VOLUME 1 ⁄ SPRING 2019
R U N D S C H AU M E D I E N . C H — E U R 9 . 5 0
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ART & CUL TURE
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DEAR LIFESTYLE FRIENDS
EDI TO RIAL
THE TIME IS NOW! I am very pleased to present our 1st edition of PRE for this year. As a valued and loyal reader, you’ve probably already noticed after the first few pages that PRESTIGE now has a new look and style. The time is ripe for us to break new ground with the magazine and publish an international edition in English 4 times per year as well. Time plays a central role in the first edition of PRE. Be it with the various new watches, as always expertly interpreted by our “Watchionista” Gisbert Brunner, or with beautiful portraits of the great watch brands Panerai and Breitling. We also devote ourselves to the death of Karl Lagerfeld, THE greatest fashion designer of the last 40 years, who shaped and revolutionized the fashion world like no one else. Next we dedicate ourselves to the myth of Harley-Davidson and take you on a journey through time with this incredible cult brand. We also report on the timeless elegance of brands such as Dom Perignon, the ultra-hip development of Off-White and the largest yacht broker in Europe, Ocean Independence. Also, not to forget, the various art stories where we cover the fascinating blue period currently on show in the Picasso exhibition at Fondation Beyeler, speak with Aurel Bacs, the “vintage” king of watches, or report upon the increasing influence of women in the world of art. This PRE edition will be rounded off with the latest trends in beauty, design, fashion and lifestyle. I think there will be something for every taste. Speaking of taste: Dear Charles Blunier’s team, thank you for the new dress you designed for PRE magazine, with the new layout and design – I think it fits perfectly! With this in mind, I wish you much pleasure, enjoyment and entertainment with the “new” Spring Edition of PRE! Marc A. Huerlimann Editor in Chief
Francesco J. Ciringione Publisher
ART & CUL TURE 25
ART & CULTURE
THE YOUNG PICASSO — AN ART EXHIBITION OF SUPERLATIVES The Fondation Beyeler in Riehen has completely transformed their entire museum into two exhibitions of Picasso. In Focus: the Blue and Rose Periods — the early creative years of the artist before he became world famous as one of the founders of Cubism. Text: NINA MERLI Portrait: MAN RAY (1932)
ART & CULTURE
“Young PICASSO — Blue and Rose Period” Fondation Beyeler, until 26.5.2019 Information and tickets: fondationbeyeler.com
This top-class Picasso show at the Fondation Beyeler is certain ly the highlight of the 2019 art year and will still be on view until the end of May. Never before have so many works of early Picasso – from the so-called Blue and Rose Periods between 1901–1906 – been presented together in Europe, and according to Beyeler, such a cornucopia of his sculptures and paintings probably will never be seen again. It took approximately four years to prepare for this exhibition, which brings together works that are rarely seen in public, such as the masterpiece “La Vie”, last exhibited in Switzerland about 35 years ago. This picture “deals with the formidable themes of human existence and is an incredibly moving painting,” says art historian Isabella Lauder-Frost, who works as an art consultant for Murphy & Partners. According to this Picasso expert, it is “essential for the visitor of this exhibition to remember that here we have the artist, at the age of 20, looking for his artistic identity”.
Nevertheless, “One should not see the two periods as separate oeuvres,” says Isabella Lauder-Frost, “as they flow into each other, soft pinks replace the blue tones, and the focus changes to a plethora of circus figures that are full of joy and hope”.
Four years of preparation and four billion worth of insurance The works of this early creative period have been provided by 41 lenders, including 28 museums from Europe and overseas, and have an insured value of four billion francs. It is the most elaborate and expensive project in the history of the Fondation Beyeler. Special attention should certainly be given to the paintings from private collections as they have rarely been seen in public. “For example, the monumental ‘Fillette à la corbeille fleurie’, an image with immense visual power,” explains Lauder-Frost. Also, an equally exciting story: In 1905, Gertrude and Leo Stein bought the oil painting of the young, naked girl – although at first Gertrude did not like the painting because she found the nude model’s feet disgusting. After Gertrude’s death, the painting changed hands over to Peggy and David Rockefeller, where it lingered for years in their living room. After David Rockefeller’s death, his art collection was auctioned at Christie’s, and among the bidders: the art collector David Nahmad, who bought the picture for 115 million dollars and, as a good friend of Beyeler director Sam Keller, has now lent the painting to the museum in Riehen.
Melancholy, hope and longing A search that began in 1900 when Pablo Picasso, just 19 years old, visited Paris for the first time together with his artist friend Carlos Casagemas. A few months later, when Picasso had returned to Spain, Casagemas took his own life. Picasso processed the death of his beloved friend in the picture “Evocation – The Funeral of Casagemas”. This decisive experience was the trigger for Picasso’s Blue Period, which is marked by grief, pain and the view of the human abyss. His artistic interest at that time applied to the marginal, the drunk and the needy, which he portrays in cool shades of blue. Only when the artist met Fernande Olivier in 1904, his new love and first partner, that his works regained their previous optimism.
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ART & CULTURE
THE SHINING ART OF L. GRAFF Text: MARC A. HUERLIMANN Photo: GRAFF
Laurence Graff ’s life is marked by a passion for diamonds. This dedication has been driving him for more than 60 years, starting in the Schindler jewelry workshop in Hatton Garden, London’s jewellery quarter. “I started as an apprentice when I was 15 and learned what I wanted to know in daily classes at the Central School of Arts and Crafts,” he recalls. 34
ART & CULTURE
The sense of unbridled freedom that you feel when you admire Twombly’s large-format works of art is also captured in a pair of dramatic ruby and diamond earrings. The gemstones swirl downwards with extra spirals, a radiant pear-shaped ruby thereby uniquely suspended. For more than half a century, Graff has been at the pinnacle of the high-end jewellery industry, discovering and crafting diamonds of brilliance and rarity. Founded in 1960 by Laurence Graff OBE, Graff is still a family business with Francois Graff, son of Laurence, acting as CEO. Two other family members also work in the firm, managing the design, merchandising and production departments. Throughout its rich history, Graff has become the leading global company for rare diamonds, in both size and distinction. Above all, the company has the largest collection with an illustrious history of the most important rough diamonds discovered in this century. Graff ’s jewelry collections and Unique High Jewels are designed and produced in their London studio. Above all, the Graff craftsmen use the exclusive stone-led design technique to highlight the beauty of each individual diamond.
Laurence Graff not only has a passion for gemstones, but also for the arts. It began with Impressionism in the 1970s. His first purchase was a small work by Auguste Renoir. Today, Laurence Graff is one of the most important collectors in the world and renowned for his expertise in modern art. His passion is primarily for the artists who revolutionized the 20th century art scene. His outstanding collection includes modern and contemporary masterpieces by such artists as Warhol, Haring and Basquiat. His love of this genre has greatly influenced the poetic new collection “Inspired by Twombly”. The calligraphic artwork of the late American artist Cy Twombly formed the creative starting point for the Graff designers. The idea of a contemporary masterpiece collection, completed by a spontaneous and improvised line of sparkling gems, was born. The latest creations – inspired by Twombly – play with the proportions of the loops and give the new collection a unique, feminine aesthetic. Even more natural are the liquid loops with round and invisibly set diamonds in emerald cut. Graff ’s classic yet inventive design aesthetic is crafted with great attention to detail. These exceedingly precious Twombly-inspired scribbles, like contemporary art, are thought-provoking.
WOMEN CONQUER THE ART MARKET What has long been regarded as an absolute male domain, is now being occupied by more women: whether as artists, curators or art collectors — women are increasingly setting the tone in the art world.
Text: NINA MERLI
ART & CULTURE
LOIE HOLLOWELL In 2017, â€?Bloomberg Magazineâ€? advised us to keep an eye on this New York based artist. Her expressive images deal with themes of sexuality: abstracting penises, breasts and vaginas while utilising strong colors and clear forms.
ART & CULTURE
PAMELA ROSENKRANZ Born in Uri, this artist has had a rapidly developing career: in 2004 she graduated from the University of the Arts in Bern, and eleven years later, in 2015, she was responsible for the Swiss Pavilion at the Venice Biennale. Until 20 March, this installation artist immerses the Zurich Fraumünster cloister in heavenly blue.
ART & CULTURE
CLAUDIA COMTE The Lausanne sculptor became famous by creating cactus sculptures out of tree trunks, which she mills with a chainsaw. Her international breakthrough came in 2014 after an exhibition at the New York gallery of Barbara Gladstone (Gladstone Gallery). Her collectors include various museums, as well as stars such as Leonardo DiCaprio.
ANICKA YI This concept artist from South Korea is famous for her installations which appeals to a variety of senses. Fragrances play a big role in her work. She is also known for using living and perishable materials in her art: fried tempura flowers, soap screens, fish oil pills and bacteria. In 2017, Yi had a solo exhibition at the Guggenheim Museum in New York.
ANNE IMHOF The German performance artist received the Golden Lion in 2017 for the German pavilion’s design at the Venice Biennale. This month, the Tate Modern in London honours this exceptional artist with a prominent position at the annual performance festival “BMW Tate Live”.
BRUTS Spigola alla griglia (2018)
ART & CULTURE
ART & CULTURE
MONREAL Pa amb tomàquet (2018)
â€œMy life in Rome has made food the centerpiece of my social life. Through the many delicacies a number of memories have stayed with me, which are closely related to the senses. This exhibition presents to posterity an implicit record of sociable roundtables, meals and new friendshipsâ€?, explains Ignasi Monreal (Barcelona, 1990) about Plats Bruts, his first exhibition at the Fresh Gallery.
The Catalan artist, who has illustrated advertising campaigns with an iPad as his only tool, is now taking the opposite route: from the digital to the tangible, from the touch screen to the canvas and oil paints. Current exhibition of Ignasi Monreal in the FRESH Gallery. Calle Conda de Aranda 5, Madrid, February 28, 2019.
ART & CULTURE
V. Dubossarsky & A. Vinogradov, Cosmonaut No. 1, 2006, ÂŠ Vladimir Dubossarsky und Erben Alexander Vinogradov; Lewis Morris Rutherfurd, Direkte Fotografie des Mondes am 10. Tag der Mondumlaufzeit
G I N A B E AV E R S « S M O K E Y E Y E T U T O R I A L » , 31 . 0 3 – 0 2 . 0 9 . 2 019 , M O M A . O R G
ART & CUL TURE 53
America has always been a desireable place. Settlers, gold diggers, missionaries and adventurers all lost themselves within its vast expanses. Even today you can still find areas that radiate this special magic — for example, throughout the Wild West.
TEXAS — ON THE ROAD IN THE WILD WEST 56
Photos: TEXAS TOURISM, ANNA KAROLINA STOCK
There are certain places that give rise to
DESERT LANDSCAPE WITH DIVERSE FLORA
meter of altitude the vegetation changes: from
something like wanderlust and the thirst
cacti to low level pine trees, then to juniper
for adventure, even if you are not a travel
Although the park with its 3,242 square kilo-
bushes which lead to a dense growth of oaks
lover. As far as rivers go, there are long ones
meters is one of the largest in the USA, there
and pines. “Anyone who imagines a landscape
such as the Amazon and the Rio Grande that
are not too many tourists who come to this cor-
like the Sahara will be surprised by the diver-
trigger travel fever. There is hardly anoth-
ner of the country each year, with only around
sity of the various flora,” says Robert Alvarez,
er river that connects so much with the
400,000 visitors. The UNESCO Biosphere Re-
representative of the Brewster County Tourism
Wild West as the latter. About two-thirds of
serve not only contains large sections of the
Council. After a long spring rain entire fields of
the more than 3,000 kilometers meander
Chihuahua Desert, a rain shadow desert, which
wildflowers are blooming with 250 kilometers
through the state of Texas and form a nat-
with an area of around 453,000 square kilo-
of a winding network of hiking trails.
ural border between the United States and
meters is considered the largest of all North
Mexico. Much of the river is located in the
American deserts, but also the central massif
NIGHT SKY OVER THE LONE STAR STATE
Big Bend National Park and can be explored
of the Chisos Mountains with their slopes be-
Matching its nickname, the “Lone Star State,”
by boat or horse.
coming ever greener as you ascend. With every
Texas, and especially the Big Bend National
Park, is a unique place to gaze into the stars. If
the mines closed, Terlingua became a ghost
you spend the night in a tent after a long tour
town. It was not until the sixties that hippies,
through the Chihuahua Desert and look up into
artists and adventurous dropouts populated
the night sky, you will understand why the Na-
the area and breathed new life into it. In the
tional Park was designated a “Dark Sky Park”
evening people meet up in the quaint Starlight
in 2012. Far and wide, there is a sparkling sky
Theater, a former cinema that today has be-
with no trace of light pollution. “That’s because
come a saloon. There are hanging ceiling fans
few people make their way to this deserted
and mounted cattle skulls on the walls. The
area,” explains Alvarez. No one ends up here
chipped plaster spreads the “Old Texan” charm
accidentally. The nearest big city is Dallas and
from the good old days of mercury.
its almost an eight-hour drive away.
As lonely as it may be in the ghost
town, once a year Terlingua becomes an inWITH A ROW BOAT TO MEXICO
ternational meeting place: every November
Because of its seclusion, the Big Bend National
more than 10,000 visitors come to the Big
Park is a very special venue. In addition, it is
Bend region to attend the “International Chili
home to the most unusual border crossing in
Cook-off”. What began as a duel between two
the US: Mexico is only five rows across the
chefs in 1967 has over the years blossomed
Rio Grande. The border river is so narrow and
into a fiery cooking duel of world renown. As
shallow that you could even wade through it. A
the mood takes you, Chili con Carne is cooked
fence, patrols by the US Homeland Security or
to the brim and above all, life is celebrated.
long queues at passport control do not exist. Instead, two nice park rangers take a quick look at our papers before we move on to the rowboat – jokingly calling it the “International Ferry Service”. Arriving on the Mexican shore the skipper, Juan Pérez, collects five dollars and hands us back a tiny ticket for the return trip. From there, the nearest village, Boquillas del Carmen, is merely a ten-minute donkey ride away, simple mud houses line the way, a small medical station, a school, a single switchboard and two restaurants. The villagers have had electricity since 2015, says boatman Pérez proudly, while a Mexican border guard simultaneously stamps entry and exit: “so you do not have to come back this way.”
Nowhere else is the border crossing
between the US and Mexico as straightforward as in the Big Bend National Park. If you want, you can effortlessly cross the border. Nevertheless, there is no trace of illegal immigration, drugs or weapons smuggling. “There is simply no infrastructure, no roads or trans-shipment points that would be needed for a large-scale, illegal business,” explains Pérez. The nearest town is more than 150 kilometers away and hardly accessible on foot. Spanish explorers, who searched the region for mineral resources in the 16th century, soon gave up and baptized it “El Despoblado”, the uninhabited land. In keeping with the cliché of a typical western film, from time to time a “tumbleweed” of dried plants rolls over the wide unforested plain. WORLD RENOWNED GHOST TOWN Terlingua is similarly quiet and relaxed, located just outside the National Park. In the 1920s, the thriving mining town still supplied 40 percent of the national mercury revenue, but after
ART AND CULTURE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOW HERE Similar to ghost towns, artist villages are real tourist magnets, of course depending on how picturesque they are or who lives and works there. The desert town of Marfa is such an artist hotspot and shows the culturally modern side of the Lone Star State. The foundation was created by New York minimalist Donald Judd (sculptor, painter and architect) as he turned the sleepy Marfa into his personal retreat and brought abstract art from progressive New York to the Texan pampas (treeless plains). Nowadays, the former military site that Judd bought in the early 1970s is the “Chinati Foundation”. In addition to his own works, there are also light installations by minimalist Dan Flavin and two oversized copper circles by the artist Roni Horn.
“To really visit all the artworks in
and around Marfa, you should take one day, better two,” recommends Alvarez. Also, you will need a car. On US Highway 90 at Valentine you will find probably the most photographed art object in the region: “Prada Marfa”, an installation by the Danish-Norwegian artist duo Elmgreen & Dragset, which is a Prada showcase in which you can see the autumn 2005 shoe collection. The fact that thousands of dollars worth of shoes are on display in the middle of nowhere does not only convey a critique of consumerism, but also the absurdity of the exaggerated brand culture. Something more bizarre than a Prada store in the desert is hardly possible. The research trip for this post was supported by Travel Texas.
While influencers from all over the world are posing for photos in the Infinity pool of the Bürgenstock Hotel, you can relax in the modern Waldhotel just 300 meters away — and enjoy w orld-class beauty treatments on request.
Text: NINA MERLI Photo: STEFFI HIDBER
TIME OUT 65
Information Waldhotel Bürgenstock Resort 6363 Obbürgen buergenstock.ch We recommend arriving with the hotel’s own shuttle ship from Lucerne: The journey with the legendary Bürgenstock funicular railway directly to the resort is already worthwhile.
“Healthy by Nature” is the name of the concept
The products developed by a US dermatologist
which is lived in the light-flooded Waldhotel
are among the best and most potent derma-
in Obbürgen. Although holistic well-being is
cosmetics on the market. That’s why Skin-
a new concept, the focus of the hotel, with its
ceuticals can only be bought from selected
own clinic, is to live as much as possible in the
dermatologists including here in the bright,
natural cycle of day and night, wakefulness
well-stocked Waldboutique shop. Insider tip:
and rest, activity and relaxation. Especially in
take the “C E Ferulic Serum” as a souvenir;
connection with the check-up programs and
it’s not for nothing that it’s hyped in skincare
healthy aging stays, it is a real luxury for both
forums as an anti-aging wonder!
body and spirit.
As green as the spectacular views
can also be enjoyed on the spot. After a thor-
are from the 138 rooms and suites (all with
ough skin analysis with a black light camera,
mountain view and private balcony) there are
we were able to enjoy a relaxing “Deluxe An-
also the real stars of the Waldhotel: Plants play
tioxidant Revitalizing Treatment” (60 min,
a crucial role in the Waldhotel, whether as a
CHF 207.-) by the gifted hands of a Skinceu-
central element of the spa and wellness treat-
ticals expert from the Waldhotel – and then,
ments, as a tea – ideally enjoyed in the har-
after a light lunch at the hotel’s own Verbena
monious library – or in the form of the many
Restaurant, we enjoyed the picturesque drive
watercolors and illustrations that decorate the
home via the Bürgenstock funicular railway
Waldhotel. Incidentally, these are the work of
and hotel shuttle ship, with a beautiful glow.
Italian star architect Matteo Thun, who also
designed the unique façade of the Waldhotel:
four hotels has rightly become one of the top
the wooden gabion construction, which is
destinations for wellness and enjoyment in
the largest of its kind in the world, attracts
the nearly two years since its overall reno-
everyone’s attention from the outside as well
vation. Whoever thinks that the Waldhotel –
as from inside, in one of the pergolas, radiat-
nestled behind the dramatic cliff face above
ing a dazzling modernity that is unbelievably
Lake Lucerne – is simply the “healthy branch”
natural and warm at the same time.
of the Bürgenstock hotel, misses out on an
Of course, the unique care products
The Bürgenstock Resort with its
absolute pearl of rest and tranquility, which is BETWEEN CALMNESS AND HIGH TECH: THE
only disturbed by the cow bells on the nearby
The harmonious Waldhotel Spa is by no means small, but is much more intimate than its hip “big brother”, the 10,000 square foot Alpine Spa of the Bürgenstock hotel next door. The Waldhotel-Spa offers an indoor and outdoor pool with relaxing views of the Alps, Salt Grotto, Kneipp basins and various saunas and hammams. The use of the perfectly equipped wellness area is free for guests of the Waldhotel; and for a small extra charge, the “big” Alpine can also be used. But why wander into the (perceived) distance, if you already have everything here at the Waldhotel, and in wonderful peace and quiet?
The Waldhotel Spa’s signature treat-
ments include a variety of body treatments – from stimulating detox massages, which include a sweaty stay in the “Vital Dome Daybed”, to refreshing and ground-breaking “Body & Face Rejuvenation” treatments using 100% natural products from Susanne Kaufmann.
For us, however, the two-day short
stay at the Waldhotel put beauty first because the Waldhotel-Spa not only has its own clinic for dermatology, but also leads to a whole series of high-tech treatment methods. The main attraction for us? The first “Skinceuticals” skincare boutique in Switzerland which opened in 2018.
Become a Residence Owner at The Chedi Andermatt The 5-star Deluxe Hotel The Chedi Andermatt, perfectly combining authentic Alpine chic with Asian style elements, is one of the best hotels in Europe. The long list of awards, including “Best Holiday Hotel Switzerland”, “Best Mountain Resort Worldwide”, “Most Indulgent Spa”, “Best Hospitality Design Hotel” or “Best Winelist of Switzerland” confirms its unique quality. Join the success story by becoming a Residence Owner: The stylishly furnished Residences are perfectly designed by award-winning architect Jean-Michel Gathy, They offer 95 m² to 240 m² living space including luxurious finishes and full equipment at purchase prices starting from CHF 15’500 per m².
Penthouses with 189 m² to 616 m² living space come unfurnished allowing buyers to create the interior design individually. Benefits such as membership in the private spa, underground parking with valet service, concierge or ski-butler are included. Owners have the option to participate in the hotel rental program. No restrictions apply to foreigners to buy property freehold or to use the Residence as a second home.
Please contact for detailed information or a viewing on site: +41 (0)41 888 06 06
VA L E N T I N O . C O M
WAT CHES & JEWEL LERY 71
Watches Spring 2019: Ticking novelties from A. Lange & Sรถhne to Zenith Text: GISBERT L. BRUNNER
Vacheron-Constantin: Traditionnelle TwinBeat 3200T
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
The good old mechanical watches are alive and well, and keep on evolving. This is demon strated by new factories and innovative materials for measuring our precious time.
MB & F: HM6 Final Edition
There are many different kinds of ‘watch’ people. There are those who do not like to have a timepiece on their wrist and prefer to look at their mobile phone. Others rely on electronics and smart functions. Thirdly, there are plenty of our contemporaries with a pronounced weakness for the traditional mechanisms, their passion is based on nostalgia, the preservation of value and the ability to pass on a good piece to their offspring, and many don’t even care if it is accurate to the split second. This is precisely the group the luxury watch industry is focusing upon. In the middle of January renowned manufacturers revealed their new watches at the Geneva Watch Fair SIHH and at the end of March, Baselworld will open its doors. The trends for 2019 are the retro look, that is, the return to the good old (watch) days: traditional, innovative and intricate watchmaking, as well as a focus on colors. Blue in all its tones and shades is the new black. In the case of housings, new materials are provided for desirability. Smart managers know that if they offer a variety, they will get something back in return.
