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Page 1

Year 9 Issue 1


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CONTENTS www.andisclippers.com.au

ON THE COVER

22 Chair Tales – Andis

REGULARS

06 Editors Letter 44 New Gear 54 A Letter To My Younger Self

FEATURE

08 A Maestro of Men’s Hair 12 Keeping up with Jürgen 14-16 On the World Stage 18-20 A Free Spirit

EVENTS

10 Australian Modern Barber Awards

PROFILE

26-28 Barber on a Mission 30 When Barbering is in the DNA 32 A Gentleman and a Scholar 34 Inside some of the World’s Best Luxury Barbershops

COLLECTIONS

36-37 Hybrid By Desmond Murray 38-39 RaW By Andrea Giles & Terri Kay 40-41 Mad Max By Robert Braid 42-43 Boys By Anthony Osborne & Royston Blythe

COVER 12 26

HEALTH

46 Man! I’m Losing it 48 You Can’t Treat Beards Like You Treat Hair

BUSINESS

50 Simple Effective Steps to Map Our Your Goals For 2020 By Julie Piantadosi 52 Customer Service By Rex Silver

40

BLOG SPOT

56 Turning A New Page & Learning with Collette Saunders 57 Continuous Development & Training with Don De Sanctis 58 Not Just Recycling with Paul Frasca

52


BARBER SHOP PUBLISHER

Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au

EDITOR

Rex Silver rex@mochapublishing.com.au

ADVERTISING MANAGER

editor’s letter

Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au

ADMINISTRATION

Jess Richmond jess@mochapublishing.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS Rex Silver Dr Ben De Campo Julie Piantadosi Collette Saunders Don De Sanctis Paul Frasca

OFFICE

PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 F: 07 5580 5166 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au

DISTRIBUTION

Australia Post - Print Post 100005498

PRINTING APN

It’s on!! By the time you read this, entries will be open for the very first Australian Modern Barber Awards (AMBA). If you are eligible for a category, we encourage you to enter as it’s going to be epic! One of the first things you will hear Linda Woodhead, owner of the AMBA’s, MOCHA Publishing (publishers of BarberShop), the Australian Hair Industry Awards and Australian Beauty Industry Awards, say in her opening address, is her thanks but also her recognition to all entrants for “putting themselves out there!” That resonated and stayed with me first time I sat in the audience as a finalist at the AHIA’s, proud and anxious to hear the winners being announced. It resonated again the other day whilst listening to Triple J when Luke Boerdam of Violent Soho was describing, dropping his new album, it was like tearing a little piece of him-self off and putting it out there for everyone to judge. Musicians, Barbers and Creatives alike all feel the same. It’s daunting, it’s liberating, it’s a million emotions and I want you all to feel it. ENTER!! Soak up those waves of encouragement and inspiration from the amazing Barber Stories in the pages of this issue as we cover Artists in our field from Coolangatta to Chicago and from Maroubra Sydney to Milton Keynes London.

PUBLISHED BY

Welcome to my second effort as Editor, welcome to BarberShop Year 9 Issue 1.

PUBLISHERS OF

I’m not going to bang on about what’s been happening in Australia and the World since last issue, but I will recognise the toll it’s taken on our psyche as a nation and personally as individuals, overwhelmed by the constant bombardment of horrific vision and news on our screens before us.

mocha publishing

HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz and Barber Shop

Barber Shop is published four times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Barber Shop does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Barber Shop are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2020 mocha publishing All rights reserved.

New Year, New Decade, let’s press RESET and jump in. Let’s stay positive; our industry is built on the back of strong people and the men and boys in our communities come to us to heal, talk and feel better with our help… as I always say,as Barbers, it’s in our DNA to do our part with that. All Barbers featured this issue give truly inspiring stories and our International Correspondents, all multi-award-winning Barbers, lend a motivating piece of advice in each of their articles for our young barbers on entering what for some may be their first photographic collections in the AMBA’s.

Over the years I’ve heard many successful people say, “If you want to be successful, surround yourself with successful people, it’s infectious.” We have 60 pages of success right here, get amongst it and connect with your new extended family, everyone’s socials are there waiting for you all to interact and make new friends. It’s what we love about Barbering we share the love and learn and grow together. They wouldn’t all insist I tag the end of each piece with their socials handles and details if they didn’t want you to reach out. Get your sticky notes out you’re going to want to revisit a lot of the pieces here. My predecessor, Lance Liufau, shares a truly open moment with us, Collette Saunders some beautiful sentiments and words that make your sit with your back upright with go get ‘em attitude. Ben and Don, great Blogs again and we meet Robert Braid our UK Correspondent who is next level creative. We also hear from Nieves Almaraz from the US and his North American Men’s Hair Stylist of The Year Finalist Nomination. Jügen Niederl our man in the EU shares an amazing collection, Australian Barber Greg Whatling is here, we talk hair loss with those experts, there’s a little business philosophy on customer service, new gear and more.. it’s all here. Enjoy,

Rex Silver Rex Silver Editor – Barbershop Magazine Follow me @rex.a.c.silver Share and tag us on Instagram @barbershopmag to get your work, shops and images shared. And if you have an amazing story to share, please email me: rex@maochapublishing.com.au


A brand new initiative giving men’s hairdressers and barbers a platform to showcase their creative and business skills

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EW

TO

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20 20

CATEGORIES Photographic and Submission Australian Modern Barber of the Year Australian Modern Barber Business of the Year PHOTOGRAPHIC ONLY Best Men’s Collection Classic Best Men’s Collection Freestyle Best Team Collection Best Men’s Collection Junior BUSINESS CATEGORIES Best Director/Owner of the Year Best Customer Care Best Men’s Educator of the Year Best Barbershop Design of the Year NOMINATED CATEGORY Special Recognition

AMBA Clean Skin Professional Product Awards Categories HAIR CARE - Best Shampoo and Conditioner pair or 2-in-1 product HAIR STYLE - Best Styling Product. Entries can include:- Styling Wax, Cream or Paste BEARD CARE - Best Beard Care Product. Entries can include:- Oil, Wax, Cream or Paste OPEN FOR ENTRY 21st February 2020

FINALISTS ANNOUNCED 1st August 2020

PRODUCT DEADLINE 18th May 2020 ENTRY DEADLINE 22nd June 2020

AWARDS NIGHT 8th November 2020 Plaza Theatre, Melbourne

BARBER SHOP WWW.AUSTRALIANMODERNBARBERAWARDS.COM.AU

20


A Maestro of Men’s Hair

Kerry Hayden has four decades of experience in the hairdressing industry specialising in male grooming. She is a seasoned salon stylist, working as the resident grooming specialist at London’s AthertonCox; an educator, offering bespoke in-salon training across the UK, while sharing her expertise both through Wella Professionas and, imminently, as an educator at the soon-to-be launched AthertonCox Academy. She is also an experienced session stylist, assisting session icon Guido Palau on numerous men’s catwalk shows over the past 15 years. Julie Bellinger-Gibb caught up with Kerry on behalf of Barbershop Magazine, the day after she arrived back in the UK from a whirlwind two weeks working at Men’s Fashion Weeks in Milan and Paris.

TELL US WHAT ITS REALLY LIKE TO WORK AT A MAJOR MEN’S FASHION WEEK?

Kerry Hayden Alexander McQueen auturm/ winter 18 in Paris with Guido Palau

It’s busy! As I stepped off the plane in Milan, I went straight into a test for the first show. There is always a test, which can happen anything from one day to a week before the actual show. The test normally takes place at the head office of the designer. It’s an incredibly intense atmosphere, with everyone who works for the designer running around getting everything ready. If we know there will be a lot of cutting involved, I will be included on the test. The test team is normally made up of no more than five members of the core team, depending on whose expertise is most relevant, but will always include my boss, and team director, Guido Palau. There will also be a make-up team and anything from between two to six models. The designer will also be present. Guido will have had a conversation with the designer who will have shown him part of the collection and talked about the feel and overall concept. Once Guido is prepped he will prep us, and then we start creating hair looks as close to the brief as possible. The test is quite a fluid process as designers can change their mind. But the good thing about the test is that it airs everything, so that by the time we get to the show itself, we are pretty much 100% sure it won’t change again.

HOW INTENSE AN EXPERIENCE IS IT TO WORK ON THE SHOWS?

The team can work on just one or up to three shows a day. Three shows in a day is very stressful. The first show will usually start at about 9am and we have to be there four hours in advance, so it’s an early start. I’m often up at around 4.30am. When we arrive at the show, the first thing we do is go backstage. Security is very tight and we are all issued with wrist bands or lanyards that give us access to the area where the clothes are. Nothing can get out to the public before the show. The models that were at the test will be backstage with the cuts done, although if there is technical work to do, such as finger waves, or anything intricate like that then that work will have to be done again. This gives the rest of the team the chance to see what needs to be done.

WHAT MAKES THE STRESS WORTH IT?

I love the end results. All the stress is forgotten when you see the models in the first line-up with the clothes, hair and make-up all done, you just think “wow!”

DO YOU GET TO SEE ANY OF THE CATWALK SHOWS YOU HAVE WORKED ON?

I hardly ever get to see the actual show. In fifteen years of working on fashion shows I think I’ve seen one. Most models will have at least one change during a show. So, for example, if the model is wearing a roll-neck, we need to be on hand with a silk scarf over the hair as the jumper is removed, and once they have been dressed in the new outfit


“It’s all about the cut — real precision.” there may be adjustments needed to the hair, so I have to remain backstage.

FROM YOUR SESSION CAREER, DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE SHOW? Raf simons auturm/winter 20/21 in Paris with Guido Palau Dolce and Gabbana spring/summer 19 in Milan with Guido Palau

Versace - autumn/winter 18 in Milan with Guido Palau Kerry Hayden

My favourite show to work on ever was for Alexander McQueen. It was not a normal catwalk show with models walking up and down a white runway. It was a full-on creative performance. You knew you were in his world. He was an historian. One of his last collections was called bone collector, it featured a lot of knitwear and the models hair and make-up were designed to make them look corpse-like. It was inspired by deep sea fisherman who used to drown and get washed up onto shore. The only way to identify many of these men was through their knitwear. There was always a story with McQueen.

HOW DOES SESSION WORK LIKE THIS FIT IN WITH YOUR ROLE IN THE SALON AND AS AN EDUCATOR?

I like the balance all three elements of my job give me. I learn from doing the shows. They are a good barometer of what is coming hairwise. The session work feeds through to my role in the salon and as an educator. If I am teaching a ‘catwalk to client’ course, for example, it helps that I am talking from experience – often very recent experience.

IS IT HARD TO JUGGLE SESSION AND SALON WORK?

I have very understanding and supportive bosses who know I will be away for two weeks in January and June, but I make sure I work around it so my clients are not adversely affected. I never cancel a client to do the session work. The need to juggle commitments is becoming more of a challenge as designers introduce shows outside of the major fashion weeks, and men are increasingly featured in the women’s shows.

DO CLIENTS LIKE THE FACT THAT YOU WORK AT MAJOR FASHION SHOWS?

