficacy or success of a peel is not dependant on how much peeling takes place or if the client “sheet” peels. Clients like to see peeling after a peel, but it is important to let them know that the amount and type of peeling will be different for everyone and that it does not predict the ultimate success of the peel.

POST-CARE

Care needs to be taken in post-care to apply the proper sunscreen. Depending on the Fitzpatrick level of the skin, post-inflammatory hyperpig¬mentation (PIH) should be assessed on or around day 10 of the peel. If PIH starts is present, depigmen¬tation procedures should be started.

Robert Manzo is the president of Skinprint and has over 25 years of clinical research and development in skin care and cosmetic chemistry. Manzo holds 15 patents in a variety of disciplines and is both an author and industry speaker. www. skinprint. com Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

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PROFILE

NON-INVASIVE EYEBROW LIFTING

By Dr Oksana Shatrova, Medical dermatologist and methodologist trainer at Strategy M Ltd

The human face is incredibly expressive: a person can convey their joy, anger, disgust, pleasure, reverie, concern and many other emotions, thoughts and experiences without actually saying a word.

Mimicry - complex associated movements of mimic muscles is what makes the nonverbal language of a human face possible. Over a million non-verbal signals (both mimic and gestural) used by people in different countries have been described and catalogued. Amazingly, unlike spoken communication, the non-verbal language is in fact international—we can explain many things with our facial expressions even if we don’t speak the other person’s language.

move allowing people to walk and do all sorts of things. Mimic muscles are only attached to the bone at one point—the points of the attachment are located on the facial bones. The second attachment point is basically a knot of muscle fibres entwined directly into the facial skin, and unlike skeletal attachment points, the outside or

cutaneous ones can be located in many different ways and their anatomy varies significantly from person to person. Mimic muscles attached to the skin are intertwined in the deep layers of the skin, but the surface fibres can rise even to the dermal level

Mimic movements are possible because mimic muscles are different from skeletal in a very important way. A skeletal muscle is always attached to the bone at least at two points. When a muscle contracts or relaxes, the musculoskeletal tendinous apparatus makes a 48

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

left to right photographs before the first procedure and after 5 Myo-Fix procedures (in 5 weeks).


left to right photographs after 1, 2, 3 and 5 procedures (in 5 weeks) respectively. The blue lines demonstrate the dynamics of the changes in the eyebrows position.

and are found in the papillary layer. And when certain mimic patterns—a habitual grimace or a particular facial expression—prevail, a constant local compression of the skin leads to the development of defects of a dermal level—this is how creases and wrinkles appear on the face. The more varied a person’s mimicry is, the longer their face appears young, although general health and skin’s condition certainly affect the wrinkles appearance as well. The epidermis and dermal layer’s dehydration, the decrease of the metabolic activity in the deep skin layers, the increase in the activity of the free radicals, malnutrition and finally the external damaging factors, such as smoking, excessive sunbathing, insufficient skin care, sleep deprivation, high stress levels and so on, accelerate the formation of wrinkles. When several damaging factors are present, for example if a person smokes, suntans a lot and neglects her cosmetic care, wrinkles may appear prematurely and become rather noticeable even at a young age.

the skin needs to be prepared. The three stage preparation protocol used in the program ensures the preservation and full penetration of the peptides due to nicotine induced vasodilation and anti oxidant protection. In the process of the skin preparation blood vessels are strengthened and tissue metabolism is activated in the areas where preparation solutions are applied, while the skin is smoothed out and moisturised as well. Myo-Fix program can be used for the general correction of mimic wrinkles and skin rejuvenation, as well as brow lifting and visible rejuvenation of the eye area and the upper third of the face.

Today there are many ways to reduce mimic wrinkles, most popular and widespread being the injections of botulinum toxin. In recent years a non-invasive method of affecting the tone of mimic muscles has been developed—the application of the solutions containing biologically active neurotransmitter modulating peptides onto the active mimic zones.

The Myo-Fix program performed by a professional fully qualified and familiar with all application methods of the solutions used in the procedure, allows to widen the range of cosmetic services and attract new patients looking to rejuvenate the upper third of the face and eye area.

The wrinkle correcting peptides in the Meder Beauty Science Myo-Fix program are small lipophilic molecules able to penetrate into the skin over the epidermal barrier and denervate the mimic muscles fibres at the points of their attachment to the skin. To ensure the maximum penetration of the peptides during the procedure

RESULTS

A course of non-invasive wrinkle correction can reduce wrinkles in the upper and middle thirds of the face; smooth out nasolabial folds and lines around the mouth; improve the skin’s tonicity; moisturise, brighten, even out the skin tone and texture; lift the outward ends of the brows making the face look more open, expressive and young.

After the full Myo-Fix course mimic wrinkles smooth out, the facial mimicry becomes less active and the facial tone brightens and evens out. If the concentrate is applied in the centre of the forehead and the lateral eye area, the ends of eye brows rise slightly for a youthful, lively and expressive look without any risk of the infamous “Mephistopheles eyebrows”.

Naturally, the procedures affect the overall skin condition as well as the facial muscles tone. After the course the skin’s ability to retain moisture is improved, the skin tone is more even, pores shrink, and the skin is more toned up and elastic. Proper, individually prescribed cosmetic care at home makes the results more visible and lasting. On the day of the procedure the patient should avoid swimming, going to a sauna or sun parlour, sun bathing at the beach and intensive workouts. If a client cannot avoid being in the sun on the day, they should apply a sun screen or mineral makeup powder to protect the skin from the sun. Duration of a non-invasive correction procedure: 60 min. Duration of the course: a standard course consists of 5 procedures. If a patient has overly active mimicry or very deep wrinkles, two courses can be performed in a row. The interval between the procedures is 3–7 days. The photos are used with the patients’ permission. The photographs have not been processed or tempered with. Individual results may vary. Meder Beauty Science distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

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PROFILE

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT AHAs When it comes to transforming the way your skin looks and feels; there are few ingredients as effective as Alpha Hydroxy Acids (aka AHAs). It’s an abbreviation you’ve likely seen and heard before, and for good reason. Achieving skincare hero status Alpha Hydroxy Acids, otherwise known as AHAs, are a potent exfoliant helping to clear dull, tired skin to reveal a fresher, more youthful complexion. But how do AHAs achieve this? Here we take a look at what AHAs are, and how they can help boost any skincare regime.

WHAT ARE AHAs? Chemical substances, which can be naturally or synthetically formulated, AHAs include lactic acid, derived from milk; malic acid, found naturally occurring in apples; and citric acid and glycolic acid, derived from citrus fruit and sugar cane respectively. When applied topically, AHAs act to weaken the bond between skin cells, allowing debris and dead cells to be lifted away. In this way, AHAs work similar to an exfoliating scrub, except they rely on a chemical reaction rather than manual exfoliation to remove any dead cells.

