International Textile Market March-April 2020 Issue

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From waste to high-quality yarn


With Automation Solutions, Saurer takes next step toward automated factories


Operating Costs: A Vital Factor In Investment Decisions


From the Aztecs to Macintosh and beyond


ANDRITZ to supply a turnkey spunlace line to BCNonwovens, Spain


H&C Whitehead, UK: highest quality end products with BRÜCKNER technology


Mimaki Expands Portfolio with Large-Scale3D Printer


Efcient BCF yarn tangling


perPETual and Polygenta manufacture rPET FDY using Oerlikon Barmag's WINGS


Salad days for the UK's Anglo Recycling


Oerlikon wins three large manmade bers orders in China


Monforts ATC adventures in aquaculture


A close eye on quality with the Eye Compact II 30 ITM and HIGHTEX 2020 Exhibitions Will Be Held Between 14-18 July 2020


Kornit Digital Introduces NeoPigment™ Robusto Softener Solution for Fashion on Demand



Textile Industry Seeks Relief Package to Mitigate Ill-effects of COVID-19 Pandemic Shri T. Rajkumar, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) thanked the Hon'ble Prime Minister of India, Shri Narendra Modi Ji, for taking several war-footing measures to protect the people of India and also calling upon SAARC nations to fight together the deadly pandemic COVID-19. Shri Rajkumar pointed out that the demand for the textile products and also the domestic sales have come down to a grinding halt due to the panic situation created by the outbreak of COVID-19 which was first reported in China and which later got spread to EU and USA as well which are the final destinations for the textile products manufactured in India. CITI Chairman further stated that understanding the gravity of the Pandemic and with a view to control the situation at an early stage, Government of India has issued directions to close all the malls and retail outlets so that people do not further get infected and this decision of the Government has resulted in the substantial reduction in the sales of the domestic textiles & clothing.


CITI Chairman informed that he has requested to the Hon'ble Prime Minister of India to immediately announce a relief package for the Textile and Apparel Sector to mitigate the crisis being faced by the highlycapital and labour-intensive Textile Industry which runs on wafer-thin margin. The Industry seeks the following support from the Government of India: 1. Moratorium for repayment of Principal and Interest Amount to the banks for four quarters (1st April 2020 to 31st March 2021); 2. Exempt all raw materials, dyes & chemicals, intermediaries, spares, accessories, etc., from antidumping duty and basic customs duty; 3. Include cotton yarn and fabrics under RoSCTL, IES & MEIS benefits with immediate effect to prevent job losses for lakhs of people in the handloom, powerloom and spinning sectors; 4. Extend soft loan equivalent to Government dues pending in the books of individual textile units that could be adjusted soon as the Government clears the dues (TUF subsidy, RoSCTL, MEIS, GST refund, etc.); 5. Enhance IES benefit for all textiles and clothing exports to 5%; and 6. Reduce the bank interest rate by 3%. CITI Chairman concluded by saying that the relief package is urgently required to ensure the survival of the Textile & Clothing Industry that employs over 105 million people and also earn around US$ 40 billion forex, apart from substantial revenue under GST and other taxes.

India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Srilanka, Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand, China, HongKong, USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, U.K. & France


March-April 2020

SPINNING From waste to high-quality yarn: Contributing to the sustainable use of cotton with IDF 2 The demand for clothing is increasing worldwide - but the areas for cotton cultivation are limited. Truetzschler contributes significantly to the sustainable use of this valuable raw material with future oriented technologies that enable the production of high-quality yarns from cotton waste. Using your own waste - a clever concept One example of a successful sustainability concept is Bakan Tex in Uzbekistan. The company was founded in Tashkent in 2017 after the government decided to promote the entire value chain around the domestic textile sector. Bakan Tex produces first-class combed ring yarn. In the process, the so-called comber noil, which contains

short fibres and neps that are undesirable in high quality combed ring yarn, is combed out at the combers. As the fibres have already passed through the blow room and over the cards, it is a high-quality "waste". Comber noil is a recyclable raw material which is used, for instance, in banknotes or hygiene products. It can also be spun into excellent rotor yarns. This is made possible by shortening the process through the use of Integrated Draw Frames (IDF). To allow processing into a good yarn, the fibre length can be significantly shorter thanks to the IDF. The yarn is of excellent quality even if 100% comber noil has been processed. Until now, this has not been possible without the shortened process.

Interview with FT Textile BakanTex already uses this great potential. In the subsidiary FT Textile, founded in 2019, a rotor spinning mill which processes the noils of Bakan Tex is operated with 250 employees. 22 IDF 2 produce the feed for 8640 rotors. In addition, the company invested in additional IDF machines and a recycling plant to

process blow room and carding waste with the short preparation process.


We spoke to Mr. SekarRajam (CEO of FT Textile), Mr. Jaya Prakash (Quality Production Manager) and Mr. Abdukayum Saidov (Director) about the advantages of the shortened process with IDF.


(From left to right: Mr. Sekar, Mr. Saidov, Mr. Prakash) Truetzschler: What made you decide to process your own noils with IDF2? What convinced you of this concept? FT Textile: At FT Textile we rely on OE spinning. We use 100 % raw cotton, but also cotton mix with waste (comber noil). This process allows excellent processing of short fibres (fibre length 20.6 mm) into yarn. Truetzschler: What are the main advantages of the shortened process for your spinning mill? Does it open up savings potentials for you? FT Textile: This process is particularly suitable for us, since we can use short waste fibres produced during combing without any problems, in addition to socalled virgin cotton. This not only saves raw materials, but also space, energy and personnel. Truetzschler: How much yarn do you already produce with the shortened process? And how are your future plans in this respect? FT Textile: So far we have produced an average of 450


tons per card. We produce yarn from Ne 10 to 36. In the near future, we expect to produce at least 1,000 tons of yarn with consistent quality from each card. Truetzschler: What blending ratio do you use? And how much waste and raw cotton do you blend? FT Textile: We produce with three blending ratios: The first blend consists of 100 % raw cotton, blend 2 of 80 % cotton and 20 % waste. Blend 3 contains only noils. Truetzschler: How do you assess the yarn quality? What do your customers say? FT Textile: Excellent! We are extremely satisfied with the quality. We have not yet received any major complaints from our customers. Truetzschler: For which end products are the yarns produced with the shortened process (IDF2) used?