Clients definitely get caught up in the buzz around the shows when

I return. They want to hear about the trends. Men today are much more up for change. I always do a thorough consultation and talk about ways we can make changes, even if it’s just a small tweak, or introducing a bit of colour. My work at the shows can be a great way of introducing the subject of change to the consultation.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR ROLE WITHIN THE NEW ATHERTONCOX ACADEMY

I will be one of the educators for the new AthertonCox Academy, taking two courses, Classic Man and Catwalk to Client. The Classic Man course covers all the bases of men’s hair cutting, beginning with an analysis of head shape and hair type before moving on to live demos of techniques, including square classic layering, scissor-over-comb finishes and clipper work. Catwalk to Client is a one-day course that takes current catwalk hair trends and makes them relevant to the salon hairdresser and their clients. We’re all very excited about the Academy and sharing our passion and experience with hairdressers from all over the globe

WHY DO YOU LOVE WORKING WITH MEN’S HAIR?

It’s all about the cut — real precision. When you cut women’s hair you can blow dry out the shape. With a man, you have to cut the shape in. It’s the need for precision that I enjoy.

ANY MEN’S HAIR TREND PREDICTIONS FOR THE NEXT YEAR?

At this year’s shows I was cutting a lot of short, sharp fringes. In general, we are still seeing a lot of close cuts – fades aren’t going anywhere for a while. We will also still see a lot of facial hair, but it will be very groomed, even the longer, fuller beards will be beautifully groomed and shaped. The British male is now so confident with how he looks, it’s not just about following trends, his hair can be long or short, they know how to put the whole package together and create their own individual look. And we are there to help them achieve this. All fashion week backstage images by Guido Palau


20 20 The AMBA (AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER AWARDS) will provide the Australian Barber and Men’s hairdressing Industry a much needed and often requested benchmark of excellence and platform to showcase their creative and business skills. With 14 categories including the Australian Modern Barber of the Year and the Australian Modern Barber Business of the Year, these awards will culminate in a very cool awards event in Melbourne on 8th November, 2020.

NOMINATED CATEGORY

These awards have been launched due to industry demand and will be judged by an independent panel of judges, media, PR, business specialists, national and international barbers and specialists in the barbering industry. The AMBA’s are proudly owned and operated by mocha publishing, owners of the Australian Hair Industry Awards and the Australian Beauty Industry awards and publishers of Hair Biz magazine and Barbershop Magazine.

HAIR CARE - Best Shampoo and Conditioner pair or 2 in one product HAIR STYLE - Best Styling Product. Entries can include:- Styling Wax, Cream or Paste BEARD CARE - Best Beard Care Product. Entries can include:- Oil, Wax, Cream or Paste

Prizes will include: • Beautiful Trophy presented on the night of the AMBA’s • Use of the Title of winning category for 12 months • Coveted PR in leading trade magazine Barbershop, Hair Biz, • PR campaign for EVERY winner through supplied press releases, images and video footage • Additional prizes

THE CATEGORIES

PHOTOGRAPHIC AND BUSINESS Australian Modern Barber of the Year Australian Modern Barber Business of the Year

PHOTOGRAPHIC ONLY Best Men’s Collection Classic Best Men’s Collection Freestyle Best Team Collection Best Men’s Collection Junior

BUSINESS CATEGORIES Best Director/Owner of the Year Best Customer Care Best Men’s Educator of the Year (Independent or Organisation) Best Barbershop Design of the Year

Special Recognition

AMBA CLEAN SKIN PROFESSIONAL PRODUCT AWARDS CATEGORIES

PHOTOGRAPHIC COLLECTIONS

For the photographic categories, the entry is all about the collection. We do ask for some written information to be uploaded as well but this is minimal and more so about the collection itself and information for us to use for future publicity. It will allow you to get used to the kind of information required by media in a press kit for when you look to market and promote your work. ALL COLLECTIONS MUST HAVE BEEN CREATED WITHIN THE AWARDS PERIOD OF 20th JUNE 2019 – 20th JUNE 2020 Through the AMBA’s we are looking to assist the Barber industry in highlighting the incredible work they can produce and offer with professional collections and therefore collections need to have been photographed professionally and form a cohesive photographic group of images, with plain studio or on-location back drop. They MUST NOT be just salon shots of hairstyles created in an everyday situation. Wigs, wefts, hairpieces and hair extensions are NOT permitted. You must supply a collection of 4 photos showing 4 different looks on 4 different models. Collection can be in Black and White or colour.

DOWNLOAD THE FULL ENTRY KIT & ENTER

BARBER SHOP

All photos must be uploaded as a multipage PDF less than 5mg in size, however if you reach finalist status you will be required to upload to drop box high res images and could also be required to supply block mounted versions of imagery for display at the awards event. These will need to be provided as A4 (210 x 297mm) and mounted on cardboard or foam (no thicker than 5mm), without any border showing Collections may be published as soon as the finalist announcements have been made and NOT before. Each entry will require specific information and imagery to be written and uploaded directly into the awards site. A full list of judges will be published in BARBERSHOP magazine and on the BARBERSHOP Facebook and Insta Pages. For Business Awards, the independent panel of 15+ judges is made up of business coaches, trade and consumer media, key independent figures within the industry and non-industry business experts. For Photographic Awards, the independent panel of 15+ judges is made up of key national and international iconic barbers, hairdressers and media. For AMBA Product Awards, the independent panel of 8+ judges per category is made up of Australian

IMPORTANT DATES Open for Entry Online 21st February 2020

Entry Deadline 22nd June 2020 Product Deadline 18th May 2020

Finalists Announced 1st August 2020 Winners Announced at the AMBA Awards Night – 8th November 2020

For more information please email mail@mochapublishing.com.au

www.australianmodernbarberawards.com.au


Keeping Up With Jürgen Jürgen Niederl our European Correspondent keeps himself busy at his barbershop Holy Tiger and barbering school in Graz, Austria. He travels the globe by popular demand to educate and share his barbering skills and knowledge. Skills that last year earned him Austrian Barber of the Year and the year before, saw him ranked Top 3 Barbers in Europe.

“Do your best, do it with passion and stay true to your own special style. ”


We are following Jürgen this year, and this is our second instalment on him and his Barber Life! I love the way he composes his collections and sharing them with our readers is a joy. Jürgen really creates a story with his work, next issue he takes us to barbering event in Chile, but for now let’s learn a bit more about him.

JÜRGEN, YOU’VE BEEN BUSY SINCE OUR LAST ISSUE WE SEE.

Absolutely! I’ve been having an exciting time with lots of workshops at Holy Tiger, presenting our latest collections to different Magazines, and now I’m preparing my next photo-shoot and getting ready for the event in Chile.

THE BARBERIAS MAGAZINE COVER…WAY TO GO!! PLEASE TELL US ABOUT THAT AND THE COLLECTION FEATURED.

Revista Barberias Magazine is a Spanish Barber magazine. I was invited to do the cover story, to present our Collection, the Holy Tiger Barbershop, myself and the whole crew in the magazine. We´re all the more pleased when our work is presenting and valued all over the world.The pic for the Cover story is from our Collection ‘The Gang’. This Collection is inspired by the Gangs of Birmingham in the 1919´s. We´re constantly working on ourselves and always want to deliver top quality.

ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL CLASS HAS BEEN THROUGH YOUR SCHOOL….PLEASE TELL US ABOUT THAT.

That’s right. It’s amazing to see how everybody enjoyed our workshop and that they come from so many countries (Portugal, Hungary, Poland, Germany etc.) to us to learn. It doesn’t matter if your skills are at a beginner level or if you are an advanced barber. Our academy is suitable for everyone: barbers, hairdressers, stylists or anyone who is interested in the craftsmanship. We always want our attendees to feel welcome in our academy. It´s really great to see that all of them are extremely interested people with the will to learn the crat.

CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THE EVENT COMING UP IN CHILE IN MARCH.

New Year - New Country :) I’ve been invited invited to Santiago de Chile to do some internal and external workshops in cooperation with Gallo de Oro Barberia. It´s a pleasure for me to go to Chile and to share my experience and knowledge with so many people that are passionate for the craft of barbering. I’m really excited to I will keep you up to date about this journey. Anyone interested can follow my trip on instagram @grave_tiger and @holytigerbarbershop.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THE BARBERS ENTERING OUR FIRST ‘AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER OF THE YEAR’ AWARDS? Do your best, do it with passion and stay true to your own special style. Photos: Lex Karelly and Stella Kager Barbering: @grave_tiger, @deanholytiger and @erhart_andre_


On The World Stage BY REX SILVER


Nieves Almaraz

Our US correspondent Nieves Almaraz takes us into one of the biggest industry expos stateside, the ISSE - International Salon and Spa Expo at Long Beach, California (Jan 2020) for some onstage action with the Wahl Education & Artistic Team, Nieves, Kevin Nguyen and Cory Hull. The added bonus to this story... Nieves made finalist in The Men’s Hair Stylist of the Year category!! ….Nice!!

-- PART ONE. ISSE 2020 -TELL US ABOUT THE ‘ISSE’, HOW MUCH FUN DO THE TEAM HAVE PRESENTING TO A MAINLY COSMETOLOGIST (HAIRDRESSING) AUDIENCE, OVER A BARBER ONLY AUDIENCE, AND THE DIFFERENCE IN THESE SHOWS?

Nieves: It’s always exciting when we get the team together! It’s like a spark of energy that we all feed off of that brings out our true passion in educating. Every member of the team brings his or her own edge and expertise. ISSE Long Beach California is our first and the largest Hair Show state side to kick the year off. The show brings out 10’s 0f thousands of hair professionals eager for new products and education. As I walk the show floor, I see many new vendors catering to male grooming/Barbering. I’ve been attending these mainly cosmetology driven shows for fifteen plus years now and I’m pleased to see many barbers in attendance, also how many cosmetologists are telling me that they are now going to school for barbering. We have such a great time with this mixed cosmo/ barber audience on stage because we are able to share new clipper cutting techniques that both professionals can benefit from. It is great how Barbering is growing at such a rapid pace here in the USA that shows like ISSE are recognizing and embracing the barber community, in fact there is a notable barber competition held at the ISSE show with various category’s where barbers compete against one another. Seeing this competition is such an exciting thing to watch as haircuts are performed live and competitors are given a specific time frame to execute. Each haircut is judged afterward to name one competitor victorious!

Kevin Nguyen

Hair by Kevin

A few words With Kevin Nguyen and Cory Hull.

WHAT DO LIKE TO DEMONSTRATE MOSTLY AT LARGE MULTI-INTEREST INDUSTRY EVENTS LIKE THE ISSE?

Cory Hull

Hair by Kevin

Nieves Almaraz

Kevin: I really love showing off the ease and versatility of the Wahl Clippers when educating a crowd at expo’s like this one, presenting that modern Barbering techniques can be mastered easier, with great tools. Cory: I like to teach the technical aspects of cutting men’s and what you do with clippers other than fading etc. Wet cutting and how essential it is to finish dry. I’m probably more known for my styling of men’s hair.

WHAT IS YOUR TAKE ON THE BARBER SCENE RIGHT NOW IN THE US?

Kevin: When you see how inspired and motivated the youth are about Barbering, you know the industry is going to continue to grow and grow at a rapid rate! Cory: Exactly, Education attendance numbers are at an alltime high with men’s grooming!! cont’d over page


cont’d from page 15

-- PART 2 THE NAHA AWARDS -Barber Shop Magazine is so proud of Nieves for achieving a finalist position this year in the prestigious category ‘Men’s Hairstylist of the Year 2020’. Way to go Nieves!!

WALK US THROUGH YOUR NAHA JOURNEY.