HOW DO AHAs BENEFIT THE SKIN? AHAs can be found in a wide variety of skincare products, and help to target a wide range of concerns. In addition to exfoliation, AHAs can also help to improve the appearance of photo-damage, as well as dry skin and hyperpigmentation, or melasma. Furthermore, AHAs have been found to help treat acne, minimising the appearance of blemishes. They can also be used to address visible signs of ageing by smoothing skin as well as improving texture and tone.

The degree to which AHAs work on the skin however depends on the concentration (as well as pH). It is important to consult a skin technician prior to using AHA-based products for the first time.

WHAT ARE BHAs THEN? If you’ve come across the term ‘BHAs’, you might be wondering what the difference is between them and their AHA counterpart. Both are commonly included in skincare products, and work to promote cell turnover. AHAs are water-soluble, and the most common are Glycolic, Lactic, and Mandelic. BHAs usually refer to salicylic acid, a powerful anti-inflammatory agent often used in acne treatments, meaning that they are often recommended for people with oily skin.

WHERE TO FIND THEM… Harnessing potent ingredient combinations to deliver visible results, AHAs feature in our Even Skintone Range alongside Bearberry Extract and Niacinamide — to help target the causes of uneven skin tone — and as a new ingredient in our Ultra Clear range. Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid works to decongest skin by deeply exfoliating and cleaning pores it is also available as a professional-only skin peel, part of the Vita-CLEAR Skin Workout, it forms an exceptional in clinic treatment for congested or problematic skin while the VitaLIFT ACE Power Facial contains both AHAs and BHAs for a truly effective treatment, leaving skin feeling clear and rejuvenated. www.ultraceuticals.com


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WAXING

Jax Wax Australia lead the way with

AUSTRALIAN WATTLE AND DAINTREE BLACKBEAN WAXES By Rosie Hopgood, National Sales & Marketing Manager – Jax Wax P/L

Following the successful launch of Jax Wax Australia and the release of their new packaging, Jax Wax are excited to add new waxes into their range; Australian Wattle hot and strip wax and Daintree Blackbean hot and strip wax. These new products are available in the new 500gm resealable bags and tubs as well as roller head cartridges ensuring every salon’s and client’s individual needs can be met. Tina Copland, Managing Director of Jax Wax said, “We have conducted extensive research and development into the manufacture of these products to ensure that they reach our customers high standards which they associate with all our other products. These new products have been tested all around the world in every climate and the reviews are unanimous: they the best waxes we have ever manufactured” Tina said. Combined with the new distinctive packaging, Jax Wax are expecting strong sales not only in Australia but also internationally. Jax Wax Australia’s new Daintree Blackbean beaded hot wax and strip wax has an earthy sandalwood and cedarwood fragrance. Blackbean, also known as the Morton Bay Chestnut is a flowering plant native to the rainforest regions along the east coast of northern Australia. Renowned for its stunning red and yellow flowering displays, the Black bean is one of the largest families of flowering plants. Black Beans are a hardy plant that can tolerate a variety of conditions including frost, heavy shade and full sun. Jax Wax Australia’s Daintree Blackbean Wax has been formulated for strong coarse hair and can be used in a variety of climates including frosty cooler climates and burning desert sun. Indigenous Australians found the Black Bean’s seeds a reliable, source of protein, fat and fibre. Beauty professionals will also find Jax Wax Australia’s Daintree Blackbean Wax to be a reliable high performance wax especially suited to tough male hair.

Daintree Blackbean Wax is great for sensitive skin that is susceptible to breakouts as the Cedarwood essential oil has anti-inflammatory properties which help to protect, calm and soothe the skin. Barbers will appreciate this beaded hot was wax as it is smooth, extremely workable and perfect to sculpt around beards or use for full face application to remove coarse thick hair. The hot wax is also ideal for male or female intimate waxing as it sets up quickly in all environments and removes the shortest of hairs. The Daintree Blackbean Strip Wax spreads thin, while the dark colour allows you to see where it has been applied, it leaves zero residue and is exceptional at removing coarse multidirectional hair growth. Jax Wax Australia’s new Australian Wattle hot and strip wax has a luxurious honeysuckle and magnolia fragrance. Wattles, also called acacias, are an iconic component of the Australian bush, are Australia’s official floral emblem and feature on the Australian Commonwealth Coat of Arms. Found in all areas of Australia, wattles are tolerant of a broad range of conditions and they are adapted to cope with hot, dry climates. Jax Wax Australia’s Australian Wattle Wax has been formulated for use in a wide range of climates from tropical conditions through to cooler regions and for various skin types including delicate menopausal skin. Indigenous Australians used wattles routinely for a very wide range of purposes: from food and medicines, to utensils, weapons and musical instruments. Jax Wax Australia’s Australian Wattle Wax is also suitable for a wide range of waxing services from delicate facial waxing to the coarsest Brazilian wax

Australian Wattle beaded hot/hard wax is the definitive wax for facial and Brazilian waxing as its unique formulation makes it perfect for mature, menopausal and / or fragile skin. This wax glides effortlessly over the skin, sets quickly on top while remaining pliable as it is lifted from the skin removing the finest to the coarsest of hairs. The Australian Wattle strip/soft wax has an iridescent golden lustre which can be applied quickly and easily with a spatula or cartridge, the smallest amount will give you ultimate coverage, without leaving any sticky residue and ensuring value for money. 2018 is expected to be a time of growth, with Jax Wax anticipating their global and domestic reach to increase securing their position as an industry leader in the beauty field within Australia and around the world. www.adamandeve.net.au


delicate | ˈdԑlɪkət | adjective 1 very fine in texture or structure; of intricate workmanship or quality: a delicate but effective depilatory wax. 2 easily broken or damaged; fragile: delicate menopausal skin. 3 requiring sensitive or careful handling: delicate areas such as eye brows.

adamandeve.net.au

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Australian Wattle by Jax Wax Australia is the perfect wax for all things delicate

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MAKE UP SHOP 1

1. SAINT + SINNER EYESHADOW PALETTE BY KAT VON D

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Honor the two sides in all of us with the ultimate collection of eyeshadows inspired by the kaleidoscopic stained glass windows of Old World Gothic cathedrals. Kat Von D’s holiday collection celebrates the return of her beloved, bestselling Saint + Sinner fragrance collection.Open the palette’s double doors to unveil 24 pigment-packed shades, divided into two sides that mirror Kat’s own duality. Embrace your softer side with 12 saintly shades— dreamy, wearable, and effortlessly romantic. Unleash your inner Sinner with 12 bold color pops—empowering, unexpected, and insanely pigmented www.katvondbeauty.com

2. X FIX LIPS BY STAGELINE

Stageline has created a long matte lasting liquid lip colour with high coverage in coral, peach, and nude tones. Once X Lips Fix is dry, lips remain perfectly made up for hours without transferring colour to glasses, napkins, etc.. Parabens free. Tone 07: An outstanding orange red. Perfect for those looking for an intense coral look and that suits almost all Lips, from the most pale to the darkest. Tone 08: A delicious peach tone with an imposing pink undertone and soft finish. Tone 09: The nude tone of the collection to create more natural looks. Ideal for those who prefer to draw attention and highlighting other features of the face. For stockists contact www.lfbi.com.au

