breathe completely free. Every hour, the duo move 10,800 times in one direction and just as often back. When moving the crown to the hand the vibrating system stops. After 72 hours at the latest, the tension spring of the 255-piece movement needs to be manually wound. At that time, a power reserve indicator at “12” lets you know this. Due to the three-dimensional architecture of the dial, the indications are particularly impressive. As a protective cover, Greubel Forsey uses a white gold case 39.6 millimeters in diameter. On the wrist, the front and back glazed case are 12.21 millimeters. It withstands water pressure up to three bar.
ETHICAL GOLD FOR A MECHANICAL DEVICE 2015 saw the birth of the largely handmade “Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1”. In the octagonal watch case with side portholes is the elaborate tourbillon caliber FB-T.FC. It is a 35.5 millimeter case and eight millimeters thick, with a manual wind movement and traditional chain-scroll system for the most constant driving force over approximately 53 hours. The patented center seconds are accompanied by an exceptionally constructed power reserve indicator. Prior to delivery, each watch which has been assembled from more than 420 components (excluding chain parts), must pass the official chronometer control COSC’s accuracy test. This mechanism brings to life a total of ten copies of the new “Œuvre d’Or” collection. Five watches each are available in white gold with titanium and rose gold lugs combined with black ceramic. The gold used comes from ethical production. A special eye-catcher is the dial made of hand-patinated rose gold.
THE MOON IN FRONT OF YOUR EYES The “Arceau L’heure de la lune” by Hermès is all about the moon phases. To display the northern and southern hemispheres the watchmakers have devised a special mechanism. It shows analogous indications for hour and minute as well as date against a backdrop of a meteorite circle. A full turn takes 59 days or two lunar cycles of 29.5 days each. The mother-of-pearl moons inlaid in stone show artistically designed motifs. The drive for the planetary time, date and moon mechanisms is an exclusive automatic caliber manufactured by Vaucher. The base unit H1837 with self-winding rotor is 3.7 mm flat. It consists of 193 individual parts. Its speed regulator performs 28,800 vibrations per hour. For one copy of the 4.2-millimeter-thick display module, it requires another 117 components. Hermès makes the protective case with a 43 mm diameter made out of 18-carat white gold. Scratch-resistant sapphire lenses at the front and back guarantee unalloyed joy. It is water resistant up to three bar pressure.
THE WHOLE DAY IN VIEW You definitely have to get used to reading this new watch from Frédérique Constant. Usually, the hour hand rotates once in twelve hours around its axis. In the “Classics Automatic 24 H”, the rotation takes twice as long. Thus, the owners have the entire day’s run in view. However, the tip of the hour hand is pointing vertically down at 12 noon. The orientation therefore supports a 24-hour dial. This type of time display is by no means new. For example, they previously used watch brands for scientific or military timepieces. Even pilots and astronauts were also given such indicators. Magic is not connected to to this mechanical device. Supplied by Sellita, the automatic caliber FC-332 with 38 hours of gear autonomy has only a modified pointer movement mechanism. The steel housing with a 43 mm diameter offers protection up to ten bar of water pressure.
THE BLUE LAGOON H. Moser & Cie has long propagated dials in the so-called fumé style. In this regard, the new “Endeavor Center Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon” is particularly striking. Due to the unmistakable appearance of the face, to place the signature in front of the turning centrally positioned hands for hours, minutes and seconds is superfluous. It has been shown that exquisite watchmaking is on the upturn. Behind the transparent case back operates the self-developed caliber HMC 200, which has been manufactured up to the balance and its coil under their own roof. With a diameter of 32 millimeters and a thickness of 5.5 millimeters, the automatic movement is not necessarily one of a delicate, but of a robust representative of its kind. A solid golden rotor tightens the main spring in both directions of rotation. After a full wind, the oeuvre ticks for at least three days with a moderate three hertz. The choice is yours regarding the housing material. Each of the 50 copies are available in white or pink gold. In either case, the watch case measures 40 mm.
COSMIC TIMEPIECE The word Hingucker applies fully to the “Bridges Cosmos” by Girard-Perregaux. Two imposing globes magically draw the eye. On the left, in the 48-millimeter housing, a blue-tinted Titan celestial globe reduces the cosmos to a wrist-friendly dimension. In 23 hours, 58 minutes and 4 seconds, that is, over the course of sidereal time, its axis turns around. For reasons of space, a restriction to the depiction of the stellar constellations of the zodiac is indispensable. At “3” Mother Earth makes her rounds. The surface bears a laser-engraved world map with recessed oceans and continents in relief. Together with a 24-hour scale positioned below, the illustrious mini-globe serves as a worldtime indicator. In the dark, this cosmic wristwatch is particularly impressive. Hours and minutes are a pair of hands at “12”. “To the south” of the complex manufactured hand-wound caliber GP09320 you are lured into pausing to observe the tourbillon. All settings are made using recessed controls in the case back. After being fully wound, there are approximately 60 hours of gear autonomy available. For the cosmic mechanisms 362 components are required.
THE SECOND UNICO “Unico” has christened Hublot’s 2010 launched chronograph caliber HUB 1242. The manufacturer now provides a thinner version of this debut piece. The HUB1280, also with rotor self-winding, comes up with several innovations. The completely redesigned automatic assembly makes a decisive contribution to reducing the thickness from 8.05 to 6.75 millimeters. The technicians also paid a great deal of attention to the time-writing mechanism under the dial. It is easier to mount and to view on the wrist. Furthermore, four patents relate to an innovative clutch system for connecting the chronograph to the ticking motor. Due to
MAJESTIC VIBRATIONS Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey love aesthetics, mechanical precision and craftsmanship. These maxims are followed by the “Balancier Contemporain” with a 12.6 millimeter Glucydur balance. Thanks to variable inertia, the indispensable coil can