Nieves: I always like to say that preparation is key, I’ve been preparing for an experience like NAHA for many years now. However, I was invited to a ‘creative photoshoot’ by Lisa Finucane Wahl’s Director of Education here in the US. Lisa and I laugh because she failed to mention that the shoot she invited me to take part in was in fact to create a collection for the North American Hairstyling Awards NAHA. The day I stepped into the studio I was greeted by Jamie DiGrazia and Pete Goupil-Grey both previous winners of NAHA Awards. I have to admit I was a bit thrown back because I knew I was in the presence of such talent. I literally chose my models and brainstormed in my head what my collection would look like and got to work. We pulled together and bounced ideas off of each other even though we were competing for the same award. My Nominated Men’s Hairstylist of The Year collection, I knew in order to bring it all together each piece had to speak to each other! I also wanted to showcase my versatility with different hair textures. There was no doubt about it! I was going to express hair designs honoring my hometown Chicago expressing our culture with the graffiti like hair art in three different styles. I received the news I was nominated as a finalist ironically beside Lisa Finucane, I believe she was more excited than I was, she was beyond proud. The night of the awards was such a great experience walking the red carpet and interviewing with all the media. My wife Cristina and my whole family are proud beyond words. The cover of the show program passed out to everyone attending the awards featured a photo from my nominated collection along with my headshot and bio on the back cover, this made me feel like a winner already with several people stopping to congratulate me.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ENTRANTS FOR OUR VERY OWN AMBA’S, ‘AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER AWARDS’?

Nieves: Some sound advice I can pass on is just be yourself and allow this to be expressed in you work, it takes a lot to have your work judged and put out in the open this way. Stay true to who you are and your abilities, winning is wonderful however at the end you will never lose only learn.

YOUR NOMINATION FOR MEN’S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR LED TO A NATIONAL TOUR “THE DISRUPTOUR 2020”, FOR THE WAHL EDUCATION & ARTISTIC TEAM. GIVE US A LITTLE INFO ON THAT.

Nieves: Rex, being nominated for such a prestigious award has sparked interest from many, and the demand for education (from myself and the team) is at an all-time high. The DISRUPTOUR powered by Wahl consist of myself along with extremely talented and versatile educators sharing our talents in fading, detailing, styling, haircutting, hair designs, photography and much more… We will be educating throughout the states, bringing a new generation of education dedicated to artistic diversity. Promoting selfexpression in men’s hairdressing, clipper cutting, hair coloring and finishing looks. Our team of artist will empower you to think beyond the chair into the social media and photo editorial spaces disrupting the status quo and preparing you for the future.

ALWAYS A PLEASURE NIEVES THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.

Thank you Rex I am looking forward to sharing more of barbering from this side of the world with you all. Nieves Almaraz @howtofadehair Cory Hull @thehellrazor Kevin Nguyen @yukuzabarber Black and White Photos: Jordan Halloway ISSE Photos: Ronald Jusayan 16 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


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A Free Spirit BY REX SILVER

18 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


Robert Braid

Robert Braid, owner of Braid Barbers, Milton Keynes and Lamington Spa, UK, was super hard to nail down for this interview, his schedule these last few months has been hectic to say the least. There was Halifax, Canada for the charity event - Community Barber Showcase, then off to Miami for a book signing as he was considered one of the planets Top 12 Barbers by the publishers of ‘Barbering Bible’. He graces its pages alongside modern barber legends such as Sofie @ Staygold31, Bertus @the_bloody_butcher and Leen @schorembarbier to name just three. Stage, workshop and judging in Ukraine, the 5th annual ‘Greek Barber Festival’ and before that ‘Russian Barber Week’, which in Rob’s words was “the most polished and professionally run barbering event, coupled with the highest concentrated number of totally focused, motivated and enthusiastic patrons I have ever attended anywhere in the world” (BarberShop will be all over RBW 2020 to see what’s that is all about!) Big words indeed from this multi-award-winning Barber and these are just a few of the appointments he rattled off. On top off all this, co-running two of London’s leading Barber Shops keeps him busy…..I’m tired already! We meet Robert Braid...

YOU HAVE A FAMILY HISTORY IN HAIRDRESSING PLEASE TELL US ABOUT THAT AND YOUR BEGINNINGS IN THE INDUSTRY.

“Classic will never be out of style, you know, well-groomed side part that sort of thing.”

That’s right my Dad had 5 salons in and around London, starting around 1970. I basically grew up in a salon, but I officially started my trade at 17 and was a women’s hairdresser for around 10 years, I didn’t do men’s until we opened Milton Keynes Braid Barbers in 2003. At 27, and after a decade non-stop Hairdressing, Robert took 2 years off to go to Asia to clear his mind, re-focus and study his other passion, Martial Arts. Robert is fully trained in Bruce Lee’s discipline of ‘Jeet Kune Do’. In 2008 Robert won the World title in the discipline of ‘Pilipino Kali (fighting with 2 sticks), in the Philippines! Such rigid discipline, structure and the obeying of rules is the polar opposite in his mind-set with how he approaches his creativity and the craft of Barbering and Photography (self-taught in both by the way) where being “totally non-conforming and free in sprit” are words he uses to describe his creative head-space.

19 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1

cont’d over page


cont’d from page 19

WHAT MOTIVATED YOU TO DO BARBERING AND PLEASE EXPLAIN HOW THAT HAS GROWN TO 2 SHOPS.

I was in Thailand at the time and was watching a Wold Cup game when David Beckham came out onto the field with this mohawk. It set something off in me and before long I was back to London to dive deep into the resurgence of men’s grooming. My brother and business partner David and I opened our first Barber Shop at Milton Keynes, and three years later our second at Lamington Spa; 2 Floors and winner of a Design Award. Milton Keynes is vintage inspired in its design, and Lamington Spa is more of a traditionally inspired fit out for sure, two floors, ground floor is walk-ins only.

COLOUR IS A HUGE INFLUENCE AND A STANDOUT DIFFERENCE TO YOUR WORK COMPARED TO MOST BARBERS. DOES THIS REFLECT IN YOUR DAY TO DAY BUSINESS, OR IS IT RESERVED FOR YOUR CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHIC WORK?

I love colour even though I’m colour blind with red and brown, I can direct a great colour it just makes it hard for me to mix-up really. Colour is very important to my work and that of our business. We have in-house colourists at each shop and my personal colourist is Pete Hatter. We mainly work at Milton Keynes as that’s our more creative shop of the two really.

60 SECOND SPEED DATE WITH ROBERT BRAID Favourite Food? Thai Favourite Drink? Guinness for a drink-drink, water and lemon all day. Favourite Destination? Mongolia Favourite Movie? Matrix What are you Listening to? Drum and Bass What are you watching? Real life crime doco’s, I’m obsessed with serial killers What are you reading? Monster of Florence…. yep, about a serial killer. Do you have a sport? I love watching UFC. (Rex: Wasn’t expecting a world champ martial artist but there you go readers!) 20 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


In our conversation Rob indicates a “total look” if you will, is how he see’s and approaches each customer individually, and his creative photographic wor., If he feels a colour is needed to enhance or compliment or ‘finish’ that persons look, as he worded, he’ll recommend it or if in a shoot/collection situation, have a colour done.

I SEE YOU’RE THE PHOTOGRAPHER IN A FEW SHOTS’ AND COLLECTIONS OF YOUR WORK IS THIS A NEW PASSION TOO?

Actually, when I was in Asia, I bought a decent camera. This was before social media and smart phones, and I taught myself photography. Funny as I am self-taught in Barbering as well, although it did follow a ten year hairdressing career.

WHERE DO YOU DRAW YOUR CREATIVE INSPIRATION FROM?

Well my theory and what I teach, and practice is that each customer, model or hair cut or creation or whatever, has to be customised to that person’s face, personality and lifestyle. I like to clear my head, have no preconceived ideas and make it up on the spot, on the fly, according to the face etc. Granted, my collections have an inspired ‘theme’ before I go in of course, but the actual work is bespoke to the individual on the day. The Mad Max Collection for example, was inspired by Burning Man, an annual event in the desert of Nevada, which, according to National Geographic, is described as a ‘temporary metropolis dedicated to community, art, self-expression and self-reliance’. (See full Collection on page 40)

WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FUTURE OF BARBERING/MEN’S GROOMING GOING?

Full circle! We are seeing less skin fades and more length now, everywhere, not just the UK. Longer hair, mod cuts and mullets, definitely more scissor skills, but you need all the tools. Classic will never be out of style, you know, well-groomed side part that sort of thing.

WHAT ADVISE WOULD YOU GIVE OUR BARBERS ENTERING OUR FIRST, AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER AWARDS? FOR SOME, IT WILL BE THEIR FIRST BY WAY OF PHOTOGRAPHIC SUBMISSION.

This is so Cool for Australia! Ok, don’t overthink! Just get in there! Tailor the look to the guys face and also the styling, you know, don’t do a pomp on a guy and put him in a hoodie! @r.braid

@braidbarbers

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CHAIR TALES Achieve a high-tech low-fade with Andis Andis Australian Educator Jordan Tabakman takes you through his step-by-step process for creating this high-tech look.

When it comes to executing the perfect low-fade, a combination of the right tools and techniques will ensure barbers masterthe art of this on-trend look. As a world-leading manufacturer of clippers and trimmers, Andis delivers tools that perform beyond expectation. With Andis Australian Educator Jordan Tabakman providing step-by-step insight, and showing how to execute this technique in pictures, discover how to achieve the perfect result and elevate the precision of your fades with Andis.

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6 - 8 June 2020

Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre

hairexpo.com.au

Hair: Tori Gill Photographer: Andrew O’Toole Stylist: Mette Pors Make up: Georgia Ramman


Barber on a Mission!!

ents

BY REX SILVER

& Ra Gents & Rascals Barbershop

scal

2/112-114 Boyce Rd, Maroubra NSW 2035 (02) 8957 8211 | info@gentsandrascals.com.au gentsandrascals_barbershop GentsandRascalsBarbers

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Gents and Rascals Where: 2/112-113 Boyce Rd, Maroubra, NSW 2

Who: Suzi O’Brien, Founder and Owner A BIT OF HISTORY

Wow, what an inspiration it was to meet Suzi O’Brien. A very special person who has a firm grasp on the direction her business is going, not only what it offers and delivers to its clientele but where it sits within her community. Suzi’s outlook on our industry and what a Barber Shop can be, is most certainly unique.

TELL US YOUR BARBER STORY SUZI, WHERE DID IT START AND HOW DID YOU GET HERE WITH G&R?