3. FOREVER MATT LONG WEAR LIPSTICK BY MODELROCK

Modelrocks newest release Forever Matt Long Wear Lipstick are for anyone who loves a long wear liquid to matte lipstick but prefers a traditional style lippy instead... with the same long wear properties as a liquid lippy! Opaque in texture with an intense colour pay-off, Forver Mattes Long Wear Lipsticks are smooth and creamy in application, delivering a matte finish that lasts for hours. www.modelrocklashes.com

4. COLOUR MATT CRAYONS BY YOUNGBLOOD

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Ultra - hydrating retractable lip crayon packed with intense colour in stunning summer shades www.youngbloodmineralcosmetics.com.au

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5. RADIANT GLOW ILLUMINATOR BY CURTIS COLLECTION

Bring your skin to life with our radiance boosting, skin perfecting illuminator. This iconic liquid hightlighter will transform your complexion instantly delivering the most eye catching, luminous glow. www.curtiscollection.com.au

6. INSTANT EYE PALETTE BY CHARLOTTE TILBURY

Whether you want to create a natural look, a sophisticated smokey eye, divine date night makeup or rock chick party eye, this eyeshadow palette gives you an instant airbrushed look with NEW blendable, buildable shades. The fantastic new LIMITED EDITION, control-pressed formula is designed for less eyeshadow fallout and more control. www.charlottetilbury.com

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7. DECO MAKE UP RANGE BY DERMAVIDUALS

dermaviduals, known for true bespoke skincare, is pleased to bring you the new dermaviduals deco range. The brand new deco range is everything that the celebrated skincare line is: customisable (bespoke foundation for any skin complexion), pure (no nasties), corrective (adhering to the principles of corneotherapy) and based on science using their world-renowned DMS technology. Managing Director of dermaviduals, Reika Roberts says, “The dermaviduals deco range is truly unique with the ability to create customised makeup solutions for every individual and skin condition. Made from the highest quality ingredients, skin caring substances and natural moisturisers, dermaviduals deco is free from fragrances, preservatives, emulsifiers, artificial colours, mineral oils, silicones and amines. Products are gentle on the skin, enhancing the journey to skin health www.dermaviduals.com.au

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h s i l y t S r e p Su LASH & BROW BAR

d e d i S e l b u o D ! n o i t a t S k r Wo

NEW

The NEW Refectocil Lash & Brow Bar is small, light, with an integrated handle that allows carrying The NEW Refectocil from work station to light, work Lash & Brow Bar is small, station. Also with holders for with an integrated cotton swabs & accessories. handle that allows carrying

rom work station to work Contains: station. Also with holders for 8 x Refectocil Tint Colours (Black, Graphite, Blue Black, Blue, Light Brown, Brown, Chestnut & Red), cotton swabs & accessories. 1 x Refectocil Blonde Brow, 1 x Micellar Make Up Remover 150ml, 1 x Tint Remover 150ml,

1 x Oxidant Cream 100ml, 1 x Skin Protection Cream 75ml, 1 x Silicone Eye Pads (2), 1 x Artist Palette, Contains: 1 x Application Brushes soft (5), 1 x Application Brushes hard (5), 1 x Styling Gel

8 x Refectocil Tint Colours (Black, Graphite, Blue Black, Blue, Light Brown, Brown, Chestnut & Red), 1 x Refectocil Blonde Brow, 1 x Micellar Make Up Remover 150ml, 1 x Tint Remover 150ml, 1 x Oxidant Cream 100ml, 1 x Skin Protection Cream 75ml, 1 x Silicone Eye Pads (2), 1 x Artist Palette, 1 x Application Brushes soft (5), 1 x Application Brushes hard (5), 1 x Styling Gel

www.refectocil.com.au


TANNING SHOP 1. TROPICAL PRINTS BY KAF TANNED

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Kaf.Tanned Tanning & Fashion Apparel goes tropical! Ferns, nature and fun, shop their new jungle love prints today. kaftanned.com.au

2. SELF TANNER BY DERMAVIDUALS

dermaviduals is pleased to announce their new Self Tanner just in time for summer. The dermaviduals Self Tanner helps reduce uneven skin tone caused by tiny blood vessels near the surface, spider vains and acne scars to create beautiful, even skin. The membrane cream (lamellar structure) has active agents DHA (INCI: dihydroxyacetone) and erythrulose to provide an even tan and complexion. Using only the highest quality ingredients that are fragrance free and won’t irritate or cause breakouts, the key benefits include: www.dermaviduals.com.au

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3. WATER RESISTANT TAN BY NAKED TAN

Sick and tired of getting cancellations on rainy days? Or are your clients sweating gym junkies? Our Water-Resistant Tan is your new go to! Get the Naked Tan you love with the added benefits. Not only is this product Water-Resistant but it’s enriched with Aloe Vera and Argan Oil to keep your skin hydrated. Made from 14% DHA this 2hr Wash ‘n’ Wear will have your clients bronzed rain, hail or shine! www.nakedtan.com.au

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4. CACOA RICHE TAN BY TAN BY LUCY LANE

Cacao Riche, one of our popular dark tans (green base) that suits all skin colours and is a fabulous all rounder. www.tanbylucylane.com.au

5. NEW PACKAGING INSTANT SELFTAN MOUSSE BY SUNESCAPE

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Transform your skin in an instant with this super-lightweight, non-sticky, easy-to-apply velvety mousse. No time to have a spray tan? With Sunescape’s Hydrating Self-Tan Mousse you can achieve a radiant bronzed tan in minutes. The instant natural colour will also help to smooth irregular skintone, hide cellulite and disguise stretch marks, making it every girl or guy’s best friend. www.sunescape.com.au

6. TAN OF NATURE BY COMFORTEL

Tan of Nature is a luxuriously spray tan solution that provides a deep, honey-dipped glow. The all-moisturising, natural and organic formula gives a deeper, longer lasting colour that is fast drying and fades evenly. Infused with Argan oil that is full of vitamins, this totally hydrating formula will leave your skin feeling soft, silky and nourished while invigorating the skin with the perfect golden tan. Proudly Australian made and owned, this vegan friendly, hypoallergenic spray tan is the number one choice in natural spray tans with a musky, luxe scent - just like cashmere. www.comfortel.com.au

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TANNING TIPS for the perfect tan PREPAPE FOR YOUR TAN BY EXFOLIATING AND REMOVING DEAD SKIN USING OUR GODDESS BODY EXFOLIATOR

DON’T SHAVE OR WAX ANY LATER THAN 24 HOURS BEFORE YOUR TAN. DON’T USE MOISTURISER THE DAY OF YOUR TAN - IT WILL CREATE A BARRIER BETWEEN YOUR SKIN AND THE TANNING SOLUTION.

STAY AWAY FROM DEODORANT AND PERFUME OR ANY OTHER BODY SPRAYS ON THE DAY OF YOUR SPRAY TAN.

