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Austria – Germany – Holland – Belgium – Luxembourg – Spain – France – Monaco – Portugal = Euro 10,00 – Switzerland – Switzerland Ticino = Chf 10,50 – United Kingdom = £ 7,50

n° 16 -

fall 2016 - € 10

ITALIAN STYLE IN DESIGN, FOOD AND LIVING

QUARTERLY Poste Italiane S.p.a. Spedizione in Abbonamento Postale - 70% - LO/MI

seasonal


THE HEAD SAYS YES. THE HEART SAYS DEFINITELY, YES.

MASERATI GHIBLI. THE ABSOLUTE OPPOSITE OF ORDINARY THE ALL NEW MASERATI GHIBLI IS POWERED BY A RANGE OF ADVANCED 3.0 LITRE V6 ENGINES WITH 8-SPEED ZF AUTO, INCLUDING A V6 TURBODIESEL ENGINE, AND IS AVAILABLE WITH MASERATI’S Q4 INTELLIGENT ALL WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM. ENGINE (GHIBLI DIESEL): V6 60° 2987 CC - MAX POWER: 275 HP AT 4000 RPM - MAX TORQUE: 600 NM AT 2600 RPM - MAX SPEED: 250 KM/H - 0-100 KM/H ACCELERATION: 6.3 SECS - FUEL CONSUMPTION (COMBINED CYCLE): 5.9 L/100 KM - CO2 EMISSIONS (COMBINED CYCLE): 158 G/KM The data may not refer to the model represented.

www.maserati.com

Maserati


Ogni gioiello è


editorial

What is the fatal charm of I taly? What do we find there that can be found nowhere else? I believe i t is a certain permission to be human, which other places, other countries, lost long ago.

Erica Jong September saw this summer go out in style, so before welcoming autumn we’d like to bid a spectacular goodbye to that wonderful season. We look at Capri, the island of the gods, a destination that has retained the magic of 1960s-style Dolce Vita, and Puglia, a land rich in history, tradition and natural beauty that we discover on land and by sea, cruising on board a catamaran in the Tremiti islands. Then there’s a spa “in stone”, between Naples and Benevento...and we take advantage of the late-summer sunshine with a weekend in Umbria, in a lovely hotel near Todi. We say goodbye to the South and head northwards to Burano, with the charm of its colourful houses forming an intensely chic “albergo diffuso”, and the hot spas of wellbeing centres from Euganean Hills to Versilia. We enjoy a sports-oriented interlude in an exclusive Golf Resort near Udine and a style experience in a new hotel on Lake Como that bears the signature of Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola. Harvest time takes us on a virtual tour of the most illustrious Italian estates, guided by a comprehensive book on the subject, and then we hunt truffles in the Langhe. Our ultimate destination is Franciacorta, the land of great wines, and a beautiful hilltop hotel set in a former monastery, where we enjoy mouthwatering dishes prepared by a exceptional chef.

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in this issue n° 16

fall

2016

46

departments 7 Editorial 14

5 questions

16 Arts 20

News in Brief

22 Weekend 24 Air 26 Spa 30

Luxury rental

32 Watches

96

36

66

Being in the world

56 Style 62 Yachts 72 Wine 76 Objects 110

Best of Italy

talking about 42 Venissa Mazzorbo Island 52 80

36 10

Hot spas Design Hotel, Lake Como

86 Golf 110

Italian chef


110 56

destinations 46 Maldives 66

Langhe

90 Capri 92

Tuscan Archipelago

94 Puglia

76

104 Tremiti Islands

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5 questions by Teresa Crespi

to...

Gherardo Viani, a versatile entrepreneur whose interests have shifted from fashion to the hotel business in Italy. He chose the beautiful, cultured island of Sicily for this new initiative

From fashion to hotels. How did that happen? I was lucky enough to spend quite some time working with Luciano Benetton, a great master who taught me a lot. I was an agent for the Benetton Group in Russia for almost twenty years. I tested out a new market and developed a good business. Then in 2010, together with a Russian partner, I decided to make a change and set out on this new adventure in the hotel sector. Why did you choose Sicily? For love, really. I’ve spent some wonderful holidays on this magnificent island, and when my wife Jiulia (Garcia Serrano, Italian commercial manager for the Spanish AC Hotel Group - ed) and I came across a ruined manor farm we thought it would be the right place to make a start. I must say that she made a very important contribution and we’re now very happy with our decision. Tell us a little about Masseria della Volpe... What should I say...it’s a magical place, in both its location in the heart of the Val di Noto, between the Hyblaean mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, and the atmosphere that surrounds it. We didn’t want a large hotel, but a lovely “country house” where our guests can feel at ease. That’s why we took the deliberate decision to retain the features of the late 19th century manor, restoring the citrus groves and the centuries-old olive and carob trees, adding a swimming pool, wellness centre and top-quality restaurant. We took care not to modify the typical Sicilian agricultural structure, and we’re very proud of the results. Will there be Masserie in other regions of southern Italy? I don’t think so, not for the time being. But if we were to experience another “love at first sight”, it would be in Sicily again. In the context of hotels, what other countries would you invest in? I think that today’s Moscow would be an ideal destination. The city has enormous potential but lacks small, attractive hotels. People who go there, whether it’s for pleasure or work, are increasingly attracted by hotels with just a few rooms and top-class service. So why not? Russia could be good business!

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Ocean Home esecutivo.pdf

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Yacht Management

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Via Gen. Guisan, 1 CH-6833 Vacallo Switzerland T. +41 (0) 91 6900065 E. info@floatinglife.com

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arts

ITA LY

by Valeria Rastrelli

Treviso

CAPITAL OF ART Treviso becomes Capital of Art in 2016 and 2017 with a series of important exhibitions held at the same time in the same museum. On display will be Impressionist masterpieces and works by Titian, Rubens and Rembrandt, as well as paintings by Guttuso, Vedova, Schifano and other contemporary masters. The first, The History of Impressionism, brings to Italy 120 paintings that shaped the history of the artistic movement, with works by such figures as Manet, Degas, Renoir, Monet, Pissarro, Sisley, Toulouse Lautrec, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Seurat and many others. The Female Image in the 16th and 17th Century, however, is dedicated to Titian, Rubens and Rembrandt, with three masterworks from the Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh that influenced the Impressionists’ definition of the female image - Titian’s “Venus Anadyomene”, Rubens’ “The Feast of Herod” and Rembrandt’s “A Woman in Bed”. The cycle is closed by the exhibition entitled From Guttuso to Vedova to Schifano. The Theme of Painting in Italy in the later 20th Century, examining Italian painting between the end of the first decade of the 20th century and the late 1930s. The shown features representative works from around fifty artists. 16

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Museo di Santa Caterina 29 October 2016 -17 April 2017 www.museicivicitreviso.it


ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI An unmissable encounter with paintings by the artist of the Caravaggio school who became an icon of international feminism, achieving recognition in the 1970s for the rape case she was involved in. The exhibition includes some of her most important works, like the Virgin and Child, The Conversion of the Magdalene, Judith Slaying Holofernes, Cleopatra, Portrait of Gonfaloniere, Judith and her Maidservant and Saint Januarius in the Amphitheatre of Pozzuoli. Palazzo Braschi 30 November 2016 - 8 May 2017 www.museodiroma.it

Rome

Milan

ITA LY

“AI WEIWEI. FREE” A dissident artist and provocative figure who has featured in exhibitions staged by the world’s most important museums and galleries, Ai Weiwei takes over the Palazzo Strozzi with older works and new productions involving the entire space. For the first time the venue, which has played an iconic role in the history of Florence, will be used as a unified exhibition space, highlighting one of the particular themes of Ai Weiwei’s work, the relationship between tradition and modernity. Palazzo Strozzi 22 September 2016 - 22 January 2017 www.palazzostrozzi.org

Ferrara

Florence ESCHER IN MILAN Over two hundred works enabling visitors to explore the Dutch artist’s creative process, from his training as an engraver and member of the Art Nouveau movement. Escher became famous through his woodcuts, lithographs and mezzotints, which often portrayed impossible structures, explorations of the infinite, tessellated surfaces and spaces and interconnected geometrical motifs that gradually metamorphose into different forms. Palazzo Reale July 2016 - January 2017 www.palazzorealemilano.it

THE 500TH ANNIVERSARY OF “ORLANDO FURIOSO” Ferrara celebrates the 500th anniversary of Ludovico Ariosto’s “Orlando Furioso” with a large exhibition featuring materpieces by the most important artists of the period, from Mantegna to da Vinci, Raphael, Michelangelo and Titian, as well as classic and renaissance sculptures, engravings, tapestries, weapons, books and objects of extraordinary beauty and value, bringing to life the chivalric world of Furioso and his paladins. Palazzo dei Diamanti from 24 September to 8 January www.palazzodiamanti.it

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arts

London

by Valeria Rastrelli

WO RLD Madrid

ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISM AT ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS An exhibition of over 150 paintings, sculptures and photographs from public and private collections throughout the world, bringing together works from the most acclaimed proponents of the movement, from De Kooning and Rothko to Pollock and Clyfford Still. The show explores the phenomenon of Abstract Expressionism across a range of media, expressing the movement’s two main themes - the color-field, paintings that concentrate on the sublime, contemplative use of colour, and movement, with the socalled action paintings. Royal Academy of Arts 24 September 2016 - 2 January 2017 www.royalacademy.org.uk

Vienna

RENOIR AN INTIMACY A wide-ranging retrospective, for the first time held outside the Prado, examining the way the great Impressionist used the tactile suggestions of volume, materials and textures to represent intimacy from the point of view of society, friendship, the family and the erotic. The exhibition comprises seventy works with a range of genres, from group scenes to portraits or nudes as well as still lifes and landscapes. Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum 18 October 2016 - 22 January 2017 www.museothyssen.org

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500 YEARS OF HIERONYMUS BOSCH IN VIENNA Five hundred years after his death the Dutch renaissance artist can still amaze viewers with such dreamlike, enigmatic works as “The Last Judgment”. The subjects of this triptych are Paradise, the Last Judgement and Hell, populated by strange, vividlycoloured beings, hybrid creatures, half man, half beast, and weird life forms. Academy of Fine Arts 4 November 2016 - 29 January 2017 www.akademiegalerie.at

“RAPHAEL. POETRY OF THE IMAGE” This collaboration between the Uffizi Galleries in Florence and Moscow’s Pushkin museum presents an extensive exhibition displaying Raphael’s works in the Russian capital. It includes three of the artist’s masterpieces on loan from the Florentine museums - the Self Portrait, the Portrait of Maddalena Strozzi and the Portrait of Agnolo Doni, as well as the Madonna del Granduca and the Angel from the Tosio Martinengo Gallery in Brescia. Pushkin Museum 12 September - 11 December 2016 www.arts-museum.ru

Moscow

RENÉ MAGRITTE, LA TRAHISON DES IMAGES This completely new exhibition reinterprets the entire work of the artist in the light of five “figures” to which Magritte made constant reference in his work: fire, shadows, curtains, words and the fragmented body. Through an approach based on these themes, the exhibition reveals the artist’s thinking on questions of resemblance and realism, and highlights his works dealing with the deceptive representations of the world. Centre Georges Pompidou 21 September 2016 - 23 January 2017 www.centrepompidou.fr

Paris


“Sicily at its best” MASSERIA DELLA VOLPE - NOTO - SICILY www.masseriadellavolpe.com — info@masseriadellavolpe.it — +39 0931 856055


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news in brief by Teresa Crespi

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1. MÒ - PUGLIAN BISTROT IN MILANO Via Pontaccio 5 is the place to meet in Brera to sample delicacies from the heel of Italy. What does Mò mean? It’s a typical Puglian term used throughout the region, meaning “here and now”. Mò offers the Milanese a new opportunity to abandon themselves to the tastes of Puglia. Mò is the place where Puglia can be experienced in all its variations, from the typical dishes of the slow-cooking tradition of the “street” bakers’ to the heady wines redolent of Pizzica and Taranta, and the most enchanting products of Puglian artisanal skills. The products served are always fresh, selected from among the excellence of Puglia’s harvest by a young, knowledgeable staff. Not a piece of Puglia, but all of Puglia in Milan! www.mobistrot.com