March-April 2020

SPINNING FT Textile: Our customers mainly come from the knitwear and woven fabric sector. Truetzschler: In your opinion, what are the ecological advantages of this process? FT Textile: The most important advantages for us are the significant energy savings and the reduced space requirement. Also important for us is the fact that we need less personnel due to the simplified can transport.

process will continue to be important for us.

The Shortened process-a model for a more sustainable future Our practical example illustrates the particular advantages of the shortened process with IDF 2. Thus, the current challenges of saving raw materials and energy are met by us and our customers. In addition to FT Textile, the shortened spinning preparation process Truetzschler: How do you assess the future is already used by other customers to process their own significance of the shortened process? comber waste into high-quality rotor yarns. FT Textile: We are convinced that the shortened

(Mr. Sekar and Mr. Prakash in their cotton field) Excursus ;Cotton and the environment The demand for textiles and thus for cotton products is growing steadily due to population growth and increasing per capita consumption as a result of economic prosperity. Cotton is cultivated worldwide on an area as large as Germany. However, cotton production cannot be increased at will, as agricultural areas are limited. In addition, the plants require warm climatic conditions and an extremely large amount of irrigation. Furthermore, they are treated with pesticides and insecticides and thereby account for ten percent of global pesticide and fertilizer consumption. Cotton is therefore a highly sought-after but also controversial raw material. That is precisely why efficient use is necessary. This circumstance is


countered on the one hand by adding synthetic fibres to cotton, and on the other hand by sustainable methods of utilising the raw material. Since 2019, both the production and the processing of sustainable cotton have been supported by the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation in the countries of Uzbekistan, Cameroon, Burkina Faso and India. Existing platforms and initiatives worldwide are integrated to increase sustainability in the cotton industry. Among other things, training courses for farmers on more sustainable cultivation methods are offered within this framework.

SPINNING With Automation Solutions, Saurer takes next step toward automated factories

Loading unit on rail system for cabling BCF yarns and tire cord

Textile companies are facing increasingly complex challenges: higher labour costs and employee turnover rates, not to mention the need to automate material flow, reduce lead times and boost p r o d u c t i v i t y. F u r t h e r m o r e , c o m p a n i e s increasingly require comprehensive automation solutions due to greater demands on yarn quality and ease of use as well as the trend towards large and heavy packages. Saurer already has 30 years of experience in planning and installation of transport systems, especially between roving frames and ring-spinning machines. The company has successfully implemented over 100 systems worldwide. The new product line Saurer Automation Solutions serves as customers' expert engineering partner for integrated automation solutions across the entire textile value chain. It consists of specially designed automation elements that the project engineering team combines into tailored system solutions that are seamlessly integrated into customers' processes. Thanks to these solutions, Saurer is meeting the growing demand for cost-effective automation of spinning and further processing in staple fibre spinning and twisting mills as well as in filament yarn processing.


Autoflow systems in ring spinning

Comprehensive data management with innovative quality functions has become indispensable along the entire textile value chain. With Senses, the digital mill management system from Saurer, customers can consolidate and analyse company-wide production, quality and performance data, even for machines from other manufacturers. Saurer Automation Solutions offer tailor-made automation solutions in the following areas: Staple fibre spinning and twisting: can transport using automated guided vehicles, transport systems for roving bobbins, palletising systems, conditioning, packaging, transport systems for cross-wound packages from the winding/spinning machine to the yarn warehouse. Filament twisting and cabling: transfer of feed packages with loading units on rail systems for BCF yarns and tire cord for block doffing. Removal of cross-wound twist packages using lifters/rail systems or an automated transport system to the next process step, such as automatic loading of thermosetting systems and weaving creels using robotic units. Project engineering: consulting, project planning and implementation of custom solutions.

March-April 2020

SPINNING Operating Costs: A Vital Factor In Investment Decisions Textile mills need to calculate more than the immediate benefits, says Sivakumar Narayanan, Executive Vice President Uster Technologies

When market demand is relatively low, textile mills have to perform a balancing act, involving many delicate choices. The deployment of capital and management of personnel levels are critical, not only to current profitability but also to long-term business success when an upturn arrives. When the going gets tough, customers become more demanding, especially regarding quality and value for money, making markets ever more competitive for suppliers. At such times, investment decisions might tend to focus on quality improvement as a key criterion. But there is often a temptation to snatch at a narrow range of perceived benefits, for instant gains: technology upgrades, extra features and, of course, capital costs/discounts. Purchasing choices can become bogged down in these details, ignoring the wider view of clearly-defined quality advantages and the vital aspect of ongoing operational costs. Yarn faults: counting the cost A striking example can be found in the case of a potential investment in new yarn clearing equipment. Here, practical calculations show that a typical winding installation with 500 positions can generate operating costs of over USD 3.5 million over a 10-year period. This is a conservative estimate, based on the cost of splices – several millions of them – over this timescale, needed because of unacceptable yarn faults and bobbin changes when quality monitoring is not adequately controlled. It means that the initial capital investment can actually be dwarfed by these running costs: capital expenditure 15

