PINEHAVEN STUDIO’S Assembly Instructions FOR WILLIS
PINEHAVEN STUDIOS For Willis
Ground levelling tools, step ladder, tape measure, spirit level, pozi-driver, electric drill, hammer and pop riveter (Saw or circular saw if an ultralock floor was purchased).
See seperate check list and floor plan provided.
Your ground surface should be compacted to a â€˜firmâ€™ level surface. Ensure that no water will pond on the site. Your studio kit can be assembled on a reinforced concrete pad or a treated timber floor kit. If you are installing your studio on a concrete pad, refer to page 10 for the alternative flooring instructions. Piles are not supplied (as standard) but may be requested for a non level site.
ULTRALOCK FLOOR KIT ULTRALOCK
75x50mm boundary joists
75x50mm joists 100x100 bearers
ULTRALOCK TIMBER FLOOR:
end joist damp coarse
100x100 bearer Fig. 3
Note: All bearers have been cut to length. Lay the 4x 100x100mm bearers parallel at equal spacings. ([A] Fig. 2) Run a strip of damp coarse down the length of the pair of 1880mm 75x50mm boundary joists ([B] Fig. 2). Lay them parallel on top of the outer edge of the 100x100mm bearers. Make sure the damp coarse is between the joist and bearer. Ensure the outer edge of the boundary joists are flush with the bearer before nailing off with 90mm jolt nails. (See Fig. 3). Place the remaining 3490mm 75x50mm joists ([C] Fig. 2). perpendicular and on top of the 100x100mm bearers. Fit a piece of damp coarse at every point of intersection where the 75x50mm joist and the 100x100mm bearers cross. (See Fig. 2 + 3). Fix the joists on the outer edge in the corners with 90mm jolt nails. You should now have a fixed square frame with the remaining fours joists loose. “Square” the floor by measuring diagonally from corner to corner (both directions), adjusting until both measurements are equal. (See Fig. 2). Once square, nail off the remaining joists at every cross point with the 90mm jolt nails. At all times through this process the shed levels should be checked. Use packers or “infill” material to ensure the floor remains level. Lay the underfloor aluminium insulation on top of the 75x50mm joists making sure there is ample overlap between the sheets of insulation. (See Fig 4). Place the Ultralock flooring as per the technical floor plan. Ensure it is flush and square on each corner and the 3600mm edge. Use “nail bond” between the two sheets. Nail to the joists with 65mm flooring nails. Trim 10mm off the length of the ULTRALOCK flooring. Seal the edges with aluminium foil tape. (See Fig. 5). This tape should be placed around the outer edge of the ULTRALOCK flooring.
WALL PANELS The studio kit will comprise a combination of three types of panels. These are “left bead”, “right bead” and “no bead.” Note the detail of wall plan layout is shown in the schematic floor plan.
Note: When two panels are screwed together (except at a 90° angle) there should always be a ‘bead’ where the panels butt together. (Fig. 6). Note also that the front and rear walls panels sit outside the gable end wall panels. Refer to schematic floor plan. Stand the wall panels in the correct sequence as shown schematically on the Pinehaven checklist.
CLEARANCE HOLES Use a 4mm bit to drill four equally spaced clearance holes through one side of the panel stud. (Fig. 7). Fig.8
Drill two clearance holes through the bottom of the wall panel in preparation to fix to the floor.
Angle for top clearance holes.
Drill two clearance holes on an angle through the top of the wall panel in preparation to fix to the roof assembly. Pre-position 75mm screws into each of the clearance holes.
FIXING THE PANELS
It is generally best to start with an end and side panel enabling the panels to easily stand upright. Run a bead of sealant down the edge of the wall panels. Align with the adjacent panel and holding firmly, screw the two panels together using four 75mm screws. (A â€˜G-clampâ€™ will assist but is not critical). Repeat this process for the remaining wall panels, making sure the panels remain flush. Work toward the door the opening as ranch slider is the last wall component to be fitted.
FIXING TO TIMBER FLOOR
When all panels have been screwed together, centralise the wall assembly on the floor. Before fixing into position with the 75mm screws (two per panel) run a bead of sealant around the perimeter of the shed floor. Fig. 10 The studio kit has four corner boards. The bandsawn face faces to the outside. Run two beads of adhesive sealant down the edge of the four exposed corners of the shed and fix the four corner boards using the 60mm nails provided. (See Fig 10). Ensure each corner board fits flush to the side & top edge of the wall panels.
RANCH SLIDER Over the opening for the ranch slider, position screw the 70x47mm lintel in place with 2x 75mm screen at each end. (See Fig 10).
Note: Check that the space is 1800mm wide for the ranch slider.