250 WATCHES FOR THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY It will be 25 years old in 2019, the iconographic “Lange 1” by A. Lange & Söhne. Reasons for their continued success can be seen not least in the asymmetrically designed dial and the striking large date. For more than 20 years, the manual winding caliber L.901 with two barrels, three days of gear autonomy and a hand-engraved balance cock have made the hearts of sophisticated watch lovers beat faster. 2015 brought the newly developed manufacture caliber L121.1. Nothing changed with the basic facts including the characteristic appearance. However, the large date automatically changes exactly at midnight. Also new, is the balance with variable inertia and a free-swinging coil. Equipped with these mechanisms, the traditional German manufacturer offers 250 copies of a white gold “Lange 1” for its 25th anniversary. The distinctive feature of the birthday edition, amongst others, is in the specially designed hinge base. It pays tribute to Günther Blümlein and Walter Lange, to whom the company owes its successful renaissance and the “Lange 1”. Behind the sapphire crystal is the movement which is hand-engraved and the blue balance cock bearing the number 25. MAXIMUM TIMEKEEPING, TOTAL TRANSPARENCY Resonance helps Armin Strom’s new ARF17 manufacture caliber reach remarkable precision. Strictly speaking, the cross-oval housing contains two juxtaposed movements, each with a pair of energy storage units, 110 hours of gear autonomy and an unusual 3.5 Hertz balance frequency. The ocillatiing system consists of a balance and balance spring which are connected by a patented, certified resonance clutch spring. This causes a 15 to 20
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
percent higher degree of accuracy. With this complex construction, which in total requires 419 mechanical components, two separate and independently adjustable time displays go hand in hand. You can read hours, minutes and the current remaining power reserve. In the middle there is also a 24-hour indicator. No less extravagant is the cross-oval sapphire case which offers full transparency, measures 59 × 43.4 millimeters including straps and resists water pressure up to five bar.
are beige Super LumiNova luminescent. Incidentally, the chosen typography corresponds to that of the analog counter in the aircraft cockpit. 42 millimeters is the length of the sides of the ceramic housing. Each of the 999 watches comes with two straps: rubber and durable synthetic fabric. IT DOES NOT GET ANY SLIMMER Added to the complication of the ultra-slim design is the mechanical version of the Bulgari manufactory caliber BVL 288. The 1.95 millimeter flat movement has a “flying”, that is only a rear, mounted tourbillon. In this construction, no bridge disturbs the view of the filigree rotation. In addition, the ticking mechanic touch automatically winds. Held by three micro-ball bearings, the flywheel moves around the complex movement with 52 hours of gear autonomy. The function of the overlying crown can be preselected by means of a push button on the right-hand side of the case: for winding or positioning the hands. Last but not least, the lightweight of the limited edition of the 50 “Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic Carbon” is also captivating. For a total of only 3.95 millimeters thick and 42 millimeters in length, Bulgari uses a housing and linked band, as the name promises, of multi-layer, high-strength CTP carbon fiber. Through the large, transparent display back, the mechanics are revealed in all their magnificence.
NEW STOPPER FROM LE BRASSUS It’s called 4401 and is the new chronograph movement by Audemars Piguet. The self-winding function is provided by a double-action inertia ball of 22-carat gold mounted with small ceramic balls. A single tension spring lets the balance oscillate at four hertz for about 70 hours. Thus, the integrated time-writer with ratchet and vertical clutch stops exactly to the eighth of a second. The totalisers, lasting up to 30 minutes and 12 hours, lie on a horizontal line from “9” to “3”. Immediate restart without intermediate pause and zero allows for a flyback feature. At “6” the permanent second rotates. Between “4” and “5” you will find the window date. The debut results in the no less impressive new watch line “Code 11.59”. Its round case, available in rosé and white gold, with perforated lugs and octagonal middle section, is intended to make life difficult for product pirates. An emphatically narrow bezel holds the double-curved and anti-reflective sapphire crystal. There is a tachymetric scale on the inner ring.
STOPPER WITH TRADITION In 1904 Louis Cartier created the “Santos” for his friend, the aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. Consequently, it is the wristwatch with the longest uninterrupted history. Thanks to the patented “QuickSwitch” system, the newest generation makes changing straps child’s play. In addition, the length of the linked strap can be easily adjusted by itself with “SmartLink”. The Geneva watch salon SIHH 2019 brought an addition to the family in the form of the steely “Santos chronograph” with ADLC-coated bezel. Its automatic caliber 1904-CH MC looks back on a more than six-year history. Ratchet wheel control, power-saving friction clutch, a 30-minute and 12-hour counter are among the features of the exclusive movement. Two barrels store power for 48 hours of gear autonomy. Four Hertz balance frequency allow eighth-second stops. The watchmakers need a total of 269 components just for one copy. The technicians have positioned the start/stop button on the left side of the case. The zeroing is done by pressure on the exact opposite crown.
WITH BAUME & MERCIER THROUGH THE YEAR Baume & Mercier offers a small horological perpetual. The new automatic caliber BM13-1975AC-1 carries a perpetual calendar by the experienced specialist Dubois-Dépraz on its front and thus under the dial with a porcelain look. Small hands represent date, day of the week and month. Concentric to the month hand turns a small disc with a black arrow. The same one tells whether it is a year with 365 or, if red, one with 366 days. The light phases of the moon can be read in a window above the “6”. In contrast to the calendar, which theoretically lasts for 80 years without correction, this indication deviates every four years by just one day from the astronomical norm. All settings can be made with the help of a small push button on the side of the classic round rose gold case. Through the display back, the base movement can be seen, with rotor lift, a high-performance escapement made of silicon and five days of gear autonomy. It is responsible for displaying the hours, minutes and seconds as well as the daily update of the calendar movement.
REGULATOR WITH A VIEW Like salt to the sea, the regulator belongs to Chronoswiss, and now for 31 years. The name is reminiscent of precision pendulum clocks with a decentralized hour hand. In 1994, the first “Grand Régulateur” was launched. In the run-up to Baselworld 2019, the family business, now based in Lucerne, is presenting a new version of its “Flying Grand Regulator Skeleton”. Eye-catching qualities not only feature the 44 millimeter steel case, but also the perforated design of the hand-wound Caliber C. 677S. The basis for this is the well-proven manual winding caliber Eta 6498 with a diameter of barely 37 millimeters. Masculine impressions allows for a dynamic coloring. A noteworthy detail is the red stub at the back end of the central minute hand. Together with a small mirror-inverted minute scale, it replaces the indexation that covers the gold-colored hour ring. The edition is limited to 30 copies.
DESIGN IN THE SERVICE OF READABILITY Bell & Ross has been creating functional instrumental looks since its inception. A square case with four striking screws and round dials ensure that the wristwatches of the BR03 line are highly recognizable. This also applies to the new “BR03-92 Bi-Compass”. Here the practiced reduction to analogue representation of hours, minutes and seconds as well as a window date suggest a comparatively simple timepiece. But that is not the case. Impeccable function in all situations requires some effort. In order for the hour disc with a green, noctilucent arrowhead to not touch the dial, it must be light and turn absolutely flat. Behind the automatic caliber BR-302 is concealed a flat Sellita SW-300 with 38 hours of gear autonomy. The minute and second hands
breathe completely free. Every hour, the duo move 10,800 times in one direction and just as often back. When moving the crown to the hand the vibrating system stops. After 72 hours at the latest, the tension spring of the 255-piece movement needs to be manually wound. At that time, a power reserve indicator at “12” lets you know this. Due to the three-dimensional architecture of the dial, the indications are particularly impressive. As a protective cover, Greubel Forsey uses a white gold case 39.6 millimeters in diameter. On the wrist, the front and back glazed case are 12.21 millimeters. It withstands water pressure up to three bar.
ETHICAL GOLD FOR A MECHANICAL DEVICE 2015 saw the birth of the largely handmade “Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1”. In the octagonal watch case with side portholes is the elaborate tourbillon caliber FB-T.FC. It is a 35.5 millimeter case and eight millimeters thick, with a manual wind movement and traditional chain-scroll system for the most constant driving force over approximately 53 hours. The patented center seconds are accompanied by an exceptionally constructed power reserve indicator. Prior to delivery, each watch which has been assembled from more than 420 components (excluding chain parts), must pass the official chronometer control COSC’s accuracy test. This mechanism brings to life a total of ten copies of the new “Œuvre d’Or” collection. Five watches each are available in white gold with titanium and rose gold lugs combined with black ceramic. The gold used comes from ethical production. A special eye-catcher is the dial made of hand-patinated rose gold.
THE MOON IN FRONT OF YOUR EYES The “Arceau L’heure de la lune” by Hermès is all about the moon phases. To display the northern and southern hemispheres the watchmakers have devised a special mechanism. It shows analogous indications for hour and minute as well as date against a backdrop of a meteorite circle. A full turn takes 59 days or two lunar cycles of 29.5 days each. The mother-of-pearl moons inlaid in stone show artistically designed motifs. The drive for the planetary time, date and moon mechanisms is an exclusive automatic caliber manufactured by Vaucher. The base unit H1837 with self-winding rotor is 3.7 mm flat. It consists of 193 individual parts. Its speed regulator performs 28,800 vibrations per hour. For one copy of the 4.2-millimeter-thick display module, it requires another 117 components. Hermès makes the protective case with a 43 mm diameter made out of 18-carat white gold. Scratch-resistant sapphire lenses at the front and back guarantee unalloyed joy. It is water resistant up to three bar pressure.
THE WHOLE DAY IN VIEW You definitely have to get used to reading this new watch from Frédérique Constant. Usually, the hour hand rotates once in twelve hours around its axis. In the “Classics Automatic 24 H”, the rotation takes twice as long. Thus, the owners have the entire day’s run in view. However, the tip of the hour hand is pointing vertically down at 12 noon. The orientation therefore supports a 24-hour dial. This type of time display is by no means new. For example, they previously used watch brands for scientific or military timepieces. Even pilots and astronauts were also given such indicators. Magic is not connected to to this mechanical device. Supplied by Sellita, the automatic caliber FC-332 with 38 hours of gear autonomy has only a modified pointer movement mechanism. The steel housing with a 43 mm diameter offers protection up to ten bar of water pressure.
THE BLUE LAGOON H. Moser & Cie has long propagated dials in the so-called fumé style. In this regard, the new “Endeavor Center Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon” is particularly striking. Due to the unmistakable appearance of the face, to place the signature in front of the turning centrally positioned hands for hours, minutes and seconds is superfluous. It has been shown that exquisite watchmaking is on the upturn. Behind the transparent case back operates the self-developed caliber HMC 200, which has been manufactured up to the balance and its coil under their own roof. With a diameter of 32 millimeters and a thickness of 5.5 millimeters, the automatic movement is not necessarily one of a delicate, but of a robust representative of its kind. A solid golden rotor tightens the main spring in both directions of rotation. After a full wind, the oeuvre ticks for at least three days with a moderate three hertz. The choice is yours regarding the housing material. Each of the 50 copies are available in white or pink gold. In either case, the watch case measures 40 mm.
COSMIC TIMEPIECE The word Hingucker applies fully to the “Bridges Cosmos” by Girard-Perregaux. Two imposing globes magically draw the eye. On the left, in the 48-millimeter housing, a blue-tinted Titan celestial globe reduces the cosmos to a wrist-friendly dimension. In 23 hours, 58 minutes and 4 seconds, that is, over the course of sidereal time, its axis turns around. For reasons of space, a restriction to the depiction of the stellar constellations of the zodiac is indispensable. At “3” Mother Earth makes her rounds. The surface bears a laser-engraved world map with recessed oceans and continents in relief. Together with a 24-hour scale positioned below, the illustrious mini-globe serves as a worldtime indicator. In the dark, this cosmic wristwatch is particularly impressive. Hours and minutes are a pair of hands at “12”. “To the south” of the complex manufactured hand-wound caliber GP09320 you are lured into pausing to observe the tourbillon. All settings are made using recessed controls in the case back. After being fully wound, there are approximately 60 hours of gear autonomy available. For the cosmic mechanisms 362 components are required.
THE SECOND UNICO “Unico” has christened Hublot’s 2010 launched chronograph caliber HUB 1242. The manufacturer now provides a thinner version of this debut piece. The HUB1280, also with rotor self-winding, comes up with several innovations. The completely redesigned automatic assembly makes a decisive contribution to reducing the thickness from 8.05 to 6.75 millimeters. The technicians also paid a great deal of attention to the time-writing mechanism under the dial. It is easier to mount and to view on the wrist. Furthermore, four patents relate to an innovative clutch system for connecting the chronograph to the ticking motor. Due to
MAJESTIC VIBRATIONS Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey love aesthetics, mechanical precision and craftsmanship. These maxims are followed by the “Balancier Contemporain” with a 12.6 millimeter Glucydur balance. Thanks to variable inertia, the indispensable coil can
WATCHES & JEWELLERY Baume & Mercier: Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar 10470
Girard-Perregaux: Bridges Cosmos Soldat
its evolution, the number of components has climbed from 330 to 354. What remains are 30 millimeters in diameter, three days of autonomy and four Hertz balance frequencies. The debut of the new movement, among the other innovations, takes center stage in the “Big Bang Unico Titanium White”. With a flattering appearance and a mere 42 millimeters in diameter, this titanium-white, synthetic resin timepiece also fits feminine wrists.
The complicated movement includes the battle ax-like platinum flywheel consisting of 475 components. In 2019, the time-travel of this wristwatch with dimensions of 51 × 50 × 22.7 millimeters will be irrevocably complete. Exactly eight copies in steel of the “HM6 Final Edition” will be produced. EVERLASTING PARTNERSHIP When Minerva joined Montblanc, the 2007 calendar showed the design heritage of the manufactory, founded in 1858, which reflects the Montblanc “Heritage” line. One of the highlights of the collection is a wristwatch with a newly developed calendar movement. You do not have to correct it until the end of February 2100. Hands represent the date, day of the week, month and leap year cycle. In addition, there is a moon phase indication above the “6”. The adjustment after disuse occurs with the help of the crown. Operating errors are counteracted by a sophisticated protective device. Also uncommon is a time zone capacity with an additional, independently adjustable hour hand and 24-hour display. The ticking base for the assembled 378 parts of the MB 29.22 is the automatic caliber 1904 by Cartier. It has two barrels, 48 hours of gear autonomy and four hertz balance frequency. The 40-millimeter see though case back is water resistant up to five bar. Before leaving the factory, each Heritage Perpetual Calendar must complete a 500-hour quality and accuracy check.
PERPETUAL FOR PILOTS IWC’s expertise in aviation watches goes back more than 80 years. In this context, the good old “Spitfire” will be honoured in 2019. “The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire” is named after the legendary British fighter plane. On your wrist you find this expressive bolide with a 46.2 millimeters large bronze case. Inside the watch case, with titanium base and six bar pressure density, is revealed the skill of the in-house mechanics in the form of the caliber 52615. When the self-winding rotor with Pellaton rectifier has filled the two barrels, the clock runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour for seven days. So that pilots do not get into a spin, a power reserve indicator lets you know the respective energy supply. The calendar, which will last until 2100, shows the date, day of the week, month and year. Almost perpetual accuracy characterizes the display of the moon phases over both hemispheres. It lasts 577.5 years. For all indications, including of course, hours, minutes and seconds, aviation enthusiasts look through a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. All in all, the Schaffhausen manufacturer produced 250 copies.
SUBMERGED WITH ORIS Better safe than sorry. According to this motto, the DLC-coated titanium case of the Oris “Dive Control Limited Edition Chronograph” withstands the pressure of the wet element up to ten bar, converted, 1000 meters diving depth. Underwater readability plays an important role. The same is guaranteed by the unmistakable indexing on the dark dial, expressive hands and the generous use of Super LumiNova luminescent material. So that nothing happens when ascending from great depths, there is a helium valve on the left side of the case. Of course, the dive time of the rotating bezel, with ceramic inlay, can only be turned counterclockwise. Inadvertent adjustment is counteracted by a patented security system. In addition to the case bottom and the crown, the push buttons for operating the automatic chronograph are also bolted to the case. The built-in caliber Oris 774 is the proven SW 500 from Sellita. The delivery of only 500 copies takes place in a waterproof box. In addition to an additional rubber strap, it also contains the necessary tool for changing straps.
SPHERICAL ROTATION AND MORE It was no coincidence that it takes its name from the “Gyrotourbillon 1” introduced in 2004. Spherical movements allow two ultra-light bogies to balance the negative effects of Earth’s gravity in virtually every position on the watch. But the new “Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel”, by Jaeger-LeCoultre, can do a lot more. The hand-wound caliber 184 with 50 hours of gear autonomy can be found in the 43-millimeter white gold case. The technicians have succeeded in considerably reducing the dimensions of the bogies for a “bella figura” (beautiful shape) on your wrist. A constant-force drive counteracts the continuously decreasing torque of the energy store. In addition, the range of complications includes, use of a crown; and a perpetual, adjustable calendar with date, weekday, month and year. At the press of a button, the minute repeater jumps into action. The presentation of the quarter of the hour takes place with the sound of London’s famous Big Ben. Despite all of the mechanical complexities the white gold case’s diameter is only 43 millimeters.
RETROGRADE MEANS DISENGAGING Much to discover is the guilloche dial of the new “Toric Quantième Perpétuel Retrograde Slate” by Parmigiani Fleurier. Three of the centrally positioned hands represent the hours, minutes, and seconds. The fourth, with a red crescent-shaped end, indicates the date. Day by day it gradually wanders from left to right. At the end of the month, no matter how long, it automatically jumps back to the “1”. Consequently, the calendar of the 5.5 mm flat automatic caliber PF317 with 50 hours of gear autonomy can be described as “perpetual”. Two rectangular windows show the days of the week and months. The round display below “12” applies to the leap year cycle. The indication of the light phases of the moon stays over both hemispheres of the globe. Only 122 years later, the Aventurine-Quartz disk
COMPLEX TIME MACHINE When MB & F released the “Horological Machine No. 6” into the chronometric universe, the calendar displayed 2014. The design of the HM6 with the nickname “Space Pirate” is designed to withstand impacts of several G, strong acceleration and deceleration, dangerous radiation and extreme temperature differences. On the front, there are spherical displays for the indication of hours and minutes. Similar “turbines” on the back regulate the speed of the winding rotor on the bottom. The “flying” tourbillon is perched at the top. With the help of the left mounted crown, a two-piece dome can protectively arch over the delicate turning.
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deviates from the astronomical norm by a whole day. Parmigiani embraces the mechanics of 414 components with a 42.5 mm red gold case.
Automobile design elements are taken for granted in the skeletonized design. At the top, the balance of the self-developed RD 630 automatic caliber assembled from 233 components performs 28,800 vibrations per hour. For optical reasons, the oscillations occur at an angle of a twelve degree arc. The Geneva stamp guarantees the adherence to exactly defined quality criteria including a maximum deviation of one minute per week. For the 45-millimeter case, titanium and rubber are used. You can dive with it up to 50 meters. On the inside of the rubber strap, with gray Alcantara inlay, the profile of the Pirelli “P Zero Trofeo R” tire counteracts sweat-induced aquaplaning.
PLATEAU ON THE WRIST The Altiplano from Peru to Chile serves Piaget as the patron goddess for a line of watches launched in 1998. Creative restraint also applies to the current “Altiplano” generation. One of the latest models also brings a piece of heaven to your wrist in the 40-millimeter rose gold model, whose hands rotate for hours and minutes in front of a gray meteorite dial with rose-gold line markers. A representative of the 120xP caliber family presented in 2010 serves as a time-saving drive. Specifically, it is three-millimeter thin 1203P with 29.9 millimeters in diameter, has a factory integrated gold rotor, 44 hours of gear autonomy, three Hertz balance frequency and window date. Watchmakers need 209 components for one copy. After 300 copies, the production of this wristwatch ends.
MECHANIC SOUL MADE OF CARBON At TAG Heuer, years of research and development have led to a completely new balance spring. It is not made of metal or silicon, but of an innovative carbon composite material. Specifically, they are carbon nanotubes, i.e. small hollow bodies of pure carbon with a diameter of less than 1 / 10,000th of a millimeter. Their modulus of elasticity is up to five, the tensile strength 15 which is much higher than steel. Added to this is its extremely low density. These properties as well as resistance to magnetic fields, temperature fluctuations and violent impacts make the material virtually predestined for the production of patented CNTMC (Carbon Nano Tubes Matrix Composite) balance springs. The first series products are inspired by the “Carrera Caliber Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph”. Its automatic caliber 02T measures 31 millimeters. At “6”, the tourbillon cage made of yellow anodized aluminum rotates 360 degrees every minute. Inside, the eccentric balance with variable inertia made of the same material performs 28,800 vibrations per hour. A heavy metal ball bearing rotor biases the tension spring in one direction of rotation. The energy supply is sufficient for 65 hours of gear autonomy. Prior to installation in the 45 mm titanium case with black PVD coating, each movement must prove its accuracy at the Chronometerprüfstelle COSC. The bezel of the up to ten bar waterproof case is made of carbon.
TRIBUTE TO A GREAT DESIGNER Titanium, which was first used by Ferdinand-Alexander Porsche in 1980 for wrist watch cases, will also be used by Porsche Design in 2019. In the context of the presentation of the new 911, the “911 Chronograph Timeless Machine Limited Edition” is available. Its design takes on the streamlined shape of a powerful racing car. Lightweight construction and ergonomics are a matter of course. The three hands for the stop function are completely red or red tipped. The permanent second at “9” is replaced by a smart function display. The words “Timeless Machine” move through the circle segment while the movement is running. The reference to the car and the limitation of this model is expressed by the hourly totalizer at “6”. If you look closely, you will discover the number 11 as well as the number 9. Porsche Design makes no compromises when it comes to the built-in movement. It is the Valjoux 7750, which has proven itself millions of times over, and which brought life to the first Porsche design chronograph in 1973.
FROM FREAKS FOR FREAKS Ulysse Nardin connects back to the revolutionary “freak” carousel of 2001 with the new “Freak X”, a slimmed down and much cheaper version. The diameter of the titanium case with blue DLC coating has shrunk from 45 to 43 millimeters. In contrast to the original model with manual winding through the rotation of the bottom and bezel-hand positions, the operation is now entirely is done with the crown. What has remained is the basic construction of the manual wind movement with 72 hours of gear autonomy. Its baguette-shaped component with oscillating system and the now classic lever escapement revolves around itself once per hour. The luminescent tip points to the minutes. The ultra-light, three-hertz oscillating silicon balance is particularly innovative. Its outer mass elements and the four regulating eccentrics are made of nickel. Completely new are stabilizing micro-blades. The indicator element for the hours is more compact. Front and rear, the up to five bar waterproof case is scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
TICKING SWEETS The colorful world of sugar sweets brings Richard Mille to the wrist. Each of the ten models comes in an edition of 30 copies to the market. Connoisseurs glance through a magnifying glass to recognize the art of watchmaking at a high level and its creative refinements. Based on the successful models RM 07-03, RM 16-01 and RM 37-01, they are enriched by a palette of a total of 60 colors. Art director Cécile Guenat is responsible for the various designs. His “Sweets Collection” includes four models with two-tone ceramic casings and decorative elements in enamel or black chromed titanium. They are called “RM 07-03 Cupcake”, “RM 07-03 Marshmallow”, “RM 37-01 Sucette” and “RM 16-01 Réglisse”. The so-called “fruit line” meets six different tastes: lemon, strawberry, blueberry, lychee, kiwi and cherry. If you do not find anything here, it’s your own fault, provided that your wallet is sufficiently filled with cash. WATCH FOR THE CAR Roger Dubuis cooperates with Lamborghini. For its current collection, the watchmaker has targeted the “Huracán”. Accordingly, the timepiece is also called “Excalibur Huracán Performante”.
SLOW OR FAST, JUST AS YOU LIKE “Traditional Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar” is christened as Vacheron Constantin’s latest creation. As the name suggests, this
A. Lange & Söhne
Bell & Ross
H.Moser & Cie.
