Cellar Door Wi ne a n d p o ss i b i l i t i e s b y Ba n v i lle & J o n e s W i n e Co.
Great Wine Cities
Issue 19 October 2014 â€“ January 2015
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contents Features 25 47
25 A Taste of the Unexpected: Great Wine Cities The Banville & Jones Sommeliers explore the best wine cities you never thought of.
47 European Vacation for the Oenophile Manitoba’s top Sommeliers take you on a tour of their favourite European wine cities.
53 The Long Game: An Interview with Will Predhomme 53
Mike Muirhead talks wine with one of Canada’s busiest Sommeliers.
Cover: Degraves Street is a popular Melbourne laneway known for its cafés, odd shops, and street life. Photo by Melbourne Snaps, http://melsnaps.blogspot.ca
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contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones 14 Ask a Sommelier 38 14
18 Banville & Jones and Company 20 Behind the Label Terlan
34 Garyâ€™s Corner Great Wine Cities of CE 79: Pompeii
36 Trending Go East: Hong Kongâ€™s Thriving Wine Market
38 Chef Profile Kristen Chemerika-Lew and Kyle Lew of Chew
42 Gluggy Cape Town Delights
44 Banville & Jones Wine & Food Events 42
56 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 59 Sidebar The World Through a Wine Glass
60 Culinary Partners 61 Shopping List 62 Top Picks
Cellar Door Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead email@example.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Andrea Eby, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead
Graphic Design Ryan Germain | firstname.lastname@example.org Advertising Sales Director Vanessa Shapiro email@example.com Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Jennifer Battcock, Pauline Boldt, Andrea Eby, Gary Hewitt, Paul Martens, Jennifer Hiebert, Sylvia Jansen, Dylan Keats, Jill Kwiatkoski, Ian McCausland, Jay Mitchosky, Tracy McCourt, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Christopher Sprague, Rob Stansel Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com
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Banville & Jones Wine Co. is a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. Opened by sisters Tina Jones and Lia Banville in 1999, it is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Maryâ€™s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 www.banvilleandjones.com
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a message from tina jones Tina’s Top Wine Cities Rome I love its great restaurants that are off the beaten track, tucked neatly among sites that make this city a never-ending history lesson!
Paris An incredibly cosmopolitan city that consistently transforms food and wine to an art form.
Cape town A place that seems worlds away, but that charms us into returning to its vibrant rhythm.
Mendoza Old World Spain in the heart of the Andes—1884 Restaurante is tops!
You probably know by now that I love to travel. I love the challenge of searching out the most interesting food and wine in a new city. Sometimes a great experience comes from discovering that a famous destination restaurant deserves its reputation. Sometimes the great experience is a local gem that a hotel staffer recommends. And every now and then I have even found a great new place just by strolling a new neighbourhood in a favourite city! When we considered an issue about great wine cities, we wanted to point you in the direction of these great experiences. A great wine city brings people together with great food and wine in a way that seems effortless and fun. Some of these cities are places where we expect this to happen—like Lyon, France—and some of these are places that surprise us by taking us far beyond our expectations—like Hong Kong or Vienna, Mendoza or Porto. A great wine restaurant—and by extension its city—also has the power to show us the magic in a style of wine we have overlooked. A great wine city sends us home with the desire to look for that fantastic style of wine in our favourite local wine shop. In other words, a great wine city raises the bar for us all! In this issue of The Cellar Door, we happily share some of our great wine experiences in our most loved cities. These are cities in love with wine, and these are cities that make us fall in love with wine. Please travel with us, and enjoy the love affair with great food and wine!
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ask a sommelier We got a bottle of Champagne for our wedding and were told to “Save it for our 10th anniversary.” Will it still be good? —Caroline Piorkowski Dear Caroline, The answer is that it depends—but leaning toward yes! Great (Vintage) Champagne can develop in the bottle for a long time. Generally, though, non-vintage Champagnes are ready to be enjoyed on release, and cellaring is not a great idea. Wines, including Champagnes, that are too old may smell and taste of old fruit—a bit unpleasant. However, good Vintage Champagnes (which I hope includes your gift) can easily develop for many years, if cellared carefully in a cool, dark place. If you received a 2004 or 2005 from a good Champagne house, that would mean it would be close to 20 years old when you open it. At that age, a fine Champagne would have an amazing aroma of honey, toast, dried fruits, dates, and mushrooms. The mousse (fizz) would be fine, lighter, and dissipate quickly—but the reward is a rare wine that almost defies description. If you are unsure if you should cellar your wine or drink it now, email a picture of the label to Banville & Jones (email@example.com), or show one of our wine experts on your next visit to the store, and we can advise you about your wine in particular. —Sylvia Jansen How important is considering the vintage when I am buying wine that I am going to store, versus wine that I am going to drink fairly quickly? —Leifr Hall
most (more often, a carefully selected group of) wines are exceptional, that the vintage should be declared “good” or “great.” You’ve heard these sermons. You’ve been sold wine this way before: “…besides, it’s a 2005, which was a great vintage in Bordeaux.” But, should you choose to convert, there’s something else you should know: the vintage evangelists are a sectarian lot. Some, whom we’ll call “Parker’s pupils,” have established a kind of orthodoxy: gobs of heavily extracted fruit = age-worthy. Others, whom we’ll call the “mystics,” will tell you that the wines from that 75-point vintage are “just sleeping.” Great producers know their vines. They know how to adapt to a cool spring or a hail-drenched autumn. In that respect, vintage is extremely important. But believing in the vintage requires more than just a well-thumbed Wine Buyer’s Guide. It requires a leap of faith: there is no way to know what that wine will taste like in 20 years. In other words, there are no great vintages, just great bottles.
If you want something a little more special, you don’t have to go much higher in price. We have a wonderful Pinot Grigio from the producer La Vis called Dipinti Pinot Grigio (Italy, $16.99) that is one of our most popular wines in the store. Going a bit up from there we have Danzante Pinot Grigio (Italy, $19.99) and Terlan Pinot Grigio (Italy, $23.99), which is probably my favourite. These last three are all from Northern Italy, which is “the” place to grow the perfect Pinot Grigio. —Jill Kwiatkoski
—Rob Stansel I would like to buy two really good bottles of Pinot Grigio for my mother-inlaw for her birthday. What would you recommend? —Jennifer Wilgosh
Dear Leifr, One school of Sommeliers says that great harvests produce great wines. We’ll call these somms the “vintage evangelists.” They tend to believe that when, in a given region, in a given year, the structural components of
We have a lot of Pinot Grigios in the under-$14 range, including Botter Oggi Pinot Grigio (Italy, $11.99), Quadri Pinot Grigio (Italy, $12.99), and Redwood Creek Pinot Grigio, (USA, $13.99).
Dear Jennifer, Great question! Pinot Grigio can be quite elegant, and ones that are well made are just lovely. The great thing about Pinot Grigio is that there are exceptional choices in all price points.
If you have a question for our Sommeliers, email us at firstname.lastname@example.org, or find us on Facebook and Twitter @BanvilleJones
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banville & jones and company
Friends of Banville & Jones: 1. Jill Kwiatkoski, Aldo Steccanella of Provenza winery, Italy, Andrea Eby; 2. Derek and Mary Johannson and friends; 3. Barb and Barry Bembridge and friends; 4. Michael and Lise Graham, Shirley Martens, Jill Kwiatkoski, Lisa Muirhead, and Paul Martens at The Cellar Door annual advertisers’ wine event; 5. Michelle Prendiville, Lauren Kressock, Julia Jones, Zoe Goldman, Emily Palmer, and Emily Fridrik; 6. Susan Fraser, Christa Mariash, and Dani Finch at The Cellar Door annual advertisers’ wine event; 7. Tina Jones, Allison Snell, and Terry Snell at The Cellar Door annual advertisers’ wine event; 8. Natalia and John van Houdt, Michelle McFarlane, Dr Bruce McFarlane at The Cellar Door annual advertisers’ wine event.
15 14 9. Silvio Di Silvio of Donnafugata winery, Italy; 10. Gwen Muirhead, Sarah Cory, Germaine Black, and Danny Gonen; 11. Alanna Pierce, Suzy Afifi, Ken Kasper, Katie Dubienski; 12. Doug Mortier, Andre Mahe, Betty Parry, and Carol Mahe; 13. Tina Jones and Jason Earnest of Cane Estate, California; 14. Laura Hansch, Donna Thordarson, and Norbert Hansch; 15. Lindsay Wachal, Karl Jones, Ken Morrisette, Caroline Mehra; 16. George and Irene Graham; 17. Shirley Martens, Thomas Webb of Thelema winery, South Africa; Paul Martens.
behind the label: terlan By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier (ISG)
Terlaner Classico 2012 Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc $23.99
Lunare 2011 Gewürztraminer $55.99
Winkl 2011 Sauvignon Blanc $29.99
Pinot Grigio 2012 $23.99
Picture this: it is 1893 and agriculture (not winemaking) is the backbone of the economy in Terlan, Northern Italy. Were it not for the vision of 24 forward-thinking vine growers, we may not have ever had the pleasure of drinking the stunning wines of this unique village. Knowing there is strength in numbers, these 24 growers came together to form the cooperative winery we now know as Terlan. By sharing their resources and ideas, the original 24 knew they could create long-living artisan wines and distribute them to the world. Today, the Terlan cooperative boasts a membership of over 140 growers who are paid based on the quality of their grapes, not on the quantity. With strong influences from surrounding countries such as Germany and Austria, it is not surprising that 70 per cent of the wines made here are white varieties. The mountainous region allows for vineyards to be planted at elevations ranging from 250 to 900 metres above sea level, and provide Terlan’s vineyards with south-facing exposure. This range of elevations means they can produce both warm- and coolclimate varieties. Grapes destined for bigger reds grow lower down the mountain, whereas grapes used for lighter reds and whites grow at higher, cooler elevations. Terlan produces wines in four quality levels. The first is the Classic series. These are lovely everyday drinking wines mostly comprised of a single variety. Banville & Jones Wine Co. carries several wines in this series, including Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Gewürztraminer.