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2. LIVING THE MED Architecture and eco-sustainability? Both are possible with Casa Patio, designed and built by Moretti-MORE (part of the Moretti company, which operates in industrial construction, and the Holding Terra Moretti in Franciacorta). It’s the ideal solution for anyone seeking a quick build for a house that combines character, innovation and quality. Completed in only eight weeks, a modular construction with a range of possibilities, this innovative home is the brainchild of a company that has made “quality of life” its hallmark. One example is the eco-tech Mediterraneanstyle house with swimming pool. It is built on a single level with four external spaces that can serve a variety of purposes. Casa Patio makes it possible to live in the open air in contact with nature all year round, interpreting the gardens and outdoor spaces around the house in constantly original ways. www.morettimore.it

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3.THE CENTRO Only recently opened but already a magnet for shopaholics, the Centro is the largest shopping centre in Italy, and perhaps Europe, located outside Milan on the site where, until a few years ago, the Alfa Romeo factory stood, between the towns of Arese and Lainate. As well as a complex housing two hundred shops, the redevelopment also involved the construction of a villaggio dei motori, a centre for all types of motor vehicle that maintains a link with the location’s previous character. Connected by a bridge to the shopping centre, the Centro Guida Sicura comprises a 1.5 km track along the course of the original Alfa Romeo testing circuit, four dedicated safe driving areas and two apartment blocks with event spaces, designed by architect Michele De Lucchi. www.centroilcentro.it 4. “TOP OF THE MOUNTAINS” Lech-Zürs and Kitzbühel in Austria, St. Moritz and Gstaad in Switzerland, Courchevel in France, Aspen in Colorado, Sochi in Russia and Almaty in Kazakhstan - all together in Alta Badia to celebrate the excellence of the mountain venues, the “Top of the mountains”. These are just some of the ski resorts where some of the main players in the ninth “Sciare con gusto” (Ski with taste) on the snows of Alta Badia, which will be opening

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for ski enthusiasts on December 3. Make a note in your diary, and we’ll be providing a more in-depth look in the next issue. www.altabadia.org


5. DINNER WITH A SEA VIEW Villa Porticciolo di Rapallo, an iconic destination for the Tigullio region, has reopened its “floating” restaurant beside the sea. The famous 19th century residence perched over the water has been restored to its original splendour through the consultancy of a famous architect and the new management of the Milanese company Bliss, a group of friends with a passion for the sea, led by entrepreneur Patricia Kieran. Open for lunch and dinner all year round, guests eat surrounded by shells, marine treasures and flowers in the antique frescoed hall of the villa. The cooking is handled by two chefs, Francesco and Lavinia, specialists in simple dishes based on refinement and top-quality ingredients, with as many as possible zero-kilometre sourced.

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www.villaporticciolo.it

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6. IN AUTUMN - FRUIT, WATER AND CASTLES The ancient castles of Strassoldo di Sopra and di Sotto (Cervignano del Friuli, Udine), will put on their party clothes and open to the public on 22 and 23 October, creating a backdrop for artisanal products, antiques and magnificent plant nurseries. The event is dedicated to autumn and its colours, where the castle rooms host antique dealers, craftspeople and artists offering creations in gold, silver, copper, precious stones, paper, leather, iron, fine natural and painted fabrics, wood, ceramics, wire and wax - objects that are hard to find elsewhere, selected with great care by the castle hosts. The castle village, however, will host a corner for top-quality exhibitors with a passion for research, conservation and cultivation of forgotten, special and rare plants. Also on offer are delicious specialities like chocolate, confectionery, balsamic vinegar and liquorice. Visitors can also enjoy a series of associated events, including small ancient music concerts inspired by autumn and free guided visits to discover the castle complex. www.turismofvg.it 7. PEPPER ON BOARD Costa Diadema, flagship of the Costa Crociere fleet, was the setting for

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the presentation of Pepper, a robot that can recognise the main human emotions and interact with its environment. From today five Pepper robots will be operating an all the Costa Diadema’s seven-day cruises in the western Mediterranean. Their purpose will be to entertain the ship’s guests. This exciting new attraction is the result of a collaboration between the Italian cruise line and SoftBank Robotics. On board the ship the Peppers will be able to speak to passengers in Italian, English and French, attracting their attention and initiating interaction whenever they draw near. The robots’ most amusing functions involve dancing with guests, involving them in games and suggesting they take selfies with them They will also provide information about the ship and its on-board services, restaurants, bars, services, shops, excursions,

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activities, spa and destinations. www.costacrociere 8. A BRAND NEW HOTEL The home of the Poligrafico and National Mint in Rome is to become one of the Rosewood Hotels and Resorts luxury hotel chain, part of the Chinese property empire New World China Land. Residenziale Immobiliare 2004, the company that owns the building, has signed an agreement with Rosewood to manage the complex, the result of a redevelopment of the over 50,000 square metres art-nouveau style building in Piazza Verdi. This stands in the Parioli/ Pinciano resdiential quarter, between the two large public gardens of Villa Ada and di Villa Borghese. After restructuring the site will boast a luxury 200-room hotel with a congress centre, restaurant, swimming pool, wellbeing centre and fifty private residences. www.rosewoodhotels.com

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weekend by Antonella Euli

Umbria’s Natural Charms On a hill surrounded by vineyards, in the heart of the Umbrian countryside, stands Relais Todini. A period residence in a 12th century manor, surrounded by the Todini estate - five hundred hectares of vineyards, livestock farming and a hunting reserve. Redeveloped in a number of stages, it is now a period five-star stone and terracotta residence with frescoed walls, fireplaces, tapestries and wood beam ceilings. There are only eight rooms and four suites, all different and all furnished with period items. Those seeking a truly exclusive experience can choose a stay at the Villa Sant’Isidoro, located in gardens with a view over valley, lakes and hills. Guests can enjoy an excellent spa where wellbeing begins with refined infusions in the relaxation area and continues in the Turkish bath with chromotherapy, maxi Jacuzzi and a range of treatments including baths in wine extracts and an exclusive line of cosmetic products with truffle extracts. Lunch and dinner are served in the elegant restaurant with a view of Todi. Here sophisticated international cuisine complements typical traditional dishes. The kitchen team is led by chef John Paterson from Cumbria, England, whose dishes reflect a “simple, honest, hand, recreating the flavours, aromas and the atmosphere of Umbria itself”. All accompanied by the extra virgin olive oil produced on the estate. A variety of activities are offered for guests - visits to the private park with many types of animal, some exotic, that have found a favourable habitat here for growth and breeding. Guests can see zebra, camels, ostrich, deer, chamois, wild sheep, llamas, Ankole-Watusi cattle, pelicans, Canada geese and many other species. There are walking trips and mountain bike rides among vineyards, olive groves, woods and artificial lakes and guided tours to Todi, Perugia, Spoleto and Assisi, and it’s also possible to also join a hunt in the reserve, fish in the lakes and enjoy tastings and guided visits in the Cantina Todini, which produces excellent niche wines. www.wearetodini.com


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AIR by Valeria Rastrelli

QATAR AIRWAYS NEW AUSTRALIAN ROUTE After Melbourne and Perth, the multi-award winning Quatari airline has launched a daily Doha-Sydney flight, enabling Australian passengers to access the other 150 destinations served by the network. Business Class travellers on board the Boeing 777 to and from Sydney can relax on a fully reclining seat, enjoy the on-demand a la carte menu service, order at any time during the flight and link to the cutting edge entertainment system, Oryx One, with over 3,000 options on individual screens in all classes. On the A380 aircraft the First Class accommodation has a flexible space - the seat reclines fully to transform into a bed and the table can seat two people for dinner. And demanding palates will be flattered by the four illustrious chefs engaged by Qatar Airways - Nobu Matsuhisa, Tom Aikens, Ramzi Choueiri and Vineet Bhatia. www.qatarairways.com

LA PREMIÈRE BY AIR FRANCE Being a La Première flyer means travelling in a harmonious environment where luxury and sobriety reign in equal measure. The new cabin comprises four private suites with all comforts - personalised wardrobe with a complete range of accessories (comfy lounge wear and slippers, dust bag for shoes and a travel kit with face and body treatments by Givenchy) and a selection of containers for personal effects. The armchair seat transforms into a two-metre-long bed with futon, armrests, pillow and large Sofitel MyBed duvet. The entertainment system is cutting edge, and passengers can choose from a thousand hours of on-demand programmes - films in HD on 24” screens, games, documentaries, music

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and a new relaxation video. Great care has also been taken with the meals, and La Première passengers are offered a gourmet menu, wine included. The menus on flights from Paris are by Joël Robuchon, Régis Marcon, Guy Martin, Anne-Sophie Pic and Michel Roth, with the chef changing every two months. From spring 2017 the menu on flights from New York, Los Angeles and Washington to Paris will be created by Daniel Boulud. www.airfrance.com

AN AIRPORT CONCIERGE The only airline in Italy to introduce the service is Air Canada, which offers its clients at Milan Malpensa a five-star concierge. Air Canada launched this unique facility four years ago in forty-two international airports, with Milan included more recently. Reserved for VIP, Business, Elite and Super Elite passengers the free service for inward and outbound flights includes a team of concierges, specially-trained multilingual staff whose task is to welcome and assist passengers before and after their flight, responding to every request, also via a dedicated telephone contact. From car rental and hotel and restaurant bookings to buying gifts, theatre tickets and flowers, the concierge is there to support passengers with an extensive network of contacts in the city they are based in. This special service has gained a series of accolades for the company, including the Best Airline in North America award, and has enabled it to become the only company in North America to be granted a 4-star rating by Skytrax. www.aircanada.com


ENJOY REAL HOSPITALITY diamondsresorts.com

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Kenya - Maldive - Mozambico - Zanzibar tma_3_2016.indd 1

Managed by PlanHotel Hospitality Group 23.09.16 20:16


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spa

WATER IN THE ROCK by Antonella Euli

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You’re not expecting it, and as a result it has a jaw-dropping impact. Under an hour from Naples, just before reaching Benevento, near the spa resort of Telese Terme, an unpaved road among the woods of oak leads to an old, totally-restored stone-built village surrounded by centuries-old olive groves, with a number of chapels. It stands in the heart of ancient Sannio Beneventano, a land of great wines and fine foods. At Aquapetra the sound of silence is interrupted only by birdsong and the voice of the winds blowing across the main square and along the narrow paved streets leading to the rooms, swimming pool, restaurant and spa. Buildings with a variety of interior volumes, where the interiors embrace the outside through broad, panoramic windows

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spa

looking out onto meadows, woods and paths. The restoration was personally supervised by the owner/architect, who has given new life to every space without excessive change. The spa, for example, the resort’s focus, is located in what was originally the old barn, includes the atmospheric Aquaspa. Its name says it all - water and stone throughout, as well as wide windows looking out onto the outdoor pool. The well-being offer comprises sauna, Turkish bath, Kneipp cures, indoor pool with hydromassage and relaxation area with a view of the gardens, plus a number of renovated cabins for fitness and well-being treatments using Carita products. There are twenty or so options on offer, and combined with essential oil, hot stones and mud treatments they provide guests with an unforgettable experience. The varied choices include a private spa for couples - where guests are welcomed with a flute of Italian sparkling wine accompanied by fresh fruit, and can enjoy an intimate experience of the entire Aquaspa offer, from swimming pool with hydromassage to the sauna, Turkish bath, Kneipp cures and aroma/chromotherapy shower. Small groups can also rent the entire spa. If your aim is to restore the balance between mind and body then treat yourself to a mini-escape of romantic wellbeing. Female guests

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are offered the Ideal White face treatment, an oxygen therapy to target tired, uneven complexions, while for men there is a 100% natural scrub and access to the fitness area. The pampering draws to a close with a candle-lit dinner in the resort’s intimate restaurant, La Locanda del Borgo, in what used to be the cellars. The magnificent surroundings - interior room with fireplace and spacious terrace with patio and high beamed ceiling - provide an attractive display of ochre-coloured local stone, glass wood and iron. The overall effect is extremely striking, and somehow evokes large North American chalets. The food, by Luciano Villani, also makes a powerful impact. The dishes created by the chef from Pompei show a deep attachment to the land and its traditions, seasoned with a creative touch that that reinvents flavours while respecting their fundamental character. And we can offer one final tip to take advantage of before packing your bags in preparation for a visit to this enchanted corner of nature and wellbeing in their purest form - book the 50 square metre “regale” suite accessed via a stone bridge. This dream accommodation comprises a lounge, bedroom, bathroom and a hydromassage pool carved out of the rock, underneath a glass vault looking up into the starry night sky. www.aquapetra.com


