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Wally Kutch, like many Milwaukee pizzeria owners, sends Caradaro Club customers home with carryout or leftover pies in stapled bags rather than cardboard boxes.
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“You’ve got to roll out the dough thin. And to make it stand up [to a lot of toppings], you need a high-gluten flour and a certain percentage of salt in the mix.” — WALLY KUTCH, THE CARADARO CLUB
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Like Kutch, Siever won’t divulge much more than that. “We have the recipe written down in a safe place, and there’s only three people who know how to make the dough,” he says. He adds, jokingly, “We’re never in the same place at the same time.” When the dough is ready, Nemetz says, “A couple of the pizzerias will actually par-bake the crust, pull it back out, flip it over, dress it, and then put it back in to finish. I think it helps that the classic Milwaukee pizza never really has that many toppings on it, even if you order it with everything.” “When you’re doing a thin-crust pizza, you can bake it off much quicker,” Siever says. “For taverns, especially for people that are hungry, you want to feed them quickly. And
pizza is everything you want to make of it—ingredients can be from soup to nuts.” But Milwaukee-style pizza, like pizza in most parts of the world, largely adheres to time-honored traditions. “The major players here haven’t deviated much from what people have come to know and love,” Siever says. “When our old customers move away and then come back to town, the first place they go is Balistreri’s. That’s what they remember, what they loved when they were growing up. We tweak things a little bit—we might add a couple of things—but we stick to the basics of what made us who we are. Never forget where you came from.”
34 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA
1/28/19 1:34 PM