The Essential Business Guide for Salons and Spas
SKIN is a MIRROR
for whatâ€™s happening within
Year 10 Issue 4
Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017 THE OSCARS OF THE AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY
Gala Awards Night Hyatt Regency, 161 Sussex St. Sydney Overlooking Darling harbour
Sunday 27th August 2017
7.00pm to 11.30pm
Dress Code - Black Tie/Evening Wear
TICKETS: SINGLE $250 TABLE OF TEN $2200 (LIMITED NUMBER OF TABLES OF 11 AND 12 ALSO AVAILABLE) TICKET INCLUDES ARRIVAL CANAPÉS, 3 COURSE A LA CARTE DINNER, DRINKS (BEER, WINE, SOFT DRINKS), ENTERTAINMENT, DANCING AND MORE…
DJ Mat Stokes String Sirens and Slique
Official Rooftop After Party at Zephyr! 11.30pm to
B E A U T Y
ON THE COVER 08 The Skin is a Mirror for What’s Happening Within - Regul8
REGULARS 06 Editors Letter 10-12 Industry News 60 Makeup Shop 66-68 Beauty Shop
FEATURE 14 The Ultraceuticals Difference 16 Skin Renewal System with Mayerling
DERMAL 18 Phytochromatic Complex, A New and Naturally Derived PlantBased Ingredient Technology 20 The Most Sensitive Organ By Pheobe Song 22 Rosacea Examined By Dr Priya Patel
MEDI & AESTHETICS 26 Perspective on Preservative Parabens in Cosmetics By Dr. Andrew R. Christie 28 Understanding Soft Thread Lifting By Dr. Sarah Tonks 30 Methods of Micro By Sara Whithorn 32 A Major Upgrade for Hair Removal and Skin Rejuvenation
BEAUTY 56 The Art of a Good Brow By Mandy Jeffery
PROFILE 34 A Little Bit of Magic
58 A Smooth Flawless Look
36 Cosmetic Professional Development Institute – A Haven of Training
62 Adam & Eve Wax evolves to Jax Wax Australia
38 Beauty Trends for a Competitive Edge By Belinda Craigie 40 ASAPS Wrap By April Jones
TANNING 64 How does the skin’s PH Affect a Spray Tan?
BLOG SPOT 70 Nail It By Caroline Morgan 72 The Movie that is your life By Julie Cross
BUSINESS 74 Employment Relations for the Beauty Industry By Leanne Rogers 76 11 Ways Business Owners Could Get Better Financial Advice By Sue Hirst 78 Dispel Myths ‘Building A Profitable Business’ By Narelle Lancaster 80 Five Sure-Fire Steps to beat your Fret-About-Debt Mindset By Marie Drever 82 The P’s of Business Part 3 By Daniel Dickson
42 Lash Bash Gold Coast
2017 ABIA MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALISTS 44 ABIA & Laud Proudly Present 2017 ABIA Make Up Artist of the Year 45 Alana Mevissen 46 Bernice Mansfield 47 Christina Rodio 48 Isabelle De Vries 49 Kristin Martin 50 Liz Sharp 51 Nicole Bratis 52 Sheri Vegas 53 Valentina Pintus 54 Vikki Aldridge
Warm Up Your Brows This Winter Aside from hair colour, brows are essential to complete any look. With Brow Styling by Refectocil your winter style can be perfected easily. Shape the brows with the Brow Styling Strips and tint with a mix of Chestnut and Natural Brown for a warm winter look!
Ask for Refectocil at all leading suppliers Sole Importer Lee Fran Beauty Imports Pty Ltd
Beauty Biz PUBLISHER
Linda Woodhead email@example.com
Editors Editors Note
April Jones firstname.lastname@example.org
ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara email@example.com
Kellie Woodhead firstname.lastname@example.org
Jess Richmond email@example.com
Pheobe Song Dr Priya Patel Dr. Andrew R. Christie Dr. Sarah Tonks Sara Whithorn Belinda Craigie Mandy Jeffery Caroline Morgan Julie Cross Leanne Rogers Sue Hirst Narelle Lancaster Marie Drever Daniel Dickson
PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 firstname.lastname@example.org www.mochapublishing.com.au
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HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz & Barber Shop Beauty Biz is published six times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Beauty Biz does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Beauty Biz are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2017 mocha publishing All rights reserved.
Welcome to the middle of the year - and how did that happen??! It’s been a very exciting month talking with both our readers, contributors and advertisers - there is so much knowledge and passion out there that I am constantly blown away by what a fantastic industry we all get to be part of. This is our last issue before the coveted ABIA’s and we are very much looking forward to an evening of celebration with all of our finalists. The quality and consistency has been outstanding over the last few years and each season this seems to increase as the awards grow bigger and bigger. Don’t forget to book your seats and tables for the gala night which is on evening of the last day of Beauty Expo as tickets are selling fast: There are some new categories and sponsors this year (who we are ever grateful to) and you can find more details of dates and how to book in this issue. Business is a big focus in this months issue and we are lucky enough to have some fantastic insights from Leanne Rogers from Cooee, Marie Driver from Zing Coaching and Narelle Lancaster who are all new contributors to the magazine - welcome! We also have some of our regular contributors including the ever inspiring Julie Cross to brighten our day, and Dr Andrew Christie who continues to educate and inspire worldwide. The level of dermal and paramedical courses, education and opportunities available has risen dramatically throughout the last year and I believe the best is yet to come with more and more of our beauty therapists re training to become dermal therapists, laser technicians, cosmetic tattooists. I am delighted to feature CPD who are making huge inroads into nurse and paramedical education and assisting that next step from dermal therapist to nurse that many of the industry are taking the leap into. I am sure that you enjoy reading some of the more diverse and interesting articles we showcase and I always am looking for an ‘aha!’ moment when selecting the best contributors. I would love to hear your feedback, but also if there is a writer in you and there is a topic close to your heart, be it business, dermal or aesthetics please get in touch. We are surrounded by a plethora of experience in our industry and the therapists, owners and managers in our salons are the ones at ‘base camp’, learning, seeing and developing our businesses every day. I look forward to seeing some of you at the next couple of Expo’s and the upcoming ABIA’s and please do remember that if you have something educational, dermal, business or just plain fantastic to share with the world via our magazine we would love to hear about it!
April April Jones Editor
The NON NEGOTIABLES when skin needling
FOR MORE INFORMATION visit DermapenWorld.com for your authorised distributor in your country or call +61 2 98893636. DP Dermaceuticals may also be used as homecare by the patient. In addition to active meso-glides, the range also features a cleanser, exfoliant, moisturiser, mask and Cover Recover camouflage for pre and post-op maintenance. Specific protocol packs serve as non negotiables to ensure the best results when combined with Dermapen skin needling procedures.
GOOD HEALTH BEGINS IN THE GUT
The SKIN is a MIRROR
for what’s happening within
Over the past few years, the topic of digestive health has gone mainstream, with both consumers and therapists being more aware of its important function and power. It’s an exciting step in the right direction, as digestive health really is incredibly important for overall health and wellbeing. We sit down with Debbie Dickson, Founder & Formulation of Regul8™ and talk about digestive health and her six-year journey that became the Regul8™ range. Hipprocrates said it best over 2,000 years ago that good health begins in the gut, and now there is increasing research to support how important digestive health is to our overall wellbeing. Healthy gut flora optimises our digestive system providing a variety of functions including; nutrient absorption and assimilation of vitamins and minerals, hormonal signalling and breaking down and rebuilding hormones, helping to prevent colds, flus, yeast infections and decreasing inflammation. Many people do not realise that up to 70% of the body’s immune system is produced in your digestive system and it is often referred to as the body’s second brain. Also, important hormones
like serotonin (your feel-good hormone) and melatonin (your sleep hormone) are generated in the digestive system that all have a knockon influence on the rest of the body when they become imbalanced.
WHAT FACTORS CAN CONTRIBUTE TO IMPAIRED GUT FUNCTION?
When you consider that the digestive system is where vitamins, nutrients and minerals are all absorbed; factors such as stress, lack of sleep, antibiotics, the contraceptive pill, non-steroidal, anti-inflammatory drug, illness, ageing and poor diet choices can all often lead to an imbalance of the bacteria in your digestive tract. Also, the mucosal lining in the digestive system is our front line of defence and if this is in poor condition, it follows that we will be in poor health. The
friendly bacteria present in our digestive system completely determine an individual’s immunity.
WHAT ARE SOME SIGNS OF POOR DIGESTIVE FUNCTION? • Bloating • Constipation • Diarrhoea • Flatulence • Acne • Eczema • Rosacea • Skin rashes • Dull skin • Bruising • Weight gain • Leaky Gut Syndrome • Irritable Bowel Syndrome
If the garden (your gastrointestinal system) becomes overgrown with weeds, snails, and other unbeneficial bugs (bad bacteria) – it will not matter what seeds, flowers, or veggies, are planted (probiotic), they simply will not grow, as the weeds (bad bacteria), rob them of the nutrients essential to their survival. Regul8™ is a three-step program to weed, seed and feed your digestive system through addressing intestinal overgrowth and repair the linings of the digestive tract to generate the appropriate environment for the good bacteria to flourish. CAN STRESS IMPACT YOUR DIGESTIVE SYSTEM?
Yes, it can! The gut affects the brain and the brain affects the gut. Digestion is controlled by the enteric nervous system, a system composed of hundreds of millions of nerves that communicate with the central nervous system. When stress activates the “flight or fight” response in the central nervous system, digestion can literally shut down as the central nervous system reduces blood flow to the digestive system, blood is shunted away from the midsection, going to the arms, legs, and head for quick thinking, fighting, or fleeing, this affects the contractions of the digestive muscles, and decreases secretions needed for digestion. Stress can cause inflammation of the gastrointestinal system, and make people more susceptible to infection. When exposed to stress results in alterations of your brain-gut connection, which can contribute to numerous gastrointestinal disorders including irritable bowel syndrome and leaky gut syndrome.
EVERYONE HAS HEARD OF A PROBIOTIC, BUT WHAT IS A PREBIOTIC?
A prebiotic should increase the number and/or activity of lactic acid bacteria. The importance of the Bifidobacterium and the lactic acid bacteria is that these groups of bacteria have several beneficial effects on the body, especially in terms of improving digestion (including enhancing mineral absorption) and the effectiveness and intrinsic strength of the immune system. In a nutshell, they help create the perfect environment for fussy probiota to flourish.
WHY DID YOU FORMULATE THE REGUL8™ DIGESTIVE TUNE-UP AND HOW DOES IT WORK?
When studying Chinese Herbal Medicine, I realised how important the digestive system was especially in skin conditions, I also could never understand why we are told to just take a probiotic when most people have bacterial overload in the gut and a dysfunctional environment. Probiotics or the good bacteria are very fussy about the environment they live in. The best way to visualise what I have created is to think of your digestive system as a garden and if it is overgrown with weeds and unbeneficial bugs – it will not matter what seeds, flowers or veggies are planted, they simply will not grow. Regul8 is a three-step program to weed, seed and feed your digestive system
WHAT MAKES THE REGUL8™ DIGESTIVE TUNE-UP UNIQUE?
It is Australian made, gluten free, does not require refrigeration and the probiotic element is microencapsulated, which means that the probiotics are each covered with small a microscopic coating that protects them from being effected by the passage through the gastrointestinal tract – delivering them 100% alive to the target area of the lower intestine. This is a unique patented technology that has never been used in Australia before.
HOW LONG DOES THE REGUL8™ DIGESTIVE TUNE-UP GO FOR?
The Digestive Tune-Up is a program where you take the 3 capsules daily of; CLEANSE + RESTORE + MAINTAIN for the duration of your prescribed course. A basic program will go for 20 days, and for those who have prolonged gut issues anywhere from 40-90 days. Our range is available from select skin revision clinics and health/wellness practitioners who will be able to guide you with how long you will need to do the program for. Once completed, all you need to do it top up your good bacteria with MAINTAIN.
THE REGUL8™ DIGESTIVE TUNE-UP IS A HERBAL-BASED THREE-STEP PROCESS;
CLEANSE Assists with bacterial, fungal overloads and parasites whilst promoting improved digestion. RESTORE Repairs and restores the gastrointestinal tract. Improves blood supply to the intestinal lining, supports liver, kidney and gallbladder function and restores the optimal environment for the good bacterial to flourish. MAINTAIN Delivers 100% alive probiota to the target site where they can flourish and be most effective.
Scientific evidence shows that nourishing gut flora with the friendly bacteria from fermented foods or probiotics is extremely important for proper brain function, including psychological well-being and mood control.
The Regul8™ range includes a stress relief formulation: RELAX. Based on traditional herbal medicine to relieve symptoms associated with stress. For more information about Regul8 and your nearest stockist visit regul8.com.au
AUSTL 283383 Use only as directed. Always read the label. If symptoms persist consult your healthcare practitioner.
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
INDUSTRY NEWS INDUSTR CELEBRATING COSMETIC COLLECTIVE’S FIRST BIRTHDAY.
spas with an excellent product to help drive their success further”. Quinn has played a key part in Kitomba’s extraordinary growth into a full business management solution which now has thousands of customers across New Zealand, Australia and the UK. He has worked across every area of the Kitomba business, giving him a thorough understanding of the company and a strong appreciation of its customers. Quinn is focused on building on Kitomba’s strong success. “I’m pleased to be leading such a capable and dedicated team at Kitomba. I look forward to using our industry knowledge and technology leadership to take Kitomba to the next level and continue to improve the life of our customers.”
AMY JEAN INTRODUCES MIST BROWS TO THE MENU A very special night recently highlighted a successful year for clinic Cosmetic Collective combined with a stirring launch for Bell’s new line, Satori Cosmetics. The mouth-watering canapés and champagne cocktails provided by The Blockhouse were a hit among guests. Director, Bell says, “It’s been a rewarding year with many thanks to my beautiful clients. The team and I are looking forward to settling into the new clinic and we’re enthusiastic about the year to come”. Cosmetic Collective is a results driven clinic, which offers an array of services under one extremely pretty roof.
LAGLAM HOSTS THE BIGGEST MORNING TEA
Vegan-friendly and ideal for sensitive skin. Mist Brows is an airbrushing technique that deposits a fine mist of colour along the brow line, mimicking the beauty trend of ombre brows applied with makeup. Colour is applied more heavily throughout the base, arch and tails of the brows, before subtly fading out at the start point. “The options are endless with this treatment as we mix the pigments to suit the individual and can use several different pigments to create a true ombre effect,” says Amy Jean. “It also gives brow artists the option of adding a few fine strokes at the start of the brow, which is the most natural way to create a fuller brow.”
AISC ENCOURAGES OTHER INDUSTRIES TO STEP UP AND OFFER INTERNSHIPS
Why was my Biggest morning tea in the afternoon? Because wine in the afternoon is so much more fun than tea in the morning! LaGlam raised $760 for the cancer council from this makeup look ‘n’ learn event! Science is advancing and hopefully one day there will be a cure. Hopefully the money that LaGlam Minerals has raised can help just that little bit more. Thank you also to other local companies for helping out with prizes etc, The Tavern Shell Cove, Coles, Woolworths, Tremayne/Jamberoo Action Park and Dan Murphys.
KITOMBA APPOINTS NEW CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Kitomba has appointed co-founder Al Quinn as the company’s new Chief Executive Officer. Quinn succeeds founding CEO Tom Murphy who has departed after 15 years at the helm of Kitomba. During that time Kitomba has become a leading software company in the hair and beauty industry with an exciting future focused on continued local and international growth. Murphy says “I’m really proud of what we’ve built with Kitomba and feel confident I’m passing it to safe hands that will continue to provide salons and
Chair of the Australian Industry and Skills Committee, John Pollaers, today congratulated the Australian Retailers Association for working with the Australian Government to offer 10,000 internships to young Australians on welfare payments. “This is an example of industry taking the lead and stepping up to train and develop staff to ensure it has the skilled workforce it needs,” Prof Pollaers said. “I encourage other industry and professional organisations to follow the lead of the Australian Retailers Association and consider the Government’s PaTH program to help build their workforce.” Prof Pollaers said both employers and interns using the PaTH program should look to the vocational education and training (VET) system to further support their training. “Building on an internship with additional nationally recognised training will help employees gain the skills and competencies they need to excel,” he said. “For instance, the Certificate II in retail services ensures employees have skills in using communication in the workplace, responding to workplace problems, engaging customers and receiving and handling retail stock.” Prof Pollaers said the Australian Industry and Skills Committee was working closely with industry to make sure that employers of all sizes have the skills they need – now and in the future, through flexible and relevant training. “The new industry-led arrangements for vocational education and training are delivering a more flexible national training system – one that is responsive to the needs of industry, and which is actively partnering with industry. VET is critical to ensuring that Australia is innovative, productive and globally competitive,” he said.
RY NEWS INDUSTRY NEWS ENDOTA CONTINUES TO EXPAND
AND THE YOUNGBLOOD WINNER IS…. To launch the incredible re-branding of Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics and their new direction which embraces the Effortless California Beauty lifestyle, Professional Beauty Solutions gave salon owners, employees and therapists a chance to WIN a $1500 holiday!