I began my barbering career at the young age of 15, in my hometown of Ballincollig, Co.Cork, Ireland. I soon fell in love with my job and as I progressed and found my own style. I opened my own barbershop at the age of 17, named it Barberella and cut clients, friends and even teachers after school. I went on to manage Bladez Barbershop in Cork City which is a legendary Barbershop where I’m from and that’s where I really found my passion and drive for success learning from my boss at the time Lorraine Stout. I learned there, that education is everything and that you must never stop learning and also paying forward what you yourself have learned and can offer to help those in the industry. I emigrated to Sydney, Australia in 2011 at the age of 22 and travelled around Australia working in various barbershops. When I initially started barbering in Australia, although I was very confident in my skills, I found it hard to be taken seriously in a male dominated industry. There’s one particular story I like to tell, and it happened when I first touched down in Australia. I was going through customs and filled in my occupation as “Barber” on my landing card and when I handed it over to the security man, he said “Oh in Australia, we say Hairdresser”. I wanted to say I’ve never touched a woman’s head in my life, but I didn’t think he would understand. I had some time away from the barbershop in 2012 when I got a job in Rural QLD doing some fly in fly out work which was part of my visa obligations. I worked on a roster for 2 years which was 12hr days for 21days on and 7 days off. I started as a Spotter for Heavy Plant & Machinery but found it extremely boring and standing in 40degree plus heat all day wasn’t the most

pleasant, so I decided to get myself some truck lessons and scored myself a HR licence. In the end I was driving 40tonne dump trucks round in circles for the remainder of my time there but the best thing was when it would rain it would pour and I was in a 1000 man camp which you weren’t allowed leave, so when it would rain I would set up in the Wet Mess Room and cut hair all day long! I used to make more money doing that than driving the trucks! It got so out of hand with guys asking me for haircuts that I had to restrict my “cutting nights” to certain nights of the week!! That was a lot of fun and brings back great memories. From there I moved back to Sydney and had my first son Theo in 2014. I went back to work eventually in a local barber but quickly realised my passion and drive for more was too big to stay where I was. I knew it was the time to open up my own place again and within 2 weeks of having that realisation I had found my premises and opened Gents & Rascals Barbershop in Dec 2016.

HOW MANY STAFF DO YOU HAVE?

I have 6 staff. 2 ladies including myself and 4 guys one being our apprentice.

WHAT’S A SERVICE LIKE AT G&R AND WHAT’S YOUR SIGNATURE SERVICE?

We as a shop set extremely high standards for ourselves and constantly try to push the boundaries in men’s grooming. We’re known for our fades. A fade from us will be nothing short of perfection. A blurry skin fade to the bone is my favourite cut for sure. There’s nothing more satisfying than giving a perfectly symmetrical blended fade. A service at G&R will always come with a few laughs. I think there’s nothing better and more therapeutic than laughing. We pride ourselves on being professional first and having banter second but a lot of the time they go hand in hand in our shop as we all love a bit of back and forth craic with each other. We love to spoil our clients and 27 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1

In 2004, when she was just 15, Su started sweeping and washing ha after school at a local barbershop in town. As her skills improved, sh moved to shaving and cutting and soon began developing her own s She quickly fell in love with the cr and the joy it brought her watchin customers walk out with a smile a new sense of confidence.

She went on to open Barberella, a little barbershop in her hometow of Ballincollig, where she worked nights after school, often squeezi in homework between cuts. She continued to grow and develop her skills, managing other busy barbershops in Cork, Ireland and gaining a loyal following of clients before migrating to Sydney in 20 to start a new life abroad.

go that extra mile. Think waxing, indulgent massages and even facials which are We hugely popularand promote men’s mental create awareness for us. We take the time to we really health, because care. Making you look good understand what our is trying is theclient easy part, but to try and make you feel good to achieve from their haircut and is our mission. about yourself by taking those extra few minutes to listen to their needs can be the difference between an average haircut and a fantastic one. Our signature service has to beGents our& Rascals luxurious hot towel shave and facial combo. You will be treated to hot steam, hot towels slick and lathery soaps and oils before your closer than close straight razor shave. Then have your face invigorated with an exfoliating scrub followed by a customised face mask and polished off with an indulgent face, neck and head massage. Complete Heaven!

YOU WERE A FINALIST IN FEIBI. HAVE YOU COMPETED A LOT AND IS THAT SOMETHING YOU ENJOY?

Yes, that’s something I’m very proud to be a part of as it was the first female competition in Australia. I have competed in Ireland in the past and gained great recognition from them but it’s definitely something I want to continue doing. It’s hard to have your work judged because for me it’s so personal. It’s my life’s worth of work and I think would rather someone judge negatively on my looks rather than my haircuts!! But it’s good for the soul. It’s good to put yourself out there and push yourself, to take yourself out of your comfort zone. It ignites your passion and keeps you from becoming complacent.

YOU WERE NAMED IN THE TOP 25 BARBERS cont’d over page


cont’d from page 27

IN SYDNEY. HOW COOL IS THAT?

That came as a complete surprise! I had no idea about that until it came out and I honestly was overcome with joy! To be recognised as one of the best Barbershops in Sydney has to be one of my proudest moments thus far! My little shop down a side street in Maroubra that I opened just 3 years ago on my own. All I can say is DMARGE (Web site – The Modern Play Book for Men) must have some serious good taste for picking us! Haha! Since opening we’ve also been finalists in the Randwick Local Business Awards in the Hairdressing Category each year! I would love for the awards to have a Barbering Category soon as I really feel the two industries are so different to one another and Barbering should really be recognised as its own entity.

YOU SHOOT YOUR OWN WORK AND MAKE YOUR OWN ADS, IS THIS FOR YOUR INSHOP MARKETING, OR FOR GENERAL CONSUMER?

Yeah, we just play around with different ways to market our pictures for our social media. I thought it was cool to put our stamp on our picks so that you know who did it straight away. Also, it makes it easy for guys to know what to ask for when they see a cut they like. We like to say “Ask for a tapered edge, for a little extra on your next cut” for example.

YOU MENTION MEN’S MENTAL HEALTH IN YOUR MISSION STATEMENT, HOW DO YOU AND YOUR STAFF WORK WITH THAT WITH YOUR CLIENTS?

I feel as a barber, we have a unique platform to speak to so many guys at a unique level. We have the ability to build a trusting relationship with someone but still not be close enough to be “friends”. It’s in that unusual relationship that I found guys can be a lot more comfortable to tell us personal things that they may not want to tell a friend in fear of judgement or them then telling other friends etc. Its long said that the Barber is like a therapist and

I’m very willing and happy to lend an ear to anyone who needs to get something off their chest. I can tell when my regular clients aren’t themselves and 9 times out of 10, I’m right and we end up having a chat and usually by the end I’m able to get a laugh out of them and they go away feeling a little bit better than before. Again, being female I feel this is another huge advantage that we have that we can see things from different points of views and maybe be a bit more compassionate towards people. I’ve had guys just sit in my chair and burst into tears; I’ve had people ring me saying they’re on the edge asking me what to do. It’s not something I take lightly at all. What I have noticed a lot is the sheer number of hours most guys are working. It’s actually insane how much some people are working and not getting enough downtime. For example, working in tunnels below ground and not seeing any day light. Going from days to nights and nights to days running on very little sleep. That is actually when I decided to offer facials as a service. The tunnel workers have to wear masks and their skin was breaking out from the masks and dirt. So, killing two birds with one stone, we were able to help with their skin concerns and give them some downtime with a massage. We also offer some daily tips on how to deal with anxiety in the shop and on our social media and have some print outs in the shop directing people discreetly to professional help. We held a sausage sizzle on RUOK Day in aid of the charity to raise funds and awareness. Our motto is Look Good, Feel Good. To make you look good is the easy part, but to make you feel better about yourself is our mission.

DO YOU HAVE ASPIRATIONS FOR MORE SHOPS, COMS OR PERHAPS EDUCATING WITHIN THE INDUSTRY?

All of the above! I would love to open more shops as I have thousands of ideas that I can’t wait to implement but to do so I need the staff. I feel there is a massive shortage of longterm Barbers in Sydney and it is my biggest hurdle a business owner. I often find barbers with temporary 28 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1

visas and now with Barbering on the short-term skills list it’s a huge investment for a small business to only be allowed sponsor someone for 2 years. To combat this, I have started teaching a Barbering workshop in an effort to spark people’s interest in our industry with the hope of feeding my own staffing issues. I plan to become Cert IV qualified this year so I can pursue teaching more seriously. I plan to be entering the American Crew All Star Competition, the Barber Brands International Competition and the FEIBI Awards Competition this year so fingers crossed! One thing that I really love about owning G&R is our ability to do so much charity work. In December I sponsored myself in a charity boxing fight for Irish Fight Night, with all the money raised going to the Irish Support Agency which do fantastic work for the Irish-Australian community should they fall on tough times. I was beaten by decision in the end, but I was very proud of the effort and commitment I made over the 12-week training camp. Having 2 young boys and a business and training 6 days a week it was no small feat, but I was very proud of the amount of money myself and the shop were able to raise which with the $4000 sponsorship, was approx $5500. Just yesterday we also ran a 5k Fun Run from Maroubra to Coogee Beach in aid of the Rural Fire Services. We ran in the torrential rain and wind with trees blowing down Gents & Rascals Barbershop around of us. We were blasted with sand asBoyce we ran past theNSW beaches 2/112-114 Rd, Maroubra 2035 and the worst weather (02) 8957battled 8211 | info@gentsandrascals.com.au gentsandrascals_barbershop Sydney has seen since the 90’s but GentsandRascalsBarbers that didn’t stop us. Collectively we raised just under $5000. By hosting these events and coming together for others I feel G&R is much more than your average barbershop. We are a community and a safe haven for guys to be pampered by some of the best with a clipper in hand, to be appreciated as an individual and cared for like a friend.

Gents & Rascals


THE BOTANICAL ENRICHED GROOMING RANGE ESSENTIAL TO ANY MAN’S DAILY ROUTINE


When Barbering is in the DNA BY REX SILVER

Mark Fallon has been in the industry for over 37 years, working in the family business in London at an English Barber Shop (Michael’s) which is still going today. Owned by his Uncle who’s had it since the 1950’s, and at 83 years of age, he still does a few days a week on the floor!

“Everyone is welcome and there’s a lovely happy, creative and productive beachside atmosphere”.

30 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


Who: Mark Fallon, The Strand barber Shop Where: 72-80 Marine Parade Coolangatta, QLD 4225

“This is where I did my apprenticeship”, says mark, “where I learned old school Barbering as well as learning Barbering at the London School of Fashion where I did competition work.” “I opened my first Barber Shop in London in Malden in 1986 and my sister who’s also a Barber worked with me, and we opened two other shops in Wimbledon in 1988 and 1990. I sold up and came to Australia in 1999. In 2009 I opened a Barber Shop in Kingscliff and also another shop in Tweed, eventually both businesses were sold and then, I created The Strand Barber Shop. Mark wanted to create a new type of Barber Shop specialising in all aspects of traditional Men’s Barbering with a modern twist, and also have a bit of a museum with Barber Nostalgia, original barber chairs and a diverse selection of products to suit everyone from young to old. “The concept was a ‘traditional community Barber Shop’”, says Mark, “based on ‘old fashioned values of customer service’, where everybody is made to feel welcome. We specialise in cutthroat shaves as we have a lot of people on holiday who love to experience a relaxing shave with steamed towels accompanied with the nicest products. And we do cuts for every age group from kids to pensioners as well as style, fashion and model cuts. Everyone is welcome and there’s a lovely happy, creative and productive beachside atmosphere.” The beautiful coastal strip location on Marine Parade in Coolangatta is a popular surf and holiday spot, where beach culture can positively impact and influence local businesses. “There are lots of skateboarders and surfers coming into the shop all of the time”, Mark explains, “but the majority (about 60%) are locals and holidaymakers. A lot of our clients are on holiday as it’s a great location. We also do a lot of rockabilly and rock and roll festival styles.” Priding themselves in training and education, The Strand Barber Shop hires qualified tradespeople and also trains their our own apprentices and with such a history and great reputation within the industry, Mark and his team are continuing the family legacy in true and talented form.


