Page 1

the

Cellar Door Wi ne a n d p o ss i b i l i t i e s b y Ba n v i lle & J o n e s W i n e Co.

P i e r lu i g i Tola i n i

His Life and Legacy

Issue 17 February 2014 – May 2014


The Next Generation BMW X5 X5 xDrive35i BMW The Next All-Wheel Drive xDrive35i Generation BMW X5 xDrive35i

bmw-vancouver.ca Birchwood BMW Birchwood BMW

The Ultimate Driving Experience.® The Ultimate Driving Experience.

2014 X5 xDrive35i shown.

2014 X5 xDrive35i shown.

KEEPS UP WITH ANYTHING. EVEN YOU. Meet the next generation BMW X5, the Sports Activity Vehicle you can push as hard as you push yourself. The straight six-cylinder engine of the X5 xDrive35i delivers maximum performance combined with outstanding efficiency, delivering 300hp, a maximum torque of 300 lb-ft, and acceleration from 0 to 100 km/h in just 6.8 seconds.* Plus, the split rear tailgate helps you load your gear in record time. The SAV that started the segment continues to lead it.

INTRODUCING THE NEXT GENERATION BMW X5. PLAY HARDER.

Birchwood BMW 45-3965 Portage Avenue Tel: 204 452 7799 birchwoodbmw.ca

The all-new 2014 BMW X5 xDrive35i

SELLING PRICE FROM $64,995† NO-CHARGE SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE 4 Years / 80,000 km

††

European model shown. Features and equipment may vary in Canada. †Selling price of a new 2014 BMW X5 xDrive35i All-Wheel Drive starts at $64,955, which includes MSRP ($62,900) and freight and PDI ($2,095). Retailers are free to set individual prices and charge administration fees, which may change the price of the vehicle. Offer is subject to availability and may be cancelled or changed without notice. Certain conditions apply. See your BMW Retailer for details. *Performance figures refer to the BMW X5 xDrive35i SAV with 8-speed automatic transmission. BMW X5 xDrive50i also available. ††New 2014 BMW vehicles purchased from an authorized BMW Retailer in Canada are covered by a No-Charge Scheduled Europeanplan model shown. vary in Certain Canada. †Sellingapply. price See of a your new local 2014BMW BMW X5 xDrive35i All-Wheel Drive starts $64,955, which includes Maintenance for four yearsFeatures or 80,000and km,equipment whichever may comes first. limitations Retailer or bmw.ca for full details. ©2014atBMW Canada Inc. “BMW”, ($62,900) freight and PDIand ($2,095). are free to setimages individual administration fees, which may change the price of the vehicle. Offer the MSRP BMW logo, BMW and model designations all otherRetailers BMW related marks, and prices symbolsand arecharge the exclusive properties and/or trademarks of BMW AG, used under licence. is subject to availability and may be cancelled or changed without notice. Certain conditions apply. See your BMW Retailer for details. *Performance figures refer to the BMW X5 xDrive35i SAV with 8-speed automatic transmission. BMW X5 xDrive50i also available. ††New 2014 BMW vehicles purchased from an authorized BMW


Direct advice. Call (204) 956 2970 or visit us at www.fillmoreriley.com

At Fillmore Riley, we give you direct advice and respond to your matter with prompt, professional service every time.

Decisive. Direct. That’s Fillmore Riley.

Follow us on Twitter @Fillmore_Riley

FILLMORE RILEY LLP

BARRISTERS, SOLICITORS AND TRADEMARK AGENTS


contents Features 26 37

26 Planting Roots: The Life and Legacy of Pierluigi Tolaini Pierluigi Tolaini’s journey from Tuscany to Canada and home again reveals his Italian-Canadian legacy of passion, determination, and hard work.

37 Baptized in Wine: An Interview with Diego Bonato Andrea Eby discusses winemaking and the new Chianti philosophy with Diego Bonato, the general manager of Tolaini Estates.

54

54 Under the Tuscan Sun: The Four Seasons of Tolaini The Banville & Jones Sommeliers weigh in on why Tolaini Estates should be on everyone’s travel bucket list—and the best time to visit.

Cover: Pierluigi Tolaini and his award-winning wines (photo by Joel Ross Studios)

www.banvilleandjones.com 5


REN E W.

EVOLVE. Experience a new level of natural luxury. Riverstone Spa at Inn at the Forks has always been a sophisticated sanctuary in the centre of the city. Now, we’ve undergone a major renovation and offer unparalleled spa services in a serenely stunning environment. Discover the beauty of renewal at Riverstone Spa today.

Purchase gift cards securely online at www.riverstonespa.ca To book an appointment, call 204.944.2444 Monday - Saturday 9-9 Sunday 10-6 75 Forks Market Road, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada R3C 0A2


contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones 14 Ask a Sommelier 22 40

18 Banville & Jones and Co 22 Trending Your friendly neighbourhood Sommelier

25 Behind the Label CĂŠdric Bouchard

31 Chef Profile Barry Saunders, The Current at Inn at the Forks

34 Gary’s Corner Life in the Italian slow lane

40 Gluggy A new guest at your table

42 le tre Tuscan Simplicity

42

48 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 51 Banville & Jones Food & Wine Events 58 Sidebar Does size matter?

60 Culinary Partners 61 Shopping List 62 Top Picks www.banvilleandjones.com 7


the

Cellar Door Publisher and Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com

Unit 3 – 145 Main Street Steinbach, MB R5G 1Y5 Phone: 204-326-6457 Email: info@prairieoils.ca www.prairieoils.ca

freshness, good

and

taste,

goodhealth WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL? Your supermarket brand Olive Oil may have been: • cut with other oils. Some brands will do this to make their olive oil go farther. • left on that shelf for a long time resulting in rancid oil. • refined or bleached (which introduces chemicals into the oil, and decreases its taste and colour).

Graphic Design Shane Garrett | www.STG54.com Ad Design Ryan Germain Advertising Sales Director Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Léo Boiteau, Pauline Boldt, Lorise Clark, Marisa Curatolo, Jan de Vlaming, Andrea Eby, JoAnn Eliuk, Anna Everett, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Paul Loewen, Rebecca Lechman, Ian McCausland, Jay Mitchosky, Tracy McCourt, Saralyn Mehta, Larry Muirhead, Mike Muirhead, Tammy Mosek, Lia Tolaini-Banville, Renée Vincent, Alice Caners Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

AT PRAIRIE OILS & VINEGARS

We believe only Ultra Premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil offers the greatest health benefits and best taste. Ultra Premium means our oils have been certified, lab tested, and sensory evaluated, so we can offer you only the absolute highest grade Extra Virgin Olive Oil available - this is what sets us apart from other olive oil distributors. We are so pleased to be Manitoba’s source for Ultra Premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Balsamic Condimento. Come visit us for a free tasting experience, or contact us today!

For advertising information, please contact vanessa@poisepublications.com.

Banville & Jones Wine Co. is a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. Opened by sisters Tina Jones and Lia Banville in 1999, it is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 www.banvilleandjones.com

Printed in Canada by Transcontinental


Photo by Pauline Boldt

a message from tina jones The Tolaini Factor: Hard work there is no substitute!

Passion your work deserves nothing short of it.

Perseverance holds your course when things get tough.

Determination takes you further than you might have thought possible.

I have known for a long time that there is something very special about my Dad. His solid belief that achieving anything great means starting with a vision. An incredible capacity for hard work. The fearless drive that makes things happen. His belief that things succeed only because people makes them succeed. I watched in admiration as he built the Transx company with that vision, through sheer hard work, and gathering together teams of the best people in the business. When he turned his attention to wine, I knew that something great would come from his next project! That dedication brought Pierluigi to a great place in Tuscany, to build a great team, to consult with Michel Rolland, and to make really delicious wines. In only a few short years, the wines from Tolaini Estates have earned the enviable Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri, and ratings of 90+ from The Wine Advocate, among other accolades. My Dad’s legacy is an inspiration for my own career. Pierluigi Tolaini has taught me to love hard work. He has shown me that hiring the best people and treating them with respect is the way forward. He has helped me understand that promoting education helps everyone! And he has demonstrated that we should never stop trying to improve. Enjoy our tour of Tolaini! Our team explores smart Tuscany tourism in our travel feature, and Andrea Eby talks to Tolaini’s general manager, Diego Bonato. Elsewhere, Sylvia Jansen considers bottle size and Gary Hewitt looks at life in the “Italian slow lane.” Savour every word!

Tina Jones

10 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


30 years of helping your family grow, preserve and manage prosperity.

CONFIDENCE

NATIONAL BANK FINANCIAL IS AN INDIRECT WHOLLY-OWNED SUBSIDIARY OF NATIONAL BANK OF CANADA WHICH IS A PUBLIC COMPANY LISTED ON THE TORONTO STOCK EXCHANGE (NA:TSX). NATIONAL BANK FINANCIAL IS A MEMBER OF THE CANADIAN INVESTOR PROTECTION FUND.


Medigas Manitoba Limited

RESPIRATORY WELLNESS CENTRE

t

t

t

t t

t t t


ask a sommelier Can you recommend food pairings for dry Rieslings? —James McBurney Dear James, Great question! Many wine lovers are familiar with the sweeter side of Riesling but have never had the pleasure of trying a deliciously dry example of this extremely versatile grape variety. Dry Rieslings present a myriad of pairing possibilities, but essentially any dish with which you would normally pair a crisp dry white wine should work equally well when paired with a dry Riesling. Limey Australian examples like Grosset’s Polish Hill Riesling ($48.99) scream out for Asian-inspired flavours such as lemongrass and coriander. Sushi and dry Riesling can also be a match made in heaven. Salads, vegetable dishes, tangy cheeses, and lighter meat courses also work well with a versatile wine like Wittmann’s Trocken Riesling from Germany ($28.99). Or put yourself ahead of the culinary curve and reach for a dry Riesling alongside the up-and-coming cuisine of Scandinavia, resplendent with its simply prepared seafood dishes. One caution: try to avoid pairing dry Rieslings with sweet foods; unlike their off-dry counterparts, dry Rieslings will always come out on the losing end of this equation. —Andrea Eby I am not a huge fan of strong-tasting wine. Could you suggest a wine with a sweet twist to it that would go well with dark chocolate? —Cathy Kenny Wine and chocolate can be a great match if you follow a few guidelines. For dark chocolate, avoid lighter red wines, as they will disappear next to

14 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

the cocoa’s bitterness. Instead, try one with enough flavour to stand its ground while still complementing its sweetness. Also, look for a wine with soft tannins to meld with the chocolate’s velvety texture. The general rule is to look for a wine as sweet or sweeter than your confection. Luckily, dark chocolate isn’t that sweet, so there are many options. Try Dom Brial Immoral ($21.99), which is a Vin Doux Naturel from the South of France. Vin Doux Naturels are lightly fortified wines on the sweeter side, and Immoral has beautiful notes of caramel and dried apricot. Another option is a sweeter style of Sherry such as Hildalgo Morenita Cream Sherry ($13.99), which is lively with pronounced toffee and almond flavours. Also lovely is Hildalgo Pedro Ximinez ($29.99), which is rich and sweet, but still fresh and delicious, perfect for your favourite dark chocolate.

burly side, and serve it ever-so-slightly chilled. Traditionally, red Beaujolais (made from Gamay) and many red Burgundy wines (from Pinot Noir) are nice choices. The Joseph Mellot Destinea Cabernet Franc ($13.99) would also be a great option, as would the innocent bystander Pinot Noir ($23.99). Enjoy! —Sylvia Jansen

—Tracy McCourt What red wine would you recommend for a white wine lover? —Michelle Holigroski Selecting a wine in a style different from a favourite is a challenge! White wine lovers tend to enjoy wines with slightly higher acidity (whites usually have livelier acidity than reds), and often enjoy the cool service temperature as well. Many white wine lovers also say they do not like the drying sensation of red wine tannins. But if the occasion calls for it, or if the white wine lover wants to venture into red territory, there are options! Try a red that is on the light and lively side, rather than on the big and

If you have a question for our Sommeliers, email us at wine@banvilleandjones.com, or find us on Facebook and Twitter @BanvilleJones


It’s time to rethink diesel. With up to 30% better fuel economy than gas* and 15% more energy in every drop of fuel**, Audi TDI® clean diesel engines are not only incredibly efficient but surprisingly powerful as well. Making the intelligent choice has never been so easy. Now available on the A8, A7, A6, Q7 and Q5 models. Contact our Audi Brand Specialists and allow us to amaze you with a test drive today!