Endota spa, Australia’s leading day spa network, continues to expand and innovate the delivery of wellness treatments with its groundbreaking new retail design through new spa Norwood, South Australia. For the first time, the new retail design, separate to the dabble bar, also includes an area where busy customers can experience express treatments and skin consultations. This express treatment space will offer services and treatments: • BT analyser which analyses skin hydration levels and assists with treatment and skincare recommendations • Skin scanner which uses UV light to assess skin damage such as pigmentation, dehydration and ageing • Jade rollers used in mini-facials to awaken the complexion, blood circulation, skin tone and elasticity of the skin • Express LED mask treatment to help improve disposition, boost collagen production and treat acne • Hand, head or shoulder massage
The biggest and most exciting prize they had ever given away, this was an incredible opportunity for salon partners to join in on an effort that not only pushed the beautiful new packaging and image for their mineral makeup brand, Youngblood, but gave them a chance to take a welldeserved holiday after all the hard work and time they put into being dedicated beauty therapists to their loyal clients. The rules were simple, the beauty therapist who sold the most limited-edition Youngblood Complexion Perfection Foundation Kits in their salon over a 3-month period would take home the grand prize which was a $1500 Flight Centre Voucher. This week, Queensland Business Development Manager Vanessa Pickering made a surprise visit to Brazilian Beauty Salon in Creek Street to share the amazing news with beauty therapist Hazel Neilon who was the lucky prize winner!! Congratulations once again to Hazel Neilon. Your hard work and determination successfully paid off! We hope you have an amazing holiday.
CELEBRATING 75 YEARS OF REFECTOCIL
THE BIG FREEZE IS HITTING THE NATION AND WE’RE NOT TALKING ABOUT WINTER
Leading medi-aesthetic company Australian Skin Clinics has recently released some ‘cool’ technology with the new CryoDefine Fat Freezing treatment hitting selected clinics across the country just in time for winter. CryoDefine Fat Freezing is a non-invasive technology that uses controlled cooling to target fat cells while normal body tissues remain unaffected. Australian Skin Clinics National Training Manager, Darlene O’Gara, believes this treatment will transform clinic offerings and provide clients with a solution to their winter slump. “The CryoDefine Fat Freezing technology concentrates on stubborn fat cells and is a much safer alternative to liposuction meaning, alongside exercise and a good diet, problem areas can be reduced without going under the knife,” Miss O’Gara said. “Clients can expect to see visible results from CryoDefine treatments within twelve weeks, with progressive results on-going after only two to three treatments per area.”
To celebrate this grand occasion, an AMAZING Conference was held in Salzburg, Austria, over 3 days in June 2017. The conference was attended by delegates representing over 65 countries around the world and Lee and Franchot Blackett, accompanied by Bret Andrews from Lee Fran Beauty Imports, sole importer of RefectoCil for Australia and New Zealand, attended the event. Stay tuned for lots of NEW information and exciting news to follow this year. A Gala Evening was held on the last evening at “Hangar 7”, a spectacular event to celebrate this momentous milestone. CONGRATULATIONS REFECTOCIL!
INDUSTRY NEWS INDUSTR GOING BEYOND
Beyond Bronze has been developed by a former sun worshiper, whose goal is to help others achieve the perfect tan without the dangerous risks of the sun. After more than 12 years of industry experience, thousands of conversations with both salons and clients about their tanning needs, and importantly the passion and drive to bring these attributes together, Beyond Bronze is a spray tan that meets the genuine needs of you and your clients. www.beyondbronze.com.au
COMFORTEL’S NEW BEAUTY MASTERCLASSES SERIES PRESENTS INTERACTIVE WORKSHOPS
Are you or your staff in need of updating your knowledge or learning about the equipment in your salon? Maybe you just need a re-fresher on some of the treatments you learnt at school? The Comfortel Masterclass series focuses on educating beauty therapists and business owners, on the most sought after beauty treatments available. Held in Comfortel’s training room at their head office in Clayton South, Victoria, each class is designed to give you and your staff a refresher course on equipment and techniques you can offer in your salon. Starting in August, and operating every second Monday, select from a range of classes presented by Comfortel’s experienced beauty trainer Mishelle Pemba to elevate your skills and expand your knowledge. Mishelle will guide you through the theory behind the treatments and assist you to re-visit the correct application techniques in a hands-on practical session. Take away a step-by-step protocol for each treatment, to ensure your confidence in using the machines and techniques back in your own salon. Created for every level of skill you can learn from the experts in a short, informal and interactive session. MasterClass Series include: • Advanced Facials using Electrical equipment Do you have electrical facial equipment such as Galvanic, High Frequency or Ultrasonic in your Salon, but feel unsure how to use it? Take this class to ensure your confidence in understanding what these machines do, and how to use them. • Microdermabrasion Compare the different Microdermabrasion technologies that are available today, and understand how and why they work so well. Get a hands-on training session so that you can learn the correct technique, try it out for yourself and make an informed decision on what to offer at your salon. • Acne Treatments Re-visit the whole topic of acne and sort the facts from the fiction. Gain an understanding of the development of acne, discover the most effective treatments, and how and why they work in our Acne Masterclass. • Skin Analysis & Successful Skin Treatments Learn effective Consultation and skin analysis techniques, and how to create an effective Treatment Plan which will help to increase your bookings for services and also retail sales.
• Hygienic Spa Pedicures Are you still performing your Pedicure services the old-fashioned way – with your client sitting on a chair or bed with their feet soaking in a tub? Come and learn how to perform luxurious Spa Pedicure services in the newest and most hygienic Pedi Spa chairs available. • Hydra-Dermabrasion Learn about the latest type of Microdermabrasion treatment, HydraDermabrasion. Not only is it an abrasive-free treatment to exfoliate the skin, but also infuses liquid skincare serums at the same time. The 3-step facial treatment is easy to perform, and leaves the skin immediately smoother, refreshed and re-hydrated. Dates for these classes are available to book online at www.comfortel.com.au. Limited spots are available per session. Located at Comfortel Head office, in Clayton South Victoria. Only $49.50 per person. Each Masterclass starts 9:30 and finishes at 12:30pm with morning tea provided.
BOOSTING TRAINERS’ SKILLS TO IMPROVE THE QUALITY OF VET The quality of training delivered in the vocational education and training system is set to be boosted, following implementation of recommendations by the Australian Industry and Skills Committee to improve training requirements for trainers and assessors. Chair of the AISC, John Pollaers, today welcomed the announcement by the Australian Government of new credential requirements for VET trainers and assessors, which were recommended by the AISC when the updated Training and Education training package was released in April 2016. “The quality of training received by VET students is of major importance for employers – employers need to be assured that their workforce is well-trained and has the necessary skills,” Prof Pollaers said. “These changes will ensure that the people training and assessing VET students have the right skills and knowledge to design and develop assessment tools, as well as crucial adult language, literacy and numeracy skills.” The changes relate to the core competencies of the Certificate IV in Training and Assessment, which practitioners need to hold to teach in the VET system. Practitioners will need to meet these new credential requirements by April 2019. The Education Industry Reference Committee is scheduled to do a full review of the Training and Education training package in 2018-19.
NEW QUEENSLAND BUSINESS SET TO BRING THE AUSTRALIAN DAY SPA COMMUNITY TOGETHER. Health Spa Club, a unique online initiative dedicated to the Australian health and wellness industry has announced the official launch of their new website. Health Spa Club offers the general public a convenient way to find day spas and wellness services in their local area. Listed businesses are able to reach a wide audience of targeted potential clients. Health Spa Club founder Jodie Kilian said “Our two main priorities, are to provide a convenient way for day spa lovers to find day spas throughout Australia and to enable day spas the opportunity to be found. Particularly day spas owners with one or two businesses, where they might not have a franchisor behind them”. Jodie Kilian and business partner Jodie Lambert met while working together a few years ago. Both ambitious and passionate about the day spa industry and have a long list of ideas they are looking to introduce. www.healthspaclub.com.au
YES! RY NEWS They can look 10 years younger with the DeAgeing Facial
Smart Salon owners are introducing the Mayerling DeAgeing Facial to their existing clients and reaping $10,000â€™s in additional profit. No needles. No Machines. No Rollers. Just your Professional skill backed up by Mayerling For a no obligation demonstration call us on: 02 9909 0935 or email: email@example.com
Dr. Heber says, “Cosmetic medicine is an extremely dynamic field and non-surgical skincare innovations & paramedical treatments are evolving to overtake the need for evasive surgery. I have an intense interest in cosmeceuticals, nonsurgical skin treatments and enhancement of the results they produce.” Not all skincare companies are created equal. Of course, Ultraceuticals has cutting edge medically supervised inhouse laboratories and clinical testing to prove that its products provide the best possible results before they’re marketed. Along with this goes Ultraceuticals’ blended learning system: its award winning online training system and its face to face workshops to make sure clinic staff have a full understanding of skin conditions, the products and how the products should be prescribed. Together with Ultraceuticals field tested Ultra Consult consultation process, clinics can’t but help give their clients the best possible results and keep them coming back for more. Dr Geoffrey Heber Founder & Director Ultraceuticals MBBS(Hons)(NSW), MBA(Syd), Fellow Cosmetic Physicians College of Australia
When today’s consumers are bombarded by an array of skincare marketing claims, one skincare brand is striving to deliver on its promise – to develop products based on scientific evidence with claims you can trust. It all began in 1988 when Dr Geoffrey opened Heber Davis Clinic, a non-surgical cosmetic medicine practice. It was there that he recognised the need for high potency, high performance take-home products so that patients could maintain the discernible results they were getting in the clinic. Determined to improve upon anything available in the market,
in 1998 Dr Heber formed a team of Australian and international formulators charged with creating potent, effective products under the Ultraceuticals label. The Ultraceuticals cosmeceutical skincare line was created specifically to complement professional skin treatments and to enhance results in between treatments. The Ultraceuticals range incorporates high levels of superior and effective ingredients in advanced delivery systems to provide active pharmaceutical– grade skincare without needing a prescription. Due to the potency of these formulations the Ultraceuticals range is only available in selected medi-spas, clinics after thorough skin consultation.
WHY IS ULTRACEUTICALS SKINCARE CLASSIFIED AS A COSMECEUTICAL SKINCARE?
True cosmeceutical skincare should only be recommended by professionally trained dermal technicians and skin experts as it contains high levels of potent active ingredients in advanced delivery formulations. Most importantly, as products can’t be fully trusted to work as expected, Ultraceuticals conducts clinical testing of all its treatment products to prove efficacy, unlike many companies, which rely solely on ingredient suppliers’ marketing claims. For example, in a clinical
it contains high levels of potent active our customers and society with our ongoing ingredients in advanced delivery formulations. quest for product excellence. Our products Most importantly, as products can’t be fully are not tested on animals and our ingredients study improvement in the visible appearance of is very prevalent, with Australia following close trusted toofwork as expected, Ultraceuticals are obtained pigmentation Ultraceuticals Brightening Serum behind. Entirely Australian made and from owned,non-genetically modified was rated equal to that of a prescription only Ultraceuticals contains high levels of active sustainable resources. conducts clinical testing of all its treatment and environmentally hydroquinone brightening cream. Ultraceuticals ingredients in tested formulations to provide the products to prove eﬃcacy, unlike many Ultraceuticals products do not contain is ideally prescribed as part of the complete skin most effective products available without the We are dedicated to creating potent, effective companies which rely solely on ingredient propylene glycol, treatment program. need of a prescription.parabens, The range of professionalproducts SLES, under SLS, the palm Ultraceuticals label. grade products are at the forefront of innovation suppliers’ marketing claims. For example, in and in-clinic oil or treatments, syntheticaddress dyes orUltraceuticals fragrances. major skin concerns such as premature skin DOES EFFECTIVE SKINCARE and use only the latest available ingredients a clinical study improvement in the visible ageing and hyperpigmentation that are a result and technologies to consistently release new MEAN THAT YOU of photodamage. appearance of pigmentation of Ultraceuticals products and improve existing ones. Ultraceuticals claims to provide discernaINCORPORATE HARSH Brightening Serum was rated equal Sun to that of ble results. How do you provide proof? CHEMICALS? Protection is at the forefront of Ultraceuticals With a combination of sophisticated, patented Definitely not. All Ultraceuticals products have brightening research and development with a comprehensive a prescription only hydroquinone delivery systems and potent, proven anti-ageing been developed in line with our Ingredient work closely internal R &A,D Team range of products for Ievery lifestyle need.with ourstars like Vitamin Vitamin C and Alpha Hydroxy cream. Ultraceuticals is ideally prescribed as Policy. Our Ingredient Policy ensures our new Acids (AHAs), Formulation each product is formulated comprising a Research Chemist, product development balances the needs of our part of the complete skin treatment program. ULTRACEUTICALS CLAIMS safety and effectiveness, so customers and society with our ongoing quest for Chemists and Clinical with Trialmaximum Coordinator to you get results which you can actually see. By TO PROVIDE DISCERNABLE product excellence. Our products are not tested ensure the products delivers visible results. collaborating with renowned universities and RESULTS. HOW DO YOU on animals ingredients are obtained from that Doesand eﬀour ective skincare mean you leading researchers, Ultraceuticals are leaders We do not develop our products based on non-genetically modified and environmentally PROVIDE PROOF? incorporate harsh chemicals? in the global cosmeceutical industry, crafting a sustainable resources. Ultraceuticals products I work closely with what our internal R & D Team suppliers tell us. We the ingredients simple regimen of products which deliver fastdo not contain parabens, propylene glycol, SLES, comprising a Research Chemist, Formulation acting and discernible Defi nitely not. All Ultraceuticals products have want to prove that an ingredient worksresults in theto reveal clear, SLS, palm oil or synthetic dyes or fragrances. Chemists and Clinical Trial Coordinator to firm, glowing, beautiful skin. ensure the products delivers visible results. We been developed in line with our Ingredient formula. Therefore all our treatment products not develop our products based on what the HOW ULTRACEUTICALS find out more test aboutto Ultraceuticals go to undergo a rigorous 3 To month panel Policy.ISOur Ingredient Policy ensuresdo our new ingredients suppliers tell us. We want to prove UNIQUE TO AUSTRALIA? www.ultraceuticals.com.au or call ensure product claims1800 are355 substantiated. product development balances the that needs of an ingredient works in the formula. Therefore The Australian climate is one of the harshest and 890 most diverse climates in the world. New Zealand all our treatment products undergo a rigorous 3 month panel test to ensure product claims are has incidence of skin cancer and To the findhighest out more about Ultraceuticals go to www.ultraceuticals.com.au, substantiated. premature skin ageing, as a result photodamage
or call 1800 355 890.
ONE PRODUCT CAN’T DO IT ALL
We combine the right balance of scientifically proven products, expert advice and professional skin treatments to deliver truly genuine results.
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
Skin Renewal System
Dr Lawrence Ho (now retired) was a leading cosmetic surgeon based in Macquarie Street, Sydney. Since 1993, he worked with patients who were undergoing peels and laser skin resurfacing. The research and personal passion for skin rejuvenation, led Dr Ho to creating his unique brand, Mayerling Skin Renewal System™.
Mayerling Skincare Managing Director, Tony Hasham It soon became apparent that the Skin Renewal System™ was effective in combating pigmentation from ageing, sun damage, pregnancy and the contraceptive pill, as well as improving the appearance of scarring, enlarged pores and wrinkles. It also gave dull, lifeless skin a refreshingly vibrant appearance and worked on most skin types. Dr Ho’s treatment system is based on the premise that for the skin’s texture to be improved, it must be resurfaced, the old cells need to be removed and replaced with new, young, unblemished skin cells, regenerating from the deep layers of the dermis. Skin Renewal System harnesses a combination of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Bearberry Extract, Retinyl Palmitate and Antioxidant Vitamins in varying combinations and concentrations. These Mayerling home treatments provide the ideal skin priming and after care program, to be used in conjunction with the Mayerling Salon Nanopeel treatments. The active ingredients of Skin Renewal System™ work together in a “stackable” regime of cleansers, day, night, eye creams and serums. These act synergistically to produce a smoother, clearer, lighter, more vibrant and even skin tone. 16
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The treatments use the latest in delivery system technology, for speedy, accurate and high local concentration, where required. The carrier base has been finely-tuned to penetrate the skin, making them effective on almost all skin types.
by a Multinational Company called Clairol. In the early 2000’s we ventured into the Beauty industry through the acquisition of The Beauty Warehouse, the leading wholesaler of Beauty Products in Australia.
Dr Lawrence Ho has received numerous accolades and awards, and was nominated a “Leading Scientist of the World 2005” for the efforts made in the arena of Innovations in Plastic Aesthetic Surgery by the International Biographical Centre in Cambridge, England.
“Our Mission is to recruit, train, inspire and support professional partners who are dedicated to the rejuvenation of skin and assist them in the pursuit of their goals.”
With a long and well-respected history in the hair and beauty industry, we spoke to Tony Hasham, MD of Maylerling Skincare about Skin Renewal and why Australian Beauty salons should be partnering with this innovative brand.
HOW DID YOU FIRST BECOME INVOLVED IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?