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Luxury

rental

by Valeria Rastrelli

In a Lighthouse

on Sardinia… Livng in a lighthouse, even it’s just for a short break, is an unforgettable experience. Try the Faro di Capo Spartivento, 50km from Cagliari, the only such building in Italy to be restored and transformed into a guesthouse. It stands on the cape it is named after, in the Chia area, a wild region cloaked in Mediterranean maquis and surrounded by white sand. Perched high on a cliff above the seashore, it is reached along an unpaved road that is closed to the general public - only the first hint as to this destination’s exclusive nature, which is enhanced by the kind of luxury services offered by a five-star hotel. The chef and maitre d’hotel create for their guests a bespoke holiday that will help them feel relaxed and at home. The ground floor comprises a 120 square metre lounge with dining room and drawing rooms, two bathrooms, an office, professional kitchen with larder and bathrooms and changing rooms for the staff. A spiral staircase in stone leads to the first floor, with a tea room and six junior suites, some with sea view and others looking out onto the hills. On the second floor is a huge terrace with four canopy loungers for sunbathing or watching the stars. Above this on the third floor is the lantern room, which is closed to guests. Separate from the main building there are two two-floor mini-apartments with a groundfloor lounge and sleeping area on the first floor, featuring a glass skylight to provide a view of the sky. The exteriors are just as appealing, with a zero-edge pool and glazed gazebos for dining in the light of the rotating lighthouse lantern. www.farocapospartivento.com

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watches Solotempo

by Paolo De Vecchi

For purist admirers of attractive wristwatches, the most simple models are the quintessence of style

Essentiality is not an easy virtue to practise, and in the watchmaking world its finest expression is the so-called time only designs. No date window or sub-dials, the dial is exclusively and entirely occupied by hour and minute counters, and sometimes a seconds counter. This stylistic rigour offers plenty of room for design innovation by brands such as Richard Mille, which has launched a watch with quartz and carbon fibre case, a movement mounted on a single-body baseplate and titanium bridges. Bulgari, on the other hand, offers an extremely thin, all-black model with tourbillon. Rolex, Panerai and IWC reinterpret the classic, more rigorous military design.

Richard Mille RM 27-02

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Bulgari Octo Ultranero

Rolex Air King

IWC Big Pilot’s Heritage

Panerai Radiomir 1940

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watches complicated by Paolo De Vecchi

Patek Philippe Reference 5396/G

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Watches that display more than just hours and minutes are the pinnacle of precision mechanics

A.Lange&Söhne Richard Lange jumping seconds

They are described as “complicated”, and timepieces with more indicators than simpler watches require a much more

Hublot Big Bang Unico Retrograde

complex mechanism. In ascending order of sophistication, we start with chronographs like those by TAG Heuer and Hublot. As well as measuring hours and minutes, they have sub-dials that display 30 minutes and 12 hours of the chronograph countdown. A totally different, much more complex example is the mechanical complication required to display the date, as typified by Patek Philippe and Ulysse Nardin, while A.Lange&Söhne focuses on the jumping second function.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar

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BEING IN THE WORLD

The brandy family 36

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The Nonino family has transformed grappa, the once-humble distilled spirit made by northern Italian farmers, into Italy’s Armagnac, and now grappa is one of the world’s most prestigious spirits, displayed in the company of Bulgari jewels in Rome or in the windows of Harrods of London by Marina Tagliaferri

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BEING IN THE WORLD

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n 1 December 1973 Benito and Giannola Nonino revolutionised the way grappa is produced, distilling the marcs from the prized Picolit wines ( a rare vino da meditazione, a sweet dessert wine to be enjoyed slowly, the pinnacle of the winemakers’ art in Friuli) capturing all the variety’s unique fragrances and flavours. The Picolit was followed by Ribolla, Schioppettino and others. The Monovitigno Nonino was created and bottled in beautiful glass decanters, and was so successful that Italian and foreign distillers soon began to copy this production model. Antonella Nonino, daughter of Benito and Giannola, is now the company’s external relations and marketing manager. In her words, “We have been distilling spirits at Percoto, in Friuli, since 1897. Our grappa and acquavita products are made from fresh raw materials, distilled using entirely artisanal methods in our copper pot steam stills. They are then bottled after natural aging in 1,930 small barrels in a variety of woods. When the time comes to begin production we work day and night to extract as much freshness and flavour as possible from the marcs”. The Nonino distilleries are, quite simply, unique. They comprise five artisanal distilleries, each with twelve copper pot steam stills. This means the marcs can be distilled at the same time as the harvest is taking place, avoiding ensilage and demethylation. The result is a series of excellent products that have gained a stellar reputation. This success is closely linked to the Nonino family’s extraordinary personalities, marketing genius, cultural commitments and PR skills. At the head of this tightly-knit group stands the dynamic Giannola (“Our Lady of Grappa”, as her friend Gianni Brera described her) and Benito, who knows every secret of the art of distillation. Now the family business also includes the three daughters Antonella, Cristina and Elisabetta, and all take a hands-on role in the entire production process, from purchasing the ingredients to the various stages of distillation. Giannola sought to celebrate this in 1989 by asking Oliviero Toscani to take their photo portrait. They are all smiling, holding a bottle of grappa in an image that has now become an icon that represents and guarantees the quality of their product. The three sisters, all CEOs, have different, clearly-defined roles. In Antonella’s words, “Cristina supervises distillation, production and the Italian market, Elisabetta handles the international market, where we have a presence in sixty or so

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NONINO DISTILLERIES ARE, QUITE SIMPLY, UNIQUE. THEY COMPRISE FIVE ARTISANAL DISTILLERIES, EACH WITH TWELVE COPPER POT STEAM STILLS. THIS MEANS THE MARCS CAN BE DISTILLED AT THE SAME TIME AS THE HARVEST IS TAKING PLACE, AVOIDING ENSILAGE AND DEMETHYLATION

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BEING IN THE WORLD

NONINO HAS NOW EXTENDED ITS RANGE, OPENING OUT FROM THE WORLD OF SPIRITS (WHERE THE RISERVE VINTAGES TAKE PRIDE OF PLACE) TO INCLUDE PRODUCTS SUCH AS THE AMARO NONINO QUINTESSENZA, ALSO USED TO PREPARE AN EXCEPTIONAL APERITIF

countries, and I’m also responsible for the Premio Nonino Rist d’Aur, launched in 1975 to protect the ancient Friulian varieties, which were on the road to extinction. This was joined in 1977 by the Premio Nonino di Letteratura (Mario Soldati was president), which has had an international section since 1984.” Now one of the most prestigious international accolades, the Nonino award has anticipated the Nobel prize choice five times, recognising Nobel Peace prize winner Nobel Rigoberta Menchù, Literature Prize winners V.S. Naipaul, Tomas Tranströmer and Mo Yan, and Nobel Physic Prize winner Peter Higgs.

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Nonino has now extended its range, opening out from the world of spirits (where the Riserve vintages take pride of place) to include products such as the Amaro Nonino Quintessenza, also used to prepare an exceptional aperitif. “It’s possible to do some fantastic things in the mixed drinks sector, and we’re enjoying great success”, says Antonella. “Famous international mixologists have used our products to create some wonderful cocktails, which are becoming extremely popular. One example is the Nonino Tonic, only to be served with a slice of lemon!”


L E CHRONOPASSION

Hand-Painted by Alvaro Soler 88 Pieces WorldWide

edelberg.ch


LUXURY HOTEL

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by Valeria Ratrelli

A small estate on the island of Mazzorbo, Burano’s little sister and connected to it by a wooden footbridge, is home to an initiative that is closely linked to local traditions and bears the Bisol name

t all began with a vineyard. Of course, you’ll say, as we’re talking about the Bisol family, whose work embodies the excellence of Italian winemaking. But how has a vineyard managed to create not only a superb wine but also a luxury resort with Michelinstarred restaurant on the island of Mazzorbo and an “albergo diffuso” on Burano. It’s the brainchild of Gianluca Bisol, the spirit behind the Valdobbiadene-based company that has brought new life to Venissa, the island that wasn’t. It began in 2003 when Bisol, visiting nearby Torcello with a group of clients, discovered some old, sickly vines in a small garden behind the church. Intrigued, he decided to investigate further and found out about the story of the Dorona, a native variety that had been cultivated throughout the lagoon since 15th century, but was now grown only by a few local people. Bisol searched the entire lagoon area for the surviving plants and found a hundred or so,

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LUXURY HOTEL tended by the oldest island inhabitants. The wheels started turning and the ideal place to bring this treasure back to life proved to be on the island of Mazzorbo, the Scarpa Volo estate, with walled vineyards and centuries-old cellars. Years of passionate endeavour are embodied here in just under a hectare of land with a belltower standing in its midst - the vineyard where the Dorona grapes were planted. Now this the “clos� produces almost 4,000 bottles a year of Venissa, one of the most sought-after whites among connoisseurs throughout the world. This unique wine has briny notes that evoke the lagoon and its aromas. The bottle pays homage to Venice’s past, honouring three local traditions - wine, gold and glass. On the wave of this success Matteo Bisol, born into the business and gifted with gret intuition, created a wine resort called Venissa, and in a just few years it has grown to become a focus for lovers of fine food and wines. Seating twentyfour diners with a view of the vineyard, in 2015 it became a training ground for young chefs, the first restaurant in the world to gain a star

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GUESTS CAN ENJOY THE VENISSA EXPERIENCE TO THE FULL BY STAYING IN ONE OF THE WINE RESORT’S NINETEEN ROOMS WITHIN THE ESTATE, BOUNDED BY THE LAGOON AND VINEYARD, OR OVER FOOTBRIDGE ON BURANO, THE ISLAND OF FISHERMEN, LACE AND COLOURFUL HOUSES

with a team of four talented individuals - Sabina Joksimovic, Alba Rizzo, Michelangelo Doria and Serena Baiano. The walled vineyard forms a backdrop to the Michelin-starred restaurant, which serves traditional dishes given a modern interpretation, while the Osteria Contemporanea highlights recipes collected from Native Venice. The dishes are basically the same, using authentic ingredients like castraure (baby artichokes), moeche (lagoon crabs), canocie (mantis shrimp), canestrei (biscuits) and schie (shrimp). Guests can enjoy the Venissa experience to the full by staying in one of the Wine Resort’s nineteen rooms within the estate, bounded by the lagoon and vineyard, or over footbridge on Burano, the island of fishermen, lace and colourful houses. Here the accommodation is based on the “hotel diffuso” model, where guests live beside the locals - near the old fish market, in the main square or on the island’s lovely canals. Only twenty minutes from Venice, a different world, authentic and honest. venissa.it

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MALDIVES

Enchanted places far from the frenzied rhythms of everyday life. Here you can live the true Maldives experience, with smiles, hospitality and contact with nature

TWO INDIAN OCEAN DIAMONDS by Teresa Crespi

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iamonds Athuruga and Diamonds Thudufushi stand on the untouched atoll of Ari Nord, on twin islands that rise from the crystal waters of the Indian Ocean. White beaches of coral sand and lush tropical vegetation are protected by a barrier that shelters an almost infinite assortment of marine wildlife. Enchanted places far from the frenzied rhythms of everyday life. Magical destinations embraced by an atmosphere of welcome and relaxation, where courtesy, attentiveness and a cheerful friendliness make visitors feel unique and special. To make their Maldive dream come true, clients can choose a Beach Bungalow, surrounded by lush vegetation, or a more elegant Water Villa, suspended above a coral garden. Each solution offers its own special charm - the light-filled Beach Bungalows, which feature a functional style and careful attention to detail, are intended for guests seeking to enjoy a holiday in contact with the natural world, while the Water Villas, with their simple yet elegant “total white� look, will attract those who desire more exclusive accommodation offering total privacy.