A Gentleman and a Scholar BY REX SILVER

Mr Hackett Luxury Barber Who: Greg Whatling Where: 121 Riding Road, Hawthorn, QLD. 32 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


“I started my career in England in 1968 at my local Barber as a tea and tidy Saturday sweeper which led to an apprenticeship at 14. I was on £1.83 a week,” says Greg Whatling, owner and founder of Mr Hackett. “The shop was the famous LONG JOHN Barber Shop in Cheltenham and at the time, it was the only full-service Barber Shop that washed and styled men’s hair out side of a Vidal Sassoon’s Salon.” “The Shop was near a fashion school and one day, a girl walked in, sat on a waiting chair and took a cigarette out of one of Long Johns customers mouth, took a drag and said “I heard you are the best cutter around…cut my hair!” Within weeks the shop morphed into a 50/50 unisex salon, but Greg had the calling for barbering and at 19, opened a split shop Barbering one side, and women’s hairdressing on the other. This kept going for some time and in 2001 he moved to Australia, where for 18 months did fly in fly out work back to London to do 2-week stints on the floor there, coming home to Australia for weekends. A chance encounter with modern hair straighteners led to a 10 year plus career in that industry but the calling of barbering was too strong, so in 2014 Greg opened MR HACKETTS. Inspired by the resurgence of Barbering and in particular ‘The Oldy Worldly’ Gentlemen’s Scholar style, if you will, Greg fit out his Luxury Men’s Barber Shop and hasn’t looked back. The big point of difference, no clippers. Neck Trimers Only. That’s right, Greg and his staff, retrained and taught by Greg, use the timely old fashion ‘pure scissor’ craft to cut their clients hair. Each client is consulted, and a bespoke hair design is crafted for each individual to suit that individual’s needs, facial shape, lifestyle and personality. Greg and his staff are fully booked for their expert scissor services and have clients coming from The Gold Coast, Greater Brisbane area and even Sydney to experience the Mr Hackett Luxury Barber. Average service cost is $75 and lasts 30- 40 min. A sample of the best products from selected ranges Greg chooses himself are available for his discerning clientele. And what’s on the cards? Stay tuned for a Unique Product from Mr Hackett and Education Opportunities to get reacquainted with your scissors in some intimate classes by this master, to be announced soon.

33 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1

“I heard you are the best cutter around… cut my hair!”


INSIDE SOME OF THE WORLD’S BEST LUXURY BARBERSHOPS Hotel de Crillon La Barbière de Paris, located in the opulent Hôtel de Crillon in Paris, brings a level of sophistication and service that stands out even in a city renowned for such traits. Let one of their highly-trained staff give you a perfect straight-razor shave in a space so lavish and luxurious you’ll leave feeling like royalty — extremely well-groomed royalty.

In fact, they are now defining a new kind of luxury for men, elevating a personal ritual that might have once been a chore to a sybaritic experience worth anticipating with excitement. With some dispensing single malt Scotch, other haircuts costing hundreds of dollars, and most offering various customized feelgood treatments as well, these are places that you want to spend as much time in as possible. Straight razor shaves with artisanallycrafted Damascus steel blades are now par for the course, as are perfectly packaged in-house grooming products like the ones found at the posh Pankhurst London, which has leather barber chairs upholstered by Bentley Motors and whose owner Brent Pankhurst has cut the hair of Daniel Craig, aka James Bond himself. The black and gold-bedecked Barbería Royal in Mexico City is arguably the most beautiful barbershop in the world – it faces Reforma, the ceremonial boulevard created in the 19th century by the Emperor of Mexico, and royal references abound –

Pankhurst London A full-experience barbershop, Pankhurst London offers clients access to a speakeasy, a gentlemen’s club and luxury grooming all under one roof. If you’re able to afford an appointment, you’ll be styled to perfection while lounging in the custom-made, Bentley-upholstered barber’s chairs.

The design acumen of these bastions of elegant grooming, now to be found everywhere from the famed Hôtel de Crillon in Paris to Bangkok’s Black Amber Social Club, is only getting better as they pop up in all corners of the globe.

and The Argyle League in Houston and Pittsburgh’s House of Handsome rival anything overseas.

Barberia Royal Barbería Royal offers Mexico City’s elite the finest barber and grooming services, from a shave or haircut to a full spa package. Due to the world-class level of service and luxury, the experience isn’t cheap; haircuts can cost up to $450, but we recommend splurging for the full pampering with a 90 minute Royal Pack treatment for a mere $900.

Which is saying something when you consider Dolce & Gabbana’s Felliniesque barbershop in their London men’s tailoring boutique, featured in a previous edition of BarberShop, and Freemans Sporting Club in Tokyo are among the competition. “Being well groomed isn’t enough anymore,” says Pankhurst. “People want to enjoy the experience” as well. That has brought on demand for the “iconic ways of styling with classic wet shaves as enjoyed by the greats such as Frank Sinatra becoming more appealing to men than a quick shave in front of the mirror at home,” Pankhurst notes. And “going to ‘your barber’ who also happens to be an expert in head-to-toe style gives you a bit of an edge and an attitude, it helps you stand out from the crowd.” While a barbershop might seem a bit out of date at a luxury hotel these days, Marc Raffray, managing director of Hôtel de Crillon, a Rosewood Hotel, says it’s a great fit. “At Hôtel de Crillon, we pride ourselves on offering authentic and immersive experiences that surprise and delight our discerning guests,” he says. “At the same time, our community is at the heart of everything that we do, and we look to provide local 34 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1

Parisians with special services and ample opportunity to enjoy the hotel as well. “It is for these reasons that we chose to bring La Barbière de Paris to Hôtel de Crillon. The institution is regularly regarded as one of the best in all of Paris, and its impeccable reputation and incredible variety of treatments are consistently celebrated by visiting guests and locals alike.” And afterwards you can repair to one of the most famous bars in the city, located just across the lobby. Whichever barber you choose to patronize, as author and style expert David Coggins notes in his book Men and Manners, good grooming should never be taken for granted. “A man who takes care of himself is communicating a lot to the world,” he notes. “Which is good to remember because you never know who you’re going to run into on the street: your possible employer, or your ex- or future wife or girlfriend” – or both.

Re-produced courtesy of maxim.com


American Barber Haircare

american_barber_haircare

(03) 9555 1533 | sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au | 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia


HYBRID

Mixing the signature style of The Beatles with the rock ‘n’ roll swagger of the Stones, Hybrid puts a modern twist on iconic cuts from music history


Hair/Photography:

Desmond Murray Make-up: Ellen Bridger


RaW

A striking fusion of texture, movement and structure, RaW showcases the men’s hair expertise for which the Mark Leeson brand has become renowned


Hair by: Andrea Giles &

Terri Kay at Mark Leeson Make-up by: Clare Read Styling by: M&R Photography by: Richard Miles


MAD MAX


Hair by: Robert Braid @r.braid Photography: Liam Oakes @liamoakesphoto MUA: Danielle Saysell @d.saysellfx and Terri Benamore @missterritattoos


boys.


Hair by: Anthony Osborne

and Royston Blythe

Salon – Royston Blythe Photography – Richard Miles Styling – Nick Malenko


NEW GEAR TAC BLACK DOUBLE EDGE SAFETY RAZOR BY MILKMAN

For folks concerned about landfill & sustainability, plastic razors look like going the same way as straws & shopping bags. Be ready for the change, with its full stainless-steel construction & titanium black finish, Milkman’s new ‘Tac Black’ razor is a tactical improvement to the daily shave. Now guys can shave in style, reduce their environmental footprint and own weapon of hair reduction, all at the same time. www.milkman.com

AMERICAN BARBER GEL BY M&U IMPORTS

Firm hold, low shine non flaking Gel. Suitable for all hair types. www.muimports.com.au

GP21 PROFESSIONAL TRIMMER BY PANASONIC

Panasonic launch the GP21 Professional Trimmer onto the Australian market. Lightweight, ergonomic and precise. Made in Japan. www.muimports.com.au

DS+ PREMIUM BARBER SCISSOR BY DARK STAG

The DS+ is forged from high performance 440C Japanese steel for reliable long-lasting precision Available now in 6”, 6.5” and 7” www.darkstag.com

SKULLETO COMBS BY PEGASUS

High heat and chemical resistant, the newly introduced Pegasus range of hairdressing combs is back with a whole new style! Draped in either Gold or Silver, with intricate skull designs, this range combines traditional precision barbering with revolutionary Pegasus Flexinite Technology – with an added design flare! Each comb boasts of seamless, perfectly rounded teeth and a firm grip – allowing you to be the master of infinite styling in the salon. Inclusive of eight combs; 202 Styling Comb, 210 Cutting Comb, 303 Barber Tapered Comb, 514A Flattopper Barber Comb – all available in both Silver and Gold www.datelineimports.com.au

FRESHLY BAKED BEARD OIL BY MILKMAN

When demand for an exciting new beard oil scent reached fever pitch, Milkman responded. This newly released ‘Freshly Baked’ beard oil features notes of spiced pudding, whiskey & liquorice for a truly delicious, yet masculine vibe. www.milkman.com

44 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


AFTER SHAVE SERUM BY MILKMAN

Sensitive skin is one of the most common complaints regular shavers face. No longer. Now there’s a seasonal sensitive skin solution. Combining an alcohol free after shave, with a daily moisturising hyaluronic-acid serum Milkman have put a high-tech spin into an old school ointment. www.milkman.com

GUB BY JOIKEN

A true individual Toolcase, available in Black or Brown. Compact easy travel design, protectable flaps, clipper, pins & clip pocket as well as scissor & comb compartments For further details visit www.joiken.com.au

CLIPPER LIFE ALL IN ONE SPRAY BY DISPEL

One quick spray delivers instant cleaning and cooling, while providing lubrication for blades. Reduces friction, heat and blade wear extending the life of your clippers. Disinfects: Lubricates: Cleans: Cools: Prevents Rust www.dispelclean.com.au

NEW INFLUENCER SERIES. FXBLACK, FXWHITE & FXRED BY BABYLISRORO

Introducing a new limited edition inspired by and in collaboration with three of the biggest names in the American barber industry; Sofie Pok (@ staygold31), Rob Ferrel (@robtheoriginal) and Joshua Hawkins (@_thehawkvision). The new BaBylissPRO Influencer Collection features a high torque, brushless, Ferrari-designed engine. It’s easy to use, cordless and dual voltage, allowing for convenience and flexibility within a salon. 2-hour runtime. Each clipper includes an additional interchangeable gold taper arm and gold bottom cap to mix, match and customize. www.datelineimports.com.au

MEDICI CAPELLI RANGE

For minimising Hair Loss this range includes products with Minoxidil, essential vitamins and advanced DHT blocking formulas promoting healthier folicals. www.medicicapelli.com.au

45 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


Man, I’m Losin’ It! BY REX SILBER & GEOFF SMITH

Hair Loss: Not the sexiest subject to be throwing out there at the Barber Shop but check out these shockingly cool results, in the images accompanying this story. I bet the guys getting these treatments are bringing a bit of sexy back into their lives and feelings of self-worth, and rightly so, right? No-one deserves their inner confidence stripped in the first place, not when there are options. For some, hair loss can be a no brainer, “who cares I’ll shave it off!” some guys quip. For others it can be a cause of deep anguish and open up self-esteem problems that can be negatively life changing, permanently. As Barbers, healing is in our DNA, so let’s be armed with some knowledge as to best advise those guys in our chairs that we can see, sense or know that hair loss is affecting, or the clients that flat-out ask our advice. We ask our guys if they are OK? So maybe drop in, ‘hey buddy, does your hair loss bother you?’ it just might be their trigger of anxiety or depression and you just might change someone’s life, positively, permanently. It’s 2020 and solutions have come a long way, and so has the science. According to the research and statistics group Ibis World, the Hair Loss Industry will turn over 3.8bn in 2020. People are interested, if we know a little about it, at least we can start the conversation and point them in the right direction to the pro’s that deal with hair loss everyday so, let’s check it out. In this piece we speak to one of Australia leading experts Geoff Smith, a 30+ year veteran in the Hair Loss Industry and founder of Medici Capelli Clinic on the Gold Coast. REX SILVER: How do you recommend the services available to men who are losing hair?