670 Century Street 204-788-1100

Winnipeg www.stjamesaudi.com

©2013 Audi Canada. *Based on the estimated fuel consumption rating, determined using Natural Resources’ Canada’s approved criteria and testing methods, for the 2014 Audi A8 NWB 3.0 TDI clean diesel with Tiptronic® automatic transmission of 5.3/100 km (highway) compared to 7.6L/100 km (highway) for the 2014 Audi A8 NWB 3.0 TFSI with Tiptronic® automatic transmission. Actual fuel consumption will vary based on driving conditions, driver habits and vehicle’s additional equipment. **Diesel fuel has 15% higher energy density by volume (approx. 36.9MJ/L compared to 33.7MJ/L). Source: European Automobile Manufacturers’ Association, 2013. “Audi”, “A8”, “A7”, “A6”, “Q7”, “Q5”, “Vorsprung durch Technik”, and the four rings emblem are registered trademarks of Audi AG. “TDI” and “TDI clean diesel” are registered trademarks of Volkswagen AG.

Our wines tell a story about families – their values, their history and the culture of the place they come from.

Please Enjoy Responsibly

Trialto.com

/Trialto-Prairies

@TrialtoAB


The moment your vision has nohas limits. The moment your vision no limits. ZEISSZEISS precision lenses. precision lenses. /// FFASCINATION ASCINATIO // FASCINATION MADE BY ZEISS MADE BY ZEISS

BOOK OPTICAL

www.paulmas.com


banville & jones and company

1

2

3

4

5

6

Friends of Banville & Jones: 1. Alice Burdett, Joan Duesterdiek, Giselle Duesterdiek, Tanya Burdett, and Jasmine Duesterdiek at the BJWICAPS Professional Sommelier Program graduation; 2. Mich Pambrun (left) and family at the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program graduation; 3. Bob, Betty Jane and Jesse Stansel celebrate their new Sommelier graduate Rob Stansel, with fiancĂŠe Brenley Mikolajek; 4. Stan and Helen Kwiatkoski with Professional Sommelier Program graduate Jill Kwiatkoski; 5. The Canadian chefs of Joey Restaurants at Tolaini Estate on their tour of Italy; 6. James Tucci, Sommelier, Moon-Tsai Winery with Tracy McCourt, Napa Valley.

18 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


7

8

9

10

12 13

11 Many of Banville & Jones’s customers made the trip to Tolaini Estates in Tuscany this year: 7. Cathy Eliuk, Nick Eliuk, JoAnn Eliuk, Giulia Pellegrini, Kevin Huber, Deb Caners, Dennis Caners, and Dennis Mushaluk; 8. Michel Rolland with Lia Tolaini-Banville; 9. Michael and Glenna Kay; 10. Randy and Lorise Clark; 11. Larry and Linda Muirhead with winemaker Diego Bonato; 12. Jay and Alyson Mitchosky; 13. Paul Loewen, winemaker Diego Bonato and Dennis Pottage.

www.banvilleandjones.com 19


depth

Add

to your

Discover new heights of flavour in an old-world favourite. Sample the world’s freshest olive oils and rich balsamic vinegars at Frescolio fine oils + vinegars tasting bar.

2-929 Corydon Ave. 204-505-1455

frescolio.ca Open Wednesday through Sunday

• •


How Do I Protect My Wealth? Our Experience Will Show You How. Tax Strategies Retirement Planning Wealth Management Estate Planning

Business Succession Risk Management Philanthropy Investment Review

www.lawtonpartners.ca 10th Floor - 305 Broadway 204.944.1144 1.888.944.1144

A toASt to youR lAteSt SuCCeSS.

Where do you go from here? Celebrating your success is well deserved but in business, it’s never a time to stand still. New opportunities await and bold moves make the difference between one good year and a long-term trend of profit and growth. With the right blend of services, experience and thought leadership, MNP’s business professionals will help position you to seize new opportunities and keep them flowing. Contact Andrew Stibbard, CA, Regional Managing Partner at 204.788.6097 or andrew.stibbard@mnp.ca.


trending By Tracy McCourt, Sommelier (CAPS)

your friendly neighbourhood sommelier Sommeliers have been traditionally seen as pretentious wine snobs who try to push expensive bottles and intimidate customers. This perception is changing, thankfully, and good Sommeliers are working hard to enhance the customer experience and swap the stuffy image for one that is more accessible. Sommeliers are a network of wine geeks devoted to studying the ever-evolving world of wine. One of the most important roles a Sommelier has is wine education, and a good teacher makes people feel at ease and tries to get them excited about the subject. Customers should never be apologetic that they do not know enough about wine or feel they are asking stupid questions. Next to drinking it, talking about wine is a Sommelier’s favourite pastime, so ask away—there are no dumb questions.

fruity, light in colour, flowery? Tell them about wines you have enjoyed in the past. A good Sommelier’s job is figuring out the best wine for you, so trust your instincts and trust theirs. Let’s leave the wine snobs in the past and focus on a future of perfect bottles and great conversations about wine with your new friend, the Sommelier.

What’s in Your Wine Fridge?

Local Sommeliers Share Their Everyday Favourites Christopher Sprague Sommelier (ISG), Wine Director at 529 Wellington Lorgeril 2012 De Pennautier Viognier Pays D’Oc, France $14.99

Most wine buyers dread being asked what price point they are looking for. They fear that suggesting a low price will result in judgement, and leaving it open will result in spending more than they feel comfortable with. Do not base your budget on what you think the Sommelier wants to hear—base it on what you like to drink and what you want to spend. Sommeliers love great bargain wines as much as the next person and have several inexpensive favourites they are happy to tell you about. If you feel like you are being bullied into spending more than you had intended, well, that is just bad service. Stand your ground. Great wines exist at every price point, and a good Sommelier will find one for you.

A great introduction to French wines, this Viognier is both accessible and wine geeky at the same time. Well made and not overly manipulated, this wine has beautiful structure and minerality. A fantastic food wine, this tastes like Viognier should.

The second question customers dread is a description of the kind of wine they are looking for. The pressure is on to be creative: “Ah, I’m looking for something that has hints of freshly turned earth with a smattering of tamarind and wet dog.” Don’t do that to yourself. Zeroing in on those specific details and putting descriptors to them is a learned skill that takes a lot of practice. Do not feel intimidated by the vocabulary— just describe a wine as best you can; is it red or white,

Domaine Felines Jourdan 2012 Picpoul de Pinet, $14.99

22 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Ken Kasper Sommelier (CAPS) and local RESTAURATEUR Scacciadiavoli 2012 Grechetto Dell’Umbria, Italy $16.99 Grechetto is a thick-skinned white grape that is a specialty of Umbria. Ripe pear and apple are the predominant fruits with white floral notes. It has a delicate creamy texture with rounded acidity and finishes with a subtle almondy note. This wine is a perfect accompaniment to seafood—especially the grilled octopus appetizer at Pizzeria Gusto. Kate Wagner Zeke Sommelier (ISG) Certified Specialist of Wine, Certified Wine Educator (SWE), Proprietor of WINE ADVISOR, Brandon, MB This lovely light-bodied white wine, made from 100% picpoul grapes, is crisp and fresh with delicate aromas of white flowers, green apple, citrus, and a hint of minerality. A good food pairing wine–the perfect selection to accompany shrimp, lobster, or pickerel. Jill Kwiatkoski Sommelier (CAPS), Banville & Jones Wine Co. J. Bouchon 2011 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Maule Valley, Chile $14.99 This is Jill’s go-to wine—a perfect pairing with hors d’oeuvres, chicken, and fish dishes. This award-winning Sauvignon Blanc is fresh and crisp with lively acidity, lovely notes of citrus, white peach, and spring flowers, with a slight minerality on the palate.


RBC Dominion Securities Inc.

Jon Holeman & associates Private WealtH management of rBc Dominion securities Telephone: 204-982-2622 Website: www.rbcds.com/jon.holeman

RBC Dominion Securities Inc.* and Royal Bank of Canada are separate corporate entities which are affiliated. *Member-Canadian Investor Protection Fund. RBC Dominion Securities Inc. is a member company of RBC Wealth Management, a business segment of Royal Bank of Canada. ŽRegistered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. Used under licence. Š 2014 RBC Dominion Securities Inc. All rights reserved.


behind the label: Cédric Bouchard By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

Inflorescence 2011 Val Vilaine Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne, $93.99

Roses de Jeanne 2009 La Haute-Lemblé Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne, $159.99

In a world where most Champagne is a blend of many vineyards and vintages, Cédric Bouchard crafts Champagne from single vineyards and single vintages. In a region where almost everyone uses a combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, Roses de Jeanne reminds us that distinctive, lovely Champagnes can legally, and beautifully, be made using Pinot Blanc. And in an industry where most Champagnes are well-known brands, available widely, Bouchard’s Roses de Jeanne Champagnes offer up unique, small-production gems that are snapped up by people in the know. And now there’s a small, not-so-secret stash of Roses de Jeanne at Banville & Jones! The owner and winemaker of Roses de Jeanne is the young visionary Cédric Bouchard, whose family has worked in the Aube—the warmer, more southern Champagne area near the medieval city of Troyes. This land, shaped by ancient limestone and clay soils, is further south than the rest of Champagne. The hilly Côte de Bar is the source of much Pinot Noir for blended, branded Champagnes—but its contribution is largely forgotten in the credits. When Cédric Bouchard started out on his own in 2000, he approached his work with the revolutionary vision that Champagnes can be great wines from single vintages, single vineyards, and single grape varieties—without the