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MALDIVES

Even more special alternatives are available, like the Jacuzzi Water Villas with their hydromassage pool, suspended above the ocean, and the Beach Junior Suites with living area and a larger terrace on the beach. The excellence of the all-inclusive offer includes the culinary skills of Executive Chef Giacomo Gaspari. He offers different, exciting dishes every day, a feast of innovation in the twofold creativity of ingredients and aesthetic appeal. The chef involves guests in a unique experience, weaving a spell that combines Mediterranean cuisine, Eastern techniques and food science. The result is a series of refined dishes whose origins range from Italy and Asia to the Maldives themselves. A jewel in the food and wine offer of the Maldive resorts and one of the most tempting attractions offered by Athuruga and Thudufushi. The OverWater Restaurants, linked to the islands by a long footbridge and immersed in a silence broken only by the sound of the wind and sea, are the perfect setting

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for a romantic dinner, preceded by an aperitif on the spacious, strategically west-facing terrace, looking out onto spectacular tropical sunset. The Teppanyaki Restaurant is a newly-opened attraction where the preparation of the meal forms part of an exciting gastronomic experience - the searing hot grill, the chef’s flamboyant gestures and the raw ingredients create a show that ends with the completion of traditional Japanese delicacies. The high point of the restaurant offer is the “Dining With the Stars” initiative, now approaching its third edition, bringing the star chefs of the Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe to the OverWater kitchens. Every week from November to March one of the talented young European chefs will create the menus that will pamper guests with signature dishes, as well as preparing an exclusive gourmet meal. True foodies will not be able to miss the chance to take part in the cookery classes, where the JRE chefs reveal recipes and secrets from their own kitchens.


THE DIAMONDS ATHURUGA AND DIAMONDS THUDUFUSHI BEACH & WATER VILLAS OFFER A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE, INSPIRED, LIKE A SYMPHONY, BY A PERFECT HARMONY OF ITS ELEMENTS, WHERE ITS BEAUTIFUL NATURAL SURROUNDINGS AND BUILDINGS CREATE A FAIRYTALE SCENE COMPLEMENTED BY PRESTIGIOUS ALLINCLUSIVE SERVICE

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MALDIVES

TO UNDERSTAND THE TRUE SPIRIT OF THE LOCATION, AT ATHURUGA IT’S POSSIBLE TO VISIT A PART OF THE ISLAND WHERE GUESTS USUALLY DO NOT ACCESS TO, ACCOMPANIED BY COMMENTARY FROM THOSE WHO KNOW THIS LOCATION IN EVERY DETAIL, TO DISCOVER THE BEHIND THE SCENES WORLD OF THE WONDERFUL MALDIVE HOLIDAY

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WELLNESS

WATERS OF WELL-BEING Two thermal spas, one in the north of Italy and the other in the country’s heart, offering the pleasure of being pampered, shedding a few surplus kilos and regenerating body and mind with the help of waters and mud from ancient history by Antonella Euli

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wo hot spas, one in the north of Italy and the other in the country’s heart, offering the pleasure of being pampered, shedding a few surplus kilos and regenerating body and mind with the help of waters and mud from ancient history. First we visit Tuscany, near Cinquale beach, ten minutes by bike from Forte dei Marmi and surrounded by the beauty of the Apuan region. Here, the lovely gardens of the hotel Villa Undulna host the Terme della Versilia. This is one of the few examples in Italy of seaside hot springs, where visitors can enjoy the therapeutic benefits of the water containing bromide and iodide salts and peat, precious compounds produced by the generosity of the natural landscape surrounding the baths. Three types of treatment are offered, beauty, wellbeing and thermal, supervised by a medical team, while a personalised cosmetic line forms the basis of bespoke treatments. The resort’s restyling is underpinned by a respect for the environment and sustainability, starting from the materials used to implement a policy of “clean technology”, like the delivery system for the thermal water, sanitised by high pressure, high temperature steam. The Undulna wellbeing area has also been renovated, and now boasts a sauna, Turkish bath, chromotherapy and aromatherapy, emotional shower, cascade and relaxation area with water-heated loungers. There are also changes in the spa area, which now has a cabin for peat baths, followed by a “reaction phase”, which involves relaxing on the bed while wrapped in a soft blanket. Well-being and fitness also play their role in the choice of food, and in the indoor restaurant the imagination and skill of the chef, Giuseppe Fulco, delights all lovers of good living and healthy eating as he prepares a variety of typical regional dishes, plus Italian and international delicacies that highlight products from the local region, between sea and mountains. www.termedellaversilia.com

THE LOVELY GARDENS OF THE HOTEL VILLA UNDULNA HOST THE TERME DELLA VERSILIA. THIS IS ONE OF THE FEW EXAMPLES IN ITALY OF SEASIDE HOT SPRINGS, WHERE VISITORS CAN ENJOY THE THERAPEUTIC BENEFITS OF THE WATER CONTAINING BROMIDE AND IODIDE SALTS AND PEAT, PRECIOUS COMPOUNDS PRODUCED BY THE GENEROSITY OF THE NATURAL LANDSCAPE SURROUNDING THE BATHS

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WELLNESS

A change of direction takes us to Abano Terme in the north, a place that has always been associated with well-being, as guests of the Ermitage Bel Air, a medical hotel that is unique in Italy, nestling among the gentle hills of the Terme Euganee, in the Veneto region, Europe’s largest thermal basin. The beauty of the location and extraordinary therapeutic properties of the hyperthermal waters that spring naturally from under the ground attract guests from around the world. The hotel is one the area’s most historically significant - the oldest section of the complex dates back to the late 19th century and can be seen in the lovely architecture of the restaurant. The future, though, under the management of four generations of the Maggia family, offers a new vision, embodied by a top-quality hotel that has combined a multi-disciplinary medical approach, with many Global Care programmes that enable a series of problems to be managed by

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one health representative alone, with thermal spa services to create a highly distinctive offer. The Ermitage has three private springs that form the focus for the activities of the thermal spa in the hotel, which guests in all the rooms can access in slippers and bathrobe. The real gem is the cures with mud containing a scientifically certified analgesic and antiinflammatory active ingredient that is protected by a European patent. There’s a tempting selection of therapeutic and wellbeing programmes including the Fit Week, where nutrition and fitness, the basic elements in regaining physical and mental form, play an important role. The chefs create personalised menus in collaboration with the medical nutritionist. For enduring therapeutic results, the programme combines exposure to the indirect effects of heat therapy, daily physical training and a special diet. www.ermitageterme.it


THE BEAUTY OF THE LOCATION AND EXTRAORDINARY THERAPEUTIC PROPERTIES OF THE HYPERTHERMAL WATERS THAT SPRING NATURALLY FROM UNDER THE GROUND ATTRACT GUESTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD. THE HOTEL IS ONE THE AREA’S MOST HISTORICALLY SIGNIFICANT - THE OLDEST SECTION OF THE COMPLEX DATES BACK TO THE LATE 19TH CENTURY AND CAN BE SEEN IN THE LOVELY ARCHITECTURE OF THE RESTAURANT

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style TRIBUTE TO

Over thirty years in the fashion world - a story of success, art, creativity, innovation and revolution by Antonella Euli

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Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana chose Naples as the venue for a “theatrical” party, setting the stage for guests and prestigious creations. Naples is a constant source of inspiration for these designers - maybe it’s the city’s authentic Mediterranean atmosphere, its manifold traditions or the hand-crafted nativity scenes it is famous for. D&G shot their latest women’s fashion ad in Naples and another for perfume on Capri. Naples, the home of sartorial tradition, gave them an enthusiastic welcome. The patron of the event was Sofia Loren, who represents the best of Naples throughout the world. She has also been a testimonial for Dolce & Gabbana’s makeup line for a year now. We’ll describe some aspects of the show - for that’s what it was - then look at a sartorial collection for men, which perhaps attracted less attention than its feminine counterpart. Just be patient, as they say in Naples, everything in its turn. The key moment was the runway show in via San Gregorio Armeno, the site of the nativity scenes market, with D&G’s lovely models parading past the stalls selling statues, with actors and actress looking on from the windows. Then the party spilled over into the entire city, drawing in museums, beaches, city centre streets and unexpected venues. A memorable occasion, in other words. To return to the sartorial element, the true spirit of Dolce&Gabbana’s men’s clothing, it could be said that their story is one of artisanal fabric production - pinstripes, Jacquards, mikado, and cotton are transformed into jackets, coats or a pair of trousers. The choice of sartorial details plays a crucial role in the garment’s construction - stitching, buttons, buttonholes and lapels are just a few of the elements that create a perfect balance between creativity and technical expertise. Embroidery is everywhere in the 2016-2017 men’s collection, with jackets, sweaters,

The choice of sartorial details plays a crucial role in the garment’s construction - stitching, buttons, buttonholes and lapels are just a few of the elements that create a perfect balance between creativity and technical expertise

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style Embroidery is everywhere in the 20162017 men’s collection, with jackets, sweaters, fleeces and polos embellished with roses, Baroque-inspired putti and sacred hearts, all symbols of a romantic Sicily and icons of the brand imagination

fleeces and polos embellished with roses, Baroqueinspired putti and sacred hearts, all symbols of a romantic Sicily and icons of the brand imagination. The traditional small-stitch technique that creates many of these elements highlights the collection’s dreamy, passionate character. The crown, an image of excellence, fame and power, a symbol evoking courage, enterprise and strength, is embroidered on a number of garments in the collection. Another important element is the coat - depending on its sartorial characteristics it immediately expresses its wearer’s style and personality. That’s why it appears in so many versions - outerwear, day or evening coat, knee or ankle length - fulfilling the requirements of a coat for every occasion. Finally, the Dolce & Gabbana Tuxedo transcends the familiar formal classic, as an excellent cut and skilful choice of fabrics is complemented by an extremely refined aesthetic and the brand’s hallmark touch of eccentricity. The traditional tux, a symbol of masculine elegance, is a distillation of glamour and pure style that enables its wearer to stand out from the crowd. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are a hard act to follow.

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style

Artisanality is the true spirit of Dolce&Gabbana’s men’s clothing, it could be said that their story is one of artisanal fabric production - pinstripes, Jacquards, mikado, and cotton are transformed into jackets, coats or a pair of trousers

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SKY SERVICES FLIGHT ACADEMY

CADET PROGRAM 2016

ato@skyservices.it - www.skyservices.it

MILAN BRESSO | CAPUA | NAPLES | BRINDISI


LEGENDARY YACHT

RIVA TROPHY 2016 by Maria Carolina Giupponi

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The Aquariva Special Sal VI won the 12th Riva Trophy 2016, hosted by Lia Riva and Monaco Boat Service, with the participation of the Yacht Club de Monaco. Twenty motorboats took part in the event between St Tropez and Monaco

A

real competition - all the exciting old-school appeal of the Mediterranean waves, fast racers and transcendent craftsmanship, driven by a passion for the Riva heritage. Throughout the event nautical contests fought out at every destination, celebrating records, winners and teams at each location along the way. The most eagerly-awaited sea race began on the morning of 8th of July with a line-up of classic and spectacular new Riva models, from the legendary Aquarama to the timeless style of the Aquariva Super and its limited edition Gucci,

RIVA SPE THE UNBE ATEN AQUA AND MR MS BY SALVI CAPTAINED PROCLAIMED S CORTEZ DE LOBAO WA TROPHY 2016, WINNER OF THE RIVA LIMITED EDITION TAKING HOME TWO BY LUXURY SWISS WATCHES PROVIDED URNE, OFFICIAL WATCHMAKER F.P JO AR’S EVENT PARTNER OF THIS YE

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LEGENDARY YACHT the aggressive yet elegant of the Rivale ‘52, the Bentley team’s Rivarama Super and the queens of the sea - Venere Super, Opera Super and Duchessa ‘92. Twenty crews battled it out in a tough but entertaining confrontation. The first stop was Cannes, where competing crews took part in the mooring contest, followed by a spectacular lunch, “Provençale” style at La Tonelle restaurant on Saint Honorat Island. Then came the knots contest, and finally everyone indulged in a swim and sunbathe. The photo competition was won by Rivarama “Veuve Clicquot Leon”. Next stop, St Tropez, the final destination for the day, where the Riva Trophy fleet was welcomed by a spectacular line up of Bentleys. This intense, highly successful day was celebrated with a magical, exotic beach party on a Hawaiian theme where Saint Tropez was transformed into a Hawaiian Island with dancers, fire performances and more. On Saturday the 9th of July contestants enjoyed a leisurely tour of the St Tropez “Marché Provençale”, followed by lunch at the new St. Tropez Boat Service Riva Exclusive Dealer office. The most unusual competition, a contest entitled “Flower Power in Past, Present, Future”, was held in the St. Tropez Port bay, with, of course, flowers as the central element. The winner was the Mercurius “Bibi”, which seemed to float in the midst of a flower garden. The day concluded with the awards ceremony at the YCM. After a wonderful dinner Lia Riva handed each participant a personalized photo of the event, then proceedings concluded by conferring the highly sought-after prizes, ranging from unique holiday breaks to ultimate “money can’t buy” experiences and limited edition Riva trophies. The unbeaten Aquariva Spe Salvi captained by Ms and Mr Cortez de Lobao was proclaimed winner of the Riva Trophy 2016, taking home two limited edition watches provided by luxury Swiss watchmaker F.P Journe, official partner of this year’s event.