I have always been passionate about the Hair and Beauty industries because of the wonderful people who devote their lives to it. I started in the eighties manufacturing haircare products for Salons and built up the largest Australian owned hair cosmetic manufacturing company in Australia. We introduced iconic brands such as Final Net Hairspray and Joy Haircare. Like many Aussie businesses, we were bought out
HOW DID YOU FIRST GET INVOLVED WITH MAYERLING AND WHAT DREW YOU TO THE BRAND?
Dr. Lawrence Ho wanted to retire so he approached us at the Beauty Warehouse to see if we wanted to acquire Mayerling. After an extensive review, I was so impressed with the Mayerling Skin Renewal System and the high regard Salon Owners had for it, I decided to buy it from Dr. Ho. We established a completely separate entity to market the product exclusively to Professional Salons in Australia and internationally – Mayerling Skincare.
WHAT DO YOU SEE AS THE MAIN POINT OF DIFFERENCE IN AN INDUSTRY WITH MANY SKINCARE BRANDS?
Mayerling is unique in that it was developed in Australia by a leading Plastic Surgeon who tested the products on his own patients. In this way, he was able to engineer a small, highly active group of Cosmeceuticals that are easy to use and have an outstanding degree of effectiveness and success. Coupled with this is the “Drs. Peels”, G20 and S20 Nanopeels that deliver amazing results, even after the first peel. The products are manufactured in GMP (good manufacturing practice) facilities that have been approved by the TGA.
CAN YOU EXPLAIN A LITTLE ABOUT THE DE-AGEING FACIAL AND HOW THIS WORKS?
The DeAgeing Facial is a powerful tool that Salons can use to provide predictable and reliable results for their clients. By combining a series of peels (utilisiong Dr. Ho’s unique method) and a selection of Mayerling take home treatments, salon clients experience a dramatic improvement in skin texture, colour and tone. Clients look years younger. It allows Aestheticians to practice their craft - No needles. No Machines. No Rollers. Just their professional Skill backed up by Mayerling
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON ONLINE SELLING?
Our policy at Mayerling is that we make the Take Home Treatments available on line at the full RR price and do not undertake any promotion of the website to the general public. As we are a small but rapidly growing company we believe we need to make Mayerling available to those clients who have shifted location and do not have a Mayerling salon nearby. It is purely a service gesture to ensure that clients are able to access the product easily and prevent transition to other products.
WHAT TRAINING AND EDUCATION BACK UP TO YOU OFFER YOUR PARTNER SALONS?
Our Mission is to recruit, train, inspire and support professional partners who are dedicated to the rejuvenation of skin and assist them in the pursuit of their goals. To that end we ensure that all new and existing partners receive ongoing and comprehensive training in product knowledge, use and sales. We also endeavour to provide appropriate, useful marketing and promotional material for in salon and on line use. For further information please visit www.mayerlingskincare.com Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
A NEW AND NATURALLY DERIVED PLANT-BASED INGREDIENT TECHNOLOGY
An innovative and new plant-based ingredient technology, is Phytochromatic Complex. Clinically proven to provide a number of important skin health benefits, this naturally derived complex works as an antioxidant and skin-calming agent, has the ability to even skin tone, provide skin matrix support and is ideal for problem skin. The Phytochromatic Complex is a liposomal complex of bound copper chlorophyllin. Originating from a molecule necessary to sustain plant life and known for its healing properties in humans, chlorophyllin is bound with copper, an essential element for maintaining optimal skin health, with proven healing, calming and purifying properties. The joining of these elements within a unique liposomal delivery system forms the Phytochromatic Complex, a potent copper 18
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chlorophyllin antioxidant to provide a number of powerful and anti-ageing benefits. Now more than ever before, so much importance is being placed on ensuring that skincare being used by individuals is at an active and cosmeceutical level, while also utilising natural and botanically derived ingredients. Today’s focus is all about results-driven skincare, where science meets nature; it’s all about “green” ingredient technology. The
began as an incidental discovery. It was initially intended to be used as a laser marker to mitigate problem skin. The chlorophyll, being a highly concentrated green colour was intended to be taken up into the sebaceous glands for it to then absorb the laser energy to potentially shut down sebaceous gland activity and to alleviate problematic skin concerns. Although the initial goal of using chlorophyl as a laser marker was not realised, after many years of research, lab development and clinical
evaluation, it was discovered that this unique, botanically derived copper bound chlorophyllin, combined with a liposomal delivery system, was found to be highly effective to calm skin, work as an antioxidant and skin matrix supporting ingredient, as well as alleviate problem skin. The copper-bound chlorophyllin molecules were seen to be absorbing into the sebaceous glands and lipid bilayers of the epidermis. The Phytochromatic Complex was developed by pharmaceutical scientist John McCook, Peter Dorogi (PhD) & David Vasily, a well renowned Dermatologist for his work specialising in the field of laser treatment and therapies. Laboratory development, refinement of product formulations, independent clinical studies, and patient product evaluations by several Dermatology and Aesthetic practices over the course of several years prefaced the launch of the Phytochromatic Complex technology at the 2015 American Academy of Dermatology annual meeting in San Francisco before the Phytochromatic MDâ„˘ Complex became available in Australia and New Zealand in 2016.
Sodium copper chlorophyllin has a long history of use in medicine as a topical wound healing agent, deodorant and colour additive. Only recently has it been used topically for aesthetic purposes. So what are the benefits to using copper topically on the skin? Copper is required within every phase of wound healing and skin maintenance, and performs many complex roles, both directly and indirectly, modulating the function of a variety of growth factors, cytokines, and enzymes to manipulate cellular activity and tissue repair (Borkow et al., 2010; Kornblatt, Nicoletti, & Travaglia, 2016; Li et al., 2015). There are many examples of enzymes within our skin which rely on copper for optimal function. One example - tyrosine hydroxylase - is involved in the vascular control of the microcirculation, essentially having a positive effect on reducing redness within the skin. Lysyl oxidase is another copper dependent enzyme found within collagen and elastin. Responsible for the structural components of the skins extra cellular matrix, it provides collagen and elastin fibres with as much tensile strength
and structural integrity as possible. Superoxide dismutase, more commonly known for its antioxidant abilities, is an enzyme which greatly depends on copper. Our goal is to support this enzyme to in turn effectively break down nasty oxygen molecules in cells, which then ensures the prevention of tissue damage. One of the biggest take home messages is that the copper we are utilising within this technology is in a very stable environment to ensure it remains active and is absorbed into the skin appropriately, due to the protected encapsulated delivery system known as a liposome. The ingredient is able to work as a hyaluronadaise inhibitor. Hyaluronic acid is a key extracellular matrix molecule with a unique capacity to bind and retain water. It maintains structural integrity of the extracellular matrix and acts as an antioxidant, calming, wound healing and barrier function agent. If you would like to learn more about how you can utilise the Phytochrmomatic ingredient contact Advanced Skin Technology on 1800 648 851. Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
SENSITIVE ORGAN By Phoebe Song
Before we get too far in – let’s clarify – we’re talking about skin. The most sensitive organ in your body, a square of skin, just 1cm wide – has about 150 pain receptors, 25 tactile receptors and 2 heat receptors. Our skin defends our entire internal organ system from microscopic attacks and links the physiological worlds within our own bodies.
A European study found that 52% of people think they have sensitive skin. Another 2009 study found that 77% of people claim to have sensitive facial skin. The growing demands of modern living include stress, an unhealthy diet and poor air quality. With the increase of harsh climates and fast paced living becoming the norm for many people, skin sensitivity has become a growing concern, and something that is more frequently seen in the beauty industry. Whilst true “sensitive skin” is experienced only by a very small number of people, “sensitised skin” is experienced by almost everybody. Reactions, or true skin allergies are caused only by contact with specific allergens and usually cause an instant reaction such as redness, itching and swelling. Skin sensitivity is caused by a general 20
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irritability of the nerve endings in the upper layers of the skin, which can be brought on by a combination of different factors. Conditions such as low humidity, exposure to chemicals, the sun or pollution, over exfoliation, medications, sun exposure and even ageing can all cause skin to become sensitised. When skin can no longer manage these daily stresses, it reacts, showing a visible indication that it has been sensitised. It is important to note that just because someone’s skin is not yet showing such a reaction, or an over sensitisation, this does not mean that that person’s skin is not sensitive. The growing trend within the beauty industry is to treat all skin as sensitive, especially because customers generally trust, and expect, their
spas to use safe products and to prioritise their wellbeing. Whilst it is impossible to offer a product that is guaranteed not to cause sensitisation in anyone, using certain products that have been specifically designed to avoid skin irritation on all types of skin can help avoid potential reactions. Many terms such as ‘fragrance free’ or ‘unscented’ sound straightforward, but can be misleading. Current laws still allow some fragrance chemicals to be used in these products, which can cause irritations or a reaction in some users. Manufacturers use ‘marketing’ words and unfortunately there are still no clear, standardised guidelines for what any given term actually means, and the same words on one product might mean a different thing on another.
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By Dr Priya Patel
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory dermatosis, which globally affects 1 to 22% of the worldâ€™s population, with higher percentages seen in western countries.
There are four internationally recognised subtypes: erythematotelangiectatic (ETR), phymatous (PR), papulopustular (PPR) and ocular (OR). These symptoms can be transient or persistent and can progress in severity. Although rosacea is a benign condition, it can cause significant psychosocial distress.
Rosacea predominantly affects western populations and those aged between 30-50 years. Patients often experience flares then quiescent periods. Interestingly, some studies indicate no gender difference, while others illustrate women are predominately affected, with men presenting more with PR or PPR subtypes and increased severity of disease. Several hypotheses exist for rosacea, including dysregulation of the innate and adaptive immunity and the neurovascular system. Additionally, certain bacteria or mites are found in higher concentrations in rosacea patients, for instance: Demodex folliculorum, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Bacillus oleronius, Helicobacter pylori and Chlamydophila pneumoniae; although the exact pathophysiology of these agents in rosacea is unclear. Environmental factors potentially causing and/ or exacerbating rosacea include: a high amine diet e.g. alcohol and cheese, spicy food, hot beverages, exercise or changes in temperature (including menopausal symptoms), ultraviolet (UV) light or emotional distress. Lastly, exogenous stimuli such as, but not limited to, micro-trauma, chemical peels or topical products containing irritants can trigger symptoms. Rosacea commonly affects the central face, although extra-facial manifestations can occur. The four main subtypes are explained; 1. ETR: characterised by persistent flushing, telangiectatic vessels and periocular sparing 2. PPR: includes ongoing erythema with papules and pustules of varying severity 3. PR: has characteristic facies with nasal skin hypertrophy and has four histological subtypes: glandular, fibrous, fibroangiomatous and actinic 4. OR: involves dry eyes, burning, oedema, blepharitis, conjunctivitis, multiple styes and potential corneal damage resulting in sight loss Several treatment options are available with varying degrees of evidence and efficacy. Treatments are largely based on the subtype and symptom severity, but management remains problematic given the unclear pathophysiology. The current options available are discussed below. Lifestyle modifications 22
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Patient education is critical to explain the condition and trigger avoidance. Good hygiene can improve the skin and ocular symptoms for example eye-bathing, lubricating eye-drops and total make-up/fragrance avoidance.7
TOPICAL TREATMENTS Sodium sulfacetamide Sodium sulfacetamide contains an antibiotic combined with sulphur providing keratolytic, antidemodetic and anti-fungal properties. This can be administered via creams, lotions or cleansers. Metronidazole Another established therapy is topical metronidazole. The exact mechanism is also unknown, but it appears to reduce ROS, opposes existing oxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties.Multiple trials have demonstrated its efficacy, at either 0.75% or 1%.Azelaic acid Azelaic acid (AA) is a natural saturated dicarboxylic acid, with antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.One study suggests it also reduces Kallikrein-5 (KLK5) and cathelicidin expression. A Cochrane review, a resource for systematic reviews in health care, of six pooled studies indicated that 7080% of patients underwent complete remission or significant improvement in their symptoms compared to placebo. Further studies have also suggested some superiority to metronidazole gel, but other studies have indicated no statistical difference. Ivermectin Ivermectin is a broad-spectrum anti-parasitic agent, which is used orally as an anti-inflammatory agent and for its ability to decrease Demodex (mites).Topical ivermectin has recently been approved for moderate-severe PPR. Systemic therapies Current therapies include antibiotics, betablockers and isotretinoin.24 Tetracyclines are antibiotics utilised in rosacea for more than 50 years. Their efficacy has been demonstrated by several clinical studies, especially for PPR. They are generally perceived to be safe, but have many side effects such as gastrointestinal distress, vulvovaginal candida, teratogenicity and photosensitivity.Doxycycline, when used at an anti-inflammatory dose i.e. 50mg, is effective for treating rosacea, avoids development of antibiotic resistance and has less severe side effects. Procedural therapies Different forms of lasers have been utilised in rosacea, especially for telangiectasia, as medical therapy has limited effects. Previously, flashlamp-
pumped long-pulse dye and potassium-titanylphosphate lasers were used. Nowadays, high energy lasers such as 595 nm long-pulse duration pulsed-dye lasers (PDL) are often well tolerated Another effective laser is the long-pulsed neodymium-doped yttrium aluminium garnet (Nd:YAG) laser, which is safe and affects deeper vessels.Nd:YAG has shown to be effective in reducing facial erythema, however, after four treatments PDL was more effective, but considerably more painful.19 Intense pulsed light (540- 950 nm) uses visible light to improve vascular lesions in rosacea. It targets, heats and destroys the red pigment in blood without impacting on surrounding structures. Other available options include: photodynamic therapy, CO2 lasers and erbium-doped YAG (Er:YAG).Both PDL and intense-pulsed-light therapy suggest equal efficacy for erythema and telangiectasia. Botulinum toxin is a neuromodulator and disrupts neuromuscular signalling, which reduces facial erythema and flushing. It is generally perceived to be safe but associated headaches have been reported. Therefore, it is used for the treatment of refractory erythema and larger studies are needed as only case studies currently exist. Currently no single modality exists to cure rosacea. Therefore treatment must be tailored according to symptoms, the severity/ grading of rosacea and the subtype. Overall, a combination of patient education regarding their condition, the importance of sunscreens, good skincare and hygiene is paramount. However, further research is needed to better understand the pathophysiology of rosacea and thus target treatment to provide individualised care. Dr Priya Patel is a core medical trainee at East Surrey Hospital. She is an aspiring dermatologist, currently working with Dr Cliff, and takes an active interest in topics involving allergy and immunology.
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MEDI & AESTHETICS
Perspective On Preservatives
PARABENS IN COSMETICS By Dr Andrew R. Christie
Chemical esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, parabens are a class of anti-fungal and antibacterial preservative used in over 70-80% of cosmetic products. They are also used as a common food additive. A white crystalline powder in their raw state, parabens are the most widely used preservative in the cosmetic industry worldwide. The most commonly used parabens include methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. Less well-known parabens include isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben and benzylparaben. Although methylparaben and propylparaben may be found naturally in Scandinavian cloudberries and methylparaben in blueberries and Tahitian vanilla, all commercial parabens are synthetically produced via the alcohol esterification (methyl = methanol, ethyl = ethanol, propyl = propanol) of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. This is produced using a combination of potassium phenoxide and carbon dioxide. Methylparaben may also be produced naturally by the glands of the yellow beetle (dytiscus marginalis), water bug (ilyocoris cimicoides), South East Asian fruit fly (dacus albistrigatus) and female dogs . Without parabens or preservatives, any cosmetic product (especially one that contains water) risks discolouration, separation, bacterial, fungal and microbial contamination. This contamination not only significantly reduces the lifespan and efficacy of a product, but also reduces its safety by increasing the risk of irritation and reaction to the skin, eyes and mucous membranes. Similarly to the backlash received by formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in the 1990s , parabens are currently experiencing major controversy within the cosmetic industry. Unfortunately, there is very limited data to support such negative claims and opinion fuelled by hysteric marketing strategies. 26
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Under normal circumstances, as part of topical product formulation, parabens are typically used between 0.03%-0.30% concentration. Though their individual MSDS (Material Safety & Data Sheet) at 100% concentrations class, methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and ethylparaben as slightly hazardous (in case of skin contact as sensitisers), the US FDA however classes parabens (at their appropriate concentrations) as GRAS (Generally Recognised As Safe) for both cosmetic and food applications.
PARABENS & BREAST CANCER/ OESTROGEN ELEVATION: In 2004, three articles published in The British Journal Of Applied Toxicology by a leading British Oncologist (Dr Philippa Darbre), attempted to connect the parabens found in personal care products (such as deodorant) to human breast cancer. The study was based on the findings of just 20 breast tissue tumour cases and found that 18 of the test subjects had between 2-12 nanograms of parabens per gram of tumour.