Roses de Jeanne 2009 La Bolorée Blanc de Blancs Champagne, $198.99

Roses de Jeanne 2009 Les Ursules Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne, $432.99 (Magnum)

multi-layer blending so prevalent in the region. He also came with the view that grape growing should be a natural, biodynamic process, and that each Champagne should express the best of the vineyard and the vintage. Bouchard began with just over 1 hectare of vines, and he now farms about 1.5 hectares—about the area of an athletic field with a 400-metre track. While his estate is still tiny, his reputation has expanded tremendously—and not just because of his revolutionary views about Champagne. These are wines of distinctive character, delicacy, and elegance. Tiny quantities of Roses de Jeanne appear on exclusive restaurant lists, through merchants and traders around the world. There are two ranges: the Inflorescence wines are made from vineyards owned by Bouchard’s father, while the Roses de Jeanne wines are made from vineyards Bouchard owns himself. He takes the same approach with all of them, producing Champagne without dosage (added sweetness), allowing the beautiful ripeness of the fruit to shine through. Before they leave the winery, they are individually wrapped in tissue imprinted with the map of the vineyard that gave the fruit. To taste these brilliant wines is to experience a new, unforgettable Champagne. 

www.banvilleandjones.com 25


planting roots:

the life and legacy of Pierluigi Tolaini By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG), CMS, CSW When young Pierluigi Tolaini emigrated from Italy in the late 1950s, what he left behind was not as important as what he brought with him. Carrying a one-way ticket to Canada, and equipped with a gifted imagination, a rare intellect, and a driven work ethic, Tolaini set about to change his history. In doing so he has made history. Pierluigi Tolaini (Louie) loved Tuscany, and he loved the land, but life in post-war Italy was limiting. Tolaini’s vision was to return someday, buy land, and make great wine. It would take almost half a century for him to realize that dream.

Photo courtesy of Tolaini Estates

26 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Tolaini arrived in Canada to begin his career in Manitoba. He learned English, worked up to 20 hours a day, and with some help from his aunt and uncle, purchased a truck to haul water and supplies to the oil fields near Virden. Where others might have seen a hard life, Louie saw opportunity. He had both energy and passion for excellence, and applied them to everything he did.


and returning the topsoil. In time, the vineyards were re-planted with high quality vines, selected specifically for each vineyard site. Louie’s clear vision that a team of great people makes for great achievements led him to Michel Rolland. Tolaini attracted the world-renowned Rolland as a consultant to the estate. Like everyone in the wine world, Louie knew that Michel Rolland’s excellent work included Ornellaia and Masseto. At Louie’s invitation, Rolland travelled to the estate, and on seeing the vineyards, agreed that “this is the land for making great wine.” Rolland accepted the offer to work with Louie, and Tolaini now enjoys the distinction of being one of only a pair of partnerships in Italy that work with Michel Rolland.

Above: The entrance to Tolaini Esates (courtesy of Tolaini Estates); below: Tolaini Estates (photo by Alice Caners)

In the late 1990s Louie returned to his earlier dream of making great wine in Tuscany. After a four-year search for a top Tuscan vineyard, he found vineyards in the prestigious region of Castelnuovo Berardegna in Chianti Classico. When Louie first set foot on the amphitheatre-shaped vineyard at Montebello, he knew he had found the perfect balance of climate, soil, and exposure. Where others had seen a somewhat neglected, haphazard vineyard property, Louie saw the raw materials for excellence. He purchased the properties at Montebello and San Giovanni, and set about re-vitalizing and re-energizing the vineyards and building a great team. The task was enormous, but Louie was more than ready for the challenge. His approach was to bring together the ancient soils, the right vines, and the best people to make great wines. In the vineyards, the soil was completely re-balanced by removing old vines, retaining the high quality Chianti Classico topsoil, then breaking up the subsoil, removing very large rocks,

Together Louie and Michel have developed a team of exceptional oenologists and agronomists. Diego Bonato, (general manager), Francesco Rosi (winemaker) and Davide Xodo (agronomist) form the core of the team at Tolaini Estates. They have all studied abroad, and they bring the invaluable experience of having worked the harvest in wine regions such as New Zealand, France, and Spain. With their international experience they also share the vision and commitment to make the best wines possible. Michel Rolland also worked with Louie on revitalizing the vineyards. Michel’s high respect for vineyard terroir led to their selection of a combination of the traditional Tuscan variety and international varieties for specific sites. The vineyard team now carefully manages plots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Sangiovese. Drip irrigation is used only when absolutely necessary, and green harvests (cutting away a portion of grape bunches during the growing season) are used to pre-select only the healthiest and most promising bunches on each vine. Louie is passionate about what the estate is doing, and he cares about the people. Reflecting on the backbreaking work in the vineyards, Louie designed, built

www.banvilleandjones.com 27


Fresh Air grows

Fresh Ideas

Pierluigi Tolaini with Michel Rolland (Photo by Sandro Michahelles, courtesy of Tolaini Estates)

...add nature to your agenda! With beautiful natural settings, team and leadership building activities, as well as several distinctive rental venues, FortWhyte Alive is the ideal location for corporate events – business meetings, retreats, and client receptions. FortWhyte’s Lakeside Meeting Room, Siobhan Richardson Field Station and cabins, with full amenities and catering services, are available year-round.

Corporate Retreats Team Building Meeting Spaces & Catering

For more information please visit

www.fortwhyte.org/corporate

and patented a track-driven mini-tractor that enables vineyard workers to work while seated, steer with their legs (sitting sideways to the direction of the tractor), and have their hands free to train, prune, and harvest. His innovation has been a valuable measure for the estate, because the vineyard operations of pruning, training, and harvesting are all done by hand to ensure the fruit is of uncompromised quality. Louie has tremendous respect for the land. He travels often to the winery and when he is not there he is on the phone every day with Diego Bonato. He continues to oversee the operations and at the same time is the estate’s greatest ambassador. Since 2011 Tolaini has also been actively working toward conversion to organic viticulture. Starting in 2013, they officially embarked on a three-year certification process and are now working the entire estate 100% organically. For every Tolaini wine only the best quality berries enter the winery: the fruit is pre-selected by harvesters in the vineyard, and enters the winery only after another rigorous hand sorting. The winery itself is also an expression of old and new. Winemakers have access to ultra-modern equipment and top quality French oak fermenters; at the same time, they treat the fruit gently, using gravity rather than harsh pumps. To the existing structure, Louie also added a barrel-aging chai (barrel hall) set into the hill, providing the winery with a cool, constant environment for aging these fine wines. The products of this team effort are nothing short of remarkable. Both Picconero (the top wine of the estate) and Valdisanti have received the coveted Tre Bicchieri from Gambero Rosso. The Wine Advocate, made famous by the venerable Robert Parker, has consistently rated all Tolaini wines highly, reaching almost unheard-of 93+ and 94 scores on the 100-point scale. While pleased with these results, Louie knows the estate has the capacity for even greater wines. He knows the terroir is great; his vineyards are well managed; and he has great confidence in his team. At the entrance gate of Tolaini Estate stands one of the rocks excavated from the vineyard revitalization. The face of the three-metre rock is carved with the Tolaini logo—the ancient Etruscan symbol for the letter “T.” It is a fitting image for the estate, and for its visionary. Pierluigi Tolaini has seen the potential in these ancient sites; he has brought energy and hard work to the land he loves; and in accomplishing all of this, he has made history. 


The Wines of Tolaini Estates Tolaini 2009 Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG Tuscany, Italy The Chianti Classico area is informally divided into sub-regions named after their respective villages. Tolaini Estates is in one of the most prestigious sub-regions of Chianti Classico, known as Castelnuova Berardenga. Renowned for its ability to bring Sangiovese to full ripeness yet retain power and elegance, it has been called the Pauillac of Chianti Classico. Bestowed with this spectacular terroir, the team of oenologists at Tolaini could not resist the desire to create a 100% Sangiovese wine that would translate the terroir of their vineyards into liquid form. In 2008, they achieved their goal and bottled their first 100% Sangiovese wine. The 2009 displays notes of cherry, tobacco, leather, licorice, and spice, which are echoed in the wine’s complex palate. As with any world-class Sangiovese, fabulous acidity is balanced by elegant, dusty tannins. A powerhouse of elegance and complexity, this wine is destined for greatness.

Tolaini 2009 Al Passo IGT Tuscany, Italy The ancient hilltop pass that overlooks the world-class Montebello vineyard and offers views of the medieval city of Siena also lends its name to one of Tolaini’s most popular wines. Al Passo is a wine born of tradition and innovation, a theme that defines the philosophy of Tolaini Estates. A blend of 85% Sangiovese, the traditional red grape of Tuscany, and 15% Merlot, this wine seduces with deliciously ripe fruit that appeals to lovers of New World wines, while remaining true to its roots and delivering authentic Tuscan flavours. Classic Sangiovese aromas of cherry, plum, and herbs are complemented by smoke and spice notes that develop as the wine matures in French oak barriques. Sangiovese’s trademark high acidity is rounded nicely through the addition of lush Merlot, making this wine one of the most versatile food-pairing candidates around. If you have never had an Italian wine then Al Passo is the perfect place to start!

Tolaini 2008 Valdisanti IGT Tuscany, Italy Modelled after the great Super Tuscan wines, Valdisanti is one of the most highly awarded wines in the Tolaini portfolio. The 2008 vintage was awarded Tre Bicchieri by Gambero Rosso, proclaiming it as one of the best wines in Italy! The Cabernet Sauvignon fruit for this wine comes from the San Giovanni vineyard, which features an ancient church on its border. This church is home to a sixteenth century painting depicting two saints offering gifts to the Madonna. This historic work by Rutilio Manetti was the inspiration for the Valdisanti label. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc, this wine may offer the most familiar flavour to those devoted to Napa Cabernet. Black cherry, cassis, plum, and notes of espresso and spice give Valdisanti layer upon layer of complexity and concentration. Dark and delicious now, Valdisanti is sure to emerge even more beguiling after a few years in your cellar.

Tolaini 2009 Picconero IGT Tuscany, Italy Picconero is the only wine in the Tolaini portfolio that is comprised entirely of international grape varieties and modelled after the great wines of Bordeaux. As a testament to the supreme quality of this wine, Picconero has been awarded the coveted Tre Bicchieri rating and bested some of the world’s most renowned wines in blind tasting competitions, beating out famous names like Ornellaia Masseto and Chateau Cheval Blanc. Crafted of 65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, Picconero’s finely grained, dusty tannins lend structure and balance to concentrated flavours of plum, berry, spice, and vanilla. A quick decant will help showcase the wine’s full spectrum of flavours and it will prove even more enjoyable when paired with a substantial meal. Don’t be fooled by its immediate approachability though; this wine is built to stand the test of time and will reward patient cellaring. www.banvilleandjones.com 29


We will help you look as good as you feel.