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N - ALL THE A RE AL COMPETITIO OL APPE AL OF THE EXCITING OLD-SCHO D VES, FAST RACERS AN MEDITERRANE AN WA N AF TSMANSHIP, DRIVE TR ANSCENDENT CR E RIVA HERITAGE BY A PASSION FOR TH

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TRUFFLE PRECIOUS TREASURE

ALBA’S WHITE

GOLD

The autumn light paints Langhe, Roero and Monferrato with golden hues, signalling the return of the world’s most precious treasure - His Majesty the Truffle

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by Antonella Euli


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TRUFFLE PRECIOUS TREASURE

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his part of the Piedmont region is home to a wonderful trio comprising fine wines, time-honoured recipes and excellent truffles, a combination of such magical excellence that in 2014 it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status. A closer look at this truly blessed corner of Italy is provided by Tartuflanghe, a temple to the truffle in Piobesi d’Alba, Langhe, named in honour of the location and the prized fungus. Visitors enter almost on tiptoe, and the aroma soon sets heads swimming. Our guides are Paolo Montanaro, son of Beppe, who in his younger days was chef saucier on board cruise liners, and Domenica, whose whole childhood was influenced by the truffle. In the 1980s they both quit their role in the restaurant world to be become salespeople. Nowadays the commercial side is handled by Domenica’s daughter Stefania, who displays the same sharp intuition and discerning nose as her mother. Paolo the chemist, though, develops new ways of preserving and transforming truffles introducing their first dried truffle in 2010 - so they can be enjoyed out of season, too. Visitors to the production centre and showroom will not be able to resist amassing a selection of purchases from among the hundred or so truffle-based creations on offer, from pasta to sauces. Then there is the tasting room, and behind the sales counter offers, a vault guarding the white and black gold of Alba - truffles, sorted by size, brushed, weighed, authenticated with a quality seal and then sent all over the world. To promote the region and its truffles the Montanaro family has opened its premises to gastro-tourism, with multilingual guided visits to the truffle orchard, private tastings and personalised hospitality. The tour continues with the artisanal pasta factory that produces the typical tagliolini and tagliatelle all’uovo, with truffles in the kitchens where the risottos, sauces and condiments are made, then moves on to the workshop where the truffles are selected and washed. Next on the agenda is the chocolate studio, home of the sweet mini-chocolates, the Trifulòts, the famous pralines with made with PGI Piedmont Hazelnuts, followed by the tasting room where guests sample truffle-based creations and

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THIS PART OF THE PIEDMONT REGION IS HOME TO A WONDERFUL TRIO COMPRISING FINE WINES, TIME-HONOURED RECIPES AND EXCELLENT TRUFFLES, A COMBINATION OF SUCH MAGICAL EXCELLENCE THAT IN 2014 IT WAS AWARDED UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE STATUS

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TRUFFLE PRECIOUS TREASURE

TARTUFLANGHE IS A TEMPLE TO THE TRUFFLE IN PIOBESI D’ALBA, LANGHE, NAMED IN HONOUR OF THE LOCATION AND THE PRIZED FUNGUS. VISITORS ENTER ALMOST ON TIPTOE, AND THE AROMA SOON SETS HEADS SWIMMING

other local products in a professional open kitchen that can host up to fifty people. The high point of the programme is the visit to the family’s truffle orchard on a small hillside of the Roero, where ten years ago the company planted hazelnut trees, oak and hornbeam, all excellent hosts for black and white truffles. The trail winds along hillside paths to discover secret corners and reveal time-honoured tricks of the trade. On booking it’s possible to join the truffle hunter and his dog in search of the precious truffles, or take part in the Cook Your Meal initiative, following the instructions of the Tartuflanghe’s chef to prepare an authentic traditional Piedmontese speciality with your own hands and taste it in the nearby restaurant, along with many other truffle-based specialities. www.tartuflanghe.com 70

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ITALIAN WINE

THE REBIRTH OF ITALIAN WINE A wonderful period in the history of Italian agriculture inspired the most significant agrarian revolution in recent times, when in just a few years poor farmers were transformed into successful entrepreneurs

by Walter Filiputti

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hat would come to be called the rebirth of Italian wine took place throughout the country in the late 1960s-early 70s. At the same time yet following different schools of thought, Tuscany and Friuli presented the first important signs of renewal. In Tuscany Marchese Piero Antinori, scion of a winemaking family dating back to 1385, revolutionised the canons of Chianti Classico with Tignanello 1971, a wine that became a landmark among the great Italian reds. The family is also responsible for the success of another iconic wine, the Sassicaia di Bolgheri red by Piero’s uncle, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta. In Friuli an innkeeper from Udine, Mario Schiopetto, developed a new style of Italian white wine. He did so in Collio Goriziano region with his flagship product, Tocai Friulano. These wines enabled him to introduce terms


like elegance, harmony, fruit-laden, floral, softness and long finish, descriptions that could never have been used before. A new language was born and Italian wine had been changed for ever. These events marked the beginning of an increasingly successful introduction onto world markets. In 1978 Angelo Gaja produced the first examples of his Barbaresco. He became the iconic winemaker of the Italian rebirth, with wines that were perfectly capable of rivalling the great French products in prestige and price. In the Veneto region Sandro Boscaini della Masi restored the prestige and quality of one of Italy’s greatest wines, the Amarone, carving out a reputation for excellence throughouth the world. In Trento, the Lunelli family of the Ferrai winemakers was joined in 1968 by brothers Gino, Franco and Mauro, and by the year 2000 it was producing four million bottles of outstanding quality wines that were the equal

WHAT WOULD COME TO BE CALLED THE REBIRTH OF ITALIAN WINE TOOK PLACE THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY IN THE LATE 1960S-EARLY 70S. AT THE SAME TIME YET FOLLOWING DIFFERENT SCHOOLS OF THOUGHT, TUSCANY AND FRIULI PRESENTED THE FIRST IMPORTANT SIGNS OF RENEWAL

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ITALIAN WINE of even the most illustrious French Champagnes. Ampelio Bucci, a lecturer at the IULM in Milan, deserves great credit for restoring the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi to its former glory, producing it at his Marche-based Villa Bucci winery. In Sicily, at a time making wines for blending took priority, Count Giuseppe Tasca D’Almerita chose instead to emphasise quality and native varieties, a policy that resulted in the introduction of Rosso del Conte, with Nero d’Avola and Perricone. This quartet of winning moves shows how great men and great wines have created a success that has deservedly become a source of deep pride.

A WONDERFUL PERIOD IN THE HISTORY OF ITALIAN AGRICULTURE INSPIRED THE MOST SIGNIFICANT AGRARIAN REVOLUTION IN RECENT TIMES. WHEN IN JUST A FEW YEARS POOR FARMERS WERE TRANSFORMED INTO SUCCESSFUL ENTREPRENEURS

To know more... The contemporary history of Italian wine is presented in my book published in Italian and English by Skira. After graduating in economics with a visionary thesis entitled The Importance of the Sommelier in Shaping Consumers’ Taste in Wine, I became winemaker, wine manager, academic and author of a series of publications. My new work offers a surprisingly reader-friendly take on this complex story and the people who played a crucial role in its development. I describe, for example, how the wine growing and production sector has been able to create innovative models at every level of its supply chain, taking the momentous decision to stake its future on science and research and following this up with determination and commitment. The book also appeals to young readers, providing them with a starting point - Italian wine needs young people to promote and renew the dream. In the words of Angelo Gaja, the book “Is the most comprehensive work yet written on the contemporary history of Italian wine”.

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LIVELY YET LAID BACK, IMPRESSIVELY LAVISH, YET EFFORTLESSLY HIP

The Address

Overlooking

the sparkling Dubai Marina and situated in one of Dubai’s most popular lifestyle districts, The Address Dubai Marina offers 200 guest rooms, 442 residences, 5 restaurants and lounges, an impeccably relaxing spa with a modern and expansive fitness facility open 24-hours along with a stunning Infinity pool.

T +971 4 436 7777 DUBAIMARINA@THEADDRESS.COM WWW.THEADDRESS.COM

DUBAI MARINA


OBJECTS 1. CREATED BY THE CASTIGLIONI BROTHERS IN 1958 AND A FLOS ICON, THE TACCIA LAMP HAS NOW BEEN REINTERPRETED IN A SMALLER VERSION WITH NEW COLOURS 2. THE LIGHTHEARTED NEW BITOSSI HOME TABLEWARE COLLECTION IS DESIGNED BY FASHION ILLUSTRATOR NATALIA RESMINI 3. FROM THE ARMANI/CASA EXCLUSIVE

Fantasy Factor

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TEXTILES COLLECTION BY RUBELLI, THE 100% CASHMERE PLAID LUMEN, WITH POLAR BEARS

by Marta Bernasconi

A harmonious interior is created by the balance between neutral elements and striking furnishing items. Here is a selection of richly-coloured pieces and decor ideas that will give any interior uniqueness and sparkle

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4. AN ENCOUNTER OF DIFFERENT SHAPES, COLOURS AND MATERIALS. THE RESULT IS GENDER, THE NEW ARMCHAIR FROM CASSINA, CREATED BY PATRICIA URQUIOLA 5. THE IITTALA X ISSEY MIYAKE COLLECTION IN TEXTILES, CERAMICS AND GLASS. OBJECTS WITH A DELICATE ESSENCE EXPRESSED THROUGH SOFT COLOURS AND SHAPES

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OBJECTS 2

1 1. ORIGINAL DECORATION MADE FOR KIDS, HITS 4 KIDS BY EIJFFINGER IS A WASHABLE, PRE-PASTED WALLPAPER, DISTRIBUTED BY AGENA 2. THE FLAT SHOWERS FROM THE INFINITO LINE BY CIELO ARE EXTRA SLIM, ONLY 3 CM. AVAILABLE IN SIXTEEN COLOURS AND VARIOUS FORMATS 3. KEOPE’S CEMENTINE COLLECTION EXPLOITS THE PRACTICALITY OF STONEWARE TO REINTERPRET A CHARMING VINTAGE PATTERN 4. PIERO LISSONI HAS DESIGNED THE LARGO

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SOFA SYSTEM FOR KARTELL. ITS LINES ARE COMPLEMENTED BY GENEROUS CUSHIONS AND PATTERNED FABRICS.