Position one â€œside top plateâ€? Fig. 11 on top of the wall panel assembly. (See Fig 11). Note: the gable ends and trusses will fit inside the top plates so test fit a truss to ensure a tight fit before fixing the top plate into position. Note: The top plates will extend beyond the studio wall by an equal distance of approximately 200mm at each end. Screw the second top plate into position allowing for an identical alignment and overhang with the first top plate.
Lift the ranch slider into position. Drill five 4mm holes on all four sides of the window reveal (the wooden frame) and secure to the wall, floor and beam with the 60mm screws.
GABLE END TRUSS
Cross Section of end Wall
Run a bead of sealant along the bottom edge of each gable end truss and position on top of the wall assemblies. The truss should butt to the corner boards. Fix into position using two 75mm screws for each wall panel. (See Fig 13).
Truss with Cladding on
Place the centre trusses between the side top plates and at an equal distance. These will sit to the side of the join in the “wall panel assembly.” (See Fig. 14 + 15). Fix through the top plate using one 75mm screw on each end of the truss.
ROOF PURLINS + SPACER BLOCKS
There are four purlins and 8x spacer blocks in the studio kit which sit on top of the gabel end trusses and run parallel to the side top plates. Position the first purlin at the peak of the shed. (See Fig 16). Fix with the 60mm nails provided. Use the 75mm x 25mm spacer blocks to align the second purlin midway between the first purlin at the peak and the top plate. Fix the spacer blocks to each end truss using 2x 60mm nails. Mirror this on the opposite site of the shed with the third and fourth purlins. Note: Ensure the purlins maintain an even line at the ends as the fascia boards will be to fixed to them.
ROOF FASCIA BOARDS
Match the four fascia boards Fig. 16 into two pairs (bandsawn face out) and fix into position with the 50mm nails provided. (See Fig 16) fascia boards should sit approximately 10mm above the purlins.
BUILDING PAPER Starting from the top plate, roll the building paper over the roof, stapling at each purlin. Overlap each sheet by 10cm. Use a knife to trim the edges when the roofing sheets are on.
ROOF ASSEMBLY ROOFING SHEETS
Place the first roofing sheet against the fascia board noting the rib pattern. (See Fig 18) Ensure that all sheets are “square” to the fascia and purlins.
This end to fascia at both sides of roof
Using the 25mm “flat head” galvanised nails Fig. 18 (clouts) provided, fix the roofing sheet to the top edge of the top purlin. Note: these clouts are fixed through each “pan” of the roof sheet. (See Fig 19). Do not use roof nails on this top edge. Repeat this process for one side, then fasten down with the roof nails. Fig. 19
Roof Nails every 2nd rib
Fix a line of roof nails on the bottom edge through every rib and into the top plate. This is approximately 130mm from bottom edge of sheet. Hint: It can be very useful to use a string line along this edge to maintain a straight line of nails. Fix a second row of roof nails into the centre purlin (Fig. 19). Nail every 2nd rib starting on the outer edge. Repeat this process for the other side.
SOFT EDGE TOP ROOF FLASHING
Remove the protective film from the “V’ shaped flashings and place the sections into position. There are two sections which will be overlapped and will butt to the fascia boards. Drill 3.3mm clearance holes through the flashing into every second roof sheet “top rib”. Fix into position using the rivets provided. Note it is best to drill and fix one rivet at a time. Remove the swarf (steel filings) as you go. Press the soft edge down to follow the profile of the roof sheets.
Remove the protective film from the “U” shaped gutter sections. The wider edge is fixed to the top edge of the roof enabling the narrower edge” to under hang the roof sheet. Fix into position by drilling 3.3mm clearance holes through every second roof rib and fixing with rivets provided. The roof assembly is now complete. Brush or wash the roof to ensure no swarf (steel filings) remain from drilling holes for the flashings.
WE RECOMMEND YOU STAIN OR PAINT YOUR PINEHAVEN STUDIO To prepare your studio for painting/staining, stop all holes with a putty or filler. When staining, we prefer “Red Devil - Onetime - Spackling Filler” as this absorbs the stain better than some products. We recommend an oil or water based stain or a water based paint. Preferably paint or stain your studio in light colours for protection and in order to deflect heat from the studio, The life of your shed will be extended by re-applying stain or paint as required from time to time and occasional washing of the roof and cleaning the gutters of any debris.
CONCRETE PAD: optional Construction formwork to allow a base size which should be 5mm less than the floor dimension on each side. The floor dimension is outlined in the “Pinehaven schematic floor plan”. This will ensure that the shed will “overhang” the pad by approximately 5mm around the shed perimeter. The pad should be at least 75mm deep and reinforced with steel mesh. See technical drawing for more specification details. Note: Do not fix the shed to the pad until the concrete has cured for at least six days.
www.pinehavensheds.co.nz email: email@example.com 1 The Esplanade, Petone, Lower Hutt
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Published on May 10, 2013