Pinot Bianco 2012 $21.99
Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva 2010 Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc $56.99
Quarz 2011 Sauvignon Blanc $59.99
The next step up is the Vineyard series. Each of these wines is produced from a single vineyard and labelled with the vineyard’s name, including Terlaner, Winkl, Montigl, Vorberg, and Gries. These wines tend to offer slightly more complexity and length when compared to the wines of the Classic series. The Selections series of white wines can win over the most stubborn red wine drinker. Wines in this series are produced from what the winery believes to be the best sites for each of the varieties used. Every wine lover should treat themselves to one of these wines at least once. You can choose from Quarz, Nova Domus, and Lunare. The top level produced is called Rarity—and it truly is one. There is only one wine in the rarity series and it changes each year. The rarity is a white wine that is left to age on its lees for a minimum of 10 years before release. It is a truly special offering that showcases the longevity of the wines being produced at Terlan. This winery produces an extensive selection of wines that never fails to surprise and delight wine lovers. The quality and complexity of each one consistently over-delivers. Mike Muirhead, the general manager of Banville & Jones, often refers to the wines of Terlan as his “desert island” wines: if he could only take one wine to the island with him, it would be one of these. It is difficult to disagree.
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Gone Global: GenUwine Cellars Built in 1909, John Jacob Astor opened the Knickerbocker Hotel at 6 Times Square in New York City as a showcase of prosperity. In 2013, renovations began to return it to its original glory as the luxury hotel in Midtown Manhattan. When the New York-based design team went looking for a wine cellar designer who could deliver to the luxury standards of this high-profile US$200 million renovation, they turned to Winnipeg’s own Genuwine Cellars. Established in 1995 by Robb Denomme and Lance Kingma, Genuwine was born out of a love of fine wine and the lifestyle that accompanies it. Genuwine’s wine cellars were soon found in many of the most prestigious homes and private clubs in Canada. As their reputation grew, clients across North America (and eventually the world) began seeking the firm out. “Most of our work is in the U.S. now,” says CEO Robb Denomme. “But we have seen a growing number of international projects, especially over the last five years.”
The ownership group at the Knickerbocker Hotel exhausted several different potential wine cellar builder options before selecting Genuwine. “They were looking for a design firm,“ says Denomme, “not a millworker or woodshop. They wanted a boutique wine cellar designer that shared the luxurious vision of the original Knickerbocker.” Located on the fourth floor, the Knickerbocker’s wine feature is designed to be a visual centerpiece, servicing a number of venues within the hotel, including a 7,550 square-foot rooftop ultra-lounge—all of which will be overseen by famed American chef and hotelier Charlie Palmer. The project is challenging for several reasons. While the hotel has kept its historic façade, the interior has been completely gutted in order to build a thoroughly contemporary space. “The owners flew us to New York to head up a meeting held in a makeshift boardroom within the hotel,” says Denomme. It was then that the complexity of working with the myriad of designers, architects, lighting consultants, contractors, project managers and restaurant
Two-storey architectural wine feature with U/V protected glass (private residence, California)
consultants became very apparent. “The degree of project coordination required amidst all of the competing interests is really quite mind-blowing.” Genuwine’s innovative design solutions on the Knickerbocker Hotel have already turned some heads: their next New York project is a wine cellar in the trendy hotel, Sixty SOHO. Commercial wine cellars have always represented a large segment of Genuwine’s business, but the majority of its focus is in the luxury private wine cellar market. In July 2013, the Genuwine team was approached to design and build the world's most expensive wine cellar in a US$700 million home in the heart of Beijing, China. The billionaire client (and his consortium of international designers, purchasing agents and architects) sought to find the absolute best wine cellar design and build firm, and after prospecting the globe and reviewing proposals, found them in Winnipeg. This project involves a truly international group. The homeowner has at his disposal his own design, architectural and purchasing team in Beijing, a lead designer in New York, and the Genuwine Design Loft in Winnipeg. Genuwine is working closely with the New York designers on choosing
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Genuwine’s status as a luxury design and build firm has grown largely through word of mouth as clients who share the firm’s love of fine wine and luxury living have been eager to spread the word—both in commercial and private settings.
PROJECT SPOTLIGHT: The Knickerbocker Hotel (Times Square), Manhattan, NYC Projected completion date: Fall 2014 Design profile: • The 30’ x 5’ space will feature horizontal bottle displays made of glass and steel, enclosed inside an architectural glass wall and door system. • Holds 1,254 bottles • Precision climate-control system hidden inside cellar The wine cellar of the Knickerbocker Hotel in Times Square, NYC (rendering)
PROJECT SPOTLIGHT: Private wine cellar, Beijing, China Projected completion date: Summer 2015 Design profile: • Separate climatecontrolled rooms for white, red, and sparkling wine • A custom, climatecontrolled walk-in humidor • Computer-cut glass bottle storage displays • Undulating, LED-lit glass wine racks • Swedish leather-wrapped shelves • Infinity-mirror effect Overhead sketch view of the Beijing private residence wine cellar gallery
and sourcing materials for the project, as the homeowner has very particular ideas about using only the very best quality materials in the world. It helps when price is no object. “We can’t tell you how much this wine cellar will cost ...” says Denomme, ”... but we can tell you that the floor alone (890 square feet) is US$1.1 million.” This wine cellar can be better described as a wine cellar gallery: it has independent white wine and red wine cellars, a Champagne cabinet and a walk-in humidor with a tasting room that anchors them all together. Phase 1 of the Beijing project began in October 2014.
So what is it that puts Genuwine in a position to be involved in such ambitious projects? Denomme has a few answers. “Besides the fact that we have been specializing in custom wine cellars for nearly 20 years now, I think the main reason these exclusive, high-end projects come to us is our passion and commitment to the luxury lifestyle. Yes, we coordinate massively complex, multi-faceted design and build projects from across the world, and there is a lot that we need to think about, from design to engineering to climate control. And while it is really rewarding to see something so challenging come to fruition, the highest satisfaction is seeing our wine cellars become the ultimate embodiment of that luxury vision.”
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Chicago’s Theatre District is home to some of its most innovative food and wine destinations.
a taste of the unexpected: great wine cities
With contributions from Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, and Mike Muirhead How is the “greatness” of a city defined? For wine lovers, a city is great if it offers great food and wine choices. It might be a food and wine destination because it is a major capital, like New York, Paris, or Sydney. A great food and wine destination might also neighbour great wine regions, like San Francisco, Barcelona, or Rome. These are all, without a doubt, great wine cities.
But the greatness of a food and wine city is also partly in our own sense of discovery, and sometimes surprise—when the city we thought we knew gives us a magical experience. In their collective wine travels, the Sommeliers of Banville & Jones have had the distinct privilege to visit some of the most exciting cities in the world. Here, we present a few favourite wine and food scenes for your consideration.
L: Nico Osteria in the Thompson Chicago Hotel (photo courtesy of One Off Hospitality); R: The Loop in downtown Chicago.
Chicago, USA For most people, Chicago is not the first city to leap to mind when considering great wine cities of the world (or even of North America). With its international flight hub status, any Canadian who travels internationally will inevitably stop in Chicago; however, most will never leave O’Hare. And what a shame that is. Chicago might be one of the most under-recognized great “foody” scenes in the world. From the glitzy Theatre District to the edge of the Loop on trendy West Randolph St., you are always going to find something new and exciting. Of course, this is not news to Chicagoans, who enjoy a culinary scene that is both culturally diverse and offers a lively locavore flavour. The scene-makers in Chicago tend to blend the traditional with contemporary re-invention: Alinea, Purple Pig, Avec, and Girl and the Goat are all cutting-edge destinations on the scene. Some of the most exciting concepts in Chicago are the brainchild of the One Off Hospitality group, which has established its reputation with such concepts as Avec,
The Publican, Blackbird, and the Violet Hour. Wine Director Bret Heir describes what makes Chicago great: “From the close local farms, to the direct flights into O’Hare that bring fresh seafood, the freshness, diversity and quality are incredible, and the wine scene reflects that. Chicago is a food and wine town. In the last few years, there has been a huge resurgence of wine drinking, and [diners] expect thoughtful, curated selections when they go out. It’s a perfect circle that keeps the wine geeks and the public happy.” Nico Osteria is One Off Hospitality’s newest concept. The food is Italian-inspired seafood that teams Chef Erling Wu-Bower with Pastry Chef Amanda Rockman for unconventional rustic offerings. Their wine selections focus on organic, family-run Italian and Greek estates, along with older vintage wines and Grower Champagnes. Their wine motto: “Have less and choose better.” Chef Wu-Bower shares his recipe for Salt Roasted Branzino on page 30.
w w w . p o r t a g e m u t u a l . c o m
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L-R: The wine cellar at Azafrán; Azafrán’s filet mignon with polenta and grilled organic vegetables (photos courtesy of Azafrán); Mendoza’s winery tours are a short drive from the city: Ave Winery winemaker Mariano Vignoni (photo by Mike Muirhead).
Mendoza, Argentina The city of Mendoza spreads across the valley of the Río Mendoza; its beautiful plazas and parks echo the green lushness of the vineyards nearby. The snowcapped Andes frame both city and vineyards. Mendoza is nestled in the heart of Malbec country, and in the heart of the city is a pulsing food and wine scene. Until the 1990s, Argentina was mostly unknown in North America. It produced wine styles that were not competitive on the international market and most of its large quantities of mediocre wine was consumed domestically. However, the last 20 years has seen a new focus on producing high-quality, internationally fashionable wines, including the runaway success of Mendoza Malbec. These wine trends have inspired the lively food scene in Mendoza.
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Azafrán Restó is a pioneer in this trend of culinary and wine experiences. The eclectic menu showcases the roots of traditional Mendoza cuisine in its most exciting contemporary styles. Wine connoisseurs will discover Azafrán’s wine not on a list, but rather on a tour of their wine cellar, where they are organized by variety and price. A friendly Sommelier is on hand to answer questions and help visitors with their wine and food pairing choices. The restaurant’s manager, Gervasio Guiñazü, describes what is special about Mendoza: “Mendoza is one of the most exiting cities to visit in Argentina, and a huge part of it is because of its wine scene. The wine tradition mixes with a new wave of chefs who dedicate their careers to creating a unique experience where food and wine are very best friends.”