USE OUR GODDESS BODY CLEANSER WHEN SHOWERING THE DAY OF THE TAN AND WHILST WEARING YOUR TAN, IT IS AN SLS FREE CLEANSER AND YOUR TAN WILL LAST LONGER.

DON’T LEAVE YOUR NAKED TAN ON YOUR SKIN FOR LONGER THAN 5 HOURS. THE COLOUR WILL BE COMPROMISED IF YOU SLEEP IN IT.

TO MAINTAIN YOUR TAN KEEP YOUR SKIN HYDRATED AND MOISTURISED WITH OUR CREME DE LA CREME. THIS WILL KEEP YOUR TAN STREAK FREE!

BOOST THE COLOUR AND LIFE OF YOUR TAN WITH OUR GODDESS GRADUAL TAN OR FOR AN EXTRA GLOW TRY OUR INSTANT TAN!

www.nakedtan.com.au


BEAUTY SHOP 1. PRECLEANSE BALM BY DERMALOGICA

PreCleanse Balm cuts through the build-up in just one application, setting the state for your healthiest-looking skin ever. A water-activated formula that transforms from a balm to an oil, PreCleanse Balm is an innovative take on Dermalogica’s iconic, top-selling PreCleanse Oil. Ideal for normal to dry skin types, PreCleanse Balm features a Natural Biolipid Complex that locks in hydration and reinforces the skin barrier while Apricot Kernel Oil helps nourish the skin www.dermalogica.com.au

2. BLEMISH AOXTM BY MEDIK8 BLEMISH

AOXTM is a powerful, advanced and stable antioxidant system delivered in a lightweight and 100% oil-free serum. Copper PCA, a revolutionary ingredient from Medik8, provides optimum antioxidant performance 40 times greater than that of regular vitamin C. Boosted with beta-glucan and niacinamide, Blemish AOXTM keeps skin functioning at its best. www.medik8.com.au

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3. REFECTOCIL STYLING GEL BY LFBI

Due to its complex formula, the RefectoCil Styling Gel “Protect & Care” for eyebrows and lashes enriches as well as colour protection for tinted brows and lashes allowing them to appear longer as if freshly tinted. Now, unruly hairs can be managed. The gel contains a high quality composition of ingredients consisting of Vitamin E, D-panthenol and Glycerine. The RefectoCil research team has developed this formula, to provide an ideal amount of care, moisture and gloss for lashes and brows. For a groomed, radiant look after a lash and brow tint in salon and to continue use at home. New formula: Colour protection Styling + care. Hygroscopic (Retains moisture). Provides gloss. Fixes unruly hair. Vegan PLUS 28% more content (9ml) Modern and practical packaging in a tube www.refectocil.com.au

4. AGELESS TOTAL OVERNIGHT RETINOL MASQUE BY IMAGE SKINCARE

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Reveal new radiance with Image Skincare Ageless Total Overnight Retinol Masque. This concentrated masque is formulated with water bank technology to continually lock in nutrients for the ultimate beauty sleep! www.imageskincare.com.au

5. DESTRESS BY AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES

A natural blend of frankincense, petitgrain, wild camomile and rosemary oils in a convenient roller ball, to organise your thoughts. Roll over pulse points and inhale deeply, as needed. A restless mind or aching muscles are soothed and supported with our DESTRESS collection. Lavish tired muscles with energising and repairing blends of highly active essential oils for instant relief and refreshment. www.aromatherapyassociates.com.au

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6. HYDRA-MARINE GEL-BALM BY THALGO

This new product is a light creator and genuine beauty boost to revive tired skin and enhance dull, uneven complexions. Applied morning and/or night all over the face with smooth lightweight-gel texture that features the cocooning effect of a balm, the new daily beauty secret for exhausted, overworked skin. www.thalgo.com.au

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7. CHRISTMAS BY DMK

Christmas by DMK offers two amazing summer skin care collections this year. Give the gift of great skin with DMK. The Summer Body Sculpt collection is designed to gently and effectively polish, nourish, firm and tone your body’s skin. The combination of Hydra Louffa, Maximum Moisture, and Body Sculpting assists in the removal of dead skin cells; stimulates circulation and reduces the appearance of cellulite. These formulations can help to extend the life of your tan. www.dannemking.com.au

8. EYE WEB BY DMK LIMITED

Eye Web is an intensive complex formulation to improve and strengthen the delicate skin around the eyes, reducing wrinkles and file lines. With key deep ingredients all suspended in a single application, use DMK Limited™Eye Web for more beautiful eyes every day. Eye Web™benefits: Visibly firms the eye tissue, Long-term anti-ageing activities, Scientifically reduces puffiness, Diminishes fine lines and wrinkles, Brightens dark circles Contains vitamins and antioxidants www.dannemking.com.au

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9. LOVE OPI, XOXO BY OPI

Fall in love again and again with Love OPI, XOXO, a collection of 12 limited edition holiday shades. Love OPI products featured the first update to our iconic bottle since OPI’s inception in 1989. www.opi.com

10. TRAVEL SIZED SKINCARE SETS BY ULTRACEUTICALS Give the ultimate gift of glowing skin this Christmas with Ultraceuticals Ultraceuticals have designed four perfect travel-size skincare sets to accommodate all skin types and concerns this holiday season. Each kit includes a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect the skin against harmful UV radiation during the summer months, plus all products are formulated with maximum safety and effectiveness to achieve real visible results for glowing, festive skin! www.ultraceuticals.com.au

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11. EYE DEFENCE BY ENBACCI

Containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to boost collagen production and optimise skin cell communication, the Age Revitalising Eye Defence cream nourishes the eye area with antioxidant-rich Lecithin fatty acids, including vitamins A, C and E from Sunflower Oil, to fight free radicals, increase water absorption, and reinforce the skin’s natural barrier. Ideal for preventative and maintenance skincare regiments alike, the Age Revitalising Eye Defence cream is fragrance free and suitable for morning and evening use. Available nationally via Enbacci’s online store and flagship Melbourne store, the Age Revitalising Eye Defence cream retails for $88 RRP for a 15ml pump. www.enbacci.com

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BEAUTY SHOP

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12. LOTUS DETOXIFYING OVERNIGHT TREATMENT BY EMINENCE ORGANIC

Wake up to revitalised, radiant skin with this lightweight gel cream treatment infused with melt - in jojoba oil beads. Worn overnight, this treatment helps prevent water loss and supercharges skin with vitamins and minerals for a dewy complexion. www.eminenceorganics.com .au

13. SOCIAL MEDIA PHOTOGRAPHY MADE EASY WITH COMFORTEL’S RING LIGHT

Every salon professional in the industry knows just how essential photography is for their social media and marketing. If you want to showcase your best work, take stunning photos in your salon, or even enhance the overall look of your salon space, Comfortel’s Ring Light is for you. The Comfortel Luma Ring Light is a professional Ring Light with tripod that takes photos of clients using your Smart Phone. With adjustable Bi Colour temperature controls, this Ring Light can adjust to warm or cool light by just one dial, without the use of swapping filters. Simply turn the dial to adjust the lighting from a warm candlelight of 3200K to cool daylight of 5600K. With this much control, it allows you to select the right settings for the perfect look and showcase your work and share it to your followers with just a click of a button. www.comfortel.com.au