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8 7. THE NOON WOOL CARPET BY ALESSANDRA BALDERESCHI FOR MOGG IS INSPIRED BY THE GRAPHIC MAGIC OF LIGHT ENTERING A ROOM 8. SEEING YOUR REFLECTION AND ENTERING A NEW DIMENSION MADE POSSIBLE BY THE NEW PERSPECTIVE MIRROR FROM DI BONALDO

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6 5. THE BEAUTY OF ANTIQUE TILES IS BROUGHT BACK TO LIFE BY THE BEIJA BRAND’S VINYL OBJECTS, LIKE THE CARPET. ON SALE AT MORONI GOMMA 6. COLOURFUL MAJOLICA PLATES ARE THE VIVID SUBJECTS OF “CASABLANCA” FROM THE WALLPEPPER® TREND-LINE CATALOGUE

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DESIGN HOTEL

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Nomen omen The name says it all. The Sereno, on Lake Como, has opened its doors. Its name sums up the essence of a dream destination by Marta Bernasconi

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O © Marco Craig

DESIGN HOTEL

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nly recently opened, but it’s already one of the top international tourist destinations for lovers of Lake Como. Fresh from the success of the Le Sereno St Barth’s, the company has launched this new, prestigious five-star initiative. The hotel, nestling among the lush vegetation of a sun-drenched promontory near the town of Como, embodies the concept of discreet, contemporary luxury. This is expressed throughout by solutions and facilities that create an exceptionally sumptuous welcome. Take, for example, the thirty large suites with terrace that are designed to make the most of the lake view and surrounding panorama. The small Riva fleet in its private moorings, available for guests, merits a special mention, as does the experience provided by the Berton al Lago restaurant. Like its Caribbean twin, the Sereno on Lake Como offers a service run with a simplicity that belies its great sophistication, and from the design viewpoint its interiors blend the evergreen elegance of traditional materials like wood, stone and natural fibres with the latest in contemporary design. This seamless continuity between the two designs is the work of Patricia Urquiola, who is responsible for both. The Spanish designer carried out most of her creative work in Italy, with a studio in Milan and collaborations with the major interior design brands. We asked her to talk about the new hotel, starting with the influence the natural setting and surrounding landscape had on her imagination. “It was very strong. To me it’s extremely important, in every architectural project, to create a continuity with the place it belongs to. In this case the Sereno reflects the area’s typical natural colours and materials, in total harmony with the context”. This is a luxury hotel, so it seemed only logical to ask the designer about her idea of hospitality and the indispensable facilities offered by a hotel at this level. “I’d say privacy, elegance, the quality of the service and spaces, and select


THE HOTEL, NESTLING AMONG THE LUSH VEGETATION OF A SUN-DRENCHED PROMONTORY NEAR THE TOWN OF COMO EMBODIES THE CONCEPT OF DISCREET, CONTEMPORARY LUXURY

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THE LUXURY IS EXPRESSED THROUGHOUT BY SOLUTIONS AND FACILITIES THAT CREATE AN EXCEPTIONALLY SUMPTUOUS WELCOME. TAKE, FOR EXAMPLE, THE THIRTY LARGE SUITES WITH TERRACE THAT ARE DESIGNED TO MAKE THE MOST OF THE LAKE VIEW AND SURROUNDING PANORAMA

materials and furnishings. With the hotels I design I try to create a connection between the space and the guests, a strong empathy that means they always feel at ease, even though they’re not in their own home”. Finally, Patricia Urquiola offers a series of adjectives to paint a portrait of the essential nature of the Sereno. “Timeless, sustainable, contemporary, elegant”. The recipe for a perfect welcome. www.ilsereno.com 84

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DESIGN HOTEL

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GOLF

The Green Wave

by Antonella Euli

A snapshot of the Golf Club Udine, among the lovely drumlin hills of Fagagna, surrounded by oak and beech woods set against the background of the Julian Alps. Fore!

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he Villaverde Hotel & ResortWellness Spa & Golf by architect Alessio Princic has much to offer guests, but its principal attraction is its breathtaking golf course. Laid out in front of the contemporary lines of the four-storey hotel, it forms part of a complex that combines art, design, sport and eco-sustainability, stretching out into an oasis of green. The same impact and the same view - like a green wave - can be enjoyed when facing the hotel, which blends perfectly into its setting. Standing in its verdant surroundings, this work of art is the brainchild of

Friulian entrepreneur Gabriele Lualdi. He conceived the structure as a model for total physical and mental well-being, and it comprises 33 rooms (including three suites), an 800 square-metre Wellness area, a medical centre, lounge bar and Privilegium restaurant. Linked to the complex and immersed in the resort’s natural scenery, the Golf Club Udine is accessed across the pedestrian bridge over the main road. The course, designed by architects Marco Croze and John Harris, cover over 85 hectares of entirely natural landscape, with 18 holes that follow the contours of the hills. Golfers are offered wonderful views and a carefullytended grass playing surface.

LINKED TO THE COMPLEX AND IMMERSED IN THE RESORT’S NATURAL SCENERY, THE GOLF CLUB UDINE IS ACCESSED ACROSS THE PEDESTRIAN BRIDGE OVER THE MAIN ROAD

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GOLF

THE ENGLISH-STYLE CLUB HOUSE HOSTS THE VILLAVERDE BAR&RESTAURANT, ALSO OPEN TO OUTSIDE GUESTS. IT IS MANAGED BY MASTER CHEF WANNY CARLETTI, WHO PREPARES MENUS WITH ZERO-KILOMETRE INGREDIENTS

The course’s technical complexity (par 72) over a length of 7,000 metres makes this a regional centre for golf tourism. The course was recently adapted to become a venue for international competitions. In fact, the Italian Senior Open is to be held here between 21 and 23 October. The contest is the only Italian leg of European Senior Tour for pros over the age of fifty. Three fitness trails of different lengths will be available to help competitors prepare for the event, while they can train in the gym using the Swing Workout programme - this helps coordinate all parts of the body, developing movement and correct posture. The English-style Club House hosts the Villaverde Bar&Restaurant, also open to outside guests. It is managed by Master Chef Wanny Carletti, who prepares menus with zero-kilometre ingredients. Golf club members can also enhance their wellbeing with the variety of sports activities on offer. There are three foot trails within the golf course - the 1.3 km Green trail, the 2.4 km Blue trail and the 4.9 km Red trail. The first two are paved and can be enjoyed in normal clothes, but the Red trail winds up and down through the woods, so walkers and runners would be advised to wear suitable kit. Cycling fans will have a choice of several trails and dirt tracks. The hotel offers a rental service for MTBs, road bikes and eBikes, as well as a cycling guide or a backup car. There are also secure parking spaces and workshops for cyclists. www.villaverderesort.com 88

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ICONIC HOTEL

Capri, island of the Gods Two ways of experiencing Capri, in a charming boutique hotel or a prestigious luxury establishment. The choice is yours! by Antonella Euli

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s soon as you settle down on board the hydrofoil powering across the bay, leaving Naples behind you, you can breathe the atmosphere of Capri, a heady mix of luxury, celebrity and the Dolce Vita. It’s now more than fifty years since the Piazzetta became a meeting point for the international jet set and prince Francesco Caravita di Sirignano, Pupetto to his friends, played host, but nothing has changed. The attraction remains, and if the stones could speak they would tell incredible stories of great loves, the follies of the stars and immense glamour. Capri forever! The first stop is the Villa Marina Capri Hotel&Spa, which offers a visiting card in the form of a shuttle service from Marina Grande on board nothing


THIS EARLY 20TH CENTURY PRIVATE VILLA IS NOW AN ADORABLE HOTEL THAT RETAINS THE ATMOSPHERE OF A SPACIOUS HOLIDAY HOME

less than one of their Ape Calessino motorised three-wheelers, an icon of Dolce Vita style. Once you’ve arrived it’s easy to understand why the word “comeback” just doesn’t cut it - what used to be an early 20thcentury private villa is now an adorable hotel that retains the atmosphere of a spacious holiday home. The welcome reflects the islanders’ warmth and elegance, with host Enrico Costa an embodiment of courtesy. His professionalism and hospitality soon make guests feel “home at last”. And when he invites you to spend an afternoon discovering the treasures of Capri on board the hotel’s traditional gozzo craft, you’ll realise what “tailor-made services” really means. The restoration of the villa took six years to complete and the result is clear - design and culture, present and past, surrounded by a Mediterranean garden hosting twenty-suites named after 20th-century figures who visited and loved Capri, a list that

includes Marinetti, Neruda, Axel Munthe, Charles Caryl Coleman and Gracie Fields. They are all different, with some facing the villa’s large gardens and others with a private pool and scenic terrace overlooking the sea, furnished with the period pieces and artworks that also grace the social spaces. Meals are taken at Ziqù, where the dishes prepared by chef Manuele Cattaruzza pay homage to the typical island cuisine and Mediterranean flavours. Diners are seated at eight tables in the garden facing the sea, emphasising the domestic atmosphere and the appeal of the dishes served there. The Stai spa, a focus of wellbeing, is a more like a comfortable lounge where guests can pamper themselves with emotional showers, sauna and Turkish bath, a small indoor swimming pool and a selection of exclusive treatments. Once there, you’ll never leave! www.villamarinacapri.com

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ICONIC HOTEL

Make a U-turn in the Calessino and a different kind of experience awaits, not far from the Piazzetta. The Capri Tiberio Palace is reached along the via delle Botteghe, and the hotel will have an intense emotional impact on anyone who passes its threshold. It’s as if you are in the home of a cultured, refined traveller who has filled suitcaes and trunks with the finest the world has to offer. The new owners have transformed the hotel and now it has international appeal with enchanting furnishings and objects. The hand of starchitect Giampiero Panepinto can be seen throughout, starting with the Jacky Bar, a cross between the Cotton Club and the magical 1950s Cuba, an atmosphere that can also be experienced in other interiors, including the rooms and suites. There are around fifty of these, all different, where multi-ethnic and natural colours and graphic motifs decorate the home of contemporary globetrotter, surrounded by modern and period souvenirs of his most recent voyage but now eager to set off once again. Francesca Tozzi, the hotel’s general manager, proudly shows us round the new Bellevue Suite, 250 square metres of

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design and unique pieces, with a terrace overlooking the sea with gym and swimming pool, a magical experience for a select few. There is no lack of luxury, but it exudes an atmosphere of understatement that will enchant cosmopolitan guests who like the good things in life. They will definitely feel at home here, in the indoor and outdoor pool on the terrace solarium with panoramic view, the Tiberio spa, 600 square metres of Zen atmosphere for deluxe well-being, and in the Terrazza Tiberio restaurant with view over Capri. The menus are marked by a strong local influence, emphsising freshness and seasonality. The restaurant also serves Kosher-Glatt dishes (meat only) certified by the Orthodox Union, combining the dietary rules of the Jewish religion with local ingredients and recipes. The Kosher menu is served in an area the restaurant reserves for lunch, dinner and Shabbat. The wine list also has a twofold character, offering the finest Italian labels and Kosher wines from Italy and Israel. All in all, more than full marks. www.capritiberiopalace.it


THE NEW OWNERS HAVE TRANSFORMED THE HOTEL AND NOW IT HAS INTERNATIONAL APPEAL WITH ENCHANTING FURNISHINGS AND IT’S AS IF YOU ARE IN THE HOME OF A CULTURED, REFINED TRAVELLER

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PUGLIA

AUTUMN IN

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PUGLIA

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PUGLIA

It may be Italy’s most popular summer destination, but we’d like to describe it in its most romantic guise, far from the noise and bustle of boisterous visitors - in autumn, when the olive trees wear a silver cloak

by Antonella Euli

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huge expanse of red soil hosts centuries-old olive trees, distorted forms that are the embodiment of history. Rows of fuchsia and scarlet coloured oleanders line streets and highways. Villages deep in the countryside seem frozen in time. White cities like Ostuni, overlooking the sea. Jewels of baroque architecture like Francavilla Fontana and the more famous Lecce, with delicately sculpted buildings in golden stone, especially at sunset. The Gargano, with its pearl, Vieste. Clusters of trulli, little pieces of Alberobello scattered across the entire region, cherished and restored, home to local people with a passion for preserving their traditions. Salento, now renamed Salentoshire, with its magnificent beaches stretching along the Ionian Sea coast, the changing light painting the sand gold or white. On the opposite coast, on the Adriatic Sea, the rocks become caves, bays, little clefts struck by breaking waves. Polignano a Mare, Otranto, Gallipoli, 96

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Punta dell’Orso, Punta Prosciutto, Leuca with its lighthouse, a beacon marking the extreme southern point of the “heel” of Italy. The manorial farms, many renovated and transformed into luxury resorts. Nature reigns supreme with breathtaking marvels like the Castellana Caves, a labyrinth of underground trails through ancient stalactites that over millions of years have taken on strange, spectacular shapes. Not forgetting the simple, authentic cooking with a flavour of unchanging tradition - homemade bread, tomatoes and olive oil. No need to be a gourmet to appreciate its depth and aromas! This is the Puglia we’d like to present, a magnetic summer destination with its lovely sea, a rival to any of the world’s exotic locations, and magical in autumn, when the landscape is washed with russet tones, the weather and thickly-perfumed air take on a more gentle character, the colours become softer and the air is fresh and bracing. Unforgettable.