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platinum wristwatch has a calendar that does not require manual correction until 2100. This complication is helpful, but nothing horologically unusual. However, its outstanding character is its style of gear shift in caliber 3610. Alternatively, the manual wind movement assembled from 480 parts works quickly or slowly. The smaller duo of balance and balance spring oscillates on the wrist with four Hertz. This high frequency provides high precision for about four days. For standby mode when stored, press the pushbutton at “8”. The complex mechanism shifts down about four gears via a differential gearbox, and the larger gear regulator immediately starts working. According to the motto “that which runs long, does so slowly,” it oscillates with only 1.2 Hertz. At this snail’s pace, the microcosm lasted for a good 70 days. Nevertheless, it continues the power-saving calender mechanism punctually at midnight. However, in the energy-saving mode this exquisite Geneva seal timepiece should lie flat. “EL PRIMERO” IS CELEBRATING ITS BIRTHDAY “El Primero” means nothing other than “The First”. Zenith presented it in 1969 as the world’s first chronograph with ball bearing rotor, ratchet wheel control, horizontal clutch and five Hertz balance frequency. Since then, it has been the movement from that time that has become indispensable. Its 50th birthday brings lovers a sumptuous case, filled with three timekeepers. One of them is a steel reissue of the first “El Primero” with a multicolored dial. Furthermore, there is the COSC-certified “Chronomaster El Primero” with fundamentally identical, but a technically optimized caliber 3600 and steel housing. The third one, in titanium, is ticking with two frequencies: five and fifty hertz. The slower balance is responsible for the time display; the faster one allows stops to the hundredth of a second. This watch is called “El Primero 21”. There is also room for a fourth piece with thousandths of a second stopping accuracy, which Zenith will introduce within the next few years and will then be available as an option. Under the hinged lid there is still a kind of watchmaker’s workbench with lamp and magnifying glass. A small tool clamps the tension spring of the hand-wound movement provided as an showpiece.
A. Lange & Söhne: Lange 1
JEWELS MADE IN BASEL The Basel jewellery designer Nadine Fink organizes the 2nd edition of «Jewels Basel».
Text: NINA MERLI Photo: PROVIDED
Nadine Fink, who originally studied clinical psychology and business administration, was in the middle of an ambitious post-doctoral research program at the elite Harvard University when she opted for a completely different direction. The Basel woman with Jamaican roots decided to abandon her academic career and henceforth work as a jewellery designer. Driven by the American “You can make it” mentality, Nadine Fink did not allow herself to be distracted and realized her dream within a very short time: In 2011 she founded her jewellery label “Nana Fink”. Her creations, heavily inspired by Art Deco architecture, are now worn by actresses such as Salma Hayek, Shay Mitchell and Anna Chlumsky; the designer Paul Smith also sells the label in his London and Los Angeles flagship stores. At the same time that Messe Basel will be opening its doors
on March 21 to “Baselworld”, the largest watch and jewellery fair in the world, Nadine Fink is organizing a very exclusive side event in the “Wildt’schen Haus” on Petersplatz. The Basel jewellery designer, together with other designers and renowned brands, invite you to the 2nd edition of “Jewels Basel”. PRE met the successful designer and entrepreneur for an interview.
NINA MERLI How did you come up with the idea of “Jewels Basel”?
NADINE FINK Probably the setting at that time was decisive for this decision, because during my time at Harvard I was surrounded by highly motivated people who wanted to achieve something, to achieve something big. So I was surrounded by very inspired people. At some point around 2009, for the first time, I told my colleagues – when asked about my future plans – that I wanted to design my own jewellery, and because I moved in this very ambitious milieu, I did not even think that it would not work out. Barely a year later, my first collection was created.
NADINE FINK The idea arose in principle out of necessity: in 2016 and 2017 I exhibited at the so-called “Design Lab” at Baselworld. In 2018, however, the platform was no longer offered to young designers so I decided to organize an event myself. I called the hotel Les Trois Rois, and fortunately they had a free salon, which I could rent for two days. This is how the first edition of “Jewels Basel” originated. NINA MERLI This year, the event takes place in the beautiful patrician villa “Wildt’sches Haus”.
NINA MERLI Was jewellery in any way a hobby of yours? NADINE FINK No, not at all. My hobby at that time was the restoration of antique furniture. I often went to furniture fairs where I also discovered antique jewellery which fascinated me very much. That’s how my first collection “Loewenkind” was born, which is heavily inspired by antique jewellery and Art Deco.
NADINE FINK A very special location, the neo-baroque palace is the representative villa of the Basel government and can be rented for special events. Chanel, Bulgari and Louis Vuitton have already held events here. NINA MERLI Which jewellery labels can be seen in the villa as well as your own?
NINA MERLI It seems that your belief in your own abilities has paid off. Your label has quickly established itself and also with many prominent followers.
NADINE FINK “Style of Jolie” for example. This is the jewellery collection by Angelina Jolie, which she created together with the jeweller Robert Procop and whose proceeds benefit Jolie’s charity project for children. Also on board is the New Yorker Eva Zuckermann with her label “Eva Fehren” and Colette Steckel with her “Colette” line. We also have a salon with Swiss watch brands.
NADINE FINK Yes, that’s true. Since the founding of my label, one thing has led to another, and I am very happy today that I have chosen this path.
NINA MERLI You had originally chosen a completely different – scientific – career. How did it happen that you suddenly decided to go in a completely different direction?
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Info: “Jewels Basel” 21.03.–24.03. Wildt’sches Haus jewelsbasel.com
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Other displayed labels
Eva Fehren Behind the label “Eva Fehren” stands the New Yorker Eva Zuckermann. Her hometown is her greatest inspiration: The city, its geometric patterns and architectural buildings such as the Chrysler building are reflected in her all-handcrafted pieces of jewellery.
Carla Amorim The famous Brazilian designer has been creating her own jewelry since 1992. She relies heavily on her hometown of Brasilia and the architecture inspired by Oscar Niemeyer. Her pieces are all made in her own workshops in São Paolo. Stars like Jennifer Lopez, Eva Mendes and Emily Blunt wear the feminine and delicate valuables by Carla Amorim.
Robert Procop / Angelina Jolie Robert Procop, the famous goldsmith from Beverly Hills, launched the “Style of Jolie” jewellery collection a few years ago with Hollywood star Angelina Jolie. The full proceeds will be donated to the foundation “Education Partnership for Children of Conflict”, an aid organization that supports school programs for children in conflict zones.
THE FASCINATION OF GEMSTONES Text: NINA MERLI Photo: KEYSTONE / GETT Y IMAGES
Gemstones played an important role in ancient times. On the one hand, they were seen as possessing magical powers, and on the other hand, they were seen to be an expression of power and wealth in many cultures. This fascination has not diminished to this day, and so gemstones and jewellery continue to make headlines throughout the world. 88
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PRE Previous page: Loved her jewels more than her men – actress Elizabeth Taylor
THE BIGGEST PEARL IN THE WORLD For example, in 1934 the excitement was great when a Filipino diver off the island of Palawan made a sensational discovery. He found an enormous pearl, in a giant shell, weighing 6.4 kg and measuring 23 cm in length. Since then, the “Pearl of Allah” or “Pearl of Lao Tse”, as it is also called, is considered the largest of its kind. Its value? About $40 million.
ring. Burton lost the match. The ring was auctioned after her death in the Liz-Taylor auction at Christie’s. RECORD PRICES In fact, diamonds are very popular at auction houses, as they repeatedly obtain record prices: The yellow diamond “Graff Vivid Yellow” came under the hammer, at Sotheby’s for 14.5 million Swiss francs, and the jewellery house Harry Winston fetched at Christie’s a blue diamond for 21,4 million. Incidentally, Harry Winston has long been in possession of the fabled “Hope” diamond. It is burdened with a wicked curse; the diamond was acquired by Winston in 1949 and sold to Aristotle Onassis and then bought back from him, with Winston eventually donating it to the Smithsonian National Museum in Washington where the diamond (value: about 250 million francs) can still be admired nowadays.
GEMS AS ENCRYPTED MESSAGES Slightly less expensive, but much more valuable to many, were special trinkets that were fashionable in England during the Victorian era (the first half of the 19th century). At that time, lovers secretly exchanged declarations of love in the form of jewellery. For this purpose they had special lockets made, which formed words based on the gems used. “Love” was written from a lapis lazuli, an opal, a vermeil and an emerald. “Dearest” consisted of: Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz. Even King George IV of England wore such a locket – it had been given to him by his mistress Mrs. Fitzherbert. A BET WITH CONSEQUENCES That Elizabeth Taylor loved jewellery is well known. Consequently, she lovingly called her favorite piece – a 33.19-carat diamond ring – “My baby”. Richard Burton had given her the ring for their fourth year anniversary of their marriage. More exciting, however, is the story of Taylor’s “Ping-pong ring”: On a winter evening in 1970, Burton challenged his wife to a ping-pong match. He promised her, if she should win, a small diamond
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
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Something that is not talked about, which in our time has not happened either. Panerai, the time-honored Italian watch brand, provides us with a variety of discussion topics, and it is important to Jean-Marc Pontroué, the new CEO, that the subjects under discussion do not come to an end.
Text: GISBERT L. BRUNNER
A GOOD INVESTMENT If after the Geneva Watch Fair in April 1998 you had purchased one of 60 copies of the new “Panerai Reference PAM21” for around 38,000 Swiss Francs (46,000 German Marks), you would have been extremely fortunate today. Depending on the state of preservation, fans of this watch, which possesses a platinum case and old manual wind movement of the Rolex 618 caliber, pay three or even five times as much. “With this limited edition alone,” announced retired CEO Angelo Bonati, “the Richemont Group financed the purchase of the Panerai brand in 1997.” As a bonus, it included 65 large Rolex factories, which in 1936 inspired the first “Radiomir Panerai”. Buyers of the “Luminor Marina PAM001” also got a good deal, provided that they were using the so-called “pre-A” series with tritium indices on the dial. In 1998, each copy cost 3,700 Swiss francs. At present, the price of this timepiece has more than doubled. The list could be arbitrarily continued. For example, anyone who managed to grab a Panerai “Bronzo” would not have regretted the investment for a single day.
developed the first prototype of a special diving wristwatch. Strong support was provided by Rolex. The Swiss company contributed the oversized pillow-shaped “Oyster” case with screw-on crown and aforesaid mentioned manual wind movement. The latter was based on a product design by the specialist Cortébert. That Panerai was able to prevail in competition with other watch manufacturers was of course also due to having the best clearly readable dial. A mixture of zinc sulphate, radium bromide and mesothonum provided particularly high luminosity. Thus, when underwater it was extremely valuable to be able to unmistakably tell the time, even in complete darkness, and this fact considerably reduced the danger of being discovered by the enemy. From 1938 onwards, the “Gamma” group of divers used the “Radiomir Panerai” in daring underwater attacks on enemy ships. However, the Achilles heel consisted in the necessity of having to wind the mechanism daily. In the heat of the moment, the careful turning of the crown could be forgotten. One way out was to use “Angelus” calibers with eight days of automatic gear autonomy. Logically, at the end of World War II time by no means stopped at Panerai. For the “Italian Navy” the family business used a new lighting material based primarily on the hydrogen isotope tritium with the 1949 protected name “Luminor”. As a sustainable “philosopher’s stone” in terms of waterproofness, a 1956 patented housing construction was approved. In the case of the model also christened “Luminor”, a pressure lever presses the crown firmly against the case. In the open position for winding or adjusting, it was an unmistakable reminder for the divers as it was far away from the housing.
BORN OF MILITARY DEMANDS Giuseppe and Maria Panerai were far removed from such considerations in the early 1930s. They followed in the footsteps of their father Guido, who in 1860 founded “Guido Panerai & Figlio” in Florence. His small company specialized in precision instruments and intricate mechanical devices for the nautical sector. His children went a step further and opened the watch shop “Orologeria Svizzera” opposite the cathedral. On behalf of the Italian naval administration, the “Officine Panerai”
WATCHES & JEWELLERY 1
FROM THE PANERAI ARCHIVE
OROLOGERIA SVIZZERA, 1934
ITALIAN COMBAT DIVER WITH RADIOMIR PANERAI
PANERAI DEPTH GAUGE
FROM THE PANERAI ARCHIVE
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
PANERAI FOR CIVILIANS In the late 1960s, Panerai began a pronounced period of weakness. As a result of a serious illness, Giuseppe Panerai wanted to sell the commercial area of his company to the Italian Navy and only continue his “Orologeria Svizzera” (Swiss watch division). But the authorities did not play along. After Giuseppe’s death in February 1972, they flexed their muscles with reference to military secrets. Now Dino Zei, the naval officer and engineer, took the helm of “Officine Panerai Srl”. As the end of the Cold War ushered in the need for military-related products at the seabed, watch aficcionados were finally able to acquire the navy classics. On September 10, 1993, the go-ahead signal for the new era was given. The way forward into the future was to a certain degree thanks to Sylvester Stalone. In 1994, “Sly” bought a “Luminor” in Florence, and did not take it off during the filming of the film “Daylight”, later ordering a small series of this watch for his friends. One of the rare “Slytech Submersibles” was worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the film “Eraser”. Numerous celebrities inspired Johann Rupert, the main shareholder of the Richemont Group. In March 1997, the transmission of the brand name “Officine Panerai” as well as the technical documentation, patents and all existing stock items, including the aforementioned Rolex movements, took place. With the Geneva Watch Fair in 1998, the traditional Italian company not only began a new era, but also a flight into unprecedented heights. As pilot and CEO, Dottore Angelo Bonati was the responsible person for 20 years.
all important. Under one roof, people of different professions and qualifications go about their work. Of particular significance is the immensely important research and development department. The quality of the creative work results in the fact that about 80 percent of the proposed concepts will become a reality sooner or later. In the “torture chamber”, a wellequipped testing and verification laboratory, everything has to prove itself one hundred percent. In-house and at ValFleurier clever specialists of various professions take care of the factory and watch production. Their expertise ranges from circuit board production to the final check. More than 85 percent of the movements used by Panerai are now exclusively owned, and the trend continues to increase. “The brand policy,” says new CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué, “is to offer more manufactory calibers. In 2020, we will present a new movement during the Geneva Watch Fair SIHH, which is one hundred percent developed by us in Neuchâtel.” Rigorous control is extremely important at all stages of production. The components that they make themselves and those which are delivered both receive the same treatment. As a Holy Grail, the factory maintains a haute-horlogerie studio, in which complexities such as the extraordinary rotary gear calibers are developed. Again, nothing is left to chance. Quite apart from that, Panerai also pays close attention to the sustainable use of energy and environmental protection. LED lighting is just as natural as the use of geothermal and collected rainwater.
MOVEMENTS FROM THEIR OWN FACTORY The be-all and end-all of any timepiece is undoubtedly its movement. Until 2005, without exception, Panerai bought them from established product design suppliers. After October 2002, a working group at the specialized mechanics sister company, ValFleurier, worked on the development of their own exclusive calibers. Already during the course of construction the designers introduced additional functions, which would step by step extend the brand’s range. In September 2005, the first 250 copies of the hand-wound caliber P.2002 with eight days of autommatic gear autonomy were available. From then on it went in quick succession. In the meantime, more than 20 different microcosmic mechanisms, with and without complications, proved what could be accomplished by an innovative spirit combined with the willingness to invest. In Panerai’s “Laboratorio di Idee”, daring thoughts and seemingly daredevil experiments were not only allowed but most desired. The “expressis verbis” expressly gives the employees the right to make use of the powerhouse of their ideas. Their creativity was the greatest asset of those working in the new manufacturing plant.
IN THE FUTURE WITH JEAN-MARC PONTROUÉ Undoubtedly, the worlds of water and adventurous activities are combined in the name Panerai. It is also aware of JeanMarc Pontroué. Since mid-2018, the agile Frenchman has set the course. As CEO, he shares the view of his predecessor: “Where did Panerai come from, and where do we want to go with the brand in order to succeed in the market?” However, his vision and strategy are aimed at a total of four watch lines: “Radiomir, which is linked to the history of our brand, and Luminor, which is based on the Italian legacy. Also, Luminor Due addresses a new clientele known as Millennials. Finally, there is the Submersible for extreme sports.” After working in the LVMH Group at Montblanc and since February 2012 as CEO of Roger Dubuis, Jean-Marc Pontroué’s future activity at Pierre-à-Bot was a real promotion. Although numbers might not be provided for any of the Richemont brands, it is estimated that Panerai spends around 450 million Swiss francs per year, while Roger Dubuis only brought it up to approximately 80 million. In his new job, the new boss at once was fascinated with the fact that Panerai has two real icons, “Radiomir” and “Luminor”. His credo: “We are one of the very few players with a special case shape which is intimately linked to our brand.” On the other hand there is a passionate following connected with the “Paneristi”. For them, the traditional Italian brand is something of a religion. In addition, he also wants to use the “idea lab” far more extensively than has hitherto been done. According to Pontroué, it is also by no means limited to watches. The work of the creative people refers to the entire philosophy and strategy, starting with the design and through the technique and the materials, all the way to how Panerai works and reveals itself to the outside
A VISIT TO PIERRE-A-BOT Whoever drives on the highway from Neuchâtel to La Chauxde-Fonds, must inevitably past this complex which opened in 2013 in Pierre-à-Bot. A tour of the 10,000 square meter building invites visitors to immediately notice that the planners and contractors did an outstanding job. Everything necessary to create, manufacture, market and maintain high quality wristwatches is right here. Team spirit, ergonomics, process optimization, ecology, and above all, a future oriented-outlook are
Left: Panerai P.5000
pressure. The manufacturer also uses recycled material to make the strap. Thus, this wristwatch makes a small, but nevertheless not negligible, contribution to environmental protection. In addition to the timepiece, a total of only 19 buyers also get an adventure with the charismatic brand ambassador. After a thorough health and fitness check, you can spend a few days on and between Arctic ice floes with Mike Horn. With this and two similar offers, in 2019 Jean-Marc Pontroué proves to be a true pioneer in the marketing of watches. Experiences like these are usually not available even with money, and that makes them unique. Presumably, other brands will follow suit in the not too distant future.
world. Panerai represents much more than just watches. Panerai is, according to the first man on board, a brand “that, more than anything else, can underscore its unique values through spectacular experiences. Our customers must experience something unique when they visit our Idea Lab in Neuchâtel and when they visit our boutiques. As a pioneering brand, Panerai must, as always, enable special experiences.” If desired, this can also be done away from home. The new “Submersible Mike Horn Edition – 47 mm” testifies to this. The watch was created for a great adventurer, with whom the company has been in cooperation with for a long time. The case is made of recycled titanium. Water can not harm the in-house automatic caliber P.9010, with three days of autonomy and up to 300 bar
WATCHES & JEWELLERY PANERAI MILESTONES
Radiomir Platinum, PAM21
L’Egiziano, 60 mm, PAM00341
As a bonus, Richemont received 65 Rolex Cortébert caliber 618s
The 60-millimeter bolide is reminiscent of the round model
at the time of purchase. Of these, 60 of them received new plati-
from 1956. Because the Angelus 240 caliber no longer exists,
num casings of the “Radiomir” type after thorough reprocessing.
Panerai installed its own P.2002/7 with eight-day automatic
gear autonomy. Titanium as a housing material brings a no-
Radiomir, 47 mm, “California” Arabic-Roman dial
In fact, a true Rolex Oyster with Rolex pocket watch caliber
Luminor Marina, Pre-A Series, PAM0001
ticeable reduction in weight. Limited edition of 500 copies.
618, product design by Cortébert. Diameter 47 mm. Screwed
Luminor, the so-called “pre-A series”, reference 6502, 1000 piec-
steel housing. In naval operation from 1938. The name Radi-
es. On the back they have the engraving O (fficine) P (anerai)
L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Equation of Time tourbillon Tita-
omir links two Italian terms: “radio”, radium, and “mira” for
6502, serial number BB 97xxxx and a combination of produc-
nio, 50 mm, PAM00365
tion number/size (xxxx/1000). T-Swiss-T at the bottom of the
The hitherto most complex wristwatch by Panerai. Caliber
dial signals the use of tritium luminous material. Hand-wound
P.2005/g with transversal turning, indication of the equations
caliber OP II, i.e. Eta-Unitas 6497. The later series carry a letter
such as the sunrise and sunset at the desired location. Illus-
Radiomir, 47 mm, new case type
before the limitation number, eg. Axxxx / 1000th “A” stands for
tration of the night sky is on the back. Hours, minutes, sec-
In the early 1940s, the “Officine Panerai” had the pillow-
the production year 1998, “B” for 1999 etc.
onds, date, month and remaining power reserve can also be
shaped Oyster case with simple wire hangers serving as band
read. Titanium case.
lugs. Under extreme conditions, the soldered loops could
crack or break off. New 47 mm steel case with integrated band
Radiomir Chrono Split-Seconds, PAM00047, 40 mm
lugs. Rolex caliber 618.
Split-second chronograph with steel case, manufactured in 1999 in
Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo, OP 5808, PAM00382
an edition of 20 copies. The 14-linige hand-wound caliber is a rare
The 47 mm case with the diving time-rotating bezel made of
Venus 179, presented with a fine finishing by Girard-Perregaux.
bronze. Titanium base with viewing window. Manufactory
1943 Mare Nostrum, 52 mm
automatic caliber P.9000. The edition of 1,000 copies was in-
“Mare Nostrum” is the name of the Mediterranean in Italian.
At Panerai, three prototypes of a 52-millimeter chronograph
Radiomir Zerograph, PAM 00067, 42mm
stantly sold out.
were created in 1943, equipped with the proven 14¾-line
Limited edition of 99 watches in white gold. In the 1940s the
hand-wound caliber 215 by Angelus, Le Locle.
chronograph specialist Lémania produced the product design
Panerai Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Ceramica, PAM00396
CHT 15 with an operating lever.
The black-colored manufacture caliber P.2005/B is surround-
Late 1940s-early 1950s
ed by a deep black housing made of scratch-resistant ceramic.
Luminor left-handed, 47 mm
The new crown guard is located on the left side of the housing.
Radiomir Chrono Foudroyante, PAM 00079
Soldiers often wore their watch on the right wrist. On the left
Issued in 250 copies with a modified automatic caliber Eta 7750.
they strapped a compass and depth gauge. Rolex Cortébert-
Additional complications: drag indicator (rattrapante) and the
Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback Titanio PAM0526
ability to read an eighth of a second time interval right from the
Chronograph with unique racing function. An orange-colored
dial. For this there is a “Seconde Foudroyante” (“lightening sec-
pushbutton below the crown moves the centrally arranged
ond”) at “9”.
and therefore very easy to read totalizator counterclockwise
144 hours or a full six days of gear autonomy.
Luminor Marina Militare, screwed crown, 47 mm, 8-day
in minute steps, and as needed for up to 59 minutes. After
starting the chronograph it moves back to the zero point. The
Daily pressure on the main spring led to all sorts of problems
Luminor 1950, 47 mm, PAM00127
Regatta starts right in the vertical position. Automatic caliber
in the case with a screw crown. Temporary relief was provided
1,950 copies with steel case, sandwich dial and modified hand-
by the 16-line caliber Angelus 240 with eight days of automat-
wound caliber Eta 6497. Identification of the COSC-certified
ic gear autonomy.
movement: Gooseneck fine adjustment.
The cushion-shaped 45 mm shell surrounds a very fine chron-
Marina Militare, crown guard, 8-day gear movement
Luminor Chrono Regatta, PAM00168
ograph movement of the Montblanc subsidiary Minerva. At
Already in the 1940s, the “Officine Panerai” developed a new
In honor of the Laureus Regatta Panerai, 399 pieces of this ti-
Panerai, the 13-22 is called OP XXV. Platinum housing, 45 mm
housing with an innovative sealing system for the crown.
tanium wristwatch were made. The automatic caliber OP XII,
diameter, 50 copies.
Winding and time setting required deliberate lifting. The
which is a COSC-certified Valjoux 7753, ticks in the 40 mm
protruding part located after the power supply could not be
watch case, which is water-resistant to ten bar.