GEOFF SMITH: Depending on age or degree of hair loss, some people simply want their hair back for sure. If this is the case, we recommend hair transplantation. If the hair loss is minor, it may be in the client’s best interest to opt for medications for several months. How should services be recommended and what goals and expectations do clients have? Always case by case – each individual is different regarding stage of hair loss, what the expected future hair loss will be and retaining enough donor area to accommodate future surgeries. Goals and expectations must be real. Creating & placement of new hairlines must always remain age appropriate i.e. hairline must look natural at say 25 and 65. Treatments have changed over the years through science, aftercare and trends. How has technology progressed? Transplants began with large, pluggy grafts, digressing into flap rotation for a short while. Smaller micro grafting became normal to be refined into Follicular Unit Transplant (FUT). Follicular Unit Excision (FUE) has become very popular in recent years, although for various reasons, this method is beginning to wane and FUT is becoming the more recommended treatment method once again. Is laser stimulation waning in popularity because people want instant results? Laser can still help with general hair health. Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) seems to be more on trend now although this 46 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1

treatment can sometimes be a hit and miss treatment depending on the stage of hairloss. As an authority in this area Geoff, can you give us an overview of the science behind this issue so our readers can have a better understanding of this. Absolutely of course. Get Settled! A large number of men and women will experience hair loss at some point in their life due to varying factors triggering the hormones that cause the hair loss. These triggers can be: Stress/Trauma Thyroid disorders Alopecia Post-surgery Post chemotherapy Dramatic changes in diet Growth hormones in non-organic food Fortunately understanding the hormones that cause the hair loss is the key to treating the problem. Women are slightly different to men in how the hair loss shows. Although women generally don’t have the same pattern of hair loss as men (focused on the top of the head or receding hairline) women tend to show generalized thinning all over. Although the same hormone is responsible, women’s hair loss can easily be reversed with medication and generally do not need surgical hair transplantation. Unfortunately, the same can’t be said for men and the surgical procedures become more common for them.


SCALP MICRO PIGMENTATION

TRANPLANT, FINISHED WITH SCALP MICRO PIGMENTATION

TRANSPLANT AFTER 6 MONTH

MICRO GRAFT

THE BASICS OF HAIR LOSS

DHT, or Dihydrotestosterone, causes 95% of all hair loss in men and women. DHT miniaturizes hair follicles by shortening the anagen (growth) phase and/or lengthening the telogen (resting) phase. This causes the hair follicles to slowly shrink and die, especially if DHT is involved. The net result is an increased number of short, thin, fine hairs barely visible above the scalp. Dihydrotestosterone i.e. DHT, is an active metabolite of the testosterone hormone that is found in men and women. DHT is a naturally occurring hormone but in genetically predisposed people, DHT attacks and binds to the hair follicle, causing hair loss by deteriorating the follicle. These follicles then produce a smaller hair, thinner in diameter and length. If left untreated, the follicle cannot repair itself and ultimately dies, unable to produce further hair growth. Understanding the role of DHT in both female and male hair loss is an important step to finding treatment. The products that prevent these hormones from attacking the hair follicle are called DHT blockers or inhibitors. Blocking DHT helps to slow hair loss and promote the conditions to allow better hair growth. The following steps summarise the process of DHT attacking healthy hair: 1. Testosterone is converted to Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) by 5 Alpha Reductase (5AR) Enzyme. 2. DHT attaches to the androgen receptors on the hair follicle. 3. DHT causes increased hair loss; gradually miniaturizing the hair follicle. 4. This miniaturized hair follicle eventually dies, and hair loss occurs.

With less DHT attacking your androgen receptors, your hair starts to grow and resumes the normal cycle of hair growth. As less and less DHT attacks your hair, it has the chance to grow strong and healthy. Small hairs can grow bigger and your dormant hair can start to re-grow again.

follicle grafts at the very front, placing them close together. This is known as dense packing. Behind the immediate hairline, we place grafts containing 1 or 2 hairs for added fullness and density. Further behind these, we create more density by placing grafts with 2, 3 or 4 hair follicles.

Surgical Hair transplantation. Modern hair transplants look completely natural, gone are the days of “pluggy” unsightly hair restoration. As modern transplants use single follicle micro grafts, we can create a completely natural looking hairline and growth pattern.

Local anaesthetic is given to the donor and recipient areas. Follicles are carefully harvested from the back of the head via FUE or FUT method. Either way there is no discomfort during the procedure. This area is not usually visible later as the existing hair covers it very well.

It is a simple day surgery with very little recovery time. “While many men and some women lose their hair, most people I talk to feel that it happens at a stage which is too early in their life. They often lose confidence and feel older than if they had a full head of hair.” The simple fact is hair transplants are a proven, permanent method of hair restoration. The recent medical advances and leading-edge techniques we use today have made hair transplants virtually undetectable so you can forget the obsolete ‘plugs’ or ‘doll head’ look. Transplanted hair looks natural wet or dry, can be styled the way you like it, and is yours to enjoy for a lifetime.” A Natural Look The front hairline is the most important part of a good transplant. It must be natural and completely undetectable to others. The most natural look is attainable using a zig zag pattern. In other words, no straight or round lines are used but an irregular pattern creates a natural hairline the way your hairline used to be. To achieve these results, we use single 47 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1

Lastly, let’s find out about SMP…. Scalp Micro Pigmentation (SMP) is a cosmetic tattoo technique replicating hair follicles for hair loss. Delivering a natural result by using a mix of pigment that matches your hair colour. We go to great lengths to ensure the shade is correct and apply the pigment to provide a look that is natural. When this technique is applied to a scalp where the hair has been shaved with a razor, it will give the appearance of growing stubble. When micro pigmentation is placed between existing longer hair, it will give the effect of having much thicker hair. SMP can be as bold or subtle as you like. 3 sessions are usually needed to add layers of contrasting pigments for a realistic natural result. For more information:info@medicicapelli.com.au www.medicicapelli.com.au www.facebook.com/medicicapelli


HEALTHCHECK WITH DR BEN DE CAMPO, CEO OF MILKMAN GROOMING CO.

You Can’t Treat Beards Like You Treat Hair

During the last decade there has been a steady increase in the popularity of facial hair styles like the full beard and more recently, the moustache. Along with this trend, some modern men have become more conscious of their grooming routine and actively seek products to develop their facial hair style. Others however, may not appreciate how much better they will look and feel by introducing facial hair grooming into their morning routine. If anything, they consider their beard to be no different from any other hair on their body. If they need to wash it, they may use body wash or head shampoo. They don’t use anything to specifically treat their beard, and they wouldn’t necessarily notice if it looked dry and unhealthy. Occasionally the beard might get a trim and line up at your shop and that’s about it. It’s guys like this that can really benefit from some basic “bearducation”. By showing them how and why beard hair is different, you can start them on a journey to achieving a better style for themselves. Although we can go deep on this topic, really there are two major characteristics of the beard that are responsible for many of the issues a bearded or moustachioed man faces. The first is that skin varies a lot depending on where it is located on the body. For many guys, skin under the beard is drier than their scalp and the “T-zone” on their face. Less natural oil production in this area can result in their skin looking dry & flaky. This can be made worse in cooler weather when the air is dry, and by using aggressive soaps that strip away moisture. Bar soaps and head shampoos may be particularly drying in this regard, as their lather is designed to remove substantial amounts of oil & grime. The second is that facial hair is a different beast to hair on the scalp. It is around twice as thick as head hair (see Figure) and tends to be stiffer. There may also be differences in the ability for the hair to tangle and look unruly. Scalp hair may be straight, yet beard hairs generally grow curly – and the reason for this all comes down to the shape of the follicles. In addition to having a different protein structure, follicles on the face are more sensitive to androgens like testosterone; these hormones contribute to twisting of the follicles resulting in kinks & an uneven look.

Figure: Cross sectional images of scalp hair (A) and facial hair (B). Image from “A Comparative Study of Beard & Scalp Hair” J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 34 (361-382) 1983. What does it all mean? In a nutshell, the beard needs to be cared for differently to hair on the scalp. Beards tend to need a milder cleanser and more conditioning products to soften the thick wiry follicles. When dryness becomes an issue, a quality beard oil can help combat the lack of natural skin moisture. Brushing or combing the beard straight after showering can also help to keep a nice shape to the beard & regular trimming with line ups make a huge difference to how a beard looks. The best way to communicate all of this to your customer is through demonstration. By showing them how some basic beard care improves their style, you will help them with a routine that makes them look and feel more attractive and confident.

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Havana Barber Chair

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The Havana Barber Chair seamlessly combines Old with New, Comfort meets Style. This Traditional Style Barber Chair can conform to any finish, adding as a striking piece to any Barber Shop Features: • Upholstery available in Olive, Black or Tan • Disc Hydraulic • Reclining Backrest • Adjustable Footrest

Havana Barber Chair

Chicago Barber Chair

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Simple effective steps to map out your goals for 2020 BY JULIE PIANTADOSI

I just love a new year. And a new diary, a clean page to start over, to re-focus, debrief and plan ahead for a successful profitable year ahead. Start by thinking about what the end of your year is going to look like financially and start planning at the beginning of the year. Too often I hear salon owners who are stressed and concerned about their financial state towards the end of the year. To avoid that, we need to start now. Being organised and being prepared for anything in salon life is vital for any business owner, because let’s face it, we all know that in salon business, anything can happen! I want you to be mindful about why you’re in business. We don’t go into business to buy our self a job, because that’s crazy. We go into business because we want to become better, be successful, make more money, provide a better lifestyle for our family. A great question to ask yourself when mapping out plans or making important decisions in your business is: 1. will this make me money? 2. will this make me happy? Running a salon in 2020 is extremely difficult, and if you’re leading people, then it’s even more difficult. Throw looking after a family into the mix and now you almost have a recipe for disaster! This is why having structure, clear goals and a positive mindset is the only way you’re going to survive. But I don’t want you to just survive, I want you to thrive. Here are here are a few simple steps to help you have a successful year ahead:

1. DEBRIEF ON THE PREVIOUS YEAR

This means making a list of all the things you did for your business that were successful. These are the things you want to keep doing in the year ahead. Golden rule 101: never fix what is not broken. Next, write down the things that you did as the business owner that you wish you had done differently. What didn’t go as planned, and don’t you want to happen again in 2020? This process will ensure you don’t bring baggage and negativity from our previous year into the year ahead.