14. GENTLE PEELING EXFOLIANT BY ELF COSMETICS

This Gentle Peeling Exfoliant cleanser gently peels away dead skin, leaving behind healthy, glowing skin. Enjoy the added benefits of tangerine, papaya, and licorice extracts. www.elfcosmetics.com.au

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15. SKIN KARMA KIT BY ULTRADERM

The beautiful new skin karma kit contains a selection of Ultraderm faves: Skin Karma Cleanser 200ml, Skin Karma Moisturiser 30ml, Face & Body Polishing Cream 50ml, Chamois + case www.ultrqaderm.com.au

16. NEW BATTERY BACK UP POWER SUPPLY FOR ELECTRIC TREATMENT TABLES BY COMFORTEL.

Comfortel now offer battery back up power supply on many of their treatment tables. Why is this important? Firstly it gives you assurance that if the power ever goes out, you know have back up power to run your treatments and continue business. Secondly, it’s a great option for when you don’t want a power cord running from your table to the to the wall. Simply charge the battery at night and plug it into your bed to have power all throughout the day without the mess of cords or trip hazards. Comfortel’s Back Up Battery is an optional upgrade available for any of Comfortel’s Treatment Tables with Linak Motors www.comfortel.com.au

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W E N

Wax Pro

500

INCLUDES

500ml INSERT

P R O F E SSI O N A L

500ml

Wax Heater • High performance heating system • Variable temperature control • Suitable for all wax types

• Easy fit drip ring – easy clean • Includes 500ml insert

Contact M&U Imports for full product details on (03) 9555 1533 sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia


HOW ARE YOU TODAY? By Julie Cross

So, just how are you today? It is a question we regularly ask, as a way of a greeting almost. And so I wonder what your answer is? Because you know, it really does matter for all kinds of reasons.

You may habitually respond giving the following responses without really thinking about it, but I challenge all of us to be more aware of what we say. Let me explain… I so often hear responses like this in the workplace to the question, ‘How are you today?’ ‘Tired’, ‘Busy’, ‘Not bad’, ‘Glad when this shift ends’ … and you get my drift. So, are these really appropriate responses? Do these responses serve you and your clients? So, you may be thinking, but what if I am tired? Well you may be, but you see you don’t get less tired by telling everybody you are tired and nobody wants to be given a service or treatment by somebody that

really is too tired to be bothered. This is your work! And on this I am non negotiable! When you are at work, you are being paid to be there and to bring your best everyday, you chose to be there and do this for a job, so no matter how you are feeling you have to ‘reinvent’ yourself, fake it until you make it, and posture yourself into a new way of feeling and being. Imagine coming to one of my shows and walking up to me before I got up on stage to present to you and you asked me the question, ‘Julie, how are you?’… and imagine if my reply was, ‘Well I am a bit tired, it’s been busy’, I think would then be thinking… geez, I am not expecting it to be a great show then. You see, it does not matter if I am tired before I arrive at the venue to present, it does not matter what went on in my day up until that moment. This is what I choose to do for work, so there are some issues that must remain back stage. My audience is paying for this, they are my clients and I am obligated to give them the best I have got, and re-invent myself each and every time. And your audience, your clients, have the


right to expect that from you too.

it’ zone… but even that is better than ‘tired!’

Because you see you have a show too! Your production happens to be in the Beauty Industry and your stage is your workplace. The actors in a stage show have to reinvent themselves every night for their audience… they sing the same lines over and over again, but still they have to say it like it is opening night every time. The Director can’t come on to the stage and say to the audience, ‘I am sorry, but the team are getting a bit tired, we have some personal issues, so you won’t get a very good show, so we will just charge you half price for tickets!’ No, they expect and deserve an opening night performance every night. And that takes discipline. And if they don’t do that they risk getting poor reviews. Imagine going to see the stage show ‘Dirty Dancing’ and Baby said, I am not getting out of the corner… I am too tired! She has to get out of the corner and do the lift and so do we!

You say ‘great’ over and over again and before you know it the energy has caught up with the affirmation and you really do feel great. And isn’t great what you deserve? You see, sometimes you have to simply tell people how you want to be and not how you are.

And don’t just do it for your work or your clients, do it for you!! The words that you say will affect what you attract into your day. So what sort of day would you like? Do you want a ‘tired’ day? Or a ‘not bad’ kind of day? Notice your body language as you say those words… you are more likely to slump a little and certainly not look and ‘feel’ excited about life! I don’t know about you but I want to make my days great, I want to live a great, joyful and happy life so therefore I need to speak the language that attracts that into my life. So, how do you do that? What does it look like to ‘posture’ yourself into a better feeling attitude. Well it looks like this. When somebody asks how you are, despite how you may be feeling you answer with, ‘GREAT!’ Now you could even have a sarcastic tone to your voice, if you were in the ‘fake it until you make

Now that does not mean we deny our ‘issues’ and that we don’t have a sad and down times and we allow ourselves these moments, but they happen back stage, off stage and not on stage. The question will always be, not wether something is right or wrong, but wether or not is serves you. Does it serve us and our ‘purpose’ and ‘vision’ at work to be ‘tired’ and ‘grumpy’? Are we likely to have a successful day, inspire clients to buy from us and return to us with that energy? Will we reach our goals? Probably not, therefore it would serve you to lift your energy and bring the best of yourself to every moment you are on the stage you have chosen. And trust me, when you do that… when you have the discipline, take the responsibility to empower up and do that, well you will be invited to perform in bigger shows on bigger stages in your life! So, just how are you today? GREAT! Awesome, me too… Julie with Sparkle!


DOING NOTHING!

By Linda Woodhead, Owner of Mocha Publishing and Publisher of Beauty Biz

We have all heard the saying ‘Stop and Smell the Roses’ so many times, but how many of us actually STOP!... and do NOTHING! If you are anything like me it’s a hard ask, as I certainly like to be on the go most of the time. Feeling inspired, productive and successful in all areas of my life is important to me. I set my benchmark high. Not a bad thing but there has to be a balance with life, love, family and work.