on the yarn clearers would turn out to be only a small fraction of the total lifetime spend. In fact, making prudent choices can result in the mill saving up to a million dollars over this time, depending on yarn type, quality and production conditions. Of course, it’s all too easy in a difficult trading environment, to seize an apparent bargain in terms of initial investment cost, especially where there’s a product upgrade promising a quick fix for a current problem. Not all investors take this short-term view, but those which do will often have some unpleasant surprises when starting to use their equipment. Investments: the bigger picture A profitable investment – as a general principle – should always focus on operational costs and savings opportunities as part of the essential ‘bigger picture’. Evaluation of investments should factor in the differences in operational costs between competing choices, instead of focusing too much on what will likely be quite small differences in the initial capital cost. Decision-makers should evaluate operational costs and capital expenditure as two totally different aspects of a new investment. Proper assessment of operational expenditure requires a closer look. It’s essential to find the real drivers of running costs and take product lifecycle into account, to calculate the savings. This is highly relevant in today’s difficult market environment – but it would be no less important even in better times.

PROCESSING From the Aztecs to Macintosh and beyond... Monforts Head of Technical Textiles Jürgen Hanel outlines the development of the textile coating industry and the fundamental principles behind today's advanced coating processes.

Aztec stone statue detail. © Shutterstock

When a method was developed for coating a fabric with rubber on one side and heating it in a dryer with the addition of sulphur, the Macintosh coat was born.

The textile industry was challenged to develop a material that would repel rain, but at the same time be breathable for the wearer. © Shutterstock

The latest modular Monforts texCoat coating system on display at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona

Schematic of the air knife coating principle.

Schematic of the roller knife coating principle. 16

March-April 2020

PROCESSING Humans are the only primates without fur to protect themselves from the elements and first used animal skins and furs to shield themselves from either the cold or from UV radiation, depending on where they were in the world. Over 5,000 years ago, fabrics woven from plant fibres and wool were then developed, bringing many advantages such as their warmth, softness and breathability, as well as UV-shielding, and the development of dyeing gradually gave rise to the concept of fashion.

development formed the basis for textile coating as we know it today. Air knife coating There are two fundamentally different basic coating processes – air knife coating and roller knife coating. In air knife coating, a squeegee blade brushes over the surface of the textile, pressing the highly viscous coating paste into the spaces between the material. It is impossible to coat low-viscosity chemicals with this method or the paste will drip through the meshes/weave interstices.

There remained, however, a problem – protection against rain for those in wet climates, and later, for Air knife coating, however, is used firstly wherever seafarers. Furs and leather were still widely used for sealing of the fabric is required, for example on this purpose until very recently. umbrellas to prevent spray mist getting through to the inside. Other examples include shower Waterproofing curtains, rainwear, bag and rucksack fabrics, tents etc. th It took until the 19 century for a workable solution to finally be developed by the Scottish textile Air knife coating is also used for mattress tickings and manufacturer and inventor Charles Macintosh, upholstery fabrics. In this case a back coating is although waterproofing garments with rubber was not applied which has a double function – the material is a new idea, having been practiced by the Aztecs in pre- made liquid-tight and in addition it is fixed. In the case Columbian times. of upholstery fabrics, this fixes the pile, but can also be used to achieve technical effects such as flame Later, French scientists made balloons gas-tight and protection. impermeable by impregnating fabric with rubber dissolved in turpentine, but this solvent was not In fashion and decorative articles, air knife coatings satisfactory for making apparel. are also used for one-sided colouring, while textile materials for shoes are coated to make them Macintosh too, first impregnated a thick woollen waterproof. fabric with a solution of natural rubber. The result was waterproof but stank of petroleum and was sticky due Technical textiles to the wool grease. The areas of application with the air knife coating of technical textiles are extremely diverse, ranging from Only when a method was developed for coating the filter fabrics to textile seals and to carbon fibre fabric on one side and heating the rubber in a dryer impregnation. with the addition of sulphur – the process of vulcanization – was the Macintosh coat fabric ready In addition to coating with a thickened paste, there is for commercialisation. also air knife coating with foam. In this case, physical foam is produced in a special foam machine (similar to How the fabric was coated and in which drying oven it whipped cream) and placed in front of the coating was vulcanized is unfortunately not known, but this knife. The foam is pressed into the fabric by the knife 17

PROCESSING tarpaulins, emergency slides, inflatable boats and sealing mats.

and the foam is destroyed.

This so-called unstable foam coating is used, for e x a m p l e , f o r o v e r - d y e i n g j e a n s . I n a Both unstable and stable foams are used in roll knife coloured/colourless version, nonwoven fabrics are coating. If a layer of unstable foam is applied, it decomposes in the first zones of the dryer. also fixed and overdyed in this way. The term “unstable” does not mean this is bad foam. Unstable foams remain stable below room temperature for at least five minutes and do not decompose, but the air bubbles then burst under the knife, or at the latest when the foam is subsequently heated in the dryer. Foam coating with the air knife has many advantages – by diluting the coating chemical with air, less drying power is required, and the penetration depth is lower, while the breathability of the textile is maintained. Roller knife coating In roller knife coating – also called roller nip coating – the application with the knife is practically flying, without touching the upper side of the textile.

The roller knife coating of unstable foams (also referred to as “metastable foams”) is used in the production of jeans to dye over the denim material on one side, for example. By applying the coloured foam on the surface, a good over-dyeing is achieved, which can be washed out easily in industrial laundering to achieve the desired “stonewash” effects. Stable foams survive the drying process in the dryer (under very mild drying conditions) and leave the dryer as a foam layer.