2. YOUR FREEDOM METRIC

This is the amount of money that you need and want to live the lifestyle you deserve. The amount you need to give you financial freedom, to be able to pay all your bills and do the things that you want to do whether that’s a vacation for your family twice a year whether it means buying an investment property or whether it means just having enough money in the bank to buy a new hot water system. This amount is going to be different for every single one of us but you need to find the right amount of money which is your freedom metric, because this is what I want you to focus on. If you can’t see this figure in your mind then how can you achieve the financial freedom you long for? Write this figure down

3. RE-INVENT EVERYTHING

A new year gives us an opportunity to redo and rewrite everything. This is a great time 50 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1

to revisit your policies and procedures, look at what is working and what is not working, update everything and importantly set aside dates throughout the year to sit down with your team and go over everything from your core values, the reason why your salon exists, and importantly the reason why clients should come and spend money in your salon. Clear policies and procedures give everybody the same guidelines and expectations, but these need to be revisited often, updated and re-trained. This is also a great time to revisit all your salon documents from staff appraisals to new client letters, to marketing letters, so set aside some time to go through and update all these important things. Keep in mind that there is no point in creating plans, systems and documents if you don’t set aside the time to train them into your people. You need to have regular team meetings where we come together as a team to focus on our strengths, the things that we do really well, and also our weaknesses, the things we need to do better.

4. YOUR BREAKEVEN DOLLARS

Now this is the amount of money you need every week to open the doors and includes your wages, your stock, your telephone, your tea and coffee, super, GST, payroll, everything! How much does it cost to open the doors every single week? Now if you’ve done this a while ago then it’s time to revisit it. Everybody in the team needs


to know this amount of money. This is the goal every single week. When you work in a hair salon, your job is to make every single guest look and feel amazing and you have to be profitable- after all, nobody wants to work for the salon who is about to go broke! Then break this weekly dollar amount into daily dollar amounts now gives us clarity of what the goal is every day.

5. SHOP AROUND FOR EVERYTHING

What this means is to make sure that you are getting the best value for your dollars spent. If you’ve been with the same product company for a long time, perhaps it’s time to shop around. Just like it’s tough for we salon owners right now, it is also tough for the product companies, and this could possibly be the very best time to get yourself the best deals possible. But saving money isn’t the only thing to look for in a product company. Do you want support? Do you want training? Do you want somebody to sit with you and go over your sales? Different companies will offer different tools, and many will actually offer you business support as well. It’s not always about shopping around for the best price; it’s about the added value. And I would like to add here how important it is to do business with people who you actually like. What are the things that are important to you? Find a company who shares the same values and beliefs that you do. This is also a great time to shop around for your insurances; it doesn’t matter what you spend money on, just be sure to get the most value for your dollar.

6. SET IMPORTANT DATES ASIDE

Write down all the important dates for the next 12 months in your diary and put them up in the back room, so you can be sure to let every team member know what important dates are coming up. Set aside your regular team meetings, your staff appraisals, and your trainings: not just technical training; be sure to set aside time to teach and coach every single team member how you want your clients to feel. Do you want your staff to introduce themselves immediately when the client walks through the door? When would you like them to talk about products? When would you like them to rebook their clients? This non-technical training is vital and it’s super important that you set aside regular scheduled sessions to deliver this throughout the entire year. Many salon owners will hold their own miniretreat for the team; usually mid-year and it’s a great opportunity to take your team away for a cost-effective weekend where you can spend quality time together mapping out their goals and offering them some personal and professional development. You could even bring in a yoga instructor for some added fun! These retreats are super bonding and really empower the team be the best they can be.

7. MARKETING CALENDAR

Imagine having 12 months of ready-to-go marketing ready to execute at the time that you need. Now remember, marketing in your business is like a volume button- you need to know when to turn it up and you need to

know when to turn it down. In busy times, marketing may not be important to you, but marketing becomes super important in quiet times and in particularly when hiring a brand-new team member who needs a clientele. This is when you would turn the volume up. Being organised and systemised with your marketing is vital. It is not just about social media; it is not just about regular posting and updating. It’s also about marketing to your existing clients who already love you. These are the easiest clients to market to because they already trust you. You need to market to new prospective clients and have a promotion ready for most of the events throughout the year, like school formals, Valentine’s Day, Easter and Christmas for example. And be sure to offer every single new client into your business a lovely welcome kit. This can be a bag or a box that has some complimentary goodies for the new client and importantly a welcome letter with an attached call to action offer. As the business owner, it is your job to be the marketer of your own business and to pay close attention to your marketing, your clear goals and plans as the4se bare what will enable you to achieve your financial freedom metric. How many new clients do you need to achieve this? How much money do you want your existing clients to be spending on their visits? All these KPIs are super important to test, measure and monitor, but please remember to just monitor no more than 5 KPIs at once.

8. HOLD YOURSELF ACCOUNTABLE FOR EVERYTHING AND BE AN INSPIRATIONAL LEADER

There is no such thing as a bad team, just poor leadership. This is sometimes the hardest pill for a salon owners to swallow. We are responsible and we are accountable for everything that’s happening within our salon. If your team aren’t performing, it’s because you need to work harder to teach your team exactly what you want them to do. If you are not achieving the dollars you so desperately deserve, then it’s time to do different things. There is no easy ladder to salon success. It’s hard work. This is also a great time of the year to work on your strengths. What are the things about yourself as the leader that you do really, really well and what are things about yourself, as the leader ,that you wish you had the ability to do differently? It’s about making no excuses and taking action so that you can lead your team in the right direction with clear common goals.

9. CHECK ON YOUR TEAM AND MAKE SURE EVERYBODY IS ROWING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

The most important trait every single person in your team needs to possess is to believe in you, their boss, their leader, their mentor and their trainer. Too often in our industry we get told when our people aren’t doing what we want them to do, to simply get rid of them. This is why we have such high turnover of staff. Rather than have the mindset to get rid of the people who don’t do the things you want them to do, why don’t you take the time

and the resources to coach them to be the best they can be? We employ humans, not robots, so they will make mistakes, they will run late. they will take sick days when they’re not sick and sometimes they will ask themselves, ‘Do I really want to be here today?’ Nobody is perfect. Choose your battles. One thing that should always be unconditional is your exceptional customer service experience. It’s vital that you maintain your salon standards and this is a battle you do want to fight. But staff not wearing the right shoes occasionally, in hindsight, is really not a big deal. Our job as a leader is to coach our people up and this time can often be exhausting, but when you put the time and the effort in, the results are outstanding. The only time I would ever suggest to coach somebody out of your salon is if they don’t believe in you the leader, because no amount of coaching or training will change this. Therefore communication as a leader is vital; it’s really important to be able to speak and be heard.

10. LOOK AFTER YOURSELF BECAUSE NOBODY ELSE IS COMING TO SAVE YOU.

Being a salon owner is lonely sometimes. It feels like you have the weight of the world on your shoulders and sometimes you actually do. Therefore, taking care of you is probably one of the most important things you can do for yourself and for the well-being of those around you. I always suggest a minimum of two hours every single week doing something that sparks your joy, something that sets your heart on fire, something that gives you pure happiness. No doubt we have all heard the announcements while sitting on an aircraft before take-off: ‘In the event of an unexpected emergency, put your own oxygen mask on before helping those around you.’ These words resonate so well for me. You are no good to anybody else unless you’re good and kind to yourself first. Running a salon in 2020 is difficult but when you put continuous plans in place and you’re vigilant about what might happen and you are prepared for anything and everything, then you know it’s going to be a great year ahead. We are in the best industry in the world. We have the ability to change the way people look and feel on the inside and on the outside and when you do that really, really well, better than all the other salons around you, then you can charge whatever you want because the client knows you’re worth it. And always remember those two important questions when making business decisions.. will this make me money, and will this make me happy Have an amazing year ahead. You’ve got this! Julie Piantadosi is a business coach and consultant and if you would like to know more please contact julie@totalsalonsolutions.com


CUSTOMER SERVICE BY REX SILVER

Your approach and philosophy on customer service and how you demonstrate this to your customers is crucial and absolute in its role to the success of your business. How your staff follow your mantra and make it their own collectively, brings it all together and it becomes the strength of your brand and what sets you apart and makes you stand out in the crowd. It cements the perception people will have of your business, its reputation and it’s the sole reason people come back. Get it right and you will have long line of loyal followers that wouldn’t dream of going anywhere else. Get it wrong and you become a statistic. It’s not something I think about lightly from time to time, it’s all I think about when I think of my business, and I’m always trying to find out how to do it better. If you want a strong team, a work family, a warrior tribe!! Develop your businesses customer service mantra together, and stick to it like glue. In no particular order because they are all important, here’s 6 tips that have served me well…

1. BE PRESENT

• Situational awareness is key, be aware of what’s going on around you at all times in the shop and with each operator and customer. • Respect your customers TIME, if you take appointments this is important. • Mobiles should only come out to take a photo or show one. • Remember their names and address them by them. • Be aware how confronting a first-time customer might feel in your awesome Barber

Shop when they enter, it’s really cool, there’s loud music, everyone looks amazing.

2. BE PATIENT

• Your customers aren’t Barbers, let them communicate in their language and take a minute to get on the same page, that’s a real gift and they will like that …BEING A GOOD LISTENER.

3. APPLY THE 80/20 RULE

• Let them talk 80% of the time you talk 20%. • Get a read on the situation, if they love your stories great, but get a read on it. It’s our customers time and it’s their time for us to concentrate on their image and all things hair and scalp related first and foremost.

4. KNOW YOUR PRODUCT

• Practice, train your staff and educate yourself regularly. Stay up to date with all thing barbering and show/ tell your customers that you do by posting about it on your socials or mention it in service to your regular clients. Customers love hearing that and love seeing it, some of the most liked posts are images of your crew in a busy shop having fun with the guests. • Know all about the grooming products you sell and only use on the floor what you have in stock in your retail-aftercare area to offer and

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sell on that day. (More on this subject next issue) Meaning, if you are temporarily out of stock, take it off the floor too. • Prescribing grooming products, giving a lesson in stying and recommending to take retail-after care is sharing knowledge and is giving your customers a gift of knowledge. (More on that next issue, get that right and see you bottom line soar)

5. POSITIVE LANGUAGE, POSTURE AND REMEMBER THE FLOOR IS THE STAGE

• Don’t say “want a beer mate?” or if you offer washing, “want your hair washed?”,” want product in your hair mate?” They are leading questions and leading to No as the answer. Stay positive perhaps try “may I offer you a beer sir?” Even your best mate will be impressed at that one. “please accompany me to the basins we are going to wahs your hair now…” “ I’m going to style your hair now here’s what I’m using today” • Don’t mope around with shoulders slumped, stand up straight and be confident and upvibed, remember the floor of the Barber Shop is a stage and we have to be great actors.

6. HYGIENE AND SHOWMANSHIP

• No matter what your interior design theme is, keep your joint as clean as a Doctors or at least a Dentist haha. • Clean your gear when you’re not busy, make sure mirrors are spotless, disinfect combs and scissors… brush your clippers when changing guards mid cut. • Let your customers see you change the blade in your cutthroat, do it in front of them. Do it with confidence, customers love seeing Barbers attention to detail. • Snap the cutting cape out like a beach towel

on a windy day and let it flow offer them, use showmanship and have some fun with this and hot towels etc.!! • Always use a paper neck strip. When you show you care customers see that and connect with it, it makes them feel special. Imagine, think and believe your Barber Shop is the Best in the World and remember the customer is the most important person in the room….999 out of 1000 times.