We will help you

look as good as

you feel Procedures include: • Body-Jet Liposuction; Gentler Treatment • Ultherapy; Non-Invasive Treatment • Facelift • Forehead Lift • Eyelid Surgery • Nose Surgery • Breast Augmentation • Breast Lift • Body Sculpturing • Tumescent Liposuction • Tummy Tuck • Laser Resurfacing • Botox • Injectables • Skin Rejuvenation Dr. Ken Murray, MD, FRCSC, FACS (204) 944-9982 Ext. 234 kamoffice@plasticsurgeryassociates.ca Dr. Balbir Singh, MD, FRCSC, FACS (204) 944-9982 Ext. 222 gbsoffice@plasticsurgeryassociates.ca

PlAStiC SuRgeRy ASSoCiAteS 240-444 St. Mary Avenue Winnipeg, MB R3C 3T1 www.plasticsurgeryassociates.ca

Financing Available


chef profile

Barry Saunders, The Current at Inn at the Forks Favourite dish on The Current menu: The dish I feel best exemplifies the warmth, comfort and elegance we strive for at The Current would be our panroasted half chicken compressed under a brick. I love a modern approach to classic simplicity. The dish reminds me of the scene in the movie Ratatouille wherein the critic tastes the offering prepared by Remy and is transported to a distant loving moment of his childhood eating at his mother’s dinner table. Favourite wine: Masi 2006 Costasera Amarone Classico Valpollicella, Italy Favourite cookbook: For its life-altering impact, The French Laundry by Thomas Keller. Most recently, I have been enjoying Eleven Madison Park by Daniel Humm.

Chef Barry Saunders’ career shows a measured path through some of Winnipeg’s most memorable and popular restaurants—including Medicine Rock Café, The Sandpiper, Prairie Oyster Café, Pasta la Vista, Breadworks, and Green Gates—before making the move to Executive Chef at The Current Restaurant at Inn at the Forks in 2004. Barry will face a new challenge in the coming year. In September 2013, Inn at the Forks inked a deal that will see Barry take on Executive Chef responsibilities for the new restaurant at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights—a 70-seat restaurant with an additional 100-seat summertime patio. Between nurturing the clientele that are already loyal to Barry’s unique style of elegant comfort food at The Current and taking on the restaurant and catering at the museum, Barry undeniably influences the local foodie scene, and he is the perfect culinary ambassador to the many tourists that flow through the Forks each year. The secret ingredient in your fridge: We came across a Sea Buckthorn puree recently and have been exploring this wonderfully flavourful super food in several dishes over the past few months. Favourite food trend: I believe a greater awareness of our environment and how we as food producers affect our environment has become and will continue to become increasingly prevalent. This is maybe not so much a trend but a necessary direction. I also put increasing emphasis on nutritional value and healthier alternatives when I make my selections.

The most famous person you have ever served: I remember Kiefer Sutherland shut down the Prairie Oyster Café one night with his entourage. That was an interesting night! We recently entertained George Takai and Commander Chris Hadfield at the Current Restaurant for several meals. First meal you remember that made you interested in food: My Amma was a tremendous cook and she used to make these traditional Icelandic desserts known as ponnukaka. It was a sweet crepe sprinkled with brown sugar and cinnamon then rolled up. Favourite place to eat on your day off: At home, I BBQ most days all year long. I have recently had amazing experiences at both the Peasant Cookery as well as Yujiro and Mise. There are many wonderful restaurants in Winnipeg and I try to get around to as many as I can. Guilty pleasure: Macaroni and cheese or anything salty caramel. 


gary’s corner By Gary Hewitt, MSc, CWE, SGD, AIWS

Photo by Paul Martens

Food Movement and the food and wine magazine Gambero Rosso.

Life in the Italian Slow Lane Twenty-two years ago, I sat on the floor of Duthie Books in Vancouver with a raft of Italian cookbooks strewn about me. I wanted a real Italian cookbook but did not have a lot to spend. Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking spoke to me, kept me lingering, but it seemed expensive. I took my time, got to know the book right there in the bookstore, but did not commit. I came back a week later to see if it was love or infatuation. Marcella left with me that day and we have been together ever since. Marcella gives no cook-it-quick recipes or pretty pictures, just straightforward descriptions, traditional cooking methods, and lots of tips on choosing quality ingredients and how to judge cooking progress. To follow Marcella is to plan your day around making chicken cacciatora, osso bucco, or pizza dough. Little did I know that I was in synchrony with the times. In Italy, change was afoot. In the 1970s, a group of young revolutionaries working for a political publication called il manifesto formed a social club on the basis that food and wine are essential for a successful revolution. By the early 1990s, their efforts had blossomed into the Slow

34 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Slow Food formed as a backlash against fast food—McDonalds in particular—out of concern that traditional foods would be cast aside. Slow Food celebrates traditional foods and culinary traditions. It promotes sustainable production by local small businesses, and agricultural diversity is crucial. Support is provided to seed banks and to programs for preservation of heirloom varieties, and their Ark of Taste project catalogues endangered heritage foods, linking each to a distinct eco-region. Essentially, Slow Food wants you to care about what you eat and, importantly, take the time to source and prepare it conscientiously. Slow Food ethics obviously tapped into a worldwide sentiment as today there are more than 150 nation chapters. From its inception, Gambero Rosso promoted slow food. The publication first appeared as a little supplement to il manifesto and was named for the tavern in Pinocchio where the Fox and Cat dine (or is the name a reflection of the political leanings of the publisher and the small size of the supplement?). Today, Gambero Rosso is Italy’s most influential monthly food and wine magazine, a book publisher, and a television network. Gambero Rosso treats wine in much the same way as food: that is, regionally. Just as Italy has no single cuisine but is an amalgam of regional cuisines, wine is equally so. Not only must great wine express its grape, be superbly balanced and fault free, it must also speak of its origin. In other words, wine quality is highly dependent upon being true

to its roots. (This Italian perspective is echoed by Italy’s “other” esteemed wine critic, Luca Moroni. Almost charmingly, Luca judges wines based on their “pleasantness,” which seems naïve until the machinations of his tasting method are revealed.) The pinnacle of recognition by Gambero Rosso is achieving the iconic Tre Bicchieri (three glasses), a designation bestowed on a relative handful of “extraordinary” wines chosen from the thousands evaluated each year. Two glasses denote excellence and one glass flags aboveaverage wines. Gambero Rosso’s annual wine guide, Vini d’Italia, proudly declares that no average or lesser wines are described within its covers. (We proudly declare that Tolaini Estate achieved Tre Bicchieri with their 2008 Valdisanti and 2009 Picconero!) Perhaps not surprisingly, politics and commerce caused Slow Food and Gambero Rosso to part ways in 2010. Almost immediately, Slow Food published Slow Wine a work more in line with their views on sustainability and heritage. Wine selections are presented with greater emphasis on the people behind the labels and their philosophy of wine production. The aim is to strengthen the perception of the wine with its place of origin. Differences aside, Marcella, Slow Food, Gambero Rosso, and Luca Moroni share a passion for authenticity. Each beseeches us to care not only about our food and wine selections but also about the philosophy of their production. Consider taking the time to think about it: surely this is more than just an Italian perspective. 


The Future of Tradition

GenuwineCellars The World Leader in Custom Wine Cellars since 1995 Visit our local showroom at 343 Gunn Road

www.GenuwineCellars.com

204.668.8101


Photo by Pauline Boldt

Baptized in Wine:

an interview with Diego Bonato Interview by Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG, CSW) Having grown up at his family’s winery in the Colli Euganei region of Veneto, Diego Bonato has been immersed in the world of wine since childhood. After receiving his oenology degree from the University of Padova, he travelled through Veneto and Tuscany, then to New Zealand and Australia, working the harvests and gaining experience in the vineyards. He first worked a harvest at Tolaini Estates in 2006, and returned in 2008 as the technical director in charge of the vineyards and winery. Now general manager of the winery, Bonato discusses the “new Chianti philosophy” that is slowly emerging from the historic Chianti Classico region.

Andrea Eby (AE) You have contributed invaluable skill and experience to the success of the Tolaini Estates wines. We want to know more about the man behind the scenes of Tolaini Estates. Diego Bonato (DB) I am only one man, Andrea! I have a great team that works hard everyday to make better and better wines. AE You have managed to assemble a fantastic team, I am sure your experiences have contributed to that success. You come from a family of winemakers, and I remember you telling me a story about falling into a vat of wine when you were young—is that when you began your career as a winemaker? DB That’s right! I was really young and that was the baptism! I was waiting for the school bus. I’m not even sure how old I was, maybe six or seven—and my backpack was probably bigger than me! My brother pushed me for some reason and I fell backwards into a vat of red wine that my uncle was filtering. I remember my mom coming for me, changing my clothes and bringing me to school! www.banvilleandjones.com 37


AE Talk about an initiation! When did you know that you wanted to become a winemaker? DB I was in my third year of a five-year secondary program when I realized that I was not interested in what I was studying. I began to feel more and more passionate about wine and I wanted to know more about wine. I was also working in a restaurant at the time and I began to become very curious about how one wine would be so much better than another one.

DB We were able to convince Mr. Tolaini that we can make a great Sangiovese here. I really believe that if we are in Chianti Classico, which has been known for centuries for its Sangiovese, we must be able to produce a super Sangiovese wine! If we can’t do this with a pure Sangiovese, then I think we have some problems. This area of Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga, is one of the few places in the world where Sangiovese ripens perfectly and we have one of the best expressions of fruit, power, and minerality.

AE Look where your curiosity has gotten you! Tolaini is much larger than your family’s winery—what is it like being the person in charge?

AE What are your thoughts on the new Chianti Classico Gran Selezione category, which has recently been approved by the Chianti Classico Consortium?

DB It has been a good opportunity, you know, starting from zero, changing all the staff. I knew a little bit about winemaking and viticulture, but not really much about how to manage a business and manage people. It has been a great experience and I have to thank Mr. Tolaini for giving me this opportunity, because it is not easy.

DB I personally think that it is one thing that we don’t need; I voted against it. The average consumer does not understand the difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico, never mind the difference between Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva and now the Gran Selezione category! I know the rules and there is not a huge difference between Gran Riserva and Gran Selezione. Officially, Gran Selezione wines can only be made from grapes that you have grown (not purchased grapes). They have also stipulated an aging requirement of 30 months—but those things don’t necessarily make high quality wines! AE I agree—just because a producer grows their own grapes doesn’t mean that they are great grapes and just because you age wine for a long time doesn’t make it better wine, especially if you haven’t used the best quality grapes. DB Absolutely! There are some great producers. I especially admire the wines of Fontodi, San Guisto Rentannano, especially their Chianti Classico. And also Monte Bernardi—I like their style very much.