Melbourne, Australia Melbourne might have a bit of a little brother complex. Like many little brothers, Melbourne is always trying to compete with its big brother, Sydney—but somehow it never gets the edge. Which of these sounds more familiar: Bondi Beach or St. Kilda? Sydney Opera House or the MCG? Sydney Harbour or Yarra River? However, every little brother has that one thing that they do better, and Melbourne’s food and wine scene is its ace in the hole. Melbourne is less than two hours from four distinct wine regions in Australia’s State of Victoria. The city brings together great wine, ocean fish and seafood, fresh produce and food from the land, talented chefs and a wide world of culinary influences. It has a diverse cross-section of top offerings, including highquality coffee, trendy wine bars, microbrew pubs, and fine dining establishments. Melbourne’s Central Business District is also famous for its laneways that appear out of nowhere and offer every type of cuisine under the sun, all jammed into tiny two-seater tables
crowding the alleyway. In one small alleyway is fresh traditional Vietnamese; a few steps further is a trendy interpretation of the taco. This place has it all. Laneway dining should be a self-explored journey, but make sure you check out Cumulus Inc. Eating House and Bar and its sister wine bar, Cumulus Up. Both are located in the fashion and art district on Flinder’s Lane. Andrew McConnell has become one of Melbourne’s most recognized chefs for his honest and fresh food, and the menu at Cumulus Inc. is where it all started. Not content to be simply a food destination, Cumulus builds its food and wine community through its events. On the first Saturday of every month, Cumulus Up hosts a City Cellar Door & Wine market, where you can taste through wines from the Victoria wine region while enjoying fresh roasted pig on a bun. Cumulus is a great example of drawing the surrounding wine region into the city—and that is exactly what is putting this little brother on the map. Chef McConnell shares his spectacular recipe for tuna tartare on page 31.
Clockwise from left: Cumulus Inc. Eating House and Bar (photo courtesy of Cumulus Inc).; the vineyards of the Yarra Valley are a one-hour drive from Melbourne; the restaurants of Degraves Street in Melbourne’s Central Business District.
Clockwise from left: Traditional barges for transporting port on the Duoro River in Porto; Chef Rui Paula’s Pá de cabrito, a traditional goat stew served at DOP; Chef Rui Paula (photos courtesy of DOP).
Porto, Portugal Rising from the stone gorge of the Douro in a crush of small buildings shoved into the edge of the rock, Porto (Oporto to locals) is a city like no other. Steep, tight streets and cobblestones are the norm. But inside these old structures lives a modern, cosmopolitan city, driven by activities of the provincial capital, the university, the prosperous Port wine trade, and regional industries. Its local wine stars are Ports, heady and sweet-ish fortified wines that bear the name of the city. But locals also know that a brisk trade is done in dry table wines from the Douro Valley, and that the wine regions of Portugal offer up an array of fish-friendly whites, full-bodied reds, and even sparkling gems as well. The restaurant scene is lively, supported by a population of locals, and not solely by tourism. The food and wine scene covers a wide range of traditional and contemporary styles, from close to home and far away. One of the chefs who brings the magic of these ingredients to life is Rui Paula.
Rui Paula was born in Oporto, and developed his love for cooking alongside a love for his grandmother’s delicious traditional dishes. Paula has an uncanny memory of these tastes, and uses his international training to marry modern culinary techniques with the best of traditional Douro cuisine. His first Douro restaurant was DOC, which re-purposed a building that sits along the shoreline of the river between Régua and Pinhão east of Porto. DOC became the essential meeting place for anyone living in or visiting the region. In 2010 Rui Paula opened the DOP restaurant in Porto, in the historic Palace of the Arts building. DOP fits in the top tier of fine dining in Porto, offering tasting menus paired with international and regional wines; a range of seasonal specials; and in all, celebrating traditional Douro tastes in an elegant, modern presentation.
Clockwise from top left: Madai snapper crudo at Nico Osteria, Chicago (photo by Derek Richmond; courtesy of One Off Hospitality); Azafrán’s filet mignon with spinach and blue cheese, (photo courtesy of Azafrán); Cumulus Up’s duck waffle with foie gras and prune (photo courtesy of Cumulus Inc.); Cumulus Inc.’s tuna tartare with crushed pea salad (photo courtesy of Cumulus Inc.).
Salt Roasted Branzino with Wild Mushroom and Currant Brown Butter Sauce Chef Erling Wu-Bower of Nico Osteria Serves 2 Brazino, or European sea bass, is a firm, light-tasting fish. If you cannot find it locally, you can substitute Chilean sea bass or snapper. If the fish is whole, have your local fishmonger remove the fins, gills and guts.
2 2 kg 12 2 tbsp 4 oz 2 oz 2 tbsp 1/4 cup
Branzino, scaled, guts, fins and gills removed kosher salt egg whites Pepper to season olive oil butter wild mushrooms (morels or chanterelles) cleaned dried currants Amaro bitters (Montenegro or Averna) Juice of half a lemon Salt and pepper
For the fish: Combine kosher salt and egg whites. The mix should have the consistency and feel of wet sand. Using a small butcher’s knife and kitchen scissors, remove the spine bone without separating the two fish fillets. The fish should stay whole. Save the spine bone. Season the inside of the fish with salt and pepper. Place the bone back in the fish. Lay a layer of salt mixture on the bottom of a roasting pan. Place the seasoned branzino on top, and cover the body with the remaining salt mixture. Don’t cover the head or
tail, but make sure to cover the entire body with salt. Use your hands to pack the salt, so it forms a crust. Bake at 425°F for 12–16 minutes. The salt crust should be golden brown and the internal temperature should be 150°F. Using a kitchen spatula and brush, break and remove the crust, as well as all excess salt. Carefully separate the two fillets and remove the bone. Place on a hot plate. For the sauce: Combine currants and Amaro; leave at room temperature in an airtight container. It is best if you do this a day in advance. In a medium sauce pot, brown the mushrooms with a little olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and add butter. Cook until the butter is dark brown, not black. Add currants with a little of the Amaro they are soaked in, lemon juice and more salt and pepper if needed. To plate: After the spine bone is removed, place both fillets on top of each other, remove the skin from the top fillet. Place the fish on a large platter. Spoon the sauce over the fish, making sure there are plenty of mushrooms and currants on the fish. Garnish with a few lemon wedges.
Pair with: Kendall Jackson 2012 Vintner’s Reserve California, United States ($18.99) or Bokisch 2013 Albariño Lodi, United States ($23.99)
tuna tartare with crushed pea salad Chef Andrew McConnell of Cumulus Inc. Serves 4 1/2 1 1 tbsp 2 tbsp
2 tbsp 1 tsp
1 cup 3 tbsp 1 tbsp 1 20 3 tbsp
clove garlic anchovy fillet light soy sauce olive oil Pinch of caster sugar olive oil balsamic vinegar Finely grated zest of 1/4 lemon sashimi-grade tuna, trimmed and cut into 1.5 cm cubes peas extra virgin olive oil lemon juice spring onion, finely sliced mint leaves, shredded Salt and freshly ground white pepper goat’s curd or ricotta cheese Arugula and pea shoots to garnish (optional)
Method: Crush the garlic clove and anchovy using a mortar and pestle, then transfer to a medium-sized bowl. Whisk in the soy sauce, sugar, olive oil, vinegar, and lemon zest. Add the tuna to the bowl and leave to marinate in the fridge for 15 minutes, stirring gently every so often. Meanwhile, bring 2 litres of salted water to a boil, blanch the peas for 2 minutes or until tender and refresh in iced water. Using a mortar and pestle, gently crush the peas, then transfer to a bowl and add the extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, shallot and mint. Mix well, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. To serve, use the back of a spoon to spread the goat’s curd over a serving plate and arrange the pea salad on top. Season the tuna with a pinch of salt and, using a slotted spoon, remove the tuna from the marinade and carefully arrange over the pea salad. Dress the plate with pea shoots and arugula.
Pair with: Coriole 2013 Chenin Blanc McLaren Vale, Australia ($19.99) or innocent bystander 2013 Pinot Rosé Yarra Valley, Australia ($23.99)
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gary’s corner Photo by Paul Martens
By Gary Hewitt, MSc, CWE, SGD, AIWS
Great Wine Cities of CE 79: Pompeii On August 24, in the year 79 of the Common Era, the eruption of Mount Vesuvius smothered Pompeii in ash and stone, freezing vignettes of Roman life, including the local wine scene, in a moment of time. Pompeiians were renowned for their wine-drinking capacity, a reputation fuelled perhaps by their worship of Bacchus, a.k.a. Dionysus, who was god of wine and revelry. Certainly, wine of various qualities was readily available at outlets of varying repute where people could sit and pass time together, play dice, chat, or even partake in “private services” in the spare room. Members of the poorer classes, unable to afford a private kitchen, obtained their food and wine primarily at street-level fast food joints. A thermopolium sold ready-to-eat food (olives, bread, cheese, lentils, stews) and wine. Anyone could eat at these wine bars, including slaves, foreigners and infamia—a class of ill-repute composed of actors, actresses, pimps, prostitutes, gladiators, undertakers, and executioners who were excluded from “respectable” life. As such, this class was often shunned by the wellheeled, gods-abiding upper class. Imagine leaving the street to enter the wide doorway of Thermopolium of Asellina to sidle up to a stool beside a broad masonary counter embedded with dolia (earthenware jars) containing food or wine. Notice
the comforting shrines for the Lares (household gods), Mercury (god of commerce) and Dionysus. Order a calix (an earthenware mug) of wine ladled from the dolium or amphora (a 26-litre two-handled clay jar) containing your favourite wine and mixed to your liking with two parts water, perhaps hot or even salt water. Ah, the good life. Not in the mood for seawater? Try some mulsum, wine sweetened with honey just before drinking; or, some conditum with additional herbs and spices such as fennel or pepper. Or perhaps splurge on an older vintage wine stored in a resin-coated amphora (oh, that yummy taste of pine), and damn Columella and the in-crowd who say the best wines are resin-free! If street culture is not your thing, then plan to dine at home and invite a few friends—nine (not counting slaves, of course) being the perfect number to make optimal use of the trendy arrangement of three tables each with three lounges. Plan to start in the late afternoon after some quality time in the public baths. In the meantime, someone needs to slip out to the local wine taberna (a barrel-vaulted, single room shop). Check out the House of Amarantus, which is absolutely crammed with amphora, even in the garden. For today, bypass the imports from Crete, Sicily, or Turkey, and buy something local from Campania. If the Falernian is too expensive, no matter which of the three crus, see if they have something white from Surrentine or Massic. The common daily drink was new wine, defined in Roman law as less than one year old, supposedly not yet bitter. However, for special occasions Roman connoisseurs savoured sweet, aged wines. Strong, sweet wines could be made from shrivelled, high-sugar, late-harvest grapes or by adding
boiled-down concentrated grape must to boost the alcohol of weak wines or to sweeten others. As for aging, Falernian became drinkable after 10 years and blossomed between 15 and 20, whereas Surrentine came into its own after 20 to 25. Perhaps resinsealed amphorae prolonged aging, but they were seldom completely filled and trapped air must have oxidized wines to a state that would be unacceptable today. Great wines were often described as deep amber in colour suggesting maderization (oxidized and heated) due to the common practice of storing them in lofts over hot, smoky hearths. Perhaps the great intense and sweet wines could withstand aging, whereas the lesser wines required additions of honey and flavourings to mask their faults. Now, armed with a guidebook’s modicum of advice about the Pompeii wine scene, lastly consider Pliny the Elder’s drinking advice: “One goes to the baths, getting so hot as sometimes to become unconscious, then rushing out, often still naked, to grab a large vessel of wine and swill down its contents, only to vomit it up again so more could be drunk.”
Resurrecting the Ancient wines of Pompeii In an ongoing project to recreate the wines of Pompeii, six areas within the city known to have been used to grow grapevines have been replanted with Piedirosso and Sciascinoso, ancient grapevine varieties, using period Roman viticultural techniques. Likewise, each annual crop is harvested and made into wine following ancient guidelines. Campanian wine producer Antonio Mastroberardino, the instigator of the project, bottles the wine called Villa dei Misteri (Villa of Mysteries) after the Pompeii landmark famous for its beautiful frescoes.
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trending Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s HK
By Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG), CSW
Go East: Hong Kong’s Thriving Wine Market Bordeaux were the initial benefactors of the thriving auction market, but many collectors have now turned their eyes to Burgundy, and wines from iconic Domaine Romanée Conti can command stratospheric prices—recently six bottles of the 1990 vintage sold for over $135,000. In May 2014, Sotheby’s HK hosted an auction entitled A Celebration of Year of the Horse: Cheval Blanc Direct from the Château and an Important European Cellar, featuring impressive quantities of Cheval Blanc wines direct from the Château in rare large format bottles from magnum to 18-litre Melchior.
Hong Kong may not top the list of the world’s most famous wine destinations; however, recent developments suggest that it may appear there shortly. In 2008, the wine market in Hong Kong was deregulated, thereby removing importation taxes and making it the first free wine port among the world’s major economies. Since then, countless wine bars, restaurants, schools, and businesses have opened their doors hoping to capitalize on the city’s desire for all things wine. Hong Kong has also become a hub for wine trading and distribution, serving in particular the emerging and lucrative market of Mainland China. In 2013 alone, over $1 billion dollars worth of wine was imported into Hong Kong, much of it destined for China. Tamara Maccherini, commercial director at Tolaini Estates in Tuscany, has been travelling to Hong Kong for the past four years to promote the Tolaini wines. She explains: “The team at Tolaini feels it is important to invest in this developing market, as consumers there are increasingly appreciating Italian wines. In fact, sales of wine to Hong Kong have been largely responsible for the 11 per cent growth seen in the Italian wine market.” This increase in sales is an achievement to which other European countries increasingly aspire. And with pollsters predicting that by 2017 half of the wine in the world will be consumed by the United States and China, wineries need to pay attention to the market. Visitors to Hong Kong are the beneficiaries of this bourgeoning marketplace and opportunities for wine lovers have never been greater. For those who have never experienced a wine auction, but have dreamt of hoisting the paddle, Hong Kong represents the ultimate destination, having eclipsed both London and New York City as the largest wine auction centre in the world. Wineries from
Countless retail establishments have opened their doors following the 2008 deregulation, among them the historic Berry Brothers & Rudd. BBR, as they are affectionately known, have not set up shop outside of the United Kingdom since they opened their London storefront in 1698, leading one to believe that they must see enormous potential in Hong Kong. For those looking for a less traditional shopping experience, the 800-metre escalator that adorns the Central District may be just the ticket. Originally designed to ferry commuters, the escalator has become a destination in its own right. Users can jump on and off, making the rounds of the many exciting food and wine establishments that now line the streets the escalator cuts through. Hollywood Road has joined the celebrated Lan Kwai Fong district as a go-to destination in Hong Kong’s flourishing wine scene. Hong Kong has simultaneously developed its reputation as a culinary destination. Chefs from around the world have recognized the importance of being represented in this important market, where Michelin stars are being awarded at a dizzying rate. “One of my favourite places while I’m in Hong Kong is La Piola,” shares Ms. Maccherini. “It is an Italian restaurant offering a very authentic Italian experience and a warm feeling, especially its Aperitif [an early evening Italian tradition of small plates and refreshing drinks as a relaxing prelude to dinner]. I also love Yardbird for its modern izakaya style, specializing in yakitori [skewered, grilled chicken] and a great eclectic wine list.” Despite the recent slowdown in some of the region’s economies, the wine culture in Hong Kong continues to evolve. As a destination for wine lovers, the opportunities for exploration and adventure are limitless. While Hong Kong may not yet hold the cache of great wine cities such as Napa and London, it is drawing the interest of those in tune with trending wine markets.
vity Just say no to gra
560-201 Portage Avenue
Photos by Ian McCausland
Kristen Chemerika-Lew and Kyle Lew of Chew
Chew is a 21-seat restaurant brimming with character—from the uniquely plated fare to the incredible tables that were hand-crafted by one of the servers on their team. Faced with the constant question of when they are going to get a bigger space, Chef Kristen reveals that she and Kyle are expanding into the space right beside theirs—but not with more tables for the restaurant. Launching October 4, the space will house baked goods and desserts as well as specialty prepared foods inspired by the recipes of Kristen’s Eastern European grandparents. The large communal table is a place where people can sit, eat, and enjoy the community. First meal you remember that made you interested in food: When I was a kid, my parents weren’t really into cooking. Food was just fuel to keep you moving. But I remember going to my aunt’s and she made steamed artichokes with butter, and it was so good! That was when I realized you could really eat for pleasure. If you weren’t chefs: I think that Kyle would be a real estate agent. When he gets excited about any idea, he just stays excited. He would sell something. I would cave to my parents’ wishes and go to law school. That’s what I was supposed to do. But I definitely took the money they gave me to take the LSAT and went to cooking school instead. Next big food trend: I think foraged ingredients are going to be the next big thing. It’s been happening around the world and it’s just starting to happen in Winnipeg now. Somewhere in the last couple of generations we’ve lost this knowledge of what is growing
in our backyard, and people want to regain that. People are finding really amazing things just outside their back door: thistle patches, morels, and chanterelles. We have wonderful foragers that come to our door, who really enjoy doing it, and we really enjoy compensating them. They don’t necessarily even want money, but they want to trade experiences. Favourite wine: Heron Ridge O-Nine Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon. We really love South African wines. We have several on our menu because they pair so well with food. Our servers are also really passionate about the wine. We are always trying to encourage customers who haven’t tried South African wine in a long time, and only remember the bad Pinotages from the ’80s, to try some new pairings with their meals. Signature dish: Pan roasted duck breast with smoked cherry sauce and sweet potato gnocchi Favourite place to eat on your day off: Kyle and I don’t cook breakfast for ourselves, so on our day off every Monday, we either go to the Falafel Place or to North Garden for dim sum. Favourite food travel destination: Montreal. There is something so beautiful and gluttonous about everything you eat there. And if I walk everywhere, I consider it a wash! Guilty pleasure: Butter. But I don’t feel guilty about it.
Pan-Roasted Duck Breast with Smoked Cherry Sauce and Sweet Potato Gnocchi 6 1 lb 1 1/2 cups 1/4 cup 1/2 tsp 1/4 tsp 1/4 tsp 4 1 1/4 cup 1 1 cup
Peking duck breasts (7–8 oz) bing cherries (fresh or frozen) hickory woodchips sweet vermouth Chinese five spice green cardamom, ground fennel seed, ground large sweet potatoes russet potato Pecorino Romano Cheese, finely grated large egg all-purpose flour, plus 2 cups more for dusting the tabletop butter, cut into cubes for frying gnocchi and mounting sauce each salt and pepper, plus salt for boiling gnocchi
Smoked Cherry Sauce: In your BBQ or smoker, heat 1½ cups of soaked hickory woodchips, so chips are smoldering but are not actively on fire. Smoke cherries for approximately 30 minutes. The cherries should still have structure, but the bite will be gone and the flavour should remind you of camping as a child. For the sauce, put sweet vermouth into a medium-sized pot and light on fire. Reduce by half. Add half of the cherries along with salt, pepper, cardamom and fennel. Reduce by half. Add remainder of cherries and reduce by a third. When reheating, reduce liquid to a thin syrup. Sweet Potato Gnocchi: In a 375°F oven, bake sweet and russet potatoes until tender (takes 90–120 minutes). Cut slits in the potatoes immediately after removing from the oven to release the steam. When the potatoes are cool enough to touch, run flesh through a food mill or potato ricer. You want the final product to be as smooth as possible—using a potato masher won’t allow you to have a nice texture in the gnocchi. Add egg, 1 cup of flour, ¼ c pecorino and ½ teaspoon of both salt and pepper. Mix quickly and efficiently,
as when potatoes are overworked they become gummy. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil (the water should almost be as salty as the ocean). Liberally flour your work surface. Divide the potato dough into three sections and roll into logs approximately 1" thick. Cut each log on a bias into 1 1/2-inch pieces. Run your knife between the dough and the counter in one quick motion to release any gnocchi that may have stuck. Use your knife to slide the gnocchi onto a heavily floured baking sheet. Shake them off the tray directly into the boiling water using an upwards flicking motion, so they bounce gently into the water. When gnocchi floats to the top, use a slotted spoon to remove from the water and place on a well-oiled baking sheet. Cool and refrigerate before finishing the dish. Finish the dish: Score the skin of the duck breast in a crosshatch pattern—this will help the fat render out. Season the duck liberally with salt and pepper. Season with five spice only on the meaty side (it will just burn on the skin side). Place skin-side down in a pan over medium-low heat and slowly render the fat from the skin. Move to a 450°F oven after a few minutes. Place on the very bottom of the oven (not the bottom rack, the actual bottom) to continue crisping the skin. After about 6 minutes, flip the breast meaty-side down (the skin should be thin, crisp and dark golden brown). Cook for another 3 minutes and then remove from oven and pan so that the meat can rest a few minutes before slicing. While the duck is cooking, heat cherry sauce in a small pot until rapidly boiling. In a non-stick pan, heat butter and add sweet potato gnocchi. Cook for about 5 minutes on medium heat until golden brown, tossing the pan frequently. Add salt to taste. Slice duck on a slight angle into about eight pieces. Duck is a game bird and is meant to be served slightly rare. In plating the dish, put the gnocchi on the bottom, arrange your sliced duck on top and pour the cherries over the duck. We like to garnish the whole dish with edible sprouts—they add a nice fresh bite. The easiest ones to find are pea shoots in an Asian grocery store. Use a garnish that you can actually eat— there is nothing worse than starting your meal by picking something off of your food.
Visit a dairy farm. Meet local farmers who produce our food. Dine under the stars. Tickets on sale February 2015. Only 100 available. A Farm Dinner Experience www.grazingintheďŹ eld.ca
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Grazing in the Field 2014
This year’s Grazing in the Field event was hosted by Hans and Nelleke Gorter on September 13 on their family’s dairy farm (Optimist Holsteins) in Otterburne, MB. The evening opened with appetizers and St Germain and beet juice cocktails courtesy of Bacardi and Green Carrot Juice Co, followed by a tour of the farm.
cheese course (with cheeses brought in by Sobeys), which was paired with Delaforce Fine Tawny Port. Dinner finished with berries and Farm Fresh Yogurt (made by Optimist Holsteins) and a glass of Lucerne chocolate milk. All courses were paired with a specialty Bacardi cocktail or wine by Banville & Jones Wine Co.
Dinner consisted of six courses that focused on locally sourced dairy, produce, and meat prepared by Chef Ben Kramer and his Diversity Food Services team. Rich Lane Farms supplied their natural, pasture-raised poultry and pork for the ricotta gnocchi and the Berkshire pork five ways, respectively. The crowd was treated to a special Canadian
Join the Grazing in the Field community on Facebook and Twitter to stay current on when tickets go on sale for next year’s Grazing in the Field or for Off the Field events held in Winnipeg’s locally owned hotspots throughout the year. For more information, visit www.grazinginthefield.ca.
gluggy by Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS)
Cape Town Delights In an issue all about great wine cities, it is easy to think of New York, Paris, and Rome for their dining prowess. The best part of searching out dining experiences is finding a destination so out of the ordinary that it stays with you long after the trip. For me, that place is South Africa’s metropolitan beauty: Cape Town. What makes this city on the Western Cape such a great destination comes down to a few factors. The first is the cultural diversity—with Africaans, Dutch, and English all contributing to the palette of flavours. The second is the cosmopolitan culture. Like most cosmopolitan hubs, it is a draw for international tourists, foodies, and chefs galore. Third is the consistent coastal climate that lends itself to lots of incredible local produce, including wine. But the best surprise in Cape Town (and almost all of South Africa) is price. Whether it is casual fare at a local bistro or one of the top restaurants in South Africa, your dining dollar goes a long way in Cape Town and beyond.
The Test Kitchen’s cooked langoustine is served in a concrete ball at the table on a bed of hot rocks, cinnamon and Star anise (photo by Jan Bartelsman)
Belthazar This destination is a must-go when visiting Cape Town’s historic waterfront and harbour. This is a wine bar with a food obsession. With anywhere from 60 to 200 wines available by the glass at any one time, this seafood and steak restaurant in the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is a wine lover’s dream. Here you can try one of South Africa’s signature fish, kingklip (CDN$16), or try a cut of steak (CDN$18–$60) that helped make them Cape Town’s best steakhouse. (www.belthazar.co.za)
When I was on my last wine-buying trip to South Africa, we were treated to some incredible (and incredibly affordable) meals. Here are some standouts that you cannot miss on your culinary tour of Cape Town. The Test Kitchen Named on the Best 50 Restaurants in the World list, this restaurant is a stand out in Cape Town. This small 65seat concept is one of the hottest tickets in town, and for good reason: from the open-plan kitchen comes your choice of the five-course Discovery Menu (CDN$60) or the eight-course Gourmand Menu (CDN$80), which can be paired with either wine or tea for every course. Dale Luke Roberts is one of the hottest chefs in town, so if you cannot get into The Test Kitchen, try his other restaurant, The Pot Luck Club. (www.thetestkitchen.co.za)
Belthazar is housed on the Waterfront Hotel in the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront (photo courtesy of Belthazar)
Reuben’s The best part about Reuben’s is that you can enjoy the amazing locally inspired cuisine in two locations: in Cape Town (at the One & Only Hotel) or in the heart of Franschhoek wine country. Chef Reuben Reiffel has become a household name in South Africa, and the food he prepares is fresh and experimental. Along with the delicious menu (you must try the braised lamb neck for CDN$17), they also have a wine list voted in the top 100 in the country. (www.reubens.co.za) 95 Keerom This historic building dates back to the late 1600s, when it was a stable and workers’ quarters for the Company Gardens; now it is a luxurious Milanese-inspired restaurant. Fresh ingredients are at the core of this expressive menu. This trendy spot has been near the top of Cape Town dining for the last five years and is a great place to see and be seen. (www.95keerom.com) Dining in Cape Town is a unique experience, whether it is in the heart of Cape Town or ocean-front fine dining. The food is consistently amazing, and it is always a deal. Now, if only getting there were less costly.
95 Keerom is housed in a building that dates back to the 1600s (photo courtesy of 95 Keerom)
Showcasing Canada’s Cuisine Sample the latest in upscale, urban cuisine – in a setting that blends Old World elegance with the latest in culinary trends. Featuring food prepared and served by Red River College’s students and chefs, Jane’s is an exciting addition to the downtown dining scene, injecting vibrancy and life into Winnipeg’s historic Exchange District.
janesrestaurant.ca PH: 204.632.2594
Call or visit our website today to make your reservation. And be sure to try Jane’s wine (specially bottled for RRC’s School of Hospitality and Culinary Arts), available for purchase at Banville & Jones Wine Co.
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Wine & Food Evenings
Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience.
Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings.
Cost: $85.99 per person Sunday, October 19: The Garden’s Bountiful Harvest with Cafe Savour Friday, November 7: Seafood Taster with 295 York Friday, January 9: More Comfort with Chew Restaurant Saturday, January 17: Heat in January with Chef Rob Thomas Friday, January 30: Chef’s Table with Prairie Ink
Cost: $89.99 per person Thursday, November 13: Joey Restaurant Thursday, January 22: Diana’s Legendary Pizza with Diana’s Cucina & Lounge
Luxury Tasting Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialities cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures. Cost: $99.00 per person Friday, November 28: The Best of Australia
banville & jones
wine & food
events schedule October 2014 through January 2015
WINEMAKER’S DINNER: PROVENZA, LUGANA, ITALY Cantine Provenza—Cà Maiol sits at the boundary of the Italian regions of Lombardy and Veneto. Indigenous grapes harvested from the lakeside appellations Lugana and Garda make deliciously refreshing foodfriendly wines. Aldo Steccanella, Provenza’s experienced and outspoken International Sales Representative, will present Provenza’s awardwinning wines paired with a multi-course Italian dinner prepared by Amici Catering. Date: Thursday, October 30 Time: 7:00 pm Location: Banville & Jones Tuscan Room (2nd Floor, 1616 St Mary’s Rd) Cost: $100 per person
Click on the Events & Classes tab at www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on Wine & Food Events. To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE (9463) • Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. • Events begin at 7 pm and take place in the 2nd floor Tuscany Room unless otherwise noted. • Prices do not include taxes.
Christmas Baskets & Gifts
Holiday gift giving made easy!
Christmas Baskets and Gifts Sweet Treats $60 Savoury Samples $60 Wine & Cheese $90 Festive Favourites $130 Holiday Reds $150 Decadent Delights $250 2-Bottle Gift Box: Sister Act $45 One-Bottle Gift Bag: Solo Red or Solo White $20 Custom baskets are also available in-store! Email us 24/7 at firstname.lastname@example.org to order your basket. Free delivery available on orders over $200 within city limits. Detailed descriptions of the baskets can be found on our website: www.banvilleandjones.com
1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg 204-948-WINE (9463)
Regular Hours: Monday to Friday 10 am to 8 pm Saturday 10 am to 6 pm Sundays and holidays 11 am to 6 pm
December Hours: Monday to Saturday 10 am to 8 pm Sundays and holidays 11 am to 6 pm Christmas Eve 10 am to 4 pm
Christmas Day Closed Boxing Day 12 pm to 5 pm New Year’s Eve 10 am to 5 pm New Year’s Day Closed
Verona, Italy is a wine and food-lover’s dream
european vacation for the oenophile When touring the great European wine regions, you will find yourself roaming along the stone walls surrounding Burgundian vineyards or relaxing in the rolling hills and olive groves of Tuscany. Here, we propose a different kind of wine tour—one that explores how cities can represent and influence the experience of wine culture in their unique regions. We tap into the travels of four Manitoba Sommeliers, who take us on an urban wine tour through four of Europe's important wine cities: Verona, Vienna, Lyon, and London. www.banvilleandjones.com 47
Verona’s amphitheatre is the cultural centre of this ancient city
Verona by Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW Insiders say that Verona has been hosting great parties for 2,000 years. The Romans had lavish dinner parties, and the ensuing centuries saw conquerors from the east, west and north vie for the city’s strategic military position and enjoy its food and wine. Great natural resources attracted a steady stream of prosperous visitors and occupiers who sustained a remarkable food and wine culture. Verona is still a strategic intersection for wine, food, and tourism. The city is easily accessible by rail, air, and highway routes. It is the centre of the Veneto wine region, Italy’s largest producer of quality (DOC and DOCG) wines. The region boasts a rich variety of light red Valpolicella and dark, heady Amarone; refreshing red Bardolino and crisp white Soave; oceans of Pinot Grigio and lots of bubbly Prosecco. A bit further north and east, the Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions offer less well-known premium quality wines. Few wine cities boast such a range within such easy reach. Verona is also a centre for the wine industry. Each year in late March or early April, the annual Vinitaly trade show sees city hotels and restaurants packed with wine and hospitality professionals from around the world. This is a good time to avoid being in Verona if you do not need to attend—but the event helps to support a lively restaurant and wine scene. The Roman amphitheatre in the centre of the old city draws many thousands of visitors (who also love to eat good food and drink good wine) to opera, ballet, and gala evenings. Even outside the performance season, the amphitheatre itself draws visitors. The Veronese have a love affair with great food and wine. Menus offer what the land and waters around
the city provide: a variety of rice, polenta, and pasta dishes; radicchio and vegetables that change with the seasons; pork, veal, duck, and even bistecca di cavallo (horse steak); and fish from the river and the Adriatic. A diner can enjoy something daring, or something comforting; one can spend a lot of money or a little.
DO NOT MISS: Just outside the old city walls, Al Bracere (Via Adigetto, 6, Verona; http://www.albracere.com) is a local restaurant housed in a building that was a church from the 15th to 19th centuries, and still bares frescoes on its walls. The menu offers a good range of regional wines with fresh seasonal fare, wood fired pizza, pastas, and Veronese meat dishes. For those craving a more opulent experience, dine at Antica Bottega del Vino (Via Scudo di Franci, 3; http://www.bottegavini.it/): In the centre of the old town, the menu offers local fare done with flair. The wine list has a massive range of choices, and includes many of the country’s and the region’s best producers. Book in advance.
by Gary Hewitt, Sommelier (CWE, SGD, AIWS) cuisine (schnitzel, Wurst, white asparagus, crispy pork roast), specialty restaurants, and, to quench a hunger pang, kebob or pizza street vendors. Of course, the city is Vienna. Known in German as Wien (pronounced veen), it has long been associated with Wein (pronounced vine) or in English, wine. There are currently 612 hectares of vineyard within city limits, more than in any other major capital city, leading to the epithet World Capital of Wine. Historically, vineyards were cultivated right in the city core, although today most have been nudged towards the outskirts.
Urban vines in Vienna
A settlement has existed for millennia at the extreme northeastern end of the Alps mountain range where the Danube River broadens onto the plain. Celts and Romans, Middle Age tribes, Baroque, and Hapsburg empires called this site home. Today, it is Austria’s capital and largest city, where 2.4 million people live in a cosmopolitan, metropolitan area that integrates a rich history with modern times. Considered a textbook of successful urban planning with excellent integrated mass rapid transit, pedestrianonly zones, and extensive green belts and parks, it routinely tops lists of the most livable cities in the world. Here, in the City of Music, outstanding classical music and opera coexist with a vibrant modern music scene. There are historic coffee shops serving sensational tortes and treats, restaurants with local Germanic
Vienna is also the hub for the sale of Austrian wine, led by the signature white grape variety Grüner Veltliner, which gives spicy dry white wines of exceptional food compatibility. A plethora of other dry whites, stunning late-harvest and botrytis-affected dessert wines, Sekt (sparkling wine), and a range of red wines (30% by overall production) made from grapes such as Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt complete a remarkable range. Excellent wine merchants and wine bars serving wines in Austrian crystal stemware (most famously Riedel) add to the contemporary scene.
DO NOT MISS: Visit Vienna’s Heurige: small, often family-run taverns that serve food alongside wine produced from their own urban vineyards. New vintage wine becomes heurig on St Martin’s Day November 11 and a bush of pine twigs hung above the door indicates the wine is available. Beware though: if the door is closed, the owners are likely in the vineyards. For a list of top Heurige check out www.wienwein.at.
by Christopher Sprague, Sommelier, 529 Wellington The city enjoys its own rich produce and charcuterie, and draws from neighbouring provinces with ease: citrus and vegetables of the Rhône Valley in the south; as well as food from the waters, pastures, and forest of Burgundy in the north. Lyon draws from the wines of its neighbours, and those of France and beyond, with ease. However, Lyon’s most loved wine is Beaujolais. The Lyonnais know that Beaujolais offers a delicious range, from grapey, fresh young Beaujolais to complex, silky Cru Beaujolais that bears a great resemblance to its red Burgundy cousins.
On the banks of the Saone River in Lyon, France
Even in antiquity, Lyon’s fairs drew moneylenders, traders, and crafters to its sumptuous dining tables. Silk traders passed through, spawning the silk and weaving industries. The spice trade used old Roman routes through the town. Locals built a system of secret passageways (traboules) to move these precious goods without detection. Dual culinary traditions grew up and thrived: a homey restaurant style (the bouchon) that fed workers at the end of the workday and a tradition of fine cuisine, supported by prosperous bourgeoisie. If you are serious about wine and food, a visit to Lyon is inevitable—and they make it easy to get there by air, car, or TGV train. The city’s influence is worldwide. The legendary chef Paul Bocuse established his reputation in Lyon, and the renowned culinary institute that bears his name is here. Wine and food societies have long histories and active memberships. The biennial Bocuse d’Or culinary competition attracts the brightest and best from around the globe.
The food scene is unparalleled. Lyon boasts a majority of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOFs, the prestigious, official French award for the professional trades, including chefs). A local population in love with eating out supports its dual cuisine styles: the unparalleled Michelin star restaurants and intimate fine dining on one side, and homey cafés, including traditional bouchon-style restaurants, on the other.
DO NOT MISS: Le Garet (7 Rue du Garet, 69001 Lyon) is one of only a handful of authentic bouchon restaurants surviving in the old city. The small restaurant becomes one large family dinner each evening. The menu is miniscule; the portions are generous; each course is delicious and perfectly washed down with Beaujolais served in traditional small jugs. Leave room for the wheel of cheese brought to the table on an ancient wooden board. Prices are relatively low and demand for Le Garet’s few tables is incredibly high.
by Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG, CSW) London may seem a strange choice as a world famous wine city—there are no renowned vineyards surrounding the city and examples of English wine are few and far between. Scratch a little deeper, however, and you see how vital London has been to the development of the modern wine world. Historically, the politics of Britain dictated the wine of the day and, for a time, French claret was king, forever cementing the British association with Bordeaux. War with France meant that the Brits turned to Spain to
Wine style at Hedonism
In addition to its many educational offerings, London remains an epicenter for fine wine auctions, fine wine investment companies, world-class retail establishments, a handful of the world’s most respected and revered wine critics, and a cutting-edge food and wine scene. Wine lovers from around the world flock to London to attend the many festivals and wine shows that seem to run perpetually; London Wine Week and the London International Wine fair are two of the very best.
The Sampler’s enomatic wine dispensers offer dozens of wine choices.
slake their thirst and sales of Sherry boomed. These were fickle times though, and with King Henry VIII’s divorce from Catherine of Aragon, Spain was out and Portugal was in. Port became the tipple of choice in London’s public houses. Britain’s relentless thirst led to a flourishing wine trade that has survived to the present day, and although the Brits are not solely responsible for the rise and fall of wine empires these days, they continue to exert a dominant force in the world of wine. London has established itself as the hub of international wine education, with prestigious programs such as the Wine and Spirit Educational Trust headquartered there. The pinnacle of wine education, the Masters of Wine, an exclusive club with only 319 current members worldwide, also calls London its home.
DO NOT MISS: Adventurous wine lovers shouldn’t pass up a chance to visit Sager + Wilde (193 Hackney Rd, www.sagerandwilde.com/). Offering premium and rare wines by the glass, at retail prices, Sager + Wilde thrills oenophiles and foodies alike, with its small but tasty food menu featuring cured meats and gourmet grilled cheese. However, be sure to leave time for a stop by The Sampler (266 Upper St., www.thesampler. co.uk/), where host Dawn and her sidekick Border Collie Ivy offer over 80 wines in enomatic dispensing machines. Samples are available in three different sizes and price points, allowing wine lovers the opportunity to experience old vintages of some of the world’s rarest wines, at prices that even the most frugal among us can appreciate. It is an experience that quite simply cannot be missed.
PLEASE JOIN US FOR OUR FINE WRITING NIGHT Thursday, October 23rd from 5:00-9:00 p.m. · New to our Pen Bar we are excited to introduce Noodler’s Ink with over 30 shades of ink. Colors include The Blue Ghost, Widow Maker and HellFire. · Michael Pons of Lamy Canada will be on hand to present and preview exclusive collector pens. · Scotch, wine and discounts will all be served! (we hope one of these will entice you to stop by!) Brought to you by:
1 7 5 m cd e r m o t a ve . · 9 4 3 . 1 0 6 8 · w w w. u n l u g g a g e . co m
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The Long Game:
an interview with Will Predhomme Interview by Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS) Will Predhomme is on quite a hot streak. It started in 2012, when Will was awarded the GE Monogram Terroir Award for Excellence in Hospitality by his peers. That same year, he was a finalist in Inniskillin’s Best Sommelier in Canada and took second place in the 2012 Association de la Sommelerie Internationale’s (ASI) Best Sommelier of the Americas. Will represented Team Canada at the Best Sommelier of the World Competition in Tokyo, Japan in 2013. Did we mention that he was studying for his Master Sommelier certification throughout these career highs? Mike Muirhead had the pleasure of first meeting Will at Pinot Noir Camp in Oregon, and caught up with one of Canada’s busiest Sommeliers.
Mike Muirhead (MM) You have had an incredibly busy couple of years as one of Canada’s top Sommeliers. You are an adjunct professor at University of Guelph in the Hospitality, Food & Tourism Management program, and I understand that you have a number of other exciting projects on the go. Will Predhomme (WP) Well, I have a two year-old son, and I have my own company, Predhomme.ca, which provides insights and solutions in the hospitality, education, and trade sectors of the beverage alcohol business. I work with restaurants, hotels, and trade organizations mostly. The company is an Approved Program Provider (APP) of Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) programming, and I have helped both the University of Guelph and Oliver & Bonacini Restaurant group achieve their APP status with WSET as well. Another project is the North Shore Project, which started off as a very small, whimsical passion project with Jonas Newman and Vicki Samaras from Hinterland Wine Company. I grew up in Windsor, which has a wine region that can grow grapes that are cut off from www.banvilleandjones.com 53
the rest of the Ontario world of production. I wanted to choose something that was indicative of the climate, soil, and location, and I chose Syrah based on a number of criteria. I have connections at Lake Erie North Shore’s Colio Estate vineyard, which is incredibly well managed. We shipped the grapes to Hinterland to be vinified. We have created a Syrah from the one tonne of 2012 North Shore grapes, which we made as naturally as possible. It showed wonderful Syrah characteristics and was sold directly to restaurants and hotels only. It was very much an experiment, but it really worked out well. We have made just a straight dry 2013 rosé in a southern French style, and we have already presold it all to some large restaurant groups and a couple of small guys. We are hoping to take that model and produce Gamay in Niagara, and wines in South Africa and Germany. MM Would I be reading into the end game to suggest that you might like to become a winemaker at the end of this journey? WP I am a Sommelier—I understand the finished product. I don’t claim to be a winemaker, and I wouldn’t be arrogant enough to do so. I would like to know how to make wine. I like to get my hands dirty. I am not the type of person that has only one thing going on. I would like to be able to produce wine and work with the people who really know how to do it. MM You have had an amazing last two years in competitions. You were a finalist in Inniskillin’s Best Sommelier in Canada, the ASI Best Sommelier of the Americas, and you represented Team Canada in Tokyo. What was the biggest challenge in that world competition? WP The last two years have been relatively surreal. I’ve burned really hot and really fast in that period of time, which is really great—and I’d like to do it again— but it is intense. At the international competitions, the language barrier was probably the hardest thing for me. I had to compete in a language that was not my mother tongue—I am not fluent in French, despite my last name. I actually chose to do it in Spanish. To compete in front of some of the best people in the world in another language and another location was very challenging. But when am I ever going to have another opportunity to do this? So I embraced it. And it was super, super cool. However, I put entirely too much pressure on myself. A year and a half ago, when I was doing the competition, I was also doing the Master Sommelier program. And so with doing those two things concurrently—plus learning the language, having a newborn, running a very high-end wine program—there’s no talk in there about having a personal life. It was challenging understanding the scope, and biting off a little more than I could chew. But that’s just how it occurred. It was a crazy, awesome experience.
Will Predhomme with Véronique Rivest at the Best Sommelier of the Americas in Buenos Aires. (Photo by Martin Ayotte, CAPS/ASCP Quebec)
MM And I understand you are taking another run at the Master Sommelier exams? WP I had a moment of clarity and peace on Father’s Day and decided that I am going to go ahead and do it. I passed the service exam last year, and I have two more attempts to pass the other sections [theory and tasting]. So, aside from teaching and Hinterland, my major focus is on the Master Sommelier exam. MM On the industry side, is there a focus on people coming out of hospitality school in order to get higher up in hospitality management? WP I started off as a fry cook at a family restaurant in Windsor at 15. I never went to a hospitality school. They did have schools there, but it’s different now. In the last 10 years, George Brown, Ryerson, Guelph, and Cornell have all developed hospitality hotel management programs, and it’s a growing business. Do you need to do it? Absolutely not. Do you get doors opened and develop skills by going through these programs? Absolutely. But it’s very much up to you if you want to do it. At Guelph, part of the curriculum is wine, but [colleague] Bruce McAdams is working with academics to bring an interesting practicality to the program. It is a long game for me to be able to work with them and build a program from scratch. It has been three years and we are teaching all three WSET levels. It is something that the school is embracing. MM Isn’t it funny that everything in the wine business seems to be a long game? Nothing is immediate gratification.
WP You’ve got to be a glutton for punishment. You’re constantly working. If you want to get rich quick in the industry, it’s going to be really bloody hard to do it, because everyone wants to be a Sidney Frank and create the next Grey Goose. I would rather spend my time doing really cool stuff like working with the university, shaping these kids’ perceptions of wine—these are the people who are going to be leading the industry 10 years from now. MM In Manitoba, we didn’t grow up with a wine region—we don’t have the Okanagan or Niagara. Plus, Canada’s importing laws don’t make it easy to get Canadian wine here at prices you find in their home provinces. Right now, Canada is one of the smallest markets in our store. In your opinion, are Ontarians pushing Ontario winemakers to make quality wine, or are they buying the wine because they want to support Ontario businesses? WP The consumer base in Ontario is almost the opposite of B.C.’s, where there is strong local support. There is still a brand perception that Ontario wine is sub-par quality. And just like everywhere, there are some sub-par wines, but there is also some exceptional stuff. In the wine industry, you can only grow as far as your culture. We are still a very young industry. And a lot of what we get in to the province is commercial-volume production stuff. So where are [Ontario wine producers] learning about great wine? Is it from each other? Is it from experience? Or is it from the great wine regions of the world? And I am going to go in that order there. I don’t want to blanket everyone, because everyone has their own way of doing things, but our culture is growing—which is where I like being. I would rather be here than in a mature market where you are scrambling to reinvent yourself. Here, we are still inventing ourselves.
Rapid fire with Will Predhomme
Sunset Goose Flights at FortWhyte Alive
Interpretive Presentations Open until Dusk, Wednesday – Sunday, September 19 – October 19
Arrive at FortWhyte 30 minutes before sunset to witness this spectacular migration ritual. Learn about the goose migration during our nightly interpretive presentation. Enjoy a BBQ and concessions available on the south deck of the Interpretive Centre. Admission after 5 pm: Adults: $5, Seniors: $4, Children: $3, Carload: $12
Dinner and a Show
Favourite Ontario grape variety: Gamay has the most potential (but I’m biased). Chardonnay has extremely good potential as well, and Cabernet Franc. Those three are bang on.
Reservations available Wednesday – Sunday, September 19 – October 19
Next trend for Ontario wine drinkers: Gamay is up there. Everyone wants it to be Riesling, but I don’t know if it will be. Chardonnay would be great, but a lot of them are expensive right now.
Enjoy spectacular lakeside views of the setting sun and thousands of migrating geese as you dine on a delicious three-course meal prepared by the Buffalo Stone Café.
Best under-the-radar restaurant for lunch in Toronto: Vertical in the First Canadian Place building. It’s authentic Italian, their chef is from the Marche in Italy and they have a killer patio right downtown. The wine list is smaller, but it’s awesome Italian wines at really great prices.
To reserve, call (204) 989-8370 $40/person (includes tax & gratuity)
Favourite wine city: London. You can go to any store and they have enomatic machines with some of the best wines. Favourite wine region: Oh man! In the world? Right now? Today? At this moment? Northern Rhône has always been up there. I am loving Burgundy right now, but I hate to seem like a cliché. Runners up are places that don’t use a lot of oak: Austria, Greece, Portugal. And for good value: South Africa. I love South Africa. What was the last wine you drank? Montagny Premier Cru Blanc from Maison Roche de Bellene, and it was just bang-on awesome.
For Private, Group and Corporate Bookings, please call (204) 989-8353
www.fortwhyte.org/ sunsetgooseflights Sponsored by:
banville & jones
SUMMER SCHOOL SUCCESS Banville & Jones Wine Institute congratulates the participants of its first Summer School for Wine Specialist! For three intensive days (July 11–13), an energetic class completed the full Wine Specialist course material and all components of the WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines and Spirits. The examination was Sunday afternoon, followed by a brief, well-deserved reception. Participants from outside Winnipeg and Manitoba represented almost half the class, and expressed interest in a condensed version of WSET® Level 3 as well. Please contact Banville & Jones Wine Institute (bjwi@banvilleandjones. com) for information on future condensed courses.
LOOKING FORWARD WSET® Spirits New this winter, we will present the WSET® Level 2 Award in Spirits, a specialized program covering spirit types, production methods, tasting evaluation, major brands, and end-use in the market. Each class of a total of seven will focus on a major spirit type and an exam will be held on the eighth week. This course is ideal for those working in a spirits environment (bartenders, sales representatives), those planning on advancing to the Professional Sommelier Program, or those simply with a fascination for spirits. There are no prerequisites, but participants must be over 18 years old.
Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 7 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm, plus a 1.5 hour exam on the 8th week. Course offerings: Starting March 10 (Tuesdays) Cost: $750 plus GST French Wine Scholar Certification Program French Wine Society programs, based solely on the wines of France, are endorsed by Wines of France/French National Wine Office. Compared to our other programs, the French Wine Scholar program is a focussed experience where lesser-known regions such as the Jura and Savoy share the stage with the famous regions such as Bordeaux and Burgundy. Each session includes a regional wine tasting. This program is intended for trade or enthusiasts looking for an in-depth introduction to the wines of
France. Individuals aiming for the Professional Sommelier Program will find this course is an excellent stepping stone to the next level and will alleviate some of the workload during sommelier training. Graduates that earn the French Wine Scholar (FWS) post-nominal designation are eligible for further study for Master Level Certificates (www. FrenchWineSociety.org). There are no prerequisites, but participants must be over 18 years old. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 9 weeks, 6:30 to 9:30 pm, plus a 100 question multiple-choice exam on the 10th week. Course offerings: Starting April 8, 2015 (Wednesdays) Cost: $900 plus GST
PROGRAMS FOR EVERYONE Essentials of Wine Level I Over two evenings, students are guided through wine styles, grape varieties, and wine making; the basics of wine tasting; food and wine pairing; how quality affects price; and more. Classes are held from 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the 2nd floor Tuscan Room at Banville & Jones. Course offerings: January 21 & 28 Cost: $79.99 plus GST Essentials of Wine Workshops These workshops range from regional tastings to food and wine pairings, and everything in between. Whether you are a beginner, a past Wine Basics student thirsty for more, or a food and wine professional wishing to refresh your knowledge, these workshops are for you. Classes are held on Wednesdays from 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the 2nd floor Tuscan Room at Banville & Jones. Prices are per person and do not include GST. Workshop offerings: October 22: Out of the Ordinary: The best grapes you have never heard of – $45 November 5: Argentina: The three regions of Malbec – $45 November 19: The Essentials of Wine and Cheese – $50 January 7: Revolution! Winemakers who break the rules – $60 Legend:
CERTIFICATION PROGRAMS Wine Specialist (No prerequisite: acceptance on a first-come basis) Wine Specialist is an entry-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the worldrenowned WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program includes the WSET® Level 2 Systematic
Approach to Tasting; significant grape varieties; factors that influence wine styles; major wine regions; sparkling, sweet and fortified wines; spirits; food with wine matching; and basic wine service. Wine Specialist is the first of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 8 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm, plus a 1.5 hour exam on the 9th week. Course offerings: Starting January 6, 2015 (Tuesdays) or April 13, 2015 (Mondays) Cost: $695 plus GST Wine Steward (Prerequisites: Wine Specialist; WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits; ISG 1: acceptance on a first-come basis) Wine Steward is an advanced-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the worldrenowned WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes an introduction to beer and intermediate instruction in restaurant wine service. Wine Steward/WSET® Level 3 builds on the topics of Level 2 to create a greater depth of knowledge and experience. Wine Steward is the second of two prerequisites for the BJWICAPS Professional Sommelier Program. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 18 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm Course offering: Starting September 2015 Cost: $1,295 plus GST BJWI Professional Sommelier Program – CAPS Certified (Prerequisites: Wine Steward; or WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits; or ISG 2: acceptance based on individual applications) The PSP is an in-depth, rigorous, and challenging program recognized by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS), a nation member of Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI). The course is built upon six modules: Production Methods, Sensory and Wine Styles, Wines of the Old World, Wines of the New World, Spirits and Other Beverages, and Sommelier Management. Students must also arrange a stage consisting of 60 hours of practical experience under supervision in a restauranthospitality environment. Upon successful completion of coursework, stage, and certification exams, candidates receive the professional Sommelier designation. Course offering: Next dates TBA. Register for all courses at Banville & Jones: 204-948-WINE (9463) or inquire at email@example.com. For full course descriptions, visit banvilleandjones.com and click on Events & Classes.
Luis Filipe Edwards, Argentina (photo: LFE); Gamay Grapes in the Okanagan Valley (photo: Todd Antonation); Bar Bar Black Sheep in Riebeek Kasteel, South Africa (photo: Paul Martens); Chef Smion Reisch of Terrace in the Park, Chef and Sommelier Challenge (photo: Ian McCausland)
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sidebar By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW
The World Through a Wine Glass During the Olympics last year, I was lucky enough to have a Russian experience. Not that I could travel to Sochi— there was no way my schedule or my budget would justify that trek. But I was fortunate to be a guest for an evening of Olympic coverage on a big screen television, accompanied by a well-researched, well-done dinner of Russian cuisine and hearty dark bread. Without access to the local wine, I decided on something that Russians traditionally enjoyed: a few bottles of French bubbly, white and red. It worked. On the way home it occurred to me that I had joined the staycation trend. Face it: there are times when travel to a wine destination is not so easy. Money, family, work, health—all of these can conspire to keep us home instead of jumping on the next flight. Never mind that some people enjoy staying close to home. The staycation concept began during one of the recent dives in the roller coaster of world economics. It involves initiating the vacation mindset in one’s own city, visiting local sights, local restaurants, and ignoring that mobilephone-vibration on the hip or in the purse. But when it comes to dining, some supposed staycation “experts” recommend stress-reducing techniques like take-out or frozen dinners. Many do not even talk about wine. What are they thinking? For a truly wonderful staycation, try the time-honoured food-and-wine tradition of what grows together, goes together. Pick a country: Italy, France, Spain, Germany. Wherever you want to “go.” Read up on its cuisine. Plan one fabulous dinner—you can make a staycation out of a
single evening with friends. Or plan numerous fabulous days, taking every meal as a virtual tourist. Breakfast in style. At lunch, spread a tablecloth, toss a salad, make or buy some authentic bread from your chosen region, and enjoy a tumbler of modest wine from that country with your salad. For dinner, make your experience authentic. There are plenty of grocery stores that offer ingredients for world cuisine. Then bring your recipes to Banville & Jones and ask for some good advice (some of my favourite times at work involve roaming our store to plan a fabulous evening with someone who is holding their menu). Let your wine glass be your guide. Go local on every wine, and take wine with every course. Give yourself a by-theglass pour at each course, and look forward to leftovers tomorrow. Or for a trip in a taxi, the wine staycation can involve a good restaurant that has done the homework for you and matched its cuisine to a good selection of regional wines. An evening out in your city is a fabulous staycation. Wine has the capacity to take us anywhere, because, ultimately, it is an authentic product of a particular corner of the Earth and its people. A good glass of wine brings with it the ancient sunshine on the hills of Tuscany or the wild herbs blooming along the side of the road in the south of France. A good glass transforms a theme dinner into an experience to remember. It is a grown-up way of playing let’s pretend, and it is a beautiful relief from the stresses of everyday life. So here’s to you, seeing the world through my wine glass.
culinary partners 529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez! 529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325
Step into the Atrium of the Assiniboine Park Pavilion and you will find yourself in the warm and inviting atmosphere of Terrace Restaurant. Chef Resch and WOW! Hospitality offer a one-of-a-kind seafood experience to Winnipeg: the very best quality fish and shellfish that have been harvested using sustainable, environmentally friendly methods.
Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 5:30 for dinner. 956 St Mary’s Road 204.254.4681
Fine fare, done right. SMITH is a new culinary experience built on craftsmanship and a dedication to the finer points located in the Inn at the Forks. Celebrate the truth of honest food created from the diversity of the lands and waters of our great country. 75 Forks Market Road 204.922.2445
Unit B - 55 Pavilion Cr 204.938.7275
Across the Board Amici Restaurant Best Western Plus Winnipeg Airport Hotel Blaze Bistro Bombolini Brooklynn’s Bistro Café 22 Café Dario Chew Deer + Almond D-Jay’s Restaurant Diana’s Cucina and Lounge
Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared Old World dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team. 100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700
Located in the heart of downtown Winnipeg, 295 York is a modern seafood and steakhouse. The lunch menu boasts unique, contemporary takes on classic steakhouse fare, and dinner focuses on prime cuts of beef and fresh seafood. Chef Jesse Friesen and his team work with the freshest ingredients and smoke all of their own meat in-house. Offering daily features and live music in the lounge. 295 York St 204.896.7275
Elements Elkhorn Resort Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Enoteca Era Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights Food Evolution Horfrost Hotel Fort Garry and Ten Spa Hy’s Steakhouse Jane’s Restaurant and Red River College Joey Kenaston
Joey Polo Park Joey’s Only Seafood Los Chicos Restaurante Y Cantina Mano a Mano/Teo’s Market Burger Mere Hotel Olive Garden Italian Restaurant Pizzeria Gusto Rembrandt’s Bistro Sabai Thai Segovia
South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club Swiss Chalet The Velvet Glove at the Fairmont TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant The Victoria Inn Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Wasabi Sabi
shopping list Alias Wines 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, California, USA $19.99...........................................................................................…62 Bacalhôa Vinhos 2000 Moscatel de Setúbal, Setúbal DO, Portugal $32.99.............................................................................62 Bokisch 2013 Albariño Lodi, United States $23.99...............................................................................................................…30 Botter 2013 Oggi Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie IGT, Italy $11.99................................................................…...........................14 Coriole 2013 Chenin Blanc McLaren Vale, Australia $19.99.....................................................................................…...............31 Danzante 2012 Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie IGT, Italy $19.99................................................................................…...............14 Decadent Delights Gift Basket $250.00.....................................................................................…...............................................45 Festive Favourites Gift Basket $130.00.....................................................................................................................................45 Heron Ridge 2009 O-Nine Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch WO, South Africa $19.99..............................................24 Holiday Reds Gift Basket $150.00......................................................................................................................................…....45 innocent bystander 2013 Pinot Rosé Yarra Valley, Australia $23.99........................................................................................31 Joseph Mellot 2013 Destinéa Sauvignon Blanc Val-de-Loire VdP, France $14.99.......................................................................62 Kendall Jackson 2012 Vintner’s Reserve California, United States $18.99...........................................................................….30 La Vis 2013 Dipinti Pinot Grigio Vigneti Delle Dolomiti IGT, Italy $16.99.............................................................................14 Lopez de Haro 2005 Reserva Rioja DOC, Spain $19.99..........................................................................................................62 Quadri 2012 Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie IGT, Italy $12.99.......................................................................................................14 Redwood Creek 2011 Pinot Grigio California, USA $13.99..................................................................................................…14 Savoury Samples Gift Basket $60.00........................................................................................................................................45 Simonsig 2012 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch WO, South Africa $12.99......................................................................................62 Sister Act 2-Bottle Gift Box $45.00...........................................................................................................................................45 Solo Red or Solo White One-Bottle Gift Bag $20.00.............................................................................................….................45 Sweet Treats Gift Basket $60.00..................................................................................................................................…..........45 Terlan 2010 Gewürztraminer Alto Adige DOC, Italy $23.99...............................................................................................…20 Terlan 2011 Gries Riserva Lagrein Alto Adige DOC, Italy $34.99.......................................................................................…20 Terlan 2011 Lunare Gewürztraminer Alto Adige DOC, Italy $55.99....................................................................................…20 Terlan 2011 Montigl Riserva Pinot Noir Alto Adige DOC, Italy $39.99.....................................................................................20 Terlan 2010 Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc Alto Adige DOC, Italy $56.99...........20 Terlan 2011 Quarz Sauvignon Blanc Alto Adige DOC, Italy $59.99.........................................................................................20 Terlan 2012 Pinot Bianco Alto Adige DOC, Italy $21.99.........................................................................................................20 Terlan 2012 Pinot Grigio Alto Adige DOC, Italy $23.99.....................................................................................................14, 20 Terlan 2012 Terlaner Classico Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc Alto Adige DOC, Italy $23.99..............................20 Terlan 2011 Vorberg Pinot Bianco Alto Adige DOC, Italy $37.99...............................................................................................20 Terlan 2011 Winkl Suavignon Blanc Alto Adige DOC, Italy $29.99.........................................................................................20 Wine & Cheese Gift Basket $90.00.............................................................................................................................................45 Zinck 2012 Pinot Gris Alsace AC, France $20.99.....................................................................................................................62
Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of the product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. www.banvilleandjones.com 61
* CUSTOMER PICK *
Alias Wines 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon California, USA $19.99
Simonsig Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch WO, South Africa $12.99
Joseph Mellot 2013 Destinéa Sauvignon Blanc Val-de-Loire VdP, France $14.99
California Sunshine in a glass! A Cabernet that hits all the marks with fresh cassis, plum, and a hint of vanilla. This is a multi-regional blend with a soft and inviting palate that begs for a steak. If you need a steak house recommendation, I have that too!
If you’re in the mood for something unoaked and crisp with beautiful minerality, then this is the wine for you! Notes of pear, tropical fruit, and white peach dance on your palate, balanced by nice acidity with a long finish. A great food pairing for seafood, chicken and lighter dishes … or just on its own to sit back and enjoy.
What could be better? This is a fresh, aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, with a restrained finish that speaks of its Loire home. Bring together a light dinner with fish or seafood, or toss a spinach salad with citrus and feta, a crusty baguette, and enjoy! It comes in an easily recyclable PET bottle— the producer’s commitment to a low carbon footprint!
Lopez de Haro 2005 Reserva Rioja DOC, Spain $19.99
Bacalhôa Vinhos 2000 Moscatel de Setúbal, Setubal DOC Portugal $32.99
Zinck 2012 Pinot Gris Alsace AC, France $20.99
For a slow-cooker Sunday during NFL season, one of my go-to bottles is an aged red with a friendly price tag. 2005 was an excellent vintage in Rioja, and after 20 months in oak and a few extra years in-bottle, this Reserva has mellowed out nicely: with fine, dusty tannins and that signature Spanish spice, a goulash will do just fine, thank you.
Made with muscatel grapes, this wine is fortified with grape spirit and aged for eight years in large oak malt whiskey casks. The result is incredibly complex flavours and aromas of raisin pie, apricots, honey, violets, orange marmalade, hazel nuts, and a hint of sea salt. Serve slightly chilled around 12°C with blue cheese or dark chocolate.
The 2011 Pinot Gris comes through with a lot of citrus on the nose, but as you continue to take it in, you pick up beautiful peach and apricot notes with subtle hints of pepper. Refreshing, floral, and fruity on the palate, this wine is a great every day sipper—and I definitely recommend serving this one with your holiday turkey!
MARIC HOMES 204-339-2035 • marichomes.com
showhomes: bridgwater lakes • south pointe • sage creek • st. boniface • pritchard farm southlands village • falcon lake
The Cellar Door: Issue 19. Great Wine Cities. October 2014 - January 2015.