Black-out fabrics A good example of an application for roller knife coating with stable foams is in the production of blackout fabrics for blinds or curtains. These products This has various effects on the final product. The require special treatment in order to retain the softness application in the nip, for example, covers the surface of the fabrics and to ensure that it is still possible to of the textile with the coating compound to give this wind blinds up and down. side of the fabric a plastic-like surface, which is determined by the chemistry used. A special coating called Black-Out has been established to achieve this, involving a three-stage series of stable foam coatings with the roller knife. Well-known examples of roller knife coated fabrics are tarpaulins, life jackets, carpet backing, upholstery fabrics, trunk covers, sealing materials and many The first coating is usually white, followed by a black others. layer and then a white layer again. These three layers Roller knife coating places very high demands on the are dried and are with a crush calendar after each layer precision of the machine, in contrast to air knife is applied. A fourth dryer passage then cure all three coating. Nevertheless, combinations of these two layers together with the possible addition of a last topcoat to improve the grip. coating types are mainly offered today. For this purpose, the coating knife bar is designed to be This process is complex and expensive, and mistakes horizontally adjustable and the precision achieved can result in the entire production run being rejected, so experienced and trained personnel are required. depends on the supplier of the coating machine. The roller knife can be used in the same way as the air A similar process is used in the production of knife with paste, for example in the coating of PVC advertising banners, which is called 'block-out'. This is 18

March-April 2020

PROCESSING a multi-layer foam coating to prevent the image/text of In wet lamination, the adhesive is initially applied to the banner from showing through on the back side of the first layer and the second layer is then placed in the wet application before the two materials are dried and the material. fixed together. Rubber coating Let's return here to the Macintosh and coating with T h e d i s a d v a n t a g e o f t h i s p r o c e s s i s t h e rubber, as a rather amazing application for roller knife hardness/rigidity of the laminated end product. In dry lamination, the adhesive is applied to the first coating. material and dried and the second layer is then applied The applied rubber layer is so waterproof and airproof to it via high pressures, usually by a calender. that such materials can also be used for lightweight boats, life rafts, life jackets and emergency slides in aircraft. However, such basic waterproof fabrics have a problem in apparel, in not allowing the moisture generated by the wearer to escape.

A special case is that of stable foam lamination.

In this process, a layer of foam is applied by a roller doctor blade and carefully dried. The second layer is then placed into the dry foam by a crush calender. Afterwards, however, this laminate must still be thermally fixed. Foam lamination has the softest touch Consequently, the textile industry was challenged to develop a material that would repel rain, but at the and in the case of polyurethane foam the laminate is also thermally resistant, as the adhesive is not same time be breathable for the wearer. thermoplastic after fixing. Probably the first product to meet this challenge was (and still is) marketed as Gore-TexÂŽ for outdoor clothing. Gore-TexÂŽ, however, is not a coated fabric, but a waterproof, breathable membrane that has been laminated. The availability of water vapor permeable polyurethane dispersions also allowed direct coating on the inside of the fabric. This is where roller knife coatings are applied. Depending on the required stress, stable foam coatings and also paste coatings are used.

Lamination Lamination is generally understood to be the joining together of two or more layers of textile, film, membrane or fleece and to keep the layers together an adhesive is needed, which can be applied by either coating or screen printing. A distinction can be made here between dry or wet lamination.


Conclusion In this article I have tried to provide an overview of the technology of textile coating and would like to conclude by listing just some of the coated materials that are to be encountered in daily routines. We can start with the mattress cover, slippers, the shower curtain and the bathmat and move through to the dining table with its coated tablecloth, then out to the hallway for a rain jacket and umbrella. In the car, countless more coated fabrics are to be found, from the seat cover to the trunk, and just as many coated materials will be encountered by commuters using trains or buses. Textile coating is still a technology of the future with which money can still be made. With the increase of lightweight construction, just as one example, fibre reinforced materials are becoming increasingly important. Here, textiles or fibre scrims are only used to reinforce the plastic matrix, but the technology of production is similar and therefore represents another growth area for textile coating.

NONWOVENS ANDRITZ to supply a turnkey spunlace line to BCNonwovens, Spain

ANDRITZ neXline spunlace eXcelle line

International technology Group ANDRITZ has received an order from BCNonwovens, Spain, to supply a neXline spunlace line as a turnkey project to meet growing needs from customers globally. The line is scheduled for start-up early in 2021. This new state-of-the-art line will help BCNonwovens to better serve its customers and position the company for current and changing requirements in the marketplace.

portfolio and process a broad range of raw materials, including sustainable fibers. This line will also be equipped with ANDRITZ’s selfdeveloped Metris UX platform, enabling predictive maintenance based on ANDRITZ’s new Vibe sensors and the risk-based maintenance app. It will improve the line’s efficiency by reducing downtime and thus help BCNonwovens to achieve its strategic objectives in terms of quality and sustainability. “With its wide range of applications, Metris will assist us in our operating activities, and we can already envisage a wide range of new possible developments with this extremely powerful ANDRITZ tool,” says Rafael Dufour, Strategy and Business Development Director of BCNonwovens.

“The choice of spunlace line supplier was based on a thorough evaluation of the technologies available on the market. The combination of ANDRITZ process engineers’ expertise and our in-depth market knowledge has enabled us to define the appropriate line configuration for current and future market needs. The fully equipped ANDRITZ spunlace pilot line and expertise have played a key role in the order being awarded to ANDRITZ,” says Marko Rajamaa, General Manager of BCNonwovens.

Over the past few years, the ANDRITZ service team has supported BCNonwovens’ continuous improvement initiatives to push performance to new levels.