OF TRULLI AND FARMS Have you ever slept and dined in an authentic late 18thcentury trullo? It’s not easy unless your family owns one. Take a plunge into the past - with entirely modern facilities - by enjoying a stay at Il Palmento, Locorotondo. This ancient village was built between 1780 and 1820 among olive groves and vineyards, and has now been converted into a 5-star resort comprising thirty-three trulli enclosed by a totally restored ring of dry walling and palisades. Magnificent and unique, brought back to life by a painstaking restoration, becoming an oasis of luxury in the Puglian countryside. The farmworkers’ dwellings are now twelve suites and twelve junior suites named after native grape varieties, another echo of the past, on the ancient wine trail. They are tastefully furnished, as is the restaurant with its typical barrel vaults in local limestone. Here visitors can experience the refined, honest local cuisine made using regional produce, accompanied by a wonderful selection of wines. In summer, life revolves around the swimming pool, but there are also year-round activities like courses in cookery, painting and pottery, wine tasting, yoga, road cycling, mountain biking, mountain biking - the list is almost endless. A magical place awaiting discovery. www.ilpalmento.com. For water of a deeper blue, though, visitors should travel a f ew more kilometres to the Grand Hotel Masseria Santa Lucia near Ostuni. The original structures have been preserved and enlarged, and the complex at the extreme end of the eastern Murge plateau, with the obligatory swimming

FIRST PAGE, CLOCKWISE, OTRANTO LIGHTHOUSE, A POSTCARD OF POLIGNAO A MARE, OSTUNI AT SUNSET AND MONOPOLI HARBOUR.ABOVE, THE GARDENS OF THE RELAIS IL PALMENTO WITH THE LOVELY TRULLI.ABOVE, RIGHT, LOCOROTONDO. RIGHT, THE WHITE ARCHITECTURE OF OSTUNI. OPPOSITE, THE COLOURS OF TORRI DELL’ORSO

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PUGLIA

pool, gardens, orange grove and restaurant serving local dishes, looks out onto the sea. The sound of the waves seems to penetrate every room, and the beach can be reached in the minivan or with a short walk through the gardens. Once they arrive at the shore guests can choose between the sandy beach or the pebble beach with lawn, both private and well-equipped. www.masseriasantalucia.it And finally we come to the Tenuta Monacelle, another village of trulli in the heart of the Valle d’Itria. At one time it was home to monks, but now it welcomes sophisticated travellers in search of peace and quiet. Thirty trulli, all together, embodying a thousand-year history

TENUTA MONACELLE IS A VILLAGE OF TRULLI IN THE HEART OF THE VALLE D’ITRIA. AT ONE TIME IT WAS HOME TO MONKS, BUT NOW IT WELCOMES SOPHISTICATED TRAVELLERS IN SEARCH OF PEACE AND QUIET. THIRTY TRULLI, ALL TOGETHER, EMBODYING A THOUSAND-YEAR HISTORY AS THEY STAND ONE BESIDE THE OTHER, CREATING A FAIRYTALE SCENE THAT IS PART OF THE CHATEAUX HOTELS ET COLLECTION NETWORK

as they stand one beside the other, creating a fairytale scene that is part of the Chateaux Hotels et Collection network. It is accessed along a winding road dominated by colours - the intense green of the ancient olive trees, the chalk white of the farmsteads scattered across the landscape and the deep blue of the Adriatic in the distance. Arriving visitors are greeted by a spectacular scene with dazzling trulli and rooms in a huge park surrounding the swimming pool. The Ciliegeto is also picturesque and evocative - this discreet, intimate restaurant occupies one of the estate’s trulli. www.tenutamonacelle.com 98

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TENUTA MORENO IS IN THE COUNTRYSIDE BUT ONLY A FEW KILOMETRES FROM THE SEA. EVERYTHING IS GREEN: THE EIGHTY-SIX ROOMS NESTLE AMONG FLOWER GARDENS AND OLIVE TREES, EXCELLENT GASTRONOMIC MATERIALS ARE PRODUCED HERE, WITH EXTRAFINE OLIVE OIL AND MAGNIFICENT WINES TEMPTING PALATES IN SEARCH OF HEALTHY EATING

BREAD, OLIVE OIL AND IMAGINATION The slogan could be “Where you eat well”, and at the Tenuta Moreno Masseria & SPA, Mesagne, an ancient 18th century farmstead surrounded by twelve hectares of olive groves, the cuisine, or rather good food, plays an important role. It’s true that we’re in a location that’s devoted to beauty, the magic of typically Mediterranean aromas and colours, that we’re in the countryside but only a few kilometres from the sea and that the eighty-six rooms nestle among flower gardens and olive trees, but it’s also true that excellent raw materials are produced here, with extrafine olive oil and magnificent wines tempting palates in search of good, healthy eating. Everything is green, including the cooking - chef Vincenzo Elia transforms the zero-kilometre products embodying the excellence of local production, like the fish supplied by the Cooperativa dei Pescatori of Torre Guaceto, recognised by the Slow Food association, into exciting combinations and creations. All in all, it’s a unique experience of tradition and originality. The dishes offered by the two restaurants, Aranceto and Sallentia, vary

according to the season and the products made available by local farmers. Guests have the opportunity to pick vegetables grown from ancient native seeds in the estate’s bio-dynamic gardens. Produce like the fiaschetto and regina tomatoes and the sweet Carovigno pepper, excellent with broad bean puree, which can be enjoyed after being transformed by chef’s skilful hands. The estate also boasts Puglia’s largest fig orchard, with seventy varieties from across the Mediterranean region, from France to North Africa. Local varieties also form part of the Slow Food Association’s production cycle of the fico mandorlato di S. Michele Salentino. The figs are dried in the sun and flavoured with lemon peel and wild fennel seeds. Finally, locallygrown almonds are added to create an exquisite combination. Best of all, the kitchen garden is also home to eight beehives producing excellent honey and a henhouse that has inspired a new initiative aiming to re-establish a special breed of hen, the famous “Leccese” chickens. Images of these birds, now under threat of extinction, often feature on traditional Puglian pottery. www.tenutamoreno.it

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SALENTOSHIRE A few years ago Chianti was the place to be, with buyers vying to purchase a country home in a quiet, picturesque location. Now though, Salentoshire is tempting those in search of a retreat surrounded by natural beauty, and the southernmost part of Puglia offers untouched landscapes, farm estates, turquoise seas and dry stone walls. Its privileged location makes it the ideal holiday destination - the Adriatic region, for example, offers Santa Cesarea Terme, Torre Dell’Orso, Alimini and its lakes, the magnificent Otranto and Castro, with its famous caves. The Ionian coast also provides breathtaking views, and here visitors head for Porto Cesareo, Pescoluse and Gallipoli. Art, fine Mediterranean food and genuine hospitality create a dream package where Mediaeval Europe takes on an Eastern hue - ancient songs in the Italian-Greek dialect called “griko” fill the air of Grecìa Salentina and ancient rhythms become contemporary music in the Notte della Taranta. Here you are in a green peninsula straddling two seas, a magical land where your path is marked by mysterious dolmens and menhirs hidden among the olive groves and dry stone walls in the countryside between Giurdignano and Minervino di Lecce. Here, ancient farmsteads have been transformed into stunning hotels and resorts. Ramblers can discover early Christian churches, underground olive presses and the natural spectacle of the sea caves at Castro and Santa Maria di Leuca. A stroll around Lecce is a journey through the baroque,

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among churches and dwellings carved out of the local limestone, courtyards, secret gardens and a wonderful Roman amphitheatre in the heart of the city. Brindisi offers visitors two castles and a view along the Regina Margherita esplanade. The villages host artisanal studios making papier-mache and stone objects, while the local restaurants prepare dishes with all the flavours of the Salento region,


accompanied by excellent native wines. Take, for example, “tria”, home-made pasta with chickpeas, tasty wild vegetables and sweet delicacies like the cream-filled “pasticciotto” and “spumone”, a delicious artisanal ice cream. In Salento you sleep in baroque palaces, in the silence of the countryside or close by the sea, in sober, welcoming residences - for round here simplicity is the key to all,

from the regional style to the food and the decor of the farmsteads and manor houses that have been renovated using local materials. This beautiful, authentic atmosphere is enhanced by the gentle rhythm of time in the inland villages, where the big-hearted people of Salento greet visitors with warm smiles and generosity.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT, GALLIPOLI, THE IONIAN JEWEL, A LOVELY VIEW OF OTRANTO AND SANTA MARIA DI LEUCA, THE EXTREME TIP OF SALENTO AND PUGLIA

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PUGLIA UNEXPECTED CAVES Caves may be found all over the world, but those at Castellana are truly monumental, and are deservedly regarded as Europe’s most important cave network. The exceptional extent of the system, the wealth of crystalline concretions and the spectacular size of the natural caverns make the Castellana caves an exceptional destination. Forty kilometres or so from Bari, they were formed by the action of an ancient underground river that over many centuries has eroded and shaped the limestone rock that forms the heart of the Murgia plateau. They were discovered by potholer Franco Anelli in 1938, and we can only imagine his amazement at being confronted by such magnificent sights. The caves are open all year round in the company of a guide who accompanies visitors along a 3km route around seventy metres underground. It’s a jawdropping scene of caverns with fantastical names, clefts, deep abysses, fossils, stalactites, stalagmites and weirdly shaped and coloured concretions. There are two possible routes - one lasts fifty minutes, while the other covers three kilometres in almost two hours. The temperature in the caves remains constant throughout the year at around 18 °C, with humidity levels above 90%. La Grave, the first and largest cavern in the

system is the only space that has a natural connection to the outside. It is 100 metres long, 50 metres wide and 60 metres deep. The section with the grottoes is accessible to the public, and contains formations of many shapes and sizes, with colossal stalactites, stalagmites, curtains and columns, while precious crystals sparkle in the darkness. The formations have intriguing names inspired by the imagination of the first explorers - the She-wolf, the Monuments, the Vixen, the Madonnina, the Altar, the Precipice, the Desert Gallery, the Upside-down Column, the Red gallery and the Dome Cavern. The richness and dazzling whiteness of its alabaster has given the final and most beautiful cavern, la Grotta Bianca, a reputation as the most magnificent of its kind in the world.

CASTELLANA ARE TRULY MONUMENTAL, AND ARE DESERVEDLY REGARDED AS EUROPE’S MOST IMPORTANT CAVE NETWORK

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THE CHARM OF THE BAROQUE In order to understand the baroque, simply talk a walk around Salento. The word is of Spanish origin, and is used to describe the artistic style that dominated 17th century Europe when the ideal, classic dimensions of the Renaissance gave way to the discovery of a wondrous, spectacular nature. The Baroque current in Salento was much more than an artistic movement - it provided the impetus for the reconstruction - in an exciting, innovative style - of a series of monuments, churches and residences whose beauty has remained timeless. Influenced by the stylistic trends originating in Lecce, churches and residences in all the urban centres in the heel of Italy were embellished with exuberant, capricious and charming decoration. Not only were these motifs aesthetically appealing, they often also made clear iconographic references. In this way a group of architects, sculptors, painters and artisans, almost all natives of the region and active in Salento, reinvented the opulence of Spanish baroque on a local scale. In the same way it is in the 17th and 18th centuries that the most beautiful piazzas in Salento took shape, like Piazza Salandra in Nardò and Lecce’s Piazza Duomo, in a much more harmonious, spacious setting than had been the practice in previous centuries. Lecce is a wonderful city where palaces, villas, monasteries and opulent homes make a fine show, displaying their baroque artistic splendour. If you don’t have enough time to explore the city in detail, go straight to piazza Duomo, the city’s baroque triumph, surrounded by the Duomo, Seminario (seminary) and Vescovado (bishop’s palace). During the day the dominant colour in the square is the typical yellow of Lecce limestone, but in the evening skilfully installed lighting washes the stone in magical hues, creating a romantic, surreal atmosphere. Carry on walking through the narrow alleyways of the historic centre, built on a Mediaeval street plan, and you will discover the lovely church of Santa Croce, flanked by the former Convento dei

Celestini. The church boasts a majestic rose window surrounded by an incredible outpouring of artistic imagination, where a series of fantastical animals and exotic slaves support a pierced balcony of columns and statues. The huge eye is ringed by carved flowers and fruit, and a trio of putti hold up crowns and mitres under the gaze of the sculpted saints. The two monumental complexes are the focus of a rich assortment of churches and palaces that provide a constant series of visual surprises for any visitor exploring the historical centre’s streets and alleyways, with restored monasteries that are now cultural centres, the constant movement of the corbels supporting the balconies and the sinuous wrought iron that runs along them.