2014 Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Platino, PAM00518
overlooked even if tried. Manual winding caliber Angelus 240.
2015 Luminor Submersible Carbotech, PAM00616
Panerai uses high-performance carbon fiber mats made from
Luminor Arktos Amagnetic, 44 mm, PAM0092
polyether ether ketone (PEEK) polymer for the blank of the
60 mm, 8-day movement
In 2002, the adventurer Mike Horn set off on a journey around the
47mm lightweight casing. The same is placed on each other
Time-Monument. Round steel housing with crown guard
earth along the Arctic Circle. For the expedition, Panerai developed
twisted by 15 degrees and then inseparably connected under
mounted on the right side. The diameter of 60 millimeters
a special wristwatch. The 44 mm special steel bolide with unidirec-
pressure at a specific temperature. An 18 mm thick case re-
results from a novel revolving bezel with luminous marking
tional rotating directional bezel and non-magnetic soft iron inner
quires a total of 126 layers. Manufactory Automatic P.9000.
in the form of a dot. Produced for the Egyptian Navy. Manual
housing, water-resistant to 30 bar. Edition of 500 copies.
wind caliber 240 by Angelus.
Minute Repeater Carillon tourbillon GMT, PAM00600, 49 mm
Radiomir 8 days GMT, PAM0097
This wristwatch acoustically announces the time on request:
Titanium case prototype
First Panerai with in-house Panerai caliber. The 245-piece pre-
first the number of hours, then in 10-minute intervals and
Use of lightweight, hypoallergenic titanium as an alternative
miere caliber is called P.2002. White gold case.
finally the number of minutes. At 11:59 it counts loudly. In
body material to enhance appeal. This prototype with five
addition, the caliber P.2005/MR also has a time zone function
mm thick sapphire crystal is water resistant up to 100 bar
Luminor 1950 Submersible Depth Gauge, PAM 00193
and a power reserve indicator.
Divers wristwatch with hybrid inner life: for the time display an
automatic movement based on the Eta 7750. In addition, depth
LAB ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days, PAM00700, 49 mm
Luminor Marina Militare, PVD on steel, 44 mm
gauge up to 120 meters in the form of an electronic module, con-
Fifty buyers can rest for 50 years with this carbon-steel watch
Luminor with PVD-coated steel housing, water-resistant to 30
sisting of pressure transducer, microprocessor and micromotor
and the innovative hand-wound Caliber P.3001/C. It can be re-
bar. The three letters stand for “Physical Vapor Deposition”,
for the depth indicator.
placed if the problem isn’t caused by the user.
the vapor phase. The built-in clock mechanism: Eta-Unitas
manual wind, caliber 6497.
Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT, PAM00276
Luminor Base Logo 3 Days Accaio, PAM00774, 44 mm
With a classic tourbillon, the rotary gear in hand-wound calib-
The entry-level model into the world of Panerai wristwatches
er P.2005 has hardly anything in common. In this new move-
with in-house mechanism. The new manual winding caliber
Luminor Slytech Daylight
ment, the balance rotates across its axis. The comparison with
P.6000 in the steel housing is ticking for three days straight
Sylvester Stallone ordered 101 “Luminor Daylight Slytech”
a “chicken on the grill” is therefore not far off. Although it does
after a full wind-up.
copies from Panerai after the conclusion of the thriller “Day-
not counteract gravity, it does bring about a friction optimiza-
light”. The delivery took place in 1995 with the star’s en-
tion in the bearings of the balance shaft, the armature and the
Mare Nostrum Slytech, 42 mm
Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsate 8 Days GMT Ceramica,
Sylvester Stallone also ordered a “Mare Nostrum Slytech” chron-
44 mm, PAM00317
ograph in stainless steel with a 42 mm diameter case. The built-
The fact that the PAM 317 is a chronograph is revealed only at
in movement: manual winding caliber Eta 2801 with the chrono-
second glance. You do not look for buttons on the right in vain.
graph module 3127 by Dubois-Dépraz.
There, the crown protection with guard dominates. The time-
i.e. a process of the physical deposition of thin layers during
keeper is operated with its own chronograph caliber P.2004 with the help of a pushbutton at “8”.
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
DRIVE CAREFULLY ME Higher, more expensive, further: New superlatives at auctions show how popular watches are as collectibles. Behind the latest records is the Geneva auction house Phillips, with its popular auctioneer Aurel Bacs. Together with him, PRE looks at the highlights and also the 2019 collectors market.
Text: IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT Photo: PAUL NEWMAN / PHOTO BY NY DAILY NEWS ARCHIVE
IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT You’ve set records in the past few years with Phillips’ watch auctions. Which were the most important AUREL BACS This can be reported quite soberly on the basis of the results. At the top of the list is certainly the Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman”, which was sold in October 2017 in New York for 17.8 million dollars. This is the best result ever achieved for a watch at auction. This lot was what is called a “perfect storm” in English. Because everything that is important to a collector, came together in this watch: It comes from one of the world’s most famous watch brands, from Rolex, as well as from their most popular collection Daytona. In addition, it was not just a model with the much soughtafter Paul Newman dial, but Paul Newman’s actual watch itself. It’s like a big bang for a watch collector. However, we ourselves did not expect such an immense interest and set the watch for a call price of just one million dollars. IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT What were the reactions before and during the auction? AUREL BACS The watch has received more attention than any other previous model. There was not a newspaper or mass media outlet that did not report about it – worldwide! We believe that half of humanity has heard of this watch in the past two years. So the interest of the whole world was focused on the sale of this watch. For me as an auctioneer, that was certainly the most exciting moment in my professional life. When I announced the watch, a telephone company called out: “ten million dollars, please!” So the call price was increased by a factor of ten – something like that has never happened before. It was like a tsunami until the watch finally sold for $ 17.8 million. IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT How does such a record affect the collection of watches? AUREL BACS I think that was a turning point because up to that point no one would have dreamed of such prices for wristwatches. As a result, watches have been raised to a new level as a collectors’ items – in spheres in which paintings, important jewels or outstanding automobiles have been sold so far. IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT Are there other outstanding watches that you have sold for Phillips? AUREL BACS About a year before Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona, I was allowed to auction a watch from Patek Philippe – the reference 1518 in stainless steel. It was sold in November
2016 in Geneva and generated more than eleven million Swiss francs. Never before had so much money been paid for a watch from Patek Philippe. This also shows that the material value plays a minor role. Although stainless steel is far less exclusive than gold, these steel watches are very expensive because they are so rare. Only four stainless steel models of the reference 1518 are known. This is the very first wristwatch in the world with perpetual calendar and chronograph. Incidentally, the proceeds of this model also came as a surprise to us. IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT What can make such a small object so valuable? In addition, where do these huge price increases come from? AUREL BACS Also in other areas one is always hearing about new record prices. In my view, that is a sign of times. There is just a lot of money in circulation! At the same time, we see that the younger generation is extremely interested in historical objects, because today’s consumption offers so little content. Many goods today have no history and tell us nothing. Even an expensive mobile phone is ultimately a disposable item. Therefore, there are more and more people who want to own something that is worthy of museums. IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT How important is it for a story to be behind an object? AUREL BACS This illustrates another record from last year with a white gold watch from Omega. In May 2018, we sold this watch for $ 1.8 million, which was previously owned by Elvis Presley. The “King of Rock ’n’ Roll” received it in 1961 as a gift from his record company. This has interested both watch collectors and the Elvis fanbase. They came from all over the world – that too is a recent development at auctions. Today, Phillips auctions attract well over 1,000 customers from 40 to 50 different nations. This shows how immense the watch market is today and that the collection of watches is popular in many countries. IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT All the watches you report about are fascinating. Do you have a personal highlight? AUREL BACS I must confess that I have built up a special relationship with the Daytona Paul Newman during the one and a half year preparation period. I worked closely with Paul Newman’s daughter and met his friends. After many conversations, I had the feeling that he must have been an exceptionally fine, interesting, generous, reliable and great man. He has always been charitable, and quite in his spirit, part of the proceeds from the sale of the watch went to the foundation of Paul Newman’s daughter, who works for environmental projects.
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
“THE COLLECTOR HAS EVOLVED”
IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT Now the expectations are high. What special timepieces will Phillips offer this year? AUREL BACS I can not say anything to you yet. After our last auction in New York we then start all over again. What we will offer at our auctions in Geneva in May and June is only now being prepared. In general, however, I can say that the offer has not increased, but the collector community and the number of interested lovers has grown immensely. The demand is just as great as the knowledge of collectors. Overall, the watch market has become much more dynamic, international and faster. The interested parties are much better informed today than they were ten or twenty years ago. However, it is not possible to say with certainty in which direction values develop because it’s not just about how beautiful or how rare a watch is, but also about who the buyer of tomorrow is. Art and collectibles are always a reflection of society. The question is, today, what do we consider to be beautiful and desirable. IRIS WIMMER-OLBORT Mr. Bacs, thank you for the interview.
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
Breitling: Into the Âfuture with Georges Kern Text: GISBERT L. BRUNNER
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
A BRIEF LOOK INTO ITS HISTORY Since the rather modest beginnings in 1884, the ownership of the Breitling house is very manageable. The company founder Léon Breitling and his family offspring had a firm hand on the controls. Due to the quartz revolution and the accompanying watch crisis, this specialist, who was recognized for pilot watches among other things, flew through the violent turbulences of the 1970s. Even the significant contribution to the development of the world’s first automatic chronograph with a micro-rotor could not change this. In 1979 his grandson, Willy Breitling, had no choice but to liquidate the family business in an orderly manner. In the course of doing this, the engineer Ernest Schneider not only acquired the brand name, but also the valuable rights to chronographic icons such as “Navitimer”. On November 30, 1982 Breitling Montres SA rolled out on the runway in Grenchen and the subsequent ascent was truly impressive. As proof of outstanding quality, his son Théodore Schneider, sent all mechanical and electronic movements without exception for official certification to the Swiss Chronometer Testing Center COSC. In 2009, the 125th company anniversary brought the first completely self-developed movement that was self-winding and had a chronograph. The B01 catapulted Breitling in the exclusive circles of genuine factories, and more calibers followed. Production of approximately 140,000 watches every year with and without stop function was not a trifling matter.
but also the role of CEO, and that just under three months later he would be appointed as the head of all specialized watch brands of the Richemont luxury group. This top manager was born in 1965 in Düsseldorf. After studies in Strasbourg and St. Gallen his picture book career began with his first steps at Kraft Foods and later the political scientist and business economist joined TAG Heuer. As the youngest brand CEO at Richemont, in early 2002, he was attracted by the possibility of taking over the management of IWC in Schaffhausen. There, Kern initiated a clearly structured strategy of brands, models, marketing, advertising and globalization. His success speaks volumes: At the beginning of the 21st century, the traditional manufacturer generated annual sales of around 100 million Swiss francs. About 80 percent of the approximately 40,000 wristwatches were sold to customers in German-speaking countries. Over time, this share fell to around one third. Smart as well as targeted expansion into new markets such as “Greater China” allowed production to climb to more than 100,000 watches and revenues to around 700 million Swiss francs. Working as a catalyst was Kern’s proven marketing skills and numerous celebrities from the world of film or sports. In addition, the son of a Düsseldorf exquisite jeweller staked everything on one card: manufacturing. “When I started in 2002, IWC generated only five percent of its production value in its own factory.” Thanks to Georges Kern, it now accounts for more than half, and increasing.
A METEORIC PROFESSIONAL CAREER On the morning of July 14, 2017, there was the surprising news that Georges Kern would take over not only Breitling shares,
VISIONS FOR BREITLING The curve should also show a similarly significant upward trend at Breitling. There too, every watch line tells its own story. An
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
Premier british racing green
Premier silver dial
Navitimer back PANAM
Navitimer face PANAM
outstanding role is played by aviator watches. The undisputed icon is the “Navitimer”, an abbreviation of navigation and timer. So far, the most important clientele are men, and in the enormous Asian market, the man in the cockpit sees plenty of untapped opportunities. Consequently, the jump in sales to over 500 million Swiss francs should not be superhuman. However, and this is the significant difference to his previous professional careers, at Breitling Georges Kern is also entrepreneurial. “This itself is a truly unique opportunity for me.” Immediately after taking office in Grenchen, the ambitious CEO embarked on the restructuring and reorientation of the watch collection. “There is a very clear vision regarding the future brand image. In principle, everything is clearly defined. My team is very fast and extremely experienced, be it in product planning and design, in marketing or in sales. At Breitling, absolute experts act who know the industry and successful products inside out. In other words, you press the button and the machine runs …” Georges Kern landed the first coup with the much-debated and thoroughly polarizing “Navitimer 8”. In short, it is a traditional pilot’s watch, inspired by the onboard instruments that Breitling produced in the so-called “Atelier 8” in the 1930s. However, without the typical “Navitimer” family of watches, which is precisely what led to some discussions among Breitling collectors. In the months since the launch, Georges Kern came up with a few limited enhancements based on the well-known 1950s AVI or co-pilot models, such as the “Swiss Edition” or the limited “Mr. Porter”. Particularly noteworthy in this context are the recently introduced “Curtis P40 Warhawk” with appropriately engraved rotating bezel and the typical totalizers of the chronograph of the AVI reference 765 from 1953. Here “Aviator” already completes the product name. Georges Kern is thus adaptable and as a result, it is very likely that the classic aviation watch segment will appear under the name “Aviator 8” as well as with the design basics of the classic “Co Pilot” of the 1950s. In terms of cooperation with Bentley, Georges Kern also changed direction. “I can only say that the new products for Bentley will look different, much more elegant than the previous ones,” predicted the agile company leader in the spring of 2018, and he kept his word. In autumn 2018, “Premier” returned. The relaunch was characterized by a total of five timelessly designed models, with which the manufactory would like to reach different, but in any case, more or less down-toearth clientele. In addition to the classic wristwatches sporting three hands, there are logically also several chronographs with and without manufacture caliber. The B01 is a new offer in the “Premier” collection. It takes to a new level the cooperation with the luxury car brand Bentley, which has been maintained since 2002. In the future, corresponding wristwatches will find their place in existing Breitling watch families. It starts with the “Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green”. Despite being closely related to the automobile, the steel case is by no means water-shy, which up to ten bar easily withstands the pressure of the wet element. MEMORIES OF THE FUTURE The latest news from Grenchen demonstrates yet again the close relationship between Breitling and aviation. “We exchanged ideas with historians and renowned collectors of old Breitling
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
watches. Our interlocutors have a great deal of knowledge and competence, and these entered into our considerations. Not least from a communicative point of view, we wanted an overriding concept for our pilot’s watch. In this regard, Navitimer is the best known and most powerful name, and probably the most established in the industry.” In this sense, the spring of 2019 signals several classic “Navitimer” chronographs. The “Airlines” edition – a Navitimer tribute to the airlines Swissair, Pan Am and TWA – recalling the golden era of civil aviation and Breitling as an important partner of aviation at this time. In the form of the “Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 43 Pan Am Edition”, it will take to the air again, at least on the wrists of Breitling-based globetrotters. Nostalgic feelings of the same kind awaken its counterpart “TWA”. Behind the three possibly forgotten letters hides “Trans World Airlines” founded in 1930 by the legendary Howard Hughes and phased out in 2001. “We are launching these Airline Editions in a new capsule collection with a limited number of copies, even though they are not numbered. With the capsule editions, we would like to refer to selected events which are rooted in the history of the Breitling-Kern collection.” Third in the group is a no less striking chronograph in honor of “Swissair”. Speaking of Swissair, Breitling cultivates close, sustainable relationships with its successor “Swiss International Airlines”. “What the manufactory is currently presenting is, logically, only a fraction of what we have in mind. We can do quite a lot because we are independent and not listed.” Incidentally, Teddy Schneider has meanwhile sold his share to CVC. It seems that the future has just begun at Breitling.
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
When stylish elegance and perfect aesthetics meet, the story of Harry Winston can be discovered. It is art which goes beyond limitations and sets new standards. The ability to break with custom and lay the foundation for new traditions. As unique as the love stories written by life itself are the exquisite engagement rings of the “King of Diamonds”.
CARAT ART Text: INA RESIAK
A REAL DIAMOND IS AN ASSET THAT WILL BE ENJOYED BY MANY GENERATIONS.
Since 1932, the “Jeweler to the Stars” was passionately driven to search and find the most exquisite and rarest stones. His name stands as the superlative of diamond jewelry, he loved the romance and was fascinated by the beauty of the gems, and the magic that they ignited in him. No one understood how to arrange diamonds as he did, and in each one he saw his own soul, even his own being, which must be treated as individually as a human being. Therefore, he allowed these exquisite gemstones themselves, and not the settings, dictate each design. Harry Winston revolutionized jewelry design – then and now. Whether the legendary prong setting or the use of as little metal as possible to bring out the beauty and soul of diamonds. The designers and artisans in the Harry Winston studios successfully maintain his legacy. TIMELESS ELEGANCE Every single Harry Winston diamond inherits incredible magic and pride based on decades of experience and tradition. Each piece of jewelry has an exquisite quality that will continue to delight over generations. The collection of romantic engagement rings such as “Brilliant Love” also reflects the entire high-end jewelry of this House. Each ring is elaborately hand-crafted, with an individual platinum setting created for each diamond. Also, since it’s for love only the best is good enough, only exclusive diamonds of the three highest color grades D, E and F are selected.
SYMBOLS OF LOVE Engagement rings captivate with their timeless elegance and filigree design. Whether classic, playful or imposing, whether Cushion-cut, tapered baguette, Oval- or Pear-shaped: the ring designs are available in a variety of styles and carry the legacy of the House in an impressive way. Such as the engagement ring “Lily Cluster”, whose design dates back to the 1940s where the first sketches come from the Winston archive and are based on the long-standing commitment of the House, creating jewelry inspired by nature, like this refined shape of lilies in bloom. Also, the “Belle” engagement ring with its beautiful geometric bezel frame and micropavé band which stands above all others, a homage to the patron of the arts (Arabella “Belle” Huntington) who bequeathed her estate to Harry Winston and thus set the foundation for his illustrious career. Also, “The One”, an engagement ring framed by micropavé diamonds of timeless elegance with either a Round Brilliant center stone, or an Oval- or Cushion-cut diamond. As a special service for the lady of your heart, Harry Winston offers the so-called “Ultimate Bridal” collection, in which an individual diamond engagement ring with a 3 carat center stone can be designed, as unique as your own love story. But no matter which carat style you choose, the rings of Harry Winston are extraordinary symbols of love. harrywinston.com
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
A PARTY WITH FRANÇOIS MARC A. HUERLIMANN What is the story behind becoming CEO of Audemars Piguet?
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS I like to meet them, understand what is behind them, who they are. We always look for excellent character and the right attitude.
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS I joined Audemars Piguet in 1994. I started as sales manager for Asia-Pacific and Europe and was able to take over the responsibility for the US market in 1999. I became global CEO in 2012 and moved to Switzerland.
MARC A. HUERLIMANN What else, apart from the game itself, is in Golf for Audemars Piguet? FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS Golf, along with contemporary art and most recently, music, is one of our main marketing pillars. These platforms allow us to tell a story around our watches and to personally engage with our clients. At our AP Golf Invitational here in Dubai for example, we bring together clients with some of our pros in order for them to be able to spend some time together. Clients, who are champions in their own fields, are always interested in talking to pro athletes and understanding how they stay at the top of their game. They get to spend quality time together, exchange tips, etc...
MARC A. HUERLIMANN Already before Audemars Piguet, you were involved in Golf – tell us more about that. FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS I started playing golf early on and have always been very competitive about it. At age 18, I decided to quit school to become a golf pro. As you can see, life tends to alter your plans sometimes (smiles). MARC A. HUERLIMANN Besides watchmaking, Golf is obviously a topic that is very important to you. What is different regarding the other watch brands which are investing in Golf as well?
MARC A. HUERLIMANN How difficult or easy is it to sell an AP on the Golf course?
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS At Audemars Piguet, we highly value what we call the “AP Family” spirit, we sponsor human talent, not tournaments. We consider our professional golfers as part of the AP family and not only as brand ambassadors. The relation we have with them is a very lively and personal one. We especially keep an eye on young talent who have already joined us, in several cases even before their major breakthrough victories.
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS That is not our goal. It is not the time or place to do this. The idea is to build a relationship, create unique and personal experiences for our clients. MARC A. HUERLIMANN Regarding that topic, we see that you started to create other alternative spaces for the brand, outside of the boutiques – like the AP Houses. Where will the watch sales happen in the future?
MARC A. HUERLIMANN How do you select your Golf ambassadors, and how do you find these raw diamonds before they become known to a wider public?
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS Everywhere! We haven’t yet seen the end of retail development. As consumer habits are evolving, we must
find new solutions to adapt to our clients’ preferences. Our AP Houses allow us to show our clients the full universe of Audemars Piguet which is not always possible in the limited space of a boutique. The response is very promising: on average, our clients spend twice as much time in our AP Houses than in our boutiques.
MARC A. HUERLIMANN On a daily basis, how much are the owners involved in company decisions? FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS They provide the overall vision of the company while the execution is carried out by management and their teams.
MARC A. HUERLIMANN Digital Sales is another important new field – will people buy AP watches for CHF 50,000 from a Webshop?
MARC A. HUERLIMANN Looking into the future – which are the biggest challenges for AP?
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS For us, the focus should be on delivering quality. In 2018, we tested e-commerce with our first online WeChat pop-up boutique in partnership with JD.com, one of China’s largest e-tailers. In 2019, we are planning to make our own website transactional only for the United States. The internet is a new way to reach out to clients. It’s a new tool, a new language. You have to learn it first, then you can act.
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS This year will be marked by our last participation in SIHH and by our most important launch since the Royal Oak. It is also our last year with a production limited to 40,000 units while we continue the process of switching from our wholesale to retail business model. There is no lack of challenges and new ones will soon arise.
MARC A. HUERLIMANN Speaking of sales – how was the year 2018 for AP?
MARC A. HUERLIMANN Everyone is talking about the millennials, how do you target an 18 year old with a price tag of 50,000 CHF?
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS 2018 meant yet another record year for Audemars Piguet, the seventh in a row. Our revenue hit 1.1 billion CHF, which represents a 10% growth. Nevertheless, we will continue with a volume of 40,000 watches in 2019 as planned. From 2020 onwards, we might slightly increase the annual volume to meet the steadily growing demand. So overall, the company keeps developing itself while staying true to its DNA and what it stands for.
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS The average age of our clients is between 30 and 35 years. Today, we even see a lot of very young clients under the age of 20, who are actually introducing their parents to the brand, not the other way around. One of the keys is to speak their language, which we are constantly trying to stay updated with thanks to new media for instance, but most importantly thanks to the help of our young clients who are eager to share their point of view with us.
MARC A. HUERLIMANN Quite a few competitors of AP are struggling – what does AP do differently?
MARC A. HUERLIMANN What role will Social Media have in that context?
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS I can only speak for AP and if I had to sum it up I would say we never stand still. The strategy implemented over the last years is more and more rewarding and we continue to focus on long-term qualitative growth. We keep a well-balanced worldwide sales strategy focused more and more on retail via the monobrand boutiques and AP Houses. And it’s just the beginning.
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS Social Media is an important way to already reach out to this new generation of clients. There is no crystal ball though, so it is hard to see what’s going to happen in the future! MARC A. HUERLIMANN SIHH 2019 was the last for AP. What are the reasons?
MARC A. HUERLIMANN How important is the family ownership in that context?
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS The concept of a fair no longer represents our commercial needs in the market. Getting closer to end-customers, understanding their needs and providing them with better quality and quicker service is at the core of Audemars Piguet’s strategy. The consolidation of the distribution network is therefore a prime objective for the manufacturer in order to gain direct access to clients. The decision to end the partnership with the SIHH naturally follows this consolidation process.
FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS It is the heart and soul of our corporate culture. Our owners are thinking and planning in terms of generations, not quarterly reports. At the same time, when decisions are needed, they will be taken in an efficient manner. As Jasmine Audemars said: “Today, it’s no longer about the big fish eating the small ones, it’s about the faster ones getting the upper hand over the slower ones.”
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
MARC A. HUERLIMANN What will AP be planning instead of SIHH? FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS We are going to favour smaller launch events which will be organised closer to the delivery dates of our products during the year. The idea is to improve our “time to market” and offer our clients a quicker, almost immediate, delivery service. Some customers don’t want to wait six months for their watch once they have ordered it. We understand this and have made it our ultimate objective to put the client at the centre of our strategy. MARC A. HUERLIMANN Last question, if not in the watch industry – where else would we find you, François? FRANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS So many possibilities! Music is my passion so I could well picture myself as a Broadway musical producer, who knows what will happen next. The best is yet to come.
POWER SUMMER FESTIVAL 16 August â€“ 15 September 2019 Info: lucernefestival.ch
UR O Y ET
T E K IC NOW
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WAT CHES & JEWEL LERY
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HER IMPERIAL MAJESTY OCEAN INDEPENDENCE 122
MOTION Text: HELENA UGRENOVIC Photo: OCEAN INDIPENDENCE
Within fourteen years after Nicolas Dean and Peter Hürzeler jointly hoisted the sail in 2005, the most powerful yacht charter management was created, with the world’s largest luxury charter fleet, including 6 international branches: Ocean Independence. Freedom, adventure, luxury and eternity. As sparkling as the crest of a gentle wave or an iced Dom Pérignon. 123
team that has more experience and expertise in the maritime domain than any other brokerage firm, forming an efficient and dynamic global network with 16 offices around the globe and 26 nationalities. For a delightful ship to be led by joyful personnel, selecting the right crew is a key concern of management, and Ocean Independence recruits their yacht crews with the utmost care. Only highly motivated and exceptionally capable captains and crews meet the highest standards of the Ocean Independence Management Quality Seal. They have also developed a dedicated yacht etiquette program to meet the high expectations of a super yacht crew. It is an unprecedented concept, a condensed and tailor-made course, held aboard a super yacht and with Hanspeter Vochezer, president of the Swiss Butler Association. A guarantor that the crew offers the highest level of service after this specialist training and passengers experience comfort and professionalism at the highest level.
An experienced yacht broker finds his destiny in Brighton a few decades ago and sells his first yacht at just 19 and a former captain of big motor gliders who later founds Ocean Cruise and remains faithful to his love of the sea and ships are together joining forces to create synergies and set up a charter company. They have integrated more charter agencies over the years and the 100th Central Agency yacht in 2010, opened offices in Mumbai, Malta, the US and Auckland to name a few, and are renting and selling super yachts, and whoosh: this is now the largest luxury charter company in the world. Yachting the seas of the earth, the money is flowing, the reputation precedes them, and all are happy. A happy family. This would be the short version. The (too) simple short version. The success of the luxury yachting empire is made up of an infinite number of components that are interlinked, intertwined and worked out to the smallest detail. The goal of the founding fathers Dean and Hürzeler as well as their teams is at the same time a passion: for charter guests or buyers to not only have a tailor-made charter experience on a extravagant yacht, but to provide incomparable competence and ultimate yachting lifestyle in the most beautiful spots of the world. Incidentally, no yacht broker is more successful in the German-speaking market than Ocean Independence.
AND THE WINNER IS – “MIMI LA SARDINE” It is the latest addition to the charter fleet, which has been put into the water in October 2018 and in the summer of 2019 will set sail for the first time with paying guests. The 33-meter motor yacht of Cantiere delle Marche offers space for up to 12 guests with five double cabins. The interior design blends seamlessly into three decks with several lounge areas and a warm pool on the sun deck. On January 27, 2019, the “MIMI LA SARDINE” charter yacht was awarded the “International Design and Innovation Award” for the year 2019 at the “Super Yacht Design Symposium” in Cortina, Italy.
BEHIND THE SCENES They are aesthetic, graceful, fascinating and sexy, some a little smaller, some more dominant, some simpler, some more pompous and ostentatious. Each one of them is impressive and awaken longing. Boarding, you throw yourself into one of the expansive leather armchairs, choose culinary delicacies from a silver platter, feel the wind in your hair and the salt on your skin, watch the glitter of the waves, experience new impressions with every meter of passing water, the evenings caressed by perfectly designed lighting and under the starry sky in the middle of nowhere, with friends to celebrate life. Freedom to feel. To be one with the five elements. Water, air, earth (from a distance), the fire of passion and a breathtaking yacht lifestyle that is unique and incomparable. However, until the anchors are weighed, the engine is cranked and yacht lifestyle begins, whether as a guest or as a buyer, an entire crew of professionals work perfectly with each other like gears of a chronograph. Ocean Independence offers a holistic all-round service, distributes, manages, repairs and builds super yachts. The highest level of service consists of a
SUPERCAR DRIVING TOURS EUROPE & UAE Between infinite deserts and winding mountain pass roads: Book your adventure of a lifetime. Our offices:
Zurich | Munich Nice | Dubai
The Supercar Owners Circle gathers in the Middle East
Text: MARC A. HUERLIMANN Photo: SOC
The Supercar Owners Circle is the world’s most exclusive network of car collectors. Only owners of the rarest and most prestigious supercars of past and present are eligible to join. Besides opening doors to a wide range of supercar experiences, SOC offers members a wide range of services and benefits through its partners, from auction houses to best in class travel and lifestyle brands. The membership is by invitation only, and the network is currently limited to 150 people. The Supercar Owners Circle hosts one SOC Weekend per year on each continent. In addition to this, SOC invites members to a variety of smaller SOC Get Togethers, usually organized around popular automotive happenings like the Concours d’Elegance in Villa D’Este in Italy or the Goodwood Festival of Speed in the UK. The first SOC Weekend of 2019 took place in Dubai and Abu Dhabi earlier this year. PRE Magazine was offered a unique insight into this spectacular yet very private automotive gathering. The event kicked-off with an exhibition in front of the yacht club at the Bvlgari Hotel & Resort in Dubai. Amongst the 40 participating cars were several one-off creations, such as a Pagani Zonda 760 AG or Ferrari SP30, as well as some classic cars like the very rare Ferrari 288 GTO. The atmosphere amongst the members is casual, friendly and relaxed. People trust each other, which is a common feeling at SOC events. It’s a gathering of automotive enthusiasts, not to show off their possessions, but to enjoy them in all their glory with fellow petrol heads. More than $100 million worth of supercars are lined up and parked casually on the promenade for all the admirers to enjoy. After having enjoyed a welcome reception, participants were invited to attend three unique presentations in the board room of the hotel. These ‘educational’ elements offer an unparalleled insight into the industry with the ultimate aim to build personal and direct relationships between car manufacturers and the attendees, another perk of the membership. Amongst the speakers were the CEO and Chief Designer of the Italian Coachbuilder Touring Superleggera, who unveiled a supercar based on the Lamborghini Aventador that will be available exclusively for SOC members. Other presenters included the CEO of
the German Mercedes Specialist Mechatronik and the Founder & CEO of the local hyper car manufacturer W Motors. After the presentations a watch making showcase was hosted on board one of the yachts, before the Dubai police escorted the participating cars to the Grand Opening of the Pirelli PZero World in Dubai. On the second day participants drove in a police convoy to the SBH Royal Auto Gallery in Abu Dhabi, the private car collection of Sheikh Sultan Al Nahyan, a fellow SOC member. In the afternoon participants had the chance to drive their cars on the famous racetrack of Yas Marina. The event ended with a dinner at the Cipriani restaurant on Yas Island, overlooking the circuit. Their next gatherings will take place during the Geneva Motor Show in March, during the Formula 1 Grand Prix in Shanghai in April, and during the Concours d’Elegance Villa D’Este in May. Collectors who would like to join the SOC network should get in touch with the Supercar Owners Circle via their website.
1 (previous page) A Koenigsegg Agera RS driving on the famous Yas Marina race track during the SOC Weekend UAE. 2 A one-off Pagani Zonda 760 AG, commissioned by an SOC Member based in Dubai. 3 Participants of the SOC Weekend UAE from all around the world gather with their rare supercars at the marina of the Bvlgari Hotel Dubai. 4 (next page) Porsche 918 Spyder with matching number plate arriving at the event.
J O I N t h e WO R L D â€™ S m o s t E XC LU S I V E N E T WO R K o f C A R C O L L E C TO R S : T h e S U P E R C A R OW N E R S C I R C L E The SOC is a network of the worldâ€™s most discerning car collectors, bringing together the most prestigious and uncompromising supercars of past and present in a private luxurious environment. Get access to the best automotive events, redeem exclusive privileges and enjoy personalized support in every aspect of your supercar ownership. As a one-stop source of advice and services, the Supercar Owners Circle provides its members an unparalleled experience.
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HARLEYDAVIDSON The veteran of Milwaukee hums into the Electro Age.
Text: FRED HUBER Photo: PETER FONDA AND DENNIS HOPPER IN EASY RIDER
Harley-Davidson has always been more than just a motorcycle brand. For many, Harley-Davidson is a myth, an attitude of life, for some even a religion. But the classic Harley drivers are getting older. Now trendy electric bikes are eÂ nsnaring the grandchildren of todayâ€™s Harley customers. Daniel Huber
PRE 1903 21-year-old William S. Harley and 20-year-old Arthur Davidson build the first single-cylinder Harley-Davidson motorcycle in a small log cabin in Milwaukee. A little later, Arthur’s brother Walter joins in.
1920 With an annual production of around 30,000 units, H-D has become the largest motorcycle manufacturer in the world. 1956 Elvis buys his first H-D.
1907 After William Davidson joins in, the three Davidson brothers and Harley establish, as equal partners, the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Incorporation.
1960 H-D builds a Vespa-like scooter called Topper. It remains a one-time slip-up.
1909 H-D developes a V-shaped 45-degree twin-cylinder engine. The V2 concept has survived until today and becomes synonymous with H-D.
1969 Steadily falling sales figures are forcing H-D to merge with the industrial group AMF.
“Last year, for my 50th birthday, I fulfilled an old boyhood dream and bought a Harley-Davidson,” says Roger proudly at a business lunch in Zurich. New biker Roger works in management of a successful SME, is married and has two teenage children. Since he is over 25 years old and is in possession of a driver’s license he immediately got a learner’s permit for “big” unthrottled motorcycles. He now enthusiastically talks about his first rides on his brand-new “Forty Eight” in chopper-look, which only has the small 1200 Sportster V2 engine, but for a little more than 13,000 francs including ABS it already conveys the powerful rumbling and daring Harley Feeling. In this way, memories of the heroes of youth are awakened in the mind’s eye, Marlon Brando in the legendary rocker movie “The Wild One” or, of course, “Easy Rider” with Peter Fonda. Harley riders can basically be divided into two categories: the well-heeled manager, dentist or middle-aged banker, who like Roger fulfills his boyhood dream, and the motorcycle rocker or in the Harley slang “Bad Guy”, who often puts his last pennies into his machine. For some, driving a Harley is a break from everyday stress, for others it gives a kind of purpose to life or is a means of identification. If the two guys sit on the same bench at one of the many clubs, you couldn’t tell one from the other. Also, if you do not want to sew the Harley logo on your leather jacket yourself, you’ll find a huge selection in the dealer’s clothing boutique. Some detractors claim that the company now earns more money with accessories than with motorcycles.
ON THE OTHER HAND, IT IS PRECISELY THE BAD REPUTATION OF THESE “BAD GUYS” THAT SELLS SO WELL.
RELICS OF A ROMANTICIZED PAST The official marketing strategy is aimed at the politically correct, well-paid Opinion Leaders. The big boys from the red light district, with whom the bikes from Milwaukee were always associated, are insignificant as buyers. On the other hand, it is precisely the bad reputation of these “Bad Guys” that sells so well. Only thanks to them does any brave office worker on a Harley connect to anything daring.
MOTION 1981 The H-D management buys its independence back.
2003 To celebrate its 100th anniversary, H-D launched the Open Road Tour around the world with a grand finale at its Milwaukee headquarters, which is visited by over 250,000 enthusiasts.
1983 The US government uses a protective tariff on imported motor cycles to strengthen the domestic industry.The company founds the Harley Owners Group HOG. With over one million members, today it is the largest motorcycle club in the world.
2014 With the LiveWire, H-D presents the prototype of an electric m otorcycle.
1986 H-D goes public.
2019 LiveWire is expected to go on sale in selected markets from the summer onwards.
2001 H-D launches the first V-Rod-model with water cooling.
Harley’s conventional Harley models with its beefy, fierce design, but a faint hum gives way to the legendary rumbling of two cylinders. It remains to be seen whether, through environmental awareness the Tesla effect of Prestige can also gain ground in Harley’s much more emotionally charged motorcycles. For Roger, it is above all, this rumble that makes him dream the big boy dream of freedom on two wheels.
Technically, the brand’s success is a phenomenon. The aircooled V2 engines, which have steadily grown since 1909, are regarded as completely antiquated in professional circles. Even the “revolutionary” advance of the V-Rod with liquid cooling, launched in 2002, when compared to competing models, is at best state-of-the-art. But it is probably this deliberate release from today’s hectic technology controversy that accounts for Harley-Davidson’s fascination and success. Rolling archetypes that bear witness to an earlier, romanticized past. After the turn of the millennium Harley-Davidson began to economically take off, culminating in the record year of 2006 with 370,000 motorcycles sold, but then sales abruptly collapsed in the crisis of 2008 and since then, despite interim recoveries, it has never come close to the old peaks. It is expected that the 2018 sales figures will be only around 235,000 motorcycles sold worldwide, which is less than what was sold just in the US ten years ago. TWITTER TIRADE BY DONALD TRUMP And then last summer Harley also ran into trouble with the American President Donald Trump. During the election campaign, he celebrated Harley as the epitome of the successful “Made in America” company and even invited the bosses to come to his office at the White House, but last summer then barraged Harley with bitter criticism via Twitter because the company had announced in June that it would relocate part of the production abroad to avoid EU retaliatory duties on American goods. This additional cost of an average of $2,200 Harley had not passed on to its European customers because such a price increase would have strangled the already stuttering sales engine even more. For new customers such as Roger, they are amongst the last stragglers of the traditional Harley target group of baby boomers. His sons know nothing of the myth of the Milwaukee bikes. They either commute by public transport or swift scooter from the surrounding area into the city, whatever is easiest. PICK UP THE BOYS WITH ELECTRIC URBAN-BIKES For this new type of clientele – especially in the important Asian market – Harley intends to launch new urban models with less cylinder capacity or even with electric drive in the coming years. This traditional US company takes a risk this year with its first foray into this exhaust-free future with the launch of the fully electric LiveWire. This is still very close to
One is the best-selling electric car in the world, the other is a 50-piece limited edition super sports car with cult potential: Nissan LEAF and GT-R50 are Beauty and the Beast — two cars which are like day and night.
NISSAN BEAUTY AND THE BEAST Nissan knows how to apply its expertise in high-end car production to clientele at both ends of the consumer scale. Time and again, the Japanese automaker – who, together with Renault and Mitsubishi Motors, forms the world’s largest automotive group, and sells more than 10.6 million cars a year – surprise us with special vehicles that are unique in their own way. Nissan is currently attracting attention with two such models. Since 2010, Nissan has proven its competence in sustainable mobility with the pure electric vehicle, the LEAF. Right from the start, the LEAF, with sales of over 380,000 cars, has taken the lead in the growing sales of electric vehicles to top the global sales list. The latest model is the LEAF 3.ZERO, with the 2018 successfully launched 40 kWh battery, offers a range of 270 kilometers in the new WLTP cycle. And that’s not all. The LEAF e + 3.ZERO special model, limited to 5,000 units across Europe, is currently supplying even more e-power: its electric motor boosted to 217 hp and the 62 kWh lithium-ion battery guarantees a range of up to 385 kilometers.
The GT-R50 by Italdesign is to dream beautifully and in pure contrast to the LEAF. A spectacular super sports car with much cult potential, which Nissan has built as a limited edition of 50 autos, supported by the world-famous Italian design company Italdesign. Just in time for the 50th anniversary of the Nissan GT-R sports car and Italdesign, Nissan’s latest offering pays homage to the great fan base of sporty automobiles. Powered by a handcrafted 3.8-liter six-cylinder engine and with a power output of 720 hp, the GT-R50 ensures enthusiasm wherever it is spotted. Since its debut at the famous Festival of Speed in Goodwood, UK, it is with interest to see who will be the fortunate owner of this vehicle in the future. Starting at € 990,000, the dream GT-R50 comes true.
Text: THOMAS BOROWSKI Photo: NISSAN
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MO TION H U B L O T. C O M
Eric Guillemain was born in Morocco. He lived in Paris until 2002, before moving to New York. There he worked closely together with the famous photographer Peter ÂLindbergh. Since then, Eric has been one of the most sought after photographers in the New York fashion scene. The French photographer loves to travel the world in order to photograph the most beautiful women and the most interesting personalities. His focus is to portray people naturally and authentically, to show as much emotion and authenticity as possible. Eric Guillemainâ€™s work is distinctive, honest, challenging and connects with the spirit of our time. ERIC GUILLEMAIN REPRESENTED BY DS PHOTOGRAPHERS
Next page: JENNIFER L AWRENCE Dior
Left: DIANE KRUGER/NORMAN REEDUS GQ Italy
Right: LOU DOILLON Marie Claire
FASHION Previous page: CHIHARU Vogue Japan
Left: KERI RUSSELL Malibu Magazine
Right: VANESSA PARADIS VS Magazine
Left: PHOEBE TONKIN Harper Ì“ s Bazaar Australia
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total look MAX MARA
FASHION The WEEKEND story was photographed by Patrick Hellmann Schlosshotel in Berlin.
PHOTOGRAPHY Suzy Holtgrave ST YLING Davor Jelušić ST YLIST ASSISTANT Jade Sheils MODEL Linde Dericks @Paparazzi Model Management
HAIR & MAKE-UP Melanie Hoppe PRODUCTION Snesha Bloom @Call List Agency Zurich
Left: dress ERMANO SCERVINO hat CALVIN KLEIN 205w39nyc earrings SAINT L AURENT from mytheresa.com Right: total look PRADA
Left: shirt BALENCIAGA glasses SAINT L AURENT earrings MARNI pants JOSEPH all from mytheresa.com
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total look ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
FA SHION WO MEN
The news of Karl Lagerfeld’s death was a great shock to the fashion world. But the world is not only losing a unique designer who revolutionized the fashion scene, but also an incredible photographer who could fill dozens of galleries with his images. We at PRE bow to Karl Lagerfeld and report on the great master as a photographer. Karl Lagerfeld has influenced fashion for more than half a century. In the mid-1950s, he began in Paris, leading to success of major couture houses such as Balmain, Patou, Chloé or Fendi. In spite of all his creative work, the fashion designer, who studied art in Paris for three years starting in 1964, nevertheless, in one of his countless interviews did not want to call himself an ‘artist’: “People who actually practice another profession, but claim that they are artists have a problem. Helmut Newton never said he was an artist. Only those who have doubt say so.” Karl Lagerfeld was a person who entirely concentrated on what he was doing.
Ever since he discovered his love for photography in 1987 he combined the two worlds of fashion and art in front of the camera. Initially, he scanned his own designs, later he created black and white portraits, monochrome landscapes and architectural footage. In 1996 he was awarded the Culture Prize of the “German Society for Photography” for his photographic work, and in 2007 the Infinity Award from the “International Center of Photography” in New York. In the same year he presented the exhibition “One Man Show” at C / O in Berlin, in which Karl portrayed the US model Brad Kroenig, whom he discovered and promoted, in 350 black and white photographs amid multimedia installations. In 2007/2008 he exhibited his work in the halls of the much esteemed architect Tadao Andos, of the Neusser Langen Foundation. In 2013, in his hometown of Hamburg, his works were juxtaposed with those of the 19th century Neoclassical painter Anselm Feuerbach. At the very latest, it was during the Paris Fashion Week 2013 that his two passions completely merged: For his spring / summer collection for Chanel, Lagerfeld designed 75 oversized works of art that lined the catwalk of the Grand Palais. The designer photographed all Chanel campaigns, the Chanel lookbooks, created his own photo series and designed large illustrated books. His work “The Little Black Jacket”, for which he photographed stars in the black Chanel tweed jacket, also toured in 2013 in the form of an exhibition through major cities. Other exhibitions showed his photos of Rolls-Royce limousines or the Roman Trevi fountain that Lagerfeld had shot for Fendi. Lagerfeld’s style is characterized by a rather classical elegance. He creates perfectly lit and flawless fashion photography that should seduce and not shock. Among his favorite artists Lagerfeld counted both German expressionists, Russian constructivists and Old Masters. He loved the drawings of Picasso and appreciated Jeff Koons, James Turrell and Richard Serra. But even if he was always very active as a collector, he never wanted to decorate his living room walls with his acquisitions: “Artworks should exist in the head, not as trophies on the wall!” He explained in a report. Good art should not be taken too seriously; it is only discovered in secret. For something to collect, he preferred books and is said to have owned more than 300,000 books in his seven apartments. Whether as an artist, as a designer or as a photographer – we will miss YOU, YOUR style, YOUR humour and YOUR zest for action – Adieu Karl et merci pour tout! Text: MARC A. HUERLIMANN Photo: PASCAL LE SEGRETAIN (PORTRAIT)
Homage to Karl Lagerfeld 30 Years of Photography 21 February —15 May 2019 Galerie Gmurzynska Zurich
MISTER BOOMBASTIC He has neither training in fashion nor in design, instead a Bachelor of Science in Civil Engineering and a Masters degree in Architecture. However, what he does create drops like a bomb and rockets into cult-like status. He is the founder of the streetwear label OFF-WHITE, DJ and creative director of Kanye West, and artistic director of the Louis Vuitton men’s line. Virgil Abloh. Artist and wonder boy, who turns visions into gold.