THE CUSTOMER IS NOT ALWAYS RIGHT!! That’s right, maybe 1 in 1000 is a total pain and may be disrespectful to you, your staff or your business or “YOUR SPACE.” Be proud of what you have built, you created it, own it. If you know within your heart you’re doing your best, you know you exceed standards and they are disrupting the positive energy you put out there, and the environment, 999 of your customers are drawn to it because you are doing it right for them and your staff…maybe say goodbye to that 1 in 1000, don’t be afraid. Take a minute occasionally sit in a chair to get your customers perspective and marvel at the amazing space and business you and your staff work tirelessly at building and maintaining and say “Job well done” I love talking customer service and there is so much we have not touched on I know, loyalty programs, direct marketing, how you connect with your customers on social media and much, much more. I hope you like these tips, I hope I haven’t come across preachy… when we share… we learn. “When a customer walks into to your shop you have their attention, It’s up to you what you do from there.”

53 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


As a new regular feature we invite well-known members of the barbering community to look back on their careers and write a letter to their younger self, in hindsight and with all the knowledge they now have to offer, giving advice on this new and exciting journey as if it was just starting out.

LANCE LIUFAU AKA TOPSHELF BARBER

A Letter to my Younger Self

Dear Lance, My advice to you as a younger me is to be more confident in your own abilities, in your work and also personally. Self-doubt is something that is in all of us, I know that, but I wish that I had been more confident in my skill sets and been more willing to give things a go earlier. Taking a leap of faith and taking risks is important because what I have realised is; there is nothing within this industry that will hurt or kill you. If you were to fail there are only lessons to be learnt, which in turn will only make you stronger and wiser. My second piece of advice for my younger self, and something that I could continue to give myself today, is to only see myself as my only competition. What I mean by that is to ‘Stop Comparing Both Yourself and Your Work To Others.’ What I have found is, the more I take notice of others work and what they are doing, the less I focus on my own work and what I am doing. This can limit one’s development and growth and then stops us from getting closer to the goals that have been set for ourselves. Final words of advice - Never stop learning, Stay on your grind & Keep it TopShelf. @lance_topshelfbarber


BRISBANE SCHOOL OF BARBERING

GET QUALIFIED AT BRISBANE SCHOOL OF BARBERING Apprentice training program (on campus/in shop). Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL). Barber Pathway Program and Certificate III in Barbering - SHB30516 Vocational Training Programs 3229-2999 admin@brishair.com.au www.brishair.com.au

Brisbane School of Barbering is a division of Academies Australasia Hair & Beauty - RTO 32488


BLOG SPOT. Turning a New Page & LeaRning with Collette Saunders

I cannot begin writing without first reflecting on the turn of this decade and the tumultuous and tragic start it has been for Australians in the face of our bush fires. For nothing that divides us can compare with that which unites us, and the way in which we as a global community will rally to help those who suffer. So too our barbering community! From the small suburban shop to the large Barber Supply companies, fundraisers and assistance came flooding. Not surprising as we are people who have hands on in the personal lives of those who come to sit with us. We are tuned in to give not just a service, but compassion and assistance where it may be needed every day of the week! For when you call yourself “Barber” it should be remembered where we came from. Once healers and surgeons of the red and white stripes to modern day hands on, we may no longer let blood and remove teeth and tonsils, but we heal in other ways from and through the chair. Huge respect to all those who gave and continue to support. You know who you are! This year is shaping up to be a big one in the area of education in Barbering. Already I am seeing some exciting collaborations and offers from some of Australia’s best. Paragon Education @paragon. education will offer its first hands on in March in Melbourne with Tori Gill @torigill_barber and Jasmine Kathleen @jasminekathleen where classic will combine with creative cutting. Tori’s beautiful style and flow has been an inspiration for tens of thousands of followers. Jasmine has just returned from ISSE in Long Beach, California, where she showcased on stage with some of America’s iconic and most watched barbers. Her next stops are Japan and New York. Sarah Wall @sarahwall_industries is no stranger to platform and presentation and has received some of the best education, which makes her a very reputable for her online video posts. She is offering a full day hands on at Preston Guild in Sydney in March, where her clipper skill, her thinking outside of the box and sharp street edge will have creative juices flowing. Eoin McCarthy @eoinmccarthyhair is a familiar showcase face and kicks off his educational tour in Warrnambool/ Koroit in March also. Look out for his destinations throughout the year! Jake Putan @jakeputan has recently turned down major deals with top brands and celebrity offers, to pursue his own dreams. He offers in salon training and soon to come, online education. You can keep up to date by subscribing to his emailing list through the website link in his bio. In the pipeline also Australian Female Barbers and The Jack Reed Foundation are collaborating to bring a showcase and networking experience. This collab will also raise funds for JRF to establish the shipping container educational facility for apprenticeships for at risk and disadvantaged youth. Look out for

updates through the year to see this facility up and running before end of 2020. To see the progression of this Educational Barber Shop follow @jackreedfoundation for updates and sign up on their website. So, I dare say my personal word for the year will be “education”. At a time of life where I thought I knew everything .... just kidding.... I am looking forward to watching the people who inspire me make waves. There is a shift at the moment, that is molding people to become even more creative and blow out boundaries that have kept the barbering industry here locked in. It’s time to move outside of boxes and stereotypes. There is far too much imagination and capability in the minds and hands of our new generation of barbers. I see it every week and I love the direction it’s taking us in. While there are those entering the trade, I do acknowledge that there are those who become fed up with it as well, and the end of 2019 saw me speak with a few who left the industry entirely and embark on new career paths. Others teeter on the edge of “should I stay, or should I go”. There is a lot of truth in the saying “Love what you do”! For those who go, I completely understand and support, as I have experienced first-hand the agony and the ecstasy. So, what can we do to help stop this fall off in an industry that is already experiencing difficulty in filling staff places? “I’m not pretty enough for them to employ me!” “Nobody treats you with respect,” “Sydney is a ruthless barbering world!” “I’m always fighting for myself... too many egos!” “I love what I do but they [employers] always promise but don’t deliver!” “I feel like I’m gaslighted all the time!” “I need food on the table and a roof over my head. I hate going from. Barbershop to Barbershop!” We need to listen, actually hear them, and find good working solutions! To end on a positive note though, I would say... Do what you love, but don’t compromise the love you have for something because of someone else’s actions. Stay focused, stay connected, surround yourself with good people who share your enthusiasm and most of all, invest in yourself, through worthwhile education. Collette Saunders @collettecutthroats Founder @australianfemalebarbers Director @jackreedfoundation

56 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


BLOG SPOT.

Continuous Development & Training!

with Don De Sanctis

Continuous development and training are ideal in the barbering world as we are in an industry where fashion, products and techniques are constantly evolving. With the rise of social media, everyone wants the latest trends, including hair. To be successful in the barbering industry, you need to be up to date with trends and having the confidence to execute any styles and looks. Ensuring your skill set and knowledge also allows you to succeed with your clients every changing expectation. There are so many ways for development that you can do as a company, team or even on your own. • Reading the latest hair and fashion magazines • Attending hair and fashion shows • Competing in hair competitions • Watching hair tutorials via social media and YouTube • Practising on mannequins/models • Revising product knowledge As a salon owner/manager you need to keep on track of each staff member’s development and goals. The best way for a successful outcome is to sit with your team to communicate and identify the areas they wish to improve, along with expectations and time frames. By promoting a creative work environment, management need to monitor the team’s improvements and give feedback. When staff have reached their goals, they must be rewarded for their improvements. By achieving this, you will be helping create the potential for future development. Continuous development and training do not only benefit the individual, but it will also help maintain and grow the client retention. Client retention is what makes your business profitable. Just shows what continuous development and training can achieve and makes your business unstoppable.

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BLOG SPOT. #NOTJUSTRECYCLING

with Paul Frasca

2020 marks Sustainable Salons’ 5th birthday, which is an incredibly exciting milestone and one we’ve certainly not arrived at on our own. For that reason, this birthday celebration needs a toast. So, we’re raising our glasses to this big, sustainable family - here’s to the passion of our salon members and the loyalty of their clients, the innovation from our recyclers, the driven hearts of our charity partners, the spirit of our workforce, and the shared vision of all towards true sustainability. When we began the program five years ago, many people told us it wouldn’t work. On reflection, we think they were only imagining a single outcome: keeping salon waste out of landfill. We know we’ve preached this a number of times, but sustainability itself is only achieved when People, Planet and Profit (or Progress, if you like) are equally involved in the mission. We didn’t call the business ‘Recycling for Salons’ for a reason; it’s not our only future. As a social enterprise, Sustainable Salons has always championed that the salon industry’s capacity to make a real difference is so much greater. So if we’re #NotJustRecycling, then what are we? We are Above-ground Miners Rest assured, recycling is still a crucial part of the mix. But we’re driven towards a circular economy that conserves our planet’s natural resources and keeps what we’ve already dug up in circulation for as long as possible. Ideally, forever! Unless an item can be ‘digested’ by nature for nature’s benefit, then it shouldn’t go in the ground. So we take resources from the surface and find them a new life as something else we need/want/love! We are Problem-solvers Solution-driven projects are our bread and butter. We work hard to find recycling or repurposing opportunities for everything we collect from our salon members, which often sparks solutions that are completely unique. The Hair Boom Project is just one example of this; hair clippings have been worthless… until now. We also pour our problem-solving energy into business building and social benefit. Changing habits around product choice and community support is a tall task, but we’re committed to partnering with people and organisations that help us build attractive propositions that inform and inspire. Take our partnership with the World’s Greatest Shave - the valuable

hair and ponytails no longer end up in landfill, fundraisers can access hundreds of willing salons for help with their shave and salons are building future business opportunities as a result, a whole new industry is motivated to contribute to the cause, and we now have a platform to talk to millions of consumers about true sustainability. We are Life-changers One of Sustainable Salons’ greatest achievements is its workforce opportunities. Keeping the program’s wheels turning takes a wide variety of tasks and thanks to this, we’re hugely proud that we can employ unbiasedly. Our team includes entry-level and mature-aged workers (and everything in between), people with a disability, refugees, parents who need part-time, university-educated and tradespeople. As we grow, we’ll continue to set an example of how successful businesses can provide for all areas of the community. Beyond this, we change lives just by thinking outside the box and sharing what we have. Funds from the sale of recycling materials are donated to OzHarvest and KiwiHarvest to feed the hungry, we mobilise skilled volunteers to provide free grooming services for those less fortunate, and we equip our network with shared knowledge to help them run productive businesses using the sustainability model. Sustainability is a ‘living thing’; the needs under People, Planet and Progress are constantly evolving. So we have to be adaptable, cohesive and brave, three things we think our growing movement aces every day. And after five unpredictably awesome years, the impact is now tangible. Cheers to the next five and beyond! Keen to join the movement? Register your salon details at www.sustainablesalons.org!

58 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 1


Profile for Mocha Publishing

Barbershop year 9 issue 1  

BarberShop is a trade magazine specifically for mens barbers and mens hairdressers. Keeping up with trends and fashion as well as business a...

Barbershop year 9 issue 1  

BarberShop is a trade magazine specifically for mens barbers and mens hairdressers. Keeping up with trends and fashion as well as business a...