LECCE IS A WONDERFUL CITY WHERE PALACES, VILLAS, MONASTERIES AND OPULENT HOMES MAKE A FINE SHOW, DISPLAYING THEIR BAROQUE ARTISTIC SPLENDOUR

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EXPLORING THE TREMITI

On a board a robust, well-built 45-foot catamaran with the amusing name “Mago Merlino”, we left Split, in Croatia, and set course for the Tremiti Islands and the coast of Puglia

by Andrea Pezzini

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e’re in the company of friends and we’re anticipating a lovely holiday on the sea. Our skipper Giuliano, an old acquaintance, is extremely skilful, and his wife Silvia is an incomparable cook. I’m sure we’re going to be spoilt. We left Croatia at dawn, dropped our trolling lines into the water and headed for the Caprara island, 95 miles ahead. We passed the islands of Solta and Brac, and then Vis, finally reaching open waters and a nice fresh breeze that allowed us to sail without the engine, accompanied only by the sound of the and the wind in the sail. We passed Pianosa, the first island in the Tremiti group, about 20 miles from Caprara (or Capraia on some maps),


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CRUISE

totally wild, and uninhabited but providing a safe mooring for the night after being at sea for sixteen hours without catching even a small tuna we reached Caprara and dropped anchor for the night in a sheltered bay past Punta Secca, near Cala dei Pesci. The next morning we donned fins, mask and snorkel to indulge in our favourite pastime. Our little tender came to collect us for lunch on board. The afternoon’s activity was an excursion north of Punta Secca to visit some magnificent caves, like the Turquoise, the grotto of love with its intense colours, and the Grotto of Mysteries where visitors can hear natural sounds with a magical note. After experiencing this uninhabited island’s natural attractions we decided to head for the island of San Nicola, the site of some unmissable monuments and archaeological remains, like the monastery of Santa Maria with its magnificent wooden Greco-Byzantine cross and other Byzantine-style wooden statues, and the tower of the Knight of the Crucifix. We enjoyed some lovely fish in a typical restaurant and in the late afternoon

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returned to the catamaran on the tender to spend the evening chatting about everything we’d seen. The next day found us off the Cretaccio, a cross between an island and large rock, and we had breakfast enjoying a fantastic view of the two larger islands, San Nicola and San Domino. Legend has it that Cretaccio is inhabited by a ghost, as is the nearby black rock called “la Vecchia”. People say that this is where a ghostly witch appears, spinning yarn. The day passed quickly with swimming and trips on the tender, and in the evening, after returning on board, we decided to go to Pianosa, the outermost and least sheltered island, so that we could swim somewhere away from the “bustle” of the inhabited islands. The weather didn’t look fantastic, so we didn’t risk remaining out in the open. This almost flat island didn’t offer a safe harbour. However, two cables to the shore and and the anchor set on a rather demanding seabed provided a measure of security for the night. The diving around Pianosa equals that of many more celebrated Mediterranean islands, and


CROSSING THE IONIAN IN SUMMER IS ENJOYABLE IF YOU KEEP AN EYE ON THE WEATHER FORECASTS. IT’S A BEAUTIFUL SEA, BUT IN THE PAST IT HAS SPRUNG A FEW NASTY SURPRISES ON UNWARY SAILORS

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CRUISE

we splashed about in a watery paradise. We had lunch on board then took to sea in the canoes, having a wonderful time. Our voyage to the Tremiti drew to a close with a visit to San Domino, the most commercialised island in the archipelago with its hotels and tourist facilities - but for visitors on the seaward side like us, the caves on the coast are more important. The Cave of Swallows and the Cave of the Monk Seal are extraordinary examples and provide unrivalled sights. The natural land and seascapes are perfect. But our holiday was almost over and the Floating Life Agency, which had organised the voyage, provided a helicopter transfer to Foggia. Then with a heavy heart we returned home. Until next time!

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THE NIGH SKY WAS FULL OF MORE STARS THAN WE’D EVER SEEN BEFORE. WE HAD A COMPETITION TO SEE WHO COULD COUNT THE MOST SHOOTING STARS, LYING ON THE NETS STRETCHED BETWEEN THE BOWS OF THE TWO HULLS


WHEN AN IDEA BECOMES REALITY AND INTUITION TURNS INTO EMOTION AN INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE DEDICATED TO YACHT, DESIGN AND LIFESTYLE

The Art of Sailing

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ITALIAN CHEF

The Flavours of Time

A retreat for the rediscovery of bodily and spiritual harmony, experiencing the aromas and flavours of times past by Antonella Euli

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T

he tempting smell of good cooking drifts through the cloisters of the former Franciscan monastery - now a hotel de charme - immersed in the tranquil surroundings of Monte Orfano. At the Cappuccini Resort of Cologne in Franciacorta, one day isn’t enough to appreciate this atmosphere to the full. A tradition of hospitality pervades this former Capuchin hostel, which has an essential but never austere beauty. The monks’ cells have been transformed into fourteen evocatively-named hotel rooms, each with its own distinctive character and furnishings. The spa in the old monastery gatehouse at the foot of the mountain is equally atmospheric. This intimate, refined space is in harmony with the complex as a whole, and at its heart lies the calidarium, carved out of the living rock of the mountain and offering a series of hydrotherapy treatments with hydrojet massage and fountains in the pool, whose irregular shapes follow the contours of the hill. Meals are a ritual celebrated every day, paying homage to the good things from the soil. Guests can enjoy the Osteria La Conventina, intended for informal lunches, and the elegant Cucina San Francesco restaurant, looking out onto the cloisters and furnished with precious pieces, damasks and ancient lamps. This is the realm of Piercarlo Zanotti, a highly-experienced chef who already has a prestigious Michelin star to his name and has now set himself a new challenge with this restaurant. His reinterpretations of the great classic dishes of the

THIS IS THE REALM OF PIERCARLO ZANOTTI, A HIGHLYEXPERIENCED CHEF WHO ALREADY HAS A PRESTIGIOUS MICHELIN STAR IN HIS PORTFOLIO AND HAS NOW SET HIMSELF A NEW CHALLENGE WITH THIS RESTAURANT. HIS REINTERPRETATIONS OF THE GREAT CLASSIC DISHES OF THE REGION SHOW A SKILFUL, CREATIVE HAND, CAPABLE OF ENHANCING THE RAW MATERIALS WITHOUT MASKING THEIR ESSENCE

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ITALIAN CHEF

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AT THE CAPPUCCINI RESORT OF COLOGNE IN FRANCIACORTA, EVERYTHING HARKS BACK TO TIMES PAST, WITH HOST ROSALBA TONELLI AND HER SON MARCO TAKING CARE OF EVERY DETAIL. THE HOTEL IS IMBUED WITH OLDSCHOOL CHARM, AND THE FRAGRANCE OF ROSES AND HERBS FILL THE AIR

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ITALIAN CHEF

region show a skilful, creative hand, capable of enhancing the raw materials without masking their essence. He works with herbs from the kitchen garden, uses the finest fruit from the estate’s orchards, reinvents recipes dating back to ancient times, combines quality and research with a healthy respect for tradition and handles his ingredients and preparation with a fine judgement. The results provide a wonderful surprise. The dishes have a flavour of times past, interpreted with a new lightness that leaves their original appeal untouched, giving them an intensely contemporary character. The wine cellar is realm of Marco and is in the former monastery well, home to a collection of prestigious Italian and international labels. The wines of Franciacorta take pride of place, followed by a selection of fine French Champagnes and high-calibre wines from across the world. We recommend you take your time and treat yourself to a few days at least in this magical place where time stands still. For a number of reasons - its unique atmosphere, excellent, authentic food and peerless wine collection. www.cappuccini.it

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A TRADITION OF HOSPITALITY PERVADES THIS FORMER CAPUCHIN HOSTEL, WHICH HAS AN ESSENTIAL BUT NEVER AUSTERE BEAUTY. THE MONKS’ CELLS HAVE BEEN TRANSFORMED INTO FOURTEEN EVOCATIVELY-NAMED HOTEL ROOMS, EACH WITH ITS OWN DISTINCTIVE CHARACTER AND FURNISHINGS

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THINGS TO SEE IN ITALY The world, and especially Italy, is full of beautiful things. Fortified villages and cities of art, natural wonders and monuments rich in history and treasures. An infinite source of beauty, Italy’s heritage is immense, a resource to be safeguarded and enjoyed with respect by Teresa Crespi

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PIENZA: A POPE, GREAT ART AND PECORINO CHEESE Pienza is a small town in southern Tuscany, perched on the summit of a hill overlooking the Val d’Orcia. It is known as the “ideal” Renaissance city, created by the great humanist Enea Silvio Piccolomini, who later became Pope Pious II. He built a harmonious complex of buildings - the Cathedral, the papal residence or Palazzo Piccolomini, the Town Hall and the enchanting central piazza. But Pienza is also the city of cheese! The pecorino of Pienza - a famous, truly delicious cheese made from sheep’s milk - is full of flavour, and can be enjoyed at various stages of maturity. The town is full of small, charming shops selling many varieties of pecorino that can enjoyed alongside other local products like the wonderful wine, spices and honey.

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BEST OF ITALY

THE TURKISH STEPS, AGRIGENTO In the Agrigento region, between Realmonte and Porto Empedocle, lies one of Sicily’s treasures, attracting the second largest number of visitors after the Valley of Temples. This living cliff is a spur of white marl jutting into the sea, its stepped, sloping sides creating an intriguing spectacle enhanced by the strong contrasts between the blue sea and sky set against the dazzling white rock. This monumental outcrop has taken on the shape of a set of stairs, and legend has it that during the Moorish invasions that occurred in the 16th century, the “Turks”, as they were mistakenly called, stormed what is now Realmonte by clambering up these natural cliff steps.

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URBINO CRADLE OF THE RENAISSANCE AND UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE Nestling in the hills of the Marche region, Urbino is rich in history and art. Surrounded by a long wall and boasting beautiful sandstone buildings, the work of important artists meant that this simple town grew to be a cradle of the Renaissance, and now visitors strolling through its historic centre are surrounded by an atmosphere redolent of 15th century Italy. The city has been a destination for the most illustrious renaissance academics and artists, who transformed it into a remarkable urban complex. The steep, narrow streets are lined with important buildings - the former monastery of Santa Chiara, the church of San Domenico, the Mausoleum of the Dukes in the church of San Bernardino, the Palazzo Boghi and the masterly Palazzo Ducale with its famous Torricini facade, guardian of Urbino’s treasures. Artistically and scenically beautiful, Urbino offers an evocative townscape of rooftops and churches.

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BEST OF ITALY

THE VENARIA REALE, A SMALL ITALIAN VERSAILLES The Reggia di Venaria Reale forms part of the residences of the House of Savoy, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its huge, lovely gardens and park were restored to the original splendour after a massive restoration project. Visits begin in the basement, then continue to the Sala di Diana with views onto the Corte d’onore (main courtyard), the gardens and the royal apartments of the Madama Reale and the princess Ludovica. Visitors then go through the procession rooms of the Palazzo del Re with their extraordinary perspectives, an architectural play that is repeated in Juvarra’s masterpiece, the Chapel of Sant’Uberto. The final wonder is the Galleria Grande, a magnificent display of frescoes, stucco and tapestries, leading out onto the French-style gardens, with the Alps forming a curved backdrop. 120

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MATERA THE CITY OF SASSI The city of Sassi, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, is to be European Capital of Culture in 2019. Matera lies at the heart of a rocky landscape, and retains a significant heritage of culture and tradition. It is also a venue for highly prestigious nationally and internationally significant exhibitions. Its architectural structure comprises two complexes. The first is immediately visible, with successive layers of dwellings, courtyards, galleries, large houses, churches and gardens, while the interior complex, not obvious at first, comprises cisterns, ice houses, large culverts and water management systems, an essential part of the city’s life. The original urban nucleus developed from natural caves in the rocks. These were later carved out into increasingly complex structures inside two great natural amphitheatres called Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano.

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n° 16 FALL 2016

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Wonder World Seasonal #16  

Wonder World Seasonal Fall 2016.

Wonder World Seasonal #16  

Wonder World Seasonal Fall 2016.