OFF-WHITE Virgil Abloh is one of those people whose brain pours out inexhaustible ideas and ticks 240 hours per day. In the right place at the right time? Perhaps. Rather, having his finger on the contemporary pulse he pumps in new and unprecedented life with his designs. OFF-WHITE are diagonal striped zebra hoodies, yellow hot striped belts, boots with the words “For Walking”, “Little Black Dress” written on the little black dress or “Cash Inside” on a
bag. He relies on partnerships such as Levi’s, Moncler and Nike, ref lecting the ethos of the brand in its collaborative projects with its own aesthetic of OFF-WHITE. It is stylish fashion that is so different, that lets seasonal trends fade, that’s bursting with coolness, and with each piece a special statement is made. Virgil Abloh, who sits in an airplane 350 times a year, is the rock star among designers. He
is loved and adored by teenagers, inf luencers, famous fashion empires and furniture stores, as well as celebrities. THE BOY WHO DID NOT WANT TO BE AN ARCHITECt – Virgil was born on September 30, 1980 in Rockford, Illinois, in the USA. His parents are immigrants from Ghana; his mother a seamstress and his father a manager at a painting business. Although Virgil had a brilliant mind, howev-
er, like so many teenagers, he did not know where his professional path should take him. “As a kid, I didn’t care at all about my education. Later on I thought, oh, maybe I’m interested in something like a niche culture, a street culture in the 90s, hiphop, or rock-and-roll. Although probably, I would have a regular job, like a 9 to 5 thing.” Why his Ghanaian parents named him after a Roman poet, is unclear to him. “I do not know where they got
that name from, but I think they may have seen it in a movie.” After high school, he studied engineering at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, which he found cool but unfulfilling. He completed a course in Renaissance art history before earning his Masters degree in architecture from the Illinois Institute of Technology. THE COLOR BETWEEN WHITE AND BLACK – After graduating in 2009, he worked for
Fendi. At the same time Kanye West was also working at the Italian fashion house, he shaved the Fendi logo on his hair and like Virgil was paid $ 500 a month. Here he also gets to know the then CEO of Fendi, Michael Burke. In the company’s office in Rome, Italy, the two start their collaboration. One year later, West appoints Virgil Creative Director of his creative agency DONDA and in 2011, asks him to act as Artistic Director of
Jay-Z / Kanye West’s “Watch the Throne”, earning Virgil a Grammy nomination for his creative work. In 2012 he founded his first company, Pyrex V ision, a small couture streetwear boutique which was also intended be to an artistic project. He next buys $40 worth of items from Ralph Lauren, uses a screenprinting process to co-brand the logo on hoodies, basketball shorts, socks and f lannel shirts and sells the Ralph
auren shirts for $ 550.00. After a short while, L Virgil closes Pyrex Vision, as he did not want to make a commercial venture out of it, and joined forces with the “New Guards Group,” a crew of Italian fashion moguls, to launch OFF-WHITE. OFF-WHITE c/o Virgil Abloh defines the gray area between black and white as the color OFF-WHITE, as he explains to the press, his investors and c ritics.
THE ROAD TO THE THRONE – Virgil jets back and forth between two continents as he establishes OFF-WHITE in Milan, Italy, in 2013, where he opens his first fashion house. A year later, he presents his women’s collection at the Paris Fashion Week and his line is selected as finalist for the LVMH Prize, an industry prize, but loses against Marques’Almeida and Jacquemus. He then opens his first concept store in Tokyo, Japan,
where he founds the first furniture branch of the company “Gray Area”. In 2017, Nike asks him to design a collection entitled “The Ten”, in which he will reshape a variety of best-selling shoes. Virgil deconstructs and redefines ten signature sneakers, including the Air Max 97 and Air Jordan 1. He revamps them with a nostalgic, but refreshing, design-update, giving them riveting color combinations, eye-catching details and clamps
that make every sneaker a must-have, making sneaker freaks burst into tears for the limited run and “sold out”. It is the moment when his glory sky rockets and where he and OFF-WHITE are omnipresent. In 2018, Time magazine rightly selects him among the 100 most inf luential people in the world. What accounts for his success has been aptly described by the Japanese artist Takashi
Murakami, “Through our creative process, I got to know his noble character. Everything is principled, from the way he uses his time to how he makes his judgments. The basis of its value or branding is humanity itself, not a superficial trick. The enthusiasm of teenagers for the stripe patterns and arrow marks he has created for his label OFF-WHITE is not a passing trend. Rather, it shows that Virgil’s young followers, with their
«I have no ideas in a test tube. I come up with ideas by breaking test tubes. I’ve always been like that. » Virgil Abloh
unadulterated eyes, have been at the core of his creativity ever since his first product. In addition, his appointment as the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Collection further enhanced his merit around the world. CORONATION – The way he takes the time and leisure for all his projects is almost incomprehensible. He not only owns OFF-WHITE with its 15 f lagship stores, located in all the hottest mega-cit-
ies from New York through Busan to Tokyo and across the globe, and in addition, he founded the RSVP Gallery in Chicago and works in the #BEEN #TRILL crew. If that’s not enough, he is still DJing and mixing tracks that are played by other designers during their fashion shows in Paris, London and New York. As a filmmaker he has produced the music video for rapper Lil Uzi Vert, is creative director for DONDA by Kanye West, and sits
practically all year round in airplanes, economy class mind you, and has a wife and child. He is an example of multitasking and is an icon. Michael Burke, whom he met while at Fendi, has been following Virgil’s career with great interest all these years. Burke, a highly paid manager in the luxury label industry and who has led traditional companies such as Christian Dior, Fendi and Bulgari as Chairman, CEO and Managing
Director, is CEO of Louis Vuitton and since June 2016, also sits on the management board of the Fédération Française de la couture. The traditional brand Louis Vuitton is hip, which is to the credit of the CEO. Also, Burke was not just the international manager of the year for 2018, but the only artist amongst the managers. In 2018, he brought the talented Virgil Abloh to Louis Vuitton to take over the artistic direction of the men’s collection.
He is the first African-American in a leading position in the traditional French house. With his debut at last year’s Men’s Fashion Week in Paris he set new accents with his Spring/ Summer 2019 collection “Color Theory” and heralds a new and very promising era.
Text: HELENA UGRENOVIC Photo: STUDIO JOHANNES BAUER, KRISTY SPAROW (PORTRAIT)
FA SHION MEN
B L A N C PA I N . C O M
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Beauty Doctor Colette Camenisch reveals the most exciting trends, tips and therapies from the field of beauty practice. She receives us in her stylish, spacious rooms in the heart of Zurich, on Beethovenstrasse 9. Everything is in soft colors, harmony prevails. We speak today about skin, an even complexion and fresh appearance.
Text: BEATRICE SCHÖNHAUS Photo: MARTIN SWEERS, SVEN GERMANN (PORTRAIT)
DR. MED. COLETTE CARMEN CAMENISCH She studied at the University of Zurich and did her doctorate as a specialist in general surgery. In 2008 she moved to Stockholm, and in 2011 returned as senior physician of plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgery in the Cantonal Hospital Thurgau. Between 2012 and 2017, Dr. Colette C. Camenisch was a specialist in plastic surgery and a partner in the Pyramid Clinic in Zurich. In addition to breast and intimate surgery, since April 2017 she has been a senior physician at the Beethovenclinic Zurich, and in Switzerland in general, a leader in aesthetic-surgical facial rejuvenation. Since 2018 there is also a Dr. med. Colette C. Camenisch high-quality care line, the Cosmetic Cell Concept. colette-camenisch.com
BEAUTY & WELLBEING
The spirit of this practice can be felt immediately: here, women (and men) should feel comfortable, professionally well looked after and understood. Entering the bathroom, everything is confirmed: pure accessories and care products makes you passionate about beauty. Dr. Colette Camenisch likes people. “I do not want to turn people into identical Barbie dolls, such as the impression you sometimes get with the role models found on Instagram (à la Kim Kardashian). I also do not want the result to look artificial and contrived. My personal approach is about making the people who come to me look fresher and more radiant.” At the moment, 90 percent of her customers are women and 10 percent men, though the trend is increasing. What is the most important thing to consider when deciding to visit a cosmetic surgeon? “That you definitely turn to a specialist with appropriate training. This is very important because the substances that are involved here must be used by a doctor! It’s not just about appearance, but also about health. In addition: it is crucial that you think carefully about what you want, and then get detailed advice. Usually people have a lot of questions, such as: When can I return and resume my social obligations? When can I return to work? Can anyone notice anything from the outside? What is possible, what is the procedure, what can I expect and what not, how often does the treatment have to be repeated and how much does it cost?” Dr. Colette Camenisch provides precise information, can give you detailed advice and perhaps also advise you against doing something. “It is important that the expecta-
tions regarding the result remain realistic, so that you can really rejoice and feel much fresher after the treatment.” What is the newest and most exclusive treatment that you currently have in your practice? “That’s a treatment utilizing your own blood. That sounds surprising at first, but it brings great results. Your own blood, which is taken by the doctor, is processed into a serum (in technical terms this is called Exokine-Therapie®), so that it is cell-free, free of coagulating factors and additive substances. This is unlike other, similar procedures. When this is injected under the skin the quality of the skin gradually improves and the complexion appears smoother with the effect lasting 9–12 months depending upon the condition of your skin. You will look fresher, younger, and healthier without anyone realizing exactly what has been done.” Who is the target audience of Dr. med. Camenisch? “People from 35 to about 60 who come from all areas of life: personalities from business, politics, sometimes even celebrities or mothers with their daughters.” What are the initial costs that you should expect? “That depends on your expectations, skin condition, hormones and general lifestyle. The cost ranges from 3,000 Swiss francs and up.” Can one also prepare for such a treatment? “Yes, one’s lifestyle is important. It is best not to smoke; to drink plenty of water; have a high protein diet, but low in fat, with ideally a lot of steamed vegetables; not to eat too many carbohydrates; and do some regular exercise (3–5 hours a week, for example). In short: to be in optimal condition so the result is even more beautiful.
BEAUTY & WELLBEING
SPRING IS IN THE AIR
TREND BEAUTY SPRING IS AROUND THE CORNER
THE FRESHNESS OF SPRING
It’s about rediscovered feelings, inspirations and the latest make-up look: the matte look. We will show you everywhere it has appeared. What it looks like, who is wearing it and how to imitate it.
The products for the Look
Dior’s “Foundation Backstage”, 40 shades, can be found in specialist shops, at Marionnaud, Manor, Jelmoli, etc. Approx. 55 francs.
“Skin Long-Wear Weightless Foundation SPF 15” by Bobbi Brown, 17 shades, can be found in specialist shops, e.g. at Globus, Jelmoli etc. Ca. 61 francs.
“Foundation Fit me matte & poreless” by Maybelline, retailers. For example, at Manor, etc.
Text: BEATRICE SCHÖNHAUS Photo: FLORIAN SOMMET
BEAUTY & WELLBEING
Daffodils, tulips and hyacinths: pastel-colored spring flowers that give us a fresh sense of life. Both their scent and their look inspire us. Just as a new romantic, flattering dress with pastel-colored flower petals (for example from the Australian label Zimmermann) or a refined floral scent. But what really inspires us in spring is a new make-up look! With individually harmonised care, a delicate foundation and pastel colors in exciting textures because then we can discover a new self, feel different, up-to-date and redefine our existing wardrobe look. Reloaded, so to speak. In addition to the much-vaunted Glow (which I also like a lot!), a surprising phenomenon popped up at the ready-towear shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris: the matte look. Viewed at the ultimate show for Spring / Summer 2019 at Fendi’s (featuring It Girl Gigi Hadid), Burberry, Michael Kors and Dior. The models looked fresh, young and so wonderfully innocent, the new silhouettes and cuts were so perfect. The matte make-up look captivates with its light appearance, transparency and an important focus on care. It’s as if the make-up artists had reinvented the freshness of spring. It is no longer about covering the skin and any irregularities, but emphasizing the beauty of one’s complexion. “Not decorative enough for me,” some will say, including probably some Instagram girls. They often work with a lot of paint, artificial eyelashes and other aids. That’s not true! It must be done correctly because the matte make-up look only works when the base is right. This means: The complexion and its appearance must appear absolutely even. Like a perfect canvas for a painting.
STEP 1 A gentle exfoliation, moisturizer, drink plenty of water and tea regularly, fix blemishes. STEP 2 The right foundation! Here it is best to get advice from the expert at the cosmetics counter or in a perfumery. If in doubt, choose a skin tone lighter than darker. STEP 3 The actual look. Apply the matte foundation carefully (preferably with sponges), cover the dark areas with concealer, slightly dust off the eyelid, emphasize the eyebrows with a pencil and apply mascara. Nurture the lips with a balm and then powder. The hair for this look: shiny, freshly washed and naturally styled. For whom does this look really really work?, skeptics will ask. The answer is everyone, if done carefully. It is best to have it demonstrated by a specialist at the counter (for example, Jelmoli), so then you can imitate it perfectly at home. Okay, dear Instagram girls: If this is all too close to nature and not optimal for your image, you may apply one of the new coral red (matte!) lip colors. If this is too strong: A fine cat-eye eyeliner also works because both are very popular spring trends. And they are fun!
THE PERFECT WORKOUT
WE MEET TIFFANY BURK SCHMID, THE CLUB MANAGER, AND JOHN LEKATIS, THE GYM MANAGER OF HOLMES PLACE SEEPARK IN OBERRIEDEN, FOR AN ÂINTERVIEW IN THEIR IN-HOUSE RESTAURANT. THE FITNESS CLUB LOOKS FRESH, FLOODED WITH LIGHT, GLAMOROUS, 192
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WONDERFULLY RELAXED AND LOCATED RIGHT ON LAKE ZURICH. BEATRICE SCHÖNHAUS Generally speaking, what is trending in workouts?
TIFFANY BURK SCHMID & JOHN LEKATIS We have been won over by the TechnoGym devices which are attractive, functional and efficient.
TIFFANY BURK SCHMID Some things have changed. You can see fitness very differently today. It’s about focusing on strength, flexibility and stamina, and then as a fourth factor, the so-called “mindfulness”, the new mindfulness. This means that you can feel the tension in your body and with the help of a good coach, find a way to release it so that you manage to live in the here and now, in a natural, relaxed flow. Then, you find that you suddenly have more energy and vitality.
BEATRICE SCHÖNHAUS What are you particularly paying attention to here at Holmes Place Seepark? TIFFANY BURK SCHMID & JOHN LEKATIS That people feel comfortable in our community and that the entire process is right for them. In this way, training does not only cover individual elements, but also encompasses the whole. In addition, it is important that everything comes back into balance. For example, one tends to lose mobility over time and with age, and one’s sense of balance diminishes. We try to very slowly bring everything right back into balance and in a way that it is fun. We also offer a comprehensive program for group lessons from Yoga to Flow Bow.
JOHN LEKATIS Yes, men and women should learn to feel their own body more, and not just follow an exercise program. BEATRICE SCHÖNHAUS How do you achieve this goal?
The coaches also know exactly what the proper diet for the individual looks like. They are trained accordingly and provide a personal program for each person on request. As I said: Everyone is entirely different.
JOHN LEKATIS During the first appointment we carefully determine what individual training program is needed and how many times per week is necessary in order to quickly feel better. At the beginning usually one time per week, after half a year training twice a week is good. Afterwards, it would be ideal to train 3 times per week, however, this is not always realistic.
So our vision is: We want people to come here, have fun, feel well cared for and do everything for the long term, so they quickly realize how well they are doing. Therefore, our four points – strength, agility, perseverance and even mindfulness – are becoming more and more important to ensure a positive quality of life in our hectic daily routine.
TIFFANY BURK SCHMID We try hard to look at each person individually, because every person and every body is again different, and accordingly reacts quite differently during workouts and with diets. BEATRICE SCHÖNHAUS What equipment do you have at Holmes Place Seepark in the training areas?
Gym Manager John Lekatis has therefore exclusively divised for you, as a PRE reader, 7 powerful exercises: Do these exercises 2 or 3 times a week, 10 repetitions each, 3 times, because doing it 3 times is guaranteed to lead to a fitter body and improved lifestyle. In addition, you can increase mobility, strength, endurance and bone density. All muscles in the body are activated, and you feel younger and fitter. The best anti-aging medicine ever!
1.KSQUATS. A PERFECT
EXERCISE FOR EVERYDAY LIFE, STRENGTHENS THE MIDSECTION AND LEG MUSCLES. 2. LUNGE. SERVES TO STRENGTHEN BALANCE, COORDINATION; HELPS WITH SKIING, TENNIS 194
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AND A GOOD PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE FOR AGEING. 3. DO THE ABOVE WITH WEIGHTS (DUMBBELLS). THIS MAKES EXCERCISES 1. AND 2. EVEN MORE EFFECTIVE. 4. PUSHUPS. GOOD FOR CHEST, TRICEPS AND MID-SECTION. 195
A MOVEMENT INVOLVING THE ACTIVATION OF MANY MUSCLE GROUPS. THIS IS EXCELLENT FOR MEN AND WOMEN. 5. ROWING. AN IMPORTANT EXERCISE FOR THE BACK. ESPECIALLY FOR THOSE WHO SIT A LOT IN THE OFFICE. GOOD FOR POSTURE. 196
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ACTIVATES BICEPS, BACK AND STABILIZES THE BODY. 6. PLANK. ACTIVATES THE FRONT MUSCLES OF THE BODY. ALSO ACTIVATES THE MUSCLES IN THE AREA OF THE SPINE. EVEN RECOMMENDED BY WHO (WORLD 197
HEALTH ORGANI SATION)! 7. SHOULDER PRESS WITH AGE OUR SHOULDERS LOSE SOME POWER. IN COMPARISON, EXERCISE 7 HAS THE EFFECT OF MAKING YOU FEEL FIT AND HEALTHY. It is best to arrange an appointment with a personal coach before the targeted training, in order to be well-informed regarding the possible methods, the actual state of one’s fitness, and the desired goal according to your age. At the moment, in addition to the 7 exercises mentioned above, the treadmill or moonwalker is also a great way to keep fit. Depending on the person, group training e.g. Pilates or Flow Bow, yoga or weight training can lead you to your goal. It is important to get advice from a professional and to begin very gently but regularly because that is the only way to have fun, and you will soon experience positive results.
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ST. MORITZ IN WINTER: A DEEP SNOW ROMANCE
Living in Luxury with Maura Wasescha
Text and photo: MAURA WASESCHA
My view right now? Nothing but the bright blue sky over St. Moritz – not a single cloud in sight. Outside is 120 cm of fresh snow, and on days like this, I realize once again how stunningly beautiful this valley is. Of course, even now in the middle of winter, when St. Moritz reaches top form and depending on your taste, you can either show what you have in the village – or on the ski slope show what a perfect downhill looks like. Days like these also delight me because I know that dozens of my customers are content to cuddle up in their chalet, villa or apartment in St. Moritz or Suvretta and enjoy how wonderful it is to be at home. It takes a lot of time, commitment and passion until I find the perfect place for my sophisticated customers. I am proud that in the four decades I have been working in this business, I have really learned something: to listen well. Only in this way can I find out what my customers really want – and need. It is not always so easy to formulate, which is why I need a lot of flair for my work. There are claims that at this price level we no longer have to talk things over: 40 years ago, when I started, the question was, “Does the kitchen have an oven?” 30 years ago: “Does the kitchen have a dishwasher?” Today, my customers ask, “Is it fun? A swimming pool? A home cinema?” Expectations have risen; also regarding the individual residences. My portfolio is as exclusive as my clients, so in 2019 I have decided to work even more selectively and “only” rent and sell 40 properties in Switzerland; another 20 are added abroad. Only in this way can I offer the highest quality. On working days, I am often available to my customers for 14 hours. That’s why it’s so important to me that I can regularly recharge my batteries. Almost nowhere is this more enjoyable than here in St. Moritz! A winter
walk through the pine forests is enough for me; without mobile phone, without headphones. Only then can I hear the twittering of the birds and the sound of the wind while switching off properly. And that is real luxury for me.
The successful real estate agent Maura Wasescha draws on 40 years of professional experience and is considered the “best networked” in the field of luxury real estate. In her new column for PRE, the native of Italy regularly provides insight into her varied everyday life, tracks tendencies and trends in the global market for high-end residential properties and shares her favorite discoveries; whether in her adopted home of St. Moritz or on one of her many trips around the world. Her next destination: Phuket. More about her current “Luxury Properties for Rent and Sale” at maurawasescha.com
The signature of Gaetano Irpinio, Creative Director of The Vendome Group, is unmistakable, although subtle: simple designs based upon a very opulent foundation. A reduced, but perfectly crafted aesthetic.
Text: STEFFI HIDBER Photo: VENDOME GROUP
’sec’. The few parts that give volume to a room should speak a clear language. That’s our distinctive mark.” Sustainability plays a key role in all business areas of the Vendome Group: On the one hand, they basically do not undertake designs that are trend-oriented or that have already been created in such a way that they will be replaced after a few years with the “next big thing”. On the other hand, they use hydrogen in their production facilities, and their manufacturing processes are certified – and are also controlled. An estimated 80% of the packaging material can be reused, and the wood waste needed for insulation is shredded and used for heating. Of course, there are differences in the longevity of the furnishings which they make for a five-star hotel or that of a two-star hotel, such as the Ibis Hotel in Zurich, one of their recent projects. “It’s just a matter of different demands, not aesthetics,” says Irpinio. Working on a limited budget is even great fun. “Then it’s all about the small details, the refined finesse, that ends up looking really great without having to be expensive at all.” The simple interiors of the Vendome Group – whether a luxury hotel or private residence – are of a timelessness and elegance that will be long in demand. For 2019, there are some exciting projects for the design house based in Rotkreuz: in early summer, a large design collaboration will finally be announced, consisting of three hotels (two in Switzerland, one in Milan) and a number of private customers are also scheduled. You will recognize these projects by their soft but self-confident whisper, “Made in Italy”. For details see: www.thevendomegroup.com
“Custom-tailored designs for the most beautiful venues worldwide”: The Swiss interior design company, The Vendome Group, has counted among its clients an illustrious range of hotels and high net worth individuals, including The Chedi Andermatt, Mandarin Oriental Paris and the Park Hyatt Milano. From the development and planning of the design and the individual furniture production, up to your ready to move in dream home, at home and abroad, here the complete interior work is professionally taken care of. Everything is from a single source, and from a very stylish hand: that of Gaetano Irpinio. After studying interior design in Milan, the aspiring Zurich designer gained experience with star architect Antonio Citterio. This opportunity influenced him both personally and in his aesthetics: Whoever knows the Bulgari Hotel in Milan will recognize Citterio’s lavish signature. The Vendome Group speaks the same language, but with a gentler, reduced dialect that is particularly appealing to customers in Switzerland. “Italy plays a very important role for us, both in terms of craft and design,” says Irpinio. The Vendome Group works as a contractor with its own carpentry, upholstery workshops and factories that produce luminous objects or bronze sculptures: all Swiss designed and Made in Italy. For perfect quality and compliance with all its design goals, the Vendome Group employs its own scouts, who constantly visit the production sites and check the work process. This is “essential” at the level of custom workmanship. For the family man, the art of understated luxury is clear in the choice of raw materials worked with. “The few materials we use are very precious. Whether it is for a sofa or a sideboard which we design and custom make in Italy, it’s really all very
X2 Office Dante Bonuccelli X2 Office Dante Bonuccelli
TRENDSCOUT â€”â€‰INTERIOR DESIGN
The renowned, internationally active interior designer Jan Simon devises and implements unique living environments throughout the world. For PRE, he will report on the latest trends in the area of living and design.
After years of purist restraint, of simplicity and timelessness, a new trend in living is emerging in 2019. It elegantly presents itself with individual retro elements which are inspired by the Art Deco period, and also by mid-20th Century design. Design pieces are being reinterpreted as furniture soloists. In terms of color, the eye-catchers are shrouded in blue-green tones, rich petrol blue or softer earthy red-pink nuances. Gold and brass-colored details convey warmth and value, and wood is and will remain a central design element. Exotic species such as rosewood, teak and eucalyptus are equally worthy of mention alongside oak and walnut. The love of marble and high-quality textiles such as velvet and nubuck leather remains a constant. 2019 will be an exciting year full of individual uniqueness.
Text: WILMA FASOLA
HERMÈS / FACADE COL & ZEBRURES COL
HENGE / MODEL LIGHT RING
Quality has its price, especially if it comes from the house of Hermès. Known worldwide for its elegance and inconceivable quality, the French label is the epitome of exclusivity. Every textile is inspired by colors, shapes, animals and motifs. Each piece is an impeccable overall picture that shows itself in new splendor every day thanks to the interplay of color, light and materials..
With the “Light Ring”, Henge creates the perfect lighting design. “Su misura” is made to measure and handcrafted, the pendant lamp is available in different sizes and is custom made based on the customer’s request. Available with brass or steel rings, it guarantees a true light effect.