Tina Jones and Diego Bonato at Tolaini Estates, Tuscany (Photo by Pauline Boldt)

AE Of the four wines produced on the estate, which is your favourite? DB I will not answer. Journalists are always asking this question to colleagues and everyone says that they can’t answer because it is like asking a mom which is her favourite son. I’m not that romantic and I believe that every mother has a favourite son, but I’m still not telling you! AE All right I won’t pressure you for an answer! In 2008, Tolaini created their first vintage of Chianti Classico. Until this point, your production had focused on more internationally styled wines. Why did you choose to make this traditional wine? 38 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

AE There has been talk of implementing some sort of cru system in Chianti Classico, similar to the way that Burgundy is divided into crus based on terroir. Is this something that you see value in? DB Yes, I think that the soil has the potential to support this classification. You can feel the difference between Panzano, Greve, Castelnuova Berardenga—the grapes are really different, the elevations and exposures are different and you can really feel the differences in the wines. There is for sure a potential for this system, but I am sure that Chianti Classico is not ready for this system! AE Mr. Tolaini’s commitment to excellence has provided you the opportunity to work with worldfamous wine consultant Michel Rolland. How has that experience influenced your winemaking philosophy?


DB Working with Michel Rolland taught me one very important thing, which is if you want to improve your wine you must improve the quality of the grapes. You realize how little you can do to improve the wines once the grapes are in the winery or the cellar; but to really improve you need to understand your vineyards. AE That is probably doubly true in challenging vintages, such as 2013. What is your take on the recent vintage? DB Quality was very good, but quantity was down. Currently our total production is approximately 250,000 bottles but we would like to slowly grow to 300,000 bottles. This year we lost a little of our production because this was the year that we fully converted to organic viticulture. This was probably the worst year in the last 20 years to make the conversion— or maybe the best year if you think that we learned so much in this first year.

DB We decided to convert because we believe that it is a unique way to improve our wines. Organic viticulture brings life and richness to the soil, which improves the balance between the soil and the vines and the vines and the environment. More balanced vines produce richer grapes and result is vines that are better equipped to handle any kind of stress that nature can throw at them, for example lack of water and hot temperatures. We also feel that by improving the balance in our soils, vines and vineyards, our wines will begin to show a clearer reflection of our unique territory. AE That transition is a great accomplishment—but what accomplishment are you most proud of at Tolaini so far? DB We are proud to be among the top 30 wineries in Tuscany—but we are not proud enough to stop working! When we are the number one winery in Italy, then we will be proud. 

AE Why did you and your team decide to undertake the formidable task of converting all of the Tolaini vineyards to organic viticulture?

INNOVATION. INDEPENDENCE. INTEGRITY.

We K now BE NE F ITS ™ GROU P BENEFI T S

G R O U P R E T I R E ME N T

INDIVIDUAL INSURANCE

For more than 30 years, Belton Boisselle have been working with some of Western Canada’s most successful employers to maximize the value of their group employee benefit and retirement programs. With simple, effective communication, we develop innovative plans, build in transparency and adapt our services to your company’s own unique culture. Contact Kasey Boisselle or Roger Belton to book a confidential review of your plans. We have moved effective February 1st 1620 – 155 Carlton Street, Winnipeg, MB R3C 3H8 Phone: 204.956.9860

WWW.BELTONBOISSELLE.COM


gluggy by Tracy McCourt, Sommelier (CAPS)

a new guest at your table There are somewhere between 5,000 and 10,000 different wine grape varieties out there, but only about 150 of them are important in the modern wine market. Of that 150, a much smaller group of nine “International” varieties—with familiar names like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay—make up most people’s list of familiar favourites. When it is time to leave the comfort zone of “go-to” wines, venture into foreign territory and try some unfamiliar grapes that are real stars in other markets. Chenin Blanc is no stranger to the spotlight. In its spiritual home of France’s Loire Valley, Chenin shows off its versatility in a roster of different expressions: sparkling wines, dry white wines with pronounced minerality, and beautifully honeyed sweet wines. Since Chenin Blanc is easy to grow in many different climates, however, we can look elsewhere to find more approachable, less expensive expressions of the grape. The best place to go is South Africa. Chenin has had great success in South Africa (where it is locally known as Steen) and is the most widely planted grape in the country. Round in the mouth and bursting with tropical fruit and bracing acidity, South African Chenin is a refreshing treat. A great example is Simonsig 2012 Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch ($12.99), which is fantastic on its own or as an accompaniment to seafood. We do not even need to leave South Africa to find our next candidate, Pinotage. This bad boy is South Africa’s signature grape variety, a cross between Pinot Noir and Hermitage (the South African name for Cinsault). First bred in 1925 at Stellenbosch University, there is nothing else quite like it. At its best, Pinotage is a deep red wine with a decidedly rustic quality, lots of earth and mulberry on the nose, and smoky cherry and serious tannins on

40 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

The Simonsig vineyards in Stellenbosch, South Africa (Photo courtesy of Simonsig)

the palate. A great food wine, Pinotage is a must for BBQs. Bon Cap Wines 2011 The Ruins Pinotage from Robertson ($15.99) is an elegant example of how great wine from this grape can be. Wandering through Argentina, the name Bonarda sticks out like a sore thumb in a sea of Malbec—but you have to remember that it was not so long ago that Malbec was the stranger on our shelves. Bonarda is the second most planted grape in Argentina, and makes ripe, perfumed, plummy wines with soft tannins and deep colour. A great example is Zuccardi Wines 2011 Serie A Bonarda from Mendoza ($16.99). Another option at an even more reasonable $11.99 is the Argento Wine Co. 2012 Bonarda, also from Mendoza. The South of France is the place for new wines at great prices, and the wines from Picpoul de Pinet may be the find of them all. Picpoul (“lipstinger” in French) Blanc makes fresh and delicious white wines with high acidity. They are great sippers on their own or as an accompaniment to lighter fare. Fresh lime juice and zest on the palate are typical for wines made from this variety and Domaine Felines Jourdan 2012 Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc ($14.99) does not disappoint. Take one of these hidden gems home and give it a try; make it feel welcome at your table. Maybe your new go-to is just an unfamiliar name away. 


California in every sip.

The sunshine does its part. Then we do ours. Welcome to California’s Central Coast – home of Sterling Vintner’s Collection.

STERLING pure California Please Drink resPonsibly © 2014 Diageo Canada Inc.


Tuscan Simplicity Tuscan cuisine is more than simply delicious. It is simplicity, generosity, and nourishment. The region of Tuscany is known as the orchard and vegetable garden of Italy. Tuscans have also been able to draw inspiration from northern and southern reaches of Italy with ease: they combine their own produce, game, and meats with rich, dairy-based ingredients and cornmeal from northern cuisines, and the pastas and bounty of lemon dishes from the south and the islands. Tuscan chefs prize local ingredients, from herbs and spices to game, beef, and pork, and of course, their own flavourful olive oils. A Tuscan dinner, like in many other parts of Italy, offers several courses. Pasta is almost always a starter course. The main course typically offers up meat, game or fish, often grilled simply with fresh herbs, garlic, and accompaniments. Dessert might be fruit; it might be cake; and it might be a cake that showcases fruit.

Wine by Tina Jones | Recipes by Marisa Curatolo | Photography by Pauline Boldt


Pasta with Fresh Tomatoes and Pancetta Serves 4 1/2 lb 3 oz 2 tbsp 2 3 cups 1/4 cup 1/2 cup

dried gigli toscani or penne pasta thick pancetta, diced unsalted butter cloves garlic, minced chopped vine-ripened tomatoes heavy cream fresh basil leaves

coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste freshly grated parmesan cheese, to taste

In a large pot of salted water, cook pasta until tender but firm to the bite, about 6 to 8 minutes. Drain. Cook pancetta in large skillet over medium heat until crispy, about 5 minutes. Add butter, garlic, and tomatoes; cook for 5 to 7 minutes. Add cream and bring to boil; reduce to simmer and cook 7 to 9 minutes until sauce is slightly thickened. Add pasta and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add fresh basil and season with salt and pepper; toss well. Divide between 4 plates and sprinkle with parmesan cheese, if desired.

Pair with: Red: Lamborghini 2008 Trescone, IGT Umbria, Italy $28.99 White: Donnafugata 2012 AnthĂŹlia Catterato, DOP Sicily, Italy $19.99 www.banvilleandjones.com 43


FIG GLAZED PORK ROAST Serves 8 4 lb 1 3/4 cup 8 2 2 2 tbsp

boneless centre cut pork loin fresh sprig rosemary fig preserve, plus more to serve cipollini onions anjou pears, quartered lengthwise heads garlic, top trimmed ¼-inch extra virgin olive oil

coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to season

Preheat oven to 450°F. Trim pork of excess fat; place rosemary sprig on top of roast and tie with kitchen string at even intervals. Season pork roast with salt and pepper and brush with fig preserve. Place roast, rosemary side up, in shallow roasting pan; roast 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F arrange onions, pears, and garlic (cut side up) around roast; drizzle with olive oil. Cook 1½ to 2 hours, or until meat thermometer reads 155°F. Transfer roast to cutting board and tent with foil. Let rest 15 minutes before slicing. Discard string; slice into thick slices. Transfer onions, pears, and garlic to serving platter. Serve with pork, rosemary, and additional fig preserve.

Pair with: Red: Fèlsina 2009 Berardegna DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $34.99 White: Terlan 2010 Vorberg Pinot Bianco Riserva, DOC Alto Adige, Italy $32.99

44 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


Cornmeal Cake with Candied Lemons Serves 10 1 3/4 cups 1/2 cup 1/2 tsp 1/2 tsp 2 1 cup 1/2 cup 2 tbsp 1/4 cup 1 tbsp

all-purpose flour fine cornmeal baking soda salt large eggs sugar extra virgin olive oil grated lemon zest fresh lemon juice pure vanilla extract

powdered sugar, to dust Preheat oven to 325째F. Line a 9-inch spring form pan with parchment paper and set aside. Sift together flour, cornmeal, baking soda, and salt. Beat eggs with sugar at medium speed until thick and frothy, about 3 minutes. Add olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, and vanilla. Gently fold in dry ingredients until just blended. Scrape batter into prepared pan and bake for 45 to 50 minutes or until the center springs back when lightly pressed. Let cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Remove sides and let cake cool completely. Dust cake top with powdered sugar and arrange candied lemons over top.

To make the candied lemons large lemon cup sugar cup water

1 3/4 1

Cut lemon into 8 thin slices. Discard the seeds. Bring sugar and water to a boil in a medium skillet, stirring to dissolve sugar. When liquid is clear and bubbling, reduce heat to medium-low. Add lemon slices, arranging them in a single layer, and simmer (do not let boil) until rinds are translucent, about 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer lemons to a baking sheet lined with parchment. Let cool completely.

Pair with: Donnafugata 2012 Kabir Moscato di Pantelleria DOP Sicily Italy, $22.99

www.banvilleandjones.com 45


CAFE SAVOUR

Follow Us!