Dr. Andrew R. Christie
Darbre subsequently concluded that parabens found in deodorant could therefore be linked to breast cancer. The hysteria that then followed these incorrect claims then proceeded to promote the misconception that parabens used in topical skin care were a contributing cause to breast cancer. There are three very big problems with Dr Darbre’s study and claims: 1) There were only 20 test subjects (a very small number for to conduct any clinical) 2) Parabens were not only found in the tested breast tissue, but were also found in blank samples (containing no tissue). This questions the significance of the levels found in the tumours. 3) No comparison to normal tissue samples were referenced against the breast tumour tissue (indicating elevated or unusual levels). The original articles further hypothesised that parabens created an oestrogenic effect by stimulating the appropriate receptors and created an abnormal response. However, what was not published were the numerous studies indicating that phytoestrogens (especially those found in soy), also could create an oestrogenic effect in the body - to a far greater degree than parabens. 2005 studies on ginseng and dong quai showed “both significantly induced the growth of MCF-7 [cancer] cells ” with further studies indicating “commercially available products containing soy, red clover, and herbal combinations induced an increase in the MCF-7 [breast cancer] proliferation rates, indicating an oestrogen-antagonistic activity ”.
PUTTING PERSPECTIVE ON PARABENS: There has been intensely critical response to Darbre’s claims that link parabens to oestrogenic levels and breast cancer. Four key arguments state:
1. “We are all exposed to all kinds of chemicals, but it doesn’t mean that they all cause cancer. The question is whether the chemicals would have an impact on the hormones and, what level you would see in a healthy breast tissue. A casual link has by no means be proved .
parabens in underarm products and breast cancer. The intriguing discovery that parabens are present even in women who have never used underarm products raises the question: where have these chemicals come from ?”
2. There is no population based evidence to suggest a link (to parabens and breast cancer). Should any notional risk exist it would be insignificant when compared to other avoidable environmental risks for the disease [breast cancer] such as obesity .
Darbre and Barr have however failed to prove that parabens cause or contribute to the cancer:
3. It is impossible that parabens could increase the risk associated with exposure to oestrogenic chemicals ”. 4. It has been shown that any parabens which may be absorbed by the skin through topically applied facial or body cosmetics are broken down and turned into harmless substances: “Paraben esterse III of keratinocytes (a skin enzyme that breaks down parabens) is sufficient to completely hydrolyse the traces of parabens that may enter the skin from topically applied ointments ”. Parabens are then “fully metabolised before they enter the blood stream ” and are excreted via urine. Darbre continues with her research and as recently as January 2012 confirms, “parabens in breast tissue are not limited to woman who have used underarm products”. In a 2008 study, Darbre (and collaborator Dr Lester Barr) found that “parabens are measurable in the tissue of women who do not use underarm cosmetics the parabens must enter the breast from other sources”. This new study would confirm that the link between topically applied personal care products / cosmetics and paraben concentration has re-directed its focus to ingestible sources of parabens from food additives. Barr writes “our study appears to confirm the view that there is no simple cause and effect relationship between
“The fact that parabens were detected in much of the breast tissue samples cannot be taken to imply that they actually caused breast cancer in the women studied. However, the fact that parabens were present in so many of the breast tissue samples does justify further investigation ”. There has also yet to be any conclusive data supporting that parabens found within the body are in fact toxic or have any negative effects. The European Economic Community (EEC) Cosmetics Directive specifically permits 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters (parabens) for use as preservatives in all cosmetic products. The maximum authorised concentration is 0.4% (as the acid) for any one ester and no more than 0.8% (as the acid) for mixtures of esters. Rumours that parabens are banned in France and soon to be the United Kingdom are simply untrue. Parabens are internationally considered safe, non-toxic and non-carcinogenic when used at the ideal concentration for use as preservatives in food and cosmetic products. Paris based, Dr. Andrew R. Christie is the Director of Lipservice Consulting. As an industry specialist with over 20 years’ experience, Andrew is the Global Medical Trainer for Dermapenworld and the author of Advanced Innovations With Dermapen. Andrew is the current ABIA Educator Of The Year and has trained over 50,000 practitioners globally. Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
MEDI & AESTHETICS
SOFT THREAD LIFTING By Dr. Sarah Tonks
Whilst most therapists and salon owners do not claim to be medical professionals, more and more nurses and doctors are performing treatments within our businesses, and moving our clients towards non invasive treatments with little down time and excellent results. Thread lifts are one of those treatments as a nurse I often have interest and enquiry into, so her Dr Sarah Tonks shares some of her professional information and findings on the growing popular treatment of thread lifting.
Age-related changes in the facial skeleton, musculature, connective tissues, fat and skin manifest with universallyrecognised patterns. Advancing laxity in the soft tissues leads to a ptotic brow, jowl formation, nasolabial fold prominence and malar flattening. The appearance is further compromised by hyperpigmentated and wrinkled skin. A variety of procedures are available to rejuvenate the ageing face. The most commonly used options in the non-surgical aesthetics clinic are botulinum toxin, dermal fillers and chemical peeling. Non-surgical procedures have become popular in recent years as they allow for a faster turnaround time and can be performed outside the theatre environment, making them convenient for patients and practitioners alike. According to the review of the regulations of cosmetic interventions by the Department of Health in 28
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2013, the value of UK cosmetic procedures was worth ÂŁ2.3bn in 2010 and is estimated to rise to ÂŁ3.6bn in 2015.
trajectory; the threads are then pulled to lift the skin, secured and trimmed at the entry point.
THE HISTORY OF THREADS
It is perhaps better to consider thread lifting as a preliminary procedure, which combines well with other non-surgical procedures, rather than a surgical alternative. Threads can also be used to good effect post-surgery on a patient who has had a facelift and would like to lift the skin again, but is not ready for a second surgical procedure. It is important to distinguish initially between threads that are used for skin rejuvenation and threads that are used for lifting ptotic skin. These are both free-floating threads and not anchored to any point. Those for skin rejuvenation are used to give an overall improvement in the texture and tone of the skin and are monofilament threads, which are used in a lattice-work arrangement, inserted into the dermis. Usually around 10120 threads are inserted at one time depending
There has been a renewed interest in thread lifting over the past couple of years in the UK, perhaps because both practitioners and patients are looking for alternative ways of rejuvenating the face for those who do not wish to have injectables, or because they wish to utilise suspension threads in order to create lift. Threads have been marketed as an alternative to more invasive procedures such as a facelift due to the long recovery time or cost associated with a surgical facelift. Russian surgeon Mr Marlen Sulamanidze introduced the use of the barbed suture thread to lift ptotic facial tissues in the late 1990s.Variations of this original antiptosis suture (APTOS) have been used, which involve placement of cogged threads along a planned
LOOK AT THE INDICATION
on the indication. These straight and smooth threads are mounted on a 25G-31G needle, inserted into the skin, where due to the folding of the thread on the needle mount, it becomes a ‘V’ shape and remains in the skin. These threads are most usually made of polydioxanone (PDO).
• A patient may not want dermal filler treatment but would like to see an improvement in their appearance: Threads can provide a viable alternative to those individuals who would like improvement without use of dermal fillers. Spring threads can be used as an easy alternative in the nasolabial, malar and marionette regions. Spring threads are monofilament threads, which have been coiled around the introducing needle to make a spring shape. Monofilament threads can be used as an alternative to dermal fillers used for hydration and collagen stimulation. • A patient has had dermal fillers to lift the skin and would like more of a lift: There is a limited amount of lift achievable using dermal fillers alone because they are only capable of adding volume and give lift as a secondary effect by redistributing the volume in the face. For those patients who have undergone augmentation using the ‘8-point lift’ or ‘Tower technique’, a method of depositing dermal filler in a perpendicular depot, cogged and barbed threads can provide a further improvement of the appearance by giving additional lift.
Thread procedures often result in more downtime than that experienced when using injectables alone. For monofilament threads, the number of needle insertions necessary will inevitably result in bruising. For cogs and barbs, the entry point of the cannula or needle can be 16G, resulting in a visible entry area, and there can be irregularity of the skin over the thread tract for a couple of days. Patient management post-thread procedure can be difficult if they do not fully grasp the risks of bruising, swelling and puckering following treatment. Unlike hyaluronic acid dermal fillers, the procedure cannot be easily reversed. It is important that all the possible complications and expected side effects are discussed, and the patient is given adequate time to weigh-up the information before deciding to go ahead.
RISKS AND COMPLICATIONS
Asymmetry: A patient will often examine their appearance in great detail after a cosmetic procedure so it is important to point out any pre-existing asymmetries. Rippling and puckering: This is a complication seen when using barbs and cogs. If the thread is tightened too much then the skin will ripple over the thread and cause visible folding. If the thread has been placed in the correct tissue plane then this will typically resolve itself in a few days. Infection: From what I’ve seen, reported infection rates post-thread insertions are extremely low. All types of threads should be placed using an aseptic technique to reduce the risk of infection, which, practically speaking, translates as use of betadine or chlorhexidine preparation, use of a sterile
field such as surgical drapes for cogs and barbs (although this is not necessary for monofilament and springs) and use of a sterile dressing pack and gloves. Granuloma: Threads placed in a more superficial plane can lead to higher incidence of granuloma formation.16 In a study of 100 patients receiving either PDO or Prolene after minor breast biopsy, a buried knot eroded through the skin in 17% of PDO patients due to positioning and granuloma formation.
From a traditional surgical background, and with degrees in both Medicine and Dentistry, Dr Sarah is able to combine established and proven non surgical aesthetic treatments with her new passion for holistic, natural therapies to maximise the results of your treatment, making her one of Londons premier practitioners of anti ageing medicine.
MEDI & AESTHETICS
METHODS OF MICRO By Sara Whithorn
Microdermabrasion was 1st introduced to the World of Aesthetics in 1980’s Europe, and was also known as the ‘Parisian Peel’. It is well documented as a highly effective treatment for a variety of skin conditions, and has been a workhorse for Australian Aesthetics and Beauty clinics, and salons for over a decade. 1 size does not fit all. Skin conditions dictate the correct modality for each patient, as well as consideration of other procedures Microdermabrasion treatments are resultsfocused treatments; therefore, it is important that the therapist tailors the treatment to suit the client’s skin type and skin concerns. It is important that the therapist assesses the client’s skin before making any recommendation or providing advice on what the possible results of the treatment will be. The therapist can vary their technique, application and pressure depending on the client’s concerns and their skin condition There are 2 types of MDA machines: medical and beauty. The medical units have a greater exfoliating affect than the beauty units. The larger the motor, the more powerful the machine, the greater the force of the crystals Crystal microdermabrasion was one of the first types of microdermabrasion treatments. It involves the use of a machine which sprays a fine mist of crystals across the skin at high velocity. This process results in the removal of the top layer of the epidermis. Crystal microdermabrasion is the deepest form of mechanical exfoliation, and fantastic for sun damaged and thickened skin, however isn’t suitable for all skin conditions, and you wouldn’t offer this solutions as part of a ay CIT treatment on the same day. Likewise, a crystal microdermabrasion treatment is an unlikely choice for a client who had an event to go to that day/night Corundum crystals. (Aluminium oxide) Aluminium oxide is one of the hardest hygienic materials after diamond. These crystals are hard, coarse and uneven can be used even on sensitive or vascular skin. This helps to provide prevention against skin itching, eczema and psoriasis. Due to their antibacterial properties, the crystals are ideal for treating acne and congested skin conditions. Crystals are the preferred method for microdermabrasion treatments providing the best results Aluminium oxide is the fourth most abundant compound in the earth’s crust and is the principal component of bauxite. Crystalline aluminium oxide is second only to the diamond. Aluminium oxide is “environmentally friendly” and allowed in landfills With the number of modalities available to the World of Aesthetics, it’s no longer acceptable to offer diamond microdermabrasion as your sole solution. 30
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As we know, combination treatments achieve higher efficacy so why would you limit the solutions available to your clients, which ultimately taking away from your bottom line? Diamond microdermabrasion is a fantastic modality to use on skin that isn’t compromised, yet not thickened, pre / post (depending on when and where you were taught) skin peel, or a very light diamond microdermabrasion immediately prior to CIT (dependant on skin condition/type). Hydrabrasion is the latest in aesthetic technology to polish, refine and hydrate in the 1 treatment. The dermabrasion removes the dead skin cell build up, while the water treatment cleanses the skin further, providing hydration. A real possibility for those ‘Red Carpet’ treatments, on the day of event, and a potential solution for those with compromised skin integrity / fragile skin, and acneic skin Oxybrasion is a combination of Diamond microdermabrasion and Oxygen therapy. AKA “The Cinderella” facial. This is THE BEST form of exfoliation on the day of your event. A light diamond microdermabrasion will polish the skin, removing any dead skin build up, while the Oxygen infusion plumps the skin, smoothing the
skin texture which allows makeup to be applied beautifully post treatment. Pressurised air accelerates of up to 95% pure oxygen at high speed through a nozzle. It allows you to very superficially polish and refine the stratum corneum, while pushing oxygen molecules to deeper levels of the dermis; Skin cells are nourished, improved cell metabolism, instant temporary result. These treatments are most sought after prior to special events such as wedding days, gala events, public speaking events, celebrity award events, parties. Your clients know more about the results they want to achieve, and how we as professionals achieve them. Stay in control of your client’s skin journey by having all modalities available, so that everyone is a potential candidate for glowing, and healthy skin while growing your business and bottom line, with professional solutions for everyone Sara Whithorn is the Sales & Training Manager for Clairderm Medical Aesthetics which supply equipment and training Australia wide. With a long career in beauty and aesthetics, Sara has a particular interest in equipment training and is based on the Gold Coast. www.clairderm.com
W E N
P R O F E S SI O N A L
Wax Heater • High performance heating system • Variable temperature control • Suitable for all wax types
• Easy ﬁt drip ring – easy clean • Includes 1litre insert
Contact M&U Imports for full product details on (03) 9555 1533 email@example.com | www.muimports.com.au 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia
MEDI & AESTHETICS A Major Upgrade for
HAIR REMOVAL AND SKIN REJUVENATION
Hair removal, skin rejuvenation, vascular and pigmentation are becoming the most sought after treatments by beauty consumers in Australia. Demand is growing and it is predicted that beauty businesses offering these services will grow faster than those that do not.
We have reviewed a lot of the technology used in the Australian market and take a look at the Spectrum IPL machine which is regarded as a favourite in Australia by many due to quality, affordability, results, service and the fact it is designed for the Australian market.
IPL TECHNOLOGY IN AUSTRALIA
Spectrum has been instrumental in allowing salons and clinics to offer advanced devicebased treatments including IPL technology to their clients, without having to take a step back. They have opened up the market to people who historically couldn’t enter this space because these fantastic pieces of equipment were not affordable. Spectrum have been a leader in offering high quality IPL technology at price points that enable repayments plus profit for salon and clinic owners. This means they can service the debt and make more money. It isn’t just the cost that caters to this sector of the aesthetic market. Spectrum introduced full solutions including finance, installation, training, marketing guidance, clinical support, payment technology, technical and service support. It is easy to see why Spectrums’s customers are changing the face of the Australian beauty market.
SPECTRUM LUMIERE PRO
Spectrum has released a major upgrade in their IPL technology with the NEW Spectrum Lumiere Pro and it is a technological breakthrough for hair removal and skin rejuvenation. Featuring IPL, 32
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SHR and BBL the Lumiere Pro was created to answer all the needs of the Australian market.
TREATMENT INDICATIONS INCLUDE: IPL and SHR Applications Skincare and rejuvenation Permanent hair reduction Vascular treatment Epidermal pigmentation Spots and freckles Acne Skin lifting
BBL APPLICATIONS Face skin rejuvenation Face skin toning Body skin anti-aging
THE FULL SPECTRUM
Introducing technology successfully requires more than great equipment. We look at what Spectrum offer on top of technology and find that they have recently introduced a full support turnkey solution for their customer which is a first of its kind. Installation, training, payment technology/platform for the clinic, eftpos terminals to reduce fees, marketing, technical support and service support are some of the solutions their customers receive. This means customers are getting all the tools, skills, knowledge and support they’ll need to optimally launch, implement and grow their business with the latest in technologies. Only with these tools and full support offering can clinics maximise their return on investment.
If you are looking at stepping up your business we would highly recommend you to take a look at Spectrum IPL technology to take advantage of the major growth that is expected in the contouring and tightening sector. Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 firstname.lastname@example.org www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au
EXPERIENCE THE SPECTRUM POINT OF DIFFERENCE
GET THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY IN IPL The Spectrum Lumiere is an outstanding piece of equipment that is the result of three years of development. It utilises state of the art technology paired with countless exciting features. Operating in both Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and Super Hair Removal (SHR) modes, it does it all from hair reduction to acne, vascular, photorejuvenation and even pigmentation. With a simple operating system and low operating costs, there’s nothing standing between your salon and this sleek piece of equipment. If you would like to learn more about the Spectrum Lumiere please call 1300 766 198.
WHAT IS THE SPECTRUM POINT OF DIFFERENCE? Due to our impressive experience and expertise in the beauty, medical and aesthetic arenas we are able to provide an outstanding experience unlike any other. Meet, The Spectrum Point of Difference. Providing only the latest innovations & superior quality Comprehensive product and methodology training Business, Marketing and Technical Support
MAR KETS MUL TIPLE
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DOWNLOAD OUR EBOOK
5 Ways an IPL Machine Can Boost Your Business
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Ways an IPL Machine Can Boost Your Business
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Learn why getting an IPL Machine ISN’T as difficult as it sounds Tips, tricks and recommendations to get the results you want Industry expert advice
Unmatched Customer Service
Visit the Spectrum website today www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au
A Little Bit of
Carmen Anuriw has received a cult following in the last few years, due to her love of skin and also her popularity on social media. Better known as the Skin Fairy to her followers, Carmen obtained her CIDESCO International Beauty Diploma in 2006. After developing her beauty techniques and gaining her qualifications Carmen travelled to London for further study at the highly sought after Steiner Academy. Upon graduation, Carmen was offered employment by Steiner transoceanic on a Royal Caribbean Luxury Cruise line which gave her a professional pathway to high class beauty treatments abroad. After returning to Australia to continue her practice Carmen enrolled in an Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science at the Australian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science. After graduating in 2010 Carmen began working as a qualified Dermal Therapist in a cosmetic medical practice for five years where she mastered her craft, she has been since providing clients with high quality, professional yet personal service. Carmen has long since aspired to run her own skin clinic and is very passionate about the industry, she is quite literally skin obsessed, in 2014 The Skin Fairy was born. She opened in Nedlands in early 2015, and has created a space that is the place to visit, focusing on individualised skin rejuvenating programs for problematic skin sufferers, brides, and clients who want to improve and maintain their skin health, Skin Fairy Clinic is now one of WA’s most well renowned skin clinics, and is recognised Australia wide and Internationally, most recently Carmen won Player of the Year in San Francisco at The Skin Games, a world wide recognised competition.
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In 2016 Skin Fairy Clinic was awarded the National Winner for DMK ‘Clinic of Australia’, Carmen also took out DMK’s ‘WA Therapist for the year’, amongst other awards, along with her team. With over 12 years of experience in the industry, Carmen takes pride and specialises in tailoring treatments to meet the needs and goals of each client to help create the ‘best’ version of themselves. Her level of care, attention to detail and ambition for results are the reasons behind Carmen’s ever-growing reputation amongst her regular and new clientele.
WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THE ‘SKIN FAIRY’ ?
My long term client Kylie simply called me her “Skin Fairy” one day and that was the start of it all. I have been a therapist for 13 years and always been obsessed with skin and all the chemistry and biology behind it all… so the name seemed to fit perfectly and ive never looked back.
HAS YOUR PRODUCT OF CHOICE BEEN A BIG FACTOR IN YOUR SUCCESS? No I think my passion towards helping others and a general love for skin has been why, I have lived and breathed DMK (Danne Montague King) from the age of 17 when I was first introduced to it in Beauty School, and this is my tool of choice which I LOVE and I wouldn’t use anything else, but I have had always loved this industry and my passion has been around since day one, the business has had exposure over the past 2.5 years but I was working on my craft way before then.
DO YOU WORK ALONE OR IN A TEAM?
I work within a team, I have 5 crazy talent skin therapists who all work along side me! The dream team I call them.
HAS SOCIAL MEDIA IMPACTED GREATLY ON YOUR BUSINESS?
Social media is amazing as its free marketing and you are able to show case your work and share clients journeys and stories. I find it’s such a positive forum to be able to show how someones life can be changes, its really an inside look into someones business/vision and you can connect and share with others around the world within the same industry which is what I really enjoy.
WHAT ARE YOUR BUSINESS PLANS GOING FORWARD FOR THE NEXT YEAR?
I am currently expanding my team of skin therapists & developing my current teams skill set for the following year to come. Skin Fairy Clinic is situated at 145 Stirling Highway, Nedlands, Perth WA 6009 www.skinfairyclinic.com.au www.instagram.com/theskinfairy
Want to make a difference? Join the #DMKSkinObession and change the way you do skin.
Professional Skin Revision Remove, Rebuild, Protect, Maintain. ACNE
www.dannemking.com.au | Call 1800 222 342
Cosmetic Professional Development Institute
A HIGH QUALITY HAVEN OF TRAINING
It was her background in mental health nursing that helped Nicky Tzimas identify a need for better education, consultation and support in the cosmetic beauty industry.
And it was the realisation that drove her to create the Cosmetic Professional Development (CPD) Institute of Australia. With her skills in both nursing and the beauty industry a perfect training organisation was created. The Elsternwick-based training centre is a niche organisation offering boutique training for small groups of dedicated nurses, doctors and beauty professionals. “We didn’t want to be like a ‘factory’, training up large groups of 40 or 50 people at a time,” Ms Tzimas said. “What we do instead is train very small groups, one-on-one training. We have the opportunity to get to know each student and provide them with a really high quality level of education. Everyone 36
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who has come through has done really well, which is so exciting to see.” CPD runs a variety of courses that benefit the beauty industry. Cosmetic injectable training courses and dermal filler courses are run regularly and are in demand. The high quality of training means that nurses and doctors are work ready when completing the course, having the skills they need to commence practice with confidence and competency. A pathway exists for nurses enabling them to have access to doctor support and scripting services. CPD can also assist in providing highly qualified cosmetic nurse injectors to beauty and dermal clinics, allowing clinics to offer popular anti-wrinkle and dermal filler treatments. Other courses include Skin Science, which includes skin needling and medical grade
chemical peels along with other facial treatments. The 3 day cosmetic tattooing workshops, PRP (plasma rich platelet) treatment training and IPL short course are also popular. Trainers have vast experience in their fields and really enjoy working with the small class sizes, which means each course can be tailored to meet individual needs. Practical training means students get to work with live models under the supervision of their trainer. Further advanced training in cosmetic injectables allows students to keep expanding their skills and many students return to learn more in this ever growing field, developing ongoing relationships with the Institute’s trainers and becoming part of the “ CPD family”. CPD Institute 03 9041 3782 or visit the site: cpdinstitute.com.au
ADVANCED PROFESSIONAL COSMETICS
EXPERIENCE THE NEW SCIENCE IN ANTI-AGEING
EPIGENETICS TRANSFORMS GENES TO REVERSE AGEING Containing Epigenol, a high purity ingredient that switches on Youthfulness Proteins in our genes (which are switched off when ageing begins)
RESULTS WORTH EXPERIENCING After a single treatment, skin appears: 99% firmer* 88% less wrinkles* 95% globally rejuvenated* *Clinical studies on 173 women aged between 36-73 years
RECEIVE $1500 WORTH OF BONUS STOCK when you become a GDC stockist before 31 October 2017. Call 1300 432 100 for full T&Cs. Offer available to qualifying businesses - minimum order value of $2500 (inc GST) required.
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BEAUTY TRENDS For A Competitive Edge By Belinda Craigie
A recent IBIS World report on hairdressing and beauty services in Australia (S9511, Jan 2017) points to emerging trends in the industry that are providing much-needed growth segments for hair and beauty providers, who are facing an increasingly competitive climate where customer retention and service innovation is paramount to staying ahead of the game. Trade conferences or expo events offer a smorgasbord of skilled professionals sharing their expertise about all facets of the beauty industry – and are an undeniably efficient way to benefit your professional development. Multiple seminars, workshops and demonstrations on a variety of topics are offered from representatives of multiple brands across the industry, and take place all under one roof. Australia’s premier beauty event, Beauty Expo Australia, will return to its Darling Harbour home on 26-27 August 2017, where it will offer beauty professionals a curated education program designed to give practitioners access to relevant information and skills from top industry educators. Outlined below are some of the trends that are making it big in the beauty industry right 38
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now and the education seminars you can attend at Expo to update your skills and expertise, and confidently offer your clients the services they seek.
THE MOST IMPORTANT TREND: BEING ON TREND
Staying well-informed in new technologies and innovations in the industry is a fantastic way to differentiate your business from your competitors, attract new clients – particularly those who demand the latest beauty treatments – and increase your profits: “High competition restricts the ability of operators that offer generic services to increase prices, and drives down profit margins for the industry as a whole. Only operators that can offer unique and high-quality services can charge premium prices.” (IBISWorld report S9511, Jan 2017, p.21)
TREND: MALE CLIENTELE
As male consumers become more image conscious, services that were traditionally marketed toward women, such as nail care and hair removal, are becoming more gender-neutral, according to IBISWorld. This increase in market size is providing a revenue boost for the beauty industry, particularly because men’s grooming services are often charged at a premium. At Beauty Expo Australia 2017, men’s grooming will be covered by several education topics, including: • Skin men want by Sarah Hudson. In this dermal therapy session, expert Sarah Hudson will show you how incorporating men’s treatments into your medi-clinic or salon will enable you to expand your service offering and clientele – from younger clients who may
be interested in grooming services, to older clients who want anti-ageing solutions. • Perfecting men’s brows by Jazz Pampling. During this one-hour session, watch Aussie brow guru Jazz Pampling’s live demonstration on how to make men’s brows look clean without looking overly groomed. • Holy Brazilian with Lydia Jordane. This session will not only teach you how to do your best ever Brazilian wax, but you’ll also learn tips and tricks from the founder and CEO of Lycon Cosmetics on the Manzilian treatment, as well.
TREND: PERMANENT MAKEUP/ MICROPIGMENTATION
Grooming services that offer longevity, like microblading, are becoming more appealing to consumers who are time-poor and lead increasingly busy lives; a trend that’s reflected in the popularity of equipment and education in semi-permanent and permanent beauty solutions appearing at leading international beauty shows like Cosmoprof. Techniques and technology in permanent makeup are more sophisticated than ever, meaning a polished yet natural look can be achieved with the right combination of skills and tools. The focus on natural beauty is possibly
even more relevant to the Australian consumer, thanks to our outdoor, active lifestyles that call for low-maintenance options to our beauty routines that last the distance. At Beauty Expo Australia 2017, beauty practitioners can learn techniques in services like scalp micropigmentation, skin needling, eyebrow nano-needling, and microblading feather stroke and ombre brows from leading educators in the field.
TREND: ANTI-AGEING AND DERMAL THERAPIES
Anti-ageing and dermal therapies are longstanding trends that continue to prove lucrative treatment offerings for beauty practitioners. According to IBISWorld, Australia’s ageing population has driven customer demand for antiageing treatments over the past five years. There will be a strong focus on anti-ageing and dermal therapy at Beauty Expo Australia 2017 to cater to the demand for these services, including seven dedicated dermal/anti-ageing education sessions: • Dawn Clifford will teach you how customised peeling treatments will treat you clients’ skin issues and increase your profit
• In addition to her session on skin treatments for men, dermal therapist Sarah Hudson will speak about the latest treatments in nonsurgical skin firming for the face and other parts of the body like the neck, abdomen and arms • Gay Wardle will look at the impact that different hormones can have on our skin as we age; as well as teaching a session on the five most common skin conditions and how we treat them • Janine Tait will share how the Slow Beauty movement can transform your clients’ skin from within by taking a holistic approach to treatment • Frank Perri, Claire Simpson, and Jennifer Byrne will look at why dermal therapy is becoming such a coveted force in the beauty industry, how to make the transition to incorporate dermal treatments, and the scope of practicing dermal therapy across your business To learn about all the education topics on offer at Beauty Expo Australia this year that can benefit your business, visit www.beautyexpoaustralia.com.au
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
ASAPS Wrap By April Jones
The Gold Coast Convention Centre recently came alive for 3 jam-packed days of knowledge and networking at the ASAPS Non-Surgical Symposium. The Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (ASAPS) joined forces with the Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA), the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatologists (ASCD), and the New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Medicine (NZSCM) to put on the premier educational event of the year. This was my 2nd year attending and what I love is learning something new each time, catching up with peers, colleagues and friends, exchanging ideas and knowledge. The Scientific Committee is dedicated to providing us with great speakers, leaders and experts from all over the world. The NSS is considered Australiaâ€™s premier event for non-surgical aesthetics in Australasia. It was a sell-out in 2015, 2016, and has followed suit in 2017 at the Gold Coast Convention & Exhibition Centre. Now the biggest aesthetic meeting of itâ€™s kind in Australasia, the NSS saw 10 international keynote speakers from across the globe, all of whom are considered top experts in their fields The symposium covered all facets of nonsurgical medicine, providing nurses and clinic professionals with a wealth of current knowledge 40
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in the areas of injectables, laser and light treatments, and advanced skin care. Conference delegates attended talks from esteemed national and international fellow professionals about the latest advancements in skin tightening and fractional lasers and I was excited to see so many businesses keen to bring back their new knowledge and apply it to their practice. One of the highlights was the new Fotona SP Dynamis laser, which incorporates both body skin tightening treatments (TightSculpting) as well as erbium fractional laser to treat a wide array of skin concerns from enlarged pores, skin firming, fine lines and wrinkles, and the removal of benign lesions. The Anatomical Live Injecting Workshop was a must for all cosmetic injectors. This gives a good insight of the anatomy of the face, the different layers under the epidermis and the many vessels that runs across the face. It provides us
the knowledge and where injectable should be placed safely. It makes us all the more aware of the dangers that lies beneath the skin and to become a more experience injector overall, and 60 doctors and nurses were given the opportunity to participate this year. Another highlight at the conference was the practice manager sessions, for staff of practices and clinics. They have an abundance of Practice Management, HR issues, Social Media and Marketing, Patient Management and Customer Satisfaction as well as various other topics. These sessions are interactive and designed for Practice Managers to get involved. ASAPS will once again feature on the Gold Coast in 2018 with the promise of more exciting educational events and high level speakers from around the world.
EVERYTHING YOU EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SKIN! ABOUT SKIN! With Gay Wardle With Gay Wardle
3 Days of Power Packed Education 3 Days of Power Packed Education DAY 1: Back to Basics DAY 1: Back to Basics
DAY 2: Advanced Skin Anatomy DAY 2: Advanced Skin Anatomy
UPCOMING UPCOMING DATES DATES
Cell Biology, Cell Nutrition, Skin Anatomy (Transferring Cell Cellof Nutrition, Skin Cell Anatomy (Transferring your Biology, knowledge Cell Biology, Nutrition and Skin your knowledge of Cell Biology, Cell Nutrition and Skin Anatomy to design effective treatment plans). Anatomy to design effective treatment plans).
Ageing skin, acne, pigmentation, immune system, impact Ageing skin, on acne, of hormones the pigmentation, skin and muchimmune more. system, impact of hormones on the skin and much more.
DAY 3: Skin Disorders DAY 3: Skin Disorders
Rosacea, hyper-proliferative disorders, DNA disorders Rosacea, hyper-proliferative disorders, DNA disorders Professionals working with skin anatomy must remain on a Professionals working with skin anatomy remain a relentless journey of lifelong learning to must ensure that on they relentless of lifelong with learning to ensure and that skills they continually journey equip themselves the knowledge continually equip to themselves with the knowledge andcutting skills that are required deliver and perform current and that required to deliver and perform current and cutting edgeare treatments. edge treatments. Gay Wardleâ€™s workshops and courses are designed to Gay Wardleâ€™s workshops courses are to provide the participant with and this knowledge anddesigned these skills. provide the participant with this knowledge and these skills. Education is the key to confidence in treatment planning, Education is successful the key toresults confidence treatment planning, delivery and for theinclient! delivery and successful results for the client!
Gay Wardle is an independant trainer who loves sharing Gay WardleThere is an will independant trainer loves sharing education. be absolutely nowho promotion of any education. will be absolutely skin care orThere equipment brands duringno thepromotion courses. of any skin care or equipment brands during the courses.
1 Day 1 2 Day Days 2 3 Days 3 Days
$350 $350 $590 $590 $780 $780
Perth Perth 10, 11, 12th September 10, 11, 12th September Gold Coast Gold 13, 14Coast & 15th November 13, 14 & 15th November NZ NZ 4, 5 & 6th September 4, 5 & 6th September
BOOK ONLINE BOOK ONLINE
www.gaywardle.com.au www.gaywardle.com.au Phone 0418 708 455 Phone 0418 708 455 Email email@example.com Email firstname.lastname@example.org
This August sees the first lash extension conference at the beautiful Gold Coast, Queensland. Lash Bash was the love child of 3 of the most sought-after Eyelash Extensions Trainers: Mandy Jeffery from Australian Lash and Brow Artists, Mimmi Ebbersten from Lashia and Julia Mann from Lash Tribe. United they have over 30 years of experience not only in the lash extension industry but in many facets of the beauty industry. They have brought together some of the best lash trainers, lash artists and business builders seen in the industry to date for this two day event. Lash Bash will be teaching about the latest’s techniques and innovations in our industry as well as the business, branding and social media strategies that will ensure the best start in this career. This is not only a listen and learn conference but on the second day there are 7 different classes to choose from to hone skills or learn new ones to advance lash careers. Day One covers a variety of subjects including: • The lash sisterhood with Kelly Storer owner of Enchanted Spa • How products are manufactured – by Kei 42
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Kim the CEO of Beautier Lashes in her first Australian visit! • Sommer Deaves (LPL Studio) lash journey – how this mother of 4 not only runs a successful lash studio but also teaches and has the time for family • How to recruit and build a successful team with Aleena Maney owner of the successive lash franchise, Just Lashes • Work environment and chemistry safety with Mimmi Ebbersten owner of Lashia • Lash cleansing with Jodie Burwood owner of Lash Sublime • Safe lash removals with Mandy Jeffery owner of Australian Lash and Brow Artists • Adhesive tips and tricks and how to master retention with Pixie Ambler owner of Pixies Lashes • Photo perfection and editing secrets with Julia Mann owner of Lash Tribe • Build a successful Instagram with Trina Dial Horne owner of Maven • Dealing with customers – the do’s and don’ts with Lydia Kypros owner of The Beehive and Bronze Bombshell • Otto Mitter – his journey on how he built a world-wide company • Experts panel open Q&A session to end the day
Day 2 attendees are able to choose three of these 2-hour classes on the Sunday which include: • Social media, sales and staffing with Julia and Lydia • Speed lashing, isolation and safety with Mimmi and Aleena • Henna Eyebrows with Mandy and Jodie • Advanced styling and lash mapping with Kelly • Lash Lift introduction with Otto • Ideal fan making with Trina Dial Horne – Maven - in her first Australian Training! • Fantasy and Lash Art, Competitions and Nailing the Kim K styling with Pixie There will also be exhibitions stalls from some of our amazing sponsors Eleebana, Locks Lash, Enchanted Spa and Lash Inc Australasia, Lash Sublime, Lashia, Lash Tribe and Australian Lash and Brow Artists. Without these amazing sponsors including The Lash& Brow Directory, Elite Lash Supplies, Glamcor, Anzei, Just Lashes, Lady Power Lash, Maven, Pixes Lash Artistry, Beautier and The Beehive. www.lashbash.com.au
Lash & Brow •TRAINING•
THE INNOVATORS OF ELLEEBANA AND BELMACIL BRING YOU WORLD CLASS EDUCATION IN THE ART OF • VOLUME EYELASH EXTENSIONS • BEGINNERS EYELASH EXTENSIONS • LASH EXTENSIONS REFRESHER • LASH LIFT • BROW SHAPING & COLOUR STYLING
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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017
2017 ABIA Make Up Artist of the Year The ABIAâ€™s have teamed up with Laud Magazine as the NEW sponsor of the highly acclaimed ABIA Make Up Artist of the Year category!! With 3 times the usual number of entries this year the competition was tough, and in an industry first organisers called in new experts to judge this category exclusively. Judges included a stellar line up of well known industry icons, make up artists, educators, media and editorial stylists including:Napoleon Perdis, Rae Morris, Camerion Jane Thomas, Trish Lee Geosits, Becca Gilmartin, Dale Dorning, Rachel Montgomery, Mia Connor, Anthony Nader and Jodie Watkins. Judging is based equally on both photographic collecitons and written submissions and in this special ABIA MUA tribute we are happy to share all of the finalists collections.
THE 2017 FINALISTS ARE.. Alana Mevissen | Bernice Mansfield | Christina Rodio Isabelle De Vries | Kristin Martin | Lizzie Sharp | Nicole Bratis Sheri Vegas | Valentina Pintus | Vikki Aldridge The 2017 WINNER will be announced at the ABIA Gala Event in Sydney on the 27th August 2017 at the Hyatt Regency The 2017 ABIA Make Up Artist of the Year will WIN
A photographic collection shoot and main feature interview in Laud magazine PLUS the runner up will receive an online profile! And if that isnâ€™t enough... ALL finalists will also receive a copy of the beautiful Year book - RISE Vol I
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2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
BERNICE MANSFIELD 2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
ISABELLE DE VRIES 2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
KRISTIN MARTIN 2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
LIZ SHARP 2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
NICOLE BRATIS 2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
SHERI VEGAS 2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
VALENTINA PINTUS 2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
2017 ABIA MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR FINALIST
AUSTRALIAN MAKEUP INDUSTRY AWARDS
8 1 0 2 BIA NG TO HIA & A
I M O C g initiative | Owners of A shin
publi a h c o Am
ARTof A GOOD BROW The
By Mandy Jeffery, Australian Lash and Brow Artists
Brows are so HOT right now! And they go perfectly hand-in-hand with the Lash Services you currently offer your clients.
We have all seen pictures of amazing lashes but often the brows just take away from the finished result, right? How would you like to create not only perfect lashes, but also perfect brows for your clients and gain NEW clients to your business? Gaining brow clients not only helps your bottom line as brows are high profit services - even more so than lashes as they take much less time and are much less strain on our bodies. If you are great at brows and offer more than a quick 5-minute wax job you will create a loyal following of raving fans! Also, I would say 90% of women love brows and having them look great while there are a lot of women who don’t like lashes or can’t wear them due to allergies. By becoming an accomplished brow artist, you open your business up to so many new opportunities! Imagine you have 20 lash clients a week. With a little effort you can upgrade 50% of them to start a brow journey with you. This will equate to about an extra 10 hours of work with very little $ outlay. You don’t need to win over these clients as they already love their lashes and will be so much happier being able to get their brows and lashes created in the same salon! Win/win for both of you. Most brow artists charge upwards of $50 for a brow design and this can include tinting and henna.
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The design process for their first appointment will take a bit longer than normal as you need to consult with your client about their desired outcome and, of course, we need to manage these expectations and let them know what we can and cannot create for them. The majority of my clients have very over-plucked 90s brows (it was a cruel time in the brow world!) so to create a full brow for them with hair and tint is next to impossible. This is where Brow Henna is a saviour for these clients and they will love, love, love you! I have been using Brow Henna daily with my clients for over 3 years now and I am still blown away by the outcomes we can create! Brow Henna is a brow only tint but it differs from traditional brow tinting as it creates a skin stain as well as a hair stain to give the illusion of a full brow. Why is this beneficial to your clients? Many clients will have rounded brows, hooked brows or brows that are too far apart due to out-dated measuring systems from the 90s and early 2000s. We simply didn’t know any better. Times are changing and a full, even, smooth brow is what is desired by clients. Clients that cannot regrow their natural hair benefit from henna as we can create new brow lines for them and then teach them to draw these lines in as the henna fades. Giving our clients this guide on their skin makes it so much easier for them to follow at home. Stencils are fiddly and often end up in the
bottom of the make-up bag and a lot of people can’t actually see well enough to make their brows look like sisters – they end up with distant cousins drawn on! So make it easy for your clients to have the wow brows that they desire. If you are proficient in tinting you can try your hand at Brow Henna on your own but it does work quite differently to traditional tints so I do recommend you undertake some training so you can get the best out of your Brow Henna and then we can offer you on-going support to achieve brow success! When it comes to shaping and design, a lot can go wrong with brows and sometimes those muchneeded hairs do not ever grow back, no matter what growth serums we use. We have seen there is a huge gap in the industry for affordable and real-life training in design. We have joined forces to create a comprehensive brow design class with hands-on training by trainers who still actively perform treatments on clients so we can totally relate to any issues you have. Mandy Jeffery is a master henna trainer and brow/lash artist. She will be launching a hands on class around Australia by the end of August 2017 and it will complement hands-on Brow Henna Training. www.alabamasterclass.com.au
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A SMOOTH FLAWLESS ARGAN VEGAN CONCEALER LOOK CONCEAL
Twist Argan Concealer stick up and apply directly to blemishes, rednessArgan or imperfections. Silk Oil of Morocco’s Vegan Cream
Concealer mediuminto to Use finger tips todelivers blend Argana Concealer coverage to camouflage and conceal skin for a seamless finish.
full dark under eye circles, blemishes, redness Easy application and smooth crease proof and any imperfections with one easy glide formula provides a lightweight buildable on motion. Can also be used to contour coverage. the face, creating light and shade for a Ideal for hidingprofessional dark circles and shadows in flawless make-up finish. the delicate under eye area. The lightweight, ultra-creamy and vegan Finish by applying Argan Powder or Argan into the friendly formula blends seamlessly Liquid/ Cream foundation to complete complexion for a flawless finish. Enhanced makeup look.Pressed Certified Organic Argan with Cold Oil, Jojoba Oil and Shea Butter to help provide skin with moisture and hydration.
Get a flawless complexion using Silk’s Argan Concealer finish to camouflage any redness around the nose, chinformula and underallows eye area. • Crease-proof buildable
coverage Argan Concealers provide an instantly • Long wearing that out lasts hour after hour flawless coveragecream that evens any discoloration the complexion. • Formulatedinwith light reflecting pigments
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Apply Argan Concealer to the under eyes Oilfatigued, packed tired full oflooking vitamins, toArgan brighten skin.antioxidants, omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids to Giving the appearance of aessential more revitalised help provide skin with a moisture & hydration complexion.
boost • Manufactured in Australia Free From: • SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), ALS (Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate) & SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) • Parabens • Alcohol • Lanolin • Fragrance • Animal Testing • Bismuth Oxychloride • Talc • Artificial Dyes
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Argan Concealer shades lighter than your • Certified Organic1-2 Shea Butter natural skin Kaolin tone. Clay • Australian • Gentle Plant Waxes Carnauba) Apply this shade to the(Candelilla under eyes & and high • Light Mineral Ingredients points Reflecting of the face to highlight the face. (Mica & Zinc Oxide) Use a Silk Blending Sponge to buff Argan • Vitamin E Concealer into the skin for an airbrush finish. Remember to set Argan Concealer with
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Fact: Argan Vegan Concealers come in three versatile shades that are perfect for BENEFITS: • Promotes a smooth, flawless looking colour correcting, concealing and even highlighting! complexion • Conceals blemishes, redness and other imperfections • Colour corrects dark under eye circles and skin discolourations • Can be used to contour facial features • Easy to use twist concealer stick applicator • Offered in 3 shades suitable for a variety of skin tones • 100% Vegan Friendly • Ultra-creamy mineral formula that blends seamlessly • Provides lightweight, medium-full coverage
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
- LIGHT (suitable for fair complexions) - MEDIUM (suitable for medium complexions) - DARK (suitable for medium dark to dark complexions)
• Cold Pressed Certified Organic Argan Oil • Certified Organic Jojoba Oil
MAKE UP SHOP MISS JEAN LIPSTICK BY NAPOLEON PERDIS
Creamy, silky and luxe in comfort and texture, take your pick from matte, metallic or shimmer for instant, rich colour payoff. Infused with smouldering pigments for instant colour laydown, the nourishing blend of ingredients leaves lips soft and infused for long-lasting wear. www.napoleonperdis.com
THE POST-MAKEUP RECOVERY SPRAY BY SKINDINAVIA
Delivers a quick boost of key nutrients, including powerhouse mineral zinc that is clinically-proven to help prevent breakouts and clear clogged pores, promoting luminous, clear skin -the baseline for flawless makeup application. Sprayed on within 5 minutes of removing makeup, our cutting-edge delivery system quickly delivers a winning formula of zinc, magnesium and willow bark to keep skin clear and radiant the moment your skin needs it the most! www.skindinavia.com.au
FIRST BASE MAKE UP PRIMER BY GORGEOUS COSMETICS
Gorgeous skin starts with a perfect base. This creamy, soothing liquid is enriched with Aloe Vera so watch your natural pigment return to the surface as this water-binding agent reduces redness and soothes the epidermis! Also dosed with antioxidants & hydrating emollients for keeping the skin hydrated, protected and smooth all day long. Applied after moisturising and before foundation, it helps foundation to last longer and look fresh for hours. www.gorgeouscosmetics.com
RADIANT REFLECTIONS EYE COLOUR BY NAPOLEON PERDIS
The Refections eye colour is a breathtaking customised blend that contains iridescent pearls to provide unparalleled colour purity, brightness, sparkle and impact. This long wearing shadow will not only remain water resistant and dreamily snug, it will also refuse to smudge or transfer. The ingenious elastic formula ensures a marshmallow soft cushion sensation upon application while remaining paragon, oil and fragrance free. www.napoleonperdis.com
ROCK CANDY STUDDED KISS LIPSTICK SET BY KAT VON D
Meet a new, super-limited set of Katâ€™s iconic Studded Kiss Lipsticks in first-ever shade-matched casing! This exclusive collection of six minis features brand new, ultra-bright shades with fullcoverage, super-saturated color and one-swipe payoff. The shade range includes Zero, a dove gray, Ozzy, an ultra-violet, Roxy, a bright grape, Crush, a romantic magenta, Babe, a cotton candypink, and Ziggy, a neon pink.
verb 1 develop gradually: [no object] : the company has evolved into a global brand | the Gothic style evolved from the Romanesque | [with object] : each business must evolve its own way of working.
What was once Adam&Eve has now grown and become Jax Wax Australia
Indulging the globe with superior Australian wax products For more information call 03 5943 2422 or visit
Adam & Eve Wax evolves to...
After 17 years using the trademark Adam & Eve, Jax Wax is launching a new name, Jax Wax Australia, to better reflect the global nature of its depilatory business. Tina and Geoff Copland, the owners of Adam & Eve Wax have been involved in the manufacture of quality wax products for 30 years. Since the launch of their revolutionary Adam & Eve beaded hot waxes at the Sydney Beauty Expo in August 2003 the company has grown to be major suppliers of wax to the Beauty and Spa Industry worldwide. Their products are available on every continent and further expansion is planned. As a proud 100% Australian owned company that manufactures all its products in Australia, time has come for Adam & Eve Wax to rebrand. Currently, Jax Wax depilatory products are sold under two different trade names, Adam and Eve Wax and Meticulous. The new name Jax Wax Australia will unite these two brands under one banner with a primary focus on the firm’s unique Australian characteristics. Tina Copland said the company chose to use Jax Wax Australia for both brands as “we didn’t want to give the impression 62
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that one brand is preferred over the other”. From our countless trips overseas we know that Australian products are highly regarded as being of excellent quality, having superior ingredients and ecologically aware. With an emphasis on these three factors combined with the high standards our customers expect from Jax Wax, I am excited with the next phase for the Company”. The new Jax Wax Australia logo is remaining true to Adam & Eve Wax history with the new branding still featuring their familiar apple as a core to the new image. “This will confirm to our customers that our products may look a little different but we are remaining true to our heritage and the values and history behind the brand. We are aiming to emphasise the fundamental values of the range and improve elements, making the products more universal”, Tina said.
and using Adam & Eve Wax the rebrand to Jax Wax Australia will be a smooth transformation with just the logo changing on all the packaging. Rosie Hopgood, National Sales and Marketing Manager for Jax Wax, says “the rebrand has been very well received across all sectors of the business. Our customers are embracing the name change and are excited about the direction the company is taking not only in Australia but globally.”
The new brand will begin to appear on our distributors shelves and in salons over the next months. For distributors and salons stocking
Over the next few months Jax Wax Australia will we be reviewing their product range with aim at introducing matching hot wax and strip waxes. The review process will include streamlining their current range to better reflect the global reach of the business allowing for climate and cultural diversities which face an international company.
How does the skin’s PH
AFFECT A SPRAY TAN?
With winter here, the colder weather can wreck havoc on your skin. It is not only the skin on your face that is easily affected, but all over your body can feel the effects from longer and hotter showers, heaters, cold wind and an overall lack of hydration and moisture. When the skin does not have a sufficient level of hydration the PH level can quickly become impaired, weakened and damaged. This can result in various skin conditions and can affect a flawless finish to the spray tan. Clear indications of an unbalanced PH level is dehydration, sensitivity, inflammation, redness, irritations or acne. Potential Hydrogen (PH) is a scale to measure the acidity or alkalinity of the skin. This will determine the hydrogen ion concentrate on the skins surface. The PH levels are measured on a scale from 0 – 14. The lower end of the scale represents an acidic level and the higher end indicates an alkaline level. The optimum level is 5.5, however between 4.5 to 6.0 can also contribute to healthy skin. When the PH level becomes unbalanced the skin is more prone to reactions and sensitisations. An unbalanced PH level can also affect the desired spray tan colour 64
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
and may throw unnatural colours on the skin. When the PH level is in balance, the finished application of the tan will be flawless. There are many reasons why the PH level can become unbalanced on the skin, which can include: • Hormones. These can fluctuate daily and can affect the skin, hair and nails. • Stress. This can affect the body in many diverse ways and can easily throw the entire body out of balance. • Medications. When clients are taking medication that affects the skin, the hydration levels and in turn the PH level are impacted. • Products. Skin care that is incorrect for the skin type can affect the barrier function of the skin. Alcohol and fragrances in deodorants and perfumes. These can react with the tanning solution, producing a different desired colour. All over body care with great products is essential for smooth, hydrated skin.
• Diet. A diet high in acidic foods (sugar, processed and refined foods) will affect the overall bodies’ health and ultimately the skin. Opting for a diet higher in alkaline foods such as leafy greens, fruit and vegetables and water can help to neutralise the body and keep the skins PH level in alignment. When the body is alkaline, the blood can absorb more oxygen, aids in digestion and promotes clearer, balanced and healthy skin. To help deliver a flawless spray tan and help your client feel beautiful bronzed, always perform a thorough consultation. Marissa Warren is the founder of Beyond Bronze, a former sun worshiper, whose goal is to help others achieve the perfect tan without the dangerous risks of the sun. www.beyondbronze.com.au
INGRID Metal salon trolley
ASTRID Metal & ash timber look salon trolley
MOLLY Metal pedicure trolley
LUMA LED magnifying lamp with table clamp Pedestal also available
BEAUTY SHOP I MASK BIOMOLECULAR SHEET MASKS BY IMAGE SKINCARE
GODDESS INSTANT TAN
TEA BLENDS FOR SALON BY THE LOOSE LIPS TEA CO
TRAVEL SKIN ESSENTIALS KIT BY ULTRACEUTICALS
The I MASK range is unlike any other sheet mask on the market today. These 4th generation ultra hydrating and anti-aging hydrogel masks were developed to increase the delivery of active ingredients to the skin. Derived from red algae and carob tree, these revolutionary masks are packed with antioxidants, botanicals and amino acids to brighten and hydrate your skin while also reducing fine lines and wrinkles. www.imageskincare.com.au
Each tea blend produced by the Loose Lips Tea Co is hand-blended and hand-packaged from start to finish, using only organic and certified organic ingredients all encased in BPA free, recyclable, Melbourne-made packaging. The Simpliciteas range includes teas such as the Aussie Bush Tea, Raspberry Mint and Rose Blossom Tea to name a few. The Gourmet Specialiteas includes divine blends such as the Buddha Tears, Spicy Festivitea and Tickle Me Licco Mint Tea www.looselipstea.com.au
REGENERATING HAND CREAM BY DR. HAUSCHKA
Regenerating Hand Cream will join the Dr. Hauschka range of Regenerating skin care products, created to support maturing skin. As the skin ages, it loses elasticity, becomes drier and begins to show lines and wrinkles. Because our hands are hard working, washed often, and are out in the elements every day, this is where the early signs of skin ageing often appear. Regenerating Hand Cream has been created to meet the needs of mature hands. www.drhauschka.com.au
There is nothing worse than rushing out the door and realising you forgot to fake tan! Naked Tanâ€™s Instant Tan will become your goto product. A quick 5-minute application time gives you a bronzed Instant tan that will last up to 24 hours, ideal for those last minute nights out with the girls or your Sunday morning brunch. Get your glow on the go with Naked Tanâ€™s Instant Tan every time. www.nakedtan.com.au
Winter chills will have many of us flocking to warmer climates for a sun soaked, relaxing tropical break. Ultraceuticals Travel Skin Essentials sets contain all your essential daily skincare favourites in convenient travel size, presented in a gorgeous silver cosmetics case. Ultraceuticals products combine sophisticated, scientific delivery systems and proven antiageing ingredients such as Vitamin A, Vitamin C and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). Each product is formulated with maximum safety and effectiveness, achieving dramatic results that can actually be seen. www.ultraceuticals.com/au
FINE LINE FACE OIL BY AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES
The Fine Line Face Oil is a rich treatment to diminish the appearance of fine lines and plump up the skin. For a complete ritual, apply the Instant Skin Firming Serum to your face and neck, morning and night after cleansing and toning. Layer the Fine Line Face Oil over the serum, followed by the Rich Repair Eye Cream, concentrating on lined areas for effective firming and deep down nourishment, before applying a moisturising and protective layer of Rich Repair Nourishing Cream. www.aromatherapyassociates.com.au
Medik8’s new Age Defying Facial and Body Oils and Purifying Facial and Body Oils are formulated specifically for medispa use in professional treatments. The new Medik8 oils help to improve skin barrier function while reducing appearance of dry skin and preventing TEWL (trans epidermal water loss), all while providing a sensory experience for clients.The facial oils are applied using Medik8’s signature massage protocol while the Medik8 body oils are formulated using essential lipid match technology, a unique blend of plant oils, rich in essential fatty acids and emollients. www.medik8.com.au
BODYSHOCK PUSH UP BY MESOESTETIC
Hormonal changes, weight fluctuations, pregnancy and breastfeeding, as well as too much exposure to the sun, are all factors that can affect the skin on breasts and buttocks. Both areas are delicate: the skin on our breasts is considerably more fragile and thinner than that of the rest of the body. The buttock area can be further affected by a sedentary lifestyle and is prone to flabbiness. To improve the appearance of both these areas, the mesoestetic Pharma Group, a leading international pharmaceutical company in dermocosmetics and aesthetic medicine, is launching bodyshock push-up, a home firming cream for the breasts and bum. This product represents an expansion of mesoestetic’s figure remodelling line, bodyshock, a formula that is complementary to the professional treatment. The active ingredients for firming, tensing and toning in bodyshock pushup act in synergy with the method employed in the professional treatment to help return firmness and lift to the treated areas. www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au
DISCOVERY PACKS BY DR SPILLER
Dr. Spiller has created a range of Discovery Packs to make it simple for time-poor women to select an appropriate skincare regimen that will electively target their specific skin conditions at any age. Each pack contains a cleanser, toner and exfoliant formulated to treat a specific skin issue, plus a choice of moisturiser, depending on the client’s age. “Young people under 25 should take a passive approach to treating their skin concern,” says Sue. “However, those in the 30+ group will need to start taking an active approach, as their skin requires more targeted support to regenerate or rejuvenate. The Discovery Packs make it so easy to ensure women are giving their skin exactly what it needs, whether they are purchasing it for themselves or as a gift.” www.dr-spiller.com.au
NEW SCANDINAVIAN INSPIRED BEAUTY TROLLEYS BY COMFORTEL A salon staple. A mobile workstation that holds or stores our work essentials. We all need one, and we often don’t put stylish and beauty trolleys in the same sentence. But think again. Comfortel this season introduces their latest designs, that really changes the way we think of our portable work mates. Drawing inspiration from the popular Scandi inspired looks, these trolleys make the boring now a fashionable, show stopping piece we would be happy to store and cart around our essential (and often expensive) equipment. The seamless integration of study frame and easy rolling wheels is a unique feature providing both enhanced stability and a fashionable, modern look for the Beauty industry. With a minimalist aesthetic, curved lines and premium materials of high pace durable metals and timber finishes (suitable for busy salon life) the trolleys will add a wow factor and future proof chic styling to your salon space. www.comfortel.com.au
AGE DEFYING FACIAL AND BODY OILS BY MEDIK8
SPA SUGAR VANILLA BY CND
With decadent notes of dark vanilla, white tea and wild orchid, this system will surround your senses and replenish skin with a nourishing botanical blend of olive oil and raw brown sugar. A range of product to hydrate, exfoliate and moisturise. www.pacificnail.com.au
REVITOSIN VITAMIN A BY DMK
This product works in tandem with our unique approach with Professional Skin Revision treatments. Revitosin paves the way for a firm, youthful, vibrant even skin tone. The results are thanks to the nutrient rich ingredients within the bottle. There are a few nutrients that skin really needs and vitamin A is one of them. Vitamin A works by normalising skin functions, Vitamin A as a topical skin ingredient is capable of reprogramming cellular function, it also stimulates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for developing tissue that keeps skin firm and healthy, in the deep layers of your skin. www.dannemking.com.au
ANTI-WRINKLE CREAM BY DR JW SKINCARE
This revolutionary product targets the effects of advanced aging by softening and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.Combining high potency peptide formula with the natural anti-aging properties of Neroli www.drjw.co
COCO SOAK MATCHA BY SALT BY HENDRIX
All SALT By Hendrix products are Australian (Sydney) made, vegan friendly and produced by hand in small batches using the highest quality premium yet ethically sourced ingredients. For the Salt Body Care, in almost all products, the brand is proud of the ingredients, which are 95% + organic. Matcha baby with organic coconut milk is a detoxifying Matcha tea + moisturising Coconut bath soak like no other. www.saltbyhendrix.com
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C A L L 1 3 0 0 3 6 5 6 8 3 T O O R D E R T O D AY
NAIL IT! By Caroline Morgan
When I think about the world of nails, I am taken back to when it all started. As a young mum I had worked in some pretty cool industries, travelled already across Australia and experience a lot. I always had loved creativity and no matter how many times I said I would love to be an artist, I was always told that it wasn’t a career, it wouldn’t get you anywhere. My year 5 teacher reinforced that by saying I didn’t have a creative bone in my body. As I got older, I would tend to use drawing as my zen zone. Often I would disappear and sketch for hours. At 22 years of age I was expecting my first bubba. Cody was 6 weeks old when I decided I wanted to study nails. It gave me flexibility and the opportunity to be creative also. I studied at Tafe in Orange NSW. Lynette was my teacher and I studied with my sister Jenny and there it all began. 12 years ago. I actually don’t think that is where it all began. in late 2005 whilst visiting my local supplier she handed my a brochure on some training that was coming up with Ez Flow with Viv Simmonds and that is where my career made a complete backflip. I attended the training and instantly was so inspired to take my career to the “next level”. By no choice of my own and thanks to my sister (without my knowledge), I was entered into my first competition and I placed. I remember the day clearly. Disorganised, stressed and without clear thinking I felt a hand on my shoulder and turned around to see a familiar face in a lady named Midge Duggan. I had met Midge earlier at the Ez Flow training I had attended. She asked me if I was ok and if I needed anything. I will never forget that kindness. Fast forward to 2017. I have now been competing for 10 years and actually had the pleasure of working alongside Viv Simmonds and many of my idols. I now have the pleasure of judging with many other ridiculously talented nail technicians from all over the globe, but the one thing I will never forget is the kind gesture from one person to another to help them achieve their goals. I have had many industry leaders who have helped me along my journey, who I felt never have been recognised for their contributions to the progression of the nail industry and I felt there was a gap. There are many competitions which are presented by various individuals all over Australia and New Zealand for competitive techs including Nailympia and now also the INJA has been introduced into Australia thanks to Melanie Crowe. But there is nothing out there to recognise industry leaders for their contributions. For quite some time I had been working on an idea to bring nail techs together. To celebrate the end of the competition circuit and to recognise individuals for their lifetime commitment to the nail artist industry. Hence the birth of the Annual Australian New Zealand Nail Tech Party and the Midge Duggan
Lifetime achievement award. Last year was the first party and from all accounts it was a wonderful event. This year numbers have already doubled making it twice as big as last year. The establishment on George street will be the venue and we have themed this year “bubbles and bling”. Guests will be entertained by Darryl Beaton who has worked on many events such as the ARIA’s and has performed with Jessica Mauboy and Delta Goodrum. The party will be a celebration on the completion of the competition circuit and also a celebration of the recipient of this years award, which will be kept secret until the presentation on the night. Techs can glam up and relax after what is a hectic weekend in the beauty industry calendar. This is an incredible way for techs to relax and network as this year we have some celebrity nail artists in attendance including internationals, Alex Fox, Marian Newman and Naildit’s own Elaine Watson. It really is a celebration and a thank you. It’s a wonderful thing to see so many amazing incredible talented people under one roof enjoying the company of others. I have also Reached out to many techs to use their images annually for marketing of the event which gives upcoming techs the opportunity to share their work and theme each years event. This year we were Lucky to have Images supplied by Alex Freeland, which was the perfect addition to our bubbles and bling theme! It is an exciting and fun event and we hope that more nail techs in the future become involved.
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THE MOVIE THAT IS YOUR LIFE! By Julie Cross
It has been said that at the end we may see our life flash before our eyes. I wonder if it comes in some kind of Movie format. Now that gets you thinking about that whole concept of beginning with the end in mind! And then one day recently I went on a plane trip and watched the movie ‘Red Dog’ and that experience really gave me some lessons that I would love to share. There was a guy sitting next to me on the plane that day that I didn’t know, but he noticed I was watching ‘Red Dog’. He mentioned that he had seen the Movie and then he then started to watch me watching it with interest. For anybody that has seen the movie, well you will know what I mean. In the beginning I laughed, and I have one of those big, turn heads, out loud kind of laugh. I was so into those moments and totally oblivious to those around me. Well, then the movie takes a turn, yep it gets sad, and then I cried. Well I didn’t just do that gentle, keep in together; tears silently roll down your face kind of cry. I did the big snorting, nose running, and throat stinging kind of cry. The one where you have used up all available tissues and serviettes and you are now trying to inconspicuously use the back of your hand or the corner of your collar!! In fact I was even considering using HIS collar and he must have sensed that because he then he gave me a tissue. And then, well I think I did both together, cried and laughed all at once. When the movie finished the gentleman beside looked at me and said, “Well how was that?” I said, “Well what do you think?” He said, “Well, when I heard your amazing big laugh I thought I wonder if she cries as passionately and as loudly as she laughs!” And then he said, “And you sure do!” I think he was as entertained by watching me watch the movie as he was when he first watched the movie. He relived the fun moments through my
laughter and enjoyed me enjoying them, anticipating my reaction to them almost. He then empathised with me through the sad moments, knowing that they were coming up and wondering about my reaction and how I would cope with them. Even offering me a tissue to show his support (or save his collar!) So, I think that perhaps I live my life like I watch, appreciate and get involved in a movie. I live and experience the joy loudly and passionately, the laughter and fun with my partner, friends and family, travel adventures and meeting new people, success and affirmation of my work and the euphoric moments of love and appreciation that comes with having children. But I also feel the pain just as loudly and passionately. The grief that comes with my husband having a stroke and then five years later passing away. The pain that comes with all the moments of missing him being here for my boys. The fear and
vulnerability that is present as I take up the rest of this journey and hoping I am enough. But you see that is living a life and I am not ‘flat lining’ through life and who would truly want that? My troughs of pain, of grief and of sadness or disappointment propel me to the opposite to the peaks of excitement, joy, love, lust, hope and fun. When the pain is there I do it, feel it and allow it to pass, and then when the joy is there I do it, celebrate it and feel it and well.... I roll around in it! Movies, books, people, songs, speakers and entertainers that we love and are passionate about take us on a journey through our emotions, which is why we love them and want more of them. And so does a rich, full, passionate big blockbuster kind of life and I think that is the kind of life I am living and that is the kind of life I want to live! You can’t do the Ying without the Yang, life without death, happiness without sadness, you need bad times to appreciate the good times, you need to be vulnerable sometimes to understand and know courage, and if you want the tide to come in, then it needs to go out! If you want a summer then we need to do a winter. If you want to exercise resilience then you need to fall down to know how to get back up. So, don’t be afraid to do your pain, don’t be afraid to show it and live it. It is as much as who you are as the joy and laughter. If we were all honest we would admit that we are not as interested in reading a book or listening to somebody who ‘pretends’ it is always perfect. The adversity and the triumph the laughter with the tears is what makes it all so entertaining, so feeling and so, so ALIVE! So, go live your life happy, sad, loud and proud but most of all live it truthfully. And sometimes, like that stranger on a plane watched me on my journey through that movie, we
have to sit by and watch our partners, friends and children go through their journey. We can’t stop them from experiencing it or save them from the emotional reaction. This man on the plane didn’t say to me just before the movie got sad that I should turn it off now, because he knew that that added to the experience of the story, and even if he had suggested I turn it off I wouldn’t have. And so it is with the people around us, especially, with our children, we love to watch them as they move through what we know to be happy, joyful moments and then at times we want to save them, fast forward through some bits to avoid the challenging and sad moments. But we can’t and really we shouldn’t. Let’s just be there and hand them that tissue or give them our collar, because surely in the end we want them to lead a big full Blockbuster kind of life! After the movie I was a little emotionally exhausted, but I was warm, I was happy and I was fulfilled and I was so glad I had seen it, lived it, felt it and enjoyed it and I would enthusiastically recommend that movie to everybody. Yep, I want to live and feel the full length and breadth of my life, I want the whole shebang so that when I get to the end and I see my life flash before your eyes, well I want to have lived the kind of life that I am going to love watching back! And that means I will have to do all of the emotions that come with that. Go live and love your Blockbuster kind of life.... and what would it be called I wonder... Perhaps for me it would be ... “The Sparkle Show!” If my life was a movie I would want it to be a BLOCKBUSTER and I would want to have a starring role!
EMPLOYMENT RELATIONS for the Beauty Industry By Leanne Rogers
Cooee is a leading employment relations law firm, providing services for small to medium businesses across Australia. They provide flexible packages that enable employers to spend more time on the tools and less time worrying about the complex administrative requirements of the Fair Work scheme. With a team of in-house lawyers, HR experts and savvy business specialists, Cooee can help. Account Executive Leanne Rogers has a background in law, marketing and teaching. Her role at Cooee is to facilitate affiliate partnerships and ensure that clients are educated and engaged around their obligations as an employer. Leanne recently spoke at the Ultraderm Salon Partner Conference on the Gold Coast, and has shared some of her key takeaways with Beauty Biz Magazine below… As an employer in Australia, you are governed by over 12 pieces of legislation, 10 regulatory bodies, and potentially one of 122 modern awards. That means, in addition to navigating the Fair Work Act 2009, state-based Workplace Health and Safety Acts and Regulations and a wealth of other laws, your business may be 74
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subject to industry-specific requirements. For those with salons, the relevant applicable award is likely to be the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010. If you own a salon, here are some of Cooee’s key tips for employment relations success:-
1. UNDERSTAND THE AWARD CLASSIFICATIONS
• There are six classification levels under the award, providing minimum requirements for staff in different roles. • An employee’s award classification is based on the role that they are performing and also subject to criteria such as their qualifications
or experience. • It is critical to correctly classify an employee based on this criteria, in order to avoid an underpayment claim.
2. CHECK THE FREQUENCY OF YOUR PAY CYCLE
• The Award provides for payment on a weekly or fortnightly basis.
3. KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FULL TIME, PART TIME AND CASUAL WORKERS
• Full-time workers are engaged to work an average of 38 hours per week. They may work reasonable additional hours – if provided for in the employment contract. Anything above ‘reasonable’ is considered overtime and should be paid accordingly. • Under a full-time arrangement, employees are entitled to 4 weeks’ annual leave and 10 days of personal/carer’s leave for every 12 months of service. This leave accrues weekly and rolls over year to year if unused. • Part-time workers are engaged to work a fixed number of hours per week, less than the 38 hours of a full-timer. • The hours and days of work should be agreed, so that the employee can reasonably predict their days and shifts each week. The shifts cannot be ‘flexible’ or variable and must be a minimum of three (3) hours in length. • The guaranteed hours may be exceeded, however overtime payments would apply. • Part-timers are entitled to a proportionate amount of leave entitlements, based on the agreed hours of work. This also accrues. • Casual employment is a more flexible arrangement. Workers are not guaranteed ongoing work or regular hours, with shifts rostered on an ‘as needed’ basis. • They are not entitled to annual or personal/ carer’s leave, but receive a loading to make up for this. They may still be entitled to compassionate leave, but will not be paid for this.
• Casual employees are entitled to a minimum daily engagement of at least 3 hours. Where you only require such employees to work for a shorter period, you can send them home but will need to pay them for at least 3 hours. • Be aware that if your casual staff become ‘regular and systematic’, with a reasonable expectation of ongoing employment, they may be deemed permanent and therefore entitled to permanent employee entitlements, such as access to unfair dismissal and parental leave.
4. BE AWARE OF YOUR OVERTIME OBLIGATIONS
• Overtime applies to all additional hours worked above ordinary hours. This is paid at a rate of time and a half for the first three additional hours, and double time for any hours after that. • Alternatively, an employee and employer may agree to the employee taking time off instead of being paid for a particular amount of overtime that has been worked by the employee. • The period of time off that an employee is entitled to take is equivalent to the overtime payment that would have been made. • Recent changes to the award provide that employees must take time off in lieu within 6 months after the overtime is worked. • Employers may also agree to pay their employee an all-inclusive rate for all hours worked, however this rate needs to be at least equal to or higher than the amount that the employee would be entitled to under the Award.
5. IS THE MINIMUM RATE SPECIFIED IN THE AWARD ENOUGH TO PREVENT AN UNDERPAYMENT?
• No. Permanent employees are also entitled to any relevant allowances, penalty rates, loadings or overtime as specified in the Award. • These have not been impacted by the recently
publicised Fair Work penalty rate changes.
6. CAN YOU ENGAGE INDEPENDENT CONTRACTORS OR PARTICIPATE IN ‘RENT A CHAIR’ ARRANGEMENTS?
• Independent contractors are usually engaged to perform non-core competencies, such as marketing or accounting functions. • Key indicators include taking on commercial risk and insurance and superannuation obligations as applicable. • Although there is no single definitive factor, behaviour such as wearing a uniform, representing oneself as an employee and/or the expectation of ongoing work are indicative of an employment relationship and may attract liability under the Fair Work’s sham contracting provisions. • A ‘Rent A Chair’ arrangement involves an agreement where a separate business owner occupies space in another salon, in order to service their own clients. • They will usually provide rental payments and their income will be split between the service provider and salon owner as agreed under a contract. • A proper ‘Rent A Chair’ arrangement involves a genuine Independent Contractor, with their own ABN and tax, super and insurance responsibilities.
SO WHY SHOULD YOU CARE?
As a salon owner, time is a valuable resource. For every hour you spend with clients, you’re generating income. However, for every hour you spend doing administrative work (including taking care of your employees), there’s an opportunity cost. Not only are you participating in a task that is income-neutral, you’ve also lost an hour you could have spent with clients. Confused? Call Cooee on (02) 8459 7093 or email Leanne: firstname.lastname@example.org
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
11 WAYS BUSINESS OWNERS COULD Get Better Financial Advice By Sue Hirst
The accounting profession has traditionally focused attention on the tax and compliance side of business. Some accountants are offering day to day financial management advice, but they are few and far between. Most practising accountants have never worked in a commercial situation i.e. been responsible for the profitability and cash flow management for a business (apart from their own), so how well does that equip them to give advice (in ‘plain English’) to SMEs? What SMEs need is someone who can really roll their sleeves up and get into the nitty gritty with them. When I say nitty gritty I mean:
Working out the true cost of a product/ service, so the business owner knows what price to charge to ensure a profit, how much room for manoeuvre on discounting and competitive pricing.
Understanding all the overheads of a business and including them in a budget, so they can be monitored monthly to ensure they don’t get out of hand and eat up all the profits.
Working out the best finance options for a business. Every business is different and therefore has different finance needs. Some have equipment that can be leased or hired, some have high profit margins and therefore can absorb high finance costs, whereas some have low margins and need to be very careful that finance costs don’t eat up all their profit.
Driving management of the internal factors Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
affecting cash flow management e.g. Accounts Receivables, Accounts Payables, Stock/WIP, Taxes, Loans etc.
Setting KPIs (both leading and lagging) to ensure targets are met. For example if a business owner knows their sales conversion rate is say 50%, they need to ensure they are generating twice the number of sales leads to achieve their sales target.
Ensuring SME owners can read and understand the financial reports and what story they are telling about the performance of their business. For example looking at just dollar results is not as useful as looking at reports containing percentages. Percentages make it easier to see how things are going relative to the sales figure, which may be going up and down each month.
7. Helping SMEs to analyse feasibility of new
ideas. What may sound like a fantastic opportunity, may not create much extra profit on the bottom line if not structured and priced right.
8. Helping SMEs to systemise their business,
so they can occasionally take leave from it and create more business value by making it more easily transferrable to new owners.
Helping SME owners to pay themselves properly and structuring pay/dividends, so they are sustainable for the business and tax effective.
Acting as a ‘sounding board’ and trusted advisor to listen and answer any questions a business owner has about the financial impact of decisions.
11. Providing all of the above in a cost effective way and ensuring a high ‘value proposition’ to SMEs so the benefit they gain far outweighs the cost of the service provided.
If the above sounds like you or you’d like someone like this and want to learn more about high quality financial advice visit www.CFOonCall.com.au
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‘BUILDING A PROFITABLE BUSINESS’
By Narelle Lancaster
Times are tough they say for small business owners. Possibly rarely tougher. But just before you close the doors and throw in the towel know there are people making money in our industry and money is there to be had. You just have to know how. MYTH 1: OPEN IT AND THEY WILL COME
Before I worked in marketing I spent a few years working in salons and spas. One of my favourite myths is the open a spa and people will flock to your door and pay big money. You could make in a day what an average salon would clear in a week. And here I was, an hour out of Melbourne managing a luxury spa. The fit out was meticulous, relaxation room with a roaring fire and expensive, exclusive products and we were seriously flat out on weekends. Weekends. That was the only time we were busy. We would spend the rest of the week refolding towels in the cupboard, sitting in the empty lounge and waiting for the phone to ring. Tip #1 – Always research viability and locality of any business potential before you jump in.
MYTH 2: ALL I NEED IS SOME SOCIAL MEDIA
Social media is a great tool for communication. Between people. Social media is proving not so hot for companies and business. In the digital world most people don’t want ads popping up in their feed or care about your latest “announcement”. Have a look next time at a beauty brand you follow online. How many ‘likes’ or comments does it get? Yeah, thought so. Not so many. Sometimes social media can be useful to you (if you have the time to get it right – who does?) but what would be better would be a realization that a marketing expert who can prove they get results could give you a much better outcome which will lead to increased sales, awareness and profits. Salons should be putting aside 5-7% of turnover to reinvest in to marketing. Leading salons do at least this – that’s why they are leading! Tip #2 – See marketing as an investment and commit to getting some help with yours.
MYTH 3: IF I LOOK AFTER PEOPLE THEY WILL COME BACK
Sometimes people will come to you, sometimes they won’t. Sometimes they will stop coming and you’ll never know why. Don’t fall complacent with your customers. All customers need to be viable. I’ll never forget the time I was consulting to a 78
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salon in Hawthorn and the kind hearted owner who had few customers and was very frustrated and drained by her business used to go out and buy her clients a latte out of her own pocket at the café next door. She would do this for almost every client – she thought she was getting their loyalty! C’mon. She was desperate and they were willing to take advantage. Tip #3 – You will win and lose clients regardless but happy staff, a great client experience and willingness to act on feedback will take you a long way.
MYTH 4: BE EVERYTHING TO EVERY ONE Be the best product pusher/prescriber you can be! Be the best therapist you can be! You know what? That isn’t really possible. Instead what are you best at? I think back to Prue who was a very good seller and terrible therapist – she made her bonus regularly but never got a rebook and she didn’t care. Money was what mattered to Prue. Then there was Nadine who was a fabulous therapist but hated the selling bit at the end of every treatment. It made her feel awkward and
most times clients wouldn’t buy anything but they would seek her out for treatments and exclusively want her every time. How do you manage a Prue and Nadine? You play to their strengths. Put Prue on finalizing sales, voucher and phone selling and reception bookings. Get Nadine to be rebooked and earning her bonus though treatments – she prefers this and clients want her. That way the ‘Prues’ and the ‘Nadines’ of the beauty world are a win-win and are happy, which in turn builds your overall sales, brand, customer experience and profits. Tip #4 – Realize the power, motivation and empowerment of people when you let the reigns go a little. Look forward to the rewards when you give them their opportunity. Narelle Lancaster is a Certified Practicing Marketer and Fellow of the Australian Marketing Institute, a lecturer in advertising at RMIT, an independent researcher and Director of MKTG – a marketing consulting agency. She also holds a beautician diploma and nearly failed her nails exam.
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Five sure-fire steps to beat your
FRET-ABOUT-DEBT MINDSET By Marie Drever
We’ve all been there. What salon owner hasn’t had debt? Debt that has you burying your head in the sand and pretending it doesn’t exist. It might feel like a nightmare, but the struggle is real.
Are you drowning in bills? Wishing it would all just disappear on its own? It won’t! It’s up to you to start right now on a plan to pay it down. To help you, here are my five sure-fire steps to clearing your dreaded debt … once and for all!
1. START WITH THE FACTS
You need to know what you’re dealing with, your 80
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numbers – what’s coming in and what’s going out. What can you achieve right now in your current situation? What disposable in-come do you have available to put towards your pay-itoff plan? Know the facts before you do anything else. As I tell my coaching clients: It’s time to tip the contents out of your handbag and onto the table so you can really see what’s happening.
If you overcommit and pay off big lump sums off your debt, you risk putting your salon business under more financial pressure. If you can’t sustain it, you’ll max out your credit card again when the other bills keep rolling on in. Why set yourself up for failure? You’re much better to know what’s possible and create a plan you can see through to the end.
expenses. When additional debts crop up, break them into bite-sized pieces and set a goal date to pay them off. Finally, set alerts on your phone to remind you to prioritise and analyse your budget progress weekly, monthly, quarterly and annually.
4. BE ACCOUNTABLE
Who’s keeping you accountable for your break-free-of-debt plan? Who’s going to check in on you and give you a nudge when you’re struggling? No one said it would be easy, but having someone asking “How’s it going?” can really help. It needs to be someone who you can trust to call you out on your BS excuses. For my coaching clients, that person is me. And for me, when I have a goal to achieve whether it’s to work with a certain number of clients, to present on stage or even to lose those extra few kilos that seem to find you in winter, I share my plans with someone I trust. It’s easier to let yourself down than that other someone.
5. THINK BEYOND SO HISTORY DOESN’T REPEAT
What’s your big picture? When speaking to my coaching clients on this topic, I always stretch their thinking beyond the point of when the debt’s gone. There’s nothing better than having a clear vision of what a debt-free you feels like. Write a list of your ‘definition of done’. Read this to yourself and sense what it will be like to no longer fret about debt: • I only order what I need in regards to stock. No dust gathered. • I don’t use credit to pay for bills, food, clothes, botox, ANYTHING! • I have a buffer in my account equal to at least one week’s turnover. • I don’t let large purchases damage my account. • I plan for the unexpected. No nasty surprises. Maintain true change by forming healthy habits. Sure, change moves you beyond your comfort zone, but it will never be as uncomfortable as being stuck in debt.
2. MAKE A PLAN AND KEEP IT REAL
Don’t kid yourself. You need to be absolutely realistic about how much you can devote on a regular basis to paying down your debt. And you must set a timeframe. Make a list of what you owe, the bills that are weighing you down and any outstanding longterm or short-term accounts. Then: • Set do-able goals to pay back these amounts • Identify weekly money coming in and going out • Consider what you have committed or promised to pay back with creditors or suppliers • Stop impulse buying; learn self control and educate yourself about money to avoid looping back into the debt spiral (refer Step 5) No one’s born with money management skills. It’s like learning to drive a car or mastering a musical instrument. When you don’t know, you
can feel frustrated and disappointed in your-self. But when you put intent towards learning, you can make progress fast. It’s never too late.
Every day, ask yourself this: What got me in debt in the first place? What do I need to do to prevent it ever happening again?
3. BUDGET IT, TRACK IT, PAY IT OFF
As Suze Orman says, “Bad debt is sacrificing your future day NEEDS for your present day DESIRES”.
Identify your salon’s weekly income and plan a budget knowing your incomings and outgoings. Budget is not a dirty word. It’s a roadmap, a plan for your spending that allows you to make smart choices with your money. Our “tap + go” society makes it far too easy to spend hun-dreds of dollars without thinking about it. A budget can keep you on the path. To prepare your salon budget, total your annual salon costs and divide by 52 to give you a weekly figure. Then review your weekly spending to track how you’re doing. Consider hav-ing a conversation with your landlord about paying rent weekly instead of monthly. Look into making similar arrangements for power and phone
By putting good habits in place you’ll never have to fret about debt again. Marie is a specialist ZING salon coach. For more salon wisdom, email ZING at firstname.lastname@example.org , visit the website, find video tips on YouTube or read ZING leader Lisa Conway’s 3 books - The Naked Salon: an essential guide to time, team and money for salon owners , Your Salon Team: the salon owner’s guide to finding, motivating and keep-ing great staff and the latest release Your Salon Retail: the no-nonsense, nohype guide to kick-arse retail in your salon business. www.zingcoach.com Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
THE P’S OF BUSINESS PART 3 By Daniel Dickson
In the last “P’s of business” article, I touched on the important P of People. This section will also be focused on people but this time it’s about you - if you are the Primary leader (PL).
It is extremely important in business to first understand why we are in business and to know our Purpose which we will touch on this another time, but for now, I want to start a dialog with you about why you decided to be the PL of your business. I speak almost daily to an accidental business owner. The ones who start as a sole trader and then became too busy and stressed so they employed their first staff member to ease their burden – NOT. I briefly touched on a better way to recruit the “right” staff member in the last article, however, I’m now talking to the “old you” who may have walked in these shoe’s and shared a similar experience of employing people yet the stress of your business challenges remained. A common example I hear is of PL’s hiring the right person in the wrong way. Consider this example; you employ your first person because you’re too busy and you don’t want to turn customers away - especially as you believe your property has the ability to run more rooms than you could handle alone. You employ the first decent person to reply to your ad that tells you that they loved college and have always wanted to work in skin therapy and you are excited 82
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 4
because you think you will be set free to grow the business and get away from all the things and services you don’t love. The problem is, they, like you, love working in skin therapy and they grow dissatisfied by only working in the services that you no longer want to do and feel like they have no career or personal development opportunities. Even if your intentions were to groom the staff member to perform skin treatments on your clients and to free you up more time to work on the business - you didn’t have time to train them initially as you were continuing to work directly in the rooms. If you are going to realise your potential as the PL, when recruiting the right person – be sure to be prepared for them. Create a training plan that allows them to perform all the treatments and deliver quality services in your business’s way (which is your way). You need be clear in your decisions in your business and from the first person you employ, you must look like you are “in business” with your Policies and Procedures (2 very important P’s). This includes your training program, HR handbook and ideally an outline of your Purpose of why you started in business. Your Purpose is basically your high level statement of Why you do what you do. It is
very powerful to share this with your team, as this is the journey that you are welcoming them on. It describes what you want them to be enthusiastic and passionate about and it is why you want them to come to work – to join in your purpose. If you are clear about your Purpose and values your recruitment process becomes focused to attract people that align with your journey and ambitions. The PL role is to be unwavering on decisions made in the business, be true to your path and purpose and continually align your business decisions, promotions, values and staff to ensure you stay heading in the right direction. If any of this resonates with you, pour a glass of your favourite potion and on one page write a list of all the challenges you face in business. Then look at WHY (that beautiful three letter word that can solve so many issues) these issues are in your business. Most often it is because the Primary Leader has not dealt with a key decision or have avoided conversations because they were unclear or uncomfortable. Either way, the feeling or issue in the business will stay there until the PL deals with it. www.dannemking.com.au
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Beauty Biz provides comprehensive information to the Beauty Industry on a regular basis. It is written for today’s salon and spa owners and...
Published on Aug 17, 2017
Beauty Biz provides comprehensive information to the Beauty Industry on a regular basis. It is written for today’s salon and spa owners and...