MINOTTI / MODELS LAWRENCE, SONG UND LOU Shapely and timeless – those who like exclusive, elegant, classy design pieces can not ignore Minotti. For many decades this company has been a f lagship and symbol of “Made in Italy”. The individual luxurious pieces are particularly stylish in their overall composition, such as the “Lawrence” sofa, the “Song” lounge table and the “Lou” side table.
TOM DIXON / MODEL FORM FAMILY
B&B ITALIA / MODELS BUTTERFLY AND BAY
EDITIONS SERGE MOUILLE / MODEL LAMPADAIRE 3 BRAS
Those looking for a new favorite spot under the open sky have found it with the “Bay” braided collection by Stilikone B & B Italia. The armchairs are the ideal retreat that combines comfort, style and contemporary design to perfection. Ideally, the chairs are supplemented with the side table “Butterf ly”. The characteristic feature of this series is a graphic macro-weave of twisted fibers in the trendy color “tortora”.
Craftmanship “Made in France” – the edition Serge Mouille is something of a must-have for anyone who wants to enhance their own four walls. Grandiose effects and illuminating rays of light: so instead of a f loor lamp, grandiose illumination as well as enlightenment. More is not possible. Period.
The British celebrate their tea-time, and for Asians, the preparation of tea is an actual meditation. With “Form Family”, designer Tom Dixon provides the perfect accessory for an artistic afternoon break. The made of brass set by the self-made man Tom Dixon, convinces both visually and functionally – very trendy and the long-lasting, ideal companion for leisure hours.
MINOTTI / MODEL QUADRADO
NAHOOR / MODEL PULCINELLA
“Freedom” is the guiding principle behind the collection “Quadrado” by Minotti. The upholstery is supported by teak slats, which makes the outdoor furniture visually light and f lexible. The modular system also makes it possible to stylishly furnish entire residential landscapes, even for oversized spaces such as your outdoor area.
New design by William Pianta for his Company Nahoor. The table lamp “Pulcinella” ref lects the current zeitgeist. First and foremost, it is retro and at the same time modern. The perfect workmanship and solid materials give the lamp its character.
“Houston” is Giorgetti’s first real estate project. Together with partners, the Upper Kirby District in Houston, Texas will be home to a luxury building with seven storeys. The plan is to have 32 residential units, which of course, like the entire project, are in the hands of Italian designers. So here you will find Giorgetti’s typical combinations of maple wood, metal and leather. The exterior of the building was also entirely inspired by origami. Our tip: Currently there are still apartments available.
GIORGETTI — MODELS URBAN, SWING AND ROUND
GIORGETTI — MODEL 90 MINUTES
Big football is the model “90° Minuto” – table football furniture that’s almost too beautiful to play with.
“Hug” rightly bares its name – peacefully, the seat section is embraced by the nutwood frame. Available in a fabric or leather version to create the perfect retreat, because you can never get enough hugs.
In no other place can Giorgetti be experienced as impressively as in the design metropolis of Milan. The showroom on the Via Durini demonstrates in absolute perfection how the unique pieces of the collections can be assembled into an exclusive whole. Or, as one critic once benevolently put it, “living together in one room with peace of mind.” In this photo, the living area which consists of “Urban” sofa, “Swing” armchair and “Round” lounge table.
Hardly any art is as irresistible as the art of furnishing. “BE at HOME” presents its very own line and skillfully translates it into an individual world of furnishing.
Text: LONE K. HALVORSEN
HAUTE COUTURE FURNISHING In the living area, as in the business field, BE at HOME, with Bruno Stebler as the creative head of the team, creates with passion and a professional commitment, a unique mood with a personalized atmosphere utilizing high-quality materials, high-quality products and creations especially created for the customer.
environment: That’s the vision of Bruno Stebler. The customer is always the central focus. Inspired by water and the woods, he mainly uses natural materials and earth colors. Even carefully selected art objects and accessories reflect this preference. Also, BE at HOME’s own creations are very popular: individually unique that are the “icing on the cake” for the perfectly coordinated ambience. This passionate interior designer skilfully plays with various stylistic elements and transforms them into his own personal design language, which is shaped by the individual lifestyle of the customer. A fundamental role is also taken by the lighting concept. Bruno Stebler differentiates between basic illumination, the individual situational lighting and decorative lighting. “Light creates an atmosphere and helps to enhance a room’s ambience,” says Stebler.
FROM DREAM TO PERSONAL LIVING SPACE BE at HOME has long been known not only for its selection of curtains, furniture and lighting, but also for comprehensive, personal advice and planning right through the entire implementation process. This includes not only the interior design as a whole, but also small changes or construction management with the help of a site manager. Every step must be right. The basis for the furnishing process begins with a consultation with the customer since only when Bruno Stebler knows what the customer wants can he be creative. On the basis of sketches, dreams and desires are designed, and with 3D-planning, realization moves one step closer. Every idea and every sketch inspires the next. In order for the project to be successfully completed on time, an appointment program is created. Cost and construction supervision are as much a part of this as the finishing touches and final acceptance. The customer is thus accompanied from idea to full implementation. If desired, Strebel even provides a turnkey solution, a ready to move in home, with everything that goes with it.
FULFILMENT OF ITS NAME Located directly on the Römerhof in Zurich, the inviting showroom in the Römerschloss offers inspiration and insights into the comfortable interior design concepts of BE at HOME. The product portfolio includes international brands, including some exclusively for Switzerland. Interior designer Bruno Stebler is supported by a small, well-rehearsed team. Attention is paid to every detail, because only in this way can perfection be pursued, and only then can the name of the company be fulfilled.
SHAPED BY BEAUTY AND AESTHETICS To create for the customer an interior that reflects their personal style while providing a harmonious and aesthetic living
Maximum Wellbeing What is luxury, if you don‘t have the time to enjoy it? Maura Wasescha
Luxury means not having to be concerned with its practical matters, but to be able to enjoy the perfect moment in the company of family or friends. Totally free of worry, knowing that in the background there is a team who will fulﬁll all your wishes. This is why Maura Wasescha doesn’t just have exclusive properties for sale or rent. Maura Wasescha does more. She offers the perfect luxury service, so that the magic of the moment becomes timeless enjoyment.
Maura Wasescha AG | Via dal Bagn 49 | CH-7500 St. Moritz | Switzerland T +41 81 833 77 00 | firstname.lastname@example.org | www.maurawasescha.com
B R A N D VA N E G M O N D . C O M
K E L LY W E A R ST L E R . C O M
LI VING 219
CULI NA RIUM 221
ZURICH A GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY THROUGH THE CITY Text: INA RESIAK
You do not know me. Although I like to be a guest in many restaurants, bars and cafes, the restaurateurs do not know what I am really doing. I analyze and rate them. Why do I do that? In order to make really good recommendations to my friends and business partners that go beyond “You can go to Kaufleuten”. Why? Because I know more about food and drink than I would like. But one thing at a time. If you open a restaurant in Zurich, you must know the latest trends, a brasserie for vegans, Thai food with local ingredients or a chef who can conjure up a perfectly roasted steak with embers and ashes. Proper maturation of the meat included. Zurich is not necessarily a trendsetter in terms of culinary highlights, but the small town on the Limmat is smart, it waits and then lets new places grow out of the ground like mushrooms. So it turns out that a pioneer such as the trendy “regionality”, is soon followed by an armada of new eateries. That makes it even difficult for connoisseurs like me to keep track. Let’s get started, for example, by following my tips below. BALTHO KITCHEN & BAR This restaurant and bar is dedicated to St. Bartholomew. A meeting place for foodies, neighborhood residents, tourists and suits in the middle of Zurich, who enjoy their food and drink in a cosmopolitan atmosphere. The kitchen philosophy is: timeless classics, regional and seasonal, characterized by a pinch of internationality throughout the entire day: morning, noon and evening. So it is not surprising that pork, beef, veal and chicken are labeled with their country of origin “Switzerland”. That’s why I opted for Rindsbäggli braised in Pino noir, potato and celery mousseline with cabbage and barberries. A glass of Pinot noir Schiterberger Himmelsleiterli by Landolt Weine is perfect for this. It is considered the flagship of Zurich wines. The concept in the “Baltho” is consistent, and on leaving the premises, the bartender was enticed into posh small talk about gin. Gianni Vergani once said to me: “Italian wines are to be drunk, not collected. Otherwise, the same bottles would go around the world, and nobody would have drunk them.” PARKHUUS How right Gianni Vergani was, and this saying leads me to the restaurant “Parkhuus”, where local ingredients naturally combine with modern elements. Frank Widmer, Executive Chef, is a master of the creative alienation of common cuisine . What at times sounds like tradition and as modest as “Swiss housesmoked char, mesclun (extra-fine leafy lettuce), fermented chanterelles, gin, tree nuts, red wine vinegar and lemon jelly” turns out to be a complex, exciting dish of the highest standard. Creative, new Swiss cuisine having a cosmopolitan and elegant ambience with panoramic windows and in proximity to the Paradeplatz. “We work with nature, not against it,” says Frank Widmer. BAUERNSCHÄNKE What do I love so much about my job? The lovers of details and quality fanatics, as met in the “Bauernschänke”. Diem. Mlinarevic. Schindler. The 3 musketeers, who you should remember ultimately rely on a modern, tasty kitchen with a slight tendency towards international flair. Nenad, Valentin and I met on a cold, windy Wednesday in January. We were at the “Stammtisch”, the regular’s table which was set, just to the left
faces?”, he opens his phone contacts and shows me the number 6,999. That makes me wonder about the man, who seems to have an elephant memory and who knows so many people without electronic support. I also like his kitchen concept: “The most important thing in a eatery is the food, basta!” Being conservative works very well in Zurich, so does veal Wiener schnitzel, beef fillet Stroganoff, Dorade royal with boiled potatoes and having avocado and carrot salad on the menu. The kitchen conveys a sense of joy, casual pleasure that you should share with others. “I treat my guests the way I would like to be treated myself.” – Seigi Sterkoudis.
of the entrance. Purists. Plates, water and wine glasses. Napkin. Cutlery. A large window gives me a view of the alley “Rindermarkt”. The concept of local ingredients and sophisticated small dishes to share connects with the current zeitgeist and arouses my appetite. Nenad orders for us: Potato soup, leek, nut butter. Pot roast ravioli, sage butter. Fried chicken thigh, pumpkin herb salsa and Stewed beets, my favorite by the way. The presentation by the service staff is pleasant, refreshing and joyfully offered. The teams’ good spirit shines upon the whole restaurant. The dishes have the scent of rich spices, perfect for my sense of smell. We taste the dishes, philosophize about the preparation and the inspiration for the dishes, and Nenad says with satisfaction: “One should not see the effort but only taste it.” With that I can only agree. Tip: If you are very enthusiastic about gastronomy and appreciate true hospitality, quickly order one, two or more tickets for the culinary event in May 2019 in Zurich, with an after dinner party at the Widder Hotel. www.menu1-6.com RAZZIA The team works hard to make Razzia a gastronomic gem in the 8th district. The “Razzia” skilfully combines travel, food, drink and lifestyle in a “Great Gatsby” atmosphere with the much-traveled giraffe Zarafa. The menu is full of classics as well as seasonal creations of meat, fish and poultry, as well as vegetarian dishes complementing the fusion cuisine. The spectacular ambience of the walk-in wine cabinet is a dream come true of every wine lover. Stay inside and taste would be my motto, but I should dedicate myself to the dish that was served to me in the romantic backyard garden. With a plate of Spaghetti Vongole and a glass of Grüner Veltliner Bachgarten by F.X. Pichler, I consider my conclusion and marvel at the twilight: 100 points for an unforgettable experience. Tip: A visit is worthwhile in the new café: juice, breakfast, lunch, cake and a cocktail bar in Zurich Seefeld. Because what rules here: cheerful ease.
FLAVOURS In Jan E. Brucker we again find such a traditionalist. With the “AuGust” on Rennweg, he brought back varied, tasty Zurich gastronomic culture. He honours the guild of butchers. In a casual brasserie ambience with black and white colored tiles on the wall, the chef pampers his guests with down-to-earth meat and sausage specialties, refined with crispy-fresh market vegetables and seasonal ingredients from the region. Busy people can take home the delicacies thanks to integrated street sales. Regionality for the home. Amen. But the Bruckers, Jan & Regula, have also been preparing for bigger things and offer guests a sense revelation based on a spice guide, namely in the “Widder Bar & Kitchen” (WB & K). It is the heart of the Widder Hotel, which belongs to the group “The Living Circle”, and cleverly combines the city’s history with the modern flair of design and culinary art. Also from the region is the executive chef Tino Staub. His concept art is called “mixing” but might be better described by the catch phrase “food pairing”. The restaurant is a stage for crossover treasures, and so on my plates, which were placed at intervals: Swiss duck with mushroom tartare, seabream ceviche and king prawns with black pepper from Cambodia. In addition, I order a “Prelude Royal” mixed in the in-house bar. All this taken together is an impressive surprise. Imitation allowed.
RESTAURANT KAUFLEUTEN Leaving gastronomic institutions untouched is probably the best advice the “Kaufleuten” crew has taken from days gone by. The Kaufleuten restaurant is as sacred to the people of Zurich as other time-honored institutions in Zurich. Therefore, ordinary people like me and celebrities alike appreciate the cosmopolitan-laid-back atmosphere which is always decorated with fresh floral arrangements and has a homey touch. Seigi and Steli Sterkoudis are responsible for the resurrection of this place. Thank God! Seigi, who is always called by his first name, I had the pleasure to meet one fine evening in the wine cellar of Vini Vergani. In a good mood (who is not, if there is pasta à Tavola), he wears a distinctive beard, is massively warm, congenial and has tattoos that describe his life. It’s nothing new that a culinary establishment needs a face to it. He loves to be in this place and pass on his passion and joy to both staff and guests alike. He definitely has it, Seigi. When I ask him the question: “How many names can you assign to
PIC CHIC Because I still did not have enough of food concepts that day, I trudge over a few streets into the “Pic Chic”. Hardly entering the market hall all senses are already animated. A mural over the bar
adds extra charm to the large space. Right next door, lovingly and down to the smallest detail, hot dogs are served. If you follow the corridor along the the shop window, you can choose between delicious sweets from the Péclard in the Schober Patisserie, fresh sandwiches and salads from the La Sandwicherie de Miami, and finally the colorful and healthy juices or oriental mezze from Fruitmix. A new trick by an old acquaintance: Michel Péclard. In “Pic Chic”, Smith & Smith has set up a slightly hidden wine cellar and bar. Finally, a new meeting place for an after-work drink. The versatile, delicacies-inspired food is rounded off with freshly rolled sushi from the conveyor belt provided by the “Chedi” Hotel in Andermatt. So many regions can not be grasped. It looks so delicious and I cannot resist a “Kiss my Egg” – a bowl of salmon, rice and a poached egg. “Legger”. The multi-talented Péclard operates 14 businesses, nine of them on Lake Zurich. He also runs the traditional pastry shop Schober. What inspires me about Michel is that he is headstrong and very original, a man of action, and hopefully he remains like that. VINI VERGANI, THE 5TH GENERATION Tonight I still expect guests, so I drive past the wine house Vergani and select a wine accompaniment for the menu which is just in my head. With the Vergani family you feel at home and somehow part of the family, even if you are visiting the Mediterranean Enotheque in district 3 for the first time. Here you will find, in addition to very good company, the best wines from all regions of Italy, a significant selection of Italian Grappas and also a lot of personal advice. I choose L’Anima di Vergani. It was filled with Amarone, intense and at the same time lovely. Structurally rich but elegant on the palate. With this wine, I take a piece of their family spirit home with me and later pour it into my friends’ glasses. JELMOLI FOOD MARKET A market walk in a department store is possible. The name Jelmoli “The House of Brands” stands for the famous premium department store, at its best address in Zurich, and thus generally for a unique shopping experience. In the food market you will find delicacies from the region and from all around the world. My highlight, as a cheese lover, the first cheese humidor built by Fredy Bieri in Switzerland, is located in the basement of the department store and calls out to be admired. I buy two of the approximately 150 types of cheeses directly from the ripening room ... The food department has been restructured, and thanks, into individually thematic areas, such as the Mediterranean area with Italian delicacies and a new wine world, everything now has a culinary structure. Because I love flowers so much, I stroll down to Alfons’ flower market in the basement and buy a customized, modern bouquet for my home made out of white Callas and a rich green Xanadu leaf. “A flower is not complete without a leaf.” – Tao-shan. SERI For Seri Wada, craftsmanship is his guiding principle. The bread maker focuses on baguettes, croissants and pains au chocolat, supplying many cafes in and around Zurich. No wonder that Michel Péclard got wind of it and offered him his oven at the “Milch bar” at Paradeplatz. A baguette quickly lands in my shopping basket, and I will offer it as a welcome to my guests along with Prosciutto di Parma, green olives and wine.
MAME Properly trained and highly decorated baristas can be found in Zurich in the “Mame” on Josefstrasse in Seefeld. Too often espresso is not treated with the respect it deserves. The art of the Barista is to optimally combine all the aspects of espresso preparation to deliver reproducible espressos. “The best coffee is the one that tastes good.” Euphoric and in a good mood after all the great experiences and encounters in Zurich, I arrive home and open the Amarone first and foremost. My friends will love this slightly astringent but extremely concentrated, almost creamy red wine. A direct hit. I must confess, I lied to you earlier when I said that my dinner menu was only in my head. I’m a preparation freak and have already cooked four, 250 gram rumpsteaks in a vacuum bag, in a 56 degree water bath for one hour. Remove the steaks from the bag, pat dry. Wash three branches of rosemary and a few stalks of thyme and shake dry. Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a pan, sauté the steaks in it on both sides. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat. Add butter, rosemary and thyme and then repeatedly coat the steaks with the brown butter. Serve when the guests are already at the table. Ding, Dong – alas, these will be my friends ... My conclusion: “Zurich, hats off. You’re on fire with good taste.”
A Text: ALAIN WAFELMANN Photo: JULIA BRUDERMANN / HANGAR 7
DISÂ COVERY 228
Is it a coincidence that the two-star Spanish chef Fernando Perez Arellano from Sierra de Tramontana, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in north-west Mallorca, traveled to the hometown of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to celebrate his art at the top restaurant “Ikarus”? Of course it’s no coincidence; Top Chef Fernando P. Arellano followed the call of Eckart Witzigmann and Martin Klein, both of whom are responsible for the guest chef concept at Salzburg’s top restaurant “Ikarus” at Hangar-7. The restaurant “Ikarus” is one of Austria’s top addresses as it has once again received 18 Gault & Millau points and 3 Michelin stars. Eckart Witzigmann’s history would by itself fill a book, including being named “Chef of the Century” in 1994 by the renowned restaurant guide Gault & Millau, an award that has been bestowed upon only four chefs worldwide. Today, among other things, E. Witzigmann holds the patronage of “Icarus”. Martin Klein acts as executive chef and is thus the operational head of Hangar-7’s top restaurant, this replica of steel and glass, which today houses technology, art, cuisine and entertainment. Martin Klein, with his two chefs Jörg Bruch and Tommy Eder-Dananic, is responsible for the overall top performance of this impressive kitchen. Fernando P. Arellano has dedicated himself to the evolution of traditional Mallorcan cuisine in the restaurant “Zaranda”, which is a part of the luxury hotel “Castell son Claret”. It is no exaggeration to call him a virtuoso artist of the kitchen. Since 2013, the Spanish master has cooked for his guests on the Balearic island of Mallorca with fresh ingredients, most of which come directly from the region. After having taken the miraculous route through F. Arellano’s kitchen, the
ingredients end up on a plate as highly creative works of art that not only captivate the olfactory and gustatory sensations, but also visually convince. AT THE CHEF TABLE IN THE KITCHEN OF “IKARUS” In the far right hand corner is a large wooden table, the “Chef Table”, from which the entire kitchen of the “Ikarus” can be viewed. You are invited to this table. This exclusive experience is not bookable. This evening, a 9-course menu will be served by Fernando P. Arellano, the guest chef of the month for February 2019. The top Spanish chef traveled with a kitchen colleague to work together with the kitchen team of “Icarus” based upon the subtleties of his ideas, obviously down to the last detail. Because each course – and everything will be presented and served today by the top chef personally – it is convincing by its sophistication and creativity. The wines served impressed throughout the meal, all were top-quality oenological products from Fernando P. Arellano’s home region, except for one. They were clearly and very finely tuned to match each individual course. One notices that the menu was developed as something created to be presented as a total work of art. Individual courses do not quite fit seamlessly into the desired total work of art. However, modesty is not his thing, which seems understandable given his numerous awards. Of course, one leaves the table that evening without any doubt about Fernando P. Arellano’s cooking skills and in the knowledge of having met a master of the kitchen. Fernando P. Arellano goes his way consistently and straightforwardly. He has in his sights, and how could it be otherwise, the third star, the highest consecration.
Two stars Like a general In pots At first The eel So creates the sea Initial contact With palate Beetroot Upon an oyster Loud and stormy In unison In a foreign land Enticing Octopus Entangled In the mouth Nerves So mischievous How engaging Smiles out of the corner The master The poet All ingredients They master the path From the infinite blue To remove wings That daring son From Daidalos The designer of the labyrinth To the Minotaur Red thread throughout The bride Ariadne The god of wines Enchanted Left Behind The guest remains grateful And a little richer
Poem on Fernando P. Arellano
HOME OF EASTER spruengli.ch/shop
SPARKLING Text: HELENA UGRENOVIC
LIFESTYLE Photo: MOËT HENNESSY SUISSE
Enjoy the bubbly taste of the stars? The pop is like life itself? Feeling the lifestyle that is inevitably associated with it? James Bond enjoyed this legendary French champagne in many of his classics, but the days when it was favored by a rather stiff and dusty Upper- East-Side Society crowd are long gone and is being replaced by a life-rocks generation, for which lifestyle means quality. Dom Pérignon. One of the most famous champagne brands in the world and a hip traditional house.