PHYSIOTHERAPY • Sports Injury Rehab • WCB & MPI Related Injuries • Pre & Post Surgical Rehab • Custom Orthotics • Acupuncture • Repetitive Strain Injuries

ELITE SPORTS

• Neck & Back Pain • Reconditioning Programs • Core Stabilization Programs

MASSAGE THERAPY

CALL US TODAY TO BOOK YOUR APPOINTMENT! Assiniboine 7-2727 Portage Ave. Winnipeg, MB R3J 0R2 (204) 926-2217

The Rink 91 Lowson Cres. Winnipeg, MB R3P 0T3 (204) 926-2242

Downtown 394 Graham Ave. Winnipeg, MB R3C 0L4 (204) 926-2240

Physiotherapy | Occupational Therapy | Massage Therapy | Nutrition Counselling

St.Vital 14-160 Meadowood Dr. Winnipeg, MB R2M 5L6 (204) 888-3548

www.physiowinnipeg.com


DR. BRUCE McFARLANE

Where your smile journey begins

At VILLAGE ORTHOdontics, we not only love life – we love all the personalities and characters that we get to know over the years.

For us, orthodontic care is more than just placing braces and straightening teeth – it’s about connecting with our patients on a personal level to create a unique and positive orthodontic experience. Feel the difference of expert Orthodontic care 3 No referrals necessary 3 Email appointment reminders 3 Invisalign® and Lingual Braces 3 Over 20 years of experience DR. BRUCE McFARLANE

2-1190 Taylor Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3M 3Z4 204-947-1825 | Villageortho.ca


banville & jones

wine institute Graduates of the 2013 Banville & Jones Professional Sommelier Program

Photos by Mike Muirhead Graduates: Rob Stansel, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mich Pambrun, Dr Ken Kasper, Tracy McCourt, Giselle Duesterdiek, Sean Dolenuk. Front row: Andrea Eby (instructor), Elsa Macdonald (Vice-President, Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS) National), Gary Hewitt (instructor), Sylvia Jansen (instructor).

A New Generation of Sommeliers “After my first Basics class at Banville & Jones, I knew I would carry through right to the end.”

special: “The inspiring, motivating, and incredibly knowledgeable teaching staff at Banville & Jones are truly industry leaders, and have so many experiences to share.”

Aside from the people, the graduates of the Canadian Recent Sommelier graduate Tracy McCourt’s confession Association of Professional Sommeliers program were demonstrates the passion that is cultivated in the classes awestruck by the sheer amount of knowledge they offered by Banville & Jones Wine Institute—and it also were exposed to in the 8-month course. Jill Kwiatkoski points to the dedication of the describes her graduation as students who make it all the way “conquering” the course. She “We spend all our money through to their diplomas. was drawn to the specifics of on wine—that’s why we always Though the students came from winemaking, wine production, and have the cheapest shoes.” many different backgrounds— how every detail they learned was –Tracy McCourt the restaurant industry, the wine so intimately tied to the next. “The industry, academia, business and course was so specific—we delved even medicine—they found camaraderie in their shared into so many minute details of every step of the process passion for wine. Giselle Duesterdiek admitted that her that the big picture fell into place. We could see how favourite part of the course was being surrounded by every detail led to another, making it a cohesive process.” “like-minded wine geeks.” Mich echoes Jill in describing the scope of the course: In addition to meeting fellow wine nerds, Mich “I have a deeper respect for all the different roles that Pambrun asserted that the instructors made this course so many people play, and how many factors truly affect 48 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


any single bottle of wine. From how small decisions in the vineyard profoundly affect an end result, to how vintages affect wines, to how soil, management and ethos in the winery all play huge roles in the outcome. Not to mention how wine laws and history affect local wine, and how trends in the industry shape it all. I went from thinking I know a little bit about wine to realizing that there will always be so much more to learn.”

“Wine is meant to complement food, people, accomplishments, and achievements. Wine complements life!” —Sean Dolenuk The scope of the course reached beyond learning about wine—it helped the budding Sommeliers apply their knowledge. In addition to learning about the wine industry, Sean Dolenuk explained, “I was really partial to the practical project we were assigned where we had to develop a concept business and provide both a food and wine menu. This is the main reality of the business and I really enjoyed doing something I knew I would be doing again!” For Giselle Duesterdiek, “This course expanded my knowledge to a deeper, wider extent—especially in the business of wine.” Giselle is going to follow her passion all the way around the world! After seeking out the winemaker of Pask Wines, Kate Redburn, at last year’s wine festival—and dealing with much red tape—she has accepted a position learning the production of wine from the ground up at Pask Wines in Hawk’s Bay, New Zealand. All the new Diploma graduates are already on the move, with two finding immediate placements with private wine stores in Winnipeg, one in retail with education and special events responsibilities and the other in charge of licensee accounts. One is heading to Nanaimo, B.C., to take a lead purchasing position with the leading regional retailer. Two kept their private wine store jobs but are expanding their logistics and purchasing responsibilities, respectively. And finally, one leads his restaurant beverage program with increased confidence and has a new restaurant venture on the horizon. For this class of graduates, the Professional Sommelier Program was a life-changing experience. It has opened up opportunities to write, consult, build wine lists, and educate others. Most importantly, it has fed a flame that sparked in each student as they worked their way through the different levels of wine education offered at the Banville & Jones Wine Institute. It has given them the knowledge and confidence to pursue that passion. Mich describes it best: “The world is my grape.” 

Top: Doug Stephen, WOW! Hospitality; Tina Jones, Banville & Jones; Keith Müller, Dean, School of Hospitality and Culinary Arts, Red River College; and Gary Hewitt, Director of the BJWI were on hand to congratulate the new grads. Bottom: Elsa Macdonald (R), representing CAPS Canada, awards Sean Dolenuk (L) his Sommelier’s pin, with instructors Sylvia Jansen and Andrea Eby looking on.

Sommelier Favourites Giselle: Xavier Monnot 2011 Les Chevalières Meursault Burgundy, France $68.99 Jill: Ventisquero 2011 Grey Label Carménère Maipo Valley, Chile $22.99 Ken: Terlan 2011 Quarz Sauvignon Blanc Trentino/Alto Adige, Italy $53.99 Mich: Radio-Coteau 2008 Le Neblina Pinot Noir Sonoma, USA $87.99 Rob: Lingenfelder 2011 Spätlese Grauburgunder, Germany $26.99 Sean: Caliza 2008 Syrah Paso Robles, California $85.99 Tracy: Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2009 Rosso di Montalcino, Italy $29.99 www.banvilleandjones.com 49


banville & jones

wine institute

WINE APPRECIATION Wine Basics, Level 1

Beyond Basics, Level 2

Two evenings focus on: tasting wines from major grape varieties, putting words to wine tastes, discovering how quality affects price, navigating restaurant wine lists, and the basics of food and wine. Classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones.

An intermediate course that builds on the knowledge gained in Level 1. This course covers: why place matters; tasting through the world’s main wine regions; as well as sparkling, Champagne, Ports and fortified wines. Four nights of classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones.

Course offerings: February 12 & 19 or April 9 & 16 or May 7 & 14 (Wednesdays) Cost: $79.00, plus GST

Course offerings: March 5, 12, 19 & 26 (Wednesdays) Cost: $159.00, plus GST

Gift cards are available for Banville & Jones Basics classes.

CERTIFICATION PROGRAMS

WS100 Summer School

Wine Specialist 100 (No prerequisite: acceptance on a first-come basis)

Banville & Jones Wine Institute is thrilled to announce the addition of a new three-day WS100 class. This intensive format is perfect for people living outside of Winnipeg or wine lovers who simply cannot attend the traditional nine-week class. This summer session will provide the opportunity to complete our exclusive Wine Specialist 100 course in a condensed time frame.

WS 100 is an entry-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET ® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes basic instruction in restaurant wine service. Topics include the WSET ® Level 2 Systematic Approach to Tasting; significant grape varieties; factors that influence wine styles; major wine regions; sparkling, sweet and fortified wines; spirits; food with wine matching; and basic wine service. WS 100 is the first of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 8 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm, plus a 1.5 hour exam on the 9th week. Course offering: starting April 7, 2014 (Mondays) or September 16, 2014 (Tuesdays) Cost: $695 plus GST

Wine Steward 200 (Prerequisites: WS 100; WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits; ISG 1: acceptance on a first-come basis) WS 200 is an advanced-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET ® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes intermediate instruction in restaurant wine service. WSET Level 3 builds on the topics of WSET ® Level 2 to create a greater depth of knowledge and experience. WS 200 is the second of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program.

Our talented BJWI instructors will guide students through tutored tastings and specially designed activities in preparation for the WSET ® Level 2 exam, which will be held on the final day of classes. Study materials will be mailed in advance to students who register before Friday, June 27. Students successfully completing the class requirements will receive the coveted WSET Level 2 Award in Wine & Spirits and the exclusive Wine Specialist 100 Certificate. Duration: 8 hours for three days, 9:00 am to 5:00 pm Course offering: Friday, July 11 to Sunday, July 13, 2014

Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 18 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm Course offering: starting September 15, 2014 (Mondays)

Cost: $695.00 plus GST

Cost: $1,295 plus GST

(Course descriptions continued on page 51)

50 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


Ph o y tos b Ian McCausland

Wine & Food Evenings

Luxury Tasting

Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a series of wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience.

Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialities cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures.

Cost: $79.99 per person Saturday, March 8: Rembrandt’s (on the main floor) Thursday, March 13: Chew Friday, April 11: The Current at Inn at the Forks Thursday, April 24: Terrace in the Park Friday, May 9: All Seasons Thursday, May 22: Wasabi Sabi Friday, June 13: Amici

banville & jones

wine & food

events schedule February through june 2014

Cost: $99.00 per person Friday, May 23: California Dreaming Saturday, June 21: Italy versus France

Cooking Class Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings. Cost: $89.99 per person Saturday, March 22: elements Thursday, April 17: Chew

Banville & Jones Wine Co. and The Velvet Glove invite you to two amazing wine and food events: A Winemaker’s Dinner with Brian “Prof” Lynn from Majella Wines

A Food and Wine Event with Silvio Di Silvio

Prof will be discussing his awardwinning Australian wines, which will be expertly paired by The Velvet Glove’s award-winning chefs.

Export Manager of Donnafugata Silvio Di Silvio will take guests on a tour of his excellent wines, paired with a Sicilian-inspired meal.

March 6, 2014 at 7:00 pm The Velvet Glove, The Fairmont Winnipeg

June 10, 2014 at 7:00 pm The Velvet Glove, The Fairmont Winnipeg

For reservations or further information about these events, please contact The Velvet Glove at 204.985.6200. Click on the Taste and Learn tab at www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on Food and Wine Events. To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE • Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. • Events begin at 7 pm unless otherwise noted. • Prices do not include taxes.

BJWI Professional Sommelier Program—CAPS Certified (Prerequisites: WS 200; or WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits; or ISG 2: acceptance based on individual applications) The PSP is an in-depth, rigorous, and challenging program recognized by the CAPS (Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers), a nation member of ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale). The course is built upon six modules: Production Methods, Sensory and Wine Styles, Wines of the Old World, Wines of the New World, Spirits and Other Beverages, and Sommelier Management. Students must also arrange a stage consisting of 60 hours of practical experience under supervision in a restaurant-hospitality environment. Upon successful completion of coursework and stage, students may challenge the CAPS Sommelier Certification Exam to obtain their professional Sommelier designation. Course offering: Next dates TBA. Cost: TBA

Register for all courses at Banville & Jones, 204-948-WINE (9463) or inquire at bjwi@banvilleandjones.com. For full course descriptions, visit banvilleandjones.com and click on Taste and Learn. www.banvilleandjones.com 51


PURCHASE YOUR WINE ONLINE Too busy to stop by? We can help! http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com Contact us before 10AM, and we will deliver to your doorstep that same day!