The line features the best-in-class technologies available on the market and will be installed in a dedicated new building, meeting the highest hygiene and environmental standards. Due to its versatility, it will enable BCNonwovens to widen their product

Miguel Vinas Pich, CEO of BCNonwovens, says “ANDRITZ has been a major partner for almost two decades. This new line will be an essential investment to help our customers achieve growth and serve demanding markets.”


March-April 2020

PROCESSING H&C Whitehead, UK: highest quality end products with BRÜCKNER technology

Thomas Wiederer, Brückner (left) and David Whitehead, H&C Whitehead (right) Family owned textile finisher H&C Whitehead Ltd. was founded in 1925 by Harold and Carl Whitehead. The company is a recognized world class textile finisher with more than ninety years of experience in coating and finishing an extensive and varied range of textiles. Within recent months they have successfully commissioned several BRÜCKNER machines. As part of an ongoing capital upgrade strategy, a new state of the art BRÜCKNER finishing stenter with an ECO-HEAT air/air heat recovery unit has recently been installed in their factory in Brighouse, UK. This complements two other Bruckner stenter lines, both of which have heat recovery systems installed. Essential requirements were the highest performance heat setting consistency across and throughout the oven for delicate woven fabrics and minimal energy consumption in support of Whitehead's sustainability initiatives. The stenter frame is mainly designed to process fabrics for the apparel industry with antipilling, stain resistant or anti-microbial finishes, but also flame-retardant chemistry is applied onto upholstery fabrics to meet fire safety regulations. The BRÜCKNER ECO-HEAT back pack heat-recovery unit is integrated into the stenter structure, which does not require a separate support structure, but provides for safe access to the unit. It significantly reduces the stenter heating energy requirement up to 20 %. The unit is equipped with several cassette type heat exchangers, which can be removed easily for cleaning 21

or maintenance purposes. One of the other existing BRÜCKNER lines has been retrofitted with a BRÜCKNER ECO-HEAT air/water heat recovery plant on the exhaust system. It is used to heat up process water for their new open width washing range and can, depending on the heat requirement of the process, regain up to 85 % of the stenter exhaust air heat. Mr. David Whitehead, Owner and CEO, has successfully led the company for many years and has invested a great deal of effort in preparing the company for the future. Next to the investment into the new BRÜCKNER machines and the new washing range he has had a new production building built to house these new lines. Mr. Whitehead states: “BRÜCKNER have been instrumental in the transformation in the quality of our end product over the last ten years. The reliability of their machinery has also proven essential to the “just in time” nature of our business. I cannot fault the company and their flexibility in finding solutions to our specific requirements, especially floor space limitations. I hope that BRÜCKNER continue to go from strength to strength and that the textile industry will continue to benefit from their programme of research and development and continual improvement into energy reduction systems and many other areas that will help the environment and improve the quality and consistency of the finished fabric.”

3 D PRINTING Mimaki Expands Portfolio with Large-Scale3D Printer - Offering Total 2D and 3D Printing Solution for Sign Market Ÿ

New Mimaki 3DGD-1800 3D printer boasts ground-breaking production speeds and transforms production of large-sized objects, opening up a wide range of new possible applications across industries from sign and display to manufacturing.

Capable of producing objects up to 1.8 metres high in just seven hours, the New Mimaki 3DGD-1800 3D printer will be commercially available from April 1, 2020. Mimaki Europe, a leading manufacturer of inkjet printers and cutting systems, today announces the launch of the new Mimaki 3DGD-1800 3D printer, facilitating large-scale production up to three times faster than with conventional Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) type 3D printers. The Mimaki 3DGD-1800 3D printer connects the company’s 2D printing expertise and 3D technology innovations, providing customers with a cost-effective, total solution for 3D sign and display applications. Capable of producing objects up to 1.8 metres tall in just seven hours – with its assembly-based design allowing for the creation of even larger designs – the innovative 3D printing system boasts a number of clever time- and cost- saving features, including dual-head configuration to enable the simultaneous output of two structures. The Mimaki 3DGD1800 also facilitates the production of support-free hollowed structures, further streamlining production whilst allowing for increased portability and the possible addition of interior illuminations. The technology will open up a diverse range of potential applications, from signage, events and creative art through to interior design. Customers can utilise Mimaki’s extensive portfolio of 2D print solutions to cost-effectively decorate these applications, opening doors to a range of new products that combine creativity and innovation with Mimaki’s tried and tested vibrant, high-quality results. “Part of what makes our approach unique here at Mimaki is our dedication to being a Total Solutions Provider, and as such we have ensured that even beyond the 3D printing stage, our Mimaki inkjet printers can then be utilised to add colour and décor, making created objects even more impressive and immensely versatile,” comments Bert Benckhuysen, Senior Product Manager at Mimaki Europe. “With our unique vision, wealth of experience from across the print industry and unwavering commitment to innovation, we intend to lead the sign graphics industry in both two- and three-dimensional signages – and the introduction of the new Mimaki 3DGD1800 is a fantastic step forward in achieving this goal.”

For more information about products and services from Mimaki, visit


March-April 2020

Commercially available from April 1, 2020, the new Mimaki 3DGD-1800 is set to revolutionise the way in which largesized objects are created, enabling a switch from costly and time-consuming conventional handcrafting methods which require significant expertise, to effortless, high-speed production utilising 3D data. Whereas large objects have traditionally been produced by manually sculpting foam materials, Mimaki’s new 3D printing system transforms this process right through from concept to manufacture – meaning that designs can be visualised as a finished product just based on the 3D data, and then produced in various sizes from a single data set. Contrary to other 3D printing methods involving hot-melt lamination, the 3DGD-1800 employs Gel Dispensing Printing technology, extruding gel-type UV curable resin lineally and utilising LED UV light to instantly cure the resin, enabling lamination speeds of up to 350mm in height per hour. The 3DGD-1800 3D printer is expected to present sign makers with new opportunities across a number of diverse sectors, with the potential to easily create life-sized displays, event decorations, movie props, large product mock-ups and more – as well as quickly and efficiently producing industrial production parts such as moulds for vacuum forming, helping manufacturers to reduce their lead times. “We are very excited to be able to bring such a transformative product to market,” continues Benckhuysen. “With unprecedented modelling speeds and the possibility to create enormous objects even beyond the sizeable formation area, the 3DGD-1800 represents a real transformation in largesized production. Combined with the superior quality that we have become known for here at Mimaki, the potential impact of this new 3D printer is tremendous – particularly for the sign and display market but also far beyond that. The opportunities are boundless.”

TECHNICAL TEXTILES Efficient BCF yarn tangling

RoTac³ tangling unit with comprehensive modifications

Even more efficient and economical – the modified RoTac³ is part of the BCF S8's standard scope of delivery Major technological changes to Oerlikon Neumag’s RoTac³ tangling unit produce even more efficient BCF yarn tangling. On the one hand, the tangling nozzle has been flow-optimized, allowing the air pressure to be lowered by approximately 10 percent compared to its predecessor, while maintaining the same knot strength. Furthermore, the nozzle bearing arrangements have been improved. Consequently, either higher speeds or nozzle rings with greater numbers of holes can be used, generating more knots in the yarn. Even at high production speeds, tangling knots can be set considerably more evenly with the RoTac³ than in the case of other conventional tangling units. Frequent tangling dropouts are now a thing of the past. This ensures better yarn quality and has a positive impact on further processing. The result: the carpet has a visibly more even appearance. 23

Stable and efficient yarn production is hugely important to yarn manufacturers. Not only does the evenness of the tangling knots make the investment interesting, so too does the energy efficiency of the RoTac3. The tangling unit requires up to 50 percent less energy for generating compressed air. Against the background of rising energy prices, this represents an excellent prerequisite for optimizing production costs. Oerlikon Neumag has been able to secure various retrofit contracts since the launch of the RoTac3 in 2015. And new systems are predominantly equipped with RoTac³. The RoTac³ is included in the standard scope of delivery for the newer BCF S8 system. The tangling unit is available as an option both for the single-end Sytec One system and the three-end S+ and it can also be retrofitted on request.

TECHNICAL TEXTILES Recycling polyester

perPETual and Polygenta manufacture rPET FDY using Oerlikon Barmag's WINGS

Applicable also for the processing of rPET yarns: Oerlikon Barmag spinning concepts with WINGS FDY. The Indian yarn manufacturer Polygenta, specialized on the manufacturing of sustainable recycling yarns, recently commenced production of recycled polyester FDY yarns at its facilities in Nashik. The yarn is produced using a combination of perPETual Global Technologies patented chemical recycling technology and Oerlikon Barmag’s direct spinning system equipped with the 32-end WINGS concept.

produced caters to the requirements of premiumsegment clients demanding high quality, cost effective sustainable solutions.

The spinning plant was commissioned by Oerlikon Textile India technologists in close collaboration with the process experts at Oerlikon Barmag, with various FDY products currently being developed. The yarn

As one of the world’s first companies, Polygenta has, since 2014, been producing 100% recycled POY and DTY from post-consumer PET using the patented chemical recycling process developed by per- PETual Global Technologies. perPETual’s process reduces CO2 impact by more than 66% compared to virgin PET. The yarn is spun using Oerlikon Barmag systems and equipment. As a result, Polygenta is able to produce a wide range of DTY and FDY yarns that comply with the Global Recycled Standard (GRS).


March-April 2020


Salad days for the UK's Anglo Recycling Anglo Recycling Technology is on course to deliver no less than a million of its special nonwoven mats for hydroponically growing herbs to a major customer in the Middle East this year.

A modern hydroponic herb growing facility.

Micro greens thrive on Growfelt nonwoven media.

The Growfelt-branded products arose from the discovery back in the late 1990s by Anglo Recycling's owner Simon Macaulay, that the Sussex-based retail supplier of salads, Van Heineken Brothers (now Vitacress), used nonwoven felts on which to grow its cress.

Middle East and the Far East, whether for retail presentation and appearance or for water holding. “As we continue to expand our customer base, we are constantly being set new challenges,” says the company's managing director Andy Hall. “A customer in the Philippines, for example, wanted a mat 10mm thick, since the ambient temperature in that region demands increased water availability for growing herbs. Our customer in the Middle East is meanwhile seeing the demand for fresh salads increasing significantly and is expanding so rapidly orders have grown from 360,000 pads for all of 2017 to this latest order at the start of 2020 for a million.”

“I drove down to see the company's production manager, Chris Moncrieff, and discovered they were indeed growing cress on felts, but they were made from virgin materials and he liked the idea of maybe using a blend of virgin fibre offcuts of cotton, wool and polypropylene,” he explains. “That's how Growfelt was born. For the first six years we supplied exclusively to Vitacress and in return they helped us to bring our factory up to food grade standard and to set in “We're also undertaking trials to find a fully place a testing regime for Salmonella E-Coli coliforms biodegradable product that meets micro and growth challenges but also allows customers to reduce their and listeria.” landfill costs,” adds Simon Macaulay. “It's not proving In recent years, however, Anglo Recycling, which is easy, but we're sure we'll solve it. There's already a based in Whitworth, near Rochdale in the UK, has pretty convincing sustainable argument, with our significantly broadened its customer base. It now Growfelt pads allowing herbs for salads to be grown offers a core of three growing media products to meet and sourced locally, rather than being flown in from the differing needs of customers across Europe, the the other side of the world.”



Long-term project business in China remains stable Oerlikon wins three large manmade fibers orders in China with a total value of over CHF 600 million Oerlikon has received new large orders for manmade fibers production solutions from three of the world’s leading manmade fibers manufacturers. All three companies are based in China and have been key customers of Oerlikon for many years. The orders are for Oerlikon Barmag’s world leading filament-spinning technology for the highly efficient production of polyester fibers. The three projects have a total value of more than CHF 600 million (EUR 565 million). A very small proportion of these projects will be recognized in Oerlikon Group’s order intake in 2020, and the majority will be accounted for in 2021 and 2022. On-site delivery and installation of these systems is planned for the period from 2021 to early 2023. The systems business in China remains largely unchanged despite the short-term interruption caused by the coronavirus epidemic following the Chinese New Year celebrations. Long-term project planning for major customers in the manmade fibers industry has resulted in new major orders being placed with Oerlikon Barmag. One of the three new orders, valued at more than CHF 300 million (EUR 282 million), is the largest order ever received by Oerlikon Barmag, based in Remscheid, Germany.

solutions by Oerlikon are used along the entire value chain in polyester yarn manufacturing and contain cutting-edge automation and digitalization technologies. Oerlikon’s innovative technologies will enable the three Chinese companies to increase their production capacities for polyester yarn and to remain competitive. Oerlikon Barmag will provide the entire system for WINGS POY and WINGS FDY, as well as the texturing machines from the eFK product family in phases over a period of slightly over two years. “These three orders show that the Chinese textile industry continues to place its trust in the world market – and in Oerlikon. They make it clear that globally interconnected industries such as the textiles industry and business models like that employed by the Manmade Fibers Segment are more robust than many people believe,” said Dr. Roland Fischer, CEO Oerlikon Group. Georg Stausberg, CEO of Oerlikon’s Manmade Fibers Segment, added: “That these customers repeatedly select Oerlikon is primarily linked to our innovative technologies, but also due to the fact that we have been handling these extensive projects flexibly and reliably for decades and also mastering challenges that, like today, arise from global epidemics causing temporarily interruptions for production sites and logistics."

The comprehensive manmade fibers technology


March-April 2020

TECHNICAL TEXTILES Monforts ATC adventures in aquaculture Monforts has recently been involved in a number of R&D trials aimed at improving the performance of the fishing cage nets employed in fish farming operations at its Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

A modern seawater fish farm off the coast of Slovenia.

Over €3 million has been invested in industrial-scale equipment at the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

Monforts Head of Technical Textiles Jürgen Hanel (left) with ATC manager Fred Vohsdal, who has now worked for the company for 51 years and has a wealth of accumulated know-how to share with customers.



The cultivation of both freshwater and saltwater fish populations under controlled conditions is a global industry valued at around $200 billion annually and only made possible with the use of huge aquaculture nets. Biofouling “These nets are very prone to biofouling and to avoid its negative impacts, high-pressure robotic jets are now used to clean them,” explains Monforts Head of Technical Textiles Jürgen Hanel. “Net cleaning is expensive and can also damage current antifouling coatings on the nets, causing contamination as well as fish health and welfare risks. “The abrasion resistance of the nets is also extremely important, because in addition to the general wear and tear of the underwater environment, they also contain a lot of potential food for predatory bigger fish, such as sharks. Even sea lions have been known to be attracted to these fish farming cages, but have the advantage of being able to jump over the top of them if they're not sufficiently protected.”

can test their own textiles and technical fabrics on Monforts dyeing, finishing and coating machines under fully confidential, real production conditions,” says Jürgen Hanel. “The range of textiles finished or coated with Monforts technologies is already extremely diverse, including standard knits and wovens, as well as advanced denim. When it comes to technical textiles, our lines are already being used commercially for treating substrates for digitally-printed soft signage, carbon fabrics for composites, filter media which must perform in extreme temperatures and flame retardant barrier fabrics, to name just four applications, but the list gets longer all the time.” Expansions Since its opening in 2013, over €3 million has been invested in equipment at the Monforts ATC, which over an area of 1,200 square metres houses two full finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim. Recent expansions have included the installation of the latest Monforts texCoat coating system, with its multihead capability, and the CYD yarn dyeing system for denim, both of which received an enthusiastic reception at last year's ITMA show in Barcelona.

The development of more effective antifouling coatings for fishing cage nets has been one aspect of R&D work at the Monforts ATC, while the use of how alternative fibres could potentially be coated or finished to replace the polyamide which is currently “We have subsequently demonstrated the potential of most widely used has also been explored. these new technologies to many customers during their The issue of plastics and synthetic fibres in the oceans visits to the ATC, in addition to running full trial has generated global media attention recently, and the programmes on our industrial-scale machines,” Jürgen aquaculture industry is exploring all avenues that will Hanel concludes. “The intended end-uses may not lead to more sustainable practices. always be as unusual as fishing cage nets, but whatever the application, trials in real production conditions Diverse applications yield the results that enable us to make many “We are asked to investigate a wide range of fabric recommendations for improving fabric finishes and finishes and coatings at the ATC, where our customers coatings.”


March-April 2020

CARPET TECHNOLOGY A close eye on quality with the Eye Compact II Eltex of Sweden AB, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, reports solid success with its Eye Compact II yarn monitoring system for carpet tufting machines, since its launch at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona last June.

The Eltex Eye Compact II yarn monitoring system for carpet tufting. “We have a very healthy order book for this new monitoring system because it meets a real need for the carpet tufting industry,” says Brian Hicks, Eltex CEO. “We have already installed a number in the USA and are currently fulfilling orders for companies in Australia, Canada, Thailand and the UK.”

about prevention at an earlier stage, through the detection of missing yarns.

“There are a number of reasons why yarns can go missing, the most obvious being a bobbin simply running empty,” says Eltex Sales and Marketer Peter Wiberg. “They can also be broken as they're fed The sensor units of the Eye Compact II, he explains, through the creels or pulled out of position, so they are have been successfully miniaturised to approximately not successfully picked up by the needles.” a third of the size of those with the established Compact system, allowing them to be mounted on the Critically, the sensors need to be installed after the last very latest high speed tufting machines that are puller roller and before the tufting needles, because graphics driven, with limited space at the puller rollers. otherwise the roller could still be feeding yarns that will not been successfully taken by the needles. This is only possible with the extremely slim Eye Compact II Early stage prevention Unlike the sensor systems that are employed at later units, which can also be positioned either above or positions on tufting machines – in order to detect faults below the rollers. in the formed fabric – Eye Compact II technology is 29


Guarantee “Missing yarns can often go undetected by the operator, with anywhere up to eighteen hundred being fed at high speed into the tufting machine at one time,” says Wiberg. “Our system provides a 100 per cent guarantee that all of the yarns that should be in the tufted construction are being correctly fed into the primary backing. This both mitigates against expensive repairs at a later stage and also allows single operators to control multiple machines simultaneously.” Another benefit is that the sensors can be arranged more closely together, with each of them monitoring 16 yarn positions, and their robustness ensures that once fitted, there is little the technicians or operators need to do. Automatic The Eye Compact II system easily learns pattern changes and displays the number of yarns involved to the operator for confirmation, and different parameters for different yarns groups can also even be set if required. “This new sensor technology operates at a critical stage in high-end carpet production, where everything comes together in the entire manufacturing process,” Brian Hicks concludes. “The yarns and the carpet backing have already been produced and both are wasted if a fault is only identified later during the


tufting stage, when it is also necessary to stop the machine. By eliminating both production waste and machine downtime, manufacturers can significantly boost both their profitability and sustainable footprint. “All of these benefits along with the ability of a single operator to control multiple machines, mean that the new Eye Compact II provides a very quick return on investment.” With its research and development work primarily carried out at its headquarters in Osby, Sweden, and North American sales and service operated from its subsidiary in South Carolina, the manufacturing plant of Eltex has been located at Templemore in Ireland since 1976, providing significant advantages in terms of high flexibility and logistical services to customers on both sides of the Atlantic. “The Eltex Eye Compact II perfectly illustrates how Sweden's long tradition and history of textile production are being combined with a good climate for innovation,” says TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. “The solid contribution to overall sustainable textile manufacturing that are being made by such incremental technology improvements around the world are often not fully recognised, but they are certainly appreciated by satisfied customers.”

March-April 2020

TECHNOLOGY ITM and HIGHTEX 2020 Exhibitions Will Be Held Between 14-18 July 2020 ITM 2020 International Textile Machinery Exhibition and HIGHTEX 2020 International Technical Textile & Nonwoven Trade Fair, organized with the partnership of Tüyap Tüm Fuarcılık Yapım A.Ş and Teknik Fuarcılık A.Ş to be held in Istanbul Tüyap Convention and Congress Center this year between June 2-6, have been postponed to 14-18 July 2020, as a result of decisions taken by World Health Organization (WHO) and Turkey – Ministry of Health.

Recently, ITM and HIGHTEX Project Group made teleconference with both of the exhibition participants; the countries where such intense participation to both of exhibitions from Italy, Germany, Switzerland, China and Turkey. As a result of these discussions, organizational commitee was decided to postpone that exhibitions in line with requests from ITM and HIGHTEX 2020 participants The ITM and HIGHTEX Project Groups, see their


primary responsibility as to protect the health, rights and investments of esteemed participants, visitors and collaborators. Therefore, within the scope of decisions taken by World Health Organization (WHO) and Turkey – Ministry of Health, ITM and HIGHTEX exhibitions have been postponed from 2-6 June 2020 to 14-18 July 2020.


Kornit Digital Introduces NeoPigment™ Robusto Softener Solution for Fashion on Demand Solution allows Kornit Presto users to manufacture on demand for top retail and fashion brands, with no compromise on handfeel

Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced the release of its new NeoPigment™ Robusto Softener solution for Presto, the company's system for digital, pigment-based direct-to-fabric decoration. Reflecting Kornit's commitment to expanding sustainable, ondemand (i.e. waste-free) decoration capabilities to all corners of the textile industry, this solution eliminates a key barrier between digital, pigment-based impressions and the fashion industry—namely, a softer handfeel. The new Softener solution is a product of the brand's continuous innovation strategy, making Kornit technology the fashion world's solution for on-demand proximity production. By streamlining the end-to-end process, these systems eliminate the need to predict demand and manage inventory, while supporting


global sustainability imperatives. Offering vibrant colors, intricate design capabilities, and a fabric touch that is second to none, Kornit's pigment-based digital print solutions require minimal space and labor relative to competitive offerings. “The new Softener addresses the final sticking point we've encountered for high fashion and other markets considering a move to digital printing—and that's the touch, the physical feel of the finished piece,” says Ronen Samuel, Kornit CEO. “Being able to produce precisely and only what is sold, and doing so in a manner that reflects the premium modern consumers place on community and social responsibility, is the key to stability and growth in these uncertain times.” Kornit digital textile print systems are GOTS and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certified.

March-April 2020