I think some of us get worried about ‘doing nothing’ and find it hard to be ‘non-productive’ but maybe that’s because we are mis-interpreting what ‘doing nothing’ really means. To me it can mean something as simple as curling up on the couch and watching a movy, meditating, going for a walk, reading a book, sitting by the ocean, playing the piano, (I should do more of that!), even shopping!! To me its about not working, its about appreciating what I have and feeling gratitude for all that is good in my life… it’s about smelling the roses! If you are a good business owner then you will live and breathe what you do. I do. I put my blood, sweat and tears into the mocha magazines, events, awards and competitions and am always coming up with new ideas and initiatives for us to create…. More work… but I wouldn’t have it any other way. A good day is one where I have got through my list for the day and feel a sense of pride in what we have done. I am happy to say I have a lot of these days… although I do need to work on my time management for my never-ending list! Surrounding myself with like-minded individuals is an absolute must and only those who have a positive influence on my life, both in personal and business issues. They say,

‘Your vibe attracts your tribe’ this is so true. What you give out you get back so its important to also be an asset to those around you who look to you for friendship, business support, love and success. And when it comes to that tribe…why waste time and energy on people who do not have your best interests at heart and why give your valuable expertise to those who do not value and appreciate it! Pretty simple really. Strive for that work life balance. It’s not that hard and you deserve it! I hear successful people talk about how they have not been ‘lucky’, but instead have worked bloody hard to get where they are and what they have, so ‘work hard to play hard’ is a good motivation. Going back to my original point… work hard to also rest without stress or worry. Isn’t it wonderful to be able to take a breath, relax, chill on your back deck, knowing the bills have been paid, the kids and partners are all healthy and happy, staff are hitting goals, you’re on track for your business goals and your weekly list has lots of ticks! The speed in which this year as gone by is testament to just how busy we all are. We set ourselves up to dream, believe and achieve and that’s a great thing but somewhere along the way if you don’t Stop and Smell those Roses, then what’s it all for?


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THE TRUE MEANING OF SUSTAINABILITY By Paul Frasca

People come up to Ewelina and I all the time to chat about sustainability, and more often than not, they’re surprised when the conversation steers away from the environment. In the salon industry particularly, we’ve been lead to believe that if we just get rid of sulphates and parabens from our products, we’re fixing the problem. So I thought I’d take a moment here to debunk the ‘greenwashing’ our industry has been guilty of for many years now. Sustainability is about so much more than a label on a bottle, and I know you’ll love it… stick with me here. The best quote we’ve come across that truly gets to the guts of sustainability is from the Brundtland Report, published by the United Nations Commission on Environment and Development in 1987: “Sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.” It doesn’t even mention phrases like “green”, “eco”, “environmentally-friendly”… all the buzzwords we’ve become so addicted to using when we talk about sustainability. While the environment is certainly a huge part of building a sustainable future (and those phrases are necessary in our communication), there are two elements missing in most sustainability conversations – people and profit. All people have the right to be able to support themselves and their families, and a genuinely sustainable community involves everyone having the means to do so. We can start to achieve this by sharing our time, skills and resources to help those who might just need a chance to step up and out of their situation. And profit, the controversial one. The reality is that our economy does in fact make the world go around. In order to build strong, self-sufficient communities, we need to focus our energies on what’s fruitful – ethically-minded businesses that thrive and create employment, products that advance the human race without destroying our habitat, security for future generations to live in a world where quality of life is not luck of the draw, it comes standard. With all three elements in mind – people, planet and profit – Ewelina and I created Sustainable Salons Australia (SSA). It’s no secret that collectively our industry needs to do something about the Godzilla-sized footprint we make on the environment, so we’ve introduced sustainable alternatives, separating and repurposing for that. Before you even create

waste, SSA gives you access to sustainably-minded product options to help you make greener choices when it comes to the everyday items you use in the salon. You know that old saying, “first, do no harm”… sustainable solutions are the beginning of a greener future! By simply separating materials in the salon ready for repurposing, we save thousands of tonnes of materials from polluting our earth in landfill each year, while rescuing valuable resources that can actually be put to good use! Selling these collected materials for recycling means we generate extra monetary resources that we donate in full to OzHarvest. For every dollar donated, this amazing organisation feeds two disadvantaged Aussies (SSA’s donation alone feeds 2,000 people every month!), while working hard to educate the nation to reverse our wasteful food habits. These two sustainability elements together now produce strong messages about sustainability in our salon industry. Why is this important? These messages allow the salon owner to communicate, market and be part of powerful initiatives that demonstrate to the client that investing in a sustainable salon business leads to so much more than just the treatment glow they leave with. And this builds repeat business, profit, security, and a strong future for that community. Our aim always is to educate our industry and beyond that sustainability is no longer just about thinking twice before printing an email – it’s about making real, measurable change that creates a ripple effect. People, Planet, Profit. It takes all three to make the world go around for many years to come. Paul Frasca is the Co-Founder & Managing Director of Sustainable Salons Australia. His passion for sustainability started when he lived in Amsterdam where he met his partner Ewelina Soroko, a passionate environmentalist. In 2015 the pair started an innovative resource recovery program called Sustainable Salons Australia. Designed especially for the salon environment, SSA collects up to 95% of the salon’s waste bin and repurposes it for environmental and community benefit, while rewarding the salon. www.sustainablesalons.com.au


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BUSINESS

AUSTRALIAN BRANDS JOIN FORCES Australia’s leading aesthetics and beauty companies have joined forces to launch Australia’s first, and only 100% Australian interest pooling, support, buying and education group, for Aus-tralian clinic and salon owners, operators, aestheticians and therapists. Australian made aesthetics and beauty products, equipment, and education enjoy a tremen-dous reputation nationally, and internationally, yet only 25% of the $945 Million turned over each year in Australia is home grown. The Australian Beauty Collective is a group of Australia’s leading aesthetic & beauty manufacturers, service providers and educators, who have joined together to provide the very best pricing available to ABC members. There is no middle-man in Australian Beauty Collective, so you can trust that you are getting the absolute best price possible from your Australian supplier, and benefit from regular deals exclusive to our members. The Australian Beauty Collective ONLY partners with Australian made brands, as they’re cut-ting edge, results driven with dedicated post sales focus on education, and ongoing profes-sional development. During each beauty exhibition this year, it was evident that the busiest exhibitors were Australian. Clinic, salon and spa owners actively sought Australian brands for their businesses, be-cause we are here for them when they need us. Not all imported products, equipment and services are inferior. However, there is a large volume which are. As an industry we waste millions of dollars each year on unsupported, inferior imports. As professionals, we all have a duty to invest in the future generations of Australian aestheticians, therapists and innovators. During this period of rapid industry growth and inconsistent state to state regulations - the 68

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

Australian Beauty Collective have united to provide clarity, support, guidance and ease of busi-ness operations to assist the growth, and development. Providing ease of business opera-tions to all Australian clinic, salon and spa owners, operators, and therapists offering real end-to-end solutions. It is our clear focus to help businesses thrive and continue to grow. The Australian Beauty Collective is giving some love back to our industry and country. Every Australian Beauty Collective dollar supports the Australian economy, local and nationally. Making it easier operationally, morally and ethically for business owners, instilling confidence to both our fellow professionals, and our end customers. We are all excited about our official launch, and first Symposium, which proudly supports our Surf Life Savers and attendees who will choose the topics which matter to them. All ticket holders will vote, with the opportunity to raise topics they would most like covered, and to learn about during a day of unrivalled education and celebration. Everything from specif-ic skin conditions, retailing, insurance, legislations, treatment protocols, equipment to increase ROI and much more. In 2018 we will launch our Talent Hub, providing casual, contract and long-term employment solutions for our members, as well as promotional activities aimed at the end customer – your clients, further helping Australian Beauty Collective members grow their businesses!

MISSION

To provide ethical, highest quality Australian Aesthetics, Beauty & Cosmeceutical Products, Equipment, Training & Support at the best prices

on the market – NO COMPROMISE

VISION

Connecting Australia’s leading Aesthetics, Beauty & Cosmeceutical manufacturers & educators with salon & clinic owners

VALUES

Integrity. Trust. Passion. Innovation. Growth

ABC GOALS

To increase confidence, trust and profits during a period of rapid growth, and inconsistent state to state regulation for the Australian Aesthetics, Beauty & Cosmeceutical Industries Australian Beauty Collective Founding Partners • Beyond Bronze • Clairderm Medical Aesthetics • Gray Clay • Jax Wax • Jean Clare • Medici Capelli • Organic Spa • Spa & Salon Diva’s • TAFE GC • The Sparrow Group • The Esteem Institute • Ultraderm If you are an Australian brand that would like to know more about joining the Collective as a founding partner, or would like more information on becoming a founding member and attend the official launch and 1st Symposium please email: yes@australianbeautycollective.com www.australianbeautycollective.com Ph: 0499997517


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BUSINESS

THE MANAGEMENT CONUNDRUM By Narelle Lancaster

What makes a good salon manager? Someone nice? Someone fun? Someone no-nonsense? Someone from another industry? The recipe for a good manager is not easy to create and often boils down to the person and possible potential.

Where are they? How do I find one? Answers that are rare and difficult to pinpoint. People often assume they themselves are good managers – we can all think of someone who is a bad manager, but what about you? Are you really that good? And if you are, how did you get there? For many salon owners a manager can be make or break their bottom line. It’s no wonder they get so angry if a manager isn’t doing a good job. But ask yourself before you fire them, what role have you played in their success? Here are some of the issues with poor management and how to fix them: 70

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6

1. YOU PROMOTED INTERNALLY AND NOW YOU WISH YOU HADN’T.

Sophia was a great therapist. Really enthusiastic, super seller and all the team loved her. She regularly made her bonus and she seemed to know her stuff. What could go wrong? Sophia was flattered by the promotion and extra money but didn’t understand what would really be involved in management. She didn’t like the idea of hounding her work friends to prescribe product and didn’t really get how important it was to reach targets overall. After a few months Sophia quit. Now you have no one to manage and need to find a quick replacement.

How this could be better managed: Not everyone makes the transition from team member to manager at the same salon/spa. Most don’t. Being so close to the other team members on equal footing means a promotion brings change. Things are not the same. New responsibilities delivered by an old friend causes frustration and resentment. Seek fresh blood. Look around at your competitors. Find someone who embodies what you seek and approach them.

2. YOU EMPLOYED EXTERNALLY AND THE TEAM ARE MAKING THEIR LIFE HELL.


Norlena was a good therapist, happy to be in the team and knew a lot of people. In her mind she was management material. When a vacancy came up you didn’t pick her, you hired someone new and behind the scenes Norlena is toxic and badmouthing the new manager at every (secret) turn – she’s also managing to do a good job influencing the team to turn against the “intruder”. How this could be better managed: Norlena is never going to be happy until she is the manager. She is going to be resentful and now knows you don’t think she can do it because you didn’t view her as a suitable replacement manager. Her influence is strong over other team members and she is acting like Queen Bea in Prisoner! You need to get rid of her ASAP.

3. THE PERSON YOU’D REALLY LIKE TO PROMOTE JUST ISN’T MANAGEMENT MATERIAL. Lisa was kind hearted, well liked and genuine. Always a hard worker, never complained and constantly professional but she was pretty shy and felt selling was fake and pressured. Lisa would never think to apply for manager though secretly wishes she could be in charge.

How this could be better managed: Admittedly, this will go to either extreme. A disaster or a huge success. Be prepared for both if you take this route. There is the potential if given the right training, encouragement and nurturing that Lisa could become your biggest success story. But she will need training and time. If you don’t have that, definitely be mindful it’s recommended. A Lisa who blossoms will offer the team inspiration, perseverance and loyalty – things that are very hard to come by in most salons and certainly something you can’t force. A little bit of Lisa might be worth her weight in gold. How to set up any manager for success: - Train them - Allow them time - Encourage them “Training” has such simmering resentment behind it in our industry. There’s a perception that training happens before new employment. No-one wants to train anyone because “staff leave”. One small salon chain I worked for made us pay $500 for training and docked our wages of it if we left. Here’s some news: staff leave. Newsflash: across all industries. So pledge some good training karma and grow your staff – it just may help your business! Allow them time – it’s tough being new to a job. It’s not possible to know everything at the start. Remember the mistakes you made at your jobs sometimes? Be kind. Give them a few weeks to settle in and work out their contribution to your business. Encourage them – no shallow movie passes or cheap mementos please! Staff see straight through this. The best encouragement is from the salon owner’s mouth. Letting your staff know how much you value them, how much you know their efforts builds your business and how much

you appreciate them is much more important than tokenism. Words of encouragement and training will go a long way to developing your complete team. Building trust, empowerment and responsibility brings personal and professional growth and will last a lot longer than a long forgotten movie and helps build our industry. Do say: “You’re the manager now, what do you need? How can I help you?”

Don’t say: “You’re the manager now, ok byeeeee” Narelle Lancaster is a Certified Practicing Marketer and Fellow of the Australian Marketing Institute, a lecturer in advertising at RMIT University, an independent researcher and Director of MKTG – a marketing consulting agency. She also holds a beautician diploma and nearly failed her nails exam.

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BUSINESS 5 tips for fast-tracking your

SALON SUCCESS FOR THE NEW YEAR

By Tara Sharland

Can you smell 2018 in the air? I can, and it reeks of opportunity – a chance to create a fresh “business you” and a new lease on salon life for the coming year. But before you go grabbing 2018 by the horns like a bull in a china shop, let me help you get clear on where to start, what to focus on and how to create a plan rather than a dodgy to-do list. Are you the sort of salon owner who starts wondering in January why you’re quiet and where all your clients went? If so, you’ve fallen for a common trap. In November and December you were too busy to plan, right? You’re not the first and you won’t be last … but you should have got cracking well before the silly season. I always say that summer bodies are made in August and rocking salons are made in September and October. Don’t despair if you missed the memo. Here are my top five tips to fast-track your planning and set up 2018 to be your best year yet. Ready, set, go!

TIP #1: LOOK BACK TO GO FORWARD.

Review and reflect. Cast a critical eye back over your last six months. What could you have done differently to change what’s happening now? Did you engage your clients and given them an awesome reason to return in January and February? Did you tell them you’re booking up and would love for them to get their preferred appointment time? Did you plant the seed that foils in the new year would really frame and contour their hairline? Knowing that you’re going to busy in December, could you have pre-planned your marketing back in September? With all that in mind, write a meaningful list of what you could do now to change how 2018 unfolds.