Delivery is available within city limits Monday to Saturday from noon to 5 PM, and is free for orders of $200 or more before tax. For information about registering for CornerVine, contact Banville & Jones Wine Co. at 204.948.9463.


2013_Independent_09_outl.indd 1 Docket No.

889

12/19/2013 2:43:48 PM

File Name

2013_Independent_09

PUBLICATION:___________________________________________________________________ Cellar Door INSERTION DATE:_______ ____________________________ Feb 2014 AD SIZE: TRIM: BLEED: COLOUR:

7”W x 5”D n/a CMYK

Rolex Canada Ltd., 50 St. Clair Ave West, Toronto, ON M4V 3B7, T: 416.968.1100 - F: 416.968.2315

CLOSING: STARTED: COMPLETED:

Jan 02/13 Dec 19/13 Dec 19/13

INK-JET PRINTOUT IS NOT A COLOUR-ACCURATE PROOF AND MAY HAVE BEEN REDUCED TO FIT PAPER.

Artwork supplied by Rolex Canada Ltd.- Advertising Department Contact: Ana Catucci, Director Email: ana.catucci@rolex.com

THIS ADVERTISEMENT MUST BE USED ONLY FOR SPECIFIC PUBLICATION AND DATE, AND MUST NOT BE MODIFIED.


Fall vines in the Tolaini vineyards (Photo by Pauline Boldt)

under the tuscan sun:

the four seasons of Tolaini Estates The pilgrimage to Tolaini Estates in the heart of Tuscany is a rite of passage for the Sommeliers and wine experts at Banville & Jones. In fact, it has become a travel experience for many of Banville & Jones’s loyal customers who make the trip to Italy to see what the fuss is all about. The question is: when should you go? It would appear there is no bad time to visit (aside from harvest time!). Gary, Jill, Sylvia, and Andrea each make their case for their favourite time of year amid the vines at Tolaini Estates.

54 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


spring blooms in tuscany

The sun sets over spring vines (Photo by deimagine studio)

by Gary Hewitt, Sommelier, CWE, SDG, AIWS Escape the late-season snow, the slush, and the floods. Spring comes early to Tuscany, at least by Manitoba standards. Days lengthen, the hard work of winter pruning is past, a flush of green growth dapples the waking vines, and soon rapid vine growth begins. Spring marks the onset of the vineyard manager’s vintage-long vigilance. Will the weather hold for vine flowering and fruit set or will foul weather imprint the vintage with vineyard challenges? Was there enough winter rain to sustain the plants through the usually dry growing season? Spring is the time when all things are possible and hope runs high for an outstanding vintage. In Tolaini’s cellar, the wines have settled down and the tanks and barrels are assessed for blending.

Excitement heightens in anticipation of the spring visit of consultant oenologist and master blender, Michel Rolland. The true character of the wines from last year’s harvest begins to emerge. The days grow warmer from March through May: the dogged heat of summer still lies ahead. The air is fresh and full of floral scents; fresh vegetables make their way back to table, and traffic on Tuscany’s winding roads flows nicely. Spring is the ideal time to explore Tuscany’s rich heritage in cities such as Siena, San Gimignano, Montalcino, and Montepulciano or to discover the natural beauty of the Tyrranean Sea coast. In the spring, there is time to talk of wine, to linger over meals, to take long morning or evening walks, to live la dolce vita.


summer heat

by Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW It is just after 10:00 am on July 29, outside the front door of the winery at Tolaini Estates. The temperature is a sultry 40°C. The sky is cloudless, and there is scarcely a breath of a breeze. The vineyard staff has already been at work for a few hours. They are stepping vine by vine, row by row, doing the green harvest. Tolaini is reducing its potential harvest by more than a half in order to concentrate the vines’ energies into fewer bunches of fruit. It is one of the hallmarks of an estate driven to the highest quality. Behind each worker is a string of discarded fruit, dropped on the ground. Inside the winery, in the underground cellar, the temperature is a cool and stable 18 degrees. The samples in barrel and bottle are fresh, lively, rich, and complex. This is how it happens, I thought to myself. It is the sun. It is the heat. It is just plain backstraining work. And it is time in a cool, quiet cellar.

fall harvest

by Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG) CSW I’m crazy for Chianti and because of my incurable obsession I have found myself soaking up the Tuscan sun on more than one occasion. Having visited in the summer, fall and winter, I am firmly convinced that there is no time more beautiful than autumn. The heat of summer has subsided, many of the tourists have returned to work and the landscape glows with the quintessential Tuscan sun. Although one would be tempted to visit during harvest (usually early October), I recommend holding off a couple weeks and letting harvest wind down before you go. Why, you may ask? Well, having worked a harvest at Tolaini, I can vouch for the fact that things

Ripe grapes await hand-picking at harvest (Photo courtesy of Tolaini Estates)

at the winery are more than a little hectic. Workdays begin at six in the morning and continue until nine or ten at night—unless you are on the nightshift, which sees you punching down fermentation tanks into the early hours of the morning. The entire year’s work relies on what happens in those crucial days and the folks at Tolaini are not the only ones who are feeling the crunch at this ultra-stressful time of year. Other producers in the area are likely to have their cellar doors closed or will not be able to dedicate much time and attention to their visitors. Wait a couple weeks and many of these same producers will be happy to taste away the afternoon with you.


A rare snowfall covers the Tolaini vineyards (Photo courtesy of Tolaini Estates)

winter wonderland by Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

Dormant vines, weather that is cool enough to wear your Italian driving gloves, vineyard and winery employees finally catching their breath, and deliciously fragrant award-winning wine permeating the cellars. These are the sights, feelings, sounds, and smells that you experience when you visit Tolaini Estates in the middle of winter. As you stand on the wide stone balcony of the winery and take a deep breath, the crisp Tuscan air fills your lungs and the sprawling view of the resting vineyards is peaceful and calming. Rarely is there snow, but it does make an appearance—February 2012 was a prime example of snow-covered vineyards and drifts of the white stuff outlining the winding narrow roads in this part of Chianti. The beauty of winter in Tuscany means tourist season is long gone, prices have lowered, restaurants are not crowded and wineries welcome the visitors (with an appointment of course).

When you visit Tolaini Estates in the winter, there is a calm in the cellar. You have the chance to leisurely tour the winery and taste their beautiful wines, without another bus load of tourists on your heels. It may not be a beautiful all-inclusive resort vacation with continuously flowing lime margaritas—but visiting Tuscany in the winter is absolutely no comparison. There are breathtaking majestic rolling hills and winding roads, the most unbelievably delicious cuisine (prosciutto, pasta, pomodoro, parmigiano... oh my!) and by far some of the world’s most acclaimed and stunning wines that will ever cross your palate. Visiting Tuscany in the winter feels like you have the region to yourself. It is one of the most beautiful travel experiences you will have. Your knowledge and love of Tuscan wines will be heightened beyond belief and most importantly, your palate will thank you. 

w w w . p o r t a g e m u t u a l . c o m

Like a fine wine, Portage Mutual Insurance gets better with age. In over 125 years, we’ve had plenty of time to perfect our insurance coverages. Which means your home, farm, or business are in good hands.

Portage Mutual Insurance - Insurance Aged to Perfection Ask your independent insurance broker about Portage Mutual Insurance.


Photo by Todd Antonation

sidebar

By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

size matters It’s such an awkward question. “Does size matter?” In the wine world, absolutely, size matters. The lovely Al Passo, a Sangiovese-based wine from Tolaini, usually comes in a regular-size 750 ml bottle. But they also offer the same wine in a magnum (1.5 litres), a double magnum (3 litres), and all the way up to a massive 18-litre bottle that hulks in the lower reaches of a cabinet and holds its mighty pose if anyone stares. I have to say that some customers wonder out loud whether it is more about the show than about the substance. Well, in fact, the large size bottles are about both show and substance—both form and function. From a function point of view, large bottles can offer a longer aging window than a similarly stored 750 ml bottle. This is a matter of size: the size of the air pocket (which contains oxygen, the wine developer and killer) is proportionally smaller for larger bottles than for small. We can expect the large bottle of the same vintage of wine to show a bit more freshness and liveliness than its regular version. Wines in large-format bottles also tend to show a more gradual development, rewarding the time spent in cellar. But it is the form of the large bottle that really matters. There are few things more obviously about generosity, abundance, and just plain unmitigated fun than opening a huge bottle at a party. The bigger the bottle, the bigger the party. Or at least, the bigger the party mood. In fact, there are more than a few Sommeliers out there who enjoy opening a huge bottle of wine, in order to tote that massive bottle around their restaurant to offer a really special by-the-glass pour. Even the people at tables of ones and twos can enjoy a sip from a double magnum.

58 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Given the penchant for humans to give a name to anything they really love, really large bottles have been deemed special enough to sport titles. In fact, Methusaleh, Salmanazar, Balthazar, Nebuchadnezzar, and Melchior—the names of kings of the ancient world—are really special names for some of these huge bottles. Our 18-litre Al Passo friend is a Melchior. He’s the biggest (except for a few Champagne giants). At the other end, there are small bottles—half bottles (called by the not particularly striking or historic name demi) and tiny quarters (sometimes called a split). These little packages give just enough wine for a starter course for two people, a full dinner for one, or as my brother would say, “Not enough wine for anyone.” These little ones mature more quickly than regular-sized bottles when cellared. The market, though, is heavily dominated by the standard 750 ml bottle size. This size is an interesting creature—having been decided upon possibly by the lung capacity of the average glass blower when bottles first came to market. Since that time, the 750 ml has been alternately viewed as the recommended amount of wine for one person for a day; or a good amount for two people in a sitting. It is now the standard size for the various wine storage mechanisms on the market. Some people speculate that a better size would be 500 ml or one litre. Still others promote the benefits of a bag-inbox the size of a shipping container, because ultimately no packaging is the most environmentally friendly packaging. Demi, split, magnum or Melchior: there is a size for everyone. And it matters. So here’s to you finding the right size every time. 


SMART LUXURY Travel lighter, easier, faster and smarter with the new Baseline luggage collection

204.943.1068 · www.unluggage.com

Legendary performance, guaranteed for life.™

Escape the Ordinary…

2012NewBline_FullPg.indd 1

Join John and natalia van Houdt of Amazing cruises and safaris and treat yourself to some of the world’s finest food and wine as you sail through the wine growing regions of Beaujolais, Burgundy and Châteauneuf du Pape.