Left: BARBARA BACH and ROGER MOORE, Photo by Hulton Archive
The label, a bit reminiscent of Batman, and just like billionaire Bruce Wayne, there are secrets that lie dormant in every precious drop of this champagne, which not only shows off its vintage editions but also ensures surprises. Eleven years ago, a friendship of a special kind began when rock legend Lenny Kravitz together with his friend from the wine industry met for the first time, in Paris, with the house of Dom Pérignon. Impressed, he delved into the fascinating world of luxury champagne and developed his own philosophy: “I am fascinated by the process of making things, of creating something out of nothing. You have an idea in your mind, in your soul, and your job is to make it happen. When I think about Dom Pérignon, it’s about bringing people together.” How much he is inspired is shown by global luxury goods industry leader LVMH Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton, whose parent company is Dom Pérignon, as he gets Lenny Kravitz on board as the first Global Creative Director in 2018. THE CLEVER MONK He is not, as falsely recorded in numerous history books, the inventor of the legendary champagne, but the monk Pierre Pérignon, or Dom Pérignon, essentially contributed to its development. In the 17th century, the cellar of the French monk was responsible for the economic support for Hautvillier Abbey. Wine production was one of the main sources of income for the monastery and was under the supervision of the monk. With brother Jean Oudart (1654-1742), the cellar master of the Abbey of Saint-Pierre-aux-Monts de Châlons, he worked on a procedure to further develop the oenological process at that time. He realized that the quality of the wine could be significantly increased by blending together different grape varieties. In addition, he sealed the bottles with a cork which he secured with a cord at the bottleneck, and thus invented the first agraffe, the wire clip around the cork, as we know it today. In order to withstand the high internal pressure of the bottle, he used only thick-walled bottles and stored them in the chalk caves near the monastery. The art of assemblage, the cuvée, the compilation of different grape varieties, is due to Dom Pérignon, who is also the inventor of the widespread bottle volume of 0.7 liters, after he had elicited the average amount of drinking of male adults at dinner. He wanted to make the “best wine” in the world and soon supplied the court of King Louis XIV. INSPIRATION Lenny Kravitz is a man of many talents. He is a singer, musician, songwriter, record producer who has been awarded a Grammy, actor, photographer and designer. He inspires and is himself inspired, he explores the subject matter until he feels it and creatively translates that emotion. The first expression of his collaboration with Dom Pérignon is a set of black-andwhite photographs taken in an advertising campaign on three continents and during an international exhibition called “Assemblage”. “It’s about communication. Inspire and inspire others. A reason isn’t needed. Life is the occasion.” Lenny Kravitz extends an invitation to US Oscar winner Susan Sarandon, American actor and producer Harvey Keitel, US singer, actress and model Zoë Kravitz, Chinese-American fashion designer Alexander Wang, French Dancer and choreographer
Benjamin Millepied, one of the greatest Japanese footballers of all time, Hidetoshi Nakata, and Australian model and actress Abbey Lee Kershaw. He captures the alchemy between them, observing their interactions and how they inspire each other. They drink Dom Pérignon, talk to each other, laugh, dance and even portray Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. Like “The Factory” and “Studio 54”, Kravitz connects people and documents the privileged moment of an eternal night in which he finds unlimited inspiration. Mathieu Bitton, a photographer and filmmaker, films this meeting initiated by Kravitz and Dom Pérignon. Richard Geoffroy, legendary cellar master of the Dom Pérignon champagne label for more than 30 years, who has declared 15 vintages ‘millésimes’ since his tenure, aptly describes it: “In recent years, we have come up with the idea of inspiring others and being inspired to give energy and to receive energy. It creates a kind of spiral, in this sense of love and caring, and then it is given back, which is typical of Lenny. That’s why we are so close and connected. Creativity is a great engine that needs to be fueled, and most of the fuel comes from outside. You take it in and then pass it on.” “Maybe I misjudged you, Stromberg. A man drinking Dom Pérignon ’52 cannot be all bad.” – James Bond “The Spy Who Loved Me” DOM PÉRIGNON VINTAGE 2008 The vision of Dom Pérignon is harmony as a source of creativity. Just as every creative process reaches its limits, at Dom Pérignon this is due to the harvest year. The traditional house imposes its commitment to bear witness to the harvest of a single year, even if that means not declaring a vintage a vintage. After more than eight years of maturing in the cellars, a Dom Pérignon vintage reaches its first plenitude – the level of harmony. To this degree, all the qualities are expressed with absolute precision and characterize the perfect balance of Dom Pérignon. The Dom Pérignon Vintage of 2008 marks another milestone in the Dom Pérignon project. With its uniqueness, the Dom Pérignon Vintage of 2008 fits perfectly in line with the previous Dom Pérignon vintage champagnes. “Dom Pérignon introduces the Vintage 2008 and goes beyond the usual champagne canon.” – Richard Geoffroy
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CULI NA RIUM
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HELP IS JUST A SHORT FLIGHT AWAY Text: WILMA FASOLA
IN CASE OF DISASTER, HELP IS NEEDED TODAY AND NOT JUST IN A FEW DAYS. IN ORDER FOR THIS TO BECOME THE WORLD WIDE STANDARD, A SWISS MAN WANTS TO TURN HIS PRIVATE JET AIRLINE INTO A GLOBAL HUMAN ITARIAN AIRLINE.
According to a UN report, around 1.3 million people worldwide died as a result of natural disasters between 1997 and 2017. According to Munich Re, losses in 2017 also amounted to 330 billion US dollars in just twelve months. Also, in 2018 – as the reinsurance company also reported – there were 850 natural disasters worldwide. That is to say: 2.4 per day. The figures impressively show the force with which the earth is fighting against global warming and pollution, while on the other hand, it also proves that Mother Nature still has immense power – even if people often think differently.
TURN DAYS INTO HOURS
Above all, what is frightening in this context is that videos and pictures of disasters find their way into the digital world just a few hours after the disasters hit, but assistance doesn’t reach the affected regions until days later. If a hurricane, an earthquake or the force of nature surprise thousands of people somewhere in the world, surely the first pictures will be available within just a few hours. At the same time, while the media report live at the scene, the advancing aid organizations do not manage to provide personnel and material in a timely manner. This might certainly be a bit exaggerated and perhaps provocative, however, the fact is that in the case of a disaster, the rescuers often take days to reach a crisis area. After the serious earthquake in the spring of 2015 in Nepal, which killed 8,800 people, it took approximately four days for rescuers and help to arrive. This is something that can no longer continue in the eyes of Martial Widemann. “My team and I said at that time, things can not remain like this,” he says. “We sat at the table and considered how we could optimize this situation.” The result of this discussion was the “Moonlight Air Organization” – a humanitarian airline that takes off from a Swiss airport in three or four hours in the event of a disaster anywhere in the world with the goal of reaching the affected regions within 24 hours; including bringing 100 tons of material.
LEAN STRUC TURES ENSURE A SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 242
Martial Widemann, born 40 years ago in Chur, is a passionate pilot and owner of the exclusive private jet company Moonlight Air. He is a man who is convinced that everyone can make a difference, both large and small. “Our vision is immense, no question, but it is realizable! In the event of a crisis we want to save lives, improve the quality of life and make life more liveable.” The first step in the event of a disaster is to coordinate aid and personnel in the affected areas as quickly as possible. “With our concept, we can reach anywhere in the world within 24 hours,” says Widemann. “Our lean structures, our globally active network and our own well-stocked emergency facility located directly at the airport make this possible.” At the same time, help should always be provided where health standards are lacking. The founder of the organization said: “We are also planning a mobile hospital that will allow us to perform European-style operations around the world.” The focus will initially be on heart surgery for children, as well as eye surgery, to implement life-saving and health recovering measures in places that lack on-site experts, materials and hygienic conditions.
FROM IDEA TO SUCCESSFUL IMPLEMENTATION
Currently, the Moonlight Air Organization is about to bring their concentrated power on the road, or better said, into the sky. “In the meantime, we have spent about two years working on this project and have now reached the phase in which we finally want to become active,” says Widemann. To get the project out onto the runway, the organization needs a million Swiss francs. This will finance the first three missions and lay the groundwork for further pioneering work. Incidentally, the creation of the project and the missions have been documented by Oscar winner and filmmaker Jefferson Miller. Afterwards, the Moonlight Air Organization will raise funds in a second round of financing to turn this idea, this project, into a globally unique humanitarian airline, and here one is not alone. Rather, Widemann relies on numerous synergies. “Unlike commercial companies, we have different goals and different structures – so we’re making our capacity available at a fraction of today’s transportation costs so that humanitarian organizations can reinvest their resources in relief supplies.” It is also possible for the Moonlight Air Organization to fly large quantities of medicines – if necessary in refrigerated containers – from point A to point B.
A PROJECT WITH NUMEROUS POSSIBILITIES
At the same time, the Moonlight Air Organization is also helping people help themselves. The founder explains: “Our goal is not just to transport material, but for our partners to also train local people.” Companies should be motivated to work in developing countries. “We can fly in the know-how and fly out the produced goods, which will also stimulate the local economy”, says Widemann. “The possibilities are enormous, and we are firmly convinced that we will make a difference with our project.” There are already numerous advocates and supporters. “The permanent team is still manageable, and our network is fantastic. Therefore, we can quickly increase the already impressive 150 years of professional experience within our team”, says Widemann with an eye to the future. What’s missing is money. Money that will ensure that statistics will show fewer deaths and lower numbers in the next few years.
IS TEND TRENDING? Text: INA RESIAK
Novel technologies are at the heart of some of today’s breakthrough and innovative business and consumer solutions. This is clearly demonstrated by the increasing popularity of blockchain technologies and smart contracts. Marco Abele (51) has been a start-up entrepreneur at the Tend exchange platform since October 2017. He offers a very special kind of experience: Customers can, for example, book a trip with a 1955 Porsche or Aston Martin DB6 or take a private excursion to a winery – which includes 18 bottles of a vintage year. Over an excellent espresso, at the new address on the Schanzengraben in Zurich, I met the founder of Tend, the Swiss entrepreneur, Marco Abele, for an interview. The native German is originally a lawyer. His latest product has been available since May 2018 via an app. Let’s listen to how it works.
WITH TEND WE WANT TO ENRICH THE LIVES OF USERS AND OVERCOME A THRESHOLD FOR THE CUSTOMER.
INA RESIAK Mr. Abele, what is behind Tend? MARCO ABELE Tend is a new form of investment. Major innovations always have a certain complexity until they reach people and it clicks. It was similar with Airbnb and Uber. At Tend, we want to give people access to products and experiences that were previously unaffordable for them or that they did not have on their radar, either financially or because it made no sense to them from an entrepreneurial point of view, to place their savings into only one investment. INA RESIAK What does the customer or user at Tend receive? MARCO ABELE They receive pleasure investments such as in an Aston Martin DB6, classic cars, Stradivari, wine rarities, luxury residences in Europe or art for their home. Return on investment is the buzzword at the moment. Financial products are not or are no longer tangible for many people. Tend is a new form of investment. At Tend, you find pleasure-seeking people, aesthetics and adventurers who together invest in a product. This can be a luxury sports car, an expensive musical instrument, wine rarities or even a luxury residence. INA RESIAK … so to speak, “Luxury Sharing” for everyone? MARCO ABELE Contrary to all expectations, it is resource efficiency that has conquered the luxury tier as well. Anyone who thinks that only students with a low budget are in the idealistic exchange scene of Tend is mistaken. It’s a trend that does not stop even the super-rich. There is talk of joint purchase or participation. Why limit yourself to a holiday residence when the whole world is waiting? Why always drive the same classic car, when a whole fleet could be available? Tend is the starting point for anyone who wants to enjoy a slice of luxury, but some funds might be lacking.
THE NEW BLOCKCHAIN- BASED SYSTEM, TEND, SHOULD LEAD TO MORE TRUST, TRANS PARENCY AND EFFICIENCY.
INA RESIAK What can the Tend app do? MARCO ABELE With our Tend app, understanding of the platform and the experience suddenly becomes very clear and obvious. Download the application software for mobile devices, register and read the individual “teasing assets” such as those regarding wine, cars, real estate or boats. If you see something of interest you can then finally register and get it. Tend is a blend of
the shared economy concept, that I no longer have to own everything alone, and also provides security and a return on investment. I want to experience unique things that I can communicate to my circle of friends and associates. Tend combines this feeling and communicates it to the world. The app is beautiful, simple, clearly structured and user-friendly. There are detailed descriptions of the individual products and experiences. The contracts are already implemented, which can be signed electronically and then sent back to the providers. Should Tend come to an end, no one who has invested will lose anything. Blockchain technology allows data and assets to be stored. No matter what Tend becomes, it is a very modern deposit guarantee fund.
MARCO ABELE Yes gladly. At Tend, we have three clearly defined target groups: the specialists, aged between 40 and 50, who know the different subject areas such as cars, wine and real estate. Next are the passionate, who are people between 30 to 40 years old. They have a yearly salary of 300,000 Swiss francs and love to try out new things. Thirdly, there are the youngsters (25 to 35-year-olds) who are looking for investment options outside of banks. Smart money investments are products that they accept with open arms. Then there are the super-rich, who want to create liquidity and want to keep down maintenance costs of their fleet, mega yachts and their many holiday homes. No matter how much capital is available, efficiency remains a big issue for these people.
INA RESIAK What does Tend offer the user?
INA RESIAK How much does it cost to get started with Tend, and in what currency does the customer pay?
MARCO ABELE Tend primarily offers products that are characterized by a high unit price and a low frequency of use. This particularly applies to luxury handbags, wristwatch collections or classic cars. The Tend business model has been created for durable consumer goods such as real estate, yachts and cars. Since fewer and fewer luxury customers want to bind such millstones around their necks, they instead prefer to enjoy the flexibility of trying something new more often.
MARCO ABELE By the way, Tend will be paid for with tokens, thus with an encrypted software protected digital credit. The basis for this is a cryptocurrency developed in Switzerland. The real thing doesn’t have to be hard cash. Tokens can be used to “buy” experiences from four categories: classic cars, culture and art, luxury watches or real estate and wine. The tokens have no expiration date and gain in value – in parallel with the related cars or works of art. In these successful times, as we have seen with Bitcoin & Co, non-tangible means of payment has become legitimate and forward-looking. The annual membership fees vary between 250 and 2500 francs.
INA RESIAK Who is the target audience? MARCO ABELE Originally, I narrowed the target audience to an “affluent target group” – which has amassed a fortune of between a quarter of a million and two million Swiss francs. This target group is growing very strongly in Asia, in megacities like Tokyo, Shanghai, but also in Mexico City. Asia is already the richest region in the world. In Europe it is different, here my target group is ultra high net worth individuals and millionaires. Although they can afford to make such an investment by themselves, it doesn’t make sense anymore. Sharing products and services is now part of the digital lifestyle. This is especially true for younger adults (millennials) with a high level of education. They perceive property not as a status symbol but rather as heavy luggage, so property loses value in terms of status consideration, and instead, diversity in their portfolio of real assets is on the increase.
INA RESIAK What feelings do you want to trigger in the customer? MARCO ABELE My new address, here at the Schanzengraben in Zurich, is supposed to be a meeting place for potential customers, interested parties and curious people. I want to build trust here. This is the first financial technology company to have a physical lounge. I’m really proud of that. Here, by using virtual glasses, you can see the winery, test drive a Porsche, enjoy the feeling on a boat, view art and share your experiences with us and other investors.
INA RESIAK Can you say a little bit more about the age groups and interests of the target groups?
CURRENTLY THE SAFEST TECHNOLOGY FACTS FOR BLOCKCHAIN DOUBTERS:
TEND: A PLATFORM FOR ALL INVOLVED
TECHNOLOGY CAN BE USED GLOBALLY
IN 2024 BLOCKCHAIN BECOMES A STANDARD
Text: ANDREA KIEFFER
A SWISS GRILL MANUFACTURER MOVES AHEAD 248
Quality and innovation are extremely important to OUTDOORCHEF. Top quality grills have been designed and developed in Switzerland for almost three decades — whilst always keeping the clear aim in mind of presenting something unique to the barbecue enthusiasts of this world.
The demands on modern grills are increasing, not only with regard to preparation, functionality and the barbecue experience. Barbecuing became a lifestyle a long time ago. Small charcoal grills have given way to perfectly equipped outdoor kitchens. Complete menus are conjured up from grills today, which means that the days of charred sausages and dry steaks are definitively over. A grill is not only responsible for a perfect barbecue experience but it should also have a pleasing appearance when it faces a swept terrace or a well-kept garden. Design is fast becoming a differentiating factor. In order to be able to take these trends into consideration, OUTDOORCHEF has worked tirelessly on multi-optional grill solutions and new design concepts. THE RECIPE FOR CULINARY DELIGHTS OUTDOORCHEF’s success story began with the development of the unique funnel system, which to this day still forms the heart of all gas kettle grills. The funnel ensures even heat distribution inside the kettle and it also protects the food from harmful burning fat, as the burner is completely protected from dripping fat and meat juices. This means that you, being the host, can spend more time with your guests whilst the grill specialities are perfectly grilled from all sides, as no turning is needed. Meat, fish, vegetables, etc., all remain deliciously juicy, tender or crisp. Some of the fat and meat juices that trickle into the funnel evaporate which gives the food its typically intense meaty flavour. The remaining liquid runs along the funnel and into the collecting tray, so that the grill remains clean and can be cleaned off afterwards and made ready for the next barbecue party within minutes. GET THE HEAD CHEF FEELING This year’s new LUGANO 570 G enables OUTDOOR CHEF to present a multifunctional gas grill kitchen that meets all of the culinary requirements. The modern design that uses top quality materials makes this grill the eye-catcher on any terrace. The LUGANO 570 G is the first of its kind to combine the benefits of the well-proven OUTDOORCHEF gas kettle with a powerful, direct grilling surface (steakhouse burner) and an additional side cooking plate. The unique funnel system inside the gas kettle is the heart of the grill. The double ring burner system inside the kettle enables slow cooking at low temperatures as well as grilling, cooking and baking at high temperatures of up to 360°. Full power for flashgrilled meat is available right alongside on the steakhouse burner. The direct heat from below and the high temperatures combine to produce perfect steaks. The steakhouse burner quickly adds a fine crust to the meat together with delicious roasted aromas, before it is gently finished in the kettle. This unique outdoor kitchen is complemented by an additional side cooking plate, which is perfect for preparing crispy vegetable side dishes, fried onions for your burgers or delicious sauces to go with a roast. A sophisticated storage concept and the soft-closing door system complete the package.
TRANSFER OF THE EXTRA CLASS
Text: SWENJA WILLMS
When you’re on a journey, you’re already relaxing on the way to your dream destination. “Edel & Stark” offers travel enthusiasts an all-round package in transport matters: In addition to the rental of luxury vehicles, now a limousine service and private jet charters supplement this young company’s range of services. Comfortable and worry-free, you can thus travel throughout the world.
BENEDIKT LÜCHINGER Yachts and private jets were included in our range of offers due to a strong demand. Due to this, we offer nearly full end-to-end transportation in the luxury segment. For example, customers book a limousine transfer to the airport in Edinburgh, fly to Dubai on a private jet and get into their rented Ferrari at the destination to drive around the city. All these services can be booked with us, just from one source, and this is much appreciated by our customers. SWENJA WILLMS Which vehicles are in greatest demand? BENEDIKT LÜCHINGER Both in Dubai, Munich and in Switzerland, Ferrari and Lamborghini are the absolute front runners. Basically, the demand for a specific model is very changeable. Logically, we are also dependent on the marketing of specific models of individual brands. If a great deal of time and money goes into the marketing of a new model, then demand will rise as well. In contrast, there are electric or hybrid cars. Bookings in this segment barely increased over the last three to four years. SWENJA WILLMS What is the reason for this? BENEDIKT LÜCHINGER I think it’s because the electric vehicle industry is not yet so well developed in the luxury segment. The “Tesla S” or “Tesla X” are actually the only models in this field. Porsche currently has only one hybrid car, though next year there will be Taycan, which is purely electric powered. Mercedes has no high-end electric vehicle as of yet. As you can see, there is still no enticing offers, but this could probably be attributed to the low demand.
Zurich, Munich, Dubai. What began in Switzerland in 2011 has developed into a popular mobility concept within the last few years. With branches in Switzerland, Germany, France and the United Arab Emirates, the luxury car rental company Edel & Stark strives to deliver every wish to its customers.
SWENJA WILLMS You have long been anchored in Switzerland, Germany and the United Arab Emirates, countries in which the luxury market is booming – are there any other such lucrative markets for luxury vehicle rentals?
SWENJA WILLMS You give your customers complete advice, from renting a car to a suitable outing including an appropriate stop in a café. Are you turning into a tour operator? BENEDIKT LÜCHINGER Basically, we want to stay with our core strength, a car rental service, however, we would also like to offer this service as comprehensively as possible. Our customers expect us to be able to give them tips on the best hotels, routes, restaurant recommendations and shopping possibilities – really a bit like a tour operator.
BENEDIKT LÜCHINGER Our clients enjoy luxurious destinations that are also strongly linked to the 5-star hotel industry, such as Nice in the south of France, Munich, Switzerland and Dubai. We are also keeping an eye on London – a big market for luxury car rentals. The US also represents an interesting target group. We are very confident that, when the time is right, we can transfer our concept to these markets.
SWENJA WILLMS In addition to leasing luxury cars and limousines, your portfolio now also includes yachts and private jets. How does this offer reach your customers?
HOW TO RUN A FOUNDATION
Text: STEFFI HIDBER
ministrative costs should have the greatest possible impact. The deciding factor for the success of our foundation is that we have sustainably solved problems with these funds. To accomplish this, you have to lead a foundation strategically, which makes the job of a managing director exciting. STEFFI HIDBER What else is part of good governance? DR. JANINE HÄNDEL The law regarding foundations gives us great freedom. It is therefore all the more important to work professionally within the framework of a control system, with a competent board of trustees adhering to its own rules defined in the foundation regulations. The fulfillment of the foundation’s purpose has the highest priority. I can always count on Roger 100%, because it is very important to him to meet the highest governance standards. As a result, we also meet the GAAP FER 21 accounting standards and endorse rigorous foundation supervision.
A conversation with Dr. Janine Händel, CEO of the Roger Federer Foundation, about the successful running of a foundation — and what you should pay attention to as a donor.
STEFFI HIDBER What is important in the implementation of concrete projects on the ground in southern Africa? DR. JANINE HÄNDEL First, you have to know the context in which the projects are implemented. What are the mentalities, cultures and political frameworks that have influence? That’s why it makes sense to focus geographically and work with local partners and experts. Learning is central. We cannot theoretically design a project, blindly implement it, and then years later look to see if we have achieved our goals. The reality on the ground always looks different. Even if an approach has proven useful in the past it doesn’t mean it’s scalable everywhere. You have to constantly question your own hypotheses, learn from the experiences and adapt the project. This is the only way to proactively approach risks, to take advantage of opportunities, and ultimately to maximize their impact.
STEFFI HIDBER Ms Händel, what are the core tasks of a successful foundation?
STEFFI HIDBER Do you have it easier being a foundation with a famous “face”?
DR. JANINE HÄNDEL The Roger Federer Foundation follows the Swiss Foundation Code, which is based on three pillars: good governance, transparency and outcomes-oriented support. Transparency is particularly important for a foundation because some of the funds we use is withdrawn from the donation deduction of the public sector. I think we have an obligation so we must explain that we have invested the maximum amount of money into the charitable causes. In other words, the lowest possible project and ad-
DR. JANINE HÄNDEL Having a famous founder does not make our job any easier. On the one hand, we benefit from the prominence and credibility of the founder in the public’s perception of our work. On the other hand, our expectations are much higher and almost impossible to fulfill. People believe that we will also deliver perfection with the foundation like Roger does on the tennis court. But failure is part of our daily life, otherwise we would not take any risks and would
Dr. Janine Händel already knew at a “very young” age that she wanted to enter the humanitarian field. After studying law, the Swiss worked for eight years in the diplomatic service, then moved to the Chairman’s office of an international company before joining the Roger Federer Foundation in 2010 as CEO. Founded in 2003, the Zurich-based foundation supports educational projects for children in Botswana, Malawi, Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Switzerland. To date, more than one million children have been reached with the support of the Roger Federer Foundation. More information is available at rogerfedererfoundation.org.
avoid innovative approaches. The key is that we fully embody the values and vision of Roger Federer and professionally implement them. STEFFI HIDBER After asking what makes a foundation successful, now the question is: what should be considered when making a donation? DR. JANINE HÄNDEL The same strategic questions that each organization has to face can also be addressed by an individual donor: What problem would I like to help resolve? Which organization has expertise with this? Personal reasons and one’s personal circumstances can be crucial in choosing an issue, such as cancer research after losing a family member. It seems important to me that you carefully select a suitable organization and then build up a donor partnership over several years. Today, a lot of information is accessible online. A look at an organization’s annual report says a lot about how efficient and effective it is. You should also ask yourself if you can offer more than just money to an organization. You can also provide your know-how or your network, which can be more valuable than the planned donation.
LUGANO 570 G
DESIGN. GRILL. KITCHEN. unique.
Now available at your local dealer.
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