TIP #2: USE YOUR NOW TIME WISELY.

Maybe you’ve been left some dead time between clients and are freaking out about what to do next. Use it wisely. Instead of wedging in a phone call or a lazy scroll through social media, review your list (see Tip #1). Do you see any common themes? Is it marketing to existing clients to make sure you don’t lose them? Is it training up your team so they embrace every single chance to rebook? Do you need to reclaim your time so you concentrate on planning and executing? Spend this time (even in short bursts) planning, and you’ll gain clarity around the steps you need to take to get you closer to your goal for the new year. 72

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TIP #3: FIND YOUR STARTING POINT.

Now you have a list of things you’re trying to shape into a workable plan. I know – it seems overwhelming. It looks like a mountain of work you don’t have time to climb. And, if you’re anything like me and a legion of other hairdressing professionals, you tend to get lured off track by bright, shiny objects. Re-centre yourself by asking these two questions when you’re prioritising your plan. Will this lead me in a direct step to my goal? Is this urgent, important or nice? Clue: if it’s nice, it’s not a high priority. Nice can wait. What you need to do first are the urgent actions, followed by the important ones. It seems logical, but unless you label them, you’ll more than likely head off in the wrong direction and find yourself in mid-January (again) wishing you’d got your salon ducks in a row months ago.

TIP #4: AUDIT YOUR PLAN.

Now you have a big plan and a fat list to get ticking off. Great! You’re excited about the potential of what’s ahead, but you’d love to get moving fast and see some real traction. Time to evaluate your plan again. This time, run a plan audit, marking each item either: E for Eliminate – it’s not taking you closer to your goal A for Automate – can you automate and systemise this? O for Outsource – can you find a specialist to get it done right and fast? D for Delegate – do you have to hog the ball and do everything? K for Keep Doing – when you’re the only one to be taking the action

You have multiple options to share or streamline your workload. Many hands (and systems) make for light, fast work.

TIP #5: BE ABSOLUTELY ACCOUNTABLE.

How will you stay true to your plan when, in a few months’ time, salon life returns to “normal” with clients flowing steadily and your team firmly on track? It’s so easy to fall into a false sense of security, thinking business is steady-as-shegoes. Just because the crisis is over for now, there’s no reason to drop the ball on your plan. In fact, there’s every reason to keep executing so you experience NO down cycles ever, only amazing highs. The most effective accountability is to share with your team or family that you’re on a mission. Going public about the direction and action you’re taking makes you less likely to quietly quit and slip into the shadows. Giving up is much harder to do when you have to explain it to the significant people around you! And, when you share your journey, you’ll usually find others will support and motivate you along the way. I’d love to bump into you in twelve months’ time and have you tell me you’ve had the best year ever! That you’ve had no lows to challenge you, only extraordinary highs to celebrate. And … that you’ve already got your plan for 2019 well into execution phase. Now wouldn’t that be worth popping bubbles for? For more salon savvy email ZING Coach Tara Sharland tara@zingcoach.com.au or visit www.zingcoach.com.au


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BUSINESS

THE P’S OF BUSINESS PART 5 By Daniel Dickson, Managing Director, DMK Australia & New Zealand

Planning is one of the most forgotten and neglected P’s out of them all. I believe that it is often because “We don’t know what we don’t know” and it is also “Where do I start from and how do I do that”?? This feeling can make a busy owner feel overwhelmed and therefore, we avoid it like the plague. I would encourage you to explore how a small discipline and routine can set you free from feeling out of control when you don’t have a plan and you’re not really in the driver’s seat. You may find that you don’t have a plan for your staff - your greatest assets and biggest investment. You don’t have a marketing plan, or perhaps have not devised a strategy on how to use planning to define your position (a previously subject of P) to set you apart from competition in your area. Or is it that you have not worked forward on a financial model that defines success versus being busy and not making money? I’m the first to say that money is NOT the only defining aspect that measures success to me, however, it does keep the doors open and allows the business to execute some great initiatives and affords the personnel that can deliver a great strategy and business offering to be proud of. Planning can often be over thought and over complicated. I simply ask you to TRY the following. Take yourself into a creative space and grab a glass of your favourite potion to sit and spend 30 minutes with yourself UNINTERUPTED. This is always the problem, whereby we place ourselves (out of habit) in a busy, distracting and non-creative space to make decisions and we do this because we do not prioritise PLANNING. When you know how powerful this 30-minute sessions can be, you will realise that your habit of choosing to be busy and not planning well is actually stopping you from achieving what you set out to do. I have several check points throughout the year where I see as mandatory planning times which set my year up to achieve what I want so I can say – “I did it”. It is an amazing feeling and a very rewarding one when you tick the box that defines what success feels like or how you measure it. My #1 planning session is the 1st January each year where I plan major goals for my business, my family, myself and my wife. Let’s face it, happy wife, happy life. I’m happy to take all the 74

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bashing from husbands out there who may not feel as strongly about this, but it works for me and I liken this to the mantra “those who wire together, fire together”. I involve my children in this and ask them to start thinking of big things this year that they want to achieve and how they can seek assistance to make their goals a reality. Life is all about doing things you love and doing that to the best of your ability. When I am in a planning session, I think back to one of my favourite movie quotes from the children’s movie, Mr. Magorium’s Wonder Emporium. Dustin Hoffman says, “Life is an occasion, rise to it”. In this session, I list the THIS year top things I want to achieve, the next 3 years’ bigger goals and then the 20-year dream goals. We don’t do enough dreaming and visualising. This is where we attach feelings to thoughts like “What if I did….”. If we dream enough and reflect daily on what we have done in our life today, we can definitely shift our lives to choose to do what we love to do. It is all about being accountable for making the choices regularly and checking in on how are we going. After your big goals are set, let’s look back to our 30-minute sessions on a weekly basis as “check in’s” to see how we are tracking. I’d also suggest that you try to keep it to one page and don’t add to the list without ticking off tasks that

are already on the page. Then break the tasks into sections of your life or business life and when it comes to business, you need to cover off the following areas each month – marketing (attracting new clients and retaining existing), promotional schedule (avoid discounts and look at value-added services or bundle packages together – people love a bargain, but do not reduce your value), people plan (would I reemploy all my current staff is the hot question each month?). Your people are your biggest investment and your greatest asset, just make sure that they are. And finally, positioning (am I representing my business in all decisions, point of sale, in messaging, in marketing, in people on what I want to be famous for). You may recall the positioning guidelines from my last article. If you take 30 minutes each week, then can check in on your four business areas I mentioned above - one per month and still have time to review your personal and family goals. Remember in these sessions, keep the notes short, actionoriented with dates and timelines in place, review previous weeks notes and do not allow yourself to fall behind by missing the session. It is very important, so book it in your diary. www.dmkskin.com.au


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Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6  
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 6  

Beauty Biz provides comprehensive information to the Beauty Industry on a regular basis. It is written for today’s salon and spa owners and...