For more information contact John or Natalia:

AMAZING CRUISES AND SAFARIS 70 Beaupre Bay, Winnipeg, MB

204-989-8800 or 1-800-461-7245

Natalia: info@amazingcruisesandsafaris.com John: john@amazingcruisesandsafaris.com

TAsTe of Burgundy & provence A-ROSA STELLA – 7 NIGHTS May 31, 2014 Lyon Roundtrip Mâcon, Chalon-sur-Saône, Tournus, Lyon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Avignon (overnight), Arles, Viviers and La Voulte From us $3,169 per guest Riverview Category S - Twin Single Supplements waived in select categories! Other itineraries and sailing dates available. Fares are cruise only, per person based on double occupancy, in U.S. dollars, reflect promotional savings, are for new bookings only, subject to availability, may not be combinable with other offers, and may be withdrawn at any time without prior notice. A-ROSA Cruises reserves the right to correct any errors or omissions and to cancel any offered product or service in the event of such error or omission. Additional restrictions may apply. Ship’s Registry: Germany

9/25/12 9:38 AM

All-InclusIve europeAn rIver cruIsIng n Open bar (all day, all venues) n Onboard gratuities n Transfers, all port charges, taxes and fees n Selection of complimentary excursions n Gourmet food & wine dinners n Onboard WiFi

An A-rosA exclusIve! Complimentary lunch served at the restaurant of world-renowned chef, Paul Bocuse.


culinary partners 529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez! 529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325

Step’N Out is the most uniquely intimate restaurant sur le boulevard in St. Boniface. The rich décor, personalized hand-written menu board, innovative cuisine, and wine list are inspiring and romantic, making loyal patrons out of most every visitor for 13 years. As Marion Warhaft of the Winnipeg Free Press noted, “Everything about the place is five stars.”

Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 5:30 for dinner. 956 St Mary’s Road 204.254.4681

With a bright, sunny view of The Forks, The Current is the perfect place to wind down after work or host visiting guests to the city. Experience a deliciously Canadian gourmet menu, complemented by an award-winning wine list. The lounge also offers live Jazz, Friday and Saturday evenings. 75 Forks Market Road 204.922.2445

157 Provencher Boulevard 204.956.7837

Amici at Niakwa Golf and CC Amici Restaurant Best Western Plus Winnipeg Airport Hotel Blaze Bistro Bombolini Brooklynn’s Bistro Café 22 Café Dario Chew Diana’s Pizza elements Elkhorn Resort

Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared Old World dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team. 100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700

Step into the Atrium of the Assiniboine Park Pavilion and you will find yourself in the warm and inviting atmosphere of Terrace Restaurant. Chef Resch and WOW! Hospitality offer a one-of-a-kind seafood experience to Winnipeg: the very best quality fish and shellfish that have been harvested using sustainable, environmentally friendly methods. Unit B - 55 Pavilion Cr 204.938.7275

Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Fitzroy Horfrost Hotel Fort Garry and Ten Spa Hy’s Steakhouse Jane’s Restaurant and Red River College Joey Kenaston Joey Polo Park Joey’s Only Seafood Lobby on York Los Chicos Restaurante Y Cantina

Mano a Mano/Teo’s Market Burger Mulligan’s Restaurant and Lounge Olive Garden Italian Restaurant Pizzeria Gusto Rembrandt’s Bistro Sabai Thai Segovia Southwood Golf and Country Club South Beach Casino & Resort

St. Charles Country Club Sukhothai Swiss Chalet The Velvet Glove at the Fairmont TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant The Victoria Inn Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Wasabi Sabi


shopping list ‰‰ Albae 2012 Esencia Chardonnay Tiera de Castilla, Spain $13.99.....................................................................................…62 ‰‰ Argento Wine Co. 2012 Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina $11.99.....................................................................................…........40 ‰‰ Bon Cap Wines 2011 The Ruins Pinotage Robertson, South Africa $15.99.........................................................................…40 ‰‰ Caliza 2010 Syrah Paso Robles, California $85.99.....................................................................................…...........................49 ‰‰ Cantina Social Trento 2011 1339 Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Italy $13.99..............................................................…62 ‰‰ Clayhouse 2009 Adobe Red Paso Robles, California $24.99.....................................................................................…...............62 ‰‰ Dom Brial nv Immoral France $21.99.....................................................................................…...............................................14 ‰‰ Domaine Felines Jourdan 2012 Picpoul de Pinet Languedoc, France $14.99....................................................................22, 40 ‰‰ Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2009 Rosso di Montalcino, Italy $29.99...............................................................................…49 ‰‰ Donnafugata 2012 Anthìlia Catterato, DOP Sicily, Italy $19.99.....................................................................................…....43 ‰‰ Donnafugata 2012 Kabir Moscato di Pantelleria DOP Sicily, Italy, $22.99............................................................................45 ‰‰ Fèlsina 2009 Berardegna DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $34.99.....................................................................................…........44 ‰‰ Grosset 2012 Polish Hill Riesling Clare Valley, Australia $48.99.....................................................................................….14 ‰‰ Hidalgo nv Morenita Cream Sherry Jerez, Spain $13.99.....................................................................................….................14 ‰‰ Hidalgo nv Pedro Ximinez Jerez, Spain $29.99.....................................................................................…...............................14 ‰‰ Inflorescence 2011 Val Vilaine Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne, France $93.99.....................................................................25 ‰‰ innocent bystander 2011 Pinot Noir Yarra Valley, Australia $23.99.....................................................................................…14 ‰‰ J. Bouchon 2011 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Maule Valley, Chile $14.99.................................................................................22 ‰‰ Joseph Mellot 2011 Destinea Cabernet Franc Loire Valley, France $13.99.............................................................................14 ‰‰ Lamborghini 2008 Trescone IGT Umbria, Italy $28.99...........................................................................................................43 ‰‰ La Vis 2012 Dipinti Pinot Grigio Veneto, Italy $16.99.....................................................................................….................62 ‰‰ Lingenfelder 2010 Spätlese Grauburgunder, Germany $26.99.....................................................................................…..........49 ‰‰ Lorgeril 2012 De Pennautier Viognier Pays D’Oc, France $14.99.....................................................................................…22 ‰‰ Masi 2008 Costasera Amarone Classico Valpollicella, Italy $42.99.....................................................................................…31 ‰‰ Radio-Coteau 2008 Le Neblina Pinot Noir Sonoma, USA $87.99..........................................................................................…49 ‰‰ Roses de Jeanne 2009 La Haute-Lemblé Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne, France $159.99...............................................25 ‰‰ Roses de Jeanne 2009 La Bolorée Blanc de Blancs Champagne, France $198.99........................................................................25 ‰‰ Roses de Jeanne 2009 Les Ursules Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne, France $432.99................................................................25 ‰‰ Santa Venere 2009 Ciró Gaglioppo Rosso Classico, Italy $17.99............................................................................................62 ‰‰ Scacciadiavoli 2012 Grechetto Dell’Umbria, Italy $16.99.........................................................................................................22 ‰‰ Simonsig 2012 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch, South Africa $12.99...............................................................................................40 ‰‰ Tawse Winery 2012 Sketches Riesling Niagara Peninsula, Canada $19.99...........................................................................62 ‰‰ Terlan 2011 Quarz Sauvignon Blanc Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy $53.99...................................................................................49 ‰‰ Terlan 2010 Vorberg Pinot Bianco Riserva, DOC Alto Adige, Italy $32.99.................................................................................44 ‰‰ Tolaini 2009 Al Passo IGT Tuscany, Italy $29.99.......................................................................................................................29 ‰‰ Tolaini 2009 Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG Tuscany, Italy $45.99..........................................................................................29 ‰‰ Tolaini 2008 Valdisanti IGT Tuscany, Italy $49.99.......................................................................................................................29 ‰‰ Tolaini 2009 Picconero IGT Tuscany, Italy $139.99...................................................................................................................29 ‰‰ Ventisquero 2011 Grey Label Carménère Maipo Valley, Chile $22.99......................................................................................49 ‰‰ Wittmann 2012 Trocken Riesling Rheinhessen, Germany $28.99..............................................................................................14 ‰‰ Xavier Monnot 2011 Les Chevalières Meursault Burgundy, France $68.99..............................................................................49 ‰‰ Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina $16.99....................................................................................................40

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of the product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co.

www.banvilleandjones.com 61


* CUSTOMER PICK *

top picks

Léo Boiteau

Jan de Vlaming

Andrea Eby

Clayhouse 2009 Adobe Red Paso Robles, California $24.99

Tawse Winery 2012 Sketches Riesling Niagara Peninsula, Canada $19.99

Cantina Social Trento 2011 1339 Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Italy $13.99

From Tawse Winery in Niagara comes this light and refreshing Riesling. The bright citrus and floral aromas are followed by peach, lemon, green apple, and white flowers. With a great balance of acidity and sweetness, this Riesling will easily match with just about anything or stand well all by itself.

Pronounced “teh-rawl-DEH-goh,” this ancient grape variety calls the Dolomite Mountains of northern Italy its home. Medium bodied with flavours of spicy black fruit, orange peel, and herbs, this juicy wine is smooth with just a hint of grip on the finish. For those of you looking to expand your horizons, Teroldego represents a delicious departure from the ordinary.

Saralyn Mehta

Renée Vincent

Anna Everett

Santa Venere 2009 Ciró Gaglioppo Rosso Classico, Italy $17.99

La Vis 2012 Dipinti Pinot Grigio Veneto, Italy $16.99

Albae 2012 Esencia Chardonnay, Spain $13.99

How can you resist trying a wine made from a grape called Gaglioppo? I couldn’t and now I am hooked. Medium bodied with fresh berry and a hint of earthiness, the grippy tannins make this wine super food friendly. Try it with Italian sausage, grilled meats or a hearty beef stew. I promise you will have a new favourite.

This lovely white wine has a beautiful fruity aroma with a hint of pear. It is a flavourful wine and would pair well with soup or any egg-based foods, as well as fish or poultry of any kind. This Pinot Grigio is a great value and is best enjoyed with good company or just relaxing listening to your favorite R&B album.

This unoaked Esencia Chardonnay is not what you would expect. It has soft fresh citrus notes with a long finish that avoids oaky vanilla flavours. If you’ve never been one for oaked Chardonnay, this is a great wine to test the waters. This refreshing and easy-drinking wine goes great with or without food.

The majority of the grape varieties in this blend come from Clayhouse’s Red Cedar Vineyard, just east of Paso Robles in Central California. Adobe Red is a super blend wine with aromas of cherry spice, blackberry, and pepper, with hints of brambles and plum. Cherry and berry flavours dominate on the palate. The tannins are fine and supple, and a bit of oak character adds additional vanilla notes to the balanced finish.

62 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com


NEVERCOMPROMISE

Visit us at our showhome at 28 Waterstone Drive

GenuwineCellars

204-339-2035 • MARICHOMES.COM

204-668-8101 • GENUWINECELLARS.COM

the future of tradition


Profile for Poise Publications

The Cellar Door: Issue 17. The Tolaini Issue. February 2014 - May 2014.  

The Cellar Door: Issue 17. The Tolaini Issue. February 2014 - May 2014.

The Cellar Door: Issue 17. The Tolaini Issue. February 2014 - May 2014.  

The Cellar Door: Issue 17. The Tolaini Issue. February 2014 - May 2014.

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded